(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best parts

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

>Running errands: Right now, I take my bike to the grocery store 60% of the time. But an average bike right off the sales floor isn’t equipped for hauling even a small amount of groceries, and if you don’t want to ride back home with your knees banging the shopping bags hanging from your handlebars, you’ll need to add some accessories to your bike before biking your groceries home isn’t a gigantic pain in the ass.
>
> Rack: Pretty simple. Putting a rack on your bike massively extends its utility. You can hang a pannier (more on them later) from the rack instead of using a backpack, keeping your back sweat-free. With the addidion of a bungee cord or more permanent strap system, you can hold things on top of it. If your bike has disc brakes, you may need a wider rack to accommodate the extra wide axle. Also, some bikes with unusual geometry may require extra-long bars for installing the rack. This and the folding basket below are probably the trickiest accessories to install, and where you might be better off having them professionally installed.
>
> Folding basket: This was a major piece of the puzzle for me. I didn’t want my bike permanently widened out with a pair of baskets off the rack. But I also wanted to be prepared to stop and do some shopping on my way home without worrying about how I would carry everything. The folding rack was the perfect solution. When I need it, it unfolds in a couple seconds and I can put stuff in it. When I don’t need it, or space is tight, it folds up quickly and it’s more or less unnoticeable off the side of my bike. It means I can make unexpected stops while on my bike to pick up a few things without having to double back in my car later. I have this Wald one, and it’s very nice. It was quite a pain to install though. Be prepared for a bit of frustration if you go the DIY route. This was the one part of these accessory installs that I used a power tool.
>
> Pannier: I mentioned this one a bit under weather. The one I have and love is this Banjo Brothers waterproof pannier and backpack. It nearly effortlessly turns from one to the other and since it’s waterproof I can take it every time. The first time I biked to a shopping mall, locked my bike up, and turned my pannier to a backpack and went shopping, I felt like a goddamn superhero. This flexibility takes a lot of anxiety out of running errands on my bike.
>
> Water bottle cages: Pretty self-explanatory. Carry water with you when you bike. I have 2 mounted, one on the down tube at a diagonal, and one on the seat tube vertical. I can carry my coffee mug in there without spilling too much. You shouldn’t have to sacrifice your second cup of coffee just because you want to bike in.
>
> Compact shopping bags: Not really sure what to call these, other than the brand name I know, Chico Bags. They fold up into a small size and unfold quickly. You can get sling ones to go over your shoulder, or the smaller ones easily go into the folding basket. Just a good thing to with you for unexpected stops.
>
> Kickstand: A lot of people are surprised when bikes don’t automatically come with kickstands. And for a lot of people, a kickstand doesn’t make sense for the kind of riding they do. I am using my bike to commute, and am more interested in convenience than weight. I got a two-legged kickstand for added stability. Keep in mind, not every single bike will accept every kickstand. If you get one with a top plate like this standard one that every bike store carries, it will work for 90% of the bikes you would expect to take a kickstand. If you bought a $5,000 tri bike with areo bars and bladed spokes for reduced wind drag, you’re not going to get a kickstand on there, sorry. Also, kickstands come in a set length and may need to be cut down with a hacksaw to fit your bike. You should be able to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right without the bike falling over. If you don’t feel comfortable measuring and cutting a kickstand, consider taking it to a bike shop.
>
>Clothing/comfort: A pair of cushioned bike shorts makes a ride a lot more enjoyable. But they’re also a lot less comfortable for anything else you’re doing. Unless you’re going to bring a change of clothes with you, bike shorts aren’t a practical piece of attire once you step off your bike. It’s not necessary to get spandexed up to ride the bike, but casual clothing does present some barriers to biking. Here’s a couple common issues and how I address them.
>
> Comfortable saddle: We’re not talking about a carbon fiber road bike with skinny tires and aero bars here, we’re talking about a commuter bike. Hopefully you figured that out while installing the fenders, rack and folding basket. Saddles come in all shapes, sizes, and materials. And second only to making sure you have the right sized bike, this is the single most important element for your comfort. Find a saddle that makes sense for the type of riding you do, and if that means it’s a gel-cushioned saddle, then go for it. Find one that doesn’t rely on the cushioned posterior of bike shorts to let you ride comfortably.
>
> Pedals/Shoes: This is a big one. If I had to stop and consider what kind of shoes I’m wearing when deciding to ride or drive, it would cut down my biking drastically. Here’s a secret: most bikes are sold with the cheapest pedals available. Even fancy bike shop bikes are shipped with cheapo pedals. Some, like $5,000 road bikes, aren’t shipped with any pedals at all, because they know that pedals are one of the first things serious riders replace. That means if you haven’t installed new pedals, your bike is probably equipped with cheap pedals that aren’t designed for the kind of riding you do or the shoes you will wear. Sometimes, just upgrading to a pair or metal pedals with more grip might do the trick. There are also systems with toe cages that will let you strap your feet in. I find these to be more of a pain than they’re worth. If you’re not going to strap your feet in for every ride, they’re a hassle as the added weight makes the cages naturally hang upside down. There’s also clipless systems, but those involve special shoes and cleat systems which are more complicated than the type of riding we’re discussing here. If you’ve ever seen someone in biker gear in the store or coffee shop and they click with every step like they’re wearing horseshoes, those are clipless shoes.
>
>What I recommend is a platform pedal like these I have a similar pair on my bike. They work and feel just like a normal bike pedal. Designed for winter adventure biking, the large pins grip effortlessly onto every kind of shoe for an effortless connection. I can ride my bike while wearing my heavy-duty safety toe boots without any problems. Some of the ones I saw on Amazon are just as cheap as any other pair of pedals. I would recommend at least getting metal ones.
>
>Pedals come in two standards, ½” and 9/16”. This measurement is the diameter of the spindle that screws into your crank. Kid’s bikes and BMX bikes are usually ½”, adult bikes are almost always 9/16”. Make sure the pedals you get are the correct spindle size. Swapping out pedals is fairly easy, every pedal I encountered will come off with either a 15mm wrench or 6mm Allen wrench. One thing to watch out for is the left pedal is reverse threaded. It will unscrew to the right and tighten to the left. Remember it with this simple mnemonic: Your left foot goes on the left pedal and it tightens to the left. Any pair of pedals you get will have the left and right clearly marked. Double-check it before installation to avoid an expensive problem.
>
>* Outerwear: Naturally the weather will be a bigger impact on your day if you’re biking rather than driving. Nice days are nicer, bad weather days are worse, and even the moderate days can be a bit challenging when you’re kitting up for some bike-based errands. If it’s one of those days where you can’t decide on short or long sleeves, biking can make these decisions even more difficult. Chilly days get chillier once you start pedaling at 10-15 miles per hour, but bundle up too much and you can overheat. The real problem here is the wind of your own passage. A fluffy sweatshirt can keep you warm when you’re walking along, but wind can blow right through it. I recommend a light windbreaker like this one I found in REI’s Outlet. It will keep the wind off, but is light enough to keep you from overheating on those days where the sun is playing peekaboo. An added benefit of paying a bit more for bike specific gear is they’re often designed with high-visibility stripes for extra safety. It’s far from fashionable, but you can get a hi-vis vest pretty cheap. They’re lightweight to not really impact your ride and can be easily stowed if you want to stop catching everyone’s eye once you step off your bike.
>

An initial investment will be required. The Fender Squier is the absolute standard in beginner basses. $150 new, much cheaper used. So if you check ebay/craigslist, you may find some decent deals. Indeed it may be defected, but that's the risk you run when buying used gear. Maybe you can work out some deal with the seller. I'd buy a used amplifier as well. The Fender Rumble still serves me to this day as a practice amp. Either way, I would just look for cheap used equipment. Beginner gear isn't supposed to be amazing. Just functional. Whatever fits your budget.

I'm a gamer myself as well. A thing that keeps one playing games is a feeling of progression - you're improving in mechanical skills, equipment, talents, etc whenever you play the game. Things that were tough aint shit after a while. If you put the time in for Bass, you will have similar experiences. Songs that used to make you sweat become childsplay. You have no idea how you used to struggle on that. You will see tangible improvements.

If you want to use your PC, a possible solution is getting an Audio Interface. Rocksmith comes with a $40 cable that can be used as an Audio Interface iirc. I'd still recommend using Guitar Pro and going to https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/ for all your bass tab needs. I tried using Rocksmith last year and didn't like it. However, maybe I would have enjoyed it more as a new beginner, since many people in this thread recommend it. Too bad it didn't exist when I started! And again, I highly recommend you play with your friend. When you play with somebody better than you, it accelerates you much quicker. You're forced to get on their level.

God I hope this formats correctly - I am a neophyte.

Exhaust - http://www.ixilusa.com/ixil-l3xb-black-hyperlow-xl-full-exhaust-yamaha-mt-07-2014-2015/

Super deep and loud sound - videos online don't do it justice, its unbelievably loud when the baffles are out. Had to have the cat cut out of it. Be aware they have a cat in the V section before the end of the pipe.

Removed the snorkel covering the airbox - I was told its basically blocks airflow.

ECU Flash / Dyno by 2wheelDynoWorks - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/15-17-yamaha-fz07-mail-in-ecu-flashing-service/

Nels himself worked on my bike - super stoked (shout out to Nate too) They have the best customer service.

Active Tune - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/yamaha-activetune-afr-closed-loop-self-tuning-ecu-kit-2/

Tune as you go

Bike side harness - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/ftlink-v1-1-6-pin-bike-side-harnesses/

For tuning later

Windscreen - https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/puig-touring-naked-new-generation-windscreen-yamaha-mt-07-2018

I got light smoke, I think it goes better with the bike and pushes wind over my shoulders even at 80+ mph

Protection - https://tstindustries.com/Womet-Tech-Total-Crash-Protection-Pack-for-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07-2015.html

Basically got everything from this except the bar ends

Bar Ends - https://motostarz.com/collections/mt-07-2018/products/rhinomoto-barends-mirror-mounts-for-yamaha-fz-mt-models

Super easy to replace mirrors etc with these - and they add protection

Throttle tube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C59NO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90 to 60 degree conversion - its amazing for the price

Dash Screen Protector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SMP4ND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mirror stem deletes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN8QGPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Current Mirrors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GB7DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mirrors in photo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the CRG Mirrors but they get bumped and are hard to readjust - the cheap ebay/amazon mirrors work great

Headlight replacement - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ5QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Signal replacement LED bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4PL33/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Super bright replacements for stock bulbs - used the original housings, they plug right in

Running light LED replacements - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For inside the headlight housing

Tail Tidy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH5YGOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Flasher Relay for LEDs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Levers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Brake-Clutch-Yamaha-MT-07-FZ-07-2014-2018-Adjustable-Engrave-Long-Lever/123350737715?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D17a37c1b2d204ffcba65903d19a97b4a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D122997203335%26itm%3D123350737715&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Passenger peg deletes - https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-YAMAHA-MT07-FZ07-Footrest-Cover-Passenger-Footpeg-Removal-Delete-Kit-2014/253869999740?hash=item3b1bd4c67c:g:3qEAAOSw0JVbm1FQ:rk:1:pf:0

I removed the passenger pegs, needed a bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir - also cleaned up the pegs

Havent done the brakes yet - going to replace the lines etc with steel braid.

Also want to do a sprocket / chain swap for acceleration

I used a quadlock phone mount for a little bit - but took it off because I was playing with my phone too much.

This sounds like a good reason to start changing your own tires. It sucks at first, but after you do it a few times it gets much easier. A good set of spoons/levers will cost you around $20-30. Get 3 of them, it makes it easier. Maybe consider getting this guy for $12: http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0471-Bead-Buddy/dp/B0035UDHZ2 (it acts like a third hand to keep bead on tire when putting tire back on). Then you just need a valve core remover ($1-2). Balancing tires is actually really easy too. http://www.amazon.com/SMI-Motorcycle-Wheel-Balancer/dp/B0040HE8OS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407863820&sr=1-1&keywords=motorcycle+wheel+balancer

Let me know if you want help learning, I can point you to some good install vids. It's not as easy as they make it out on the videos though when you first start, but after you do a few you'll be a pro and never take tires in again.

No problem, I wish you luck with your project!

Depth of discharge is definitely important for battery longevity. The more 'shallow' your discharge cycles are with any sort of Lead Acid chemistry, the longer the battery will usually live. :)

Also, if you're going to go over ~300-400 Ah of battery storage (rated) consider making the change to a 24 volt system before you start ordering components. The reason for this is to ensure you don't end up using cables the size of your arms to carry the current you need. When you double the nominal battery bank voltage, you half the current being carried by your conductors in that circuit, thus reducing the needed wire size. It doesn't sound like you'll need to go with a 24 volt system though, as you won't really need that much storage, or that much solar.

​

Remember:

Voltage x Amps = Power in Watts

Power in Watts x Hours = Energy in Watt-hours

​

>What do you think of the Optima BlueTop? They are more money than most AGMs, but they claim superior number of recharges. I can get the 66Ah at Costco for $299CAD. But I'd probably need at least 3 of these.

Try something like this instead:

https://www.trojanbattery.com/solar-agm-2/

Avoid 'marine/starter' batteries like they tend to sell at Costco and auto parts stores. (Optima BlueTop included.) They're designed to be a hybrid of a 'starter battery' (for a motor) and a 'deep cycle' battery for running electrical equipment. They will not live as long as something that is designed purely for deep cycling like the Trojan Solar AGM's, or even these Renogy ones: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Battery-Marine-Off-grid-Applications/dp/B075RFXHYK/

EDIT:

Renogy also makes a gel-cel equivalent of that one, here:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-100Ah-Rechargeable-Cycle-Battery/dp/B01KN6QUW2/

EDIT 2:

By the way, there are some differences between Gel-cel lead acid and AGM lead acid batteries, but they are both non-spillable (Sealed) battery types, that come in 'true deep cycle' varieties. :)

​

Easy way to tell if it's a 'hybrid' battery type (designed for use where it will start an engine at times), is to check if it has those 'automotive style' post terminals. The ones that you find on your car battery. 'Marine' batteries that have both automotive and screw termainls, like those BlueTops, are not quite ideal for use in a solar application.

Get a pair of bar-ends. They even have ones that "convert" a flat bar to drops. But even traditional bar-ends will provide you with some additional variety of hand positions which will help alleviate hand/arm discomfort on longer rides. This is an inexpensive solution that may effectively alleviate your comfort problems.

As for any further upgrades, I would not bother with this bike. Keep it well maintained, and sell it and buy another used bike that may be better suited to the kind of riding you want to get into.

It's never worth it to upgrade a lower-tier bike such as yours (and actually most hybrids). It's barely worth it to upgrade even mid-tier bikes, but not all decisions are economical when you're comfortable on a particular bike or have an emotional attachment to it - upgrades in the "few hundred dollars" category might be worth it, and wheel upgrades are definitely worth it, as you can bring a good wheel to your next bike. Upper tier bikes rarely need upgrades, except maybe a wheelset.

Hmmmm yes. One more. The GreaseNinja will make all your chain lubrications a breeze. I use that with Motul Factory Chain Wax.

For even easier chain cleaning once every 1k miles like I do, get a Tirox 360 brush and a chemical-resistant spraybottle and fill it with kerosene. Kerosene is amazing. It doesn't damage paint or anything and is totally safe on your chain, wipes away wax and lube fling in seconds, it's great, just make sure you have ventilation so it evaporates away quickly. Put the bike up on rear stand, put an oil catch pan under the chain, throw on some disposable work gloves, wrap the 360 around the chain, turn the rear and slide the 360 along the chain with sprays of kerosene. After some scrubs, wipe it down with a rag'll you throw away later. Your chain will shine like new in about 2 minutes. Let it sit for 5 minutes to have the kerosene evaporate, and then wax, let it sit for 5 minutes for the wax to set, and you're done. Clean, lubricated chain in 10 minutes.

Stole all of this directly from Canyon Chasers and they were absolutely fucking right about the GreaseNinja, the Tirox 360 and the kerosene. Chain cleaning went from chore, to breeze.

>A throttle body sync sounds quite in depth as well, but I will look into it.

It really isn't too bad, but is made infinitely easier by having the right tools. There are a lot of $5 solutions that folk use, but unless you really know what you're looking for then the majority won't be able to figure it out

I'm a huge fanof this device. It's not cheap, but it makes it super clear how your sync is looking. You can use it on any bike, including if you ever get a 4 cyl.

It's a bit of an investment, but still cheaper than having a shop do it. Plus I loan it out to friends for a 12-pack now, so it'll pay for itself many times over

It's all about that safety-bling.

After trying different mirrors I can definitely recommend these. You might end up paying the same amount for a more flimsy bicycle mirror that doesn't hold its position and has vibration issues or has a really small surface area. This particular model has a slight convex reflection, an aero profile, and a light weight compared to a rectangular EMGO type which is heavier, flat reflecting and not at all aero. Torqued down into a suitable handlebar bracket over some electrical tape and it's super solid. I suppose you could mount these inverted (hanging down under a handlebar) assuming clearance is acceptable. I tested odd things like mounting them onto the ends of bar ends but they were simply too far out (in a bad way). The mirror does rotate all the way around at the adjustment stem to accommodate.

Another angle of my ride. Kind of like a walking stick insect or something. I am super safe in traffic and never have a blind spot if the road ends up curving.

I have these ones (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WM3WDXA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and they're great.
Super bright and clear as day. Everyone that rides with me is always impressed.
http://imgur.com/GGM7nhh

I don’t like too many things sticking out of my Spider either..

I’ve been thinking...

Wouldn’t it be nice to have a deck like this one which could blink yellow, independently, on each side (left/right)? This way, we’d be seen from pretty much all angles.

Maybe something like this could be adapted somewhere on the sides of the deck? What do you think? :)

This is the most popular solar set-up. Then a battery like this. You may need an inverter, too, but that depends on your needs.

Water depends entirely on you. You can get five gallon jugs that re-fill at Home Depot for $7, for example. A lot of people get water for free at gas stations or parks.

It seems like you're just getting started thinking about this. I recommend the FAQ. There's lot of good stuff in there!

Yeah, I have the Sunpie head lights and fogs. There have been some mixed reviews on them, but they have been really good so far over the last month, requires some splicing, and the high beams flicker a bit, but overall they've been great for the price.

SUNPIE LED Headlights Bulb with Halo Angel Eye Ring & DRL & Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WM3WDXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Seu6xb5FJ43ZW

Doing what you're proposing will end one of three ways:

1. The line level signal voltage isn't strong enough for the factory amplifier and it will be quiet
   
2. The resistance at the factory amplifier will be too low for the line level, resulting in burned up pre-outs on your new deck
   
3. By some minor miracle the factory amplifier sings proudly with 1-4v and provides the requisite 10k+ ohm input impedance and all is well.
   
   The adapter you listed are for specific amplifier models designed to accept speaker-level inputs via the RCA cables. These aftermarket amplifiers generally have a switch to change the input type from line level to speaker level so you don't go burning things up.
   
   There probably is a plug and play solution out there to wire an aftermarket deck to your factory amplifier that isn't hacky. I suggest googling it. "[auto year make and model] retain factory amplifier" should do the trick. Like "1999 Nissan Maxima retain factory bose amplifier" results in a PAC ROEM NIS2 adapter.

>I am much like you where without having an ebike, I wouldn't be riding a bike at all. Great intro, I enjoyed reading your post :)

​

Thanks! Do you have any pictures of your rack/basket? I've got some bags and a milk crate I was looking to add once the rack for this bike comes back in stock.

​

The seat is definitely a nice upgrade! (link in another comment above) and the mirrors I got are these: https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Universal-Hawk-eye-Motorcycle-Convex/dp/B06Y2RH6WG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=F0TXYRTSL7HF&keywords=motorcycle+mirrors&qid=1562001013&s=gateway&sprefix=1ft+usb%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-3


Maybe a bit overkill for this, but I wasn't happy with the dinky ones typically used for bicycles. Bolts on just the same though, large field of view and good style

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

I'm going to have to weigh my options on that one. It would be nice to make my own connections since this is a DIY project, but want to keep it cheap as well.

​

>How are you charging the 'house' battery?

I'll have to look into that. I'm not sure if the alternator charges that battery or not, but it can be charged from the generator. I won't be using either of those options if possible, my plan is to recharge it using the 100 watt portable panel since it'll mainly be used for the water pump, wifi amplifier, and lp/smoke alarms.

​

>What's the gel-cell's model number and such?

It's a renogy 100aH 12v battery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KN6QUW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

from the product description:

Specifications:
Cells Per Unit: 6
Voltage Per Unit: 12
Capacity: 100Ah 20hr-rate to 1.75V per cell 25℃
Weight: Approx. 67 lbs
Max. Discharge Current: 1000 A (5 sec)
Normal Operating Temperature Range:25°C±5℃
Float charging Voltage: 13.6 to 13.8 VDC/unit Average at 25℃
Recommended Maximum Charging Current: 20A
Container Material: A.B.S. UL94-HB, UL94-V0 Optional
Specification: 12.8X6.8X8.8 In.

​

>Also, hooking up the solar to your house battery system is pretty easy, especially if it's 12 volts nominal. Depending on specifics there are better and worse ways to do it, but in theory it's very simple. :)

The solar battery bank will be in the storage next to the under the stairs battery, so it won't be too far. Another reason I didn't want to do this is the RV only has 1 12v outlet in the front, so everything i use will be going off the inverter anyway, and I have the 100 watt portable panel to charge the house battery for those small electrical needs mentioned above

If you did want to do this, you've got a few options, but none of them are good or cheap.

You could get your shifters to the tops of bullhorns by buying some thumb shifter mounts. These run $65, but you might be able to find some used. You can mount downtube shifters on those, which I bet you can find in a used bin.

For brakes, you'll need to switch to mechanical brakes. You might find hydro levers made for bullhorns, but they're usually sold as a set with brakes, and they won't be easy to find used. The current levers aren't the right diameter for bullhorns, so they'll need to go. You could probably find some cheap road disc brakes, and some TT levers for $50- $100.


So, all said and done, you'll be in between $200 and $300 if you go all used, and that's with the absolute cheapest parts you can find, all for a bar setup that will probably stretch you out more than you want (if your bike fits you properly), and with a downgrade from hydro to mechanical brakes.


What about just buying some barends for $15 to see if you like the position?

That's a good deal. There's also this alternative for less money but it's just the bass itself. But with a bass amp like the Fender Rumble 15 it still adds up to $279. But with the deal you found on the Guitar Center site, I'd say go with the one you linked. It's the same price as what I just linked but yours has a lot of extra stuff. I say go for it! Maybe someone will post something better but until then I like the direction you're heading.

I installed these CRG Bar End Mirrors on my 2012 Kawasaki Z1000. Expensive, yes, but the visibility is superb. I highly recommend them. Looks kind of like this

ahh, sure so if you can force air in through filters you get only clean air in, sure, what sort of fans and cases are good for that? because I guess you need some decent intake fans to pull air through the foam filters? (this is like what my case has, fairly thin so air moves through it) https://www.amazon.com/Uni-Filter-BF-2-30-PPI-Coarse/dp/B000ONZT5Y

They're actually just some cheapo $20 mirrors from Amazon. They feel pretty solid and they're fairly adjustable though. I'm pretty happy with them!

Hello, thank you guys for doing this. I have a chain lube question.
I live in LA, right near the beach. I started using this and not 2 weeks go bye and rust starts to appear. I like that is sprays on white so I can see the areas I've covered, and it's super sticky. But dat rust though...
I ride every day so this is important to the longevity of my chain.
Is there a better lube to be using to prevent this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07FCCJR87?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I am a big fan of these mirrors, only $20. I have not had any issues with rattling or movement while riding. They also look pretty sweet and give a pretty decent view behind you.

This is what I used for my 06 altima ser with Bose Works perfect and super easy to install. Was my second time doing a install.

Carb synching is pretty straightforward, and can be done with or without a carb synch tool. I have a CarbTune Pro as I wanted one that did not use liquid.

Without a carb synch tool, you can do a "bench sync." A bench sync means you remove the carbs and adjust the butterflies manually so they open at exactly the same time. You can accomplish this by either filling the carb (where the butterfly is) with gas / brake clean / etc. and adjusting the adjuster screws so when the throttle actuator BARELY opens, the fluid begins to drop at the same time. Alternately you can do it by eye, or use a thin piece of wire or something similar that's held by the butterfly while the throttle is closed and falls upon opening. The biggest issue you want to address is to get them both to open initially at the exact same time.

A carb tune simply helps you adjust this whilst on the bike w/ the bike running and you can verify things are good at various RPM ranges.

Start with a metric wrench set, and a Metric Socket set, I would get 6 Pt sockets instead of 12, so you don't strip things. Then also screwdrivers, and a hammer.

The common sizes you need are 8, 10, 12, 14, 22 is the front axle nut, 27 is the rear.

These metric drivers make life so easy.

Also something like these T handled metric Hex Key. Having different colors makes it super easy to just reach and get the right tool you need.

Also I would get tire iron set. And a bead buddy2 For changing tires.

I would say something in the 15 watt range would be plenty for bedroom practice.

I am fond of my Fender Rumble amp (http://www.amazon.com/Fender-Rumble-Bass-Combo-Amplifier/dp/B00HWINK1E $79). I use this one,s big brother in my band.

I also have a friend who has an Ampeg like this one (http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/BA108V2 $99) if you want to get a bit louder and dirtier. Welcome to the club!

Fender delete is from Vagabond Motorsports. They have a YouTube video that makes installation a breeze.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VTHCF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l6B4BbZR0N13E

I’m loving the Zoom. I paired mine with the chimera intake and the bike pulls much harder in 2nd/3rd gear. Great sound and solid dB level for other drivers to hear you coming.

• http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Single-Speed-Converstion-Kit/dp/B00TWQ6XF4
  
• http://www.amazon.com/104mm-Single-Chain-Black-Speed/dp/B00D3FG6ZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456934386&sr=8-1&keywords=race+face+34t
  
• http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/us/en/gusset-double-six-single-speed-sprocket/rp-prod17775?gs=1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAu9q2BRDq3MDbvOL1yaYBEiQAD6qoBthJ0uEuuCv0T4ogPVfr0zKU-zhw9AuODrixE28R_0YaAuiL8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
  
• http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-9-Speed/dp/B000RWE868/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1456934656&sr=8-1&keywords=SRAM+971
  
  This would work ? How do i know the race face chain ring size i have to get? 34t, yes, but 104mm, 110mm etc.. ?
  
  
• How about chainring 38, cog 12? gear inches come to 83,4 like that, that seems optimal, is it ?
  
• Or, chainring 34, cog 14? chainring 34, cog 12?
  
• Can i measure the size of the cog i need.
  
• Explain this like im 5

Can anyone speak to fender eliminator kits such as these?

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Rebel-integrated-fender-eliminator/dp/B07635YKLN

Also considering just removing the fender and trying to wire a strip like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=psdc_8323687011_t2_B07635YKLN

I like the minimalist look but don't want to sacrifice visibility.

Thanks for the help!

sorry for responding late - had to wait until I got home to take a pic. Bonus video though: here. I have my stupidly-bright LED headlight (this one) on and you can still see the turn signal pretty obviously I think. Here's a pic showing the hose clamp attachment part more clearly (IMO it's not very visible unless you're looking for it).

Eventually I'd like to upgrade it to something like this but obviously I don't have anywhere to put an arduino...

It was extremely easy. I used this wiring diagram: http://s222.photobucket.com/user/HOTTTiEBOi7/media/g35_pacoem2_to_jvs_kw-avx820_zps17433e60.jpg.html
I had to splice some wires, but everything was plug and play from there. I wouldn't recommend the headunit/adapter combo I got because I had to sand down the adapter a bit to fit it over the head unit.

• wiring harness (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CE9OY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• double din adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KI1V4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• head unit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015PZVSCS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I love the look of this reflective rim tape , although it's not completely lit up , it still looks good at night or with flash. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RTYYK/ref=sr_rp_1?m=A21JCJ19UN8DCH&ie=UTF8&qid=1457748328&sr=sr-1&keywords=reflective+rim+tape

Thanks! I got the Vagabond: https://www.amazon.com/Vagabond-Motorsports-VM-HG710-Fender-Eliminator/dp/B01M0VTHCF

I like it because it was very easy to install, required no permanent modifications, and used the stock turn signals and license plate light.

Edit: Here's a before/after pic: https://i.imgur.com/JJFddUj.jpg

I use sunpie , ive had it a few months and it works really well. Guys over on the harley sub love it. Also it was less than $60

Here is the base list:
The headlight:
https://modernmotorcycle.co/collections/headlights/products/headlight-7-black-cafe-style

The Brackets:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAX-Razor-42mm-43mm-Motorcycle-Motorbike-Alloy-Fork-Mount-Headlight-Brackets-/171683771913?rmvSB=true

Bar end mirrors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Bar ends:
https://www.solomotoparts.com/RhinoMoto-Bar-End-Slider-for-Threaded-Mirror-Mount-for-FZ1-6-6R-01-13/?variant=413202&gclid=CjwKCAiAlfnUBRBQEiwAWpPA6ciEA4_7LnX703r0ViirGVRMtk3ewBXmJAEsLxOKK1Rupah5Zht2zhoC3GMQAvD_BwE


You'll also need some M8x1.25 bolts to secure the headlight as well as some steel and rubber washers to keep everything secure.

You want to support your body as much as you can with your legs and core, not your arms. There's a saying in MTB "heavy feet, light hands", in which you should basically be able to ride the bike with nothing more than your fingertips on the bars.

As for extended bars, there are a few options. Ergon makes grips that are really nice and come in a variety of sizes as far as the extensions.

You can also get drops/extensions that clamp onto the ends of the bars.

I got there mirrors on Amazon

They're definitely not super high quality but they look good and dont vibrate bad.

Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K.j5xbR4YFQ8C

It's a cheap one, so I doubt it'll last but it looks good and works well. I just hooked the ground to a 9volt battery and mapped out the wiring, added bullet connections and hooked it up.

Not OP, but I just installed a set of similar halos and they look amazing. I'll post pics as soon as I get unlazy.

FWIW here's an amazon version very similar that has pretty shitty reviews - https://www.amazon.com/Huicocy-Pair-Universal-Adjustable-Mirror/dp/B01CVBUZ8M/ref=sr_1_23?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467052887&sr=1-23&keywords=motorcycle+mirrors - it looks like it uses plastic bolts instead of metal though.



I've got these on my DRZ right now and like the way the look and work - https://www.amazon.com/Neverlandback%C2%AE-Stealth-Style-Motorcycle-Mirrors/dp/B00CHCPT32/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1467052887&sr=1-5&keywords=motorcycle+mirrors

> Morgan Carbtune Pro

where do you think is the best place to purchase one? does this look right? https://www.amazon.com/CARBTUNE-PRO-4-W-Pouch/dp/B018UTHGPE

Yeah, it wasn't too bad.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CHCPT32/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the mirrors alot, I've bought them twice now.

Looks good. Why don't you give these mirrors a try? Their lines will go well with that headlight. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CHCPT32/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419728286&sr=8-1

Tire iron kit,
Bead buddy (helps when taking the tire off), Lift (this has worked well for my KLR, combine with a couple of jack stands for more stability)

Other things that help: rubber mallet, needle nose pliers, SERVICE MANUAL, torque wrenches.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCCJR87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got these and assembly is super strong, it's not moving anywhere. and it's only 16$

I had to replace CRG ARROW because my idiot boss broke them on purpose. Ripped it off with his hand.

It's fairly important.

Dust acts as an insulator, and as more builds up, it will slowly and progressively reduce the effectiveness of fans and radiator fins.

Filters greatly help reduce dust buildup, though they do restrict airflow a small amount.

You can McGuyver up some from foam like this stuff and a pair of scissors, and put it in front of intake fans for desktops. I put mine in front of the metal 'cage' that my intake fan is behind, and then closed the front panel over it. It works well.

For my laptop, a used dryer sheet (don't use a fresh one, I have no idea what the fabric softener stuff will do) trimmed to size and taped over the fan intake on the outside of the case works well. It can be hidden if you're willing to open the laptop and put it in the inside of the bottom plate of most laptops. (Mine comes off as 1 piece, exposing all of the internals).

Hey Buddy - I saw this fender delete listed in a post a while back and everyone seemed to love it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0VTHCF/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1W5TMCJ579Y88&psc=1

Amazon has them in black (pair) and chrome as a single unit (you will need to buy a pair of them). I have the chrome one on my Harley and it works amazing.

Not OP, but these are the ones all my biker friends recommend

I use Motul Chain Clean and Chain Lube and both work great.

I used these. They work great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5RTYYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Big fan of these lights:

7" LED Headlights Bulb with White Halo Angel Eye Ring DRL & Amber Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2

it's an incredible tail light for $10. Brighter than the original by far. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/Wiipro-Universal-Davidson-Flexible-motorcycle/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1499461785&sr=8-8&keywords=brake+light+motorcycle

Here.. i had to modify the spacers came with. The 7/8’s were too small and i dont like how they wiggled or moving even they are fully tighten. So what i did is dremel the 1” spacer and removing few mm just to fit inside the handlebar then tighten them. Rocksolid and these mirror holds man.. im satisfied.
MICTUNING Universal Motorcycle... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCCJR87?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use these and they work pretty well, but I do have to put my elbows down a little to see directly behind me. If I'm stopped at a light I can clearly see approaching traffic from behind, which is the main reason I run with mirrors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06Y2RH6WG

7" LED Headlight For Harley... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018LXCS0C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

If you have a 7 inch bucket this will fit on your bike. I put this on my 76 CB750 and it is amazing.

How reflective is it in normal lighting conditions?

I found this seller on Amazon and he says he can custom-make any of his reflective tape.

customTAYLOR33 (All Vehicles Blue High Intensity Grade Reflective Copyrighted Safety Rim Tapes (Must select your rim size), 17" (Rim Size for Most SportsBikes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G5RTYYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CYMXCb3AG9QQS

$72 each? I'd try my luck with these $16/pair first:

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Universal-Motorcycle-Mirrors-Kawasaki/dp/B07FCCJR87/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537141564&sr=8-4

LED headlight bracket

LED Headlights

Auxillary Light LED

Integrated Tail Light

Bar End Mirrors

Radiator Guard

Rear Swingarm Spools

Mirror Mount Block off

Frame Sliders
This company sells a larger set of spools & sliders that is great!

CS Escapamentos Exhaust

Wind Screen

Levers

Block off plate substitute this is for when you get a full exhaust, youtube "block off plates z900" for more info
The prices all vary and there's PLENTY of options elsewhere. I just happened to get these over time. I also bought an engine guard/cage on Amazon but never could get it to fit properly.

Hahahahaha, right?! I was like "welp, there's no way that's gonna come out the way I want." That poor customer service guy was probably like "WTF does that even mean."

Here is [a link to the rimtape] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G5RTYYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It's a bit pricey, compared to what else is out there, but as you can see, it's SO worth it. My advice is to place it carefully and slowly, working off the inner portion of the rim (closest to the inside where the valve stem is).

Ah ok. That makes sense. In terms of open cell foam, do you think this would be adequate? I would most likely want to cut and adhere the material to the inside walls of the compartment, right?

Xitomer 2 PCS M10x1.25 Mirror Hole Plugs, For Yamaha FZ-09/ FZ-07, HONDA CRF250L/ CB1000R, SUZUKI SV650, KAWASAKI Z125/ Z400/ Versys 650, KTM DUKE 790, DUCATI, Triumph, BMW, Aluminum CNC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN8QGPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5MdFDbC4PX9TJ

They do the job

On Amazon

On my and my friends bikes

You can get these if you get a mirror that mounts different than OEM. Cleans it up nicely.

Best Buy did not sell me that adapter, unfortunately.

While researching the LP6-4 I stumbled upon this: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Interface-Integrate-Amplifiers/dp/B000CE9OY2

$20 cheaper and addresses the issue of connecting to Bose amps in a Nissan. Just ordered it - will update after I hook it up.

4GB should be enough. If not, it is one of the easiest upgrades to do on a PC.


You can also add a dust filter to your pc.


http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Air-Filter-Polyurethane-Protects/dp/B000FJU8BC


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ONZT5Y/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=

7" LED Headlights Bulb with White Halo Angel Eye Ring DRL & Amber Turn Signal Lights for Jeep Wrangler JK LJ CJ Hummer H1 H2 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00WM3WDXA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8YkuDb21TBP7J

The first thing is a Dynojet Power Vision, then pipes and getting rid of the back plate, lights, and turn signals. I’m thinking of covering the ugly intake with stickers for awhile, then a K&N. It seems like it would let more air in than the K&N.

Edit: I’m thinking this will help clean up the back end greatly

Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KcaWBbNMFS70X

Ordered it like that, just had to wire it in. It's similar to this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XNYOzbGXT8CTA

I mean the real ones are like $13 dollars more, don't buy unnecessary food/coffee/drink/whatever for a week and you've recuperated the cost of wondering. https://amzn.com/B00D3FG6ZW

Wiipro Universal led Harley Davidson Light Strip Tail Brake Stop Turn Signal 32LED 8" Flexible led light for motorcycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ssWBzbZM1208N

Something like this could possibly work. I had a similar setup on a previous bobber.

I just put on some reflective tape that I ordered from amazon.
Heres the link http://www.amazon.com/customTAYLOR33-Patented-Intensity-Grade-Reflective/dp/B00G5RTYYK/ref=aag_m_pw_dp?ie=UTF8&m=A21JCJ19UN8DCH

I purchased these on Amazon to fill those holes.

No, just tapped into the DRL and Blinker wiring (theirs YT videos) The lights are Sunpie 7"Round Halo for Jeep JK (H3 connector). You will need to find a way to mount them. I removed the headlight base and used a new mount (ordered from Amazon) for the new lights. You have alot of options for headlights, I just bought these because they were reasonably priced

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WM3WDXA/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFRWFMyTUtRQzBVQTcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA1MTg1MDAyOUxYWDQxV1RLV0syJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1NDMyNjgzSDA4WjZQNEdPNTdXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0

https://www.amazon.com/Mounting-Wrangler-2007-2017-Unlimited-Headlights/dp/B07GNZ7XBL

However, they are quite inexpensive

https://www.amazon.com/Wiipro-Universal-Davidson-Flexible-motorcycle/dp/B01GJGCR9U/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=led+tail+lights+motorcycle&qid=1567195964&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSDZYTVo5MloyU0VUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTcxMTM2VEpNQTRPUVJTM0xaJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MTY5NTkzNzc3SDNWNUFIVVoxJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I found this:
https://www.amazon.com/Xitomer-M10x1-25-CRF250L-KAWASAKI-Aluminum/dp/B07BN8QGPV/ref=pd_rhf_eetyp_s_bmx_1_6/133-7684950-0170147?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07BN8QGPV&pd_rd_r=6999fb98-b80c-4ef4-a098-7bf0e0377f70&pd_rd_w=W9aKi&pd_rd_wg=aZyJI&pf_rd_p=9df495ae-f738-404f-900b-1a86db983798&pf_rd_r=RCQJBKJ0G9M0W27QNWWS&psc=1&refRID=RCQJBKJ0G9M0W27QNWWS

https://www.amazon.com/LED-Headlights-Signal-Jeep-Wrangler/dp/B00WM3WDXA/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1525074994&sr=1-10&keywords=7+Inch+Cree+LED+Headlights

Then get these for 120 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/SUNPIE-LED-Headlights-Jeep-Wrangler/dp/B00WM3WDXA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1486492412&sr=8-4&keywords=halo+led+wrangler

https://www.amazon.com/SUNPIE-LED-Headlights-Jeep-Wrangler/dp/B00WM3WDXA

These look very similar

Mirror Hole Plugs These are the ones I'm using

How does this list look:

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-87-473-12-Inch-Adjustable-Wrench/dp/B000628RIE/ref=sr_1_sc_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381203254&sr=1-3-spell&keywords=cresecnet+wrench

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0471-Bead-Buddy/dp/B0035UDHZ2/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1381203136&sr=1-8&keywords=motorcycle+tire+spoons

http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-assorted-tire-iron


http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/203/24520/ITEM/Moose-Racing-Heavy-Duty-Tube.aspx

http://www.rematiptop.com/part.php?pid=242&cid=43&sid=18

http://www.amazon.com/Puncture-Repair-Inflation-Inflator-Motorcycle/dp/B004QP47NG/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1381203775&sr=8-9&keywords=co2+dirt+bike

https://www.amazon.com/Neverlandback%C2%AE-Stealth-Style-Motorcycle-Mirrors/dp/B00CHCPT32/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=neverlandback+mirrors&qid=1554756538&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00CHCPT32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed these, was a snap - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WM3WDXA/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CHCPT32/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am speaking from personal experience on my own car and I'm not sure if it'll pertain at all to your situation so take it however you want.

I own a 2006 G35 with factory bose amp and if I did not use the correct interface kit and spliced the headunit cables directly to the factory audio interface, i would experience the same exact symptoms you did. This was because on my car the bose amp needed to havea the correct signal supplied to which was only possible with this interface kit: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-ROEM-NIS2-Interface-Integrate-Amplifiers/dp/B000CE9OY2

again this is for my car and I dont know if you have a factory amp or anything but maybe its something you can look into

Kind of expensive though, sold as a single unit

Revzilla

Amazon

Prices are about the same on ebay as well but any "bar clamp" mirror should do the trick. I have kind of the same problem on the busa, solid bars so the standard bar end mirrors won't work but these do.

If you're iffy about the price, a lot of guys in my group ride with just one on whichever side they prefer.

These Headlights are surprisingly good for the price I Also Wired the Halo LED to a fuse that turned on when the Key is On/Running the Jeep. You'll have to adjust your headlights after but there a little t15 screw that allows you to do that (Left for lower, right for Higher, on my 2015 Sahara I can access this screw without taking the Grille off)

Be CAREFUL with Vruzend. Fuse every cell. I destroyed half my garage because I thought my tiny 36 cell packs (4s6p) was safe only being charged to 14v since it should have been safe up to 16.8v. Only takes one bad cell to screw up your life. I've decided it is no longer worth the effort to harvest 18650 batteries. The Renogy 100ah 12v ( https://amzn.to/2NO883u ) for $214 is rated for 1100 cycles at 50% depth of discharge. There's the LifePo4 version for $800 which is rated at 7000 cycles but I ain't made of that kind of money.

I'm not a 100% sure... I bought all the parts and then had a shop install it...

I did purchase this so I was under the assumption that the Bose stuff was still being used: PAC ROEM-NIS2 System Interface Kit to Replace Factory Radio and ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CE9OY2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_kewKBbKMG7D5B

The installer said he wasn't needed, but I didn't get it back, so I'm not sure if it was installed or if they just kept it.

What if I put some handlebar ends ? But I saw someone on the internet who converted his bad boy to road bike but I think that's going to cost you a little money.

No worries!

License Plate Bracket - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B482VWN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 mounted on the side by the rear tire

Brake Light - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJGCR9U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AMLMN1HNSN4VN&psc=1 - super glued it under the seat where visible

I've only done a few things but really my favorite so far is new mirrors, I think the round mirrors ruin the atheistic on a bike which is mostly hard angles, plus I can't see behind me with the stock mirrors.


I use these now
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CHCPT32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I bough some cheap $30 mirrors for my Buell. They kind of look cheap from close up. But I can't live without them now...
http://imgur.com/a/35W9j

This time around I bough the Arrow mirrors... They haven't arrived yet.
http://www.amazon.com/CRG-Mirror-Arrow-Black-AO-100/dp/B003RESHVU

With all the things I still want to buy, I made this to illustrate my new problem.

http://imgur.com/myWvcAX

Picked up a bone-stock 2017 FZ-07 two weeks ago for an absolute steal. Have been steadily adding a few mods. Let me know what you think!

Motodynamic Integrated Taillight

Motodynamic Fender Eliminator

Motodynamic Flush Front LED Signals

Amazon Shorty Levers

Reflective Rim Tape

R6 Throttle Tube (Pending Install)

Akrapovic Titanium full exhaust (Pending Install)

Cyclops 7000 Lumen LED Headlight

Tank Pads

_

Next up on the waiting list -

Fuel controller/remap/powercommander - still undecided which, let me know what you prefer!

x2 CRG Arrow Mirrors

Woodcraft Clip-ons