(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best dog supplies

I'm not entirely sure why the cooing at toys would work. I feel like this is just anthropomorphizing the toy and your dog's "understanding" of the situation. If it is actually working for you, it's probably the fact that you are taking away the toy from her, letting her settle, and then returning it when her energy level/fixation are more in check. The "gentle" cue is definitely nice to teach, but it is probably working due to your addition/subtraction of reinforcer. That being said, "gentle" is a tough thing to teach some high energy dogs so props to you.

Also, the exercise thing is a great point. If you exhaust your pup with a good run or hour at the park they will be far less destructive in the house. Physical stimulation and mental stimulation need to go hand in hand, and one should not replace the other.

Just a point to bring up: if your (OP's) dog is chewing things like wires, socks, etc. he probably has a lot of opportunity to do so. How are you managing his environment - supervision levels, puppy-proofing, movement throughout the house, restriction when unsupervised (crating), etc? You need to minimize or eliminate as many possibilities for your dog to "mess up" as possible and set them up for success. For example, make sure he is in "puppy proofed" rooms with all foreign objects picked up off the floor and is provided with appropriate outlets for his energy (Kongs, stuffed bones, etc). A six month old puppy probably should not have free run of the house just yet, especially since he is most likely still teething and is still learning appropriate outlets for chewing. Slowly increase his freedom once he has learned these things. Start by keeping him in one or two rooms, gated off, and slowly increase his freedom once he learns more appropriate behaviors and has matured a bit more. Am I suggesting condemning your dog to a room for life? Absolutely not. You just have to manage his environment as much as possible and eliminate possibilities for him to fail.

It would also be worth investing in some brain toys to drain more energy, such as Wobble Kongs, Busy Buddy feeders, Buster Food Cubes, etc. In fact, feeding his meals exclusively out of these toys rather than a bowl would be a great opportunity to mentally stimulate him and drain more energy. Just make sure you supervise him as some of these toys could definitely be torn up if left unattended.

Just some food for thought. Hope you found this helpful! :)

Edit: Some products I've found helpful.

Brain toys for feeding:

• Kong Wobbler for meal times. Pretty durable and my guy can't figure out how to open it. Loves eating out of this thing, even if it was simple for him to figure out. My lab took weeks to get it though. Regardless, great brain-toy.
  
  
• Buster food cube for dispensing. Pretty difficult to figure out.
  
  
• Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble egg: My guys LOVE this, although the plastic just cracked on the inside after a few months. Can definitely be torn apart if left alone but super stimulating and engaging. Worth it!
  
  
• Tug a Jug for keeping them busy when you need to do something else. Durable bottle that gets scratched up. Ours is a few months in and still kicking.
  
  Chew toys:
  
  
• Kong XL for stuffing with RB, wet food, boiled chicken, etc. Strong than the regular red Kongs. Can also be frozen which increases the difficulty and time needed to get the food inside. have several I rotate out and they are basically the same shape as the day I bought them, which is impressive as my pup is a monster chewer.
  
  
• Filled thigh bones are pretty nice. They last as a while and can be rinsed and restuffed if the bone is still in good shape. Watch out, though - some brands are more prone to cracking and splintering while others last for ever. Trial and error basis. I can't remember the brand I use that works well but it's carried at my local Farmer Supply store (I find the bones and toys at these places to generally be better quality and also cheaper than chain pet stores).
  
  
• Meaty thigh bones are marrow filled and still have some "meat" on the exterior. They tend to last longer than the washed filled variety (above) and are "stinkier" and (I would imagine?) tastier. My guys prefer these to the plain bones since there are more goodies to get at. Downside is that they are a little stinkier at first and can possibly leave a mess, so make sure the dog is eating it on a towel.
  
  
• Bully sticks! Make sure they are real beef tendons though. Many companies make pressed rawhide varieties to resemble the real tendons but rawhide is, IMO, less safe for dogs. Last a while and smell like bacon but made my stomach a little queasy. Dogs go nuts for them though.
  
  
• Jolly Ball - not necessarily a chew toy but lasts a long time. Their teeth can penetrate the ball but the design is such that the ball doesn't pop. I had the variety with the rope that went through the center. The rope came off pretty quickly but the ball itself is still kicking. It is challenging to pick it up when playing fetch so he is less interested in tearing it to pieces than retrieving. It's poked through with holes but is the only ball that has lasted this long. Still going. Maybe worth checking out.

Oh Lordy I have a ton...I'll try to categorize them...

Best for Puppies
These are all easy toys that dispense a lot of kibble with very little movement. Perfect for baby puppies or really low-confidence dogs. These can also be upgraded in difficulty later by stuffing them with wet food and freezing, or stuffing with a large, hard to extract treat (like a slice of lunchmeat).

• PetSafe Busy Buddy Twist 'n Treat...total pain in the ass to fill if you put more than half a cup of food in it, but it's a great "intro to puzzle toys" for a dog that has never had to work for food before. Also very easy to clean.
  
• Soda Pup Coffee Cup...representative of a whole genre of "rubber toys with large holes" that make great easy kibble toys or challenging stuff and freeze toys. Some other toys in this genre are the Kong and the West Paw Toppl. I like the Soda Pup ones best because they have higher capacity and a flat bottom.
  
• Planet Dog Orbee Tuff Snoop...pretty easy by itself with kibble, can be made more challenging by stuffing a Mazee ball in the large hole.
  
• Plastic Milk Jug...or a water bottle, raid your recycling bin. You'll have to supervise to make sure your puppy doesn't shred and eat the jug, but it's a relatively easy and fun (and free) enrichment item. Another puzzle toy you may find in your recycling bin is a cardboard box filled with paper balls. Sprinkle some treats in the box, fill with the balls, and let your dog forage around in your DIY ball pit.
  
  Easy Rollers
  These basically just dispense kibble by rolling. Not particularly complex, but good for the dog that prefers to solve puzzles by brute force.
  
  
• IQ Treat Ball...this toy takes the longest to empty out of all my toys, but it is way too freaking small and loud as hell on my hardwood at 6am. Really easy to fill and clean though, as it comes completely apart.
  
• Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball...a lot quieter but it empties faster and isn't as easy to fill (or clean).
  
• Kruuse Buster Cube...this one is also ungodly loud, but it takes a good while to empty despite the fairly consistent payoff per roll. It's a cube (but they also make a spherical one) and the insides have a few baffles to keep kibble from just falling out.
  
  Wobblers
  These require a more finessed rolling motion to empty, so they're the next step up from just batting a toy around.
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble...more of a wobbler/roller hybrid. Surprisingly time-consuming for how huge the holes are, and it gets an A+ for filling and cleaning. Unfortunately my GSD knows how to unscrew it, so it's not much of a challenge for him.
  
• Starmark Bob-A-Lot...lots of ways to adjust the difficulty on this one, which is nice. I had a foster chew the yellow piece off of mine, but it still works well.
  
• Kong Wobbler...pretty standard toy, I actually do not have one of these but I know a lot of people that like them. They're available at big box pet stores which is nice.
  
• Nina Ottosson Pyramid...very similar to the Kong Wobbler, but the hole is in a more difficult location. Good toy but the bottom could use more counterweighting for the wobble action.
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Magic Mushroom...really good wobble action, but for some reason it's common for dogs to try and chuck this one down the stairs and break it. I've heard of a few dogs doing this, including my GSD. I have no idea what about this toy screams "fling me down the stairs!"
  
  Complex Action Toys
  These need movement in more than one direction (or very specific movement) to get kibble out of, which makes them pretty challenging.
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Tug-a-Jug...this toy is hard to learn but easy to master. Once your dog figures out the mechanism it doesn't last long. Also that rope gets SUPER GROSS.
  
• Nina Ottosson Board Games...I don't personally have any of these because my dogs cannot be trusted with small parts, but I've heard people say good things about them.
  
• Trixie Mad Scientist...this toy is cool because the dog has to learn to spin the tubes slowly or centripetal acceleration holds the food in. Good exercise in impulse control. I had a DIY one for awhile but my dogs decided to brute force this toy.
  
  Soothing, Low Energy Toys
  Along with the stuff n' freeze toys, these are good for dogs on crate rest or who need some extra help relaxing before bed.
  
  
• Snuffle Mat...great toy for activating a dog's foraging instincts and calming their minds. This is a good DIY project, or you can get extra lazy and chuck a bunch of food into the grass for nature's puzzle toy.
  
• HyperPet Lickimat...my cats eat their wet food from the orange kind ("buddy"), and my dogs use the green kind ("soother") with some PB or cheese as a distraction during grooming. You can spread a thin layer of something tasty on them and freeze for a long-lasting treat that promotes the calming behavior of licking.
  
  
  My dogs (and cats!) eat all their food out of puzzles so I am constantly on the lookout for new challenges! I'd be happy to provide more details on any of the toys I have, or buy and review any toys people have been wondering about :)
  EDIT: btw this Jackson Galaxy Asteroid is my favorite cat puzzle toy. They really need to make one for dogs because it is kinda quirky with its bounciness and super quiet.

FEEDING

>Every time I've fed him, he's thrown up.

How long has this been going on? If it has happened for more than a couple days you REALLY need to get to the bottom of this. A vet check would be prudent to rule out worms or any other gastric issues. What food are you feeding? How much? How often?

Puppies should be getting 3 meals a day. Free feeding should be avoided. If your puppy is eating too quickly consider getting a puzzle toy, making him earn most of his food through training or hand feeding or getting a special feeder (you can also use a muffin tray as a cheap remedy)

Check out the food you are feeding on Dog Food Advisor. Then compare it to the 4 star and 5 star food lists.

WHEN you feed is also an important consideration. Wait at least 30-60 minutes to feed after heavy activity.


HOUSE TRAINING

>I've been making sure to punish him accordingly (push his nose into the pee/poo, yelling at him, and taking him outside)

You should NOT be doing this! You are not teaching him that going to the bathroom in the house is bad - you are ONLY teaching him that going to the bathroom IN FRONT OF YOU IS DANGEROUS. If he has an accident in the house it is YOUR fault for not being around to let him out or watching him closely enough. Push your own nose in it as you are the only one who is failing.

A puppy is a baby - at 12 weeks they can only hold it for a maximum of 3 hours when they are inactive and usually only 30mins-1hour when they are active. They need to be supervised AT ALL TIMES or left in a puppy safe area (but not for any longer than they can physically hold it).

You do not need any "homemade tech" - you just need to manage his environment more! Look into Crate Training, clean up pet messes immediately with an enzymatic cleaner, and get him on a schedule (which is sounds like you are sort of doing - but if he is still having accidents he may need to go out more frequently or you need to do a better part of watching him/being around on time). Rewarding him with a high value treat when he goes outside IS correct - but stop punishing him when he makes a mistake!

See: Errorless House Training, House Training a Puppy and ASPCA House Training your Dog (this one covers the 'why' behind the effectiveness or lack-there-of for certain 'old school' methods - like paper training and rubbing your dogs nose in waste).


BITING/CHEWING
> He does seem pretty obedient when I catch him trying to chew, as he will stop when I yell at him and he will leave it alone.

You are focusing waaay too much on punishment. Again, your dog is a baby - he does not KNOW that your flip flops are valuable to you. He just knows he is a puppy and he is teething and this weird piece of foam and plastic feels good to chew on. Yelling at him just makes you scary and dangerous and is not actually TEACHING him what he SHOULD be doing. Look for opportunities to teach, not to punish.

Pick up and store everything that you do not want your pup to chew on - this includes making sure shoes are put away, paper is out of reach and any other 'favorite' non-appropriate chews are stored in a drawer, closet or on a high shelf (this is basic puppy proofing). If there is a room with a lot of items you cannot store that he tends to chew on - block access to that room with gates or doors (or ensure he is on leash and closely supervised when in these areas).

If you catch him chewing on something he should not - use a positive interrupter and replace the object with something he SHOULD be chewing on. Play with him a bit with the new object and encourage him to seek these items out. Reward him with small treats whenever you catch him 'being good' (playing with appropriate toys instead of your shoes) and take breaks to play with him when you see him doing these things as often as you can. You want to teach him that playing with these objects is rewarding and gets him attention. Some dogs will seek out 'off limits' items just because it gets your attention so effectively. Try to ignore him or use a positive interrupter and redirect to a new object. Going into a different room, waiting a few seconds and calling the puppy to you is a good way to redirect him away from the object without giving him direct attention. NEVER chase a dog with an object in their mouth the should not have - that just makes it a game for them! Unless the object is immediately dangerous, try to convince them to drop it on their own and make a big deal about them choosing a better chew.

Make sure there are several toys that he enjoys chewing on available at all times. You may also want to use natural chews like Bully Sticks or Trachea to help encourage positive chewing habits. Things like ice cubes or damp, frozen rags are great chews for pups with sore mouths from teething.

CRATE TRAINING/SLEEPING

This is totally normal for puppies. They are alone for the first time in their lives and that is really scary to them!

A properly sized crate should be just big enough for puppy to stand, sit, lay down and turn around in. Any bigger and they have the opportunity to use a corner for a bathroom and sleep on the other side. The purpose of the smaller crate size is to discourage them from having accidents and to learn to hold their bladder.

That being said, remember a puppy of this age can only hold it for a few hours! You will likely need to take him out at least once in the night until he is old enough to hold it longer.

You need to ensure that NO attention is given to the puppy while he is in the crate and crying. This becomes a bit of a trick as you need to be SURE he isn't crying to go out to the bathroom. The general rule is:

• If the pup has been out in the last 30-60 minutes, ignore
  
• If the pup has NOT been out, take him DIRECTLY outside on leash, give him 5-10minutes to do his business. If he does, you can give him a small treat then RIGHT back inside in his crate to sleep. No pets, not excessive attention, no play time. Potty. Crate. That is all fussing gets.
  
• If the pup carries on for more than 10 minutes or so, it may be worth taking them outside (see bullet #2) to make sure they are 'empty'. Again, they have 5-10 minutes to go. If they do, treat, inside. If they dont? They go back in the crate. No treat.
  
• If you are 100% sure the pup does not need to go to the bathroom, you MUST absolutely ignore the pup. No yelling ("QUIET!" "SHUT UP!"), No hitting the crate, no eye contact, try not to walk by the crate, etc. Pretend like you absolutely cannot hear him. It is hard the first few nights, but if you are absolutely consistent, the behavior WILL stop.
  
• If he is quiet in his crate (and people are awake) give him some small treats and attention to reinforce that behavior.
  
  It can help if you have his crate in the same room while you sleep so he doesn't feel so alone. Blankets also help if he is being over stimulated by the environment.
  
  GENERAL
  
  Be sure the puppy is getting plenty of exercise, training and attention. If you are working 8 hours every single night and sleeping during the day - puppy can be left with a lot of 'free time' which can lead to behavior issues. Puppies DO sleep a lot, but they should be getting at least 30-60 minutes of activity every 2 hours or so (between naps) and (ideally) have a max of 8 hours 'quiet time' during traditional sleeping hours.
  
  Here is a list of resources I would strongly encourage you look at - in addition to getting him into a puppy kindergarten class:
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)

Here is a picture of my girl, just so you know that I am definitely dealing with a very long backed dog. So, I do take some precautions when it comes to her activity. For instance, I walk her about 2-3 hours per day, but I make sure that it's mostly grassy trails and not a lot of cement. When I walk her on cement, we keep the walks short-ish (40-60min). Cement puts more stress on dogs bones/joints, and that includes their backs.

Another thing I do is keep the running around short. I do play fetch with her, and I allow her to run back and forth, and run around the yard.. however.. thankfully she takes breaks on her own. She will run really really fast across the entire yard, and then she will lay down and gnaw on a stick. We give her a minute or so of a break, and then we resume the running. Frequent breaks are important, and we are extra cautious. On top of that, we keep this form of exercise kind of short. We keep her outside running around for about ten minutes before we bring her inside for a nice long break. Then, after about an hour or so, we go back outside to play some more.

I also, of course, train a lot with my dog, so she is always mentally tired. She is a Competition Obedience dog, and a Canine Nosework dog, so we have a lot to work on during the day. I am also a positive reinforcement dog trainer, so I really need to make sure my girl is her best self!

Maybe the little guy would benefit from more freedom, alongside more mental/physical stimulation. If you're able to give him a better life, I think it would be better for you to take him in. Of course, this is totally just my personal opinion, after just one tiny little itty bitty glimpse into your MIL's lifestyle.

I think if your MIL were to carry treats around with her, and keep them on her at all times, she could toss them far away from the couch each time the pup approaches the couch. Whenever she wants him to just go away, she can begin to toss treats all around the room. This will make the floor a rewarding place to hang out. I also recommend she gets a nice comfy dog bed for the dog so he can hang out on the floor comfortably. That's the other thing we did for my girl. We have these exact doggy steps for the bed/couches/chairs/etc. We also have this $90 X-Large pet cave bed for my girl so she has somewhere comfy to lay on the floor. This is definitely important for Dachshund's backs. Here's an album of the X-Large bed.. which is just ridiculously large.. there really is no need to buy the bed this large.. I can comfortably fit inside of it and sleep.

So, I think if your MIL truly needs to stop with the force training, and needs to start using encouragement to get the pup to do what she wants. This will definitely build a better bond between them, and it will help the pup be less defiant!

Obviously as others have said, don't do it. If she really is that disruptive to your life, rehoming her to someone who can manage the behaviour is a better option for everyone involved. Declawing creates more problems than what you have now, and to a more severe degree than the immediate surgery pain.

Aside from what other people have suggested and what you've already tried, you may need to change up her routine and the spaces she's given access to. If she's scratching up living room furniture, keep her in another room when you're not there to supervise.

I've found this to work on all the cats I've met so far, but instead of something like a spray bottle or even a sudden noise, tell her in her own language what she's doing isn't cool - if I catch a cat scratching up my rug or doing anything inappropriate, I let out a loud, sharp SSSSS sound. Cats I've never met (neighbourhood cats) before have responded to this in an instant. It doesn't generate the confusion of "that was loud, what was it?" or "something got me wet, what was it?", but it mimics their own vocabulary of STOP IT.

You'll have to find a toy or set of toys that can really engage her for many short spurts. Cats will usually play, then rest, then play more, and then rest. If you can get her panting after a few play sessions, you can know you've done a good job. Obviously do this right before bed. Jackson Galaxy's Da Bird has rave reviews, but I've also had great success with Cat Dancer and shoe laces. My cat loves chasing small, bouncy things that make a noise when they bounce off of things, so when dollar store wand toys break, I take the end cap and use them as a chase toy.

Once she's tired, feed her - but you don't have to feed her straight from a bowl or saucer. Make her work for it. Feed kibble? Toss each piece of kibble and make her chase it down piece by piece.

You know those dog foraging puzzles? Get some of those. Cats figure them out quickly, but they don't always have the best dexterity, so it eats up some time as they maneuver the pieces to get their food. I think the puzzle toys for cats are way too easy. There are lots on Amazon like the Trixie or Outward Hound line, and there are also Wobbler bobbing toys, slow feeders, and treat balls (I reinforce these with duct tape on the inside so there are little blockages that prevent food from easily rolling out at once - straight out of the box, they are just way too easy), but you can also just get three pieces of wood, a dowel, and some water bottles and create your own version of this toy but customize the difficulty by putting holes in different parts of the water bottles and keeping the caps on.

Also, hide kibble all over her appropriate play areas like towers and cat-friendly furniture. I do this every night all over my room in every cat-appropriate nook and cranny I can find, and by the time she's done hunting down all the pieces she smells and wants, she should be ready to turn in for a few hours. I actually make a bedtime mini meal of kibble foraging and I love knowing that during a time she would naturally be most active, my cat is pretty mellow until she sees me get up in the morning, or even later beyond that.

Also, if you haven't yet, try all textures, directions, shapes, and heights of different types of scratchers to see if she can find a preference over pieces of furniture, or rearrange to block those parts of the furniture away from her. You can also apply stuff like Sticky Paws double sided adhesive so it's uncomfortable where/when she tries to scratch.

And yes, definitely learn to clip her nails.

The basics (food, leash, collar, dishes, crate) will probably already be taken care of. I'd focus on training and positive dog-kid interaction, because it will set the stage for their relationship. If they're working together then it's easier to commit long term and be responsible, because it's enjoyable.

I guess it depends how much money are you looking to spend.

In the upper ranges, you could pay for a puppy kindergarten class (great for socialization, great for everyone involved).

Or maybe, a manners minder, a very effective training tool.

In the less expensive categories,

What about puzzle toys? They'll keep the puppy mentally stimulated, keep him quiet(er) when left alone, and give your family some peaceful breaks from the chaos. People need to destress too, in order to interact with dogs successfully.

• kong is a classic. Smear some peanut butter on the inside and it's like a puppy pacifier. Or, stuff it with mushy dog food and freeze it for an even longer lasting activity.
  
• JW treat ball is more active and will tire a puppy out. Treat balls are good for feeding kibble at mealtimes (no need to use dishes at every meal!).
  
  Maybe a portable dog water bottle/bowl for long walks? Something like this: gulpy water. That would encourage the idea of exercise and getting out and about, and also the idea that the puppy's well being and safety need to be accounted for.
  
  Books are a good idea too. It depends what his reading level is, and how much he enjoys reading. I wouldn't want to make puppy care tedious or a chore. There's a good training booklist here http://www.reddit.com/r/Dogtraining/wiki/books. If you think those would be a bit too heavy for him, maybe a book of dog trick ideas would be fun.
  
  The sooner kids interact positively with a puppy, the better it will go in the long run. On that note, like flibbertygiblet said, a clicker, treat bag, and a bag of tiny stinky treats would be a great idea. If you go the clicker route, I'd recommend starting with a quiet one, so the puppy doesn't get startled at first. Kids and puppies can be a bit unpredictable, so better safe than sorry. I like the iClick model.
  
  
  

Here's my list of "favorites" for my GSDs:

Chuck-It Balls. By far, the most durable balls I've found. They've got some "give", so they seem to enjoy chewing/chasing them more. Remember, once the ball can fit between their back teeth, it's time to upgrade to the larger size.


The Shark Vacuum is a beast. We've tried any number of vacuums over the years, this one falls into the "Not Stupidly Expensive and Totally Worth It" category. Getting a decent Undercoat Rake goes hand-in-hand with a good vacuum. Rake once a week (three times during shedding season), brush 1-3 times a week, you'll give your back a break no matter what vacuum you buy.

In terms of training treats, we really like the Red Barn Chicken and Liver Rolls. After a while, we use them exclusively for scent training, but it's an excellent (and not expensive!) treat for any kind of training. Cube small, you'll get a ton of mileage out of one roll.

Herm Sprenger Dog Collars make great training collars. Not everyone likes the idea of a pinch/prong collar, so if it's not your thing, look elsewhere. However, if you are planning on training with pinch, these are the best, bar none. We use the small size and just add links as our dog grows - it's almost impossible to injure them with the smaller prongs and they tend to respond better. Please learn how to use a pinch before using one of these extensively - they shouldn't be used for restraint and you should probably wait until 8+ months (a number of people I know even wait till 14+ months for any obedience aside from the "necessities") before doing a ton of training anyway.

I'll stay away from food recommendations as it seems to be such a controversial topic. I will say that there are a ton of good sites out there to research - first figuring out whether you're feeding raw, tube, or kibble and then what to do once you decide.

Last - look for a dog club in your area. I personally like the German Shepherd Dog Club of America - Working Dog Association, but there are a number of places like this. I can tell you irrefutably that my dogs' favorite day of the week is training day. Nothing like getting out there with other GSD lovers and doing some tracking/obedience/protection work.

Hope this helps! Good luck :)

Got it. Sorry for the knee jerk reaction, without the info that you were taking her from a deceased owner it seemed like just an impulse decision to adopt a difficult breed.

Here we go. When you get the dog, start with a Two Week Shutdown to ensure the smoothest introduction of your dog to their new environment. This is super important and something i WISH I knew about when I adopted my dog.

General Dog Care Checklist from the ASPCA.

The bare necesseities of supplies:

• Premium-quality dog food. [Taste of the Wild](https://www.amazon.com/Taste-Wild-Prairie-Formula-30-Pound/dp/B000W5SLB8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485423771&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=dog+food) is very popular for being affordable and high-quality<br />

• Food dish
  
• Water bowl
  
• Toys, toys and more toys, including safe chew toys. KONGS are wonderful for keepiing your dog occupied. Fill with wet food or PB, freeze, and give to dog.
  
• Brush & comb for grooming, including flea comb. Look into breed specific brushes
  
• Collar with license and ID tag
  
• Leash, Easy Walk Harness
  
• Training crate
  
• Dog bed (check Groupon for great deals) or box with warm blanket or towel
  
• Dog toothbrush
  
  I don't have experience with huskies but I have heard over and over how they are a difficult dog to own, and require around 2 hours of intense exercise daily. I found this Breed Discussion which may be informative for you. Do you have a dog park nearby? That would be great if its a fenced in area, because huskies are "escape artists".
  
  Honestly, like myself, a lot of were quick to jump the gun on you and didn't offer any real help. I would suggest posting a new post with a title like: "Inherited a husky whose owner died, what are some tips and resources I can read to give this dog a great life?". Definitely include that there are no shelters nearby. Are you in the US?
  
  Hope I helped atleast a bit. If you use the "search" function on this subreddit and search for "husky", you will see users who have "flair" saying that they own a siberian husky. You could PM them and I'm sure they would be more helpful than me. Also try posting in r/siberianhusky/. How old is the dog? Pics?
  
  Sorry again for the insensitive reply at first. I really wish you luck and if you have any questions I'm happy to help!

I have never in my life heard of a dog losing the ability to socialize with others so rapidly. I think there's something else going on, and I bet it's your depression.

Dogs are very sensitive to stress in their humans. I think your dog knows there's something wrong. She doesn't understand what it is, but it's got her afraid, and she's doing her best to keep you and herself safe. I have heard of cases of dogs becoming aggressively protective when their owners are going through stressful periods like break-ups, job loss, evictions, etc. Unfortunately, aggression has a way of snowballing, because when you anticipate that she's going to be aggressive, she picks up on your tenseness, and it makes her feel even more protective.

I think the most important thing you can do is try to get yourself back into a happy headspace. When you're relaxed and confident, your dog can relax and be confident. Try to take it easy and be a good role model for your dog. When you go walking with her, for example, try not to tense up when other people approach, because your dog may be misreading that as fear and see these people as a threat to you.

In the meantime, buy yourself a clicker or two, come up with some inexpensive treats that are small and healthy and super delicious to your dog, and get ready to familiarize yourself with clicker training. Clicker training is a great way to work on your dog's confidence. With this method, you can gradually introduce an animal to the thing it fears and show them it's not so scary after all.

If I were you, I would start by teaching her the most important skill of all: To always have her attention on you whenever you're training her. Watch this. And when you're done, watch these.

After that, I would train her to stay focused on you whenever you're walking her on a leash. I'd start by practicing inside the home without any distractions. Then, when she's got it 100%, gradually add distractions (like the sound of the TV turned up or her favorite toys scattered around). And when she can do it indoors perfectly, try practicing outdoors when there aren't people/animals around. Then practice when there are people/animals in the distance. And then when they're a little closer.

I would also teach her some sort of command that means, basically, "Stop whatever you're doing. We're leaving now." Watch this.

Then I'd gradually work on walking her closer and closer to people/animals and rewarding her for being calm, paying more attention to me than to them, and obeying my "let's go" command.

Be patient and don't set her up for failure. If she's having trouble getting it right, take a step back and practice what she can already do reliably. Then try again. Dogs gets frustrated when they make too many mistakes, so do your best to save her from making them.

Keep your training sessions short, and always end on a good note (i.e., with her getting it right and still interested in further training). Training should never go on so long that either you or she are getting tired of it; you want to keep it as something she looks forward to.

Some of these are probably things you've already thought about, but here is my list.

Please visit /r/puppy101 !

• Kennel appropriate for his size, should be able to lay down and turn around in it. Too big and the puppy will be more prone to accidents in their kennel. (Midwest Homes makes great crates for all sizes, most come with a divider).
  
• Bedding for kennel and soft blanket. (Example)
  
• Baby blankets, just a personal thing for me - I set up a blanket and put her toys on it, it's her "play area". (Example)
  
• Stuffed toys, squeaky toys, tuggy toys, chew toys (puppy appropriate), snuggle toys - TOYS, TOYS, TOYS. Pets Smart has a buy 2 get 1 free sale, or least they did a week ago. Kong is one of the brands on sale, I highly recommend them.
  
• Teething toys for when he eventually starts teething. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000084E6V/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 ,
  
• A Kong toy, look up how to use one and which one to buy - my puppy loves it. (http://www.kongcompany.com/)
  
• Toy bin.
  
• Treats that can be cut up into small pieces for training. I use deli Turkey and Chicken, as well as Apples & peanut butter. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0ZJHW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HBBQKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002H3R2E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1)
  
• A clicker, if you've decided to do clicker training. (Example)
  
• Harness.
  
• Collar and tags.
  
• Water bowl, food bowl, and mat.
  
• Food storage container, and a scoop.
  
• Treat bag. (Example)
  
• Dental care kit. (Example)
  
• Brush, or Furminator if they're going to be long-haired. (Example, Example)
  
• Shampoo and/or conditioner (Example)
  
• Leash for leash training, and a long leash for other training.
  
• Towels. Large one for drying him or his feet, and small ones for cleaning up messes.
  
• Nature's Miracle, for mess clean up. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPSXN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Poop bags or pooper scooper, as well as a poop bag dispenser or trash can for poop. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017SZNOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M4QLXAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Doggy "diaper bag". I bought a tote online so I can bring stuff with me for travel (to dog park, vet, friends house, etc.) (Example)
  
• Baby gates. So many baby gates - I have two with cat doors and a large door for humans to easily walk through. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00229V2KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
  
• Look into CareCredit or Pet Insurance.
  
• Look up Vets in your area and the costs of all their vaccines/boosters/exams/spray or neuter/rabies shots/etc.
  
• Look up your states laws on dog registration (usually occurs right after they get their rabies shot).
  
  Edit: Forgot Nail Clipps and/or a dremel.

:( That does sound hectic. My registry is kinda all over the place because I've already bought a ton of stuff, but just some suggestions of some things (FTM so no idea really if these are good or not, some were recommendations from friends, some were recommendations from various online resources).

• car seat, extra base if you have more than one car, and stroller
  
• baby carrier - I got the ergobaby 360 with infant insert but the Lillebaby 360 is also super popular.
  
• swaddles - aden & anais seem to be hugely popular.
  
• bathing supplies - washcloths, bathtub
  
• first aid kit supplies - NoseFrida, nail clipper, thermometer
  
• feeding - bottles, sterilizer (some people told me I had to have it, some said it was totally unnecessary), bottle cleaner brush, drying rack (seems like everyone else loves the Boon grass, but I don't have the counter space!) You can get a pump through your insurance if you plan to breastfeed, I ordered mine through Aeroflow. I ultimately chose the Spectra S2 over the Medela PISA because it's a closed system, which apparently means less chances of bacteria getting into the system and thus easier cleaning.
  
• burp clothes - I was told to just get a ton of cloth diapers to use as burp clothes, and to have them everywhere.
  
• diaper pail - I have two friends who say this is good enough, so I went with it. They also said to use doggie poop bags to contain the smelly diapers.
  
• humidifier
  
• Boppy for nursing
  
• Backpack style diaper bag
  
• baby may need a more convenient place to be set down other than the crib, something you can have near you in the kitchen, shower, whatever. Popular options are the rock n play, Boppy lounger, or a pack 'n play. I plan on getting the Chicco FastAsleep pack 'n play because the crib/dresser/changing station is on our 2nd floor, so I figured this could double as a changing station/napper on the first floor.
  
  Lucie's List is probably the best resource I found online.

This is my advice from training lots of dogs and volunteering many years at the humane society (I am not a professional) - "don't work harder, work smarter." You are trying way too hard and you are burning yourself out. That does not bode well for you or your dog.

He is hyperactive and needs to get his energy out, but that said, no dog needs 4-5 hours of activity a day. That is just crazy. Instead of running or walking (save your knees, you need them!) with him, train him to do urban mushing. Since you says he pulls a lot, it would be dangerous for you to get a regular bike so I would recommend getting a cart.

Next, buy him a weighted pack. Throw this on him (and feel free to put your water bottles and snacks in there) while you are walking or for a couple of hours a day and it will slow him down and tire him out. It also makes him feel like he has a job to do. Since you think he may be a blue lacey, you really need to give him a job to do since he is a working dog. That also explains why he doesn't like doing tricks but likes finding stuff for you.

A couple of activities that are great for a working dog are agility and nose work. Sign up for your local agility and nose work class and the people there will give you great tips on how to tire your dog out without burning yourself out since they are actually experienced with training with working dogs. These kinds of jobs also train him to listen to your commands in a home setting.

Your dog is not a extremely dominant or submissive, he is what working dog trainers call a "soft" dog. This means they are very sensitive to loud, verbal yelling or negative energy. It is hard to see them react when you overcorrect but this also means that they are very trainable since they want to please you. Use a calm and low voice when you correct your dog.

For working from home, you have to learn to ignore him. I know it is heartbreaking to hear his whining but the truth of it is, if you give a dog an inch, they will take a mile. He knows how to push your buttons and he will so you have to harden yourself up not give in. Instead, get him a bunch of interactive toys
like this 1, [2] (https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Mad-Scientist-Dogs-Level/dp/B003TOKTEG/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1469997634&sr=8-11&keywords=interactive+dog+toys), [3.] (https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Gambling-Tower-Level-1/dp/B002XCTUIQ/ref=sr_1_38?ie=UTF8&qid=1469997634&sr=8-38&keywords=interactive+dog+toys) Fill them with his favorite treats and let him learn to amuse himself.

Lastly, this is probably the most important advice I have - get a gentle leader. It jerks their head to the side if they pull, so they stop pulling. It works amazingly for dogs who like to pull on their leash and do not respond to training. It seriously is a godsend for many of the dogs I walked in the shelter and could not control. It will save you many a more broken bones.

Feel free to message me if you need more help. I love helping people who love their dogs enough to not give up on them.

Right now, our favorite is The Odin. My dogs like that it's rolly and that I stuff it with good smelling things. I like that it doesn't make a bunch of noise banging around our hardwood floors.

My female dog is VERY smart. We used to have the IQ Treat Ball but she pretty quickly figured out that all she had to do was shake it the right way and the treats would fall out. The Odin is trickier and they spend more time on it.

Autumn also used to have things like this one but, again, she figured them out so quickly it was kind of a waste. That one, she can now do in under ten seconds. It's not even a challenge.

So instead of spending money on seek and find toys, I recommend making your own games like that by hiding treats under small solo cups or tennis balls cut in half.

As for training sessions...

Small, focused sessions work best when the dog is learning a new skill. It's easy to get frustrated and overwhelmed when you're learning something new, in a language you don't even speak. But once they have the basics down, you can add more variety and length. You also don't have to, say, do a 30 minute long stretch. You can do two 15s. Or two 10s.

And once they have the basics down, you can turn training into games. Sit-Down-Stand is one of my favorites because it's so useful and it can be done in a smaller space.

Games work great because you're reinforcing the "training" behavior, but you're doing it in a way that feels like fun for both you and your dog. Spending time with your dog should be fun!

I hope this helps. I have a pair of high energy, loudmouth kids of my own and this has made them a lot more managable.

Fun! I'll let you know some of my dog gear, but your preferences and dog will be different.

I usually bring three different leashes with me, depending a little on where I'm going. She can't really be off leash, so I take a 30 ft line to give her space to wander or splash in the river on a break. If the trail is too busy or the hike is a pretty short one, this often gets left behind or never used.

A basic 15 ft leash is perfect for hiking with her. It gives her a bit more space, but isn't long enough to cause much trouble getting wrapped around things, and I can easily pull her closer to me when I need. I tied a couple knots in it for easier grabbing and holding at different lengths. I can also use a locking carabiner (I always have a couple on hand) to attach the handle to my backpack for hands-free.

I also love my Tuff Mutt hands-free waist leash. It has two handles if I need to hold her closer, and I really like the bungee. The only downside is that it's a bit heavy for a leash, but I find it's worth the weight, and I'm almost always just doing day hikes so it's fine. I don't know really know how it compares to other hands-free leashes though since it's the only one I've used.

I recently got a Ruffwear Front Range harness for hikes. It is the only harness I've been able to put on her, so I really can't compare much. Seems to fit her comfortably and works well as a back-clip harness. I haven't been able to use it as a front-clip without it sliding around too much. But I don't really need the front-clip when hiking, so I'm pretty pleased with it overall. If my dog wasn't so finicky about harnesses, I'd be trying other options though. You might prefer one with a handle, I've heard good things about the Ruffwear Webmaster.

I currently have an Outward Hound travel bowl for water, but I'm not a huge fan of it. My dog doesn't always drink all the water I pour, so then I've wasted water. And I either have to put a wet bowl back in my bag or clip to the outside and hear the annoying swish of it rubbing against the bag. It's not a big deal, and it works, but I'm eyeing one of these instead.

Happy hiking!

Hello, I’ve got a golden too!! This is the link of the crate I’ve bought, the measures are in cm. It’s still perfect now he’s got 1 y old, we use it for long travels/holidays... my pup was very comfy in it and he didn’t complain once during our first travel together, it was 3 hours by car.

https://www.amazon.it/dp/B00QAVNWSK/ref=pe_3310731_185740161_TE_item_image

For Goldens fur I don’t advise you the furminator, breeder and groomer both told me that it ruins the undercoat. So I’d suggest you to buy just a comb and a cardator rake.
If you wash him by yourself search a good shampoo, and don’t buy the first one you find (my mistake) but better ask your groomer or breeder.
Goldens love to nip a lot, invest in good safe chews!!! My golden doesn’t care about chews that don’t smell, and didn’t care about plastic ones (but well every golden is different).
One last thing, subscribe to
r/goldenretriever and post there some cute pictures please!

I'm in the same boat you are, just 6 months in. Never had a dog before, always a cat person. Here's what I've learned (so far).

1. All they want is to be with you. If she's not with you, she probably into something.
   
2. They're smart. So smart that you'll realize you're not as smart as you thought you were. I bought ours this, filled it with treats, then anxiously awaited as he tried to solve the puzzle. He just picked the whole thing up and flipped it over so that all of the treat covers fell out. "Problem" solved.
   
3. It took ours a couple months to get the "retriever" part down, but once he did.. man he brings us everything.
   
4. Give him lots of toys that he can "work" at. Kong toys with treats in them, maze balls, etc. I'm thinking of picking up something like this for ours next.
   
5. Be ready to walk. Cold, hot, doesn't matter. Golden's need exercise and love to run. On that note...
   
6. Get him out to a dog park or visit with other dog-having friends as much as you can! Not only is it great for socializing the dog, but she'll be tired out from all of the playing.
   
7. Try to curb jumping up as soon as possible. we didn't do this, and now we're kicking ourselves.
   
8. Get some training books and start as soon as you feel your pup is ready. Ours looooves being engaged and figuring out what he's supposed to do.
   
9. When she picks up something she's not supposed to, don't chase after her. Again, this is our boys favorite game now. "Oh, daddy is trying to work? I'm just going to grab this pillow and run!"
   
10. Remember that it's always your fault. Any bad behavior is the result of the dog not being told what is allowed. Positive reinforcement is always the better option!

My add on list is for my PUP! You've "met" Lulu, right?! My husky? I think you've complimented her on how beautiful she is. Here are her lovely photos again, just in case:

Lulu!

Lulu again!

Lulu some more!

Lulu Wearing Eyebrows

Final Lulu!

Bonus video:

Dog doing tricks

---

$4.59 stuffed dog toy

$3.49 squeaky tennis ball set

$3.49 car air fresheners (also a dog item, stinky pup coming back from the beach!)

$3.74 dog toy - stuffingless duck (Lulu LOVES her babies, and she whines when she holds them in her mouth!)

$5.22 Cheddar dog treats

$3.99 Pumpkin dog treats

$3.99 Cranberry dog treats

---

28.51 in add on items! THIS IS THE MOST SUPER CONTEST I'VE EVER HEARD OF IN MY ENTIRE LIFE. If I win, I will prepare an academy-award-esque speech and take a video of my dog enjoying all of these items! You are so awesome! I'm so geeked to see who wins and all their superb items!

---

Those Himalaya's of the mind!

I own and love this comb and this looks very similar to a fantastic comb one of my coworkers uses.

For slickers, Les Poochs makes some pretty awesome ones - their red one is amazing at dematting! Unfortunately they're also really expensive! If you don't mind spending, the Pro Brush (F/F) would be the way to go. If you're cheap like me, this has very good reviews and should perform acceptably as well. I personally like flexible slickers, so I recommend them.

Truthfully I seldom use undercoat rakes. A high velocity blow dryer (k9 brand is good - don't bathe at home without a blower, it's a good investment) serves the purpose for me both with my own dog and with the dogs at work. Still, if you want an undercoat rake, stay away from things that have blades - Furminators, Furminator knock-offs, Mars Coat Kings, coat king knock offs. There's a time and place for those but I would not personally use them on a spitz of any breed. Something like this will do. I also like shedding combs though I haven't found one without a handle yet.

Additional stuff: you need a good pair of nail clippers, and I also recommend spray like The Stuff or Ice on Ice to keep things feeling nice and fresh.

My jindo also loves going for walks/sniffing, and does not care at all about toys. He is very food motivated, however, so we keep him mentally stimulated with different types of feeder puzzles/toys.

We have this snuffle/sniff mat for nosework and we have an assortment of the Nina Ottosson puzzle feeders (we started with this one which is a level 2). The puzzle feeders are great because they are labeled by difficulty level and, depending on which one you have, can be more mentally exhausting than others. We have a variety of level 1, 2, and 3. He's still trying to figure out how to master this one.

We only feed him his meals through these puzzle feeders/sniff mats and just switch up which puzzle he gets every day so he doesn't get bored. He really enjoys working on them and it's always entertaining to watch him think and figure them out/get better over time.

Like another commenter mentioned, we also do moderate obedience training every day for about 5-15 minutes. We work on reinforcing something he already knows to get a really solid response (and use these commands at the end of the session to end on a good note!), and we'll also incorporate a new command slowly within these sessions (the new commands we never go beyond 5 minutes of training within a session so he doesn't get frustrated). They're really smart dogs so they can pick up new commands quickly!

We're also looking into taking him to nosework classes, which are becoming more popular, so you can search and see if your area offers any near you, though I'm not sure that's what you're looking for if you're at home working.

And to reiterate what everyone else is saying, our boy loves to be near us and is very chill indoors, so I'm sure your pup is just glad you're home and around.

You're welcome!

We adopted our dog 10 years ago and he is part GSD. He needed lots of exercise! After trying many toys, we used mostly this one for him: https://www.amazon.com/Treat-Dispensing-Chew-Ball-Large/dp/B0009YD8NS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

He played with this toy about 6-8 hours per day. For YEARS. It was very entertaining to watch.

If you try something like this, make it easy the first few times. Remove the little nubs that keep kibble from falling out, so that it falls out easily.

Later you can start varying what is inside for maximum fun. I used to get the fattest carrots from Costco and put chunks inside the ball. It helped to slow the kibble from falling out, and also makes a noise that would make our dog want to play with it more. He eventually learned how to stomp on the ball and make carrots fly across the room. :)

Also we used more than one treat ball toy at the same time. When our dog became bored with one, he would switch to the other one for a while rather than asking us to "fix" the one he was bored with.

Now he is almost 14, so I've made it a lot easier while keeping his play routine intact. He now eats from a traditional kong toy. It can be loaded so that there is more licking and less physical movement required. But he still likes to treat it like a ball even though it is not necessary.

For interactive play, I have two puzzle toys
this
and something like this

So each lunch break, we play the "Find!" game. He loves manipulating things with his nose and feet.

He is fed out of puzzle toys, which I'm around for to make sure he doesn't chew on them too much, but he works himself. That's the kong wobbler, and an IQ treat ball. For monitored play, I also have stuffed toys, which he throws around like that video of an orca playing with a seal (vaguely disturbing), and WILL tear up given the chance. I also have balls on rope toys. Again, he will toss and whip those around, chase them across the floor, generally have a grand ole time. He WILL chew on the rope though, so that toys gets picked up when I'm not in the room.

For unattended, crate time, I have two rubber kongs, also stuffed with food, usually frozen, a Starmark ever-lasting treat ball, and a full antler. I got a split antler because I thought he might not like it. That was a mistake. he was splitting shards off the split one in < 30 min. He is the second dog I've seen do that, so I cannot recommend split antlers under any circumstances. We've had the full antler for about a month, and thought it's worn, it's still very solid. I have no concerns leaving it in his crate, and he chews it like a pacifier when he gets stressed/bored.

I am caring for a SUPER mouthy lab. He will pick up and eat anything. Really.An-nee-thing. I have lot of toys and try to rotate, but sometimes he still picks up a houseplant.

We adopted our cocker spaniel when she was about 2. She'd been severely neglected. She has no idea what toys are. She had no idea how to play.

After 3 years of effort we have made some progress.

• She likes this treat ball, and only this treat ball. She's very food oriented (hello, cocker!) and will roll it about hopefully even after the treats are gone.
  
  
• She recently began to play chase the ball with our standard poodle. She won't bring the ball back.
  
  
• She plays gentle games of patpaw and pushyface.
  
  She enjoys chewing on Nylabones and regular bones, but won't touch a kong.
  
  
  I don't think she'll ever be terribly playful, but I've never found female cockers to be very playful anyway. Perhaps your dog is simply more serious minded?
  
  Her favorite activity is checking the perimeter of our fenced yard. It is quite large, with chipmunks, squirrels, and rabbits. She absolutely loves it, and flushes small animals from the bushes for the st.poodle to chase down and...
  
  Well. I won't elaborate. Some people are squeamish. But they're quite a team.
  
  Maybe your dog would like to learn some tricks. Perhaps a job, like opening drawers or turning lights on/off.
  
  Good luck. I know it is disconcerting to have a dog that doesn't respond to any toys.

I've registered for the Dyson vacuum for this very reason. My parents own it and have 5 long haired cats and hardwood floors, and it has done wonders on hardwood and their furniture. I have friends with cats/dogs who have carpet and also swear by the investment.

The dyson vacuum will take care of all your needs and has so many attachments that do incredibly well. The one I've registered for is so much cheaper on Amazon as well (but it is still spendier than most vacuums): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNUFRQC?ref_=hit_wr_dt_vr_md_pt

For my upholstry (for now since our current vacuum isn't good) I actually bought this little vacuum and it does incredibly well for both my shiba and kai on both my leather and upholstered couches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EYFQ28?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

Bathing your shiba during shedding season will help with loosening the hairs and make grooming easier.

I also suggest the following brushes that have done wonders for my dogs and have helped keep our apartment clean during shedding seasons.

Kong Zoom Groom - great for top coat shedding predominantly, but does get undercoat as well, just not as well.

Furminantor - Great to get rid of undercoat or loosening it up. Some people say it damages the top coat, I personally have never noticed, but don't overuse it because I do think it can cause balding, but overbrushing in general can cause balding.

Double teeth Undercoat Rake: MASTER at pulling out undercoat without any damage to top coat.

Deshedding tool: This is also a magical tool to getting rid of the undercoat. I sometimes think it works the best of all the mentioned ones for undercoat at least for Kiba, Taro's fur seems to respond better to the furminantor, while Kiba doesn't release as much from that.

Yeah I’m not a fan of teaching by discipline. My dogs actually have 3 different leads for walks, because things work for different types of dogs.

I’ve got one on a Gentle Leader. It’s pain free, and easy to use. The only downside was it rubbed the hair off one of my dogs, so we had to switch what he was on.

PetSafe Gentle Leader Head Collar with Training DVD, LARGE 60-130 LBS., BLACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ArVJBbSYWZN8K

I’ve got another one on the Holy leader. For some reason he was able to just power through the gentle leader like it wasn’t even on, but the Holt seems to work as intended. Same concept of forcing the dog to turn and look at you if he pulls.

Holt Head Collar Black Size 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OCXVJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1uVJBbW14C4QP

He third dog, the one who has his hair rubbed off, is on the RabitGoo harness. It has a leash attachment in the front, to prevent pulling, a handle to grab onto if needed, and a back leash attachment. They run a little big, so if he borders between sizes get the smaller one.

Rabbitgoo Dog Harness No-Pull Pet Harness Adjustable Outdoor Pet Vest 3M Reflective Oxford Material Vest for Dogs Easy Control for Small Medium Large Dogs (Black, L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8JT6FT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NxVJBb472BM7P

I also highly recommend the Primal Pet Gear training leash too. It’s easy on the hands and fits perfectly when my dogs are by my side. My dogs are bigger though, so I’m not sure if that makes a difference.

Primal Pet Gear Dog Leash 6ft Long - Traffic Padded Two Handle - Heavy Duty - Double Handles Lead Control Safety Training - Leashes Large Dogs Medium Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072144JB1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pzVJBbPNSC8YT

I’ll look for my notes and post!

I have a mini Aussie so I feel you. I try to be as inventive as possible with my budget but I suggest most interactive/treat dispensing toys. I make large ice cubes that are half chicken/beef broth with a jerky or bone sticking out only a little. Then because it’s a mini and she’s not a huge chewer I can make these inside a talenti gelato container. So basically inside a Tupperware (which plastic isn’t ideal because they can swallow it but mine doesn’t and focuses on the bone) there is the half and half broth with a bone and an easy treat to get. She also doesn’t eat paper/cardboard so I can put a bone or treat inside a tissue box or empty pasta box or whatever and she’ll rip it apart to get to it. Once again, I can only do it because I’m watching and I know she does not ingest this.

Here are some toys I suggest that are proven safer:

Lumo Ball

Snuffle Mat I really like the snuffle mat because you can feed all your meals in this and bring it with you if you want to keep your dog busy wherever you are.

OSPet Interactive Feeder
Trixie Puzzle

Ottosson Puzzle I really like most toys Outward Hound makes.

My dog’s favorite kong I find I can put just a biscuit or fill it full of kibble and pb and she’ll spend quite a bit of time getting it out.

Not sure if this allowed couldn’t find anything in about section that prohibits sharing links but here ya go!

Nina Ottoson Outward Hound Dog Brick Treat Puzzle Dog Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9XTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dzNPDbQ0N6AW1


PAW5: Wooly Snuffle Mat - Feeding Mat for Dogs (12" x 18") - Encourages Natural Foraging Skills - Easy to Fill - Fun to Use Design - Durable and Machine Washable - Perfect for Any Breed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1FV55I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dANPDbB4NDWAG

The last thing we did was get tennis balls and a muffin tin, filled a few with treats and covered the muffin slots with the balls to have her sniff them out.

And the easiest is to hide treats and have her sniff them out throughout the house.

I think Kongs are a good start.

I think with young puppies though, depending on their food drive and motivations, they may or may not take to puzzle toys early, so don't feel badly if it's too much for them.

We actually didn't start our dog on puzzle feeders for any "intelligence" benefit - she had super high food drive and kept eating quickly without chewing, vomiting out her meal, then eating her vomit, so we bought a slow feeder bowl which was perfect for her at 4 months old. We fed her out of frozen-solid Kongs in the morning starting when she was 5 months old to help curb her separation anxiety, and then eventually bought a Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble. Even on the easiest settings, she struggled quite a bit as a puppy so we cut down the stoppers to make the flow easier. When she got better at the game, we re-bought the toy and made it substantially more difficult.

My younger dog, a Samoyed, actually doesn't eat out of toys. He has a lesser food drive and while he'll occasionally eat out of a toy, he prefers to just eat his food and work for better snacks (i.e. training for high value treats), so figuring out what your future dog's preferences are is definitely going to be something you'll have to do as your dog grows up. This dog did not eat out of Kongs until he was about 6 months old, either. He's just as smart, just not as insanely food driven as my first dog!

This definitely looks like fungal acne to me aka Pityrosporum (Malassezia) Folliculitis - especially since you said wearing a hat and sweating exacerbates it and that it's spreading. Check out this article. It's super informative.

I've found great success with these wipes for some bumps on my forehead that I figured were fungal. The wipes are for pets but oh well, they have active ingredients that will eliminate the excessive fungal growth and are easy to use (I use 2x per day and on workout days before and after I sweat). Make sure to study the article to see if any of the products in your current routine feed the fungus!

I saw your wish list and you don't have any waste bags! I know toys and beds are important, but you have to think about hygiene as well. I bought waste bags similar to these and they're really important, so I would recommend getting them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NABTGY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550399181&sr=8-1&keywords=Dog&dpPl=1&dpID=41wU8IMCLcL&ref=plSrch

I thought these were pretty cool as wel, in case you wanna groom your dogs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9KSITZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1550399482&sr=8-27&keywords=Dog

And lastly this toy looks really nice. I remember I used to have one of these Gumbys(kids toy), and the dog version looks pretty good:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A80X19E/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1550399610&sr=8-21&keywords=Dog&dpPl=1&dpID=41IhHv4douL&ref=plSrch

> How often do you get the payout for the walks?

Pay periods are from Tuesday-Monday, with the money going to your account that Friday. So for example this Friday (9/06) we'll get paid for all walks done between 8/27-9/02.

> Do you need to bring your own leash?

No. I've done 1000+ walks and only one client didn't have a leash (I ended up stopping at a Petco and buying a cheap one just for that walk then returned it afterwards)

> How do taxes work for what you’re paid?

Wag doesn't withhold anything for taxes, so it's your responsibility to set aside enough (generally ~15-20%, depending on your earnings and state) for your tax bill at the end of the year. If you make less than $66k in a year, myfreetaxes.com is a free filing site provided by H&R Block that makes it pretty simple.

> Should you/how do you track mileage for taxes?

Yes, you can save a pretty significant amount on your tax bill by deducting mileage. The Stride app is the gold standard for this.

> How much do you realistically make per 30 minute/hour walk?

Base rates:

20 minutes: $8.40 (owner pays $14)
30 minutes: $12 (owner pays $20)
60 minutes: $18 (owner pays $30)

each additional dog: add $3 to the above (owner pays $5)

Walks that aren't getting filled may go into bonus payouts, up to the full fare that the owner paid

> How much can you make realistically in a week walking? A month?

This is highly dependent on walk availability in your area and how much you're willing to work. But assuming an 8-hour schedule and assuming you live in a city with a fairly consistent stream of walk availability throughout the day, $100-110/day is not terribly difficult.

> What are important things you’ve learned as you go? What are problems that have risen/how did you deal with them?

1. All you absolutely NEED as a walker is your smartphone, so make sure it is charged. Invest in a portable charger if necessary.
   
2. Bring a roll of poop bags. In my experience, ~50% of owners don't provide them. If you plan on doing this a while, buy the 900-pack on Amazon for 15 bucks.
   
3. Never under any circumstances click "Start walk" until the dog is leashed and you're out the door. Literally 90% of problems I've seen on this sub occur because a walker clicked "Start walk" when they shouldn't have. If for any reason you are unable to get the dog leashed and out the door (i.e. can't get in to the residence, dog is nervous/avoiding you, the dog is being aggressive, whatever) either contact the owner or request a cover from Wag. Some walkers think "I'll just click Start walk and then end it immediately and explain what happened in the notes" which is the worst possible thing you can do.
   
4. If the owner has a lockbox, make sure you close it and scramble it as soon as you remove the key. This may sound obvious, but I've seen some walkers who leave the lockbox open during a walk, which is baffling. Whether you keep the key with you during the walk is up to you (some recommend putting it back in the lockbox so you don't lose it, but I always keep it on me and in 1000 walks have never had a problem) but always close the lockbox immediately.
   
5. After the walk, assuming the owner isn't home, it's common courtesy to fill the dog's water bowl (unless there are explicit instructions otherwise). It's important to audibly explain what you're doing as you're doing it (i.e. "Let's fill up your water bowl!") so in case someone is home or the owner has a camera, they know that you're not doing something you shouldn't be.
   
6. Always knock and wait a few seconds before unlocking the door, even if the instructions don't mention anyone will be home. Because sometimes another family member or roommate or something might actually be there. If someone is home after you open the door, introduce yourself immediately with "Hi, I'm adeerable, your dog walker!"
   
7. "Whitewash" your report cards. Don't lie, but for example if the dog was pulling like crazy the whole walk, say "we had a really energetic walk around the neighborhood!" Owners don't like hearing negative shit about their dogs.
   
8. When completing your report card, finish writing what you want to write and THEN add the photo. It's easy to mis-click the "Submit" button but as long as you haven't added a photo yet, it won't send.
   
   > it would be nice to make at least $200/ month extra bare minimum. How many walks would that take? I guess I’m looking for a realistic idea/approach.
   
   $200 is roughly $230 before taxes, and most weeks I end up with 10-15% in tips. So it'd take about 17-18 30-minute walks to make $230.

1. kiss pug's forehead just above the nose often, especially while cupping their face in your palm. getting them used to you loving on them around their sensitive smooshes makes the rest easier.
   
   
2. for routine care - using a damp paper towel, wipe out nose folds and give forehead kisses. wipe again with a dry paper towel to remove moisture.
   
   
3. for care when they are rubbing their face, it is stinky, or periodic routine care - wipe with an antibacterial/antifungal wipe like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-MD-Chlorhexidine-Wipes-Ketoconazole/dp/B0180A1J38/

1. I'm somewhere in between. I bought like 10 clickers and have them everywhere, but I also use "yep!" as a marker word. I probably reinforce the marker word at lower than 100% though, so I know the clicker is really better. If you think startle reflex/ noise aversion might be an issue, we use these which are quieter and pretty cheap.
   
   
2. My dog did this a lot. Is she generally a nervous girl? For Smokey, doing stuff like sitting down on the floor, relaxing my shoulders, using a quiet, gentle voice, and yawning or licking my lips helped. Having me standing up, looking stiff/focused, and using a commanding voice was intimidating to him. As people said she may also just be settling in to a new place. If she's not yet eating a good amount of her normal dog food, this is probably the case.
   
   
3. Once you get any issues sorted out, the clicker/treat association should happen within minutes. Until then, you can use your marker word and treat when she reorients to you in the presence of prey.
   
   PS: she is gorgeous!! Congrats on your new furbaby.

I have a 70lb dog (think slightly larger than a lab) in an area that does not have ticks and fleas, to put this into perspective.

$35 / month on food
$10 / month on treats
$60 / year vet checkup
$70 / year heart worm medication
$35 / night on boarding
$20 / day on daycare (we send her about twice a month to socialize)

Upfront costs can be pretty expensive. Some of the big items:

$100 - Kennel (this is optional. our dog just really loves her box!)
$45 - Dog bed
$25 - Collar and leash
$15'ish - Water and food bowls

Food can be expensive at first. Maybe your dog hates what you get and it takes a while to find the food that he or she likes. I recommend getting sample bags of food and see what they take to. You can get these at any mom & pop pet store and some of the chains as well, you just have to ask. Same with treats.

Toys are really cheap. We dig through the discount bins to find the right texture and sound that we know our dog enjoys. Balls can be cheap, too. I recommend fun squeaky balls you can get on Amazon. I've yet to meet a dog that doesn't love them!

most pet stores are similiar in price and supply choice. Pet Value tends to be a bit higher, but otherwise all the box stores are around the same. Costco is great for larger dog beds. Amazon is truly your best bet for most pet supplies, especially poop bags. I bout these two years ago, have two dogs and am maybe half way through them.

First, what a cutie. I hope he never grows into those ears. They’re huge and adorable.

So.. You have so many options. Everything from simple toys (like the wobble kong or the tricky treat ball) to more complex puzzles (like the mad scientist or the mini mover). If your pup is pretty smart, & the fact he’s border collie/gsd suggests he probably is, he might really enjoy the mental work out the more challenging puzzles present.

If eating too quick is your main worry and you don’t always have time for feeding toys you can also get bowls specifically designed to slow dogs down. Just search “dog slow feeder bowls” on google/amazon. (The outward hound bowls are great.)

We bought one from Amazon that has worked well for us. He's fully grown, so I'm not sure how it would translate for a pupper. It has multiple adjustable straps which help it fitting properly. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164SZMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2jTUAb7QTEAAK). We also ordered a handsfree leash with multiple hand holds that I found helpful in teaching him not to pull, and it's great for hikes. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) Hope it helps!

Oh wow, I would not have guessed she was that big!

I still see JRT and Chihuahua in her shape, expression and color... I honestly don't see many other obvious characteristics she might've gotten from whatever gave her the size. Her snout looks a touch wider than a JRT or Chi's... maybe there's a touch of Boston Terrier or something in there that's rounding out her skull some and widening the muzzle a bit?

Have you thought about getting a Wisdom Panel done for her? I'm curious to know what else is in there!

p.s. this is completely unsolicited feedback, but I think she looked like she was in great condition at 17lbs :)

I bought stairs for my bed for my little guy to get up and down, and even though he still could and preferred to jump I would scold him for doing so. I made him get used to the stairs. Now about seven years later (he’s twelve now) he prefers the stairs and when he does try to jump, which is not often (maybe once-twice a month when he gets the zoomies), he only has about a 50% success rate. Its much safer and much better for their backs. My gf is a vet tech and has seen many doxies come in with back problems from jumping.

I’m really glad I got him stairs. Please don’t let your little wiener be a jumper!

He is super adorable by the way :)

EDIT: he actually has two sets of stairs. He uses this one for going up and this one for going down.

First and foremost, you need a solid leash to make running together enjoyable for you and for the pup. Once I got this leash everything got way more enjoyable (especially because Aussies love to zig zag).

Tuff Mutt Hands Free Dog Leash for Running, Walking, Hiking, Durable Dual-Handle Bungee Leash, Reflective Stitching, 4-Foot Long, Adjustable Waist Belt (Fits up to 42" waist) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_FmuDwbEFBM7TV

Everything else just comes with practice. I stop completely whenever he does a behavior I don't want and we don't start again till he is sitting to my right side. Lots of praise when he is running at the pace I am and keeping the right distance. They are smart dogs and pick up on a lot rather quickly.

Their intelligence is what leads to lots of their behavior issues. You gotta exercise that brain too.

Have a look at these toys. They have been great for our cattle dogs over the years. They tend to eat too fast so these tend to be food/game focused.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Dispensing-Medium-Large/dp/B000KV7ZGQ

https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-Smarter-Interactive-Treat-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480272473&sr=1-1&keywords=dog+food+puzzle

https://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-Hide-Interactive-Puzzle/dp/B0043A71PU/ref=sr_1_15?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480272473&sr=1-15&keywords=dog+food+puzzle

I love the above one but one of our dogs is too smart for it. She picks up the covers with her mouth and sets them aside. when she eats all she can reach she tends to turn it over to dump it out.

I'm super impressed with the bell to go out. We haven't been able to get ours to do that.

Marshall Gulch is a pretty good hike on Mount Lemmon that is dog friendly. There's some running water there, and my dog always enjoys it. A lot of people hike it with their dog off-leash though, so it may not be good if your dog is not friendly with others.

Also, tacking onto the leash comment above, a nice hands-free leash is great for hiking! I have this leash, and a Ruffwear harness that you can buy at REI in town.

Dude, those Jolly Balls are incredible. We have the Romp-n-Roll one, and the puppy LOVES it. It's easily his favorite toy. And the ball part is pretty much indestructible! (Though the rope is almost completely shredded now >.<)

Kong wobbler

I feed my dog half in her bowl, half in the wobbler and she loves it. She’s a picky eater, but loves to play. So it was perfect for us.

Here's what I would do:

Get a large dog crate ($40). There may be some used or even free online as well, if you're on Nextdoor Neighbor I'd ask there.

Use 2 cc squares and use zipties (lots!) to secure them to the sides. (like $5)

cover the bottom and platforms with coroplast ($20 but that's for a large amount)

total (without decorations) $65.

and then toys of course, and then I would either put the cage in a secure room so they can have minimally supervised play time for several hours (if you need to block under a door- cut some chicken wire, curl it under and secure with some plastic tubing to avoid scratching paint) and make the rest of the room lots of fun. i hope this is some help!

I ordered the timberwolf leash last night. Looks great. Then I found this brand -mydogscool and they are made with climbing rated rope. Got me thinking I can make something like this myself. I am going to give it a try and see what I can come up with.

Only been a dog owner for two months, so still learning a lot about dog products. My favorites so far:

Chuckit Ultra ball


Kongs


Odin treat "balls" - Soft and my pup can pick it up making it much more fun than the hard plastic kind. Found it locally for half the price on the site. You can even combine two of them to make it more difficult for them.

Gamma2 Vittles Vault Plus for food storage.

Multipet's 11.5-Inch Latex Polka Dot Globken Chicken Dog Toy Makes a great chicken noise. Not good for strong chewers.

Carlson extra tall pet gate with cat door - keeps puppy away from kitty room and food.

Cheap poop bags AmazonBasics Dog Waste Bags with Dispenser and Leash Clip

Clickers - Like this style best. Easy to press no mater how you hold it.

Depending on how intelligent and/or food motivated your dog is, puzzle feeders like this or this can really help with stimulation.

Have you also tried trick training with him? I know a good training session can cause my dog to even start panting due to her determination to figure out what I'm asking her to do!

I love and highly recommend the Freedom Harness for a front clip. It stays much more clear of the shoulder than most other front clips, fits better (has more straps to adjust), and has a clip on the back as well if you ever want to let him run around, like on a hike.

This was posted on the Austin Pets Alive Facebook page around 1 pm today (link shorteners removed):


"We are expecting several hundred more displaced pets today and this week as we continue our rescue effort for #APAHarvey. We've set up a temporary location at 7711 Burnet Rd. Suite 7723, Austin, TX 78757 for animals.


We need the following things donated ASAP: Donated (not loaned) medium & large wire dog crates (we have heard local places are running low on crates so you can buy from Amazon & get them shipped to the above address: example 1, example 2, sheets (can be used), bath & beach towels (can be used), aluminum food bowls, styrofoam bowls, dog & cat food (meat as 1st ingredient), wet canned cat food, kitty litter, aluminum baking pans (like this for litter boxes), trash bags, bleach, paper towels, dog poop bags, clorox wipes, sponges, hand brooms/dust pans, litter scoopers, leashes (all size- flat), all size martingale collars, mops, mop buckets, push brooms. Please bring donations INSIDE do not leave items outside.


We also need LOTS of volunteers today and in the next several days (volunteers must be 18+ and able to do physical labor). Please fill out this short term volunteer form before coming: https://app.betterimpact.com/Application?OrganizationGuid=3a6c8abe-0a11-4fbb-8beb-ad60b24f68a1&ApplicationFormNumber=2. We are here now so please bring items here or have them shipped to this address and show up to volunteer."

I have two crates: one for my car (Hems always rides in her crate) and one for the house. One is a more expensive brand that I can't remember because its down in the car, and one is the AmazonBasics brand. Honestly? No differences between the two - they seem exactly the same and I can't find any quality difference.

A tip for bedding: check out Ross/TjMaxx/Burlington. They have great deals on bedding/mats there, and you can get some really nice ones for rather cheap. Just make sure whatever bedding/mat you get is 100% washable. A lot aren't - and trust me "spot cleaning" isn't going to cut it after a while. You want to be able to toss that sucker in the washing machine.

Oh, one last piece of crate advice: if you get a wire crate (which I'd recommend unless you plan on flying a lot), also get a blanket that can cover the whole crate. It will help with crate training, and also creating a cozy environment. I also got a long plush toy like this, only softer that my dog uses as a pillow/head rest when she's in her crate because the mat is flat.

my puppy has one toy that he really loves, its a long grey raccoon that squeaks and makes other noises. whether he's in the crate or out, that toy keeps him busy while he wrestles with it. it also helps that we pull the toy up and he jumps up for it, so he's getting excited for it. I would try to find a toy that he really enjoys OR one of those treat dispensing puzzles https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0711Y9XTF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought that for my puppy, haven't tried it out yet.

Yes of course she's allowed in bed 😊. We have doggie steps that go up to the bed. She has no problems using them. Sometimes she even leaps off them! We actually got a chihuahua as a friend for her who is smaller than her so that she would feel like the dominant dog. I think that your baby would like that as well. She feels like the momma dog and is always watching out for the little Chi.

These are the steps we got.
Solvit PupSTEP Plus Pet Stairs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MD57OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Gmhtzb5Q7VJ0M

My dog loves this giant squeaky fur ball, and these squeaky tennis balls (but the tennis balls don't last that long). Also I know it doesn't look like much but she also really likes jute tugs like this; I think because she can get a really good grip on it. She's not a huge tugger but she is still always excited when the jute tug comes out.

I used to use the head collar, and I did get that reaction a lot. From people asking "Why is your dog wearing a muzzle?", to people simply stating "That dog's got a muzzle" as I pass, to people seeing us coming and quickly crossing the road. Really it doesn't bother me that much, I just think it's really silly that people think a thin strip of nylon can snap her mouth shut and keep her from biting or something...it really looks like the least effective muzzle haha. And really it is better to have people stop and ask before just running up and petting her. But the explanation is pretty easy: "No, she's not wearing a muzzle, it's a training tool that keeps her from pulling because she just gets so excited on walks!"

I got away from using it because I think it ended up stressing my dog out more...I use the Freedom No Pull Harness now and I love it. Worth taking a look at if you haven't tried it already, IMO! It won't prevent a dog from pulling if they're determined--I use it in conjunction with training to heel and look at me--but when my dog does decide to try to plow ahead it's way easier to handle her and the pressure is not on her neck or face.

I buy these from Canadian amazon. I love them so much. Great quality, pretty thick in comparison to other poopy bags and super cheap!
Also comes with a convenient roll holder I can just clip onto the leash.

I'm sure there's an American version.

Thanks Vegas.. another friend recommended that and you're right it definitely does help! I've also got one of these that helps a lot too:

Coastal Evolution W6110 Grooming Undercoat Rake with Rotating Teeth, Double Row https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o-viyb839XKYG

I use something like the Freedom harness of my aussie. I don't use the second leash option, and just keep it clipped to the front but I think the extra piece between the legs helps to actually keep the harness in position. I find that the easy walk can shift a lot or hangs low unless it fits perfectly which is hard to do.

http://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Training-Package/dp/B005OPZY7K

Don't buy cheap dog food.


If you're going to buy dog food for your dog, please buy more expensive food. Check the ingredients and make sure it's good. If you wouldn't eat it, why feed it to something you're responsible for?


I try to give my dogs a raw treat every few days. It's really healthy for them!

I have a dog who’s super prone to UTIs. For it’s a delightful combination of having posterior bladder displacement (her bladder sits in the wrong spot and can’t fully expand), obsessive drinking behaviors and a hooded vulva that was hiding some weird skin infection to boot. I would highly, highly recommend having your vet take a second look at her anatomical structure to make sure she doesn’t have a recessed vulva and potentially doing a more comprehensive culture from that area. In the meantime you can help things along by using wipes to keep the area clean (I like these guys, use them morning and night).

Hi! I got the harness from my mother in law but it is a Rabbitgoo No Pull Harness in a large! It's pretty nice! I think Bumi is about 45lbs (he's our lean boi) and there's still room for him to grow into it (he's 9mo). I like it a lot! I def recommend it.

In GBP this would definitely be under a fiver.

I am the champion. And artist Kate Funk puts her cat into costumes and photographs him in front of dioramas. The effect is astoundingly awesome.

Front harnesses are great; they cut so much of the dog's pulling power. We got the Tuff Mutt hands free leash and it buckles around your waist, like a belt. It also has a small bungee section so if they pull it gives just a little before stopping. It also has two handles and OH MY GOSH is it an arm saver. Our trainer recommended it for our reactive dog because it allows us to be a more solid base instead of getting our arms yanked out of our sockets. We got two, one for each dog and I never want to use a regular leash again.

This specifically is the one we got recommended by our trainer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T8RIybWSQ1WJE

But she also recommended this one as well: https://www.amazon.com/Retractable-Bungees-Protection-TaoTronics-Controlling/dp/B01M7ND6E4/ref=zg_bs_3024195011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EP76F5KNGQKZ5TY6FAQ5

1. Stuffed moose
   
   
2. IQ Treat Ball (she gets kibble in it)
   
   
3. Kong Wobbler (more kibble)
   
   
4. Treat & Train (still more kibble)
   
   
5. Snuffle mat (have I mentioned kibble?)
   
   So yeah, the only toy that has held her interest despite its inability to dispense food is the stuffed moose. I've actually put all the rest of her toys away in hopes of someday reintroducing them and having them seem novel again.

SimpleSkincareScience recommends medicated pet wipes as a fungal acne treatment; they'd be easy to pack with you.

The SSS fungal acne guide has some great product recs; I'd try Simple Micellar Water decanted into a travel spray bottle for your cleanser and Cerave Baby Cream as your moisturizer. Both are fungal acne safe, cheap and easy to find; so minimal investment if they don't work out long term.

Here's the dog training answer: get a dog training clicker and some really good dog treats, like small bits of real meat. Go outside, get the dog's attention, and wait for the dog to stop barking, even for a fraction of a second. Click the clicker and throw the treat over the fence. While the dog is eating the treat, they probably won't be barking, so click again and throw another treat. Basically the idea is to teach the dog that they get food when they're being quiet, so click and treat every time there's a moment of silence. Once the dog's figured it out, start waiting for a full second of silence before you click and treat. Then two seconds, etc. Do this for ten minutes a couple of times a day, and in a few days you'll be living next to a much quieter dog.

(For the curious, you use a clicker because it tells the dog exactly what they're being rewarded for. Most dogs can do a dozen different things in the time it takes to say "good dog" and get a treat out of your pocket, but if you can click at the exact moment they do something right, they learn what you want them to do much faster.)

I completely agree with you on the head collar, but the Freedom harness the other commenter mentioned might help. It's a front-clip harness, so when he lunges, he gets redirected (from his chest, not his face) and ends up facing you instead. It also will prevent him from putting his full weight into the lunge, so you won't get hurt either.

I feed mine Taste of the Wild. I buy the 30lb bag and it lasts us about a month. We haven't had to provide any supplemental foods and our vet has approved of her diet and how it positively affects her health. We've also noticed that her coat and skin have greatly improved from when she was first adopted which I think has something to do with her improved diet. I can imagine that as she grows older, we'll have to specialize her diet further but for now, she does great with her dry food.

I've been using this leash for almost a year and really like it. There are a couple rings on the leash that you can adjust how long the lead is as well as a hand loop that's useful when I need to keep him by my side when we are passing someone. Granted my dog is a lot smaller than this leash is good for but I've never been worried about that it was going to break when he tried to run after a rabbit or something

TaoTronics Retractable Hands Free Dog Leash with Dual Bungees for up to 150 lbs Large Dogs (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bdRKBbEGGFXCJ

When we rescued our pup, I was curious enough to do the DNA test. It was easy and took only a couple weeks. http://www.wisdompanel.com/ for more info. http://www.amazon.com/Mars-Veterinary-Wisdom-Panel-2-5/dp/B00U9AJB24 <= what I bought. It's fun to find out more info, plus it include a dna test for a gene that affects how your dog processes medication. We had to have that test done at the vet for a previous dog and it was around $40 for that alone. So, I figure for an extra $30, I don't have to wonder as much.

Btw, very cute pup and I could see potential Aussie there.

Please don't use a furminator deshedding tool, it's a blade on a handle. It cuts the guard hairs and does not remove the undercoat very well. It doesn't get down to the skin. I have two huskies, best thing is an undercoat rake. Double row of spinning pins is best ime, like this. Here is a comparison pic of a Furminator vs undercoat rake. You can see the guard hairs the furminator cut out. I brush twice a week, and using a conditioning spray (I use Stazko) helps. I brush every other day during coat blowing. Bathe as needed, about every 2 months or so or after dirty events. Dry with a high velocity dryer like the K9 II to dry quickly and blow out loose undercoat. And yes, dog fur is a condiment!

Our dog has both the Kong Wobbler and Buster Food Cube and cube keeps her busier for longer periods of time. She loves it and it drives her nuts (in a good way) because she can hear the kibble rattling around in there. We give her cube in her crate so she can't bang it around the entire house or get it stuck under furniture. We also have the Tug a Jug but it's a bit too hard for her and she looses interest. For puzzles we like Nina Ottosson toys, which are harder for her to figure out. This one is her current favorite: http://www.amazon.com/Company-Animals-Ottosson-Brick-Interactive/dp/B001KZ4WJE/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P4RYYVE86XBGC0W0Z24

We also have this one but she's figured it out already: http://www.amazon.com/Kyjen-DG40112-Dog-Toys-Puzzle/dp/B0043A71PU/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1425585371&sr=1-9&keywords=dog+puzzles

I've tried a few over the years. Recently we switched from Science Diet Advanced Fitness to http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W5SLB8?refRID=ST6TKSR0XVJR7K8C9P89&ref_=pd_bia_nav_t_1

My golden loves the new stuff. LOVES

Add ons are the worst and the best things. But some of them save SO much money. My pups squeaky balls are 50% as an add-on on Amazon. I should really spend time to make an add-on list so I remember when I make bigger carts. Thanks for hosting and welcome back! (WAIT: Are you implying that you can make a whole cart of add-on items as long as they total over $25???)

Front clip harnesses are great, so are rear/back clip harnesses if the dog isn't a puller.

With the senior dog I'd go for a fairly solid back clip harness (like this, or this - if he's got sore joints at all (which is common for the breed) then a front clip harness could be painful as they basically turn the dog if it pulls. The solid harness will give you a good amount of control, and will also feel more comfortable for your new guy.

For your younger fella, a front clip harness and some classes on nice walking on a leash would be a good idea. I walk dogs 3-4 times a week, and I find that the dogs I walk with harnesses learn really quick. I use no corrections, just food and the 300 peck method.

This is our Bambi we rescued her about this time last year. Her favorite food is pizza, and she loves chasing cats. Bambi is so big, her toys usually don't last long, she can skin a tennis ball in like 2 minutes.

She really loves ball/rope toys rope toys are her favorite, but she destroys them too quickly, ones that have a ball on it, she will tend to keep it longer.

Our past doberman,Felix had one of these in blue and it held up extremely well.


Bambi would probably appreciate these eye wipes she gets a lot of eye gunk.

My favorite thing that my doggo owns is his leash, it hooks around my waist. I love being able to be hands free on walks/runs/hikes. This is the one I have.

Dodger

Tychus

Kitiara

Piper

I have this one and I love it. Really nice quality and affordable too. I'm pretty sure it could be adjusted to fit you. I don't have an exact measurement, but I'm fairly small myself and I'd guess my waist is around 24-25". I've worn it with a thin tank top and there's still a good few inches to make it smaller.

Overstimulating sounds right to me. It’s almost like a human, if you run 3 miles every day, you’re going to be a bit stir crazy if you don’t get your 3 mile run in for a day. Your Aussie is dependent on that stimulation everyday because he’s been so active.

Try rotating between focus training and problem solving some nights and exercise other night. Aussie will literally never tire if she’s playing with a dog or chasing a frisbee. She does get drained from activities like hide and seek because its mentally draining. We’ve started to hide a toy and while she’s looking hide another toy, then give her commands like “warm, hot, cold” based on proximity to the toy and when she find Squishy we tell her “Good job, now find Bear” and she goes searching for her bear.

Instead of toys that will just get destroyed, look into toys that promote problem solving.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0798K86LR/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536457543&sr=8-3&keywords=Pupper+Pamper&dpPl=1&dpID=51HL1EmZOoL&ref=plSrch <— You can make these with 2 liter bottles but this is a good way to switch up dinner time. Don’t let your pup chew through these, he has to solve the puzzle. No brute forcing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0711Y9XTF/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1536457614&sr=8-5&keywords=dog%2Bpuzzle%2Btoys&dpPl=1&dpID=41uG8OG2guL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1 <— Same sort of thing, just changes it up so it’s a different puzzle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0038WP1YC/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1536457667&sr=8-15&keywords=dog+puzzle+toys <— I have a friend that ditched the food bowl and went with this for feeding. Just don’t let them brute force his way through it, keep your dog focused on the puzzle.

https://www.amazon.com/ZippyPaws-Woodland-Friends-Interactive-Chipmunks/dp/B008PFB3HG <— Toys like this are great for “Find the toy, then go put it in a bucket” then when the bucket is full, give a sign and you set the toy back up for him.

I got a similar one before looking back at this post! it's this one. I'm planning on putting her regular leash through it and clipping it on her collar as well. Then I'll probably be way less worried and way better at using the clicker. I usually just put the leash around my elbow and fold my arm if i'm treating and that is just giving me a lot of rug burn. lol.

EDIT: Clarity

I work at a rescue league where the health of animals is highly reguarded. This is always what I push on people to buy for their pets. Everyone who works here uses it. It's highly recommended by our medical staff as well. If you look in the review/comment section of this product you will find a similar situation. Don't be fooled by the price. Wet and dry food diet for dogs is ideal as well. You can always buy a smaller bag for a lower price.

https://www.amazon.com/Taste-Wild-Prairie-Formula-30-Pound/product-reviews/B000W5SLB8/ref=cm_cr_dp_synop?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=recent#R6IP45SKGZQRB

Are any of those toys puzzles that work her brain instead of her body? They need mental exercise too, not just physical, and sometimes getting overly tired physically can make a dog act more goofy mentally.

If you don't have puzzles for her, I'd look for a black Kong to start and feed some of her dinner out of it. They're nice for bullies b/c the dog can't just bite it open and spill all the food out after 30 seconds like a lot of plastic toys that stand up to smaller dogs for years. :D Gotta love "bully strong"!

You can also make an inexpensive answer to The Mad Scientist with water or 2 liter pop bottles, a dowel rod from the craft section of a department store, and a couple pieces of wood or a ladder. Here's a video of how it works with a Belgian Malinois, which is another SUPER intensely high-energy, and thinking, breed of dog.

Dogs still have the instinct to chase and beat something up before they eat. BUT, dogs and wolves living wild also have to pull apart a carcass before they can eat it, so that kind of problem-solving, fine-motor-skill play (taking apart stuffed toys, shaking the thunder out of a sock with a tennis ball in the toe, whatever) can do wonders for a hyper pup too. :)

Yeah, you'll want to invest in a new kennel when you can. Once he knows he can get out, he's going to try and get free everytime. So unless you have it totally secure, he's going to be out, (I also own an escape artist).

Here's a relatively cheap one on Amazon: AmazonBasics Double-Door Folding Metal Dog Crate - Medium (36x23x25 Inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QAVNWSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D9yzzbFC3S7CS

I have a variety of treat balls that keep my heeler busy and last quite a while. This Starmark ball is one of his favorites. It provides a challenge if you find some chewy treats (anything not hard and crumbly, like dog jerky) to stuff in there.

Bullymake box is a subscription box made for power chewers, there's some good durable stuff in there. Or you can buy their toys individually here.

toys that are mentally stimulating. Corgis are smart and get bored with toys that are too boring. Get some toys or puzzles that can keep their interest and/or last a long time.

My boy Frank likes nylabones that come in different shapes and flavors, Kongs with peanut butter, and toys that you roll around for food. We give him meals in a Kong Wobbler so he doesn't eat to fast and he has fun with it. The small size works well for a corgi. http://amzn.com/B004NSVIRY

The herding/nipping instinct they have from being bred to be herding dogs can be annoying. From my experience and others I've talked to, they just grow out of it. A vet tech, who's had corgis all her life, suggested getting those cheap inflated bouncy balls that they sell at Walmart, Target, Walgreens, etc.. that are kept in those big bins. Your corgi can herd those instead of you. It seemed to work for Frank.

You should also have an enzyme based cleaner for accidents during potty training. The enzymes break up the particles and get rid of the smell better than other cleaners so they won't be tempted to use it as a permanent potty stop.

I second the jolly ball. If you dislike the handle, Hubble has one with a rope through it.

Hubble also has a planet dog orbee soccer ball he loves, it is smaller than a regular soccer ball (about as big as those kid's size ones they make) but it's durable and great.

Lastly there are remote control options but they are pricier and I haven't personally tried them yet, maybe I will this summer.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DK9OW?pc_redir=1395120294&robot_redir=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BP751G

http://www.inthecompanyofdogs.com/itemdy00.aspx?T1=D13290&utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=comparison&utm_campaign=datafeed&srccode=NXCDC2

Most Labs do tend to eat with gusto. Make sure he's getting enough food. They do make some different food bowls to supposedly slow dogs down.

Interactive slow pet feeder

Skidstop slow feeder bowl

Gobble stopper bowl addition

Buster dog maze

I personally have had success with the treat type balls.

Kong wobbler

Kibble Nibbler

When my wooly Mally is blowing her coat, it is a multi-step process. Step one is using a slicker brush like /u/blounsbury linked - that helps get rid of most of the loose fur. I then move on to a rake style undercoat brush, often in conjunction with a de-matting rake. That will get the bulk of the undercoat out. The second to last step is using a metal comb to make sure all of the undercoat "chunks" are out. The final step is going over with the slicker brush for the final time.

Understand that this is a multi-day event. While the sound of "blowing the coat" sounds like something that should just suddenly happen, it takes place over a week or so. I measure my Mally's fur output in cats. Day one is usually one cat-sized lump of fur. Day two is like three. By day 3 and 4, we're usually down to a cat a day.

My Shiba uses one brush for his entire grooming process when he's blowing his coat - The Furminator. It does zip for a wooly Malamute (even the long-haired version does nothing).

Yes, I think splitting for meals is helpful because then they have more motivation to actually work on the dispenser (because they are still hungry.) This is what we have. It might be nice if your dog doesn't like the wobbler because he can just push it around with his nose and doesn't have to use his paws. https://www.amazon.com/Treat-Dispensing-Chew-Ball-Large/dp/B0009YD8NS/ref=pd_sim_199_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009YD8NS&pd_rd_r=KJ9R09QF6WAE0D2G1VAF&pd_rd_w=Mtwhr&pd_rd_wg=p9P0G&psc=1&refRID=KJ9R09QF6WAE0D2G1VAF

We used a trainer but pet smart is a great option! We chose group classes since it teaches socialization and that's where you will get bite inhibition. It will be frustrating at first bc puppy won't listen to you but stick with it!

We use several treat dispensing toys and as for the Kong I will actually soak her food in water for a bit until it absorbs some and then freeze it because she is having stomach issue so we aren't using treats. She really has to work at it to get it out. Here are some of the toys we use:

can't speak to your question, but i do appreciate the spreadsheet!

I feed my dog Taste of the Wild, which gets 4.5 from Dog Food Advisor. A couple of the flavors are 5 and a couple are 4*. Very cost effective at $45 for 30lbs.

http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/taste-of-the-wild-dog-food-dry/

I had a boxer, and the way we trained her was to get a leash that could also be tied around my waist, like this one

and then doing very short bursts of jogging, as every time I ran she would think its play time. When she would try to run faster I would stop, make her sit, and then jog again. After a week or so she got used to the rhythm and was fine. You can also incorporate treats so when she ran well without pulling you can reward her on the spot.

I had to go through this last summer with my girl. We ended up having to do surgery. I don't know how/if you deal with her getting up and down from furniture I just wanted to plug a great product I found for a really good price.

These have been AWESOME and in all honesty probably saved her life because they finally got her to stop jumping.

Don't know if you need the link but I would rather you know than not know!

Kyjen makes great dog puzzles. Moon Rover Rescue is a good one, Egg Babies, the Paw Toy, just type Kyjen into Amazon or eBay and you can find some.

Please do not use a collar for a pulling dog. She will strangle herself every time she pulls and the neck is an extremely sensitive area.

I can only recommend you what I am using with my 110 pounds Rottweiler which is this harness. It of course depends on the dog and I have to add that she is NOT a puller only when other dogs are around and she wants to play with them. But I can guarantee you that a border collie is not a strong dog. If it can hold my Rottweiler, it can definitely hold yours.

I got my guy this one and he loves it! I love watching him try to figure the different parts out.

https://www.amazon.ca/Outward-Hound-Dispensing-Exercise-Ottosson/dp/B0711Y9XTF/ref=asc_df_B0711Y9XTF/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292999120956&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12127162462042952341&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001598&hvtargid=pla-349361985826&psc=1

I am a volunteer dog walker/trainer at my local shelter and leash biting is common. She's worked up about something and doesn't have any other outlet for her energy. If she is doing it in the same place every time try walking a different direction. She may also be doing it when you turn around to go home in which case walking a loop rather than up and down the block would help. You can also bring a toy so she has something on her mouth instead of the leash when she starts to act out and a harness that the leash clips to the back of is helpful to keep the leash out of her eye line, I really love the Freedom Harness.

http://www.amazon.com/Solvit-PupSTEP-Plus-Pet-Stairs/dp/B000MD57OO/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3PCQ4WJ3LL6EA&coliid=ISZ6R0D6QH5PU


This would be really helpful for my dog who's been having trouble jumping up on furniture. This weekend me and him are probably gonna go to the park and play frisbee!! :) Thank you for the contest!

1.21 Gigawatts

We actually did the Wisdom Panel test on Zeus, and they said he is a lab + schnauzer + whippet mix, among other things.

I'm not sure I completely believe it though, because while I can not see the schnauzer in him at all, he looks and acts a lot like a whippet and has some lab characteristics as well. He also is very shepherd-y in his coat and some behaviors.

I hope that helps!

Jolly ball! We have two, they are awesome!
http://www.amazon.com/Jolly-Pet-8-Inch-Romp-n-Roll-Red/dp/B0002DK9OW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1417857906&sr=8-4&keywords=jolly+ball+dog

This is the exact one we got

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7ND6E4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493777588&sr=8-4&keywords=hands+free+dog+leash

But there are some as cheap as $15 or less. If you search for "hands free dog leash" on Amazon, you'll see the options. But I've been really happy with the one we got.

In an ideal world, yes. But most people will either use bags they have from the store or the cheap ones from the local pet store or Amazon. Neither are biodegradable. Environment friendly dog waste bags cost more. These ones on Amazon are $14 for 900 cheap bags or $26 for 900 of the biodegradable ones.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NABTGY2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3K01YO

I got my dog this. I was really lucky that when my dog was a puppy, he'd get hyper and ten minutes of fetch would do it for him. I'm not entirely familiar with the specifics of your disorder, but is it possible your pup might give you a little more energy? I don't want to assume anything but my dog definitely gave me energy when he was tiny.

Nizoral also breaks me out badly. I have fungal acne and use 1% ketoconazole wipes. They're marketed for pet use but the ingredient list looks fine to me. I've been using them for 2 months 3x a week and it keeps my fungal acne completely at bay. I get them off amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Pet-MD-Chlorhexidine-Wipes-Ketoconazole/dp/B0180A1J38/ref=sr_1_13)

Active Ingredients : Chlorhexidine 2%, and Ketoconazole 1 % in an alcohol-based solution. Inactive Ingredients: Water, Propylene Glycol, Nonoxynol-9, lactic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Glycerine, Fragrance, Methylisothiazolinone

My dog has issues with strong pulling when overexcited, and I 100% recommend a harness over a neck-collar. The weight is much more evenly distributed, so I find it about 10x easier to control her when she's overexcited. This is the one I got, for reference:
https://www.amazon.com/Rabbitgoo-Harness-Adjustable-Reflective-Material/dp/B01M8JT6FT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1538512912&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=dog+harness&psc=1

The Kong Wobbler was perfect for my pup with the same problem. The dog has to paw the dispenser to get any food out so it's great for getting energy out too! The hole is fairly large, so it's pretty easy for the food to just fall out when the dog tilts it, but I put tape on the inside to adjust the hole size, and I can keep my high energy pup eating & playing for 15-30 min! Oh and the small size can hold up to 1.5-2 cups of kibble and is plenty big, even for large dogs.

I used the Freedom No-Pull for my setter (60 lbs and skinny). Has velvet to avoid chafing. Attaching at the chest diverts some pulling energy.

Tried a flexy, because he likes to move around, but he could rip it out of my hand if i wasn't careful. Currently use a rope with clip (gloves required).

https://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Training-Package/dp/B005OPZY7K

Get an undercoat rake

A greyhound comb

And a slicker brush this is my go to.

Brush with slicker brush then go over with undercoat rake paying special attention to the neck/chest, the sides, and the back legs. Lastly run the comb through the dog making sure you get all the way down to the skin.

If needed get a detangling spray. I know Cowboy magic is a good brand.

Take him to a groomer to get him professionally blown out with a high velocity dryer. It will definitely cut back on the shedding.

Don't use a furminator desheding rake on him. All you will do is pull out the top coat and wreck it.

First make sure she isn't sick. Second make sure her kibble is a good food.

My bulldog isn't a big eater. Putting the food in a snuffle mat or a feeder toy can help, it makes eating more fun. My go-to is using a food stand (mainly to reduce chance of bloat) and mixing her food with healthy treats. I use canned pumpkin (Libby's 100%), egg, plain nonfat yogurt, cottage cheese, honey, peanut butter, blueberries, chicken/beef broth, carrots, or apple. Of course, not all of it at once. I've noticed if she's being fed the same thing for too long she gets tired of eating it. I can't blame her, I do the same thing.

Another suggestion is leaving her food down for ten minutes and if she doesn't eat it, put the food up. I haven't personally done this method, but I've heard it works.

Dog stairs like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Solvit-PupSTEP-Plus-Pet-Stairs/dp/B000MD57OO (They're good for elderly dogs of any breed, also)

For stumpier-legged dachshund mixes, ramps might be better than stairs.

http://www.amazon.com/Mars-Veterinary-Wisdom-Panel-2-5/dp/B00U9AJB24/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

To warn you I have read that it is difficult to get a refund if you purchase through Amazon instead of the actual Wisdom Panel website. That being said though I had a great experience: I received the kit very quickly with Amazon Prime, and the results were sent to me only a week after the lab received the kit.

Did you mean only outings or things you can do at home, too? We have a homemade agility course in the backyard. There are some good videos on YouTube about how to make your own inexpensive course. Alternatively you could do a rally course with just cones or similar markers. We also like interactive toys like this one.

So I’m on this same road and recently hunted through EVERYTHING that touches my face (hair products included) for ingredients that feed fungal acne... and if a product has any of those ingredients, it is booted from my routine. Period. That has helped a surprising amount. My routine is prettyyyyy bare bones at the moment, and my skin seems to LIKE it.

I also hate putting shampoo on my face because it BURNS but these ketoconazole wipes are not harsh on my skin. I’m even able to use them at morning and at night without feeling like I’m damaging my face. They’re for pets (I know, I know. Weird.) but they’ve noticeably improved my skin so far and they don’t burn. I have high hopes that being consistent with this will get my skin back to a healthy baseline.

My dog loves her Kong Wobbler.
https://www.amazon.com/KONG-PW1-Wobbler-Large/dp/B004NSVIRY/

I feed her twice daily, each time I give 3/4 of her meal on a snuff mat and 1/4 of it in the wobbler.

She's a GSP. A velcro dog that loves her people. But in the morning, when it's time for us to leave for work, she's practically pushing us out the door so she can have her wobbler.

I really like Lupine collars - I have their Martingale one in peacock. They have nice basic leashes you can get to match, too - I like their padded handles. I also have a Ruffwear Roamer as an athletic leash that I use for biking or running with my dog - it's adjustable so that you can wear it around your waist or as a normal handle, and has some bungee and a traffic handle (though they have other leashes, too, without those features). I almost always put a harness on her when we leave the house - I have the Freedom one because it has both a front and back clip, but Lupine has some nice ones, too.

Pup should always be in a kennel if you're not there! This one worked really well for my pups. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QAVNWSK?aaxitk=1LKwoTnZiyptLQiYABTvfg&pd_rd_i=B00QAVNWSK&pf_rd_p=44fc3e0f-4b9e-4ed8-b33b-363a7257163d&hsa_cr_id=4416700210801&sb-ci-n=asinImage&sb-ci-v=https%3A%2F%2Fm.media-amazon.com%2Fimages%2FI%2F91sf00skrsL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B00QAVNWSK

Make sure the crate is just big enough that pup can sit down, stand, get rotate. Make sure its not too big so that way they aren't pooping or peeing in a corner of the crate. If pup is crying when in the crate, ignore it. When she stops crying or barking, give treats. This will help for her to see it's a positive experience and not a negative one. At our house, we also feed meals in the crate and give special toys or treats in the crate.

Regular tennis balls will be cheaper, but if they need to be squeaker ones Amazon is the cheapest place I've found (they are a similar price on chewy) These work out to be a little over a dollar a piece.

Bonus, they even say happy birthday.

Can I ask why 48 specifically?

My chis love the Kong Wobbler. And it's dishwasher safe.

https://www.amazon.com/KONG-Wobbler-Treat-Dispensing-Large/dp/B004NSVIRY

Did you get a box clicker? If so you might want to try a button clicker, as they tend to be quieter. Otherwise you can muffle it by pulling your sleeve over your hand, putting your hand in your pocket, or holding it behind your back.

Seconding the Kong idea. This is my list, based on the Digital Dog Training Book linked to in the sidebar:

Puppy Immediate Needs

• puppy Kongs probably want 3–4 of these and maybe in different sizes
  
  
• metal crate (adjustable, buy for size of fully-grown dog)
  
  
• travel crate (not adjustable, buy for size of dog currently, if needed)
  
  
• fur remover x2—one for me and one for my partner
  
  
• dog appeasing pheromone plugin We use a similar one for our cats and will definitely be using it when the puppy arrives to appease the cats and also this one to make the transition from mommy's home to our home easier for the pup
  
  
• freeze-dried liver treats these tend to be "high value" treats for all dogs, so are a good place to start, but YMMV
  
  
• treat pouch
  
  Later Needs/Growing Puppy/Dog Needs
  
  
• portable water bowl
  
  
• portable water bowl
  
  
• poop bags
  
  
• adult kongs: Realtree football, Squirrel Dude, Kong biscuit ball 1, Kong biscuit ball 2, Kong genius 1, Kong genius 2, Updog Odin
  
  
• harness
  
  
• leash/collar light there's a million of these but this one doesn't need any batteries (!)
  
  
  I also have an extensive Etsy list with collars, leashes, running leashes, and tags.

P.S. (It didn't fit in the other post!) I've now tried the second feeding device that I got, the Company of Animals Interactive Feeder, and I am very happy with it; Indra seems to be too! I am alternating between feeding him in this and the Kong Wobbler. It definitely slows the process down and he has to work at getting his food, which is apparently the "mental stimulation" thing. :~)

Pal who wrote the loooong post about malassezia suggested using DOGGIE WIPES on your face cause they have ketoconazole in them. The Nizoral shampoo has the same active and has been the most effective thing I've tried so far for my bumps. Is this absolutely insane or worth a shot? I've been looking for an alternative to the shampoo cause it's so drying, but cannot find a cream with ketoconazole. I may try another anti-fungal product but I'm scared it will not be as effective. Here's a link to the doggie wipes.

Just for funsies, here's a link to the cream I'm considering. Any opinions/guidance on this is appreciated. Thanks!! ✨

Georgia o Keefe is pretty rad. What other female artists do you enjoy?
the cheaper ones work perfectly

I don't know about extra large, but you could always buy two wire play pens and hook them up, plus crate.

My set up is usually one of these, attached to a crate of the same height (not a must, but I find puppies try to get over the "shortest" part). It ends up looking like this.

I got the tuffmutt waist leash as recommended by u/phantom_and_ghost

It's great for my peace of mind. I don't have to worry about my dog escaping if I accidentally drop the leash.

https://www.amazon.com/Safari-W6116-De-matting-Comb/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499712358&sr=8-1&keywords=matt+rake

Use this for de-matting the back end. Works great and is gentle and safe. Those blades are sharp but the rounded edge is not sharpened.

https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Safari-Undercoat-Designed/dp/B0083TSC64/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499712440&sr=1-7&keywords=undercoat+rake

and

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O79wzbCFSBEAN

for de-tangling use an undercoat rake with rotating pins, and the single row static rake to pull the hair out.

https://www.amazon.com/Slicker-Dog-Cat-Grooming-Brush/dp/B00P9MZB9E/ref=sr_1_13?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499712524&sr=1-13&keywords=dog+brush+slicker

Then I'll use a slicker to make him soft and shiny.

What kinda harness you got for two?

I have this leash for two that I really like.

But I have these harnesses, they are just ok. Think I might like those more.

Rabbitgoo Dog Harness

My dog loves when I fill this ball treat dispenser with different treat.

http://www.amazon.com/Solvit-PupSTEP-Plus-Pet-Stairs/dp/B000MD57OO/ref=zg_bs_2975332011_1/192-3451477-6150151


Less strain on joints for your favorite companion! :)

I got Djangos for Christmas in 2013. I was told he was half English pointer and half boxer. I was satisfied with that so I left it alone. When I met my boyfriend last year he told me he thought Django looked like he had some pit bull in him.

I decided to get a dna test done on him, which I ordered on amazon. It said it would take 2 or 3 weeks to email me the results but I got them back a week later.

Turns out Django is:
One quarter pit bull
One quarter boxer
One quarter golden retriever
One eighth dalmatian
One eighth German short-haired pointer

The kit comes with two swabs that you use on your dog's mouth, you let them dry and you mail it in. It was well worth the 70 dollars I paid for it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00U9AJB24/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465665563&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=wisdom+2.5&dpPl=1&dpID=41Qp-l5LTsL&ref=plSrch

There are good running leashes on Amazon. They come with a waist belt and have a bungee leash so that quick jerks aren't as bad.

For example:

TaoTronics TT-PA006 Retractable Hands Free Dog Leash with Waist Wearing, Reflective Sithching & Dual Bungees for up to 150 lbs Large Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XjYkDbNMXTFNZ

I got one of these for my pup and use it all the time

I have a papillion chihuahua mix who just turned 2. If it were up to him I would play fetch all day long. When I need him to keep busy independently, I have a couple things I try:

Bully sticks. Sometimes he's into it, sometimes not. Depends on the day. Some days he'll chew on a bully stick for over an hour.

Puzzle toys like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Outward-Hound-41008-Flapper-Training/dp/B006ZTTSOE/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1463561315&sr=8-16&keywords=dog+puzzle

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NSVIRY/ref=twister_B009NMOZKM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Large/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1463561410&sr=8-25&keywords=dog+puzzle


I also rotate his toys, he loves digging through and discovering the "new" toys.

Other times I put him in his crate. This is usually when he's had exercise and play time, but is not calming down any time soon. It's funny because it takes about 5 minutes before he's fast asleep in his crate!

This looks pretty close! [Amazon ](Nina Ottoson Dog Brick Treat Puzzle Dog Toy by Outward Hound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9XTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7VY.BbGTE8GHV)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TOKTEG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is this one, the tubs are on a bar and he has to stretch up and knock them over to get food out. Takes several attempts on each vial to get them all

The other one I have is
https://www.amazon.com/TRIXIE-Pet-Products-Board-Level/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0054Q9TMA&pd_rd_r=02QJ894NE5TTNMNNYZST&pd_rd_w=vV3KY&pd_rd_wg=A544N&psc=1&refRID=02QJ894NE5TTNMNNYZST

Which he loves as well. Then one of those balls that drops treats as they roll it.

I used this kit from Amazon it is $70 (Maybe different for non-prime members?). You get the kit and have two swabs to use on the cheeks, then put them back in the box and mail it off. A box and shipping label are provided. You then activate the kit online and wait. It took about 15 days from the day I sent it off to get Missy's results. I found out about the kits on this sub! I didn't know about it either. I figured it was some highly expensive technical procedure only done by a vet :P



For best results, I think you aren't suppose to let them eat/drink for 2 hours before, or go outside and possibly get other DNA in their mouths. I'd imagine you'd want to separate your dogs if you have more than one, etc.

I myself use these. They're cheap and they work pretty darn good.

Definitely look for the owners, he/she looks healthy and cared for.

If you exhausts all avenues, there are doggy DNA tests you can do at home for less than $75

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U9AJB24/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00CAVM9SI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=03MZTFJVPG65DER3XRF1

Also take a look at "Wobbler" and "UFO" .. we have all of those, only had to replace them maybe once every 18 months or so (but they get daily use) .. rotate them so he doesn't get bored. Fill this one with Peanut Butter (smear it on the inside with the back of a spoon) you can throw it in the freezer first for an hour to stiffen the spread to make it last longer of course. And actually that is a small advantage of the ones that have the two separate parts that unscrew for cleaning (unlike RFB) .. you can add something in to them that is messy (PB) and its cool cuz you can easily clean them later. The PB makes them freaking insane for w/e is in there. So you put the snacks inside and just ONE with a little dab of PB (or cheez whizz) on it and the PB actually makes the whole process of getting them out more difficult .. so its good play for them. The only down side to those top two is that they are louder than RFB cuz hard plastic. Enjoy!

If I may make a suggestion - get a running leash if you want to run with your dog. I got this one - Tuff Mutt - but they're all pretty similar.

It frees your hands to run normally and with the leash attached to your waist and elastic any pulling is significantly reduced. Took my gal for a two mile run this morning with no problems at all.

Hope you heal up quickly!

Here it is on Amazon. It's cute to watch him haul fuzzy butt up it. :)

Yes this. We have one of these and also have an Ottosson-style puzzle toy that keeps our good boy busy for some time.

https://www.amazon.com/Ottoson-Outward-Hound-Brick-Puzzle/dp/B0711Y9XTF?ref_=w_bl_sl_ap_ap_web_12214477011

We order our dog food from Amazon. I know you don't want to waste time to have it shipped, but it's significantly cheaper online than at Petco. It's called Taste of the Wild. It's grain-free, and that helps with my bulldog's gas problems and its quality keeps the size of poops from being so big. We typically buy the salmon version, but here's the puppy formula which is also grain free.

We're about to switch him to https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007M0J9VC/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1. We're getting him off of this since he didn't like it much https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W5SLB8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We also use the dog food that comes in a tube for treats. He's definitely gained some weight in the past couple weeks so I'm trying to cut down on that.

Any brands you recommend?

I buy 100% cotton rope, like this, and use it to tie rope "bones" and other similar toys. It's fairly cheap and pet safe, plus I use it to replace ropes on other toys like this one, since he had pulled the rope completely out of it.

I have a corgi and I bought these stairs off Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MD57OO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I haven't really had any issues with them, and my corgi loves them!

• 1" Freedom No Pull Harness (Though I think I got mine on ebay.)
  
• Collar and leash are nothing special, just from the pet store. Collar is 1" flat buckle and leash is a 1" wide 6' long.
  
• Crate is TBD. We had a 40" (I think) wire Kong crate, but I'm trying to find a good plastic carrier style one to replace it with.

We bought our goldendoodle some puzzle toys. These help a lot. Unfortunately he has figured them out and just solves it in seconds now lol.

https://www.amazon.com/TRIXIE-Pet-Products-Board-Level/dp/B0054Q9TMA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518452513&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+puzzle&dpID=416kgbG3sHL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Mad-Scientist-Dogs-Level/dp/B003TOKTEG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1518452513&sr=8-9&keywords=dog+puzzle

Adding to the snuffle mat suggestions - you can get all sorts of puzzles feeders too. Or for wet food use a Kong - freeze it for extra difficulty!

We use these:

GREEN Interactive Feeder, Large https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009CKHXYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ih.YCb8E5RS2S

Nina Ottosson Dog Tornado Treat Puzzle Dog Toy by Outward Hound https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07239T47Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ih.YCbFX6XDKA

The second looks harder but the first actually takes him long and is easier for us to set up! But we try to use both to change things up.

Treat Dispensing Chew Ball, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YD8NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_INc4DbZ8K7JXS

Can't recommend these enough, my boy loves them and they can stand against his chewing for a good bit. I think kongs are about the only thing that we've bought that last the longest, we bought the large black one.

My wife bought the pup a tire and rope toy that lasts as well, but it's an outside toy since he flings the tire by the rope and it becomes a morning star.

My dog had a few mishaps when younger so now she barks and moans to get up the bed. I used to have a small ladder for her and it helped wonders.
Maybe that could be a good thing for your babe? make it easier for him to grab a midnight drink or bite.
https://www.amazon.com/Solvit-PupSTEP-Plus-Pet-Stairs/dp/B000MD57OO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485004708&sr=8-3&keywords=pet+ladder

$45 for a 30lb bag Taste of the Wild. Sometimes he gets buffalo breath, but he scarfs this shit down like noone's business. I remember this particular type getting an A or A- on one of those food rating sites, the top ingredients are all meat.

Yep, my dog would do the inhale-barf-repeat cycle with a regular bowl. Got one of these slow feeder bowls, and it's made a night and day difference - not only does she eat slower, but her overall digestion is actually doing better.

I bought this one for my German Shepherd mix. So much better than holding a leash. It seems trivial but it helps me focus on myself and my run. It has multiple clip points on the belt part and on the leash so you can make it shorter if needed.

Can’t recommend one of these enough It has saved my shoulder on countless occasions.

I don't use a furminator because I'm worried about coat breakage, but in moderation I think they are the easiest way to deal with shedding!

For Aussie coat I think a rubber curry comb would work very well. I also like a metal shedding blade. Looks weird, but they really pull hair off quickly- I would try to get one in an appropriate size for your dog. They make them big for horses, but those are kind of hard to use on smaller dogs. Lastly, for any breed with an undercoat an undercoat rake is essential- it basically will brush mainly the undercoat. I have a brush similar to the 'coat king' mentioned here (it is basically an undercoat rake) and it is the tool I use the 90% of the time I am brushing my dog.

Try something like this first - our vet recommended them after we started dealing with some catne

Cut the pads In half and then gently wipe its chin


Pet MD Chlorhexidine Wipes with Ketoconazole and Aloe for Cats and Dogs, 50 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180A1J38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ckHYDb9VSZQK9

We have been feeding our dogs Taste of the Wild for quite some time now, great quality

"malassezia furfur" is often called a yeast or yeast like. "one should always bear in mind that Malassezia yeasts are integral components of the skin microbiota, and therefore the therapeutic target should be controlling the Malassezia population rather than eradicating it."

usually means treating the flair up, then using products that don't feed them. It need a long term treatment. Like a nizoral face mask once a month or "Stridex in the doggy box" as SimpleSkinCareScience puts it.

Very happy with their Paper Shredder, much less so with their poop bags (not reliably fully perforated).

I can see whippet. You can always do a DNA test on her. It's not cheap, but it's an easy way to confirm the different breeds you've got in a mix:
http://www.amazon.com/Mars-Veterinary-Wisdom-Panel-2-5/dp/B00U9AJB24/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449368698&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+dna+test+kit

Yeah, you’re most likely not going to be able to find the exact top for your pen. You can either purchase a pen with top, or a crate for $42 that has similar dimensions to your pen.

AmazonBasics Double-Door Folding Metal Dog Crate - Medium (36x23x25 Inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QAVNWSK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W8wZAbYE09QWE

I've been buying this one and happy with it.

I think a carabiner would work just fine in your case.

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Mutt-Dual-Handle-Reflective-Adjustable/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511061925&sr=8-5&keywords=Dog+running+belt&dpID=51hlmcs%252B3fL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You already have the bungee leash and the harness, just clip it to you and you're good to go.

Wisdom Panel 2.5 (which is what I used) is $70 on Amazon right now! In my opinion, unless you think your dog is likely to be part or all of a really rare breed, that one is more than sufficient.