There's a perfectly serviceable FAQ here which SHOULD answer the mail here, but for some reason, despite the frequency of newbie posts, no one on the mod team has increased the font size of that link on the sidebar SO PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY SEE IT AND READ IT (Seriously mods, get with it). I'll make a "Teal Deer" version even though I oughta know better by now.

1. I don't see any reloading manuals on that list. Buy at least two reloading manuals and read them. Did you read them? Yes? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? Good. Read them again. Did you do that? LiarGood. You still sure about this? Yes? Ok, now you may go buy your equipment. Notice how you bought and studied some manuals and then went to buy stuff? Ok, just checking.
   
   In addition to the manuals there's some good Youtube videos out there you can watch to see what the books are trying to explain, but realize some people have better habits than others. Some guys do some pretty trick shit, but that's for advanced users only; fun to watch, but not necessarily a "try this at home" type of thing.
   
   
2. If you're doing this for the money, most return on investment will be with the "uncommon" calibers, .30 carbine paid off my Lee Challenger setup after 700ish rounds. If you want to make pet hunting loads for each of your rifles you'll save dollars per round off premium .308 and .30-06 too. Conversely, it's hard to make a return on 9mm until you've bought components in bulk. Bulk in this case is defined as a couple thousand projectiles and multiple 8-pound cannisters of powder. Here's a good source for price comparison if you need some hard numbers to convince your wife to let you spend save money on this new wallet draining endeavor.
   
   
3. Opinions will vary wildly, but if you're dead set on starting but really aren't sure if you'll stick with it, get a quality single stage press. Scour your favorite for-sale-by-owner websites for used tools, and keep an eye out for deals on Amazon. If you don't stick with the hobby, a quality single stage will be easiest to get most of your money back on when you sell it on ebay or RapelistCraigslist. If you like it, a quality single stage will always come in handy when you make special pet loads for accuracy, even if you upgrade to a progressive some day.
   
   If you're plan to load for bulk, which I'm guessing is your case because you're looking to do 9mm, a turret/progressive press hybrid like the Lee Classic Turret Press, where you can take the indexing rod out and use it as a single stage if need be, might be a much better choice for you. You can start out learning in single stage mode and add the indexing rod later. Single stage and 9mm is TEDIOUS (Ask me how I know...I own a Challenger like the one you have listed) Opinions on progressive presses vary, and merely by mentioning the Lee I fully expect to receive at least a half dozen unsolicited opinions replies on the matter. A progressive is pretty much mandatory if your primary purpose is to chase savings by loading pistol calibers or .223 in bulk.
   
   Here's my recommended list of stuff; I recommend NOT buying the Challenger KIT, because most of the stuff you'll want to upgrade later or will find you'll never use it. Take the money you're saving by not buying the kit and get the turret press I mentioned above instead. You'll spend a little bit more on certain items by going a la carte because there are a few places where not skimping gets you way more value. Buy the dies from whoever you want, quality level is up to you. For plinking purposes, and even most special tuned loads, Lee is just fine.
   
   Buy the press and one or two calibers of dies, then buy a good digital scale, a good chamfer and deburring tool (not that shitty Lee abomination. Seriously, fuck that thing. Your hands will thank you), a cutter (plus associated gauge and shell holder for a drill), a powder funnel, a puller for when you inevitably dick it up, and a nice set of calipers and you're off to a solid start for under $350.
   
   We could also get WAY into tumblers and the benefits of wet vs dry, but I'll leave some leftovers for others to talk about.

1. Depends on your experience. If you're new to teching, getting something good off the bat is my recommendation. If you want a nice middle ground, get an ICS. Good internals out of the box, and split gearbox makes it easy to work on.
   
   
2. Flat-hop or r-hop for range and consistency. R-hop is better, but more difficult/time consuming, so might be worth getting it professionally done.
   
   
3. A good mask or goggles that don't fog are a must. A Dye I4 or Dye I5 are best if you want a mask, and the Pyramex I-force are very nice for goggles. For a lower face mask, if you're using goggles, the One Tigris mask is very nice.
   
   Mid cap vs hi cap is really just preference. Mid caps are more realistic, don't make any noise, and don't need to be wound. Hi caps are easier to load and hold a lot more ammo.
   
   UTG makes some good optics. I have their Magnifier and short dot, and their red dot is pretty popular as well. If you want cheap, the Field Sport red dot is supposed to be pretty solid. Bushnell and Primary Arms are on the higher end of micro red dots, at least for airsoft. I have the Primary Arms and it's real nice.

The kit works, in that you can make quality reloads with it. There are better components but at least you can find out if you enjoy the hobby before sinking too far in. If I were you I would buy the other kit.

With the single stage I found myself working in large batches. I would size and deprime everything that I had in that caliber. Then I would tumble. Next expand the case mouth of everything I had clean. With the hand primer you can sit in a comfortable chair priming and not be at the bench the whole time. I would prime a couple of hundred cases at a time and store them until I was ready to load.

The press is good quality and will last you a long time. If you want to churn out large amounts of ammo you will be upgrading. However, a single stage press is always handy to have around.

The scale is fine. I prefer a digital but that is just me.

The powder measure is the weakest point of the Lee kit. It is stiff and leaks if you are using a fine powder. AA#5 leaked right around the barrel on mine. It did not measure 700X well at all but that was more of a powder size issue. If you are using sphereical powder like CFEpistol or Win231 it meters fine. It was the first part I upgraded. A metal powder dispenser like the hornady is more pleasurable to use and does not leak like the Lee.

The case prep stuff works but if you start loading a lot of rifle rounds you will want to get a better deburring tool quickly.

I'm not sure if this comes with the Lee manual or not. That and the powder funnel are the two parts of my kit I still have. There is a lot of Lee advertising in the manual but there is lots of load data with different powders and projectile types.

If you want to see if you enjoy reloading it is a good place to start.

A 4-16x50 scope translates thusly:

"4-16": Magnification range. Magnification is adjustable from x4 power to x16 power.

"50": The diameter of the forward most lens.

Lens Size As you magnify, less light is being transmitted through your lens, so while your picture might seem bright and normal on x4 magnification, your x16 magnification might look kind of gray scale and dark. Best way of fixing this: Make the forward most lens bigger to gather more light. Pros: You can see in low light and better at long magnifications. Cons: Adds a lot of weight.

Tube Size There are usually two sizes you'll see—1" (small and light), and 30mm (bigger and heavier). While the 30mm tube is heavier, it does transmit more light, and will also allow more space for windage and elevation adjustments. Pros for 30mm: Extreme long range adjustments, better light transmission at night and at high magnification. Cons for 30mm: Adds a lot of weight, especially if you're never shooting beyond x12 magnification, or at night, or at 400+ yds.

Gas Purging Most scopes are nitrogen filled. Nitrogen differs in weight to Oxygen, so the seals on the scope are more secure, which means less moisture in the scope, which means less fogging. A step up is to use Argon or other treatments that do even better. While a Vortex Crossfire and a Vortex Diamondback might be similar in price, the Diamondback is argon purged, and has better light transmission and seals.

Glass Coatings Think of glasses lenses. If you don't get anti reflective coatings, light bounces off the lenses, which means less light gets through—which is a big deal at x16 magnification. The better the coatings, the more light gets through. Naturally, the better the coatings, the more expensive the scope.

Glass Quality Diamonds have a clarity scale. The clearer the crystal, the more light gets reflected in the facets. Similarly, not all glass is made on the same level. High end scopes will use glass that is clear as they can manage. Getting the impurities out of the glass means more processes, which means more money.

What I personally would want in an AR scope in your application range:

• 4-12x44. Max range on an AR is close to 500yds. If I were doing 1000yds with a .300 Win Mag, I'd go with a 6-18x55 or something similar.
  
  
• 1" tube. If my magnification is only to x12, and I have at least 40mm forward lens, I should get enough light transmission as it is. Plus, it will be light. The AR15 was made to be light. Keep it that way.
  
  A couple of suggestions along that range:
  
  First place: Vortex Viper 3-9x40, $264.90
  
  Second place: Vortex Diamondback 4-12x40, $164.99

For cheap/free accessories, here are my recommendations:

Find a local astronomy club and go to a few meetings. Astronomy clubs love new members, and they'll answer every question you have. If they have an open observing event, bring your telescope and you might even get to try a few of the accessories others have mentioned. You may get to see what Saturn looks like in your telescope with a 10mm EP and barlow before you buy.

Also, there are club members with old EPs for sale. Somebody's always upgrading their collection and looking for a new home for their old Plossls.

If you have basic woodworking skills, you can make a Denver Observing Chair for <$30. I think I made mine from these plans, but there are plans and how-to's all over the web. It beats hunching over the eyepiece for hours. Your back will thank you.

An accessory case is nice to have. Keep all your stuff in one place, and you won't accidentally forget something when you go out to observe. I use this 4-pistol case for $20 from Amazon.

If you're learning the night sky, get a planisphere and go out with it for 10 minutes once a week for some naked eye observing. Learn a new constellation each time. I think WV is in the 30-40 degree north range? Or for free you can download and print the map each month from SkyMaps.com

For getting started finding interesting stuff in the telescope, a book like Turn Left at Orion was a great help for me. Step-by-step instructions for star-hopping to the best and brightest stuff in the sky.

I am pretty much in the exact same situation as you. I have been researching moderately as we are hoping to start this winter. I just spent last weekend shooting with a guy who has been reloading for 40+ years.

He told me to first get a handbook. He recommended the two he had; Lyman 49th edition reloading handbook and the Hornady Handbook Of Cartridge Reloading. He said either is a good first choice, but mentioned Lyman's first, so that is the one I am getting.

The auto-progressive is what I have heard is the best setup for producing more ammo in various calibers. Usually more expensive from what I understand but by splitting it 3 ways should allow for you guys to handle it.

As far as everything else goes, I would consult the handbook. The handbook that you all purchase, you all read, and all try to fully understand front to back. Serious business when things go boom. Jokes aside, I am sure you are taking this seriously, but when dealing with explosive materials and things that can kill you, you have to trust your friend in making them as well if you are all splitting costs/liability.

On a side note - things that we have talked about in my group is a buyout option on the gear, you just never know when people end up having to move away, get married and their SO puts their balls in a vice and forces them to start chipping away at their collection/equipment. Or maybe they just don't have the time anymore.

Other things we have discussed is associating labor hours with ammo payout. If someone cant make it a few nights to help out, are they entitled to an equal 1/3^rd ?

Again, I don't reload, just sharing the advice I was given. I am sure utilizing r/reloading is part of your research, it's one of the reasons I subscribed.

Sorry for the length. Hope this helped.

Good luck man, and have fun!

The last thing he told me was "You're not going to save any money at all but going to shoot a lot more!"

TLDR: Get a good handbook.

Hey, we can always try to help you. Ar15.com might have a better forum but that's a semi-closed off website compared to reddit.

Just from the looks of it the Sig Micro Red dot you posted looks a lot like an Aimpoint T2. The Aimpoint is top of the line (think, best you can really purchase) as far as quality is concerned. I'll be the first to admit I don't hear much good or bad about Sig Optics so I won't act like I know how well they hold up.

An entry level red dot would be something like the Holosun for 170$ compared to the 340$ you might pay for the Sig Dot you mentoined earlier.

In my opinion, there's three tiers of optics you can buy. You can buy horrible Chi-Com shit from China that will cost you 35$ total. You can buy entry level optics like the Holosun, Vortex, or Sig (low price to high), or you can go all in and get a top shelf optic like an Aimpoint, Trijicon, or [debatably] an EoTech.

If you're worried about "overpaying" for low quality, but you're willing to spend 350-400, buying an Aimpoint PRO would be right in your realm. You'll receive extremely high quality glass for a decent price. They retain their value over the years, and if your husband knows anything about firearms, he'll be super happy with throwing it on a rifle. (edit: your post history says your husband is familiar with Special Operations Units, so I know he'll have heard of Aimpoint).

Buying him a Holosun or the Sig red dot would be a good alternative, but if you can justify it in your budget, get him something you know he'll be happy with. An Aimpoint is hard to beat. He can save up another 200$, re-sell the PRO and upgrade himself to a Aimpoint Micro if he's looking for that style of optic down the road.

So this is a month old but I have some insight if you haven't already started a certain path.

I just bought a 300blk upper for my pistol. I have a lot of 223 brass I've saved to and decided to reload for 223 to save some money. Well I'm pretty well into reloading for 223 and decided i would start for 300blk as well. The equipment isn't too expensive (relatively) if you get some Cabela's sales and buy some discounted gift cards. Full equipment with necessary parts will run about $250 after everything (can be cheaper if you buy a bundle pack).

This kit

Digital caliper

Initial 300blk dies

Trimming die

Trimmer

Case lube

That's pretty much it for the equipment side. Then you'll need bullets, powders, and primers.

If you're starting out with 223 brass you may want to cut the case before trimming, but you'll need something to cut it with. If you buy some ammo to shoot and collect the casings you can't use them too.

I have everything I need for 300blk except powder pretty much. I just need to find something to use.

So $250 for equipment and 1k round of 223 reloading will cost me about $175. That's $425 for the first 1k round of just 223. Once I buy stuff for 308, 300blk, and 9mm I'll start saving in much higher quantities per round. I think I'll probably actually start saving money through reloading in a couple months if I shoot as regularly as I'd like. I still buy ammo on sales and all, so I typically don't count brass into my cost for a reloaded round. On average it's about $.18/round (for .223) if I don't find good deals.

Edit: so I just went through and did some calculating. .178cpr for 223, .285cpr for 300blk, and .362cpr for 308 of I get good sales and free shipping.

Looks great! What is the barrel length and gas system length you used? Any other specs you care to show off?

As for critiques, if you have the space and cash get a tipton single piece gun rod or something of the like (brass screw togethers can become marred after some use resulting in bulges where the rods connect potentially interfering with the rifling) I've had my tipton rod for years with no issues but have gone through 2 sets of brass rods and one set of aluminum ones (they work pretty great for pistols though) and again thats after a lot of use and probably some abuse

Or an Otis system they also make an all inclusive set which includes a travel kit with it definitely pricey but something to look into, combining that with a single piece rod has been the main stay for my cleaning needs and takes care of all my firearms and calibers

Also a bore snake helps a great deal and works well but is caliber specific


As for the rifle it looks awesome!

This is what I use now. I got a great deal on it when someone at Amazon fucked up and listed it for $32, but even at $65 it's a great deal. Tons of room to expand your collection and hold misc gear. IMO it's more space efficient than a typical eyepiece case (which often has two layers of foam that only get utilized if you stand your eyepieces straight up, or deliberately stack them in two layers).

A rifle case lets you lay all of your eyepieces and equipment out flat without wasting much room, or requiring you to dig into multiple layers of foam to get gear at the bottom.

If the idea of a 36" rifle case isn't your thing, then the next best option is the Plano Extra Large Seal Tight case. I have two of the previous versions of these made by Doskocil that have lasted me 25 years (including the foam). They are the best value of this style of case you can get. The Harbor Freight 4800 is cheaper, but the foam is really fragile and will start pulling apart over time.

As far as budget low, variable magnification optics at or under $200:

I have used the the v-plex version of the Crossfire. I use a lot of Vortex, from this up to the Viper and long-range stuff and am happy with them.

That said, for under $200 the Weaver V3 has the best glass (made in Japan) and is the lightest and most compact. It seems to have the closest to a true 1x of the scopes as well. And the Bushnell PCL FFP 1-4 is the most feature rich and has similar if not better glass to the Crossfire for under $200. It is FFP, illuminated, but heavy. I'd go with either of those over the Crossfire. But they are good scopes for the money and you get the fantastic Vortex Warranty.

Any of the above scopes would likely be a better option than the Primary Arms 1-4 (which would be better than anything from the avoid always NCStar,Barska, etc.) but the Primary Arms 1-6 or Vortex Strike Eagle will both be a potential step up and are excellent for the money and have solid companies behind them. But they are in the $250-300 range.

In your price-range I'd just get the Weaver V3. Simple, light, good glass, and inexpensive.

I personally like to Co-witness with irons especially ones that are as minimal as the Scorpions are. They are great sights on their own and stay out of the way when using a red dot. That being said, I went from a Vortex Sparc II that I LOVED. For the price you might want to look into these as well!

Of the options you're talking about, I would definitely go with the Holosun. The Spitfire would be HUGE on a Scorpion and the Eotech is just a little too bulky for the platform. Both of those would negate having such a small gun imo. I'm going to swap over to an RMR because its small and light and gets the exact same job done without being in the way at all. I might even do a Vortex Viper since their warranty is great and its like 1/2 the price of even the cheapest RMR.

I've used Holosuns in the past and I've found them to be every bit as good as an Aimpoint for what I'm using it for. They're awesome and cheap as hell. Even these Primary Arms red dots are incredible for the price. If you don't care about push button operation and are fine with a little dial to adjust brightness, you can get the same thing for like $90!

ORIGINAL POST (plz upvote this comment to send it to the top. SORRY. posted this from Narwhal and couldn't figure out how to correctly add this description with my pictures)

This gun grip tape does an excellent job of adding grip with no bulk. $11 on Amazon for enough material to do 2-3 phones. I personally like the look but realize it's not for everyone. Looks better in person. Just thought I'd share. I did this on an iPhone 6 two years ago and it left no residue after taking it off with the help of a little Goo-Gone. Thought I'd try it on the matte black iPhone 7. Here's a video someone else put up of what it looks like on an iPhone 6 Space Gray: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RrD_uPzXpCE --- I recommended starting at the bottom and cutting a 3 1/8th inch long piece instead of a 3-inch long piece like he suggests for the 4.7-inch iPhone --- Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7WXTJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fjP4xbQ0V9AMM

Wanted to add this disclaimer if anyone was wondering why the entire back of the phone isn't covered: I started applying it at the bottom of the phone first. While it does a great job adhering to the curved edge of the iPhone, there's not a good way to apply it to the corners of the phone, so I decided to start at the lowest possible point where it's actually covering the antenna line. Oh, also, an added bonus is that it lays flat much better instead of pivoting off the camera bump.

I would start with the Lyman 49th Edition and The ABCs of Reloading manuals. They give you a detailed break down of the reloading process and talk about different types of equipment. After you've read the manuals I recommend really thinking about if you are a good fit for reloading. While reloading can be a very rewarding hobby, it is a very serious hobby. You can end up severely hurt or even killed if you make a mistake. Being able to concentrate for long periods and be very exacting in the details are important. Not trying to scare you off, just reminding you that bullets are little explosions going off in your hands/near your face. Mistakes can turn a little explosion into a big one.

I also made a post about equipment here, but it isn't a replacement for a good manual.

Why are you interested in reloading? Looking to save money? Increase accuracy? Just because it looks interesting? Either way I recommend you read this post on the economics of reloading.

What are you looking to reload? Rifle? Pistol? Shotgun? What are your time, space, and budget constraints? Knowing this we can help you pick equipment to fit your needs. Overall the basics are:

Manual
Scale
Calipers
Press
Dies(Sizing/Decap, Expanding, Seating)
Shell Plate
and probably a chamfer/deburr tool

There are different levels of each of these so knowing what your requirements are will help determine which level you should be looking at.

Just wondering, do you have a budget in mind? If you do I could recommend stuff within that budget.

Edit: Anyways, here's what I would recommend just to start you off with:

M4 RIS
Magpul vertical grip
Red dot sight (for faster aiming)
Dye i4 Mask(These things never fog, fit glasses really well, and is low profile enough that you can still use the iron sights. I would recommend a beanie for head protection)
Condor Chest Rig(Not the best quality, but enough for Airsoft, also has MOLLE weaving so you can swap out the pouches for other MOLLE addons)

I would not recommend a sniper rifle because they need a lot of costly upgrades in order to be effective. Also playing the role of a sniper in a game is boring, you just sit back and shoot all day. You may get a lot of "kills" but in the end of the day, you're just robbing yourself of the fun/adrenaline rush of being on the front line.

Also I would not recommend a pistol until you really feel like you need one. Most of the time, especially if you play CQB, you're not going to run out of ammo any time soon, and your primary isn't going to suddenly die on you for the most part. If you do decide to buy one, I would recommend a Tokyo Marui pistol, even though it's plastic, it shoots the best out of the box and is super accurate, has crisp blowback, and they make unique pistols that other manufacturers don't make, also avoid the M92 like the plague, it's a lemon design. Echigoya

I noticed someone else recommend Liberty Safe, and though I'm sure they were recommending the full size options, I was browsing and noticed their pistol boxes. The Liberty biometric smart vault for handguns looks exactly like the Inprint. I've actually had decent luck with the Inprint in terms of it reading the finger print. They are definitely just a box of thin sheet metal though. I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for, but if I couldn't get a small normal gun safe, I'd consider the heaviest jewelry/document/cash style safe I could get, or maybe something like the Fort Knox pistol safe mounted somewhere.

Knowing what you know now, make sure to get a good safe. The most important thing is that it can't be picked up and carried off - so bolt it down. And don't go for just the cheapest one you can find. This one is my favorite. Its very heavy duty and will keep anyone from a quick smash and grab. Mechanical combo is good because no battery to worry about dying on you in the worst possible time. The one downside is that this style of combo lock has a small number of combos so someone really dedicated could spend a few hours and brute force the combo.

Also note that most safes are not really "safes" and can easily be cut into with a grinder. If you get a rifle safe try to put it somewhere that people don't see easily, and is in a hard place to access like inside a closet where they can't get good leverage or to the sides of the safe.

EDIT: pointed out that I was sounding like a simple Stack On gun cabinet is not enough. That should be fine. You just need to make sure the gun is secure from the kid and if you leave it at home, would take more than 5 minutes to get at for a burglar. The point I meant to make about the "most safes are not really safes" is that a cheap stackon cabinet is about as secure as any safe you're going to spend a couple grand on. For a safe/cabinet/lockbox that can be picked up you still want it bolted down.

Well because it is $250 retail does not mean it's worth $250 (think of when you go to a head shop and something has a price tag of $250 and you can easily haggle it down to $100). I could have just used my $50 18mm GonG bong (that is honestly nicer than the hydratubes) with the unit inverted if I really wanted the water filtration. For me the wait ended up not really being worth the hydratube. Like I said, if you have other vaping options that you are happy with and can wait the month+ (if and when they re-drop the item) go for it. I said pretty good deal, not amazing by any means. To me an amazing deal would be money off the actual unit.

Also: VapeXhale charges $125 for their TravelBuddy carrying case. You can buy the same exact thing on amazon for $12. Another example of retail vs. actual value.

Yes, it's specifically this CYA holster from Amazon. It's pretty decent, much like /u/kittendestroyer69 mentioned. I only use it to (mainly) appendix carry or kidney carry as it does move just a little and prints worse for me when carrying around 3/4/5 o'clock. I'll likely move to something with a little more natural bend and taper to the body, like a leather or leather/kydex combo or something.

But I do love this holster for slim appendix style carry, I'm a fan of lightweight, minimal, and sleek. Just easily leaves a mark on your skin if you're walking exceptionally long distances or doing any running. Easy to adjust the tightness of the holster as well as the cant angle with an Allen wrench.

At first, I didn't think I would get more than two rifles, so I opted for the Plano foam-padded case. I bought two so I could lock up both rifles (from the kiddos, not thieves), and not take up a ton of room in my house. They're very good cases, and I would recommend them for traveling (either road trips or flying). If you get one of these, don't trust the built in locks, and buy some decent (long bolt) padlocks. Negative: They're not great for taking to the range. They're bulky, and awkward if you need to set them out of the way while you're shooting.

Of course, I bought a third rifle on an impulse, and it came with something like this for free. I actually ended up using this more than the hard cases for range trips since it's much more compact/maneuverable, and just carries the essentials (a few magazines and a good-sized pouch for tactical Skittles). For a one-rifle person, this is probably the best value, and more practical for most people's needs.

That said, few of us actually stay one-rifle gun owners for long. I just punted and bought a $100 metal gun cabinet from Walmart to control access. The nice Plano cases are now just used for traveling rather than storage.

My favorite, though, is a double carbine bag. Even if you only have one rifle (now), it's a great bag with plenty of extra storage. It will fit two sets of eye and ear protection and a lot of pre-loaded magazines along with two rifles. I didn't think I'd ever use the backpack straps until a few weeks ago when we decided to find a place to shoot in the National Forest that required a little hiking off the road. The bag really saved the day, and made the whole experience a lot more comfortable while packing about 40 pounds of rifles + ammo.

Just my $0.02.

Probably like 1.1x or 1.25x, straight 1x magnification looks weird. Vortex is one of the few real steel optics I'd say you should be fine taking to an airsoft field thanks to their absolutely amazing warranty of "no matter what happens, we'll replace it".

But if you want something suitable for airsoft that you won't worry about that's just a 1x red dot, I recommend the Field Sports one. It's on par with a $50 red dot I've got and it's way cheaper. Definitely the best bang for your buck red dot you can get for airsoft

I compared the Shield with the XDs and went with the Shield.

Shield is very thin.

I felt the Shield was much smoother to shoot. XDs had a "snap" to it that the Shield doesn't.

Since I've had the Sheild I have put the rubber Talon grips. What an improvement, and as far as I know, you can't put one on the XDs. However, the XDs does have a "grippier" grip over the Shield. But the Shield with the Talon grips is better than the standard XDs grips.

I also put the pinky extension on the 7 round mag I carry, and the +2 Hyve Mag extension on my 8 round mag.

I like the stock trigger and see no reason to modify it. It's safe and effective.

Next accessory will be Tricon sights.

With all of this, the Shield is hands down the best compact I have shot. Like everybody says, shoot a couple different pistols, and find the one that works best for you.

This one is pretty popular among shield owners: https://www.amazon.com/Pearce-Grips-PG-MPS-Extension-Shield/dp/B00HB1SYCC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542318311&sr=8-2&keywords=shield+magazine+extension


It's not so much about the looks rather the feel of the gun when you're holding it. I find extension really helps with my hand placement. Ultimately, you'll find out what feels best for you. Congrats again on the purchase.

Thought I would share a belly band I just purchased and tweaked a bit to suit my needs...

Here's the review I posted on Amazon:
This thing is great after some modifications, especially for the price! We'll see how well it holds up long-term.
I didn't like the retention strap or how the elastic held the gun in place, so I cut it off. I decided to modify the belly band a bit by shoving one of my Concealment Express IWB holsters into the elastic slot, and took off the kydex holster clip then screwed it back onto the kydex THROUGH the elastic so it would hold super securely, be fully encased in Kydex, and have the retention of a full kydex holster.

Very nice and comfortable to use now that it's been modified. I just put on the band, and then pull up my athletic shorts and use the clip over them as I would normally do on my EDC belt.

$25 on Amazon (+ CE kydex holster cost)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DEGYTC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So here's why that argument is silly. First of all, its an AR15, not an M4. Second of all, and most importantly, an AR15 can fill multiple different roles.

Let's say I hunt small game rabbits, snakes, foxes, and dangerous animals for livestock like coyotes, and wolves, and I also hunt larger game like deer or elk.

I could buy a varmint gun that only fires .22LR, another intermediate gun that fires .223 for the wolves and coyotes, and another larger rifle that fires an elk caliber like 30-06.

So that would come out to:

• Ruger 10/22 - 200$
  
• Savage Axis .223 - 313$
  
• Savage Axis 30-06 - 392$
  
  and since I'm a responsible gun owner, I now need a gun safe for 3 rifles so lets go with
  
  
• This safe - 245$
  
  So that comes out to 1150$, and I now need to take care of, clean, and potentially repair 3 different rifles. Well how about an AR15 instead?
  
  
• AR15 lower - 270$
  
• .22LR AR15 upper - 325$
  
• .223 AR15 upper - 375$
  
• 6.8 Remington SPC AR15 upper (also elk caliber) - lets take my friend's final price, 450$
  
  And we need to store these again, but a lower and 3 uppers takes up less space than 3 rifles so lets get this pelican case
  
  
• Case - 139$ and a 10$ lock.
  
  So that comes out to 1419$, but I only need to know how to take care of, clean and repair 1 type of rifle, an AR15. So I've traded a slight increase in cost for greater convenience.
  
  

Primary Arm ACSS $289

Primary Arms are good if you like the reticle, I used to own one and I enjoyed it but I upgraded and I honestly can't recommend the Primary Arms unless you love the reticle or want the extra 2x magnification. I can see better with the 4x Leupold than the Primary Arms at 6x. Glass quality is just stupidly better.

Bushnell BTR-1 $199

Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6 $300

Leupold Mark AR 1-4 Firedot $395
Seriously a Leupold for $400. AR Ballistic Turrets instead of caps. Firedot Reticle That you will be able to trade off when you get the money to upgrade. The Precision at Range is a bit crazy if you dial your elevation, especially compared to the ACSS

Leupold Mark Ar Duplex $289

Burris MTAC $325

Vortex Viper PST 1-4 $400

SWFA SS 1-4 $400

Steiner P4Xi $500

Super easy to install it comes with the pry tool to pop the pieces off. And the grips are solid, they should use these for the elite. I have an elite and a controller with the quickshot. And the trigger locks are a nice bonus unless you forget them on in a racing game.


I also used some of this stuff I have. It's easy to cut and stick anywhere you want grip. I have had some on my controller for 2 years and it's not coming off. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7WXTJS/
It doesn't stay stuck on what it is meant for very well though.

I've done 2 different carry options.
standard IWB and swapping out the belt clip with a UtiliClip. You can snap it to your pants and the belt covers the clip and there's enough gap to tuck your shirt between the clip and holster.
Or
What I have had the greatest success with, a belly band type holster. I use the ComfortTac. It works great. WAY more comfortable than any IWB I've ran.

I use this talon grip like grip tape I found on Amazon for like $12. I have a strip of it on my Appleseed rifle where my support hand goes when I'm shooting standing and all slung up. It's plenty grippy and durable and could be an option.

Triangular handguards are always gonna look good, Brownells has some rifle length in green on sale right now for $26.99...i think I need to build another rifle, haha.

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

> https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6

yes. i also got mine from amazon.

the parts that need improvement are discussed in the customer reviews near the bottom of the page. powder dispenser and scale are the items i remember getting lukewarm reviews. those parts are cheap to upgrade. so no worry.


you need dies for the caliber that you are reloading.

for some reason i have 2 sets of .223 dies. i know i purchased one, i'm not sure if the other came with the kit.

i purchased a 2" bench top cut off saw [$32]

a jig to cut my cases [$13] 300blk

a case length guage [$10] 300blk

ammo loading tray [$7]

dies [$39] for each caliber

digital caliper [$16]

frankford scale [$32]

frankford bullet puller [$16]

tumber kit [$75]

i spent a good month or so on /r/reloading before i actually purchased anything.

i asked questions and made a shopping list.

those guys are very helpful

research what you actually need for the caliber / bullet grain you want to reload before you buy anything.

double and triple check what powder you need as well. it could save your life.


i kinda over did it with supplies

haven't opened half the boxes yet.

The barrel casts quite a shadow. I may switch it out for an [Inforce WML] (http://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/inforce-wml-white-light-momentary-only_desert-sand/?gclid=CICoiPjDzrgCFRDZQgodpH0ARA), which looks like it gets a little bit more out there, but not as much as a dedicated light on a canted mount.

I really have it on there for the HD practicality, but take it off most trips to the range. While it is in the safe, I leave the light mounted with a magazine of 75gr Hornady Tap ready to go. A Glock 21 (with a TLR1S) lives next to the bed in a Fort Knox FTK-PB Pistol Box to help me get to the AR if needed.

Some mods you could do are:

• Paracord (from CeeSA or Paraflex Cables): ~€25
  
• Aftermarket feet (Hyperglides, Hotline or Corepadz): ~€10
  
• Grip tape: ~€10
  
  Just some additional info:
  
  
• Prices in Euro for consistency
  
• Paraflex Cables are US only
  
• Most people agree Hyperglides are the best quality, but are more expensive than hotline and Corepadz
  
• Some people also say that Hotline/Corepadz are worse than stock but it seems to depend on the mouse
  
• The most popular grip tape on this subreddit is GT-500 but there would be alternatives
  
• You could put grip tape on the mouse, on the grips or replace the grips. Example 1 Example 2
  
  Personally, I have a Paracord from CeeSA and it's amazing, definitely worth it.

[Lots of good reviews] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_fi.jzb4JVY3CG)

[Free shipping with code FSA1705] (https://www.natchezss.com/skb-i-series-5041-surplus-rifle-case.html)

Both of these cases have been featured on r/gundeals. They have a lot of great stuff over there.

The bottom link is a surplus case and the one I own personally. It is very tough and sturdy and a great choice if you plan on traveling. The top Plano is a bit more cost effective for storage and trips to and from the range.

Start with this: http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417275692&sr=8-1&keywords=lyman+reloading+manual

There are other reloading manuals, but I've found the Lyman to be the most newb friendly. It also remains a valuable resource as you gain experience.

I like mechanical, too. But took a chance and picked up the Barska Quick Access biometric a year ago and put in the upstairs closet. It's really just a biometric "safety cabinet" mounted to studs, but overall I'm satisfied with the purchase. I do recommend scanning multiple fingers, in case something causes interference with the scan (e.g. callus). It's been overall dependable and perhaps worth checking out, anyway.

But a prepared burglar w/ the right tools could open or walk out w/ it, given few minutes to spare.

Ah, good to know. I have heard good things about the Razor Slim (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAH8CMA), and these look like the same earmuffs but with bluetooth. So if you still wanted slimmer earmuffs, the Razor Slim is probably the best.

I haven't had any issue getting the Impact Pros to seal, but like I said they are big and bulky.

I prefer the Breech Lock Challenger Kit because it comes with a hand primer instead of the safety prime system (for priming on the press). Otherwise it's the same kit. I did an absurdly long YouTube beginners guide using the challenger kit. I think it is a great entry level option.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AU6EIIY

It's one of these. Although it was like 289 when I bought it so at this point it's down to the price of a nice replica scope. It's very nice for airsoft, ffp is really cool and very surprising to see in an optic this inexpensive.

Return your safe and get a Ft. Knox Pistol box. It has a simplex lock that you can open in the dark in a couple of seconds. I have one. Its built like a tank and super easy to use.

​

Ft Knox Pistol Box

I use this one as a bedside pistol safe.

https://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-FTK-PB-Pistol-Handgun/dp/B004H6MKI8

It is super durable, and I think the lock is a good blend of simple yet secure enough.

One thing that is worth considering for your husband is to carry a firearm while in the house. A comfortable OWB holster and a good belt places the loaded firearm in his direct control at all times. The other guns can then go into the safe.

If he's not inclined to do that for comfort reasons or just not wanting to carry in the house, there are numerous "quick access" vaults that can keep curious hands away without necessarily adding too much time for accessing the weapon. I would go for a mechanically actuated vault vs those electronic ones with buttons or fingerprint scanners. You don't want to be fumbling with electronics and sweaty fingers when time is of the essence.

Depending on the level of "readiness" that your husband wants to achieve, storing the firearms with loaded magazines but closed bolts/slides on empty chambers can add another layer of security/complexity towards discharging the firearms. Some may view it as a hindrance or something to forget in times of stress or injury, but it's worth considering all the options.

It's worth discussing with your husband the level of readiness he desires along with the element of risk that you both are willing to accept. Currently, it's pretty much grab-and-go from the closet. Does he move a gun closer to the bed when sleeping? If someone's trying to break in when everyone's around, is it a "honey go grab the gun" sort of situation? You already mentioned having to lock the bedroom door when family/friends are around. How does he feel about security when no one is home? While you live in a low crime neighborhood, most crimes happen during the day when most people are away. Also consider investing in upgraded/reinforced door frames, deadbolts, sliding doors, and windows. Those are elements that can buy you precious time in the hypothetical home intrusion to access the guns however they are stored.

Most importantly, make sure that you and your husband have a plan for such incidents. Make sure you know how to communicate with each other and have a plan for who goes where, does what, calls 911, etc. Might be worth stocking some basic first aid such as tourniquets and gauze as well.

Here are some mechanically actuated safes that seem to be relatively well-received:

Pistol shot-lock

AR-15 shot-lock


Here's an RFID vault

RFID Pistol

EDIT:
Here's some more mechanical vaults

Fort Knox


V-Line

My MK II has a BSA Sweet 22 3-9x40 ($50 on Amazon) mounted with some Weaver low-profile rings ($6 at Wal-Mart) on top of Weaver #24 mounts ($11 for 2 on Amazon). I had to remove the rear sight with a drift punch to allow the objective bell to clear the barrel properly. I do not recommend medium/high profile rings on this rifle; even with low profile rings I'm about 1/4" low on the cheek weld.

The scope is amazing for the money; it has enough elevation to mess around at 250 yards if you want, the turrets work pretty well.

Scope:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJUPAS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounts:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002PUOIB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I saw those also. Grey, Red, Green for Normal, Berzerkers, and Toxic. Looked really well done. That's a level of mastery of painting I don't have quite yet to get it to look right. Had a very Romero feel to it.


If you don't have a mini storage solution, I'd recommend a 15 dollar Plano pistol case for the minis.

http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Protector-Four-Pistol-Case/dp/B000P3WPKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406666714&sr=8-2&keywords=plano+pistol+case
One will securely and safely hold all of season 1 retail, zombie dogs, companion dogs, all season 2 base heroes, and half the zombies from season 2 and toxic city mall. I have 3 of them and 2 should be more than enough for everything that is Season 1 and 2. It will take up a lot more space but if you paint you need to keep them from bouncing around and ruining all that hard work. I love these cases and will probably get more for other mini based games.

field sport

ABB red dot

which is just the field sport on a qd mount

said red dot taking a beating

Its good enough for real steel good enough for airsoft and if it breaks your heart isn't gonna be sore

I'd very much recommend coughing up the extra $48 for an Aimpoint P.R.O. (Patrol Rifle Optic). Top of the line, exceptionally durable/reliable, and very reasonably priced red dot. Literally perfect for the X95. Superior even to most acogs or holo sights. 10/10.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GDR0I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4e.oyb19GP1W8

I have the Bushnell. Its just above your price range, but I'm really happy with it.

Bushnell Optics FFP Illuminated BTR-1 BDC Reticle Riflescope with Target Turrets and Throw Down PCL, 1-4x 24mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6EIIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r2MJyb4CMQTXS

And you need to buy rings too. So price ends up being around $300.

On my rifle. https://imgur.com/DdBA6MC

Like the others said, for under $200 I'd go with some decent iron sites though. Can never go wrong with that

For cheapness you can get a Fieldsport Micro Dot from amazon for $20 and a UTG Riser Mount. I do not recommend using these sights without a riser.

If you want to spend some actual cash on a really good optic I recommend either a primary arms T1 and riser or a [Holosun] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NC1G0KI/ref=dp_cerb_2). Dutch uses a Primary Arms but IMO the holosun is probably the best budget real steel optic on the market.

If you're worried, you can get something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Otis-Tactical-Cleaning-System-Brushes/dp/B0000C52A5

I have one that I can clean every rifle and pistol I own. They easily attach to a strap or molle web platform. As others have pointed out, unless you're in the mud or water (or own a kimber or something that rusts super easy) you shouldn't need to clean, but it's nice to have the ability.

It came on another shield holster that I had but didn't accommodate the TLR6. I think the manufacturer on that one was DFW, got it off amazon. The only reason I liked it better was that it had a little ridge down near where it hooks under your belt that made it a lot easier to get a grip on and unclip it from the belt to take the holster off. The holes for the mounting bolts were close enough to the same spacing that they swapped right between each other with no issue.

EDIT - sorry, the company was CYA, not DFW. Here's a link to the holster that I swapped the belt clip from: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A9BSSW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They also sell the belt clip individually: https://www.amazon.com/CYA-Supply-Co-1-75-Holster/dp/B01IW1O1IU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1500053556&sr=1-1&keywords=CYA+belt+clip

Those a great guns.

There’s a ton of information on cleaning rifles and pistols online. I suggest getting an OTIS cleaning kit, and going from there.

Here’s a decent start

It’s going to give you the bare essentials for cleaning multiple calibers.


Here is a link to the River Mini14 cleaning

Here is a video on how to clean the Tokarev.

Enjoy!

Yeah, I have an AEG. Is this the sight you are talking about? Are they bright enough for shooting in the sun? Are they metal?

Thanks for your help.

OK so it came in on Thursday but I just had a chance to try it out today.

I'd say it's definitely worth the money, but it isn't one of those things where you're getting a $250+ gun for $120.

The FPS is obviously really high on this thing. With just a little hop up added it shoots Elite Force bio .25s a really long way with no drop. However, accuracy is not fantastic. I set up a target at 35' and I could get 4" groupings consistently, but not 2" groupings. For comparison I can get 2" groups with my KWA SR7 and my Classic Army EC1 nearly every time at that range. Of course, this is straight out of the box, so it may improve over time. As it is it's not terrible, just not insanely great.

For what it's worth, this is the loudest Airsoft gun I have ever used. You can't hear any motor whine or spring noise, just a loud BAM for every shot.

Build quality is excellent. It's really hefty, nothing rattles, and it just feels incredibly solid. The rail on top is metal, and it holds optics with no wobble. I got a little $25 Amazon red-dot for it and it works fine.

Magazine capacity is small, the midcap it comes with and the extra one I got on Evike both hold 68 rounds (on paper, I think in reality you get ~50 rounds before it becomes too difficult for a speedloader to insert BBs).

I think the downfall with this thing is that it's not a super accurate gun for field play, but its FPS is much too high for CQB. I think with a spring replacement to take it down to 350fps it would be a fantastic CQB gun.

Pic

Wore that mask for 2 games before relegating it to loaner status. OneTigris-style masks are more way more compatible with goggles and allow a cheekweld. Those shooting glasses look like they would be better than goggles, but if they're anything like the pair I used they'll fog like crazy. Your eye-pro not being the best place to save money, I reccommend something ANSI Z87-rated with good ventilation slots around the edges. ESS goggles are a traditional standby for this. I'd reccomend this Aimpoint T1 clone instead of the one you show, as it's more durable, lower profile, can co-witness with M4 iron sights with the right mount, and is less likely to catch BBs. What are you going to carry your magazines in?

I bought a rifle case to travel with. I thought it would offer more protection than the box or a board bag. This is the one I got:
Plano All Weather Tactical Gun Case, 42-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_45jEn9AEXWpbd

It's almost perfectly sized; you need to take out the bottom layer of foam but it still fits and feels well protected.

Regarding cost, I was lucky that bags were included in my ticket cost. However I definitely see how it would suck if you had to pay an extra baggage charge.

> Daily I use the Yosoo (another commenter does too). I like that it's cheap and light so I don't sweat much. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FJUSKYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> The ComfortTac is clearly better quality but feels like wetsuit material and definitely makes me sweat. I don't like the retention strap unless I'm wearing sweats. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DEGYTC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I split the difference and bought complete upper and lower for my first "build." Spike's Tactical complete lower and BCM KMR Alpha 15 complete upper. Added the BCM bolt carrier group, a sexy, red Strike Industries charging handle, and MBUS sights and viola! My first AR. I added an Aimpoint PRO and a Strike Industries sexy red foregrip a few days later. Then a J-comp... Oh, and a few PMAGs... They say an artist never really finishes a work, only abandons it...

But seriously, buy a completed upper and lower and you'll have a very easy time your first time. The upper and lower attach with literally 2 pins. Insanely easy. Once you've put one together that way and held it in your hand and got a feel for it, then you'll start thinking about how you want to change the trigger or what kind of stock you'd like better and then those tasks won't seem as intimidating.

Please note: Those links above are the result of quick Google searches to show the products I'm referring to. They are NOT good prices at least compared to what I spent. I just wanted to make it easier to see what I was referring to but didn't want to go bargain hunting all over again.

Build a complete AR-15 using the stripped lower linked in the OP for $35 plus the following parts:

• Delta Team Tactical Rifle Build Kit (minus BCG, mag, and sights) - $235 shipped (free domestic shipping on orders over $120)
  
  
• BCA 5.56 BCG from Primary Arms - $70
  
  
• Magpul M3 30-rd PMAG from Primary Arms - $10
  
  
• Shipping on the lower, BCG, and mag from PA - $7.50
  
  
• Budget Amazon Red Dot that doesn't seem too shabby - $23 shipped with Prime
  
  Total: $380.50 shipped for an AR15
  
  This isn't gonna be a nice AR by any means and in fact I expect it to come out looking pretty butt ugly, but it is an AR, and I would expect it to go pew if you assemble it correctly. Good luck!
  
  Edit: The barrel in this build kit looks like it is a fluted, heavy, stainless 416R Bear Creek Arsenal barrel that sells for $95 on their website. It is the "better" 416R steel, according to their specs, and it is .223 Wylde with a 1:8" twist, so that combined with the free-floated handguard and you might actually be able to expect pretty decent groups.
  
  

  Final Edit - 5/9/17 10:30 AM EDT
  

  
  Lower receiver marked back up to $45 making this a $390.50 complete AR now. Deal marked NSFW as it no longer reflects the title price.

I wear athletic shorts 95% of the time. I found a super simple belly band that works perfectly with my s&w shield. Carry it every day under my athletic shorts.
Here is the link : Ultimate Belly Band Holster for Concealed Carry | Black | Fits Gun Smith and Wesson Bodyguard, Shield, Glock 19, 42, 43, P238, Ruger LCP, and Similar Sized Guns | For Men and Women | Right Hand Draw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEGYTC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rkiDDb7XNWPZ6

Are you going to intentionally use this rifle to defend yourself? If so, you're looking at about $150 minimum for a RDS (IMO). My personal recommendation is the Vortex Sparc AR or Sparc II. Others like the Holosuns, but I don't have experience with them.

That said, if the worst thing that happens is a range trip cut short, you can grab a Fieldsport RDS and UTG riser from Amazon for about $30.

https://www.amazon.com/Field-Sport-Green-Micro-Sight/dp/B00D4AYBR6/ref=sr_1_6?s=sports-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1494339103&sr=1-6&keywords=Red+dot

https://www.amazon.com/UTG-super-Picatinny-Riser-Mount/dp/B01BI0I9AS/ref=sr_1_15?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1494339182&sr=1-15&keywords=Picatinny+riser

The Fieldsport is the best cheap plinker optic I've used (I bought one to see what the fuss was about). I still wouldn't trust my life to it, but I wouldn't hesitate to throw it on a budget rifle.

To boot, if you'll catch a set of Magpul MBUS on sale for about $60, you can have a surprisingly reasonable setup for around $100. And if the dot ever failed, you'd have a quality set of backup sights to use.

Add: I confused your OP with another and just saw you looking for a scope. My thoughts still stand on the RDS.

The Bushnell Drop Zone gets a fair amount of love. But keep in mind, you'll be spending at least another $30 (preferably more like $60+) on a scope mount.

If you prefer crosshairs to red dots and aren't looking for magnification, Vortex makes a 1x scope meant for muzzleloaders. I'm running one on my 7.62x39 AR and really like it. To boot, you can find them for around $60 and they're every bit as quality as their other Crossfire II optics. You'll still need a mount, though. Aero has their ultralight offsets on sale for around $60. That's the way I'd go for any scope you end up with. The Vortex offset mount I picked up is friggin' heavy.

My fiancée got This when she started carrying her sccy. It works well for her (she's on the small side 5'4 115 lbs wet) in just about any position she put it. She's worn it for a long time (around 10 hours) and never heard a complaint.

BTW good choice in the sccy. We loved hers and actually ended up buying another one. In our experience they've been stellar performers and reliable like more expensive ones on the market.

Battlefoam is nice, but it’s more for large armies. If you only have a small number of models to transport, you’d probably be better off with something like this case.

>Rule of thumb I've heard before is twice the price as what you've paid for the rifle.

OP, this is good advice if you live in the 20th century or have a hundred dollar rifle.

200 bucks will get you a perfectly good 4-12 vortex scope that will do everything OP wants it to do.

Though yeah, like you said, Primary Arms is also a good option for going cheaper. A 4-14 with first focal plane will only run you 230 bucks. Vortex has a killer warranty though.

Probably the best deal is to start with this. just buy the dies and probably a digital scale. Also pick up a lyman reloading manual (49th edition). best for beginners to get you set on your way to properly reloading.

You can make it as cheap or as expensive as you like. The little lee loader kits are handy, and I think they can be had for under $50. It's a slow, rather imprecise way to do it, but it works and it's a good way to get the process down. I ended up getting this Lee kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Challenger/dp/B003ISVWC6/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1450679765&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+press+kit

Space is the real issue though. I know over on /r/reloading there are guys doing it in their closets, but I think a shop or garage with a concrete floor makes life easier.

I got this in a primary arms premium mount and butler caps for around $200 shipped. It's more than good for what you need, and pretty much any similar optic that will be recommended will do you well.

http://www.amazon.com/Bushnell-Illuminated-Reticle-Riflescope-Turrets/dp/B00AU6EIIY

I dub thee: New Palmetto Poly Franken Rifle

• Ptac Mid Length Complete Upper - $310
  
• New Frontier Stripped Polymer Lower - $40
  
• Ptac LPK - $40
  
• 6 position commercial stock kit - $48
  
  Total: $438 plus shipping and transfers where applicable. Boom.
  
  Edit: Free shipping on PSA and Amazon products, Henderson is $11.27 to my ffl on the lower. Total: $449.27 shipped... That's pretty tempting.
  
  2nd Edit: Thanks to /u/Speedkillsvr4rt for the reminder, a budget rear sight. Total comes to $471.68 shipped. We could probably go crazy and add a red dot sight as well but a couple pmags might be a better investment.

I reload 9mm and 5.56, here's my experience:

1. Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit: $120 shipped
   
2. Electronic scale $30
   
3. Reloading trays (2) $5 ea.
   
4. Case de-burrer thingy $25
   
5. Misc Case length trimming widgets $10
   
6. Reloading Manual: I found mine free online in .pdf form, but take your pick.
   
7. Bullet puller $12
   
   Instruction manual Seriously though, this guy is one of the best reloading resources around.

My method is that I just don't hold it. I read using a Tablet stand.

Having said that, there is a type of grip tape you can buy that is designed for firearms. I've heard many stories of people buying that stuff and putting it on the back of their Kindle Oasis 2. The tape comes in sheets that you can cut and place wherever you want.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/GT-5000-Strips-phones-cameras-knives/dp/B00C7WXTJS/

I'd also like to mention that in the rare times when I do hold it in order to read that I find holding it in Landscape view (the thick part with buttons on the bottom) seems more comfortable than any other way of holding it. Plus I like big fonts so this makes the line length acceptable whereas I find it too short when holding it the standard/Portrait view way.

Here's the optic I have on mine.

BSA 3-9X40 Sweet 22 Rifle Scope with Side Parallax Adjustment and Multi-Grain Turret https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AK7KMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XAMizb8TBP441

If you don't want the grain turret they have this one without it for half as much:

BSA Sweet .22 3-9x40mm Duplex reticle Rifle Scope https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NJUPAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PBMizbNFM9BDZ

I've got a cheap quick release mount from UTG. This is my 2nd UTG mount and they're both working fine without any issues. Use threadlock.

UTG 1"/2PCs Med Pro LE Grade Picatinny QD Rings: 22mm Wide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HIHQLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wfCK8KzNC4ePW

If during your accessorizing you find a compatible bipod please let me know. Haven't been able to find one that didn't require drilling into the stock.

This post is a followup to http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/2od9b2/stickon_keyboard_bumps_on_numbers_row_is_there_a/ .

In summary, I need to give certain keys a tactile feel to facilitate positioning of my fingers over the numbers row, and over the [,], brackets (dvorak layout). My previous solution worked but was not very aesthetic.

I purchased this product: http://www.amazon.com/skateboard-chambering-emergency-acquisition-texturing/dp/B00C7WXTJS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421676303&sr=8-1&keywords=gun+tape GT-5000 Gun Tape. I cut small 9mmx11mm pieces and stuck them onto certain keys.

I feel like the final result works very well with the dark blue keycaps of the Leopold FC-750r. And the tactile feel is perfect.

I got this one and am fairly happy with it.

Fort knox

It fits either my p220 or sp-01 perfectly with 4 magazines, or both guns set yin-yang without extra mags.

It performed great. I oiled it a bit before a went so I didn't have any jams or other issues going through 100 rounds.

I zeroed it in at 50 yards. And after I got used to it, my groupings were getting pretty solid.

Model: Adams Arms -16" Carbine

Site: Field Sport Red and Green Micro Dot Sigh w/ a 0.83" riser mount

Here ya go, I use this Plano case with my RPR and LOVE it. Only $66 too. It fits perfectly with the stock folded.

Plano All Weather Tactical Gun Case, 42-Inch (Previous Generation) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.esjDb9GJ5F50

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E2217I6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this and it works great. I like how the hard case offers some protection. I travel with my board by air a few times a month and after carrying it around I think spending a little more for a wheeled case would be totally worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Army-Hard-Wheeled-Case/dp/B01BN627VO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1493491359&sr=8-7&keywords=wheeled+rifle+case

Aimpoint Pros are pretty popular and relatively inexpensive while high quality. The battery life is something on the order of 3-4 years even left on. I'm actually considering selling one to help fund a cross country move.

Little late for tuesday, but i've found some cheap red dots on amazon and i wanted to know if they were worth the purchase or not / which one is better?

http://www.amazon.com/Aim-Sports-Sight-Different-Reticles/dp/B002ZVFF20/

http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Arms-Gear-Tactical-Weaver-Picatinny/dp/B003NFI092/

or should i try for a used sight somewhere?

I have a Fort Knox pistol box. A bit pricey, yes. But it's thick steel and has a great simplex lock for quick access. No key to lose or battery that needs replacing. It has holes on the under side for secure mounting and room for several pistols. I have an apartment and currently only own pistols, so it's perfect if you don't need or can't afford a full-size gun safe.

Yeah I love the ruger 10/22.

Oh....safes.

Yeah, Barska makes a rifle model as well.

Seems like a pretty good deal considering the optic sells for $420 on amazon Here.

So it's like you're paying $480 $580 for a full M4 style AR-15. Doesn't seem to be marked up very much to me.

=( My math is bad as /u/MyFishIsGold pointed out

Have you considered a Pearce grip for the standard magazine? I think they are a great addition. They don't snag on my clothes or add that much to the profile of the gun. What they do add is a much better grip- which also helps manage recoil.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HB1SYCC?pc_redir=1409576638&robot_redir=1

Looks like a Plano 36".

Good case. Foam is okay--turns out better if you use a hot wire cutter and Plastidip afterwards.

Has basic integral locks, but slots for two external ones. I put two of these, keyed alike.

Overall a good case.

Okay, so in my opinion your best bet is to either do what /u/JustARandomCatholic suggests, or to get an FN-15 tactical with the P-Lok rail and get an Aimpoint PRO and either an Inforce WML or a used Surefire 951 off ebay and a Malkoff M61 drop-in LED bulb.

FN-15 Tac II FDE w/P-Lok Rail

Aimpoint PRO

Inforce WML

Little rail section for WML

Lyman 49th edition is great

Nosler 7 is good too

I prefer the Lyman one; it has more data for each cartridge. The nosler manual doesn't have a lot of pistol cartridges listed. Lyman also has data for cast bullets for virtually every cartridge.

Buy this Otis kit. It will clean everything you own. They aren't overkill for anything; they're a great cleaning kit.

Bore snakes are nice for a quick wipe but shouldn't be used for a long time because they collect pieces of what they clean out and can scratch the chamber/bore.

The scope is a BSA sweet .22, I used medium rings but because of that I have a chin weld. I think I could have gotten away with low rings, that way you can have a cheek weld. But its fine with me the way it is, I love it.

> My wife suggested a divided tea box to keep my eyepieces in; I like that idea.

It seems odd, but a four pistol case works great. It has foam you can cut to customize how you like.

I'm a big fan of this optic or this one illuminated.

Simple, effective, usable, does what it is supposed to.

>I'd like it to be zeroed for 5.56

That statement doesn't make sense. Did you mean with a BDC reticle for 5.56? Both of the optics above have those.

Biometric locker super cheap $167,. I have this one for keeping guns away from the kids, there's an optional shelf you can add on also for a 2nd shelf for more ammo /pistol. Not fire proof or power tool/crow bar resistant

Barska Quick Access Biometric Rifle Safe AX11652 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FDIUPE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7LA.zbPS3HMGS

Good muffs, I like mine. Use them for yard work as well as shooting. Picked them up in black, in June of last year for much less though.

https://camelcamelcamel.com/Walkers-Razor-Slim-Electronic-Black/product/B01AAH8CMA

They were under $26 from amazon.

Can anyone recommend a cheap firearm locker that doesn't have egregious QC problems, give you problems getting your carbine out to shoot an intruder, or can be pried open with a simple crobar?

I'm thinking about BARSKA Quick Access Biometric Rifle Safe, but its really bugging me paying $300 for something that doesn't shoot. Small size is oddly desirable, in my circumstances. Any ragingly positive reviews on STACK-ON products?

https://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Diamondback-4-12x40-Dead-Hold/dp/B001EC7KMY

Here you go bud. I like that it goes up to 12 power since you may get longer shots in MT. Vortex offers great value and a killer warranty. I normally get a commission from Amazon, but I'm not supposed to post those links here. Please check out my website when you get a chance.

It's a BSA Sweet 22 Scope with sunshade, awesome scope

https://www.amazon.com/BSA-Sweet-Rifle-Scope-Matte/dp/B000NJUPAS

I'm not trying to be rude here, but with scopes you get what you pay for. Buy once, cry once. Send it back and ask for a refund. Get a scope that works. Vortex is a great company with the best warranty in the business. They have scopes in your price range if you can't throw any more money into your scope.

Look at the crossfire II line (http://www.amazon.com/Crossfire-II-12x40mm-Riflescope-DEAD-HOLD/dp/B00794LINS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1368633509&sr=1-1&keywords=Crossfire+II+4-12x40+AO)

Or Diamondback line (http://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Diamondback-4-12x40-Riflescope/dp/B001EC7KMY/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1368633670&sr=1-3&keywords=DIAMONDBACK++4-12x40+AO)

Well then you're in luck because I'm cheap and the total cost was about $60. the light and sight work incredibly well for the cost.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BZPJRC/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZVFF20/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P7QO2E/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This. Fort Knox has an awesome reputation as well.

I suggest the one that opens from the top, though. http://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-FTK-PB-Pistol-Handgun/dp/B004H6MKI8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372266804&sr=8-1&keywords=fort+knox+pistol+box

Isn't it the $60 one in this list? Because as far as I can see, those are exactly the same as this and this and this and this. I hate to be down on your new toy, but in my honest opinion, even plastic open sights are better than a sub-$100 optic on an AR.

Sorry to break it to you, but there is a lot more competition in the sup $200 micro red dot market.

• TRS-25
  
  
• Hi Lux
  
• Holosun
  
• Primary Arms - Advances
  
• Primary Arms
  
• Vortex SPARC II
  
  They are all more or less excellent. I prefer the Vortex because it has an unbeatable warranty.
  
  

+1 for the Fort Knox. I have the top open pistol box http://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-FTK-PB-Pistol-Handgun/dp/B004H6MKI8 and love it, its worth every penny.

Gun safe's are pretty darn cheap for basic models. Walmart has a 10-rifle safe for $99. It might not stand up to part (d) of the definition, but it's there. Amazon has a biometric rifle safe for $215 (and 2-day shipping) that gets decent reviews. These options aren't perfect, but they're a far sight better than keeping it in a travel bag in the closet, and don't add much burden.

Prove it.

It's never gone below $390 on amazon, pretty good estimation of average price. http://camelcamelcamel.com/Aimpoint-PRO-Patrol-Rifle-Optic/product/B007GDR0I4

I got the 239SAS to be my EDC in warm weather. Its pretty narrow and compact so it conceals well. It does have some weight to it though since its a metal frame. I carry it in either my Bellyband holster or n82 Professional. I've never carried a 2022 so I can't compare there but I do have a 229 Legion I carry which is definitely wider and heavier.

if you're going to buy an optic, first determine if you need one to begin with. Iron sights are perfectly serviceable, though getting a proper cheek weld can be problematic with a paintball mask or an unfitted/untrimmed mesh mask.

spend $20ish and buy something like an aimsports-elcheapo-dot and take the time to zero it.

If you wear glasses, or have an Astigmatism affecting your vision, the dot may appear blurry or 'starburst'. to mitigate this, use the lowest tolerable brightness that you can still quickly acquire. If you still experience starbursting, you need a better quality optic.

I highly recommend looking into the lower end of 'real steel' quality sights such as this Bushnell for $70

to zero, clamp your gun in a vice and shoot at a piece of paper a few times on semi at the range you wish to engage at. use the hex wrench to move the center of the dot over the center of the group of holes, then draw a dot on the paper and shoot for the dot. if you hit the dot or close enough, its zeroed, otherwise, repeat until it is.

Thank you!

I tried this one first: CYA Supply Co. IWB Holster Fits: Smith & Wesson M&P Shield 9MM/.40 S&W - Veteran Owned Company - Made in USA - Inside Waistband Concealed Carry Holster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9BSSW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tswQAbZ9HWMNS

But while it was functional, it was much worse for comfort since it has a hard molded kydex interior shape that makes small point contact with the body. The Alien Gear is certainly more comfortable than that.

I've recently started using this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C7WXTJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1410280058&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40

So far it works great. Good grip, not too thick, no problems with the adhesive. Still waiting to see how long it will hold up before the holster wears it out. But it's cheap.

What I did was just take masking tape and put it over the grip. Then I pressed it flat and traced the area I wanted to grip with a pen. Then I put the masking tape on top of the grip tape and cut it out. Worked very well.

I'm only speaking from a few months experience so I'm sure someone can give you a more complete answer, but I have used This Otis kit and it works fine for cleaning my handguns and my .22 rifle. This video shows you how to use it on a bolt action.

I'm mostly just commenting to tell you that you picked a really nice first rifle.

Here is a suggestion. I don't own it, but I've heard great things and you can't beat the price.

https://smile.amazon.com/Plano-Weather-Tactical-Case-42-Inch/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499881283&sr=8-1&keywords=plano+all+weather+tactical+gun+case+42-inch

I think this might be the same as the one another Redditor mentioned, but I have this one, and it fits/works great.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00E221A88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KDSGDbS50F6ZX

Get you one of these. It is a cheap way to love that easily concealable 7 round mag a lot more.

Amazon.com - Shield 9mm Pearce Magazine Grip Extension

I had been looking at cases for a while (bag style and hard case) but couldn't find anything for a reasonable price. I was about to buy a tackle box and foam and do something similar to OP's until I found this --> http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Protector-Four-Pistol-Case/dp/B000P3WPKK

I bought it at acadamy for $14. It's not heavy duty, but for the price and size it is the best i found for under $30. I can post pic's of mine if anyone wants to see

> post office / federal buildings

Be careful, the parking lot is considered federal land too.

>Seriously people they are like $20 to protect against smash and grabs.

That's probably not going to stop anyone, unfortunately. :/ When I was looking at small quick access lock boxes the best I could find was Fort Knox's pistol box. I know you said smash and grab, so I think anything that box would guard against is probably accomplished just by hiding your gun. IE: Take off that NRA sticker and stop wearing that ask me about my glock t-shirt. :)

What is the best manual to get started with? I'm planning to reload .308 and was about to buy this kit from either amazon or another dealer. Is this a good place to start? (I live in an apartment and am quite pressed for space)

I don't own one, but apparently the Fort Knox ones are amazing. They're pricey and large, but it all depends on your ultimate goal.

• Are you wanting quick access?
  
• Do you just need to deter a child? Or a thief?
  
• How much room do you have?
  
• Where are you planning on placing/mounting it?
  
• What's your budget?
  
  We can give you better recommendations when we know the answers to these questions.

If you think you will ever take more to the range, consider getting something a bit larger than what you currently need.

As GreenTurtle mentioned, the midway bags are popular and decently priced.

I personally got a cheap travel bag from Walmart with roller wheels and a collapsible handle. I keep my handguns and mags in this case:

http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Protector-Four-Pistol-Case/dp/B000P3WPKK

I put that hard case inside the big travel bag's main compartment. My other assorted items are kept in the few pockets, and some in the main compartment outside the hard case. Keeping smaller cases inside 1 large container keeps it highly adaptable, and having roller wheels is good for the days when I bring a LOT of ammo.

My bigger bag is like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Luggage-Pocket-Rolling-Size/dp/B00144TVFG

http://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Luggage-Pocket-Rolling-Duffel/dp/B001TK2XCI

The fort [knox] (https://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-Personal-Pistol-Safe/dp/B0075QMCNK/ref=pd_sim_200_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0075QMCNK&pd_rd_r=Z5TT4C8B28NQ5P2B2BR3&pd_rd_w=TyI32&pd_rd_wg=ghM7u&psc=1&refRID=Z5TT4C8B28NQ5P2B2BR3) pistol boxes are pretty good as far as these go. Bolt them to the floor though!

my scope suggestion would be a BSA sweet .22 scope. For $40 its great. Have one on my 795 and after about 1500 rounds, no issues at all. Mounted with some loc-tite, it hasnt lost zero at all.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NJUPAS/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002A12VLI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=13J1JSBW7XQ03PYDQTJ1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E221A88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's a little big but great to throw in the camper and go http://i.imgur.com/x7AlNDX.jpg

For smaller stuff like marbles and pendants I got one of these at a local sporting good store, I also cut the third not eggshell section they give you to fit a mini tube, torch and accessories I use to take to friends houses. I haven't purchased cases for my bigger pieces yet, but I'm looking at the Seahorse cases they seem like a decent, cheaper alternative to Pelicans, but then again I'm not super sure this is an area I want to skimp out on.

Finger print safe $250 easy to mount to a wall and easy to patch after you move. Won't stop someone with a crowbar.

I like to use the Otis pull through cleaning kit. I normally use hoppes 9 after a range visit and depending on how much I shoot a firearm I occasionally soak it in Wipe out

I pretty much never use a brush any more with this cleaning method, it's easier and quicker I find than scrubbing with a rod.

If I were to guess, this one. $25 seems to be a pretty good deal.

i JUST got into it, as in, I just got my press this week and get the shell holder tuesday.

this

and brass, and bullets both of which are cheaper for your gun than mine.

seriously man, it's really really easy, i think you'll enjoy it, message me if you have any questions, or like the guy below said, go to the FAQ there.

This.


Or a entry vortex either the crossfire 2 or the diamondback would be safe buys until you decide what you like. Then you can anti up for something better.

If you dont have a gun case you should probably buy one if thats what you are talking about.

Id suggest a Plano 42in if your a cheap bastid: http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Weather-Tactical-Case-42-Inch/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462998489&sr=8-1&keywords=plano+42

or a Pelican 1750 if you like your cases with caviar: http://www.amazon.com/PELICAN-1750-000-110-Long-Rifle-Case/dp/B000AOMA1S/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1462998488&sr=1-1&keywords=pelican+1750

The only gun upgrade you should do right now is a sling, grab a romy sling off k-var, and learn how to use it. Slings are awesome.

Something like this for the 700 and this for the '94?

Thanks man.

I hear good things about the BSA Sweet 22 scope. It's fairly inexpensive and is tailored for .22

A reloading manual. Buy one. Read it cover to cover at least twice. Then buy another different manual. Read it twice. Reference both for loading data.

Edit: This is the manual I mainly use. http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-49th-Edition-Reloading-Handbook/dp/B001MYEU0E

I have tons of other sources for data like magazines and what not, but the manual is always the starting point, especially for safety.

I have a vortex diamondback 4-12 for 200 bucks on amazon it's great for that range and center at 50 yards because point of impact(POI) is the same at 50-200 yards, it's not too big or bulky and gets the job done
Vortex Optics Diamondback 4-12x40 Dead-Hold BDC Reticle - 1 Inch Tube (DBK-04-BDC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EC7KMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vE6FzbZDCACDE http://i.imgur.com/09ZDn0K.jpg

I recommend these guys: $23 Walker Pros. Normally $40

I find them more comfortable and block out sound better.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAH8CMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have CYA kydex holsters for all of my CCWs now. Love those holsters. They’re good, durable, comfy, and fairly priced... you can get them for any major gun, I have one for my G19 and one for my Shield

CYA Supply Co. IWB Holster Fits: Smith & Wesson M&P Shield 9MM/.40 S&W - Veteran Owned Company - Made in USA - Inside Waistband Concealed Carry Holster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9BSSW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MBjGAbDBGG696

Not positive if it's the same model but it's 89.99 free shipping with prime on Amazon for the black version. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NC1G0KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gfeaCb01E6HY4 sorry for the long link, on mobile and can't remember how to format.

edit

Older model so so with as you will.

If you really want to be running a copy, then you'll want to get a 14.5" barrel.

Here's the build I would run to copy the above, feel free to make edits to your liking:

• 14.5in Barrel w/FSB, Handguard cap, delta ring - $215
  
• A2 Flash Hider - $9 see response
  
• Crush Washer - $3
  
• Upper Receiver Assembly - $100
  
• Gas tube - $10
  
• Handguard - $64
  
• Rail covers - sides - $35
  
• Rail covers - bottom - $12
  
• Foregrip - $33
  
• Matech BUIS - $90
  
• BCG - $110
  
• Charging Handle - $14
  
• Lower Receiver - $50+transfer fee
  
• LPK - $30
  
• Trigger - $47
  
• Buttstock & Buffer Assembly - $50
  
• Aimpoint PRO - $432
  
• Sling - $50
  
  Total: $1,354
  
  Costs not included: Pin & Weld for flash hider, shipping, any applicable tax, transfer fee for lower.
  
  Average cost found for FN15: $800-1,300
  
  Not included with FN15: Aimpoint, sling, rail covers, Matech (proper) rear sight, foregrip, proper 14.5" barrel (all found in short search were 16in), shipping, transfer fee, any applicable tax
  
  Price configured closer to FN15: $792 (price excluding aimpoint, sling, rail covers, foregrip).

Judging from this, and knowing that the strap is about 1.6 inches high (40mm for standard ski goggle straps); I would confidently wildly guesstimate that the DK2 is about 4.1 inches high.

I wonder if this, this, or this might work as cheap options? Althought they all seem to be cutting it very tight on the depth. I am assuming the DK2 would sit in the case like it would sit on a table (like the first photo above), and not facing upward like they packaged it in the DK1 case, since there are a lot less case options that would fit it that way (without being huge)...

I have one of those ebay metal cases for my photo gear. I'm guessing you would be able to fit two full DK2 kits in it. They look decent and are affordable, but I find mine to be a bit heavy (5.5 pounds empty) and a bit awkward to carry sometimes (if I load it heavy specially). Even though they look decent, there is something about the build quality that feels slightly cheap when you handle it; specially the locking hinges. Nothing terrible in particular, but it just doesn't have that awesome quality feel of expensive cases like an HPRC, a Pelican or a Seahorse would have. But it does get the job done.

We should really know the actual DK2 dimensions (plus the accessories) before choosing a case. The hardest dimensions to accommodate will be the depth, since most small cases are also shallow.

I learned on my own with the book that came with my press. It's pretty straightforward but there's lots of videos out there that can help

https://youtu.be/irC3NuIKDm4

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-9354-Supreme-Master-Kit/dp/B00T9YKW60

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/

Ultimate Belly Band Holster for Concealed Carry | Black | Fits Gun Smith and Wesson Bodyguard, Shield, Glock 19, 42, 43, P238, Ruger LCP, and Similar Sized Guns | For Men and Women | Right Hand Draw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEGYTC6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i.kaAbEJ1ABKR


If you're a big boy like me, make sure you get the XL.

I like my ruger lc9s pro. I prefer it over the double stack Glock I used to use

Here is the holster I use. I chose it because I don’t like wearing belts. I like gym shorts and sweats. It’s so comfortable I almost forget it’s there.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Holster-Concealed-Bodyguard-Similar/dp/B01DEGYTC6/

Looks like the Plano all weather case . I have one and it's really nice.
Edit: fixing the link

I know you asked for non electronic, but I just purchased these and thought they were awesome https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAH8CMA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I only used range ears before (just purchased my first gun last week), so I really am comparing it to shit I know, but they worked great. I would say they reduced the loudness of gunshots by at least 30% compared to the ones I had used before.

Why don't you want electronic?

I've had a case flip out the back of the truck then ran over it. Pretty happy with my purchase.

Plano Molding Company All Weather Tactical Gun Case, 42-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_SIGJwbTCN8RY2

This is the bellyband https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEGYTC6/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_uR6xzbJ84QXGG

What do you normally wear? I'm normally either in flannel or those sheer blouses with a cami underneath. Patterns help break up the shape so that does a lot for me. And the double layers I get from the sheer and cami are enough to effectively hide any printing. I have the hardest time with solid colors so when I have to wear that I gravitate towards darker ones.

There are lots of ways.. safe with a pin code, Biometric safe, or even something like this.

I have these and like them even better:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AAH8CMA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511415323&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=walker+ear+muffs+electronic&dpPl=1&dpID=41hp0VtB4ML&ref=plSrch

Getting ready to purchase this for my own 10/22, it sounds like what you are describing?

http://www.amazon.com/BSA-Sweet-Rifle-Scope-Matte/dp/B000NJUPAS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464334614&sr=8-3&keywords=22+lr+scope

Is this for like plinking?

I have a red dot sight

It works just fine and pretty cheap

https://www.amazon.com/Aimpoint-PRO-Patrol-Rifle-Optic/dp/B007GDR0I4

http://www.primaryarms.com/vortex-strike-eagle-1-6x24mm-rifle-scope-ar-bdc-reticle-se-1624-1

http://www.primaryarms.com/vortex-optics-cantilever-ring-mount-for-30mm-tube-2in-offset-cm-202

Aimpoint PRO's go on sale for around $400 or less. lapolicegear.com had them for $360 shipped a few weeks ago. The Aimpoint is actually cheaper than the Stirke Eagle and the cantilever mount, so it seems like a very fair trade to me.

That Pelican that leftnose linked is a much nicer case, but I picked this one up when it was on sale for $60. It protected my gun well on the few flights its been on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E2217I6/

I also used these locks with it. 3 locks that can all open with the same key.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G7P3A2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a Bushnell 1-4, It works well, It's not a true 1x, more like 1.25ish but still works as an awkward red dot.

The 223 bullet drop reticle works good for 300blk just at diferent ranges depending on super/sub. granted I got mine used for 100$ I'm not complaining.

I got one of the cookie cutter Kydex style ones from Amazon. Works pretty well for me.

Start by reading the FAQ at /r/reloading. Make sure you have a look see at a reloading manual or two as well.

Bare minimum equipment you will need is:

Press

Dies for your caliber

Calipers

Scale

Lube

I started with a Lee Challenger kit which is $116 and has everything you will need, minus a set of calipers for about $25. I also got a digital scale and a tumbler. All in you will be about $200 or so to start pumping out rounds.

$278 shipped to PA. No love for the 1x though.

No dice on Crossfire ii

YES on Diamondback 4-12, $159 shipped
Vortex Optics Diamondback 4-12x40 Second Focal Plane Riflescope - Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (MOA) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EC7KMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_unn.BbZ1SWV4X

http://www.amazon.com/BSA-Sweet-22-Scope-Matte/dp/B000NJUPAS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334928679&sr=8-1

Best scope under $50 you can buy.

These are by far the best cases to carry tanks, and those akward shaped models in.
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-Protector-Four-Pistol-Case/dp/B000P3WPKK

Every once in a while these go on sale and different places. Most of the time people will post it if it does. I think I got one for like $52. Pluck the foam and spray with plastidip and it’s awesome

Plano All Weather Tactical Gun Case, 42-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E2217I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bgfQBbHFT0HDN

Here you go

https://www.amazon.com/Shield-Holster-Veteran-Owned-Company/dp/B01A9BSSW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491768130&sr=8-1&keywords=cya+shield+holster


I love mine. Very Comfy. Can be used either appendix or 3-5 o clock

I have Walker's Razor Slims, love them.

Walkers Game Ear Razor Slim Electronic Muff, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAH8CMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I94QybAEF6M1D