Reddit mentions: The best doorbells

Hello! This sounds like a stressful situation for you, so I have a couple of suggestions that may help you gain some control again. I saw another commenter suggest a gps watch. I think that is a great idea. I suggest getting him something like this watch. I suggest presenting it as a gift, and not a punishment tracker. A gift he will hopefully cherish and want to have on him all the time. You will hopefully not have to resort to using it, but it would be a great tool if you wanted a piece of mind or were unable to locate him. And as for the sneaking off I would simply install these on his door and windows. I think that he may be taking off to test his boundaries, or maybe he has a desire to adventure a little bit. Maybe you could start going on walks with him after dinner or whenever you may be able to spare 10-20 minutes. I hope some of these things can help you get some piece of mind :)

I have two Ring Pro video doorbells connected to a mechanical chime. I ran brand new doorbell wire to support this installation. I started by using the 16V 10VA transformer that came with the chime.

That worked successfully for a couple of weeks. But then one of the Ring Pro's started going offline due to low voltage.

To solve this problem, I purchased a multiple voltage transformer that could provide either 8V, 16V, or 24V @ 20VA. I started by configuring the transformer to output 16V. The Ring Pros were happy with this setting (that is to say that they didn't go offline anymore due to low voltage). However, in this configuration, my mechanical chime was vibrating constantly (that is, when I removed the chime's cover, I could see that one of the chime "pistons" was continuously moving up and down).

I then changed the transformer to output 24V, and I'm happy to report that everything is now working perfectly. Ring Pros are happy with the voltage, and the chime does not vibrate.

Problem solved!

This is the transformer I'm using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PO7MY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps.

I'm in the same boat. According to this guy, it doesn't look like it fits quite right.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ringdoorbell/comments/6qsi0j/video_doorbell_2_wedge_kit/

I found this one on Amazon that says it's compatible with the 2, but I'm not sold on the slide mechanism it uses and am looking for other possible options.

https://www.amazon.com/ADJUSTABLE-Doorbell-Original-Homono-Adjustment/dp/B076KRKV8Y

Edit: I called their support line, and they seemed confused that there wasn't a corner wedge in the box, and are sending me a wedge for free. Yay. But looking at the box, there clearly isn't space for a wedge. This is some newer "Ring 2 + Chime" box deal from Costco, and I'm pretty sure whoever designed it decided to just not include the wedges. I found an unboxing video online so you can compare what the standard Ring 2 box looks like compared to this:

https://imgur.com/a/XE9i0

This box wasn't very well thought out. There is a little bag of screws underneath the battery, and a little bag of screws underneath the Ring, but no screws were put in the blue hardware box that has plenty of free space.

I just bought mine and had a similar issue as yours. I figured out that it wasn't getting enough juice even though it was the minimum required to run the doorbell. It would constantly be good voltage during the day but once it hit night time and night vision kicked in it would freeze up and disconnect. Ring recommend I upgrade my transformer and provided me with the Amazon link since the one they sell was sold out. I bought It and so far the Ring doorbell been has running flawless with no issues such as freezes or disconnects.

Link in case you wanted to try.

https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-C907-16V-30VA-Transformer/dp/B001POBN92/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522996843&sr=8-2&keywords=16v+20va

Added note for the issue if having to go and buy a new transformer. Ring issued me a free chime which was cool of them.

Security: Look at it this way, How often are you opening windows, and forgetting to close and relock them? A contact sensor only works at the point of contact. IE, If the window is broken into (The glass is broken), the contact sensor will still show closed.

There goes the security argument out the window.

As far as automation, sure, sensors on windows would be a plus, but if you're doing something just checking if ANY window is open, You might try a hardwired solution and wire it to one sensor. You can get hardwired contacts for somewhere around 3 USD a pop. Combine that with one Ecolink door and window sensor (That has a hardwire port on it) and you'd be good to go.

Homeassistant supports Alarm Decoder and Envisalink (Two solutions I used just for this purpose) as well as a couple of others, but if youve already got a hardwired solution, That'd be your way to go.

High School Spanish

• Dry erase pockets. Absolutely my #1. I use a white sheet of paper in them to make it a mini white board, or you can slide in a worksheet and they can write on it and then erase it - fewer copies! We use these all the time to play games, practice verb conjugations and other grammar, etc. I have enough for everyone to get their own, or sometimes they work in partners or groups.
  
• Cotton make-up remover rounds. These make great erasers for the mini whiteboards.
  
• Organizer drawers. Great for however the heck you want to organize 100000 things.
  
• Multi-color Jenga sets. You can make the different blocks represent different types of challenges - I like to use the 6 colors to match the 6 personal pronouns r 6 tenses of whatever. If you pull that color block, you have to make a sentence in the corresponding form for whatever we're practicing.
  
• I put a supply box in the middle of each table (groups of 4) with pens, pencils, erasers, white=out, highlighters, paper clips, scissors, and glue. That way they don't have to ask me for things. Things don't disappear as often as you'd think - more often I find stuff the kids leave behind and throw it in.
  
• Index cards. Great for millions of things.
  
• Giant foam dice.
  
• Essential oil diffuser. Kids are smelly.
  
• Hand sanitizer and Clorox wipes. Kids are gross.
  
• My first year, I had kids make final project posters explaining concepts (present tense, preterite/imperfect, ser/estar, etc.) as review. Now I can hang them up in the classroom. They're way more artistic than I am and it's a free source of classroom decor/resources.
  
• Flyswatters - for the flyswatter game. (Look it up if you don't know it - this could be used in any subject!)
  
• A variety of balls in different sizes - a beach ball (with the 6 pronouns on it), light-up balls, etc.
  
• Play-Doh - can be used as sculpting pictionary and the kids love it.
  
• Playing cards.
  
• An electronic doorbell. This one gets weird looks from the kids, but it's great. You plug it in wherever, and if you need kids to STFU or stop what they're doing, rather than try to make yourself heard, you just hit the button and the tone goes off.
  
• Anything that helps you color code. I had a different color folder for each section and I put all their work in there so I never had to spend time searching - I could tell at a glance.
  
• Binder clips of all sizes.
  
• An emergency kit - mine had bandaids, Advil, make-up remover wipes, a lint roller, contact solution, cough drops, floss, a toothbrush and toothpaste, feminine hygiene products, etc. I avoided a lot of kids going to the nurse for band-aids and cough drops, and the rest was for me. I kept it all in a box behind my desk.
  
• A clicker/pointer for my computer/projector.
  
  ​
  
  I think that's it... I had other stuff for decoration but those are the functional things!

If the issue persists, may I offer the advice of a motion detector of a sort? Will definitely help so you don’t have to actively wait for the little one to come crawling out for food/water. Good luck, thanks for the update!

For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.

I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.

Fan Control (speed only, not light)

Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)

Door/window sensor

Dimmer switch

Garage door opener

Plug in outlet

So the main level has every door pre-wired and all windows that open on the main level pre-wired as well. Pre-wired door photos.

I assume you were talking about these Ecolink sensors? Just curious why go for a z-wave sensor and also hardwire it? Is this for redundancy?

I came across these that mount flush inside the door and I think would be hardwired the same way as the Ecolink sensor (GPIOs on a rPi in my case)? That way they're completely invisible and a lot less expensive to outfit every door and window. I don't know if these would work well for the front door that has the pre-wire on the hinge side of the door (depending on how far apart they need to get), but they should work for the other door that has the wires on the deadbolt side?

Again, super new to this, so I may be missing something. I really appreciate the help!

You mean a doorbell? xD There are already products you can use instead. Called like ''mail chimes, mail sensors etc'' -Some with pretty reasonable prices on a few of em if you look around.

https://www.amazon.com/Mail-Chime-MAIL-1200-Wireless-System/dp/B00103FDDU

here's one on amazon. Hope you find what you're after!

Go control didn't go out of business, it's just that the combo packs are a great deal for the consumer, so they aren't really available anymore. You have to buy the pieces separately.

I use the go control siren and it's great.

I also use these door and window sensors which work great and are cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPIYJWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's what I figured you had, so you'd need to upgrade the transformer for the Pro. The Nutone C907 is 16VAC@30VA and the one I generally use. https://smile.amazon.com/NuTone-C907-16V-30VA-Transformer/dp/B001POBN92/

Just shut off the breaker that powers the transformer and its a like for like swap (though the 30VA transformer is physically larger, the connections are the same). And then just install the Ring Pro in place of the button. And install the Pro Power Kit's black wires with one under the screw for the Trans terminal on the Doorbell chime, and the other under the screw corresponding to the button you're using (front or rear). So usually it would be front+trans, and it doesn't matter which wire goes under which terminal. Just make sure you leave the existing wires in place. It just piggybacks on those two terminals. Then restore power to the transformer and you should be in business. Note that it can take up to 20 minutes before its ready to setup, since it will charge up the little battery that is inside that it uses to bridge the power when it has to ring the mechanical chime, which causes it to lose access to AC power for a few seconds. That's also why it needs the bigger transformer, so it doesn't use that battery for other purposes, like supplementing an undersized transfomer, which would kill that battery in a year, vs 5-10 years with normal use. So to use the Pro, you definitely want to upgrade the transformer.

I'd recommend swapping the transfomer and keeping the Pro, rather than downgrading the Ring. The Pro is a much better device with the pixel-based detection and you'll get ~1 min videos plus the event that triggered the alert, vs the battery models (Doorbell 1&2) which only record 30 seconds, and only after they're woken up by motion, which means the event that triggered them is not recorded on battery devices. Plus the motion zones are so much better than relying on PIR detection that is imprecise.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWLZWHP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IXPNBb0ZVQBZS is the one I have. I use the Smart Life app as the central management. You can use it and other automation apps to have it set off a siren if you have one, etc. I'd also recommend a Ring or Nest camera to go nearby.

Best of luck in getting this sorted out.

So a bit more information. I took some time to check all my wires and they all look good from what I can tell.

A few notes: Our ring is pretty warm to the touch. I don't know if that's normal.

Anytime I check the device health, for voltage it's always green. I've never seen it be anything else.

Our condo is at least 30 years old and I would guess the doorbell wiring is about the same.

When we got the ring, I ended up getting a new Doorbell chime, this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VH5ILI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and even though it came with a transformer, I didn't use it. I had forgotten that til this morning when I was checking thing. The existing one was rated with enough power so I left it. But more than that, I didn't know how to replace the old one due to its location. (See photo below.) The transformer is located in our hot water heater, just outside the front door.

I'm now wondering if I need to somehow install the new transformer after all. The question is how?

Imgur

Thanks for any help.

I don't have any automation yet, still reading up. As well as a tilt sensor, you could probably also use a window/door sensor but it definitely looks like the tilt/sensor is easier to install as it is one piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/

The normal wireless doorbell (not motion detecting) I found one on sale even cheaper for less than $20 than actually has an even farther range (500+ feet) with 4.7/5 stars that has a great design with multiple colors here.

The motion detecting doorbell can be found here for just around $20 and has 4/5 stars with a 500+ feet range. You can choose between an "LED motion sensor doorbell", a "PIR motion sensing doorbell" (both have 50 different alert sounds) or a "recordable voice alert motion sensor doorbell" which will say whatever programmed voice you have in there (or normal alarm sound) when motion is detected. All of them list the TONS of different features each one can be used for other than just a motion sensor doorbell and are all customizable. They are all on the same page you just click on the one you want. Quite amazing for the price.

Not sure what one you were referring to so I just left both in my post.

I have the exact same setup and for $8 I got this swivel mount and it works great. It also helps with the night vision since the brick was causing issues:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07457B842

Here is what it looks like on my door:
https://i.imgur.com/6m8YSwQ.jpg

> DH has planned to put a sign on our door that says not to ring the doorbell or knock (see: dogs).

So I have such a sign...and it only half worked. :| I was so pissed. Because I too have dogs. And dogs are punks. lol


Anyway. I ended up trying out this knock nanny and OMG. It's been amazing because it literally covers the fucking doorbell. So now I have a sign on our door where people would knock saying "DON'T KNOCK" and then an actual cover on the doorbell that has stickers that you can put that says "QUIET!" or whatever you want and it's been soooooo effective.

You can go with something like this, which has terminals under the cover for you to wire external sensors to. I had embedded contact sensors in my exterior doors from an old (previous owner's) home security system. I just took the existing wiring, stripped the jacket back, used a multimeter to test resistance and verify the hardwired sensors still worked (installer had used 4-wire on one of the runs, even though only 2 were used, so I also had to verify which wires), and wired it into the sensor.

Here's a video I found of the terminals for external sensors.

Now I have a sleek z-wave door sensor install, with the wireless sensors tucked out of sight. Hopefully that helps!

Nexia Z-Wave Doorbell Sensor, DB100Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VVO9QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a0FpDb7T6BAQC

Wires in line with your existing doorbell wiring and works with any z wave hub. Super simple and works great.

I think your most elegant solution would be to use this door sensor. It has 2 contacts inside that can be hooked up to preexisting wiring (aka already installed door sensor). I think one contact wired to each side of the contacts of the doorbell would work. When the button is pressed, it completes the circuit. You could also get creative and mount this back by the chime, just figure out which wires to hook it up to.

EcoLink Door sensor on Amazon for $29 works great. You add it as a Z-Wave sensor and it works fast and consistently.

Ecolink Intelligent Technology Z-Wave Door & Window Sensor, White & Brown (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ufrnyb2JP9NZN

Yes, I understand how the box opens. I would use a tilt switch to turn the device on and check for mail. It wouldn't have like, exposed wires hanging out everywhere. It would just be a small box in a nice case that sits on the bottom.

There are commercial products that do the same thing, so I'm kind of hoping that if I give it a nice professional and discreet look it shouldn't cause any problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Mail-Chime-MAIL-1200-Wireless-System/dp/B00103FDDU/

Ring $100/yr and save an extra $20. The Ring Pro is solid, they are now in a 3gen for it which I just received 2 days ago as a replacement. (Old Pro was marked as needed replacing by ring for some reason). To do it right make sure you have the right transformer. Ring offers one but you can find a NuTone on Amazon a bit cheaper. .
The Alarm is solid, zwave+ platform (also zigbee) and don’t forget to get the smoke alarms so you can print out a full cert to give to your home owners for a discount on premium.
Within the last few days, Amazon alexa released the Guard update turning all your echos into smoke/co listeners and glass break detectors. IMO, it was the last thing missing from the ring alarm.
The issue with the pro is running the wrong transformers to power it. My 1st pro lasted 6mo, 2nd 1.5yrs and now I got my 3rd which has a slight different build, they also included 2 angle wedges with the unit.
The smart lock thing is slick, just make sure to visit their site to see which is compatible.

Lastly, if you’re going all in with Ring, stay away from battery cameras and invest in a mesh system that has triband and mu-Mimo to prepare you for the future of IOT.

GOOD LUCK!

AI-cluster WiFi Door and Windows Sensor Magnets Smart Phone APP Control Doorbell Compatible with Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT,Wireless Security Alarm Door Open Chime for Home Bussiness Burglar Alert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWLZWHP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XFV9BbT6A5VCE
The interesting thing is the app recognizes the sensors and I am able to create the routines, they just never work.

You could probably look into something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-AVANTEK-Waterpoof-Doorbell-Operating/dp/B076X3HRRF

Would be way easier than DIY something. But definetly pick up some esp8266/esp32 and have a lot fun with them anyways. :D

I'll let the more electrically inclined reply, I just know from an older discussion about this. I think you were able to test somewhere on the chime itself? I would recommend getting a bigger transformer either way. This one works perfectly and provides plenty of power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1. https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Z-Wave-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555866&sr=1-1&keywords=zwave+window+sensor
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Everspring-Z-Wave-Water-Flood-Sensor/dp/B006TG9W4Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555890&sr=1-1&keywords=water+leak+zwave
   
   
3. Same sensor as one, just seal it with silicone
   
   
4. It's natively supported by ST.
   
   
5. Personal opinion, throwing it out before it gets the best of you.

You'd need window and door sensors, like these, a hub to interpret (I recommend hass.io or SmartThings) and an IFTTT recipe to interact with your thermostat.

You'd be better off asking this question in /r/HomeAutomation.

No, they will still recommend a higher one as soon as you have any issues.
I had the 10VA at first and it seemed to work fine, but eventually it seems it affects the internals of the unit causing issues.

I'd save the headache and get a new one.
This is the one I got on Amazon for $24:
NuTone C907 16V, 30VA Transformer

It replaced my existing one with little effort.

I hope this doesn’t come off as rude. I know your son was just trying to be helpful, I’d worry about alerting people that you work nights though. If I may suggest the “nanny knocker” It works great for me, and prevents people from ringing the bell. Here’s a link if you’re interested.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OABOHRM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1527394509&sr=8-1&keywords=nanny+knocker&dpPl=1&dpID=51dmnooqavL&ref=plSrch

Ended up getting the transformerto fit in the old box. Working fine at 16V 30va setting of the transformer (vs 24V). Used 3 pairs of wire total with this heat shrink tubing and these heat shrink solder wire connectors. Thanks all.

Seems like you have a small transformer. It looks like it says 5VA which is small. Get one that is 30VA and outputs 16vac. Like this one NuTone C907 16V, 30VA Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001POBN92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hA1KAb4T9SPQY

That's the first step. Then see if your ring pro can function properly.

The other answers here are incomplete. According to the Nest website, you need:

"Nest Hello needs to be powered by wires delivering 16- 24 VAC, and at least 10 VA. There are a few ways to check the voltage:"

You need to check your transformer again and make sure it says it provide at least 10 VA. If it doesn't say, then it may or may not work. I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PO7MY2/

It has the required voltages (16 and 24) and power output (20 VA). My original transformer was only good for 5 VA.

Most people would recommend a 16v/30VA like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-C907-16V-30VA-Transformer/dp/B001POBN92/ref=sr_1_6?crid=274VP6GZXISVI&keywords=16v+30va+doorbell+transformer&qid=1567749968&s=gateway&sprefix=16v%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-6

That's weird that your transformer doesn't show a voltage rating. Are you sure you're looking at the right thing?

I went and took everything apart and found the manuals, it is actually really straight forward. You just need a [transformer] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1) which you can pick up for not much to turn the 100~110v to 16v, and you are good to go. Right now the video display unit does that but for a clean install I want that thing gone. And right now Best Buy has a killer deal on the Ring Pro I might have to go all in.

Ecolink Intelligent Technology Z-Wave Easy Install, Battery Operated, White & Brown (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wGXvybTMAV6VJ is what I have for a door sensor. But you'll just have to keep looking for something a bit cheaper.

I looked for this about a year ago and never found anything reliable. Ended up using several ecolink door sensors which have a dry contact port if you open them up. Works pretty reliably fortunately.

https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU

Should be noted that I combined many of the individual sensors in to zones, like all the upstairs windows are 1 zone, all downstairs windows... Doors are individual.

(Not an electrician) The transformer will probably not power 2 doorbells. However, you could easily power a second one using a third party plug-in power adapter that you could hide somewhere. Like this one. Just be sure to double-check your ratings for where you live.

I have this RCA Doorbell (which I think might actually be a Hikvision clone) and it works great. Getting the login creds was a little tricky. I finally found in an obscure forum post (on page 37!!) that the username is ‘admin’ and the password is a 5 digit number found under the cover + ‘admin’. After I got that sorted it pulled right up via ONVIF. It’s actually faster to look at the live view on DS Cam than it is to use the app that RCA made.

There are a lot of options out there for basic home automation. None are particularly cheap, but also not outrageously expensive. As a thought, if I were going to set this up in my place, using what I have in place:


SmartThings Hub

z-wave compatible outlet

z-wave compatible door sensor


Have the outlet turn on every time the door sensor closes and turn off when it opens.

As an alternative, you could use a motion sensor in the room, but some people may find that a bit creepy.

You can definitely get outlets and various sensors cheaper in other places, such as monoprice.

I used these two and they work pretty well together. Also I can add whatever sounds I want to it.

Nexia Z-Wave Doorbell Sensor, DB100Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VVO9QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bj2zCbZGXMSRZ

NuTone LA600WH Universal Wired/Wireless MP3 Doorbell Mechanism, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009DG6EOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ll2zCb7WHJ9XM

If you go that route I'd recommend this.

Basically turn off the circuit breaker for it, unscrew, then wire nut the two wires in. Like AstroZombie said if you have some electrical experience it's not difficult.

Do you have a basement? My transformer was located on a lightbulb socket like this one. I ended up upgrading from my 16v to a 24v since I have front and back doorbells, and the chime wasn't working properly. I also have a better connection with the 24v.

I tried one of these RCA (generic really, lots of rebranded versions available) doorbells and it kind of worked.

I didn't want a closed ecosystem camera becaues i wanted it to integrate with my Blue Iris camera software, and this did...almost. Using the included and free cloud app, it worked fairly well. But the video stream that i was able to pull to Blue Iris was only about 1 frame every few seconds. it was just unusable.

But it ran off the standard doorbell power so installation was a breeze, it just wasn't for me.

Here is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Hope the install goes well!

Or get one of these.

Best $10 I ever spent.

I have one of these. Works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

30A. Works like a charm.

Some of the window/door sensors allow you to connect a pair of wires which in this case would allow you to connect alarm wire to the sensor and trigger the z-wave part by pressing the doorbell button connected to the other end of the wire.
I used this one: https://amzn.com/B00HPIYJWU

Once you can send a z-wave command via the doorbell button then you can make it do a number of things. I trigger an MP3 using this z-wave doorbell: https://amzn.com/B0182XG27Q (note that bad reviews are related the the useless wireless button, the actual device is really useful as you can add many other sounds and trigger them with any number of z-wave devices) as well as flash the strobe on a couple of these: https://amzn.com/B00MNYSEKY. Other people have it flash lights, play sounds from their Sonos speakers etc.
This all is assuming you have some sort of HA hub as well.

Same. I've got the one below and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/SadoTech-Wireless-Doorbell-Operating-Batteries/dp/B00FR4YQYK/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453103&sr=1-4&keywords=wireless+doorbell

Lowe's model: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-Multi-Color-Doorbell-Transformer/3482857

The one many people here prefer:
NuTone C907 16V, 30VA Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001POBN92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UAz-AbJNKY54Y

I personally went to Lowe's since I could return it if it didn't work. Mines been great though.

I use the nexia doorbell sensor https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017VVO9QQ?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t1

You just wire it right into your doorbell chime. Works great for me with SmartThings.

The power pack is designed to run power directly to the doorbell and bypassing the chime (so the power doesn't have to run through the chime first and risk burning it out). At 12 va, you don't have enough power. You need to replace your existing transformer with a more powerful one. Here the one most of us recommends: https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-C907-16V-30VA-Transformer/dp/B001POBN92

If you are slightly handy, it is an easy replacement, especially if you have access to it. Just turn off the power first.

This new transformer will allow the device to be powered and allow your chime to complete a full ding-dong cycle. I had an underpowered transformer (16 va). The device would stay powered, but the mechanical chime either didn't work or wouldn't complete a full ringing cycle.

I would return the doorbell transformer and buy a plug-in AC transformer designed for a security panel, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Doorbell-Supply-Battery-Charger/dp/B077XTJBXV?ref_=Oct_CABSellerC_6291372011_1&pf_rd_r=YEVEKQSAG642WEWCS5CA&pf_rd_p=52d2698a-aac9-5fff-be49-ac42f531f549&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-5&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=6291372011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

AI-Cluster WiFi Door and Windows Sensor Magnets Smart Phone Controlled Doorbell Compatible with Alexa, Google Assistant, IFTTT, Wireless Security Alarm, Door Open Chime for Home Or Business Alert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWLZWHP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SvC4DbXNDBZ1F

I have the Pro set up as well. Looks like what was happening when I set mine up. Come to find out that since I had it at an older house, the doorbell transformer wasn't strong enough and causing it to 'reset' since it would drop power and 'reconnect' back to power. It was only a 10VA transformer. I read it somewhere on some forum that you need to make sure your doorbell transformer is around 30VA. I bought this one off Amazon, installed it and have not had any issues since. The flashing typically means it's in setup mode waiting to connect (even though you may have already connected it once before).

Like this that allows you to connect external wires, so you can connect the original switch to it.

Wireless doorbells are fairly cheap and easy to install. Use a command strip so you can take it off without damaging anything.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RCSU0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_haCPzbTG41VXQ

Here is what I got
Transformer:
https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-C907-16V-30VA-Transformer/dp/B001POBN92/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521326571&sr=8-5&keywords=doorbell+transformer

Chime:
https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-LA11WH-Decorative-Two-Note-Textured/dp/B001EG272I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521326631&sr=8-5&keywords=nutone+chime

16V is enough, what matters is the power number. Nest require at least 10VA. 30VA is enough for 3 smart doorbell.

You can buy a wireless doorbell system with LED mode for pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RCSU0WQ

Thanks for the info! The transformer I am using is this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-Doorbell-Transformer-Compatible-Honeywell/dp/B07L9X9V57/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Thermostat+transformer&qid=1559249379&s=hi&sr=1-4


if I bypass (power only the ecobee I am fine, boot up no problem. I am certain the connections to the LG panel are not loose. I assume 40 VA should be sufficient?

This is the one that I ordered.

NuTone C907 16V, 30VA Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001POBN92

The one you listed above showed 20-30VA so I thought I would go with a single voltage transformer that had only 30VA. I am glad to hear it is working for you though.

I've had my eye on this RCA one for $130. I use Blue Iris and found it to be one of the only capable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077KW2T1H/?coliid=IWGRFRY9IMBNY&colid=1M6F43O373L11&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

​

We bought this and it's been a life saver! We order so much from Amazon too, and have over protective dogs, and at most we get a light knock on the door or nothing at all - no issues with the doorbell because they literally can't ring it!

Knock Nanny Door Bell Cover, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OABOHRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rTLgybWWB05D0

Anyone needing a good 16V doorbell transformer should get this:
https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-C907-16V-30VA-Transformer/dp/B001POBN92/

It is 30 Watts instead of the standard 10 watts you find at big-box stores.

Check your doorbell transformer. We had a 16V 10VA when I first installed the Ring Pro and was getting video issues and the mechanical bell would barely ding (not full ding dong; we have 2 mechanical bells).

Replaced the transformer with a 16V 30VA (from Amazon) and it's all good now.

EDIT: Adding link to the transformer I ordered and installed: https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-C907-16V-30VA-Transformer/dp/B001POBN92/

That particular transformer from HD doesn't have enough power for the Ring Pro.

You'll need at least 16VAC/30VA. This is the one I use for my Ring Pro: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92


It is wired to a 120V line, then sends 16VAC down two wires to the location of the doorbell/Ring Pro. That would be the most straightforward solution if you want to utilize Ring Chimes instead of doorbell chimes inside.

Installed this transformer and directly ran the wire to the Ring Video Doorbell Pro a few months back (No existing chime, and brand new wiring direct to Ring Doorbell PRO).

I have zero issues with voltage/power until this morning when I noticed the red lighting bolt icon on my camera.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is this a bug, or am I missing something? Curious if this is a known issue or something else I can solve for with a software update, etc.?

https://imgur.com/A3P3zMh

I'd put a motion sensing buzzer in there or something. I have no idea how effective that would be but it's worth a shot.

Edit: There's this: http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Motion-Sensor-remote-controls/dp/B002B96XWW


A some search results came up with DIY buzzer circuits built for cats, so if you wanted to DIY it there's plenty of info online.

If all you need is a transformer with the specs from OP, take a look at this transformer, it looks like the specs you are asking for. I searched for “120vac to 24vac 30W transformer” if you want to look for something else.

As long as you connect to the right terminal you should get 24V 30W output.

Here you go:

Record 5-20 sec of .mp3, and make it your doorbell . Change the song/sound whenever you feel like it. Now you can have a nice guitar sound if you want one.

A doorchain is for the appearance of security, anyway. You don't even need to kick them in, a sharp shove will break most of them.

As for the bell issue, assuming you don't get evicted, have you considered something like this? (There are plenty of others if you care about styling, but I think this was the cheapest).

I got this at the recommendation of Ring customer support based on my physical doorbell model: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92/

The hardwire issue can resolved by just buying one of these. I use this and you can just plug in the doorbell straight to an outlet inside the house. I got my grandmother a Ring doorbell since it was cheap and she didn't need much, and I used one of those adapters with it since the having to charge the device every once and a while I knew was going to cause issues with her.

Something like this should work. Similar or the same to what was installed at my house.

Broan BK125LWH NuTone Chime Kit (2 Lighted Push-Buttons, 1 Transformer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VH5ILI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Gp-0AbH2VDCZN

Depends on the sensors. I moved into a house that had an ADT system with the embedded door sensors in all the exterior doors. I used the ecolink door sensors to add the z wave functionality to those sensors. https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Operated-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU

They have a dry contact which I used to connect the already installed door sensor wiring to. I removed the wiring from the ADT panel and installed the ecolink sensors next to the panel where the hardwired door sensors were run to.

If your home has wireless sensors on the doors then you will have to look at the protocols that it uses and supports.

You need to change the chime with its internal PSU and put in a transformer.

Had a quick look at the info on your chime here https://nicorlighting.com/product/18888-prime-chime/

Which tells me your chimes internal PSU is rated at 12VDC 6mA output. This works out to 0.1W.

The Eufy doorbell FAQs say the doorbell needs 16-24VAC at 30VA, so needs a higher voltage, needs AC not DC that your chime produces, and needs a higher power rated transformer (30VA or around 24W minimum.)

Edit: something like this, assuming you are in America with 120VAC 60Hz mains https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07L9X9V57/ref=psdcmw_6291372011_t1_B07GND8RMQ

But there is! You just need this and this. The pressure mat is just two wires that connect to the terminals in the door sensor. I'm running ST and the default DH works fine, but I switched to a custom for a better visual aspect. It basically reverses the open/close and reports as Empty and Stepped On instead. Not sure why the mat is so much right now. When I bought mine a year ago they were only $23.

I have to say that they do work very we. Initially I got one for the dog, but after annoyance set in I picked up another and put them outside under my "welcome" mats. Sensor is inside. Now I get a notification any time someone comes to my door, whether they knock or not.

Here is what the mats look like with the custom DH.

You aren't installing a Ring doorbell by chance, are you?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079C27V2H/ref=asc_df_B079C27V2H5432641/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KRKV8Y/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1

Edit: Gosh I'm a derp today. Nest. I see that.
Edit: Maybe switch to a Ring?

If this is a Ring doorbell, I have a solution for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KRKV8Y/ref=psdc_6291370011_t1_B07BTCXY8Z

Mail Chime MAIL-1200 Wireless Mail Alert System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00103FDDU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8z.1DbTSRTNJ3

Correction: $44

I have another version which is off brand and I paid under $30.

You can buy adjustable angle mounts for Ring: https://www.amazon.com/ADJUSTABLE-Doorbell-Released-Homono-Adjustment/dp/B07457B842/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511302791&sr=8-5&keywords=ring+doorbell+angle+mount

I believe Ring also sells their own angle mounts as well.

Well I managed to find this I just hope it has the range I need
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00103FDDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got one of these about 4 years ago and it has worked flawlessly (mine worked up to 600 ft! I put it on the second floor of my house by a window facing the mailbox)

There are a couple MP3 doorbells on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/LA600WH-Universal-Wireless-Doorbell-Mechanism/dp/B009DG6EOS/ref=pd_cp_0_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=45JEBMRQ1ADTB11N4ND9

https://www.amazon.com/YourBell-Programmable-DoorBell-Corporation-Painted/dp/B018HJJJIO/ref=pd_lpo_421_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=45JEBMRQ1ADTB11N4ND9

My Ring Pro has been excellent with no issues so far. No problems with the video walkups or audio issues that others have experienced. The key is the transformer (getting enough power) and the WiFi signal.

Have you looked at Transformers yet? I would recommend one with 30 vac. I have mine hooked up to 16v 30VAC. Below is what I am using:


Edwards Signaling 598 120V 8/16/24V 30W Transformer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007B79HR2

I was thinking bandwidth/wifi, but thats not the case, at least in my short time running tests. I'm running 3 ubiquity ac-pros and a custom built pfsense router. I've ran multiple tests on bandwidth, dropped packets, wifi signal etc and it's rock solid. The only thing that makes sense is my transformer isn't providing a consistent level of power. I wasn't even leaning that direction until another user said they had a very similar issue.

Also, when dealing with power having it sit inside in a controlled environment isn't even close to the same as having it outside in the cold and having multiple variables.

Here's the transformer I purchased. NuTone C907 16V, 30VA Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001POBN92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6AbRAbQKW84XA

You will probably need to get in touch with Qolsys support. The Qolsys panel is not primarily a Z-wave Panel, so you should expect many Z-wave devices to not act as they should out of the box. Even the panels that are specifically mainly Z-wave ( Smart Things, Vera, etc.) often show these types of issues. The only controller i have found that is reliable on nearly every device has been by HomeSeer. However, the HomeSeer panel is not very user friendly and can be quite difficult to set up. As well as some of their hubs are quite expensive due to their premium nature.

it also may be possible that the older version of the sensor will work as it sends a different set of messages. (DWZWAVE2-ECO)

https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Operated-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ecolink+door+window&qid=1564714876&s=gateway&sr=8-3

however, these sensors are no longer manufactured, so they are a bit more expensive.

It's a wireless doorbell. The base unit would be plugged into an outlet somewhere. Not really a "smart" doorbell. They probably took the rest of the doorbell with them not thinking about it or it got thrown away.

Here's one on Amazon for $15.99
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076X3HRRF

I used an angle wedge from Amazon. Results : https://twitter.com/azureandchill/status/1056890093938663425?s=21

Adjustable (30 to 50 Degree) Angle Mount for Ring Video Doorbell Pro (Released in 2016), Homono Angle Adjustment Adapter/Mounting Plate/Bracket/Wedge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07457B842/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zNR8S3DtBXRPa

Purchase a 30va 16v transformer from Amazon. That will solve the low voltage issue. Worked for me and solved the problem. The issue is amps not voltage on the line.

This is the one to buy from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this to give my existing doorbell a z-wave connection to SmartThings that then sends a notification to my phone:

Nexia Z-Wave Doorbell Sensor, DB100Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VVO9QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-otFyb45EXT2W

Nexia Z-Wave Doorbell Sensor, DB100Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VVO9QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1klAyb7DFFH7J

https://www.amazon.com/Edwards-Signaling-598-120V-Transformer/dp/B007B79HR2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519562476&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=doorbell+transformer+16v+30va
I got this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Knock-Nanny-Door-Cover-White/dp/B00OABOHRM/

I use this transformer for my Nest Hello. Haven’t had any issues with it.


24V 40VA Thermostat and Doorbell Transformer, Power Supply Compatible with Nest, Ecobee, Sensi and Honeywell Thermostat, Nest Hello Doorbell and All Versions of Ring Doorbell (Style 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9X9V57/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.EDxDb34YH2VQ

Probably a doorbell transformer, like this or this.

I didn’t measure the voltage. I bought this.

https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-C909-Tri-Volt-Transformer-Chime/dp/B001PO7MY2

It’s plugged into the 16v 20va section. That was the set my doorbell transformer was originally plugged into.

https://www.amazon.com/Nexia-DB100Z-Z-Wave-Doorbell-Sensor/dp/B017VVO9QQ

A zwave door sensor would be the first thing i think of
https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Operated-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU

Get a new doorbell? Put a sign next to it saying "ring this doorbell, not this one"

https://www.amazon.com/SadoTech-Wireless-Doorbell-Operating-Batteries/dp/B00FR4YQYK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=doorbell&qid=1550561283&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Keep the receiver near you. I don't know how customizable this one I randomly found is. Might be able to find one with a volume.

"1 12V batteries required."

https://www.amazon.com/SadoTech-Wireless-Doorbell-Operating-Batteries/dp/B00FR4YQYK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5VY1WHDRWPQM7YFXJKJP

This RCA doorbell works with Blue Iris:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077KW2T1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uuo4BbSE0NA1C

Just sayin

Slap one of these on that bitch.

Is it more than 300 feet away?

https://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B00OABOHRM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_4fKYDbJQKAB8P

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KRKV8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_Q-tQCbKM8ZAVX

Broan BK125LWH NuTone Chime Kit (2 Lighted Push-Buttons, 1 Transformer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VH5ILI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NKI-Ab9AZX1QM

Maybe double check that your mechanical doorbell can handle 24V. Mine said 16V, so I ended up getting this 16V transformer

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FR4YQYK

I just ordered this (my first burning man 2018 purchase!)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FR4YQYK

We'll see how it goes

Probably not what you want to hear, but the simplest way would be to get a z-wave doorbell, or a z-wave doorbell sensor.

I was able to connect my hardwired smoke detectors to my SmartThings system with a BRK RM4 Relay. I installed it in the junction box behind the detector in my basement. When the alarm sounds it will open its switch. By connecting this switch to the auxiliary contact terminals on a door sensor mounted nearby, my HA system knows that the alarms are sounding. This should also work with any other hub that supports a zwave door switch (read: all of them.)

Here's the magic:
BRK RM4 Smoke Alarm Accessory Relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039PF21U/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-HVLwb9C5KFTY

And the door switch I'm using:
Ecolink Z-Wave Door/Window Sensor (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_qKVLwbPRVRM5Y

This will do it, its also sold by another brand which sells it directly. Ill see if I can find it

https://www.amazon.com/Uniden-U-Bell-Doorbell-faceplates-DB1/dp/B075V9ZKTY

You would have to pair it with something like Blue Iris to do local recording I believe

EDIT: here is another rebrand - https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Doorbell-Security-Detection-Android/dp/B077KW2T1H

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Doorbell-Adjustment-Mounting-Included/dp/B076KRKV8Y

Idk - probably break even in terms of time of materials + design + print

Same thing happened to me. A knocker wouldn't work very well since it's not very loud. I just get one of those wireless door bell and it works great. Something like this

I know the transformer in my door bell needs to be replaced. I just can't figure out where it is. There's a wire going up to probably the attic or the middle of the wall somewhere but not sure where the damn thing is

Some have stated that you really need a 30VA transformer for a ring pro connected to a mechanical chime. I had problems with freezing when the doorbell was rung but that all went away when I upgraded my transformer to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001POBN92/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It appears if the voltage on the Ring Pro drops too low when ringing the doorbell, it turns this setting off. I fixed the issue by replacing my 16V 10VA transformer with a 16V 30VA transformer. 16V 30VA Transformer on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/AI-cluster-Doorbell-Compatible-Assistant-Bussiness/dp/B07CWLZWHP

No hub needed.

I would test the 2 wires when the door is closed and see if you get continuity, and when the door is open if it is broken. You can use these Ecolink, or Schlage ones that have a contact terminal in them and have Z-wave door sensors. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPIYJWU

I haven't installed it yet, but when I dove in too deep about a year ago I got one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Operated-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU

​

There are probably cheaper options, but this one has pins to connect a physical switch, which I've just attached to a standard doorbell:

https://i.imgur.com/76KJuk7.jpg

​

I remember setup in HASS being tricky because the states are reversed for what you'd want from a chime. I sent notifications to my phone with pushbullet with a doorbell chime as the notification sound. There's some annoying lag occasionally getting the notification, but there might be better methods now.

​

NuTone C907 16V, 30VA Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001POBN92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SstRAb67CZY6H

You'll have no problem if you use this with anything you want to power.

It's large though

Updating this... I've installed the new transformer recommended by pandaman1784 ( https://www.amazon.com/NuTone-C907-16V-30VA-Transformer/dp/B001POBN92 ) and I do get 18-20VAC from the door bell wiring behind the ring when measuring but looks like the ring pro has a pulsing white light... rings the internal chime, setup button still has no effect what so ever and if I push the door bell the white light goes out completely after the blue circle and then after a few seconds to a minute goes back to a pulsing white light (Reboot?).

​

At this point figured I'd wait it out maybe 30mins see if it does anything different with the extra voltage and if it's still behaving funny take it back to the BestBuy and exchange it? Any other ideas?

Pictures of new vs old transformer:https://imgur.com/a/BGDBM8l

New one had a ground wire but I also had no ground point so I capped that off, old had no ground wire.

UPDATE 2: Got impatient, exchanged it... worked just as well as the last one was able to link it to my ring account get it connected on WiFi etc. The only issue I have now is Live view showed a black screen and then I started just getting "Streaming Error" after that with no live view and no motion events or etc... could have swore after connecting the first one the motion events were almost immediate and I'd get the notifications in the app; guess this kinda warrants a separate thread though as it's no longer a low voltage issue/confirmed that even though I had low voltage the other one seemingly was damaged.