(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best crimpers

Thanks :)

You could write sequences easily enough, and in fact it would be relatively trivial to fire them off spontaneously with simple pushbuttons as input to your microcontroller. When I put that costume together, I wore a little custom switchboard like a watch that had the arduino installed on it along with a series of pushbuttons and rocker switches to turn things on and off.


Syncing to music directly might be tough - certainly doable, but it may just be easier to have buttons which perform preprogrammed actions. There are a lot of ways things could go awry when trying to line up audio with circuits. For professional shows it's better to have an engineer or two (on further viewing, it looks like they had 3 guys manning this in the show) on the sidelines controlling all that stuff, but if it's just you a simpler and more adaptable route might be to program 8 or so actions, wire buttons from the arduino to your fingertips to fire them off, and rely on your own timing and coordination to get things really moving. Just a suggestion to avoid overcomplicating things, and using such a technique also allows you to be a bit more adaptable (say, for example, if you want to use the surrounding music like at a club as opposed to needing your own).


Also /u/Tinkrr2 is right about the voltage requirements varying by brand - make sure you look into that. Finally, if you're looking to make this into a semi-permanent hobby then it helps to have an adjustable power supply handy. A beefy battery, a sizable power supply, a few barrel jacks, some Dupont connectors, and most importantly an adjustable buck converter will take you very far. I wouldn't worry too much about any of this now, but if you decide you like tinkering with electronics (especially LEDs, which have moderate power requirements) that would be a terrific start.

Have you wired... anything before? You'll need to be able to terminate wire to do it, but that's not too big a deal. There's also a bunch of different ways to go about it, depending on who you talk to. My preferred method goes something like this:

Acquire parts:

• 4 gauge copper stranded, jacketed wire of appropriate length to reach from starter to house battery, plus a little wiggle room, plus another section to go from house battery to frame.
  
  
• an in-line fuse holder to go right off the starter battery positive
  
  
• another fuse holder for the house battery, I like to use a triple-fuse holder, but you can just use another in-line like the one above.
  
  
• 100 amp fuses for both
  
  
• 4 gauge ring connectors/lugs.
  
  
• some sort of isolator. Basic-tier manual, a dual-battery manual switch (intermediate), or something more automatic, like a voltage sensitive relay.
  
  If you can't work out another good way to crimp the ends on, just pick up a crimp tool along with it.
  
  Plan:
  
  You need to create a circuit from the alternator to the house battery. Circuits are loops; in a DC circuit (as most are on a vehicle), the magic power fairies have to come from the power source via the positive terminal, through the thing they're powering, then return back to the negative terminal of the thing they came from. Most vehicles use the body and frame as the return path for the fairies. The devices' negative sides all connect to the body or frame, and so does the battery or batteries, so once they get to a device, they can always get back to where they came from, whether they came from the alternator (grounded through the engine block/bracket), starter battery, or house battery.
  
  Next, you need to consider where each component will live. You need to connect positive to positive from starter to house battery, with all the other doo-dads in between. The fuse holders should be very close to their respective batteries. Like, less than a foot. I lay my starter battery's fuse right on top of the battery, so anyone working on the van later can't miss it, and should know to consider the rest of that circuit when appropriate. My starter battery's fuse is mounted right next to the battery. The placement of the isolator depends on what kind it is. If it's a manual type, you'll need to access it from within the cabin; I like to put my house battery and a manual isolator pretty close behind the driver's seat, so I can operate the switch from there or from within the cabin. If you go with an automatic jobber like the VSR I linked, that doesn't need accessed again except for troubleshooting, so it's common for it to be mounted near the starter battery in the engine bay. Either way, the wire will go from starter battery positive, through a fuse, through the isolator or VSR, through the house battery's fuse, to the house battery positive.
  
  
  
  There's two types of connections to make with the linked items: "set screw" and "lug". The fuse holders I linked all use set screws, and everything else will use lugs. To make a lug connection, you strip back the wire jacket from the end of the wire just enough so the remaining copper strands fit into the sleeve (and only the sleeve) on the lug, then crimp it down. The lug then gets a bolt through it to make its connection. There is typically already a bolt on the starter battery terminal somewhere, and this is where it will go, though both batteries' terminals will vary in their format. You may need an extra doo-dad to make it right. For a set screw type connection, you strip back the wire jacket as before, back out the set screw, put the wire in its hole, then tighten it into place with the set screw.
  
  Installation:
  
  Snip off a foot of 4 Gauge wire, remove the fuse from the inline fuse holder, then set-screw the wire into one end. The other end of the wire gets a lug, and goes on the starter battery positive. From the other end of the fuse holder, route it to a VSR (if applicable; install its additional ground wire to one of its mounting screws, into the body), then on to the house battery location. Here, it will go through a manual isolator switch (if you don't choose the VSR), then through a fuse, and on to the house battery positive terminal. The negative terminal of the house battery gets connected to the van body or frame with a couple lugs on as short a wire as possible; a seat or seat belt hole is typically a good ground lug - just remove the bolt, add your lug with wire already crimped on, and reinstall the bolt.
  
  Once all connections are made, you can go back and insert your fuses. If you chose the dual-battery switch, it has 3 lugs on it: a "common" lug, battery A, and battery B. The wire coming from the starter battery goes to battery A, the wire going to your house battery goes to battery B lug, and the common lug is for your load (aka, your devices). The switch has 4 positions: "A","B","Both", and "off". You can set it up other ways, but in this configuration, the first two select which battery power is drawn from for the devices connected to the "common" lug, the "both" setting literally chooses both, which means it also is the setting for charging your house battery, and "off" ensures the devices get no power from either battery, and that the batteries aren't connected to one another.
  
  Manual isolator operation:
  
  With the engine running, turn the simple isolator "on", or the dual-battery switch to "both". This connects the batteries, which connects the alternator to the house battery. If the alternator can charge it, it will (see "Caveats" below). When you stop running the engine, and want to run devices without draining the starter battery, turn the simple isolator "off", or set the dual-battery switch to "B". If you go with a VSR, this happens automagically for you, and you can forget I typed this paragraph.
  
  Caveats:
  
  The house battery isn't as close to the alternator as the starter battery. This introduces resistance to it, which comes with voltage drop. The alternator has a voltage regulator in/on/near it that senses the voltage of the battery (or batteries) it's connected to, and if that voltage is lower than its setting, it will kick on, and start charging, typically at or above 13.8V, maybe 14.1. An idle, full battery will read closer to 13V. A 12V battery is actually dead if it gets down to 12V; anything running on 12V accepts all these voltages, and so these systems are considered to run on "12V nominal", which is a range including all these. Anyways, from the perspective of the alternator or house battery, there is less voltage present on the far end than from the near end, due to the voltage drop over distance in the wire. So, the house battery never sees full charging voltage from the alternator, and therefor may never fill all the way up. Measure voltage at the starter battery while the engine's on and alternator's charging, then measure it again at the house battery. The difference between these two is your voltage drop, which should be in the 1-3% range. More or less, this is how short of full you can get your house battery only charging from the alternator.
  
  If you choose a manual isolator, you will get the most charging output possible from your alternator, and you can throw the switch to "jump start" yourself if your starter battery should die, but you might forget to turn the switch one day, and accidentally drain your starter battery. I simply make checking the state of the switch part of my van start-up and shut-down routine, and have only had a problem once. If you instead go with an automatic isolator or VSR, you won't have to worry about this, but your charging rate will be limited by the rating of the device chosen, if its rating is below the alternator's rating.
  
  Your power distribution to your loads still needs additional fusing. If you use the dual-battery switch, most loads should come off the common lug, through a fuse, and on to the devices. If not, then connect them from the starter battery, through a fuse, and on to the devices. Many people install a fuse block with multiple fused circuits to go to various devices; it needs a fuse in its feed that is as large as all the other fuses combined.
  
  Wondering why I linked a triple-fuse holder? It's a neat sort of junction for the house battery's positive terminal, where everything connecting needs fused anyway, and these particular fuses can need to be quite large, though different sizes. 100A alternator charge, 50A+ load distribution, 30A+ solar charge, or the big ol' honkin inverter I tend to install on my builds.
  
  

>Any chance you could be more specific on the dupont connectors required?

You'll need 4 pin dupont housings and dupont female connectors and a crimper for them. That's assuming you have something to strip the wires as well. You can find the dupont female pins and housings cheaper places like aliexpress, ebay, etc.. but I recommend buying a quality crimper instead of whatever is the cheapest you can find as a quality tool will make the job a lot easier. If you're really strapped for cash, there's video's of people crimping dupont connectors with pliers online instead of the crimp tool.

>So <motor><cA> => <cB><cable><cC> => <cD><RAMPS board>

The wires transfer over to the same place from melzi to ramps, and pretty much any board. You'll have a X endstop, y endstop, z endstop, then connectors for the X motor Y motor Z motor and extruder motor, and so on and so forth. A ramps guide will help you visualize what to connect where.

>Any idea how big a cable for the power?

IIRC, the stock wires at 18ga, which is fine for the ramps board since it only draws 5A for all the motors, hotend, etc. The only other larger gauge connectors are for the heatbed, which I believe are also stock 18GA. FWIW, I'd go with a external mosfet instead of using the ramps on board ones which are rated for 11A, which is just within spec of what the bed draws.

Crimps are basically always the better method. There isn't a application they don't work for when connecting two wires. There are applications solder is unsuitable for. Crimps are easily repeatable with little to no training. Solder is virtually impossible to guarantee repeatable quality even with training.

To be able to solder or crimp virtually any standard connection in this hobby goth take between $50 and $100 in tools. Both require consumable parts or materials.

There are situations where one or the other physically can't be used and that's a good reason to be able to do both.

If you're asking which is the "best" way to go on average it's always crimping. If I could only afford tools for one or the other, I'd have crimping tools.

People act like crimping tools have to cost hundreds of dollars. These people are uninformed or intentionally wrong. A TemCo hammer crimper handles 8ga to 4/0ga and costs $20. Handheld ratchet crimpers that will hand all your smaller wires are $20 for acceptable ones. And that's all you have to have to get by and a hobbyist or even starting installer, though I'd highly suggest hydraulic crimpers for large gauge wires as a installer for the time savings in being able to install terminals in the car rather than on a bench.

Klein ratchet crimper

TemCo hammer crimper

At the end of the day, both will accomplish the goal of connecting two wires or attaching a terminal. You can choose either when both will work but the "according to Hoyle" better method is crimping.

You should not ever solder large gauge wires. This is a issue of reliability due to embrittling the heavy wire and the vibration as well as the very high chance of improper cleaning of the wire and flux entrapment leading to corrosion from the inside out.

Final point, NASA says crimps are bueno. NASA is smarter than you.

> SGD155BR

That seems to be a specific tool designed for you marine guys. That's out of my field, I'm not going to google chase for anything like it.

>PWCS7CF

I now see we're playing your game haha. It's a rather wierd breed of stripper.crimpers. Nonetheless, OTC makes a pair like them for $18 on Amazon. Lifetime warranty. They also make a angled version you might be intrested in. SnapOn doesn't list this on their website anymore, but the PWCS7CF sells for ~$60 online. So, The OTC are $42 cheaper.


>TLL72

Craftsman, but still good enough to make money with. SnapOn MSRP is $111. That Gearwrench is $26. $85 in savings by going Gearwrench.

> 137ACF



Easy enough . SnapOn MSRP is $41. The Klein one is $16 with lifetime warranty. Savings of $25


>29ACF

Easy enough. SnapOn MSRP $62. Klein tool is $30 with lifetime warranty. Savings of $32.

Between the 4 tools I compared, the other options saved a total of $184. Same quality as SnapOn? Maybe not on all, but probably yes to some. All of them come with life-time warranty, and not not shit tools and are considered /r/buyitforlife items!

What you're looking for is called a "fish tape".

You can use that to push through the walls (you're lucky there's already an open area for conduit and you don't have to drill holes or fight your way through insulation.) Start from the opposite end of where you want to pull the cable through, and push the tape down until you think you can reach in and grab it from the other side, then go do that and hook the cable over the end of the tape and, uh... tape it down smoothly... then just pull the tape back through from where you started.

You might want to consider buying some of that cheap fiberglass string stuff (whose name escapes me at the moment) and running it alongside the cables. It's used for when you want to run another wire along the same conduit: you tie it down on either side after you're done running one line, then later on you can come back and easily attach to it and pull a new line (with a second piece of string to bring it back, of course.)

Don't get Cat5, though. Get Cat5E, at least, or preferably Cat6 (which is the same speed, but handles bends/interference better). You may not care about gigabit speeds now, but whenever you do, you definitely won't regret having spent the few extra dollars on higher-capacity cables.

If you want to make cables and not just go from wall-jack to wall-jack, then you'll also need a crimping tool to put the (also Cat5E or Cat6) tips on in this order, but wall-jacks often have big, easy, color-coded connectors that you won't need the crimper for. Triple-check your connections, though. You don't want to spend hours trouble-shooting later only to realize, "Oh, I put the STRIPED orange wire in the SOLID orange slot! Silly me!"

Good luck. It's easier than you might think... just possibly a bit dirty and/or frustrating if you can't get your tape where you want it to go. :/

Okay so technically you can run 100 Base-T on 4 wires, but I've never tried it personally. Anyway, if you get yourself a crimper and some RJ-45's then you could give it a shot. Pins 1,2,3, and 6 are what you need to land, just make sure both ends are the same color wise and that the crimp is good and tight and it might just work, but keep in mind it might not so don't count on it for sure.

There is, of course, good and bad to these, price being a big one if you do the work a lot. You can get 1k connectors for 19.95, or 100 of the pass thru for, well, a lot more. I'm sure they can be had for cheaper but I doubt it gets down even close the the price of standard ones.

The tool it's self can be had for $26 bucks, $7 for the standard one(non pass thru).


Not to mention I hate seeing the exposed metal at the end of these things lol.

But all in all it's a good way to go if you only terminate ends once in a great while.

Personally I've been doing this for so long the pass thrus would only slow me down as I know my tool so well I can do it with my eyes closed.

But some day some genius is going to figure out a way for you to just jam the end of the wire into a handheld tool and it will do it all for you.

sort of like when nail guns first came out, and as they got cheaper and the nails for the gun gets cheaper you will eventually see em everywhere. lol

It really always comes down to man hours, does this tool save more man hours than it costs.

Dupont connectors, fittings, crimper:

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-Dupont-Jumper-Female-Connector/dp/B00CGWVFWW/

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-100PCS-Dupont-Jumper-Connector/dp/B00CGWUV6S/

http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Insulated/dp/B00DHCRVSC/

http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Store-2-54mm-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CO86Z6Y/

http://www.amazon.com/Sunkee-100pcs-Dupont-Connector-Housing/dp/B00CGXOVM2/

Wire:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHQ24/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HGHQ2O/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Exact products i bought. Didn't need the crimper exactly (could just use needle nose pliers), and the insulation on this wire is a little thick for the connectors (doesnt' quite fit into the black connectors when crimped around the insulation, but i wanted the heaviest gauge i could fit, 24 would probably fit better)

Some of the items shipped prime, some shipped from china, so 2 day shipping on the male connectors, and a month on the female. :-p

When looking to attach to a board make sure to measure the pitch, 2.54 is fairly standard, but there's always someone who uses 2mm or something else.

That is a JST connector.

Since this is a gimbal and timing is super important, Id recommend clipping all 4 wires to the same length and re crimp all the connections.
I HIGHLY recommend doing a bunch of test crimps before re crimping those to make sure you do those right.

JST Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-JST-XHP-Connector-housing-Adapter/dp/B01MCZE2HM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1491418207&sr=8-8&keywords=4+pin+jst

JST Crimping tool: https://www.amazon.com/Iwiss-XH2-54mm-Terminals-SN-01BM-0-08-0-5mm2/dp/B00YGLKBSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491418309&sr=8-1&keywords=JST+Crimping+tool

How to Crimp JST Pins: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-pTsccCizA

Just buy a GOOD crimping tool. Channel lock makes one. It has a tit that pressed a divot into the crimp. Make sure the tit goes in on the opposite side of the seam in your butt connector. After every splice try as hard as you can to rip it apart.

Bonus points for heat shrink style butt connectors. In exterior applications it may make a tiny hole in the side of the heat shrink jacket so after shrinking put a dab of dow corning7 732/733 in there. Never use DAP, it's highly corrosive

Using non insulated butt connectors and shrink tube with this tool is the best non solder connection money can buy.

https://www.amazon.ca/Channellock-909-Crimping-Tool-Cutter/dp/B00004SBDI

So your looking for something like THESE or THESE

I have both of these crimpers. The T&B's are my current go to's and i gave my Kleins to an apprentice, but they served me well for 15 years and still crimp as good as the day i bought them. The T&B 112(what i use) does insulated and non-insulated crimps and the 111 is non insulated only

Channellock also makes a very similar good quality crimper for a little cheaper.

ETA- Heres the channellocks

Just a crimping tool and you’re good to go.

Spend a little more and buy a good one, you’ll thank me.

I have this one and it’s great: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP8QYXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_czBSCbM4YTKY1

Earlier this year I got myself the Ideal 30-495 FT-45 Feed-Thru Mod Plug crimp tool. Such a time saver.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VLDWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_09rQDbJM27GKP

As an added bonus it fits perfectly in the slot for the punch-down tool in my Fluke Pro-Tool kit (I usually know which I'll need before going up the ladder)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_PcsQDbMDSB16B

1. It wouldn't be permitted to wire it this way in new construction.
   
2. Yes
   
3. Yes
   
   Here is what I would do. The grounds in the box are all tied together with a [copper crimp] (https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Twist-Copper-Sleeve-Connector-Blister/dp/B00CTU6TI6). You can get those at any home improvement store's electrical aisle. I would leave the grounds like they are, and crimp on an additional single ground wire to the existing group. Use that new wire to connect between all of the switch grounds.
   
   Edit: Also, make sure to use a proper crimper for the sleeve - don't use a regular pair of pliers or something.

Its easy! Buy this cheap wire crimp kit.

Take off the driver door kick plate (should just pop up, they are usually held in with Jesus clips). Then you pull the rubber trim off from the kick plate to the head liner. Install your dash cam. Then hook the USB mini-b end of the 12v adapter to the dash cam. Tuck the wire up along the top of the head liner. Carefully feed the wire under the top of the trim in the a pillar. Then carefully lift the side of the a pillar trim and continue running the wire down the inside lip until you reach the bottom of the trim. Be careful as the side curtain airbags are in the pillar. Using a soft piece of plastic, pry off the side panel of the dash, this will be held on with more Jesus clips. This will allow you to run the wire under the dash and into the fuse box.

Use a red butt connector to crimp the add a circuit lead to the red wire on the 12v adapter. Then crimp a red ring terminal to the black wire on the 12v adapter. There should be a bolt under the side panel that you took off, take that off and put it through the ring terminal and then reattach. This is your ground point. If there is paint under where the bolt was, scrape it off so you can get a good ground.

Find a 10a fuse in your fuse panel, pull that out and put the add a circuit in that spot filling the blank spot on the add a circuit with the fuse you removed.

Turn your car to on (do not start) and you should see your dash cam fire up! Now look for any sharp points along the way that the wire could rub on and wrap them with some electrical tape and button things back up!

Should take you < 20 minutes.

Here is a video I made demoing my NC Nexus 7 install. It is very basic now. I wanted to see how little I need to get audio working. It isw working better that I expected. Let me know what you think or if you have any questions.

Edit 1:
Parts and pricing(includes shipping) list:

• 2(you only need 1) of these 12v to 5v converter - ~$13 for 2
  
• 1 Right angle OTG cable- $5.75
  
• 1 Male to Male USB cable - $5.00
  
• 1 Metra Din Kit - $21.12
  
• 1 Right angle AUX Cable - $10.43
  
• 1 Female to Female aux coupler - $4.33
  
• 1 Male aux to female RCA cable - $4.50
  
• 1 Male RCA to speaker wire cable - $9.36
  
• 1 Metra wiring harness - $13.37
  
• 1 Pack Command hooks - $9.00
  
• 1 Anti-glare screen protector - $5.95
  
  Total: $88.81 + the cost of a Nexus (2012) which is about $150-$180 depending on which configuration you get. (Note: Timur's ROM only works with Nexus 7 2012)
  
  So $238-$268 grand total.
  
  I also bought a wire stripping and crimping kit - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K7GRCI/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  And a Dremel for cutting the metra bezel and the command hooks
  
  
  I also rooted my Nexus 7 and installed Timur's rom. That was a headache and not needed because you can duplicate the functionality by using Tasker, a Nexus 7 task scheduling app. But to install Timur's ROM basically you need to unlock the bootloader, install TWRP recovery, then install Timur's USB Host ROM. That ROM gives you the ability to plug USB devices like thumb drives into the Nexus 7. It also gives you the option to put the tablet into deep sleep when you turn your car off.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Crimper


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

True, but all you need are crimper pliers which are pretty cheap if you go with one like this. For somebody who doesn't crimp cables for a living it'll get the job done.

https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Sorento-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL50TA

as others have mentioned, you need to splice whatever connector harness comes with the new radio to the wiring harness linked above. The best way to do this is to individually solder each connection and insulate with heat shrinkable tubing, the second best way is with some 'butt' connectors and a crimping tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50413A-Insulated-Connectors-Assortment/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486664654&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+crimping+kit

The PA on this belt changes it from a POS imitator into something really secure. Most belts like this you have to wear so tight it's uncomfortable, otherwise you can just slip right out. But with the PA attachment at the end of the tube you are unable to escape at all. So I wear it a bit looser and it's much more comfortable.

Properly adjusted this belt is the most secure thing I've found. Pull out is impossible. I've tried everything to cum and it's all useless. Removing the belt without a key is as close to impossible as it gets. Sure, I could cut the belt off, but the penis would still be secure inside the tube. The steel is really hard. I tried to increase the size of one of the urination holes and ended up dulling drill bits even on a drill press with drilling oil. I've worn it for full month long periods with no problems. Currently I'm working my way through a 365 day sentence.

To keep it clean I shower 3-4 times per week. I use a detachable hand held shower head sprayer to shoot water up into all the cracks and holes. When I sit to pee I use a small 100ml plastic irrigation syringe with water to squirt into the penis tube. This flushes out the urine and keeps it clean. Once a month my wife restrains me to the bondage table and removes it for inspection. Every time, the penis has come out looking clean and happy with no issues. If I've been good she might decide to play with it before putting it away and releasing me. The key is kept in a portable realtor lock box with 5 digit code.

I just looked back through my photos all the way to when I bought the belt in January of 2017 and don't see any pics that show the tube open. It seems that any time it's open my hands are restrained so I can't touch anything down there; And thus no pics... Sorry. I will ask my wife to take a few next time she opens it for an inspection.

I replaced the stock chain with titanium rings from The Ring Lord. I can't seem to find the link to the place where I got the replacement lock. I think the size is 3/8" length, 7/16" diameter, 1" long cam.

Getting the size of the belt correct took several months of adjusting and wearing to determine the right size. The waist belt is very adjustable but is kind of thin metal. Someday that will get replaced. Once I got it the right size, I stopped using the provided silicone liner which sucked because it wouldn't stay on. I was using E-tape to hold it in place. Now it's held on by heat shrink tubing. I shrunk it down by putting the whole belt in the oven at minimum temp. All of the bolts have been replaced with 3/16" stainless rivets which are more durable. I couldn't find them anywhere but my local ACE Hardware. Neither Lowes nor Home Depot had Stainless.

The cable between the legs makes it really convenient for defecation. Just pull it to one side as I sit and there's no mess. The original cable was kind of thin and broke right at the end after a month of constant wear. I upgraded to a heavier duty cable with Stainless Steel Aircraft Wire Rope Swage Eye Terminals. I had to buy a 10 ton terminal crimper to make that connection permanent. The eye ends of the swage eyes have been ground down by an angle grinder to make them thinner, and then a stainless washer helps the rivet grab onto the material.

OP, if you decide to go with the RJ-45 crimping, look into EZ Crimp, also known as pass-through. It's a lot easier.

Amazon: RJ45 Professional Heavy Duty Crimp Tool by Platinum Connector for pass through Internet network connector

Also, ask a geek wherever you work. For a beer they might be extremely helpful.

Crimper:
Fluke Networks 11212530 Modular Crimper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5VAXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oK1TDbHF8JB1F

Combo kit with stripper, lineman's snips and punchdown tool:
Fluke Networks 11293000 Pro-Tool Kit IS60 with Punch Down Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sL1TDbK5ZHW73

I've had my Fluke tools for years. Dropped, lost, dropped again and have never had an issue

Klein Tools is also a great brand for low-volt/Telecom tools

Edit: ideally, you should really never be crimping ends for production use. Horizontal cabling should never terminate with RJ45 modular plugs and instead terminate to keystone jacks on both ends of the run and patching should be done on both sides with high quality pre-made patch cords. You’ll save yourself a ton of heartburn this way.

Thanks! I believe I own some tin snips, but they don't have any mechanism for extra leverage. Do you recommend anything special for cutting this type of snap-lock ducting?

Are there any other tools I might need? I have a bucket of mastic from when I tried painting the junctions of my flex ducting at the distribution boxes, or whatever you call them.

Will this crimper do the trick? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZDY8DC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

My current favorite is probably THIS OTC crimper/cutter/stripper. I was about to buy Snap-on's version that looks similar but doesn't have the angled crimper (and costs twice as much), but that angled head sealed it for me. It's super useful under dashes and in other tight spaces.

THIS guy is the most versatile with all the dies. The ratchet tension is adjustable; really solid crimps. It's just not very mobile which is a problem for me working in marine. I'm kinda limited to what I can carry with me into a boat, so the less I have to get out and walk to my box, the more labor hours and I can bust out.

The automatic wire stripper is awesome. It stays in my box most of the time, but I take it out if I'm doing a harness repair or something. Strips crazy fast and you can do multiple wires at a time. Huge time saver when you're messing with a lot of wires.

The others are varying degrees of shitty.

cat 6 https://www.amazon.com/Dripstone-600004-Solid-Network-Ethernet/dp/B010OU6BV2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543363178&sr=1-3&keywords=1000+feet+ethernet

cat 5e https://www.amazon.com/Dripstone-600001-1000ft-Ethernet-Network/dp/B00QJFA0VE/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543363178&sr=1-12&keywords=1000+feet+ethernet

i've used the cat 5e myself for a project and it works just fine.. make sure you get a tester, a nice pair of crimpers, and the ends as well. here's my tester https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8130 and my crimpers https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-11212530-Modular-Crimper/dp/B000E5VAXW

Any ratchet style crimper would be best. The good ones allow you to set tension. Fluke or Klein. Edit Links.

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluke-Networks-11212530-Modular-Crimper/dp/B000E5VAXW

https://www.amazon.ca/VDV226-011-SEN-Ratcheting-Modular-Crimper-Stripper/dp/B002D3B97U

Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable

You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.

The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.

GeeBat 460pcs 2.54mm JST-XHP JST Connector Kit with 2.54mm Female Pin Header, JST-PH 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 /6 Pin housing Connector Adapter Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCZE2HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_itnWAbBEMEXWT. These are the connectors you'll also need a crimper. You can buy the Amazon recommend crimper, or look for Engineer Pa-09 if you want something nicer.

I have these for crimping dupont connectors IWISS SN-28B. They work pretty good, my only complaint is that with thicker wires they don't compress the insulation enough to smoothly fit into the connector, so I have to touch it up with needle nose.

I think these are the IWISS version for the JST-XH connectors [IWISS SN-01BM] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ARWWFY). Maybe I'll pick those up.

Here's what I have found handy around the house:

• Diagonal cutters
  
• Punch Down tool
  
• Cable Tester. Though, they do have a version that also has a tone generator.
  
• I just got this RJ45 crimper but I am not sure that I like the pass through plugs. Hard to keep the wires in order when putting them into the plug. I still have my old RJ45/RJ11 crimper as a fallback.
  
• Stripping tool. I use this to remove the cable jackets, but it also comes in handy for terminating coax cables.
  
  I think the odds of me crimping RJ11/RJ12 are pretty slim, so I don't worry about that ability.

I don't doubt it to much. I had an old clipper for modem lines, you pinched and pulled the wire coating off and just slide the plastic end over it.
https://www.amazon.com/Champper-Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers/dp/B0055EXMII

It makes perfect sense you can cut into it sideways and connect to the end without having to fully rip the plastic off. But I honestly don't know why you would buy it, people I know have had more issues with the end than the cable.

The aircraft connecters:
8 pin
4 pin
10 pin (didn't end up using)
JST connectors

Wiring:
24ga silcone
16ga silicone


The aircraft connectors come in packs of 5 pairs (female/male), and I only ended up using 2 for now, but I have another printer coming that I want to enclose, so I'll probably use them there. The JST connectors you can use just crimpers to attach one end, other is soldered. I put shrink wrap tubing around all exposed metal, and in addition, I put them in the whole bundle in some nylon wrap i had laying around, but easy enough to find.

Ah, I guess that works. Definitely recommend buying [DuPont connectors] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N3JK4T1/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1486580973&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=crimp+dupont+-jst) and a tool

1. use Cat6 or Cat6a, it's not that much more expensive
   
2. HGHJFKLDSGLKDSJFDSLKJFSDLK $1200! wow
   
   ​
   
   You could seriously just buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Waterproof-Underground-VIVO-CABLE-V014/dp/B01E7GEZEE/
   
   https://www.amazon.com/ITBEBE-Plated-Through-premium-Connectors/dp/B073ZM2VBK/
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers-Tools/dp/B00426HLQO/
   
   
   
   
   run it outside and then crimp the edges.
   
   
   I didn't pick the best tools or items, these were half-arsed searched. It's WAY WAY WAY less than $1200.
   
   
   Another alternative - drill through the floor/ceiling and run at a corner or in a closet.

The little white connectors are JST-XHP connectors... if you get those + the proper crimping tool you can make your cables to length... These are good to about 3 amps at max... I wouldn't run them past 2 amps

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4

You need to use something like this for the bed heater wiring ...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q

and either run the wire without a connector in the middle or use these - they solder on, NOT crimp... I would run the wires direct and eliminate the connector.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2

I looked all this up and got most of it because I extended the wires on a Tevo Tornado which uses the MKS Gen L board.

I'm not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but this is what I use. These are for PCB mounting though, and not in-line.

Connectors & Housing

Crimp Terminal

Crimper

You don't necessarily need the crimper, I started off just bending them with a needle nose plyers, but save yourself the headache and buy the crimper.

I bought this crimper and it works great on JST:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK

AFTER I bought it, I found THIS one:

https://smile.amazon.com/Crimping-0-08-1-0-18-28AWG-Ratcheting-Connector/dp/B01N1RFZZ4

Which does JST and many more than the first. Grrrr.

PuterPro

Swaged (pressed) cable terminal (shoe)

It should be noted that this is the incorrect way of doing this. It might work ok for an electrical terminal, but it wouldn't have much strength and this should not be used in load-bearing application. A properly swaged terminal should have 100% of the strength of the cable.

Edit- if it's for a battery terminal, crimped lug would also be a correct term. This is the tool for putting those on

Klein makes a pass-thru crimper that has the diagrams displayed on the side. Had one for modifying my father’s POE lines for his phones and cameras. Was a godsend.

https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Thru-Reliable-Klein-Tools-VDV226-110/dp/B076MGPQZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=klein+pass+through+rj45+crimper&qid=1569184398&s=gateway&sprefix=klein+pass+&sr=8-3

I use this one... $20.
Have crimped hundreds of ends with it. Only issue is after squeezing to crimp, need to be careful removing the pin as it sometimes is a little stuck in the groove... but a gentle wiggle and it comes right out.
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Terminal-0-1-1-0mm-AWG28-18-connector/dp/B017JU20Z6

I found this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N1RFZZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A3E5YDYCEXB5C3&psc=1

Pretty cheap right? Think it would work?

Id consider a mppt charger, I used bluesolar 100/30. A pure sine inverter. More solar. Cheap wire at lowes home depot down to 6 ga or use welder wire. Buy one of these for crimping wire lugs. Worth 15 or 20 dollars, nice crimp. https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0

If its metal, the elbow should have one crimped end which goes inside the connection at the box.
Like [this...]
(https://www.amazon.com/Duct-Elbow-Degree-Sheet-Metal/dp/B00BLUA936)


If it's not crimped, that's why it won't go on. You could create some crimps with a pair of needle nose pliers, or a 5-finger crimper, which is how its usually done in the field.
Sometimes, the crimp is not enough and the end still won't mate with another fitting. Usually, some further crimping over the existing crimp is necessary.

I have a several of them. I recently got one of these for pass through type connectors which I like. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGPQZQ. Note that as stated it is for pass through type connectors so you have to buy the right kind of connectors if you go that direction.

Also have one I got from monoprice as well as a punch-down tool, jacket stripper, network cable tester, etc. The monoprice crimper is sold out so no point in posting it. It was just a cheap $16 one but works fine.

Get yourself one of these kits:
Ferrule Crimping Tool Kit, Preciva AWG23-7 Self-adjustable Ratchet Wire Crimping Tool Kit Crimper Plier Set with 1200PCS Wire Terminals Crimping Connectors Wire End Ferrules https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TZ5BBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YMQIDb3FS93KX

Makes working with these phoenix connectors much cleaner and easier.

As others have said they are boot lace ferrules. Make sure you get them in the correct size for the cable you are using.

They range from about 0.35mm2 to up to 50mm2. Don't use wire cutters or pliers to try crimping them, it doesn't work. Different styles of crimping tools are available and can get a bit expensive for the professional tools. Something similar to these are useful:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073TZ5BBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UbX1DbQYHDSAY

Not recommending any as I personally don't like this style but for DIY the style is not bad.

The best way to connect it up so that you have Internet is to get a switch with enough ports to handle all of the jacks, and then wire patch cables coming off of each one of the cables going into that block. You will need a punch down tool ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a2sgzbNSBBEK7) a rj45 crimper (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5PT7G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R3sgzb0GCQ5SN) some rj45 connectors ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m5sgzb3KQHCC8) and some CAT5 cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034XBFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6sgzb9E3ZTQ4). You strip the wires on both sides. One side gets punched down onto the block (make sure that the colors match) and the other side is terminated with a rj45 connector (make sure that the cable is long enough to reach your switch!). Once they are all terminated, you plug them into the switch, and have your switch hooked up to your Internet modem, and then all of the jacks will have Internet access.

When I was asking about this for the ender 3 /u/robbob2112b gave a very detailed breakdown on what they had done.


> These are what I use on the tevo and when I put the e3dv6 on the ender I'll use them there too....

>I started them about 6 inches back up the wires from the hot end spaced them out so them aren't one big blob.... used different ones for different things so they can't be switched out and if for some reason a wire pulls loose it doesnt short anything... doing it I can swap out the hot end in minutes, do a PID tune and I'm off to the races.


>Connectors and max current rating

>Jst-sm for the fans and thermistor - 3amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTKD7P4/

>Mini Tamiya type b for the heater - 10 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSD9JJQ/

>Jst-xhp are the white connector for stepper motors - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7/

>Dupont for the black on the main board - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYPDGS/

>These for heated bed - up to 30 amps - solder only, not crimp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2/

>Crimpers - get the right ones for the pin type in the connectors you buy, you can't use just any old crimper or wing it with these tiny pins and get a good connection that doesn't come apart when things move for hours

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/


>Since I'm on the subject heated bed wires - large enough to carry the current and with the silicone cover and fine internal strands flexible enough to not break with movement

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q/r

At the minimum to replace the board, I'd say replace the board with a RAMPS, so either 35$ https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ or 30$ if you skip the LCD https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Controller-Mega2560-Compatible/dp/B01G6ON5H8/ (The maker select LCD doesn't work directly with the RAMPS without some modification)

Then you'll need a dupont crimping tool and some housing to redo some wires. For another 30$. You might be able to get away with using some pliers instead of a crimping tool.

Honestly I'd try seeing if you can get a replacement from wherever you bought it from first.

Are you pre-fabbing the cables or will you have to crimp them in place?

Impact crimpers actually work surprisingly well. I carried one for years to me out of jams where I didn't have a crimp kit on the truck.

That method is a lot of work. I would recommend a pass-thru ethernet crimper. I use this one with the pass-thru RJ45 connectors and it's a breeze.

Looks like a standard DuPont style crimped would work?


WayinTop Dupont Connector Crimping Tool Kit Crimper Plier 2.54mm Header Male Female Crimp Pins Terminals Housing 1 2 3 4 5 6 8 10 Pin and 40pin 1.27mm Ribbon Cable FC/IDC Jumper Wire 1M (Crimping Set)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JG8HVLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tBBSDbQ9S0Y5G

Something like this may work:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MCZE2HM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=3daddict-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01MCZE2HM&linkId=3bda1f6b184d0b6eecbff83fd40c84b4

18 for the heater wires.

Heater plugs are JST VH series.

https://www.amazon.com/JST-JAPAN-SOLDERLESS-TERMINALS-WIRE-BOARD/dp/B011CPHFLS/

Pins for the above plug

https://www.amazon.com/3-96mm-Connector.../dp/B00X772AXS/

 

All other plugs are JST XH series

https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-JST-XHP.../dp/B01MCZE2HM/

Look around before purchasing. Those above links are just meant to show the size/type you are looking for.

You can 24 or 26 gauge wire for the thermistor or if using a prewired thermistor just use that.

Look into using silicone jacketed high capacity stranded wire. R/C models often used that type because it is made to be very flexible and heat resistant.

 

Also check that all the wires are crimped properly. Sometimes a connector may only be crimped to barely make contact with the wire and may loosen over time.

https://imgur.com/a/8PnOt

Would this be okay?

https://www.amazon.ca/Preciva-0-25-10mm%C2%B2-Self-adjustable-Connector-Uninsulated/dp/B073TZ5BBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523432368&sr=8-2&keywords=ratchet+crimp+tool


After a quick google search for ratchet crimping tool. Im surprised klein doesnt have one, if you try that search you can look further into more results and possibly product videos.

If you don't care about it being "completely stock", just rewire the whole damn bike. It's pretty straight forward. That's what I did on my first project bike, you learn a lot by rewiring a bike from scratch. Go out and by some nylon sleeving, an assortment of 14g-18g multicolored wire, heat shrink, misc pack of electrical connectors. If you are somewhat mechanically/electrically inclined than by all means you should go for it. All you need to start is a soldering iron, multimeter, crimper/wire cutters, and a desire to learn. Shit man, its how I learned. Don't half ass it, and don't give up!

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/how-to-crimp-an-electrical-connector

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Solderless-Terminal-Connection-Stripper/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371692640&sr=8-1&keywords=electrical+connectors

I'm making custom power cables - 18 AWG PTFE insulated wire (much thinner than usual), no braided sleeves, laced together into a neat bundle with lacing cord.

I bought a few supplies for the job as i bought the case: the crimp contacts (Molex 39-00-0039), some wire (TE Connectivity 400R0111-18-9) and a pair of crimpers (IWISS sn-28b)

Oh, I hadn't considered a dupont crimping tool. I was looking at molex and JST and turned off by the cost of the tools. Being a newbie to electronics, I'm also turned off by the warnings about the cheap tools. Do you think the cheap dupont crimping tools are any good? I.e. this one

Yes that is a standard crimp connector. Just buy another one, strip the wire, and crimp it back on.

Measure the width of the connector. It is hard to tell how wide it is from the photo.

This set is probably overkill, but personally I can't get enough connectors and it comes with a (shitty) stripper/crimper if you don't have one.

You need the same number of pins as the balance lead has. I got a kit of miscellaneous connectors (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014YTPFT8) a while back and just use those. The crimping tool I use is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHCRVSC.

If the only thing you need to replace is the plastic housing, and all the crimped pins are still viable, then you can get the housings a number of ways. For example, I ordered these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W9LOM4I and only use the housings.

Might want to check out the Channellock 909. Same features but only $18.

I went with the Klein...did I blow it?

You need two things the ends and the crimps

I have this. Similar, but maybe just not quite as good...

Here ya go. Newer, updated model with a new handle. To my knowledge, all SN-28B crimpers are the same, coming out the same factory in Shenzen or wherever they are, just branded differently per company w/ different colored handles.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DHCRVSC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the crimper.

The wire is 18AWG 2mm

$5 is expensive?

I have the same board and I used these. You will also need a crimper for connecting the wires to the connector pins. https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-460pcs-Connector-Housing-Adapter/dp/B01MCZE2HM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2VG2X6V5SJDI2&keywords=jst+connector+kit&qid=1573612970&s=industrial&sprefix=jst%2Cindustrial%2C180&sr=1-3

Use this adapter

Dash kit

antenna adapter

Wire crimp set

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DQB3G8F11XRFHY09Y57W

I use something similar on SB175s and 4AWG wire

These are JST-XH Connectors. I perfer the crimp kits rather than splicing premaid connectors, but you could go either route.

Crimp tool

This - https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Thru-Reliable-Klein-Tools-VDV226-110/dp/B076MGPQZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=1YBDCDMX0GQKB&keywords=cat6+termination+kit&qid=1550631864&s=gateway&sprefix=cat+6+term&sr=8-2

With the pass through rj45 termination jacks

> JST-PH

this should suffice

A simple crimper is cheaper and will give you more repeatable and reliable results than a vise. That one's made in 'murricah, and it's probably cheaper than the vise.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1UUVT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CUj8AbWK7YEM0

I would invest in one of these, instead of cables.

http://www.amazon.com/Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers-Tools/dp/B0055EXMII/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-2&keywords=RJ45+crimp+tool

Cut out the damaged portion (pay attention to any wire markings or make your own if none are present) restrip the wire but stager the lengths​ so that the splices aren't all in one area. Install the splices then wrap in a self adhering silicone tape. When using the tape start 1 inch past where the insulation starts, wrap with 50% overlap until you reach 1 inch on to the insulation across the repaired area. The wrap should be tight and the first and last wrap sould be perpendicular to the repaired wire.

Edit: required supplies...

Splices with Crimper Tool

Silicone Tape

Quick Guide

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

You need to identify a leak or other cause of the corrosion.

Use some sharp scissors, Cut that wire back an inch or so and see if the corrosion is that far back. Might need to get a length of wire to replace it if it's that bad. Attach the pieces using butt connectors. (Only crimp to copper that is not corroded obviously)

Go buy a tool something like this (auto part store or home store) those crimpers are not great but cheap if you will only use it once a year and they come with the terminals.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50413A-Insulated-Connectors-Assortment/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=crimp+tool+kit&qid=1573491705&sr=8-14

I have all the crimping tools mentioned here and more. I am not kidding, it is my life. General purpose overall I prefer the Klein 1005 as mentioned by u/myself248 BUT I own the Chanel Lock 909 version. They are damn near the same tool but Klein charges a premium price. Channel lock is made in the USA!

You can just cut the cable before the RJ-45 port and replace it. No soldering needed for this job.

Grab one of these: https://www.amazon.com/OrangeTag-Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers/dp/B0055EXMII

And some RJ-45 ends: https://www.amazon.com/Generic-006104-Crystal-Network-Connector/dp/B008ZZ1NH6/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PTN1BNNRBHQ24TWE3NWK

And cut before the bad RJ-45 and then crimp the cables into your new RJ-45 piece. Follow the diagram for "T-568B Straight-Through Ethernet Cable" for the wiring order: http://www.incentre.net/tech-support/other-support/ethernet-cable-color-coding-diagram/

It's all easier than it sounds. Let me know if you have questions.

As cougar618 already mentioned, you will need to remove the old stereo anyway to install any sort of auxiliary port. As such, do not bother messing with it. Get a new head unit.

You can get this Pioneer headunit for $100 from Amazon. Then you will need a mounting kit and a harness adapter. The harness adapter AND the stereo harness that will come with the headunit, are labeled on each wire. Connect all the matching wires, and leave the rest alone. Plug the antenna wire into the headunit, and then install new stereo into hole.

edit//Forgot something. Since you're a n00b, go to the local Autozone/parts store/Radioshack and get one of these. It has some very basic electrical things that you will want to use to make sure you get good connections from the wires. Twisting them together and covering with tape is a bad idea. They don't hold up very well. Use the butt connectors that crimp on both sides where each of the wires come into the connector. This will be a pretty permanent solution, but you will have no worries of it coming loose.

You need to connect it to the main outputs, not the balance plugs. You can wire it directly to a pair of banana plugs, or a Deans plug if your charger came with the banana-to-deans cord that every other cord plugs into. You can use a 2S balance lead for the other end, (you can get rid of the center wire, you won't need it) or buy some JST-XH plugs and crimp up your own. (You can use pliers, but you really want to get a proper crimping tool for those.) If you wire it backwards, the charger will give you an error message, so it's not the end of the world if you get it wrong, just swap them. As I recall, NiMH packs are supposed to be charged slowly, 0.3C or so, but you should double check me on that, I've never manually charged one before.

Or you could use the NiMH charger built into your Taranis. That's an option too. :) I guess the QX7 doesn't have a charger? TIL.

Invest in some of these, one of these, some self tapping screws, and some ring terminals.

Since your later comment says you've had it this way for 7 months, you need to know this kind of laziness is bound to cause problems. Problems such as blown fuses, intermittent operation, noise heard from the speakers, and possibly a fire. Do you know how it feels to have your car start on fire due to an electrical fault? I do, and it's the worst feeling.