(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best suspension parts

Yup, those are definitely things I would recommend. The plugs you can do in 5 mins. Ford uses double platinum plugs stock. You can either get the Motorcraft or the Autolite double platinum and they'll work great and are pretty cheap. I bought the Autolite at Advanced for like $15 two years ago and they work great. While you're at it, I'd also recommend you change the plug cables. Denso make the plugs for Ford, so you can get the original part directly through them for cheaper.

http://smile.amazon.com/Denso-671-4061-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000EQB36A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Oil you can use high-mileage or synthetic. I prefer to use synthetic because it's higher quality, protects the engine better and it's either a bit cheaper or the same cost-wise. I change mine every 6K miles and just pick out whatever 5W-30 full synthetic with filter they have at Advanced. It's usually $20 or $25, while conventional high-mileage is $18-21 but that you should change every 4K or so so it's not actually cheaper.

You should definitely change the brake discs. You could buy the original but good quality replacements can also be had like ACDelco or Raybestos.

The water pump... well I'll be honest, mine has the original one. The water pump typically doesn't fail or leak on these. Mine hasn't leaked any coolant at all and the original radiator seems to be holding up fine too. If you wanna replace it as a preventative measure you could and it's easier than most cars because it's not connected to the belt. It's a 1 hour job if you're experienced, around 2 if not.

I would definitely, definitely recommend you do the valve cover gasket and rear dogbone control arm if they haven't been done. Do not use any silicone on the valve cover. Reason why it's important to change is because the rubber breaks and engine oil will start leaking into the plugs, fouling them and if it's bad enough can cause the car to misfire. Change them every 60K or so. That rear control arm is very important too because it has to do with rear tire wear. That control arm is the one that sets the rear camber of the car, and at around 100K miles the rubber breaks and you'll be able to notice because of the rear camber. Tires will last 1/3 of what they should unless you replace it. It has independent rear suspension which is great for handling, but it also causes that.

http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-521-416-Control-Arm/dp/B004AIS1R2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462747313&vehicle=2001-54-679-49--1-8-5-3458--1-1-747--2-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2001%3Aford%3Afocus

Any car with that mileage you should check the front and rear shocks. The rear are super easy to do. I followed a video and did it in 10 mins total. The front are a bit tricky so those take around an hour. If you want it to ride like stock use Monroe, if you want a bit sportier/stiffer use KYB.

Enjoy it! I love mine. Perfect little daily driver with enough pep to keep me entertained when I want to. The recaros are amazing.

Couple hints: If you want better seat placement in the car and a more comfortable ride, get this gas pedal spacer. It's not that big, super easy to install, and makes driving it so much more comfortable since your foot doesn't have to travel as far from the brake to the gas. You wouldn't think 9.5mm is a lot, but it works very well. It also makes heel-toe shifting possible/way easier.

Also the mountune short shifter makes the shifter feel like it should out of the factory. Also pretty easy install but you should take out your battery and CPU for easier access and you can also install these shifter bracket bushings at the same time which remove almost all of the rubbery gross play in the shifter. Both of these give a hugely improved feel to the car.

Whether you do or don't do these, you will still have a great car that is fantastic to chuck around. Have fun with it!

For what it's worth I have a '15 Ram 1500 that I have been using since new as my primary off-pavement exploration tool - it's a stout enough platform with minor improvements.

Here is what I would suggest:

• A small lift is in order, if nothing else just to get that front bumper up off the ground a little. I chose to go with the Mopar lift because it's a well thought out, well executed example of lagom design. It's not a lot of parts but it's all top notch quality and it improves suspension travel without binding, and without negatively affecting towing stability for a truck that still has to get up and go to work being a truck.
  
  
• If you don't have them already, I strongly suggest the factory skid plates. There is one for the power steering, one for the front differential and one for the transfer case. The actual metal stamping for the transfer case is the same as the front differential one but they come in different kits based on what hardware is included, some of that hardware is "nutserts" (a threaded nut which affixes into a hole in the chassis like a rivet) so you'll also need an inexpensive Nutsert tool to install them. The transfer case skid plate also includes a crossmember to support its rear edge. These all bolt into existing holes in the chassis, just some of them use nutserts and others thread straight into the stamped hole. I believe I paid less than $200 for all three kits with all the nutserts and a $9 nutsert tool . I make a point of not trying to beat up my undercarriage if I can avoid it, but the added peace of mind from the skid plates is nice and they only have to do their job one time to be worth the price.
  
  
• Yes, tires. There's a lot of thought you can put into tires as there are so many choices available and people buy tires for a lot of reasons, a lot of different terrain, etc. A lot of times people buy tires for the cosmetics because they have a picture in their mind of what tire-to-truck ratio looks right. I tried to put cosmetics out of my mind entirely when tire shopping and strictly consider what the real implications would be in capability, availability, cost, fuel efficiency, driver fatigue, chassis parts longevity.. I ended up with ~33x10" tires (255/80R17) and now almost 20k miles later with a lot of varied terrain and weather, a 5000 mile road trip, close to capacity towing I consider that to have been a good move. This size also fits easily in the stock spare location, a 35" tire wouldn't. A few guys have told me they think I need bigger tires (that cosmetics thing again..) but they're entitled to their opinion.
  
  
• Tow hooks if your trim level doesn't already have them. The Mopar tow hooks for 1500's are pretty stout, I believe I paid about $90 for them.. that's kind of a lot for two hooks but they're beefy castings that tie into the frame very well and are engineered to not interfere with the vehicle's impact absorbing frame for collision safety. Depending on what bumper your trim package includes you may or may not want to get the revised covers that fit around the tow hooks.

i have a 5.5 inch lift on mine, with 33" tires.
here's what i have underneath:

1. RC long arm kit: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-suspension-lift-kit-689u.html ~700
   
2. Chevy s10 leaf springs with some autozone lowering shackles. total cost was 20 for the springs off CL, and 40 for the shackels from Autozone.
   
3. RC rear CV driveshaft: http://www.roughcountry.com/rear-cv-drive-shaft-jeep-xj-5076-1.html ~300
   
4. Omix-Ada sye: http://www.omix-ada.com/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator-sye-kit-88-06-jeep-wrangler.html got mine in CL for 100...
   
5. Dodge Dakota rear brake line
   
6. RE 5.5 front springs: http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE1345-Coil-Spring/dp/B006GJK8MY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1395842905&sr=8-8&keywords=5.5+xj+springs ~90 bucks
   
7. I dont remember where i got them, but 8-10degree rear pinion angle shims. they were like 40 bucks for the steel ones.
   
8. bilstein 5100's with detour's cheaters cause i got 4 inch shocks, and not 5. ~370. WORTH THE MONEY. they are absolutely awesome.
   
9. longer swaybar links off a TJ. had to weld in bit on the swaybar, but i made em fit. they have a ball joint in them, which is what i was after.
   
10. RC trackbar. buy one from someone else, like Iron Rock Offroad. this thing is a piece of shit, and shouldnt have been made. the heim joint on the end bangs and clicks and wears quick. worst 190 i've ever spent.
    
11. trimmed fenders, and welded the rear wells together. tried the cut and fold, looks like shit.
    
12. JCR rear quarterpanel skins and boxed tail led lights.
    
13. lots of other stuff up top.
    
    you can get better cooling with a higher core count radiator, and a thermostat - maybe 195? also, flush your cooling system really good. some people dont know that you arent supposed to mix different kinds of radiator fluid, and you end up with a mud in your cooling system. even though it says on the bottle dont mix HOAT and OAT fluids.
    
    intake, exhaust? meh. not really worth it on the 4.0. people will argue, but there really is no performance gain. same with TB spacers, and other doo-dads. the only thing that makes more power is stroking it, or adding a super charger. check out Golen engine works if you want a 4.7 stroker - nothing but good reviews.
    
    if you dont have ABS, you could swap in a d44 or 8.8, and have a wider array of stuff available to you. most 8.8's come with 4.11 rear gears, which is closer to what you would want with 33" tires. you'd only need to regear the front. as a added bonus, some come with E-Lockers, and adding a extra disc in there makes it a cheap locker, as opposed to a LSD. if you do have ABS... look for the mod to get rid of that shit, and the d35 under you jeep.
    
    btw... long arms make your jeep ride like a Cadillac. totally worth it. long arms come with other issues though too, like over extension... so bump stops and limit straps are a wise investment. you should also look into frame stiffeners. rough stuff sells them for ~200 bucks, and they have everything pre-cut so you only have to strip some undercoat, and weld. maybe bend a bit. You could also do a 4.5 lift which is more common, and still fit fine. you have to bumpstop though, and you can use hockey pucks on the front for this. i didnt... my swaybar smashed into my wheel well a few times. good thing too, it didn't destroy my shocks.
    
    also, word of wisdom: i know you're in the dry part of the country, but that doesn't exempt you from rain and rust. check your rear quarter panels, at the very bottom. mine were rusted out almost entirely behind the plastic. up in there there are some electrical connectors that im pretty sure control every bit of anything electrical in the jeep. i got mine wet and it burned out my radio, airbag control, ASD relay... so my jeep wouldn't turn off, killed all my gauges, made funny noises over my speakers, and killed my door controls.

I have had mine for 14 years, put over 200k miles on it.. It's a great car.. I also have a 5spd... I found these mods pretty solid choices.
Intake
http://www.knfilters.com/cold_air_intake/lexus_is300.aspx
cams
http://www.briancrower.com/makes/toyota/2jzge.shtml BC0311(264)
Header
http://www.dezod.com/dezod-motorsports/dezod-motorsports-green-headers/dzm002/i-2119510.aspx
Sways
https://www.amazon.com/Hotchkis-22410-Sport-Lexus-IS300/dp/B0050UY8VW
Exhaust
Too many choices
HKS Dragger II is a great sounding
Apexi N1 Also strong
http://www.dezod.com/apexi-integration/apexi-exhaust-n1-series/162kt05/i-35731.aspx
http://www.dezod.com/hks/hks-dragger-ii-exhaust/3302ex077/i-38012.aspx
A little more quite if your going headers
http://www.dezod.com/tanabe/tanabe-medalian-exhaust-medalion-touring/t70038/i-129483.aspx

Suspension
Koni Yellows paired with Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Or coilovers if your feeling fancy...

Clutch
OEM Mark 4 Supra NA Clutch kit + OEM MK4 Supra Flywheel (requires some machining) http://my.is/forums/f88/n-supra-flywheel-clutch-swap-w-part-numbers-pics-409335/
It's a nice choice lighter but not so light makes driving a pain. Iv left mine stock... No real slippage issues

http://shopfigs.com/v3/CD3V2

helps clutch feel more direct.

heat shield
http://shopfigs.com/v3/header-hs300V2

Figs makes a bunch of great things, caliper adapters kits.. I recommend this.. I have replaced my stock calipers maybe 2 times since ive owned the car..


Its a fun car, its not really that fast these days, but feels nimble easy to drive fun to toss around and a great deal cost wise.

Turbos... Well thats a longer post.. thats really covered on plenty of forums.. my.is is a good one to start with..

Height should be your biggest concern.

I'm 5'11", with kinda short legs, too. I couldn't ride this bike if it were any higher. You can get lowering links, and a different seat, and you should be OK - right about where I'm at, but it may never be "like a glove" comfortable.

It will totally get the city job done. Little box on the back, and you're good to go. When they hit potholes, and nearly lose it, you'll float over like nothing. Mine is a daily commuter and a weekend warrior. There is nothing this bike won't do "pretty ok".

Riding is riding. Unless you're trying to keep up with people doing 80+, you'll be just fine. The bike is as much fun as any other bike on the street at <60mph. I've ridden with groups of guys on harleys, groups of older guys on Can-Am and Goldwing trikes, adventure bike groups, groups of kids on dirtbikes, families on atvs, and in giant packs of streetbikes on weekend evenings.

Travelling far distance ... don't do it unless you're comfortable on a bike already. Riding for hours on end can play tricks with your concentration and whatnot. If you must, and you're not that experienced, plan on a 15-20 minute break for every hour riding. Just do it.

Here's some shit that I learned the hard way:

Change the oil/filters before you go, and check the plug. Check your air filter after 1000 miles of highway/trail. Plan your trip to avoid interstate. You will be much more relaxed on smaller highways, and you won't have as many trucks and their drafts to contend with. Calculate your gas mileage at every fillup. Little problems can show up as dropping mileage before they become big problems. Put some flat stop in your tubes. Give the tires a push check before starting every time. Bring rain riding gear, and hope you don't need it. Get a throttle lock. Either a good one or a cheap one. The KLR will vibrate your hands numb, you will need to get your hand off the bars for a bit. Wear a camelback water bag. A good GPS/phone mount that offers visibility without having to look away from the road is really nice when going through unfamiliar towns. Make sure you have a usb charger if you don't have a 12v socket. for your gps/phone on the bike. Carry extra cheap eye protection. One of those ATV seat pads can help if you get a sore ass easily. Don't beeline it to your destination - make a point to include a side-trip up a mountain or something as often as you can.

I think you'll end up liking the bike, and you'll end up going on that "adventure" ride sooner than you think :)

Lanesplitting is as easy as you want it to be, with no panniers. It starts to get hairy above 60, because after that the KLR just doesn't have the instant go that you need to zip through smaller spaces. So at those speeds, you're more like a cruiser bike. But at city speeds, once you've been in the saddle a few months, it feels really small in traffic.

sounds pretty similar to mine... at 153k now and engine and tranny seem solid still but working through the misc things that are dying.

I will say I’ve been able to do things a tad bit cheaper... i price things out between fcp euro / IPD and then I check Swede speed for cheaper alternatives if people have tried stuff... I replaced the front wheel bearings on mine with aftermarket wheel bearings for around $150 for both and have had good success. You need a press though - so beware, it was pretty time consuming. I did struts and shocks + brakes that day as well. You can do that a bit cheaper as well - FCP Euro for the front struts with Bilsteins ended up reasonably priced and for the back I got KYBs (KYB 741067 AGX Gas Shock based on mynameideasweretaken recommendations and have been pleased. They say they don’t fit, but they definitely do for AWD V50. They won’t be suitable for powered vehicles though I suspect. Ride height is practically stock with them. All in all it was around $350 for all the struts i believe. I did the strut bearings as well.

Next up is the front axles and lower control arms 😒. Those are pricey. I’m taking a gamble and got afternarket ones on advanced auto parts per a mechanic friends recommendation (he replaced a bunch on P1’s and had good results). Ended up being ~$250 for both. If it turns out poorly I’ll update this though... I just couldn’t quite justify the $1000 fcp wanted for them.

I also had my fan blower motor start clicking the other day... at $300 for the part and a days work of labor (it’s deep within the dash) I was less than thrilled with Swedish wagon. Thankfully it stopped clicking but it’s only a matter of time 😞...

Anything KYB is good, but look for the AGX (I think is what they are called....). they are gas-adjustable struts, either with 8 pre-set damping/rebound settings, or four depending on the application.

Here's just a random strut on amazon http://www.amazon.com/KYB-734037-Manually-Adjustable-Cartridges/dp/B000CO9Q2C/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1YXZK110Y8AMV3JNEWBT They are great because you can drive them on one setting for everyday driving, and when you get to the track, just use a screwdriver to turn them to your preferred damping. It's super nice for someone that is just getting into tuning, and doesn't exactly know how everything works together. You can build your mechanic skills with these.

But to answer your question, yes. :) Lol sorry, I get excited when talking about upgrades, especially on an RS!

'99 Intrigue and '00 Century here.

Second gen W-body was a better car than the first gen. Very easy architecture to mess around with.

This is a VERY GOOD car for messing around with. Parts are very cheap and interchange with a huge variety of GM vehicles. You can get performance-grade parts out of the junkyard and build a very good handling car with a smooth ride for next to nothing.

Those factory trailing arms are some shit though. Replace them with the Dorman tubular ones, they are much better than stock and come with bushings.

If your brackets are rusted as in OP's photo, $14 fixes that

If you wanna talk W-body suspension:

The front control arm bushings are a shitty rubber design too and usually fail within 150k miles. Replace with Moog ball-and-socket design, part # K200787 ($23 on RockAuto). Rust is not horrible in my area so I re-used the original control arms, gave them a good coat of anti-rust paint though. Even if you just get new control arms (if you do, buy control arms with greaseable ball joints), I suggest pressing out the supplied bushings and replacing with the Moog part. Noticeable improvement in ride.

Hollow factory front sway bar on W-bodies tends to rust, and the crimped ends tend to crack. Replace with Dorman 927100 solid sway bar. DO NOT use the bushings and links that come with the sway bar, they are garbage and will start squeaking within 15,000 miles. Use Moog K700527 links (with polyurethane bushings and barrel nuts) and Moog K80815 sway bar bushings (polyurethane), lube with silicone grease before install.

Your car will ride like new after this (assuming the struts are in good shape). I know it sounds like a lot but we are talking around $200 for like-new ride, maybe $300 if you want brand new control arms.

The outer tie rod ends are also a weak point. Again, Moog makes a noticeably better one than the competitors.

If/when your old struts are shot (hint, if you're over 100k miles, they probably are), buy the ones spec'd for the Intrigue. Better handling, same cost. Get springs out of an Intrigue (front Intrigue springs were also used on Aurora, LeSabre, and Bonneville, rear Intrigue springs were also used on v8 Impala, v8 Grand Prix, and v8 Monte Carlo) in the junkyard. While you're in the junkyard, get a strut tower bar out of a Regal or Monte Carlo (some police Impalas might have them too?)

When the time comes for brakes, there are also "junkyard upgrades" available -- some work with 16" wheels, some require 17" wheels.

I don't know everything about cars, but I know a lot about W-body suspensions!

I love the GM w-body. It's a cheap platform, reliable, and easy to work on. Of course, I live south of the Mason-Dixon, so I don't have the rust issues they do up north.

For some visual evidence of what I'm talking about, here's my car on 195/55r15 tires vs 170/70r13 tires (the 195s are .8" larger diameter)

https://i.imgur.com/T9vrgHn.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Qhyzvrv.jpg

despite the car actually being lower to the ground with the smaller tires, the extra space in the wheel wells can give the impression of the car sitting higher.

As far as basic mods:

https://www.amazon.com/ST-Suspension-51120-Anti-Sway-Accord/dp/B000AUMOJ0

That'll help you get rid of most of the factory understeer.

For suspension, the standard choice is Koni sport shocks with Ground Control coilover sleeves. They'll run you $900 + assembly.

If you aren't able/willing to play around with spring compressors, I would save up a bit more and get a pre-assembled coilover like the BC Racing type BR coilover for $1000. They'll save you the cost of having a shop assemble the shocks for you, meaning you'll likely spend less in total.

You'll likely want 16 or 17" wheels for a better selection of tires.

205/55r16 and 215/45r17 are good tire sizes in terms of having a ton of great tires to choose from. They're the same size or 10mm wider than stock tires on a 97 V6 accord, and approximately the same diameter, so you shouldn't run into trouble with scrubbing or steering range.

Best inexpensive quality wheel with the correct lug pattern for a 97 Accord that I would find is the Enkei J10. Might have better luck searching for other people selling used 16" or 17" wheels for accords, buying new wheels and tires is always pretty pricey.

The other option is to look into converting your Accord to 5x114.3 lugs, because then you can get lightweight, performance-focused wheels that nobody really seems to make for your Accord's 4x114.3 lugs.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/5-lug-conversion-96-cd7-2852976/

No problem! I love to help others as others have helped me a lot in the past, gotta pass the knowledge on :D

I got KYB 348023 Excel-G Gas Shock

Did them myself as it was just, jack up the car, lift up trunk mat, and wrench it off (highly simplifying on my part, but it wasn't bad). I try to do as many things as I possibly can, but since I don't have another car to use while this is out of service or have the tools to do somethings, I try to choose my battles as best as I can.

I used NGK Iridium spark plugs

However, I also noticed they sold a pack of 4 and ACCORDING to Amazon it fits my 08 Civic. These were also pretty straight forward to do, removing the electric power plugs was kind of annoying, but was pretty simple.

I just went to the dealership to buy the transmiossion fluid and coolant as those I heard SHOULD be Honda fluids, but correct me if i'm wrong. I also did those myself as they were like oil changes, pretty straight forward. The brake fluid flush thought required bags and bleeding the system so I bit the bullet and went to Brakes Plus and used a coupon. Got Dot 4 flush for $45, solid deal to me.

Power steering pump had a leak so idk if you would need it. I would go get a multi point inspection to see what you need for things like that. Same with the rear sway bar links (even though this is part of the suspension and is considered wear).

Swar bar links, serpentine belt (forgot to mention this one), and 4 wheel alignment costed me $433 at the dealership after some discounts. I have a Brakes Plus CC (Synchrony Car Care) so anything over $200 I can finance for 0% interest over 6 months as long as I pay in full. Discount tire, my dealership, and SOME garages take it. Comes in handy, especially for tires as Discount Tire (my fave place) has an additional rebate if you use their card (sometimes).

Power steering pump was $200 because of my deductible, but an additional $233 for the hose and labor.(rubber doesn't get included in the warranty because wear). Here I could've argued that the labor overlapped and maybe gotten it cheaper. Just asking doesn't hurt, sometimes they just slap on x% discount if you're nice, timely, and/or come often.

I can't wait for when I get carbon ceramic pads because theyll give off less dust and since I detail my car, its annoying cleaning that brake dust off. The extra stopping power (compared to worn OEM pads) will be nice as well. The next set of tires has me worried because I love the wet and dry traction of my current set, but my wallet doesn't like their lifespan. My next possible worry is the transmission...

I installed OME (Old Man Emu) HD (Heavy Duty) front springs on my '00. They're labeled as ARB 2928, I got mine on Amazon. OME also sells a MD (Medium Duty) spring that has a lower spring rate and would result in a smooth ride. The HD can support more weight for if you want an aftermarket bumper or winch or something.

There aren't really any aftermarket front struts options. Just the OME struts and OEM replacements. Most people just run an OEM replacement. I use KYB struts from RockAuto since the OME struts are not cheap.

In addition to the springs you could install a spacer. At this point you need to start being careful with your CV axle angle. Too much angle and your axles will begin to bind and break. I think a 1-1.5" spacer on top is the maximum you'd be able to go, and even then you might run into issues.

To go higher you'll need to look into a SFD (Sub Frame Drop), this is basically a "body lift".

For the rear, a lot of us run either AC springs or a cheaper alternative is Land Rover Discovery front springs on the rear of our Pathfinders. I personally run NRC9449 springs in the rear, but have run NRC9446. There are other taller options as well. If you go long enough in the rear you'll need longer shocks, I run Bilstein 5125. If you go high enough you'll want to look into a Panhard bar drop, a trailing arm extension, and longer rear brake lines/diff breather tube.

If you want to get more info, I'd direct you to the NPORA website. Lots of good info on there, but please just do your due diligence and search first before just asking questions.

Good luck!

Edit: spacers are an okay solution, but they mess with your suspension geometry since the spring compressed in a different arc. Going with just super huge spacers can cause some suspension issues longer term. Ideally you would do a full suspension job, but obviously that (what I've listed above) is gonna rack up $500+, not including labor if you don't do it yourself.

No problem bud. I always have time for another Subaru driver. We're a family after all.

Ok, so here's the rundown.

Cobb Tuning Accessport: This is the ECU management tool for your car. With this you can offload telemetry data from the engine computer, and also load on "maps" which adjust the ECU behavior. The "Off the Shelf" or "OTS" maps come in a couple flavors, but you're looking at probably only using the first two. Those are Stage 1 and Stage 2.

Stage 1 is for a car with light, or no power adders, and comes in different versions for what octane fuel you're using. You would be flashing stage 1 until you put a downpipe in your car. Stage 2 is for after you add a downpipe, and increases boost pressure to match your now freer flowing system. You must flash Stage 2 when you add a downpipe. If you don't your boost pressures will get all weird, and things will start to melt/die.

ECU tuning is super important for the WRX, and I would highly recommend buying one of these first. The new (very modern) V3 Accessport is around $650, but you can find older V2 models (which will tune your ECU just as well) for around $300-350. Check out the For Sale forums at NASIOC.

Eibach 7714.320 Sway Kit: This is the sway bar kit I got. I'm totally happy with it so far, despite the fact that it's basically the budget option for this car. Take note of the fact that I have a sedan, while you have a wagon. I have no idea if these will fit the wagon. But as for Eibach sways, I'll recommend them. This kit is $400 with end-links included (the part that connects the bar to the rest of the suspension).

Grimmspeed Pulley: This guy is $110 or so, and the least important of the three. But it's also easy to install, and improves engine response. It's the least noticeable mod that I've done, and frankly, though I like what the change did, I've also been driving this car forever. You might not even notice it.


If you have any more questions, fire away. I've been doing a ton of research over the years. Especially lately, as now I'm finally doing work to my car.

I have a 2015 LE as well! Got into modding last year. I started with cosmetic modifications and slowly into performance on a budget.

Cosmetic:
- Rubber Front Lip and Sideskirts $12 each side
- Window Visors $42
- Headlight Eyelids $20
- Rear Window Spoiler : $40
- Trunk Spoiler Rubber$15

Electrical:
- LED Foglights $32
- LED Strip Sequential Turn Signals $18
- LED Turn signal switchbacks, requires a resistor and tapping into turn signal wires
- LED Interior Bulbs $6


Performance:
- TRD Exhaust $400 used. Made my car a joy to drive! Other great cheaper options are Borla $350, and J2 $250. I got the TRD for the balanced deep tones and didnt want to be pulled over for 3rd party exhaust ( I live in Cali).
Super budget ebay exhaust is available too! $85 : Sounds decent, join the 11th gen corolla group on facebook to see and hear videos
- Spectre Short Ram Intake $150: Great sound from engine and increased torque
- Megan Racing Rearsway bar $110: If you like hugging corners while turning this does wonders for reducing bodyroll. I have way more confidence on tight turns!

I like Dr. Clockwork's wands.

You can also find them relatively cheap as a beauty supply tool $139

The single most significant factor will be whether it has a wax or ceramic core, but most online retailers won't say one way or the other. Ceramic is better, because it will last longer.

Consider attachments besides just the neon glass tubes. Things like this can be a lot of fun. And I LOVE using body contacts.

How is that rear hatch? Saggy? Grab some lift struts for a Ford Windstar - Monroe MaxLift #901379. Might have to do some trim modification - I had to dremel some plastic trim around the joints on my 91 - but it's only a hair longer than the stock struts but is rated for more weight. Be careful though, the gate might actually open at full speed for once.

Add some 2A USB ports in the dash and on the back of the center console if your up for the task so his passengers can charger their phones.


Head over to /r/dashcam and pick out a cam to mount for insurance purposes. I bought a knock off A118C model camera and got all the wiring to run it around the windshield into an add-a-fuse in the interior fuse panel + a 64 GB microSD card all for $100. Depending on what slot you out the fuse in, the camera can come on with ignition, stay on all the time (wiring has a low battery voltage cut off), or even set it to a switch between the two if you again, have the time. Basic instillation wouldn't take long at all and it will pay for it's self in the first accident.

Grab a pair of PIAA Silicon wipers and enjoy 5+ year round wipers. You do have to get the windshield absolutely clean when you first put them on (needs a coating/sealant on the glass) but if you do it right, they are amazing. You will have to reapply a coating once a year, but you can use any windshield sealant like RainX or better sealers. Visit /r/detailing for some tips. On that note, get the Jeep detailed and maybe a fresh undercoating.

Check up on all the joints underneath including motor & tyranny mounts,
bushings, u joints. Replace as needed. Obviously plenty of ideas but the idea of getting a loaded XJ is an amazing gift and I'm jealous.

Alright, I've got some of those mods so I think I can help.

Front: Fox 2.0 struts. I have these. While they are decent, they are actually stiffer than I would've liked. Even with a big off-road bumper and winch and skid plates hanging off of the front, it feels like the spring rate is just a bit too stiff compared to my rears. Always have a lid on your coffee, or it will spill from smaller bumps.
Large bumps are soaked up amazingly well. But the small stuff is too stiff, and just feels Medium Premium. If you can afford the extra cash I'd recommend the Icon 2.5s. You'd get the Digressive valving which would help alot. Or simply the Bilstein 5100s.

Rear: I am running stock springs, A lift block kit (Pretty sure it was the Readylift 3"), and some Bilstein 7100s. Yes the 7100s. Remote reservoir race shocks. AK7112R04 is the part number. Absolutely worth it and amazing shocks. Wish I could do the same for the front. For reference, previously I had Raptor rear shocks (plan on selling them in the spring) on here. The Bilsteins 7100s are nicer in every way. Highly recommended. You do have to drill out the mounts for larger bolts: 13mm vs 1/2". And the readylift blocks keep me from compressing the rear too far.


Tires: I have had the Cooper Discoverer STT tires for the last 60,000 miles. Looks like I will get another 20,000 out of them. They are great, lots of stiction in everything short of glare ice. Amazing in snow, the deeper the better. Not too noisy, about the same as wind noise around the mirrors. Plus they last forever.

Here's an old video I made to show how a muffler delete isn't too loud, but it also demonstrates the tire noise

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSGtgFvCh7A

I wouldn't bother with a sway bar. They hang low and impede ground clearance.
I don't really have an issue with Wheelhop with my big heavy tires and good rear shocks.

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Anyway, hope this all helps.

If the the idea of a lift is already on your radar (and within the budget) I would go ahead and do it while you have everything taken apart.

You have a couple options depending on how much lift you're going for. In my opinion, ADF (www.andersondesign-fab.com) lifts are really really great for the price. The customer service is also second to none. When I installed mine, I emailed them with a question and Patrick (the owner) responded in LESS THAN A MINUTE haha. FYI, They just moved to a new shop so they're a bit backed up rn.

Or you could go with lift springs. Both RalliTek and Primitive Racing sell them separately or in their fully assembled kits. RalliTek also makes their own springs as another option. Also, note that the Standard Height versions of Kings will actually provide a small amount of lift, too.

You could also combine ADF lift spacers AND lift springs. With our cars, I've heard not to go over 2" total due to extra stress on the CV joints. Many people have gotten away with it though.

One thing to keep in mind is that the higher up you go, the more need you'll have for trailing-arm spacers. They keep your back wheels centered in the wheel well. ADF sells them in their kits. You may also need to ditch your rear sway bar altogether or get longer rear end links (Kartboy STI endlinks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067QSFQW/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_XoMRDbK0GP82A are great for lifted Foresters!).

It know it may seem a little daunting, but in the long run, I'm really glad I lifted mine. Good luck!

Replace the tie rod ends. You need penetrating oil, a pair of big pipe wrenches, and some strength to get the ends off.

The steering stabilizer looks like it's shot. It's 2 bolts to remove; super easy. With that leak I'll bet you can easily compress it by hand. A new steering stabilizer is cheap and worth the money[1].

If you plan on lifting the Jeep in the future, get an adjustable track bar[2]. Also super easy to replace

Go for an alignment after you do this, particularly if you don't tape the threads on the old tie rod ends to act as a guide for how far to thread the new ones in.

I have no idea how many miles you have on your jeep, but I'll just give some perspective:

• at 65k I had to replace all my shocks. Had to. They were all shot.
  
• at 90k I put a 3" lift on. Steering stabilizer, track bar, shocks, front end links, and OME springs went in the front. This made my suspension and steering amazingly tight.
  
• at 120k I replaced tie rod ends. Had to.
  
  If you're over 100k and everything looks stock, I highly recommend throwing $1k at the suspension. Even if your'e not going to lift it, replacing everything will make a HUGE difference.
  
  Oh, and sign up for a couple forums. This sub is nice, but forums are much better wealths of knowledge.
  
  [1] http://www.amazon.com/Rancho-RS5409-RS5000-Steering-Stabilizer/dp/B000CB42EM
  
  [2] http://jksmfg.com/i-8952506-grand-cherokee-wj-1999-2004-adjustable-front-trackbar.html
  
  

Here’s a link to the one I purchased. It was an alternate since the one Brian initially suggested was out of stock. I felt weird buying it coz it was for a Jeep but it worked perfect.

Beneges 2PCs Hood Lift Supports Compatible with 2005-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2005-2010 Jeep Commander Front Hood Gas Spring Struts Shocks Dampers SG414046, SG404028, 6304 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FW3XSC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QjCTDb1ESD9PN

these ones

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FW3XSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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they were linked in that youtube videos description as well.

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This is what I got https://smile.amazon.com/Ford-Fiesta-Pedal-Lift-Spacer/dp/B0116HT0MY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517656394&sr=8-4&keywords=no+pistons+spacer