Reddit mentions: The best exterior sealants

Magic Yoyo N9 or N12 from Amazon. They come in at ~$15 and ~$18, respectively. You can get a 100 pack of string for ~$20, depending on brand. Get a better bearing, I recommend a onedrop 10 ball, but everyone likes something different. You want thin lube for unresponsive, that's ~$5. Finally, response pads can be bought for ~$2 a set (you want the standard sized pads) or you can buy a tube of flowable silicone for $4.

Bearings - Everyone likes something different. I prefer onedrop 10 balls because they are quiet. You don't need a string centering bearing, it may have some effect, but it's not a massive difference. Each type of bearing has their positives and negatives.

Response - Flowable is the cheapest, since you can make numerous, ~20, sets from one tube. But having premade pads is nice, since there's no down day waiting for flowable to dry. Flowable is somewhat messy, but nothing major. Here's a tutorial, so you can get an idea of what is involved. There are numerous others on youtube.

String - Everyone likes something different. 100% polyester is the norm, but if you like cotton or a blend, go ahead. I adore Kitty Nylon. It's softer than polyester and lasts longer. It doesn't come in many colors, at least in bulk. Generally, everyone likes Kitty Normal. Good chance you'd like it too. String color does affect performance. The dyes all do different things to the material. Read more here!

Lube - Again, to each their own. Some people like lube, some don't. Bearings can be used with no lube, if you wish. A small amount of lube will make them more quiet. Don't be too worried about over lubing a bearing and making it responsive. You have to drown them to get them to do that.

Store links are in the sidebar. There's a good list of recommended throws in the sidebar as well, if you want more options. I just really like the Magic Yoyo models and they are really cheap. They are way better than their price tag lets on. I replace all my bearings and response pads as soon as I get a yoyo. So, I don't factor in having to immediately replace those parts. Simply, they aren't <$20, they are ~$30.

There's also a list of tutorial sites in the sidebar, so you can get back into learning ASAP.

I think got everything. Hope this helps. Have Fun and Good Luck!

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

• Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  
• Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  
• Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  
• Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10
  
  
• Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  
• Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  
• Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.
  
  
• Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.
  
  Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
  
  
• Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  
• Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20
  
  I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
  
  I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
  

Hey so here’s the deal. 8mm throw on a polisher is outdated as hell and the griots garage polisher is not a bad way to start learning but it will take you forever to get out scratches with an 8mm throw. Max shine offers a 15mm throw option for pretty much the same price and is good for beginners. (Link below)

As far as compounds go I would be looking for one step polishes to learn with. I will also supply a link to my personal favorite one step polish. I’ve been able to remove 2000 grit sandpaper marks with this polish and the correct pad. Don’t get wrapped around the axel at the fact that it has ceramic in the name, it just means that they advertise that you can put a ceramic product on the paint right after using the polish instead of removing it with alcohol or prepsol spray.

As far as pads go I would recommend using a couple pretty easy to use pads when you start out. One being the euro fiber pad that should be your go to for removing scratches. It’s not too aggressive but can get out scratches easily. Next you should get a finishing pad for final polishing and that will give you the shine you’re looking for.

Now for the sealant. I personally don’t use any type of sealant that I have to apply via polisher and I try to stick with the spray on type sealants/ protectants. There are a million on the market and are increasing everyday, especially with the ceramic craze going on. Beadmaker is a good option for protection and being hydrophobic. Adams polishes offers some good options so you might check them out. If I were you I would ditch any type of wax that you are using and start looking into the newer stuff on the market. I personally use a ceramic detail spray from technicians choice that I like. It doesn’t last as long as I’d like it to but the application is the most simple I’ve found and for $25 a gallon it is pretty affordable. (That price is at a detail supply store where I live)

Here’s some extra tips that I think you should look into since it sounds like you are learning. YouTube is where you can find great how to videos on what you’re trying to learn and also a place to learn about new products. Also try to find a detail supply store near where you live. Their products are much better and cost a lot less than going to a major auto parts store to buy detailing products.

Technicians Choice Ceramic One Step Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NBWFP6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IMs8Cb934239H

Maxshine ShineMaster M15 15mm/900 Watt Dual Action/DA Polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07343W387/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RIs8CbS0QESQJ

Buff and Shine Uro-Fiber Pad For Compounding and Polishing- 6 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZY328FH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HRs8Cb4F8S3A2

Rupes Yellow Fine Polishing Foam Pad 6" (130mm/150mm) - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK4Y6WX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4Ts8Cb5EB2PC2

I was searching for info like you a few days ago because I wanted to treat my new '17 Audi A4 properly, and I'm sure you feel the same about your MB C300. Its a really nice car.

I ended up getting CQuartz UK w/ Reload and applying that after the claying/polishing/IPA.

CQuartz UK is a coating (different from wax and different from a sealant). It lasts longer than a sealant and I believe is a bit more durable than a sealant too. The two sealants mentioned by the other poster are totally fine and will look good and will do the job.

I chose the coating because I felt it would be more protective for the city, dust, etc and last longer. I was noticing a trend in a lot of nicer cars getting a coating instead, and then the CarPro reload is a sealant that bonds nicely work the CQuartz. Some coatings don't play nicely with other sealants.

My only tip is to work in small sections. Don't do the entire back side or hood all at once. CQuartz dried on me and didn't buff out nicely so I had to polish and start over on certain sections. You should wipe it off within 1-2 mins.

Wheels
------------

What I found out in regards to wheels was that people would take something like Collinite 845 wax or even a sealant like hydro2, any wax or sealant will do, and apply it to their wheels. I believe all it does is act as a small layer for the brake dust to land on and then it makes it a lot easier to take off/prevents it from getting caked on.

I clean my cars too often for the wheels to get all that dirty so I don't really do this as the brake dust comes off pretty easy unless you didn't wash your car for a year I guess.

I imagine you are going to be pretty obsessed over cleaning your MB for a while (I always am when I get a new car) so if you want to hold off on wasting product on your wheels you can. Its no use if you're gonna clean your car top to bottom every week/two weeks.

For dressing the tires, I use Opti-Bond tire gel.

Rubber/Plastic
--------

I settled on using CarPro PERL for dressing/protecting any plastic or rubber. It has UV protection in it and doesn't shine too much where it looks overly done.

Everything else
--

So I'm just gonna list off everything else I got and give a quick description on why

• Tire dressing application pad - it was cheap, I can use it over and over, and they were a different color from my other applicator pads so I don't mix it with other chemicals
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine - I live somewhere where I don't have access to running water outside and its very dusty here so this is a must after 2-3 weeks of my car gathering dust
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus - self explanatory, its a really popular/powerful/effective wheel cleaner. turns the brake dust red after like 3-5 mins and you wash it off or start agitating (get wheel woolies and a wheel well brush) to further get anything it missed off
  
• Platinum Pluffle Towel - I was trying to find a good drying towel and these work quite well
  
• Yellow foam applicator pads - these are for plastics, rubber, or interior protection. can also be used for applying wax/sealant to the rims. don't use these on paint
  
• CarPro Iron X - this is a really nice thing to use after claying your paint or after a wash. it shows iron deposits and basically decontaminates the car for when you apply a sealant/wax/coating (i spray it on car, wait a few minutes, then do another wash, then dry and do IPA)
  

I'm a complete psychopath when it comes to the detailing of my car. My home set-up costs literally $900 not including my back-up product.

In your situation, I would go to Obsessed Garage's Youtube channel and watch his waxing process. You can't use all of his tips but what you can do is use his guide on Collinite 845 + Jescar Power Lock waxing and that will put a great seal on your car.

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504300193&sr=1-1&keywords=collinite+845

https://www.amazon.com/Jescar-Power-Polymer-Paint-Sealant/dp/B0050IQH9K/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504300205&sr=1-2&keywords=jescar+power+lock

Beyond that waxing, I would strongly recommend putting in an Amazon order for some Optimum Opti-Clean which is the best waterless wash on the market.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH9KCM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FCW0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

It will be a pain the first time around but that wax lasts an easy 6-8 months and is better than most detailing shops will give you.

If you have any other questions I'd love to help anymore that I can!

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
   
   
5. Applicator pads
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
   
   
6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
   
   
   
7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
   
   
8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
   
   
   
   
   Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
   
   It fits in a home depot bucket.
   
   If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
   
   WARNING **
   
   When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
   
   Steps for this process:
   
   
9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.
   
   1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
   
   
10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.
    
    
11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.
    
    
12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.
    
    
13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.
    
    
14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.
    
    
15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?
    
    
16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.
    
    
17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.
    
    
18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.

as a general rule of thumb anything with meguiars on the label will be a reasonably priced, good mid range product to use on your car, for an average person. not the best in the world but also you cant really go wrong with it.

• i use this for leather
  
  
  
  
  if you are interested
  
  
• This is a good shampoo (Gold Class)
  
  
• this for keeping in the boot for cleaning off the bird shit (do that as soon as you see it no matter how crazy you look in the parking lot (Quick Detailer)
  
  
• this about once a month to keep the paint protected (21 Synthetic Sealant )
  
  
• This for the wash's where i cant be bothered to used the 21. (Spray wax)
  
  (tbh the spray wax and quick detailer can be interchanged, on a technical level they preform slightly different functions, but for the average person who just wants a clean reasonably shiny car it will be fine.)
  
  just make sure any microfiber cloths you use are kept clean and free from grit or you will scratch the paint.
  
  if you are really sad like me give the ammo nyc youtube channel a watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLUuiMnlhc0 i find them very relaxing to watch not sure why, but also shows lot of "best practice" for keeping your car in good condition.

Don’t have any advice on an inspector but can lend a hand on tools. I did a bunch of projects in my travel trailer and kept an eye on which tools I was using all the time.

Eternabond Sealant tape - easier than dicor caulk and read really good things about it for sealing roof or wall leaks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RSIK4G?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Screwdrivers (obviously!)
number 2 square driver (most of the screws in mine are, not sure about other brands)
Socket set
Electrical tape
Electrical pieces (wirenuts, spade connectors)
Multimeter
A few shark bite plumbing fittings (coupler, cap)
A handheld saw, one that takes sawzall style blades and an assortment of blades.
Small sledge hammer, sometimes called an engineering hammer

This one may be a bit gross, but a few of the long wooden sticks like you’d use for roasting marshmallows, the thicker and longer the better. We wound up having the dreaded poo pyramid at the base of the toilet from not using enough water or too much paper. The stick was flexible enough to break things up and bend around the corner to help move things back down into the tank.

Hope that helps a little bit!

Good luck with your search

Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.

Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.

Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months

"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

Menzerna Micro Polish SF 4500 - An extremely gentle polish used to prep paint prior to sealing/wax. Works extremely well with Subaru's soft paint.

Chemical Guys JetSeal 109 - No experience with this yet, but good reviews. I'm looking into a few other options for my first paint sealant (just prior to winter). Adds an additional layer of protection between the wax and clear coat.

Colinite 845 - Best wax I've found. Durable, easy to apply and even smells good. Wax is the first line of defense between the elements and your paint. I wax my current vehicle once a month on average. It depends on the weather if I have to do it more/less often. Rule of thumb for me is to re-apply when it stops beading.

GYEON quartz Cloth Q² Syncro Ceramic Paint Protection Coating Kit – 50ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785VMQMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_E1jXCb8MFVHMJ

There's a guy here in west Michigan who specializes in doing these coatings, but you should be able to do it yourself if you give it time to cure. I wouldn't trust anyone to put it on, unless they've worked with it before.

The product alone was $179, but it protects up to 60 months. It basically forms a shell around your car. I've tried literally everything in my life from waxes to paint sealants and imo, this stuff is the absolute best. It also looks cool on your car with polarized sunglasses. It's even more amazing if you have a metallic color. I'm passionate about detailing, and if you prep your car and put this on - you'll be able to blast your paint with water to clean it.

You should be able to simply glue that back on. Can you press it back into place with your hands? Does it sit nice and flat? Someone can probably recommend a better adhesive, but I've had really good luck with 3M Spray Adhesive.

As for the glass damage, I would use a silicone sealer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

If you can apply it from the inside that's probably best. Hopefully the outer face of the glass isn't damaged at all. The sealant can fill in the back and keep it from getting worse/keep water from getting in behind the mirror.

I would buy a high quality paste or liquid wax for use over a sealer. For wax I like Meguiars Ultimate or Mother's California Gold. They're both really nice waxes in my experience.

For a sealer, I highly recommend Chemical Guys Jet Seal. It adds a really nice layer of shine and water/dirt repellency.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001TFE38A/

In terms of interior products, I'd recommend you stay away from oil-based products (armour all and the like) as they can form a layer of product and dirt over time that makes difficult to clean the dash. Go with a water-based product like 303 Aerospace Protectant https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AJVP7T4/ it lasts awhile and it gives a more natural finish. And being that it's water-based, it's much easier to remove / clean up should you need to. It doesn't have that 'greasy' feel to it either.

Edit: corrected product application order. Clearly having a long day!

I would also advise you to coat any lenses you don't want scratched with ceramic coating. It's usually applied to car surfaces, but it works great on plastic, it's hard as glass because it is literally silicon dioxide, or glass in liquid form. Super slick too, so harder to get dirty, easier to clean. I put the stuff on everything I don't want scratched and it works great. There are lots of products to choose from, just look for Automotive Ceramic Coating. I use this Nano Bond stuff off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Nano-Bond-Ceramic-Coating-Protection/dp/B07MHB8KHQ/ref=sr_1_2?

What are you diluting the CG extreme green? I would use it 10:1 or max 4:1 on plastic but at 4:1 I would try a test spot. [Collinite 845] (http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463199667&sr=1-1&keywords=collinite+845) is my go to for wax. Its amazing. Look into [Menzerna Powerlock] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P87W0IU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28XYGYZEEI9GN&coliid=I13XMMOTQDHSMU&psc=1) as a sealant or [CarPro Reload] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9A0AC8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28XYGYZEEI9GN&coliid=I31BV89A4R4H6S) as a spray Sealant. If you maintain your wheels on a weekly basis Megs D101 will work fine. I use it on dirty ones 4:1 and it works well. I use it on mine 10:1 weekly.

EDIT: I bought [CG Hybrid V7] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_808_16-Optical-Detailer/dp/B004UPZXQM/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463199939&sr=1-1&keywords=hybrid+v7) by the gallon on sale through S&S about 4-5 months ago. I like it but I don't think its a legit "sealant". I use it more as a quick detail spray then anything. Don't get me wrong. It works great and does a good job. Just don't use it in direct sun light.

Meguiars: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G190526-Hybrid-Ceramic-Wax/dp/B06WVQ6MVR

Mothers: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-01024-Ceramic-Spray-Coating/dp/B07K46RD7Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mothers+cmx+ceramic&qid=1555014993&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

McKees: https://www.amazon.com/McKees-37-MK37-260-Coating-Enhanced/dp/B074WPDR4W/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=mckees&qid=1555015022&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

I don't have Meguiars. Just the Mothers and McKees and they're both spectacular in my experience so far. But too short to tell how long they both hold up long term. I was a bit peeved when I went to go use McKees again and the spray nozzle got clogged with hardened product, but on the flip side, I was really impressed that it really does harden quite well, so I'm pretty confident it will last a long time. Plus is pretty safe/easy to use.

Had a double rainbow as well! Loved it!

seconding the seam sealing at home. Also, don't pay for the seam sealant from dealers. Go to an auto parts store or amazon and get flowable silicone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKEBO0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's the same stuff but waaay cheaper. Also seconding waterproof testing before the trail. I took a garden hose and drenched it, don't just splash water on it and hope for the best. Its a lot easier to reseal it at home than get soaked on the trail.

Flex seal tape will leak. It did on my 96 Jayco popup and forced me to rebuild the entire roof frame. Look into Eternabond. Its expensive but it is the best version of seal tape you will ever find and EXTREMELY sticky. Ive had it on my popup for 2 years now without a drop of water getting through.

Otherwise, the camper looks to be in great shape! Have fun!

Only suggestion i would go with, if you have like 20 extra bucks, is upgrade the v7 bottle to the 1gal bottle. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UPZXI0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&s=

It's basically 8 bottles of v7 for less than double the cost of the 16oz. I just bought it like 2 weeks ago and it works great. Smells like oranges too go figure lol. But check and see maybe if bulk is cheaper than the bottle for your other stuff as well. I've seen a couple products like that.

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

Hmm, I think it really matters on how you apply it. If you use machine or hand. It also depends the the item. I know there is this product: Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 - 20 CC that is hydrophobic and beats off water like crazy! As for the paint sealers like Jetseal, they last for a good 6 months, if you don't wash the car Improperly. Here is a video demonstrating the Opti-Coat: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbLl9vpTyvw Im fixing to give it a try myself :) Says it last a lifetime I don't really know about that lol

Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?

1. Wash the car with this soap.
   
   
2. Scrub with these
   
   
3. Dry off with this
   
   
4. Decontaminate with [this]
   (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?

Depending on your paint condition (I'd recommend a decon/clay/polish anyway) you might be able to get by with just a cheap sealant for $10 Walmart link, TWISS and a couple microfiber towels. Stupid easy to put on and should last for several months.

I've done two cars with it and the results are fantastic. I have CQuartz UK 3.0 (consumer level ceramic) ready to go for a third but I might just stick with the cheaper spray sealants. Jury is still out.

Turtle wax has a spray ceramic that should be available soon in stores that should give you a year's worth of protection after a couple coats. Amazon link

Otherwise White Glove / Executive Auto Detailing / etc should be able to give you an estimate. It won't be cheap. $800-$1600+ depending on level of correction needed, product used, and warranty. Plus they'll want your car for at least 2 days if not more for correction and the cure time needed on the ceramic since it can't be out in the rain/elements until it's cured.

Here's a write-up with product links and pics on the recent correction and TWISS coating I did on our van. Yeah, a van, lol. Took my slow arse ~12 hours to complete. Link

I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.

• 2 Home Depot buckets with grit guards, microfiber cloths & wash mitt, waffle drying cloth
  
• soap -> [Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine](https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=pd_sim_263_2? (you can u_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D8DR0AO&pd_rd_r=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8&pd_rd_w=L1qpT&pd_rd_wg=YSRMs&psc=1&refRID=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8) (I dilute this and use it as the "clay" lubricant as well)
  
• "clay" -> Nanoskin Autoscrub (works well enough, more cost effective than real clay)
  
• seal -> Chemical Guys Jet Seal
  
• wax -> Meguiar's
  
  
  

From what I gather there's some stuff called coat seal that can sprayed over the board. But I'm not too sure how it would work if the board is submerged. Wish the best of luck for you though

CRC Urethane Seal Coat Viscous Liquid Coating, 250 Degree F Maximum Temperature, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Clear - 18411 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IC7ZQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q5QjDbEE0GFY3

There are cases that combine the pi zero with the camera integrated into the lid. I've had success using Motion to run the camera, live streaming (viewing over VPN remotely) and auto loading into Google Drive and Photos (inotify, rsync) with email notifications. If you added a small battery from Adafruit and the UPS linked below, you could have a small package for some pretty good video.

You can assemble the hardware, and spray with electronics waterproofing to allow for rugged use. Probably best to silicone in micro USB power and USB cables to the pi first, then cap the ends when disconnected.

I havent used the UPS with the listed case, but some mods may work. The issue will be the cost, all said and done it will cost about 65 for a complete kit, and if you aren't familiar with the software process it will take the average non-initiated about 2 weeks of determined self teaching to make it all work

Raspberry Pi Zero: $14:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/3708

Zero2Go: $20 https://www.adafruit.com/product/4114

Battery: $15:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/328

Kit with preferred case: $26:
https://www.amazon.com/Vilros-Raspberry-Starter-Power-Premium/dp/B0748MPQT4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=raspberry+pi+0+case&qid=1554653377&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Camera: $13:
https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Camera-Module-Webcam-Support/dp/B0748FZXW3/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=115XCG0UJFB2O&keywords=raspberry+pi+0+camera&qid=1554653486&s=gateway&sprefix=raspberry+pi+0+&sr=8-3

Water Proof Spray: $14:
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-Viscous-Coating-Temperature/dp/B000IC7ZQ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=BJN7ZAM77XCW&keywords=electronics+waterproofing+spray&qid=1554653537&s=gateway&sprefix=electronics+water&sr=8-2

I bought my flowable silicone from amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BKEBO0/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Make sure you don't get the "RTV" version. It doesn't work.

Get the one that has "Windshield and Glass Sealer" on its label.

I used it to mod my Yomega Dash to unresponsive and it works really well. I also used it to replace the worn-out response pad on my YYJ Trigger. I would say followable silicone is better than the stock response on my Trigger.

So definitely try to use followable silicone in your yoyos. You won't be disappointed.

Yeah. Ceramic is AWESOME. I was using mother's ceramic during the summer, but got a line up on another product on early release / testing... here's what I currently use & absolutely love it.

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-53409-Solutions-Coating-16/dp/B07XYPS3PS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=turtle+wax+ceramic&qid=1573960471&sprefix=turtle+wax&sr=8-3

I've posted my list before:

Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link

Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link

Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link

Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link

Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link

Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link

Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link

Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link


Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link

Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link

Cuts drywall like butter. Great job on the vents. You can put this product over your caulk surrounding the vent, hitting the top of the van and the vent itself, adding additional years of proven protection to your job. A lot of people with motor homes love this shit. As per the reviews.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RSIK4G/ref=twister_B01JRKPJ0E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: Amazon


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

You certainly can. It's definitely recommended to not join liners if you can possibly help it, but if you do it right the seal will be stronger than the actual liner. Needs to be done on a warm and dry day. Needs to be cleaned thoroughly, and you need to use a roller to make 120% sure that it's all stuck together correctly.

I used to use this product

I recommend not starring the car at all. All those little stickers can be pretty hard to get off, and may cause slight damage.

Also, I doubt that your paint is swirl free. If you are asking a no0b question (which is fine), you probably aren't looking correctly. The dealership yo-yo that washed your car probably caused a bit of swirling. Your white car will be exceptionally good at covering it, and that one guy can't do that much damage.

You don't need this porter thing. Check out the DetailedImage link over there ( I would not buy directly from them as they charge way, way too much. Find the products on Amazon or something).--->

You only need the power tools if you're going to polish/compound (which are exclusively for removing paint imperfections). But don't get too excited about not spending money, as you have sealant and wax to get.

The pads you need are applicator pads (not pads used on power tools). They are pads used to apply sealant and wax. Applying sealant, and then wax is what you do to protect your paint. Keep in mind that you'll need enough microfibers to dry your car AND wipe off excess sealant/wax. Also keep in mind washing the microfibers in such a way that won't destroy them (Never use fabric softener.).

Suggestions if you have no idea where to start: great sealant, pr0saws 1337 haxzorz wax, good clay bar, sweet clay lube, Microfiber detergent

All this advice comes at a price, of course: posting your before washing and after pics

Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.

My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:

ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax

Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?

Thanks!

I used Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit (I did waterless) from Amazon and then CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant, also waterless.

I copied the links into this post, hopefully they work.

Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GN0rDb4FJCA5N

CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant - Most Advanced Top Coat Polish and Sealer on the Market - Infused with Liquid Carnauba for a Deep Hydrophobic Shine on All Types of Surfaces - 18 Ounce Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5KQSKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZO0rDbWMKN0YR

I use Meguiar’s Sealant and Chemical Guy’s butter wax (which is amazing). Make sure you let the sealant cure on the car before wiping it off. It adds some protection for rock chips but it’s impossible to stop them all especially highway speeds. It does make rinsing the shit off the car easier.

i used Carworx Refinish Restorer. worked awesome. easy to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008A5GRHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey, I’m interested in using Car Guys Hybrid Wax top coat polish/sealant on my brand new 2018 Chevy Cruze. It has some very light scratches from what I imagine was meh detailing before I bought the car. I really don’t wanna go at myself with polish, and I wanna wax it and it seems like this is a good product. I wanted to know what you guys thought, you personal experience, if you recommend it etc.

Product in question: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5KQSKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q5f8AbC6W0CE9

Good info, thanks. After using collinite 845, is it worth going over it with this sealant?

Get opti-coat. It's like a synthetic near-permanent wax. And it lasts for years.

It working: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DPrvA2yQAA

To buy: http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-Opti-Coat-2-0-20-CC/dp/B008HHOMSY/

BTW that small tube is good for like 6 avg sized cars so you'll probably never need to buy more again.

Looks like Potting Compound

If I wanted to protect it from the elements I'd get some CRC soft-seal spray or something instead maybe.. like this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-Viscous-Coating-Temperature/dp/B000IC7ZQ2

In a similar "band-aid but could actually last a really long time" vein, there are some amazing tapes out there:

https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW-4-50-RoofSeal-Sealant-White/dp/B002RSIK4G

Wash and Wax the plane with whatever, people make a big deal and spend way to much money on this stuff. I bought the Wash Wax Airplane Wash - doesn't work any better than dish soap ....

If you want to buff and polish the paint then use a good product like Jet Seal with a random buffer. Even this stuff is expensive for what it is ...

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_201_16-Butter-Wet/dp/B00FALVU8A/

Then buy a $4 bottle of turtle wax wax and dry - after every flight spray and wipe down all the leading edges and bug laden surfaces.

Once a coat of wax is on there - microfiber cloth and turtle wax will take all the bug and gunk off in a single wipe with minimal pressure ... It will work on oil spray from prop seals too

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0/


Save the $ for 100LL

All you put in your original post is, "So, my problem. I'm going to add the CarPro CQuartz product and I'm not sure what processes are needed.", and you listed several processes. Also, "Do I need to do anything else? Do I need to do the clay bar?". If you have done coatings in the past, you should know what to do. All this implies you're not sure on how to proceed.

Put this " My question is regarding factory paint contamination and whether it’s worth polishing / adding time and money to remove contaminants which may not be there. " in the original post.

You didn't say the paint was defect free. All we can assume is there may be defects, but its up to your eyes to determine.

Do the baggy test to see if there is contamination; put your hand in a sandwich bag and feel the paint, you'll feel everything.

Do you have hookups on the lot? Electricity, water, and sewer? I'd definitely recommend thoroughly cleaning it and then going over the seams with EternaBond.

You should take a look at putting a sealant on instead of a wax. Sealant will offer more protection (~6months) and will be more hydrophobic than wax. Wax provides way more gloss, but actually attracts dust and dirt. Here is a link to my favorite sealant https://www.amazon.com/Jescar-Power-Polymer-Paint-Sealant/dp/B0050IQH9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510925862&sr=8-1&keywords=jescar+power+lock&dpID=41AZEXgNM0L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Refinish Restorer is awesome for Avalanche cladding.

This should last you 1-3 years depending on upkeep and how much its exposed to elements:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D4NM5XM/

There is a guy with a long term video where he has over a dozen waxed on a hood, and he keeps recording updates over time. This still beads water the best out of them all.

I daily drive mine as well. You all should try out Jet Seal. It says it lasts a year, but I try to do it every 6 months or so. The rain basically washes my car now. The stuff is like magic.

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_118_16-Anti-Corrosion-Protectant/dp/B001TFE38A/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=jet+seal&qid=1559080493&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For reference I looked up that tape. Wow, it is expensive. I think I'll stick to my silicone caulk for now. http://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW-4-50-White-Roof-Seal/dp/B002RSIK4G

I purchased a car that already had it professionally does by a company called Permaplate. The paint is in perfect condition. I then added another 2 layers myself.

One of these
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-01024-Ceramic-Spray-Coating/dp/B07K46RD7Y/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ceramic+coating&qid=1572839842&sr=8-6

And another something like this but for $5 on eBay. I believe even the sketchy ones work
https://www.amazon.com/Manfiter-Ceramics-Coating-Ceramic-Hydrophobic/dp/B07R58DN8K/ref=sr_1_39?keywords=ceramic+coating&qid=1572839893&sr=8-39

I’m waiting on this one:

CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant - Most Advanced Top Coat Polish and Sealer on the Market - Infused with Liquid Carnauba for a Deep Hydrophobic Shine on All Types of Surfaces - 18 Ounce Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5KQSKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KB5-BbMVXA6CT

When I had the one on my first 5th wheel apart, I wrapped it with EternaBond tape then put the hose clamp over that. Not cheap, but you should have a roll of it in the camper anyway. Great if you have to make an emergency roof repair.

Exactly that. The clear stuff you use for windshield repair. You take the old pads out and carefully flow that into the response groove.

I currently use Meguiars D156 Synthetic X-press Spray Wax as a drying aid and wax at the same time. Saves time and helps with lubrication.

I just ordered the best sealant and wax combo according to Pan the Organizer, and Obsessed Garage.
Jescar Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845

Going to try it out soon but requires prep work. Strip old wax>clay bar>sealant>wax.

you have a variety of choices as far as silicone types, most notably flowable silicone and rtv silicone.

flowable, such as Permatex's flowable windshield sealant, has an added benefit of self leveling meaning you don't have to shape the material to fit the response groove as it's thin enough to fill in the area like a liquid. Cures into a solid material after 24 hours or so.

rtv silicone, such as Permatex ultra black or Permatex high-temp red, can be more robust of a material after curing however it requires a little more manual labor as you have to shape the silicone in the groove and make it flush/level. Manual shaping means it'll be a little more messy depending on how you go about it but it's really not too bad once you get the hang of it.

Personally I prefer rtv silicone for the variety of formulations I can use but most beginners will probably use flowable since it's far more convenient to pour.

when i first started out i went down to my local hardware store and picked up a small tube of rtv silicone, brand not a factor, and just started practicing on a couple of throws that I had really worn down the response on.

Personally would go with Meg 's M21

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J854UC?keywords=Meguiars%20sealant&qid=1457841538&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Good sealant that will last a while.

You could just open it and spray the internals with this:

CRC Urethane Seal Coat Viscous Liquid Coating, 250 Degree F Maximum Temperature, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IC7ZQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P34DybY8MS46N

i've heard of people lining the floor of their tent with flowable silicone, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

to prevent pads from slipping- you might try putting some silicone on the bottom of your pad to get the same effect?

CRC Urethane Seal Coat Viscous Liquid Coating, 250 Degree F Maximum Temperature, 11 oz Aerosol Can, Clear
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IC7ZQ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is also this maybe?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TFE38A/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I5E6ZI9GSIVJ1&colid=1Q82X8ZDJ2P0W
Cquartz is popular, but expensive.

It only has 8,500 miles on it. I was thinking it was defective, but the problem exists on both sides. It doesn't look like a manufacturing defect, just a crappy design. Here are some pics of both sides

As you can see, the side view mirror moldings look finished, not damaged and are mirror images of each other. The rubber seals go in passed (past?) the side view mirror just a few millimeters. To make matters worse, you can see that there is a channel in between the outer part of the seal and the part that touches the window...which means that pretty much any water that collects near that corner can easily run down the channel, into the gap, and down into the door. I know it would be temporary and I might have to reapply the gunk every now and then (which isn't a problem since I live in San Diego where it rains 7 times a year), but I would hope that there is something that can easily plug the hole up. Maybe something like this?

Picture 3 makes that bumper look so long.

edit
Looks like Amazon has it for about $28 with their $5 off promotion and subscription (I believe you can just cancel the subscription after the purchase) http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-JETseal-Anti-Corrosion-Sealant/dp/B001TFE38A
edit2
Went ahead and bought one. Been reading how long it lasts while having the car parked outside all the time.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

I've used this to stop slippage between my air mattress and my silnylon bivy floor and it works great, but not sure how it would work on polycro.

This is what you want

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

I use this

Flowable silicone.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408764509&sr=8-1&keywords=flowable+silicone

Jescar Power Lock Polymer Sealant + Collinite 845

the same as ?

CG Butter Wet Wax + CG JetSeal?

Also I watched. YouTube video about ceramic coating and the guy was recommending this one:
CarPro Reload Spray Sealant 500 milliter with Sprayer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L9A0AC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cJ7VBbNPKK2WJ

paint protector

vinyl

Could give RV repair tape a try. Mind you once its on, its NOT coming off. Its also not cheap, but you shouldn't need much. Id suggest thinking of something to put under the tape to gap the hole, of course. Give it something more to stick to and to keep it from flexing. Maybe even thin sheet of plywood.

Or even some scrap kitchen flooring and use rv tape to hold it down.

EternaBond RSW-4-50 RoofSeal Sealant Tape, White - 4" x 50' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RSIK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6EQNBbMX14GJ4

Just some ideas to get you thinking

This is what most people use.

This is what most people use https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

If you are handy with a soldering iron, and the traces are corroded, you could probably take some insulated wires and use that to replace any corroded traces.

If you do get it working, I would suggest applying a conformal coating http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-Viscous-Coating-Temperature/dp/B000IC7ZQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421522421&sr=8-1&keywords=conformal+coating&pebp=1421522429621&peasin=B000IC7ZQ2 which will waterproof the printed wiring board.

Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight

About a month ago I did a full detail which included:

• Wash and Clay Bar
  
  
• Meguiars M205
  
  
• Meguiars M21
  
  All applied with a Porter Cable DA polisher and some high quality Micro Fiber towels

I did my Camaro for about a hundred bucks. You all are paying too much. You can see my car after coating in my post history.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4NM5XM/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_X74QDbT4SNAME

CarPro Cquartz UK 3.0_30ml Kit w/Reload https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4NM5XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MpHQCbF5XD7BC

Spend a day doing it yourself. You’ll learn a lot.

and I'll leave this here...

Jescars

WARNING: The post above is full of referral links.

Here's a copy with all of OP's referral links removed:

CART

• WEN 7300 Utility Cart
  
• Tornado Hooks of Various Sizes
  
• Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer
  
• Basic Wood Screws
  
  
  PRODUCTS
  
  
• CG Best Selling Products Kit
  
• CG Honey Dew Snow Foam
  
• CG Butter Wet Wax
  
• CG Diablo Wheel Gel
  
• CG V7 Hybrid Quick Detailer
  
• CG Jet Seal
  
• CG VRP Dressing
  
• CG Bug and Tar Remover
  
• CG Glossworkx Glaze
  
• CarPro Iron X
  
• Shine Society Glass Cleaner
  
• Black Mamba Black Gloves
  
• Zwipes Waffle Weave Towel
  
• 50 Pack of Microfiber Towels
  
• Detailers Brush
  
• Wheel Brush
  
• Viking Wheel Brush
  
  EQUIPMENT
  
  
• Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer
  
• Sun Joe Pressure Washer Extension Cord
  
• MATCC Snow Foamer
  
• Extension Cord 50ft
  
• TORQ Orbital Polisher
  
  
  

Do not use silicone. You will regret it later when it is time to re-seal your roof.

You will need to get on the roof and reseal the skylight, and, if it were my roof, I would go ahead and do the whole thing if it's needed. You can find plenty of videos on Youtube on how to do this.

Lap sealant can be bought on Amazon (Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant 4-pack), and I would recommend two other items as well; Butyl Tape for laying down as an extra barrier under the roof equipment, and a roll of Eternabond for emergency repair.

No, you should only use Nanoskin Glide, Nanoshock or Bubble Bath. I have tried it myself and had far less marring and marking using Nanoskin Glide with the pads and sponges, and Bubble Bath for the wash mitt. If I used a different brand lubricant or soap I had problems marring similar to what you described.

Bubble Bath:

Amazon

Autogeek


Glide:


Autogeek.net

Amazon

Nano Shock:

Autogeek

Amazon

Those are the best places, in my opinion to start looking. It should be noted that Glide is a concentrate so it dilutes out to around 3.5 quarts of useable product.

Did the same thing in March and filled it with epoxy. Hasn't spread yet

Pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/RLQIJvP

Epoxy:
Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer, 1.5 oz. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BKEBO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mMS4CbN4Q0WC8


Claiming comprehensive shouldn't raise your rates but it might. Fiance for her car broken into last month and we had to get rear and back Windows replaced. Plan renewal is in June and it went up $20 more a month. Not terrible but still sucks. Geico obviously said it wasn't because of it but I bet it is

Additionally, my rear window is tinted and has the special color shifting uv coating for the entire panel. I would have to pay to get it retinted and the new panel likely won't have the color shifting coating

This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Carworx-133-175-Refinish-Restorer-500ml/dp/B008A5GRHM

It is nasty stuff, wear gloves when applying with a brush. It makes the black trim look brand new. There is plenty to do your trim 20x over.

Mine's been outside about a year or so now.

Huh neat! I had no idea such a thing existed, would this work the same? https://www.amazon.com/CRC-Urethane-Viscous-Coating-Temperature/dp/B000IC7ZQ2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1BNAX76GEYEN4&keywords=conformal+coating&qid=1565674664&s=gateway&sprefix=conformal%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-4 I have the shakiest hands known to man so a spray can will work a hell of a lot better than a paint brush for me.

That looks to me like an installation of an "insulated patio cover".

The lag is supposed to be self-sealing, but both under and over-tightening can cause the seal to fail, and the rubber gasket does degrade over time.

When I had my patio roof installed, the materials wholesaler strongly suggested to my contractor (who was new to patio-room stuff) that he cover the seams and hold-down lags with "eternabond" tape in order to avoid callbacks. We discussed this, and I elected not to have the seams taped. Later, when leaks appeared, I found 50' rolls of the 2" wide eternabond and used it to seal the seams between panels and used circles of the 4" version over the hold-down bolts. It's now 8 years later, still leak-free. In hindsight, knowing that the roof would mellow from bright white, I probably would have gone with a black or ivory color tape.