(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best audio cables

Awesome.

So, you'll want something like this. It has a 3.5mm jack out and supports tons of streaming services as well as bluetooth. If you can find a chromecast audio anywhere, that might even be better, especially if you don't need to talk to it.

For speakers, these ascend acoustics will be your best bet. They're awesome speakers, with detailed highs and plenty of low end extension.

If they'll be close to a wall, or if you'd just rather order from amazon, these elacs are fantastic speakers. The front port means you can put them close to the wall, so that won't be a problem. They're a very easy to listen to speaker IMO. I have them and I like them a lot.

These monitor audio speakers will sound a bit better (better detail, tighter midrange, etc) but will have a bit less low end extension.

These by HSU might be a gamble. Reviews are scarce, but the ones that are out there are great. Mine aren't here yet so I can't give you any more info than that. Sorry.

Last one (and my personal favorite) is a pair of kef q150. Stunning details, low and tight bass, amazing vocals, the whole 9. They'd be closer to the top of your budget, but they are absolutely fantastic speakers. I really like them a lot.

That budget is kinda in a 'no mans land' for speakers. It's between where the 'budget' speakers are and where the 'high end' speakers start, if that makes sense. Those are pretty much all the ones in that price range, but those are some pretty solid options.

You'll need a way to power them as well.

If you don't have tons of space, a little chip amp could do the trick. I've got a bunch of those and they're all great, but not the best.

Your next best bet would be a 2 channel receiver. Even better, if you're okay with refurbished, a Denon receiver would be great.

To connect the speakers to the receiver/amp, you'll need speaker wire. You can cut it and strip it with a knife or scissors, but this will make the job easier.

Oh, and you'll need this to connect the echo to the receiver. And this one if you go with the chromecast audio.

How does this all look?

When you record with MIDI, you don't actually record any sound at all, you record which keys you press and when you press the sustain pedal and so on. All your actions, but no sound.


If you want to get the sound from the piano, you can use a cable from the headphone output on the piano, to the microphone input in your computer with a standard 3.5mm jack (unless you have a 1/4 inch in your piano, in which case you need the little transformer).

You will need a cable like this, but you'll most likely have one somewhere, it's a very standard cable.

Now you can just use any audio recording software you want. Audacity was mentioned, which could easily do it. I believe Windows has a built in sound recording feature, which could do it as well.


If you want to get a REALLY good sound, you should still use the MIDI format, but you'd have to get a good piano sound too. Here's a collection of good sounds. It's quite expensive though. You can edit your track with software too, I don't know if Audacity can do that, it might, but I use something called Reaper. If you made a missplay or something went wrong, you can remove a note, add notes, change velocity, everything. It's quite good and not that difficult at all. With the piano sound software (Komplete) you can use it in real-time too, to make your piano sound like the grandest of all the grand pianos, for an amazing sound, though I'd suggest you go for Synthogy then which, to me at least, has the superior sound.

Whelp, I went out on a tangent here, good luck OP!

EDIT: How do you like your piano? I have the Privia 850 here next to me, just waiting for christmas to set it up.

Small space with a $320-350 budget? Here is what I would consider.

Package deal - Pioneer AVR and FS52 Floorstanders $310

• You'll get a Pioneer AVR (meh but should do fine for a 2.0/2.1 setup) and two FS52 floorstanders at a great price. This setup should not need a sub until you get a bigger place because you don't want to piss the neighbors off. Add in the some speaker wire $10 and HDMI cables $9 (see below) and you're good. This should should better than any bose setup or just about any setup for this price. This really is a good deal.
  
  Separates - if you know you're going to expand later consider a better AVR but it costs more and you step down to books vs floorstanders.
  
  AVR - Denon S510BT $230
  
  Speakers - Pioneer BS22 and wire bundle $100
  
  Misc - Speaker stands $40 and HDMI cables $10
  
  
• Skip the stands if you want but they will make a difference as you can get them wider than the TV stand and you can get them out from the wall a bit. Positioning really does help with the overall sound of a system.
  
  
• The BS22 are fairly large books so putting them on a TV stand can be tricky. I went with them because of the better bass response over the Miccas Destruct0 mentioned. If you know you're going to get a sub in the future consider the Miccas as I like them better with a system as the highs are better than the Pioneers. They just don't reach as deep which is an important factor if not using a sub.
  

Thanks. I don't have a link but I'll try to explain step by step.

1. In the past I had various audio inputs fed to my receiver and video inputs fed to my TV. The problem was keeping things in sync when you changed inputs. I knew that the DVD player was Input 1 on the TV and Aux 2 on the receiver but no one else in the family could ever remember the combinations.
   
   
2. With HDMI carrying both audio and video the obvious answer was to feed it all to the TV and then take one digital audio output from there to the receiver. This worked great. When you switch sources on the TV you don't need to switch anything on the receiver. Everybody was happy.
   
   
3. But now I wanted to listen to Pandora (or iTunes, or the hockey game, ...) outside on my deck and driveway. My receiver can handle my 5.1 surround in the family room but does not have another set of speaker outputs. Even if it did how could I control the volumes separately? I found that my receiver does have an analog audio output that can be fed to a recording device BUT this output does not work when the input to the receiver is digital. This is true for most receivers on the market unless you spend $$$$ to get a high-end one with multiple zone capability.
   
   
4. I eventually realized I would have to get the signal for the outdoor speakers AHEAD of my receiver. My TV, like most on the market today, does not have multiple sets of audio outputs. The only choice for me was to take the digital fiber optic one I was already sending to the receiver and split it. I read a lot of reviews and decided to go for a powered splitter that actually recreates the signal. Passive ones that split the light signal using a mirror/prism are cheaper but can be unreliable. I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1UWSR6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works perfectly.
   
   
5. So now I have an SPDIF out from that device into my receiver and another one to use for my outdoor audio. These amps however do not have an SPDIF input as they do not contain a digital-to-analog converter. So I had to convert from SPDIF to RCA analog. I went with this converter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7O0/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
6. But now I have a single set of RCA ouputs and two amps that need inputs. RCA is easy to split so I bought these cheap cables to do it: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I94FAE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
7. From there the RCA is fed into two of the amps that OP shows above. From there it goes into 100' of high grade speaker cable: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023902&p_id=2820&seq=1&format=2 and then into these Polk speakers (one set for the deck and another for the driveway): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00378KMEG/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   So the setup is: TV inputs --> TV --> digital splitter --> D to A converter --> RCA splitter cables --> these two amps --> Polk speakers. It sounds surprisingly good with strong bass and crisp highs. I can control all three volumes independently (family room receiver and each of these amps). I just used it for a big party we had Saturday night (80+ people). I had a playlist in iTunes on my computer served up by my Plex server. This was then picked up by my Roku 3 attached to the TV. It worked flawlessly.

(Reposting from a different thread I replied to previously, plus some modifications with better details)



I have done this on a 2017, which should use a similar system and can be swapped out in the same fashion. There are a few caveats that may sway your decision however.



The radio I bought for my Corolla is the Kenwood DMX-905S, but you can get any radio that has the iDatalink Serial port on the back (should be mentioned specifically in the description on whatever site you buy it from) which brings me to the next point...



I used the iDatalink Maestro RR with the TO2 harness that allowed a very straight-forward installation with no modification to the factory wiring. This module allows your radio to interface with all the OEM functionality that is normally configured with the radio and prevents having to deal with a metric ton of ridiculous wiring. This is not where this story ends, however.



The Maestro and harness kits do not come with the adapters required for factory USB, Aux (sort of), AM/FM radio, GPS, Satellite Radio, or any integration for the factory microphone. This last part is what has pained me the most in this whole thing, as I've yet to install the aftermarket microphone or make the attempts necessary to try to get the factory one working. I've got lots of wiring diagrams, but no free time. There have supposedly been some successful attempts online, but naturally only by someone who was planning to sell adapters for it and essentially abandoned the forum and project entirely without ever releasing ANY details.



I used this Axxess adapter for the factory USB. Fits perfectly, just plug into the radio and the factory connector. Wrap the radio USB end with TESA tape so it doesn't disconnect.



The antenna adapters for GPS and Satellite Radio are available from iDatalink as the ACC-SAT-TO2 kit. They should connect directly to the factory harnesses and then to the new radio, but if they don't work for you this is not required to be a specific iDatalink replacement so you may be able to find another brand that works. I own this kit, but have yet to install it in my Corolla so I can't officially vouch for it.



I ordered the Metra 40-LX11 for the AM/FM radio antenna (I have yet to actually install it so I can't vouch for it 100% but it should be fine). I did do some research after someone else mentioned this in the previous thread and despite the strange image on the Amazon page it does indeed have the radio connector and the blue power wire which is required for it to function.



For auxiliary input, you do get the aux connection as RCAs, but you may need to invest in a female RCA to male 3.5mm adapter depending on what your radio expects for the aux connection. Most likely, you will need the adapter. Don't bother with the one that has red white AND yellow because it's only wired for red and white (audio). Something like this should work fine.



Last but not least, you'll need a dash kit. I'm not certain which one you'll need on the 2015, but don't buy the Metra ones. Hot. Garbage. Just go to https://www.crutchfield.com/ and put in your model/year/etc.



As some general advice, I recommend getting some TESA tape and wrapping all your connections. Please for the love of Cthulhu do not wrap your wires in electrical tape if you value your sanity. TESA tape is fabric tape and is absolutely delightful to use, plus it looks good. Also, invest in plastic panel pry tools so you don't ruin your dash trying to get the radio out. You will likely need a 10mm socket to remove the factory radio.



I hope this is probably more than enough information to get you on the right track. Feel free to PM me if you have questions!



(edited because mobile formatting)

I'm rewriting my reply here to better fit your budget. Here are two possible configurations I would recommend from Ascend + Rythmik. I recommend these brands because I've gone through many speaker and subwoofer brands costing twice as much as these, which sound only half as good as Ascend and Rythmik.

2.1 Music Optimized System (but also great for home theater) - $2980:

• Ascend Sierra 2-EX Speakers Pair: $1500
  
• Generic Speaker Stand Pair: $50 - $100
  
• Rythmik F12 Subwoofer: $1000
  
• Denon AVR-S650H Receiver: $350
  
• Fancy speaker wires: $30
  
  This music-optimized configuration will give you an incredible music experience, very near the pinnacle of what is even possible: This will get you 80-90% of the way to the music sound quality of a configurations costing 10x as much.
  
  It will also be excellent for home theater, and without question will put any sound bar (at any price) to shame. The only reason the alternate configuration below is better for home theater is: it will go louder (you can play at 'reference' levels, matching the SPL of a real movie theater), and it does surround sound.
  
  Note that I personally have the above configuration (minus this particular Denon model), and can attest that it is absolutely incredible. It sounds 80-90% as good as a system with Ascend's flagship tower speakers (which I also have) for half the price.
  
  7.1 Home Theater Optimized System (but also great for music) - $2986:
  
  
• Ascend CMT-340SE Speakers Pair: $500
  
• [Optional:] Ascend TP-24 Stand Pair (designed for CMT-340): $180
  
• Ascend CMT-340SE Center Speaker: $300
  
• Ascend HTM-200SE Speakers (Two Pairs): $600
  
• Rythmik FVX15 Subwoofer: $1100
  
• Denon AVR-S750H Receiver: $450
  
• 100ft spool of 14 gauge speaker wire: $36
  
  This 7.1 surround configuration is optimized for home theater, but will still sound very satisfying for music in both stereo and surround modes. It should be able to reach "reference level" SPL (very loud) for movies in a medium room, and cover the entire audible frequency spectrum.
  
  There are many people who just have a stereo pair of CMT-240SE + a subwoofer, and rave about how much better they sound than speakers twice their cost.
  
  I would recommend going with the TP-24 stands to properly elevate the front LR speakers, since they were specifically designed for the CMT-340 mini-tower speakers (they look quite nice together), but it does bring the order over-budget to $3166. If your $3k limit is absolutely firm, I would recommend either (1) improvising your own stands, or (2) going for a 5.1 setup instead to save money (you can later buy more surrounds if you like).

Connections are pretty simple. HDMI from the receiver to the TV and all your HDMI devices are plugged into the receiver instead of the TV. Then you get speaker wire which will be a red and black wire and an subwoofer cable. The Denon x1#00h is a great receiver with the best room correction at it's price point and is highly recommend here. A lot of people recommend getting them at accessories4less refurbished for the cost savings. As for the subwoofer the recommended brands for a high quality subwoofer are SVS, HSU, PSA, Rythmic, or Monoprice's Monolith series which will cost you upwards of $400. The main reason to get one of these over lower end ones is they will play below 20hz which is the point where you will feel it but can't hear it. The svs pb1000 is a good starter one and is the one I got and it's amazing but with svs you do pay extra for their 45 day in home trial and 1 year upgrade program. Then I'd recommend getting bookshelf speakers as they are a better bang for buck and unless you need the extra volume towers produce bookshelves will be plenty, especially if you main focus is movies/tv/video games. With movies the two Speakers that will have the biggest impact are the center and the subwoofer so spending the most on those is where your money is best spent. Speakers unlike the subwoofer can be subjective so you might like a certain speaker but someone else might not so try to go to some audio stores where you can demo products. Also without a center channel if you're not sitting directly between the left and right the voices won't sound like they are coming from in between the speakers which is something a center channel fixes so assuming you can't afford to buy it now (without sacrificing quality of your other speakers) I'd recommend getting that soon after when you have funds. Just make sure you get the matching one to your left and right.

What's your budget?

I see this question asked a lot and I have a very cost-effective solution that I notice a lot of people aren't aware of. I was thinking of doing a video guide of it though there are similar methods/walkthroughs on youtube.

DISCLAIMER: This may not be the best method for your specific setup. My method is not the neatest/simplest of setups, but it is cheap. Also, with this setup, your party members' voices will be recorded/streamed with or without their permission, so you should probably inform your party members before you start recording/streaming.

This is my setup for my Xbox One (should also work with PS4, though you may need different cables because IIRC Xbox One uses a proprietary 3.5mm socket):

Things you'll need:

1x 3.5mm splitter that splits mic and speaker.
This is the one I use (may need a specific one for PS4): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTIOY9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 3.5mm to 3.5mm audio cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x PC-compatible headset and microphone, preferably USB. (I use Astros A50)

STEPS:

1. Plug the 3.5mm splitter into your controller.
   
   
2. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the speaker that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into your microphone input on your PC.
   The speaker audio coming from your controller is all the sounds you would hear if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is routing that sound into your PC's microphone input so your PC reads it as an audio input device.
   
   
3. Plug 1 3.5mm cable into the mic that was split from your controller and plug the other end of that cable into the speaker output on your PC.
   The mic split from your controller is the microphone input that you would normally use to speak to your party if you had a headset plugged into your controller. What we're doing here is making it so that sound coming out of your PC is now being routed to the controller and therefore to the party/game chat.
   
   
4. Plug your PC-compatible headset/mic into your PC.
   
   
5. Right-click the volume icon on your PC and click on Recording Devices.
   
   
6. Right-click the headset mic you plugged in during Step 4 and set it as Default Device and Default Communications Device, then Right-Click it again and click on Properties. Now click the Listen tab. Click the dropdown menu that says "Playback through this device:" and choose the speaker output that goes to your controller (see Step 2). Check the box that says "Listen to this device" and hit OK. Now any audio that is picked up from the mic on your PC headset will get forwarded to your controller.
   
   
7. While still in the Recording tab of your Sound window, right-click the microphone input that came from your controller (see Step 3). Click the Listen tab and under the dropdown menu chose your PC headset as the "Playback through this device:". Check the "Listen to this device" box and hit OK. Now all the sound coming out of your controller (ie party chat) will get forwarded through your PC's mic input and to your headset's speaker. NOTE: You may also have to change the volume of this under the Levels tab.
   
   And that's pretty much it. Phew. You will need to tweak some things based on the PC mic/headset you have.
   
   Things I recommend using with this setup:
   
   Adobe Audition to add filters to your mic for improved audio quality on your mic (you'll need VAC for this).

OK, I will mention that the volume of standard audio and the calling app is stored separately and you may literally have to turn up the volume on the iPhone during the call even though music is fine.

What I think is happening is you are trying to connect an unbalanced device to a balanced jack.

The only 1/4" stereo jack on your interface or mixer is labeled Phones or Headphones. Other than Insert jacks, which I won't cover, all other 1/4" jacks are mono and able to use balanced or unbalanced connections.

RCA and 1/4" TS cables are mono cables. They are also unbalanced cables.

XLR and 1/4" TRS cables are mono and balanced.

Insert cables are special, as are headphone cables. These are 1/4" TRS connections but they are different. They are unbalanced.

OK, unbalanced cables are what you are used to. Nothing special.

Balanced cables are three wire cables. The connector can be XLR or a TRS plug, usually 1/4" TRS. There isn't actually anything special about the cables or connectors per se. The jacks you plug them into are special.

If you take a piece of professional audio gear (your mixer and interface for example) and connect them with a TRS cable, that cable will carry a mono signal. It will also be somewhat immune to radio interference from lights, refrigerators, and compressors kicking in, most anything that would cause interference in a long audio cable.

What happens is the Tip and Sleeve pair carry a standard mono audio signal, just like on a TS cable. The Ring Sleeve pair also carry the same mono audio signal, but this signal is 180 degrees out of phase with the other copy.

What does that mean? Let's say the voltage in the cable is varying up and down between 1 volt and -1 volt. At a given point, say the five-second mark the TS copy of the audio is at 1V. At that exact time, the RS audio is at -1V. Other times the two signals will be at -.2V and .2V and every other value, but always with a different sign except at zero. If you looked on an oscilloscope, the waves made would be mirror images.

Why would anyone do this? Immagine you have an old refrigerator or big AC unit nearby and it kicks on. This can cause interference in the various lines nearby. Usually, it doesn't matter. With audio, it does. You could hear it kick on, or a rumble in the background on all the cables or lots of weird effects, all bad for the audio.

Let's look at that five-second mark, again. An AC unit kicks in and imparts electrical noise of +0.2V to the signal. That makes the TS signal 1.2V. It gets added to the RS signal as well but makes that signal -0.8 V (-1V + 0.2V = -0.8V). Both signals were affected the same.

Here is the magic. The balanced jack that sends the signal sends the TS signal as normal and inverts that signal (makes it 180 degrees out of phase) for the RS signal. The receiving balanced jack reverses this, adds the signals together and divides them by two. SO the interfered with TS signal of 1.2B is added to the inverted RS signal, now 0.8V to get 2.0V which is divided by 2 to get 1V, the original, un-interfered with value.

Balanced cables aren't affected much by interference. Great, right? What's that to you? The only way the jack knows there is a balanced or unbalanced signal is if the cable is TRS, and assumes it's balanced. The jacks just aren't smart.

Now, consumer equipment rarely understands the idea of a balanced cable so if you plug in a TRS cable into the iPhone, it thinks stereo and outputs a stereo signal. The interface sees a TRS plug and assumes mono balanced signal and does weird stuff to the signal. A call is mono, so both copies of the signal are the same. using the 1V at a five-second example, the interface takes the TS 1 V signal, the RS 1 volt signal. Inverts the RS signal to -1V which gets added to the other and you get 0V. Divide that by two if you want but 0V is silence. This happens for all the audio making the call effectively silent. Anything you do hear is because it's an imperfect system or the two outputs are not quite in phase when generated.

If you place a stereo sound, say music with a big stereo separation, you should get really weird distortions. The signals won't be perfectly canceling each other out like the mono signal.

So, what does this mean? Use TS cables on the interface or mixer side. A Y cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C/

or a cable like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-310-inch-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3I/

or maybe this

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D/

Any questions? Sound like what you have experienced?

!

> seating for 8 persons

That means you have seating off to the side, likely diagonally, correct? What this means is that you should get bipole/dipole/radiators for your side-surrounds, and place them centered between each "row of seating" (if it's additional couches instead of seats, put them centered based on distance from furthest seating to closest seating), a pic/drawing of the room would help. Good ones that'll fit in your budget are these bipoles ($120) or its bigger brothers, this one ($150) or this one ($200, I have these, got them $100 on sale from Walmart, currently normal priced).

> I preferred the quality of Klipsch

As for your front 3 speakers, two options I have would be Klipsch, or the same company as those bipoles. For Klipsch, there are these bookshelves + matching center ($340); for Fluance, they don't have a matching center for their SX Series, so you can mix and match, or not get their SX Series, their most expensive series (Signature) bookshelves + center would be $350, so similar price to the Klipsch's, their 2^nd highest model line bookshelves + center would be $270.

For your back-surrounds, are you wall-mounting? If your are, you will want front-ported speakers. Ones that I can recommend are these Sound Appeals ($70), or actually Fluance's top 2 model lines, you can get the Signature Series ($200) or their XL7 Series ($150). You don't want dipole/dipole/radiators for back-rears, as the sound dispersion wouldn't be good (null zones or amplified zones)

Now, that brings us to the subwoofer. If you were talking like 3-4, maybe 5 people, you could just get 1 sub, however, since you are talking 8 people, you definitely want 2 subs. The reason for that is a subwoofer has sweet spots, and an 8-person seating area is definitely too large. With the speakers I recommended, if you went on the most expensive of my recommendations, that would leave us with ~$750 to play with. I would recommend two of these ($660 total) or two of these ($740 $865 total, too expensive).

Now, I'm guessing you'll also need speaker wire. I'd recommend getting at least 16 gauge (lower the # the better), and if you are going in-wall, get oxygen-free. Speaker wire is cheap, here is 100ft of 14 gauge oxygen-free speaker wire. Now, I'd also suggest getting open-screw banana plugs (likely wont fit on any speakers you are wall-mounting), just to save on some frustration with connecting the speaker wire to the speakers/receiver, I bought 2 orders of these ($16 total), they connect like this. You will also want 2 subwoofer cables (RCA's with better insulation), I bought 1 order AmazonBasics in 15ft for $9 ($18 total for you), they also come in 25ft ($20 total, so better safe than sorry). If you don't know how to place a subwoofer, here is /u/zeospantera's tutorial.

For the subs either the SUB1500 or BIC F12 will be great. Whichever you choose is really up to you. The 1500 will have more overhead for larger rooms and open floor plans. When using a receiver, you connect it using a single RCA cable like this.

The Denon is great and I actually brought it up in another thread a day or two ago. Excellent unit for the price, and reasonably future proof.

Speaker wire doesn't really matter. For a short run even the copper clad aluminum stuff like this will be fine. If you want complete peace of mind then this Media Bridge wire is as good as you'd ever need.

For speakers, I'm going to say it's definitely worth it to spend more than the Miccas for a livingroom home theater setup, they would be underwhelming. The Fluance SX6 isn't really a good speaker without significant corrections. So I'd say yes go for the Elac B5 but....for the price range I think that sound signature is too much of a concession for me. The Polk S15 objectively measures better. They can be found used on Amazon and eBay all the time if you want to jump up to the larger S20.

>If your TV has component as well as RCA, you could buy one of these cables that you can plug into both the component and composite inputs (If both these inputs do not share a sound input, you'll need A 2-pack of these splitters to make it work)
>

I have a component cable (one which has red, green and blue YPbPr connectors and the yellow analog video in too) . My new tv doesn't have a component (or composite or scart) in though, so i need an hdmi converter.

Maybe I shouldn't have made a tldr that leaves this out, because i said so above ;)

>Then, depending on if you're playing a PS1 or PS2 game, you can just change the input on your TV accordingly between component and AV. Afaik this is the most elegant solution that allows you to enjoy the clarity of component video in PS2 games.

I don't think think having to use yellow video in for psx games is satisfactory when they were working with composite before. I'll try the upscaler.

>EDIT: If you're just getting into PS1 games on the PS2 you should also know you need a PS1 memory card to save your game.

I'm not just getting into them. I've played them on my ps2 for 18 years. :) Most of the time through composite (YPbPr), which my old tv supported (and all psx games worked like that).


>PS2 memory cards inexplicably do not get recognized by the game.

They have a different data format so (though you could argue they could have made so you can put a 128KB psx save file onto a ps2 memory card).

But thanks anyway

Sure did! works great, very east to use. Been switching the stack between the PS4 optical and the micro usb connector (need a longer cable) on my MacBook pro. Noticeable difference when I'm just using the aux on my mac.

Also @jayfurious

> I remember having to do this setting everytime I unplugged and replugged in the splitter from the dualshock. But I don't have a PS4 anymore, so not sure if the annoyance is still there or they fixed it.

It's still there tolerable though.

Previous setup I was using the Steel Series Arctis 7 for well over a year. At first I was unimpressed following the common theme from a-lot of HD650/HD6XX reviews. Been using them alot recently and now I really can tell the difference in sound signature now. Will try the Arctis 7s in a week or so here to see how much of a difference I notice. I use them for (order from most to least) gaming where I'm still getting used to the soundstage for FPS (ambient/soundtracks in single player game , movies/TV which gave me a-lot more appreciation for them, hearing every detail, and last but certainly not least music; where I find these shine the most IMO LOOOOVED my first listen to Yes - Roundabout. Huge difference when going through that stack rather than my Macbooks aux.

I also have to highly commend Roppmaster's RCA cable recommendation

>RCA cables: https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Foot-RCA-Cable-Pair/dp/B01ALMYOHQ/.

The extension cables were a must for me and a great purchase.

These work so much better than the Monoprice RCA's I originally opted for they were so inflexible they were actually lifting the backside of my Modi 3 into the air. These RCA's are the perfect flexibility for the stack setup. Will post a pic soon.

Hard to know where to start!

Home theater receivers contain an amplifier as well as a bunch of inputs and usually some video switching stuff. Smaller amps like the Q5 Pro are similar but don't have the video functionality or bass management. They are for use with passive speakers and active (a.k.a. "powered") subwoofers.

The Edifiers are active speakers. In other words they have their own internal amplifier(s). You can't (easily) use them with the home theater receiver, or with something like the Q5 Pro.

Active speakers are cool because they're plug-and-play, and those Edifiers apparently sound pretty nice. The downside to active speakers is that you can't easily expand them. You can't setup a surround sound system, and unless they include a subwoofer output (the Edifiers don't, unless I'm mistaken) you can't easily add a subwoofer.

> What cables (yeah... I'm still afraid of the cables for no particular reason) would I need to complete this setup?

For the Edifiers+subwoofer?

It's not going to be entirely straightforward.

First you'll need some sort of RCA or headphone splitter at your source so that the subwoofer and the Edifiers are getting the same signal.

Except now there's a problem. When you turn the volume knob on the Edifiers, the subwoofer volume won't go up and down in unison with it. So you'll have to control volume at the source... on your TV, or your laptop, or whatever your source is.

> Would the home theater receiver still be beneficial in the short term?

Not with the Edifiers.

> What cables (yeah... I'm still afraid of the cables for no particular reason) would I need to complete this setup? At this point, I wouldn't mind buying the home theater you linked if it would be a better overall choice over the SMSL Q5 Pro/AD18.

For the home theater + Polk + subwoofer setup, you'd just need some speaker wire to connect the Polks. You can buy it by the spool or just pick up one of these for each of the Polks. Buying it by the spool is a lot cheaper if you have lots of speakers, or if you have long cable runs, but that's not an issue in your case so I'd probably go with the latter choice for convenience's sake.

You'd also need a cable to get audio from your source (is it a PC?) to the receiver. Digital (optical or coaxial) is best. Or you can just route everything over HDMI..... Computer----(HDMI)-->Receiver--->(HDMI)-->Monitor.

I have that particular turntable, though mine is hooked up to a much smaller set of speakers. To put it in the simplest terms possible, you're going to need an amp and some speaker wire. Connect the turntable to the RCA input on the amp, then run speaker wire from the outs on the amp to the corresponding ins on the speakers themselves. That's it.

It looks like those Sonys can handle up to 60 watts @ 8 ohms, so they seem pretty efficient. You shouldn't need a ton of power to get them a little loud while still sounding good. As far as hardware recommendations go, I've been very happy with my little SMSL SA50. It should get you a nice, clean sound for less than $70 shipped. I went with these Mediabridge 16 gauge pre-finished cables, but you can always just cut your own and screw the bare ends down/clip them in if you're looking to save a few bucks or if your speakers lack binding posts.

There are also loads of vintage stereo amp options out there for less than $100 if you're willing to dig a bit and are comfortable with something that might have a few miles on it. I recommended the SMSL because it's compact, solid, and new in the box. Either way, enjoy your turntable and those Sonys you saved from the scrap heap!

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

What you are looking for is a 2.1 system. Amp or receiver with 2 speakers plus a subwoofer. 3.1 for better movie and TV dialog.

Also, Why you shouldn't buy a soundbar, with actual justification.

If your TV has variable volume 3.5mm headphone or RCA out, you could start with a basic $200 2.1 system, $50 6-1/2" 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker Pair and Hi-Fi Mini Amplifier Bundle with Dayton Audio SUB-1200 $149 or smaller Dayton Audio SUB-1000 $119.

It would be better to start with a used 2.0 AV receiver system. Start with a used AV receiver and a pair of used bookshelf speakers. Then save up while you look for a deal on a used subwoofer.

Or a mix of new/refurb and used if you can't find anything used.

Or save up for a refurbished AV Receiver if you can't find one used, has 4K HDMI switching: PIONEER VSX-532 5.1-ch x 80 Watts Bluetooth $379.99 $169.99

Speakers:

• Lowest budget Dayton Audio B652-AIR 6-1/2" 2-Way with AMT Tweeter $50.
  
• 4" Pioneer SP-BS22-LR $99. Matching center to buy later Pioneer SP-C22 $99.
  
• Well over budget but a great value, 5.25" Infinity Reference 152 $139 or larger 6.5" Infinity Reference 162 $175. Either with matching center to buy later Infinity Reference RC252 $179.
  
  Save up for a subwoofer if you can't find one used:
  
  
• Dayton Audio SUB-1200 $149.
  
  Speaker wire: AmazonBasics 14-Gauge (50 feet) or similar, then 4 Ways to Strip Wire - wikiHow.
  
  Speaker Stands: Low budget Dayton Audio SSMB24 or Monoprice Glass.
  
  Home Theater Guides, even for just a 2.1 or 3.1 system: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • Speaker Placement for Home Theater • TV vertically centered at eye level while seated • r/hometheater
  
  Home Audio Guides for 2.1: Intro to home stereo systems • What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice • Introduction to Audio Components • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides
  
  Main Speaker Positioning: How to position your speakers for great sound and Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.

There is a guy named James Randi who had a contest that will pay US $l,000,000 to any person who demonstrates any psychic, supernatural, or paranormal ability under satisfactory observation. Saying basically if you can prove that your "hi-end" cable "sounds" better that a cheepo then he'll give you a million bucks. It was obviously never won and ended in a lawsuit but still interesting.

I have dozens of cables and an empty wallet. The only difference i've ever heard was in an RCA shoot-out between Belden 1694a coax cable (75ohm), Kable Direct, and this QVS cable I got from Microcenter. The Belden sounded good and had a very dark tone. I ended up using them in my home theater for the long runs through the floorboards. The other two sounded similar but I found the QVS to be a bit more revealing. But in all fairness I think I liked them better because I spent more for the pair. I still use both everyday.

It's easy to get caught up in the hype of hi-fi audio. Save your money.

The LS305 are nice speakers, I think they hit well above most of the 5 inch budget studio monitors out there, but that is just my opinion. Studio monitors are great for computers becasue they are designed for nearfield listening. Most studio monitors have XLR inputs, it's kind of standard. The JBL LS305 can be connected via XLR or TRS. which are just as good as RCA cables. You really need to decide wether you want an external DAC or to run off your computers Audio. The cheapest DAC route I would consider is the Behringer UCA202 At $30.00. It takes the music signal from the computer via USB cable to the DAC and provides RCA outputs. You can spend a lot more on a DAC but this will work. I bought one for my girlfriends laptop and it works well. This really comes down to your budget for the DAC. Most of them will be able to connect to your speakers and some may require an adapter cable. The Benchmark DAC1 I use has balanced outputs and RCA outputs. I have tried them both with the JBL's and can not really hear a difference.

If you have a source with rca outputs something like this cable will work to connect the JBL's.
RCA Cable to TRS

If you want to output from your computer something like this should work.
Mini jack to TRS

Seems like your MB is the most likely culprit as you already pointed out. I first thought it's a problem because you are double amping the signal, but you said you tried to same setup with your friends MB and you heard no static. Easiest test would be maybe borrowing your friends DAC for a day and seeing if that resolves the issue. If it does you can go ahead and buy one for yourself. The Modi 2 Uber is a great piece of equipment and will do the job. Your MB has optical out so i'd say you use that to connect your PC with the DAC and a normal RCA to RCA cable like this cheaper one will also do.

I'd guess that it's not possible unless you have the music stored on your phone (not streamed). Most cars (at least from my experience) that don't have "cutting edge-ish" technology like Android Auto/Apple CarPlay don't see it as a phone, they see it as a media device to look for music on. Thus, they won't stream music playback, they will look for the files and try to play music from them. That's what it sounds like is happening with your old iPhone too.

The best shot as far as playing media that exists on device storage is looking for an option that might appear when you're charging the phone that says what it connected to your car as. It sounds like your phone might be connecting for charging only, i.e. no data connection. If you tap that notification or go into the developer settings (tap build number 7 times or so in about phone in settings), you might be able to change it to something to make your car actually recognize files on your phone.

Bluetooth is a different story, because your car treats it like an audio input like auxiliary input. Speaking of which...

Does your car have an auxiliary input (might be labeled as "aux" or "aux in")? If so, you can get a 3.5mm auxiliary cable like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK and just plug it in like that. If your only concern is audio quality, the cable should fix that. Just plug one end into your car, and the other into your phone's headphone jack.

Not sure where your aux jack would be, it might be inside the armrest (mine is in my '19 WRX). If not it might be next to your 12V DC out (cigarette lighter port), wherever that is, or next to your USB port.

Also, I'll add that using the aux jack is probably your best bet here, and will give you the same audio quality as if you were to plug headphones into your phone (at least, as close as your car's audio system can come to a pair of headphones, at which point it's the car, not the connection). Also those cables are super cheap.

If you somehow don't have an auxiliary port, there exists a weird gadget that plugs into your cigarette lighter port and has an auxiliary cable at the other end. You turn on your car radio and set the thing to the station you're on, and it'll play music through that. It's odd, but it does work (as long as you have a good station to use it with). Like this one, although that specific example is out of stock.

You are talkin' to Mr. Cheap-o his-self... I don't have any expendable moolah, so I try to keep everything as lo-bux as possible!

What I use is Audacity, a free audio editing program that's fairly easy to figure out. With it you can record as many tracks as you want (one at a time) and clean them up, add effects, pan 'em left-n-right... then with the equally-easy-to-install LAME MP3 Encoder you convert your work to MP3 format.

If you have Movie Maker or something similar on your PC you can align the video with the MP3, save it as a WMV and go from there.

I have a cord that is 1/4" on one end, and the other end fits the "mic" input on the side of my 'puter. I can record directly to Audacity that way, or I can hook up a microphone in front of a cab. I even have an old "Guitar Hero" USB mic that works in certain situations. (Two bucks at GoodWill!)

Hope this helps!

Thank y'all for the replies! I took your advice and went to an audio store. Ended up picking up a pair of Q Acoustics 2010i's and an Onkyo TX-8020 ( originally wanted to go with the yamaha suggested in the comments, but the man advised me to go for this one instead. Cheaper and has digital input so I get better quality out of it. ). As for the wires, I went with Amazon's basics for the digital cable and for the speaker wires I went with silverbacks ( hope these are aright ).

Cables :
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00NH11H38/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B009RT2IAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you all for the suggestions, I appreciate it so much. The fact that y'all take the time out of your day to help me out is heartwarming <3

> Sennheiser HD 280s

Ow, those are indeed not bad at all. But the X1's will very likely surprise you. I mean, I currently on the HD 598s, which are very neutral / balanced headphones, designed for instrumental, classical, vocal music. Despite that, even with these headphones and a pretty budget sound card (don't buy a sound card!) they do sound pretty good when listening to electronic music, but they lack in the bass department, I mean.. it's obviously there, but it isn't very punchy.

The X1's don't even need to get an external DAC/AMP. I mean, they don't technically need an AMP at all, so you could consider to simply use the on-board audio for a start and see how you like the sound.
Note the X1's do need about a week of burn-in. This means that they will start to sound a bit better after a decent amount of usage.
Also I just read that the stock cable isn't that great, since it's a pretty high impedance cable. Which does affect the bass.
Cheap solution to fix this right away.

I also just read that you don't want to have a big head. If you do, they might be a bit tight / clamping.

---

Source
This is a big list, but you can simply hit "ctrl + f" and search for X1 to get a nice detailed review for these headphones in terms of build quality, comfort, design issues, sound stage & amping.

I actually had this problem the other day! As you may know, the menus of most ps1 games are at 480p, but the game itself is at 240p, a resolution so unusual most TV's just ignore it. Over composite (also referred to as AV, RCA, and a million other names), it doesn't really care though.

If your TV has component as well as RCA, you could buy one of these cables that you can plug into both the component and composite inputs (If both these inputs do not share a sound input, you'll need A 2-pack of these splitters to make it work)

Then, depending on if you're playing a PS1 or PS2 game, you can just change the input on your TV accordingly between component and AV. Afaik this is the most elegant solution that allows you to enjoy the clarity of component video in PS2 games.

EDIT: If you're just getting into PS1 games on the PS2 you should also know you need a PS1 memory card to save your game. PS2 memory cards inexplicably do not get recognized by the game.

I love Amazon but those cheap $2 ones didn't last long for me.

I've bought a Monster one (because I was feeling extra risky and felt like throwing my money away) that didn't last for 6 months.

I bought this: http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406677494&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=medialink+aux

and it's still running strong for over a year.

Good luck!

I have the 1204USB which is slightly different than your mixer, but I am pretty sure you were on the right track with the "FX send" port -- on my mixer it's the "AUX send", and it's what I use.

You need to pick up a Mono 1/4 ->3.5mm cable like this one. This will take the mono signal from the "FX send" and put it into a stereo signal (Which will just be the mono signal in both ears, but that's fine for a microphone). Then you'll create a mix minus by putting all the red "FX" channel knobs to -infinity except for your microphone's channel, which should be at "".

Hopefully that works for you!

Upgrading the Modi wouldn't, but upgrading the Magni would - the Magni 2 Uber has a pre-amp output.
Essentially this just passes the input from your Modi through the Magni's volume control without amplifying it, when there's no headphones connected. With headphones connected of course, the input is amplified and sent to them. Again, the pre-out is RCA so the same cables as above if you chose that. Bear in mind this only works with either speakers or headphones at once, if you want to output to both at once you'd want a simple RCA splitter.

Again, neither is necessary since the Windows volume control is an option, but it's much easier.

RE speaker stands: Mostly comes down to preference and their looks. These are inexpensive and should fit / be strong enough for the LSR308.

Component order should look like this:

Computer -> Modi -> Sys -> Speakers OR Magni
Optional Second Source ^

If you're regularly swapping between the two, you could connect both at once using a splitter or switch box. Otherwise, those cables look good.

all of your gear is powered?

Ok, then you're going to need 2 RCA male to male cables (example: http://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-feet-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00DI89I04/ref=lp_597546_1_9?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1453783555&sr=1-9) to run from each independent CDJ to the mixer.

Options:

1. Play directly off of USB drives. You won't have the ability to see waveforms but you're going to get very good at matching up tracks for mixing once you get the hang of it.
   
   
2. If you want to connect it to your macbook your best bet is to run DVS on it. To do that you're going to need a Rane SL2 box to run DVS. What this will do is help bridge between the CDJ and your computer through Serato.

Hmm so RCA phono in and 3.5mm jack out.. The speakers are amped and have a volume control. So you need a phono stage cause all turntables need them to get your analog audio to line level. I assume you're trying to save money so we won't get serious. This Pyle should do the job

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Phono-Turntable-Preamp-Preamplifier/dp/B004HJ1TTQ

From the pyle you'll want an RCA Male to 3.5mm Female cable. This should do it.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Premium-Stereo-Female-Plated/dp/B003L14XTO

EDIT: OH looks like the Logitech speakers have an RCA input! So you don't need a converter. So this monoprice rca between the phono pre and the Logitech should work. Let me know if I'm wrong, cause if it doesn't have RCA input then you'll be going back to RCA to 3.5mm converter.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K

If you need the RCA interconnect between the turntable and preamp.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CRA-202DJ-Ground-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000PO1H80

Personally I'd get a good integrated like a yamaha, that's more in the direction of best way and hook it up to some nice floorstander towers or bookshelf speakers like Klipsch, Elac, and so on.

>Very helpful, thanks.

Good I'm glad. You're welcome.

>So optimal would be this into the sub and this into the receiver, correct?

Not really optimal but more so optional. It uses 6dB of headroom you might not need to use if the sub's auto on feature is sensitive enough so it's not a must have. If you just want to use one though I'd get a different splitter. My old Mediabridge cables had connectors that went on like the jaws of a pit bull and I almost pulled my AV receiver off it's rack trying to take them off. I'd try Monoprice or better yet Kabeldirekt on Amazon for the splitter. Also remember it's not going to make the sub louder at all.

1, 2, 3, and 4 - http://pcpartpicker.com/product/Gj6BD3/corsair-speakers-casp211na

They are worse than a set of studio monitors and a dedicated subwoofer, but if you don't want to put in the 2 minutes of effort they still sound good.

As for number 5 on your list, THX certification is pretty much pointless. Speakers can either cover a certain frequency and keep a fairly flat response or not.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVEIY4E

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x2

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Premium-Smartphones-Tablets-Theater/dp/B00B2HP1MW

If you reconsider the DIY method, you can purchase that stuff along with 2 standard RCA cables and be done in minutes.

I got the Micca's along the Q5. I used Mediabridge cables to connect the speakers. It's more expensive than regular speaker wire but the quality it's great.
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-12AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B01CYGMD4I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503073084&sr=8-4&keywords=mediabridge+speaker+wire
As stands I use a pair of old books and that works great for me ($1 usd solution hahaha)

Banana plugs make things easier if you add/remove speakers often. They make life easier for me since I switch speakers often but are certainly not necessary. Bare wire will work just as well.

You can get something as simple as this 14ga 50' spool for $10.

If you really want pre-made cables with banana plugs, these Mediabridge cables are great for $10/each.

Meh... Both 70 and 50 bucks as suggested in comments is a lot.

Buy something like this, connect the classical (not HDMI one) cord to PS3, connect audio cinches with that converter and plug any headphones without microphone you can find (I use ones that cost like 10 bucks). You need to select audio output to the regular cable, not HDMI, in the PS3 menu but that's a piece of cake ;).

I'm really surprised at how terrible advice you guyz are giving him. I mean, 40-50 bucks just to use headphones on PS3? It's ok if he wants to invest 40-50 bucks but if he wants it to be as cheap as possible, this is a very easy solution.

Edit: Now, you will need both RCA (cinches) females and headphone jack female. I can't find this option on amazon at the moment but you can do with female cinches and male jack as long as you buy female-female jack connector.

Hey cool, should be pretty easy to set up.

On the back of your receiver is an input probably marked "phono"; you connect your turntable to that using an RCA cable. Those are easy to find in different lengths / prices. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40465-Value-Audio/dp/B0019MCI94/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510243440&sr=1-4&keywords=rca+audio+cable

Speakers connect to your stereo using speaker wire. No need to buy the $200 variety! There are various types of connectors on the back of receivers. Very common is a post that is something like a screw, with a black cap on it that turns. Your goal is to wrap the stripped end of the speaker wire around the metal post (metal wire needs to connect metal post), and clamp it down using the black cap. (If this makes sense....)

Speaker wire is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510243561&sr=1-7&keywords=speaker+wire

No problem. Actually now I've looked at the manual for your sub, I think I have a handle on what you need to do.

Here's a copy of the sub's manual. As you can see from the diagram, the single socket on the back of there is an output, not an input. You need to plug your Bose speakers into that with the standard lead, no adaptors needed.

To get the signal from the Scarlett to the subwoofer is a little trickier. You'll need a "2 x mono RCA to 3.5mm stereo socket" adapter. Here's one on Amazon - they may have one at Best Buy, but I couldn't find one with a quick search.

You plug the two RCA plugs from that adaptor into unbalanced outputs 1 + 2 on the back of the Scarlett. Then you take the lead from the sub (the one coming out of the little doohickey with the power switch and volume knob on it, which is attached to the sub - you can see it in the diagram in the manual) and plug it into the 3.5mm jack socket on the adapter.

I'm pretty sure that'll do the trick. Good luck!

> So there really isn't a term for something like a bookshelf speaker that has an amp?

"Powered studio monitor" should get you pretty far, and the JBL LSR305 is a great one for the money. I had just assumed it was too large and ugly for your needs - I was under the impression you were still looking for something like this.

EDIT - to ensure you get both audio channels, you'll need some sort of mono converter, something like this

Well, first things first. Your speakers can already take RCA inputs, so you should just be able to plug in the record player (if it has a preamp built in), your CD player, or your iPod into the RCA input. If you don't want to plug and unplug the RCA every time, get something like this, which also lets you do centralized volume control.

Get a sub like this, and hook up an RCA splitter like this or this so that your source (whether it's the SYS above or something else) is running into both the subwoofer and the speakers.

Note: you don't want to wire it so that the subwoofer and the source are running into the speakers. That means your subwoofer won't be doing anything. The "one" end goes to your source, the "two" end goes to subwoofer and speakers.

Those speakers are fine, and it's almost always better to have one good setup than two mediocre setups.

Final proposed setup: your sources --> Schiit SYS ($50) --> splitter ($10)--> PSW10 ($100) + Resolv A5.

I'm renting and I just recently upgraded to banana plugs. They are great! Mediabridge and Amazon are great resources for this. This is what I use, great quality and price.

Mediabridge Banana Plugs - 12 pair (used in conjunction with surround speaker wire, below)

Mediabridge 12AWG 6FT Speaker Cable with Banana plugs (Front LCR)

Mediabridge 14AWG 100ft speaker wire (surrounds)

Mediabridge 6ft subwoofer RCA cable

No, this old video card will use the regular PCI on your motherboard. The description says your motherboard has the appropriate slot. This PCI video card has a yellow RCA video out. Just combine it with one of these 3.5mm to RCA audio converters and you're got all three. That video card doesn't work with Windows 7, by the way. Windows XP 32-bit would be best. You can get Linux to work with it, but it's extra work. Nice retro feel.

Are you sure you don't want to buy a new LCD TV with HDMI? I guess CRTs are better for viewing older non-widescreen TV shows.

Amplifier

PA horn

CB to Amp cable (standard 3.5mm aux cable)

You’ll need speaker wire to run from the Amp to the PA and you’ll need to power the amp somehow. They sell an AC to DC power supply but if installing in a 12VDC vehicle you can run 12v to it directly but you’ll just need the barrel connector / plug end. You can buy those on amazon as well or if you have access to electronic scraps or spare laptop power supplies you can hack one off there and wire it to your system.

To use the speaker without the amplifier, not sure how loud it would be, probably not very because the CB can only put out like 12-15 Watts on PA, you can use this cable to hook the speaker to the CB

Hope that helps.

both speakers are good and you'll be happy whichever pair you get. that being said, the Diamonds have better bass, so it's up to you if you're willing to sacrifice size for more bass

in addition, you'll need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable and some speaker wire. buy the cheapest option, wires are wires and don't matter that much


unless you have a $5000 end-game setup, maybe then it's worth it to get nicer cables

idk about the PYST cable. how long is it? I bought this for my setup and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/

And yes the valhalla 2 is a great pair with the 650

edit: oh and I just looked. At 6 inches I don't think the Schiit PYST cable would reach. I can take a pic of my setup when I get home so you can see what the spacing is like if you want.

[Budget: Below 1k.]

Hello, everyone! I never really thought I would ever get into vinyl at all, but after acquiring a few choice albums I really enjoy listening to, I figured I would start the journey! I've been doing some research, and I was wondering how these pieces work out for starting out (Wanted to remain under $1k for the entire thing.).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GA9COMM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (Audio Technica AT-LP120)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008NCD2S4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (Pioneer SP-FS52 Speakers)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EE18O7W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (Onkyo TX-8020 Stereo Receiver)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009RT2IAK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER (And some Banana Plugs to connect it all, of course.)

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

Yes this is possible, you will need a headphone/microphone & headphone splitter as well as an aux cord. Here are links to both. I'm sure this can be done with a different splitter, but this is what I use and it works great! If you are looking for a cheaper one, make sure it is headphone/microphone & headphone splitter, because regular ones will not do the job.

http://www.amazon.com/Extrasensory-Devices-ESDHW010-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B006T637G8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

http://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK?ie=UTF8&keywords=aux%20cord&qid=1465280604&ref_=sr_1_4&s=electronics&sr=1-4

Hi all,

I'm looking for some cartridge assistance/general information on a first TT I am purchasing as an x-mas gift for my girlfriend (she's rad).

I've read all the links and guides and have finally settled on two choices for a new TT: the Fluance RT83

or the Denon DP-300F

The Denon DP-300F is on sale for black Friday currently so I am leaning towards it. That being said, I would like to replace the cartridge on it with a Ortofon 2M Red. How difficult would it be for someone completely new to TT's like myself to replace the cartridge? Would I be better off purchasing it already upgraded from another source and just pay the difference for the work and peace of mind that it is done correctly: https://www.turntablelab.com/products/denon-dp-300f-turntable-ortofon-2m-red-upgrade

Also, as a side note, I am looking at pairing both with an active speaker (I'll upgrade and do things the right way as I get more funds--ugh!). And if I go with RT83 I'll pick up a Schiit Mani pre-amp as well. To hook everything up, all I'll need is two pairs of RCA cables for connecting the TT to the pre-amp and then another pair to connect pre-amp to speakers correct? I would hate to get everything all packaged together for x-mas and then figure out I didn't even get the right cables to hook this bad boy up.

Cheers

Depends on what your budget is. I'd suggest, within your budget, a Modi Multibit + Magni Uber and you'll have yourself equipment that can power future headphones. If not, you can't go wrong with a Modi 2 + Magni 2 Uber and it's one of the best bang for your buck stack. It'll be a nice improvement over your motherboard's sound card which can carry noise from your video card/power supply/fans.

You'll have to purchase a USB A to B cable as well as as an RCA male to male cable.

USB A to B I purchased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11KIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCA Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L1717K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can also purchase the 6" PYST cable from Schiit for $20. -_-

I just got this and this and run the phone without turning it's screen off. Gets the job done perfectly, also got a free GPS app that works great (Waze).

That cable looks pretty plasticy. I had a pretty bulky and plasticy cable like that hooked up the SHP9500 and it was uncomfortable when hitting my shoulder. It also passed a bunch of vibrations to the headphones which wasn't pleasant.

Most will recommend VMODA: https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-Extended-Audio-Cable-Black/dp/B00MYTR7KQ/

I have the aux cord from ANKER and it's pretty decent. Should come in a longer length as well: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones/dp/B00R124LAK/

I'll also point you to the aux cord from status audio: https://www.amazon.com/Status-Audio-Headphone-Universal-one-button/dp/B01F2NT3TS/

Hi,
I have Edifier R1280T speakers which have 2 sets of RCA Inputs.

I have 3 sources of audio: a turntable, a chromecast audio, and a Roland Quad-Capture.

I'm wondering how I can connect all three sources to the two inputs (2 white, 2 red) on my speakers. I tried RCA Male to Dual RCA Female but the sound was very quiet.

Would RCA piggyback cable work or would I just have the same issue?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Wow, you are a library of knowledge, thank you very much for helping me out. I just found the JVC at a yard sale for 5$ and couldn't pass it up especially since I was looking for an amp that had a phono input.

Some more follow up questions:

> Yes. An RCA splitter like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y/

So I would need to get four of the RCA-to-Dual RCAF, two for the line out on the Yamaha (left and right) and two for the Tape-1 Rec on the JVC, correct?



>On your JVC, when you select Phono as your input, and TAPE MONITOR enabled, the RIAA-equalized and volume controlled signal will get sent to the Tape Out jacks, so you could send that to the Yamaha only (using the JVC essentially as a phono pre-amp), or split the Tape Out and send the signal also back to the JVC for amplification and have the sound come out of both amplifiers and all four speakers at once.

I'm still not 100% sure I completely understand the function of Tape Out (which I assume is the 'Rec' input on Tape-1?) So on the front of the JVC I'm having a little trouble understanding all the buttons. If I select Phono input and press the Tape-1 button and the Tape-1 'Rec' (I assume this is the same as 'out') split so that it goes to both the Yamaha and back into the Tape-1 'Play' (I assume this is the same as 'in') then I will be playing the phono through both amplifiers and both amplifiers will have the same adjustments made to the signal (the one from the phono input), however, they will amplify them differently (depending on the volume level of each amplifier, correct?)

Is the 'TAPE MONITOR' you refer to the same as the Tape-1 button on the front of the JVC?

If I switch on Tape-1 then there will be no output to the speakers without reconnecting the Tape Rec to the Tape Play, correct? This is why some receivers have the bridge you were referring to?

What do the buttons 'SUBSONIC FILTER' and 'SEA REC' do? Also what does the EXT-NR DUBB under the Tape 1 and Tape 2 buttons mean?

I don't expect you to know this one but I'll try anyways, any idea on the difficulty of the repair or the type of bulbs of the light bulbs behind the little wattage meters on the front of the JVC that light up as little blue circles? Both seem to be busted, but I think they look really neat lit up.

Again, thank you for letting me utilize your obvious well-versed brain

Yeah the Insignia cable is very thin. Would this be a better option? Says it is shielded. I'm also wondering if this one would be even better since it has L/R on one end. I'll do an Amazon chat to see what the return policy would be.

Edit: Was told I could return free of charge either or both cables if need be. Guess I'll order both and see how they work.

If it's an iPod you're using, you could consider using Airplay instead - This receiver is a pretty good value proposition. You could then pair these speakers with it. You'll definitely need speaker cable. You'll need to specify what sort of DVD player you've got, as well as what turntable - to then buy cables for connecting them.

Does your laptop or computer have a 3.55mm speaker or microphone input? If so, you could pick up one of these and connect your bass directly to the computer. Then, you can use a program like Audacity to record your playing and play it back with ease. Your mileage will vary, but for practice it's simple and cost effective solution.

One of this would do:

• http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4/ref=sr_1_sc_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1395937607&sr=8-5-spell&keywords=3%2C5%22+y+adapter+chinch * http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PCBL43FT6-Stereo-Y-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G87FLY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395937304&sr=8-3&keywords=3%2C5%22+y+adapter Maybe spend a bit more for some higher quality, but even than it's about $20.
  
  If you want an external interface the 2i2 is a nice one and as you say it has two outputs. There are also some cheaper but decent quality interfaces. Tascam is a good brand to look for as well.

Rca splitters or selectors. Super cheap ones on Amazon, or shell out a bit more for a nicer one.

Like this: Hosa YRA-104 RCA to Dual RCAF Y-Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JOz7xbWBZ5BPZ

Or: Fosmon Technology 3-Way Audio / Video RCA Switch Selector / Splitter Box & AV Patch Cable for Connecting 3 RCA Output Devices to Your TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNCPR92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yPz7xbR6BCQ6B

Nicer: Four Input Source Tabletop Control Switch Box Internal Pc Board Design Metal Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0056EK7Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Qz7xbAK8CJFZ

Done new afraid to get one made for AV, there's no difference. You just won't use the video rca jack.

Yep, you got it. I ended up buying two of these splitter cables to plug into the back of the Modi MB:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will throw caution to the wind, and say it may be possible that there is a degradation to the signal, but personally I can't tell. I do have to compensate by adjusting the volume slightly (and I really do mean slightly) higher on both, versus running each on their own, but it's not a big deal. In practice, I can easily switch between the two amps, or have both play at the exact same time, which was worth it to me. :)

Hi u/InfamousSea - I dug my old Audio Technica Pro 88 receiver (pictured here) out of the closet and saw that it has a mono output, not a TRS stereo. Your problem might be that your Rode SC4 TRS to TRRS adapter is only sending a single channel to the phone.

I used this Cables2Go mono to stereo adapter when I needed to plug the Pro 88 into a TRS stereo input and it worked fine.

If that doesn't solve the problem, you probably need a preamp. I recommend a Saramonic SmartRig II preamp for iPhones plus a 3.5mm mono to 1/4" mono adapter so you can plug your wireless receiver into it.

Hope this helpful and good luck!

yeah, that's about the only thing I'm not a fan of. I have a pair of Audio Technica M50s and the plug-in jack is too wide to fit in the headphone jack, but I don't really use those with my phone too often anyway.

The thing that did cause an issue was trying to use the AUX jack in my car, to listen to my music. I owned 3 male-to-male audio cables and all of them had really wide jacks just like the headphones. I had to buy a specific cable to fit the case properly.

This is the cable I bought from Amazon and it fits perfectly. In case anyone else has a similar problem.

While I agree that an XLR microphone is a better all-around choice to a USB one unless you need a direct connection to your computer, since you've already got the microphones, I would also point out that the mic you're using has a headphone port. It may be worth getting a mixer (most XLR mixers will also support 1/4" jacks, so if you upgrade to an XLR mic in the future you won't need a new mixer) and pick up something like this to patch it through.

You could try if you have a straight male-male 1/8" cable lying around to record it through your computer's line-in or microphone jack to see if the quality is still good first.

oh. yep, male to male RCA and some speaker wire will be needed.

dont get tricked into expensive "fancy" rca's either. for a small distance there wont be much difference.

something like this would be perfect https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=lp_597546_1_8?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1468903801&sr=1-8

edit: same with speaker wire, dont need expensive stuff just get decent 14 gauge or whatever fits your speaker terminals. and i always put some of these on my speaker wire, cause it makes things much easier if you have to unplug anything. https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9ALE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468903981&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+plugs

So for those of you who wanted a parts list and a cost breakdown here it is...some of these costs might be a little rough but I'll get close.

• Parts Express Overnight Sensations Kit---$138.00
  
• Sonic Barrier Sound Dampening Foam---$13.25
  
• SMSL Q5 Amp---$129.99
  
• C8 Power Inlet---$10.16
  
• C7 Power Cord---$4.61
  
• 3.5 mm Cable---$4.99
  
• USB Cable---$8.99 (for 2)
  
• RCA Cables-need two---$9.18
  
• Digital Audio Cable---$1.69
  
• M3 by 30 mm Bolts---$9.65
  
• #6 Wood Screws---$8.37
  
• High Density Foam Tape---$5.60
  
• 24 AWG Red Wire---$9.55
  
• M6 by 40 mm Hex Bolts---$4.66
  
• Threaded Inserts---$4.55
  
• RiteAV Custom Wallplate---$26.33
  
• 1/4 inch Plywood---$5.77
  
  I don't think I missed anything, so that should be about it. I already had the glue, stain, Deft and tools to complete the project which was pretty great. Not to mention free wood so for any of your projects factor those things in. For those of you asking about the crossovers and those component they are included in the Parts Express kit along with detailed instructions. The total came to $395.34 but I had some materials left over for use on future projects so I would actually say its a little less. Additionally, I found the SMSL Q5 on sale from Parts Express so it came out to only $84.00 so that cut costs a lot I just couldn't find a link with that price, this build happened about a month ago.

Okay. So if I understand correctly your cable only has one 1/4" connector, right? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 ?

If so, the issue is that you're trying to connect your PC's stereo output (meaning it has two channels, left and right) into a balanced input (a more advanced for of a mono one channel input. Look up balanced signal if you want to learn more). The mixer input is not designed to handle a stereo signal, so it won't process it correctly.

Ideally, you should use a cable that has two 1/4" connectors (one for the left and one for the right) like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000068O3C and plug them into 2 separate channels on your mixer.

I want to start a new setup from scratch, do I have everything I need? This may seem like a very elementary question but I keep learning that I need different cables for this and for that

Turntable (Includes RCA cable)

Amplifier (Built in phono pre- I don't still need a preamp, do I?)

Speakers

Speaker wire (This goes from the speaker to the amplifier? Until yesterday I thought they just used RCA cables. Are banana plugs universal for all speakers?)

RCA Cable into audio jack (For computer- is something better than this that would accomplish the same thing? RCA to usb?)

Nothing on that page would do what you really want.

The things that are labeled "stereo to mono" imply that they are intended to mix a stereo signal into a mono signal. Unless they have some internal resistors (like that home made cable -- which they certainly do not have) then they would simply short the left and right outputs together to connect them to the mono side. And as mentioned it's not really good to short outputs together in general. But even it were OK to short the outputs together it still wouldn't work because the mono side of those adapters will only connect to the tip of a plug. So you'd only get the mono mix in one side of your headphones.

Those "stereo to mono" are really meant to take a mono output and send it two both sides of a stereo input. For example, to send a mono source to both sides of a stereo recorder.

OK (just in case anyone gets any bright ideas), you could connect one of these to the headphone output. Then plug one of these into the first adaptor. Then plug the headphones into the second adapter. That would short (kind of mix) both sides of the output to both sides of the headphones. But don't do that! Because it does short the outputs together and they aren't meant to be shorted together that way. I only mentioned it in case someone saw some potential there and wanted to give ti a go.

What cables are you using to make the connection? The Red/White RCA on the DAC should go to the matching Red/White RCA on the Speaker.

How old and what quality are your current cables, and how long to they have to be to reach?

These are pretty good, and they come in 3ft, 6ft, 10ft, 15ft, 20ft, and 25ft -

https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Analogue-Double-Shielded-Amplifiers-Receivers/dp/B00DI89I04/

Make sure both of the Logitech speakers are plugged in correctly and securely.

First double check that your PC doesn't have a combo jack (3.5mm analog and 3.5mm optical in the same port). a lot of modern PCs (especially macs) have this and if that's the case this is your best bet for audio. This is what you'd want.

​

If you're using HDMI output (especially if you're using a receiver or multiple HDMI inputs), something like this is a good choice.

​

If not, your next best bet is a internal soundcard with optical output (like this one) if it's a desktop, or an external USB soundcard with an optical output if it's a laptop (like this one).

​

If neither of these work, and/or you're on a device that only has a 3.5mm analog output and nothing else, you can use one of these with one of these adapters. It's known as an analog to digital converter (ADC) and will take in analog (RCA/3.5mm) and convert it to a digital format like optical. This isn't super recommended, as it add extra conversion steps to the process and will reduce the sound quality of your soundbar somewhat unless you pay out extra money for a high quality professional ADC.

Good to know, thanks. Would speaker wire like this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411974883&sr=1-2&keywords=speaker+cable+with+banana+plugs

Do they have any speaker wire with banana clips already installed on one side? I connect the other, stripped side to the amp correct? Then I'm also planning on purchasing a RCA to 3.5mm jack cable and connecting it straight into my external DAC since I'll be using that for my headphones anyways.

Looks like you're gonna want to get an RCA cable like this (red and white on both ends). Run that from the record player to the subwoofer, then run that speaker cable from the two speakers to the subwoofer. This only works because your sub is powered.

Check out /r/zeos for more stuff like this if you need more help/diagrams and stuff. Also, look up the subwoofer crawl and speaker placement guides for getting it to sound as good as possible

I use

• a converter
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  Works like a charm when I change the tv input to hdmi.
  
  edit:
  Thanks to nalc, looks like OP could use:
  
  
• Mini DVI to HDMI adaptor
  
  
• an hdmi to hdmi cable (one end into the tv and one end into the converter)
  
  
• and a 3.5mm jack to 3.5mm jack audio cable (one end to the tv, one end to the macbook)
  
  
  Depending on the devices used, the audio may or may not be transferred through HDMI. With my Macbook and tv, I need to hook up the audio cable separately (there is a jack next to the hdmi slot on my tv).
  

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000382-Z313-Speaker-System/dp/B002HWRZ2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504518229&sr=8-1&keywords=z313

https://www.amazon.com/yueton-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Adapter/dp/B0156F38LG/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1504518244&sr=8-12&keywords=3.5+rca+adapter

38$

when my controller is hooked up to desktop i have z623's which have dedicated RCA inputs but are way over your budget

but on my laptop when im lounging around living room i have that exact setup linked above.

or goto a thrift store look for some used PC speakers preferably with a subwoofer and then buy an adapter like i linked, but its always a gamble.

the adapter is not a hassle, in ur price range it's pretty much a requirement.

Yes, just a mini amp - pick up this - (its a clone of the original Tripath Lepai that's not made anymore, and has a great power supply)

• https://www.amazon.com/Kinter-K2020A-ORIGINAL-TA2020-020-Amplifier/dp/B077Z7DBRT
  
  and use the 3.5mm headphone output from your TV to either the RCA inputs or the 3.5mm input.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Cable/dp/B01D5H8JW0/
  
  or
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B004LTEUDO/
  
  BOOM, you're done. It will drive those Polks just fine! I bought one just for fun and had it hooked up to both sets of my Polk floorstanding monitor 70's and monitor 60s and it had no problem!
  
  

Personally I wouldn't use XLR to XLR. It's a balanced input, whereas the RCA input is not, and this means inside the speakers there will be some amount of circuitry between the two inputs, so you would not be simply chaining them together this way. So it could work, but you are off the beaten bath and it very well might not work.

Instead, I would use splitter cables. (Incidentally, what you have now is technically not a splitter. It is a breakout cable because the two connectors on one end are connected to different things on the other end.) There are basically 3 ways you could do this:

• Get RCA male to dual RCA female splitter cables (like this -- you will need two of them) and plug one into the RCA input of each speaker. Then run male RCA to male RCA cables (like these) between speakers.
  
• Similarly, get RCA female to dual RCA male cables (like this -- again, you will need two), and use them with RCA extension cables (like this).
  
• Alternatively, split the cable while it is still 3.5mm (with a cable like this) and then get another 3.5mm to dual RCA breakout cable like you already have.
  
  The first method uses the splitter cable "backwards" but that doesn't really matter, and RCA male-to-male cables are easier to find than extension cables (like the second method). The cables for the last method are available very widely but it might be more or less convenient depending on how you want to place the speakers and route the cables.

Well, you should need a male mono 1/4" to female stereo 1/8" jack adapter to plug into the guitar.

Then you need a male to male 1/8" stereo patch cable to go from that to the computer's 'line in' or single audio jack.

OR, just something like this cable here that's the same thing all in one piece.

Then you need to configure your MacBook's audio port to be an input instead of an output as described here.(if you don't have a dedicated 'line in' jack)

After all that, you should be able to select your macbook's input jack in Logic, and pluck away.

This is a direct line in. Your guitar should be powered. Make sure ALL your guitar's/interface's volume/gain knobs/sliders are set to their minimum before jacking in and playing. The best case scenario if you don't is major distortion in your signal. The worst case is that you could blow out your macbook's audio device. I don't know how the macbooks handle overload. It shouldn't be a problem, but just to be safe, always set your guitar's levels to min first then bring them up during your first tests; play normally.

You may not have to manually change your macbook's audio jack. It is auto-sensing. I included the step just in case. If your macbook only has one audio jack, obviously, you won't be able to listen through external speakers or headphones while your guitar's lined in. It'll have to be through the internal speakers. This iMic is a cheap workaround for only having one audio jack. Google for more 'audio interface' devices.

In a nutshell: plug your guitar into the computer directly, set the software to use that jack, and go!

So, maybe a setup like this, with RCA from the TV:

http://smile.amazon.com/Pyle-PCA1-30-Watt-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0012KZNP4

..then these cables from the amp to the binding posts (I guess we would strip one end for bare wire to insert into the amp):

http://smile.amazon.com/Silverback-Speaker-Sewell-Banana-Strand/dp/B009RT2IAK

As for other plates in the house, there's only cat5 and coax in other rooms. So, I'm not sure what the component ones are for. We have a video system to buzz people in at the front door, but that's the only other thing I know of. Really only concerned with the audio though. :)

Am I getting close? Thanks so much!

I've had great luck with my Mediabridge cable, purchased from Amazon 2-3 years ago. It lives in my car, gets constantly pinched by the lid to my center console, and has never once crapped out. It's got pretty sturdy construction and I honestly don't know how you could destroy this.

You just need one of these. Super simple. And yes, the DAC in a macbook pro tends to be pretty reliable. I wouldn't listen to the people telling you to get a separate box just because.

Yeah, I got a stereo to mono adapter to effectively merge the two channels into one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I got this to hook up to my xbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plug that into the xbox via optical (since primary audio went through HDMI and I couldn't easily split that), then the adapter above to merge channels into mono and then into the buttkicker. Works great for consoles.

Yeah, it would be super easy to run two. If you already have power coming in for one, just extend it over to the second. Also would need to split the RCA cables (red & white, they provide the audio data from the interface/head unit).

Okay... so I just need to repeat these are probably not the best options... #1 is probably the worst option and may or may not work... and I can't guarantee you will get the best sound quality out of either but here ya go:

(1) If you only have a 1/4 or 1/8 out, you can run a cable with two male connectors from the stereo to your computer's mic input. They would either be a 1/4 to 1/8 cable or a 1/8 to 1/8 cable.

(2) For RCA output, you can a RCA to 1/8 cable into the computer mic input or run a regular RCA cord with this RCA to 1/8 adapter.

None of this is ideal, but for under $10 it might be worth giving it a try and messing around with it if you have the time and patience. Hope this helps. If none of this works... sorry...

Depends on what you want.

This is for a PC right? So you're listening close up. That's a factor because the JBL's are designed for that.

JBL's with a $100 Dayton sub will sound great, be balanced, and provide more bass than any pair of bookshelf sized speakers on their own.

I'm guessing they mean because the JBL's are powered (they have amplifiers inside of them) then if you want to upgrade you just have to sell them and buy a new system. If you get an amplifier and speakers then you can upgrade the speakers or the amplifier separately. I'd add that the JBL's probably have more resale than Elac's or something like that if you consider upgrading a factor.


Don't worry about the XLR inputs if you don't need them - use these

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stereo+breakout+cable&qid=1563309739&s=gateway&sr=8-3

They will plug in the little green audio output you can use for headphones.

For the subwoofer - does your PC have an orange 3.5mm audio output? If so hook that up to the subwoofer using these kinds of cables:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-iXCC-Shielded-Gold-Plated-Stereo/dp/B019D048XC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3.5+to+rca&qid=1563309802&s=gateway&sr=8-5

The brands I'm linking don't matter, just the type of cable they are.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-14-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B01D5H8XOY/ref=pd_day0_hl_23_3/137-2294305-1031853?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8XOY&pd_rd_r=91666369-31a2-11e9-aa96-e74d7a705039&pd_rd_w=gdC10&pd_rd_wg=9euOZ&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=35H4KAKSDMGCQ6WZXP3H&psc=1&refRID=35H4KAKSDMGCQ6WZXP3H

​

you wanna have the wire thicker so that it transmits clearly further. There's a graphic on r/zeos but I don't remember the details. Yes that receiver is great. I just suggested Craigslist cause you can get epic deals. I got mine for $30 and is a yamaha. No HDMI though, older model.

You'll need 2 or 3 things to do this cheaply.

Most importantly is an optical S/PDIF DAC, the Fiio D3 is among the cheapest and smallest packages available.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420920775&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+DAC

That unit comes with the optical Toslink cable you'll need. You also need a stereo RCA cable. Length will depend on your setup, but you probably won't need anything long. Monoprice is a good inexpensive cable supplier.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=pd_sim_e_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D43HPKDVJ2NTMMRYPE0

Now some TVs use a mini-toslink jack for Digital Audio out, it'll have the same size connector as a ⅛" headphone connector. The standard toslink is a pentagon shaped connector usually with a shutter to protect it from dust. If you have the ⅛" mini-toslink you'll also need an adapter such as this, if you have standard the included cable with the Fiio will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102671-Toslink-Female-Adapter/dp/B001V5HQAU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420921060&sr=1-2&keywords=mini-toslink

Just need your stamp of approval on this finalised list. I figured get more items and overhaul the whole desk audio setup instead of investing into one single thing.

• Micca MB42x + SA36 Pro2 + Behringer UCA202 + cables ~ Monoprice RCA-RCA + Sewell Banana plug wires (2 of those)
  
  
• SHP 9500 + V-Moda cable
  
  For a grand total of: $304.63 ~= $305
  Good to go?
  

I’ve been working on my display and wiring setup for a while now and I’m finally happy with it so I thought I would share it with r/mini. Any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated. This is one of my first posts so if I messed up, that’s why.

Links:

Ultragauge: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/

Aluminum GPS Mount: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-gps-mounting-kits/

AUX in: http://www.minicarparts.net/Instructions/M3367_Instructions.cfm

Phone/ipod holder: http://amzn.com/B009GMKT0Y

Charging cable: http://amzn.com/B000EFVGV8

gold plated AUX cable: http://amzn.com/B004LTEUDO

Antenna: http://www.cravenspeed.com/products/The-Stubby-Antenna.html

Inverter: http://amzn.com/B004MDXS0U

Lights: I don’t remember exactly, but if someone want the link then I can look more. They were like $25 total.

Yes, I would add a sub next. That's should be a great setup for the price.

As far as connections go, yes, everything into the receiver then HDMI out to the TV. Assuming all source devices have HDMI out that's all there would be to it. Apart from that all you need is some cheap speaker wire or cables. I would go with these if your budget allows, both for simplicity and quality...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I52I2PU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494616110&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=speaker+cable+with+banana+plugs&dpPl=1&dpID=41OPX07mV3L&ref=plSrch

If those are too expensive just get some bulk bare wire.

You could also get an [RCA splitter](Ugreen Gold Plated 3.5mm to 2RCA Audio Auxiliary Stereo Y Splitter Cable (3ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PZ7QO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V-Cqyb156FM6B) (those are super common and come in any length) plus two of [these](Monoprice 107146 3.5mm Mono Plug to RCA Jack Adaptor, Gold Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069MLDUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z.Cqyb8ZMTS9G)!

OP this is technically doing something a little different from what the guy above suggested, but it should work great for your earmuffs, and will be a little more comfy to walk around with than two individual full length cables meeting at your phone.

Yeah not to mention you'd need something like this to convert the left and right audio signal from the RCA to 3.5mm stereo. It's not rocket science really. Surely they would've plugged in a DVD player or xbox or something into a TV at that age. I was doing it at like 7 years old.

https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-TPA3116D2-Channel-Adjustment-Amplifiers/dp/B07Q2VN7RL - SMSL SA100, 50 watts per channel, and you can stream music via Bluetooth from your phone. It's about as bare bones as it gets but it should do the job just fine. It literally has just one RCA aux in.

For speaker cables, maybe Monoprice https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13913 or maybe something like https://www.amazon.com/Silverback-Strand-Speaker-Banana-Plugs/dp/B009RT2IAK

Or if you want to go as basic as possible, something like https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Oxygen-Free/dp/B079VJXN1Z/ - banana plugs are not necessary, and that 30 feet will get you two 15 foot speaker cables.

Very helpful, thanks.

So optimal would be this into the sub and this into the receiver, correct?

I love it. I personally have the black pair. Be prepared for that cable to break though. Here is a link to a good one just in case. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LTEUDO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's what you're looking for on the U.S. Amazon web site. It's available in 3, 6, 10 & 15-foot lengths.

Hopefully, you can use the information on this page to find it on another country's Amazon site.

This appears to be the same product on the UK site.

This appears to be the same product on the French site.

This appears to be the same product on the German site.

OK, I'm done.

There are two good ways to do this:
Option 1:
Grab yourself a set of these. https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/
Plug the double sided end into your source, and then feed the other end to your speakers. You'll then plug another set of RCA into the open ends on the source and send them to your Sub.
Option 2: If you don't like using the windows volume control, then you'll get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/
Also this: https://www.amazon.com/Link-BM105-Male-Barrel-Connectors/dp/B001NCDBEQ
The Barrel connectors will go into your source. Then plus the controller into the barrel connectors, then the piggyback cable into the other end of the controller. Then plug your RCA into backside of the Piggyback and put one set into the speakers, and one set into the sub.
Once you've chosen from the two options, you'll need to set up the speaker and the sub so the volume matches.
To do that I would turn the computer audio up to maximum. Then, turn your speakers up as loud as you would ever comfortably listen to them. Then get your subwoofer gain and crossover where you want it. You will then use your PC volume/or the control nob to control the volume of both of them. If you use the control nob, your PC volume will always be at max.
EDIT: You might also need this to get the sound from your motherboard audio out to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/

Thanks for the help!

Anything like this or this would work then, I assume?

The Chromecast audio has a good number of compatible apps. But the Bluetooth could potentially be easier in certain situations.

I can still control the volume on my phone when connecting to mine. I used a mini toslink to Optical cable :

FosPower (3 Feet) 24K Gold Plated Toslink to Mini Toslink Digital Optical S/PDIF Audio Cable with Metal Connectors & Strain-Relief PVC Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T8HWUVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.l16Ab2CG1BC0

If for some reason you can't, you could always connect it to your AD18 via the 3.5mm cable it comes with. It would essentially use the DAC on the CCA which isn't that bad.

yes im doing this on my Turnigy 9x tx: https://www.reddit.com/r/Multicopter/comments/3kaul2/anyone_know_of_a_us_shop_that_sells_the_rc_usb/

All you need is a headphone cable plugged into your 9x(http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Auxiliary-Headphones-iPhones-Stereos/dp/B00R124LAK), and then into the mic/line-in port on your computer. And then some fancy, free software that converts that into a controller that simulators can use!

This isn't as difficult as it sounds. You will have to have your hdmi connected to your monitor, and the av cables connected to the back of your Wii U. You will also need one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1418680524&sr=8-4&keywords=av+to+3.5mm&pebp=1418680539436

Alternatively you can get the female end if you want to use headphones, but this will allow you to connect it to your speakers so you can get audio from you Wii U.

In your Wii U system settings there is an audio output option. You need only select the option that allows you to output sound via the av cables.

It'd have been nice if Nintendo would have added optical output for audio, but since that is not the case, this is the easiest, and cheapest, way of getting this done. This is the exact configuration I have on my Wii U.

What does the adapter look like? I'm not sure what civilian plane jacks mean - do you mean the ones you plug into on regular flights for the in-seat entertainment?

If you can get another adapter to a stereo 1/4" plug, at $25 this would be in your price range with change:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-Compact-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482162286&sr=8-4&keywords=headphone+amplifier

The stereo 1/4" plug would look like this (the one on top, the smaller one on the bottom is your regular headphone plug for scale): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36

Speaker wire for the speakers, digital coaxial or subwoofer cables for the sub.

It looks like binding posts for banana plugs for the speaker connections on the wall plate.

Amazon and monoprice are good places for speaker wire as well.

Banana plugs -5 pairs

Subwoofer Cable -8ft. There are plenty out there for cheap. Just search subwoofer cable.

50ft 14 GA speakerwire. The speaker wire connects to the bananaplugs.

You'll probably need something like this: http://www.taiaudio.com/hosa-stereo-3-5mm-male-to-dual-mono-3-5mm-female-y-cable/

Then you can plug your headphones into the left channel, and get another cable to go from the right channel to the PA. I don't know what type of input your PA has, but if it has a 1/4" input, you would need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

Note that with the above setup, you will only get audio out of one side of your headphones. If you want it to come out of both sides, get one of these as well. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/888539-REG/CablesToGo_03174_3_5mm_Stereo_Female_to.html

Sorry for picking cables from 3 different sources. I just used Google and picked random links. But you can probably get everything from Amazon.

My guess. Mic plug is mono and input in a stereo plug.

You can try getting something like this http://www.amazon.com/Cables-40634-Stereo-Adapter-Metallic/dp/B000O7AW98

My guess with the other people being able to hear you in both sides is that most voice chat is mono.

Good luck!

Yeah I have enough mixer inputs but I need to get an adapter to convert my PS4 and WiiU audio into 3.5mm. Could I use something like this? Or do I need a full on converter like this?

Edit: Nvm I do need to box.

The SMSL M3 is a good, clean DAC. Warmer & brighter sound than the FiiO E10k, and with RCA full line out instead of 3.5mm, it makes connecting to a speaker amp a breeze. I have it running entirely on USB input right now, volume at 50%, front 1/4" output running to the LyxPro 4-channel headphone amp you see there & back output going to the SA60. My only gripe with the M3 is that its front output is controlled by an analog volume knob, which means enough turning and you'll get channel imbalance eventually. To avoid this, I use the LyxPro 100% of the time when using headphones, as it's much cheaper to replace and doesn't degrade audio quality as far as I can tell (just dulls the highs a little, a personal plus).

The SMSL SA60 is great, powers my Micca MB42s (unpowered speakers, of course) very nicely. As far as I can tell, it's nice and clean, and has enough features for most users. Bear in mind this does not have a sub out, so in my opinion it's best for light setups like the one you see pictured (2.0 setups, as opposed to 2.1 setups).

Things I like about the SA60:

• Bass boost (called "volume compensation" or something, if I remember correctly) can be enabled by pressing in on the volume knob, turning even bass-light music into wubby goodness.
  
• The volume knob is digital, meaning no channel imbalance. It remembers your volume when the unit is powered off as well (by pressing the Input button once).
  
• The banana plugs I have in the back are secured very tightly, as well as the RCA cables I use. One less thing to worry about.
  
  Things I dislike about the SA60:
  
• When plugging it in, it may spark. Just Chinese manufacturing, I suppose. I plugged mine into its power strip first then the unit (sparked at the unit), and has been running fine since.
  
• The front input (switched by holding the Input button to the left of it) hugs cables tightly. You have to hold onto the unit and tug before the cable comes out. To circumvent this, I have that right-angle connector in there instead, which easily rotates in the port and cables can plug in/out of that easily. Adapter found here.
  
  My headphone cable of choice is this 1/4" to 3.5mm cable by Hosa (the 3ft version). No gold plating, but the quality is comparable to other high-end 3.5mm cables (I've compared it to this Anker cable, for example). I have a personal vendetta against adapters, which is why I use this cable and not a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable with adapter -- I like my sound to be as clean as I can get it, and adapters only run the risk of degrading that AND adding more points of failure should something go wrong. The only adapter I use is the one connecting my M3 to the LyxPro, as for some reason its TRS input switches left and right channels… but not the RCA input. The TRS cable I use is very high quality, and the RCA adapter has gold plating on either end, so hopefully it should be fine. I haven't noticed any quality loss when using it.

> I also have one and they're the best of the three boutiques imo.

i agree, though i'm close to getting a jp-08 to complement it.

> You will just need an adapter 1/4" female to 1/8" male, you can get these just about any electrical retailer nowadays.

it would be recommended to get a stereo to mono summing connector though, since the ju-06 (all boutiques) output stereo signals. like this.

Link says it’s discontinued. Try the amazon basics cables, or monoprice. Good value, high quality. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Subwoofer-Cable-15-Feet/dp/B01D5H8GYG/ref=sxin_3_pb?crid=3KSMGRNBVJ54H&keywords=rca+cable&pd_rd_i=B01D5H8GYG&pd_rd_r=3da7e7df-1300-4472-a9df-ef86399f6929&pd_rd_w=IXDw8&pd_rd_wg=5aO8g&pf_rd_p=9f3d6e11-70d1-47bb-b5b9-f5fb86d89458&pf_rd_r=R6QG3NKMCPZXXDADGH47&qid=1573520542&s=electronics&sprefix=rca+c%2Caps%2C223

personally I would get a 35mm to RCA cable like this one and plug it into the line in at the back of your deck. No need for separate mic headphone jacks. But yes, your iphone should work great for this purpose!

It really depends what you are connecting to. The newer GoPros ONLY record audio through the USB interface. That makes it pretty much impossible unless you buy an expensive cable. If no GoPro or an older GoPro you can use any cable like this...

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-CMS110-inch-Adapter/dp/B000068O36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449143682&sr=8-1&keywords=3mm+to+1%2F4+inch+adapter

I also suggest getting a splitter if you don't want to take up a jack just for audio recording. It will allow you to plug in a headset along with it.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YPP118-Dual-Female-Cable/dp/B000068O56/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449143815&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F4+splitter

All in all yes its very cheap. The link Haykinson posted is a little overpriced although it contains everything you need.

To be more precise about what I've done:

From the audio out on the back of my PC, I plugged in the 1/8th inch inline ground loop isolator like what I linked above. Into the socket end of that I plugged in a 1/8 to 1/4 inch Y cable (or a splitter cable), then the ends of this Y cable plug straight into the JBL monitors. I have used something like this as the Y cable:

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S/

Does that make the set up a bit more clear?

No. The SM57 and SM58 are the same as far as internals go. You'll have better results upgrading to a reasonable mixer.


This mixer, with a cable like this would be a great upgrade.


Here is a sample with an SM58 and Xenyx 1202. This is a straight recording. No post or enhancements.

I bought one of these Xbox VGA adapters a few months ago, and it works like a champ.
If you get one of these RCA to Stereo adapters, you can run the sound into your computer's sound-in port and play your game sounds through your computer speakers.

I tested it with my brothers amp and his normal red and black banana plug wires (like the ones linked) and it worked great. This was off of his 200 W amp. Does that help?

I think that means that they would work with most modern amps. Right?

Get yourself a nice little Amp like an SMSL SA-50, a 3.5mm aux cable to connect your TV's headphone out to the amp, and some 16 gauge speaker wire to connect amp to speakers. Bob's your uncle.

IF money is type, you can go with a cheaper amp, but the first one I mentioned is nicer unit that you can keep when you upgrade to a TV with an optical out.

Get rid of those cables- they are garbage. The ones that i used are these:
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499780378&sr=8-3&keywords=monoprice+rca

Of course choose the proper length. With these i have zero noise n my table. I tried swapping in the original cables and its atrocious. These cables are super cheap and well insulated/shielded. This would be the first thing i would do in your case.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PZ7QO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using this now and it is actually very nice quality and works perfectly.

If you want a wired connection a 3.5mm to RCA into the rear inputs would be fine. Something like this would be fine, just grab the length you need.

If you'd prefer something wireless, grab a Chromecast Audio. It only comes with a short 3.5mm cable so you'll need something like this for the receiver end.

Depends on whether you purchase powered or passive speakers. Powered speakers do not require an external amp, passive speakers do.

Budget recommendation:

Micca MB42X Speakers

SMSL SA-50 Amplifier


You need this cable to connect the PC audio to the amp.

And this speaker wire to go from the amp to the speakers.

Plug the 3.5mm into the audio port on the back of the PC. Plug the red and white RCA plugs into the "Audio In" ports on the back of the amp.

Place the speakers and amp where you want them and measure how much speaker wire you need. Cut two pieces of speaker wire the appropriate length for each speaker (4 pieces in total).

You'll have to strip the insulation off the speaker wire. Very simple, you can just cut around the wire with a razor blade. Strip about 1/2" of insulation off each end of each length of speaker wire. Twist the ends tightly to prevent stray wire strands (the ends really should be tinned, but that isn't imperative).

Now you'll unscrew the plastic nut on the connections on the back of the amp and on each speaker. Just loosen it far enough to expose the small hole drilled through the side of the post. Insert the speaker wires, then tighten down the nuts. They need to be pretty snug. You don't want any movement of the speaker wire in the holes in the connectors. The wire you put in the black post on the speaker goes in the black post on the amp, and likewise for the reds. The connectors on the amp are labeled "R" and "L." Self-explanatory, left speaker wires go in the connectors marked "L," etc.

Turn the volume knob on the amp to zero, turn on the amp, then increase the volume. Leave Windows volume at 100, use the amp to control volume.

If you don't want to mess with cutting speaker wire, you can purchase premade cables like these: http://www.amazon.com/Silverback-Speaker-Sewell-Banana-Strand/dp/B009RT2IAK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1452657250&sr=1-3&keywords=speaker+cables

Those have banana plugs installed, so all you have to do is plug them into the ends of the connector posts like a standard audio jack. Do whatever you are most comfortable with, but cutting your own speaker wire is dead simple, and you get 50 feet of it for $8, as opposed to $35 for the premade cables (you'll need two, as they are sold individually).

• A 50' Roll of this
  
• A Pair of these to strip it
  
• These to install on the ends of the speaker cable for ease-of-use
  
• One of these for your "Subwoofer"
  
  And don't be like every other neophyte here and just JAM the speakers super close together on your entertainment unit... you need to get your bookshelves about as far apart from each other, as you are sitting from them... so get some stands too.
  
  ​
  
  These are affordable and adjustable.
  
  ​
  
  ​

I have these cables and these speaker feet. I recommend both.

I listen to just about everything, from classic rock to Shostakovitch to Dwight Yoakam to Kendrick Lamar. The HSUs sound great with all of it.

So that speaker system has 3 inputs: 1 RCA (red/white) and 2 headphone jack. With your three devices, assuming your TV has no audio out, you can connect each device via RCA cable, headphone cable, or an adapter for one to the other, to those three inputs on the speaker system, for your cheapest possible solution. So a mix of these cables should do, hopefully? Let us know what you think:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ/ref=zg_bs_597566_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/ref=zg_bs_597566_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=77XCX74SBHRRD7D85Q1V

https://www.amazon.com/MOCREO-Splitter-1-Mini-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B015J4OKZW/ref=zg_bs_597546_11?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=zg_bs_597546_19?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2Q1JZS2CEWWGYGWWCR6R

EDIT: and here's some extensions also, in case you grab any of the above and they're too short:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-Audio/dp/B01CNAUYBY/ref=sr_1_3?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742465&sr=1-3&keywords=headphone+extension

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-6-Feet-Cblwhl-Extension-10R1-02206/dp/B000I1GZ0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1481742502&sr=1-1&keywords=rca+extension

EDIT 2: Can you send us the brand/model # of your TV so we can check out the inputs/outputs? Thanks!

No. Depending on the console you're using, you need either

https://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Cable-Composite-Yellow-S-Video-Stereo/dp/B007NNDKFY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483340956&sr=8-4&keywords=composite%2Fs-video+cable+wii

or

https://www.amazon.com/Cinpel-S-Video-Cable-Nintendo-64-GameCube/dp/B00KZLEHL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483341056&sr=8-3&keywords=s-video+cable+gamecube

Plus one audio splitter cable, like this one

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483343243&sr=8-2&keywords=piggyback+cable+rca+audio

Basically, these console cables have two video outputs. You plug the Composite end into your TV, and the S-Video end into your capture card. Then you use the audio splitter cables to have audio on both your card and your tv. It's pretty easy to set up on any CRT using composite

Well... the 3rd part you'd want to get is female 3.5mm like this . The one in the post you linked is male to plug into a monitor.

Do you have anything to control the volume if you do it this way? Just something that would bother me.

edit: searched toslink to 3.5mm and stuff like this came up. No need for RCA to 3.5mm if there's already 3.5mm port. Looks like the power cable is USB, too. Maybe you can just plug into the PS4 and save a power outlet on your surge protector.

Ah I see what you're saying. Xbox One HS an option to play to both headphones and TV speakers. If PS4 doesn't have that option (an assumption on my part, I apologize), then a splitter is what you need. This one will do. You'll also need a 3.5mm cable. These are not brand recommendations, but will give you an idea with how the setup would work. Make sure the headphone splitter supports voice.

Something like this

I use Volca Keys with Ableton and I use something similar. Works great!

I did some pretty extensive research when trying to find a way to transmit audio from 2 separate sources into a single bluetooth headset without interruption... Plenty of headsets connect to multiple sources simultaneously, but none will play audio from 2 sources at once. I ended up having to kludge together three things to make this happen:


BT Receiver/Transmitter
3.5mm Splitter
2x 3.5 mm cables


I'm not sure if this would help you... Maybe each of you carry a similar bluetooth receiver/transmitter connected to some standard 3.5mm headphones. Or, a combination of a couple of the receiver transmitters... But that's a lot to carry on a run...


Bottom line, I was kinda shocked to see the lack of multi-device implementations with bluetooth in 2018. I feel like there should be more of a variety for this type of thing..


Now, after reading your post, I did a quick search for a 'bluetooth splitter' and came across this. Looks like it only works with iphone...


BT Splitter


Hope any of this conglomerate of info helps you.

Most PCs have a 3.5mm microphone input like this, and it looks like the Nintendo Switch has a 3.5mm audio jack, so you should be able to connect the two with any 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable, like this.

You'll have to go into the audio mixer/sound settings on your computer (I think this is done by right clicking the volume icon in the bottom right of the task bar) and configure the audio input (coming from the Nintendo Switch) so it will be played back live.

I suggest using the volume buttons on the Switch to turn it's volume down very low at first, then slowly increasing it until it's loud enough. It shouldn't have to be turned up very much, because the audio input is meant for a low power microphone.

Then, you should be able to plug your headset's usb connector into your computer and have audio from both the computer and Nintendo Switch played through your headset.

Yes, from the preamp you can connect an RCA-to-3.5mm(aux) cabe and hook it up to the speakers. You can look into the ART phono preamp, it's quite cheap and works ok: https://www.amazon.com/ART-Audio-DJPRE-Turntable-Preamplifier/dp/B000AJR482/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483211970&sr=8-1&keywords=art+phono+preamp

The cable you would need is like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Plated-Auxiliary-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B015PZ7QO2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1483212026&sr=8-8&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

Man you have a fairly dysfunctional system in that a lot of the things meant to minimize the setup are broken. With that said. Some options I thought of are:

Option a:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008JYB93G Cheapest DAC you can buy. $16
https://www.amazon.com/VONOTO-Switcher-Toslink-Splitter-Converter/dp/B00PZKA5E6/ for switching between toslinks $14
https://www.amazon.com/IEC-Speaker-Wire-Pair-Males/dp/B003U46G8I/ To connect the powered monitors to the subwoofer, you can use these with the splitters below.
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YRA-104-Dual-RCAF-Y-Cable/dp/B000068O4Y x 2
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-feet-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00DI89IQS $10 connects from splitters to subwoofer.

That is the low cost version. You can replace the $16 dac with a micca Origin+ ($110 shipped) and then you'd also have a cost-efficient DAC/PReamp with a volume nob, and ability to switch between input sources and output sources easier. Would also increase audio quality by a bit if your input source isn't too good.

Want to add an equalizer, high pass filters, etc? Look into a Mini DSP 2 x 4. That should take care of those needs. But I don't think it would really be all that necessary. Your call, this is the cheapest way imo to do this.

Best of luck.

I thought this was a digital to 3.5 but I was mistaken I think. Although maybe I could use an adapter like this? And yes I don't know the difference and am pretty ignorant about this kind of stuff.

> I later find out from very very few sources that it requires phantom power to operate

This is not true at all. Phantom Power is only used with Condenser Microphones operating between 9 and 48 Volt. The ModMic 4 is rated at a maximum operating Voltage of 1-10V and will work flawlessly with any high quality motherboard.

> Schiit Modi 2 and Magni 2

Are purely designed to output sound, they do not have the capability to accept microphone input. You cannot connect the ModMic.

What you should do:

• Get rid of of the ModMic 4
  
• Buy a Scarlet solo + ATH 2035
  
• Do not buy a Modi 2
  
• Connect the Line output of the solo to the Magni 2 via RCA
  
• ??????
  
• Profit

They make passthrough cables. Also known as piggyback.

RCA Audio Piggyback Cable, 2 RCA Male to 2 RCA Male + RCA Female Piggyback, 6 foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I94FAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lBlKAb4K83CST

3.5mm to rca on the switch. Run it to the computer piggyback cable. And an adapter for your headphones.

Should cost at the very most, $15 for everything.

That’s the most versatile setup.

For even cheaper, if the computer has a line in, run a 3.5mm from the switch into the pc. And just use the headphone jack or audio out on the pc.

That’s like $5 solution.

Personally I prefer the first option, it works better with amps, dac, and higher end headphones.

http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Cable/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1324298178&sr=8-2

$2.69, no shipping cost with Amazon Prime (probably qualifies for free super saver shipping too).

As kschange suggested. Something like this plugged into your phone and stereo aux port is probably best idea.

It's unlikely Hsu would put his subs on sale. They're what he's known for. You can call and ask him. He answers his own phone, and he's a really nice guy. He might even cut you a deal, if you're buying a sub and bookshelves together. He might not, too. But, hey...might as well ask!

So you're using your phone? If you're using your phone as a source, connecting through bluetooth to your integrated amp or amp/DAC combo, then you won't need anything else. I believe the Elac integrated amp has full bluetooth support. The Emotiva TA-100 has the firmware to support bluetooth, but you have to buy a dongle for it...so, there's another $15 or so.

That should be all you need, though, to get started. There's no end to the money you can spend on audio equipment, once you've decided to develop the habit. But to make music, all you need is something to take the signal from your phone and turn it into an analog signal, something to amplify that analog signal, and something to turn the analog signal into sound.

Oh, you'll need speaker wire. At least 16 gauge...lower numbers mean thicker wire, which means better transmission, generally. But don't go crazy with super-expensive speaker wire. And you'll need a cable to run from your pre-amp out to your subwoofer.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-16AWG-Speaker-Plated-Banana/dp/B00I52I2PU

You'll need 2 of those.

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0

You'll need one of those.

I do this to record my voice mails that I don't want to delete.

First, I use a regular auxiliary cord.

Then one end of that cord I plug into my phone, and the other I put THIS ADAPTER on it, and plug it into my Scarlett's microphone jack. Then I arm the track in Ableton and record like normal, as if I was recording anything else via my microphone.

Works like a charm.

The B112D's take 1/4" TRS inputs or XLR. The XLR connector on the speaker end is female, hence why you need a male cable (can't connect two female connectors!). I'm pretty certain by 2.5" you mean 1/4" (which is the same size as is used on guitar leads, and is larger in diameter than most headphone/earphone connectors). Unrelated but for future reference 3.5mm is often referred to as 1/8", which makes no sense since they're not the same diameter but shhh...

Of course, I imagine a 1/4" TRS to 3.5mm TRS cable should work just as well as the solution I posted, just connect the smaller, 3.5mm end to your laptop, and the larger, 1/4" end to 'Input 1' on the speakers. Then use the daisy-chaining technique I outlined in the parent post.

If you need stereo separation then that's a completely different matter, if it wasn't already complicated!

The S/PDIF port on your computer looks something like this:
http://www.electronicshub.org/types-of-computer-ports/#SPDIF_TOSLINK

It may also look like a 3.5 mm headphone jack. Check your computer manual to see which digital audio outputs are available on your computer.

The optical version of S/PDIF connects to the digital in on your xDuoo with a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T8HWV62/

(The gold does nothing because it's an optical connection.)

The coaxial version of SPDIF connects using a 3.5 mm mono or stereo patch cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00R124LAK/

For recording, I have a composite piggyback cable (one female into two males, i.e. a three-pronged version of this) that I send to my CRT and USB connector. All's well, but at my apartment, we typically keep my wii connected to our HDTV/sound system (my roommates tell me there are apparently other games people play on the wii besides smash) and so whenever I play (frequently) I have to pull my CRT out of the closet, and move the wires from our intricately wired sound system box to the back of the CRT.

I'm considering purchasing a second piggyback wire so that the wii can go to both the HD TV as well as my CRT, so I don't have to constantly re-wire things and so that I can have my CRT live by our entertainment system. Would there be any problems with lag or signal if I were to have the wii feeding out to three connections through all of these piggybacks? When I play I'll be keeping the HDTV off, and won't be recording much.

Key question here is are you attempting to connect directly to the speakers? If so, are they amplified at the speaker or by your home theatre amp. If it's by the amp, a direct connection from your echo to the speakers won't produce the outcome you're hoping for as the echo/dot/etc only put out a line level (read - non-amplified) signal, intended for amps or self powered speakers. If the speakers you're using are self powered then a simple piggyback cable will work (https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE)

You would replace your current cable from the receiver to the speakers with the piggyback then plug an 1/8" stereo to dual rca cable between your echo and the piggyback portion at the speaker (such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N10QD8B)

I'm betting the speakers are not self powered and your best bet is to use the 1/8" to rca type cable to tie into one of your receivers inputs and select that input when you want to use your echo for music and such. Not helpful for daily interaction perhaps but better than nothing.

Hope this helps

Choose a standard 1/4" instrument cable for the Circuit.
Plug one end into the L/mono input on the Circuit, plug the other end into one of the inputs on your audio interface.


Grab a 3.5mm and 1/4" cable like this for the Volca. Plug the tiny end into the headphones input on the Volca, plug the big end into another input on your audio interface.

Audio of both travels over USB. You can record into Audacity for free, or use whatever DAW you want.

If you want MIDI over USB, you'll need a different interface that has MIDI I/O.

You'll have to clarify the iphone and circuit question. I'm not sure it's possible to do what you have imagined.

Hey guys, simple question about a frugal speaker set up. I'm looking at getting this setup, suggested over in /r/BuyItForLife and I was wondering if I could get an opinion on it, or suggestions for improvement. Sadly, I have a pretty small budget of $85. I'm really just looking for something that will play decent sound and volume from my computer.

Speakers

[Amp]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012KZNP4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

RCA cord

Yeah the Magni just comes with the wall wart. You'll need an RCA to RCA cable to connect the Magni 2 to the Modi 2. Schiit sells these quite expensive ones, but I opted for the cheap Monoprice ones. They'll do the same thing, the Schiit ones are just shorter and maybe have somewhat better build quality. Then you'll need a USB A to B cable to connect the Modi 2 to your computer, again Schiit sells an expensive one, and Monoprice has a cheap one. And that will do it unless you get the Uber version and want to setup speakers.

If you only want mono you could go with something more like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-110-3-5mm-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O3D

It's that extra black ring on the 1/4 side of your adapter which is causing your sound quality issues so this one having the plain mono connector on the other side would take care of it.

u need one of these

im pretty sure there are some nexus7 installs on here...

i think the biggest problem is making it look good while sitting in the dash

didnt someone just put a small amp in place of the stereo due to theft ???

I need some help. Below I am going to list all the stuff that I currently have.

My goal is to use my JBL Speakers to play audio for Netflix which is run through an Apple TV.

I plug the Hosa cables into the JBL speakers and then into the 3.5mm to RCA. The RCA is plugged into the converter. The converter has a digital optical cable plugged into it. The other end of the optical cable is plugged into the Apple TV.

All I hear is hissing. No sound from the Netflix show.

Please let me know if I need to supply any additional information.

vizio tv

https://www.cnet.com/products/vizio-e371vl/

apple tv 3rd generation

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT200008#appletv-3rd

digital to analog converter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

3.5mm female to 2 male rca

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0156F38LG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Hosa 3.5mm TRS to dual 1/4" stereo breakout cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005HGM1D6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

JBL speakers (lsr305)x2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DUKP37C?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Yes, you run the subwoofer pre-out to the line in of the subwoofer using subwoofer cable. What's your current setup and budget for a subwoofer? The PSW10 isn't really a great sub. Something like the Dayton Sub-1200 would be better for not that much more.

Getting a set of T0s my self. :-)
Amazing little speakers and a sub out.

You need one of these and connect to the T0's analog input to the 6i6's line output.

I'm using the RB42s with an SMSL AD18 DAC+Amp. I'm using these speaker cables. Desktop use, with a computer. I'm also using an old sub from a Logitech speaker set to pad out the low end, but the speakers sound great on their own.

I'm sure you can find other 1/4 to 1/8 cables, unless you really wanted a custom one like you said, sleeved. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMS-110-Stereo-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068O36 And i'm sure you could pull off the 1/4 thing, might be a tight fix/awkward one.

Assuming that you are fine with using the right IEM earpiece in your left ear, your best options are:

• Convert all your audio to MONO using Audacity / ffmpeg / other alternative FREE
  
  
• Get yourself a 3.5mm Stereo Male to 3.5mm Mono Female Adapter $8

I am not responsible for any damage done to your computer. The reason I suggested the hardware solution with the 3.5mm to RCA adapters in my other post is because it does not change the functionality of your PC and is easily reversible. Registry changes like these seem small now, but as time goes on, you tend to forget what you did and will wonder "Why the hell doesn't my sound work correctly?" So... you have been warned.

Things you will need:

• 2 monitors with built in speakers (they must have speakers, not just the audio in jack)
  
• 2 3.5mm speaker cables
  
  First, plug one cable into the Green jack behind your PC and one cable into the Black jack. You must do this first before anything else. Open the Registry Editor (Windows + R, "regedit") and navigate to the following key:
  
  HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class{4D36E96C-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}\00XX\Settings\DrvYYYY_DevType_YYYY_SSYYYYYYYY
  
  XX is the key for Realtek High Definition Audio. It's usually 00, but you can click on 0000 and read the key for "DriverDesc" on the right panel and it should read "Realtek High Definition Audio".
  
  YY is usually a string of numbers and letters unique to each PC, so don't worry too much about this.
  
  Once you've made it to this registry folder, right click the folder on the left panel and select Export. Keep this somewhere safe in case you mess up or want to revert your jacks back to their original functionality.
  
  Next, you'll need to make one modification to an existing entry. Modify the following key:
  
  Pin15 = 04 00 00 00
  
  This will reprogram the Black (rear speakers) jack to act as if it is a GREEN (front speakers) jack. If Pin15 doesn't appear in your registry editor, make sure the cable is plugged into the Black jack and refresh Regedit. Once you've successfully made the changes, restart your PC so that the registry changes can take effect.
  
  Once your PC is up and running again, open the playback devices (Right click sound icon in taskbar, select Playback Devices). Then click on the speakers and select Properties. Under the Levels tab, find "Front" and click "Balance". Change the Balance to be ZERO Right and 100 Left. Your Green jack is now your left channel. Now find the "Rear" and change the balance to be ZERO Left and 100 Right. Your Black jack is now your right channel.
  
  Lastly, connect the 3.5mm cable from the Green jack to your LEFT monitor and the 3.5mm cable from the Black jack to your RIGHT monitor. Make sure the volume on your monitors is turned up. Once everything is wired up, you'll have your sound working exactly as you would like.
  
  For anybody curious with the hardware route, it's this:
  
  
• 1x 3.5mm male to RCA female
  
• 2x RCA male to 3.5mm mono male
  
  Plug the 3.5mm male to RCA female into your Green jack, plug one RCA male to 3.5mm mono male into the red RCA connector and plug that wire into your right monitor. Repeat for the white RCA connector and the left monitor. EZPZ.

>If you look at the bottom of the mini mic and see port holes, you have the 2+.

So I need to get a cable like this and just slip into the green speaker input on the back of the motherboard input / output and then the other end into the mini mic?


In terms of sound quality would this be just as good as the phone clip bluetooth?


Also as far as the phone clip and bluetooth, could the phone clip also work with any bluetooth speaker?

Sure. But it does have an analog input on the 3.5mm stereo AUX jack on the back. You'd just need a 3.5mm stereo to dual RCA female Y cable and plug a set of RCA's into it.

or if you didn't want adapters in there (I wouldn't), Just estimate what length of cable you'd need to go from the amp to your source with the RCA output (your TV?) Then get a longer one-piece cable with the 3.5mm stereo end built in.

• https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Auxiliary-Adapter-Stereo-Splitter/dp/B00GG5CF74/
  
  I own this in 25 feet and its perfect, had it for 4 years. (They make shorter ones too)
  

Ahh cool. Well in that case you can probably get away with something like this http://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Feet-3-5mm-Stereo-Cable/dp/B000V0G2C4

Cool, thanks for the info. I think actually that this is the cable I need, I posted a question on amazon to see if it would work. I think the one you linked is to send a signal from say an iPod to your mixer. http://www.amazon.com/Y-Cable-Splitter-Computer-Multimedia-Speakers/dp/B00ZKM3S4S?ie=UTF8&ref_=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

I have the RP-160m with the NAD C316BEE . I have never tried the rp-600m but I think they could work well with that amplifier.

You need speakers cables like these: cable

Thank you! that is very helpful. would this work:
http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_13?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1396463881&sr=1-13&keywords=RCA+adapter