(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best code readers & scan tools

https://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-SGIIFFP-Automotive-Customizable-Frustration/dp/B00VX2NOK2

(man, price keeps creeping up; got mine for a little over a hundred during a christmas sale)

It plugs into your OBDII and monitors your mpg real time as well as nearly every other thing your onboard computer keeps track of from throttle position to battery voltage (not necessary for you!) to DFCO. I used it a lot when my radiator was fucked to make sure I wasn't overheating since I don't trust the dash dial that always seems to stay in the same place no matter what.

Also doubles as a code reader which has come in handy more than once.

Great for not only hypermiling, but just to see how stuff you do affects your car and mpg, which will help you drive more efficiently regardless of your driving style. Really anybody with an interest in what their car is doing at any given time will love this tool. Makes commuting a game to try and beat your mpg high score.

Re: air flow sensor: it's probably fine! Pretty sure it'd be throwing some codes. What's probably happening is you can do better with your driving efficiency! Just driving with load and going the speed limit will make a world of difference.

Oh, if you've got a V6, then you will probably never hit my 4-cylinder numbers, but you should be able to get close. Probs 1-2mpg less.

I save roughly $250/year, which doesn't sound like a ton, but I'm about 20% more efficient and I rationalize the money saved as paying for both Netflix and Amazon Prime. Just by driving the speed limit and more efficiently, I'm getting those two subscriptions for "free"!

Definitely don't do the extreme hypermiling all the time though. I still like to have fun and be comfortable when I'm not experimenting. You'd be amazed at how much gas you'll save just by slowing down. Doesn't even lose you much time either. Speeding is so overrated! Coming from a guy who used to be a white-knuckle speed demon!

With oil futures skyrocketing, maybe driving efficiently in the coming months isn't such a bad idea ;)

I know that's how you feel, but what would you do if you didn't feel that way?

I'd be interested in helping you, if you're interested in pursuing this (I even have a potential business idea on how I'd use this data). Certain luxury manufacturers also let you use the ODB interface to manage advanced settings that are otherwise unavailable.

I searched GitHub for "ODBLink" (a popular scanner tool) to see what scripts/programs users have wrote, and found a Python program with a reference to a useful spreadsheet for how we could get started:

# Thanks to Brian Batista for the use of the CANBUS guide spreadsheet.

So, I searched Google for "canbus spreadsheet", and found this Google Spreadsheet: CANBUS Fleunze SE (top non-ad search result)

Similarly, for Ford Mustang cars, I did some digging and found Ford has opensourced their OpenXC tool:

>OPENXC
>
>While UDS is a closed protocol, researchers at Ford have been working on creating an open platform for interfacing with vehicles. The result is the OpenXC Platform. OpenXC provides a protocol to read data from Ford vehicles over CAN.
>
>To use it, you’ll need a vehicle interface. A chipKIT can be used with Ford’s open source firmware. Alternatively, you can buy a prebuilt solution from CrossChasm. Once the vehicle interface is up and running, you can access data from the Android and Python APIs. We’ve featured a few OpenXC hacks on Hackaday in the past.
>
>It’s great to see an automotive manufacturer embracing open source, and hopefully Ford continues to work on the platform. That being said, the OpenXC protocol is read only, and limited to a fairly small set of messages.

The conventional wisdom on ClubLexus.com is "If you're working on a Lexus or Toyota, nothing can beat Toyota Techstream." However, Carista comes close. Carista focuses on hidden features ("dealer-only settings") like daytime running lights. They provide similar "dealer-only settings" for other makes and models.

I personally use an expensive ODB-II reader, because:

• Scotty Kilmer's YouTube video "This Scan Tool Till Destroy Your Car" claims cheap scan tools can cause electrical problems in your car
  
  • For those interested in a cheap scan tool, he has a video, "The Best Cheap Scan Tool You Can Buy", which recommends the ANCEL AD410 Enhanced OBD II Vehicle Code Reader Automotive OBD2 Scanner Auto Check Engine Light Scan Tool (however, you can't use this tool for your project)
    
    I personally use BlueDriver ODB-II reader, instead of Carista, because:
    
    
• I can always convince a dealer to help me out, if I really needed to.
  
• It is the only OBDII adapter officially licensed with Android and Apple, so you know it will work with any smartphone you own.
  
• Bluetooth support
  
  • Easy to plug-in, pairs fast, and you don't need to bend over and hunch while reading codes because your serial port cable isn't long enough.
    
• Unlimited free vehicle specific Repair Reports, generated from our database of millions of fixes verified by ASE Certified Mechanics
  
  • You're essentially getting Lemur Vehicle Monitors database for free. Lemur owns the Identifix database professional mechanic shops use.
    
• Ability to log and export live data to a file (this is called ODB-II Mode 2)
  
• Vehicle specifications, maintenance schedules, recalls, Technical Service Bulletins, etc.
  
• ODB-II Mode 6: Test results for continuously and noncontinuously monitored systems, supported.
  
  • If you've ever watched
    
• BlueDriver Support is the best online ODB-II support/documentation, for free, anywhere
  
  • See, for example, these Q&A and How To articles:
    
    • What is Feul System B?
      
    • How to Test Compression
      
• Enhanced diagnostics (especially useful if buying a car at salvage/auction)
  
  >What are ENHANCED diagnostics?
  >
  >All vehicles with an OBD2 port are required to output basic information when the Check Engine Light comes on. However, a lot of important information (such as ABS, Airbag, Climate Control, etc.) is left behind by other scan tools and code readers. [...] BlueDriver gives you the complete set of diagnostics on a wide range of manufacturers.
  
  However, the downside to BlueDriver is:
  
  

1. Earlier versions of BlueDriver didn't require a PIN for the Software to authenticate with the Hardware component, so anybody could intercept your Bluetooth traffic and execute a man-in-the-middle attack and potentially kill you. (Read: Really, really don't buy an old, used version of BlueDriver Sensor). Note: This problem only exists in Bluetooth-based ODB-II Sensors.
   
   >Bluetooth pairing is incredibly simple — sometimes too simple for its own good. Without a four-digit PIN to offer a bare minimum of protection, anyone within a 30-foot range could connect to BlueDriver dongle. If the dongle is not currently connected to a phone, the process will be trivial, and even if the dongle is connected, it's sometimes possible to prioritize a new connection over an existing one.
   
   
2. BlueDriver Sensor (Hardware) only works with the BlueDriver App (Software). I haven't tried snooping on their bluetooth data stream, but I suspect there is an authentication token the Software sends to the Hardware to allow bidirectional communication over bluetooth.
   
3. If you're looking for an ODB-II reader to bring to salvage/auction, you might prefer one with a dongle, as it doesn't require a pairing step and will begin reading codes immediately.
   
   In terms of "fun projects", I was thinking it'd be cool to use ODB-II Mode 6 and visualize, in real-time, Scotty Kilmer's "How to Get Your Car to Pass the Emissions Test (Life Hack)".

I have the Mac Mentor Touch Scout. It's an android based tool that's the same as this OTC Encore, but a few hundred bucks more. I bought it with a TPMS tool for $2500ish. I'm pleased with it, it's done almost everything I've asked of it, from actuating actuators to solening solenoids, to pumping pumps, to honking horns. Thankfully I don't do much on European cars, and the little bit I've used it for was pretty minimal. It did have quite a bit of tests on a Volvo I worked on a bit ago, but that was pretty much a Ford anyway. I use the tool more for viewing data than the tests, and it's pretty well laid out and easy to use.

Because it's an android tablet, you can use it to watch videos and games and stuff like that. I used it to watch NCAA tournament this spring.

It also integrates other sites into the diagnostics, like Prodemand, Identifix, etc, to help you find diag procedures easily. If your shop has identifix (or you can use someone else's!), it really adds a lot to the tool. During the demo, Mac guy was saying this screen will have like pinouts and connector locations and etc, but they're rarely there.

My complaints:

It's slow to start up. Work neighbor has a Solus Edge (I think), and he can have his booted and reading data before mine is even to the vehicle selection screen. The Edge though isn't nearly as well laid out IMO, and I haven't found anything his can do that mine can't and vice versa (though the Edge cost $3900 vs $2500). It also has a feature to scan all modules for codes. You can start it and "walk away" (you might have to select a few controllers) and it will go through each module and find any codes. The Solus Edge does it soooooo much faster it's not even funny. You're probably looking at like 30 seconds on each module on the Mac, and some modern cars have lots of modules. Engine, airbag, tpms, body control, trac control, radio, door modules, liftgate module... I could go on and on. But the Solus Edge is like 30 seconds for all of them.

Subaru. There's almost nothing for Subaru on these tools. I don't know about the Edge, but my Mac tool doesn't do much at all. There's some data I can see, but not much. Had a 2000 Outback the other day and had to use Global OBDII. There aren't really any useful special tests, even on newer Subarus, and the data is pretty limited.

Mac said the scan tool has a lifetime warranty on the hardware as long as I keep the tool updated. Updates are $700 for a year.

I've never used the Autel unit, but when we had a Matco guy, he sold them and said great things, said every shop he's sold one to loved it. I have a buddy that has one at their shop and he can't say enough good things about it too.

they do they have dozens of e150 250 350s which i think are pretty much all the same but either way have a bunch of e250's. Also good idea with the tires lol the guys at lubestop told me the two front tires were both wrong sizes and different sizes from each other.
I think they're same length but there recommended psi's were different 35 and 45 and van says 55 on the door and 2 backs are fine.
I forgot to tell the guy i bought the van from about the jack and spare when I bought it.
someone mentioned on here to knock off couples hundred bucks if it doesn't have those since they are basically a must and cost about that much to replace so hopefully I can find some (doubtful in my area tbh but I'll be optimistic)

Is an obd2 scanner the same thing that the autopart stores use? already see one for $15 on amazon I saw one on shelf at advance for $150.

What do you think about this one the $15 one didn't have too great of reviews this one on the other hand is pretty good

https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL519-AutoLink-Enhanced-Scan/dp/B007XE5LTG/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3CBMH3YERQG022WPCGG0

Any specific reason to get from harbor freight. is this what you mean
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL519-AutoLink-Enhanced-Scan/dp/B007XE5LTG/ref=pd_lpo_263_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3CBMH3YERQG022WPCGG0

Im gunna head to the shower then come back check for reply real quick then off to bed, long day tomorrow! Thanks for everything you're a true hero lol

The stock tuner would lock up on me but I knew when I bought the car it was going to be replaced.
I upgraded to the Pioneer AVH-4200NEX and I am happy now having Android Auto. There is a similar Kenwood. I was able to retain armrest usb and the backup camera.
The trick is the backup camera requires a 6V supply which the Maestro RR provides. If you go with a different SWC there is a 12V to 6V voltage regular you can buy on amazon. For the connectors I used ae64.com. Contact the site owner and he will make sure you get the correct harness.
The dash kit from Scosche looks like it was factory built. I used the factory brackets for mounting the stereo so it is solidly attached.
Parts list:
HU: AVH-4200NEX
Dashkit: SU2031B
Steering wheel control: Maestro RR
Antenna adapter: 40-SB10-18
Then you need a 10+6 and the 28 pin connectors.
USB adapter AX-SUBUSB2
The steering wheel control can pull ODB-II info out from your cars computer. I didn't want to splice into my ODB-II port so I cut up this extension cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UR5XBMW
When you crimp or solder the harnesses together I got mine to be about 6" long. Shorter the better as there is not much space.

Here is a great video on how to get the armrest and stick out of the way to access the antenna connector.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hwc_IvxD59Q

Download chffr here. It's pretty neat, functions as a dashcam and sends the video to help train self driving cars.

It's not a lot to get started. The only thing you'll really need is a mount that holds your phone steady and allows the camera to point out the windshield.

If you really want to help, I'd recommend getting one of these and a panda. You can link the panda to chffr and pass along all that data you want.

$85 is insane! You can get a Bluetooth OBDII scanner for $10 on Amazon, and get the Torque app on android for around $3. As far as I can tell, that's identical functionality for $13 bucks.

EDIT:

Yall requested links, so here you go:

• Here's the OBDII that's in my Car right now (this particular one isn't stable on IOS, only Android, but there are plenty of others in the same range that work fine on either)
  
• Here the Torque Pro app that my phone runs
  
  I installed the "Lightning Home" launcher replacement, and made it not my default, then I created a homescreen of my most useful Torque widgets and common controls for driving, like a subsonic widget, and maps. I have tasker set up to open the app when I connect to my car's bluetooth and put the phone in my QI charging dock.

So awesome! I actually purchased one of these to help hide the unit. Usually it can be noticed how it hangs or even hit with your knee. This cable lets me tuck it away somewhere less obvious with a little double sided tape :)

I picked up this code reader for my car: https://www.amazon.com/V6-4-Creator-Scanner-Multi-System/dp/B00VSYZ2NC/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1494109830&sr=8-8&keywords=bmw+code+reader

You'll also need to order an adapter to connect it to the round port under the hood...you can find that for like $8 on eBay. I've been pretty happy with it.

There are a couple on amazon I'm thinking about. Would like to keep it under $50.

Deciding between this ANCEL AD310, and this ANCEL AD410. Either one seems to fit my pretty basic needs for a scanner...

Sure is! I did it with my 435i (R.I.P.) a few months back. The only downside I noticed was that the car didn’t warm up as fast but that’s it. You can also change the tire monitor to show your exact PSI and temperature, make your mirrors fold in when your car locks, change the sounds the car makes (can make the chimes sound like a rolls Royce for example), and tons of other things.

Definitely do this at your own risk, but it’s as simple as getting the OBD adapter (they probably have an updated product by now) and an app for your phone. I used BimmerLink and BimmerCode personally but there’s other options as well.

https://www.amazon.com/LAUNCH-Creader-Scanner-Transmission-Activation/dp/B079FH12YN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1536121307&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=odb2+scanner+abs+SRS&psc=1

Has been recommended in this thread, and seems pretty complete as a standalone unit that should read ABS codes and such.

With that said, I'm a huge fan of basic (but quality) $50-$75 bluetooth scanners as they're then software dependent... Get a nice open software package (see: TorqueODB with it's plugins and custom PID's available) and they're golden. My favourites are the Scantool.NET line: https://www.scantool.net/ that you can simply plug into your ODB2 port and leave connected all the time - don't do this with cheap blue ones from eBay, as they'll kill your battery in short order. I have an older model in my Sierra right now, have a tablet mounted to my dash, and thus have everything about it nicely graphed live while running. Pages for maintenance, fuel economy details, etc.

I got this usb one and it’s worked great on my 2012 r55 and a few Friends bmws. I just use an old android phone and keep it in my glovebox. LZLRUN INPA K+CAN K+DCAN Car Diagnostic Tool Cable OBD USB Interface for BMW R56 E87 E93 E70 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017IG81SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I57YAb3G3H8VD

I have the LELink. It works great, easy pairing and fast refresh rate.

LELink^2 Configurable Auto On/Off Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II OBD2 Car Diagnostic Tool For iPhone/iPod/iPad and Android https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0755N61PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JQBtDbFP4S3MM

I got this reader seven years ago (no app). And I would say if it comes to price, focus on erasing over lookup features - I've always just Googled my codes and it worked fine.

It looks like this is the successor - well rated, but not cheap. The emissions status is a good feature, too. Looking around... this one is what I would buy today.

I use a magnetic car mount off amazon. I used a dremel and routed out a little piece of the plastic trim around the head unit and ran the cable down that and through the center console. Then I used a switched obd2 power cable to extend to the OFT cable.

The install is super clean if you're willing to cut into your trim piece a little bit.

this one has live data from the car, $33

This one only reads codes but gives you the definition $18

This just reads codes, nothing else. $15

If they quoted you $3200 its probably a professional scan tool, those can read anything going on in the cars computers and even take control of stuff too. If you just want to see what's causing the check engine light and of the above 3 would work.

this last one is more expensive, but it can read obd2, abs, and air bag codes. Pretty much everything the big $3k unit does.

BMW Scanner 1.4.0 works for this and is way easier than INPA. I used it on my old E38, E39, and E53. I've moved onto the F10 now and use Rheingold which is like INPA but way easier.

https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Scanner-Programmer-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B008RHJTS2

http://www.amazon.com/Wirless-Diagnostic-Reader-Scanner-Iphone/dp/B00AOIM2CC

http://www.amazon.com/ERUSUN-Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-iPhone4S/dp/B00JB45SRQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407363316&sr=1-2&keywords=odb2+iphone

let reddit know if that meets your requirements, otherwise good luck on your unicorn search.

Yea, its likely thrown some codes that would shed some light on wtf is going on. Alternative is to take it in, you need a tech 2 gm scanner to reprogram a throttlebody or a scanner capable of running gm stuff.

This is the scanner I have for myself: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QIYAQ0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1UMBRA5ZTBCX8 Does almost everything really but higher end stuff a dealer only scanner would do. There are cheaper ones as well, harbor freight sells a nice one for about 50 bucks. Or you can get a bluetooth one and the torque app I recall.

If you only want to pull & clear codes, you can find reliable scanners for $15. There's one going around called "U480 CAN-BUS OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner"
http://www.amazon.com/U480-CAN-BUS-OBDII-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005FJ0BRI/
No fancy features, only the ability to skip to the next code or clear the one you're on.

Get this and an app called torque. It's pretty plug and play

http://www.amazon.com/ERUSUN%C2%AE-Bluetooth-Interface-Scanner-Compatible/dp/B00ARAQHGE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1418393777&sr=8-7&keywords=bluetooth+obd2&pebp=1418393803712

>Using sensors already present in the vehicle, the technology will measure and display information on things such as:

>
g forces pulled when turning
>
acceleration times for 0-30, 0-60 and 0-100 mph (48, 97 and 161 km/h), along with eighth-mile and quarter-mile figures
>
a timer that starts when the car accelerates from a standstill, plus a drag strip-like countdown timer
>
braking performance for 60-0 or 100-0 mph

All of these are already displayed on the 2012 Challenger SRT, and the timers are available on any Challenger with EVIC. They sure don't look this nice though! Ford really sets the bar high with their dashboard electronics these days.

The good news is that you can get all this info and loads more displayed on a customizable dashboard with any Android device, a $15 ODB2 Bluetooth interface, and the Torque app.

I picked up this one for my husband last year on a gold box deal. As far as I know it works well, and gets used a couple times a month between out cars and those of friends and family. Maybe it'll go on sale again soon?

I'm pretty sure I found it - This seems to be the beast right here.

Which is a great advice and everybody should do! They are cheap nowadays.

I've not tested a bunch but this one is only $11 and it works fine. I leave it in the port and it doesn't run the battery down or anything. Then I used Torque for Android to read and clear codes.

The best iOS app for a Volt is MyGreenVolt. I use it with this WiFi OBD adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/Vgate-Elm327-Reader-iPhone-Android/dp/B01FU5MVI8

I usually use my laptop and bluetooth, so I can't recommend one from experience, but this one looks good from what I see.

https://www.amazon.com/Vgate-Elm327-Reader-iPhone-Android/dp/B01FU5MVI8/

Hey bud. That code reader is really, really outdated. It's a very basic one that is ultra economy. It's not going to work for certain cars because who knows why. I recommend an Angel AD410, it's a scanner I use at my shop for quick diag for simple problems, however in your case it will work very well and give you a lot of extra functionality, you can find it here: https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD410-Enhanced-Vehicle-Automotive/dp/B071FSNL73/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=ancel+ad410&qid=1574729264&sprefix=ancel+ad4&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTlFCWUJKM1FUOTBCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzMwNTI1Sk04UjNKVjhISVhVJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNDk5MTYxOFhNUzdYVllHU1dNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Also, what code is the light on for? Did you fix the issue?

This piqued my interest, and I spent a few moments looking for it. For any others following, what you want is "Bluetooth Car Code Reader."

Example: http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Reader-Compatible-Android-Torque/dp/B005C6KIVS

This one at Amazon or dozens of other choices for $10.99. Requires a free Android app called "Torque". For basic code history reading (and it lets you reset the codes).

I have this little scanner. It was $60 in Autozone (I didnt want to bother shopping around), and you'll need to google what the codes mean. But it is fairly useful, as I can pop it into my glovebox and not have it take up a lot of space.

Hey just found out that Amazon sells these scanners with Prime shipping for $25.

http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Scanner-Programmer-Eeprom-Diagnostic/dp/B008RHJTS2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417474668&sr=8-1&keywords=bmw+scanner+1.4.0

Get you one :-)

There’s a v2 out now that I got and works good:

https://www.amazon.com/LELink-Configurable-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B0755N61PW?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

Here's a WiFi one I use on my mk6. Not Bluetooth, but works just the same (just go to wifi and join the WIFI_OBDII ap, then use your preferred OBDII app)
https://www.amazon.com/iKKEGOL-Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter/dp/B00JB45SRQ

Op, I just ordered one of these OBDII extensions. It'll help keep your legs from hitting the cable while you drive. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EECXAY8/ref=ox_ya_os_product

$12 Will buy you a Bluetooth OBDII code reader.
Load the Torque app on you phone, connect, scan, pull real time data and clear codes.

You can just split OBD2, it's a shared bus architecture. Not all accessories will appreciate this (mainly anything sending data not just reading it), but splitters are only a couple bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-16Pin-Splitter-Extension-Female/dp/B000TMCX72

Yes you are seeing white at the turn signal lights. When I am using side marker lights, low beams or high beams. Those turn signal lights will be white. But when I turn left, right, and hazard it will be back to amber.

Front turn signal LED lights(7444NA):
https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Bright-Projector-Replacement/dp/B077P5CDSX/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523552526&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=ibrightstar%2Bx001Cy5ax1&th=1

Front head lights type: 9003/H4/HB2. If you want fog lights it is H8(H11/H8/H9):
https://www.amazon.com/LED-Headlight-Bulb-Conversion-Kit/dp/B075J8VQDX/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521933924&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=h4+led&psc=1
DO NOT remove the original manufacture Dielectric Grease on the H4 socket. Unless you using some other brand of Dielectric Grease.

Side marker lights(2) has a bunch of names too. Type 194, T10, W5W(These are also the same lights for driver side(1), front passenger side(1), back passenger(1), trunk(1) and license plates lights(2)):
https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Chipsets-Replacement-Courtesy-License/dp/B071LHP5WP
So, this 10 pack you will be using 8 out of 10. Remember if it doesn't work turn it 180 degree.
https://imgur.com/a/gewfk

Back Reverse lights and back turn signal lights. Type 7443 you will have to get 2 of this. Making it 4 LED bulbs.
Not to worry that the LED is white for turn light. Because the back housing is RED. So White LED + RED = Bright Red. Be warn: We didn't use resistor front and back. So, we are getting hyper flashing.
https://www.amazon.com/iBrightstar-Newest-Projector-Replacement-Reverse/dp/B06XQWPKKX/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523552407&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ibrightstar%2Bx001mz3ma3&th=1

For the back lights, you will need to use the philip screw driver, the X kind. So, you can take out the housing and install the LEDs. The very top red part are turns on when you use Side markers, low beam and high beam. And those top red lights are LED already. So you don't have to change those. All you need to do is the White one and the bottom Red one for both side. So you need a total of 4 LED type 7443.

You might want to get trim tools. Unless you want to use a t-shirt and a flat head screw driver. But having trim tools can help you with wire management for heads up display and for dash cam wire. I do recommend the trim those thats 13pcs or 14pcs. Because that 1 or 2 extra tool with give you the option to pop those plugs under the front of the car if you are going to replace the fog lights(H8 according to the manual).

Other things we have:
Heads Up Display Model A8:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071418CKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now you don't have to guess what speed you are on. We really hate that analog speedometer. 2018 and we still using analog. I notice they are out of stocks. Here are list of HID Model A8: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_gnr_aps?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AHeads+up+display+A8&keywords=Heads+up+display+A8&ie=UTF8&qid=1525533852

OBD2 Y-Cable:
1 is for the Heads up display, and the other one for those check warning device.
https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-16Pin-Splitter-Extension-Female/dp/B000TMCX72/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523574579&sr=1-7&keywords=OBD2+y+cable

OBD2 Scanner car diagnostic tool:
https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Chip-WIFI-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B075B3CG7S/ref=sr_1_23?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523574641&sr=1-23&keywords=obd2+check+engine
there are other ones. You might want to do your research before buying one.

Windshield wiper. Front driver side is 28 inch, Front passenger side is 14 inch. Back rear is 14 inch.
We use this brand. Since silicone last longer than rubber: http://www.piaa.com/aerovogue
We replace the whole thing for the front 2: Pick 28inch and 14inch.

Front Passenger side - 14 Inch: https://www.amazon.com/96165-Vogue-Silicone-Wiper-Blade/dp/B00JA390K4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523575183&sr=1-1&keywords=piaa%2BAero%2BVogue&th=1

Driver side - 28 Inch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JA39676/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe this is what we got for the back. It is a refill blade. Be warn. It is hard to installed.
https://www.amazon.com/PIAA-94035-Silicone-Wiper-Refill/dp/B003NCBGYG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1523575369&sr=1-1&keywords=piaa+14+inch+refill

Coolant: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006YX9YZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Funnel + Tube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072N5NZXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Trim Tools 12-PCS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HYD91Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Also, Scotty Kilmer use PIAA silicone wipers:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AFdUihWPCk

Optional: Dielectric Grease for the bulbs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zhl3bLzgq9A

if you plan to keep the car, I would say yes. I have the Creator C310+ and it works well for regular obd codes and Manufacturer DTCs. it's nothing fancy but it's one of the cheaper ones

I've personally never had the issue (yet anyway). However, from my understanding is a semi common thing with torque caused by leaving torque open or in a sleep state and the connection to the OBDII being open when starting the car.

I always either start the obd connection and app before starting the car (key in accessory position) or wait until the car is running to start everything up.

I'd highly recommend one of these cables or something similar to make killing power easy and also ensuring the app is closed after each use

Sure -- I replaced my thermostat a few years back for the same reason; spontaneous overheating problem turned out to be a loose nut on the back of the temp gauge. Peace of mind, nevertheless.

FWIW, here's a more mainstream version of the knock-off live-data reader that I've used on my '97 Mazda: https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL519-AutoLink-Enhanced-Scan/dp/B007XE5LTG/ref=pd_sbs_229_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1RVZ44082QGZP3MGBT7J.

Exdiag U480 CAN-BUS OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FJ0BRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ccZLcPj2Ocbwn

Please dont laugh at me lol. From 1-10 I'm guessing its gonna be a low 2 in terms of quality. I'm willing to spend 100-150.

Residing in NC

No problem, actually to give my personal anecdote some real detail.

$35 scanner that can read live data

$155 Scanner that can read SRS and ABS

Glad to help.

Bought this last month. Works fine.

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0051DUVK0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Not $8, admittedly, but at least it worked.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FSNL73/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bluetooth ODBII Scanner - Also comes with Windows software to use with a PC

Torque App - For using with Android

I think I bought one of these. I've used Datens in the past, but the last time I programmed my car I used the Carly Android app.

Splitter- $10.99

Those will do engine codes, but not airbag/brake codes. I had to get this to clear them in my Mini:
https://www.amazon.com/Creator-System-Engine-Reader-Diagnostic/dp/B00VSYZ2NC

You would need a different one, as I'm not familiar with Hondas, but I posted that one as an example.

scan gauge 2 can most things for your 6.0

First, you can buy a code reader for your car, they work with your phone and they're cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Reader-Compatible-Android-Torque/dp/B005C6KIVS

It's possible these are all related.

Read your own codes: https://www.amazon.com/Goliton-Bluetooth-Reader-Compatible-Android/dp/B005C6KIVS

Seems odd to be that low. If you go look at used leafs, it's worth buying the leaf spy pro app and an ODB2 Bluetooth module:

LELink^2 Configurable Auto On/Off Bluetooth Low Energy BLE OBD-II
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0755N61PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zkU0CbJEPZHB8

It will show you the remaining battery capacity.

The way it was described to me is this: the smart uses an electronically controlled clutch. In order to determine how far to push the clutch in, the system needs to periodically check the thickness of the clutch plate. It does this by a sensor that sometimes gets drunk. If it misreads the depth, it will put too much or too little force on the plate. If it pushes too hard, the system will go into a safety mode to prevent catastrophic failure. And, by safety mode, I mean it stops working. Even if you are driving.

Normally, the system resets itself every few starts. If it has the odd freak-out, it needs to be done manually.

Get an ODB2 reader. Scanners are super cheap.
ANCEL AD410 Enhanced OBD II Vehicle Code Reader Automotive OBD2 Scanner Auto Check Engine Light Scan Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FSNL73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SE3hDb80M7JKR

Buy your own code reader for $13 and diagnose the problems yourself.

Which go pro are you using?

Was that a still or a screenshot from a video?

How did you mount it? I don't have a go pro, I just use my phone(with track recorder, $10 OBD2 dongle, torque app and my LG G3), but the mount falls down every time I hit a bump because the surface in the back is not very good for adhesion. Here is a screenshot from a video I took (I forgot to make it 1080p but still looks cool). Got the dials, video from the back and a transparent map overlay
http://i.imgur.com/fCkSVnc.png

that is an important distinction, I meant when I turn the engine on, I have this not sure if it can scan the oil indicator. subaru calls the light "Engine low oil level warning indicator" not sure if that makes a difference.

I went with Carista because OBDEleven is for Android only. I have no complaints with Carista. It's as simple as finding an option and clicking on or off. Coolest thing ever. I enabled the gauge needle sweep, LED DRL wink when blinker is on, and the windows controlled via the keyfob.

I think the leaving home light settings are spotty because I don't have the auto headlights.

I used a wifi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FU5MVI8/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504530217&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

I have no experience with either of those, but I've been using this one for a while with no complaints: Actron CP9125. Other than Actron being a more recognizable brand, I have no clue if it's $20 better than the ones you've linked, though Amazon's reviews seem to side with that Autel.