(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best stereo 1/4 inch & 1/8 inch jack cables

This is so cool! My daughter has been watching my videos and I've thought about bringing her into the process, but it hasn't gelled yet. Glad to see you have her along for the ride! digital high five

So for the critique:

Yes, the intro is too long. Not by much, but for some reason, some inexplicable reason... it's too long. I looked over it again and I would say fade the audio as soon as the animation reaches the end of the words and fade the graphic to black and then fade in your video. That's my two-cents. Also, save the full length as a subscribe outtro maybe?

Get the poor girl some headphones and a Y-splitter and BOOM you can both hear the game audio. Just scoot your left and her right earphone cup off the ear a bit so you can hear each other too. http://amzn.com/B000068O5G

Honestly the audio quality is really good considering what you are using. Something tells me that is a pretty high quality headset because it's rare to hear audio that clear coming from a headset mic.

The video quality you are going to address with a better webcam so that will be great! Hanging a cheap sheet behind you as a background will help with a few things and you may even want a diffused light shining at you or bouncing off a back wall to illuminate you further. I've noticed the higher the quality the cam, the more light it seems to want.

I will say, if you enjoy doing these, I would probably watch a super-cut highlight of anything funny or exciting that happens. So you may want two series, one a short highlight reel and then one the full video. After a while, if you notice people like the edited version you could drop the full format or just not advertise those as heavily. If you notice people prefer the full versions, just ditch the editing :) For me, I only have so much time in a day and probably can't sit through a 20 minute video even if I like it. The only way I will is if there is alot going on in those 20 minutes and those 20 minutes are compressing down hours and hours and hours of footage and information. Then I feel the length is worthwhile.

I think it's cute, I love that you are getting her involved, and she's gonna love doing this with you for a long time to come. :-D

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Mixer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy

Xbox Chat Thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp

Earforce DSS (an option!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1

Ground Loop things:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799

dM

• I started out with just trying to get it going on my laptop with kjams & a microphone.
  
• But that didn't sound good and look good, so I hooked up my laptop to my tv through a receiver
  
• But using my mic through the laptop mic hole, caused a delay between the audio of the song and the mic
  
• This is why you need a mixer. You need the sound of the laptop and the sound of the mic to arrive at the same time. I got this one. Mic goes in channel one, laptop goes in channel 3 or 4 (get the right cable)
  
• That mixer's output goes into my receiver now. My receiver allows to get the audio from a different input than the video. This was essential in my setup. I have a basic yamaha 4 hdmi receiver. I turn it to hdmi1, but get the sound from one of the audio inputs, where the mixer goes into (get the right cable)
  
• sweet, now I have music and mic arriving in my receiver, and it's going to the speakers and the tv is displaying my laptop
  
• now people are tripping over the mic cable and they want a second mic
  
• get yourself some wireless mics. the ones i bought are no longer for sale but they are "dual channel" and "uhf" or something
  
• now you need some songs though I have to say, just opening youtube and searching a song title + ' karaoke' works pretty darn well as well
  
• and some disco lights!
  
• my friends like it and say it's the best home setup they know
  
  
  Btw, nice effort on the è but you want the other one: fiancé
  It's easy to remember: é the stripe goes on and so does the sound. è the stripe stops and the sound is short
  
  

OK, I will mention that the volume of standard audio and the calling app is stored separately and you may literally have to turn up the volume on the iPhone during the call even though music is fine.

What I think is happening is you are trying to connect an unbalanced device to a balanced jack.

The only 1/4" stereo jack on your interface or mixer is labeled Phones or Headphones. Other than Insert jacks, which I won't cover, all other 1/4" jacks are mono and able to use balanced or unbalanced connections.

RCA and 1/4" TS cables are mono cables. They are also unbalanced cables.

XLR and 1/4" TRS cables are mono and balanced.

Insert cables are special, as are headphone cables. These are 1/4" TRS connections but they are different. They are unbalanced.

OK, unbalanced cables are what you are used to. Nothing special.

Balanced cables are three wire cables. The connector can be XLR or a TRS plug, usually 1/4" TRS. There isn't actually anything special about the cables or connectors per se. The jacks you plug them into are special.

If you take a piece of professional audio gear (your mixer and interface for example) and connect them with a TRS cable, that cable will carry a mono signal. It will also be somewhat immune to radio interference from lights, refrigerators, and compressors kicking in, most anything that would cause interference in a long audio cable.

What happens is the Tip and Sleeve pair carry a standard mono audio signal, just like on a TS cable. The Ring Sleeve pair also carry the same mono audio signal, but this signal is 180 degrees out of phase with the other copy.

What does that mean? Let's say the voltage in the cable is varying up and down between 1 volt and -1 volt. At a given point, say the five-second mark the TS copy of the audio is at 1V. At that exact time, the RS audio is at -1V. Other times the two signals will be at -.2V and .2V and every other value, but always with a different sign except at zero. If you looked on an oscilloscope, the waves made would be mirror images.

Why would anyone do this? Immagine you have an old refrigerator or big AC unit nearby and it kicks on. This can cause interference in the various lines nearby. Usually, it doesn't matter. With audio, it does. You could hear it kick on, or a rumble in the background on all the cables or lots of weird effects, all bad for the audio.

Let's look at that five-second mark, again. An AC unit kicks in and imparts electrical noise of +0.2V to the signal. That makes the TS signal 1.2V. It gets added to the RS signal as well but makes that signal -0.8 V (-1V + 0.2V = -0.8V). Both signals were affected the same.

Here is the magic. The balanced jack that sends the signal sends the TS signal as normal and inverts that signal (makes it 180 degrees out of phase) for the RS signal. The receiving balanced jack reverses this, adds the signals together and divides them by two. SO the interfered with TS signal of 1.2B is added to the inverted RS signal, now 0.8V to get 2.0V which is divided by 2 to get 1V, the original, un-interfered with value.

Balanced cables aren't affected much by interference. Great, right? What's that to you? The only way the jack knows there is a balanced or unbalanced signal is if the cable is TRS, and assumes it's balanced. The jacks just aren't smart.

Now, consumer equipment rarely understands the idea of a balanced cable so if you plug in a TRS cable into the iPhone, it thinks stereo and outputs a stereo signal. The interface sees a TRS plug and assumes mono balanced signal and does weird stuff to the signal. A call is mono, so both copies of the signal are the same. using the 1V at a five-second example, the interface takes the TS 1 V signal, the RS 1 volt signal. Inverts the RS signal to -1V which gets added to the other and you get 0V. Divide that by two if you want but 0V is silence. This happens for all the audio making the call effectively silent. Anything you do hear is because it's an imperfect system or the two outputs are not quite in phase when generated.

If you place a stereo sound, say music with a big stereo separation, you should get really weird distortions. The signals won't be perfectly canceling each other out like the mono signal.

So, what does this mean? Use TS cables on the interface or mixer side. A Y cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C/

or a cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I/

or maybe this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D/

Any questions? Sound like what you have experienced?

!

there are a few ways depending on what recorder you're using; lets break down the 2 options

Option 1-
The H1 Route - http://amzn.to/2fQdkCW ($91)
XLR to TRS 3.5 cable - http://amzn.to/2gLdfoC ($10)

This route is pretty simple, the cable will connect to the sound board via XLR, join that to the 3.5 entry of the zoom, record, keep track of levels, do a sound check from the mic they'll be using to see if it's connected, this path will cost you $101

Option 2-
The H4 Route - http://amzn.to/2gNcB7T ($189)
XLR male to female - http://amzn.to/2fQgmY0 ($7)

Simple as well, connect xlr cable from DJ's board to your recorder; the h4 allows greater control of levels and organization.

this will cost you $196.

It's pretty simple, definitely get there early, talk to the DJ and dj's are always happy to walk you through it (at least the one's i've worked with)

If you want to see more of our gear, check us out at www.indiemarchfilm.media

Hope this helps!

About getting an amplifier:
A power amplifier is basically a device that converts a low power signal to one that is directly fed to the drivers of a loudspeaker, otherwise you wouldn't get any sound ('mic level' and 'line level' signals are too low for loudspeakers)!

Since the B112D is a powered loudspeaker, the amplifier is included in the unit. This means you don't have to go out an buy one separately.

About getting a mixer:
A mixer is a device that takes multiple audio inputs, performs some modifications to the signal (e.g. equaliser, compressor), combines the signals, then spits it out.

You don't really need a mixer if you only have one audio source (sounds like you'll only need one since you're planning to use it for music). Even if you're hoping to mix several sources, the unit itself has individually adjustable gain settings for two discrete inputs. If you need any more than two inputs, the Behringer Xenyx 802 should suffice.

If you're hoping to get a mixer to use multiple speakers, you can simply daisy-chain the speakers together (this means you won't get any stereo separation but 1. it's a pool party, who cares and 2. you probably won't get a stereo signal anyway if you use most mixers). Plug the main input into 'Input 1', then connect your second speaker to the first by connecting an XLR cable to 'Mix Out' on the first speaker, to 'Input 1' on the second.

My advice would be to go out and buy a 3.5mm to XLR male cable, and use that to connect your phone/computer to 'Input 1' on the speaker. If you have a second set, follow the instructions for daisy-chaining above. Do that for however many speakers you have. Good luck!

If you're constantly breaking cords, get something with an easily replaceable cord.

Fidelio X1, X2, L1, L2 from Philips. The SHP9500 also.

They use standard 3.5mm cords. All of them are over-ear, with good sound quality, low impedance.

If you want a Mic, you can easily hook up a VModa BoomPro to the SHP9500, X1, X2, and L2. The L1 is a bit weirder, as it has a length of cord terminating in a male 3.5mm a few inches from the cup.... so it can use something like a ModMic but not a BoomPro. - Or just get a cheap desk mic, like a Snowball, Samson Meteor or Go. There's also some pretty decent lapel mics out there in the $10-15 range.

For most of those, you can also get a 3.5mm cords with line-in-mics. I know the L1 includes one, and I'm pretty sure the L2 does as well. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Tsumbay-Microphone-Auxiliary-Headphone-Computer/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525144948&sr=1-3&keywords=in-line+mic+3.5mm


There are other headphones with detachable cables, if that seems to be your biggest issue.

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are just from my personal experience (I have not done anything to the phone besides change the launcher/icons):

• I have had pretty decent screen on time, definitely better than my M7, and alot less drain during standby if any at all, can easily go 4 hours with light use, and maybe use 5-10% max (at least for me).
  
  
• The screen is beautiful, it does have a bit of oversharpening, but you really have to see it and decide yourself.
  
  
• The phone gets hot, but I have never had an overheating warning personally.
  
  
• A good amount of accessories I have a spigen ultra hybrid, and a glass screen protector on mine personally.
  
  
• There is a weird annoyance with the micro usb where u have to tilt it downwards before inserting, and only the thinner micro usb cords will work, my amazon basics one was too thick at the connector in and wasn't snug enough causing an iffy connection. There was shell cracking issues, and is mainly a problem with the first few batches, mine doesn't have any as of now, it is a 2 month old phone. There is also a software problem with the headphone jack where if you use a line in to a car stereo it will have weird popping between songs, and the connection is iffy, but can be fixed by buying a 5-6 dollar extension, I got this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• LG's skin I would put on the same level as HTC's skin, not bad, but its definitely alot smoother if you use Nova Launcher or Google Now Launcher.
  
  
• I love the size compared to my M7, personally this is my sweet spot, until someone else proves me otherwise, any bigger, and it would start to be a bit too large for me
  
  I hope that helps!

I see what you're talking about. I'm not so concerned about noise as I am about doing this in a weird/hacky roundabout way.

Why stereo? I get that it's nice, but you're going to double the number of buses used per channel, which seems pretty wasteful.
Or to put it another way, it makes more sense to have 16 completely separate monitor channels than it does to have 8 stereo channels and probably end up sharing them. The logic being, if you're running a large enough event to require 8 monitors, you'll probably eventually need more monitors or buses. It can be a major pain to re-route everything to make it work.


If you do somehow have 16 buses to spare, run them all into passive DI boxes via a gender changer adapter or cable (https://btpa.com/MIC3-XX.html for custom length female to female xlr) and use a TS 1/4in to 1/4 TRS (aka insert cable) to get your individual mixes. This usually works for passive DI boxes, almost never works with active boxes. You'll be buying 16 DI boxes (and probably a couple spares), 16 female to female XLR cables (and probably a couple spares) and 8 insert cables (aka 1/4in unbal to TRS, probably at least 1 spare).

Or, the other route is to use the Shure a85f in-line inpedance matcher (or similar) to get your XLR channels to 1/4in TS https://www.amazon.com/Shure-A85F-Transformer-Female-4-Inch/dp/B0006NMUHW, then use a Y adapter to get to TRS https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-117-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O54
I didn't bother to spec anything nicer than Hosa cabling here, you probably should look into something nicer if this is the route you take.

**


You can also try not using the DI boxes and losing the impedance matching. Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. Hard to tell on paper if you'll get away with it. I'd personally try one channel worth this way and if it works roll it out to the rest. It's a much simpler, single cable setup (although technically "wrong"). BTPA.com and others will make you custom cabling, and if your order is pretty large they'll work with you on price if you ask.

For budget:
(All can be bought on amazon)

Mic:

Shure pga48,
Or
Shure sm58.

Pre-Amp:

Behringer Xenyx 502 or 802

Obviously the more you spend the better the value, but any of these should get you a pretty high price/performance in my opinion.

You’ll also need an xlr cable if the mic doesn’t come with one and something like this so you plug standard headphones in:

https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+1%2F4&qid=1569969295&sprefix=3.5&sr=8-3

If you have unlimited money to spend, then a sennheiser e945 and an rc505 are going to future proof your beatboxing career.

Should be all you need, good luck!

Yeah I've had a commuter on my past two phones. I like them, but they are a bit bulky. I also feel like they may have gone down in quality. My first one on the Droid Charge was rock solid and the plastic/rubber didn't peel away or crumble. The one I had more recently seemed like they lowered the quality of rubber or plastic they use because it didn't feel as nice at all. At least not nice enough to justify the cost.

What I'll probably do it get a nice one I like, and get something like this

Thanks for your testing dude! Some follow ups, if I may;

I have the Ditto x2 which has the 2 inputs (mono ad stereo). According to them, what comes out one input comes out the same output. I tried the y-splitter like you suggested I used this and I can still only get the left channel to go through. (No matter which channel that is plugged into)

I am feeding it into an acoustic ag30 which has 2 separate inputs, I just feel like this set up it should be able to do 1, so I can save the other for a live affected mic. I have a small mixer and if you say that that is working without the problems then maybe I will play around with that.

I don't believe the mic needs phantom power so I feel it might be something with the transition cable. Like above I will try the mixer and report back.

You rock dude, thanks for your time and effort!

As long as your laptop has a "mic in" jack you can do this. It might not sound as good as if you were running through an interface, but you can do basic recording-n-stuff.

You are going to need some sort of audio editor or DAW that you can record onto; I use Audacity because it's both free and easy to use.

To connect your bass to the laptop you're going to need a cord something like this.

I've heard of folks that boogered up their sound card, so start with your bass volume very low and sneak up on it.

Have fun!

Just because someone produces doesn't mean that they can DJ, and vice versa. Everything in this subreddit pertains to you, except for the music theory because presumably you already know it.

As already stated use the sidebar, wiki, and search function. Almost every question you have has been answered twice already (I promise).

My quick opinions on what you should get:

• Controller: You want a mid-range controller. Pioneer DDJ-SR or Traktor S4 are the best ones for your budget.
  
• Software: Depends on your controller but definitely use the software it was designed for. Avoid VDJ, Djay, and others. Get Mixed in Key and Spek as well.
  
• Music: Subscribe to a record pool. I like DJcity.
  
• Headphones: You're good. Buy an adapter if you don't already have one.

Because Apple are fucking weird and have to make everything needlessly complicated.

The reason is because the "poles" (areas between the black lines) on the plugs are wired differently for Apple products. On most products, it's Left > Right > Mic > Ground. For Apple products, they reverse the mic and ground. This is why most earbuds on Amazon will have you pick between two versions, one for Android, one for Apple, or have separate listings for each.

Apple always has to make their products nice and "special." Your best bet is to just buy a replacement cable for another brand of headphones with the in-line mic. The headphones will work perfectly fine because the plug that goes into the ear cup is still Left > Right > Ground.

Here's a decent cheapo for $7.

https://www.amazon.com/Tsumbay-Microphone-Headphone-Auxiliary-Headphones/dp/B06XXD5SKN/

Does the speaker itself need to be portable? If not just get a single active monitor. You can just buy a big to small headphone cable and you are away.

I'd say this is the best you could get for you budget and yes they do sound very good for the money.

Bastle Dude (fantastic mixer) http://www.bastl-instruments.com/instruments/dude/
Hady Audio mm-242 (inexpensive mixer) https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&O=&Q=&ap=y&c3api=1876%2C%7Bcreative%7D%2C%7Bkeyword%7D&gclid=Cj0KCQjwierMBRCHARIsAHl9i4EMewS_AEUPiZBFnVFLVe2v_dB5D9TwRX4PQRBVqUW7zNPyIwH2IB8aAhdzEALw_wcB&is=REG&m=Y&sku=746498
Patchulator 8000 (effects signal changer, super useful for people with lots of pedals)
http://www.boredbrainmusic.com
If you want to do any sort of recording I would recommend any of the Zoom H series, I personally use the H4.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=h4+zoom

If you are using the volcas and plan on or already have a few of them I would say for power get the myvolts 5 way splitter.
http://myvolts.co.uk/product/18811/5-way_power_splitter_cable_for_Korg_Volca_by_MyVolts_(5-way_splitter_+_USB)

If you are using the Volca Fm or Sample I would highly suggest using the retrokits RK-002, this clever cable helps unlocks the true potential of them. There are youtube videos so watch those.
https://www.retrokits.com/rk-002/

If you want to control your volcas from your daw or vice versa with other synths I would highly suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KXEDVQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio cables are always a hassle especially if you need a conversion.
UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" Male to 6.35mm 1/4" Male TRS Stereo Audio Cable is a great choice especially with pedals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Y2LANUU/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503335947&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3.5+mm+to+6.35+mm

For portability and long lasting power I'd say go with the Omnicharge 20. Pricey but oh so wonderful and you can even plug a real outlet plug into it!!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072JWN6LC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503336186&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=omnicharge+20&dpPl=1&dpID=41fBHrR5CYL&ref=plSrch

There are midi splitters but I don't really use midi so I'd say google that one.
Don't forget about audio cable splitters so be sure to get a handful of those and regular 3.5mm audio too.

I actually bought two of these amps because one of my amps died.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07942M4MC

​

You would only want to use these amps if you are using software like Simhub or Simvibe. These would not work for direct connection to inline game audio

​

These amps are much smaller. And the banana plugs fit perfectly into the amps if you remove the heat shrink from the Buttkicker cables to expose the smaller banana plugs inside the heat shrink.

​

I used this cable to connect the two amps to a single 3.5mm audio jack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759Z1QCP

​

It works perfectly and is a simpler setup, which I like. My opinion is that the Buttkicker amps are crap. But the actual ButtKicker Gamer2 units are really good.

​

Posting the extra information about the amps because I have looked before and asked before, and never found anything helpful.

I use this carrying case. It seems better (and cheaper) than the TE offering.

While in the case, I also use the decksaver. Better safe than sorry.

I haven't gotten this tiltable stand yet, but have my eye on it. Useful for G Force LFO, perhaps?

[This Bluetooth speaker also has a line input and is what I use for the OP-1 around the house. The bass sound makes up for the joke of a speaker on the synth.](https://smile.amazon.com/GGMM-Wireless-Bluetooth-Powerful-Enhanced/dp/B01M8NAN59/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526836517&sr=1-1&keywords=GGMM%2BE5%2BWireless%2BSpeaker%2BBluetooth%2BSpeaker%2C%2BPowerful%2BSound%2BEnhanced%2BBass%2B15%2BHours%2BPlaying%2BTime%2C%2BHands%2BFree%2BCalling%2Bwith%2BUSB%2BCharging%2BPort%2B(Black)

Cute.

Stereo to double mono splitter, so when I plug into an audio interface or mixer I've got some options.

A standard 3.5mm male to female extender but it needs to be TRRS (4 pole)

I bought this one for my car and it works perfectly http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm waiting to get this one to keep in my wallet in case I need it at a friends house/party/etc
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX8XIDK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of this would do:

• http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4/ref=sr_1_sc_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1395937607&sr=8-5-spell&keywords=3%2C5%22+y+adapter+chinch * http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PCBL43FT6-Stereo-Y-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G87FLY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395937304&sr=8-3&keywords=3%2C5%22+y+adapter Maybe spend a bit more for some higher quality, but even than it's about $20.
  
  If you want an external interface the 2i2 is a nice one and as you say it has two outputs. There are also some cheaper but decent quality interfaces. Tascam is a good brand to look for as well.

you could just get a cable like this or this and use your computer's microphone port for recording. the quality of the audio and available sample-rate/bit-depth options will depend on how nice your computer's soundcard is. if you want to record each individual channel on your mixer (to allow the adjustment of levels and application of effects to specific tracks in post production) you will need a more advanced multi-channel audio interface. an iRig allows you to plug an instrument which has a 1/4" output into your iPhone's headphone jack, this wouldn't really help you as it only allows one channel and still leaves the analog to digital conversion to your computer's sound card. if you are looking for something better, explore the USB interfaces suggested in the other comments.

This is a real basic cable but will do the trick, you can look around and find others but you want what is known as a TRRS connection which is what makes the microphone connection work in this case (like a cell phone wired headset with mic)

https://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-3-5mm-Conductor-Headphone/dp/B00FJEGXLW/ref=sr_1_4?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1518459414&sr=1-4&keywords=trrs+to+1%2F4+inch+male

With this you would need a 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter which should be easy to locate at a music store or through Amazon and should be pretty cheap. Personally I reccomend monoprice for this sort of thing.

Personally I wouldn't use XLR to XLR. It's a balanced input, whereas the RCA input is not, and this means inside the speakers there will be some amount of circuitry between the two inputs, so you would not be simply chaining them together this way. So it could work, but you are off the beaten bath and it very well might not work.

Instead, I would use splitter cables. (Incidentally, what you have now is technically not a splitter. It is a breakout cable because the two connectors on one end are connected to different things on the other end.) There are basically 3 ways you could do this:

• Get RCA male to dual RCA female splitter cables (like this -- you will need two of them) and plug one into the RCA input of each speaker. Then run male RCA to male RCA cables (like these) between speakers.
  
• Similarly, get RCA female to dual RCA male cables (like this -- again, you will need two), and use them with RCA extension cables (like this).
  
• Alternatively, split the cable while it is still 3.5mm (with a cable like this) and then get another 3.5mm to dual RCA breakout cable like you already have.
  
  The first method uses the splitter cable "backwards" but that doesn't really matter, and RCA male-to-male cables are easier to find than extension cables (like the second method). The cables for the last method are available very widely but it might be more or less convenient depending on how you want to place the speakers and route the cables.

For the best audio experience per dollar I think it's best to go with proper headphones and a mic attachment. This is my set-up: Philips SHP9500S HiFi Precision Stereo Over-ear Headphones (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CVw-Bb0YE7XTY and for the mic Aux Cable, Tsumbay Audio Cable with Microphone and in-line Control, 3.5mm Male to Male Cable Headphone Cable Premium Nylon Auxiliary Cord for Headphones, PS4, Home/Car Stereos (1m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LWw-BbMK5EC8V. I see that the headphones have been discontinued so they're super expensive now but the idea is that any pair of good headphones (with detachable 3.5mm cable) will do.

Unless space is at a premium I would not recommend those speakers. 14 watts per channel is pretty low, and that 50 hz to 20 khz looks misleading based on some reviewer comments. I basically don't believe they will give an accurate frequency response unless the sound is very low. I have seen the following recommended here before:
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU

http://www.amazon.com/LP-2020A-Lepai-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368495289&sr=1-1&keywords=amp

Don't forget speaker wire: http://www.amazon.com/RCA-AH16100SR-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire/dp/B0029HHIDY/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_y

And an audio cable: http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MU3MMS-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio/dp/B004G3UK5C/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368496306&sr=1-5&keywords=aux+audio+cable

I can't vouch for those myself, but I would be willing to bet that they will be much better than any "computer speakers" in a similar price range. I have cambridge soundworks model 6's which are over your budget but I can vouch for. Worth every penny. Everyone notices how nice the sound is immediately.

Running an AUX/Line Level signal (aka one from a phone/laptop) into a mic input isn't best SOP, but it is doable - you'll want a cable like this - just be careful not to have the output on the laptop or any of the volume controls on the PA turned up too loud or you'll damage the system.

Can you link the details of the PA/manual you're using please, there may be a better solution.

You're going to end up with a mess of adapters but it's possible:

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=br_lf_m_ceuun2nq7wpk4e9_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=aht

​

Each of these will need a male - female adapter.

​

Might just be easier to use a seperate mic into your phone. The mic built-into the free headphones that came with your phone will probably be a similar quality to your gaming headset's. Just clip that need your collar and don't bother using the headphones themselves.

Something like this might work for you. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMM232-6-Inch-Adapter-Male-Dual/dp/B000068O5G

It's meant to work the opposite way, but it seems like it would work the way you want better.

I don’t know much about console because I’m mostly a PC gamer but I would try the following things:

1. Get a high quality HDMI cable or just a different one and see if you still have issues.
   
   
2. Use the headphone jack on the console and split the audio — one to your PC and one to your headphones. If you use this method you might need a DAC to amplify the signal before the split. I’ve also found the line splitter sometimes cause noise so you can get a ground loop eliminator.
   
   I would have suggested you switch from on board sound or update your sound drivers but your on a console.
   
   Here’s the splitters, cables, and ground loop eliminator I use:
   
   Splitter - KabelDirekt Pro Series Y Stereo Splitter - 1 x 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female - Y Cable Splitter Produces Equal Audio Output for Headphones, Earphones, and Speakers (0.5ft, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWcxCbK4KWTBN
   
   3.5 to 3.5 - KabelDirekt Pro Series 10 feet ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI88X32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   GL Eliminator - PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   This setup works for me because I use a sound blaster AE5 and the headphone jack already has an amp in it.
   
   You might try something like this:
   
   Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t0cxCbPH562B6
   
   So hook up from headphone console output to 4 channel stereo amp input. Then. One out cable to headphone and the other cable to LINE IN on PC and then separate the audio from elgato in OBS
   
   

• good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I’m not a super expert but was able to self resolve most of my audio issues. In my case the skipping was because my PC built in audio sucked and once I switched to a sound blast AE-5 my issues started to disappear. I know that’s not possible on console :/

I don't know about using two headset mics concurrently, so I can't offer much help there. But you could always do a two mic setup hardware wise, and have that go into your mic port. The best solution would be with a mini-mixer so you could control the levels of each mic separately before it hits your computer. Or if you're going the cheap route, you could always just try a Y adapter. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMM232-6-Inch-Adapter-Male-Dual/dp/B000068O5G

Thanks a ton for the reply, I'm definitely looking into Craig/DC. Quick (newbie) question, what is the advantage of the dual XLR cable over just the single input one like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMITC7G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's what you're looking for on the U.S. Amazon web site. It's available in 3, 6, 10 & 15-foot lengths.

Hopefully, you can use the information on this page to find it on another country's Amazon site.

This appears to be the same product on the UK site.

This appears to be the same product on the French site.

This appears to be the same product on the German site.

OK, I'm done.

If you don't need the inline volume and mute options with the cable, any 3.5mm trrs male to 3.5mm trrs male should do the trick, providing the connector housing is slim and fits into the slot.

This looks like it would fit (based on a trs cable that that looks about that size and fits into mine), but this looks like it might be too bulky to fit the slot.

Bit of a price difference between those, but you should be able to find something cheaper with that slim type connector.

That's a little bit more on the tricky side.

Unless Sony has started to allow their music player to function while streaming, which for all I know they could have(you'll have to play around with that yourself), your best option is to get a Male-to-2xFemale 3.5mm splitter cable, and merge the audio from a second device into your mic input. Or, if you're still going to go the silent route, just plug your iPad/laptop directly into the mic jack.


I recommend not playing any licensed music for what should be obvious reasons, even if it's just for friends, but there are plenty of resources for free, royalty-free music out there.

To be more explicit, they really, really don't like you using licensed music. If Twitch detects licensed music, it will totally mute the audio for as long as the song plays, when you play the archive back, and you run the risk of being reported and having the stream shut down. YouTube is even more aggressive and will totally kill your stream, sometimes permanently, and if it manages to slip through, the VOD will be plastered with ads and be subject to takedowns.

I recommend FreeMusicArchive, I've found a lot of amazing tracks on there, albeit with a bit of digging. The license conditions should be followed, i.e. attribution, and I personally have a list of all music I use when streaming when I go live, but nobody is really going to check that unless you intentionally go way out of your way to offend the artist.

Buy a trrs to trrs cable, like this one. Cut the cable a few inches away from the plug and strip the wires, then use a multimeter or something to identify which wire goes where. Because the jack is already wired you'll have a lot more room to work with, making it much easier than trying to solder directly to a new jack.

The hard part is identifying which wire from the headphones goes to each contact on the jack. If you can get the old jack back from your friend that would help a lot. If not, you might have to just do trial and error until it works. This diagram might help.

Cool. Thanks a bunch for the information. Very helpful!

Does it matter what type of audio cables I buy e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ugreen-Housing-Theater-Devices-Amplifiers/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485353798&sr=8-3&keywords=3.5+mm+to+3.5+mm

I haven't used the 630, but I think it has a 1/4 in. stereo output? You could probably use cable like this one. Connect it to a line in port on your pc. If the output of that keyboard is amplified, it might distort the sound, although there are probably ways of compensating for it (I don't know how though).

That's what I did to connect my old Roland to my pc, although I had individual line outs for L, R, and headphones. (L and R were not amplified)

Another option is using a DAW to reconstruct your playing from the midi, adding sustain, etc.

So back in the day, aux inputs were either a pair of RCA for left and right (still true on large stereos) or mono 1/8" (3.5mm) jacks.

You'll need a special Y cable that breaks out to two mono 3.5mm jacks from whatever stereo source you have.

It may be easier just to use RCA to 3.5mm mono adapters with a conventional left and right RCA to stereo 3.5mm Y cable.

EDIT! I found the cable you need if you're connecting a phone or PC: https://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout-AM-603C/dp/B0759Z1QCP/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1520762412&sr=8-9&keywords=dual+3.5mm+mono+to+3.5mm+stereo

Pretty dumb question here. I have a Scarlett 2i4 and a Prophet 12, if I use a cable like THIS ONE and have the prophet outputting into one of the inputs on the scarlett, the sound is a bit weird and things go missing/super quiet. From what I understand this is due to an unbalanced output on the prophet and a balanced input on the interface.

It works fine If I have two TSR cables running from each output (left/right) on the prophet into both inputs on the interface. Is this the only way to get the sound from this guy? Ideally I'd like to have a 2nd input on the interface available for another synth. Thanks!

Wow, I actually agree with PM for once, the original post seems greatly exaggerated. Go up with the instructor one more time, buy one of these and record you flight along with ATC audio and post it so we can hear it.
Recorder https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOXNSRY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio Cable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O35/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

y-cable / splitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O56/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which GoPro do you have? In any case you can find ready made adapters that will get you your radio/intercom audio on the video but they're all way overpriced in my opinion (~$50). You can do it yourself for way cheaper. If you have an older GoPro that has a 3.5mm audio port you can just get something like this and this and you'd be all set. Just run the cable from the splitter into your GoPro mic port (if you don't have a passenger just plug the cable straight into that side for better audio and don't use the splitter). If you have a new GoPro like I do that has the USB mic port you'll need this too.

Full disclosure I haven't had an opportunity to try this yet in the airplane but I see no reason why it wouldn't work perfectly.

yea, I looked at the picture too. Just saw, tho, that it says "line 1" at the first input, and the stackexchange link I posted the guy said that most interfaces can deal with both line and mic level inputs.

So I think just take one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-mm-5FT-Stereo-Male-to-Male-M-M-Jack-Audio-Cord-Cable-PC-MP3-Adapter-/220929430795?hash=item33706b950b:g:6FgAAOxypthRxBlj

and one of these: http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

and connect your amp's headphone out to the line1 input (the input looks unusual cos it takes both XLR and 7mm jacks, just plug the jack into the hole in the middle ^(THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!).

if you want/have to try the stereo thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Female-to-2-Male-Headphone-Mic-Audio-Y-Splitter-Cable-/371032023866 get this and 2 of the adapters (or a split thingy with 7mm jacks) and connect your amp's headphone out to both inputs - then you'll have one channel (of the 2 stereo channels) in each input, which you can then either record as one stereo track or 2 mono tracks in Cubase .

But definitely try to connect the headphone out to your PC/sound card's line in (cutting out the behringer) - if you like the sound that's way easier.

Hmm this is tricky, this is how I would do it based on what you provide.

• Take the audio out from the game sound PC by using the headphone output and using this kind of cable. Another cleaner path is using a USB audio interface like a Peavey USB-P. I would plug in to channels 11/12. If you're using something like a Peavey USB-P, you'll need to use two XLR cables and two mic channels on the mixer, be sure to pan hard LR when you use this route.
  
  
• You'll need a headphone amp that can provide more than one output, similar to something like a Behringer AMP800. Once you get that, plug in to the mixer via PHONES using this cable.
  
  
• Plug in the headset mic inputs to mic channels 1 & 2. If you know how to use the compressor, insert using this cable.
  
  
• Output the mixer via USB to your twitch streaming PC, set the mic to the mackie USB option.
  
  Am I missing anything?

Perfect. Yeah, something like this should do the trick. I don't know about the quality of the particular one I linked to, so make sure to check them out yourself.

Do the speakers also have a 3.5mm TRS plug like your headphones? Or are they only connected to the computer via USB?

If they're USB-only, they should have their own separate device in the Sound window, and you could probably use Audio Router to accomplish what you want.

If they have a 3.5mm TRS plug, the software for your sound card is in charge of deciding which jack the audio goes to, so if it doesn't have an option to duplicate the output to multiple jacks, you can't do it, but you could just use a splitter to accomplish the same thing.

Awesome, thank you very much for the suggestion! I found a Xenyx 1002FX for about $50 on some local classifieds. She doesn't have a laptop yet but maybe I'll look at the 502 usb so she can use it when she gets a laptop.

​

It might be a noob question but what cord would she need to plug the volca into the mixer? It looks like it would need to be a 1/8 male split to 1/4 left and right like this cord.

Plug the Mixer via USB into the Computer.
Then plug the Mic into Channel One and do the adjustements of high/mid/low until you are satisfied with your voice (do recordings with Audacity for example). After that, turn the red knob (FX) full open on Channel One and every other red knob on the Channels 2 3/4 and 5/6 fully closed (0).
Then you have a choice:
If your Soundboard has a optical out, use this with a optical to analog converter to bring the sound from your PC to the Mixer. (Optical out -> Converter -> Line in 3/4 of the Mixer). Since I'm in Germany I can't give you the proper names for the cable, in german the cable from the converter to the Mixer is this: [cinch zu 6,3mm Klinke] (https://www.amazon.de/Stagg-STC6PCM-Twin-Kabel-Meter/dp/B004EBKV1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480056712&sr=8-1&keywords=cinch+kabel+zu+6%2C3mm).
If your board hasn't a Optical out, you need a cable like this plugged into your line out (green) of the Soundcard and the Line In 3/4 of the Mixer. Then go and configure your overall Sound (Voice, PC Audio) in OBS until you are satisfied. Your dedicated Sound Device should be your USB Mixer.
If you're done, plug a cable like this from the FX Send on the Mixer into your Mic In (red) of the Computer. In Discord/TS or your VOIP Software, use your Mic-In as the Microphone, not the USB Mixer, the volume of the Mic can be controlled with the red knob on Channel 1. And that's it...
OBS gets your full Sound with PC-Audio and Voice, but in the VOIP Software, only your Voice is heard.

You should get studio headphones(you can also use anything else but those give the best sound imo), then you need one of these https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY , then you plug your headphone jack into that thing, and plug that into your amp. Your amp probably has an input where it says "PHONE" or "HEADPHONE". You plug it in there, turn your volume up and start jamming.

I use this one. It's really quite simple but make sure you have a good power source for your pedals.

Jim knows what you're looking for, OP.

I've found the parts you'll want to get as well. It's definitely a real budget set up, but it'll get you started.

Phono preamp

Patch cable (from phono to iHome)

Just plug the turntable into the phono input, then use the patch cable to go from the phono's output and into your iHome, and you're good to go.

If you wire the speaker outputs to the 1/4 inch inputs on the interface you will probably blow something. The headphone output would be the best option. You could use a cable like this directly.

You’ll need a 1/4-inch breakout cable like one of these, these, and these. Figure out which ones work best for your setup and fill both holes on both sides. Red is right. Black is left.

what you're describing doesn't sound right. sounds like there's something putting strain on the cable. i would try something like this http://www.amazon.com/Valley-Reinforced-Premium-Quality-payment/dp/B00C4FU52C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398290312&sr=8-2&keywords=3.5mm+extension+6+inch between your laptop and headphones. the angled head will probably work better anyway and if it does still break it's less expensive than a new pair of cans.

I'm not looking for headphones, but I don't feel like this deserves its own thread. I want to plug in my Sennheiser Momentum IEMs into my Magni 2 because I want to use them to listen to music on my PC and the cable doesn't reach my computer. Plus I like the volume dial.

Would something like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

Yes. My alternative is the G6 which I intended to use with my xbox initially. I bought it before noticing the E5's issue. So now it naturally replaced the E5's role as the main audio processor for my PC's setup.

I think E5 is the only model that has two 3.5mm output jacks. To solve this problem I simply get a Y splitter like this one here: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GN76HAG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OP you could use this. I used it for my reason stated below in response to someone else. It's two standard 3.5mm male to a single 3.5mm input jack for speakers or headphones. Worked great.

>Couldn't he use this...? I used to do this to hook up my Xbox and my PC to one set of Logitech computer speakers. Worked fine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I98ZYG?pc_redir=1412264162&robot_redir=1

I decided against digikey and went with a combo of Amazon and Ebay. Here's the parts I bought:

>Cheap trrs cable from amazon $5.69

>100 M2 screws from amazon $4.99

>50 M2 spacers from ebay for $4.49

>200 diodes from ebay $3.29

>70 gateron blue switches from switchtop.co for $22.75


I bought 2 pro micros from ebay and 1 from amazon just because I had amazon giftcards and might use the extra pro micro for a numpad.
>pro micro from amazon $8.70

>2 pro micro from ebay $10.98

Yeah, that's the wrong cable. You have a stereo 3.5mm (TRS / Tip Ring Sleeve) to XLR. - Not going to work!

The XLR input on any "pro" speaker is meant for balanced mono cables (like a microphone cable), its not stereo.

The 3 wires inside a balanced XLR connector are for a (mono) "Hot, Cold and Earth" signal, not stereo "Left, Right and Ground" signal as in a consumer headphone jack. Totally different animal. You're shorting out the signal by using that adapter.

----------------

First off - do you have one or two EONs?


If you only have one mono speaker, you could use a 3.5mm mono to 2 conductor 1/4" TS (Tip Sleeve) plug

• https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-Mono-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I/
  
  If you had two EONs, then you'd use a 3.5mm TRS stereo plug to DUAL 1/4" TS cables (a 'Y' adapter of sorts, to carry both left and right channels - one to each speaker).
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6
  
  --------------
  
  And yes, you SHOULD have some sort of volume control in the middle to manage the volume - you could get a cheaper passive "pre-amp" - meaning you can cut the volume, but the line level will never go higher than the source's level - (your laptop). If you're fine with no volume controller, skip this next part...
  
  (You would need to get different cables to go from these volume controller to the JBLs, depending on what you decide to do.)
  
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/JBL-NPATCH-BLK-2-Channel-Controller/dp/B01I3B0OH6/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-MONITOR1-BEHRINGER/dp/B0752XXRQH/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Controller-2x2-KNOB-Passive/dp/B01NCUZ32O
  
  I really don't recommend an "active" monitor controller, because they'd be overkill for you, I doubt you'd use all the extra features.
  
  
  --------------
  
  Another idea is an inexpensive DAW interface - This Behringer would negate the need to plug in your laptop via the 3.5mm jack like you're trying to do now. Just plug in the USB cable and it shows up as a native USB audio device. The volume is on the front.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6/
  
  (You would need to pick up (2) 1/4" to 1/4" TS (unbalanced) or TRS (balanced) mono cables from the interface out to the 2 speaker inputs)
  
  
  -----------------
  
  Ultimately, I recommend a desk mixer to control the JBLs. This would make it much easier to patch a feed from your laptop (or phone, or whatever) into the mixer, and have it all controlled from there.
  
  Some even have EQ's on the line inputs to tweak the sound, some have USB interfaces built in too.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-Mix-Mix5-5-Channel-Mixer/dp/B00ND1K8T6/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-MG06-6-Input-Compact-Stereo/dp/B00I2J4WJG/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q502USB-Xenyx/dp/B00CTKI10A/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Q802USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B008O517IC/

Hah yep I use pretty much the exact same type of speaker for this. It's just a crosley radio (no bluetooth) with aux in, though.

So yeah I would do the Schiit stack then get a RCA to 3.5mm cable like this or this which would feed from the back of the Vali to the B2. If you're not wanting to listen to it through the speaker you can just turn off the B2, or select a different input (bluetooth?).

Alternatively, you could skip the RCA output and just use a 3.5mm male to female aux cable + 1/4in adapter out of the headphone output.. which would go to an Aux cable you leave connected to the B2. Just switch between that aux cord and your headphones out of the headphone port.

I just use the headphone output, but as I type this I remember I saw I had a RCA to 3.5mm cable last night so might switch it.

I think I'm about to make your day.


The El Cap CAN be "converted" to a stereo input: I use mine that way on my board. All you have to do is buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then, before you connect it, open the pedal and change one jumper like it shows here:

http://www.strymon.net/faq/enable-trs-stereo-input-deco/

Done. Now you can just take the stereo outs of your 720 to your two amps.

One thing to note though: I have 3 Strymon pedals run this way (deco, flint and el cap) and for 2 out of the 3, the Hosa cable I got was fine on one input, but the other would NOT let me plug in my lava cable tightrope cable. Probably won't be an issue for you, but it was a giant issue for me.

Anyhow, I hope this helps you.

I'd guess that your headphone jack adapter is mono, not stereo, which would explain the sound coming out of only one side.

Luckily a stereo adapter shouldn't be too hard to get, something like this maybe?

https://www.amazon.ca/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

it needs to be powered.

you can buy something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-IR-Repeater-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS/

and replace the emitter end with a straight 3.5mm cable like this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MU3MMS-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio/dp/B004G3UK5C/

Yes. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01552UGSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works. You have to do the following: 1) plug extension cable in the phone without headphone 2) insert headphone 3) enjoy

Startech is a low end brand, its likely its just noisy. its not intended to be super high quality or anything.

at least something with the 15 cents worth of gold plating on it. like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN76HAG?tag=quake-vlab-20

Yes if you get a different cord they should work. I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXD5SKN?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf and they worked but there’s probably better cables out there.

ok so. mic comes with xlr to xlr. plug that to



neewer 48v https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014H8AWGC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3A00RPL943XFO


to

preamp https://www.amazon.com/ART-TubeMP-Tube-Microphone-Preamp/dp/B0002GZZNY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485455414&sr=8-1&keywords=ART+Tube+Preamps


preamp to xlr / 3.5mm :https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-5mm-Inch-Feet/dp/B00QMITC7G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485456129&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5mm+xlr



to 3.5 mm female to two female : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EFPYYCG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2JSBUBRVPP4SX

both 3.5mm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EA77952/ref=ox_sc_sfl_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Y2JY7NYB2QUH


to devices? Like that?

I really think its something to do with the cable you are using to connect the splitter. When you tried the presonus, did you go into both R and L inputs? Are you using a 1/4 adapter? Is your cable TRS for sure at both ends?

It sounds to me like the cable you're using might be TS on one end. It needs to be TRS. For the Presonus you'll want one of these. For the Behringer you need one of these.

What I think you are using is one of these.

Looks like that interface has a stereo input, so you'd need to daisy chain and sync your POs in order to record them at the same time (aux cable from output of one to input of the other).

Then you'd connect a cable like the one linked below to your POs output (sorry on mobile can't see a better way to link), and plug the white jack into the left input on your interface and the red jack into right input.

That ought to do it, your interface seems pretty old but assuming you have the right drivers etc it should be fine.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Splitter-Interface-Instrument-Amplifier/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6

Interesting. If they aren't working while plugged in via the cord my guess is because it appears the cord is only a TRS cable which does not pass along any mic signal, just ground + left + right. This leads me to believe that while in passive mode the mic is inactive. You could of course test it with a trrs cable but I don't see why they wouldn't ship with one if it worked.

Edit: a word.

Edit 2: if I'm right then something like this should get you talking

Don't know if it would solve your problem, but I ordered this TRSS cable to force the DAC into high impedance and it sounds much better. But in general, I have no idea what I'm doing with this phone, and probably should have gotten a Jitterbug. So take my advice with a grain of salt. FosPower (4 Inch) 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Auxiliary 4-Conductor TRRS Stereo Audio Extension Cable [24K Gold Plated Connectors] for Apple, Samsung, Motorola, HTC, Nokia, LG, Sony & More

Edit: XDA fiscussion: Different modes in the Quad Dac?

Edit2: You may be able to find a TRRS cable at Sam Ash or Guitar Center locally at most certainly an inflated price.

You could have used something like this for ages. Or something like this

are you talking about something like this? thank you.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FJEGXLW/ref=pd_aw_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K0YB5QNFJEHAW0QDE52B&dpPl=1&dpID=51SPGvHouYL

You need this kind of aux cable. If you check your aux cable I bet it only has 3 rings. This has 4. The 4th ring is for the microphone access on the phone. I also use the Astro mix amp and headset for discord on my PS4. I can chat and still hear the game fine. Hope this helps

I should add that I use the A40 tr pro headset and mix amp. Not sure how different the two are.

Ok so I looked it up. It does look like it has an 3.5 aux port so I'm guessing this would work.

I use something like this or the opposite of that 1/4" to 3.5mm depending on which cables im using at the time.

I use the no_cable patch and it works fine. USB cables may perform better, but ive never tried, and the cables I use work fine for practicing in RS and goofing off in session mode.

Ok, I think I understand and understand the difference between balanced and unbalanced.

So I believe that this should work: Hosa Mono Interconnect 3.5 Mm Ts to 1/4 in Ts 10ft https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000068O3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NHI5Cb32KPWTN

Thanks

USB sound card -> Headphone cable splitter, done.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
+
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Pro-Stereo-Splitter-Headphones/dp/B00GN76HAG/

(both were just first hits on Amazon, feel free to choose similar device replacements).

If your amp has AUX in and headphone out jacks, voila! But it probably doesn't, so here we are.

Audio interfaces, mixers, portastudios, etc. are great for this. The cable solution you posted is not good for this. You'd want something like this for your splitting pleasure. One male end to the headphone jack of your amp, one male end to the input of your ipod/computer and headphones into the female end (as you proposed). BUT, instead of the stereo signal being split by using the splitter you posted (music in one ear, bass in the other), this splitter would keep it all stereo.

Some time ago I became aware of this http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMP310-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O3I/ cable and I've since bought a bunch of them. I use them for ferrying audio between the Volcas, MS-20 and 1/4" jacks, and for getting CV out of my Analog Four.

I think the output jack is worth keeping on the front panel since you can easily repatch the output to come through the ESP this way. Patching the main out to the ESP in lets you send the post-bandpass output to the HPF Ext In for some great filter feedback overdrive, but in this case you have to send audio out of the synth from the pre-bandpass ESP output.

Kid you not I was just reading the above forum post 5 minutes ago. I just finished buying the wires so here are links to the wires needed.

[CTIA Y-Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D6NPH88/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A6W0O8DQ2720N)

[Headset Splitter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DOWH6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AHV9ORYOUKPWW)

[Stereo Y-Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BB4GUC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

[RCA Stereo Audio Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0032JAG4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AEKEXTXL2B213)

I also purchased a replacement headset wire, if you are interested in this as well here is the [link] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FJEGXLW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1SHTSJSJQA89P)

Yo, I think I also found what you're looking for on amazon.

It's a 2x TRRS(mic+audio) aux cable and comes with Prime if you have it. Hope this helps.

http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-foot-3-5mm-conductor/dp/B00FJEGXLW

You can temporarily resolve the issue by purchasing this connector. It is an extension with a right angle that has alleviated the issue for me.

LG has neither addressed this issue nor the issue with horizontal screen stretching. It's a shame, really, given how amazing everything else is on the phone. Of course, it's still fairly new and it seems that every device is prone to some issues in the very beginning. Consumers have become unwitting beta testers for companies that don't exactly have the most complete quality control standards.

Lots of posts about this. The simplest solution is to use an extension to your earplug/headset cord. I use this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C, and it works 100% of the time. So will any other TRRS cable: Note the 4 metal areas on the plug, separated by 3 plastic rings. That's all it takes! I also picked the dustball out of the jack using a straight pin.

Well obviously you need the proper cables or adapters to go from the PO's stereo 3.5mm/1/8" output to the guitar pedal's mono 6.35mm/1/4" input. I would personally use a 1/8" stereo to dual 1/4" Y-cable like this because I happen to have a bunch of them already. But there are any number of solutions.

As for switching on the pedal... it needs to be powered and connected. The "on" switch is the foot toggle on the front. RTFM?

That should be fine. It's possible to find it as a single cable too:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PCBL43FT6-Stereo-Y-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G87FLY/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358512&sr=1-16

You may find you get a lot of hum or buzz, more than you do listening to the PC alone. This is probably caused by a difference in the ground between the PC and mixer. These sorts of devices can then be a very helpful addition:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358835&sr=1-8&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HEM-462-Eliminator-Audio-Integration/dp/B0042ZVZZ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358647&sr=1-1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

I just use a a standard 3.5mm to 1/4" adapter like this:https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY and it works fine.

I think you need this? SmartEra 3.5mm Female to 2 Male Gold Plated Headphone Mic Audio Y Splitter Flat Cable(Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0oToDb8XAESVF

Or something like it. Seems like a strange setup.

Just bought one last week for breaking out sync/start messages from a BSP - 3ft CablesOnline 3.5mm Stereo Male to Dual (Rd/Wh) Mono 3.5mm Blue Audio Breakout Cable, AM-603C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759Z1QCP/

ETA that I don’t know that Clouds will drive headlines directly. It’s output impedance is going to be pretty high compared to most headphones.

What you'd end up with is a stereo cable with a tip/ring/sleeve (stereo) 1/4" jack on one end, and split to two mono 1/4" jacks on the other end. Something like this one.

Then the two mono ends would go into something like this Morley ABY pedal. They'd go in the A and B, take the out from the middle to your PA. You then can switch between the two channels, or have the option to have both summed (though no balance control between the two... you'd need a small mixer to do that...)

You know you could get something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Valley-Reinforced-Premium-Quality-payment/dp/B00C4FU52C

and not worry about the cheap extension plug wearing out.

Hot diggity dog! I was going to write a post about this, but decided to bite the bullet and write a post confirming that they worked instead... unfortunately, I screwed up and ordered the thing to the wrong place, so I might not get the post out before Spla2n comes out.

From my research (keep in mind I'm not an audio engineer or electronic magician), using a Y-splitter is a horrible idea. From a Tom's Hardware post:

> The problem with connecting 2 outputs together is they can try to drive one another.

>So it MAY work, but it may sound like hell and be bad for the computers. Adding some resistance can prevent then from driving one another, but will cut the output volume.

Using a Y splitter could also cause the devices to short each other out.

I was able to find a few devices that seem to work, that I didn't know existed beforehand, both from reviews and other forum discussions. These devices [1], [2], [3], allow you to connect any number of input and output devices together. However, they are only 3 pole, not 4 pole (probably, like I said, I don't have one yet), which means you'll have to have a separate connectors for each instance of audio you wish to hear, and audio you want to record, separately. Fortunately for us, Y-splitters do have a use, combining a headphone and mic into one plug, but you have to make sure the y-splitter has 2 female and 1 male (4 pole) connections, like this [4].

I made some drawings of how this would work. Each line is an aux or audio cable, I'm sure everyone here is smart enough to figure which is which for themselves:

• Computer, Headset and Mic separate connections, uses 2 jacks (1 headphone, 1 microphone)
  
  
  
• Computer, plugging Switch into line in, requires 3 jacks (1 headphone, 1 microphone, 1 line-in), or 1 jack (1 line-in) if using a USB headset. Must enable "listen to this device". Probably the best solution for playing with PC chat, does not require the "many device" splitter.
  
  
• Phone, requires 2female/1male y-splitter
  
  This is all theoretical, of course. Safest route is probably using line-in if you're ok with sitting at your computer (uses a lot less cables, too), but this is in most cases a cheaper solution than buying a "real" mixer (even a cheap one, and this doesn't solve our voice chat problem in most cases, just our "all audio one one device" problem), cheaper than the Splatoon headset, and probably cheaper than just the Splatoon mixer itself.

From what I see 1/8th works with both 3.5 and 3.175, I couldn't find any 3.175 but I found something like this. Is that seriously all I will need to do what I want to do?

Actually, just for good measure, here's the cable I use between my phone and the H6:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMITC7G?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The M50x seems to come with 3.5mm cables. The scarlett seems to have a 1/4 input for headphones on the right. Will I need an adapter? Like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAVOW00/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VMQDY5N961JZ

Like this?

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=314600398085783127&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004214&hvtargid=pla-319814649008&psc=1

Does your headphone/mic have four separations on a single plug? If so, you'll need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=asc_df_B01ABRS00S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198062682203&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15985995701149216869&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027645&hvtargid=pla-319814649008&psc=1

I had a thought. would something like this work?

​

3.5mm Stereo Male to Dual (Rd/Wh) Mono 3.5mm

​

this is how my satellite speakers look

​

[Sat speaker connection](https://i.imgur.com/OhBcZSQ.jpg)

​

and the 3.5 mono wire that end in speaker wire

​

[3.5 mono wire](https://i.imgur.com/f10FEGd.jpg)

There’s a few things you could do. What I think would be the easiest is getting two items, a dual mono to single balanced quarter inch “y” cable, like this one and plug it into a simple headphone amp like this for example

You could try something like a 1/4" breakout cable and run your output to an amp or powered speaker. You'd also want a couple of these.

True. I've been using a h1 zoom recorder i have for a mic that i didn't purchase for pc voip(but it works great). If didn't have that i would use this mic with this to keep under 200.

One note is that most mixers like this use 1/4 inch mono jacks instead of 3.5mm stereo cables.

If you're willing to spend $20-30 on splitter cables, you have more options for small/portable/cheap mixers.

Splitter cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G87FLY/

It depends on the amp. If it has a headphone out or aux out, yes. Some amps have a 1/4" headphone out, which would require an adapter for the typical headphone.

Yes. I own them. You would need a 3.5mm to TRS adapter to plug them up to your computer: https://.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Compatible-Computer-Multimedia/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/

You might not be able to find them in a shop because there is now a newer model out.

Yes. You would need to use one of these in order to hear each channel independently, however.

Here's the first option simplified a bit:

One of these stereo 1/8" splitter (Y) cables.

Two of these 1/8" to RCA cables. Be sure to choose the correct length.

Plug the Y cable into your PC speaker output, the other two connect to it and then to your speakers.

I'm pretty confused about your picture if your going a mixer route though, as different mixers alone could solve all 3 of your needs/wants. Let me ask this instead: are you just trying to switch just your mic? are you recording your ps4 gameplay/sound? (i'm wondering why you want to run your ps4 audio through pc) i'll suggest these items then along with adding a detailed picture of how I'd set it up:

trrs spliter: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC

that mixer: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C

1/4 to 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Plated-Stereo-6-35mm-Meters/dp/B01JY2DD9Y

trs switch: https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3

(x2) 3.5mm cables: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73Q84/

(x2) ST splitters: https://www.amazon.com/iXCC-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B07259J93F

PS4 usb audio: https://www.amazon.com/KOTION-External-Headset-Adapter-Laptops/dp/B07DRF9TPC

(x2) 3.5mm adapters: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/

Note: you can get cheaper alternatives to every item i listed from any othersite besides that mixer. Any mixer that has an FX Send/Aux Send will work.

​

https://imgur.com/a/hPTPcnj


you can negate the switch entirely if you just want to use knobs on a 2-aux send mixer.

You should be able to run both, but the problem is that only one device can be used for playback (audio output) and a seperate /the same device can be used for recording (audio input). I don't think you can use two devices to output audio at the same time, possibly with some software you could, but a simpler solution would be a splitter, that splits a single 3.5mm sterio audio signal output into two, it's a small cable. I use one to have both my headset and speakers plugged into my single soundcard output simultaneously.

Something like this will work: https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Stereo-Splitter-3-5mm-Female/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=sr_1_15/146-3666932-9128304?ie=UTF8&qid=1498065709&sr=8-15&keywords=3.5mm+splitter

That sucks! I found mine hiding in the original box. Here it is on Amazon, you might be able to find one at your local guitar shop too :)

I'm fairly certain that the sync cable is a standard stereo audio male to male 2.5mm jack (that's the smaller kind).

Edit: Okay maybe not standard since I can't find them but perhaps two of these and one of these might work?

I found these cables on Amazon, one seems to work for the purpose I'm going for while two doesn't. I'm really confused.

Cable 1

Cable 2

It's called a Y cable, or a TRS cable (tip ring sleeve). Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP-117-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O54/ref=pd_sim_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000068O54&pd_rd_r=71fcbdee-f204-11e8-ac6d-e5cddbbd9c33&pd_rd_w=PWP0P&pd_rd_wg=Oys25&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=R4F6BF2FBW4ECJ0WGC2J&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=R4F6BF2FBW4ECJ0WGC2J

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483618943&sr=8-3&keywords=audio+splitter+jack

> But every 1x 3.5mm female to 2x 3.5mm male I see online splits it into audio (green) and mic (pink).

That's because you're looking for TRRS splitters. You need TRS to 2x TRS like that link.

I had a similar issue... I have hdmi to monitor, and monitor outputs to speakers, so I just switch HDMI when I want to go from pc to switch...

But... if you want both hooked up to audio simultaneously, here you go -

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Male-Female-inch/dp/B000I98ZYG

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40405-Female-Extension/dp/B001AN0E7K

Get those, it will allow to connect both the monitor and pc to the speakers at the same time. you will need that extension cable because the combiners cords are short.

Ok, so based on your situation, I would recommend buying a 3.5mm splitter and a Optical-to-3.5mm DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Speaker-and-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B000067RC4/

https://www.amazon.com/Amanka-Digital-Optical-Analog-Converter/dp/B01N2Z21IS/

The 3.5mm splitter is so that your speakers can accept two inputs. One from your TV and one from your Apple TV. The DAC is to convert the optical to 3.5mm analog audio when connecting your Apple TV to the speakers.

This way, your game console and Apple TV can both use the 2.1 speaker set and nothing needs to use the built-in TV speakers.

The only sticking point is that you will need to have the TV on mute anytime you are watching content on the Apple TV. Is that a problem?

Edit: My mistake, this is actually the type of 3.5mm splitter you want, not the other one:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG

You need two male plugs, not two female.

Something like This it splits one 3.5mm jack into two. One for voice one for sound.

It looks like there should be 2 headphone jacks on the front-left of the piano. They're probably 1/4" jacks, so you'll either need to have headphones with a 1/4" plug, or you'll need an adapter like this to connect most common headphones.

Sometimes the jacks wear out or the plug isn't tight enough. You can get a short extension cable like this.

Try something like this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C4FU52C/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1393993426&sr=1-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

This is all you need to play from your phone or computer. Remember to start with the volume all the way down so you don’t blast yourself.

Cable Matters (1/8 Inch) 3.5mm to XLR Cable (XLR to 3.5mm Cable) Male to Male 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMITC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dINZBbMG6KCEP

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_MFM5CbEW68TS0 like this?

You're going to need a 1/8 inch (3.5 mm) to 1/4 inch adaptor, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aurum-Cables-3-Pack-6-35mm-Adapter/dp/B00XAVOW00/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501715668&sr=8-4&keywords=3.5+mm+to+1%2F4+inch+adapter

Something like this I think, if it let's you select line vs instrument level. Choose line (or mic). The TRS end should work.

UGREEN 6.35mm 1/4" Male to 3.5mm 1/8" Male TRS Stereo Audio Cable with Zinc Alloy Housing and Nylon Braid for iPod, Laptop,Home Theater Devices, and Amplifiers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5QzNBb105G6P2

1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm (1/4)" Maybe something like this.

Exactly. something like this would work

I'd recommend FosPower (4 Inch) 3.5mm Male to 3.5mm Female Auxiliary 4-Conductor TRRS Stereo Audio Extension Cable [24K Gold Plated Connectors] for Apple, Samsung, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01552UGSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_VuAw35yDZua9S

Does your headset have a TRRS (tip-ring-ring-sleeve, 3 rings) cable or individual mic (red) and headphone (green) cables? If you have TRRS, it may not work and you will have to use an adapter like this.

The front jacks are only output or input, not both at once like phone jacks are. A simple headphone/microphone splitter should work. For example: https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S

Is it something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h5L1BbYQ21QSB

You'll need somthing like this: https://www.amazon.com/SmartEra-Female-Plated-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B01ABRS00S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1520961870&sr=8-7&keywords=headphone+mic+cable

as long as Mic/Headphones are two separate jacks

So my work won’t let me spend $30 on an aux cable. I found this on amazon. Would you recommend the beats replacement over these?

Aux Cable, Tsumbay Audio Cable with In-line Remote, Microphone 3.5mm Male to Male Cable Premium Nylon Auxiliary Cord for Car, Headphone, iPhone, Computer, PS4, Home Stereo Gaming Devices (1m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pL2KAbCV62EQ2

Honestly I don't know of any simple solution that doesn't involve a mixer, which are a little expensive. You can get one of these and then buy some of these. Then plug your switch into one input, your phone into another, and plug your headphones into the output. Then I'm not sure about the microphone, but at least you can hear both sources

Since the cost is so low, it might be worthwhile to see if you can use Windows 10's dictation capability and just direct the audio out of computer to the microphone jack using an aux cord or something. There may be some sort of software solution to redirecting the audio as well. Failing either of those, you could just play the audio to a microphone using speakers or headphones.

Disclaimer: I have not used Microsoft's speech to text functionality for quite a while, so I can't speak to its accuracy (but, Microsoft is currently one of a handful of companies at the forefront of speech recognition research, so I imagine it wouldn't be too awful).

You need a 3.5mm to 1/4'' adapter if you have 3.5mm headphones and don't want to get different headphones. Like this one I think: https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

The correct cable 3.5 stereo to dual 1/4 mono.. like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-159-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B005HGM1D6

Then plug one of the 1/4 into your interface. The other end doesn't need to be plugged in since the kick has no stereo features. 3.5 to 3.5 stereo or rca will work as well.

3.5 stereo to one 1/4 mono summed is not correct and can cause issues. this cable is not correct

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

3.5 to 1/4 trs will not work on mono input devices either. this cable is not correct for mono input devices

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-105-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O35

To follow up, I bought this one, from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C4FU52C/

It does the job nicely. Everything works, left/right headphone speakers and the mic. No different than when directly connected to the controller. Now the headphone cable doesn't get bent when I hold the controller close.

You might want one of these for recording into audio interfaces or plugging into certain sound systems: 3.5mm stereo to dual 1/4” Mono Y-Cable

You should be able to use something like this I BELIEVE if you want to be able to do both sounds at the same time:
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Pro-Stereo-Splitter-Headphones/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540925124&sr=8-5&keywords=1%2F8+y+splitter+stereo

​

Combined with a coupler (change that male end to female) then two male to male 1/8th inch stereo wires (to essentially turn the females back to males).

​

Haven't tried anything like this in a LONG time, can't promise it will work well but in theory it should

Yup! Everything else should be in the box for you.

Your headphones will require a 3.5 to 1/4 converter like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY

There are other ones on amazon, but this was the first to show for example.

You'll only need to buy balanced cables.

If you're going to connect it to your pc make sure to get a dual TRS 6.35mm to 3.5mm cable.

Like these

Pc version

Here's what I do so I can even have music while gaming with a headset on http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Male-Female-inch/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394631161&sr=1-1&keywords=reverse+headphone+splitter

Plug headphones into controller and music source. Now in terms of online I'd say pandora spotify grooveshark or an old MySpace page =p

It has a few uses but basically it could be used to hook up an ipod to play along with in the inputs and use the outputs for use with a powered amp or a sound board.


An example:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004G87FLY


If it doesn't have a dedicated headphone jack you could also use this slot for headphones with a proper adapter.

Ok, I have two harbinger v2115 speakers(https://harbingerproaudio.com/v2115-multipurpose-loudspeaker/), 1 v2215 speaker (https://harbingerproaudio.com/v2215-multipurpose-loudspeaker-15-inch/). I am using this 3.5mm->xlr cable (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Inch-3-5mm-Male/dp/B00QMITC7G) and these xlr cables to connect from the output of one speaker to the input of another (https://www.amazon.com/MCSproaudio-XLR-CABLE-25FT-Microphone/dp/B00O5EKZ9I/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?crid=4J81770V8E55&keywords=xlr+cable&qid=1556327488&s=gateway&sprefix=xlr&sr=8-11)

I'd rather recommend a short extension cable, like this. Barrel-type adaptors will put unnecessary stress on a phone's headphone socket.

If you're going to DIY it like I suggest, just watch out for mislabelled cables. I see it a lot. The "insert" cable which is the one coming out of the A4 needs to be tip/ring. Ignore the terminology and as long as the 2 ends are different colours, you'll be fine.
This:
http://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-YPP117-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O54/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1452817817&sr=8-38&keywords=Y+cables
Not this:
http://www.amazon.ca/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452817771&sr=8-2&keywords=Y+cables

The second cable simply duplicates the input to both outputs.
After that, simply use mono cables to get into the MS-20.

I haven't actually tried this yet, although I've thought about doing it. Theoretically you could:

1. Get a USB soundcard in addition to your current soundcard.
   
2. Set Teamspeak to output from the USB soundcard and your game audio to output from your regular soundcard.
   
3. Set OBS/whatever you use to capture the two lines on two different tracks.
   
4. Plug the male ends from something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=pd_sbs_23_4? _encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000I98ZYG&pd_rd_r=CQBAK5050P1T9D89DKYS&pd_rd_w=zwDwU&pd_rd_wg=6s6Jf&psc=1&refRID=CQBAK5050P1T9D89DKYS) into your two soundcards and then plug your headphones into the female end.
   
   In theory that should work. In practice I'm not sure. I might actually try it really soon though.

https://www.amazon.com/Tsumbay-Microphone-Headphone-Auxiliary-Headphones/dp/B06XXD5SKN/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540311332&sr=8-4&keywords=aux+cable+with+microphone

I believe this is what you are looking for. Can't comment on how well it works (you may get mic feedback from the speaker) I have one for my phone to hook up to my car stereo. it basically is an aux cable with a microphone build in. so you will get audio out of your speaker and the mic in the cable will pick up sounds for chat

I've always used one of these when recording directly: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KKcDzb2Q97DTJ

How are you dropping the 1/4 inch output on the guitar to the 1/8 inch mic jack? Are you using one of those <$10 adapters from Amazon?

Sorry for not using the tech support sticky but would this one do the job: https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Auxiliary-4-Conductor-Extension-Connectors/dp/B01552UGSS/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1484356311&sr=8-9&keywords=TRRS&th=1?

You can do something like this with a mixer. The questions mainly comes down to: What is it worth to you? Do you use an external DAC/AMP?


If you do use an external DAC/AMP: This will work and will be slightly cheaper.


IF you do not use an external DAC/AMP: This will need extra equipment: Your choice between a DAC/AMP or a USB Sound Card.

The Equipment

Mixer $40 - The mixer is what you will use to control volume of the 2 channels. You can also use it for a microphone if you choose to get one down the road!


Cables x2 $20 - These are for the Output of your computer.


Cable x1 $7 - This cable is for the Output of the mixer.


USB Soundcard $8 - This is OPTIONAL. You only need it if you don't have a DAC/AMP. However it would be a nice addition if you don't want to run a cable to the front of your PC.


Total: $67-$75

The Setup

1. Cable one goes from the rear headphone out of the PC to 2/3 on the mixer. Set this as the default device.
   
2. Cable two goes from the front headphone out of the PC to 4/5 on the mixer. Set the programs you want to output here, Discord Skype Curse TS3 Spotify etc.
   
3. The RCA to 3.5mm cable goes from the 2-Track Output to the Line In on your PC, the baby blue port.
   
4. Go to the Line In properties on Windows. Check off the "Listen to this device" box, and make it only audible through your DAC/AMP. If you don't have a DAC/AMP make it only audible through the front headphone out on your computer.

I use something similar to these out of my VDrum module, and this 3.5mm extension to give me extra play room.

Nothing special, cheap and gets the job done.

If you're okay with the additional toms being single-zone, I know my Yamaha DTX-500 (I think) supports using splitters to double the tom ports.

In other words, I have six toms hooked up, two to each tom port. They currently trigger the same MIDI notes, but only because I haven't really figured out what I'm going to do with them. Note that's done with dual mono -> stereo cables.

I'm also duplicating my crash (just convenient to have one on the left and right) and the double bass pedals, FWIW. Those are done with dual stereo -> stereo cables. Each side has the same zones, but who cares?

So, anyway, I have a decent number of triggers on the head unit I started with. Only complaint is that I had to upgrade my rack, which is now some Frankenstein-ish thing.

For you, I'd recommend getting:

1. this
   
   
2. this
   
   
3. this
   
   
   This is actually the setup I started off with alongside a Rode-NT1KIT and there was no noticeable audio difference between a 2i2 and an xlr to 3.5mm cable with phantom power in the middle.

It has been covered, but most phones have TRRS - Tip/Ring/Ring/Sleeve jacks like this -

https://www.amazon.com/BesYee-2-Pack-Headphone-Adapter-90degree/dp/B0177EU61E/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1480125903&sr=8-11&keywords=TRS+3.5mm

Most Stereo only plugs have TRS - Tip/Ring/Sleeve -

https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Housing-Theater-Devices-Amplifiers/dp/B00Y2LANUU/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1480125903&sr=8-10&keywords=TRS+3.5mm

The Sleeve is always ground. The Tip and the first Ring are Left and Right Stereo channels.

In the TRRS, you have left/right and an extra ring for the microphone, and of course the Sleeve for ground.

If you plug a TRS plug into a TRRS jack, the lower extra Ring (mic) is shorted to ground.

We are using this cable. It works fine.

The one that was wired incorrectly is not part of our setup anymore. Instead we are using this.

these are cheaper than the splitters you will find on drumsplitters.com and work fine with TD-6v https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000068O54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

don't buy more than 2 since you can only split 2 inputs.

Like-a dis? http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG

I had a similar setup before with my 360 and computer, worked fine, both channels.

I experienced this issue with earphones only. It doesn't happen anytime. I am going to do a factory reset and I also ordered this as recommended elsewhere in this sub.

Or this one is ten feet and only $2.

I just looked up TRS to RCA on amazon and found a bunch.

Looks like your specific interface does indeed restrict the headphones to output only the Line Out 1-2. So you'll need a headphone amplifier that will accept stereo balanced TRS line input, like a Samson Q5 or similar. You would then connect the 1/4" line outs 3-4 to this box, and then use this for your headphones.

You could probably get away with using a Behringer HA400 and connecting its input to your Line Out 3-4 using a TRS -> stereo TS y-cable. The only problem there is that the Behringer is expecting a headphone-level signal at its input, and your interface's line out 3-4 is much lower than a headphone signal. So you would have to crank the Behringer's volume up, increasing noise.

http://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-foot-3-5mm-conductor/dp/B00FJEGXLW

You want 4 pole (which has 3 rings). 4 pole has left audio, right audio, ground, and mic. Also known as TRRS (tip, ring, ring, sleeve).

Will this cable work with my google chromecast? I may want to use both mono and stereo.
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Inch-3-5mm-Male/dp/B00QMITC7G

I am also considering simply utilizing 2 output jacks and having each pickup on entirely different systems.

I would then use this type of cable: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-STP203-Dual-Insert/dp/B000068O1P/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1407429166&sr=8-7&keywords=dual+cable+1%2F4%22

Each system would have independent controls and could be blended and mixed together using those systems.

How legitimate of an option does this sound?

What cables are you using to connect your soundcard to your modular? Are they TRS-to-TRS? For ease-of-use, you should just use TS-to-TS.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

Probably mono to mono. I don't have the BSP but when I had my MS-10 I used it with the Teenage Engineering OpLab which could do the Hz/V signals and I used these cables. I would imagine the BSP outs are the same (mono).

Amp: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP117-inch-Dual-Cable/dp/B000068O54

Cans: www.amazon.com/HOSA-Stereo-4-Inch-Phone-Female/dp/B000068O5D

This may work https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=pd_sbs_23_4

Yup splitter

This ?

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Showcase-6-Inch-Stereo-30S1-35260/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463958041&sr=8-2&keywords=audio+splitter+jack


http://www.amazon.com/Conwork-2-Pack-Plated-Stereo-Y-splitter/dp/B00ZNTPZLM/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1463958041&sr=8-12&keywords=audio+splitter+jack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I98ZYG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Hb2lub05K94J0

For the cable this is what you're looking for. This is the minimum you will need and probably all you will need.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LMFS7M/ref=psdc_172544_t5_B000A3GPIS

For the headphone jack on the front of the recorder you might need this adapter. I have extras if you are in the USA I can send you one.

https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Jack-Adapter-black/dp/B00142BZSY