(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best car audio & video

I have a few, but it depends on your budget. If you are looking for all in one DAC and Amp combos, the two I would suggest are:

BUDGET

FiiO E10K and the NuForce uDAC3

Both of those would be great options for a budget solution, and they are tiny so they double as a portable or mobile Dac/Amp. They get power from USB, but it should be enough to drive 50ohm headphones. The Fiio is going to be the cheaper of the two, around $75, and the Nuforce will be around $100. Sometimes the Nuforce uDac3 will be around $70-$80 on amazon, but it's usually around $100.

MORE EXPENSIVE

If you have between $200-$300 budget, then I would recommend the Modi 2 and Magni 2 by Schiit Audio. It is usually referred to as the 'Schiit Stack" (because you literally stack them on top of each other lol), but you don't have to stack them.

If you go to their site, it will lists all of their amps, and all of their Dacs. The Magni 2 is the Amp, and the Modi 2 is the Dac. There are the basic versions (which is what I have), and they run $99 each if you order directly through Schiit, which comes out to $200 for the set. They also make an "Uber" version of each, which runs about $150 bucks per unit, which is $300 total. The differences between the standard and Uber version or sort of minimal, but the Uber version of the Schiit stack is regarded by many audiophiles as the best "budget" audiophile Dac/Amp setup. For the price, it rivals many solid state and tube amp and dacs that cost $500+ dollars.



I have the Standard version, and it sounds great with my AKG K612's. There is a list somewhere of all of the headsets that sound great with the Schiit stack, and what kind of sound signature you get out of each. The best thing to do if you already know what kind of sound signature you like out of your headphones, is to find the Headphone + Dac/Amp combo that produces that type of sound, and pic that. But I would say that the HD598's + the Schiit stack will be perfectly fine for you, but of course that will be up for you to decide if you were to go this route.

MY SUGGESTION

I would recommend the budget route, at least until you know what kind of sound signature you like. Some people want flat sounding cans, others want bright highs (probably really good for hearing gunshots and footsteps), others want a more warm sound, where the mids really break through the track and the bass really kicks.

The budget option will be a cheap way for you to determine if the HD598's produce the type of sound you like. If they do, then you can upgrade your Dac and Amp in the future, OR just change to a different headset if you decide that you want more highs, or more low end.

This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.

I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.

As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.

/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.

Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out

>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.

In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.

You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.

All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.

I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.

.

.

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^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.

Nice! Since its in a cabinet, and its a single DIN, you should be able to find some great options for great prices. Probably so many options it will be hard to narrow them down! If you want built in Bluetooth, you will probably find lots of good options from good brand names for around $99. If you don't want built in Bluetooth, you can probably find nice options for more like $70.

I've had good luck with Sony stuff for the last few years, so I think you would probably be very happy with something like this. It comes with Bluetooth built in, and also with it's own remote for volume and basic functions. Of course there are tons of other great models and brands out there, so I don't mean to say this is the only way to go. If there is something else you find that you like more, feel free to post it here and I'll look it over for you.

Also just wanted to say you are a good wife! Buying a man a stereo for his boat ... that is just a WIN WIN. :)

Edit: If you think you might someday upgrade your stock speakers, and there is room in your budget, this high powered version might be worth the extra money. But if you were happy with the sound of the original stock radio, I would not bother.

This doesn't seem like it's unsalvageable at all. The Hertz speaks you got look like they're pretty nice, and this amp actually seems really cool if it does what it says on paper.

Like everyone else said, yes, that sub is junk. Putting another, better sub in that box may not really accomplish what you want, either. The thing about subwoofers is that the size of the box you put them in matters. Subwoofer specifications will list the ideal internal volume of the box you put them in, depending on whether or not the box is sealed, ported, or bandpass.

If you don't know the difference it's worth a Google to read up on, but it looks like you have a sealed box, meaning there's no other holes in it. It's a closed box that the speaker is installed into. This tends to be the most common in simple setups.

In your case, if you're looking for something that will sound good and fit under your seat, I'd suggest looking at the Kicker Hideaway powered sub. I was somewhat skeptical of it, but I took a shot on it and installed it in my girlfriend's Subaru wagon under the driver's seat. I'm honestly really impressed with it. For its size, it can put out a huge amount of bass and the sound quality is really good.

Your amp has a sub pre-amp out that could easily be run to a powered sub like this, and it'd probably fit right under the seat in that truck.

Honestly I think you're about 85% of the way to a really nice sounding system, you just need to get the DSP set up properly and solve the subwoofer equation.

Do you want it to get loud or do you care about sound quality(staging and imaging)? Aftermarket speakers will definitely sound better but you could lose midbass due to the fact that they are optimized for using an amp and the factory speakers most likely have some filtering involved to boost the bottom end. You can overcome this with an amp and also doing some sound deadening.

Component sets are definitely a better option compared to money spent on Coaxials. You can get a $500 set of components that sound great or a $200 set of components and do some treatments and have an awesome set up.

With $500 to spend I would use half for speaker and the rest on deadening. I personally like Image Dynamics or Morelyou can get great sets of those around the $200 mark. You can do a modest amp. Something like the Zapco. then spend the rest on fastrings and deadener. You dont have to go to the nth degree with deadener but adding some CLV and sealing up the holes will go along ways.

Hey guys,


The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.


Here is my current equipment at my work desk:

• Dell E1505 laptop - crappy, giant, old school enterprise laptop. Only audio output is 1/8th headphone jack and the sound card is awful
  
• M-Audio Studiophile AV-40 Active Studio speakers with built in amp
  
  
  These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
  
  
  I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
  
  
  
• Audio source: laptop.
  
• Audio type: music, mostly metal, some IDM, some hip-hop.
  
• Willing to buy used: yes.
  
• Budget: ideally <$150, the lower the better.
  
  
  
  Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
  
  
  
• Syba USB DAC
  
• Nuforce Icon UDAC-3
  
• Modi USB
  
• Fiio E10
  
• Audioengine D1
  
• DAC destroyer
  
  
  
  
  PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
  

An amplifier (or power amplifier) will help power your speakers if they are passive speakers. If your speakers are active/powered they have their own power supply and built-in amplifier. A receiver is basically a power amplifier with a built-in radio tuner.

For an phono preamplifier you could check the Art DJPre II. It fits your budget. Also I only checked Amazon so you might want to see if you can find it cheaper elsewhere - prices seem to vary a lot on that one for some reason.

Your next decision should probably be whether to buy passive or active speakers. With active speakers you can skip the power amp/receiver and hook them straight up to the phono preamp, but the prices are usually a little higher than passive speakers for the same quality. Also there generally seems to be a better selection in different price ranges when it comes to passive speakers.

As for speakers - anything you might save from your preamp/amp budget I'd move over to your speaker budget. That's where the sound comes out and is often where you will see (well.. hear) the greatest improvement in sound quality.

You could also skip the external preamp and go for an amp like this Denon which has a built-in phono preamp.

I bought a cheap DUAL Headunit from Walmart and it was absolute shit. It was way too bright, no way to adjust brightness or color. The bluetooth wouldn't pick up a signal half the time. It felt cheap. And there was no way to display the time while listening to music. I actually uninstalled it and returned it back to Walmart. Went to Best Buy to look at what they had since I could actually play around with those before buying and installing. Found this guy: https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMMBT315U-Digital-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B0186TTQUG (I bought it on Amazon because Best Buy wouldn't price match and it was cheaper). I love it! I can color match to my Jeep's dashboard lights to make it look almost stock. I can adjust brightness and dim it at night so it's not distracting. It has great bluetooth and the display screens are clear and make sense while providing all the info I need. I am extremely happy with this unit! I like my cars looking as close to stock as possible so this headunit did the job very well

2 max would probably work well in your situation.

an amplifier is not suggested you have some very strong signals and you could end up over amplifying the signal.

An 8 port distribution amp might be good if you have man rooms to setup with tvs... the fewer the ports the stronger the amp.. an 8 port is relatively weak but should be good to get signal to many rooms

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B002M1EPL0/

as you can see it is only 4.5db increase per port

If you only have 2-3 rooms then try a regular splitter

if you wanted you could probably get a 5 foot extension to that mast.. if needed. maybe some steel fence post at home depot or lowes and then drive a bolt through it to secure it.

VHF is an issue though you need Fox for NASCAR, NFL, Baseball, MasterChef, Hells Kitchen.... heh 7 is high vhf but i found unless you are getting good signal a full sized VHF antenna is often needed even to get the High VHF... its just the way it is because longer dipoles capture more signal.

good luck to you.. you should have a good lineup

Is 700CAD ~$1000 USD? It seems like you can afford a stereo amp $150, sub amp $200, Wiring (Big 3 & power leads) $100, two subs to fit on passenger floor wells, $250+. With the rest you could get a new head unit and extras you'll need.

OK, so you have like $500. In this case the 4-channel is a good idea, but you'll need the right subs with it, and the prefab looks expensive. I'd suggest a Pioneer flat sub. This is a good bargain 4 channel which I like because it has a sub remote for the 3/4 channel plus a built in temp & volt meter. Also that MB Quartz is a good budget amp, I have a similar 5 ch version. For your budget, get a sealed sub because a small vented sub sucks, and you can add a 2nd sealed in the other foot well later pretty easily.

I can try to take pictures. It might be a couple days, since I probably don't want to disassemble it tonight when I get home later, and it'll already be dark out.

Anyway, I have this amp. It has a Bluetooth receiver directly in it, so that's just what I connect my phone to. It was pretty easy to follow the wiring diagram and unwind the stock speaker wire from the old stereo adapter into this.

Once I had the new harness all wired up, underneath the steering wheel (in a 98 TJ, at least) is a plastic panel that's 3-4 screws to come undone. It slides off to reveal a metal panel that protects the underside of the steering wheel, which is another 4-6 screws, I think. With that off, I played with the steering column to make sure all the moving elements were self contained, and then zip tied the amp to the bottom of the column itself.

Screwing in the metal plate secured it pretty thoroughly and the whole thing is invisible behind the plastic cover plate (I was able to run the wires behind the dash from where the stereo used to be and it comes with a wired remote which I ran in the opposite direction (it sits on the top of my dash center column, by the middle fan vents, but that was easier to put there since I have a big gap where the old stereo used to be).

The remote's buttons are big and squishy, which makes it super easy to control the volume and playing. For more detailed controls, I have the phone mounted in the spot where the old stereo was, and I can either use voice controls or pick it up if I need to.

I upgraded the speakers (fronts and in the soundbar) at the same time and it puts out more power than I need. I'd be a bit worried about it blowing stock speakers on my 98.

This amp is designed for a boat, so if you want to connect a standard car stereo head unit, you need to convert those wires to RCA inputs, which is doable, but you could probably find a more traditional car amp that supports Bluetooth if you looked around.

I recently overhauled my sound system in my '10 Civic SI because either the stock HU or amp was going out, and the stock sub gave out. I tried my best to stay budget friendly and I'm more than happy with my setup.

AMP I got from a friend as an open box unit, for $80.

Front and rear Speakers $40x2, came with mounting hardware and wires = $80 total.

Head unit
$70, I think the hardware for install was an additional 30$ = $100 total.

Sub Best buy has it on sale for $50.

Sealed Enclosure $30 from amazon.


That's $340 total and I did the install myself. I'm not too big into car audio all of the items I choose were due to customer reviews/ decent price point. Hope this helps.









Edit: Just realized, you referring to digital screen unit meaning a double din. Ignore all that, at that budget just get a double din and better door speakers, and upgrade as you go.

I think he may mean in addition to the n7, not necessarily instead of.

I personally think you may be able to make this work. Ive always wanted to do it also, but there have been a few things stopping me.

1. Volume control. I'm not sure i want to try to reach the tiny buttons, or mess with a touchscreen widget to change my volume.
   
   
2. FM radio. I listen to mostly content from my phone, but occasionally its nice just to have the radio on for around town trips, morning shows, etc. It gets tiring having to choose something to listen to every single time you get in your car.
   
   
3. Powering the tablet, and making sure its on and doing what you want it to do all the time will require some messing around. Not a dealbreaker, but it may be a headache.
   
   Also, ive had that small clarion amp before. Ive also had the Alpine version and i currently have a small RF amp (or 4Ch version) I think the RF is by far the best amp out of the three. I have the 2ch version running my fronts, and it has been great for over 2 years now. Easily worth the extra money.
   
   Edit: Also, i havent tried one yet, but these tiny amps are supposed to be cool too... if you can find one:
   http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_71775_NVX-MVPA4.html
   

Don't wait! Get a cheap used Android phone and a phone holder and make sure you get this gadget:

Wireless Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio with Bluetooth Auto-Reconnect

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G57CWZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is the only one that reconnects automatically to your phone without the need to turn on manually; it requires a USB port and aux jack.

I was planning to sell my 2013 Fiat 500, but this gadget convinced me not to. Thousands of dollars saved.

Caveat - I do have a pay as you go chip on this android phone so that it refreshes traffic and selects the best route, but will work as a great Spotify deck if you park garage has a good wifi signal that allows the phone to download music.

BTW the receiver also works with my iPhone, so you can stream music from it.

- Dominator Platinum is a great choice if you have the budget for it (it looks like you do)

- I'd get a beefy air cooler like this one. AIOs are nice to have and look at but in the end, air cooling will work best.

- Don't bother with a sound card. If you want good audio, invest in a dac amplifier like this one.

Finally, I think you'd have a lot of fun putting this kick-ass build together yourself. Not everyone has the time or the expertise, but if you have the time and patience, I think you'd find it rewarding.

> I run a Pioneer Excelon double DIN model, and the variable HP & LP slopes & frequencies, along with the 13 band EQ are quite handy.

I assume you mean the Kenwood Excelon, which I was actually looking at and is about the same price. The Pioneer has all the same features, including HP, LP, and EQ, so I figured I would just go with the one that looked better which is Pioneer.

>I can't speak for the Hifonics brand

I was looking at some other sub amps, what do you think about the Precision Power ICE2600.1D?

As for the wire, is 4 gauge not enough for running 600 watts? I'm a bit lost on all of the things I would need if I would try to put a kit together like that.

> build the port large enough to keep down port velocity

Yea I tried to keep velocity below 25 m/s and will for sure make sure the actual interior volume is 1.25ft3.

> No amp is listed for the components

I'm planning to get this amp for the components. It does 95w at 2ohms but doesn't have a hpf, so would using a hpf on the HU be ok for that?

Thanks for the help, it's greatly appreciated!

it definitely behaves like its capacitive.

I don't know of any specific places for 4100 screen experience. I suggest you search Amazon's reviews (4.3/5 stars) on resistive:

http://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B00SKJPKGW/ref=cm_cr_dp_srch?filterByKeyword=resistive&search-alias=community-reviews

• Don't let the resistive touch screen fool you. It's very responsive considering it's not capacitive. Sure, you can tell a difference but it's not so bad that you'll want to shoot yourself. For instance, scrolling requires a minimal amount of pressure. And on the plus side, you can wear gloves and still operate this unit if you're in cold climate.
  
• Screen is very responsive for a resistive unit.
  
• The resistive touch-screen works great. I like the pinch-n-zoom functionality in the Maps screen of Android Auto.
  
  Also this reddit review:
  
  https://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/320o9x/my_not_so_short_review_of_android_auto_in_the/
  
  The removable screen is awesome, worth getting the cheaper 4100 for it instead of the capacitive non-removable screen on the 8100.

Coaxial speakers just means that the tweeter and woofer and built together, so you only have to install one thing. Components come with an external crossover(sends bass+mid to woofer, high end to tweeters) that everything connects to, which lets you place the separated tweeters in a separate location.

Dunno if your particular focus has seperate tweeters, or coaxial speakers, see if this video is your car. If it is then the size looks like 6"x9", which would be great if you like bass because 6x9 speakers are the next best thing to a dedicated sub-woofer.

Don't see any well-known brands of 6x9 speakers on Halfords, but Amazon.co.uk has some nice looking choices. Like these JBLS, if they will fit.

You'll have to take time to do a little research, to know what the exact size is. Or rip off the door panel and break-out the tape-measure.

I really don't know enough about sound to know what 1, 2, or 4 ohm subs really mean, my friend just said 2 ohm is easy, sounds good, and is pretty cheap. Is there an LOC you'd recommend for a pretty low price as well?

 

I also saw this precision power amp for not much more, would this be a better purchase?

In terms of a DAC, I run a Schiit Fulla 2, which is an amp/dac combo for 100USD. I know Fiio also offers something similar at the same price.

I have my computer hooked up via USB to my Fulla. The DAC output (on the back) is then connected to my '86 RX-9V that I got for 200 bucks, and I use the 1/4" jack that is already on the Fulla for my headphones since it also functions as an amp.

There are a lot if low-budget USB DACs out there that you could hook to the receiver. You will need to invest in cables and such though, so it's hard for me to say if the way I did it was the cheapest way, but for the performance I get, I feel like I have spent a relatively small amount.

You could easily get an old receiver for around 50 bucks, then spend the other 50 on a small entry-level USB DAC (like this or this), and hook them up with a 3.5mm to RCA (or whatever termination you need for whatever receiver you get). It won't be the most powerful or best sounding system in the world, but it will get the job done.

I have a Kenwood KMMBT315U I got off Amazon. Everything is good except the direct sunlight point, which sucks, but for $80 I'm pretty happy with it. It doesn't have a crazy light show display but you can change the backlight colors, which I really like.

Edit: Another nice thing is it should plug right into the existing Kenwood plug you have in there, no rewiring. While not a huge deal, it makes it into a 5 minute job to swap over

I've had good luck with the Rockford Fosgate Punch series of co-ax's. I also strongly recommend applying a small amount sound deadener (Noico from Amazon is good and cheap) around the area you are installing the speakers and a foam fast ring kit around each speaker. I have went this route on a couple of factory systems and it made a major improvement - all of these upgrades should be within your stated budget.

Links:

Speakers
Deadener
Fast rings

you will need this kit
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-95-7521B-Double-Installation-2012-Up/dp/B00AGOFJZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480360880&sr=8-1&keywords=95-7521

this harness
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-Electronics-70-7903-Harness-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEVXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480360922&sr=8-1&keywords=70-7903

this antenna adapter if you still listen to FM
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-Electronics-40-HD10-Aftermarket-Receivers/dp/B000K4YOCG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480360953&sr=8-1&keywords=40-hd10

as for radios with navigation built in. they start around $550 and some will have the ability to do apple carplay or android auto. as for satellite radio, most do not come with it BUT they have the ability to have it added easily. usually a $35 to $50 tuner which can be connected to most aftermarket stereos. then you just transfer account to new sirius tuner ID and you are good to go.

https://www.amazon.com/SiriusXM-SXV300v1-Connect-Vehicle-Satellite/dp/B00NJTO4CY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480361234&sr=8-2&keywords=sirius+xm+tuner

i hope this helps a bit

Hey guys,

I currently own an Audio-Technica AT-LP120USBHC, and I'm looking for an amplifier and two passive speakers to pair it with.

I've gotten a lot of help from the user sharkamino, and I've narrowed it down to a few choices, but I'd like to hear about which of these should I go for and why:




Speakers:


1.Polk T15 Black - 155€ or $173


2.Tannoy Eclipse 1 - 159€ or $178


3.Cambridge Audio SX-50 - 170,99€ or $191


4.SONY SS-CS5 - 175€ or $195


5.MONITOR AUDIO MR1 - 180€ or $201


Receivers:


1.YAMAHA A-S201 B - 180,90€ or $202


2.PIONEER - Stereo Amplifier - A-10-K - 188,99€ or $211


3.CAMBRIDGE AUDIO TOPAZ AM5 - 195€ or $218


4.SONY STR-DH190 - 199,99€ or $222 or


5.YAMAHA Stereo Amplifier R-S202D - 206€ or $230


6.DENON Amplifier PMA-520AE - 208€ or $232


7.PIONEER-A-10AE-S/B Integrated Amplifier - 211€ or $236


8.ONKYO Amplifier A-9010 Black/Silver - 217,99€ or $243


9.PIONEER SX-10AE-B Stereo Receiver 100W/BT - 218€ or $243



Even though the links above are from Amazon US and UK, the prices are from a local store in Portugal, where I intend on buying the setup.

Thanks in advance guys,

Have a good weekend!

hahaha wow okay, I'm looking for more of a balanced system, but I do want the bass to be noticeable for sure. My total budget is looking to be around 500-550. that is including buying a box and all the connecting wires. I know people who can help install it so no money there. I play much more dubstep and rap, basically nothing else. This is the box I plan to get.

This isn’t a solution necessarily, but it may fix your speakerphone problem. I used to use AUX in my car before I found this little Bluetooth-AUX receiver. Plugs into both a cig lighter and your AUX, then every time you turn your car on your phone automatically connects to Bluetooth. Pretty handy, and works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vsGIDbCXA7R6Z


I’d recommend also picking this up if you’re interested - it silences the weird static noise the BT receiver produces through the car speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4tGIDbQDWD06Q

Are you going to have rear speakers? or just fronts? and run 3 channel amp?

If you are going to have front and rear speakers. I would go with the following set up.

amp https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk-m9005d-car-amplifier

and

sub https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX3002-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=sr_1_40?crid=2GIYJPUPWZ95Y&keywords=10+loaded+subwoofer+box&qid=1555076614&s=gateway&sprefix=10+loaded+subwoofer+box%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-40

​

My reasoning is this. If you want space, this sub box can be placed firing down, and you can put stuff on top of it. And also by going with a 5 channel amp you can just need 1 power wire from the battery to the 1 amp, with your set up your going to have to split that wire, one to the amp and one to the powered sub. And this still meets your budget. you can probably find a cheaper 5 channel amp, or a 3 channel if your going that route. but skar is awesome for the price and the punch. i've been really happy with my skar amps.

These are my recommendations. Are your 6x9's old? Because, they are cheap speakers, but they still shouldn't distort like that.
Some good 6x9
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN2TGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1398354095&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Some good 6.5" rounds
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN2TF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1398354234&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Finally you said you wanted to maybe add a second 15"? This amp has 2 channels, so you could add the second some at any time. As for knowing if it is 2 or 4 ohms, you can use a digital multi meter (dmm) to measure the impedance in the sub. This is a 2 ohm amp, but a 4 ohm isn't hard to find.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CYL7LW/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1&qid=1398354444&sr=8-12
I hope this helps!

Are you purposefully picking the shitiest stuff you can find? EVERYONE knows that BOSS is the absolute shittiest piece of junk to vomit in car audio. I genuinely wouldn't wipe my ass with BOSS audio.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0186TTQUG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473308397&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=kenwood+bluetooth+car+stereo&dpPl=1&dpID=41IYA7DDMxL&ref=plSrch

Or! If you want to spend more than $80 but less than a new cell phone you can get something like:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kenwood-6-2-cd-dvd-built-in-bluetooth-apple-ipod-and-satellite-radio-ready-in-dash-deck-black/4792400.p?id=1219822135208&skuId=4792400

And if your factory head unit was nicer than the last one I posted, please tell me what car because if it's nicer than that but doesn't have Bluetooth or USB, I need to know.

Depends on what you want, I have a 16' SmokerCraft and didn't really want to install speakers into the sides or floors because in most locations it would take up the little storage space I have.

I ended up ordering two pairs of these speakers and mounting them on the deck (two on the stern deck on each side, and one on the bow in deck in the center)

Then I mounted this Kenwood bluetooth amplifier under my dash and installed the remote on my dash (I actually made a custom dash to rearrange gauges and support a Lowrance unit, so I added a spot for the remote)


I don't have any good pictures that show the speakers, so I will try and snag one or two when I get home from work if you'd like. This setup has been awesome so far and for the price of the speakers they actually sound perfect (for the use case). You won't be able to hear very well while driving, but for trolling/floating/etc. they are perfect

Not sure about just straight cables, but there are piles of usb powered DACs with RCA outputs. Really depends on your budget. uDAC3 is good, Audioengine D1 is good, Fiio E10K is good.

If your'e looking at portable amps I recommend this.

Edit: Forgot that it was a two piece set, this is the portable that goes a long with it, they work perfectly hand in hand.

Well here's the plan.. plan to just have front speakers atm, since I'm told rear aren't necessary with a subwoofer. Plan to get these speakers powered by this powerpack. I drive a 99 camry sedan, but really don't want to have to replace the alternator from all of this.. maybe I should find a less powerful subwoofer or just go with the 500w RMS? All I want is some good clean bass for some electronic toons. Also, was planning on getting a ported box

If you can, find someone that sells Hybrid gear and take a demo of the imagine, unity and clarus lines (it's my favorite sound atm).

While there, demo with and without a solid 4ch amp. It looks like without jbl, it's a fairly basic affair to swap speakers out.

I do agree that without an amp, your sound upgrade won't be great as that factory deck might put out about 10w a channel rms. I was actually torn on whether to just recommend trying a micro amp first or go all in. I decided to go all in, so this would be what I'd spend $1000 on:

HAT Unity 6.5 comp $430

Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 $160

at least front door sound treatment $60

So that's $650 and leaves you room for install labor plus a small amp kit for power/ground. That should be a solid set up with good midbass and a fair amount of musical accuracy, too. Heck, you could step up to the clarus line (I prefer that of the three mentioned) and only be at $850

Super, thank you also for confirming the speaker is a 8 ohm 3 watt.

For an L-Pad I am looking at this: https://www.ebay.com/p/Eminence-Overspx-lpad-L-pad-Assembly-Kit/1500346869

Basically I like the fact it is more flush mount. Now to find some really nice 4 ohm speakers... Maybe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Haha, here's the box link. I'll check out that other sub and edit this in a second.

Edit: I'll think on choosing between these two or the 8" linked above until Saturday when I get my paycheck and will have enough for all of this to be ordered at once. Honestly I just don't know enough to come to a conclusion, I guess I'll compare the frequency and such specs? Reviews for both are great and I know the JBL brand (never owned, just recognize), which I've heard is important in car audio (the brand).

Sorry, I should have clarified. You're looking at the sub! It's below the amp, which is mounted on a carpet covered board. The sub fires downward. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/?coliid=I24Y5KGVWITD0G

And price... sheesh. I spent ~$380 for the installers to do a shitty job, then had them give me a free amp kit, so that was a nice "savings". I already had the amp & LC2i from my previous car. Solid state relay and resistor was $130 total on mouser.com. Plus various wire terminals, heat skrink connectors, fuses, velcro, black sub box carpeting... all small things but they add up.

My advice would be to do lots of research: learn how to properly splice wires, where to place fuses, know how to test that your circuits are working as expected with a multimeter, yada yada... OR find a car audio installer you can trust that's worked on model 3's before. If you want to DIY, I suggest reading the thread I linked to. Lots of people far smarter than me.

Those MA bronze's are very nice speakers but the KEF's are nicer still. Both would work well for music and home theater viewing although the KEF's will likely be more difficult to find a matching center speaker for later if thats a consideration.

I wouldnt touch non working electronics unless you know how to fix them. That particular one is close to 20 years old. Any of these would be great for around 150...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Denon-PMA520AE-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B007Y3OBAQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502723835&sr=8-3&keywords=integrated+amplifier

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pioneer-10-K-50W-Stereo-Amplifier/dp/B0082JFKPQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1502723835&sr=8-6&keywords=integrated+amplifier

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Marantz-PM5005-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LUKN2C2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502723835&sr=8-1&keywords=integrated+amplifier

• Maestro RR that handles communicating with steering wheel controls and CAN bus (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E4W1644/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• TO2 harness to tie the Maestro RR into existing wire harnesses (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K02TMKQ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• sTO2 to retain factory GPS and Siruis XM antennas (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• PAC USB-TY1 to retain factory USB (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0YJ49O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Metra 40-LX11 antenna adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Sirius XM tuner is OPTIONAL! You don't need this if you don't subscribe. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJTO4CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Metra 99-8251B dash kit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BTSW5YA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1)
  
  And then obviously pick a head unit. We've had good luck with the Kenwood DNX695S, which has navigation, wired android auto, apple car play, and plays DVDs. It looks like a lot of parts but the only wire connecting you'll need to do is with the various harnesses listed above, and there's good documentation on what goes where. Once you get your harness all connected up, everything just plugs right into your existing Toyota harnesses.

Hi! I just recently discovered that there is better quality music than what I had been experiencing and I'm hoping to start out a nice setup. I was thinking of buying the Nuforce uDac3 (link below if you are not familiar with it) and I was wondering if this is enough. I have a few pairs of nice headphones (audio Technica ath-900x, Sennheiser hd598, brainwavs hm5). Do I need to buy new headphones/speakers too? I mainly listen to rap/hip-hop with an emphasis on Eminem​.

NuForce uDAC3 Mobile USB DAC and Headphone Amplifier (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FG9MJ6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MUq6ybMNCCGAQ

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

A bandpass/ported box will give you more rumble and boom while a sealed box will give you a more clean knock. After owning a bandpass box for two years, switching over to sealed was a great choice. Recently bought this sealed box and couldn't be happier.

​

BBox apparently makes a good bandpass box as well, however can't say I've tried.

So I bought a used 2008 pontoon last year, and decided to do a budget update to get her ready for the new season. Tried to keep it under $1000, but the last minute decision to get a new Bimini put the project over that.
For those curious, here are the materials I used.
60' of .030 black aluminum paneling: $295 from Pontoonfence.com

Nav Lights:$20
Docking Lights: $30. I'm keeping an eye on these. Some reviews complained of them not being waterproof. I ran a bead of silicone around the lens and where the wires enter the body. Hoping they hold up.
Waterproof LED Strip Lights $40 for two sets. I'm really happy with these.
LED RGB control wires $9

Polk DB651 6.5" Speakers $118 ($59/pair)
Kenwood Marine Bluetooth Amplifier $135
Pyle Marine speaker wire $9
Engine Parts (Plugs, Impeller, Lube) $40
Power wash rental: $30

Misc expenses (mounting tape, nonskid tape, screws, bolts, etc) ~$100

Replacement Bimini and boot from restorepontoon.com $219
Total: $1,045

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_46055_JBL_GX962.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-e13MeT3gIVT1qGCh0gdAIxEAQYCSABEgL0QPD_BwE

Above is gx series. A little over 2 ohms but 94 dB so should be ok.

JBL GTO939 GTO Series 6x9" 300W 3 Way Black Car Coaxial Audio Speakers Stereo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KN2TGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mYLYBbDP4CDHQ

3 way gto series which is similar to what I had, I had the 2 ways as I felt that 3way can just be marketing talk at this level. There may be better deals out there.

I can't recall but I may have replaced the dash speakers with gtos as well, been a couple years.

Hi, I need some advice with hooking up speakers to my turntable.

I'm very new to all of this and I've only brought my turntable so far. This is because I'm not entirely sure whether I need to buy a preamp and an integrated amplifier, or just one of these. I think I need the integrated amplifier regardless, and the preamp will make it sound even better but is optional. Am I correct with this or not at all?

Anyway, the turntable I have is a Denon-DP300F and I'm looking to buy a pair of Misson LX-2 speakers. I was also looking to buy a
Denon PMA520AE Integrated Amplifier with a Pro-Ject Phono Box MM Amplifier - where I would connect the two red and white cables from my turntable into the Pro-Ject Phono Box preamp, then connect that to the integrated amplifier, and then connect it to the speakers. Excuse my most likely horrible wording/terms.

Is this the correct way to go about this? Is the preamp I'm looking at buying optional or compulsory? Do I just need the integrated amplifier and not the phono box preamp?

I really, really appreciate any feedback on this because I've been reading this sub and researching everywhere and I can't find a definite answer that makes me confident about making these purchases. Thank you!

I am looking for a DAC/amp to pair with my new AKG K702 cans. Would love to stay at the 100 euro range - give or take 20€.

I have a couple of candidates - which one would be the best to go with the K702, if any? Any other recommendations?

FiiO E10K (Link)

Nuforce uDAC3 (Link)

AudioQuest - DragonFly USB DAC (Link)

Procaster DAC-03 (Link) - sorry, the manufacturer and seller is Finnish. Specs are as follows:

• 24-bit / 96 kHz audio circuit
  
  
• Output power: 350 mW @32 Ohm
  
  
• Impedance: 16-300 Ohm
  
• THD+N: 0,009 @ 1 kHz
  
  
• Signal-to-noise ratio: 110 dB
  
  
• Input: Micro-USB, for audio and power
  
  
• Output: RCA, 3.5mm
  
  

Thanks very much for the help, though I have to admit i didn't fully understand but I'm sure the techs you suggested will know the ins and outs. I think I've found a deck I like, what do you think?

I've got a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon turntable hooked up to a Denon PMA720AE amplifier and Q Acoustics 3020 speakers. All in all, including a few other bits and bobs, the set up cost me like £750.

But, using slightly lower models of the same manufacturers you could hit that £500 mark:

• Pro-Ject Elemental
  
• Denon PMA520AE
  
• Q Acoustics 3020
  
  Obviously you're gonna wanna shop around a bit yourself and find what looks best to you as i'm no expert in the variety of equipment that is available, but I can say, for the time being at least, i'm very happy with my setup.

I bought a pair of these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bzVDzbKZAHRXN

And something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00T9DX538/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tAVDzbFYVYR9R

Then covered them with speaker grills.

Works really well and gets decent sound while not costing too much money and it was way easier to setup than tearing apart old computer speakers.

I never put in a sub nor did I fully think it was worthwhile.

I have two FJs, both with upgraded audio. The Kenwood Excelon DNX695S is my favorite head unit of the two, the other is a Kenwood Excelon DNX892. The DNX659S is quite a bit cheaper, has a great layout, no mechanical door hiding the CD/DVD player, and still has the OBDII connection to monitor engine stuff, which is cool. also two inputs for front and rear cameras.

Keep in mind you will need a few additional components to fully integrate, they aren't 100% needed, but make it better: Maestro ADS-MRR to use your steering wheel controls, SiriusXM SXV300v1 if you want Satellite Radio, and a plastic trim piece to complete the bezel around the new radio.

I have a Wicked CAS Stage 2 speaker and subwoofer system in one, and stock speakers in the other. Both sound great with the new head units, but the Wicked system with the dual subwoofers is really nice. I don't have a sub in the second FJ, and miss it after driving the first.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F946YVX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A32QR6D7S73KI&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NJTO4CY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/Maestro-ADS-MRR-Universal-Replacement-Interface/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=pd_bxgy_504_img_2/134-9197268-1169858?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00E4W1644&pd_rd_r=9886b991-360d-4091-80c8-1d4c8857e87e&pd_rd_w=eHBMr&pd_rd_wg=XXeXa&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=8JEA44SVJBBDNT7YZM62&psc=1&refRID=8JEA44SVJBBDNT7YZM62

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K52CY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://shop.wickedcas.com/fj-cruiser-stage2-package-audio-upgrade-stereo-stage-2.html?category_id=3

Both turntables have a built in phono preamps with both RCA analog and USB digital outputs.

Pass on the LP120X and Sony. A small step up from the LP120X is the Audio Technica LP5 for £10 more.

Consider first looking for a used stereo or AV recevier and used speakers.

The Sony STRDH190 or most any other receiver or integrated amp with work with just about any turntable. A better stereo receiver option is the Pioneer SX-10AE. Or integrated amps, no radio tuner, Cambridge Audio TOPAZ AM5, Onkyo A9010, Pioneer A-10, Marantz PM5005, Denon PMA520AE.

For headphone use, get a dedicated headphone amp. An inexpensive stater one is the Sabaj Audio PHA2. I don't know that else may be avialble in the UK. Try r/HeadphoneAdvice and state UK location.

Speakers on sale: Q Acoustics 3020 or Wharfedale DIAMOND 220. Or what is your speaker budget?

Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.

Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Introduction to Audio Components • What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice

Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.

Ok, I think I'm reading it right..

Would this Be a good ported box, as far as dimensions go?

Or would it be better to get a vented box?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ADBa8vL&ref=plSrch

I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.

For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51hYLJphMpL&ref=plSrch

The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.

Hit me up with any questions

I have the same setup, I also use a NuForce AMP/DAC that I can recommend right back at ya 😊

I saved up and got this: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4100NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B00SKJPKGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463682374&sr=8-1&keywords=4100nex

Found an open box for $375. Took me like 2.5 months to save up $400.

Fronts:

• CT Sounds Meso 6.5 components - $140
  
  Rears:
  
  
• CT Sounds Strato 6.5 Coax - $55
  
  That puts you under $200 for the pair
  
  Here's a good head unit option that has plenty of power: Sony MEX-XB100BT - $150. I would recommend installing a 12 gauge power and ground lead ($15) for this head unit as it is more powerful than most.

So, right now Emotiva have a 10% off sale, which makes the AirMotiv 5 tremendous value, at $404. Link here.

While probably not my personal first choice, an amp/DAC combo that does what you want is the Fiio E9/E7. While the new E9K/E17 combo is probably "better", there's a $100 difference that brings it out of your price range. Link here - see "frequently bought together".

Finally, good speakers deserve to be placed properly - if you're planning on using them in front of a computer. If you're tight for floor space, something like these will do nicely, but if you have the floor space, something like this will probably be better.

Edit: Strike my recommendation for the E9. Its 10 ohm output impedance makes it a poor match for your HD 598's. Thing is: There are very few products in a reasonable price range that allows you to use them both as a headphone amp and a DAC - the next step up is the Nuforce Icon HDP, but that's $350.

Spend $10 more and get this: http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B002M1EPL0

I have it, it works great. Easy as pie.

Awesome, thank you. I'm sold on the HO. Currently looking at possibly using one of these boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/E10SV-10-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

or

https://www.amazon.com/Belva-10-inch-Subwoofer-Prelined-Polyfil/dp/B00CBO0HGK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I'll answer most of your questions. The system you are building is actually made to be loud not SQ.

Crutchfield doesn't have your car listed yet, so I won't recommend a speaker unless you are into modifying your door to make them fit. Out of the two speakers you are looking at I would go with the GTO629 just because of the tweeter and the higher sensitivity for the same power.

It will be expensive and loud if you replace all four doors, which I don't recommend. You can get one set of the GTO629 for the front then the 6520 for the rear.

I use this Noico product on my doors and rear and I think it works fine for budget installs. You'll have plenty leftover for the trunk and trunk lid especially if you have a subwoofer back there.

Depending on the kind of music you listen to the speakers alone might be enough, but people really like bass in their cars so I would recommend a subwoofer. Those speakers will not be able to produce sub bass, so you'll be missing out. I use this Pioneer sub and it does a good job of handling sub bass while laying flat and you can put stuff on top of it.

Tie it all together with this NVX amp and you'll be set.

I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

I got all my harnesses from David at ae64.com. I emailed him with the details of what I was planning to do and he responded with everything I needed. It was nice to get them all from one place.

I paired his harnesses with a Maestro RR to retain the backup cam and steering wheel controls.

Remember, if you email David, he will give you a list customized to your application, but here is what I used:

Ordered from ae64.com

• 10 & 6 pin "forward" harness with plain speaker wires
  
• 28-pin aux retention harness with 3 plain SWC wires & VSS & reverse gear & parking brake leads
  
• Add male RCA and 6V power lead to 28-pin harness (to retain OEM rear camera)
  
• AX-SUBUSB2
  
• Alternate AM/FM+XM antenna feeder cord (to retain shark fin antenna)
  
  Ordered from Amazon:
  
  
• [MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch]
  (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ)
  
• SiriusXM SXV300v1
  
  Ordered from eBay:
  
  
• Maestro RR
  
  
  Hope this helps

They're great for how I use them. They are shorter in length so there is a little loss in range. They aren't bass heavy, mostly mid and upper. That's perfect for me since I have a sub to do the heavy lifting.

Full disclosure, I also have an amp in my deck that makes them louder than stock.

To play it like a regular bluetooth aux you need:

1. RCA to 3.5mm (both Male) adapter. I used this one.
   
   
2. A bluetooth audio receiver, like this one which comes with an extra USB jack for phone charging.

Picked up a PPI ICE2600.1 amp for the sub that's going in my trailer, to go under the cabinet.

I noticed that the ICE series isn't on the r/CarAV list of recommended gear. Was it a bad purchase? I had a PPI amp for my Focal PolyKevlar components back in the day.... their prices seem to have dropped a lot.

I wanted to use my JBL 1200.1 that I used to absolutely LOVE for its power and value when I got it in 2003... unfortunately, it powers on but doesn't output sound. Anyone know if there's a good, inexpensive repair shop in the East SF Bay?

I'm rolling on a 2017 STI base and from all the research I did when I was looking into making my sound system not sound like garbage in my car, seems the general consensus has been that these cars all have terrible head units, the stock speakers actually aren't bad (the head unit is just that bad that it makes them sound bad), and that the subaru kicker speakers are far too much money for what they deliver.

Oem audio plus even keeps the stock speakers in their solution. They do replace the tweeters though and obviously add a sub.

A simple under seat subwoofer seems a far better value to get bass into the system. You can even get a kicker for $200.

I'd ultimately suggest replacing the head unit along with getting a simple under seat subwoofer for an more even and overall solution.

I went with the Pioneer 4200NEX and a Cerwin-Vega under seat subwoofer.

Sounds pretty damn good and I now have android auto (and apple carplay if you're into that).

I paid $30 to not have that problem and gain other benefits.

The primary issue with the OEM subwoofers is the price. You can pay $3-500 for a new one, and they definitely aren't worth that unless you can find one used.

I installed a Kicker 11HS8 in my 2015 WRX under the passenger seat and it worked great! That car had the base audio system and just adding that sub made a big difference (although I later upgraded the other speakers too).

Kenwood KMM-BT315U.

Its a media receiver meaning it doesn't play CD's.
Amazon right now for $77.


Wiring Harness Metra 70-1761 $5


Dash Kit Scosche $12

$94 before taxes.

Watch This; if you're not comfortable doing that please get it professionally installed (shop around, $80 max for labor on an install like this).

You can find Pioneer BT receivers for less also, I just like the way Kenwood looks.

The dash kit I listed will only fit a single din radio, for double din you'll need the metra kit.

Kenwood mono amp

Skar VD12

Box

Amp Kit

$200 can be done, 350w amp for a 500w sub is fine if you set the gains correctly. An oxygen free copper amp kit for a few dollars more is a good investment... but this one will work.

I use this
I have the same headphones as you do, they drive them perfectly fine.

There was someone on /r/cordcutters that did what you want using a bunch of amplified splitters. Example:

• http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B002M1EPL0/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463589990&sr=8-6&keywords=distribution+amplifier
  
  So you would feed your antenna into one of the amplified splitters and then feed the outputs into as many of the amplified splitters as required, for up to 64 outputs.
  
  Having all those separate amplifiers isn't very reliable and would be hard to troubleshoot if one of the amplifiers failed. You would also have to find up to 9 power plugs. I would suggest you do it a bit more like the professionals do it...
  
  The idea is that you have a single more powerful amplifier attached to the antenna. Then you follow it with passive (unamplified) 8 way or even 16 way splitters. Two levels of 8 way splitters would be a loss of 11 dB + 11 dB = 22 dB so you would need at least that much gain to overcome the splitter loss. If the signals are not really strong in your area you could just get a 30 dB amp and not worry further. Here is an example of a name brand adjustable gain 35 dB amp:
  
  
• https://www.markertek.com/product/aca-35-1000/rf-system-distribution-amplifier
  
  ... and the section I found it in:
  
  
• http://www.markertek.com/category/RF-Distribution-Amplifiers
  
  What I described is a "star" topology where you need to run a separate cable to each location. There is a kind of "bus" topology available where each splitter only takes a small amount of signal off the cable. That takes more design and I have no experience with such systems.
  
  Edit: Minor clarification.

I just want a basic system up and running and not looking to put a lot of money into the amp. Both had good ratings on Amazon. Can you recommend something better in the sub-$150 range? I was considering this Kenwood but thought it might be underpowered for the setup. https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Compact-Automotive-Marine-Amplifier/dp/B00UTXQL74/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491949249&sr=1-7&keywords=class+d+4+channel+amplifier+car&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011

Thoughts?

sony head unit

the thing says about 47 rms, its a built-in class d amp.

also those polk are like 120 rms for the pair. (60 apeice)

if i could tip you in a bit, before i even noticed that only one channel was working, i was usually doing highway driving, going over 60, and with a softtop, it was always alot of road noise. with that being said, i was usually always using my headunit at 44- 48 out of 50 on the volume. you think the crap was clipping and i burned out all 4 of the speakers.

thanks for the help again homie.

If you want android auto. this unit is great and the price is on point. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00SKJPKGW/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&condition=refurbished

The older dell soundbars that attached under monitors had decent sound. I had used one on my old bartop. New ones don't have AC adapter like the old ones. Run off USB power.

Otherwise it's an amp and speakers like these. I used these in my full size arcade build:
4in Speakers and


Amp

Morel Maximo component set - $150 shipped

Kenwood ddx374BT - $220 shipped. Comes with $40 off the dash kit you might need

Fi Alpha 12 v2 - $180 with the "Dual 2 Xmax" option (absolutely necessary), plus shipping.

Rockford 750.1d - $223 shipped. These are underrated little tanks.

Knukonceptz OFC 4awg kit - $60 shipped.

Other supplies (wood, glue, wire harness) - $70

Total - $903. This would be ideal. However, if you need to skimp on something, you can get these options instead:
Hertz dsk component set - $115

RF p2d2 12" sub - $104

Alpine single din HU with BT - $161

PPI monoblock amp - $132

New total - $642 plus up to $70 for the dash kit, so $712. If you get the PPI amp and RF sub, run it at 4 ohms.

I created a mounting plate for dual speakers and where people are putting buttons you could make speaker holes

https://imgur.com/gallery/I3xQBgU

Got these upgraded speakers they even can mount in the stock location if you just want better quality

BOSS Audio BRS40 50 Watt, 4 Inch,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

One of these?

There's also an older version, the SXV200v1. Not sure what the difference is. Does it matter?

As long as I can get the "Xtra Channels", that woudl be great. My current XM tuner (it's one of the Kenwood KCA-XM100V units, which you slip a "XM mini tuner" inside) doesn't. I was told you needed to get the "SiriusXM" branded ones.

Yes sir, Ram 1500.
I was looking at these for the 5.25" and these for the 6x9. I basically want a tweeter up top since the speakers are so low in the door.

Thank you, so i used that to find a premade box that i may just buy two of. Would this work? Seems like the size sort of matches up.

1. Yes, all you have to do is split the signal. However, you may need a distribution amplifier to overcome the signal loss. Channel Master CM3418 8-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signals
   
   
2. Yes, they can. You don't have to watch the same channel at all. It works just like analog cable, NTSC OTA, or ClearQAM cable. No boxes required.
   
   
3. That's very dependent upon your area. Anything from a rabbit ears attached to a distribution amplifier, to a Channel Master CM 3020, hooked up to a Channel Master CM-7777 Titan 2 Antenna Preamplifier,, mounted to a Channel Master CM 9521A Antenna Rotator.
   
   Go to TV Fool and pull a report for your address. It will tell you what type of setup you need. for your location, and where to point your antenna.

This little beast will push 400 watts and it's super small. I'm running the two channel on a cooler right now and it pounds.

Order this. Less than $5 and it will give your car bluetooth. It turns on and off with the car, super slick.

I use this in my 2011 Outback. Works great. Unlike most the ones on Amazon it powers off with the car and doesn't have an internal battery, so it always connects back up automatically without fail. Only time I've had problems is if I toggle airplane mode on my phone, then I have to unplug it and plug it back in.
Edit: and the 2011 Outback has the same center console layout, so I just leave it plugged into DC and aux in the center and don't think about it.

HomeSpot NFC-enabled Wireless Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio with Bluetooth Auto-Reconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lnclzb257HXDY

This hu features everything you want except nav will be handled by your phone through android auto (better nav anyway). You'll also get a lot better sound out of a quality hu. It's $450 currently but I'm sure sure can find one for like $350 on ebay (probably no warranty on ebay). Hu are one of those things that you keep for years, you may be saving a couple bucks now but you're gonna regret it when it breaks eventually.

If you want an amp, the Fiio E7/E9 Combo is really nice.

If you don't mind spending $100 for an amp ... get one like this instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487092657&sr=8-2&keywords=alpine+amp

https://www.amazon.com/Clarion-XC1410-4-Channel-Class-D-Amplifier/dp/B00B43LKV0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487092715&sr=8-1&keywords=clarion+xc1410

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PBR300X4-4-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T163SY

Those are all so small you can mount them behind the dash, which means you can just hook it right into the factory wire harness speaker leads.

Yeah, you got it. I have two RP3's, one running the Plex media server, with an external 512GB SSD, and the other running RasPlex. They are connected together via the LAN cable. I then have an HDMI-to-RCA adapter. I will run the RCAs to the aux input in my Honda Odyssey minivan. That allows me set that as a source for the rear TV. I also have a nice little Lenovo remote control that the kids can use to navigate.

Since the RP3's also have wifi, I am going to setup Rsync to check for new content from my main media PC in the house and download anything new while connected to the wifi (typically when I am loading the kids into the van, takes waaay too long).

The last piece of the puzzle was enabling it to turn on and off with the ignition, but also do a controlled shutdown so as not to corrupt the SD cards.

I'll be taking pics when I get it all together.

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=bluetooth+receiver+that+turns+on+automatically

In all seriousness though, it does seem like the top two results will do what you want:

one

two

I've got my eye on a weather-resistant amplifier, and replacements for the 4 factory speakers in hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Coodio-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speaker-Iphone/dp/B00HT07QXI

This, an off the shelf USB lighter adaptor and a cassette adapter make any car with a cassette player bluetooth capable for under $15. I don't have any regrets.

Without iDrive there is no audio over Bluetooth. You'll need a Bluetooth adapter. That particular one is powered by USB and then plugs in the AUX jack under the armrest. Just set your head unit to AUX and you're good to go. I've been using one since October of '17 and it works great.

You won't have steering wheel controls but in order to get that functionality you'd have to shell out close to $100 for a different model that's made specifically for BMWs.

old car - 2000 Chrysler LHS. The amp is an 11 speaker Infinity 688AC 360 Watt. The deck I was planning on purchasing though is nice because it has unlimited programmable colour so i can match the rest of my cars lights, my current deck does the same thing. Current Deck----New Deck

Looks like this one!


http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-Series-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O

Yes. I didn't do a ton of looking tbh, but they were cheap and had solid reviews. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RNNX8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the amps I actually found this really cool YouTube channel that tests out budget amps to see if they are "up to Snuff" or trash.
Here is my build:

Door speakers
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059AK2T0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Amp for door speakers
Dual Electronics XPR84D 2/1 High Performance Power MOSFET Class D Car Amplifier with 1,000-Watts of Dynamic Peak Power

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849

Sub
Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V-c4BbJW5C6F2

Amp for Sub
Audiopipe AMPI-1500 1500 Watts 1 Channel Mono Amplifier

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Audiopipe-AMPI-1500-1500-Watts-1-Channel-Mono-Amplifier/48123860

iphone and the iBooks app. Bluetooth headphones is a must. I can work out forever listening to a book. I listened to tom clancy red rabbit this morning for a 40 minute gym session.

I understand you don't like to bring your phone to the gym, but for me it's all about the convenience of one device. I don't even use my point and shoot camera anymore for the same reason, too many devices is too troublesome. Then you have to charge all the separate devices too. Same with my old trusty mp3 player, in college it was great but the phone does it all and more. Then when I get in my car, the phone connects to my cheapo bluetooth adapter and my phone keeps playing the same book. And believe me, if my phone had wireless earphones somehow, you bet I'd stop using the other one I have in a heartbeat.

I like This MB Quart amp.

and if you don't go with Focal take a look at these Infinity Kappa 6x9s or These JBL 6x9s

I know about the cabling parts, what I think i need is Something like this piece. Correct?

here's (what looks like the same one) for 4.50

I use this adapter in my CTS4.

• It connects through the AUX jack in the center console
  
• It uses a 12V USB adapter to power it (also in the center console)
  
• It connects automatically
  
• It stays out of sight
  
• The whole setup is well under $10

Amazon has these that's usb powered. I have one for my older Kenwood head unit, it has a usb slot right next to the aux port, so it's perfect.

So the only caveat is that it doesn't route phone calls to the aux port from my HTC M8, just media audio.

I have used This one for about 2 years with no real issues. I have it connected to USB so it automatically turns on when the car turns on and for the most part my phone will automatically connect to it if Bluetooth is on. While playing the audio is great. If it's on and I have I connected and I'm not playing anything and my car audio is up kinda high, you can hear a little electromagnetic interference like a slight buzz and tick but that may be dirty power from my car so your mileage may vary, but it's fine, once you start playing something it totally goes away. My cigarette lighter is in the arm rest in between the 2 front seats so it stays hidden away.

So I get your point, its frustrating when stuff doesn't work right. But have you tried the cable they are telling you that you need? If they tell you thats what it is, then tell them to get one and test it out before you pay for it. Seems pretty straight forward right?

For what its worth, I find these factory stereos to be so useless with tech. I had a VW that constantly froze on the Navigation screen if I had a phone call come in, and a Jeep that liked to randomly reject my phone too. For my Mini, I just bought a $10 Bluetooth adaptor off of Amazon, it plugs into the USB and a 3.5mm cord that's like 2 inches long from it plugs into the 3.5 port beside the USB. Bam, I put my phone in a cradle that is on the dash and I have instant Nav/Google Play/Android Auto/Music/ whatever without the bullshit or cords. Its like a nav screen, only I didnt have to pay like $2 grand for it. I get in my car and it instantly connects, every time.

Also just so you know, you might as well go out in your backyard and set your money on fire if you want to go the lawyer route. Again I get where you are coming from, and yes it should work, but they'll just blame it on the phone and theres no way you can prove its not the phones fault. If you read the fine print in your manual I bet it has language thats something along the lines of, "...will work with compatible smartphones," or something to that effect. All they have to do is say they dont guarantee compatibility with every phone and you are up shit creek.

Sorry for the response that's the length of a novel.

Edit: here's the link to the adaptor I bought. It took a month to get here, and youll have instant Bluetooth, won't even need the USB cord for the iPhone.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HT07QXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_SHwhAb1TX21YE

Make sure it covers VHF and UHF frequencies. If you're doing eight or fewer apartments, consider this one from Amazon.

Also, get an antenna that does both VHF High and UHF as some of yours are on VHF High...

allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit

If space is what you need, I can vouch for this guy... I am 38 and have a baby seat in the car as well, so your mileage may vary.

Found one, turns on automatically with power from USB or cigaretter lighter from car ignition.

UK and US Amazon links:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GWGD26A/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-NFC-enabled-Wireless-Bluetooth-Auto-Reconnect/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484852288&sr=8-3&keywords=homespot

> If it matches your battery, and the receiver works directly from the battery, you may have all you need.

I don´t have a Battery yet, that´s the main problem. I´m not sure what type of source I should get, or what I need.

> The charger should do that. If not, it's broken.

Well, the description of the charger Board I already ordered weeks ago isn´t saying anything about a protection. the title says only "Protection" without any context, so I don´t know. But I´ll probably order a Powerbank PCB, perhaps even with LCD Screen to be able to see the power usage, for this.

> If we bought the same one, yes. But we probably didn't, so do your own testing.

Well, I don´t actually think all these receivers are that different. I ordered one similar to this one .

I use this:
HomeSpot NFC-enabled Wireless Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio with Bluetooth Auto-Reconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Connect it to your USB port and AUX line in. After you've paired with it once, when you turn your car on it will power up and auto-connect to your phone.

I've had it for nearly a year and I haven't had a single problem with it.

Additionally, I use this to have media (and assistant) controls on my steering wheel:

Satechi Bluetooth Button Series (Media Button) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM75NL0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I had this driving my two of these and the amp was just entirely too much for them at anything past 15 volume on a scale to 50. It definitely is decent, but I don't have the means to test its actual output.

This works great on my 2007 and meets my requirements: are it and forget it, fast connectivity, no batteries. It's been solid for me:

HomeSpot NFC-enabled Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_S4eNwbEM1KEQH

And to avoid ground noise:

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y6eNwb2BSE5ZD


Tips: don't max out your phone's volume or will cause distortion. I keep mine at 80-90% of volume. I can still use the phone with the car. I have an android phone. I connect Bluetooth phone top cast and media streaming to the adapter.

I got it off Amazon. It's a dual channel 50W + 50W driver that can drive 4ohm -8ohm speakers. I used BOSS 4" 50W 4ohm speakers

TDA7492P 2 x 50 Watt Dual Channel Amplifier Wireless Digital Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Amplifier Board 50W + 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HtjByb5TNPS0P

BOSS AUDIO BRS40 BRS 4" 50-watt Full Range Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mvjByb6J5BQZV

Bluetooth audio is supported by the 2013 and up BUT you can inexpensively get around it by tucking one of these in your center console.

http://www.amazon.com/Coodio-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speaker-Iphone/dp/B00HT07QXI#Ask

Get this: https://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC3-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00FG9MJ6I/
and don't waste your money. Use it to buy speakers.

Kenwood 1177524 Compact Automotive/Marine Amplifier Class D Kac-M1824BT, 180W RMS, 400W PMPO, 4 Channel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UTXQL74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9EIyCbTV64W3B

You could even splice it in to your existing wiring. Tuck it up under the dash or somewhere out of site. Turn on the factory stereo for cassette tapes, leave it off and crank up the bluetooth if you're feeling digital.

The HD650's have a really high impedance (650ohm), so it probably wouldn't have enough ooomph to push them.

Fiio has a separate amp that you can dock with, but it's kind of ugly, see here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M172FY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004M172FY&linkCode=as2&tag=nocor04-20

Basically the E7 or E17 would sit in there and get a boost.

I haven't researched the higher-outputting dac+amp combos - you might have to buy separately. I'd post this question on head-fi.org - they are the most useful people around for these matters.

What about this one

even this would work http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E12S-12-Inch-Hatchback-Enclosures/dp/B0013MWTB2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-BRS40-Replacement-individually/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503958993&sr=1-1&keywords=raw%2Bspeakers&th=1

Channel Master CM3418 8-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M1EPL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_tYNtpDLRWC5yC

You need a DA

Channel Master CM3418 8-Port Distribution Amplifier for Cable and Antenna Signals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002M1EPL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SpTXzb68SA15G

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003N0XDT4/ref=redir_mdp_mobile my preferred amp, and also means that if you upgrade to some high impedance headphones you can always grab http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004M172FY/ref=redir_mdp_mobile to attach it to later on.

I have this in my Navara, it's mounted behind the rear seats and has a bit of punch. You'll be able to wire directly to your head unit.

http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-Hideaway-Compact-Powered-Sub/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1396440666&sr=8-15&keywords=kicker+subwoofer+8%22

NEW KICKER 11HS8 8" 150W Hideaway Car Audio Powered Subwoofer Sub Enclosure HS8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GQ.zzb4CFS7S5

This is the one I got and it's a combo, it won't blast your ears off but it gives it a more full sound.

Its a all in one unit.

https://www.amazon.com/Hideaway-Powered-Subwoofer-Enclosure-HS8/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482809725&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+8+inch+subwoofer

So after doing a bit of research, i'm currently looking at these items:

CD player: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007Y3OBOC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16D1Q3U7G1XSE

Amp: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007Y3OBAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

Turntable: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003BPNCLU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A16D1Q3U7G1XSE

and my yamaha ns-266s

Price History

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LG Tone HBS 730
HomeSpot NFC-enabled Wireless Bluetooth Audio Receiver
Bluetooth Receiver BlueFit R1 Wireless Bluetooth 4.1

You could take apart one of these and use it. Just have to figure out how to supply it with USB power (5v I think)...

https://www.amazon.com/Coodio-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speaker-Iphone/dp/B00HT07QXI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505421058&sr=8-4&keywords=aux+usb+bluetooth

$8.00 and all you need is a usb power in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HT07QXI

Works just dandy. It's plugged into my 4 port USB charger (for power) and a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable plugs into my AUX input. It's not for calls, etc, just for audio out.

/r/carav

if your pioneer radio is labeled "siriusxm compatible" all you'll need to do is buy this and you can find an adapter to convert the stock antenna to the antenna this tuner uses

From what I read the OEM HDRadio antenna works, the nav works off the included antenna, and the XM Radio you have to buy a tuner accessory.

Also on the pioneer site under the Phone Integration section it says "voice control".

So I just read through the rebate form and it seems you would not be eligible for the rebate because you're an existing customer. It uses the wording "new customers" several times but then also specifically says "Offer not valid on pre-owned radios, or on radios or tuners that replace an existing radio or tuner on an account. "

So you can either buy the tuner outright for $35 or you can buy your new stereo in a bundle with it. You'll have to do the math and see which is cheaper for whatever stereo you end up picking out. Again, budget? Features?

​

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4100NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B00SKJPKGW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459283441&sr=8-1&keywords=nex+4100

Shop around, you can find it for $500.