(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best ac adapters

Hey all!

First off: THANK YOU!! Thank you to all of you for your profound interest in the project and all the questions! I enjoy sharing any and all information I can :) and thank you for my FIRST Reddit Gold Award! I never would have thought this would merit such an awesome distinction!

I've received a number of queries about how it was put together, different functions, the construction, programming, etc... so I will definitely be putting together a detailed break-down so that anyone interested can follow along and hopefully be inspired to create their own crazy mirror setup!!! Keep an eye out here for that! I'm hoping no later than tomorrow evening but it could be done before or after that. Stay tuned!


Edit: Here is what I have so far for you all!


- Materials

o Raspberry Pi 3 b+ - https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-Raspberry-Quick-Raspbian-Desktop/dp/B07JR3M7FY

o Raspberry Pi fan - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3TKBP/

o Breakout board (testing purposes) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KZY5P6

o USB 5V 3.5A Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE

o 64GB microSD card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCMBLV6

o USB Microphone - https://www.adafruit.com/product/3367

o USB Extension Cord – https://www.adafruit.com/product/993

o USB keyboard/mouse combo – https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SW719NZ

o Raspberry Pi V2 Camera – https://www.adafruit.com/product/3099

o V2 Camera extended cable – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1730

o 4 ohm impedance speakers – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1669

o Speaker Amplifier – https://www.adafruit.com/product/987

o Stereo aux cable - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMM-261-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O5H

o PIR-Motion-Sensor – https://www.adafruit.com/product/189

o Speaker mesh – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMBKNSS/

o Magnets – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SGKY3C/

o Drawer Handle – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Classic-Edge-5-1-16-in-128mm-Center-to-Center-Matte-Black-Drawer-Pull-P34928C-FB-CP/303135233

o Monitor, 28”

o Mirror – https://www.twowaymirrors.com/acrylic/

o 18-22 AWG wire

o Wire Connector Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774NMT1S

o HDX 6’ Extension Cord w/ ground plug - https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-16-3-Indoor-Tight-Space-Cube-Tap-Extension-Cord-White-HD-158-007/202521667



o Lumber/Construction Material:

§ 2”x6” lumber (~200” long) (main frame/wall mounting)

§ 1”x6” lumber (8 ft long) (shelves)

§ 2”x2” lumber (8 ft long) (rear frame border)

§ Red Oak Veneer – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B1AR6E

§ Frame – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weaber-WM-390-9-16-in-x-2-5-8-in-Oak-Chair-Rail-Moulding-73978/205923275

§ 1/8” MDF 2’x4’

§ 1/4” or 3/8” sandwich particle board, 2’x4’

o Construction Hardware:

§ Nails (for helping hold frame to wood while gluing)

§ Wood glue (secure frame)

§ Construction screws:

· #10 x 3.5” Construction Screws

· #8 x 2.5” Construction Screws

· Finishing nails

§ 3D printed pieces (custom 3D modeled and printed at home)

· Speaker/PIR/Microphone trim

· Camera trim/mount

· Speaker Amp/PIR/Microphone mount

· Speaker mount x2

· Pi mounting bracket


- Resources/References

o Raspbian Buster kernel – https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

o Magic Mirror 2 – https://magicmirror.builders/

o Modules: https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror/wiki/3rd-party-modules

§ mmpm (Module Manager)

§ MMM-Face-Reco-DNN (Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-PIR-Sensor (Motion Sensor Functionality)

§ MMM-AssistantMk2 (Google Assistant)

§ MMM-connection-status (Network Connection Check)

§ MMM-pages (Multi-Page Support)

§ MMM-ProfileSwitcher (Multiple Profile Support via Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-SingleStock (Track one stock of choice [my case, Microsoft])

§ MMM-News (News rotating on a 10 second basis)

§ MMM-GoogleMapsTraffic (Traffic Map w/ pins at work locations)

§ MMM-Traffic (Commute time from home to places of employment)

§ MMM-Hotword (hotword detection used in conjunction with Google Assistant)

§ MMM-3Day-Forecast (3 Day forecast for home)

§ MMM-Weather-Now (Weather at work locations)

§ MMM-WatchDog (Watchdog application for lock-up protection)

§ planetrise (rising/setting of planets based on lat/long)

I have not used those specific ones (I looked at the specs, should be fine), but yes, $18 for 5 is a very good deal!

As far as LED strip those are the ones I got:

30 LED / METER:

https://www.amazon.com/Aclorol-Individually-Addressable-Programmable-Non-Waterproof/dp/B07BGSZLGX/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2ANNEXM84Q95&keywords=ws2812b+led+strip&qid=1563212133&s=hi&sprefix=ws2812%2Ctools%2C144&sr=1-6

60 LED / METER

https://www.amazon.com/Aclorol-Individually-Addressable-Programmable-Non-waterproof/dp/B07BH37JGC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=36ERKIO6X2IRZ&keywords=ws2812b+led+strip+60%2Fm&qid=1563212170&s=hi&sprefix=ws2812b+led+strip+60%2Ctools%2C141&sr=1-4

(you do not always need 60 LEDs per meter!!)

​

Power Adapters:

4A:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4HYWAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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2A:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777HWN87/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And to keep it all clean:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNR1ZVL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I pulled all those from my Amazon orders! Hope it helps.

Yeah, those turnigy packs are decent enough, I own a few of the 2S version of those. When ordering LiPos from HK, you want to avoid any backorder items though, they're unreliable at best for being timely on new stock. Also, while they sell some good stuff, there's a fair bit of utter crap on there too, so read reviews...

In addition to the battery, you'd need a charger (I've owned this one, its slow but cheap and effective.):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__21044__Hobbyking_174_DC_4S_Balance_Charger_Cell_Checker_30w_2s_4s.html

with a minimum of a 3A 12v power brick like this (CHECK THE BARREL CONNECTOR! I'm not sure what size that charger uses!):
http://www.amazon.com/Pace-Universal-Adapter-Standard-Supply/dp/B005NDTAEQ

You'd also want a DC/DC step up, perhaps like this one, I'm not 100% sure on the power requirements for your amp...
http://amzn.com/B00NK4LOBC

You may need some extra power caps between the step up and the amp, and you'll definitely want a fuse or a PTC thermistor to cut off the battery from the step up in case something shorts out.

And you'll want to a lipo alarm for a 3S pack, but it would probably be best to find the one for this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Battery-Protection-Circuit-low-voltage-cut-/

You'll need a buck/boost converter. Normally you'd just need a voltage regulator. The typical cheap method would be with a switching regulator something like a Murata 7805SR. However, those require a minimum input voltage of 7.5V.

So instead you'll need a buck/boost converter if you want to run at 7.4-6.2 (and probably lower). Adafruit has one but you'll probably want something that can handle more than 1A. Shop around on amazon a bit, there are several different converters that should work okay. Pololu also makes a few buck/boost converters that are specifically for 5V.

edit: i should also say something like the fixed 5V output Pololu converter, while more expensive will probably give you better efficiency than any of the other converters.

Funk, thank you for getting my wheels turning. From what I am beginning to gather, if I can find the right 60w power supply, and can find a 2-way splitter, this could have a shot?

12v 5A 60W Power Supply

ALITOVE 24V 3A 72W

DIGITHARBOR 5.5x2.1mm Splitter

Should I be worried about a higher amp count? I.e. 4A? Or will amps be split? Is there another subreddit for this kind of AV stuff? (I want to see if there is any favorite options amongst those cats, but I like where you have me going right now)

Again, your help on this is much appreciated!

I have the breakout board and picked up this 5v4A PSU from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4HYWAM/

(it was $9 on prime when I got it)


To deliver power to the board I found a snap-on right angle molex connector in my parts bin, cut the barrel plug off the PSU, and attached the connector. I don't know the official name for it but this is what it looks like:

https://i.imgur.com/JvZHl3F.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8dQJQhy.jpg

So far it has worked great and it frees up the screw down connectors to power accessories. You can see a fan powered there in the second picture.

Landscape edging: https://thd.co/1iWcILO

LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQV6Q4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lBEgzbGCKJFKQ

Power supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KM3OIAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dCEgzbZV2F3W3

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CM30TQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WCEgzb9027XB0

I used contact cement to help keep the LEDs on the edging.

I'll add pictures of the whole deal tonight.

Glad Y'all like it! 😊

I personally did this research recently and opted out of RGB and for high CRI strips that are very bright but very dimmable. Total cost was not as cheap as I had originally expected, but the end concept seems like it will come together well. Here's my equipment list (though in my case i've purchased multiple strips):

​

|16.5 ft 95 CRI Warm LED Strip|$99.00|https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/ultra-high-95-cri-led-strip-lights-for-home-residential?variant=5776159014941 |
|:-|:-|:-|
|24V 10A Power Supply|$19.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RYWZMH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AA0YO4F2UD50F&psc=1 |
|20 pack 3.3 ft Alu Channel|$46.90|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072VZSQ3P/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AN8BOPYGQ9JVK&psc=1 |
|Shelly RGBW 2 Controller|$21.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N49TXLQ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AFXZFGKJMX9E4&psc=1 |

​

This allows me to control four separate white strips with on/off and dimming capabilities but does not accommodate for a physical switch, though it easily could be incorporated into this setup.

Welcome!

​

If you get that small amplifier (or something like it), you may need a power supply. This looks decent: https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Converter-Transformer-5-5x2-1mm-Computer/dp/B078RY7BPL/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1550995500&sr=1-7&keywords=24+volt+computer+power+supply

​

A lot of these sorts of amps can take differing voltages. Make sure you get something that puts out decent amps and is in the right DC voltage range.

​

Here is more info about the actual chip: http://www.ti.com/product/TPA3116D2

​

Also - when you build your computer, make sure you pick a good sound card!

​

EDIT: On second thought you could just go with a cheap, premade buck-boost converter circuit which gives you what you want. See here. This should save you a lot of time, headaches, and give you a relatively good circuit! Pick any solar panel which will be able to output somewhere comfortably above 3.8V, and below 32V. Your existing 6V solar panel will work fine for this.

---
The way it works is by exploiting inductors properties of wanting to maintain a current. This allows you to, with charging and discharging switching, maintain a certain desired output!

Read more here.

---

In a lot of Solar electronic applications you would use a buck-boost converter. Done right, they can be highly efficient and give you the output you need. Do note though, you can never get more energy out than you put in so you may not get your 5V @ 400mA output. You could end up loading it down with low currents as well causing the voltage to drop. The output of the solar panel will determine the input power, of course. You will need to overcome a certain limit for the buck-boost converter to start to work. From my experience, most buck-boost regulator chips have a low-input voltage of 3.0V meaning as long as the Solar panel can provide 3.0V or more (up to 36V or greater typically) it will work and give you a constant 5.0V, or whatever you choose as an output.

For such a low voltage range, if you choose to entertain this idea, try to find a buck-boost regulator which requires a low reference voltage to give you less issues (e.g. NCP3066)


This will allow you to power your phone. There are a lot of other issues that may arise:

• As you attempt to draw more current from the regulated output, the voltage ripple may increase so you may get 1V ripple current. The output will swing rapidly from 5V, to 6V or more, or down to 4V or less as the regulator tries to maintain the constant voltage.
  
  
• You may load it down too much causing severe instability similar to the first point, or to a point where it is inoperable. Just as any source, it could cause the solar panel to be loaded down too much, switching the regulator off, and then just causing a nasty mess for you.
  

I have these: [press in bottle adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/PRESS-BOTTLE-ADAPTER-24MM-BAG20/dp/B001V9QXRS) in my nicotine, PG and VG bottles and just draw off what I need into an oral syringe as I'm mixing. The syringes get rinsed, dried and reused. One of them is marked NIC ONLY so I don't mix them up. Haven't had one wear out yet, but I haven't used them too much.

I like to keep the nic bottles at the top in the back of the freezer in a ziploc bag. I don't want to have too many bottles of it around the house. Too many curious kids. I'm sure it's better to have a smaller working bottle, but kids get into the weirdest places sometimes.

One tip - use heat shrink or electrical tape on your soldered connections so they're not exposed and able to short. This sounds like a cool project. Good luck!

Edit: one more tip - that power supply isn't UL listed. If you buy one that is (like this one), it should be a little safer and potentially higher quality parts.

1 - Finding a 12V power adapter should not be hard. The only reason you'll have a hard time is finding one with a plug the same size. (There are adapters that come with multiple tips, they're a little gimmicky but they definitely do work.)

2 - It depends on how confident you are with wiring, but splicing a cable together is pretty straightforward. Heck, if it's not important for the lamp to be unpluggable you could even just open up the lamp and give it a permanent wire hookup.

OK, then a good solution is to go ahead and wire it up using an adjustable power supply as this redditor suggests.

All of those pieces are needed for reliability and safety. The solution I just linked above includes those pieces in the plug.

I didn’t design or write the code for this, just followed the instructions for the Raspberry Pi project created by u/RushShirtKid and explained in this post on r/baseball. Direct link to the instructions here (but wouldn't hurt to at least glance through the r/baseball post for some good info). Would highly recommend if you want to tackle a small, straightforward project!

Edit: some additional info- it doesn't have to just show one game, you can have it cycle through all the games, or cycle through other games only during inning breaks, or customize it a bunch of other ways!

Edit 2:
You'll see in the instructions there are multiple options as far as parts, so it's up to you which direction you want to go. But if you're curious, these are all the parts I used:

Raspberry Pi 3 B+ w/Power Supply

5V Power Supply for the LED Matrix

64x32 RGB LED Matrix, 5mm pitch (see the project instructions for other size options)

Matrix Bonnet (connects LED matrix to the Pi)

You'll also need some kind of display (tv, monitor, etc) that you can connect to the Pi via HDMI for the setup. And a mouse/keyboard that you can connect to the Pi via usb.

The Spectrum (Canopy/Tweed) syringe works well with the Redecan bottle. Personally, I detest Redecan’s syringe.

I haven’t ordered these but they look like they’ll work;

PRESS IN BOTTLE ADAPTER 24MM BAG20 by HEALTH CARE LOGISTICS ***** https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001V9QXRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tiTFDb9P1QVR6

1ml Oral Tuberculin Syringes by Terumo - 100 Pack - Luer Slip Tip, No Needle, FDA Approved, Without Needle, Individually Blister Packed - Medicine Administration for Adults, Infants, Toddlers and Small Pets - Made in Japan - Box of 100 Syringes 1cc. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075JS7Z6H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SjTFDb6MDCMKW

In my example, I believe I would need 3 FLS-PP IP Zigbee ballasts ($55ea), 1-2 RGBW LED strips ($17ea), 3 power adaptors ($17ea), a splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$268 on the conservative end + tax.

Or I could buy 3 Hue lightstrips ($90ea), splitter (~$15ea), and 4 ethernet cable adaptors (~$20 total). Grand total ~$305 + tax.

I could save ~$40 or bite the bullet and know that my current ecosystem will work seamlessly with the Hue lightstrips. Either way its not cheap but there are trade offs to going the DIY route.

Please disprove my estimates/theory, I would happily pay less for a setup with equal functionality :)

P.S. I'll add links to the items listed above but I'm on the train commuting in and the wifi sucks :/

I made my own toolbox for my work, since there wasn't really one out there. I know there is a library (different word, same thing essentially, right?) for what I do in python, but ultimately this is for fun.

I found a couple sensor kits that seem to have good documentation. Here is my amazon list if anyone could point out an obvious oversight. I have a monitor, keyboard, and mouse.

The "Freenove Ultimate Starter Kit for Rasperry Pi" and "Sunfounder Rasperry Pi 37 modules sensor kit v2.0"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07896TMD9/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W54L7B5/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719SX3GC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AIDH4D2DQX4RX&psc=1

Yes, I thought it might be complicated. Do you suppose it was custom-made, or is that just how they rolled in the '90s? You've spent a lot of time on this already, so I'm thinking it might be easier to go with the universal power supply option. Does this one look like a good bet to you?

I went to the last winter event.

Like /u/calvinlf2 said, get there early. And you might want sunscreen too for the morning wait. Having water was necessary even in the winter.

I read somewhere else that Goodsmile has an endless amount of the event Mikus and that you can swing by whenever and grab one. This is not correct. When I made it back by, pretty much everything was cleaned out. Thankfully I don't care much for Miku and I did manage to grab Wonda-chan when I went by the booth.

My camera is thirsty on the power so I ended up using 2 batteries and my Power Bank (smaller version of this) really ended up saving my day.

native booth stole the show for me. Well worth the wait in line.

Hi Mate!
You need following Items (on amazon) to power your Hue Lightstrip:


This is the Power Adapter
It's Important that it has 24Volt and at least 20Watt power- this adapter is able to output 24 Watts

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Supply-Black-Generic/dp/B00J8CG86G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473516394&sr=8-1


This is a female to female coupler which you need to connect your lightstrip to the power adapter

https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises%C2%AE-2-1mm-Coupler-Female/dp/B002IULV8U/ref=sr_1_sc_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473516505&sr=8-5-spell

This is is will cost $12.28


If you have further questions just ask.

I hope I could help you :)

Splicing em together will work but may not be a long term solution. You would really want to splice and solder the wires together. And definitely make sure the wires are not touching.

Personally I have a soldering iron and could get it done, but I'd probably just buy another 12V, 500mA adapter. Easy and cheap, <$10. You can get em all over.

Never used this, but it showed up when I searched online and I don't see why it wouldn't be a good fit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019X3XVWS?ref_=pd_lpo_421_tr_t_2&refRID=HQXMMHAXBWW8PF3A9C2R&sa-no-redirect=1&pldnSite=1

Note that the above is rated for 1A, while the MFLB provided adapter is rated for 500mA (0.5A). This is fine, the box should only draw what it needs. If you happen to find an adapter rated lower than 500mA it will probably work but you're not going to be operating at full power which would be frustrating. Stick with 500mA minimum. And 12V output, that part is important.

Before you run to the store you may even find you have other devices in your house that provide the same functionality. Check your modem or router, home telephone, old electronic toys, etc and you might find those adapters work. Could hold you over until you get a real replacement. If you happen to find one post up the specs and I can check it out.

It's the other side of the power adapter that will cost ya, would have to go back to MFLB for that. Your dog picked the right side to chew!

Thanks for the quick answer :)

6S BMS: https://www.amazon.com/TOOGOO-Protection-Li-ion-Lithium-Battery/dp/B075XDV8BG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525203000&sr=8-1

Charger: https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Power-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-3264-24V/dp/B074GJ22P6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525534070&sr=8-5


I am a bit confuesed :D I always thught a BMS is enough and balances, charge and discharge the cells.

And It will not work with the 24V charger due to the internal resistance which will raise the voltage? It sounded logical when I heard it the firs time..

I hope dont annoy you too much.. :|

No. You would parallel the woofer and tweeter crossovers on a single channel. Then, use the other channel when you get another speaker.

I would try it with a 12-volt power supply like this. Unless you like your music very loud, this will be enough.

Good luck!

It largely depends on how much length you need. If you only need a few feet, the regular light strips from Phillips are your best bet. If you're doing long runs, it can be a lot cheaper to go 3rd party.

I ran about 30 feet for my apartment using 3rd party, and spent a little over $100. I compared it to the light strips and it would have been around $450 using just light strips. So far the integration has been super easy.

Here's what I bought:

1x FLS-PP for $55 (this is what you use to control the lights via the Hue app)

1x 12v power supply for $12

1x set of pigtails (only needed one of them, so a local AV or tech store might sell individual ones) for $5

2x 16ft SUPERNIGHT RWBWW LED Strips for $17/ea

They aren't as bright and as uniform as the Hue Lightstrips, but you get what you pay for. The Hue Lighstrips are $90 for 6.5feet, and I would have needed 5 boxes total, so $450 just for the strips.

I had it plugged in to a 20,000mAh Anker battery: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Qualcomm-Backwards-Compatible/dp/B01J5P98SK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484783749&sr=8-2&keywords=anker+20%2C000

Do it!!

Some people carry poles/totems, and hang them on those, and some get the headband or chestband, but I got a little clip that worked great on my camelbak strap: https://www.amazon.com/General-Adjustable-Stabilizer-Action-Camera/dp/B00K3GI8Y6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484783813&sr=8-3&keywords=gopro+clip+mount

You want to use 24v strip in these cases in order to not have to deal with power injection, which is where novices can easily get into trouble. With 24v you can run up to 10M, or 32.8ft, and is such often sold in 10M reels. Purchase four of these and cut each down to the length of it's respective wall, being sure to only cut on the line in the center of the copper pads every 6 LEDs.

{With addressable strip, the pixel "size" is TYPICALLY determined by voltage, so for 24v strip, each 6 LEDs will act as a single "pixel," when playing back patterns, 12v strip is 3 LEDs, 5v is 1.}

After cutting the strip to length, you will want to remove the connectors from the cut off ends and solder them to your new ends. IT IS IMPORTANT FOR THIS SCENARIO TO NOT solder on the RED (+24v) wire, as it will be safer to use 4 smaller power supplies, you are only wanting to interconnect the green Data wire and white Ground wire between each strip. If using IP68 waterproof strip, don't forget to remove the silicone endcap from your cut end, replacing it on the new end with a dab of silicone sealant.

Attach the 2.1mm socket adapters to the RED (+) and White (-) bare wires at the beginning of each strip using a jewelers screwdriver. Connect the 3-pin connectors between each strip, and tape off the bare wires with electrical tape, then connect the PSUs to the last three strips. For the first strip, connect it's PSU to the 2.1mm splitter, plugging one end into the strip and the other into the controller. Wire the 3pin connector included with the controller to the Data and Ground of the controller, again in this case, DO NOT CONNECT THE RED (+24v) WIRE to the controller; just wrap the end in electrical tape. Finally, connect the 3-pin connector from the controller to the first strip and power up your PSUs. From here it's just configuring the controller with your phone or tablet.

4x: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Visdoll-Flexible-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B075GCKPHB?th=1&psc=1

4x:https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074GJ22P6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A325274ZEF9XYZ&psc=1

1x: https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Controller-Individually-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B01LW1J10W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541825064&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4+output+ws2811+controller&psc=1

1x: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Female-Connector-Security-Adapter/dp/B079RCNNCK

1x: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6G5DJ0/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1

Okay. Thank you for the clarification! Youre teaching me a lot and answering a lot of my questions.


So the psu that came with the kit have a max current of 4a at an output of 24v. Would something like this https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Transformer-Universal-Regulated-Switching/dp/B078RYWZMH/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=24v+10a+power+supply&qid=1567213879&s=gateway&sprefix=24v+10&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySE4zMDUyWDRZQllNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTM2NTUzRlBBUjJYNkE5WTRPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4NjY3MzMxTzI5UDVXWlJaSzc0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= work?

24v at 10amp. Is this enough to run all 4 reels? How would I split from 1 pair of terminal of the psu to 2 pairs at the decoder?

Definitely trying to get this done before it rains.

The ONT needs 12 volts at 1 amp. What is the PSU providing that it couldn't be replaced by a 12v DC wall wart like this.

Thanks for letting me know you've seen an enclosure work.

interesting, okay thanks. does your reply change at all knowing that:

​

A) this is the power supply used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719SX3GC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

B) i've actually already tried this on two SD cards

Holy cow man, thank you! You've been of so much help! So would something like this do the trick? I just searched Universal Power Supply on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-ACD477-Universal-Supply/dp/B000Z31G3M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369441643&sr=8-2&keywords=universal+power+supply

Some 2.5A supplies are fine, some are not. I use these with 100% success so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Micro-USB-Charger-Raspberry-Pi-Adapter/dp/B00L88M8TE

If you have a few supplies, try them out and check the throttled flag after booting. If it's 0x0 after booting, it should be fine.

Looks like this is the same thing on eBay, with this being an image of the back (thanks for not including that, or directly saying that the issue is the lack of power cord).

That would mean you can get this universal power supply, set it to 12V 1A, pick the right connector, and you're good to go (for just $10)!

Or, if 3BirbsInARainCoat is correct saying it's 2.1mm, then you can just get this for $7 and you're good to go.

thank you very much for the warning / info. Thankfully I didn't plug it in. I ended up getting a 5v / 4a adapter.

This one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4HYWAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Again, thanks for the information!

Went through my Amazon orders and dug out the plug that I’m using in case it helps.. been working fine since 2015 according to when I ordered it! :)

Brennenstuhl Travel Mains Plug EU... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001L2UN6C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Couldn't you just use something like this and just make your life easy?

https://www.amazon.com/110v-Power-Supply-Molex-5000mA/dp/B002TJNDU4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481139320&sr=8-1&keywords=molex+to+ac+5a

It's a standard power supply rated at 12 volts / 3 amps output,

this should work......

https://www.amazon.com/Pace-Universal-Adapter-Standard-Supply/dp/B005NDTAEQ

That tip should work, wish I could say for sure, but it looks exactly like mine and that seems to be a standard for a 12 volt adapter.

Okay, so the Walmart AC adapter is only 500mA. So that's not happening.

On amazon I found this 5A adapter and this 2A adapter.

Combined with this splitter, would these be a good solution? Is it possible to have too many amps and destroy the pump and fan?

Yes, buy this replacement power cable:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I had the same issue. Problem solved. :)

​

Okay, so I have a small Class T Amplifier which powers a set of bookshelf speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

Today, the power went out, and when it came back on, the amp wasn't working. I tried a different power supply and it seemed to work, so I surmise that the power supply for the amp for fried. Both power supplies are 24V, but the original is 4.5A, compared to 1A for the spare that belongs to a different device.

Here's an image of the label for the original power supply:

http://i.imgur.com/S44i4W9.jpg

I can't seem to find a precise match for 24V 4.5A on Amazon. This was the closest I could find:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AJQ9G2C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481615067&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=24v+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=51iJNRE6X6L&ref=plSrch

Would that work? Or is the fact that the amps are too high a problem?

it comes with the German two ping plug.

Got one of these ordered but you can pretty much use any eu -> uk adapter

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001L2UN6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They use molex or sata power connectors.
If you want to test with your psu, make sure nothing else (motherboard, gpu, drive, ...) is connected and jump start your psu.
What I did last time was buy a 12V psu with molex connector and used that. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TJNDU4

Buy a 3amp power supply. I had the same issue until I picked up a 3amp and, wow, night and day difference.
FWIW This is the one I purchased. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L88M8TE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Bought this one and love it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019IFIJW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bGEozb1N3AR2K

Didn't like this one because it didn't quick charge. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5P98SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.GEozbVDQYKTA

raspberry pi 3, SATA add-on board, 120g SSD, 5v 4a power brick, nice case.

add-on board:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073CGQD9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ssd:
https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Memory-Burst-120GB-Internal/dp/B07574MTR4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=120gb+ssd+patriot&qid=1554437313&s=gateway&sr=8-1

power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4HYWAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

case:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRZRW7J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am newbie too! I use very newbie friendly methods. No solder!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078RT3ZPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just use one of those every 150 leds. If I am using the 300 led strip, the 60/m for 5m, I use 8amps instead of 5. The connector that comes with the power supply works directly with the led strips from the same company.

Amazon has a Prime-able supply for $9 here that looks like it would fit the 2.5mm jack on the breakout board.

​

I don't have the breakout, and had some 2.1mm jacks lying around, so ended up ordering a 5A, 2.1mm supply for $14 that came with an inline jack from Amazon here.

But this way you won't need to use the wall adapter to power the ERX, so it's still the same amount of cables. But if you want to use a wall adapter that has enough power for the ERX and the PoE output, this adapter should work:
https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Power-Adapter-Supply-Black/dp/B00J8CG86G

Basically, any 24v power supply capable of more than about 10w (so 0.5A or greater) that has a barrel plug with size 5.5x2.1x10mm

Yes, you should get one.

http://www.amazon.de/Brennenstuhl-Schutzkontakt-Reiseadapter-13-250-schwarz/dp/B001L2UN6C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426297533&sr=8-1&keywords=uk+adapter

Shouldve got a mac.


Not to be preachy or anything, but seriously. I have a 2008 macbook that runs all djing software and hardware i have ever tried to use on it, and thats after about 200 nights in a club too. You can get an old used macbook pro for about 400-500$ and then put a $100 SSD in it and have a REALLY sweet computer for not a lot of cash, and the metal ones like a pro last forever.

I know i sound preachy, im sorry, its just macs would solve damn near any problem a modern dj would have.


BUT! to answer your question: heres this one from NI for http://www.native-instruments.com/en/products/traktor/dj-accessories/bags-cases-and-control-media/overview/pricing-power-supply/

It is a 9v 1200 mA. Those are standardish.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-ACD477-Universal-Supply/dp/B000Z31G3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406735108&sr=8-1&keywords=9v+1200ma+power+supply

I was thinking something like these for a power cable:

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Switching-Supply-Adapter-100-240/dp/B01N4HYWAM

https://www.amazon.com/d/Small-Device-AC-Air-Conditioner-Adapters-Power-Supply/SMAKN-Switching-Supply-Adapter-100-240/B00LN3FC0G

Is something like this not an option?

I've been having this problem with my Rasperry Pi and Octoprint lately, and I don't know how to fix it. I'm at my wits end. OctoPrint is reporting undervolting of my RPi, but I've tried different power supplies. I've had a Rhino 5V 2.5A, and switched to this PWR+ 3.5A Power Supply hoping that it'd fix it but it's still happening. Anyone have any idea what I can do? Because when I do prints with heavy infill it tends to just pause, leaving blobs everywhere as seen in OP. It's driving me nuts!

I'm running Klipper firmware on it, with nothing plugged in to the RPi except for the printer. I have also tried different outlets and nothing seems to fix it..

I'm working on an arcade1up mod using linux mint and retropie on the "Atomic Pi" x86 sbc ($40).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DQnRKGDkdztzrmHTA

It's not easy playing with one hand :)

​

Atomic Pi SBC https://www.amazon.com/Atomic-Pi-High-Speed-Peripheral/dp/B07N298F2B

Breakout Board (small) https://www.amazon.com/Breakout-Adapter-2-5mm-Barrel-Supply/dp/B07RPQN1Z7/

Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Switching-Supply-Adapter-100-240/dp/B01N4HYWAM/

Arcade1up Killer Instinct Graphics kit https://www.escapepodonline.com/collections/arcade1up/products/arcade1up-killer-instinct-complete-art-kit


optional* Arcade1up Street Fighter control deck https://arcade1up.com/collections/control-decks/products/street-fighter-control-deck


note* lcd controller, joysticks, buttons, audio amplifier can be used from other retropie/arcade1up guides.

You would need to pick up another HBA, with external SFF-8088 connectors on it, and hook it up to a JBOD enclosure.

Another option I've explored from time to time is something like this enclosure with breakout cables and a power supply.

The only reason I haven't jumped on the latter is because I don't fully trust the voltage regulation on that power supply (or any others I've found).

Never heard of this brand. I trust Anker enough to buy a 20k mAh Quick Charge IQ power bank for $50 on Amazon.

Anker PowerCore Speed 20000 QC, Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 Portable Charger, Backwards Compatible With Quick Charge 1 & 2, with Power IQ, 20000 mAh Power Bank for Samsung, iPhone, iPad and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5P98SK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_att4yb5FRPACK

Yes. Use a 24vdc power supply with 6+ amps and then use a buck converter to drop the 24v to 5v.

Buck converter

Power supply

Unfortunately, that probably won't work. Hopefully you haven't already ordered it. I'll check in a sec but I want to warn you quickly. This dock needs the same kind of proprietary variable voltage charger that the OEM Switch dock requires to function. I have a 20k mAh pack too, I'll check and see if it will run it.

Edit -
Alrighty, I was wrong, my power pack can indeed run this little dock :) However, it appears that the switch will not charge at the same time. I just played a couple races of Mario Kart and my battery percentage went down a couple points.
This is specifically the charger I own: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J5P98SK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have time, you may want to wait for any deals or specials. I got the Anker PowerCore Speed 20000 QC, Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 Portable Charger back in March for $35.

I have seen this power supply recommended:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8CG86G/

It's been sitting in my cart on Amazon forever, have been meaning to order it but it never seems like a priority.

https://www.amazon.com/PRESS-BOTTLE-ADAPTER-24MM-BAG20/dp/B001V9QXRS/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1518541413&sr=8-4&keywords=medicine+bottle+caps

They have several sizes, though I don't think they have any big enough for the stock amox bottles.

Neutron takes 12v 1A.

This should do.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019X3XVWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7mAFDbP8EE0SQ

SMAKN DC 5V/4A 20W Switching Power Supply Adapter

This one works for mine

Here's a kit without a charger for $50, and a charger for under $7

I use these power supplies for my nodemcu’s and have had 0 issues.

Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply 5V... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719SX3GC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

could i used one of these?

For the record, this is the power supply I used, and its been reliable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002TJNDU4

you could also buy of of those universal adapters which have multiple plugs and adjustable voltage.

nb: i have never used this particular one. it is just an example i found using google.

If you're hellbent on it, they make external power for molex, then just molex to sata.

Here you go: http://www.amazon.com/110v-Power-Supply-Molex-5000mA/dp/B002TJNDU4

One of the included heads should work: http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-ACD477-100-240V-Voltage-Adaptor/dp/B000Z31G3M/ref=acc_glance_hi_ai_ps_t_2

This is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/110v-Power-Supply-Molex-5000mA/dp/B002TJNDU4

Are you in the US?

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Power-Adapter-Supply-Black/dp/B00J8CG86G

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011AQCDLG

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Controller-Regulator-Modulator-Indicator/dp/B00DVGGWC0

https://www.amazon.com/Minger-Supply-Adapter-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B01AJQ9G2C

I used these at the device:
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-DC-DC-Module-Charger-Arduino/dp/B01HXU1C6U

And connected them to one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Transformer-Universal-Regulated-Switching/dp/B078RYWZMH/ref=mp_s_a_1_6

That speaker wire should be plenty big enough.

One of these:

​

Amazon 5VDC 4A Switching supply

Yes, that is exactly the way it was behaving! Sadly, I was not in Research Scientist Mode and did several things at the same time. I do remember that a fresh, unmodified, image would work fine, but after screwing with the installation the problem recurred. Since it has been 2 months ago that this was a problem and it "went away" at the same time I used a filtered electrical supply source, I can't say for sure that that was the cause; I earnestly believe that it was due to something I was modifying in my Lubuntu 19.04 installation and when I quit that track, the connection remained working. Also, I was using a 5V 4A PSU (https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Switching-Supply-Adapter-100-240/dp/B01N4HYWAM/ref=sr_1_4?) with Zeric100's power board (https://www.reddit.com/r/Atomic_Pi/comments/cmy6ix/another_power_board_design/)

Again, I apologize for not being of further help

This is the one I use. I typically won't go any longer than 3ft for the cord if I'm planning on using the USB ports for a hard drive and other things but this has never once given me an under-voltage problem. I use it for a Pi with a DAC, 2 flash drives and the Official Raspberry Pi Touchscreen and it works perfectly. Same for the little all in one console I made with a hard drive, official touchscreen, and controllers. The title is a little misleading, it is 3.5A even though it lists 2A-3.5A in the title.

Pwr Replacement Charger 5V 2A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L88M8TE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is definitely not it, but something interesting I discovered tonight. I was looking a couple of nights ago at the extension for stopping a print at a specific layer for a filament change. I didn't print anything with it; I just looked at the settings and stuff. Apparently, I turned the feature on during my looking. It was now active for any prints through Cura. Then I remembered the other night I was printing a file from Thingiverse and it suddenly paused in the middle of the job. I wrote it off as bad Gcode. Now I think that the pause-at-layer extension was active when I set up that job and the problem was me and not the job itself. By the way, when I first set up my 3B+, I got the low voltage message in Octoprint. So I replaced the psu with this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I don't get the message any more.

Found it, looks good! I guess including "barrel" in my search earlier didn't help me. Doesn't say if it's UL listed or anything though.

Probably, but the trouble with so-called "barrel" connectors is they come in at least 3 or 4 sizes. It's hard to tell from a picture whether a particular power adapter will fit your device.

EDIT: Though, you could buy a universal adapter and set the switch to 12V.

Thanks all! I went with the Anker--- but for some reason my prices were much lower than on /u/blackmagician's link. I went with this which was on sale for 49.99 and will be here by Monday.

I would go higher than 2.5a

I have had zero issues with this

SMAKN DC 5V/4A 20W Switching... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4HYWAM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Obviously, wrong prongs but at that price + an adapter may be cheaper ?

Not a doctor, but I figure that's probably how it works out -- some loss but probably not an inordinate amount.

This was the one, weighs 14oz, about the size of two decks of cards sitting side by side: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01J5P98SK/

If you have multimeter you could measure what it draws for current, it might be under the threshold but I doubt it. It will most likely run off 5v no problem so you could just get any old cheap 5v cell phone charger and solder the connections to the battery case terminals or get something like this, I just picked up a couple of these (not this exact one) at a Radio Shack clearance for about $1 a piece.