(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best fasteners

KidneyPuncher has a 10-pack of Phillips pan head screws for $1.95

If you want to go the Home Depot route, it will be cheaper, but they usually don't carry them at their B&M stores. However shipping to store is free and sometimes they are cheaper than Amazon.

Amazon and Ebay carry the fasteners your require, but usually in quantities of 25, 50, 100, and etc. Not expensive to buy in bulk, as well.

I personally replace the stock Phillips screws that usually comes with RDAs with flat set screws. It uses a 0.9mm hex key/bit instead of precision Phillips screwdriver, so there is no chance of stripping the head. Just my 2 cents. (A big thank you goes to /u/slumberland for giving me that gem of a tip!)

LINKS:

Amazon - QTY 100 for $3.67 PRIME eligible

Home Depot - QTY 3 for $0.30 FREE shipping to store (arrives Aug. 8 -Aug. 13)


Hope that helps you!

You're fine with 1 decimal, if you want to build super low ohm quads at some point yeah I'd recommend getting a standalone ohm meter.

Avoid the caravela as a first mod. The clones are good, don't get me wrong, but the caravela is supposed to come with 5 different length positive pins to adjust for your atomizer and the clone comes with 1. So basically you can only use it with atomizers with an adjustable pin, or you're risking having gaps or battery rattle or worse yet, no connection.

The nemesis clone is a solid choice. It's tried, true, great with magnets, and it's a standard 22mm size. Fasttech also sells colored aluminum tubes for it if you want a lower voltage drop or the look. If I were buying a new mod right now and I didn't have any, I'd get a brass nemesis clone off fasttech with the black or red tube kit.

For the atomize it just depends on how much you want to drop. You can get GREAT results from some of the cheap $5 fasttech atomizers simply by picking up a pack of m2x0.4 machine screws http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHXNPY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER and replacing the cheap screws most of the fasttech attys come with.

Cheap RDA's:

$6 Fasttech Omega clone

$3-5 Fasttech phoenix v5 nimbus clone (with the above mentioned screws)

Authentic igo-l/w (cheap on 101vape)


Mid end RDA's:

Igo-W + 22mm top cap (cap it all vapes) + optional copper posive pin (about 30-40bux)

Trident v2 clone (about 20bux)

Atomic clone (will be in the wild soon, be patient)


Low-High End:

Authentic Nimbus

Authentic Patriot (some sites are selling it for $50)

Don't be afraid of starting with something lower end, I have a zillion RDA's and my $5 fasttech nimbus clone and my igo-l/w's probably see the most use. Airflow control isn't really needed since you will probably find an airhole size you like and stick to it, that's what a drill's for. I like having it, but things like "how easy is this thing to build on" are much more important.

Basswood and Butternut are easiest for carving. I'm also going to try to carve a tap handle as a Xmas present. The basswood isn't the most beautiful wood as far as natural color and grain, but if you stain or paint it, it will look good.

I got this to carve on, since it is already almost the right size.

and these to use for the threaded insert

I also got one of these carving knives, although you could do the same thing with any knife. They are just ergonomic and have a nice small blade for detail work.

I'm going to attempt to carve a big "M" with a hop sitting on the top for my Brother-in-law.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

I haven't yet drilled the holes. A forstner bit is a good idea. Hopefully I've got one small enough (these are the ones I bought). E-Z Lok's site says to use a 17/64 drill bit, which I definitely don't have a forstner of. Might have a 3/8, though. Drilling big and using some epoxy is a good idea, but I'd be worried about keeping epoxy out of the internal threads.

I've got some scrap I can test on. Probably the only way to be sure what'll happen. :)

Installing them from the bottom of the board still seems like it might be the easiest route. I'll test a few options and see what works.

Thanks!

I've been working on this table project for a little while now, and now just need to fasten the legs to the table tops. One issue that that these raw oak slabs were never planed more than the rough cut from the tree, so their fairly uneven, and even bow a little (don't think it shows in the pictures, though). For that reason, I need a way to level the legs so that the tables don't rock once their finished. Shimming the plates with washers should be easy enough to get the table level, but I'll need machined threads to run the fasteners into and out of (and then into and out of again) so that they'll still hold once it's all said and done. I've looked at a few different options for this problem, but aren't convinced any of them are ideal. T-nuts would work, but I think they might pull out since they won't be held in from the top of the table surface (not interested in that industrial look). These threaded inserts and these similar ones would seem to do the trick, but the reviews raise questions about the strength of the material in dealing with hardwood, as well as problems with the material stripping while trying to place them. Anyone have any suggestions/advice?

TLDR: Looking for fastener solutions to affix table legs to the underside of an oak slab that will allow adjusting to level the table.

My suggestion:

This + rubber cement + your tokens

They turn out great. I have a whole box of these things. Your local hardware store carries the washers too. Also, 2" washers work just as well for large tokens. I love making these, and my players love playing with them.

Basic components of a pressurized CO2 system:

• Regulator -controls flow of CO2 gas into your aquarium
  
  
• CO2 tank - consistent, pressurized source of CO2
  
  
• Diffuser - breaks down CO2 gas into teeny tiny bubbles for plants to use
  
  Regulators: there are many brands and components to a regulator. I recommend a regulator with a solenoid, and a bubble counter. The solenoid allows you easily control your CO2 using an inexpensive timer, or an expensive pH controller. A bubble counter is a simple way to guess how much CO2 gas is in your aquarium. You may want to shoot for 3-4 bubbles per second depending on lighting and plants. I personally recommend the Milwaukee regulator and have used one reliably for years.
  
  CO2 tank: A 10 lb tank might last you 3-4 months before needing refilled. You can get a 20lb but they are huge and ridiculously heavy. On my 29gal, a 10lb tank lasts 6 months. Tanks ship empty and you have to find a local source to fill it with CO2. Try welding supply or home brew beer supply. You will need disposable seals too.
  
  Diffuser: This is where you have a lot of options. Ceramic diffusers are effective on small-medium tanks. CO2 reactors and DYI options using your filtration system are effective on a large size tank. I can't give any recommendations on these 2 options, sorry, hopefully someone will chime in.
  
  Other important equipment includes CO2-safe tubing, a drop checker, maybe a brass check valve if needed, and the aforementioned timer. Hit me up if you would like recommendations for these items.
  

I have the plate holders you're talking about and can also remove the pin easily but it's never fallen out on it's own and holds my plates securely so I wouldn't be concerned at all about their monolift. I'd take a Canadian made monolift made for my rack over a Titan one I might have to hammer in any day. If you're concerned about the pins falling out swap those hitch pins for ones like these https://www.amazon.ca/Koch-4011323-Hitch-Handle-4-Inch/dp/B005ZCT3BU/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=5%2F8+hitch+pin&qid=1549782155&s=gateway&sr=8-10 but they used the pins to make it quick and easy to move them around. Being easy to remove is really different than not being secure.

Yeah, M3, maybe 10mm, maybe down to 6mm.
Been a long time since I used the stock fan shroud.
Like u/HeadOfMax said, Ace, or a small hardware store will have them.
But, might want to look at a box for the future, I like these the best: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q4Z2C6

Pre-make storm shutters.

Buy plywood or polycarbonate sheets. Poly is awesome since you can see through it, they're lighter, last longer, and you can leave them up a long time if you want.

Drill holes where you'll put panels and insert some threaded inserts. Put the anchors at least every 6 inches.

Then precut the panels (4 inch overlap is recommended), predrill the holes, get some appropriate bolts and washers, etc. Make sure to label the panels so you know which windows they go to really fast!

Keep a small ladder and power screwdriver with the right bit to screw in the bolts with the coverings so you don't have to look around for them. Also get two belt-mount pouches, one for bolts and one for washers.

It wouldn't hurt to cut a cargo strap into 6 inch sections and then bolt them onto the sheets with enough slack so you can use the straps as handles to move the sheets around. The goal is for you to be able to put up window coverings yourself with about 2 minutes per window.

The washers are to prevent the bolt head from cracking or breaking through the panel. Maybe there is a good reason to also use a rubber washer?

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

Buy them at lowes or McMaster Carr!!! Way cheaper!!

Those are beautiful, would love to have them on my keezer...I currently have 4 reclaimed rail spikes that I drilled and tapped, which look awesome in their own right, but damn these are nice.

Home Depot

http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-3-8-16-Coarse-Brass-and-Gold-Steel-Wood-Insert-Nuts-5-Pack-880551/202242364

Lowes

http://www.lowes.com/pd_137397-37672-880551_0__?productId=3012578

Amazon (Best Deal 10 for 4.70)

http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Threaded-Insert-Thread-Threads/dp/B00DCFH08A

How much movement do you expect?
Does the top need to be fastener free?

One thought would be to install rivnuts into the sheet metal top then fasten the wood top using connector bolts. The holes thru the wood top would have enough clearance to the bolts to allow movement as long as you dont let a 500lb gorilla tighten the bolts.

The connector bolts are relatively low profile and shouldn't interfere with the tops function. But They could also be set in a counter bore with similar clearance between bore and head as the shaft and thru hole to allow clearance.

Rivnut example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFVHCTL/

Connector bolt example
https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973445744-Connector/dp/B00KM4OYJC

Yes, they are handy to have. I bought this and Im glad I have it. Better quality steel than the chinese stuff I have used. I hate when I strip out a hex head because the metal its made from is garbage. You may want to get a kit with some washers and some longer bolts (35-60mm) as well. I find myself needing those. The washers are handy if you are bolting printed parts together, helps to prevent the bolt head from sinking into the plastic. I have also bought little variety packs of different wire plugs/pins for wiring up steppers, controls boards and other things.

I think it looks compatible overall. These components would get you in the air just fine. For the receiver, it would be a good idea to go with the Turnigy 9X if you can swing the additional cost, that way you have some additional switches / expansion later.

As far as parts go, it is not clear to me how you would mount your flight controller on that particular frame. It says it has a PDB and I think from the picture it is the round one. The flight controller you linked is a square one (36x36mm) which is standard. You may want to consider a PDB like this one, along with some M3 nylon standoffs so you can mount the flight controller directly above.

I also don't see any XT 60 connectors, which you will need to connect to your PDB so you can supply power from you battery. You would also needs some 14 gauge wire to connect the xt60- included in the link.

When you get your radio, make sure it comes with the radio receiver (the one you linked does) and the correct cables to link to your flight controller.

Homedone Drywall Anchor 50-Pack - 2 Different Sizes, Self-Drilling with Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVU4Z68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8PrxzbGDEQ8MP

I've used these with good results only downside is the huge hole they leave if you remove them.

They make smaller ones but I can't find them on Amazon that are rated for the 50 lbs and take a 7/32" drill bit to install.

I'd recommend just going to the hardware store they have a huge selection typically.

I like using the ones they sell on amazon. They're shorter and their threads are finer. I also drill a 9/16" pilot hole though. I just switched to a 9/16" forstner bit and like it much better than the spade bit I was using.

Thank you! I knew there were kits out there like that, I just wasn't using the correct search terms I guess lol.


https://www.amazon.com/Washers-1200PCS-Sutemribor-Assortment-Wrenches/dp/B07H4MG7TC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=m3+assortment&qid=1569691906&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Found this, seems it should cover most things, until I run into something designed for m5 screws, but I'll cross that bridge when I get there lol

How does it work? I'd worry about the security of the light and the printed part sliding down the rack arms. Is it easy to remove for charging? With all the effort of printing a part it'd be nice to not have visible zip ties; easier to still if you can see what to cut. When I started printing parts I bought an assorted bolt kit for little projects.

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-515pcs-Metric-Socket-Assortment/dp/B074Q4Z2C6/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=5mm+bolt+kit&qid=1568517024&s=gateway&sr=8-6

DSLRs are really front-heavy, which can exacerbate vibrations. I'd find a way to balance its center of gravity directly over the mount.

What kind of mount is it?

EDIT: ALSO: You need to secure the top of your camera as well. You can get a simple hotshoe mount like this and improvise some hardware. Basically you want to make a tripod that mounts to the top of the camera to either the base of your mount or additional suction cups.

Yep, floating top. I ran three stretches between the long side skirts and used these.

(Pack of 20) Desktop Fasteners Figure 8, Heavy Duty 12 Gauge Steel, Table Top Connector, Desk Top Hold Down Fasteners Clip by Podoy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYWQCWH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b3vKDbJ5P199K

They pivot to allow for wood movement.

I use the washers from the link below. If you want to pay 3 or 4 bucks more and get prime shipping click the other listings and select the one with prime. Not sure if they are the best buy they seemed to work fine for me.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/

A description of mine:

• ZMR clone frame - $35
  
• EMAX 2204/2300KV motors + 12A ESCs - $78
  
• Naze32 - $25
  
• PDB - $5
  
  Propellers: the sky's the limit. You can start with $20 worth.
  Transmitter/receiver: Turnigy 9X, you can get it for $60/70 at Hobbyking
  Battery / charger: as much as you want to spend. The bare minimum is $12 for a charger and $20-ish for a couple decent batteries (1500 mAh 3S with a good discharge rate). You'll also need odds and ends such as nylon standoffs.
  
  In short, you can get to your first day of flying a line-of-sight 250 for around $200 if you look for the cheapest parts. That's just the beginning though. If you want FPV then you'll need a transmitter, receiver, goggles, antennas.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Milwaukee regulator

disposable seals

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

https://imgur.com/a/gi7kf inside facing down with the side on the left and the back at the top of the image. You can see that I recessed the holes for the bolts that connect the side to the back. In this position, the mattress support is covering another one of he bolt holes. There are four bolts in total connecting the side to the back, so a total of sixteen structural ones. The mattress support is angle aluminum spray painted black and that too is bolted into threaded inserts in the legs.

The bolts are pan head Allen wrench types.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KM4OYJC/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_of_39?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CK8JTGGYA7XBB2ATWP70 so there isn't really a place for the baby's finger to get stuck.

https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Fasteners-Figure-Connector-Fastener/dp/B07MYWQCWH


Are those the clips you mean? Never knew these existed, so interesting option! Thanks! I think these might be the next best option if screw in nuts are a no go.

If that one doesn't need extra hardware, that's cool. Makes things easier.

The one I use does need some metric hardware for the threads. The nice thing is the threads are quite fine, so you make small adjustments in height.

I didn't feel like running to the hardware store sporadically to buy individual metric hardware for designs I found online and was printing. So I bought this $21 socket head cap screws assortment set from Amazon, with M2, M3, and M4 in different lengths:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4MG7TC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I could buy a bunch of hardware as-needed for $21, but this gives me a lot of the common sizes that people seem to use in their designs.

I keep some backup clothing. Specifically wool socks, boots and extra gloves and hat. If I get stranded and have to trudge through the snow I wanna be prepared.

Recovery straps arent too expensive either. I think mine was like $30. Get a hitch shackle too if you're gonna do that.

Besides that I keep extra fluids and litter or salt in a box in the back. I got one of these cause I didnt want anything permanent, and just chain it in the bed. Also sand bags for weight - this year I'm planning to build a frame to hold them in place.

Over summer I also built this rail-mount shovel holder, mostly to keep it from bouncing around or getting easily lifted. Its not really secure but its better than just tossing it in there. I used these clamps and these t-slot nuts for the rail. Hardware came from lowes, 3/8"-16, i think they were 1 1/2 inch bolts, washers, and the aluminum bar.

It's pretty straight forward. Here are the parts I'm using:

1. I bought this ATX plug so I didn't have to splice my power supply.
   
2. Using this PWM controller
   
3. Using these female banana plugs
   
   Those are the things I bought specifically for this project. The things I already had that helped are:
   
   
4. I really like this flexible silicone wire.
   
5. I use these USB connectors for various projects. Their pinout is .1" (2.54mm) and it comes with all kinds. Works well for slimming down a raspberry pi.
   
6. I used one of these prototype boards to solder the usb receptacles and the LED to.
   
7. I'm using a pink LED from this pack of assorted LEDs along either a 100ohm or 220ohm resistor, I can't remember.
   
8. I use one of these DPDT switches to switch between power on w/ PWM and power on w/ power to the solder fume extractor.
   
9. I used a JST connector from this JST kit to put a male header on the side so I can plug in accessories like the solder fume extractor.
   
10. Lastly, the front panel is bolted on with some M3 screws from this assortment.
    
11. The case was modeled in Rhino 5 and printed in a CR-10 using Silver eSun PLA+
    
    This post has made me realize I have way to much electronics stuff just lying around...

One inch washers + sticker paper + printer = good looking, cheap, solid, & reusable tokens.

Trencher Shovel:

Manufacturer's site for specs: https://www.crkt.com/trencher.html

Amazon link for a better price: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M0G10O4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounting Pieces:

Quickfists: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CQPANY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

T-Slot Nuts: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009SWGLHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screws: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00IZFS0VI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need a Drill and a 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit. Drill out the stock hole in the bottom of the quickfist to make the hole larger, the screws will then fit through. Put the T-Nut in the bed-rail and slide it down to where you want it. Screw the Quickfist to the T-Nut and you get what you see above! Insert your tool of choice!

Easy! Bed rail nuts

Everything should be M3. Do your self a favor and replace all the Philips with socket caps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I74TTWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GptNyb4VWDM0K

You'll also want lock washers

All you need is a cheap red dot sight (there's no recoil on a camera so your cheap sight isn't going to lose its zero), a short section of picatinny rail, and a hotshoe to 1/4" tripod adapter. You'll have to drill and tap the rail section to 1/4"x20 and once it's all put together and aligned superglue everything together so it doesn't move. I had the pic rail left over from another project so I saved ten bucks there. You obviously don't need 10" of picatinny rail so just cut off as much as you want. For extra cool points use an Eotech

The lens is a Rokinon 500mm mirror lens.

T-nuts are also a lot easier than inserts. You just drill a 5/16 hole and press-fit them in. 100 of them should probably cover your needs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H61YF2

Go to the local hardware store and get a larger screw in anchor, like these: Drywall Anchor.

They come in different sizes, get one slightly larger than the hole.

Alternatively you can use a toggle bolt.

I agree with /u/niceflipflop that a couple of scale pics would be nice, but at a glance I'd definitely say you've got plaster walls. First thing's first, do you own or rent? That's going to make a big difference as to what advice I give as I've both owned and rented places with plaster walls.

If you rent, leave them the hell alone. Hell hath no fury like a rapidly deteriorating plaster wall and being a landlord myself who does all my own drywall/plaster you'll probably get charged a lot of money for those repairs. Stick to tape or 3M command strips and call it a day.

If you own the place, do yourself a favor and invest in a quality hammer drill. I bought a Dewalt because I knew I was going to abuse it, but for someone who is going to use it a few times a year, the model I linked will do fine. Some argue that you don't need a hammer drill to put a hole in masonry and they're wrong. Plus, it doubles as a standard, high power corded drill which is also an indispensable tool.

For interior (read: not masonry backed) walls, I've had good luck with these. They're low weight (~50 pounds or so) but great because you can avoid drilling and causing a mess like you have on your hands now. I never tried it, but I've heard putting a sturdy tape like duct tape can help prevent tear out as well. They also penetrate the slats and studs if you happen to hit one. This type of toggle fastener technically works, but I don't like them for plaster because of the size of hole you need to drill for them which generally causes more problems than it solves (1/2", if I remember). Definitely don't use anything like these as they'll just shred your plaster.

For exterior, structural, masonry walls, you need masonry screws and the 3/16" masonry bit to go with the 1/4" screws. If you have a hardware store near you, chances are they'll have them in packs far less than 100 and many stores sells Tapcons which often come with a bit included.

It seems daunting at first, drilling into a concrete/brick wall (I cut away an entire section to install a door. shudder) but once you get used to it it's just like mounting to any other wall surface. The thing you have to understand is just how thick your plaster is and subsequently how many threads you need to have inserted into the masonry to make it safe. Take this cross section for instance. If we look at the deepest your cabinet back is likely to be (.5") and add 1.5" for the plaster thickness that means the fastener has to penetrate 2" of material before it even hits the wall. The general rule is that for every length of fastener you have outside the functional threaded surface (the masonry wall), you need to have the same length of threads inside i.e. "A" has to equal "A". So, in this example, if you have 2" of material (.5" cabinet back and 1.5" plaster) you'd need ~4" masonry screws to safely hold your cabinet in place. For something as relatively light duty as a coat rack you could probably get away with 3.5" or so, but anything less and you're risking the fastener simply pulling out of the masonry walls, especially if your home is brick as the interior bricks are far softer than the exterior. Also I realize that not everyone is as tool hungry as I am, but an impact driver drives fasteners into masonry far better than a standard drill. You're more likely to strip them using a standard drill and frankly I use my impact more often than I do my drill, but we gutted our entire place so I understand not everyone wants a pile of tools.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1kZOzbQM0QCEJ

I used these and they're the perfect size for the screws in the screw in stabilizers. They're for motherboards so this is their intended purpose.

> crew inserts and compatible screws

Threaded inserts can be bought in packs of 10s or 100s cheaply, and fit common machine screws that can also be bought cheaply in bulk. These and these for instance. Usually available at your local hardware store as well.

you can find these amazon or ebay.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486171775&sr=1-1&keywords=insulation+washer+0.5mm

If you buy regular climbing holds, the plywood you mount them on will need some separation for the end of the bolts to stick out.

Therefore, I'd say screw 2x4s into studs. Take a piece of 3/4" plywood and mount t-nuts into it (here). Screw that into the 2x4s. That gives you separation from the wall, letting the bolts screw in enough. Plus you get the added benefit that your forearms won't hit the door frame. I've gotten some really annoying bruises like that.

motor screws are m3 screws, this is a good place to start but i can't tell how long the screw is so you may want to measure it's length in mm before buying. or if you need it sooner, a local hardware store should be able to match one up for you.

I would suggest if you use screw in stabs to use a set of paper washers. I used the following with my build. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARADX88/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This stop's them from shorting out the board. Its not always a issue but having to desolder ever switch makes 7 bucks worth the piece of mind.

oops they're not plastic

Assuming your camera has a cold shoe/hot shoe, you could use a Cold shoe to 1/4"-20 adapter and an iPhone tripod mount.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-2mmx4mmx0-5mm-Motherboard-Insulating-Washers/dp/B01ARADX88/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486171775&sr=1-1&keywords=insulation+washer+0.5mm

If they sell out before you order them, I could send you some of mine.

And to complete the set here's the trailer hitch pin:

https://www.amazon.com/Koch-4011213-Hitch-Handle-8-Inch/dp/B005ZCT3BU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538523515&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=red%2Btrailer%2Bpin&dpPl=1&dpID=31uATxjXpfL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

It's just standard 1/4"-20 threading, it says it in the description. Here is a $5 alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SMALLRIG-Hot-Shoe-Adapter-Monitor/dp/B006LB5YLM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1413131523&sr=1-1&keywords=hotshoe+tripod+mount

I have a piece of mdf with holes drilled in it and T-nuts on the back side.
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-180297-Pronged-100-Pack/dp/B000H61YF2/ref=sr_1_1/180-7989447-8305100?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1468022702&sr=1-1

I printed a bunch of hold downs on my printer and use 1/4 20 bolts to hold my part.

Lots of cheap options on Amazon. If you don't want the bar you can get a couple of these t-nuts that fit inside the track and screw the fork mount into that for an out of the way semi permanent options.

Sunlite Fork Mount Bike Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2dOwzbNNVRVQF

1018 Steel T-Slot Nut, Black Oxide Finish, Grade 5, Tapped Through, 3/8"-16 Threads, 5/8" Height, 9/16" Slot Depth, Made in US (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SWGLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IgOwzbJSKR2CC

I just get the kits off of [Amazon](Rosiness 180Pcs M3 Nylon Hex Spacers Screw Nut Stand-off Plastic Accessories Assortment Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LGBM3J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q9PuybYP7A044)

Here, in a pack of 100.

If you're looking for the screws on other sites, the size of the screw is M2-0.4, metric coarse.