Reddit mentions: The best automotive battery terminals

Other people mentioned the Battery Tender adapter, which is great.

This guy did a great review on some Bonneville upgrades, and the charger set up he did is excellent.

https://ericwais.wordpress.com/2015/06/20/day-21/

I am pretty sure this would mount on a ST just the same. I use this on a 60 mile round trip commute and its great. Good visibility and it keeps everything charged.

Basically get these:

Arkon Case

Tender Adapter

Battery Tender Harness

And a small piece of velco with glue on it to hold the adapter/cord to your bike when not in use.

Do you really commute 200 miles a day? Or is that just a fun trip you have planned?

Yup, the kit included the wrong tool. Those dies are for the right style of terminal (open-barrel), but completely the wrong size -- they're enormous! You could happily crimp 9.5mm terminals onto 4mm2 wire with the big nest there! The smallest one doesn't look like it's anywhere near small enough for 0.64mm terminals you're using.

If you're not opposed to spending a little more, this is the best hand-crimper ever made for open-barrel terminals. It's non-ratcheting, so you don't have to hassle with adjusting the shut height for different wire gauges, just go until your calibrated wrist says the copper stopped moving. It has an enormous range of nest sizes, able to crimp everything from the minuscule "mini-50" terminals found in certain automotive applications, to the gargantuan 9.5mm beasts in power applications and everything in between. It'll do your Dupont wires (and every other 0.64 terminal) up real nice.

(The one thing it doesn't do is short-crimp terminals like JST's. For those you need a narrow jaw like the Engineer PA-series tools.)

Also, check out the best page on the internet about open-barrel crimp tools, terminals, and quality. I couldn't have written it better myself.

I feel you friend. I also went camping but did take one of those car jump all in one batteries along with a 12 volt power adapter for my machine. it had worked the previous camping trip for about three to four days just fine. But this time, it died at 1 a.m. the first night and I was awake the rest of the night. I simply cannot sleep without my cpap at this point. The rest of the trip was a misery, next night slept in the passenger seat of my Prius with the CPAP plugged and car on (on but not running). trying to sleep in a seat sucks, but the car turned itself off every hour so it was hardly any better than that first night. I believe the next night I slept in the bed of a truck with a CPAP plugged in in the truck (again, on but not running) through the little back window and it worked much better. Until it rained.

So the NEXT camping trip I got my shit together.

Get a deep marine battery. These are designed to power small things on a boat and are used to the small dribble of electricity over a long period of time. Get a battery box to place it in for safety, and a battery tender to charge it before the trip. You'll want a ring terminal harness to attach to the battery posts, and a female 12 volt adapter to plug your machine into.

The box contains everything safely with just the plugs you want sticking out the slots in the lid, but if there's small children in the camp you may want to ratchet strap it closed to be on the safe side.

I got battery and box at my local walmart. The rest from Amazon.


Female cigarette adapter:
Battery Tender Black 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_173UCbVCXJH0M

Ring terminal harness:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7-3UCbPET1K8N

Battery tender to charge your battery:

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ak4UCbQYJBZCA

And of course you'll need to get the 12 volt power adapter. Look up the model maker of your CPAP machine and Google away to see where you can find one. I looked for my manual and then I found the one that was recommended in the manual along with recommendations. Mine recommends I do not use the water chamber when using the 12 volt power adapter due to power consumption and no way am I risking the battery running out of power before the trip is over. I got the adapter from a generic CPAP supplies website.

Good luck! I'm going camping this summer I hope my setup still works!

I usually camp out of state with family and have a few nights in a house before heading home. I always bring a new face mask new filter and even a new hose if I have one as after camping the machine reeks of woodsmoke and it drives me absolutely batty.


Edited to fix oh so many typos.

PS: I will edit the links more pretty when I'm on a desktop sorry about the non pretty formatting

You are right about needing in the neighborhood of 50 AH (ResMed battery guide @ https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf if you haven't seen it yet).

The 12 volt scooter batteries are usually 35 AH so that's close but not quite. Two linked together would do it, or look at the 12v 55AH SLA batteries (example https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K8V2LZI). I like the AGM/SLA batteries better than the regular deep cycle because they are sealed (non-spillable) lead acid instead of flooded.

Then just make sure you order the ResMed DC adapter and you should be good to go. It might be nice to have a cigarette adapter with eyelet terminal instead of the alligator clips version that comes with the ResMed DC adapter, here's one for example https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y.

This is a cool little website that helps to design solar systems and battery banks. Since you have 12V batteries and a 12V inverter, you'll need to wire the batteries in parallel, this will add their capacities and keep the voltage the same. When wiring these together it is important to keep the wire length between batteries the same, this is because there is resistance in the wire, so if one battery wire has more resistance than another, then it will draw a bit more power to equal the other battery and over time this can cause issues. This website explains the wiring issues and shows a little diagram of how you should wire your four batteries for your specific case.

So you can use the first website to show how the battery bank should be wired, and use the second website to see how to correctly wire it. Buying wires like this will mean they're already at the same length, but you may only need 8awg or 6awg wire for your purposes (look at wire gage sizing charts). For my two-battery bank I'll be crimping my own connectors onto wire from the hardware store that I cut into equal lengths, usually a cheaper option is to just make your own sets. A forum about a guy asking about battery wiring.

Fusing is also important, you don't want an accidental short happening in your inverter and your 6Kwh battery bank dumping hundreds of amps into it. Again there are many websites offering advice, this one is what I based my fusing off from, I'm only using one solar panel though so I'm only needing one fuse for that. Smaller ones for the solar panels and bigger ones for the batteries and to the inverter I believe the best way is to fuse each battery and then fuse the entire bank as well 5 fuses total). Slow-burn fuses are recommended.

Basically I would say use www.Google.com as a strong resource and post further questions you might have that you can't find the answers to (or can't find simple answers to).

Many battery maintainers use the Battery Tender style of harness, like this item. It's nowhere near 4 or 6 gauge, more like 14 gauge max (higher number = smaller wire).

If you want to use 4 gauge jumper cables that's totally OK, bigger is better. But your battery maintainer probably doesn't put out more than 1 - 2 A, maximum which is safely and easily handled by that Battery Tender harness.

Probably becuase there's so much exposed wire. Those terminals and wires should be upgraded like yesterday. Not trying to sound like a dick, but the charging system is one of the most important parts of any vehicle and it needs good tight connections. And a small amount of dielectric grease wouldnt hurt

Get a system like this. Or if you can just buy the terminals and get the crimp rings elsewhere, either way it's a worthwhile upgrade and much cleaner

It depends on the gauge wire you are talking about for I assume your inverter. I type locally run 2/0, so some of these blocks are not designed for that size cable.

Here is a example of a single post that you can crimp lugs to the cable. Put the three wires from the coach on the lug and the new wire from the battery to the post. When you put that many cables on the post you may run into spacing issues so you may need a washer or bolt to evenly stack the lugs.

Here is a example of a four post block. Simple and easy to install.

Finally if you don’t have lugs and want something easy a compact distribution block may help you.

I am not in your area so I can recommend anyone local. Most chain auto parts and home improvement stores don’t carry these types of items in-stock if at all. I send some Amazon links which may help you.

Sure.

• Inverter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NOUBA/
  
  
• 2 x 75Ah batteries - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZMVI46/
  
  
• Double battery box - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJ2MBRD/
  
  
• 200amp ANL fuse & fuse holder - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079ZNGCDX/
  
  
• Wiring - 1 pair of 4AWG 1ft & 1 pair of 4AWG 3ft - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071H7D7SM/
  
  
• platform stool to keep equipment safely off the ground - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KDDS51/
  
  Should be about $750 for lots of runtime, and compatible with any pump that uses 120VAC. The only open question I have is whether the eyeletts on the battery terminals are 3/8" or 5/16" so I know which wiring set to buy. I emailed the company and waiting for a response.
  
  I used this guide to figure out what I wanted to do - https://www.tripplite.com/support/how-to-select-and-install-inverter-charger-for-sump-pump
  
  EDIT: wow thanks for the gold, kind Internet stranger!

It's kinda like trying to weigh a letter for postage with a scale set up on a trampoline full of kids. It's bouncing up and down, so it looks like the letter weight is going up and down because it doesn't have a stable reference point because it's getting noise from the power line.

Laptop, you'd have to find a DC adapter for that model of laptop. Dell used to make some, not sure about other brands. They are kinda pricey considering you already have the inverter.

For phones, there are a couple different charge technologies, but they are all USB (sort of). Normal 5v USB is limited to 0.5 amps, so it charges slow. There is a higher power 5v USB, which is I believe 1.1 amps, and then there are USB charging adapters that put out somewhere around 2 amps. 2 amps is about the limit for the cable, so to charge faster than that they have what are called 'quick charge' adapters, which operate at voltage higher than 5v, either 9 or 12v depending on the device being charged.

Most of them are wall adapters, so I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'mains charging [was] faster'. But, they do make [DC quick chargers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OSX8UC?psc=1&smid=A142BGUZC6UH73) that will charge just as fast as the wall. It will also be more efficient than firing up a 1kw inverter to step it up to mains voltage to run a 30ish watt switching power supply that converts it back down to 5/9/12v. I'm not recommending that specific model; it seems to have good reveiws but I've never used that specific one.

Just make sure your phone supports quick charge, and know that there is quick charge, qc2.0 and qc3.0. They should be backwards compatible (it would charge at the highest voltage that both support), but I'm not 100% certain on that. You'd also need some way to connect that to the battery, something like this.

For the wire to the starter you just need to buy another cable. There are terminals available that can accept multiple wires such as this one. You'll need to make sure to find one that accepts the stock wire gauge.

I suppose if your stock one is already set up like that then you could splice it together. Just be careful to do a good splice, because that wire is carrying a lot of current.

My battery and terminals just looked like that and cleaned it up last weekend.

Take the battery off and use hot water to clean most of the battery up.

Used hot water on my terminals as well.

After that i used a hot water/baking soda mix to neutralize the acid.

Bought a few things off amazon as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W147C-Terminal-Cleaning/dp/B004BTV82U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520547692&sr=8-3&keywords=battery+terminal+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520547711&sr=1-4&keywords=dielectric+grease

The dielectric grease should help it from getting moisture and corrosion on it again.

when you buy a battery tender it will come with a lead for connecting to the battery, as well as a lead that has battery clamps/clips on it for temporary charging.

this "lead" has two wires on one end and a fitting like the USB adapter in /u/afeagle1021's post (except it is the MIRROR IMAGE of that fitting). The two wires will go on your battery terminals (aka posts) via loops installed on their ends that go around the battery terminal screws, where you bike's electrical system makes it's contact with the battery.

there is an indicator for polarity on at least one of the wires, make sure it is attached to the corresponding battery terminal. then you plug your bike into the tender overnight and plug the usb adapter in when you need to power your phone when you are riding.

you might need to get creative about how you run your usb cable if you want it secured and out of the way.

Link to lead sold without tender

Link to Battery Tender Jr.

Oh wow thanks for the detailed explanation!! I have one of those basic ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NCOKZQ&pd_rd_r=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E&pd_rd_w=eRr1U&pd_rd_wg=vLNJB&psc=1&refRID=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E

Have you ever tried them?

I've been very happy with the Battery Tender brand. I have a friend who uses this on his boat (it's designed not to overchage).

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416250584&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+solar

We use a traditional (plug in) tender on my wife's car. A fairly common setup is to permanently connect the terminals to the battery and then run the leads somewhere more convenient, like out the grill or fender. It makes connecting/disconnecting a lot more convenient.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_z

Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.

I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.

• Is a fuse tap required if there is a vacant fuse slot in the fuse box?
  
• How can I identify the correct fuse slot/amperage that I need for the dashcam (or any accessory for that matter)?
  
• Is it worth purchasing a pry tool set for running the wires?
  
• Assuming I use an "always on" fuse slot (so I'm able to use parking mode on the dashcam), is there concern that it could drain the battery?
  
• If so, are there in-line protective devices that would prevent this, or is this an altogether incredibly unlikely event? (something like this?)
  
  Shopping List:
  
  
• Fuse tap
  
  
• 12v Socket Plug
  
  
• Anker 2port USB car charger
  
  
• 15ft micro USB to USB cable

I wouldn't make the cables any smaller, I'd try to find a terminal style that fits the cable. Copper wire is very expensive and new terminals are like $5 and easy to change.

With regards to stacking, I don't like doing that. I prefer to crimp a lug to the end of the cable and attach those to the terminals, similar to this: (https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=battery+terminals&qid=1558971029&s=gateway&sr=8-4)

You can also find terminals that accept multiple cables if you just want to poke them in and crimp them down.

At the end of the day, don't overthink it. You want a good connection between the battery post, the terminal, and the cable. There are a few ways to make this happen, and if you get it wrong, the car won't start :D

Good luck!

On any vehicle I buy I replace those immediately. Get some 6 gauge ring terminals off amazon (negative is 5/16 and positive is 3/8 ring diameter), a pair of military terminals and some 3/4” heat shrink (harbor freight is dirt cheap). Cut the old ones, peel back the insulation and crimp the lugs. Amazing how much better they run without the corrosion and a solid connection.

I think they have a 25 pack of ring terminals for $10ish bucks. Can use a 3/8” ring on both of you want to. Out the door for $20 and have room for accessories to be added later.

Links:

Ring Terminal

Military Terminal

You should get a solar charge controller inbetween the battery and panel, and it sounds like clips are sub optimal and you're looking for a more permanent install. Something like
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KS6BLY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xgn5yb7V3DPTY (any brand) but the inline fuse is a nice thing and imo necessary.

Its a standard connection you'll find on solar regulator thingys and panels made for cars. Can also buy an extension, and wire it into the cabin without much trouble if you have an accessible hole from engine to cabin.

What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.

Edit: fix link

Normal, in my experience it happens. Try using these https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Anti-Corrosion-Washers-Black/dp/B01155YKF4. Make sure you dont just use water to clean it. They make battery cleaner that neutralizes the acid and helps seal the post. Or I just make a paste with baking soda and scrub it down and put one washer when I buy a car.

My 2010 Bmw has about a billion electric things in it and I store it all winter (December to April) and the battery is fine. You should be good to go. May want to invest in a quick disconnect from amazon for like $5 for next time

CARTMAN Swan Style Quick Disconnect Battery Terminal 2-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C22QL6D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GgskDbF80Y1ZF

Maybe a bit of a deviation from the root of the problem, but if you find yourself on Amazon, I highly recommend getting one of these. Unlike a pocket tester, it's built like a tank. You can roll it up and squish it in the bottom of a backpack or pocket, crush it your tail storage or leave it under your seat permanently hooked up to your battery. It's build quality and the simplicity of it's design just exudes ruggedness and reliability.

Of course an RFID transponder alarm system or battery tester will give you a more (sometimes unnecessary) accurate reading. But all I know is, every time I've glanced under my seat and seen that LED flashing between 0%-100%, I've never regretted spending that $8.95. Eh, if not you, maybe this recommendation will help someone.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CXSPB2X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zlBOBbV0VWJ1B

I purchased these hoping to be able to snip corroded wire out and strip it enough on the original harness and call it good. If not I have all new wires and terminals ordered to upgrade the big 3 cables

Get these Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kZ.tzb78XRSC3

Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger will charge and maintain your battery so that it is ready to go when you are! It's lightweight, fully automatic and easy to use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y4.tzbARX0FQZ

They also sell them as a package at most battery stores. I can't tell by the description if the tender includes the adapter as well.

Every time you get home plug it in and leave it plugged in.

I've had this for over a year and it works great

If you buy a battery tender it comes with one of these that the usb thingy hooks right up to. I just have it hanging out the side of my bike and I can easily tuck it up under the fairings.

As echoed elsewhere... No.

To fix this, get the correct ring terminals, and crimp them on. If you don't have the crimper, use crimp/solder terminals and solder them using a torch.

Then replace that positive battery terminal with an aftermarket that will accept all of the wires appropriately, or use a military style terminal and appropriate size ring terminals.

You can get everything you need to fix this at NAPA.

If anything I've said here has confused you, please enlist the help of someone more familiar with automotive electronics.

Get something like this from your local auto parts store, or even Wal-Mart. I had a car that had corrosion issues on the battery terminals and after cleaning with a wire brush, baking soda and water (as others have stated) I put these on and they never corroded again. Cheap investment, worked perfectly.

A ring terminal harness is this product from battery tender. You can use it with battery maintainer as well as charging accessories like heated gear or a power outlet.

I don't know what conference call is, I'm assuming it's having more than 2 people daisy chained into a conversation. My riding buddies use it but I never have. Only thing I use it for is music and the occasional phone call.

My gloves are completely waterproof as I'm sure many on the market are. I wouldn't worry about a little rain unless it is a downpour where you will be riding all day.

Not hard. Do you want the super easy and lazy way?

Get a battery tender quick disconnect and then get the usb port that plugs directly into it.

Quick disconnect: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

USB port: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DJ5KEF4&pd_rd_r=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0&pd_rd_w=ANaFZ&pd_rd_wg=QpvAv&psc=1&refRID=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0

Here's an imgur album with some photos now. I'm uploading other ones right now, and they should be added to the album later today.

The resistors are all family members of this guy. They're 1000W resistors, and can handle 10,000W for 5 seconds. The bottom three are .25 ohm, 4th one is .5 ohm, and the top one is the 1 ohm I linked to. I used these knife switches, but I didn't use the whole thing. My original plan was to use the leads provided on the switch, but I realized once I was holding one in my hand I could unscrew the brass contacts and just bolt those directly to the aluminum rail. Each knife switch can handle 250A continuous, and 750A intermittent. The aluminum rails are just 1"x.5" 6061 bars I ordered from McMasterCarr. It's all mounted on 3/4" plywood with counter bored 1/4-20 carriage bolts.

You can buy a 12v fan that runs off of a cigarette charger in a car. Then you can buy a $100 deep cycle marine battery and run the fan for almost two weeks. You can also use the battery to charge your phone. All in, for less than $150, you can charge your phone and have a fan for over a week without power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SS62PS/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLX78/

Use this terminal on the battery. It replaces the original battery bolt and adds an extra terminal to connect to.

Stinger SPT55308 PRO Series Classic Short GM Battery Post Shoc-Krome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F6P98Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vVtQDb64G9SK1

Then Crimp or solder proper sized ring terminal on the cable shown in your hand. Bolt it on the end of the battery terminal.

There's also a longer version part number spt55309 if needed.

In terms of having something to charge a battery without taking the seat/unscrew everything, you could get him something like what you've linked but I would opt for a SAE connection cable. SAE connections are much more common for accessories (like chargers or USB connectors) than the BMW cigarette style.

This is what I have on my bike for battery tenders and separate USB plugs

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498076141&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+cable - $6

You could easily get him this in addition to whatever else.

edit - fixed link

I have something like this up front: https://www.amazon.com/Goodway-Universal-Motorcycle-Waterproof-Rotation/dp/B07BRR9RPM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1550853589&sr=8-13&keywords=motorcycle+phone+mount

The cable runs under the tank all the way back under the rear seat. I cut off the ring terminals and attached this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Tender-SAE-DC-Power-Automotive-DIY-Connector-Cables-2x0-75mm-30cm-300mm/142428764913?epid=1238902560&hash=item21296a7af1:g:j6sAAOSwWxNYyOzV:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

I also have the standard battery ring terminal that comes with the battery tender running from the battery all the way back under the rear seat as well. Basically this from the battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550854062&sr=8-6&keywords=sae+connector

The end result is you have 2 SAE connectors under the seat. One that runs to the battery and one that runs to the USB charger.

If you want to use the the charger you linked and if you already have a cable that is long enough, you can run the cable from the battery to the rear, then loop it around and run it to the front. Under the seat simply cut the red cable and just put any switch of your liking in-line: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xtoggle+.TRS0&_nkw=toggle+switch&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=293&_odkw=switch&LH_TitleDesc=0

Let me know if you want more pictures of my setup. I can snap some up (currently the bike has fairings/seat off since I am getting it re-padded).

Links to some of the things I purchased and am happy with:

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station


Hakko FX-901/P Cordless Soldering Iron

NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal

Carviya 12V 24V Heavy Duty 16 AWG 15A 20A Male Plug Cigarette Lighter Adapter

/u/SirDigbyChknCasear is right, the Escort 8500 uses 12V according to the manual.

OP, I would get something like this 12V socket, figure out where the radar detector's power cord meets the vehicle's harness (presumably somewhere behind the dash), and splice this in there. Do it properly - either using solder and heat shrink or using appropriately-sized butt connectors. Don't just twist the wires together and slap on some electrical tape. From there, you can plug in the dash cam's power adapter and run its cable separately while still maintaining a fairly clean look. Depending on how the radar detector is turned on and off, you may want to add a switch somewhere.

If the dash cam has a power adapter that isn't just a standard "cigarette lighter" plug, then you can probably wire it in without the 12V socket adapter. I can't help more without more info.

Clean it up good then you can use anti-corrosion washers or [anti-corrosion spray](https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80370-Battery-Protector-Aerosol/dp/B000BOKML2/ref=sr_1_2? s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496404545&sr=1-2&keywords=anti+corrosion+spray) or just coat them in a heavy grease after you retighten.

The corrosion is caused by the dissimilar metals and perhaps a bit by the hydrogen gas generated when charging the battery.

Do not cut into or splice off of your wire harness. Get a battery tender pigtail that connects directly to your battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_-1cAzb8YDMYBC). Then use a 'Battery Tender SAE to USB adapter to plug a USB cable into (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_r3cAzbN5DASR2). This was you can charge you bike when parked for a while and have the freedom to run the USB cable to your bars for your ram mount or into your bags to charge extra gear.

Yes you can. To make it easier by negating the need to pull off the seat or panels to get to the battery, get yourself one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1/185-9216454-3055567?ie=UTF8&qid=1449857423&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+pigtail

I recommend this if you're gonna leave it plugged in, easier than taking off the seat!

Install one of these as well as one of these and you're good to go. That is the setup I have running to my handlebars for my phone while riding. I also installed a switch so I can stop it from pulling power when parked or raining or whatever, you can see the switch glowing red under my seat.

Well the battery is brand new now so it doesn't have any corrosion on it yet! I do need to do a better job on the terminal though. Do those little anti corrosion washers actually do anything?

18Ah means that it would discharge or charge 18 amps for an hour, or 1 amps for 18 hours. So doing 18Ah/1,1 amp = 13,36 hours.

That being said, the recommended minimum charging current for AGMs is about 15%-25% the capacity. So 18Ah*0,15=2,7 Amps to 4,5 Amps. For that reason, I wouldn't recommend using the 1.1 amp one for that kind of capacity.

Finally for the connectors, I'd buy this cord, cut the eyelet connectors and crimp some 16 AWG piggy-back F2 connectors instead. That way, you'll be able to plug in both the charger and your fish finder at the same time while having the Noco quick disconnect.

I'd keep the wire coming with the charger intact in case I need it to charge some other battery. The clamps are quite useful especially with the quick disconnect thing. It will keep its last setting until you change it again so don't forget to change the mode if you want to charge a car battery, you would overcharge it on the AGM setting. Just select what job you want it to do before plugging in the battery.

I got a 40ah AGM for $140 at Interstate battery not too long ago and it worked perfectly on my last tent camping trip. Got 4 nights of out it without power. No humidifier and heated tube of course. See if there is a dealer local to you. I've seen cheaper AGMs also but this is an investment if you go camping often The dealer also will charge my AGM for free every 6 mo. Get a volt meter to take charge measurements. Grab a cigarette lighter plug hardwire kit that can handle the amps you need and hardwire it to the terminals. The clamps that came with my kit are almost worthless.

OP needs to go to an auto parts store and pick up a side mount adapter like this. It looks like that spade was wedged in previously.

>I trust these guys a lot

And here you are.

-Lower ball joints seeping grease: They can do that for a while. Your shop doesn't seem to want to replace them though, so.

-Leaking pan gasket: You can afford to have a lot of oil leaking for $350. Are you leaking enough to have to add oil because of the leak between oil changes? No? Then unless you are a Rockefeller (or are damaging the surfaces you park it on) I'd leave it alone.


-Struts and mounts--Because they are 'weak' and the boots are torn. Don't care about the 'torn', but weak? Maybe. Does it drive and handle ok? Are your tires wearing funny?

-Alignment: Yeah, if you do the struts, you might want to align it.

-Battery service: For $50, you can probably disconnect the battery, clean the terminals yourself. Oh, don't forget the corrosion protectors

That one is kind of weird. It looks like you need to install that whole thing and then pull the power cord out of the car and plug it into a wall? That is weird.

I would use this instead. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481806706&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender

It's a smart charger, from a USA company made in USA, and when you don't need it you put it away. I have three of them. One for my classic car, and one for each of my motorcycles.

Add in this https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S7TZQJ2BZZ3NWG4KS2KV

You connect this part to the battery terminals and leave them there. When you want to plug it in, you just connect the cords from the tender to this. Plug and play. I also use this on my motorcycles. My car I just use the standard connection clamps that come with the tender.

Cheap, USA made, and works. Read the reviews.

I have a charge controller, but the door is directly attached to the battery terminals. As for the camera, I used the advice from this group and bought a car charger with USB ports plugged into this:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y

I had to strip the wires and crimp different terminals on them since they didn’t fit on the battery bolt.

I am only aware on one user claiming there was an error and that user correlated that to his recent install of a hardwired blackvue. No real science there and highly speculative.

The way I hardwired into the 12v was simple. I bought this: NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

and installed on the battery terminal. It has an in line 10amp fuse and tucks away neatly under the hood. Then I ran the blackvue power cable into the car through the firewall where Tesla provides a very nice rubber plug to do so. Everything took about an hour to do (and I did it twice after doing it the first time without a fuse and it worked fine - just wanted to be extra safe)

Wait, so you want to get a C or D cell battery pack + transformer to plug a standard AC lamp into it?

That's infinitely the wrong way of doing it. The batteries won't provide nearly the life you want, a transformer would suck down power like there's no tomorrow (making the battery life even worse), and it'll be far more expensive than it has to be.

12v DC is common (boats, trailers, RVs, solar-powered systems, ect) and doesn't require a transformer to run. There's tons of batteries and appliances that run 12v and they aren't much different in price than AC appliances.

At a minimum, you'd need a 12v battery (typically lead-acid like a deep cycle, marine, or even just a regular car battery), a battery lead w/socket and a 12v desk lamp

Be sure to secure the battery, though, you don't want the tots to short circuit it.

You'll eventually need to pick up a 12v battery charger, but those things are pretty cheap, and a single charge should last a long, long time if you're only running a low power lamp off it.

Yep. All of you were right. Battery was toast. Replaced today and spliced in new terminals. Started right up.

Fastronix Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X36RILW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QDp0Cb43K2W1C

Something like this?

The batteries are not secure in all directions. They should be.

There's nothing protecting the battery terminals.

In your 2nd picture, what's going on with that stray wire? Is that a random RCA?

Tons of exposed strands at power connection points at amps. Makes no sense. That place has heat shrink with shop logo printed on it. Use it.

Wire nuts. No.

Your batteries are wired incorrectly. Positive should be connected to battery 1 then connected in parallel to battery 2. The positive jumper should be red. Not sure why they used black. The ground should be connected to battery 2 then paralleled to battery 1. Like so. Some new terminals like these would be cheap and clean up your wiring.

Cable management isn't the greatest.

Battery terminal protector instead. I've had the same can for about 8 years. It has lasted many a car.
Clean the terminals and clamps with a wire brush, spray a coat of the protector on everything and add some fiber washers. I've never had terminal corrosion issues.

Nah op, just buy a deep cycle battery and isolator relay to charge it off your engine. Then you can silently charge things at night etc.

Also buy
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wa9EybWJA9XPG

And any usb cigarette adapter for charging your devices off the battery.

As it sounds like you will be in cold weather here is a bonus. It seems pricey but is so effective. Temperature settings and everything.

DC12V Electric VACUUM INSULATED kettle boil cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4OYITE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ac9EybYMT5M1F

Try getting a battery terminal brush and scrub the daylights out of the bolts and posts and everything, then reassemble. Get everything really tight. See if that helps

I do have a shore power charger that has an in-line battery meter. I'm not sure how accurate it is though. The battery sat for 3 months, after being fully charged, in the unheated trailer in 5-15F temps. When I finally got there to connect the charger, the battery meter still read 100%. It is a brand new deep cycle battery meant for solar, but I didn't it expect to hold 100% charge all winter like that.

EDIT: The "battery monitor" I have is an in-line one on the NOCO Genius GC015 terminal connector.

Sounds like the tender harness that I've got with the in line fuse https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ for a tender.

Something like this guy right here

Battery, case, socket, splitter, charger

While it costs more than the orion/celestron ones, the battery is of much higher quality, it's more than twice the capacity, easily replaceable parts etc.

All of the KT-8900Ds that I have looked at have a cigarette lighter adapter. You can buy an adapter to go between the battery and radio like this. Otherwise a bit of cut and splice may be in order. As long as you have an appropriately rated fuse, you can wire straight to the battery.

A battery tender will lengthen the life of your battery as well. Install some permanent leads so its easy to hook up and leave it on the tender whenever its parked at home.

I built this setup recently:
https://old.reddit.com/r/bonnaroo/comments/bfy56y/mini_solar_rig/

1. $80: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRN8Q9V
   
   
2. $139: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNQH9R1
   
   
3. $99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G7SCMVI
   
   
4. $7: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y
   
   
5. $11: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746BM8ZR
   
   
6. $32: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WITWKNG
   
   A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.
   
   The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.

Endless Breeze Stand alone Fan

https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472756020&sr=1-1&keywords=endless+breeze+12+volt+fan
55 ah battery
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Exell-12V-55Ah-SLA-Battery-Rechargeable-AGM-replaces-UB12550-45825/186361686
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V Male to Male Outlet Charger Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTOSTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Window Vent Visors for ventilation....

I choose to keep the battery part separate. If that's what you want, here's what I got.

Battery Tender 081-0069-8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Battery Tender 081-0069-6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

i trickle charge and my battery stays in the bike. you need this. as far as getting a screwdriver in there, just use a ratchet with a screwdriver bit.

I must apologise I didn't think the whole cigarette lighter battery charger thing through, as it turns out this will just blow your cigarette lighter fuse, since it may be possible that the deep cycle battery would draw to much current and since cars don't limit the current that goes through your cigLight socket ( as I originally thought). You can still charge your battery through your cigarette lighter but you will have to use this thing instead and maybe this connected to the battery to be able to charge it.


So I really don't have any links to all this since this is how we used to do it with our family outings (minus the charging the battery through the cig lighter port). At this point I'm maybe confusing you and would recommend to buy Yeti Goal Zero, since I don't feel comfortable giving advice on something that I haven't personaly tried, (charge the battery through the cig lighter thingy).

I'm not quite sure. I have thought about cutting the corroded terminal and attaching a new terminal but it looks like I am cutting right where the two cables combine and would not have enough wire for the terminal. I could probably try it though because I guess I have no other options with the cables current state. It looks like it may have been cut before by the previous owner(s).

If I did cut the cables and separated them I have thought about trying something like this but I think it requires crimping.

I wouldn't cut the end off the fridge, I'd think just use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R97VAZJ3VP025AT786SY

This: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QM94FQD1ZYPEYY78R4KZ

plus this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4

The first one has a number of accessories you can connect from a battery charger to heated clothing. The second is a usb adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Charger-Samsung-Qualcomm-Certified/dp/B01E764DXM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524747899&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+car+charger&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524747960&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+female+socket

You can use one of these https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC017-Socket-Battery-Clamp/dp/B00G8WLX78 and any old car usb charger. (Can find a cheaper and simpler at Walmart or auto parts store) with a regular old 12 volt car/motorbike battery.

Ask your dealer if they installed one (they're not factory equipped); if they didn't , you can get one from Amazon for less than $6

Most people can manage to install the battery tender pigtails on their own.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487631371&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+tender+usb

This so what I have: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539529909&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=battery+tender&dpPl=1&dpID=41GJoSjcVrL&ref=plSrch

Paired with this pigtail lead which sits in my glovebox: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

First:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CO2myb008ZQVE

Then connect:

Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RP2mybAQ3ZYY3

Then you just connect and route a standard USB to mini USB.

https://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-BAF-B1-Terminal-Cleaning-Brush/dp/B0060YHP62/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502441119&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+terminal+brush+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1502911662&sr=1-7&keywords=battery+tender

I added one of these to my bike.

I then plug in one of these to charge my phone.

I much prefer the modular setup as I can plug in other accessories to the same port, such as my tire inflator. However one of the direct to battery usb chargers may be cheaper.

The red post? https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Stainless-Single-Ground-Junction/dp/B01LLZF7DW

Battery tender junior.

Tuck a quick connector harness under the seat and you'll be golden.

This and the clamps come with the Battery Tender I bought. I have the connector on at all time and tucked under the pillion seat. You can also get cig and usb connector for it too.

This is the correct answer, OP. Get one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748GKHZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115896&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=80w+folding+solar&dpPl=1&dpID=51GlBo5rIvL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K8E0WAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115963&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=35ah+battery+deep+cycle&dpPl=1&dpID=51TNL6zn1RL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115996&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v%2Bbattery%2Bsocket&dpPl=1&dpID=511ZvmcpmsL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

I thought of getting the yeti 150. But went with this instead due to 2-3x capacity, and cost. The only thing i didn't get was an inverter, which i don't need

Any bike you want.

I have mine hard-wired to the fuse box (on only when ignition) - I did not use a kit, rather used a piggy back fuse thingy and this for pluggin it in (cut the red-end to attach it to the tap-fuse end).

It is more stable/better quality than the kits... and has an inline fuse for added protection.

I use one on my bikes. I've seen my battery get low if I'm running a lot of lights or use my E-start a few times on a short trip. It definitely extends the life of a battery.

If you get one buy one of these too:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_45gNzb60665XK

It's a harness that you attach to your battery, and you can put the quick connector somewhere so you don't always have to remove your seat. On my dirt bikes, I put them behind my air box door next to the air box, so I can access it within seconds.

Battery Tender makes a quick disconnect plug. I have one on my bike that I use to connect the tender. You screw it onto the battery terminals. I also have a USB plug that I can connect to it and charge phones, cameras, whatever.

You start with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/

Then your second battery has a socket to plug in things. Use the double headed cable to connect your battery to the vehicle cigarette lighter.

The vehicle cigarette lighter wire is small, too much resistance, not a good way to charge.

man... this really sounds like a battery issue.

before you lose your hair and junk your jeep, go to a boat shop and look for some Zinc No Corrosion battery lugs and some crimp on ring ends. Get some dielectric grease or Noalox to fill those ring ends too. Cut the stock lead shit off. Clean your battery terminals WELL with a wire brush or a battery terminal cleaner. fill a ring with DG or Noalox, and crimp. assemble. From the same boat store, they ought to have some battery terminal protector spray too - it's red sticky, and oily too. that'll keep the water from corroding your terminals.

Parts:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-TZKIT2-Lead-Free-Battery-Terminal/dp/B00DNU3MNG or
https://www.amazon.com/Military-Spec-Battery-Terminal-Post/dp/B00X36RILW/

https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-30-030-Anti-Oxidant-Compound-Squeeze/dp/B000LDE7V4

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Marine-Battery-Terminal-Protector/dp/B0000AZ9J4

Sorry bro, on the other coast... WA state.

I added a [pigtail] (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465948574&sr=1-5&keywords=pigtail+sae) and got one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465947776&sr=1-4&keywords=sae+adaptor) to get USB charging capability.

Thanks to this thread, just put this on my bike:

USB Connector

Tender receiver

Have my phone in a case on my bars to run as a speedo/map/GPS tracker. No more limited distance.

No, they haven't. I don't think. Not the original owner. Don't get me wrong, there is space, but not a whole lot. I might be able to pull it off. What posts would you say? I was looking at these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QRTZR0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3SY7P2NFH5KUX

You could also get a 12v socket - http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ for instance - tap it off your existing 12v socket fuse with an add-a-fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ - and hide it all in the dash somewhere. That way you have no permanent mods.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

Here's a pic OP if you want to compare. Yeah, I doubt that's killing the juice to your bike.

I'm not an electrictian, so please make sure you design your system safely. Below is how I chose to do it, but it's by no means the only way and each vehicle and system has different requirements.

The way I ran it was through a hole in the firewall to my house battery box (which is behind my drivers seat). The cable runs from the van battery with a larger terminal connector immediately to an 80amp circuit breaker next to the battery to protect against any shorting, then through the firewall, under the carpet next to the drivers door, under the driver's seat, into my battery cabinet where I connected it to a Stinger 80amp isolator, then from the stinger to the battery system. I'm running 2 6V lead acid golf cart batteries.

My old man did a similar run to charge his Lithiums while driving, but he has 2 100ah battle born LiFePO4 batteries and his 2018 promaster can handle charging them. I don't know which alternator he is running though so again your mileage may very based on what the batteries can suck down, guy have burnt up alternators before trying to charge deeply depleted lithium batteries without a B2B charger.

I took my first bike (2001 ninja 250) from NC to seattle, coast to coast, 2 months after I got it. Long trips are great as long as you prepare for them.

1 - Maintenance. If there are any intervals that will happen during or soon after your trip, do them before you leave.

2 - Get roadside assistance or something similar. At least have the number for a tow truck.

3 - Make sure you can charge your phone/other stuff. Basic hookup involves something like this, or a battery tender cable with an adapter. I did the second one, with the quick disconnect between my seat (where the cable comes out from the battery) and my tank bag, where all the wires are.

Getting to the actual riding part...

1 - Wind isn't as much of a problem as you might think. It can suck, but if you stay relaxed it'll be just fine. Remember, the bike will always want to stay up, so just let it do its thing. (your bike weighs ~650lbs, it's not going to be too badly affected anyway)

2 - Take breaks! At least once an hour, pull over for 30 seconds or so and get off the bike. Walk around it, drink some water. Fatigue has a nasty habit of creeping up on you without you realizing it.

3 - Stay hydrated and fed, and keep a bottle of water with you.


That's all I have for right now, I'll edit later if I think of something else

edit: get some earbuds or a big old speaker if you're against headphones while riding. Hours upon hours of road without a radio or anything gets boring insanely fast.

Longsleeve was essential, since I'm usually out during the day when it's hot as hell, crazy how cold even 50mph winds can get at night.

As for sunblock, started to realize 30-60 minutes with the sun beaming on me probably wasn't the best to go unprotected. Also an extra pair of ear plugs


My bike already came with this installed, which apparently can be used if you have gear that has electric warming features

Then I got this which is basically a USB adapter, use it to charge my phone or GPS etc