(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best power tools

Warning - Incoming Giant wall of text

I've seen a lot of random Amazon topics pop up here, most with incorrect or partial information. I don't work for Amazon, but I've been a very long time and prolific customer, and hopefully I can share some tips and tricks that will save you guys some money when shopping with what is easily my favorite retailer.

camelcamelcamel

The link in my post gets you to camelcamelcamel (referred to here-on as 'CCC') because it's the first thing you should know about Amazon. I have found their browser add-on to be a very useful addition to my Chrome toolbar. CCC is simply a historical on the prices of various items on Amazon. If you sign up and make an account, it also has price drop alert options via email or Twitter as well as the ability to customize watch lists for products you're interested in.

How to use CCC

It's easy to get caught up in trying to get the absolute historical lowest price on an item, but that's only half the functionality of CCC. Look at a volitile product like this Seagate external drive. From the graph, we can see that this drive often hits the historical low of $99.99 - but usually hangs out around $110. If you were unlucky enough to look at the drive when it was priced at $130+, from the chart you can tell that if you can wait a week or so, chances are relatively good that you'll see this product drop in price again soon - saving you anywhere from $20 to $40.

On the flip side, look at this SKIL Drill Press. We can see that the current price of $117.99 is pretty average, so you might be tempted to wait for another historical low point. Well in this case, if you look at the date of the historical low, note the date - November 29th, 2012. That's right in the middle of Amazon's Black Friday sales. Since the only times that this item seems to dip under the $110 mark seem to be around the November time period, you can pretty safely assume that this item only goes on sale as a "door buster" type item. Note that CCC defaults to "ALL" for the date range. If you switch it to either 3mo or 6mo for this item, you can see that this has been pretty stable at the $113.50 - $117.99 range. If you can't wait until November to see if this goes on sale again, chances are pretty high that it won't change price again very soon so you probably won't see a savings if you wait it out a week or two.

CCC also has Popular lists of items that many people are currently tracking. Their Community page is an aggregate of suggested deals from their users. They also have a page that lists the items which have had the most significant price drops recently. Amazon also monitors web traffic, so if an item gets a sudden increase in web traffic to that page, the price often becomes more volatile.

Ok, back to Amazon.com.

The Amazon Shopping Cart

The Amazon shopping cart is sort of a mini version of CCC. Whenever you go shopping on Amazon and place items into your cart, the price reflects whatever the current price is on Amazon. So if you put some shoes in your cart, go to lunch and come back to it an hour later to check out, you may notice a message that says " Important messages about items in your Cart: 1 item in your Cart has changed price.
Items in your Shopping Cart will always reflect the most recent price displayed on their product detail pages."

Save for Later

When you add a few items to your cart and view it, you'll note that there's a two options below the product listing - Delete (obviously to remove the item from your cart) and Save for later. Save for later pulls the item out of your shopping cart and into a separate list called "Saved for Later". Save for Later and your Shopping Cart both keep track of price changes to items. If you had few items that you were thinking about buying but wanted to wait for a price drop, instead of checking the item's page every day, add it to your Saved for Later cart and check it every once and a while. Any changes to prices will be noted at the top of the screen the first time you check after the price changes. Be careful though - if you refresh or click the cart again, the message is gone. Amazon only alerts you the first time you click your cart after the price change. The good thing about Save for Later and your Shopping Cart is that it will list all the changes to all of the items listed in your inventory - even if it spans multiple pages. So if you have 100 items in your Saved for Later list, and Amazon changes the prices on all 100 items, it will list every single change on a single page.

Wish List

Your Wish List isn't just a repository of items you want to eventually grab, it's also another price tracker. Every item in your Wish List remembers the price when it was added. Any change to the price is also noted on the item itself - Price dropped 5% (was $117.28 when added). The Wish List is like a manual version of the Save for Later or Shopping Cart. If you have multiple pages of items, you have to click on each page and scan through the list - there's no bulk summary at the top of the page. The Wish List is great for items that you are moderately interested in, but isn't high on your priority list. You can also build several Wish Lists (and set varying degrees of privacy). I keep one specifically for books, and one with everything else.

Limitations of the Shopping Cart, Save for Later, and Wish List

Note that any item added to any of the three lists above only reflect the price from the seller you added it from. In other words, if you added an item sold by Amazon Warehouse, and the price for Amazon.com drops lower, it will only tell you if the price changed for Amazon Warehouse. The same goes for any third party sellers. You should also know that the historical price change notification on both the Shopping Cart and Save for Later does tend to glitch out now and then. They removed the functionality completely for a few weeks last year either as part of an upgrade process, or simply forgot about it. Either way, there was quite a few requests for the functionality to be re-added, so it's back now. However it seems like if Amazon.com has any problems whatsoever, this is the first thing to go missing. So if you're watching a specific item intently, it doesn't hurt to manually track it or use CCC.

Amazon Warehouse

There seems to be a lot of questions about Amazon Warehouse - hopefully this will help a few of you out.

The Warehouse is Amazon's version of the "Open Box" or "Customer Returned" or "Damaged" isle at a big box store. It is not the same as the Amazon Outlet. The biggest difference between the Outlet and the Warehouse is that the Outlet items are considered New goods (although they do have refurbs), where as the Warehouse items have been opened and/or used previously. Warehouse items are limited in number and are often not marked down as much as you might think. The Outlet is comprised of items that have usually hit the 30% or more markdown price point (from MSRP). They're usually seasonal or overstocked items.

Biggest tips with the Warehouse:

• Look at the condition options - Every item listed on the Warehouse will come in various conditions. Each item sold will have the overall condition listed as well as notes on why the condition is graded as it is.
  
  
• "Every item I've gotten from the Warehouse has been Like New / Broken / Missing Parts" - The grading on products is manual and probably done in a rush. I would suggest avoiding items with tons of parts - if a previous customer opened up a build kit with 800 screws, the chances are high that you'll probably end up with a few missing parts. Meanwhile a blender will most likely be fine. Also, the worker's definition of "small cosmetic imperfection" may be completely different than yours. Be aware that you probably won't get something that looks perfect.
  
  
• Always check Amazon.com's prices - You don't always save a whole lot by buying used. You have to ask if it's worth getting a used item versus a brand new item just to save $2-3.
  
  
• All items are covered by Amazon - All items on the Warehouse are no longer covered by Manufacturer's Warranties but are covered by Amazon's A-to-z Guarantee Protection. All items are returnable for Amazon's standard 30-day policy.
  
  
• Neat Link - Amazon Warehouse Deals Brand Listing. Just a quick link to the brands currently available on Amazon Warehouse.
  

I'm a professional carpenter and general contractor, and from my personal experience and the anecdotal evidence from the guys I regularly see, Bosch is of the best you can get for cordless tools nowadays. DeWalt used to be the go-to, but their quality has dropped considerably over the last 5-10 years. They still have some decent products, but I know of a lot of people who have had major issues with their drill chucks being off center.

This said, you kind of need a grab bag to get the best of each tool.

Here's my current setup, which is the same as quite a few contractors I work with:

• Bosch 18V impact driver/drill set. I've dropped my driver with a 6" bit attached directly onto the bit from 10' up, on concrete, and the entire thing was unscathed. Batteries last forever and charge very quickly.
  
  
• Festool jigsaw. Festool makes AMAZING products, but it's probably way overkill for most, and this Bosch model is a great second option I've seen used by many guys with a ton of success.
  
  
• Skil Mag 77 circular saw. This is the be all end all saw. It has enough torque to change the rotation of the earth. It's heavy, though, so a decent sidewinder might be your best bet. I would never use anything else, personally, though.
  
  
• Bosch compound sliding miter saw. I love this thing. You can put it flat up against a wall and still use the slider, which is a feature unique to them.
  
  
• DeWalt table saw. The major plus of this saw is that the rip fence is on a track, so both sides move together. I still never trust their gauges, but to know that both the front and back are equidistant from the blade 100% of the time is worth its weight in gold.
  
  
• DeWalt thickness planer. Never thought I'd buy one, and now I wouldn't be without one. With the combination of the above 3, you can pretty much make anything out of anything. Have a 5/4 board at the house but you need a 1x? 2 passes through the planer and you're set.
  
  
• Bosch Rotary Hammer. The demo master. It can hammer drill massive holes in concrete, or switch to hammer only mode to remove tile or glued on drywall particles. These are bulletproof.
  
  
• DeWalt orbital sander. Nothing fancy, as I don't do a ton of heavy sanding. Something to look for in these is the variable speed; makes jobs much easier.
  
  
• Bosch oscillating tool. Most brands are similar, and depending on your uses a corded model may be better. I have a second tool that uses these batteries so I have lots of backups (and they charge very quickly), and I often use it in places that running a cord would be a pain in the ass. This is great for trimming things that are immovable and can't be sawed: think door frame bottoms for new floors, baseboard trim to accommodate a new vent, drywall patching, anything. Love this thing.
  
  
• RotoZip spiral saw. Great for drywall, and there's a masonry style bit that works good for cutting pieces of tile (like around a faucet or control).
  
  
• Bosch planer. Again, nothing fancy and I definitely don't use it daily...but when you need a planer, there's not much else you can use.
  
  
  So there you go. Those are the ones that have gone through the ringer on a construction crew and have survived heavy abuse and regular moving/dropping without any signs of letting go. Some may be overkill for your situation, but they're what I've found to be best. I'm probably missing a few loose ends so look out for edits.

First of all, whatever you choose, make sure it's double action and gravity fed.

A couple of months ago I bought my first airbrush kit.

After A LOT of research, I decided to go for an Iwata Neo CN airbrush. It's great quality and reliable, as all Iwata products are, but still more economic, which makes it great for beginners. It comes with two interchangeable cups in two sizes, which I find very practical.
With proper cleaning and maintenance, it should last a long, long time. So far, mine has been a delight to use.
It's around 55 USD on Amazon.

In my case, I preferred buying from a known, quality brand. I'm not saying the more inexpensive chinese airbrushes can't get the job done, but I'm very meticulous with my works and I'd rather minimize the chance of an unexpected failure.

Paasche is another well-known airbrush brand. I found this kit which might also fit your criteria.

One strong suggestion: do not go cheap on the compressor. It's the motor that will power whichever airbrush/es you decide to get, so it's important that it's good. I'm not telling you to buy the most expensive ones, of course, but to avoid the cheaper, smaller ones.

I recommend a compressor with a tank. The tank helps store air at the desired pressure, avoiding pulsations in the air flow. This also allows the piston to only start when the pressure drops below a certain point, saving energy and piston life, while avoiding overheating and constant noise. Additionally, the tank helps condense the humidity of the air in it (it sinks to the bottom and can be emptied), thus decreasing the risk of water droplets suddenly coming out of the airbrush (getting an additional water/humidity trap also helps).

Here is an example of one such compressor (it looks bigger than it is haha).
There might be cheaper ones; just make sure to check the reviews thoroughly to check for possible common issues, and to make sure the company provides customer support.

No matter what you buy, maintenance is key. Learn how to clean your airbrush. Make sure you're using the correct cleaning product (for instance, it's not recommended to clean certain varnishes with alcohol, as they get sticky and it makes it harder to remove from the airbrush). Clean it as soon as possible; some materials dry way faster than others, so look into that. If you're not going to use the airbrush for a long time, applying some airbrush lube on the needle is a good idea.
Cleaning it is fast and easy once you get used to it.

Sorry for the long comment, and I hope it helped in any way! :)

There's lots of articles and videos online, too; just Google things like "Good airbrush for beginners" and "How to choose an airbrush".

*Edited because typos, and a formatting fail 🤦🏻‍♀️

I'd recommend buying tools based on what your project plans are. If you're going to do trim, build decks and fences or anything that involves less sheet goods, absolutely I'd recommend a miter saw.

If you plan to build sheet good stuff, desks, cabinets, anything that involves plywood, then you can reasonably by a table saw and fill the gaps with a circular saw.

What is your budget? I'll be able to make better recomendations for tools if I know how much you have to play with.

I would avoid the saw you linked for a few reasons:

1. Single Bevel - If you have any intentions of doing crown moulding or trim you will literally want to kill yourself after setting fire to that saw from rage. The saw only tips one direction, it rotatates horizontally either direction, but it only tips one direction, this will make some compound miters a fucking nightmare to figure out (if you can even do it with acceptable results) Even for a home owner, I'd suggest a 12" dual bevel saw. I own this: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GCM12SD-120-Volt-12-Inch-Glide/dp/B004323NNC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452305203&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+sliding+miter+saw
   and I would not for ONE second hesitate to buy it again. Unlike most sliding saws, it does not use a rail system, so if you use it in a shop, you don't need 18-24" behind the saw to slide it. It's great for installing at a workbench. The price is also much more reasonable for you yankee folks since you dollar is getting much better now. It's a great saw, and if you look after it (as with any good tools) it will last a lifetime.
   
2. Sears tools are not what they used to be, I would not put them much above buying ryobi anymore, as they've outsourced so much of their production to the lowest bidder. I'd take Ridgid tools (great for homeowners, btw, because of lifetime service agreement for non-commerical users). Some of their (sears) stuff is ok, but there are better options now. My philosophy has always been buy the best quality you can afford, once. You're learning this lesson with your circular saw already.
   
   
3. 10" saws are ok, but a 12" saw gives you alot more cut capacity, both width of material, and depth.
   
   Some people might find the new yankee workshop boring (as you can likely tell, I'm a huge fan of Norm, and have been since I was a boy, I can attribute vast amounts of my woodworking knowledge to him directly) You'd do yourself a favor by watching some of his shows, and grabbing a book of his called "Measure twice, Cut once" they are absolutely worth the time investment.
   
   Here's a good place for you to start:
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUMif8_XQRE
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYqvwlbm6B0
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rTp4v1PZmBY
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuKIBWqg5yI
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nGqsc0JF3I
   
   That should keep you busy for a couple hours. It might be a little dry in places, but everything he show he does for a reason. This guy is about as good as it gets IMHO.
   
   Let me know if you have any more questions, I'd be happy to help you.
   

Dremel is a name brand for hand held rotary tools. I have and have had several so I will give you my .02

Vacuum powered - You connect it to a shop vac or other vacuum and the suction powers it, while this may sound good on the surface I can't see this having anykind of power from this I suggest avoiding it.

Cordless - Battery powered, I have had several. You get less torque than with a corded version, and they run down. I do have their new micro version and I like it so far, but cordless will always be a balance between power and battery life.

Corded - Best bet IMHO, get more features for less money than with the cordless and do not have to worry about waiting for one to charge.

Suggested Features -

• Do not stick with a single speed version, go with variable speed. In fact the more speed options the better IMHO. Different bits require different speeds, for example a cutting bit needs to run quicker than a wire brush.
  
  
• Multi Tool chuck - Some bits come in different diamters, this one will take them all. I love this and have replaced the old style chuck on all of my units.
  
  Bits - This will depend on what you want to use it for. I use my Dremels for everything from mixing epoxy to cutting and sanding everything (metal, wood, foam, fiberglass, etc). You can get more for your money if you buy a family of bits in a kit (example) but a few bits I have found most useful are:
  
  
• Sanding drum - then you buy the different sleves that slide over the tip and come in different grits. Again look for kits.
  
  
• Cut off disk - Go for the re-enforced ones like this
  
  
• carbide disk - Love this thing it cuts wood and softer material very well.
  
  
• carbide bits Come in many shapes and sizes, I find that they work well for shaping wood and softer materials.
  
  NOTE Like most power tools, a rotary tool takes a bit of practice, they can get away from you and eat up material (including your jeans and leg) if you are not careful. I have found that 90 percent of the time a light touch.. pull back.. and light touch.. pull back is the best method.
  
  edit: spelling and format
  

As someone working through this but a few years ahead of you, I'll pass along the list of stuff I've bought and/or wish to buy...

Hand Tools

1. You say you have screwdrivers, but ifs worthwhile to have a full complement of them. You might consider getting a hand tool set like this one. Also, diagonals. Can't stress that enough. Eventually, you might upgrade a lot of these, but it'll get you started.
   
   
2. Ratcheting wrenches, along these lines. Conventional wrenches are functional, but these are much more so.
   
   
3. Ratcheting hex key set. In fact, this one looks good. If you have any Ikea furniture in your future, these will be worth their weight in guld.
   
   
4. Maybe a vise. That particular vice is mid-priced, but you can find well-reviewed vises at just about any price point.
   
   
5. A good range of sand paper grits: 80, 100, 120, 150, 180. You might also pick up a sanding sponge.
   
   Power Tools
   
   
6. A Dremel
   
   
7. Maybe an electric circular saw or a jigsaw. I really don't know which I'd prioritize, but you should probably have at least one of them.
   
   
8. If there's money left over in your budget, I'd suggest a random orbit sander.
   
   
9. A drill press
   
   Also, there are fluids to consider
   
   
10. Simple Green
    
    
11. Penetrating oil
    
    
12. Wood Glue
    
    
13. Mineral Spirits
    
    
14. Linseed Oil
    
    Of these, I'd focus on the hand tools, fluids, and the Dremel. You can always ask someone to buy you a saw for Christmas. If you have these things on hand, there probably won't be a job come along that you can't handle at some basic level. I'm assuming you don't need yard grooming tools, because that's an entirely different list.

Some Compressor + Airbrush sets are good (like those from Pasche or Iwata) but it's all relative to your needs (as a good brush might not be good for Gunpla due to the scale) and what is offered.

There's actually a very good deal going on right now, as you can get a Paasche TG-3F with Compressor and all your needed accessories + Prime shipping (or free Super Saver shipping.)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AI5ZJBW/

With this set you have all you need to functionally airbrush but you'll also want to pick up some needed "accessories" for you.

• Respirator, at least a half mask - Local Hardware Store for best options
  
• P100 Filters - same as above
  
• Alligator Clips on Sticks - you can pick them up at Hardware or Hobby Stores locally as well
  
• Foam Block to put the skewers into and hold up the parts while you paint. Local hobby store, or if you have the packaging material used to ship heavy electronics like TVs that would work as well.
  
• Spray Booth, if you plan to spray inside at least http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ/
  
• Airbrush Lube, Iwata SuperLube or Badger Needle Juice
  
• Cleaning Brushes, just part of your more in depth cleaning routine that you'll need to do. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N3IX3Y
  
  
  You will also want to pick up some glass jars (for storing & mixing paints) as well as some plastic pipes for more accurate paint measurements (makes the jars less messy as well.)
  
  
  I highly suggest getting an easy to clean brand of paint like Vallejo Air to start with, so you can learn with less trouble as Vallejo can be cleaned up in an instant with Windex or water.

Aaalright so he's a simple man. I love that. He likes his tools and his gear to be life lasting and that's something I totally agree with.

A strong ass hatchet would be something manly that he might like.

I know this is out of your price range but a good electric Drill saves you so much trouble when you love fixing things around the house.

He has a pocket knife? Why not a multi-tool. I love these things. Super useful. Or a Swiss army knife.

I would love to have any the above mentioned items as gifts so yeah.

Hope you will find the perfect one thou. Happy hunting :D

I predict their enthusiasm for pizza wanes after the 15th consecutive meal. Here are some things that I've appreciated lately:

- a strong headlamp that is rechargable. I didn't really wear one for 30 years and I've worn mine 3-10 times a week since buying it a year ago. So, so, so, so useful. So useful. So very nice to have laying around nearby to make everything visible.

- Chair - Staple Hyken - comfortable and breathable

- giant mousepad - $10 to $25 and about two feet by three feet on the desk. When everything is a mousepad life is better

- three-jet butane lighter

- a good 12V drill and a drill bit kit. This has saved me about 10 hours and much frustration so far, though if you are considering it you could do better than that price.

- electric toothbrush

- computer repair kit

- good German alligator pliers

- minimalist wallet

Yes, owned the sander ahead of time, but seriously, it is so so much better than the little ones that look like this. By better, I mean 'faster' and more efficient.

I'm the kind of person who doesn't want to spend tons of time on a project. I apply that to everything, like buying a mower with a wider cutting surface, a bigger washer/dryer, etc.

IMHO people underestimate how much time they lose by trying to save $20 here and there.

We got the white goods on sale at a big box store that was moving older inventory, so only paid $110. The cabinet was only about $40 on Overstock, and the floor tile was also in the sale section at the big box store, and only ran about $30...add a can of latex paint, spackle, grout and caulking for another $30...I guess it was about $210. We were just lucky with the sale, I guess...it is probably still do-able for $300 if you don't need to have the newest/latest and are happy to buy odd lots.

I've heard good things about Habitat for Humanity stores as well for finding bargains, but I've never been to one...perhaps someone can share?

So I have recently started doing my own scale work. It is quite fun but can be tedious work with how precise you MUST be for drilling screws or the knife wont go back together properly. Blade centering can be screwed up etc.
Anyways the main tools that I use are as follows:

Skil Drill press

Dremel 4000

Dremel Shaper Table

Swivel Benchtop Vise

You will still need other assorted accessories like sanding wheels, cutting wheels (if you dont have a table saw for cutting down G10/Wood/Whatever media). While I am not a pro and I am just starting these are the essentials. Please feel free to PM me or email me hd600s@gmail.com if you have any other questions. I would be more than happy to help. It is extremely rewarding when you complete a set. The first few may not be perfect but you MADE them yourself :)

The only 2 I have successfully completed. I still need to work on my pattern technique

OK well I'll give you my recipe, here's what you'll need:

1 large stock pot 30-32 quarts is what you're shooting for. I got mine at Walmart for much less than this.

Yeast nutrient I prefer fermaid K but you can use Fermax, avoid DAP for a while it's kinda rough to dial in for a novice and can cause funky stuff to happen.

Campden Tablets

Wine Tannin

Some form of CO2, you can use Wine Preservation spray or if you paintball like me, fill your tanks up at the local place, and just use a regulator to dispense it.

WLP-099 for yeast. You can also use Wyeast 4347 if you want it to finish a bit sweeter.

You need a bathtub full of apples (not kidding) this is about ~100-150 pounds. I live in New England and buy cider apples for cheap money when they're in season from an orchard.

18-21 pounds of honey depending on which yeast you're using and if you want it to finish sweet or dry, I like to use orange blossom honey for this recipe, but anything light such as clover or some wildflower honeys will work. If you go with the Wyeast stuff stick with 18 pounds, if you're using the White Labs stuff and you still want some residual sweetness, go for 21 pounds.

A juicer to crush your apples. You could do this manually, but you will hate your life.

A Carboy stirrer or a Wine Whip You could use a super long stainless steel spoon, but in all honesty these do a much better job.

A big ass primary bucket this is what I use now, but if you've got a pair of 6.5 gallon buckets you're good too. I drilled a hole in the top for my "dry airlock" These open at 0.25 PSI, and they're both indestructible and cheap, plus you'll never have to worry about forgetting to fill your airlocks.

2 6.5 gallon glass carboys (these will be MUCH cheaper locally due to shipping costs)

1 All in One Wine Pump with a 10" house filter setup You can get the 1 and 5 micron filters cheaper on Amazon then the site they link there, and for the 0.5 micron finishing filter you get that HERE


Start with a bathtub full of apples with the stopper in, after the tub is full, fill around the apples with hot water. let that soak overnight to loosen up the dirt and hydrate the apples as well as you can. All hot water, no cold for this. Stir up the apples gently.
Wash the apples in bunches the next day, I have my kids help me with this, any ones with bad spots they put aside so I can either reject them outright or just cut the bad spots off. Cut the apples into quarters, only remove the stem and any leaves don't worry about the core or seeds or anything else. Any bad spots or worm eaten apples throw into the garbage.

Run all of the cleaned apples through a juicer. Put the pulp into your big primary bucket & put the juice into your big ass pot.

Heat the juice to 200 degrees, add 3 to 3.5 pounds of honey per gallon of juice (depends on what yeast you're using) and stir until well mixed (and still at 200 degrees.) This is to pasteurize the apple juice and kill any wild yeast or other microbes. Don't boil it, 200 degrees is fine. You should have about 7-7.5 gallons of juice from a full bathtub of apples plus a crapload of solids.

Add 1 teaspoon of Fermaid K nutrient, 1/2 teaspoon wine tannin, and 2 crushed campden tablets, stir that bitch up good.

Pour that on to the apple solids in each bucket. Mix it quickly, and make sure it's still at least 185 degrees F. This will pasteurize your apple solids. If it is under 185 degrees, then either pour in some boiling water and get it back to temperature OR siphon some juice out, reheat that stuff and pour it back. This is the ONLY time you can add ANY water, and if you're quick with the apple juice you won't need boiling water and it will turn out MUCH better.

Wait 24 hours.

Pitch your yeast. For this brew I make a big ass starter of the WLP-099 or the Wyeast 4347. With 3.5 pounds of honey per gallon plus the 100% apple juice liquids, I end up with around 35-37 Brix, giving me a high potential alcohol. The WLP-099 typically eats it nicely if step fed and aerated daily for the first week to give around 22-23% ABV while still finishing sweet with 3 pounds per gallon of honey and the Wyeast 4347 it will finish slightly sweet at around 20-21% ABV.


Let it sit on the apple mash for 30 days, for the first week use the Carboy stirrer to mix it up good, every 3 days add 1/3 teaspoon yeast nutrient for the first 9 days (so initial addition during creation of the must, and an additional 1/3 teaspoon on days 3, 6 and 9 so 2 teaspoons total fermaid K.)

Let the mash sit unmolested from day 12 to day 30.

Siphon that off into glass carboys for secondary.

For this step I normally pull the mead through a 5 micron and then a 1 micron filter (both in a single pass with my filtration setup) this doesn't remove the yeast, but it makes sure no apple particulate is transferred into your secondary. It will still be very cloudy though, to the point where it is opaque, that's fine.

Hit the carboys with some CO2, either from wine preservation spray or the paintball canister setup like I said.

This is where I add spices and any other flavor. I have made a number of differently spiced Cysers, but my typical secondary includes 1/16 teaspoon of ground cloves, 1/8 teaspoon cardamom, 1/4 teaspoon of freshly ground nutmeg, 1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground cinnamon.
After 30 more days I rack it off that, passing it once again through the 5 and 1 micron filters.

Then I hit it with CO2 to prevent oxidation and bulk age it. It doesn't move for at least 6 months, 12 if I can leave the carboys full for that long. After 2-3 months aging you can swap to a solid bung as you don't need the airlock anymore.

The mead will clear during aging. When it's transparent, it is ready to bottle. I do one more pass from my carboy through a 0.5 micron filter into another carboy, then siphon into my bottling bucket. I don't like bottling with my vacuum pump I suck at it and just make a big ass mess.

Yea it's a lot of work, but it's some of the best Cyser you'll ever have, and it's got one helluva kick so take care when you drink it.

Looks pretty easy. The basic steps are Sand, Seal, Stain, Finish

1. Sand - Get a Random Orbit Sander and some 100 and 220 grit pads for it. Use the 100 grit to sand everything down until it looks like new again, then use the 220 to sand it all nice and smooth. Do a good job here, because poor sanding will show up in the finished product. You don't need the random orbit sander for this and could do it by hand with a sanding block, but the machine will do a better job of sanding and do it in about 1/20 of the time.
   
   
2. Seal - I've used Minwax pre-stain conditioner. There are instructions for how to use it at the link
   
   
3. Stain - Get a nice oil based stain and apply it. I use a foam brush to apply the stain, wait about 30 seconds, then wipe it off with a cotton rag (old t-shirts work great). Wait a couple of days after staining before proceeding to step 4
   
   
4. Finish - This is always the hardest part, because it's the part that will show/bring out any imperfections that were left in the previous steps. You'll need to find a dust free room (floating dust in the air will land on the finish as its drying and become embedded in it). My favorite finish is wipe on poly because it applies easily with a rag (another old t-shirt, cut into strips), and doesn't leave runs or brush marks. I typically wipe on one coat a day, applying each coat on top of the previous one. I'll normally do three or four coats. Some people say you need to sand between coats but from my experience I don't see any difference between sanding and not sanding, except that sanding takes off some of the finish, requiring more coats and also requires cleaning the piece between coats.

The prices for batteries are high because they can be. I have sold power tools for a few years and their are actually pretty good margins in them. Especially the bare tools. That is why, if a user needs a new battery, their best bet is to buy a kit to keep the batteries and part them out. For example, a Makita BL1830 Battery is 100.00 at Home Depot but you can get an LXT211 for 251-279 when on sale. It comes with 2 batteries, a charger, drill, and impact. All of which are sold for over 100.00 by themselves. This is why you see so many bare tools on Ebay for good prices. People buy the kits and break them down. There is so much profit in tools that you could purchase either of the kits below, break the parts down, and make pretty good money selling them on Ebay:

lxt211
dc970k2

Amazon will sometimes sell the 2nd kit for $89.00. DW9116 Charger -$15 DC9098 Batteries - $20 DC970 Drill - $34. If you search these on Ebay, you will see a couple sellers doing this. Hell, you could even break the items down and sell them on Amazon.

> Anyways, despite knowing that mini/midi lathes are destined for dissatisfaction and replacement

I kind of disagree in your case. I know the tools you like to buy, but look at a lathe as a bench grinder. I don't think you own a Koch or a Tormek, so good enough really is good enough.

Like a grinder, a lathe is infinitely useful for stuff around the shop. Making cross pins for planes (takes me like 3 minutes to make a cross pin including squaring the stock), knobs, pulls, file/chisel/rasp/knife handles, vise knobs, eccentric bench dogs, etc. It's a pretty endless list. I'm not a big turner but I use my lathe almost as often as my drill press.



This one is really good. If you absolutely cannot have anything central machinery in your shop, this is the same one with a different name plate.

I'm not sure what your definition of big purchase is, but a lifetime mini lathe is about 500.00 For 500.00 you get variable speed instead of pausing for 90 seconds to move a belt. Unless you are turning pens or bowls, VS isn't a dealbreaker.

I've done a few chimney's before order yourself this and this. The hammer drill has a setting to use it like a mini jackhammer this will allow you to pop the bricks out one at a time. Go buy a big canvas drop cloth (tarps just seem to tear) and put it on the grass. Set up some scaffolding (you can rent this for just a few bucks a day) but make sure to place it in a way that if the chimney were to fall (super unlikely) it won't take you with it. If you want to do it the easy way go rent a manlift.

Honestly a chimney like this is probably only only about 2 or 3 hours of demo and the clean up time will depend on what you have to haul the bricks away. If you have a truck that will tow it go rent a dump trailer. You can then just haul them to the local dump and dispose of them as construction demo (usually pretty cheap). And with the dump trailer you don't need to unload them.

If you get a couple of guys to help you (I shouldn't have to say this but don't let them load while you toss) you could pull it off in a day easily. I did a 3 story chimney with my FIL a few years ago that was in the middle of the house, so we had to use buckets to haul out the bricks and we sill pulled it off by late afternoon.

It completely depends on your financial situation, but I would recommend just buying your own tools. You will get more than your moneys worth if you hang on to them for 5-10 years. Which is very easy with proper care.

Here are some cheaper yet not terrible options on Amazon. These should get most jobs done around the house.

• Orbit Sander $28
  
• Assorted Sanding Disks $20
  
  
  Total of $48
  
  
  
  If you want to go with another method outlined here you can use a regular drill. Tons of uses for a drill other than sanding down your skillet.
  
  
• Drill $30
  
• Coarse Wire Brush attatchment $9
  
• Fine Wire Brush attatchment $6
  
  Total of $45
  

I researched forever for my first lathe, and finally decided on the Nova Comet II. It only $549 on Amazon AND it comes with a free Chuck (which is an absolute must). It's variable speed and reversible. It's super durable and you won't grow out of it. I absolutely love mine. I got free 6-mo financing with an Amazon Store Card and paid it off over a few months.

https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-46300-Variable-12-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B00C2ASVNY

Myself (and 417 other people) can't recommend this set enough.

Yes, it's expensive, but honestly of all the tools I've ever purchased, I use these every time and I'm still amazed by their quality. Even if you think you don't need both an impact driver and a drill, it's amazing to have both.

Also, going to slightly disagree with the post below recommending a table saw. I've found a 10" compound sliding miter saw a much more useful tool for every day around the house stuff than the table saw (which requires a decent bit more space too.

At 2-20 cabinets I assume these are private facilities and not Co-Location facilities.

It all boils down to well-thought out standards that align with your needs & requirements.

Plenty of good recommendations in the thread already, but I'll chime in with some of my favorites.

1. Equipment Cabinets as tall, wide and deep as possible.
   

• Floor space is finite. You can't (easily) make the equipment room bigger. So use all of the vertical space that is available to you.
  
• Devices & equipment keeps squeezing more capabilities into the same 1U and 2U form factors, often at the expense of additional equipment depth.
  
• 900 and 1000mm deep cabinets are just not cutting it anymore. Standardize on 1200mm depth, or you'll regret it soon.
  
• I like this PDF from APC here as it provides a clear illustration of the problems encountered when you are forced to install a deep device in a shallow cabinet. Ignore the concept that maybe you don't use Cisco UCS servers. Someday somebody is going to buy a device as deep as that UCS enclosure and want to mount it in one of your cabinets.
  

2. Air Flow, Air Flow, AIR FLOW !!!
   

• Hot Aisles and Cold Aisles.
  
• Where will the hot air go?
  
• Where is the cold air coming from?
  
• If this is a small, 6 cabinet environment, having a big assed 36" industrial fan in the room for just-in-case is a brilliant investment.
  

3. I don't want 110V power in the server environment. Everything in the cabinets is 220V.
   

• We deliver 2 or 4 x L6-30R connections to each cabinet.
  
• My initial response to a request for 110V power in a cabinet will be very negative, bordering on hostile.
  
• Anything that is 110V-only isn't data center grade. Go find a better product and come back with a new request.
  
• Yes, I will eventually cave in and meet the needs of the business.
  

4. Yes, I fully agree with having a permanent stash of consumables in the facility (if this is a private facility).
   

• 1" or 3/4" velcro by the roll.
  
• 12" medium-duty zip-ties.
  
• Label Printer and a cable labeling solution.
  
• Flashlight, multi-bit screwdriver, Cage Nut tool. In a larger facility I want an electric screwdriver, but small & light not big and powerful Like This, NOT Like This
  
• Patch cables, Fiber jumpers, SFP/SFP+ optics
  
• I don't want a Co-Lo provider to provide these things for free. Such a service will be abused and the costs of that abuse will be passed forward to us.
  
• I love seeing a credit-card enabled vending machine outside of the data center floor with these things in it. I'll put a $10 15' CAT6 patch cord on my AmEx in a heartbeat if it saves me from having to sign out of the facility and crawl into my car because I'm one cable short.
  
  
  ...
  
  
  I had more thoughts, but I've lost them...
  
  

I used a power drill for 95% of the drilling. I got one of these off of amazon. I typically had the speed set to the middle speed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075N68KRZ

There were some spots that I used a pin vise but not to many. I couldn't imagine doing the whole thing with a pin vise. The bits would break so easily with out some type of vise to hold the model steady. One thing that did help, which I wish I had done for the main super structure. Was to drill the holes when the pieces are still on the trees. This made it much easer and faster for the trench. For the super structure you will have to cut away a lot of material on the main component to do this. However it will be worth it. I drilled the superstructure after glueing the detailed pieces onto the main component. So I was drilling through two layers of plastic. I broke a number of bits doing that.

​

​

People will come out an tell you to get Dewalt/Milwaukee/Makita/Rigid. You really cant go wrong with any of them. Pick the one you like from these four brands by going in to home depot and testing their hand feel. The 18 volts are awesome for the extra power and I own a Milwaukee set.

I also own the smaller 12 volt lithium Ion tools and they are awesome. I use them more often than the 18 volts (cause of size) generally, but they aren't up to, say, building a deck. If you don't plan on using the drill for more than once or twice a month for simple jobs they are generally a pretty good deal.

I know, no-one takes it seriously until they try it. Of course your mileage may vary on how big the tuner hole is and how thick your toothpicks are, so you may have to double up. Then break em off so the toothpick doesn't run into an adjacent tuning post. If you're gonna change strings the next day you might as well leave them in, else pull them out with a needle-nose plier.

The cordless screwdriver isn't faster than you can do with a string winder, but it's easier. The one I got: http://www.amazon.com/Decker-AS6NG-Alkaline-Cordless-Screwdriver/dp/B004HY3APW/ref=zg_bs_552750_1

You could make your own bit if you're handy with that sort of thing, I got one like this one http://www.instrumentoutfitters.com/ZAP-IT-STRING-WINDER_p_2173.html

Good luck with it!

You definitely need a good dust mask like this one and you have to wear it all of the time. Plywoods, laminates and some exotics can be an immediate problem also. Working in a garage is nice when the weather is good you can keep a lot of your dust outside. I have a walkout basement shop with a deck over the door so as long as the weather is nice I try to do my sanding outside. If you can afford it a Jet or Powermatic air filter helps. If that's too costly a couple of 20" box fans with 20" x 20" MERV 11 filters on them works okay.

> I just got back into brewing after having not brewed since the 90s

I think things might be a little different now in terms of availability of supplies. Here's my input.

Opinion: Adjustments with acid flavorings are typically better done right before bottling. They don't change the pH too much,

I wouldn't use Fermaid-K for rehydration. IIRC, DAP is toxic at high enough concentrations. (F-K contains DAP.)

Opinion: Boiling the must isn't necessary. Fact: It's fallen out of favor among certain top meadmakers. No-heat is extremely viable for mead. Even when I make a mead with tea, I make the tea first, then let it cool to room temperature before mixing it with honey. It takes some muscle to mix it up well enough, unless you have a drill with a stirring attachment, in which case it takes about 30 seconds to get the mead fully mixed and completely aerated.

Opinion: You're making plum melomel. More plums! A plum mead would be really good with a little leftover sweetness.

Amazon Smile Link To Same Product :)

I'm a bot, beep beep boop.

Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

Cheers!

As a maintenance guy at an apartment complex, I disagree. I have an 18v Dewalt XRP and one of these little guys and they both get a good amount of use. My coworkers and I have even taken to calling it the mighy might because of how deceptively strong it is.


Case in point, I once got a call around midnight for a kicked in door. I get there to secure it for the night until I could replace the jamb the next day. As soon as i start driving screws with my Dewalt it dies. Its late, the cops are gone, and this place is shady as fuck when the sun goes down, so I decide to bust out mighty might. I wasn't expecting much since I was using 3" screws directly into studs, but I'll be damned it it didn't power through and get the job done. little guy saved my ass.


It's also the shit for hanging blinds. My big bulky drill is super uncomfortable to hold in the corner of a window and drive a screw straight, but lil' mighty will knock that shit out lickety split. I've had mine two years and I aboslutely love it. Once it dies for good I will definitely be grabbing another one.


BTW mine is the plug in model, it lasts about a day with moderate use on a full charge.


Here is a link to the exact one I have.

Squiggle wood is really cool, but what can it actually be used for aside from a demonstration of squiggle wood. The precision and accuracy of the jointmaker is probably it's best selling point, but that still doesn't come close to justifying the price. IMO.

Lets use specifically the kapex... it's really pricy

Vs the Bosch axial which is much more affordable and I do believe it to be an even better performer than the kapex.

You end up paying for the Festool name rather than quality of tool.

There isn't much difference between the HF and the grizzly. I'm pretty sure they are in fact the same machine. Some parts may be cheaper on the HF (motor, belt, etc) but even those might be identical. Neither is made by their respective brands, they all come from the same factory in china. The same goes for all benchtop lathes that look like that one. The factory might use higher quality components for some brands... really, you need to jump up quite a bit in price to get a better benchtop. The Nova Comet II comes to mind. I actually bought one of those for my dad for fathers day this year. street price is around $500 on that one but you won't find many better benchtop models.

Different motor technology = more efficient and longer lasting. More expensive, however.

I've got the Milwaukee M12 tools (their "lightweight" line). Does it have the whoopee of my 18v DeWalt XRP tools? No. But it's got more than enough for all the DIY stuff I've done, including some jobs that most people would say required heavier tools, such as deck building and concrete drilling. Just yesterday I drilled some 6" deep, 1/2" dia. holes in concrete with my M12 hammer drill. I had a Bosch Bulldog hammer drill sitting 15 feet away, and I didn't even bother to get it because the little M12 worked just fine; a bit slower, obviously, but better control.

In short, I'm a fan. The FUEL M12s are better yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BEE2LU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

You can buy this right now on Amazon for $79usd.
I absolutely love this drill. Mine came with the charger and an extra battery. The battery life is incredible! It's been ready to go every time I've reached for it. It has a battery life indicator in the form of 3 green leds that count down the battery so you can easily see when its getting low. It feels great in your hand. Plenty of heft but compact in size. Its the last drill I know I'll ever have to buy. It's built like a tank. Last week I was using it and I could see that I was on one led of power left. I knew I had fully charged the backup battery and put it in the case with the charger like 2 years ago. Slapped it in and it was fully lit ready to rock. Put the other one in the charger and it was done in less than an hour. I've had plenty of cordless drills in my lifetime and the most frustrating thing with them for me has always been needing it infrequently and always finding it needing a charge. That will never be the case with this drill.

Sometimes I find the handle on these to be too small to easily break loose some screws.

I like my Ratcheting T handle screwdriver, it's easy to use, adjustable, and ratcheting which is great for longer screws.

I have tried some powered screwdrivers and they are great, but without an extension they can be hard to use inside a case or in tight spaces.

If they hat fat handled precision screwdrivers for cheap that would be great.

I really appreciate the response. So I narrowed my search down and I am definitely getting him the DCF887B, along with DCD791 (kit https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK283D2-Lithium-Brushless-Compact/dp/B01A08YKV6/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1498459399&sr=8-11&keywords=dewalt+kit)

I was able to find out from him that he needs a sawzall, aka a reciprocating saw. Is there a unit you would recommend? I am looking at these ones:

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS380B-20-Volt-Li-Ion-Reciprocating/dp/B007NVSTCK/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498459181&sr=1-1&keywords=dewalt+sawzall

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS367B-Brushless-Compact-Reciprocating/dp/B01M69K91R/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498459181&sr=1-2&keywords=dewalt+sawzall

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS387B-20-volt-Compact-Reciprocating/dp/B00ODN0S70/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1498459181&sr=1-3&keywords=dewalt+sawzall

Thank you!

Bosch 12V is probably a better bet if you really want a smaller/lighter drill & cylindrical batteries.

might want to look into a cordless screwdriver as well. Because you get the clutch of a drill, and the chuck of an impact driver.

or get the best of both + more

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GSR12V-140FCB22-Flexiclick-Driver-System/dp/B074GYX6XG

Damn, make sure you clean that out regularly. People have burnt their house down.

Go get this:

Bosch Power Tools Rotary Tool - 11255VSR Bulldog Xtreme Rotary Hammer Drills For Concrete – Use For Overhead Drilling, Demolition, Anchoring – Corded Hammer Drill For Crew, Contractor, Construction https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BB79Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F9sUCb5ANYAV7

And this:

Starrett KD0414-N 4.1/4-Inch Diamond Grit Holesaw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CD1V8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l8sUCbT69WR45

And this:

7/16” Hex Shank Hole Saw Arbor, Fits 1-1/4” to 6” Hole Saw Quick Change Heavy Duty Alloy-Steel Mandrel with 3 BONUS 1/4” Precision Drill Bits Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DN9SKTD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D.sUCb01DPGAB


Make sure you back off on the drill and let it do the work and don’t let the big overheat.

Check amazon vs home Depot or Lowe's. If you think you'll ever use any of the stuff in the combo kit, the kits are great. And with it I would just buy one of the assortment attachment kits that comes with different drum Sanders, polishers, cut off wheels, etc. I'd you don't think you'll ever use the other tools in the combo kit, I'd still recommend getting the corded version that comes in that kit.

Dremel CKDR-02 Ultimate 3-Tool Combo Kit with 15 Accessories and Storage Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLJ3AR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_f5cmDbGY3PQ3A

Dremel Rotary Tool Accessory Kit- 710-08- 160 Accessories- EZ Lock Technology- 1/8 inch Shank- Cutting Bits, Polishing Wheel and Compound, Sanding Disc and Drum, Carving, Sharpening, and Engraving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHGJHMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c6cmDbZ76X0DA

I bought one of these a while back, and it's great for this sort of work. It's cordless, and much smaller and lighter than a dremel. You can easily hold it like a pencil for really precise control. Obviously it doesn't have to power to do a lot of the stuff a dremel does, but for PCB work, it's perfect.

I'd recommend a kit like this one. I stick with the Dremel branded kits because they're not that expensive and you never know what kind of quality you'll get with the cheaper knockoff ones.


I think a lot of people have too high expectations of what a Dremel can do. Its not a very powerful tool, and only well suited for small tasks.


For cutting metal, the 1 1/2" EZ LOCK cutting wheels are the only way to go.


The rough stone looking attachments are sanding stones, and are quite abrasive, although can break relatively easily if you put too much pressure on them. They're for rough sanding, not polishing.


You can get polishing attachments for dremels, and they work well on small things.

I'd recommend getting a rotary tool ($46 for a B&D one on amazon, plus plastic cutting bits) instead of the hole saw, it's a more universal tool that can pretty easily cut circles in plastic for a bit more money. I just used mine last night to cut holes in lids and it worked like a charm.

[mix-stir tool] (https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E) you can find them cheaper, or make one.

they are good for aeration, and also for cooling the wort too (once you are under 120F or else you risk melting the plastic fins)...you can mix the wort so hard that it will create a whirlpool and you will see the bottom of your kettle if you get the angle right. very powerful.

i also use the mix-stir tool for when i add oxyclean to a vessel and want to stir it into the water without clumping. the mix-stir will make the best lather in a few sections, with no left behind oxyclean graduals

You can probably use a dremel, but things like a flap disk or belt sander would remove material faster. If you already have a drill press and want to save money, you can get these which are inexpensive, but for ~$10-$15 more, you can get an angle grinder and flap disk.

This website has a lot of handle materials and spacers. But there are plenty of other websites, too. Plus I don't know if they ship outside the U.S.

I got this. It's the best small driver I have found. It's small enough that you can fit it into tight spots, and plenty powerful for rack screws. The torque limiting clutch is nice; I set it to the lowest when I'm driving hard drive screws so I don't strip the heads off later.

For my new datacenter install, I specified all Torx fasteners. I've had bad experience with old frozen Phillips rack screws, and Torx are easier to drive off-axis, and of course they don't cam out by design like Phillips does. There are some oddball things, but for the most part it's all Torx. Yay!

Are you limited to that budget or can you go over? I got the Bosch GCM12SD a few months ago and it is awesome. Literally every worker who comes over and sees me using it is like "Damn that is a nice chop saw".

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004323NNC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I dont have a shop so I keep it on this stand and wheel it in and out of my shed when I use it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VZNEM0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got the laser for it as well but I never use it, just as easy to line things up manually.

I like my Bosch stuff. I didn't buy it as a kit, but I own the tools included in the CLPK224-181 kit.

I make my living as an Apprentice Electrician and I think this stuff is overkill for home use.

At work, the only time I use my drill is when I'm running unibits. Any other time, I use either my impact or my 12v drill.

Link to 18v: Bosch CLPK224-181 18-volt Lithium-Ion 2-Tool Combo Kit with 1/2-Inch Hammer Drill/Driver, Impact Driver, 2 Batteries, Charger and Contractor Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OKGAIUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ODh6BbWEAA6B4

Most of the drilling I do at work is into sheetmetal. My 12V does just fine.

Here is a 12V kit that meets your specs: Bosch 12-Volt Max Lithium-Ion 2-Tool Cordless Combo Kit CLPK241-120 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009K1HMBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRh6BbPY6GA4F

They also make a 12V tool with changeable heads: Bosch GSR12V-140FCB22 12V Max Flexiclick 5-In-1 Drill/Driver System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GYX6XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B0h6BbA79AQ2A

That drill will fit in places the others won't.

I own and use a PS21 at work every day. With the 4.0ah battery, it goes a long time on a charge. I mostly use it to drive screws, with a good amount of up to 1/4" holes in sheetmetal electrical boxes.

Not bad, I wonder how it compares to this drill: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DC970K-2-18-Volt-Drill-Driver/dp/B002RLR0EY/

I guess you get an extra box, but it seems like the dewalt gets better reviews, is 1/2" instead of 3/8", and is nearly the same price.

you can find a complete kit on amazon for that price...although they arent the top of line name brands...i started out with these models and slowly over time have replaced and upgrade...in my experience they have worked just fine...and hold together great until your ready to dive into badger and what not...
http://www.amazon.com/Multi-purpose-Airbrush-Compressor-Instructional-Quick-Connector/dp/B001ATALCW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1393919390&sr=8-3&keywords=airbrushing+kit

http://www.amazon.com/Paasche-TG-SET-Airbrushing-System-Compressor/dp/B00AI5ZJBW/ref=sr_1_47?ie=UTF8&qid=1393919425&sr=8-47&keywords=airbrushing+kit

Get a fan and blow it across the workpiece away from you, if you have to work in an enclosed shop get an air filter. If your jigsaw has an attachment port, put it on a shopvac or dust collector.

If you are really worried you can wear a full face respirator but acetone is pretty harmless stuff, your body naturally produces acetone and is quite capable of metabolizing any that gets into your system, it is somewhat of an eye irritant but you won't go blind.

This is the best response here as you already have the tool.

Dremels generally have a router attachment available for them, so you can control the depth that you're cutting to. Put a normal cutting bit into your dremel, and go to town routing a recess in the back of your piece to whatever depth you need.

Long term, pick up a router. The larger motor can handle bigger bits, and will save you a lot of time cutting these kinds of pockets quickly and easily.

If you can go a little higher, I'd recommend the Nova Comet II (NOVA 46300 Comet II Variable Speed Mini Lathe 12-Inch x 16 1/2-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2ASVNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_itR3AbTP1GG2G). It's what use (and what I got started on), and is a pretty nice workhorse for a bench lathe that's still reasonable in cost.

Well there you go. That was easy! Thanks for the advice.

You might be interested in something like this or this

They have cheaper ones similar to this if you go to Home Depot or Lowes. They're small, light, and perfect for driving in screws.

Certain dremels come with a router attachment that can help you route a rabbet. Here is an amazon link https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4

I definitely wouldn't go cordless for this job. Popular Mechanics had a review of corded hammer drills a little while back.

If you're going to be doing this a lot, I would recommend getting a rotary hammer and not a hammer drill. I would recommend the Bosch Bulldog for the job.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GFINJ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I swap batteries daily with it, does the job perfectly. Battery swap from 10 mins to 2 mins (without battery connector tool)

​

Any bag works, just be careful of the battery connector, and the power accidentally being turned on. Other than that, you are golden. PS, you may need battery connector tools if you don't have them, reach out to boosted for those.

​

Edit: I don't recall if my drill came with a 4MM hex bit, but you may need to buy one that fits the drill. Buy drill then take it to local hardware saying you need a 4MM hex to fit it.

Pricey but Wow

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GCM12SD-120-Volt-12-Inch-Glide/dp/B004323NNC $695

http://www.cpotools.com/bosch-gcm12sd-12-in-dual-bevel-glide-miter-saw/bshngcm12sd,default,pd.html?ref=pla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=66&zmap=GCM12SD&gclid=COiWw4Hew7cCFZE-Mgod7X4AHw $769.99

I almost agree. Take a step up to the 18v models though.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2691-22-18-Volt-Compact-Impact/dp/B001F7BIMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1312164846&sr=8-1

Same price, and is a hell of a lot more powerful. I am halfway through some major renovations, and aside from wishing I had the bigger batteries sometimes, I am very happy. Drives a 1 1/8" spade bit at high speed through old pine, and will put a 2" holesaw through 1 1/2" of plywood and glue without much of a problem.

Amazing work. Do you think this is feasible using the Dremel 335-01 attachment?

How about an air filtration system? Something like this or this

They're commonly used in wood shops to collect saw dust and other fine particles, but seems like it fits your application.

In addition to what's been said, I would try to find a way to blow your dust out of the room. I work out of my garage, and I use a squirrel cage fan aiming the flow out under the slightly opened garage door. This way air circulates through the shop, clearing lots of the fine dust outside.

Other than that, air cleaners might help.

I'll second the sentiment on size and weight. If all you are doing is putting stuff in walls then 18 volt is over kill. I'm not a big dewalt fan, I have some of their stuff but my go to brands tend to be makita and then Bosch (with a recent liking of porter cable and Milwaukee). For what you are doing anything from a major brand in the 12 to 18 volt range is going to be fine. You might want to go to a hardware store and hold a couple to get a feel for them and judge the weight. In the 100 range, there really isn't a lot of difference. The other thing to consider is batteries, look for a kit with two if you can. Its always nice to know you have a charged spare.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS31-2A-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Batteries/dp/B003BEE2LU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369011960&sr=8-1&keywords=bosch+12v+drill

If the only improvement you're after is labor savings, you can keep using your Mini Mill! Just drive it with this inexpensive device, and make sure you don't run it too fast.

IMHO considering something like this will be used on every batch, I wouldn't hesitate to spend a little more on something I knew was made from the correct materials.

When you say whirlpool paddle, are you attempting to oxygenate or are you just trying to gather trub in the center of the kettle? If attempting to oxygenate, might as well just get a wine whip, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=wine+degasser&qid=1568906877&s=gateway&sr=8-7 . Otherwise you can always use a spoon to stir the pot as it's cooling; the upgrade there is usually a pump system.

Man I know the budget is limited, but Ni Cad is not the way to go!

You have a few options around that price. I would stick to a decent brand (DeWalt, Bosch, Milwaukee, Makita) and maybe look at a 12V to stay in that $100 range. Although maybe you can find a Black Friday deal on an 18V, but a 12V should be enough to get started and do basic DYI stuff around the house.

Here are a few options:

Bosch 12V Drill

DeWalt 20VMax Brushed or Brushless for about $20 more

Makita 12V Drill and Impact Driver Combo

Makita 18V Hammer Drill

Also Amazon is having a special on Makita, DeWalt and Bosch tools where any tool $100 or more gets $25 off.

Like this set, https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2691-22-18-Volt-Compact-Impact/dp/B001F7BIMG/ ?

Will the Kregg drill bit fit?

You mentioned a router... How about getting a router with a variable speed motor and chucking up a 1/4" shank sanding drum? You will have decent control over the grit and you'll be able to easily guide the router around the curves.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D3292-Drum-Sanding-16-Piece/dp/B001XQMRH4/

McMaster has a good selection of sanding sleeves.

Amazon link.

I'm glad to see that the design has barely changed. It is kind of slow and really heavy, but this thing is built like a tank. It has been dropped several times from ladders, paint and water and gas splashed on it, and banged around in the junk drawer for decades.

I realized that not including pictures, mementos, and a few t-shirts, this may be the possession that I have owned the longest.

DeWalt power drill with bit set and angle adaptor. Perfect set for someone newly living on their own or for someone who just doesn't have their own power drill. The angle adaptor is particularly handy.

That's overkill IMO. This would be more practical for furniture. I have a similar NiCad one that works great.

https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-Li2000-Rechargeable-Screwdriver/dp/B005LTNLDS/

Quick use of one of these screwdrivers and the board is now mine.

Also this doesn’t look like it can accommodate a boosted / esk8 board’s battery.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK283D2-Compact-Cordless-Driver/dp/B01A08YKV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_29?keywords=dewalt+impact+driver&qid=1575073156&sprefix=dewalt&sr=8-29



This is the kit from amazon. The lowes kit (same price) also comes with 1 free brushless tool.

Invest in some drill drum sander parts like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001XQMRH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mount your drill in a vise (if you don't have a press) and it will make your sanding effort a lot easier in those hard to reach places.

Here's my list:
-Good sidewinder with electric brake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RQ68V2/ref=psdc_552922_t2_B000N5SVEY Cast alloy foot is stiffer and less willing to bend when you drop it, beefy knobs permit easier and more accurate adjustment, brake prevents you from setting it down on the cord while the blade is still spinning.
-12 volt compact cordless https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PS31-2A-Lithium-Ion-Batteries-Carrying/dp/B003BEE2LU
-Folding sawhorse/bench https://www.amazon.com/Target-Precision-RB-H1034-Sawhorse-Complete/dp/B00005A1KE
Total: $850

I would assume that the cnc aproach can work with plastic prints as well, but you will have to watch out for the heat produced by the friction again. So you would need to spin at a low speed in order to avoid melting the print.

I personally recently tried this mini rotary tool. At speed setting 1 it's slower spinning than the big one I have and that helps to not heat up the plastic as much, so it doesn't melt
https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Tacklife+mini&qid=1563179042&s=gateway&sr=8-9
You can even use regurlar size tools, as it has 2 fittings.
I also bought some of these which seem to work well with it.
https://www.amazon.com/Breynet-Sanding-Polishing-Grinder-Accessories/dp/B07GJKY5PD/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=dremel+600+grit&qid=1563179279&s=gateway&sr=8-4

​

I haven't used it for anything serious, just tried it on some old prints I had laying around, but it seemed to work fine.

This is an updated version of the Black and Decker Cordless Screwdriver that I've had for years. I like the angle position so you can address hard to reach spots, but as said before there's not really one that is head and shoulders above another, so if you have tools from another brand that you like, go with the matching brand.

Prices aren't shown on the Home Depot site, but on amazon it is more than twice the price of the 5in B&D.

Though, the B&D doesn't say it's variable speed. Maybe that's the difference? Is it important?


http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-RO100-5-Inch-Random/dp/B0000302V3/ref=sr_1_2/175-1871714-6992552?ie=UTF8&qid=1427466816&sr=8-2&keywords=Random+orbit+sander

The difference between good mead recipes and bad mead recipes is basically just nutrition. You take a gravity reading and adjust nutrition from there, or you target a OG in the first place. Nutrition is covered pretty extensively on the wiki, if you go and poke at it and don't understand I'll help you with whatever you need.

The ones that collapse really just degas, they don't aerate that great and they are kind of expensive, but they are better than trying to shake a carboy for sure

https://www.amazon.com/Northern-Brewer-GK-FZ2V-0QIS-Stainless-Mix-Stir/dp/B0064OG79E/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1CT39XMP9GDQ4&keywords=wine+stirring+wand&qid=1574100177&sprefix=wine+stir%2Cindustrial%2C194&sr=8-6

With drill presses, I like the old adage: a bad drill press is far better than no drill press.

I'd go pick up some 100 dollar thing, or (depending on your needs), even a dremel plunge router attachment will work. I use one of those for drilling butt joint pilot holes. obviously not as powerful/deep/etc as a full press, but good enough for my modest needs.

You're getting downvoted, but you are probably right. The batteries that were most commonly marketed as 18V were substantially heavier.

The difference is the battery tech: The 18V one would be NiCad, the 20V one is LiPo. LiPo's have much greater power density, so they use a smaller battery to get the same capacity. The also hold a charge considerably longer between uses and don't have the issues with memory.

You could also get a heavier battery by increasing capacity (more use between charges). That's probably not the case here since they would likely both be 20V if they were LiPos, but it's possible.

Edit: Err... LiIon, not LiPo.

>Pumping air into it via a turkey baster

that visual just made me giggle.

it all depends on how much head room, and what container you have.

Shaking could give you a geyser, adding air via a turkey baster wouldn't likely do anything, but you could use it to stir slowly for a bit.

If your in a bucket and have good headspace, you could hook this up to a drill and give it a few spins mid bucket.

​

edit: wasn't done... hit save to soon.

I'm using a 2x48 Dayton belt grinder

A little cheapo Skill drill press

A 5" vise

A kydex press (Homemade)

A little buffer

A dremel tool + Kit

Tons and tons of abrasives

A lot of files

___

Here's a few from my instagram :) https://imgur.com/a/6o8zm41

No. Get Milwaukee. Have owned a few and these are the best. http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2691-22-18-Volt-Compact-Impact/dp/B001F7BIMG

I've used the crap out of mine for two years and batteries still last a long time.

Dewalt set is also good: http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK265L-18-Volt-Compact-Lithium-Ion/dp/B002WJUEMG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381084507&sr=8-2&keywords=dewalt+drill+kit

I was able to get mine from Amazon for $370 when they were at an all time low last year. I got the extended bed for the difference. I'm pretty happy with it.

I've mostly turned pens, but I've used it to make a baseball bat, vases, bowls etc.

https://camelcamelcamel.com/46300-Comet-Variable-12-Inch-2-Inch/product/B00C2ASVNY

You should be able to get these at your local hardware store for pretty cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001XQMRH4/ref=pd_aw_sims_1?pi=SL500_SR115%2C115&refRID=082YF0H44WVZT0N8EWN7

Or just buy one of these Bit Sets and never need to use one of those keys again. Couple it with this Black and Decker Small Drill and you just made all furniture assembly significantly easier.

I've created my very first two dice! (IMAGE HERE) The A-B die is for playing Bivius. The other die is to use as a YES-NO oracle (includes symbols for Yes and, Yes, Yes but, No but, No, No and)

The painting method works fine, although it can be a little bit tricky.

Engraving them with the tool I got was easy, except that its potency doesn't last much because it uses 2 AAA batteries, and they run of juice fast! I've just bought a better tool to ensure I don't encounter such an issue anymore.

Get a Dewalt drill and impact driver combo kit (2 drills). I know you say you want 1 drill that does everything but it’s SIGNIFICANTLY more efficient to have 2. Drill a pilot hole with the drill then set the screw with the impact driver. This way you don’t have to keep switching the bits back and forth between drill bit and screw driver.

Price History

• Tacklife PCG01B 3.7V Li-on Cordless Rotary tool -- Three-Speed with   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★☆ 4.2/5 from 512 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Don't make a Rookie mistake, check the prices.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Famazondealsus%2Fcomments%2Fe3ergy%2Fcordless_rotary_tool_37v_expires_1129lighting%2Ff92khsc%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

Do you think, this system is any better?
http://www.amazon.com/708620B-AFS-1000B-Filtration-Electrostatic-Pre-Filter/dp/B00004R9LO

Maybe take a drill, place it in a vise, the use a drum sanding drill bit like these? https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D3292-Drum-Sanding-16-Piece/dp/B001XQMRH4/ref=br_lf_m_bv4y9v7p5tba8wp_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

Would something like this https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?keywords=dremel&qid=1559086310&s=gateway&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1
be able to do the job?

I'm in Canada so imagine the frustration I have when buying Tamiya paints with the included 13% tax in Ontario.

My solution? Dupli-color spray paints, top-coats and primers.

As for cost effectiveness...I use 1 can of dupli-color primer for 2 to 3 1/144 kits. I decant 1 can of dupli-coilor primer and use my air-brush, I can say I haven't finished up my can of primer yet and I already finished primer on 5 1/144 kits. I bought a can of dupli-color paint shop flat top coat for $35...I already sprayed 5 kits with my air-brush...and the can is practically still full.

I highly recommend this combo: http://www.amazon.com/Paasche-TG-SET-Airbrushing-System-Compressor/dp/B00AI5ZJBW/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_51?ie=UTF8&refRID=0T210JWE0MTRVVHM1DXW

I️ have an electric screwdriver that does the trick and much more portable than a drill, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LTNLDS/ref=zg_bs_552750_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FSBS17NZ19RTBQ2WTED3

Let's see here.

drill - $89.00

bits - $14.99

grommet kit with punch - $14.99

So your solution costs $118.98

12 binder clips - $4.83

You can get an attachment for the Dremel that will let you use it like a mini-router.

I have one like this, that I got from my LHBS

I use this guy, lots of power, not heavy, not too fat if you are working around stuff, I really like it.

Bosch

Edit: I imagine this would be even lighter, but I've never used it.

Quick follow-up. Just found this little guy on amazon. looks like the 3-years-newer cousin to the one i got now. anyone got any experience? I see they advertise drill bits with this one, so I would hope it chooches a little bit faster... but i'd rather know and hear it from you guys than the seller.

I ordered these a little while ago...not as long as the ones in the video but for $11.40 you can't go wrong.

http://www.amazon.ca/Woodstock-D3292-Drum-Sanding-16-Piece/dp/B001XQMRH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420558539&sr=8-2&keywords=drum+sander+kit

Tell that to amazon. some of their "list prices" are way more than that item has ever sold for anywhere.example i bought elsewhere after shopping around a lot, i never saw it over $800

I would say just get something like this kit. To be honest even if you wait for fathers day these sets tend to be around $20 in price even "on sale." According to cammelcammelcammel the lowest it has been in the last year is $17 and change.

direct u/callofdoobie spam-bypassing link

Please report this post and user u/callofdoobie for violating the rules for personal profit.

Its this one I got on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4

Here's the same one on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/3320-02-120-Volt-10-Inch-Drill-Press/dp/B003LSSS0W/ref=pd_ybh_7

Aside from coming with a "coarser" blade, how would it be aimed at construction vs cabinetry? If the Dewalt isn't accurate it should just need adjustment. Personally, I lean towards the DeWalt (I want a 12" sliding double Bevel Compound Miter saw one day) because I can'y justify the extra money on the Bosch beast

I got a black and decker cordless screw driver for this exact purpose. +/- $20 on Amazon. I'll track down a link shortly for you. Worked like a charm before I said fuck it for on the press trimming and went back to my zip trim.

Edit: BLACK + DECKER AS6NG Alkaline Cordless Screwdriver https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004HY3APW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.9Fsyb4X9WK90

It takes AA batteries so you can replace them instead of having the factory battery slowly fuck off like they do.

also, decent electric screwdriver.
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-3-Position-Rechargeable-Screwdriver/dp/B005LTNLDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418257962&sr=8-1&keywords=electric+screwdriver

im all about manually doing it with a high quality precision kit, but if its what he wants, it must suit a need.

Just slip one of these in your carrying case!

These aren't are the droids drills you're looking for

This

Get a Bosch Bulldog. They are typically $150-200. I am an electrician and we have one on every truck.
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11255VSR-SDS-plus-BULLDOG-Xtreme/dp/B000BB79Q6

https://www.amazon.com/708620B-AFS-1000B-Filtration-Electrostatic-Pre-Filter/dp/B00004R9LO

Even these ones?

https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-3320-01-10-Inch-Drill-Press/dp/B003LSSS0W

Where are you located that a brand new Bosch miter saw is under $300? That saw is $600 at Home Depot and Amazon, right now.

I either use these:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D3292-Drum-Sanding-16-Piece/dp/B001XQMRH4/ref=br_lf_m_bv4y9v7p5tba8wp_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

Or:

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Hawk-Mounted-Wheels-Aluminum/dp/B01MDQW98P/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1539429033&sr=1-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=flap+wheel+sander&dpPl=1&dpID=41vmTZGsF0L&ref=plSrch

Of the correct size. I put them on a drill press or they can be used in a drill

The Nova II Comet was literally just on sale (on Amazon) it's currently listed out of stock, but it was 479 with the g3 chuck.

You can get it right now without the chuck for 443 (https://smile.amazon.com/NOVA-46300-Variable-12-Inch-2-Inch/dp/B00C2ASVNY/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00C2ASVNY&pd_rd_r=PRNFDTRGP0MVR202FWE0&pd_rd_w=JQkum&pd_rd_wg=KYmcN&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=9YS7ERBDCJAMAXRRZW38&pf_rd_r=9YS7ERBDCJAMAXRRZW38&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop) and the chuck is 99.

Agreed.

Link for US buyers: https://www.amazon.com/Tacklife-PCG01B-3-7V-Cordless-Rotary/dp/B075N68KRZ

BOSCH 12" ARM SAW:

http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe=off&sa=X&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS461US461&biw=1599&bih=809&tbm=isch&prmd=imvns&tbnid=VhOggZf9hETkKM:&imgrefurl=http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-GCM12SD-120-Volt-12-Inch-Glide/dp/B004323NNC&docid=SUBz96dGGZyFbM&imgurl=http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51o1ZQTMCqL._SL500_AA300_.jpg&w=300&h=300&ei=np17T5iRBarD2QXX59WnAw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=475&vpy=138&dur=536&hovh=225&hovw=225&tx=147&ty=132&sig=108206764076847164418&page=1&tbnh=142&tbnw=138&start=0&ndsp=32&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:0

I bought my 20v dewalt kit over the 18v because the batteries weigh half as much.

Edit: American dewalt 18v versus American dewalt 20v.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xpWCpvsoEU

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RLR0EY/ref=s9_hps_bw_g469_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-5&pf_rd_r=0Y8FEK8Y5MC72QRAC8WJ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1275635522&pf_rd_i=228292

better go with this one

Not all their tools are bad.

For instance, this AA powered screwdriver combined with this set of bits makes a really handy kit for light around-the-house work like assembling furniture. Running off alkalines means that it won't go dead sitting on the shelf for six months between jobs.

The battery-in-handle tools are decidedly light duty. I love my little 12v Makita drill, but I generally use it for taking car interiors apart.

For a do-it-all drill, you want one of the big boys. My Milwaukee M18 has retard strength.

~$215 for a drill/driver combo on Amazon. [A steal, IMO] (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2691-22-18-Volt-Compact-Impact/dp/B001F7BIMG/ref=pd_sim_469_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=513Qi0GJzoL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=00ZE200FGN98EM09V5CN)

The equivalent Makita set is more expensive, although it does come with the bigger batteries...I doubt most people actually need 3-4Ah batts, though. I prefer the small ones because it saves a lot of size/weight and the spare is always ready to go before you can drain the one in the tool.

I've heard a lot of people say that, and I won't deny it. But even as critical as I am of cheap manufacturing in China, I can't afford $270 for a drill when I can get another quality drill for $90. 3x the price just isn't doable, at least for an amateur.

All I can see is bending the hell out of the motor rod on your first real use. Plus that isn't' exactly a powerful motor, so what is this really going to be able to handle? Even their "ready to drill" demonstration what to poke 1/32 in holes.

The fact they used a real drill to make it is even better. Maybe very thin materials in hard to reach places? But even then you can pick up a real one for $10

For those who are lazy, it's $32.95 on Amazon and has 4.5/5 stars with 34 reviews.

JET 708620B AFS-1000B 550/702/1044 CFM 3-Speed Air Filtration System with Remote and Electrostatic Pre-Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004R9LO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WK8IxbA1ZHDMQ


PLUS a dust collection system on all power tools and either an exhaust fan or an air mover to exhaust out of shop.

By exhausting out you help create negative pressure prevent it from making it into the house.

A dust collection setup does so much to help with stray dust.

I do pest control and termite work. We ONLY use Bosch SDS hammerdrills. We probably drill out around 400 half inch to 3/4 inche holes per house, and try to get at least two jobs in during a normal day. Bosch is rebuildable if there is an issue, and can be had for less than 200 dollars. This is what we use for drilling into foundations (horizontally) we drill 1/2 inch holes through the block, sometimes solid concrete. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-11255VSR-BULLDOG-SDS-plus-D-Handle/dp/B000BB79Q6/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1377122483&sr=1-1&keywords=bosch+hammer+drill
and this is what we use when we have to downdrill or for big holes (1 1/2 inch wide) or when we use long bits (24 to 36 inches) http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RH328VC-8-Inch-Rotary-Hammer/dp/B003DQO7ES/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1377122483&sr=1-2&keywords=bosch+hammer+drill

if you had a dremel, it has a router kit

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-335-01-Plunge-Router-Attachment/dp/B0000DEZK4

and a cheaper one that usually comes with it, for like 6-7 dollars

but ive only used it for smaller wires, ill be ordering that bigger one since it has a guide

It's that cheap for a fucking reason. That's not a "drill" that's an electronic screwdriver. Ain't gonna get shit done with that piece of trash.

If you want light, cordless, and not bulky, but still worth a damn, get shit like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BEE2LU/

DeWalt makes a solid power drill that fits your budget. This is the one I have. Lots of power and durably built. DeWalt has many other tools that accept the same battery.
Here are a bunch more with various battery sizes. Not sure of the advantages of the various battery sizes, but I have no complaints with my 18v.