(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best sewing products

I started out with dog collars so a few specific things you will want. If you don't want to buy a leather strap cutter, you can make due with a framing square, adjustable T square, or just a long ruler, its a measure 10x scenario but its not too bad. You will want a really sharp knife for cutting, I use my skiving knife because I can sharpen it, but I have used exacto knives and a rotary cutter and done a decent job with them.

You will want punches! Hole punches are obvious for the holes the buckle will use, but even the ends of the strap a punch can save you a lot of time and effort. Doing curved cuts is trickier than it seems and when there is a matching side to emphasize imperfections and stitching to further complicate things, being able to just use a punch and have it right the first time is fantastic.

As for hardware, get Welded D rings. They are a little more expensive but I'd rather not have a Dring bend and a dog get loose. Like $14 on amazon for 50 of them. I used these buckles was the cheapest I could find that style.

Pricking irons/Diamond Chisels are a must have, they just make the long runs on collars so much easier. That and a good thread and needles. I tried crap thread and tiger thread...I now buy only tiger thread. Its just so much easier to work with and looks a lot better.

here is one of the ones I did for my girlfriends dog
https://imgur.com/a/2y23Rdr


Post I made earlier for someone else, I would invest in:

• diamond awl like this
  
• diamond chisel(only really need the 2 prong and 5-6 prong) I use these
  
• good braided poly thread like this
  
• good needles John James
  
• Good skiving knife this ones a good starter
  
• Wing dividers I bought these
  
• Edge beveler Like this
  
• You'll also want a leather condition(neatsfoot oil is what I use) and a finisher(resolene, beeswax, snoseal, etc)
  
• Contact cement(Dap weldwood) helps keep things together before you sew them
  
• Dye if you want certain colors
  
  For ~$100 bucks investment and you've got most of the stuff you'll need to make good looking stuff, then you just need to buy leather. I highly recommend picking a project, watching some videos on it and then if you need a new tool for it thats when you buy it. My biggest mistake thus far is thinking I could bypass buying a hole punch, the quality using a punch is so much higher than trying to do it by hand.
  
  As for skills. Look up Saddle stitching, easy to learn and hard to master. With those chisels it makes it really easy to get a good looking product with saddle stitching. Wetforming leather, helps make those sheaths, holsters, etc pop out at you. I like watching Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on youtube, informative and you pick up little tips here and there.
  
  You'll also need to learn to keep your knife sharp! So project 1 if you invest is make a strop and get some jewlers rouge to polish that edge to a razor! If you're REALLY in a pinch and have no leather you can use the rouge on cardboard but it does not hold up well.

Some of these are probably the same ones you found (don't know for sure since you didn't include links to the ones you already saw), but I found several that would be cool to encourage a kid to read.

There's this one that says "I Love Books"

Then this one that says the same thing but it's a different design

This one that's just a book that says "Reading" on it

Another form of "I Love Books"

A patch that has the ABC's on a book

Yet another form of "I Love Books", but this one has a really cute bookworm on it

A cute bee that is encouraging kids to "Be A Reader"

A funny one that encourages kids to stay up past their bedtime to read books

One that just has a picture and the word bookworm

One that's literally just books and an apple

Yet ANOTHER form of I Love Books they seriously seem to be everywhere

This one asks people to "Tell Me A Story"

This one is for a kid who Loves Story Time

This one says that the kid would Rather Be Reading

And, finally, a couple of the Seven Dwarves reading what is apparently a book of fairy tales.

I can probably find more suggestions, but these are the ones I already had bookmarked (I give them out to kids at church to encourage them to read more). If you need me to find others, just let me know!

Edit: forgot to mention that you can attach them to a backpack, belt bag, maybe a canvas bag, or his favourite jacket or pants or something. You can also ask him where he wants to put it. Kids are really good about choosing where they want to display something, and I can guarantee that he'll choose something he's proud to show it off on.

First: get yourself a nice big pad of 18x24 newsprint, some charcoal (a mix of soft vine charcoal and compressed will give you nice range of values and edges to draw with) a kneaded eraser to pull out highlights and correct mistakes, and a chamois cloth (get it really nice and dirty with charcoal) for laying down smooth tones. It's messy, it's weird, but it gives you much more range than a pencil and costs almost nothing. Working larger and sitting further away will help you to form the habit of drawing from the shoulder for smoother line quality. You want this, especially while you're in the early learning stages. Your first step is to teach your body and eyes what to draw, not how to draw X Y or Z or even how to tattoo. That comes much later, and I'm glad to see you already knew that.

Before you jump into the figure focus on basic geometric forms - basic white cubes, cylinders, cones, spheres, etc. Draw them from life, not photographs or imagination. Something like this would be great. I know, they suck - every student I've ever had has let me know, but now they're off making Big Hero 6, League of Legends, and many other awesome projects and would tell you the same. These basic forms help you by reducing variables so you can focus on how light wraps around the form. The difference between a highlight, form light, form shadow, a core shadow, reflected light, and a cast shadow is difficult to pick out when you're dealing with lots of subtle plane changes. This is where you learn the basics of value control to distinguish between different levels of light. Lay down these values with masses, not individual lines. It's kinda half-way between drawing and painting with a broad brush by using the side of the charcoal rather than just the tip.

Certain types of light/shadow produce different edge qualities, pay attention to how hard or soft transitions are from light to dark and think about the physics behind it to understand why - pinning up some light fabric on the wall with a single light off to the side is a fantastic way to see this - the cloth catches the light, creating form and cast shadows as the light wraps around the folds and reflects a little light back onto nearby surfaces.

The goal here is to understand how to represent the light accurately to describe the form (that is all you're doing as an artist- recreating light to trick the eye, it doesn't matter what the subject is) When you're feeling confident with this (and probably filled up 1-3 of those newsprint pads) move on to still life set ups and introduce some more complex forms and add a dash of color (1-2 at a time, keep it simple) Feel free to start playing with the figure, but you'll be hard pressed to find anything more complex and subtle to attempt. Without a teacher present, Andrew Loomis books will be an invaluable resource once you get to this stage. They're free online as PDFs for the most part.

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Section 1: Tools

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Note: Just because it is more expensive doesn't mean it is better. You could get by just fine with the "cheaper" options.

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| Tool | Required vs. Optional | Use | Notes | Price & Link |
|:---|:---:|:---|:---|:---:|:---:|
| Tandy Wholesale Membership | O | Allows you to get better pricing at Tandy. | This is definitely optional. Items will cost slightly more without it OR if you have a tax ID you can get the membership with better pricing for free. | $35 / Free|
| Awl Haft | R | The handle which will hold your blade. | This particular haft allows for different blades to be added or removed with ease. | $16 / $35|
| Diamond Awl Blade| R | This is the blade used for piercing the holes in your projects.| This goes in the awl haft.| $4.80 / $28
| Channel Groover | R | Used to measure and gouge channels where your thread will lay. | Some say gouging a channel is optional however I find it to be required. It further protects your thread from damage. | $16 / $80 |
| Overstitch Wheel | R | Marks where you will punch your holes. | This particular overstitch wheel is a few dollars more than the versions that only offer one wheel. | $24 / $225 |
| Edge Beveler | R | Used to bevel and round off the edges of your project prior to burnishing. | Sizes vary. The smaller the number, the smaller the round edge. | $12 / $55 |
| Adhesive Glue | O | Used to hold your pieces of leather together prior to piercing the holes. | Some people prefer binder clips instead of glue. I've found that the clips end up making marks on my projects so I've always stuck with glue. | $6 / $30 |
| Gum Tragacanth | R | Used as a burnishing agent for your edges.| Some people use saddle soap. I prefer gum trag.| $6.40 / $21|
| Harness Needles | R | Used in combination with the thread for your projects. | Avoid the stitching needles. They break very easily.| $5.99 / $7.50 |
| Xacto Blade | R | Used for cutting projects. | You may have one of these at home already. Be ready to have replacement blades handy ($21.95) | $2.49 / $50 |
| Self-Healing Cutting Mat | R | Used for cutting your leather projects.| You may have one of these at home already. If so, you can obviously use that.| $14.73 / $50.80 |
| Cork-backed Ruler| R | Used for cutting straight lines.| I highly recommend the cork-backed version. It will save from accidental cuts/slips.| $4.80 / $14 |
| Burnishing Tool | R | Used in combination with the gum tragacanth to get a good burnish.| A good piece of canvas can be used as well. | $8.99 / $80 + $99|
| Sanding Tool| O | Used to sand down the edges prior to burnishing.| You might have sandpaper at home. Feel free to use that too.| $7.30 / $0 with dremel|
| Steel Square | O | Used for creating nice, even squares/rectangles for projects. | Learn to use this correctly!| $8 / $14|
| Thread Cutters | O | Use these for cutting your thread in the hard to reach places without running the risk of damaging your project. | Scissors work for cutting thread and the xacto blade can work for cutting thread inside your projects -- just be careful! | $3.95 / $39 |
| Maul | O | Used for end punches, rivets, snaps, chisels, or irons. | You really only need one of these if you are planning on doing any of the activities mentioned previously. | $20 / $55 |
| Pricking Iron/Chisel | O | Use these to mark or punch your holes instead of an overstitch wheel and awl. I prefer using the overstitch wheel and awl but others like the irons/chisels. | There is a big difference between irons vs. chisels, diamond vs. lacing. They all produce different results. Definitely ask before purchasing! The ones I linked are very different.| $12 / $259|
| Creaser | O | Used for decorative creases on things like card slots. | Definitely optional and definitely personal preference. | $14.40 / $72 |
| Wax | O | Used for burnishing. Gives the edges a nice seal. | The $10 is my top secret wax I use. I bought a bunch on sale for $5 and it is fantastic. | $4 / $10|

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First I'll list what I bought and then I'll discuss what I have or what I'd have done differently.

Not listed are an xacto blade/utility knife, cork-backed ruler, and steel square. These were purchased at Harbor Freight.

Awl Haft

Diamond Awl Blade

The awl haft and diamond blade (E42) are great. I like the combo I bought. The handle has a chuck instead of some I saw which need the blade pressed in to the chuck.

Channel Groover

The channel groover I bought is nice. The chuck, similar to the awl haft, is very convenient for quick adjustments.

Overstitch Wheel

Doing it again, I probably would have bought some diamond chisels over the overstitch wheel, but so far it's worked alright. I will be buying the chisels eventually.

Edge Beveling Kit

I had no idea what edge beveler to buy with so many sizes and never having touched leather, so I'm really happy with the one I bought. It comes with 5 sizes.

Harness Needles

I bought 3 sizes of harness needles. Probably overkill but they were $3 a pack and I didn't know what size I needed. I've been using the medium ones and they are working well with the thread I got.

Cutting Mat

The cutting mat is nice. It's a bit thicker than the ones I found locally at Michaels.

Lacing Pony

The lacing pony is probably my biggest regret that I was forced to buy. I don't have access to any woodworking tools so I was stuck purchasing one. I should have had a coworker do it for me in his shop at 1/5 of the cost. It comes in two pieces and the holes in mine didn't line up at all. I ended up having to drill a hole for the screw.

Art of Hand Sewing

The book comes highly recommended from everyone. I've flipped through it but I learned my basic technique from youtube videos. As I try to do more I'm sure I'll reference it.

Thread

I bought .035" waxed cord from Maine Thread. I have nothing to compare it to but it seems to work okay.

Leather

And finally the leather. I'm still not sure if I made the right purchase, although buying a shoulder of leather seems to be a popular beginner suggestion. Already I'd like to have more variety, but I think I'm going to a Tandy Leather this weekend so maybe I'll pick up some other random stuff.

Things I didn't buy that I should have:

Contact Cement

Gum Trag

Burnishing Tool

Hammer/Maul

Leather finish


I actually made a decent stitch I was happy with on my second try. I didn't buy these items because I planned on doing lots of practice on scraps but because I feel good about my initial work I'd like to try to make something. Without those few items I'm kinda stuck for the moment.

I've actually made starter kit recommendations for folks before. For years I used a Brother SE 400 which is available new on amazon for less than $300:
https://www.amazon.com/Brother-SE400-Combination-Computerized-Embroidery/dp/B003AVMZA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487700696&sr=8-1&keywords=brother+se400

it will even dip below that once in a while - i've seen it for as low as $279 before!

The drawbacks to this machine are:

you cannot go back and fix a thing if something goes wrong. do not put anything you love in this machine. (i've had my viking eat things too, so maybe that's a good rule for all home/hobby embroidery machines...)

The size limit is 4x4, it cannot take any larger hoops


DST is not an issue because there are many free programs that will convert them. I like wilcom truesizer: https://www.wilcom.com/en-us/products/truesizerproducts.aspx

The brother takes PES files.

For threads at home, Amazon also has big thread packs that cost less than a dollar per spool:

40 spools: https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Embroidery-Beautiful-Babylock-Husqvarna/dp/B0035DBUPS/ref=sr_1_5?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1487700876&sr=1-5&keywords=embroidery+thread

63 spools: https://www.amazon.com/Brother-Colors-Embroidery-Machine-Thread/dp/B005GYJZMY/ref=sr_1_8?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1487700876&sr=1-8&keywords=embroidery+thread

260 spools: https://www.amazon.com/Embroidex-Polyester-Spools-Embroidery-Machine/dp/B003ZSD5EC/ref=sr_1_19?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1487700876&sr=1-19&keywords=embroidery+thread (i have this one, it's the best deal and you get so many colors!)


I also buy these pre-wound bobbins for it because embroidery sure eats these up: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JJSX1Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally, i like the pre-cut cutaway stabilizer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NX5OQ4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope that helps! It's a nice little machine and doubles as a regular sewing machine with a few fun stitches.

Have you checked out pintrest? They have a lot of great ideas on there. I like those string art projects they look pretty nice and seem easy enough to do while personalizing everything. With the string/yarn you could also make your own dream catchers, plant holders, etc and string is relatively cheap if you buy it with coupons and look for deals.

This pack on amazon comes with 105 skeins of string for $13. Wood + the little pins can be bought for cheap at the craft store and I've seen some supplies that would suit it at the dollar store as well.

I like coloring in adult coloring books, it helps calm me down when I feel like I am starting to get stressed out.

I'm not really "experienced," but I've made a couple. As far as I know, the best way to figure out how much foamcore you'll need is to plan out your insert before you start. Draw out all the pieces (with measurements), then figure out how they'll be laid out on the size of foamcore you can get, then add some extra in case you screw up (which, if you're anything like me, you will... several times).

As for tools - a utility knife with replaceable blades (and a whole lot of replacement blades), a self-healing cutting mat, an adjustable square, a metal ruler, some good glue, and something to help hold everything together (pins and/or ratchet clamps) are all good things to have on hand.

Boo_hiss is probably right but if the machine has a couple of 1/4" threaded holes in the bottom, it can be mounted. Whether it would fit in a vintage cabinet depends on the depth of the cabinet. I got a vintage cabinet to put my serger in but the serger is way too fat to make the swing so I just sit it on top for now while I plot my solution. What I would love to do is use one of these lift mechanisms but its too pricey for me. http://smile.amazon.com/Rockler-Sewing-Machine-Lift-Mechanism/dp/B001DT579Q/ref=pd_sbs_hg_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0S1CR7BFD8EDJNYTB4PQ
Let us know if you come up with anything, I'm sure lots of people would love it.

I bought EZ Quilting Template Plastic 12x18 (Thin) from my local Ben Franklin Crafts Store for about $3-4. I bought it mainly to cut out glare and haven't used it much for writing but it does seem to add some friction. You would need to cut it to size & find a way to attach if needed.


Search 073077700517 will hopefully find a suitable local vendor for you.

else...

AMAZON x1 $1.49+$7 shipping : Wrights 670051 Plastic Quilt Template

OR

AMAZON x6 $14.99 Free Shipping Bundle of EZ International Quilting by Wrights Blank Plastic Template Sheets, 12in x 18in (6 Sheets)

 

video demonstrating its use - I just wish he'd used a darker background to highlight the anti-glare reduction better.

AFAIK yes, but the danger is that they can rip and leave little pieces in your extract if you don't notice.

I use FEP for storage. It's not safe for pressing but you can't tear it at all. They are clear like glass and reusable if you wipe them down with alcohol. They don't fold well, that's the only caveat I can think of. Here is some info from Terp Proof on FEP. They are much smarter than me and are pretty responsive via their chat function if you have questions.
I think they only sell by x1000 though so I ended up buying mine on Amazon through a company called The Press Club. Very good quality, I recommend.

Hrm. I use Reynolds parchment for mine and have no issues, but the rosin I have right now is either relatively stable, or very, very stable so sticking isn't an issue. The relatively stable stuff I've seen be difficult on the clear plastic-type papers like these : https://www.amazon.com/Storage-Food-Grade-Transparent-Terpene-Resistant/dp/B0799GGQDC. The Reynolds parchment has been way better.

I've used a brightly colored floss, washable markers and this stuff https://www.scarletquince.com/blog/?p=568. I usually use aida cloth and do 10x10 grid. I can't speak to linens or other fabrics.
- For me, markers win for ease of use. I've never had any ghosting of marks or bleeding from the floss (I use DMC floss most of the time) when washing marks away. I like this brand. https://www.amazon.com/LEONIS-Water-Erasable-Marking-78008/dp/B00QTIBOS4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1G8HLG2TTLIQ4&keywords=washable+fabric+markers+for+sewing&qid=1574460816&sprefix=washable+fabr%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-4.
- Floss can be hard to remove cleanly. I don't love having to use tweezers and potentially messing up my stitches.
- I haven't used the monofilament on any extensive projects but plan to on my next project. I am ordering some 8 lb. red monofilament from Amazon to try, as it is more reasonably priced than the branded Easy Count stuff.

Hope this helps.

I have one of those scales and it’s a piece of crap. I don’t trust it’s body fat estimates at all. If I have some carbs (usually from beer) I’ll put on a kilo or 2 of water and it disappears with a day or 2. The scales think this is mostly fat.

I’ve lost about 70lbs of fat over the last 3 years and I’ve had periods where I didn’t know whether I was losing fat or muscle and also gaining fat or muscle (when eating at a surplus). The best thing I did was get a cheap body measuring tape which makes it really easy to take consistent measurements of my body. You can then use the Navy or YMCA body fat calculator to estimate body fat %. From there you can estimate how much fat and lean mass you’re carrying around. I track this in a google sheet and I can see what’s happened each month.

The first 2 months on carnivore (after losing bloat, water weight etc) saw me weight stable but I lost about an inch from my waist. I didn’t care whether it was muscle (my strength actually dropped) or bone or organs that kept my weight stable but I knew I’d lost fat. You’re still early on your journey - get one and take measurements now, record them somewhere (you’ll thank yourself later on). Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Measure-Push-Button-Retract-Ergnomic-Portable/dp/B077Z4DRMS/

If that one is perfect for you, I would just attach shoulder straps to it yourself. Then you can get the perfect bespoke strap with the exact padding you want, attached as well as you want. It's not hard at all to attach a couple swivels for the strap to clip onto. It won't be costly either.

straps

swivels

webbing to attach swivels to bag

heavy duty thread and needles

If you haven't sewn before, this is a super easy low-cost first project and you will end up with the exact laptop case you want.

I make my own. Before we had a sewing machine I used a snap tool I picked up ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01435LTUW/)
to snap piece of fabric together because I didn't have the patience to hand sew them. It was actually pretty effective and cheap all things considered.

Now I sew them. I have experimented with a number of different types and styles but my girls like honeycomb hammocks the best.

The inner layer is more of a challenge, It’s from this pattern- https://m.imgur.com/gallery/kOXYm

I’m sure you could find a video on channels for drawstring, I just shook the down and made a folded edge then sewed it up.

The snaps, I bought a starter kit on amazon, size 20 kamsnaps, really easy installation- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01435LTUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509736223&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kam+snaps&psc=1

Extra length was from another throw I had, used the rest of the throw for a blanket for my pup.

It’s a fun project and a great piece of gear, I’m still learning as I go when it comes to sewing.
I say jump in and go for it.

If you like Amazon shopping i would recommend my basics/essentials that i use:

• a 40 color set of threads to get her started
  
• pre-cut stabilizer
  
  
• my FAVORITE is 144 pre-wound bobbins
  
  
• thread rack if she doesn't already have one
  
  
• extra needles for the machine
  
  
• oh and Definitely these scissors to snip threads without taking the hoop off of the machine.
  
  
• Not sure if she has enough projects already but maybe some things to embroider on? You can buy a pack of 1 dozen pillow cases on Amazon, hand towels are $3 at Walmart, etc.

Exactly my thoughts. More than likely, this is all water fluctuation. Disheartening to see the numbers increase, because weight is the most popular way to measure progress. That's why I'd always recommend taking body measurements. They sometimes reveal changes that the scale does not (e.g: You did NOT get "bigger" or fatter if you look at body measurement trends) A device like this makes it all the much easier:

https://www.amazon.com/Measure-Push-Button-Retract-Ergnomic-Portable/dp/B077Z4DRMS/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=myotape&qid=1571406074&sr=8-6

I started making friendship bracelets and I would watch documentaries/listening to music. I have to do relaxing activities that require some attention and focus - its hard to just go from 100 to 0 for me. Plus side, you have things that you can give to your friends and you can feel accomplished when you complete it.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Rainbow-Color-Embroidery-Floss/dp/B016HUI756/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1538110547&sr=1-4&keywords=embroidery+thread

Yeah, definitely. I got the Alvin 24"x18" mat and it's $17.66 and Amazon prime. I saw u/pexon had a huge one when he sent me photos of some cable ideas and thought it was perfect for keyboard stuff.

I believe this would be an adorable first badge for your son <3

If he continues his journey into reading, I feel like this would be a great patch after he reads 10 or maybe 25 books!

Can someone explain why this sub seems to like these things?

I am of the opinion one should learn something the analogue way until experimenting with a tablet. For one, I find digital art to be lacking texture and sometimes emotion. People wonder "did this person just put an image into photoshop and trace details?"

I would highly recommend spending $20 mastering these basic shapes under a single light source. One could even use an egg, a marshmallow, a shoebox, etc instead.

A 9 year old could draw an accurate sphere from observation no problem even if they can't yet understand the theory of light and form. By this observational exercise, the theory diagram will be self-evident to your son and intuitive over time. Later, the inverse of these forms (a bowl, the inside of a shoebox) are equally important.

Given this knowledge, your son will be well equipped later on, and perhaps the tablet could be a gift for going to middle/high school.

tldr: IMHO a tablet offers little chance to improve one's art compared to a marshmallow.

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

It looks like the type that had a lift inside. Is the lift still there? If not, you can buy one. Here's one on Amazon, but if you look around, you may be able to find one for a better price: http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Sewing-Machine-Lift-Mechanism/dp/B001DT579Q You're also going to want to look for a "sewing machine insert" for your model. Often they're made of some sort of plexiglass and fit around the machine to give you a flat surface even with the table when your machine is in the upper position on a lift.

Easy Threader Flexible Needle Drawstring replacement and craft tool by schaller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This thing works like a champ. Takes seconds to re-thread drawstrings

I was thinking of creating a drum shade but a good portion of the tutorials that I've found online involve an embroidery/quilting hoop. I haven't been able to find a hoop as large as I need it to go around the entire chandelier so I've ruled that option out.

My current idea has been to use template plastic for the structure and then attach fabric to it. I'm not sure about how I'd get it in that really round shape without some sort of hoop. Any suggestions on how to do that or alternatives?

I'm also trying to keep this a reasonable price since I'm only planning on being in this apartment for about another year. Thanks in advance!

These are the best for threading: Easy Threader Flexible Needle Drawstring replacement and craft tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yRVwyb370W73P

And you can buy cord anywhere, for example: Wrights Drawstring Cord, 1/4-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XNQPTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NSVwybBS56HEX

Their "slim" cut is absolutely huge man, there's no way someone of your size is going to fit properly in it. Like check their shirt dimensions, the difference between a slim and extra slim is 2.5" in both the chest and waist. The super slim is 4.5" slimmer in the waist comparatively.

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I have a vastly different build from you at 5'7" 150 lbs, so much chunkier than you, but I had to get an extra slim fit 15" neck even though my normal neck is 15.5". There are collar extenders you can use so that the neck doesn't choke you out if you do go down a size.

There is a machine made by NEIL that has a very high rating on Amazon, and is priced under $300 (including a rotary paper cutter and 100 button parts). There are some comments by reviewers that already own the Badge-a-Minit machine that claim this machine is much easier to use. According to the manufacturer, this one will work with photo paper - preferably on the thinner side (the Epson Presentation paper I recommended sounds perfect). Either way, both machines will work with regular paper, but the Epson Matte photo paper is non-glossy and recommended for much better image contrast - not to add gloss.

https://www.amazon.com/2-1-Inch-NEIL-Button-Machine/dp/B0042ST1MY/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2AlGSnYif2g

Only real difference between regular sewing and leather/fur sewing us you'll want to use glover needles and a sailors palm, speedy stitcher, or leather thumb cover with a coin in it. These mittens are some of the easiest patterns to trace two identical halves and sew inside out. Best used with glove liners.

They make these button extender things that loop onto the button and give like an extra half inch to work with if you try the 14.5 Try these

I’ve used them before and they work pretty well.

I haven't done it myself, but my father once made a bunch of canvas bags for christmas presents. he bought a sailmaker's palm. It seemed to go pretty well. Not sure what needles/thread he used, but if you look around for canvas/sail making instructions, there seems to be a reasonable amount of that floating around and it might contain what you're looking for.

I use an Olfa Circle Cutter if I want to make perfect circular paint masks. Otherwise, I mostly hand cut my masks for the sake of time.

Olfa Circle Cutter on Amazon

Highly recommend picking up one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI

Buying clothes online based on height/weight is a struggle not worth fighting. Using your real measurements and manufacturer's sizing charts is a much better way to go (you're still at the mercy of their accuracy, though).

If you are flat they kind of serve no purpose they only make whats there appear bigger. I think you would be better suited looking up padded bras under the shirt they can give the impression of breasts.

I bought a cloth tape measure for measuring underbust and overbust and bought the corresponding bras from amazon. Though its a bit different with a wide chest like mine the cup size has to be dramatically reduced, so if you have a wide chest make sure to check out size guides for trans woman.

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485617343&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=cloth+tape+measure&psc=1

In your FAK/ repair kit throw in a couple large pieces of tenacious tape, some duct or gaffer tape, small tube of adhesives (shoe goo and seam grip ), Leukotape, tiny spool of heavy thread, and 3 large needles. UL gear is great and you definitely dont need some ultra strong 1000D codura nylon backpack that weighs 9 lbs on its own, but it is fragile and a few multiuse repair items can go A LONG WAY.


https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Clear-Contact-Adhesive-Waterproof/dp/B06WGSRM4Z/ref

https://www.amazon.com/BSN-Medical-BEI076168-Leukotape-Sports/dp/B000E59HXC/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Repair-Fabric/dp/B001949Z4I/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Outdoor-adhesive-Tenacious/dp/B000BRDDW4/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Outdoor-Repairs-Needles/dp/B003B678VO/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Upholstery-Naturel-150-Yard-Assorted-Needles/dp/B016C39XW4/ref

https://www.amazon.com/Shoe-5510110-Mini-Adhesive-Pack/dp/B01JCCKWZO/ref

1. this doesn't belong in this sub. Post to /r/cooking.
   
   
2. I already know where this survey is going, and with all do respect, it's not a good idea. There is already an easy way to make a round piece of parchment. Not to mention, the product you are making already exists.

Good observation. This seems to be a standard work matt for doing electronics stuff, I picked mine up at my local hobby shop. Maybe something like this is what your looking for?

Not stupid. I use the Alvin self-healing mat as a mousepad (and general surface to place stuff that I don't want to destroy the walnut desk). This is the 18x24 version but they make lots of sizes (and the other side is a nice green too): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025189VE/

I can't speak specifically for OP's friend, but Something Like This is likely the answer.

Easiest way is to use a threader like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SxncBbAYTH70X

"Plan B" involves undoing a metal hanger, a long shoestring, and piece of masking tape.

A little more compact version and if you're looking instead to add snaps, Kamsnaps are awesome for that.

oh nice, i didnt even look that close, it looks almost exactly like mine (i just spray glued a cloth measuring tape to it.)

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI/

Circle rotary cutter. Easy to use and works well. OLFA Rotary Circle Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CEAMCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BTUCzbJDR0X1Q

I use these and I love them. I've never had a problem. I use wet a washcloth and wipe it off when I'm done. Don't get the pink ones, the disappear too fast.

Pssst. There's a totally unregulated unlicensed, therefore life-threatening, agorist machine called a button maker. It's still free to buy, grab it fast before your government prohibits it!

> the consistency of it makes it almost infuriating to work with. It gets sticky & waxy and its just impossible to make the nuggets or get it off the dab tool.

This won't change the consistency, but I've been transferring all of my shatter to these sheets. They've gone up a bit in price since I got them, you may be able to find something similar for cheaper, but I really like these vs. dealing with parchment paper or jars. It will still stick, but the sheets won't get raggedy over time like parchment does, and you won't be pulling up any material off the paper. The main reason I even found these, is because I went looking for an alternative to silicone or parchment due to all the warnings of those said materials leeching formaldehyde into the terps - see here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dabs/comments/83s2g5/lets_have_a_discussion_about_silicone_wax_paper/

Also, some of the shatter I've gotten from Trulieve has had the more gooey terp saucy consistency, especially the indicas, so I don't think it is just a MuV thing, I think it has something to do with the source material?

Throw your scale in the garbage and save your sanity....

https://www.amazon.com/Measure-Push-Button-Retract-Ergnomic-Portable/dp/B077Z4DRMS/ref=sr_1_40?keywords=body+tape&qid=1570817899&sr=8-40

This maybe? I hope you have prime, you can get it for chump change!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016HUI756/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZXqazbSNCY3NB

Don't know if there's an easy free option but there's this: Easy Threader

Maybe a collar extender would help reduce the contact without making the neck hole too large?

Get a soft measure tape. Your local craft place should have plenty of them.

Or, use a string to map out your path, then measure the string :)

In the spirit of DIY info sharing: The patches were sewn with whip stitches of Coats Extra Strong upholstery thread using a mid-size upholstery needle to punch through the denim. I've been holding things in place with quilting pins while working (and dumped a whole box of them on the floor at one point.)

Also, the Deathspell Omega patch at the top right of the back did not have any red in it when I got it, but I just used a red Sharpie to fill in the flames/tongue and balance the color side-to-side.

My wife loves her table and part of the reason she was cool with it being set up all the time (besides being easy to use) is that there's still plenty of room next to it for the full cutting mat so the machine stays out of the way for that stuff. They make lift mechanisms (https://www.amazon.com/Horn-of-America-Machine-Mechanism/dp/B001DT579Q) but they're not super cheap if you want to go that route.

You know they make things specifically for that purpose. I got this one on Amazon. It did its job remarkably well.

Image.

From original post answer: It’s a sail makers palm. For pushing needles through heavy material

https://www.amazon.com/Wm-Smith-Son-Adjustable-Sailmakers/dp/B00NB1DAUM

Looks like a cutting mat. Think this is it!

I agree with mr.godonut here. Also using a cutting mat has helped me.

You English is fine. If you hadn't of mentioned it I would never had guessed English wasn't your first language.

Is this the kind of thing you are talking about? https://www.amazon.com/2-1-Inch-NEIL-Button-Machine/dp/B0042ST1MY

I use Leonis pens and have never had a problem with permanent stains. They're really short but seem to hold a lot of ink. They're also much cheaper than other brands.

https://www.amazon.com/LEONIS-Water-Erasable-Marking-78008/dp/B00QTIBOS4/

Have you tried marking with a wash-out fabric marker? I use the little Japanese markers to mark quilting lines, should work for hem lines too.

It’s a sail makers palm. For pushing needles through heavy material


https://www.amazon.com/Wm-Smith-Son-Adjustable-Sailmakers/dp/B00NB1DAUM

here you go https://www.amazon.com/KAMsnaps-Starter-Pack-Fastener-Clothing/dp/B01435LTUW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482547523&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+snaps

It's not cheap really, but you could use a circle cutter to make it circular. Just practice on something else before trying to do it.

I use this upholstery kit as the regular thread was prone to twisting and breaking and the needles weren't sharp enough for some places when the denim was double or triple thick.

We bought one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025189VE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0025189VE&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

It's $5 on Amazon

You can use a piece of string and a ruler. You can even print a ruler off assuming you have a printer.

That said tailors tape is relatively inexpensive and can come in handy for taking measurements.

Here's what I bought, comes in larger sizes as well. I soldered on it but its designed for cutting, if you were sloppy enough it might mar the surface.

Don't bother. Unless you are trying, actually setting fire to a wooden countertop with a soldering iron is pretty damn hard. You would have to jam it into a heap of shavings to light a fire with it. If you really want to, you can get a mat like this.

Its this self healing cutting mat

Here is a link to amazon with thread and needles you would need with the felt ornaments. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016HUI756/ref=gbps_img_s-3_0ee9_58fc97de?pf_rd_p=30c09623-33cf-4469-be4c-3e8293ae0ee9&pf_rd_s=slot-3&pf_rd_t=701&pf_rd_i=gb_main&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=GGQ2125H7Y1ZPAAB4JRM

It's listed on the deals list so it might get even lower in price tomorrow or so. As for the machine I'm not sure. I bought it at Walmart. I guess I should find out something soon. I'm going to call and see.

No ar15 pics? Hows that tekmat, is it basically just typical mousepad material?

I use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0025189VE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1393819838&sr=8-3&keywords=alvin+cutting+mat

www.killerbeegi.com

Also, change out all of the flat drawstrings on your gi pants with this.

Stretchy rope


Threader


Drawstring cord

Edit: It looks like Killer Bee also has drawstrings cut to size here.

Buy a cutting mat mate:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025189VE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0025189VE&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

It'll stop your mother/girlfriend/wife from violently murdering you in your sleep for ruining a table.