(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best sports & outdoors hunting & fishing

Enjoy the ride! A couple things I would recommend off the bat as somebody who just started myself a couple weeks ago. A lot of stuff is in the Read First FAQ on the sidebar as well.. but just wanted to share my personal experience!

• Review: Check everything off against the components list to make sure you have everything. In the event you're missing anything, here's the form to request replacements.
  https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSe0bIuInmPgql5fHVWixu7Sh2ZuC5daioNZARFiWbdzwBH44A/viewform
  
  
• Resources: You're going to run into a lot of questions on your first couple playthroughs. The BGG community is excellent at responding to questions (even if they've been asked before). Google will yield good results for most questions but for many of them that have been asked so many times, there's actually a massive Official FAQ I would recommend reading as well. https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1897763/official-faq-game-revs-1-and-2 ... the most confusing part of the game more often than not is around monster movement.. so after you've watched some videos, read some rules, and feel like you really get it.. take this quiz and realize how little you actually understand about how monsters should move. https://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/234575/gloomhaven-rules-quiz ... this will really help hammer home some of the more subtle nuances around movement. Somebody also made this nice flowchart to help as well: https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1F5YcJz4sY8tVP86cH6MS2x4np98RcPXGEM-E6CoNU1g/edit .. also, if you want to avoid all spoilers even for yourself when setting up scenarios, here is a spoiler-free .pdf that prevents you from peeking ahead when prepping rooms, etc. in a scenario: https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/146896/interactive-scenario-pdfs-hidden-sections-pcmacios .. there's also an app on the appstore that provides the same kinda thing that I would recommend. knowing the shit in the upcoming rooms sorta ruins the scenarios for yourself and/or makes them much easier.
  
  
• Dice: Way better for tracking damage on monsters than the little cardboard circles. I would recommend these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011WMA40
  
  
• Preparation: [Editing my post to include this as this is perhaps the most important of all when inviting friends over to play the first time] --- it took me an entire night (solo) to unbox this game and get it even somewhat prepared to play. Beyond that, I spent hours reading rules, FAQs, watching playthroughs, etc. to really have a firm grasp of it to explain to others... and I still found a lot of confusing nuances in a variety of instances that I needed to later clarify. If you're playing this with battle-hardened gamers who are ready for anything then no worries. But if you're like me who is usually making the best of any group of friends that is willing to sit down at a board game table with me.. please use caution and make sure you are well-prepped for this game or else your exciting, highly-anticipated Gloomhaven night will end up being a couple hours of unboxing followed by a lot of discourse over how/where monsters should move and attack.
  
  
• Organization: .. is everything with this game. It's a massive effort to set up and put away, so anything you can do to streamline the process will be a great benefit to you. There's tons of threads out there on different solutions for this.. so find whatever works for you. I use a large Plano box for all the monsters and a small Plano box for all the combat-related pieces (debuff markers, loot tokens, traps, chests, etc.) .. I got them cheap at AC Moore but something like this would work too (https://www.amazon.com/Plano-2-3600-Prolatch-Stowaway-Utility/dp/B00CKIG4NC). Other suggestions include windowed CD envelopes https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXOOL4S to combine the monster card with their deck and standees all in one place or a large tackle box as well.
  https://i.redd.it/13v00whyhvzz.jpg
  
  
• Protection: This game is expensive as hell and you shuffle cards constantly. Protect that shit! https://www.amazon.com/Dephia-Gloomhaven-Sleeves-Standard-European/dp/B0719TN8MB .. these sleeves are perfect but the higher-end option if you're really feeling adventurous would be to get them all laminated at a Staples or other print store.
  
  
• Learning: The rolling solo youtube channel in my opinion is the best for learning how to play. Really clear video of what is happening and he explains everything really well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NEiNg5D0aZk
  
  
• Uberstax: These things are worth their weight in gold as far as I am concerned for this game. You'll see them in the Rolling Solo video.. I got them and my group is obsessed with them.
  https://www.gamestax.com/store/UberStax-c22875148
  
  
• Pimping your Game: Some people have developed some nice apps for tracking things. These include https://www.gloomhavenguild.com/, https://ninjalooter.de/gloomhaven/characters, http://www.gloomhavendungeonmaster.com/ ...also, if you're interested in painting your miniatures there's infinity posts and videos on that so i wont bother here.. but if you're really aggressive and want to replace the monster standees entirely.. check out this thread: https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1726312/replacing-gloomhaven-standees-and-tokens-inexpensi
  
  Have fun!

Alright, sounds good. A very basic recommendation would be a Spyderco Endura, which is a great knife in VG-10 stainless steel. In this steel you should occasionally oil your blade, but that's really it. If that looks too big, the Spyderco Delica is the same knife, essentially, but smaller. Another good Spyderco would be the Spyderco Stretch, also in VG-10. All three of these have strong back locks.

For a slightly more expensive knife, the Spyderco Manix 2 comes in 154CM stainless steel and a hard-use ball bearing lock.

The Benchmade Griptilian comes in 154CM stainless steel and has the second strongest lock on the market on it- the axis lock. There's also a version with a thumb hole instead of a thumb stud.

The Buck TM Vantage Pro comes in S30V stainless steel- one of the better steels available up until the $150 mark- but only costs about $60, and is by far the cheapest knife of its size available in S30V.

The Kershaw Blur in S30V is an amazing assisted knife in good steel. The Kershaw Junk Yard Dog is a great folder in a composite of a couple of good steels.


The Zero Tolerance 0700 is kind of funny looking but a solid knife in S30V.

So far, all of these are within your price range. Now, I'll move up just a bit and double it- you're now looking at a $200 range.


The Manix 2 XL in S30V is one of the strongest folders out there. It's definitely a hard-use knife and will survive a hell of a lot.

The Benchmade 275 Adamas is probably the strongest folder in existence. It's in D2 tool steel and has an incredibly robust axis lock that was beefed up to take more damage.

The Spyderco Caly 3.5 in ZDP-189 steel is an incredible knife in fantastic blade steel. I wish they made more things in it, I really do.

The Spyderco Techno is a bit smaller but will certainty last nonetheless.

The Spyderco Sage in S30V will do it for ya, that's for sure.

I'd love me some Benchmade Emissary in S30V.

The ZT 0350 is a folding tank.

All of these knives will last for whatever you want to do with them. Some are too heavy to reasonably EDC, like the BM Adamas and the ZT 0350, but others, like the BM Griptilian, are perfect EDC knives.

If you have questions on any of the knives I've linked or about their care and maintenance, feel free to ask.

Hi! And welcome!

I like the Gayle Bradley 2 in M4, and the BM Valet in M390, but they are both very expensive to start out with. The Shuffle II is kind of crappy - I'd definitely pass on that one. I have no experience with
the Bartender Defeder, but even the XL version looks too small, as is the Rodie. The Delica and Leek are great knives, and would likely be solid options (their ergonomics are better than their handle lengths suggest, especially the Delica). The CRKT M16 is ok, but it's not great (in my opinion). I've never handled CRKT's Endorser, but it looks like a solid choice.

My best suggestion is a RAT 1 in D2. It's 40 bucks and you get a very well-made knife in D2 (semi stain resistant and will hold an edge for a good long time). The AUS-8 version is good, too, but if you're cutting boxes, the D2 option will stay sharp way longer.

As for some other options, here are some good ones from CRKT:

Foresight - It's big and comfy in-hand, but it's expensive for the materials used (aluminum and AUS-8)

Shenanigan - lighter and cheaper than the Foresight, but with the same blade material (AUS-8)

Outrage - aluminum handle and 8Cr13MoV steel (similar to AUS-8, id est, reasonably stainless, decent toughness, ok-ish edge retention), ball bearing pivot (nice and smooth!)

Ripple - aluminum handle, 8Cr13MoV blade, ball bearing pivot

With these suggestions, it may seem like I'm a shill for CRKT, but I'm not. I'm just a fan of Ken Onion's designs and ergonomics. I also like:

Spyderco Endura - very good stainless steel in a lightweight package, with plenty of handle real estate

Byrd Cara Cara 2 - Spyderco's value brand (basically a cheap Endura with 8Cr13MoV steel instead of the excellent blade steel VG-10)

Spyderco Resilience - big and comfy (G-10 scales with 8Cr13Mov steel), and my daily carry at work

Spyderco Manix 2 - light and medium sized (they also make an XL version), with BD-1 (kinda similar to AUS-8, kinda)

Cold Steel Recon 1 Spear Point - a big knife with lots of grippy G-10 handle space. The CTS XHP steel is the bee's knees, and the Recon 1 is an excellent value, but it may be too expensive as a starting point.

Also, I'm sure some other folks will chime in, too. The guys & gals of /r/knifeclub are pretty knowledgeable and helpful.

Again, my number 1 suggestion is the RAT 1 in D2. It'll be hard to beat interms of construction, ergonomics, and utility.

Happy hunting!

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

• CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).
  
  
• SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.
  
  
• The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.
  
  
• The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.
  
  
• On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.
  
  A few notes here
  
  
• You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).
  
  
• Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.
  
  
• The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."
  
  
  ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.

The kit works, in that you can make quality reloads with it. There are better components but at least you can find out if you enjoy the hobby before sinking too far in. If I were you I would buy the other kit.

With the single stage I found myself working in large batches. I would size and deprime everything that I had in that caliber. Then I would tumble. Next expand the case mouth of everything I had clean. With the hand primer you can sit in a comfortable chair priming and not be at the bench the whole time. I would prime a couple of hundred cases at a time and store them until I was ready to load.

The press is good quality and will last you a long time. If you want to churn out large amounts of ammo you will be upgrading. However, a single stage press is always handy to have around.

The scale is fine. I prefer a digital but that is just me.

The powder measure is the weakest point of the Lee kit. It is stiff and leaks if you are using a fine powder. AA#5 leaked right around the barrel on mine. It did not measure 700X well at all but that was more of a powder size issue. If you are using sphereical powder like CFEpistol or Win231 it meters fine. It was the first part I upgraded. A metal powder dispenser like the hornady is more pleasurable to use and does not leak like the Lee.

The case prep stuff works but if you start loading a lot of rifle rounds you will want to get a better deburring tool quickly.

I'm not sure if this comes with the Lee manual or not. That and the powder funnel are the two parts of my kit I still have. There is a lot of Lee advertising in the manual but there is lots of load data with different powders and projectile types.

If you want to see if you enjoy reloading it is a good place to start.

Its pretty average, i have one so i will share my opinion on it.

The pro of this bag.

This bag is lightweight and the material itself can repel water without the rain cover so i suspect using it on light rain is fine but for heavier rain the cover will be useful.

The belt strap is removable (which i did) and it is comfortable for everyday use.

The bag also have a pocket for a laptop or watter bladder.

The bag have a pocket at the front which have decent organization for your pen and other stuff and it can fit various stuff in it.

Lastly the front vertical zip can fit a lot of stuff as well. But it wont fit large items because of the vertical zip have an awkward opening.

The carry handle is comfortable for carrying the bag.

The bag have decent amount of organization and everyday use.

The bag is solid and uses strong quality materials. Also the back panel really helps with ventilation so you dont sweat buckets while using it

Now here are the cons.

If you fill the main pocket or the vertical main pocket too much, it will render either pocket useless as it will fill the other pocket.

The laptop pocket is very small in my opinion and its tight fit caused some minor frustration when pulling the laptop out. Also if you dont use a laptop, it means that this pocket is a waste of space.

Another problem is that for a bag this size, it only fits approximately a small amount of stuff. The website stated that its a 16L backpack. Which in my personal opinion, its rather smallish.

The bag will not stand upright. This is one of the more frustrating thing for me since the bag cannot stand on itself but its rubber bottom helps it stand against a wall.

And finally, This bag may state that its" covert" or "blend in the urban enviroment" and stuff but in my opinion, this backpack doesmay the exact opposite. It may attract some attention due to its unusual design.

TL; DR: The fail safe pack is a great bag for carrying your everyday essentials such as your laptop and tools but for travelling or hiking or anything that requires filling every bit of space the bag have is not what the fail safe pack can do.

I generally dont recommend this backpack since you can get away with better backpacks for that money.

If you want a backpack with decent organization and carry to work, i suggest checking out the COVRT18 by 5.11 or the popular 5.11 RUSH however the 5.11 rush is not exactly an office backpack but its organization and material is great.

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

Here's my full write-up, but TL;DR I used the file box instead of the accordion folder. It's bigger, but the handle is nice, and I can fit anything I want in it (except the overly large map).

-----------------------

FYI, I slightly modified the YASS Gloomhaven setup to make the storage a little more efficient/intuitive and keep all the standee bottoms in the combat bin.


I go into more detail here for anyone interested.


ORIGINAL POST:


I use a variation of the YASS Gloomhaven setup. You can add an accordion folder if you like to save even more setup/breakdown time. I made a few modifications to the layout to make it more intuitive and keep the standees in the combat box. Here's what my updated layout looks like, and here are the files I used. I also lay my planos flat instead of standing them up as it gives slightly more space at the top to fit the board, etc. FYI, I didn't add the counters label, just left that square blank, but everything else is good to go.


I used a Portable File Box to hold my map tiles, rule books, monster stat cards (although I use Gloomy Companion most of the time), city/road event decks, and unlocked items. There are comparable options on Amazon.


Album of full setup


-----------------------


MATERIALS LIST:

1. 3x Plano 3600 boxes. Size 11" x 7.25" x 1.75".
   
2. 1x Plano 3601 box. Size 11" X 7.25" X 1.13".
   
3. Paper/Card Stock (for printing plano labels)
   
4. Zip-lock bags
   
   Note: the plano 3600 on amazon is a 4 pack. You can find them at Dick's Sporting Goods occaisonally for less $$$: 3600,
   3601
   
   Optional:
   Tape (I didn't use any, but others said they needed it to keep the label on the plano lid)
   The Portable File Box I had laying around
   Amazon File Box with stronger latch
   Hanging File Folders I had laying around
   
   
   -----------------------
   
   
   CHANGES FROM THE ORIGINAL Y.A.S.S.
   Units 1 Box:
   No changes needed.
   
   
   Units 2 Box:
   I moved the Inox Bodyguards to the Boss slot which I shrunk 1 square by moving one large boss to the terrain box. I moved all of the standee bases to the small plano. I used the extra space to move all of the attack modifier decks in here. I store the number tokens and (useless) curse/bless tokens in the 2 remaining slots I opened up.
   
   
   *Small Plano (modifiers/tokens):*
   In the small plano I freed up the whole bottom row by moving the number tokens (which largely go unused) to the terrain box, removing the curse/bless tokens (since they aren't used in the game), and moving the element/HP/EXP markers up one space. I shrunk the single damage markers to a single cell (they fit just fine) to make room. The bottom row now houses the standee bases.
   
   
   Terrain Box:*
   I used the small dividers from the 3601 to separate out the traps, water, totem, treasure sections (this makes them easy to pull out). I shrunk the Doors by a square and added a square for traps using the short dividers to keep all 4 traps separate. Chopping out the divider to make room for the 3-hex objects was a lot more work than I expected, but it was worth it. I added in the 2 bosses to the bottom of that section since they don't fit anywhere else (and will likely only be used once each).
   
   

OK, I think I got this one.

For the younger brother I'd get the Spyderco Delica in one of the bright colors, as it is quite good (cool) looking blade.

It is also pretty light, so will make a great hiking companion.

Isn't the most heavy use knife out there, but will perform when needed.

For the older one I'd get the CTS XHP version of the Cold Steel American Lawman.

It is one of the best hard working blades out there (great for professionals who use their knife as a tool), has a strong lock for additional safety, steel that will hold up and a G10 handle with great grip to it.

Both are well within your budget (compare prices with other sites as well).

Good luck man, hope this helped!

The Smith & Wesson M&P9 is the best overall pistol currently available in my opinion. It had zero gun-caused malfunctions in a 2010 ATF test. And yet it's still very reasonably priced at around $450. This website will help you shop for them online (if you order it online, you'll need to find a local FFL dealer for them to deliver it to and pay a transfer fee). Any Federal HST cartridge should perform well in it. Since that ammo is hard to find, this website will help you find it in stock online (and yes, ordering ammo over the internet and getting it shipped directly to your home is perfectly legal). Here's my favorite inside the waistband holster. And here's my favorite outside the waistband holster. I recommend buying this hearing protection and this hearing protection (yes, you should wear both at the same time. And yes, you'll still be able to hear everything perfectly fine if you put the volume on maximum). Here's the safety glasses that I recommend. And here's the lubrication that I recommend.

Open carry is legal in Virginia. You don't need a permit. You do need a permit to carry concealed.

I just started beading and am focusing on Pokemon, so here's a long winded write up. Like a lot of other people here, I started with presorted packs like this one, which have about about 250 of each color in them. Amazon has three packs like that and I bought one of each to get a big variety of sorted colors. This does not give you enough of each color to sustain you for that long, but they are a good starting point and you'll quickly get the feel for what colors you need the most. You'll want 1000 bead packs of any color you're going to use more than a tiny bit of. The 250 in those sorted packs won't last long.

For Pokemon, I've found the most important colors to keep a big stock of are Black, Dark Grey, Grey, and White. Black is used to outline all of them, the Dark Grey is used for a lot of the details within the sprite, and a lot of Pokemon have White bits which the Grey shades well. There's a lot of Pokemon so I'm using a very big variety of colors beyond those. Their sprites are always shaded, too, so you really need a mix of lighter and darker colors. If you're using Light Blue on a Pokemon's body, you'll probably need Dark Blue to shade it, and so on.

I bought a lot on Amazon at first too, but now that I'm getting more into it I've placed a couple big orders to Bakers'KidsCraftsBooks&More on Ebay. It's a little cheaper for 1000 bead packs than Amazon if you're ordering several, and they carry Hama and Nabbi too. This chart is really helpful for figuring out what Hama and Nabbi colors are sufficiently unique from Perler to make them worth purchasing. The downside is that it's a little slower than Amazon, since you have to wait for a combined invoice before you can pay and get them shipped, but it's the cheapest way I've found to get 1000 bead packs of all bead brands.

The square interlocking 29x29 peg boards that other people have mentioned are big enough to fit most Pokemon and smaller sprites on, and you can always link them up for more room. They come with ironing paper and you can also use parchment paper.

I bought these tweezers too. I don't think they're necessary, but they're easier to use than regular tweezers if I have to remove beads that have already been placed. I usually just use my fingers when initially placing beads.

I like these tackle boxes for storage. They have adjustable compartment sizes, so you can make big compartments to dump your 1000 bead packs into. They close very securely and the compartments are flush with the lid, so beads don't mix if you turn it upside down. The only downside is I have seven of them and already have almost filled them up, haha.

Quick edit: All the Pokemon I've made have been based on the small sprites you see in the party, so that's what my color suggestions are geared to.

You're welcome.

On that, Cold Steel actually has some good products. They are absolutely edgelords and make a lot of "cool factor" cringe stuff, so bear in mind this isn't me playing the contrarian. However the way they became known in the first place was by producing quality blades.

Take a look at their take on the Kukri.

Though it might not look it given the context, a Kukri is a serious blade for actual work (a cross between a hatchet and a large knife, the design done right can split wood, finely cut, chop, and even in some cases pry). Cold Steel is absolutely serious in this offering, and are attempting to compete with authentic handmade Himalayan Imports kurkis from Nepal for serious users. That's bold.

Now personally, I never was a knife guy but I've always liked tools and like to read on outdoorsy stuff.

Me tip: Get a small U.S. made stockman knife to carry. You'll actually get a lot of use out of it without being an edgelord or being disruptive. Learn the names and uses of each blade on it and review a quick page on safe knife usage and rules (e.g. folks think you can pry with a knife, you cannot, and other little safety and usage tidbits; like the right amount of blade for the right task).

Anyway, the one that really put Cold Steel on the map was their G.I. Tanto.. I kept an eye out and picked one up at a pawn shop, one of the original runs, for the original price. The perks were that it had a paracord-wrapped grip (at the time), was carbon steel, indestructible literally (you can even pry with it, split wood, etc.) because it would flex into a U-shape before breaking/deforming; it had a tanto-edge (very strong shape), and originally sold for $15. Its design competitors were often less robust, broke easier with exotic steels, were even heavier, and went for $300+.

Needless to say that became popular for serious users and modding them became a thing. Very serious knives are often extremely basic and the value is subtle in the design; like with Opinel, Ontario Old Hickory series, or Mora--all completely overlooked by the tacticool crowd. The GI Tanto was aimed at the neckbeards, but it found a home with serious usage.

So Cold Steel was and is actually a serious brand, and they're absolutely appealing to neckbeards in their badass lineup. On that, however..

Cold Steel was and is usually the only company making actual swords (an oxymoron). What I mean is, swords are usually low-quality steels, ridiculous designs, are unsharpened and are unusable (will snap, or they don't have actual tangs). Cold steel actually made historically accurate, very durable pieces for a decent price. They wouldn't break on you or pose a danger, and were basically quality built.

Take a look at this katana, $600 with ray skin handles. This isn't for fantasy zombie slayers, but can be decorative or used by a martial artist who skillfully chop those bamboo bundles and learn historic techniques.

Or (video warning) this weeb.

Anyway to that end Cold Steel has very good quality and usable blades, and a "guilty pleasure" lineup that includes US-made, high quality Russian Special Forces shovels and tactical boomerangs. There was one elder I knew who had a nerve disease who needed a cain, and who carried a Cold Steel battle cain because they are good quality, unassuming, and could help him to defend himself (given his inability to run or fight with his hands).

So that's the lowdown on Cold Steel and what they're about.

Hey, we can always try to help you. Ar15.com might have a better forum but that's a semi-closed off website compared to reddit.

Just from the looks of it the Sig Micro Red dot you posted looks a lot like an Aimpoint T2. The Aimpoint is top of the line (think, best you can really purchase) as far as quality is concerned. I'll be the first to admit I don't hear much good or bad about Sig Optics so I won't act like I know how well they hold up.

An entry level red dot would be something like the Holosun for 170$ compared to the 340$ you might pay for the Sig Dot you mentoined earlier.

In my opinion, there's three tiers of optics you can buy. You can buy horrible Chi-Com shit from China that will cost you 35$ total. You can buy entry level optics like the Holosun, Vortex, or Sig (low price to high), or you can go all in and get a top shelf optic like an Aimpoint, Trijicon, or [debatably] an EoTech.

If you're worried about "overpaying" for low quality, but you're willing to spend 350-400, buying an Aimpoint PRO would be right in your realm. You'll receive extremely high quality glass for a decent price. They retain their value over the years, and if your husband knows anything about firearms, he'll be super happy with throwing it on a rifle. (edit: your post history says your husband is familiar with Special Operations Units, so I know he'll have heard of Aimpoint).

Buying him a Holosun or the Sig red dot would be a good alternative, but if you can justify it in your budget, get him something you know he'll be happy with. An Aimpoint is hard to beat. He can save up another 200$, re-sell the PRO and upgrade himself to a Aimpoint Micro if he's looking for that style of optic down the road.

Get it if you feel that your life is worth protecting. You don't need to be paranoid, but it's always good to be prepared. If you're in a situation where you feel that your safety or your life is in danger, use it - it is effective. If that time comes, and I hope it doesn't, you are solely responsible for the outcome of that situation and I'm assuming you want it to work out in your favor. The police won't be there to protect you and people on the street will likely not intervene.

This is the one that I bought for myself and my wife. I'd also recommend getting the practice spray to try it out a few times and feel confident using it.

And disregard the people talking about how safe Seattle is and mocking others for being prepared. Your safety and your preparedness is more important than what they think.

It depends on what you need. I enjoy Schrade knives, and some good options are:

• Schf9. More if a yard tool than a knife. If you need to lug around 1+ pounds of quarter inch steel to make the wilderness your bitch, choose this. I briefly owned one of these before I came to my senses and returned it because it was too much ###KNIFE### for me. Large and heavy.
  
• Schf36. It's compared favorably to a Becker BK2, but it's significantly cheaper. Good balance between size and weight. Overall a solid survival and Bushcraft knife. The Schf36D comes with better handle scales.
  
• Schf42. Hailed as an excellent camp knife and a respectable Bushcraft knife. Lighter (and presumably a bit less beat-the-fuck-out-of-it-able) than the Schf36, but still a nice option.
  
• Schf30. My knife. It's a 5 inch blade with a super comfortable grip, and its weight is a bit over a third of a pound. Good option for a smaller, lightweight survival/Bushcraft knife. Not good if your hands are dummy thicc, as the handle is smallish.
  
  Only thing to look out for: Schrade sheaths aren't super good. They work, but they're not as nice as premium brands.

I have over 500 sets, so my storage gets a little pricey, but I used a combination of five things:

• Akro parts bins for food items, minifig parts, and other small, uncommon pieces.
  
  
• Plano tackle boxes for smaller pieces like 1x3 or 1x2 bricks, that I have in medium quantity, but in all different colors (I sort by color first, then piece type/size)
  
  
• Stack-on boxes because they're large, stackable, dividable, and CHEAP.
  
  and lastly,
  
  
• Ikea SAMLA bins for bigger bricks (2x8's and such), plates, odd pieces, and wheels. They're clear, stackable, and come with lids.
  
  Also crucial to my organization is a label maker, and they have good cheap ones at Costco. You could always just print out pictures of the bricks or a box inventory and use packing tape to seal it on, but I like the label maker look.
  
  My Lego room looks something like this, although nowhere near as many bricks.
  
  My nephew, who only has about 30 sets, uses small Tupperware type containers to sort the pieces, and keeps them in drawers like this, with a plywood table top bolted through the tops of each cabinet so that he can build and move the table around (although his is four cabinets bolted in a square).
  
  We also found some cool ideas here, but went with something else that worked better for our house/lifestyle. :)
  
  
  
  

I currently use the Peltor Sport Tactical 100 ($50) which does have a very basic compression circuit. At least from my personal experience, the noise suppression performance in that model is better and the sound more natural than the Howard Leight Impact Sports, though both pale in comparison to my employer-provided MSA Sordins.

If I was in the market for a new set, I'd probably be looking at:

• 3M Peltor Sport Tactical 300 ($100) - These have a far more sophisticated compression circuit than the 100s;
  
  
• 3M Peltor Sport Tactical 500 ($120) - Effectively the same thing as the 300s but adds Bluetooth capability. While Bluetooth is useless to me at the range, I also use frequently use my earpro for air travel including long international flights, so one less cable in my way would be nice for those situations.
  
  
• MSA Sordin Supreme Pro X ($260) - Newer version of my work-provided set, these do everything quite well but don't have Bluetooth.
  
  Of course, any set of Peltors I might buy would also get 3M camelback gel pads installed, which adds another $40. The difference in comfort with those pads is amazing; with the standard soft plastic pads the Peltors get uncomfortable for me after an hour or two, but with the gel pads I'm fine wearing them for the duration of 10+ hour international flights. The MSA Sordins come with similar gel pads installed, but overall they're $100 more than the Peltor 500 + gel pads.
  
  So yeah, if I were buying today, I would most likely spring for the Peltor Sport Tactical 500 + camelback gel pads for a total of $160. If Bluetooth is not useful for you, you could save $20 by dropping down to the Peltor Sport Tactical 300.
  
  Even just the $50 Peltor 100s should be a significant improvement over the Howard Leight Impact Sports or Peltor RangeGuards.

So this is a month old but I have some insight if you haven't already started a certain path.

I just bought a 300blk upper for my pistol. I have a lot of 223 brass I've saved to and decided to reload for 223 to save some money. Well I'm pretty well into reloading for 223 and decided i would start for 300blk as well. The equipment isn't too expensive (relatively) if you get some Cabela's sales and buy some discounted gift cards. Full equipment with necessary parts will run about $250 after everything (can be cheaper if you buy a bundle pack).

This kit

Digital caliper

Initial 300blk dies

Trimming die

Trimmer

Case lube

That's pretty much it for the equipment side. Then you'll need bullets, powders, and primers.

If you're starting out with 223 brass you may want to cut the case before trimming, but you'll need something to cut it with. If you buy some ammo to shoot and collect the casings you can't use them too.

I have everything I need for 300blk except powder pretty much. I just need to find something to use.

So $250 for equipment and 1k round of 223 reloading will cost me about $175. That's $425 for the first 1k round of just 223. Once I buy stuff for 308, 300blk, and 9mm I'll start saving in much higher quantities per round. I think I'll probably actually start saving money through reloading in a couple months if I shoot as regularly as I'd like. I still buy ammo on sales and all, so I typically don't count brass into my cost for a reloaded round. On average it's about $.18/round (for .223) if I don't find good deals.

Edit: so I just went through and did some calculating. .178cpr for 223, .285cpr for 300blk, and .362cpr for 308 of I get good sales and free shipping.

So I specifically got new toys so they would be new and novel for the flight. New books, especially touch & feels books which my daughter loves, plus a couple all-time favorite books. For snacks, i found online the best idea that worked wonders - use a flat fishing tackle box - the kind that you can add dividers to ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E3C3NU/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Fill with all sorts of snacks, new and old favorites, and its the toddler sampler platter. Worked great and fit easily in my backpack. I just new if I packed a couple of her fave snacks, that would be the day she decided she didn't want them.

We also made sure to arrive at the airport early and left hubby with our stuff at the gate and her and I basically did laps up and down the terminal to burn as much energy as possible. And if you are flying an airline with first come first serve seating (like Southwest) try to sit by a family with a child of similar age. We sat directing in front of a family with a little girl about the same age as ours and after they both woke up from their naps, they entertained each other playing peek a boo around the seats.

I have this UK and US and it's not cheap but it's a great gadget backpack lots of pockets for phones, battery chargers etc.

The Xbox One fits in quite snuggly in the main compartment, I tend to put some foam at the bottom as the bottom isn't that padded and you can fit the power brick and a controller in the front zip pocket. There isn't much room to fit the Kinect also.

I also don't travel on a plane I just use it to transport between home/work/friends but I find it's much better than most rucksacks as it's well padded. I also use one for regular use with my 17" laptop (I have two Rush 24 bags) and really find they are the best for weather proofing, padding and the amount of pockets they have, plus they are super comfortable on the back/shoulders with the padded straps.

I know some say Pelican cases and they are probably more padded, being foam inserts cut out in a metal case, but will be a pain to lug around in my opinion. If you'r flying I would always make sure you take it has carry on to avoid too much bumping around of the Xbox.

ORIGINAL POST (plz upvote this comment to send it to the top. SORRY. posted this from Narwhal and couldn't figure out how to correctly add this description with my pictures)

This gun grip tape does an excellent job of adding grip with no bulk. $11 on Amazon for enough material to do 2-3 phones. I personally like the look but realize it's not for everyone. Looks better in person. Just thought I'd share. I did this on an iPhone 6 two years ago and it left no residue after taking it off with the help of a little Goo-Gone. Thought I'd try it on the matte black iPhone 7. Here's a video someone else put up of what it looks like on an iPhone 6 Space Gray: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RrD_uPzXpCE --- I recommended starting at the bottom and cutting a 3 1/8th inch long piece instead of a 3-inch long piece like he suggests for the 4.7-inch iPhone --- Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7WXTJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fjP4xbQ0V9AMM

Wanted to add this disclaimer if anyone was wondering why the entire back of the phone isn't covered: I started applying it at the bottom of the phone first. While it does a great job adhering to the curved edge of the iPhone, there's not a good way to apply it to the corners of the phone, so I decided to start at the lowest possible point where it's actually covering the antenna line. Oh, also, an added bonus is that it lays flat much better instead of pivoting off the camera bump.

Personally, I would recommend saving a bit for one of these. You get a tougher receiver which, if you take care of it, will never have to replace. CYMA's proline AKs are the toughest that I've handled, and they will last.

Your first battery choice should be a NiMh, because they accommodate new players well. I suggest starting with this. Intellect cells haven't failed me yet.

I've heard that Tenergy has decent ones, but there are some consistency issues with my experience. They burnt out a £70 frankentorque motor that I installed for a customer (granted, it didn't have a MOSFET, my mistake), but the battery somehow clocked into a bunch of voltometers at around 11.3 volts. Quite unusual, considering that it should have been 9.6. I am sure that I just got a really crappy battery. (I know it was the battery, because it worked okay on my other NiMhs until I tossed that one on)

When using a NiMh, that Tenergy smart charger works fine.

If you plan on running any kind of LiPo, ESPECIALLY 11.1v and up, install a MOSFET. Even if you get a gun which already has a MOSFET, replace it. No stock gun has a good MOSFET that will protect your trigger contacts as good as this one.

Your current choices are good if you are stuck on that budget and need to play now, but if you can hold out for a little more, then definitely spend the extra money to get the best. Good luck!

For mainly camping get a Cold Steel GI Tanto on Amazon. I usually don't like tango style blades but Cold Steel's has a thick edge that's great for bushcraft while the secondary edge/tip is great for prying and other heavy duty tasks. It is 1055 carbon steel so do clean it after every use. I recommend you modify the grip to something better though, I personally use tennis over grips as they are cheap and amazing.

Or if you want something smaller for both camping and EDC I suggest a Kershaw Skyline

This is my setup. Setup/Teardown of each play session isn't troublesome anymore.

-2 Counter Trays. I can store most of the enemy standees and some of the random tokens like treasure chests and traps.

-Plano 23620-01. This is where I store all of the tokens like XP, Damage, Conditions, etc. This is also where the rest of the big enemy standees go (except the huge dragon). I can also fit random tokens like Doors, Bookshelves/Coffins, etc.

-Smead Expanding File. This is where I organize all the tile/map pieces. Everything fits comfortably except the "T" pieces.

-Avery Binder and BCW Pocket Pages. This binder acts like the Item Shop and can easily be opened to show available items. I even covered locked items with construction paper to be "unlocked" when Prosperity reaches a certain level.

-Ultra Pro Deck Boxes. I store everyone's Class cards here. The bottom compartment holds the Class/HP/XP tokens, Items purchased, and Attack Modifier Deck.

-Construction Paper. As a solution to organize/retrieve the needed enemy Stats Cards and Enemy Ability Decks, I created a sleeve out of construction paper for the Stat Card, leaving enough room to fit the respective Ability Deck as well. I sleeve most of the cards, so I put all 8 ability cards into a "City/Event sleeve", then throw it into the Stat Card sleeve I just made. Hope that made sense.

ICS PAR MK3

For batteries you have a couple options:

7.4v lipo from Hobbyking (not sure on the exact one, but this should work) with Imax B6AC

Or

9.6v nimh with smart charger.

Lipos are better than Nimh, but you do need the fancy charger and they require a bit more care. heres a good care guide for them. The benefits are the smaller size, lower price, last longer per mah, and are more powerful.

Morthy demands:

• This book comprised of sermons given by an old posh Englishman. (WL: Under $10.)
  
  Akeleie demands:
  
  
• My most geeky item is this Henry VIII mug. (WL: Books, Doctor Who, Geekery.)
  
  
• The ultimate item which would most help me achieve a goal would be this tablet, for taking notes in class (the tables in lecture halls are too small for my laptop) and keeping up with modding /r/selfharm on days when I don't/can't lug my laptop with me. The realistic item which would most help me achieve the goal of being safe would be this pepper spray. A lot of harassment occurs on my campus/in the surrounding town and it's really quite scary. (WL: Both from Most Wanted.)
  
  
• The best item to bring to a deserted island would definitely be these jars because jars are the shit and you could store water or coconut milk or bugs (om nom nom protein) in them. (WL: For my house!!!!!)
  
  You two are adorable and I love you. Fun contest!

Thanks, but I can't find a version with a plain blade, just with part serrated blade.

But in the suggestions at Amazon i found the Kershaw 1990 Brawler (link) which looks good. Not "as tanto" (can't think of a better description but I hope you understand what i mean) as I'd like but for the prize it seems like a good alternative.

https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Manix-Black-PlainEdge-Knife/dp/B002ECY7XI

One of the best sub $100 knives you will find with great ergos and an excellent steel to boot. Its a strong design that also cuts really well (better slicer geometry than my Izula). If you look around on /r/knife_swap and dont mind waiting you will see them go for anywhere between $70-80 bucks used still in excellent condition. Delicas and Enduras are also great and Sub $100 if you want something that carries more slim than the Manix.

I use the MSA Sordin supreme pro-X with gel-cups, but they're a bit pricey. https://www.amazon.com/MSA-Sordin-Supreme-Pro-Electronic/dp/B00QV33ZRK

Others swear by something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Amplification-Electronic-Earmuff-R-01902/dp/B007BGSI5U

Peltor got some as well: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Peltor-Tactical-Sport-Earmuff/dp/B000Q04MRG

I like the Sordin because A) They're comfortable, B) the profile makes them not be too much in the way for a proper cheekweld, and C) I think they have pretty damn good sound compared to the Peltor that I tried (it's easier to distinguish sound direction I think).

For fixed blade if you are gonna be using the knife for hard use then I would not recommend a folder. I'm more knowledgeable on folders so someone else may find a better choice. If they don't, this is still a very solid choice, I have never had one, but I did have an izula (which is very similar).

For folder I would go with the Ontario rat, they make this is d2 blade steel which would be better and they make a smaller version (rat 2) but any version of this knife you choose will be the best for the money.

Another fixed blade that is similar to picture is this Schrade. Schrade usually isn't the best company but 1095 is definitely a cheap, good steel. With the blade thickness and steel, I would trust this knife any day.

If you're on the road you need shit that is all utility. I've put together a list that I think fits that bill. No Kershaw Cryo fashion knives here. I love a good looking blade but if you pull that out and lay it next to you far from being threatening someone will probably just steal it.

You need to buy a hobo knife to be a proper hobo.

For a self defense blade I would look at the Cold Steel GI Tanto. To be honest it is best used as a deterrent, it is menacing enough that it should serve that purpose. It's tough steel too so you can use it to pry and chop too. Prepping firewood with it by batoning is going to be easy.

A coarse diamond sharpening key chain is also nice to have.

Here is a waterproof jacket for $11 from Eddie Bauer.

Some inexpensive dry stuff sacks would be good too.

A stainless water bottle that you can also use for cooking is good too.

I have the Manix 2. I don't like the look of most Spydercos but this one I love. I use it a lot, It feels great in my hand, not too heavy, not too light, cleans pretty easy, and it seems like it is going to last a long time.

I got these bad boys in the 4-pack option:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKIG4NC

I was able to fit almost everything from the cardboard punch-outs that wasn't a big map tile into 3 of those boxes, but the 4th one was useful to have more dividers (I used almost every single one). The pieces fit very well but it remains to be seen 1) how easy it is to get the little pieces out of those compartments with big fingers, and 2) how easy it is to re-pack the Gloomhaven box with those containers in it - although that only really matters if you'll be traveling with the game.

If $20 is too much to spend on top of the base game, I think you could also do fairly well with a lot of small ziplock baggies.

I can't help you on what is legal in NM, hopefully someone else can chime in on that. Your landlord may let you break your lease early if you don't feel safe with him moving in early. Worst you could do is ask and she says no. The landlord may require you to get a restraining order before she will allow that. Alternatively your landlord may let you find someone to take over the lease if they qualify with the landlord.

​

The rest of this is not really landlord advice but personal security advice.

You are ultimately responsible for your own safety and security, not your landlord or the police. If you don't feel safe you need to make it a priority to get out of the situation. Document everything that he does that is pushy or unwelcome, it may help you legally if there is an incident that you have a paper trail.

You need to up your situational awareness 10x and have a plan for how you will defend yourself if he gets aggressive with you. You cannot be on your phone while entering or exiting your house any longer. Always lock your doors on your house and car (You can check the vehicle manual to disable it auto unlocking if your vehicle does that inappropriately like my mazda did).

You can visit /r/homedefense to learn about how to prep your home, they often have good tips even for those who rent and may not be allowed to make changes to the door/window frames. These kind of tips will help you keep him out of your home if he does try to enter.

If he does get in though which is always a possibility no matter how well you prepare you need to be able to physically defend yourself. I recommend you have 1-2 canisters of oc spray with you at all times and pursue ccw if you don't already in NM (from what I understand the process is pretty bad in NM so this may take 6+ months). Firearms are the great equalizer as even smaller women are able to defend themselves against large aggressive men with them. I do not recommend knives, batons, or stun guns as they are less effective than oc spray and firearms at the victim surviving an attack.

Stay safe, and if you get a bad vibe about how he is acting or posturing immediately remove yourself from the situation. Don't gamble with your life if you think this guy is going to get aggressive with you.

A 8.4v NiMh battery is recommended, but if you play with other people, you'd mostly be outgunned because the 8.4v NiMh battery usually gives the gun a pretty pathetic ROF and trigger response.

I would recommend a 9.6v NiMh Butterfly/Nunchuck battery as it's more flexible to fit in places, but it's going to be a tight squeeze inside the small battery compartment.

Finally there's the LiPo route. I recommend a 7.4v LiPo the most out of all these batteries, they're relatively cheaper than NiMh batteries, are smaller and have the same performance as a 9.6v NiMh battery.

Here are some links:
Amazon:
NiMh smart Charger
8.4v NiMh
9.6v NiMh

For the LiPo Route, I would recommend this battery and charger:

LiPo charger

7.4v LiPo charger

Here's the handguard pin from ebay

everyone seems to rave about the griptillian and the 940 from benchmade. also includes their lifesharp service, which is pretty awesome

i have a decent number of knives, but the one i use the most by far is the delica 4 wave-- best $60 i ever spent.

in the end i'd say you could definitely spend a lot less than $200 for a great knife, just depends on your taste

Olight M2R But honestly any flashlight (preferably using an 18650 battery) will be extremely useful and I use mine many times throughout the day/night.

Keybars are also pretty useful, just bought my first one the other day and it really beats using a keychain.

Any good knife will also be useful. I personally carry a Benchmade 940 and I love it.

>Padding and hip belts are almost always there on anything that's more than a day pack.

I appreciate you providing a reply, however when the question is "at what point do you need X" replying with "well many designs I see always have X" does not answer anything. We both know that packs exist which do not have padding (even you admitted something not larger than a daypack has no padding). So when someone tries to find out why or at what point is it needed giving a reply of "well, most packs have it" does not help.

>For more technical or demandingly used materials you can find data sheets from the manufacturers, but I doubt that's of much practical use when an individual is making their own gear.

Have you looked at this data? I have not checked manufacturer's datasheets for this information so I do not know if they actually label "this can hold up to 50lb". I doubt they give an answer that simplistic since, for example, building a pack will have large force variations on the fabric from walking pushing the pack up and down (when the pack is rebounding from the lowest point there will be far more force on it than the weight of the items in the pack).

>Not sure what exactly you mean by ALICE type vs MOLLE,

They are common pack types. ALICE: https://www.amazon.com/Rothco-G-I-Alice-without-Frame/dp/B01LW8T5GM MOLLE: https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Desert-Genuine-U-S-Military/dp/B005FLM1K6

>The idea of being able to double a carrying system's capacity, while cool in theory, sounds like one or both configurations end up being a bad compromise in practice.

Possibly. However, it is something I want to look. I mean what is the point of giving up early on saying "well, that might not work so do not try it". It is far more interesting to at least bother trying to figure it out instead of just "eh, nah". Additionally, the point of the MOLLE system was to be able to add additional capacity to it so it can work at least to some extent. There are things such as http://www.neotrekk.com/ which do allow you to add or remove most of the load as you want. So, I know that it is possible to have a design where you can add or remove capacity. The only question really is: can I figure out a design which I like?

The other potentially mitigating factor is that I probably want the starting size (without added things) to be quite small. In normal activities I might need:

poncho, paper, pen, ereader, wallet, keys, deoderant, chapstick, utility tool, maybe other things like headache meds or small additions

Everything would probably fit into a briefcase (I would check if I had one). Maybe this would scale to be usable for a weekend hiking trip (example size: https://www.amazon.com/5-11-Tactical-Rush-Backpack-Black/dp/B0019VWSQ8/ref=pd_sim_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0019VWSQ8&pd_rd_r=EPY30JCASR2K7R8VE85W&pd_rd_w=Pnfeu&pd_rd_wg=eK72T&psc=1&refRID=EPY30JCASR2K7R8VE85W). So, that is a very large increase in capacity, however I am unsure why it would be so difficult to design a bag which after I add compartments ends up similar to that example and I take compartments off as they are not needed.

You telling me "well, it will probably not work" does not really help. If you had pointed out that the military stopped using systems where you add and remove compartments years ago and they just use strap systems now, it would have been something I already knew, but at least you would have provided a reason for your point of "well it probably will not work well", and it would have been not a good enough reason to make much difference haha. If you had somehow provided examples or an analysis which explained that you cannot use a support system for a large bag on a much smaller bag because of {insert reason} so you cannot scale the bag, that would have been a great reason for me to stop thinking about it.

Not to hijack your guys convo, but I highly recommend a pair of these . Nice having something that's reusable (a pair last me about 5 months +/- depending on how much I ride) and they work great with a Sena to still let you hear your music while cancelling out wind and other non-essential outside noise

Others swear by disposables. The best option is really custom molded plugs to your ears, but I don't trust myself not eventually losing them enough to take that route

Whatever you go with, watch a quick video on how to properly insert ear plugs. It is astonishing how many people don't know how to put them in right!!

lol im really not a gun snob, but i love my full size mk25, in the summer or when i dont have a suit i carry a small sig p938 so i dont mind smaller guns at all. My spyderco that i just lost was a delica 4. heres the link. I loved it! I also carried a cutco folding knife that was amazing
https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Delica4-Lightweight-Ground-PlainEdge/dp/B003CH3V5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496332376&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderco+delica+4+knife
https://www.cutco.com/products/product.jsp?item=lockback-knife#sm.0000tnlyoz18n2dx1qfcjipmxla5a

Look at the Kershaw Leek, its got a good 3 inch blade, it practically disappears in your pocket, is basically a modern gentlemen's folder, and can get it in several different colors. Its one of the most popular knives out there and is well made. Only thing to watch out for is the tip, its very thin and can break off if you try and use it as a pry bar. You can find the leek for about 40-60 bucks depending on the model.

Link - Kershaw Leek

If you're looking for something heavier duty, the Kershaw Blur or Freefall would be good buys. I use a freefall as one of my EDC knives and think its a great buy for the money. The blur is very well regarded as well, though I don't have experience with one myself.

Link for Blur

Link for Freefall

If you don't absolutely need the spring assist, another idea would be a Spyderco Delica 4, or perhaps a Spyderco Persistence if you want a little cheaper price. Both are solid knives for the money and aren't too bulky in the pocket. You can get the Delica in colors too!

Link for Delica 4

Link for Persistence

I have [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAG4WX2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) they're great. They're infinitely more comfortable than the home depot specials (which I own many of). The great thing is you can actually understand an R/O at crowded indoor range.

Edit to Add: The Howard Leight's that everyone else is talking about in the thread are a great option as well.

Yeah but I don't really need specifically a kitchen knife. Just wanted a good all around knife I can use for pretty much everything. It doesn't have to be very good at something.

I'm really liking the Spyderco Resilience

Well heres a list of some from amazon.

• Opinel No8 Carbon Pocket Knife | $12 | 4.6 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Chill Serrated Pocket Knife | $21 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Brawler Speedsafe Knife | $23 | 4.5 Stars
  
  
• Ontario RAT Folding Knife | $27 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo Speed Safe Folding Knife | $30 | 4.4 Stars
  
  
• Spyderco Ambitious Plain Edge Knife | $33 | 4.5 Stars
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious Plain Edge Knife | $34 | 4.7 Stars
  
  
• Camillus Carbonitride Titanium Folding Knife | $37 | 4.8 Stars
  
  
• Kershaw Ken Onion Leek Folding Knife with Speed Safe | $39 | 4.7 Stars
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  PS if you aren't sure about your knife laws check out this PDF just scroll to your state and check. Also /r/Knives can probably help you if you have more specific questions about knives. Although going to that sub-reddit will also probably mean spending more than $30 so be forewarned.

If you like kershaw you can get a blur with S30v steel for around 65$ on amazon if you still want a kershaw. I've never been too impresed with them since I find their build quality to be lacking. They seem to have an excessive amount of blade play and use average quality steels in most of their knives. The a premium steel that can hold a razor sharp working edge. The spyderco delica/endura line is also a great knife. They have full flat ground blades that come razor sharp from the factory with absolutlely no blade play. I personally carry a green delica as one of my edc knives. The dragonfly is also great if you want a knife that dissapears on your person. it is a featherweight knife, that cuts and handles like a much larger knife.

If you are looking for a knife that can take an absolutely harsh beating, I would have to reccomend an Ontario RAT 1 or 2 depending on you size preference. They are a bit heavy in hand compared to other knives it size, but perform just as good as any of my spydercos. It is also on the cheaper side at around 25$.

The benchmades are also a good choice, but I would also reccomend the benchmade mini-presidio.

Anyways, I thought I might as well just post some links to them:

S30v Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Mini Presidio

[Benchmade Griptillian] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9BOF0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2Q6YQ3PL1NNYW&coliid=I1IO3PSF8569TW)

Benchmade Mini Griptillian (I prefer thumb hole openers, but both griptillians also are offered with combo edges and thumb studs.)

Spyderco Dragonfly

Spyderco Delica

Spyderco Endura

Ontario RAT 1

Ontario RAT 2

#1 Silicone Cupcake Liners - great for holding chits, coins, etc. at the table.

#2 Condiment containers with lids Locally, I can only grab these at cheap Dollar-type store, in the "party" section no-less. But having simple, cheap, 2-2.5 oz. plastic containers with lids that you can use to hold some pieces in game-boxes is great.

#3 Plano Boxes of various sizes - These CAN be great for some games to hold chits, dice, etc. in the game box and/or at the table. Some have a love/hate relationship with them. Currently, I only use one for the dice in Roll for the Galaxy, and the one I have is perfect for that.

You should pick up a few high value knives for the money. Here are a few that are worth way more than their price tag:

Mora Companion - this blade is incredibly useful for camp tasks and bushcraft projects, very strong even though it's not full tang (I've never heard of one breaking).

Ontario RAT Model 1 - This is one of the best folders I've used, at any price. For $26 you won't find a better knife.

Utilitac 2 - This knife comes in a ton of different styles, made by Ontario like the RAT, and of equally high quality. These knives are built like tanks, and can take abuse.

Schrade SCHF9 - Unlike the Mora, this knife is a huge chunk of steel. I doubt you could break it with a hammer to be honest, so if you're tastes run towards the bigger camp knife, this is it.

Find something that's heavy at the end, heavier than your rifle, and shoulder it a bunch of times just like you would your rifle. Do this for a few weeks and you'll increase your strength.

As to hearing protection, I recommend doubling up with equipment like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001T7QJ9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DH65RI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll still be able to hear perfectly without doing damage to your ears.

I decided to go with the Spyderco Manix 2 G-10 ... but I'm not buying it yet. I'm hoping to get it as a gift, so I'm keeping it on my Amazon wish list :)

>Are the 250+ dollar ones worth it to a casual shooter?

I am not a casual shooter and they aren't even worth it to me.

Howard Leight Impact Pro is what I use most of the time.

If I'm at an indoor range then I'll double up using In Ear Plugs under my muffs.

The Howard Leights can make cheek welds a bit weird, generally, this doesn't affect me much but if I'm doing some bench shooting and I need to hold a great weld for a long time then I'll just use my in earplugs and forgo any muffs.

99% of the time though I use the muffs.

Also, if your muffs don't have gel cups - get some. They make a HUGE difference and are 500% worth the $30-50 you'll spend. Currently I'm using Noisefighter's Sightlines - these have a shelf cut for glasses. Very happy with them.

I'd suggest just biting the bullet and getting a replacement. No reason to spend your hard earned money and not get a new in good shape copy. The game has a ton of replayability and unless you have a small shelf you can dedicate to GH alone, you're going to want to be able to box everything up.

As for organization methods, I'd suggest YASS on BGG.

YASS uses these boxes so you have a link to them directly on Amazon. Here and Here. The second link actually comes with an extra box you can use if you get the expansion or for other games.

This expanding folder works great for all the map pieces and makes set up much faster.

This is what I went with for the city's item shop It works great, although I couldn't find a binder so I just put some loose zip ties in the holes so it works as such. Just keep the locked cards flipped over and you can see the item numbers for when you unlock them. Some of the cards are a tight fit but it works well, just split any items that have a quantity of 4 into 2 windows of 2. This also comes with plenty of extra sheets for the expansion (I hope).

As for the extra cards that get moved in and out of the game, I'd suggest just plastic baggies.

Good luck, the game is a blast!

I would second the Delica recommendation. Amazon has a Delica 4 ffg in Purple that would do nicely. The Dragonfly 2 in a very dark green frn and a yellow H1 salt frn would be great as well. Great gift idea man!

How about a pocket knife? They have the benefit of being both cool and extremely useful. You can get yourself a Spyderco Manix 2 on Amazon for just under a hundred bucks with free shipping. It's a good size for a lot of tasks, but small enough that it can easily be carried in your pocket. An excellent EDC blade for the price.

Super easy to install it comes with the pry tool to pop the pieces off. And the grips are solid, they should use these for the elite. I have an elite and a controller with the quickshot. And the trigger locks are a nice bonus unless you forget them on in a racing game.


I also used some of this stuff I have. It's easy to cut and stick anywhere you want grip. I have had some on my controller for 2 years and it's not coming off. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7WXTJS/
It doesn't stay stuck on what it is meant for very well though.

I use this talon grip like grip tape I found on Amazon for like $12. I have a strip of it on my Appleseed rifle where my support hand goes when I'm shooting standing and all slung up. It's plenty grippy and durable and could be an option.

Triangular handguards are always gonna look good, Brownells has some rifle length in green on sale right now for $26.99...i think I need to build another rifle, haha.

Pepper spray! I’ve had one on my keys for about a year and even though I’ve luckily never had to use it, I always feel safer knowing I have it.

You can get one like this off amazon for pretty cheap.

I have one from a company called BlingSting, which is a bit more pricey, but I just wanted something cute if it’s gonna be on my keychain (Which is not a great priority, I know). They also have these alarm devices and escape hammers which could be good options for you too!

I hope you find something that works for you!

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

> https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6

yes. i also got mine from amazon.

the parts that need improvement are discussed in the customer reviews near the bottom of the page. powder dispenser and scale are the items i remember getting lukewarm reviews. those parts are cheap to upgrade. so no worry.


you need dies for the caliber that you are reloading.

for some reason i have 2 sets of .223 dies. i know i purchased one, i'm not sure if the other came with the kit.

i purchased a 2" bench top cut off saw [$32]

a jig to cut my cases [$13] 300blk

a case length guage [$10] 300blk

ammo loading tray [$7]

dies [$39] for each caliber

digital caliper [$16]

frankford scale [$32]

frankford bullet puller [$16]

tumber kit [$75]

i spent a good month or so on /r/reloading before i actually purchased anything.

i asked questions and made a shopping list.

those guys are very helpful

research what you actually need for the caliber / bullet grain you want to reload before you buy anything.

double and triple check what powder you need as well. it could save your life.


i kinda over did it with supplies

haven't opened half the boxes yet.

Titanium is not an ideal knife material. A stainless steel blade, even one made of cheaper steel will perform better than a titanium equivalent.

The knife you linked is not titanium, I think they are claiming the coating is Carbonitride Titanium but the blade itself is good old AUS 8. Which is a decent steel. If you like that knife, it would probably work just fine.

In this price range, I was going to recommend Kerhsaw, Benchmade and Spyderco. But, I just looked through the UK amazon store and your choices are really slim. So, I looked through the store and picked a couple solid choices.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/g6q/Ontario-Knife-Company-Folder-Plain-Folding-Blade/B001E8EM2E/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spyderco-Resilience-Plain-Folding-Knife/dp/B004AWOLV8/

If you end up further down the rabbit hole /r/knives, /r/knifeclub, /r/turtle/

Some mods you could do are:

• Paracord (from CeeSA or Paraflex Cables): ~€25
  
• Aftermarket feet (Hyperglides, Hotline or Corepadz): ~€10
  
• Grip tape: ~€10
  
  Just some additional info:
  
  
• Prices in Euro for consistency
  
• Paraflex Cables are US only
  
• Most people agree Hyperglides are the best quality, but are more expensive than hotline and Corepadz
  
• Some people also say that Hotline/Corepadz are worse than stock but it seems to depend on the mouse
  
• The most popular grip tape on this subreddit is GT-500 but there would be alternatives
  
• You could put grip tape on the mouse, on the grips or replace the grips. Example 1 Example 2
  
  Personally, I have a Paracord from CeeSA and it's amazing, definitely worth it.

Cheap carbon steel knives I've had my hands on are Glock Field Knife, the Cold Steel GI Tanto, and the Cold Steel Bushman.

The GI Tanto is very heavy and effectively indestructible. My brother in-law describes it as an orc knife. Easy to make a spear out of but not as easy as the bushman. Can be bent 90 degrees laterally and spring back.

The Glock is also indestructable and while not as heavy as the tanto it isnt light either. Very thick spine. Comes with or without a root saw.

The bushman is much lighter and thinner than the other two. Turns into a spear really easily. Can also be bent 90 degrees laterally.

Not saying any of these are the best there is but I have used them all and I couldn't see any of them ever breaking outside of extreme abuse. They're also a fraction of your budget so that's always nice. Don't expect them to be pretty. They're purely utilitarian.

Spyderco has a wide range of folders under $100. There's the Delica, Endura, Dragonfly, Centofante 3, and Stretch to name a few. All high quality, made in the USA.

The Tenacious line (including the Persistence and Ambitious) is awesome if you want good quality for less than $40. However, if you want to spend more, I would definitely recommend US made knives.

I use these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAG4WX2/
I've had the Howard Leights as well. These are smaller and lower profile. I find them more comfortable, too. The electronics work great. I play CQB and Thunder B's are hella loud in there. This works great for that.
Use them for real guns and using my miter and table saws, too. 10/10 would buy again.

Oooh, have fun at your course! That sounds interesting! I only just figured out how to "copy and paste" in photoshop.

These earplug things because I can't study with lots of noise around

Less needed:

Han Solo Decal to scare off potential intruders

Cow Abduction Calendar - Because it's awesome

This book because I hope to do an after-degree in statistics and it seems useful

This movie because Halloween is coming!

Thanks for hosting this contest! <3

Ok so I looked a bit and for your budget they have quite a few knifes that fit the bill.
This is the one has great reviews and I personally love the design.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0033H7VI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1397075251&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40
What do you think?

*EDIT- here's a review with some field testing. For this price point it does work http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9EQk4vO94s

NRR of 22 is very low, IMHO.

For slightly more, here are NRR 30's:
Howard Leight R-01902 Impact Pro Electronic Shooting Earmuffs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BGSI5U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tVLJub19BQAXD

My go to is the Peltor Ultimate 10 - a $16 NRR 30 non-electronic muff. On the electronic side, I've been using Pro Ears with an NRR of 30 but I think I'm going to pick up the HL's above.

Maybe it is just my experience, but with 22's I have had to wear foams underneath.
Foams are cheap and easy to find at >NRR 30, so that is what I set as my baseline for muffs. I won't sacrifice my long term hearing (or what's left of it, what?) for convenience. I love Peltor, I just wish they would step up to 30 on the electronic side.

In that price range, from lowest to highest price, I found these in a quick search on Amazon:

• Spyderco Ambitious - 2.25" blade, $26.20
  
• Spyderco Tenacious - 3-3/8" blade, $30.13
  
• Spyderco Persistence - 2.75" blade, $31.89
  
• Spyderco Resilience - 4.25" blade, $42.87
  
  All of these use pretty much identical materials, and have identical features and quality. So go with whichever you like best.
  
  The steel used on these is middle of the road (the same as used in your Tremor), but overall quality is outstanding for the price. All around these will outperform and feel nicer than any Kershaws in the same price class, though I have nothing against Kershaw's better knives.

How about the cold steel kobun? Aus 8 is a decent steel for the price. If you want something a lot tougher the cold steel GI tanto is probably the best bang for your buck deal you can get on a knife. Just depends on what size and use you are looking for.

Kobun
https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-17T-Kobun-Tanto/dp/B0034JR4EO

GI Tanto
https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-80PGTK-Tanto-Carbon/dp/B004H9DO4Y


And give as many specifics as you can about the size you want, what you'll be using it for etc. so we can recommend the best knife we can for you

I would also recommend a Schrade SCHF9 or another in the Schrade series. They make some great quality knives for great prices. I said I would prefer the SCHF9 because I own it and I like it a lot, but I would also recommend looking at some other Schrades. The SCHF9 is not stainless steel so there's a little more upkeep than one that isn't, but mostly just keeping it dry and clean. Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033H7VI6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NAG4WX2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Peltor Sport Tactical 100. They're really comfortable, have an auto-shutoff and active noise cancelling that can be adjusted for different levels of sensitivity, say if you're at an indoor range vs outdoor. I tested them for home defense by setting a youtube video to play in my living room while I was in a different part of the house. Picked up the sound just fine, like I wasn't even wearing them. I'd recommend 'em.

My comment was written with most everyday people in mind. They're mostly sharpening bad 440C kitchen knives and don't want to spend a lot of money. Another big thing is that your average person in the kitchen doesn't even know just how sharp a knife can get. The average guy is usually okay with a good working edge. I was recommending the honing rod and the Lansky system because they're inexpensive, easy-to-use, and they last a long time. Plus, most people are never even going to need a Lansky. That's already more advanced than most want to get.

If you have good knives though, everything changes. If you're a knife guy, then yeah absolutely you need to have a more sophisticated sharpening system.

We're both knife guys, so you'll probably agree that it all really depends on which knife you're using.

There are so many factors that go into it.

How thick is the knife?
What's the blade length/shape?
What's the steel?
What's the grind? Convex? Hollow? Full-Flat Grind? Scandi? Sabre?
What's the angle on that grind?
What type of knife is this?
What kind of edge do I want to put on it?

I personally just put a convex edge on most of my knives, so all I really use is a strop and a handful of compounds. For everything else I just use an Apex Edge Pro.

First layer of protection: ear plugs. I use these.

Second layer of protection: electronic ear muffs, either the Howard Leight Impact Sports or the 3M Peltor Sport Tactical. Both work fine and choice is determined by which fit your head better. I tried the Impact Sports and they wouldn't seal right around my ears so I got the Peltors instead and they're perfect.

Don't forget eye protection too...

the 940-2 is the model that you have, with the s30v stainless, g10 scales, and green spacers. theres also the 940-1 which has s90v stainless, carbon fiber scales, and blue back spacers. as well as the classic straight up 940 which has s30v stainless and aluminum scales.

theres also the 940-1601 , the 940-1701 .. many variants of the 940 design available. same knife, different materials.

i have the same one you do, the 940-2, and i think its awesome. easily my favorite folder

• Coast HP1 Great flashlight for the price
  
  
• Kershaw 1990 Brawler
  
  
• Timex Men's T2P390 A watch that will look good in any social event and that would be great for anything else.
  
  $94.67

I'm looking for a nicer pair of ear pro as a gift for my best man, I'll probably be looking to buy for cyber monday unless there is a solid deal beforehand. Looking for something in the 40-80 range, I'm considering these at the $45 range but would love to hear any thoughts.

Personally I have never dealt with this experience. However, I think there are a couple things you can do. I always try to not run in the same place two days in a row, not because of paranoia but mainly because it's nice to not run the same way everyday. The other thing I'd suggest is maybe getting pepper spray. I know neither of these options will necessarily help you forget the things you experienced but maybe they'll put your mind at ease a little while running knowing that you are a little safer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UVTDLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1504448668&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pepper+spray&dpPl=1&dpID=41-EuGM3AgL&ref=plSrch

I have two recommendations that have never failed me within that price range and bring a lot to the table for the price:

The Delica4 by Spyderco which is large and stays sharp. It can cut and cut and just won't stop. I use this for my outdoor activities where a pocket knife can be used with some abuse. Also has a great grip on it which comes in a multitude of colors. Only knife better by them in my opinion is the paramilitary 2 for about $100 more.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CHANLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407121452&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

The Ken Onion designed Leek by Kershaw is my gentleman's knife. Very sharp straight out of the box and won't fail you. Much smaller than the Delica4 by equally as trustworthy. Super fast deploy speed and fits in the pocket nicely with or without the clip. Kershaw is known for cheaply priced big bang for your buck knives that just keep on going...and if you lose it, your wallet doesn't feel it. First folder I bought a few years ago and it is still my go-to most days.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009VC9Y0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1407121786&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40

Ok. Is Amazon a good place to look? I was looking at this one.

**Edit*** Also is Red Sabre any good compared to Fox? Others said this was also a good brand.

I recently received $400 in Amazon gift cards from my Chase Freedom rewards card. These are some of the practical items I've bought for myself:

Fenix E21 Flashlight (2xAA, 150/48 Lumens) - $32.45

Victorinox Swiss Army Champion Plus Pocket Knife - $29.99

Spyderco Resilience Black G-10 PlainEdge Knife - $39.14

Those 3 items add up to $101.58 but if you buy a flashlight you'll also need to buy batteries. I also bought a Fenix TK35 High Performance 820 Lumen Flashlight after being impressed by the Fenix E21.

Besides those items I bought a 1000mA car charger for my phone to replace a cheap 500mA charger, two 4GB SD (not SDHC) cards for use in my '07 Audi, a 5x7 Maxpedition Fatty Pocket Organizer, and a Philips Sonicare HX9332/05 DiamondClean Rechargeable Electric Toothbrush

I use a variety of tackle boxes from Plano. They have adjustable dividers but I find the 23620 sized ones to be perfect sized for nendoroid faces. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E3C3NU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

My walmart also sells a larger sized one with a row of large bays and 2 rows of smaller bays I find useful when figures have really large parts that don't fit. The large boxes are like less than 4 dollars at walmart in the fishing section.

i have a BK2. It is insanely stout and thick. Quite heavy. Can be used as a pry bar. Butt could be used for smashing rocks. It will probably outlast me. I decided to mount it in my vehicle because it is too heavy to carry comfortably for long periods of time. But will be very handy for all sorts of hard tasks when I need it. It can chop wood and do pretty much anything you want it to. But it is more of a "jack of all trades, master of none." there are other knives that specialize in certain tasks and will perform better. For a dedicated wood chopper, it is a little bit too short. It is heavy enough but the weight is balanced towards the center of the full tang, not where it hits wood. It can do it. But a longer Becker would be a better chopper. I don't recall the model numbers but Becker has a lot of options. Also I cant speak to rust issues. Its very dry here.

​

I also have a SCHF9 which is a bit longer, with better shape and weight distribution for chopping. It is a cheap knife, yet very solid. Thickness is very close to the BK2. If it rusts or gets lost I would just buy a new one. The sheath is not great but there are options out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF9-Stainless-Survival-Everyday/dp/B0033H7VI6

Have one as well. If you need a rangebag do not hesitate to get one of these. The quality is excellent and it has plenty of room to fit all your stuff.

These storage boxes fit in there very well. I have 3 in there.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKIG4NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I prefer the Breech Lock Challenger Kit because it comes with a hand primer instead of the safety prime system (for priming on the press). Otherwise it's the same kit. I did an absurdly long YouTube beginners guide using the challenger kit. I think it is a great entry level option.

I know Gerber isn't the best... BUT, I have been throwing this thing around for a while, it's a beater and it is sturdy enough for the tasks you plan on doing:
http://www.amazon.com/Grylls-Ultimate-Knife-Fixed-Blade/dp/B009XMYKOI/ref=sr_1_23?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1398715605&sr=1-23&keywords=gerber+knives

The only problem with that is that it is at your price limit, and it probably isn't the best you can get for the money (you're paying for that sweet Bear Grylls sponsorship ;) )

Because of that, I also would recommend this:
http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF9-Extreme-Survival-Carbon/dp/B0033H7VI6/ref=sr_1_2?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1398715810&sr=1-2&keywords=Cold+Steel

The only thing with this knife is that it is made of a high carbon steel, which means you'll need to care for it just a teeeeeny bit. You will need to occasionally treat the blade with a light oil or a corrosion inhibitor to keep it from rusting. This really isn't a big deal, it would only take ~5 minutes after every time you use it before you put it into storage.

I love the Surefire brand in the ear plugs. The ones with the triple flange ear piece. I wear them under Peltor brand electronic earmuffs and my wife and I can still talk while at the range. I’ve also owned Howard Leights and they are good to go too as long as you don’t leave them out in the rain haha.


https://www.amazon.com/SureFire-Defenders-filtered-Earplugs-reusable/dp/B004DH65RI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=surefire+ear+plugs&qid=1574204691&sr=8-4

Keep an eye on tacswap. I found my dual comm online at a pawn shop for $235 shipped. Mint.

For value the 3M Sport T-100 is a good value, I have a set. Way better than Howard Leights, IMO. I’ve seen them as low as $39 from time to time.


Peltor Sport Tactical 100 Electronic Hearing Protector, Ear Protection, NRR 22 dB, Ideal for Shooting and Hunting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAG4WX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FtpnDb4QGRCX1

A hunting knife probably should be a fixed blade rather than a folder, so that's what I went with in suggestion. If you actually want a folder that you can also use for hunting/cleaning game, something that's easy to clean and service would be important! A Spyderco Resilience for $52 or Paramilitary 2 for over $100 don't have springs and whatnot you have to overly worry about and can be taken apart and put back together quite easily. You might also consider CRKT M16 series with this model being $53 OR the CRKT Homefront $53 in particular would make everything very easy.

Yeah, I just looked these laws up myself a few weeks ago after seeing so many gutter punks around with large kitchen knives sticking out of their cargo shorts. I'm from a state where the limit is 3" so I found it pretty unnerving. I'll be getting pepper spray, one like this with a comfy handle so it will feel better in my hand to walk/jog/hike around with.

I'd very much recommend coughing up the extra $48 for an Aimpoint P.R.O. (Patrol Rifle Optic). Top of the line, exceptionally durable/reliable, and very reasonably priced red dot. Literally perfect for the X95. Superior even to most acogs or holo sights. 10/10.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDR0I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4e.oyb19GP1W8

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0052HQV40/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485534522&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=spyderco&dpPl=1&dpID=416bQseRfeL&ref=plSrch
If you want to stay legal

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004AWOLV8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485534784&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=spyderco&dpPl=1&dpID=41CRY-zVxCL&ref=plSrch
If you want a longer blade

Spyderco got some unusual optics, but IMO are great.

Or if you want a knife in Retro look, I'd strongly suggest Opinel, they got all kinds of lengths to choose from. I'd get the carbon steel variant.

Starter Guns:

Tippmann Commando: 150$

G&G CM Series: 100-250$

CYMA AK Series: ~100-200$

Classic Army EC-2: 185$, a bit overpriced but hey, its tan.

Gear:

Charger and a 9.6v battery: 34$

Don't forget eye pro. I use Revision Desert Locusts, but ESS goggles are great as well.

So I actually just followed this BGG thread, downloaded and printed the templates that someone else made, and I bought the Plano boxes off amazon. They are good material and feel sturdily made. I don’t have any concerns with the purchase and am definitely happy so far! Much cheaper than the inserts available and it all fits in the box with the lid just barely not closing all the way.

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1726878/yss-yet-another-storage-solution/page/1

4 pack Plano3600 - https://www.amazon.com/Plano-2-3600-Prolatch-Stowaway-Utility/dp/B00CKIG4NC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=plano+3600&qid=1558362025&s=gateway&sr=8-4

1 Plano 3601 - https://www.amazon.com/Plano-2-3601-00-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B001ECQPSO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=plano+3601&qid=1558362136&s=gateway&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Surefire-Sonic-Defender-1-Pair-Medium/dp/B004DH65RI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417546652&sr=8-1&keywords=surefire+earplugs

Love these!! work great! reusable, can still talk to others, can still hear ducks, you are able to tell where the sound is coming from (electronic ones dont let you detect directions of sounds), and they don't hit your gun when you mount it. I carry several when i go out.

I use these http://amzn.com/B0006968YM 3M Peltor SV Tactical Pro Hearing Protector, they are expensive, but work a lot better than the Howard Leight electronic ones.

I also use them with this http://amzn.com/B004DH65RI Ear Pro By Surefire 4 Sonic Defender Ear Plugs.

This is for an indoor range, great protection for AR fire, but shotguns are still a little rough, though we don't get too many at my range.

These knives are a Buck Whittaker 437T Revolution at the top, and a Kershaw Chill. Recently I have expanded my collection of Kershaw knives. I have the Brawler and the [Lifter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ILFLBYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523470233&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kershaw+lifter+knife) as well. I think they are a great value for the comparatively low price point. They come very sharp, don't have frills, and they just work.

A couple months ago I hit gold in my search to reacquire a knife I lost as a kid. My Buck Whittaker 437T fetish was finally acted upon, and I found two on Ebay. Well, I was searching for something else, and I found another one! This one is black. So, now I have three - blue, black, and green. My search for more is always ongoing, but I'm not seeking them out any longer. All three of them have been disassembled, oiled, cleaned, and sharpened. They are in tip top working order.

[My collection of Buck Revolutions] (https://imgur.com/UBK6DI0),
[Kershaw Chill with a lighter for scale] (https://imgur.com/9pD5kpH)

Thanks for looking.

Foam disposables are great and all, but I just got a pair of these and they are fucking amazing. No problems with your helmet pulling them out, they seal off perfectly, and are comfortable for long rides. Oh, and no more pinching and rolling.

A nice Cold Steel Tanto knife. https://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-80PGTK-Tanto-Carbon/dp/B004H9DO4Y/ref=pd_lpo_200_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GTXWE56YWW2DGY8FT4E8

Great damn knife I'm sure any martial artist would be happy to own. Only $25.

I'm planning on purchasing my starter loudout today! Here's what I'm getting!

Gun: ICS G33

Eyepro: Save Phace Grunt Series

Facepro: Matrix Iron Face

Battery: Tenergy 9.6V 1600mAh Butterfly Mini NiMH

Charger: Tenergy Universal Smart Charger

Using the FREESHIP coupon code on Evike and the free shipping on Amazon get's the price to $288.98

If anyone has any advice feel free to comment!

Edit: Just ordered everything!

https://www.amazon.com/SureFire-Defenders-filtered-Earplugs-reusable/dp/B004DH65RI/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=surefire+ep4&qid=1573408353&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-4


Sorry, Surefire, not Shure.

They have different sizes, I got medium. There's better options out there I'm sure, but again, on solo hunts I can hear ducks whistle behind me, quack from a fair distance, and I've gotten used to calling with them in. For $15 it's a good option.

If you have a few bucks lying around, the easiest way to answer this question is to have you buy a decent knife and see for yourself how much better it is. For a nice folder in your size range, the Ontario Rat1 would be a nice start...it's only $25 (which is a very low price for a quality knife), its 3.5" blade is big enough to do most things you'll need it to do while also being legal to carry almost everywhere (in the US), it's supposed to have a buttery smooth pivot action, and it has a decent blade steel (AUS-8) as opposed to the who-knows-what in a typical gas station knife. And yes, the steel alloy does make a lot of difference, a good blade will hold a sharp edge for longer, be tough enough to withstand some abuse, be flexible enough that it doesn't shatter easily, and unlike crap "stainless" steel it will actually remain rust-free under reasonable conditions. The heat treatment of the blade also contributes to these traits, and I can guarantee that Ontario does a better heat-treat than whoever made your $7 gas station knife...which probably didn't receive any treatment. If the Rat1 isn't your style, Kershaw makes a bunch of budget-friendly (~$30) knives that are also pretty highly regarded, something like the Cryo which has spring-assisted opening or the very sexy Skyline which isn't assisted opening. And if those aren't to your liking, then Spyderco makes a couple budget folders, one of them being the Resilience which has a bigger 4.25" blade and nice G10 handles, you may like that one for the bigger size. Might wanna check the legality in your area though...

So yeah, apart from working better, a nice knife also has a much smaller chance of failing and cutting off your finger, which is the main reason that I cringe a little bit when people use bad knives...I just don't want to see someone who doesn't know any better get hurt by a knife they thought would work fine. Unfortunately, I do see plenty of knives like that around r/EDC, but maybe I just hang out in /r/knives too much.

I split the difference and bought complete upper and lower for my first "build." Spike's Tactical complete lower and BCM KMR Alpha 15 complete upper. Added the BCM bolt carrier group, a sexy, red Strike Industries charging handle, and MBUS sights and viola! My first AR. I added an Aimpoint PRO and a Strike Industries sexy red foregrip a few days later. Then a J-comp... Oh, and a few PMAGs... They say an artist never really finishes a work, only abandons it...

But seriously, buy a completed upper and lower and you'll have a very easy time your first time. The upper and lower attach with literally 2 pins. Insanely easy. Once you've put one together that way and held it in your hand and got a feel for it, then you'll start thinking about how you want to change the trigger or what kind of stock you'd like better and then those tasks won't seem as intimidating.

Please note: Those links above are the result of quick Google searches to show the products I'm referring to. They are NOT good prices at least compared to what I spent. I just wanted to make it easier to see what I was referring to but didn't want to go bargain hunting all over again.

Would this be a good battery? I'll be sure to pick up a couple extra mags just to be safe, and those rail covers. Thank you for the info!

Baggies are obviously the cheapest storage solution. I believe the game comes with a handful, so you don't even have to spend any extra money.

The next best thing is Plano boxes. They're likely the plastic tackle boxes you're talking about. Amazon should have them, as should any local Walmart, sporting goods store, and even some craft stores. Something like this one should work well for lots of games, but I haven't done any measuring and you might want a smaller one for Pro-bending.

If you want a hobby within a hobby, look up how to DIY foamcore inserts. See r/foamcore if you want to dive down the rabbit hole. Foamcore inserts are custom inserts you design and build yourself. This can get expensive and is rather time consuming, so first-timers beware. But it's the only way to get the exact type of insert you want.

The pièce de résistance are wooden inserts from companies like the Broken Token, Meeple Realty, etc. These things are always very well designed, but usually very expensive and a bit heavy. At the moment, I don't believe there are any of these designed yet, nor do I know of any companies with plans to design a Pro-bending insert.

For about $50, these are the best you're going to get.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001EI7578/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498269519&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=spyderco+resilience&dpPl=1&dpID=21SYwroxw1L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004AWOLV8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498269519&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=spyderco+resilience&dpPl=1&dpID=41CRY-zVxCL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CH1SQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498269566&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=spyderco%2Bendura&dpPl=1&dpID=31TgYMj7KDL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

These are all great knives, they're just a little different from each other.

Can't go wrong with a Spyderco Delica. It's a trusted and well loved EDC knife. Check out some of the reviews on it.

Depends on largely on the size of the safe, obviously, but they're not as expensive as they sound. I recently bought my father one as a birthday gift and I seem to recall about a $125 handgun safe.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EXQW672/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487425964&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=biometric+gun+safe&dpPl=1&dpID=41Qx313%2Ba-L&ref=plSrch

The Pro version is also on sale.

Just to head off some comments that will definitely probably happen judging from all the times this was posted before:

The sports don't fit everyone well, they're very head shape dependent. If they don't seal properly they won't work as well.

They don't work at indoor ranges as well as the pros or many other over-the-ear hearing protection because they're only 22 NRR, and again, they may not fit everyone well. (I feel like everyone should at least consider doubling up with inserts and earmuffs for most shooting anyway, in which case your insert is what matters more as far as protection goes, but live however you want).

Turning up the background noise amplification will let you hear conversation pretty well even with foam inserts in.

People really like noisefighter ear pad replacements despite them costing more than the actual earmuffs. That may not be the best link or price, I just linked the first one I found.

Given the job and the terrain I'm imagining this is more of a general-abuse knife (ie, "sharpened pry-bar") than a dedicated cutter. Accordingly, I'd try not to spend a fortune on it.

Though they're not serrated I'd be inclined to get a couple of these (~$26 on Amazon) which are designed to be cheap abusable knives for this situation. If there's lots of prying to be done an interesting option would be to get a Breacher Bar, plus a sheath for it (such as this one but currently out of stock), wrap the handle with paracord and pair it with a decent folding knife (such as the RAT 1) for actual cutting.

Other usual suspects:

http://www.amazon.com/KA-BAR-Fighting-Utility-Serrated-Sheath/dp/B000BSZDP8

http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Short-Tanto-Point-Serrated/dp/B001EIALK6

http://www.amazon.com/Ka-Bar-Short-Fixed-Blade-Knife/dp/B000JMEWBC/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1334972468&sr=1-5

(NB: with the Ka-bars make sure you get 1095 carbon steel not 440A stainless.)

http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-Kraton-Handle-Concealex/dp/B000BSY9AS

Or, for something rather smaller maybe an ESEE 3.

Edit: Just remembered the Glock 78 - again it's on the sharpened-pry-bar side of things and sheath and retention are probably better than most of the options above. (It's a proper Glock product and not just some random company that's licensed the name (I'm looking at you, Smith and Wesson) and IIRC is issued in the Austrian forces.) Available in black, olive green, and sand colours. There's also a saw-back version (the Glock 81 IIRC) but I'd recommend against that.

I just got safe so far it's not bad. At the end of the day any safe can be broken into. It was a good price and it will keep my kids out lol

https://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-QAP1BE-Biometric-Handgun-Capacity/dp/B00EXQW672/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=gun+safe&qid=1569975877&sr=8-14

The Amazon listings have the terminoloy backwards. This is more commonly refered to as a Nunchuck. FYI, you can't retract the stock all the way with a 9.6V.

The battery your stock was designed for is the [8.4v/1600mah] (https://www.amazon.com/1600mAh-Battery-Tamiya-Connector-Assembled/dp/B0027UDVBG/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1503889083&sr=1-4&keywords=8.4+1600mah+battery), thankfully the better 7.4v/1600MAH small brick type is the same physical size.

I wouldn't use an 11.1V without changing the Piston, Tappet, and adding a MOSFET.

The stock piston in those shred.

Probably the best deal is to start with this. just buy the dies and probably a digital scale. Also pick up a lyman reloading manual (49th edition). best for beginners to get you set on your way to properly reloading.

There are a few hybrid holsters out there that come with suede backing on the leather (hidden hybrid holster, firearm holsters, etc). I've never actually looked to apply anything to the front of the kydex on these holsters.

I have spent some time trying some different things on the back of full kydex holsters like those from pjholster. I've played with 3M safety walk indoor outdoor anti-slip tread (it's a bit thick but rubberized), skateboard tape, a rubberized grip tape sold on amazon, and even mole skin. I'll probably try that suede next. The others have worked - it helps it cling onto my side/shorts a bit more so that it doesn't feel like it's pulling my pants down quite as easily, but I'm not completely happy with any of them.

You can make it as cheap or as expensive as you like. The little lee loader kits are handy, and I think they can be had for under $50. It's a slow, rather imprecise way to do it, but it works and it's a good way to get the process down. I ended up getting this Lee kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1450679765&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+press+kit

Space is the real issue though. I know over on /r/reloading there are guys doing it in their closets, but I think a shop or garage with a concrete floor makes life easier.

I carry a backpack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085W0QJA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I can easily fit 4 of these plano boxes in it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E3C3NU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I have posted pictures of my setup recently if you want to look at my history. I'll never deny I carry way too much stuff with me, but if I can carry it without a problem then why not is how I look at it lol.

Thanks! You can get it on Amazon. All the stuff i added is personal stuff. Like the pin at the top is for my grandfathers group for equality between Muslims and Christians. Coin is close to 100 years old that my dad gave to some time ago. Paracord is from my little brothers first creations with the stuff. The mushallah(Silver thing in the middle) Is like the Muslim equivalent of a cross that my grandma got for me from Lebanon. And the tube thing next to it glows and gives my eyes boners when Im bored.

> Sony MDRV6

Wearing those on your head long term will make you want to off yourself.

I recommend what the people above say. Custom silicon molded ear plugs. Or just go with the standard in ear hearing protection (ex: Howard Leight).

If you want over ears, you can check out actual hearing protection used for heavy equipment and guns as well.

I use these Howard Leight Impact Pro + Howard Leight Generic in ear tips when I go out to shoot. You dont need those Impact Pro as they are electronic and are used to amplify day to day speech, cheaper $20 non electronic ones will do as well.

For normal day to day, this will effectively mute your world. With custom fitted in ear protection, it will make everything silent. As an audiophile and someone that likes to hit the range, even those + in ear (double ear pro) is not even close to the level of attenuation I would like.

I reload 9mm and 5.56, here's my experience:

1. Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit: $120 shipped
   
2. Electronic scale $30
   
3. Reloading trays (2) $5 ea.
   
4. Case de-burrer thingy $25
   
5. Misc Case length trimming widgets $10
   
6. Reloading Manual: I found mine free online in .pdf form, but take your pick.
   
7. Bullet puller $12
   
   Instruction manual Seriously though, this guy is one of the best reloading resources around.

My method is that I just don't hold it. I read using a Tablet stand.

Having said that, there is a type of grip tape you can buy that is designed for firearms. I've heard many stories of people buying that stuff and putting it on the back of their Kindle Oasis 2. The tape comes in sheets that you can cut and place wherever you want.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/GT-5000-Strips-phones-cameras-knives/dp/B00C7WXTJS/

I'd also like to mention that in the rare times when I do hold it in order to read that I find holding it in Landscape view (the thick part with buttons on the bottom) seems more comfortable than any other way of holding it. Plus I like big fonts so this makes the line length acceptable whereas I find it too short when holding it the standard/Portrait view way.

I really like this one:

Sentry Safe Biometric Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXQW672?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The finger scan access has been reliable and the gas strut opening is ideal for where/how I use mine.

I honestly don't know enough about it to tell you. Although I can say it's certainly good quality.
Here is the description of it on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/5-11-RUSH24-Tactical-Backpack-Medium/dp/B0019VWSQ8/ref=asc_df_B004D1SM66/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312841746627&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8170003655853737242&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015799&hvtargid=pla-337315437740&psc=1&th=1

I have a 511 Rush 24, and I use it every day on my motorcycle. Amazing capacity, will last you a lifetime, infinite possibilities with the molle webbing. My EDC pack and it's one of the best things I've bought.

This is mine: http://imgur.com/XbteXH8

http://www.amazon.com/5-11-Rush-Backpack-Black-Size/dp/B0019VWSQ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375289837&sr=8-1&keywords=rush+24

Gerber Shard is a convenient little pry-tool for a bargain. It's worth the price just to try it out. Bottle opener, pry bar, and Philips-head screwdriver all in one make it worth the space on my keychain.

For a folder, you won't go wrong with either a Benchmade Mini-Griptilian or a Spyderco Delica. And at the cheaper end, there's the popular Spyderco Tenacious, but I am personally not a fan. Just don't buy anything with partial serrations, and do learn how to sharpen your blade.

Happy trails.

This post is a followup to http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2od9b2/stickon_keyboard_bumps_on_numbers_row_is_there_a/ .

In summary, I need to give certain keys a tactile feel to facilitate positioning of my fingers over the numbers row, and over the [,], brackets (dvorak layout). My previous solution worked but was not very aesthetic.

I purchased this product: http://www.amazon.com/skateboard-chambering-emergency-acquisition-texturing/dp/B00C7WXTJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421676303&sr=8-1&keywords=gun+tape GT-5000 Gun Tape. I cut small 9mmx11mm pieces and stuck them onto certain keys.

I feel like the final result works very well with the dark blue keycaps of the Leopold FC-750r. And the tactile feel is perfect.

If bigger is better i would probably have to recommend the 5.11 RUSH 72. If your looking for a day pack or something to carry your crap to work then either the RUSH 12 or 24 would also work. While on the quest for the "Right bag for me" picked up the RUSH line of bags and fell in love with the 72, but it was just too massive to carry with me everyday to and from work and around town. I moved to the 12 which was too small as i carry a 15" macbook pro and tools for work, which led me to the 24 which has so far been the perfect size with some space to spare.

5.11 RUSH 72

5.11 RUSH 24

But the 72 is fantastic for backpacking or using as a B.O.B.

i'm a big 5.11 Fan, but i have been eyeballing the TAD Fast Pack EDC, But i need my RUSH 24 to fail miserably before I get one.

Let's see. I'm young, and attempting to care more about PPE in the shop (with varying success) so I'll do my best. I've got three systems I use somewhat regularly. An old pair of Stihl chainsaw muffs, some SureFire Ear Defenders, and one finger in my ear with the other pressed into my shoulder. I like and hate both of the products for a plethora of reasons, so here goes.


Stihl-
Effective when worn with limited protection. Put on some glasses and a respirator, and the noise very easily starts to get through some gaps. They're durable as all get out. The pads have held up well, there's no cracks, and these things haven't had an easy life. They're alright, but they're bulky and temperamental, resulting in me largely choosing glasses or a face shield over the discomfort of the muffs.


SureFire-
They're fantastic at blocking sound, wonderfully comfortable, and don't interfere with other protective gear. I've used them for shooting, sanding, driving nails in a confined space, and other things, with no complaints in terms of noise. Here's the thing. They're pretty easy to lose, and freaking nasty. There's probably a good way to clean them, but I don't know it. One use, and they certainly don't look appealing. Better pray you don't drop them, because then you're dealing with shoving sawdust or dirt right up your ear, in you don't spend a few minutes trying to clean them, first.

One thing I will say, and this was said well by Alec Steele, a blacksmith over on the youtube, is to Stop It With The Colors! I don't care if they're blue, green, pink, yellow, red, white, or any other color for that matter. They won't be that color for long. They'll start looking dirty, and as minor as it may be, sometimes it's hard to put on a dirty set of PPE. Granted, it's mostly a problem if it's a loaner or lesson set of ear protectors, but still. Also, no white foam on the inside. Sweat and dirt make that stuff super unappealing.

Hey, just a word of encouragement; you got this.

You're allowed to change your mind. You're allowed to say "no" and not explain yourself. You're allowed to call the cops on them, or to mace them if they won't leave you alone. My N's are actually a main reason why I carry mace; Nrage is not to be underestimated. You do not owe anyone an explanation. You only owe yourself to do what makes you happy as a person. You can do absolutely whatever you want, you are not beholden to them.

muffs

foamies

I use the above double up when shooting indoors.

edit: missed the non-electronic part, sorry OP. but the foamies are pretty darn good.

I have smaller hands and recently picked up a Kershaw Brawler as my first EDC knife. Small enough to be barely noticeable in my pocket, but still very solid construction. Really happy with it.

Aimpoint Pros are pretty popular and relatively inexpensive while high quality. The battery life is something on the order of 3-4 years even left on. I'm actually considering selling one to help fund a cross country move.

http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-80PGTK-Tanto-Carbon/dp/B004H9DO4Y

The Cold Steel GI tanto is pretty great, and for $20 you can't complain, my friend abuses his like crazy, and it holds up great

Seems like a pretty good deal considering the optic sells for $420 on amazon Here.

So it's like you're paying $480 $580 for a full M4 style AR-15. Doesn't seem to be marked up very much to me.

=( My math is bad as /u/MyFishIsGold pointed out

Okay, so in my opinion your best bet is to either do what /u/JustARandomCatholic suggests, or to get an FN-15 tactical with the P-Lok rail and get an Aimpoint PRO and either an Inforce WML or a used Surefire 951 off ebay and a Malkoff M61 drop-in LED bulb.

FN-15 Tac II FDE w/P-Lok Rail

Aimpoint PRO

Inforce WML

Little rail section for WML

5.11 Rush 24:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019VWSQ8

I've used it for 2 years now. Slight wear on shoulder straps (I'd recommend wrapping it in paracord or duct taping it up to prevent it), and I somehow magically lost one of the chest straps (user error).

So yeah. Not as good as the GR1 or 2, but best quality per dollar that I've seen.

Surefire EP4s - they are like $12-15 and excellent ear plugs.

https://amzn.com/B004DH65RI

3 Plano boxes works pretty well and is a lot cheaper than a good insert.

https://i.imgur.com/xjpUsSf.jpg

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E3C3NU/

I bought a few of these and also one time we went to cabellas they were giving them away for free at the door. I like the key chain quick disconnect thing, we use it for more than just putting pepper spray on our keys. https://www.amazon.com/Sabre-Red-Pepper-Spray-Ring/dp/B000UVTDLG

As mentioned by u/jside86, something along these lines is a much better product than the shit daypacks, and you won't look like a tard.

Big Left, top to bottom:

Gerber Gator Jr.
Harbor Freight $8 survival knife
KA-BAR #1213 Black Straight Edge
Ka-Bar Short Kraton-G Handle

Big Right, top to bottom:

Schrade SCHKM1 Large Full Tang Fixed Blade Kukri
Schrade SCHKM1SM Small Full Tang Fixed Blade Kukri
Schrade SCHF9N

Small stuff, top row, left to right:

Bessey D-BKWH Quick-Change Folding Utility Knife - Wood Grain Handle
Some cheap Husky multitool I got at Home Depot two-for-five-bucks back in '10 or '11
CRKT Eraser

Small stuff, bottom row, left to right:;

SOG Aegis Mini
Kershaw Thistle
Spyderco Resilience

-----

The Harbor Freight was an impulse thing. Same with the cheap-o Home Depot multitools.

The rest is pretty budget-conscious stuff. No matter what, though, even though they're not considered top-of-the-line or whatever, nobody will ever convince me that Schrade doesn't make some pretty damn good knives.

Quick access pistol safe, sometimes available at Costco for less: https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Biometric-Access-Pistol-QAP1BE/dp/B00EXQW672

Alternatively, loaded magazine next to the firearm (nothing chambered) would have prevented this particular case, but not others.

I'm a fan of making a Federal tax rebate for the purchase of a gun safe, but with no legal requirement to have one. I think today would be incentive enough to help reduce these types of events.

Prove it.

It's never gone below $390 on amazon, pretty good estimation of average price. http://camelcamelcamel.com/Aimpoint-PRO-Patrol-Rifle-Optic/product/B007GDR0I4

Spyderco Lightweight Delica, in gray - here. At $58.65 it's just a tad over your stated $50 limit, but I'm confident you'll like it.

7.125-inch open length
4.25-inch closed length
2.875-inch VG-10 steel blade
2.56-inch cutting edge
0.5-inch blade hole
0.09-inch blade thickness
2.5-ounce weight
FRN handle material

I've recently started using this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7WXTJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1410280058&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40

So far it works great. Good grip, not too thick, no problems with the adhesive. Still waiting to see how long it will hold up before the holster wears it out. But it's cheap.

What I did was just take masking tape and put it over the grip. Then I pressed it flat and traced the area I wanted to grip with a pen. Then I put the masking tape on top of the grip tape and cut it out. Worked very well.

If your looking for something with a left handed frame or liner lock they do exist but your going to be paying a high price for them. A lefty sebenza costs $400 and those high end knives will feel like they are built specifically for you, But there are plenty of ambidexterous locks as others have mentioned like a back lock or axis style lock.

As a carry, sure.

If it's beside your bed in a nightstand or something like that, I'm a big fan of biometric, quick access safes. Lots of them are very quiet and will still provide you with quick access to what you need.

ex. http://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Biometric-Quick-Access-Pistol/dp/B00EXQW672/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1

I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Biometric-Access-Pistol-QAP1BE/dp/B00EXQW672

It might be a little on the small side for all the items you've listed, but I've been really happy with the performance of it. My local Costco has them on sale right now for $99, so I just picked up a second.

What is the best manual to get started with? I'm planning to reload .308 and was about to buy this kit from either amazon or another dealer. Is this a good place to start? (I live in an apartment and am quite pressed for space)

Y'all are dangerous. This came from just a little bit of browsing this sub and some searching and review reading and whatnot. Amazon links for convenience:

Leatherman Crater c33Tx

Kershaw Leek

Schrade SCHF9 Extreme Survival Knife

CRKT 2020 AG Russell Sting

Any advice or substitutions anybody care to offer? I think for the money this is a pretty damn fine set of 4 knives. The Leatherman might get some funny looks but I had its younger brother for many years and it would probably replace my current EDC (Kershaw Skyline)

Edit: Will definitely take lots of pictures when I pull the trigger.

I use one of these. The fingerprint scanner works great, only takes a second to open. Accepts both mine and my wifes.

http://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Biometric-Access-Pistol-QAP1BE/dp/B00EXQW672/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453998706&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=biometric+gun+sfafe

Plano boxes are wonderful. I currently have 31 smaller locks in one of these (mortise + KIK cylinders and smaller padlocks), and 33 larger locks in one of these (full-size padlocks and cam locks). The storage density is very high, and the boxes have held up quite well and are cheap to replace if they break. I have another deep plano box that holds most of my tools and equipment, and one drawer to hold overflow/oversize items.

As for labeling locks, I generally only label things that are part of a series. For instance, I have seven American Lock 5200s that I use for practice, and each one has a small piece of masking tape on the top of the lock with a number written on it. The associated keys are all on a ring, and each one has a piece of tape on the bow with the matching number. During practice I won't look at the number, so I don't know which lock I'm working on if I grab it at random.

For special locks (borrowed, challenge locks, etc.) I'll use metal-rim paper tags to note important information, but I currently have very few locks that meet this criteria and don't use them often.

After seeing the other post with storage boxes I checked Amazon and I believe I found the same container. It's the Plano Tackle Box and I ordered one for myself already. Looks like a good deal to me.

I started carrying a pocket knife (just a $25 Kershaw, nothing fancy) a couple of years ago. It's unbelievably handy in so many situations. I feel naked without it now. I'd feel a lot better about encountering a mountain lion with my knife in hand than I would without.

i JUST got into it, as in, I just got my press this week and get the shell holder tuesday.

this

and brass, and bullets both of which are cheaper for your gun than mine.

seriously man, it's really really easy, i think you'll enjoy it, message me if you have any questions, or like the guy below said, go to the FAQ there.

Had this for awhile before a customer stole it from me, second favorite compared to my Oso Sweet:

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1990-Brawler-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B005UE6GRC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411497114&sr=8-2&keywords=kershaw

I have found THIS to be a perfect solution.

https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Biometric-Access-Pistol-QAP1BE/dp/B00EXQW672

Granted this can only hold one or two, I have this biometric pistol safe. It is amazing. I was skeptical about fingerprint access at first but wanted to try it for its accessibility. I have had it for 6 months now and it works flawlessly being used at least twice a day. You would think it would be finicky to get it to read but I have tested swiping my finger just short of as fast as I can and it registers everytime. There's also key pad and key backups. If you want to know anymore, let me know.

Coldsteel GI Tanto. I own it and love it. $25 cant go wrong. http://www.amazon.com/Cold-Steel-80PGTK-Tanto-Carbon/dp/B004H9DO4Y

You are also in price range of the Delica 4 and Centofante 3 or Endura 4

These are much better knives than the Tenacious, Skyline or Cryo. VG-10 is much better steel, made with much better quality control from better materials.

Obviously, they are right at your price point, but its a whole-nother-level type of thing when compared to the Cryo and such.

That is a good starter gun. It was my first. It will sound a little plasticy (meaning it creaks some), but besides that, they work fine.

For the batteries, I would say get a [Tenergy 9.6v NiMH] (https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-1600mAh-Butterfly-Connector-11423/dp/B001LGW32A). Lipos don't work very well with those smart chargers.

Also, do you already have eye protection? If so, what type?

I like what you named. Here's a speed safe and a wave open meeting your preferences and budget:

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-1990-Brawler-Folding-SpeedSafe/dp/B005UE6GRC/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1415701386&sr=1-3&keywords=kershaw

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-CQC-5K-Modified-Point-Blade/dp/B00I0S1BFW/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1415701479&sr=1-1&keywords=kershaw+emerson+5k

Cheaper in black, 5.95 prime

Cheaper in pink, 6.77 prime

Is there some reason you like this color? It's also cheaper, though from a 3rd party.

I'm not a big fan of the 0350 so I'm gonna say Link.

Then for a wildcard I'm gonna throw in the Spyderco Manix 2 Black G-10 PlainEdge Knife.

They're all solid picks though, I wouldn't stress too much, you'll be happy with any of them! Open a picture of each knife in a new tab, and flip between them, it'll become obvious quickly which one is calling to you most of all.

I think I'm going to get this one. It's small and unobtrusive so it probably won't get noticed and I like the quick release feature.

Sabre Red Key Case Pepper Spray with Quick Release Key Ring - Police Strength - 25 Bursts & 10-Foot (3m) Range with Practice Spray Option https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UVTDLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tyv0BbED2Q90C

I'm assuming you're not talking about the little red knife. The fixed blade is a Schrade SCHF10, not too bad for the price.

There's also the SCHF9 which is a little bigger, they are both worth looking into.

http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF10-Drop-Point-Fixed-Blade/dp/B00BM94JJQ

http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-SCHF9-Extreme-Survival-Carbon/dp/B0033H7VI6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382900003&sr=8-2&keywords=schrade+schf10

and here's a video of the two in case you're interested: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPFyyJTNWUE

If you really want to be running a copy, then you'll want to get a 14.5" barrel.

Here's the build I would run to copy the above, feel free to make edits to your liking:

• 14.5in Barrel w/FSB, Handguard cap, delta ring - $215
  
• A2 Flash Hider - $9 see response
  
• Crush Washer - $3
  
• Upper Receiver Assembly - $100
  
• Gas tube - $10
  
• Handguard - $64
  
• Rail covers - sides - $35
  
• Rail covers - bottom - $12
  
• Foregrip - $33
  
• Matech BUIS - $90
  
• BCG - $110
  
• Charging Handle - $14
  
• Lower Receiver - $50+transfer fee
  
• LPK - $30
  
• Trigger - $47
  
• Buttstock & Buffer Assembly - $50
  
• Aimpoint PRO - $432
  
• Sling - $50
  
  Total: $1,354
  
  Costs not included: Pin & Weld for flash hider, shipping, any applicable tax, transfer fee for lower.
  
  Average cost found for FN15: $800-1,300
  
  Not included with FN15: Aimpoint, sling, rail covers, Matech (proper) rear sight, foregrip, proper 14.5" barrel (all found in short search were 16in), shipping, transfer fee, any applicable tax
  
  Price configured closer to FN15: $792 (price excluding aimpoint, sling, rail covers, foregrip).

I learned on my own with the book that came with my press. It's pretty straightforward but there's lots of videos out there that can help

https://youtu.be/irC3NuIKDm4

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/

ICS Transform4 with 10 FREE mid caps $324 This also comes with a free $65 dollar gift. Which you can choose to get a chestrig you like. I would suggest the condor MOPC but it's a few dollars too high lol.
If you want to spend less on a gun and more on gear, theres also this G&P M4 CQBR

9.6v Nimh Battery + Charger Just wear black cargos instead of wasting money on black bdus

These work pretty well: https://www.amazon.com/Plano-23620-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3C3NU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1511234599&sr=8-9&keywords=plano&th=1&psc=1

On sale for $5 each!