(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best hvac products

I own both a gen 4 and a gen 5 FSL hobby laser, and I really like them both. There's a decent community forum here:

http://fslusers.freeforums.org/

You'll get some good answers there.

For 1), I don't know; I don't have their exhaust fan. They didn't have it available when I bought mine, but it looks decent enough. Without seeing it in person I can't comment on if it's worth $200 or not, but I use this one on one of my lasers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O8D0IC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage and it's loud but works well. On my other I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XNNYMU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage and it's much quieter and also works very well. Granted my ducting is 6" to match, but I like it.

For 2), what diameter items? I got my rotary for free from some promotion/preorder/I can't remember and I actually have barely used it. It's hard to fit into the machine, as it raises items up off the floor of the laser, and there isn't much vertical height left over. I'd estimate you could only do roughly 1/2" diameter stuff without removing the floor of the laser (which isn't hard), but even then you'll likely only get to 1" or so. You'd need to remove the floor and set it up on something to get anything bigger. The removable floor is pretty nice; I took mine out and haven't looked back.

For 3), I can't comment on the cost of the 45W tube, as I didn't get one with mine, but I don't see it being worth it. You can get a whole second tube from LightObject for less than the cost of "upgrading" that first tube: http://www.lightobject.com/SP-35W-CO2-Sealed-Laser-Tube-for-Small-K40-laser-engraving-machine-P208.aspx Note that, despite being labeled as a "40W" laser, most of these small machines are actually about 30-32W. 40W refers to the peak pulse power when starting up; it's not a continuous run rating.

As far as compressors go, I haven't ever run without one. It helps TREMENDOUSLY when vector cutting and helps a LOT to keep your lens clean. Their compressor is OK but it's a bit pricey; I'd look around and see if I could find a continuous-duty-rated compressor for cheaper than that.

Don't get their water chillers either. The $600 one is just a radiator and a fan, and won't chill your water much. You get WAY more bang for your buck from a 5 gallon bucket. If you run it for a long time, freeze gallon jugs of water and put them in the bucket. I've run 100% power vector cutting jobs for 2 hours at a time with a gallon of ice in there, and it's just about right. You might need another half gallon; it's been a while since I've used that method. Their "Advanced chiller" looks decent, but it's WAY overpriced. An equivalent unit from here: http://www.vminnovations.com/search/index.html?q=AACH25 is $425 for a brand new one, and less than $300 for a refurb, and it's actually a refrigerant based unit. I installed an 80W tube in mine (not their official kit) and use that chiller and it works great.

Last, don't get their 90W upgrade kit either unless you have a REALLY good reason to. A tube and PSU cost around $1100, so you're paying nearly $2000 for brackets and a wiring harness. It's just not a good value, but then again installing your own 80W tube isn't exactly a walk in the park if you don't have some fabrication tools handy.

I hope that helps. For what it's worth I really like my lasers and they have served me well. If I get another laser it'll probably be a direct import from GWeike, but that's only because I've been using the FSL lasers for so long and have learned a TON from them.

I've owned my first home for 3 years and two years ago I designed and was the general contractor for an incredible master bedroom/bath addition.

Suggestions, my house has a one piece sink/counter and it's wonderful and easy to clean and seamless - love it. Highly recommend. Rectangular sinks are popular right now, don't do it--most sinks are oval for a reason (I have rectangle and I've had to relearn how to use a sink and it's too shallow and I don't like it).

I'd recommend not doing tile in your bath/shower area and getting a single vinyl piece like what you currently have (but not green). The shower inserts are easy to clean, elegant, and you can even buy them with a tile design that looks real but is still super easy to clean. Showers should always have extendable shower head arms to make cleaning easier. I'd get one of those curved shower curtain rods to make the shower feel wider. Add recessed lighting above the shower and a few more recessed lights in the room.

For my bathroom addition, I got this fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TJAGO4/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=IG66NQLIR3JQR&colid=1BWCRY8EQNMEF and it's very quiet, not too expensive, and works really well - it was a Reddit recommendation in several different threads and I'm glad I got it.

How many bathrooms are in your house? Is this the master bathroom? That would determine some choices for me. Does that set of doors on the right hide a linen closet or is it the washer/dryer? If you're taking the room down to the studs and those doors hide a linen closet or a washer/dryer or something else? Consider how much linen closet space you need. If it's a linen closet and if this is the master bathroom or a 'kid' bathroom, I'd recommend trying to get a double sink in here and making the linen closet smaller. If it's laundry, then obviously keep it as a laundry room.

Good idea on removing all the tile and replacing with floor tile and drwall. I'd omit the cabinet above the sink and get a bathroom mirror that will show more of your reflection (especially make your belt area visible) and have storage behind the bathroom mirror. A mirror like this from Ikea would give you a lot of storage space (http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20205171/) - my bathroom mirror is similar but has mirror on the inside which is a nice feature. I wish I had installed the mirror cabinet flush with the wall instead of popping out a few inches. I had the electrician put an outlet near the bottom of the toilet (I saw in a bunch of magazines) and several near the sinks for shaving and electric toothbrushes. I also have a small linen closet in my bathroom and had the electrician put an outlet in there so I could leave my hair dryer plugged in all the time. It's the little things! Think about how you use your space and what you want out of it.

LED lightbulbs, Home Depot has some that are 2 for $5 that are plenty bright and dimmable.

Get some lamps too, put LED bulbs in em. All you really need most of the time is 1-2 lamps providing light instead of the overhead lights.

While it was an absolute nessesity for my apartment since it has a tiny water heater, a low flow shower head like this (and I actually had that one, i loved it but i got a room mate and they didn't) or at least a valve to kill the water when you're soaping up like this one. Saves hot water when others need to shower, as well as saving water in general.

A window shrink-wrap kit like this one can keep the cool air in in the summer and out in the winter.

While heading on the extreme side, if your door seals as crappily as mine does Magnetic weatherstripping will keep a nice seal around your door keeping the conditioned air inside and bugs outside.

Making sure to clean the lint trap after every use is important. If you own the drier, you could also remove the back panel (unplug it first!) and clean the whole duct.

putting some outlet insulation under your outside-facing wall plate-covers will help.

If you have central air, ask your landlord if the filter is your responsibility. If it is, make sure to replace it every 30-60 days. I would recommend a Filtrete filter, since I like being able to breathe when I wake up on a high-pollen day. If you have a terminal A/C unit make sure that you clean the filter well, using a little OxyClean to get it fully clean is a good idea. Some evaporator cleaner may be needed if the metal intake fins behind the filter are dirty.

If you do have a terminal system, it may also be worth it to use safer styles of space heater instead of the terminal's heat pump. The heat pump on mine is crap.

Asking your landlord to clean your drier's wet air outlet will prevent fires, decrease drying time, and save money.

That's all I can think of.

Two days ago, the Tangilope's leaves went a little limp. Upon inspection of the soil, it appeared to me it was due to the cup starting to fill with roots and quickly sucking the cup dry of most water. I do not believe it is over-watering, but I could be mistaken. Last night, I decided to move it to a 2gal smart pot filled with approx. 3/4 Roots Organics and 1/4 chucky perlite moistened for a very light and airy mix. I then used approx. 6oz of water to water mostly around the root ball (no run-off, I didn't want to drown it). It's still growing, but I'm hoping the leaves will bounce back to their perky selves soon. I plan on letting the soil dry out quite a bit before the next watering. And as soon as it bounces back and grows one more node, the topping and LST will begin.

The Vanilla Kush is getting big quick, and I'm liking how wide the leaves are looking already. I was hoping to get a more Indica pheno to balance the tangilope. I looked at the rootball last night, and I think it could go a bit longer without transplant. I watered it again this morning, so it will be ready for a transplant tomorrow night.

Things are looking pretty good so far, and I'm getting excited now that the plants are starting to move along. I can't wait to train my first couple plants. Topping, tying, and scrogging to come. Thanks for looking

INFO

Plants: (1) Feminized Barney's Farm Vanilla Kush & (1) Feminized DNA Genetics Tangilope.

Tent: 3'x3'x6' Apollo Tent

Light: iPower 600w closed hood running at 50% for seedlings and about 14" away from plant.

Fan: 440CFM exhaust fan

Carbon Scrubber: 6"x16" phresh filter

Soil: 1/3 roots organics & 2/3 pro-mix HP for seedling stage

Nutes: General Organics GO Box

Pots: RR > solo cup > 1 or 2gal smart pot > 5gal smart pot > 7 (maybe)

PH Kit: General Hydro

Seed Starter: Rapid Rooters

Thank you for this write-up.

This is the Gila film that I installed on my window. I'm not sure how that compares to the titanium, but I may look into upgrading to the titanium film if the difference is dramatic enough. I'm assuming this film is safe for my patio door?

I'll definitely look into thermal curtains. I've thought about doing something like this, essentially trying to keep the heat trapped in the area between my curtains and the door or putting something in the space my patio door sits to try to insulate that area better.

Unfortunately my AC unit is virtually new... I just had it installed less than two years ago. I'm curious what the seasonal efficiency rating is... I do know that he made some adjustments to what I previously had to account for the fact that I'm on the third floor and my unit gets a lot of sun exposure.

I'll have to look into an evaporative cooler. My place is pretty small, so it doesn't take much to cool it. If it weren't for the fact that I lived on the third floor and my unit baked like an oven during the hottest days of the summer, my power bill during the summer would be negligible because it would take so little to cool it. If I could put one of those units in the room at night for sleeping that may be worth it.

Thanks again for this write-up. It gives me a lot of ideas to look into.

Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin

Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)

Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.

Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose

90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow

4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer

2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"

Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM

Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller

Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply

Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable

Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)

2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow

Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter

Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan

Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil

Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer

Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)

Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!

I haven't heard of any making them louder than full, but most don't really make it much quieter than full. This could be something to do with the type of fan used or the controllers.

Here is an example of a way to make a carbon filter. This one is meant to be connected to an inline duct fan, which is probably the type I would recommend for your sized space.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Suncourt-Inductor-6-in-In-Line-Duct-Fan-DB206/100067594

http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-DF4-Duct-Fan-100/dp/B00F6BL11U/ref=lp_13399911_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1412050146&sr=1-1

You can find them at any big hardware store to check it out in person before buying too if you don't want to order online

Okay I just looked up the fan you were talking about in your original post and if this is the one, then how were you planning on attaching a carbon filter to it? It looks really flat like a jumbo computer fan and doesn't seem like it would be easy to both mount to your box and attach a filter to. Also, that type of fan generally doesn't have very good suction/air pressure. They can have a decent CFM rating and are useful for circulating air within the box or as exhaust fans without a filter, but once you introduce something that impedes the flow, they don't have enough force to push air through well. I originally thought you were talking about this type of fan

Either way, if you do end up getting a speed controller on any kind of fan, it is important when using it to start the fan up at 100% speed, then lower the speed down to your desired setting, not start it at 0 and turn it up or start it at the final speed.

http://www.amazon.com/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406364384&sr=8-4&keywords=Window+tint

Just installed this at my dad's new office. I can't speak to the day version but this has a shiny reflective feeling to it that didn't let me look in. In the middle of application I walked outside on a bright 90* Fahrenheit day and looked at the window my dad was working on. You could easily see him quite clearly in the section that did not have tint. The other half of the window did have the film and just reflected my view so I would see clouds and the sky BUT I saw the light fixture in the office. I did NOT see him. Not even a shadowy figure. Just a head shaped object(that from my angle looked like clouds and the blue sky) covered up a portion of the light fixture. Any window film should be a great help and I doubt you'll have a bad experience with any window film unless you get a transparent one. I say go for the type of tint that you would like to have in that location. Black? Slight blue or green tinge to it? Reflective like a mirror? I'm sure you've seen the different styles in cars. Hell, some are even red! There are two ratings usually given to window film. Heat index and light index. I'm guessing you want the one that does not allow much light to enter or one with a reflective material which I personally believe is the best option for a house. Black tint works better for a car in my personal opinion.

I understand being overwhelmed at first here, but I couldn't imagine trying to figure it out from a different language, so props to you! You can definitely build your own setup, or you could purchase a grow tent. The sizes range anywhere from 4x4x7' (or 4 feet by 4 feet wide and 7 feet tall), smaller, bigger, there's something out there for everyone. Some common lighting sizes with MH/HID (metal-halide/high intensity discharge, just different styles for different stages) bulbs are 400W, 600W, 1000W or so I've seen on here. You could also go with LED lights, but I don't know much about those. It depends on how many plants you'd like to grow and the size of your space.

As far as fans, I would get more powerful inline fans like this or this to actually move the air around if you're planning a bigger grow. If you're not too worried about a carbon filter, which it never hurts to be, maybe you could try making a DIY one with some supplies from your store and a guide from this sub?

Hope this helped, best of luck and please update us! (ps your English is actually fine and easy to understand)

With the thermal insulation, get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS (Doesn't necessarily have to be that exact one -- Promise, I'm not a shill for the company! ;) ) Get a little crafty and you can cut and origami it with duct tape to fit the back of your tank and part of the sides (and whatever else you need) perfectly.

Best substrate is generally 5:1 play sand to eco earth -- looks like you have a lot of eco earth in there. This makes it more difficult for crabs to make tunnels and molt appropriately, but others have kept crabs just fine with only eco earth so YMMV.

Rocks in the bottom of the dishes aren't necessary if you have ramps. I have a 2.5 gallon pool with only a ramp and the crabs are just fine! They live near the ocean and deep pools -- they can spend easily half an hour underwater and aren't going to drown out of stupidity :)

I'd recommend filling the big open space with a little more in the way of hidey holes or stuff for climbing. I really like strawgrass reptile hammocks/lizard loungers, which can be rolled up into all sorts of shapes and huts and things for hermit crab adventures!

Like others have said, stop misting! Get a glass top if you don't already have one, and with the bubblers your humidity should be fine. Misting will cause bacterial blooms, water pooling, and all sorts of problems (I ruined my first tank setup within a couple weeks because of it...).

Everything else looks good to me!

This is why I'd never buy a smaller fan. Not only do you have to make up the difference, but you have to do it in such a small area, which is even tougher. If it were several inches, you could slap up some new drywall scraps and then mud/paint. But 3/4", that's like doing drywall surgery. Pain in the butt.

If possible, I'd go up in size. Even if it's just 3/4" in the other direction, it's just cutting drywall. That's easy.

Check out the Panasonic Whisper line. I installed one in my basement bath and it's awesome.

EDIT: I see now you're saying the bezel does cover the hole. In that case, I wouldn't worry about it so much. You can probably stick some foam backer rod or other cheap weatherstripping in there. It's going to be hidden, anyway.

EDIT 2: Someone else rec'd expanding foam. Indeed, that's probably the most ideal solution. But I wonder whether you'll have anything to back it. I'm imagining a 3/4" gap between drywall and the fan enclosure, with literally nothing above. Just open air. So, if you spray foam up there, it's just going to fly up into the joist bay. I suppose maybe you could spray it directly on the side of the enclosure. If it sticks, you can build it up that way. Also, expanding foam can get VERY messy and it sticks to everything. Have water and maybe even acetone nearby for cleanup. Wear gloves. Good luck!

Making a simple but effective IH is so cheap and easy every Dynavap owner should do it.

IH instructions:

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).
Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

I've got the exact same machine.

- I run my Air pressure at about 100-120 PSI.

-Be sure the keep your lenses clean. I cracked one in my first week due to stupidity.

-Be sure your air is on. The machine wont run if the chiller isn't running, so you don't have to worry about that.

-Be sure to pull your collection tray before it is full, otherwise you are going to be pulling bed slats to get the excess out.

-Spend $100 bucks on amazon and get a different blower for exhaust. The one that comes with it is super loud. I got one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tjernlund-M-6-Booster-Hydroponic-Conditioning/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=6%22+blower&qid=1564068420&s=industrial&sr=1-13

-If you are cutting metal, be sure you are using oxygen and not compressed air

-Have Fun. The boss is a great machine. Just start playing and learning and if you get really really stuck, boss laser tech support is awesome

Thought I'd chime in. I just got my airbrush compressor and airbrush last Friday. But I'd done a bit of research and had a plan.

I built this out of parts from Amazon totaling $50 and a cardboard box.

The main components are:
An air filter. Try and get something that filters more particulates. Like smoke, mold and pollen, but a nice one if you aren't blowing the stuff outside.

A cheap 4in hose like you'd have behind your dryer.

This thing. Dust Hood for 4-Inch Hose

And the Air Motivator

Though I'd recommend getting a different vent booster, as this one is a bit weak. But it does work. The great thing about a vent booster is 2 fold. It's already 4 inches wide so it fits right on the 4 in hose. And it's at the other end of the hose. So the noise is very muted. Though this fan is pretty quite. I'd say it's more quite than a tiny desk fan.

Oh. And we can't forget. About a kilometer of Duck Tape.

I’m not actually a fan expert, I just play one on the internet.

Yes, I think using multiple fans I think just helps even the airflow in a space.

Most people use a fan speed controller like this.

It allows for infinite speed adjustment which is nice to balance noise and airflow.

(I Think) the impeller design of the first two fans helps them move air efficiently when ducting and filters are causing resistance. While the more typical propeller like design of the last fan has trouble dealing with that, and just causes turbulence and decreased efficiency.

Also the impeller design should be much quieter.

Reflectix is this shiny insulation stuff (similar to a car sun visor) you can get at hardware stores. It's really easy to work with and makes great insulated cozys or bags for dehydrated meals.

Here's a quick tutorial on how to make them, again it's pretty straightforward - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FTln2_5Pgo

This is reflectix, if you are decently crafty it's pretty straight forward to make a little thing to put a tupperware in to keep it warm -
https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496262196&sr=1-1

and Here is the type of tupperware I was mentioning, I've used them as a bowl on many trips and they have always worked great (they have 2 different sizes) - https://www.amazon.com/Ziploc-Twist-Containers-Small-Lids/dp/B003UEGZCA/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496262262&sr=8-2

Those windows may be old enough not to have a coating at all. I'd suggest applying some heat control window film to the inside of the glass, which will reflect both UV and infrared light, as well as a portion of the visible light to reduce glare. Gila Platinum is a great option, they also have it in a non-adhesive peel-and-stick version, though it's harder to install.

Check if they truly are single-pane by holding up your phone's flashlight or other bright point of light and seeing how many reflections appear in the window. If it looks like a mirror it's a single-pane, if you see two reflections it's double-pane. If it's a single-pane window it is definitely worth replacing with a good double-pane window. If it's already double-pane then it probably isn't worth replacing unless it has a metal frame, just use window film and try to seal up any air leaks.

It's actually pretty simple. At it's most basic, try this comment from /u/improvaper


https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/a4xzkk/finally_jumped_on_the_dynavap_bandwagon_and_got/ebij6op


Make an induction heater! It's cheap and easy. I've been blasting my instructions everywhere around here lately. If you're interested, let me know and I'll blast them again here. :)

It's definitely worth the (extremely little) effort.

Edit: blasting:

I made mine for about $30 with parts available on Amazon:

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/3i4UmNQ

Circuit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNM24YM/

Power Supply Unit (PSU) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DNW1CNB

Glass insulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009EQMZE

Beyond this, all you need is 2 small wires (unbraided, thick copper wires will work best), cutters to make them, a small jeweler's standard screwdriver to screw them down, and a power strip for a poor-man's power switch. If you don't have any of these things, they are also cheap.

First, untwist your induction coil one wrap and spread it out and around the glass insulator slide to match the pic. This spacing gives you a 20-second light with a Ti vapcap sitting at the bottom, which is pretty heavy. If you want it lighter, either leave the coils tighter or just put a cork plug in the bottom of the tube to raise the bottom where the vapcap sits. You can get it down to about 4 seconds with this PSU. Basically, holding it in the center of the coil or keeping the coils tighter will speed it up. 20 seconds is ideal for me. Makes about 2-3 big bong rips per load.

Screw in the ends of the induction coil into the side closest to the circuit coils going in the same direction (see pic). Screw your 2 small wires into the other end of the circuit, and clip the other ends of the wires into the little adapter that comes with the PSU. Don't worry about polarity. The circuit simply won't work the wrong way (blue light won't come on).

Plug in the AC side of the PSU to your power strip (turned off) and the other end into the adapter that came with it, now clipped into your induction heater (this part is covered with tape in the pic, but it's as simple as it sounds).

Hit the power strip switch to operate. Be sure to turn it off before removing the vapcap so you don't forget. Forgetting will result in an overheating unit (yes, the coils get very hot very fast) and early failure. I had one circuit board melt this way. Pretty cheap if it happens but beware. I've used this one for many months now without issue just being mindful. Good luck!

Well right now I'm running a bit bare (actually on a smoking hiatus until I cement this job I'm hankering after) but right now I have a draft guard under my door (here's an example).
Otherwise for the longest time at my old place I also used (and plan on reinstalling before the winter) some weather stripping around the door too (like this) that is just great at keeping cold air out and skunky smoke in.

A really cheap and honestly practical solution, and it'll help keep bugs and cold air out of your home. Win-win.

Nice setup. You can save some space by using a 7 or 10 gallon cloth pot, and cutting it down (so, 6" tall and 14" wide).

You probably don't need an intake fan in a tent that size, just a 4" hole with some light proofing (cut-to-fit furnace filter works, or some ducting).

For the outtake fan, maybe look at a 6" duct fan with a speed controller attached. Or even a 4". Better to have too much airflow, and be able to dial it down. If you ever expand, duct fans make good intakes.

Oh, and paint the inside of the box white. For better light reflection, and also to waterproof your plywood a bit.

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but Reflectix is pretty close. I've used it to keep my pot hot and make it easier to hold after cooking, it's decent, but not thermos level insulation.

https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-48-Inch-10-Feet-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS

If you ever order groceries online (like from Amazon Fresh or Prime Now), you can get this stuff for free from the bags they put your groceries in

I just asked a similiar question not long ago and looked at many premade kits, I feel like I got a way better setup doing it somewhat separately, I looked at stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/BloomGrow-Reflective-Ducting-Hydroponic-24X24X48/dp/B0757YRKW7/ref=sr_1_49?m=AOALYYYVUG1U0&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&qid=1561412214&s=merchant-items&sr=1-49&th=1 , and eventually purchased this stuff, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019ETLC7M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 160$ actual wattage is like 250-275 ish

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 120$

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PJ4VWF7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 70$

It is like 75-100 more expensive but I felt like it was a huge jump in quality for the money invested. Thanks to the people who advised me to buy not as a complete kit.

Keep doors to unused rooms closed. Electric is very efficient, it's just that it's usually more expensive than gas. Light bulbs double as 100 percent efficient heaters. Fans on low generate heat and, if spinning in the proper direction help circulate warm air from the ceiling. Depending on your gas heater, some thermoelectric fans are pretty helpful.

Agree with the CO monitors. I have a Nest monitor and it doubles as a nice nightlight.

If you have electric baseboards or forced air, they can be more efficiently controlled with a new thermostat. Chances are you have the shitty twist knob ones that heat the room to 90 then turn off until it's 50 again.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=baseboard+thermostat&qid=1571606653&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/TOMERSUN-Powered-Fireplace-Circulating-Efficiently/dp/B07VQNGKLK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thermoelectric+fan&qid=1571606558&sr=8-4

https://www.hansenwholesale.com/ceiling-fans/fan-direction-summer-winter

I agree with you. And for about the same price, you get a much better and much quieter fan. I have two Panasonic WhisperCeiling 110 CFM fans and they are amazing. I paired them with a discrete timer switch and I feel like i'm living in luxury. Very easy to install. It appears Amazon is out of them right now, maybe discontinued the model, not sure.

I would stick with using a fan. The trick is you cannot just put a computer fan blowing upwards into some insulated tubing. Think of blowing into a 12' pipe with a cap on the end; the air needs somewhere to go or it will not flow. You need to use a centrifugal fan (like this) in your keezer and figure out a way to attach it to smaller tubing (probably 1"ish in diameter) and run the tubing up to your beer tower in the kitchen. This way the cold air is blowing out at the top of your beer lines and will circulate back down into the keezer. If you try this with a normal computer fan it will not work; they are very low pressure but high cfm. Since your fan will be acting more like an air pump than a fan it needs to be a powerful centrifugal fan (higher pressure) or their will not be enough air pressure to travel through a 12' tube.

This is the answer to your prayers, my friend. It's called Reflectix. It is a foil insulation wrap 5/8 inches thick. Two outer layers of aluminum foil reflect 97-Percent of radiant heat. Each layer of foil is bonded to two inner layers of insulating bubbles that resist conductive heat flow. I have applied this to every window and surface on the west side of the house facing the hot Texas sun which reaches 110 degrees these days.

Before I put these on, I could only gain a 15 degree differential from the outside to inside on the rooms that faced west, whereas now I stay a cool 25 to 30 degrees cooler. You can use chrome duct tape or velcro tape to secure it in minutes. It is a wonder solution, I highly recommend it.

Good morning, frients!!! I just completed my IH build based on A LOT of research/lurking around these parts. Here are a few more pictures of the setup/internals:

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https://i.imgur.com/pEex7Xh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ntdy5qi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HoTzHAi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JDlo2FV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Hiz0sea.jpg

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**Update/Parts List**

Box/Enclosure

Induction heater board w/coil

Glass tube

(I shoved a cork in there from an old craft beer bottle. I just shaved it down with an x-acto knife until I was happy with the fit/spacing)

Mosfet

Power supply

Red toggle switch

Momentary switch

DC panel-mount jack

Insulated crimp connectors

I used 16-gauge red/black wiring and insulated crimp connectors I had left over from previous projects.

​

Here's the bubbler I was using with the optional glass mouthpiece.

​

Total: ~$65 USD

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TL;DR This thing is badass and easy to put together. Do it!!!

I spent some more time today reading up on fans on some other forums. I've ruled out "booster fans" completely as it seems the only upside to those is the price. Noise and power seem to be the big trade off.

PC fans certainly are low cost and fairly quiet, but they also seem like they'll require a bit more work to get them installed in terms of adapting a square fan to round ducting/grow tent ports. They too seem to be at the low end in terms of power, and though I don't need a carbon scrubber with my current setup, it might be prudent to allow for one if required down the road...

So, now I'm leaning towards a proper centrifugal fan (eg. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KMOJPK/ref=aw_2nd_sims_5?pi=SS115) along with a speed controller, as it seems they can be relatively quiet when running at lower speeds. The added benefit is that I could potentially cool a 400W HID with this fan if I decided to repurpose this little tent at some point.

Thoughts? Would a similar fan from Sunleaves (at three times the price) be significantly quieter?

Set up was super easy, old port screws right off and you screw the new one right one and then slap on a filter and a fan (any carbon filter should do but here’s what I bought that works well)

VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMBU6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

VIVOHOME 4 Inch 195 CFM Plastic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078HFVTYX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And finally some ducting-

iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Aluminum Foil Vent with 2 Clamps, Ducting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPE3XHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CfrZCb6YXV1V7

This really works well for me. The smell otherwise is intolerable. Carbon filters are really amazing.

Ceramic Tile Heater

These things are awesome, they each use as much electricty as a 100w light bulb.

We use them in the bedrooms at night. We'll turn them on about an hour before bedtime. Then when we go to bed, we'll turn the heat way down. The tile heaters do a great job at maintaining the room's temperature throughout the night.

In the morning, our programmable thermostat slowly warms the place back up.

We've saved about 40% on our heating bill last year.

I'm a building inspector in Washington state. This sounds about like our ventilation code.

Positive drainage 'plane' is probably what you are looking for. Ideally, IF you had any condensation In your duct, they want you to slope it to the exit so it would drain outside, and not back inside.

We have a colder climate here than in Texas, and I haven't heard anyone mention it.

However, you still want to ventilate your bathrooms, kitchens,and laundry rooms because of all the moisture from bathing, cooking and doing laundry.

You choose, continuous ventilation at 20cfm, or intermittent ventilation at higher cfm(like 80-100).

1.5 sones is an indicator of how loud the fan is. That's a crappy loud, cheap low cfm fan....which means you'll hate hearing it run, and means you're likely to turn it off too soon. This means you'll get mold in your home...

Spend $120bucks on Amazon and get a better, quieter fan (Panasonic 80 cfm) which can run continous, OR intermittently.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TJAGO4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521439754&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=panasonic+bathroom+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41dkHb21dvL&ref=plSrch

As far as ducting... it sounds like they want you insulate (R-6) your ducts. This will likely also help with preventing any condensate inside. And it appears they won't allow a flexible connection at the exterior vent termination....don't know why though.

Almost all modern fans come with energy star rating, and backdraft dampers.

Electric requirement is for GFCI. Kinda stupid since fans are in ceilings, even in bathrooms, so no real danger of electrical shock...but not a bad idea I guess.

Good luck.

The duct fan that im using is this one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-S4-Controller/dp/B07JB292JC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1RWB03A6H659R&keywords=duct+fan+4+inch&qid=1573145365&sprefix=duct+fan+8+inch%2Caps%2C134&sr=8-6

I originally had used a smaller 4" duct fan that was rated for 100cfm but that wasnt strong enough to evacuate the fumes from my enclosure. Im pretty happy with this fan as its quiet and i can barely notice it running sitting next to the printer.

Im in a full enclosure that i built and my enclosure temps stay around 80 degrees F while printing with this fan running at max.

I have a Panasonic Whisperline 6" fan that I use to vent the hot air from my server cabinet. It wasn't cheap, but it is SUPER quiet. I have it sitting on top of the server cabinet 3 feet from my head when I am at my desk and I don't even notice it most of the time. It is seriously quieter than my bathroom fan, but it moves up to 240CFM. The cheap "grow room" fans you see on amazon are loud as hell. It is worth it to spend the extra money on a good name brand. The Panasonic is industrial rated for continuous 24/7 use (unlike the burn-your-house-down Chinese fans), and if installed remotely (like in an atic) is basically silent.

Alright taking into consideration the 12 plant limit here, my previous setup was too big for so few plants. So with some downsizing hopefully saves even more!

Tent - GROWNEER 48"x36"x72" Lodge Propagation Tent

Lights - HLG65 lm301b and red 660nm hydroponic grow light 4000K x 2

Kingbrite 240W samsung lm301h 288v3 quantum board X1

Fan - AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4” Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller

PH Meter - Wellcows Digital PH Meter

PPM Meter - HM Digital TDS-EZ Water Quality TDS Tester

Carbon Filter - VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter

Ducting - VIVOSUN 2-PACK 4 Inch 8 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting

Nutrients - MEGA Crop (2500g)

Botanicare CAL-MAG Plus Plant Supplement 2-0-0 Formula, 1 Quart

PH Control - General Hydroponics pH Control Kit

Soil - PREMIER HORTICULTURE 20380RG PRO-Mix HP High Porosity Grower Mix

Pots - Gardzen 10-Pack 1 Gallon Grow Bags x 2

Cloning Machine - CLONE KING 25

Total - 880.62 (includes shipping)

So with this setup ill keep 1 or 2 mother plants and then run the rest in SoG in 1 gallon pots. Using the 2 4000k lights for the mother plant and the cloning station and the 240w for the SoG area of the tent. Its a small setup but I think it'll work. Any idea what kinds of yeilds this could achieve? Any further input would be greatly appreciated.

OK. Here is what you are dealing with:

1.(L) black. Line voltage load. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

2.(W/Y) orange. W=heating and Y=cooling. Used for a two pipe hydronic heating/cooling system. That means water.

3.(Y/A) yellow. Y = cooling. A = electrical heater output. Heat and cool active to any relay.

4.(G1) red. Low speed fan. Through a relay.

5.(GM) blue. Medium speed fan. Through a relay.

6.(GH) brown. High speed fan. Through a relay.

7.(N) white. Line voltage neutral. Either 110v or 220v. Need to verify with a voltmeter.

What is missing is the "C" and "R" wires. Nowhere is there a low voltage 24v load and common wire. Your current thermostat does not use it.

You have two options that I know of. Purchase a transformer to supply the 24v to your new thermostat. Or return the Honeywell and purchase a wifi enabled line voltage T-stat.

Transformers. Here are two that may work:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC
For 240 volts

http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464560168&sr=8-1&keywords=Aube+RC840T-120
For 120 volts

Line voltage T-stat:
https://casaconnect.com/en/shop/smart-thermostat-caleo/

Note: Since you have hydronic heating and cooling, in addition to HVAC, either choice for the thermostat will likely mean that you will loose that option. I have not evaluated the new Honeywell or Casa to see if they support hybrid systems.

Wow, kerosine? My Dad grew up with kerosine heaters, that's old school!!! 15a, 250w, standard 120v outlet http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413063415&sr=8-1&keywords=eco+wall+heater

I've heard great things about these!

Your CPU will generally just downclock if it is getting too hot, but that's only if it's reaching over 90 C. I can't imagine it's very pleasant having the PC heat up a 40 C room even more.

Is there a window on the west facing side? I've heard that installing heat-reflecting window film can really help and doesn't cost much. They have different tints so you can still let light through or mirror coat, etc.

Idk if the term is different in Aus but here's the brand I see sold in the US: https://www.amazon.com.au/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG/

Depends on your confidence level. Cleaning the furnace and reachable ductwork with a shop vac will save you money and is not very difficult.

Also, if your comfortable and careful, you can try getting some of this, Nu-Calgon Foam cleaner, follow the instructions, and carefully apply, while being very very carefull to not bend any of the fins.

But number one priority for you should be to measure your filter rack with a tape measure, and buy proper fitting filters. All of this can be avoided with just a little bit of routine maintenance.

Awesome man. I cannot tell you how cool I find all this. Science!

Here is what I have purchased so far.

12v 6a 72w power supply

ZVS Heater and Coil Combo

Switch. Can hold up to 20amps not sure that mattters whatever, room for extra isn't bad.

[Glass Tube]I DELETED THIS AS WHAT I HAD HERE IS TOO BIG! DO NOT BUY THE GUITAR SLIDE I HAD LISTED! NEW TUBE. I ordered this from China on a Thursday, let's see how long it takes to get here.

So, I would just be missing the mosfet and momentary switches that you have. Do you find them necessary? I might just buy the mosfet and momentary for peace of mind, but I did see a couple build that avoided the mosfet for simplicity's sake. This build seems to have avoided one.

Any further advice (wire gauge, soldering tips, etc)? I am currently looking for a good box to put it all in. Thanks again for the reply.

EDIT - MOSFET

Momentary Buttons

Mounting things for the momentary buttons

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS IN THE FUTURE, CONSIDER USING A 120W POWER SUPPLY. I DO NOT REALLY UNDERSTAND BUT SUPPOSEDLY IT MATTERS.

I used this for mine, 2x large totes stacked like your cans.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the bottom stick up about an inch past the lip so it covers the seam when the bins are closed. Its still low enough that i can let it close with out it pinching the reflective wrap. You get a lot of material for only $25, ive done 2x buckets and still have extra left over. Also if you use a roll like mine cut it against the grain, it will push out and basically hold it self together, where i needed it i used duct tape folded sticky side out or just double sided tape.

Hope this helps, otherwise great build! i want to do a large can build like this for a mama, but if i get the space im going to tent it.


Edit: By against the grain i mean perpendicular to how its rolled, lol

> Ahh okay yes that makes sense, what do you usually use for insulation?

Foam pipe insulation works well, or a few wraps with Reflectix works well. Reflectix also looks really nice, taped up with foil HVAC tape.

AC Infinity Cloudline, model depending on what you’re looking for and tent size. I have the basic S4 for my 2x3, it’s super quiet even when running on full power. Strong, durable construction and comes apart really easy for cleaning. I know they’re just exhaust fans and not super interesting but I played with mine for like a half hour before doing anything with it.

https://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-CLOUDLINE-S4-Controller/dp/B07JB292JC

I'm confused, he told you about a carbon filter and im not for sure what your reply post is referring to. Anyways, you need a carbon filter. If you burn a candle the neigbor will now smell the candle and the weed. The carbon filter will work prefect. You don't have to run it 24/7. Just when your smoking and maybe 30 minutes afterward. Here is the carbon filter and fan combo: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0052ZPMAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1420334531&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70. And here is a speed controller for the fan so you don't have to have the fan on full blast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BLOSG7I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1420334616&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70. This will take care of all of your problems. (Amazon links are for U.S.)
You can smoke in your house and the neighbor won't smell it. Good luck and I really hope you go the carbon filter route.

Id' just install a fan in that hole. However, you MUST ensure it is rated for kitchen use. I had to install mine 45 degrees away from the stove.

I bought this one last year and it's great. It is so quiet we barely know it's on:

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-20NLF1-WhisperLine-In-Line-6-Inch/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-5&keywords=panasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen

You could use this in the hole: (I used two):

http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-PC-NLF06S-WhisperLine-Accessory-6-Inch/dp/B00084UCH4/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z

Then I bought some 6" duct and a vent through the side of my gable. It did not take long to install.

I did hire an electrician to install the on/off switch and wire it all up though.

Pics:

http://i.imgur.com/pIaUVCg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gxflsr6.jpg

The closest duct in this picture is for the microwave oven.

http://i.imgur.com/ffVVKI9.jpg

Here are other options:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=panasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Apanasonic+exhaust+fan+kitchen

Is it a window AC, are you talking about the exterior or interior coil?

You can use a no-rinse cleaner like this on the interior coil, they're not as effective but still work pretty well. Just don't overdo it and be sure to run the AC for at least an hour or two after. The idea behind "no rinse" cleaners is to run the AC and let the condensation cycle rinse it for you.

Move air through vents with in line fans. Super easy if you have an attic.
AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4" Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller - Ventilation Exhaust Fan for Heating Cooling Booster, Grow Tents, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB292JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lGRZDbYTQ5HB8

Awesome. I'm also in Canada so here are a few Amazon links for ya:

Tent (or something similar) A lot of people suggest staying away from Vivosun but as far as tents go, it's pretty much all the same for the lower price range.

Exhaust + Carbon filter (or similar, and you will need a few feet at least of flexible ducting to hook it all up, should be cheap at a hardware store or on Amazon as well)

2 Clip-on Fans

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and you're still left with a couple hundred bucks for AC if needed

You should be able to pull that metal part down to get better reach on it.

​

Go to your home improvement store and buy a new hose, you want a more metal looking one.

It should come with 4" hose clamps that screw to tighten them.

​

https://www.amazon.com/iPower-Non-Insulated-Aluminum-Ventilation-included/dp/B00EPE3XHY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dryer+hose&qid=1563120074&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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It is much easier to tighten these hose clamps with a nut driver or nut.

Relocating the filter should be part of the job but also cleaning your coils should partially help fix the issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/

Buy enough cans to get free shipping (if you don't have prime)

Get a dish brush spread evenly without bending the fins and then try removing the clumps before they clog your drain

If pionner dont have them i dont know either, but I think you can easily adjust something for that, its not like you need to move the speaker constantly.

Something like:

• velcro
  
  
• rubber feet and make an ark with a cutter
  
• wood blocks sanded to make an arc + velcro on top to stop vibrations
  
• foam blocks
  
• original speaker foam pads
  
• Foam door sealers trips
  
  I can think of several of thing you can put on the speaker to adjust it, it just depends on how you want it to look.
  
  The cheapest would be a sheet of foam, you probably have some laying around from packages, cut it with a cutter to your desired size and just put your speaker on top, the foam will keep it in place.

Everything looks good besides the ventilation. That fan lacks the static pressure needed to pull air through a carbon filter. You need something more like this, though I recommend a quality fan if affordable. Also, you want to pull air from the top of the tent. If you pull from the bottom, you are going to have hot, stagnant air above the filter.

You'll probably be alright, but a dimmable power supply is helpful, especially in a small space.

Just make sure you have the same size (4 or 6 inch) filter and tubing. I have that fan with this and this and its super simple, everything fits together

>recommend a grow "bible", which would it be?

The grow bible or anything else by Jorge Cervantes:

https://www.amazon.com/Marijuana-Horticulture-Outdoor-Medical-Growers/dp/187882323X/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PH02JZK2F8GQF3WE1P5F

> How can I control odors when trimming, harvesting, and handling the plant in general outside of the bucket?

Ozone (controversial) or an open container of Ona with a fan blasting air over it. I do both at 3am when no one is likely to come over. I'll really crank up the ozone when I'm done and leave for an hour or so. Even being legal I still use this procedure.

The above is more for a harvest which can be very stinky. For steady odor control assistance you can drill a 1/4 inch hole or two in the lid of the Ona and just leave it in the living room.

ONA Pro works best in my experience but prefer the Apple Crumble. I have found that the Apple Crumble will not impart an odor on the plants if used in the same room.

https://www.amazon.com/Ona-Gel-Pro-30-oz/dp/B00AC1N4DM

>Do I need an air booster to use an inline carbon filter, or will a 12V PC fan have enough power on it's own?

Yes something. 12 volt PC fans often do not have enough static pressure for carbon filters. With AC fans you can use a light dimmer or a dimmer intended for inductive loads to control the fan speed if mechanical noise is an issue. The dimmers/speed controllers will usually generate some electrical noise or RFI.

https://www.amazon.com/Lighthouse-Hydro-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I

I can't really recommend a seed bank (I can buy clones) but they tend to be very discrete and with many you can mail cash. Their reputation would be severely harmed if they played any games here. Some accept bitcoin.

Someone else will have to recommend an online seed shop domestically. Sensi Seeds is likely the best due to original/better genetics but they are based out of Amsterdam. I would just pack the seeds in a small alarm clock and forget about it in the past when I smuggled seeds back to the US.

Check this out - looks to be a workable solution:

https://www.quora.com/Is-there-a-work-around-for-the-Nest-Thermostat-to-control-line-voltage-electric-baseboard-heaters

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A26RBB5XP2LWJC

Good luck!

If your apartment gets full, direct sun, get some thermal curtains and reflective window film. Gila puts out a window film kit that works well and can be easily removed when you need to move. You can find it at Lowes and Home Depot. If you get the film, be sure you get the Application Kit for it too.

I had this same issue in my old apartment. The AC would run full tilt, without stopping, and I'd be lucky to see temps below 85F in the summer. I was on the top floor and got full afternoon sun. The curtains and film helped drop the temp a few degrees.

>Can you explain your buckets air flow and air filtration?

My bucket has two passive 120mm intakes that are covered with mesh filters and a single 120mm exhaust in the lid that connects to a 4" flange with dryer ducting. There is a 4" 190 CFM In-Line fan connected to a 4x12 Carbon Filter. I also have a variable fan controller on the in-line fan. I run mine at about half power.

>What do you have your plant in? Planter and soil on the bottom of bucket ect?

I use a 5g nursery pot. For my next grow I will be switching to a smart pot to avoid it getting rootbound.

>I was thinking of extending a 5g bucket under the brute can so the soil is under the setup and the plant itself is in the brute only allowing more space to grow.

If you're gonna do that you're better off getting one of those 5g DWC setups. With that said, I'd advise against doing that. Reason being is you add another layer of complexity in that you have to figure out how to support the brute and you run risks with light leaks. This also puts the brute much higher than you are which can make servicing/watering awkward.

I just have mine sitting on the bottom of the bucket in the pot. The newer style Brutes cause you to lose a few inches but if you can budget to buy two of them and use one as a spacer, it works well.

>Would that work or would I have an issue with temperature difference between roots and plant?

I am not experienced enough to say yay or nay but I doubt it?

Too much moisture in the AC evaporator coil box, it gets mildew in there.

​

If you turn the AC off and let the fan run fresh air for the last few minutes before you stop driving, it makes a big difference. This helps dry out the box that holds the evap coils.

​

You may need to start with a cleaning of the coils, and then make a habit out of letting it dry out to prevent it from getting funky again.

​

I had some of this stuff already, so I basically pulled the fan out and sprayed it into the box with the coils. Probably better to get toyota's refresher kit if you don't want to deal with that mess (it's a real PITA!). Alternately, you may find a way to attach a hose to the cleaner I linked and squirt it up the drain tube for the evaporator box.

I appreciate your input, I will be making some changes soon. Trying to keep it easy on the wallet, do you think a 240CFM fan would work for cooling the bulb?

I have 2 of these installed in my house:

Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan, 6-Inch Duct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qXhdAb0376KVX

They are awesome! We had a roofing company come out and install roof vents, and the flapper is contained in them, not the fan itself. The in-line fans are much quieter than a fan with the motor installed at ceiling level. And they are easier to install in my opinion since they just have to be screwed up to attic rafters.

Sure, but like:

• These.
  
  
• Brush Weather Stripping
  
  
• or like these

http://www.amazon.com/HONEYWELL-TL8230A1003-Thermostat-Electric-programmable/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449934976&sr=8-2&keywords=honeywell+line+thermostat

I have this one, works great - nice back light and programmable

Ahh got it. It's very important the smells don't come out. That's the main reason I'm running such a long duct out to the window. Here's a link to the fan/filter combo I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3LG55T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I also bought a speed controller because the lowest speed setting on the fan out of the box is pretty loud. Do you think I need the fan on full blast? Tent is 72sf.

Sadly you have a direct voltage / line voltage setup (240V). You'd insta-fry your Nest with this.

​

The best you can get (I've been in your situation before) are these: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/r

​

Which still make a huge difference, cost savings wise, to what you have.

Don't worry about the overall shape of the system. All that matters is what the wires behind the thermostats are and do.

Ecobees don't run on mains voltage; in typical US thermostat wiring, there's a 24V (AC) potential between the "C" and "R" wires on the thermostat harness designated specifically for thermostats that need external power, and this is what Nest, Ecobee, et al run on in the US. In fact, thermostats that go anywhere near mains voltage are very rare in the US. Your diagram implies that these are, in fact, mains voltage thermostats... fun.

Looks like Nest has a "Heat Link" appliance specifically for this scenario. If you like Nest, well, there you go.

More generally, this is an adapter that converts 208-240V "mains relay" thermostat wiring to a US-style 3-wire interface. This could be used with basically any standard US thermostat. It looks like European thermostats differ quite a bit, but it's likely there's similar units out there.

Going to be in a small ish closet in a room thats partially underground. I live in west side washington state if that gives you a general sense of climate, roughly 60 F ambient temp inside said room. It has a window that can be opened for fresh air, average temp in the summer is about 70F. If i run [this fan from amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KMOJPK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458783951&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=50+CFM+inline+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=51xL2qyZJAL&ref=plSrch) with the fan control in the frequently bought together section below will that give me the range of speeds i need?

Skimped out in what way? Telling you about what I do, or not managing effectively?

​

Here's what I did with the rack. I've sealed the front and back of the rack. I then mounted a 6" Tjernlund Blower (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XNNYMU/) capable of 530 ft\^3 /min of airflow (major overkill, the rack is only 32ft\^3). Attached to it is a Duct Fan Speed Controller (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007TFTITS/) that I have to throttle down the airflow. I use it mostly to balance out the noise to heat ratio. The blower is amazingly effective, but it is also amazingly loud when running full-tilt. To that, I attached a long length of metallic dryer hose that basically dead-ends into the drop ceiling and runs a few feet. Ideally I'd like to exhaust it to the outside, but it doesn't currently. I think this is why I still have heat issues.

I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPAULS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to line the inside of my 32gallon setup. It's kind of pricey but IMO worth it. I originally tried Mylar blankets and they are a nightmare to work with. This stuff is thick and easy to work with and claims 95%+ reflectivity.

i'm looking at this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

and:

http://www.amazon.com/Active-Air-720-Inline-8-Inch/dp/B002JQ4K1I/

would these be considered good quality? or do i need to spend roughly twice as much?

thanks for the info.

Thanks. A electrician friend checked it out and looks like 240v pulling about 13 amps. Wired up with 2 wires currently, but he recommended this control and to adjust the way it's wired right now. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483460790&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+line+voltage+thermostat

I used one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-FV-20NLF1-WhisperLine-In-Line-6-Inch/dp/B000EDUIX2

Placed in basement utility room. Intake of duct fan comes from the output side of the 3rd floor system. Output of duct fan blows to a register in basement.

So when I turn this fan on it turns over the air from all three floors. In the winter we heat with a wood-burning stove on the basement level so this helps keep everything stable. In the shoulder seasons where we have only light cooling needs, it lets us only run cooling only on the third floor and the other floors balance out. In summer we run both ACs.

You want a thermostat switching relay like this one

Then use any smart thermostat you want.

From my research, there was only one truly safe space heater for toddlers

UPDATE:

Stopped in at my 2 local grow stores and holy markup batman. One of the stores took out and showed me a Can-Fan HO 6" (Best fan they have according to the grow store guys at both stores...) and truthfully I think my cheap ass ventech fan is better quality...

But the best part is one store wanted $190 for the can fan while the other was asking $230 FOR THE SAME FAN that sells on Amazon for $130 talk about freaking markup.

I really wanted to give my local grow shops some coin but not with the crazy inflated prices and limited selection... Oh yeah both grow stores quoted me Prices for the Vortex S-Line 6" as well. One store was somewhat close at $230 but the other one wanted $310 for the damn thing that growershouse.com sells for $183 with free shipping.

Anyways just needed to vent about the ridiculous prices and that I found and my thoughts on the can-fan HO. Be sure to price check everything you buy at a grow store (other than soil prices seem standard) or you will most likely get ripped the fuck off...

Ok how about this one? I could get two if needed and still be around 100 bucks with this grow tent. Then I just need the light and I'm golden. Actually won't even really need the light until I'm ready to flower, as I think I have enough light power now for a solid veg.

I recently got a roll of Reflectix to bump up the warmth and protect the air mattress. It folds down small and is very lightweight. But, more than a little more heat, I feel it will take any thorns or other pokey things that might come through the tent floor or if I'm cowboy camping.

Thanks! I used this fan with this speed controller, but i found the speed controller only worked over a very small range on the dial. I will likely replace the fan when I automate it with a Rapsberry Pi controller.

You probably don't want blackout curtains, that will absorb all the incident sun light and radiate heat indoors. You want something reflective to reflect the incoming sunlight back out the window. Something like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKM8EG/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687622&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00CST53LW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0BFHK527AAVRR79DTKMD

or a simple white solar shade could be helpful.

VIVOSUN 6 Inch 390 CFM Inline Duct Fan with 6 Inch Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LG55T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c-jDCbWSB7ZQS

This is what I have now, but I don't really expect the carbon filter to last more than a year. For now though, it works great. No smell at all.

I did this last year and it worked great! This year I am upgrading to bubble wrap insulation: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO I got a wide roll of it at a hardware store and plan to duct tape it to the tent then tie rope over it.

I agree, I would not spend too much on the tent, and spent the most on the light, I would suggest the AC Infinity filter fan it is light powerful and adjustable

You want a centrifugal or a "mixed flow" fan, with the latter being supposedly quieter. I just ordered one of these to replace my pair of cheapo axial fans: Can Max Mixed Flow 6" 334cfm

None of these fans are silent by any means. The cheap axial fans are the loudest in my experience.

Paired with a speed controller, carbon filter and insulated ducting, the centrifugal fan cooling my lights is fairly bearable.

Have you tried this yet http://www.amazon.com/Indoor-Window-Insulator-1-Window-Style/dp/B00YP5AVFA/ref=sr_1_9?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452584803&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+window+insulator+kit Install it and shrink it with a hair dryer works really well.

Fill in any visible gaps with something like this http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-Rubber/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=sr_1_17?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452584803&sr=1-17&keywords=3m+window+insulator+kit

Sounds like you are looking for a stat like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=psdc_2054378011_t1_B002Z7EBBU

Something like this should work. SHOULD. I don't know the exact specifics of your setup, but it looks like 240V line-voltage baseboard heating based on your existing thermostat.

If you get this thing, connect all 3 wires to the Nest. It just saves headaches to have a C wire.

This stuff works really well for this purpose. I also use it to get 7.5 gallons to a rolling boil on my stovetop. Probably not useful for you as you're planning on using it in the next few days, but maybe will help someone else

I'm a big fan of sleeping in vehicles to save on rent. I've lived in my truck for 2+ years, and I love it.

What kind of car do you have? Do the back seats fold down for you to sleep like that? You can also sleep across the interior but you'll have to black out all the windows and buy a sun shade.

I have curtains using hooks, binder clips, and bungee cords, but I'm going to switch to Reflectix soon. Look up some YouTube videos on ideas how to do it. I got the idea from these guys.

You've got some spaces and some friends so you don't necessarily need a gym membership to keep up with hygiene, but you need a place to make shits. You'll find those places no problem; I'd just keep some sanitary wipes to clean the toilet seats.

Thank you very much, I think I will go with the brake drum forge. I found a decent set of instructions here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Brake-drum-blacksmithing-forge/?ALLSTEPS, although I still might use fire bricks instead of the cement ones they used. I don't know much about centrifuge fans, and google wasn't especially helpful, do you think this centrifuge fan would be adequate? http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-IF4-Inline-Duct-Fan/dp/B005KMOJPK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409761541&sr=8-3&keywords=centrifugal+fan

Thanks again for your insight

Consider something like this too: https://smile.amazon.com/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

Made a huge diff in here.

Don't use a rangehood. Use a bathroom fan. Something like this:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TJAGO4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469377769&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=bathroom+fan&dpPl=1&dpID=41dkHb21dvL&ref=plSrch

If that is a 115v AC fan, you will need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lighthouse-Hydro-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I

If you have big windows, buy some window film. I bought this and applied it to all my windows/sliding doors this spring. The downside is that it's a somewhat mirror finish.

Last year during the July when it was over 100 like every day, my electricity bill was about $200. This year, after applying that, the highest my bill ever got was $124. Also, make sure your AC is running efficiently. I had a tune up, and the only thing that was wrong was the fins in my AC unit were a little bit clogged. Blew it out with a hose (from the inside towards the outside. You'll need to take off the fan to do this).

Look for a wall-mount heater (http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815787&sr=1-1&keywords=wall+heater)

$.03/hr to run them and keeps my apt nice and warm.

This can be used to hook up baseboard to a thermostat.

http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

with how many you are wanting to hook up, i honestly couldn't offer any advise there. I know the nests are designed so they can network together and work in sync to keep all the rooms on the same temps, but that would be a very pricey undertaking with around 8 different units, as well as 2 AC units.

I use foam weatherstripping like this under all of my tanks. I just stick it to the top of the stands. It's pretty cheap, and I think it works well. Can't say for sure because I've never had a tank crack from stress is many, many years of fish keeping. I figure it can't hurt, though. edit:more detail

Fan $74:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YXDQZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fan speed controller $21:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EVYGPJQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ducting, $16:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCES1TI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bowl that I used for a hood, $24:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYR0ZF4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plus various bits of Home Depot screws, chains, eyelets, hose clamps and a stainless toilet flange to connect the bowl to the duct.

Sure:

• 4 Buckets from Lowe's
  
• Morsen 216W (55W) Grow light
  
• LED 5050 Strip w/ Power Supply
  
• Timer
  
• Carbon air filter
  
• 4" Inline Fan
  
  
• 4" Ducting
  
• Mylar blankets
  
• A roll of foil tape, roll of black duct tape, and a small bottle of tacky glue from Lowe's
  
• 1 1/4" wood screws from Lowe's
  
• An 80mm PC fan I had from before
  

Its this Aube relay with built in 24V transformer, so I think it has both the relay and the transformer? I had 2 black wires and 2 red wires coming out of the wall, and he connected those somehow to the black blue and red wires on the relay part. He says he followed the diagrams that came with the relay/transformer and did it however they say it should be done, but yeah I won't know how he did it unless I open it back up and pull it all out. Clearly something isn't right since there's no voltage going to the wires that have been added to the knobs on the transformer part.

THANK YOU. I covered the floor in this; would this be enough: https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481129537&sr=8-2&keywords=insulation

Also, this looks like a good forced exchange heater?

http://www.themaddogs.com/Equipment/Cabin/Espar/Espar_Eberspacher_Airtronic_D4%20diesel_air_%20heater.htm

Really? I'm on mobile but it's showing there . I'll just repost on your comment just in case.
Fan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F6BL11U/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_11?colid=2XHLEJUA6N9AQ&coliid=INJZA8XHNGF94
Filter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HT0GZ8/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_12?colid=2XHLEJUA6N9AQ&coliid=I4RUWHOCF7T3S

I use this 530 CFM fan to ventilate my two rooms totaling ~175 Sq ft. Yes, it's quiet enough now that it is rubber mounted (don't mount these suckers right to a rafter. Vibration echos through the whole house).

People have been using these Aube relays successfully:
http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

This is my idea buy this unit

Black + Decker BPACT10WT Portable Air Conditioner, 10,000 BTU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLPUWG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rhgmDbH3D8P2D

Run a duct into my tent from my AC unit
iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Aluminum Foil Vent with 2 Clamps, Ducting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPE3XHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fjgmDbSBGP211

Then eventually connect both into one duct and vent out my window
Ideal-Air 736185 Branch, 4x4x4 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JLA4PE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3jgmDb3R218GH

So something like that? To vent cold air into my tent?

There are radiant wall panels you might consider. I don't have personal experience with them. Apparently in-wall or in-ceiling radiant heat is a thing, too.

Not officially supported, but you can use Nest and Ecobee with a transformer and relay, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C

I made myself a Reflectix sleeping pad when I first got my hammock. Reflectix is basically two layers of bubble wrap sandwiched between two layers of Mylar/space blankets. It helps, and helps quite a bit—you might even get away with on a warm summer night—but it's nothing compared to even a cheap, low-quality underquilt.

I'd say bring the space blanket since they're so cheap and light, but there's a reason everyone has/recommends underquilts. You can't skip it, as I learned firsthand.

Here's my [Speed controller for fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI2RS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) This was definitely overkill, I just didn't trust cheaper voltage regulators, plus I can and have used it for other things. Pretty well made, works great, it was only like $70-$80 when I got it though.

This was my other option, but obviously I can't vouch for it.

EDIT: I'm not an electrician so I may have been unnecessarily worried, and even now I am not 100% clear with all the mixed reviews and info around fans and speed controllers.

I know the feeling of being too cold to work on stuff--I used to work in a home office that was FREEZING. I just got this awesome heater on Amazon that takes up no space and is actually quite effective in heating up a room. Might be worth the investment if you plan on working there the rest of the winter? It uses so little wattage you can even leave it on all the time so you don't have to wait for the room to heat up to work.

http://www.amazon.com/Econo-Heat-0603-E-Heater-White/dp/B005DKN20W

You could probably get a nicer look by using this Bubble Pack Insulation

Ventech is cheaper and better quality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WW4H8XY/ref=sxts2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483198392&sr=2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

Hm that makes sense. I got the one that's recommended in the starter guides. this one

The duct work isn't very long. Only a few feet after the fan. I'd rather not extend it much for space reasons, and also I think it would reduce air flow to have more length.

These industrial types of set ups are way better/cheaper/more efficient than the ones made for consumers.

Link

put hepa on the intake and carbon on the output.

Oversize the filters

Like /u/blackboard mentioned, purchase a carbon filter (4" or 6" depending on size of your setup/plant total) and also get the matching duct (4" duct for 4" filter and vice versa). Also, pick up an inline-fan. A simple and effective way to set it up is to connect fan to the filter, then connect the duct to the fan so it sucks the air through the filter and through the duct, out of the tent. If you have a grow light that is set up to be cooled, just connect the light to be in between the filter and the fan. Make sure you hang or attach the carbon filter higher up in you tent/box, so it removes the hot air. Vent the duct (which is blowing out the warm/stinky air to the outdoors if possible. You can have another inline-fan/duct setup blowing into the tent, but it is not necessary. Just make sure that you have a hole or small opening on the lower, opposite side of your box for fresh air to get sucked in to replace the hot stinky air that your blowing out through the filter/fan/duct.



If that doesn't make sense to you, I can PM you a picture of my current setup.

One thing that can help with doors and some windows is weatherstripping (if yours is old or missing). It goes all around the edges of a door jamb and is compressed when the door is closed, forming a (nearly) air tight seal.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-R734H-Sponge-16-Inch/dp/B0000CBIFD/ref=lp_495372_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415815640&sr=1-1

You may need a different size than that.

Install the following, then you can choose the smart thermostat of choice:

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uITLBbZFN4PYX

I would try to shade the area, insulate the bucket and then add an Ice Probe. Check out the amazon links. I use the Ice Probe and double insulated my 5-gal bucket.

https://www.amazon.com/IceProbe-Thermoelectric-Aquarium-Chiller/dp/B001JSVLBO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=iceprobe&qid=1570125812&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-ubble-Pack-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reflectix&qid=1570126123&s=gateway&sr=8-1 (cheaper at Home Depot)

530 cfm $90
440 cfm $73
Just search inline fan

If you look at the last 2 images here, you can see my filter and setup here http://imgur.com/a/TUFMf

This is the exact fan/filter that I got http://www.amazon.com/iPower-GLFANXINL6FILT6MD25C-6-Inch-25-Feet-Ducting/dp/B00DIIPTHA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450463821&sr=8-5&keywords=carbon+filter+6%22

Also added a fan controller so it wasnt running at 100% all the time http://www.amazon.com/Hydrobuilder-HBVFSC-Variable-Speed-Controller/dp/B00BLOSG7I/ref=pd_sim_86_80?ie=UTF8&dpID=41idj0MShKL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0FBPXDHCDMHF1K8SQ2AR

Weather stripping for sure and then seal the inside with a piece of r10 insulation blanket if you want to be more precise with it

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQSYRO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486162379&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=insulation+blanket&dpPl=1&dpID=41vFYWadUML&ref=plSrch

Mine is simply a flat panel that mounts to the wall, circulates heat via convection.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DKN20W/ref=psdc_510182_t2_B00FRFFC4W

Out of the way (an inch from the wall), while it gets hot to the touch it's not going to burn you if you rest against it, much less catch anything on fire (though, d'uh, don't hang towels/fabric on the damn thing).

Best investment I've made for a bathroom after a high quality toilet. I even have mine on a programmable t-stat so it's warm first thing in the morning for my wife as she's getting ready for work at 6am.

Actually, check the fins on the evaporator coil behind the filter once it thaws. If a lot of them aren't straight, or if they're dirty, that would do it. Even if they don't look dirty, they still could be. It wouldn't hurt to clean them either way. I like this one fit small units like that https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-417175-Nu-Calgon-Evap/dp/B00DM8KQ3I

You could also try applying some reflective film like this on your windows, particularly any that face south.

When I was a student, I used to live in a downstairs room that was always freezing (unlike the rest of the house). I ended up putting some temporary window sheets up to fake double-glazing (http://www.amazon.com/Gila-LES361-Control-Residential-Platinum/dp/B000KKM8EG Like that, your local DIY store would likely have some and I've seen people DIY it with household stuff like clingfilm).

The other thing to do is make sure all the drafts are sealed up - fill in any gaps around the window frame with some caulk or similar, and if you can change the curtains, opt for something much heavier (like a velvet or heavy-lined) to act as a draft excluder - I had these ugly red velvet curtains in that house that I basically kept closed all winter.

http://www.selleys.com/home-improvement/living-room-renovation/filling-gaps-and-prevent-draughts/

P.S. There's some cute draft excluders on etsy for along windowsils and bottoms of doors: https://www.etsy.com/listing/218215925/chevron-door-stopper-draft-dodger

I think you are looking for something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YbI0Bb3RN8WPX

The only 260 cfm fans I can find are duct boosters. Do you have something like this

You may want to look it into some bubble wrap insulation for your res as well. It works miracles for keeping water temps down. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apis_1491534817806

A speed controller wouldn't really work for that duct booster. It's technically a duct booster and no where near the power of an actual inline fan. So it can be argued that duct booster you linked won't be strong enough to pull through a carbon filter and exhaust the heat in a timely manner. But going by the math and accounting for the carbon filter resistance you'll be able to change the air at the rate needed.

Temperatures is a different story though. As I don't know what the ambient temps run or how hot those mars leds run you're better off just getting http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-IF6-Inline-Duct-Fan/dp/B004YXDQZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1457749739&sr=1-1&keywords=ventech+inline+fan and a fan speed controller and turn that down. It's better to get a stronger fan and turn it down rather than to get a low CFM fan find yourself unable to manage the temps and need something stronger.

As far as the tent is concerned those cheapo tents tend to be a big hit or miss when it comes to light leak and construction. But it looks as if most of the people on here have cheapo tents with no problems. Nothing a bit of duck tape can't solve ^_^

Lots of people put Reflectix in their windows in warm areas. It will unfortunately block out all the sunlight but it will help greatly in making the interior temperature tolerable.

Panasonic FV-20NLF1 WhisperLine 240 CFM In-Line Fan, 6-Inch Duct https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUIX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kaTBzbHS3FBBZ

Once again, it's Overkill.

you could with something like this aube relay. That gives the necessary 24v transformer to be able to use a normal hvac thermostat like the nest. But unless you wire multiple relays together, and lose you zones, you would need nests for each zone which is big $$$.

Depends on your light. If you can't put your hand on it for 3 seconds or so, it's too hot to be real close to a mylar blanket. This is better. Reflectix ST16025 Staple Tab Insulation 16 Inch x 25 ft Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RYFjzbYX2ARWY

Infinity Fan
I bought this and it’s surprisingly quite. At full speed it’s about as loud a old microwave running.

You may be fine with that fan, you just need to monitor the air flow you are getting with it. If your not feeling much air exit out of your filter or if the enclosure doesn't seem to have any negative pressure you may want to upgrade. Something like this: VenTech IF4 4" Inline Duct Fan 190 CFM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KMOJPK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_u3rDxbFJWWDD1

I use the 6" version

Got it! So I'll go for the first link. What about the air pump I was looking at this

AC Infinity CLOUDLINE S4, Quiet 4" Inline Duct Fan with Speed Controller - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JB292JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jgXnDbQ20EA3X

Think it's worth spending a lot more on the humidity controller and shit or for the next size up?

Also since smell is a priority think it's worth getting this over a standard carbon filter?

Phresh Filter 701003 Inline Filter, 4 in x 12 in | 200 CFM
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZU6IUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IhXnDbW4GJB7Q

No, pretty quiet IMO. It's no louder then the inline pump. I use this fan. It required a little bit of silicon to plug places where water was dripping out. I did drill a hole in the bottom of the fan to let any resting water out.

Would something like this work? The other one seems really expensive for such limited functionality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016J2CYQ/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=28ZG1R5QKY6G4486AE4A&dpPl=1&dpID=413zl3TCkhL

Haven't taken the old ones down yet, just spoke with the condo manager...

You’re looking for something like this. It is essentially a 240V relay with a 24V control circuit, which allows you to switch a line-volt heater using a low-voltage thermostat. Then you can choose any thermostat you like.

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/

I don’t have any direct experience with it unfortunately, but maybe this will at least give you a place to start.

Get a baseboard heater transformer/relay such as an Aube RC840T-240.

If you can get an IOT device to provide a basic dry relay closure (Insteon 2450 looks good), and can wire the relay transformer into your appliance or its receptacle, it should work.

It looks like the Insteon 2477SA1 might be able to control your 240V load, but still needs wired in.

Reflectix would probably work in this scenario as well, not sure how expensive those sun reflectors are.

This is bad ass. Doesn't use much space to boot. Model of your fan and filter?

Edit: Is this your fan? http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-Inline-Exhaust-Ventilation-Blower/dp/B005KMOJPK

I run my filter blower at night that vents the light out via a cool tube, but I only run the intake during the light hours. I use two of these blowers in the link below, once set for intake and the other does outake

http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-IF4-Inline-Duct-Fan/dp/B005KMOJPK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398191541&sr=8-1&keywords=4+inch+blower+fan

Eh, I'll probably catch flak for this but I hate pie cuts. I think it makes charge piping look like dryer duct, and I'd much rather go polished or powdercoated.

This is what you want:
https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538780090&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=line+thermostat+programmable&dpPl=1&dpID=413zl3TCkhL&ref=plSrch

Filter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KMETHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N39fybPBJK5ZG

Exhaust Fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005KMOJPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z49fyb4P1CRJ1

Intake Fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OXMZ3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j59fybSC6H4BM

LED:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RWYCRB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f69fyb5RCSWEH

Bucket Adapter for PC Fans:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/HighTech3D?ref=pr_shop_more


The rest were miscellaneous things I picked up at home depot. The links above are the main parts.

As an example for a smallish grow:

2 x 2 x 4 Tent: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074H5DKPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

Lights: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0752CL6KJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

Exhaust fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C82SYZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

Ducting: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EPE3XHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00

Timer: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00

Total cost: ~270 CAD

You're talking about moving air in & out of your cabinet.
This is inadequate.
You need to be talking about moving air in & out of the closet.

Three options:

Bathroom Exhaust Fan

Stupid bathroom exhaust fan sucks hot air out of closet and dumps it into the plenum space above the ceiling tiles.
Totally Ghetto.
Highly recommend you talk to building HVAC team, and perhaps dump exhaust into an HVAC return air duct.


APC ACF301

That cooling fan gets installed in the wall of your wiring closet.
When heat inside closet exceeds X then the fans kick on to pull the hot air out, and dump it in the hallway.
This is not an elegant solution - but it DOES work, up to a certain number of BTUs.


MovinCool Portable AC

These can run 24x7x365 for years. Just be sure to install a permanent drain for condensate water.
PLEASE perform basic annual maintenance (remove & wash or replace the intake air filters & inspect the drainage tubes for fungal growth).
They will require hot air exhaust either to the ceiling plenum, or to an HVAC return duct.

Weather strip

Window Sealing Kit

Foam Strip

Cover all windows with this https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-ST16025-Staple-Insulation-Inch/dp/B000BQSYRO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501096818&sr=8-2&keywords=reflectix
use red Stucco tape to cover the exterior windows. It keeps a lot of heat out.

They do make them, they're called in-line vent fans.

Here is an example of a combination relay & transformer that would work:

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qSldAb96GGBRE

Step 1. If it is the cheapie electric baseboard heat, you most likely have a 120v or 240v thermostat. Find out which.

Step 2. You'll need this for 240 (or if you can find one to mount in a switch box, that would be better): http://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31RasVuVDpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K9Z0QT4F1AHDX7W166G

Or this for 120v: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RC840T-120-Electromechanical-Relay-Built/dp/B00D5YLY2G/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41c-k5UMUgL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1K9Z0QT4F1AHDX7W166G

Step 3. Use the above relay to hook up an Insteon Thermostat.

Yes.......BUT


Where in the world are you located?

What type of system?


Here is a 240v to 24v transformer & relay that lets you control 240v systems from a 24v thermostat(nest)

Aube RC840T-240 On/Off Switching Electric Heating Relay with Built-in 24 V Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eSa4DbEXQ2SG7

You're looking for a relay. I used a few of these when I renovated my basement:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MXM1C/

It replaces the built-in rheostat on the baseboard heat, and you then use low-voltage wiring to connect it to a "regular" 24v thermostat.

Use a relay + Nest, Ecobee, etc. Common for controlling line voltage baseboard heaters.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MXM1C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here you go. Don't ask why it has a leather jacket, maybe it's in a gang?