(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best headphone accessories

Got my Christmas presents to myself and some others today. Really excited! After I have some more time with the Superlux's I'll add some comments. Really loving em so far. Merry Chrysler everybody!

EDIT: Impressions!

For the record - here's the playlist I used to test these out, with the original pads and the HM5's. These are songs I know very well inside and out, across multiple genres.

Okay - Here's what I have to say about the Superlux's. I'm quite impressed with their sound:price ratio. I was skeptical at first, about buying a semi-open can but I can surprised to say I am very happy with the purchase. I realized too, that semi-open it very ideal for me so that's a plus.

Sound

So, the Lux's are known for being a good, cheaper alternative to other cans out there that deliver pretty good sound for their price. And that's exactly what they are. I will say I do not own any higher-tier cans, but I have tried them, and as a musician, know how things should sound (I like to think). Bass is punchy when it needs to be, out of the way when it needs to be, etc. I was surprised they got the sub-bass range out very well. Mids are very pleasant (for me). Everyone has their different opinions about what mids should sound like, and I like the way these sound. A little recessed, but still very prominent. High's are not ear-bleedingly loud (good) and they aren't unhearable either (double good). I like to think this is pretty balanced, but everyone has their own ears. Frankly, I didn't notice a difference between the stock pads and the HM5's besides a tiny bit more bass.

Build

Well, when you buy a budget can you get what you pay for - eh. The build isn't terrible, but not great. The band on the top is more plasticky than anything, I was expecting nice stainless steel. The cans themselves are good. A little flimsy, but as long as you're not being an idiot with them I wouldn't worry about them breaking.

Comfort

As Superlux is known for - clamp force! They are a pretty tight fit, which I kind of like. I was relieved when I put the HM5's on because it really makes them way more comfortable. Mind you, these are not the angled ones. They are much more comfortable and if you want to buy Superlux headphones - buy these too. Not bad, though. As someone else posted on here a while ago, a headband cover might be a good investment, I don't feel the need for one yet and I don't know how well it would work with the two pads on top instead of a leather/padded strap. That same guy also put the idea in my brain to buy another cable (and adapter) for them, which I have, it just hasn't arrived yet. The cable I bought has an inline mic/volume control and is wrapped (braided?). I actually fits the color scheme nicely, I like it.

Overall

Good headphone. 8/10 would recommend.

First, everyone saying you won't hear a difference, is full of it. Not a difference from 24/48 to 24/96 mind you, but you WILL hear a difference going from whatever DAC and amplification your monitor is supplying your headphones, to equipment designed solely to perform these tasks. The jump from the monitor to even a dragonfly will be huge, but the jump to end game level equipment like THX AAA amps and a high quality DAC like a Geshelli labs, or SMSL SU-8 will be life changing, and you'll go down a path that will lead to you spending way too much money on headphones. I'm currently on this path, and it's glorious, but your family/friends might think you're insane for spending thousands on headphones.

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You need a DAC and amp. I don't know how seriously you are taking sound quality, but there are a number of combo units that are fairly cheap, probably best for your situation if money is tight, being a student I know the struggles, so you should get the Audioquest Dragonfly. It's a DAC and amp in one tiny USB stick sized device, supports 24/96 (I think that's its highest supported quality) and it's only $99. There are other versions that are better, and more expensive, but if you're gonna spend more than 100$, or want some reference for the future then.....well, read the rest of my comment.

Audioquest Dragonfly https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?th=1

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If you are willing to spend a little more, and are a little more serious about headphones, I recommend the JDS Labs atom headphone amp, it's VERY good especially at the 100$ price point. As far as dac just get something like a Schiit Modi 3, also 100$.

JDS Labs Atom amp https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/

Schiit Modi 3 DAC https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Modi-Converter-Delta-Sigma-DAC/dp/B07KWHWV1M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=schiit+modi+3&qid=1569914940&sr=8-1

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If you're really serious about headphone quality, and want end game level equipment, and money is no object I recommend the THX AAA amps, they are superb and vastly outperform anything else on the market in terms of harmonic distortion and noise floor. They are a bit hard to get right now because of demand, massdrop isn't shipping their 789's out until late November, and Monoprice isn't getting their new model 887 in until around the same time. The only option is to buy used, but everyone is asking for a small premium because of the scarcity, and demand. They're 400$ MSRP, used it's like 420-450. Monoprice has another model however, it's the one I currently have and I LOVE it, it's a balanced DAC and balanced AMP in one unit, and it's 500$, the Monolith THX AAA 788. With it you don't need anything else, and it sounds....well it sounds like whatever you're listening to, because it has such low levels of distortion (well below what is even noticeable by human hearing), it's truly source perfect.

As far as DAC to pair with something like a THX amp, there are a number of options, but Geshelli labs makes a good balanced DAC that's only $180 I believe (if you go balanced amp, like the THX, you'll need a balanced DAC to get balanced output, and you'll need a balanced cable from your headphones to the amp)

The Monolith THX 788 DAC/AMP https://www.amazon.com/Monolith-124459-Headphone-Amplifier-Technology/dp/B07KQW1WFX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=monolith+thx&qid=1569914858&sr=8-1

Drop THX 789 AMP https://drop.com/buy/drop-thx-aaa-789-linear-amplifier

Geshelli Labs balanced DAC https://geshelli.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fenog2-pro-dac-purple-case

I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.

If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.

These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.

If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.

Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)

If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.

The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.

As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.

I'm in Canada, btw.

I have a basic SMSL dac/amp to use with my PS4 through optical and have enjoyed my 598s + Modmic 5 for gaming for some time now (almost 2 years). Very light and comfortable. However I can't always use open back because the house can get noisy with a baby niece and nephew. I've used a few Hyper X headsets before (still own the original Clouds, sold my Alphas) but was getting bored.

I enjoy the Sennheiser sound so I was looking for something similar to the 598s, but closed . Along came the Cs. They're a tad expensive up here - $180 CAD + 13% tax on Amazon... But I found someone on Kijiji selling theirs for 90 bucks! They were in good condition too. Box was a little beat up, but both cords were intact (1/4 was still wrapped). Here's a comparison from a gaming perspective in CoD WW II:

598s have this smooth sound that's easy to like. Imaging is excellent and soundstage is wide enough to make your head turn around to see where stuff is coming from sometimes.

Gunshots pierce the environment to immerse you without sounding shrill or harsh and the tail end of explosion sound effects with the shrapnel and dirt flying around is very satisfying.

The mids of course are forward, people usually call this "warm", don't they? Sorry I'm not an expert audiophile. Vocal callouts are lively, the rumble of tanks is clear, reload sounds are detailed and very "metallic", the way they should be.

The bass is a bit light. It's there, but I know Sennheiser cans don't emphasize it. Explosions and ordnance are present, but a little more low end wouldn't hurt. I wanna feel like I'm there, not far away from the action.

The Cs are essentially exactly what they sound like... Closed 598s.

• Treble sounds similar and has enough detail, just not quite as perfected as the originals.
  
  
• Mids sound a little more hollow, but just barely. It's not terrible but I expected this.
  
  
• Bass is improved. Punchier and tighter. This I enjoy. :)
  
  
• just the right clamping pressure, soft headband, and the unique rubbery cloth earcup material = the most comfortable, best sound isolation closed headphone I've ever tried. Seriously. Beats both the Beyerdynamic Custom One Pros and the Hyper X Alphas WITH HM5 pads on them. They are wonderful.
  
  Here is something to note: the standard 4 foot 3.5mm cable is TRRS and includes a cheap crappy mic on it. Amps usually don't read TRRS plugs very well. When I first tried that cord with 1/4 inch adapter, it sounded like absolute trash! Dollarama earbuds would give it competition.
  
  I plugged in the 10 ft straight 1/4 inch cord from my SEs into the Cs and it fixed the issue. Sounds great now! So, if you plan on using these, don't use the TRRS cable in your amp or PC motherboard. You'll have to get a y splitter like this.
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Smartphone-Computer/dp/B00Y4663GG
  
  I highly recommend these on sale or used. Not $180 CAD.
  
  TLDR: Cs are basically exactly what you expect, a closed off 598. Different headband and earcups make for a comfortable fit and clamp. Be wary of the TRRS cord in your amps. Worth it on sale or used.
  
  

wall of text....let's break it down....

--------------------------------
> So, I made a mistake by posting this on the wrong subreddit and got some advice from there. I decided to come here, where my post won't be deleted because I was stupid.

Happens to many people. But now you're here, so, zero issue.

> Alright, here's the dealio. So I have had my current headset for over 3 years now, and I want to get an upgrade since it is becoming very uncomfortable since my head has grown, and I also just want better sound.

Ok, lets get crakin'

> I'm pretty sure I have boiled it down to my top 3 but really cant decide, so I decided to ask some people that know their stuff. So, what I am thinking of is the Arctis 3, since it is pretty much the same as the 5's, the Hyper X Cloud 2's/1's, since everyone tells me that they are the best, and I loooooove noise cancelling headphones, and the audio technica ath m40x.

Arctis series (and really, all SteelSeries) products are junk.

The HyperX Cloud series is a good product.

The M40X is a good product.

>But, the reason I have not decided is because of all the negatives I have found through research and reviews about these. From my research, I found that out of all of them,

Internet reviews, band-waggoning, wolf-packing etc. Yea, it makes it hard to do research because a negative here, and a negative there, and that just compounds the issues (which may not exist, because of user error, mfr defects, or other variables).

> the arctis 3's have the worst sound quality, which I found is also pretty similar to the ones I have right now.

No debate there.

> For the Cloud 2/1 I have also heard that they are good, but they aren't as good as dedicated headphones. I am also worried that they might not be comfortable for me.

Ok, the Cloud series (with the Cloud Core/Pro, Cloud II, and Cloud Alpha being the 3 stars of the line, with the Cloud Stinger being the best of the ~<$50 headsets). The Cloud series is based of the Takstar Pro80 headphone, a competent clone of the famous Beyerdynamic DT770. Kingston really nailed the gaming headset market here, because the Cloud series is truly fantastic value, with its sound quality over other headsets, and rivaling that of a lot of headphones in it's price range(s). AND they are very well built, and very comfortable out of the box. (And they can be modified with 3rd party pads very easily.) Their mic is reasonably good (not Sennheiser good, but better than most headsets by miles.)

They are also a bit heavier than most gaming headsets because they are so well built. Now, to get to the nitty-gritty, the differences are:

• Cloud Core/Pro/X is the base model, no accessories and I've heard that the headband has slightly worse padding? But I can't confirm that myself. HOWEVER I have read some sources that the Pro and X have slightly different impedance ratings for use with consoles. That requires more research that I haven't done yet.
  
  
• Cloud II is the Cloud Core/Pro with accessories (and maybe slightly better headband padding???) it comes with two sets of earpads - one leatherette, and one velour, both are very nice. A USB Dongle-DAC/7.1 simulator, which... I never used. A carrying/storage bag and an... airplane adapter.
  
  
• Cloud Alpha is the newer version of the Cloud II and some people say it's an upgrade, some people say it's a sidegrade from the Cloud II. In terms of accessories, it loses the USB Dongle and 2nd set of earpads (the velours.)
  
  > And last, I have heard that the m40x's are uncomfortable.
  
  Yes, common consensus (and even my own personal experience) the M40X in stock form have some comfort issue. They have tight clamp, and the stock earpads are kinda awful considering that Kingston managed to package the Cloud series with earpads that are substantially better. So, if you buy the M40X, it should be automatically factored into your budget for another $20-30 for decent leather or leatherette earpads. A good suggest without breaking bank would be something like Brainwavz pads (https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Earpads-Headphones/dp/B00OLKV5LI) with many people saying the Angled Sheepskin pads ($30-40?) are the best for the M40X.
  
  Some minor other 'headband' stretching may be required too...
  
  
  > Please help me make my decision, and if you have other suggestions for other headphones, I will be glad to hear it. I'm looking for headphones up to the $100 ish price. I don't need like a headset, even though some of the things I mentioned above were headsets. By that I mean, I don't need a microphone to come with it. I simply just want a comfy, and good pair of headphones that I can play games with.
  
  If you don't care for the Mic, there are DOZENS of options to go though...
  
  so, lets simplify it.
  
  
• You want closed back headphones?
  
  
• Gaming? Music and Movies?
  
  
• At or under $100?

Alright, I can work with that.

To preface this, I recommend pairing one of the following headphones with a clip-on microphone - either a cheaper model like a [Zalman ZM-Mic1] (http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ) or a more expensive model like [Antlion's Modmic] (http://www.modmic.com/collections/frontpage) - rather than getting a headset with an integrated mic. From a price/performance standpoint, headsets almost never stack up. The headsets made by the real headphone brands are exceedingly expensive, and with a very small body of exceptions the cheaper headsets sound terrible.

Now, onward to the headphones. When I hear "isolation", "comfort", and "neutral/warm sound signature", the first thing that comes to my mind is [NVX's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/624729/review-nvx-xpt100-a-direct-brainwavz-hm5-competitor) [XPT100] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2G9qk7IOEA) ([$99 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/NVX-Over-Ear-Headphones-ComfortMax-Cushions/dp/B0093PVTPS)). I actually own a pair of these myself for use as moderate isolation movie/podcast headphones for when my house is too loud for me to use my open headphones, and they're among the most comfortable headphones I've had. While they don't take the top spot - no headphones without an AKG-style suspension strap will ever do that - they're definitely in the top five or so. Their sound isn't the most detailed out there, but they're fairly neutral, solidly built, and very comfortable, particularly given their price.

A more expensive step up would be [Shure's] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/5056) SRH[840] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/3768) ([$199 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SRH840-Professional-Monitoring-Headphones/dp/B002DP8IEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426324378&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+srh84)). While I sadly haven't had a chance to try these out myself, I've heard little but good things about them. Formerly on Innerfidelity's wall of fame, and with consistently good reviews for their sound, comfort, and overall quality, they're definitely a solid choice if you're looking for a neutralish sound with some bass.

A third option would be the [Focal Spirit One] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/focal-spirit-one-page-3) ([$175] (http://www.amazon.com/Focal-529102-SPOH-Spirit-One-Headphones/dp/B007AH7YFU) or [$179] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008R9QRIU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007AH7YFU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HS51KQ3XCE0J5B14R27) via Amazon for the black and white models, respectively). Focal has a quite a solid reputation in audio, but the Spirit One had some serious issues on its release due to manufacturing defects, and it suffered a rather bad reception as a result. These issues are said to have been since resolved, however, and the Spirit One is a very solid headphone at that price. The sound is a bit on the bassy side, but not extremely so, and is quite good for this price. Comfort may be an issue, however, as the One was quite clearly designed more for portability than comfort. While no review characterizes it as uncomfortable, it's a safe bet that it doesn't measure up to the other two in this regard.

Another rather unique option, albeit one with some inherent drawbacks, would be [Fostex's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/570138/review-fostex-t50rp-my-intro-to-the-world-of-orthos) [T50RP] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review) ([$127 via Amazon] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review)). Now, the T50RP is, at stock, not the best-liked headphone. Though it is one of the (if not the) cheapest orthodynamic headphones in the world, its very poor comfort and [rolled-off sound] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FostexT50RP2011B.pdf) have attracted a lot of criticism. Having a pair myself, I wholeheartedly agree with criticism of its comfort, but think its stock sound is better than people give it credit for. What the T50RP has going for it, however, is an [exceptionally dedicated modding community] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements), and some very high-profile modified variants. Modded T50RPs under the branding of MrSpeakers and ZMF can sell for $300, $600, or even $1,000, and experienced reviewers and audiophiles alike have claimed that they measure up to headphones in those price ranges. If you happen to feel a DIYish inclination, a T50RP can be quite a solid project to work on, and, in theory, it can get you $300-600 sound quality for a little sound of $200 accounting for the various materials it takes to mod them.

Now, there are, as said, quite a few drawbacks to the T50RP: the stock sound isn't for everyone, it requires more power to drive than the other mentioned headphones (not enough to cause issues at stock, in my opinion, but when modded it can be quite intensive to drive, almost assuredly moreso than your integrated audio can support), and it's absolutely terrible in comfort (if you do go for them, [a headband cover like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a pair of [Shure] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC840-Replacement-Cushions-Headphones/dp/B002Z9JWZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426325351&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+pads) or [Brainwavz] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426325358&sr=1-1&keywords=brainwavz+pads) pads were what I used to take them from "terrible" to "pretty darn solid" comfort), and modding isn't for the faint of heart. After quite a while of tinkering, I've yet to get my own T50RP mod working properly. It's amazing value if you can make it work for you, but it's quite a significant amount of effort to achieve that.

Listening

In your car or your home, if you have bluetooth/airplay (or whatever the android equivalent is if that's your thing) already, just pair your phone, select your audio output source and begin playing from LivePhish (SBD - Paid) or PhishOD (AUD - Free).

If you have an AUX jack in your car, but no bluetooth, you can get something like this that plugs into your AUX jack and gives you bluetooth.
https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1469204334&sr=8-8&keywords=car+bluetooth+adapter

Some portable devices and bluetooth dongles support different types of bluetooth streaming, ABTx vs A2DP, ABTx is the better choice as the standard claims to be lossless equivalent, but A2DP will work fine.

Where to get it

• If you are looking for SBD's to physically download and store on your Phone/Tablet/Computer for playback, then LivePhish.com is the paid way to go. Otherwise basically you want to look into torrents but that's not legal and I wouldn't necessarily advocate that.

• If you decide you want good quality AUD recordings (IMO they capture the magic in the room much better) then you can torrent those at http://bt.etree.org, which is for sharing legal live tapes. For example, Chris King's Schoeps MK21 (a type of mic) recordings from BGCA are pretty good. I had to EQ them a tad to dial down the boomy sound inside BGCA, but good none the less.

As you explore audience recordings, you can look for what mics your ears like the best. I'm a fan of Schoeps and AKG pulls typically.

Audio Formats

You seem like you may be a bit new to this stuff (forgive me if I'm wrong) so one thing to keep in mind is lossless audio (FLAC/Apple Lossless M4A/SHN/AIFF/WAV files) vs lossy audio (MP3/AAC/OGG). The lossless stuff sounds more "true" to how it was played whereas the lossy stuff doesn't retain all the fine detail and generally has noticeably more audio artifacts or a wishy washy sound to it. Lossless stuff comes in 2 flavors, 16-bit (essentially CD quality audio) and 24-bit, which is said to have even more fine detail but IMO only really matters with good audio equipment.

When you get a free show from LivePhish.com as a result of your ticket code, then you get a, lossy, 256 kbps MP3 file, why they don't give 320, I don't understand (320 is the highest bitrate MP3 can have). To my ears there's a noticeable difference between 256 and 320. Less so between 320 and a lossless FLAC/AppleLossless file, but if you're doing headphones listening, the FLAC is worth having. I rock all lossless even in the car just because.

If you have more questions feel free to PM me.

EDIT: Added more detail

It's not 50% faster, it just has 8 GB VRAM versus 6 GB VRAM. Games today don't even use that much so you're really talking about future gaming. Yes, if you keep raising your budget, you will get a faster computer and GPU. If you want to spend the extra money, then go for it. It's really not that big of a jump from 6 GB VRAM to 8 and definitely not worth the extra $400 in my opinion, but that's up to you. Remember, the mobile versions of GPUs are slower than the regular ones in desktops. You're looking at a 1060M 6 GB and 1070M 8 GB. I would save the money for a larger SSD, more RAM, good speakers or a good headset instead, and get the Asus GL502VM-DB74.

If you game and want good sound and use a headset/headphones check out the Sennheiser PC 363D headset (Amazon link) or the other Sennheiser gaming headsets. If you use speakers, check out the Micca MB42X (Amazon link). Make sure you use a DAC like the Schiit Modi 2 or DAC/amp like the Schiit Fulla 2 to get the best sound possible. (Fulla 2 is very new and not yet on Amazon, but you can still get the original Fulla from Amazon and other retailers. It's better to just buy the Fulla 2 from the Schiit website.) Some other good options are: Micca OriGen+, FiiO E10K, AudioQuest DragonFly / AudioQuest Dragonfly v1.2, Audioengine D3, SMSL M2, etc. Check out /r/BudgetAudiophile /r/Audiophile /r/Audio and /r/Headphones if you want more info. The great people there taught me a lot about quality audio. You can also check out /r/AVexchange for good audio deals.

I hope this is the right place to post this, but I'm looking to buy my first DAC/amp. I've only ever used desktop/laptop/phone outputs and want to upgrade. I wanted to buy a DAC/amp combo rather than a dedicated DAC and dedicated amp for a few reasons: (but I'm open to being convinced otherwise)

1. price; I'm on a relatively small budget and a combo DAC/amp seems to be more cost effective.
   
   
2. portability; I move my desktop often and having to only move one device would be much more convenient.
   
   
   Budget: ~$100 max, preferably less
   
   Source: Almost exclusively my desktop.
   
   Current Headphones: ATH M40x and SHP 9500s. I know that these are super easy to power, but I'm looking to gain some improvement while also future proofing for when I buy something more demanding.
   
   I'm currently looking at a few devices, but open to other suggestions:
   
   
3. SMSL M2 ($65 on amazon)
   
   I like that this one is small (and therefore easily transported). I became interested in it after watching a rave review by Zeos. The only negatives I see are a lack of output options (not currently an issue, but might be in the future) and the fact that it uses 3.5 mm headphone out (I much prefer 1/4").
   
   
4. Monoprice DAC/amp ($67 on sale with promo code)
   
   I've seen mixed reviews for this one, but it's currently on sale and seems like a great value. Not sure how great it would do with my current low impedance headphones. I like the design and output options.
   
   
5. Micca OriGen ($100 on amazon)
   
   
6. SMSL M3 ($84 on amazon)
   
   Like I said, I'm open to other suggestions in the $70-$100 range.
   
   
   

An overview of all submitted deals will be collected in this sticky comment. If you find that one of the deal has run out please let me know. Off-topic top level comments asking what to buy will be removed, deals that are missing some of the info will not make it to the list. I have changed the the suggested sorting to "new".

Official Manufacturer Sales

CIEMS

• 64Audio: 20% discount on selected custom In Ear Monitor models with code "BF2017"
  
• Alclair: 20% discount on (C)IEMs with the discount code "BLACKISBACK17"
  
• Cleartune: 20% discount on universal & custom In-Ears
  
• Empire Ears: 20% discount on all custom and universal IEMs
  
• InEarz: 25% discount on Custom In Ear Monitors with code "BF2017"
  
• Noble: 15% off all Custom IEMs
  
  Headphones
  
  
• hifiman: He400i for $219 and several other options
  
• beyerdynamic (GER/AU/CHE only): DT880/990 Manufaktur for the price of regular models 199EUR and several other options
  
• Status-Audio: 30% discount on the CB-1 with code "PREBLACKFRIDAY", Amazon.com deal with similar price
  
• V-Moda: Crossfade Wireless for $180
  
• Monoprice: Monolith M560 for $150 and Monolith M1060 for $250
  
• Audeze: Selling off B-Stock, all deals are 2nd hand factory refurbished units
  
• 1MORE: 30% discount on all models with code "HEARMORE30"
  
  Amplifiers and other peripherals
  
  
• FiiO: Special deals on selected DAPs and portable Amps
  
• Violectric / Lake People: 12% discount now 25% on headphone amplifiers with code "BLACK-25"
  
• Plussound: 20% discount BT cables on Massdrop and on everything from their store
  
• Bottlehead: Everything but parts, gift certificates and repair service will be on sale at 15% off on Friday, November 24th. Forum Announcment
  
• JDS LABS: Discounts on the entire line up of DACs and amps.
  
• WOO Audio: 10% Discount on all Audio Electronics and free shipping within CONUS
  
• Mayflower Electronics: 10-25% discount on all items
  
  

  Audio Stores
  

  
  

• Romania: AV Store 10-30% off of headphones, speakers and amps
  
• USA: Musictek 10%+ discount on various Shanling DAPs and high-end universal IEMs
  
• China:Shenzen Audio Black Friday 2017 tons of deals...FLC-8S for $269 and much more
  
• China: Taobao: Boeing 747 for $24000000 (only one left) self pick-up only.
  
• USA ALO audio: B-Stock sales of Campfire Audio universal models
  
• USA MusicDirect: Audioquest Nighthawk for $300
  
• Singapore: NullAudio has discount on cables and AAW universal IEMs.
  
• Canada: Hivemind Cables ZMF Atticus for $899(USD) and deals on all ear-pads and cables
  
• Ireland: Hifi Hut: Open Box Hifiman HE400S / He400i and He560 -50%
  
• Sweden: Inet has the Plantronics Backbeat Pro for 899kr
  
• China: Penon Audio tons of deals
  
  

  Online / Retailer
  

  
  USA
  
  

• Amazon: Brainwavz HM5 ear pads in various colors for $13
  
• BestBuy: Jaybird Freedom F5 for $50
  
• Various: Sennheiser HD4.40 for $99 at Amazon and for $99 at BestBuy
  
• NewEgg: beyerdynamic DT990 Limited Edition for $125
  
• BestBuy: Audio Technica DSR7BT for $130
  
• Amazon: Audio Technica ATH MSR7 for $149
  
• ebay (buydig): beyerdynamic DT990 (600 Ohm) Chrome Edition for $140
  
• buydig: beyerdynamic DT880 (600 Ohm) Chrome Edition for $150
  
• Amazon: Sennheiser HD1 (different versions) for ~$250
  
• Various: Sennheiser PXC550 for $300 at BestBuy, B&H Photo, Amazon
  
• Amazon: Sony MDR1000X for $228 and WH1000XM2 for $298
  
• Adorama: Shure SE535 Clear for $299 and Shure SE535 Red for $349
  
• Amazon: beyerdynamic DT1990 Pro for $499
  
• Adorama: Audeze LCD2 variants for $650
  
• Amazon: NAD Viso HP50 for $170
  
• Amazon: Beyerdynamic A20 for $299
  
• Amazon: Sony MDR-1A for $198
  
  CA
  
  
• NewEgg: Philips SHP9500S for $60
  
• BestBuy: Sennheiser HD4.40 for $100 see page 41 for all headphone deals
  
• Amazon: Sony MDR100AAP (black) for $126
  
• Amazon: NAD Viso HP50 (white/red) for $198
  
• NewEgg: Hifiman He400i for $282
  
• Amazon: Sony MDR1000X for $330
  
  GB
  
  
• Amazon Status Audio CB-1 for £42
  
• Amazon: Meze99 Classics (Maple) for £199
  
• Amazon: Sony MDR1000X for £250 now down to £190
  
• Amazon: Sennheiser PXC550 for £290
  
• Amazon: Audio Technica ATH M50X (gunmetal grey) for £99
  
• Amazon: Sennheiser HD579 for £70
  
  GER
  
  
• Amazon: Bose QC25 for 170€
  
• Amazon: Anker Sound-Buds (BL) for 15€
  
• Amazon: Audio Technica ATH M50X (gun metal) for 119€
  
• Amazon: Sony WH1000xm2 PREORDER for 299€ item will ship on Jan. 18th, 2018
  
• MediaMarkt: Sony WH1000XM2 for 299€
  
  ES
  
  
• Amazon: Sennheiser HD1 (Momentum 2) for 155€
  

Thanks for all the help! I got my Tennmaks and I do like them, but maybe it's just because I'm not used to them, but it's rare for me to be able to keep both feeling snug at the same time. When I press them in, briefly, to get a better fit, they sound amazing. That's actually probably not what it's supposed to be like though, maybe a middle ground between what I normally get and when I push them in?

Anyway, I might give it another week or so to try to get used to getting a good fit. But if not, I googled those foam tips and found these. Is 400 the right core size for the Tennmaks? And do you perhaps suggest getting smalls if I feel like the earbuds aren't staying in place?

And no problem about the gold! You've been such a great help.

EDIT: Regarding fit, I just twisted the IEMS back and forth in my ears and they do seem to stick a little better, but they are easy to pull out and I have yet to test them for longer periods of time.

Budget: ~$150, maybe $200 maximum.

Source: This is tricky. I recently broke the headphone jack on my phone, so I'm possibly looking into a budget-oriented DAC to use with my Nexus 6, or using an old Galaxy S3 as an mp3 player. Might also try to fix the N6.

Isolation: More would be preferred. I ride the bus a lot.

Type: Around-ear, closed headphones would be best.

Current: Nothing to speak of.

Balance: I definitely enjoy a good amount of bass, and I like a V-shaped response.

Preferred music: I listen to a good variety of music. I'm into a lot of house, but also enjoy some hard rock/punk stuff.

Basically I'm looking for a comfortable fitting headphone with good bass response. I'm not sure if springing for a DAC is worth it, especially as I'll be using these on the bus/on the go and I can't carry around a big DAC, but I'm very open to options (must work with Android).

So far I've looked into ATH-M50x's which seem to be a good fit for what I'm looking for. I tried on a pair recently and they didn't quite have the bass I'm looking for but I'm hoping to boost that a bit with an EQ or DAC.

As for a DAC, the Fiio K1 seems like a good idea but there's mixed responses on Android compatibility.

Thanks in advance!!

Impressions:

The ATH-AD900X cost around $130 seem to destroy other similarly priced headphones in terms of sound. The clarity and presentation is mind blowing. Compared to my X2's I find they're thin sounding and a lot of instruments lack body. In many tracks I can discern individual instruments much nicer in my X2's. However, there are some tracks I prefer to listen to in the ATH-AD900X's. Tomorrow I am going to try out my first digital EQ and see if the headphones are preferable with a more neutral sound.

Comparison to HD598SE:

So, around black friday I had a friend order the HD598SE's off amazon now for $80. That's right $80.

I'm really happy he paid that for them, because I do not think they're worth any more than that. The ATH-AD900X are on an absolute 'nother level than the Sennheisers. I don't find it understandable at all as to how popular they are. When I go from my X2's to the Sennheisers I instantly notice a huge amount of grain, and lack of body to sound while the change from the X2's to the Audio Technica shows simply less bass, slightly less clarity, and less impact. Songs in the ATH-AD900X just sound like a different presentation, not necessarily a far worse one like with the HD598SE's. I think the Audio Technica's are much closer to the X2's than the HD598's and they're $20 less than the HD598's typically go for. I really feel their love is unwarranted and they should not even be able to exist at this price point. I can't imagine whatsoever how people used to genuinely pay $200+ for them. They sound like sub $100 headphones. Even my $52 IEM's are preferable soundwise to the HD598s.

The mods:

I did a detachable cable mod using this connector following this tutorial. I must say I was in absolute shock how easy the whole thing was. It was my first time using solder and everything was very intuitive. I'm genuinely angry at Audio Technica for not including a detachable cable for their $300 list price headphone. I also got her purple Brainwavz HM5 Pads. Of course they look way nicer and are way more comfy, but I do not hear a sound difference as many claim, but I can't really do a side-by-side test. I decided a headband mod would make them more comfy and help fit her tiny head so I chose this headband in black. I highly recommend it as it does the job properly and is a fun little addition to nearly any headphone for a small price. I chose the V-Moda cable for her and I think it was the best decision because it seems like it will last a long time, matches her pads, and is a long length yet looks much shorter while in use. Lastly we spray painted the driver covers grey and I prefer the look. The total cost of all these mods was $37 and I would really recommend doing it to every ATH-ADXXX model as they now feel like significantly higher quality cans.

Headphones I've used the past 10 years.

• ATH-AD700 - Discontinued now, but cheap used, open back, under $50, one of the biggest soundstage, but lacks bass
  
• ATH-AD700X - updated revision of the ad700, under $100 on sale, tiny bit better bass. The stock pad made my ears sore since it touches the driver. I replaced it with memoryfoam BrainWavz pad, and they feel much better. Puts less pressure on my eyeglasses too.
  
• ATH-M50X - My go-to music headphone, but I use it for travel gaming too since they fold up nicely and closeback for noise isolation.
  
• ATH-AD900X - Better version of AD700X
  
• Philips Fidelio X2 - About $200 on sale, a little bit less soundstage than AD700X, but much better bass. If you can splurge, I highly recommend this. They are balanced type headphones. Basically replaced the the M50X for music listening and AD700X/AD900X for gaming. It feels really nice, pad fits much better than the AD700X. I forget I am actually wearing headphones. If this is too expensive, SHP9500, is a cheaper alternative at 1/3 the cost.
  
• All of the headphones listed above are low impedance meaning you don't need an amp to get good sound output.
  
• Most gaming specific headphones aren't that good for the price. You're paying mostly for the marketing. Get any decent audiophile headphone and it will be much better.
  
   
  
  Virtual surround sound I've used
  
  
• Xonar U3 - Got this to replace my broken mobo sound, but found out it does virtual surround sound. Basically simulates 5.1/7.1 sound on a 2 channel headphone. Used it for many years gaming. Sounds awesome with good headphone that has big soundstage. Nice to hear directional audio to know here footsteps are at in games. Also acts like an amp with boost mode for high impedance headphones.
  
• Razer Surround Sound - free, but the worst virtual surround sound I've heard. Things sound muffled.
  
• Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi - Upgraded to this, it has better virtual surround sound technology.
  
   
  
  Hate wired headphone?
  
  
• How to convert wired phones into wireless gaming one
  
   
  
  Microphone
  
  
• ModMic - Used this for many many years, but got tired of wires dangling around
  
• Blue Yeti - Audio quality is so much better than the modmic, but it is big. Use a mic stand or arm.

I should start off by saying that I've never spent $200 on a pair of non-studio headphones but, these are my current favorites and I would HIGHLY recommend them (and going wireless- soooo much more mobility without getting tangled in a cord!). I haven't found better sound quality in wireless headphones (or any in-ear headphones, for that matter), the controls are great, the don't take long to charge, the battery lasts a long time, and I use them for several hours almost every day while I'm making knives so, plenty of sweat and a pretty tough environment. Also, if you get some of these replacement ear buds, they sound even better and do an amazing job of cancelling noise. That's a big part of what I use these for- ear protection when I'm running saws, drills, hammering on stuff, running my grinder, etc. Oh, last thing: I've been using these for a few years now, this is my second pair (I only replaced the first because my dog decided to eat the first set). $100 is a lot for me to spend on headphones but, when I needed a second pair, I didn't hesitate to buy these again. Hmm... JLab should probably pay me for this. lol Seriously, they're great. Best of luck!

Well if you insist on open, the Sennheiser HD558 seem to be available for ~120€ right now, so I kinda have to point you at them. Great pair of headphones, can't go wrong with them.

The AD700X are out of your budget. They're good, but I can think of several alternatives for less money.

I would like to suggest the AKG K701... they're considered to be a higher class than the HD558, and I believe they have a fast detailed bass that would work great for DnB. But they're 120€ only if you get them used (for what it's worth, that's how I got mine, and you can get a pair where only the box has wear marks, not the headphones). And the second bigger issue is that the K701 need an amp to drive them well, and the Fiio K1 is about 50€, so you'd really put the "flexible" part of your budget to the test. OTOH a DAC/amp combo is never a bad thing to have.

Some other great choices in case you want to read some more and reconsider closed back: ATH A500x (not AD500x), or the V-Moda XS (used). These would offer more impactful bass at the expense of soundstage, their sound signature is a lot of fun (while not skimping on quality), are better quality/better tuned than the M50x, and don't need an amp. I think they're likely to offer a more entertaining experience for your first steps into serious headphones. Perhaps I'm speaking out of my ass here, but I always felt that open cans are something that people should get as their second "good" pair, after they've had a chance to experience decent headphones for a while and have a better idea of what they want.

TL;DR If in doubt, grab the HD558 and don't look back.

ATH-M50 owner checking in (not the 2nd gen 'x' version)

I see a lot of people recommending the Brainwavz ear cushions, which I have never tried, but I think the memory foam in those actually changes the sound noticeably, which is not ideal when purchasing studio monitors.

I replaced the ear cushions with these Shure ones, and they fit perfectly now. The Shure ear cushions fit all the way around my ear, and allow the drivers to hover over my ears without touching. The stock ATH-M50 ear cushions pressed on a portion of my ears and made them rather uncomfortable.

The headband is comfortable, but the faux-leather material will flake off over time and with heavy use. I use a knit headband cover which snaps on over top and works brilliantly to protect the headband, and add a bit more cushion on top.

Another thing I love about these headphones is the skins on Dbrand. I went with black and white and they look GREAT!

Be cautious about pad change recommendations also. Being a newb, I watched a couple "gotta change the pads" video and not only did I change them, but threw out the stock pads (I didn't know lol ). I haven't liked the sound since the pad change and I've since ordered stock pads to get the original sound back. Enjoy and have a great day!

Edit: A nice individual DM'd me to ask me if I had removed the foam insert when I changed the pads. I did not. He suggested that I try the replacement Brainwavz pads without the foam insert. BIG difference. I'll still keep the stock pads because I never should have tossed them, but finally I'm enjoying the sound and comfort of the pad replacement w/the m40x's I'd hoped for. Here are the pads in care you're interested:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZY8PGJI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_YlpjDb2A086C5

Sure!

So I'll assume you guys have the absolute bare bones in equipment and work from there. Since these are voice recordings from the 60s\70s there won't be much fidelity to capture so you should be pretty safe.

I've only done this with a Windows machine but I think there are similar settings on Mac. If not this will at least give you an idea of what to Google.

You'll need to get the audio from the tape deck to the computer. Technically you should use a line input. If you have a desktop computer it might be the blue connector. If you have a laptop you can use one of these things or something similar. If you're a cheapskate like my Dad you can just use the microphone input (if you have a headphone/microphone combo jack you'll need this doo-dad).

Note that the Mic input is "hot" in the sense that it's very sensitive to the noise coming into it and a line level input from a tape deck with clip out all the audio. You'll need to dial the mic sensitivity down. In Windows 10 right click the audio icon>Sounds>Recording>Select your default mic input>Properties>Listen>✔Listen to this device (to monitor)>Levels>Adjust levels. How to adjust levels should be apparent soon.

If you're using a Walkman type player you can connect with a simple auxillary cable (double sided male headphone jack). If you have a big tape deck just hook it into the Mic or Line jack with one of these. Toss a tape in there and let it play. Check to see if you can hear it with the "Listen to this device" checked. Adjust the levels to where it sounds normalish. You'll fine tune it next.

Install Audacity. In the top bar you'll see a mic input drop down, select your line in or mic input. Click the audio meter for the mic next to check your input levels. Advice on this varies but in general keep the green bar bouncing on the low end between the -12 and -6 during normal audio levels on the tape. This gives some wiggle room when people on the tape get antsy. You can adjust that with the OS input levels and fine tune it with the Audacity mic levels.

Restart your tape, hit record, and play it through.

When exporting I like to use FLAC for lossless audio but if you're looking for something more practical just use a high quality setting for MP3. FLAC is built in but you'll have to install the MP3 exporter (which I just linked wiki instructions for). You can also use WAV but its a lot bigger and doesn't support tags. When you export you'll have options to tag the artist data. I like to input as much data as I have about the tape in these fields. It will display in any compatible media player and it keeps things generally more organized.

If you don't want to bother with any of that you could try visiting local music shops and recording studios and I'm sure there's someone there that you could pay to have it done. I've never tried that though.

Hope that sets you down the right path. Preserving old audio like that of our parents is important. I have a box of old "love tapes" my Dad mailed to my Mom when they were dating. I should digitize them... but it's really weird to hear. Maybe I'll send them out.

A headphone preamp, for example a Pyle Pro PHA40 ($16)

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PHA40-4-Channel-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003M8NVFS/

plugs into the Phones out of the mixer and lets you plug in several headphones each with their own volume control for the four local hosts so they can hear themselves (so they hear when they are too quiet, too loud) and all the other audio in the main mix like Skype guests et al. With no open speakers and feedback/crosstalk.

The UCA202 is a glorified sound card, but it's important for Skype type guests to get what is called a Mix-Minus. It also leaves the mixers USB free to just be what is recorded. I personally own three variants of one of these and bought two more for a friend. It's the best way to get audio from Skype or whatever into/out of a computer and into a mixer. Line level and decent connectors make it virtually perfect. Any quibbles I have over it are around the edges and not real issues for what we are doing. You could just use your computer's sound card's 1/8" stereo out and mic in. I think the UCA202 are better to the point I suggested them on my cheap list for the headaches they prevent and benefits they bring.

!

I have this basic case that works great. Easy to carry and fits the shape of the headset perfectly, so it's compact as well.

If you're willing to spend more there's this better carrying case that'll hold the breakout box and more cables along with the headset. I can't give an opinion on it but judging by the reviews it's a great product.

Also I found this backpack that seems to hold everything: the headset, breakout box, cables, camera, Move controllers, and DS4. It's cheaper than the deluxe case, but don't offer the nice made-to-fit molds of the deluxe nor the shape of the first case that fits the headset. Don't seem to be any reviews for it either, just the other varieties of backpack the same company makes for other devices, although those are rated highly.

Seems like all 3 are a great choice, just depends on how much you want to keep together, how much room you'll have on your trips, and what your ideal price is. Hope this helps!

The high gain is really only necessary if you have insanely high impedance, but the normal gain should be fine for the 650s. The balanced triodes means that each of the triodes in the tube will have the same gain through the connection. Could be nice assurance if you want to shell another $2. Low noise and microphonics is nice to have as well.

I do use that kind of a cable, but mostly because adding USB costs money on the Bifrost than just accepting with optical, and a much cheaper one (digital is digital) here. But if you're connecting out of your MBP, you'll need a mini-TOSLINK to regular optical cable (the headphone jack is an optical combo port), like this.

Glad to hear you enjoy them. I have the same pads and they're solid. :) to solve the headband issue, I just bought a little knit headband and it has helped a lot!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OF71WWO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Overall, I agree with your impressions, and it's exciting that you get to explore more options now! My second set is the Fostex T20rp Mk3's and they are absolutely NOT neutral headphones, but golly they are my definition of "FUN"! They have "dat bass" due to the planar drivers. But they also have a lot of clarity in the upper ranges, lacking a bit in the mid range. Look 'em up!

X2's would also be awesome for that set of "fun" cans. It depends on what you're looking for I guess. I also had 400i's for some time, and those had amazing mid and upper range clarity with soundstage separation.

Anyway, let us know how your journey continues!

Are you open to refurb options? They could save you some money in the long run. I'll assume no for right now.

AVR - Yamaha RX-V377 or Denon AVR-S500BT for $250. The Denon adds in Bluetooth if that is something important to you. However, you can't go wrong with either one.

Speakers - I would look at a 5.1 set since you're starting from scratch. That would give you a 5.1 right away meaning you would get all five surround speakers and a sub included. Since you're in an apt I think a sat set would be fine. I would look at these sets.

• Yamaha NS-SP1800BL $120 a entry level set but a great place to start. Keeps you well under budget.
  
  
• Dayton Audio HTP-3 $200 This set comes with a Dayton 12" sub so make sure you have room for it. If not they sell the same set with either the 10" or 8" sub too.
  
  
• JBL Cinema 510 $150 nice set with small sats and a small 6.5" sub. Great for small spaces but if you move to a bigger place you might have to upgrade at least the sub.
  
  You could also get a prepack which is an AVR and speakers in one package. The Yamaha YHT399UBL $350 is a good example of this.
  
  Don't forget the following when you order.
  
  
• Optical cable $6 to hook up the TV/cable box to the AVR.
  
  
• HDMI cables $8 to hook up the AVR to the TV and dvd/brp ect to AVR
  
  
• speaker wire $10 needed to hook up the speakers in the Dayon set. Not a bad idea to get in case the wires that come with the sets are not long enough for where you want to put your speakers.
  
  
• Subwoofer cable $12 needed if getting the Dayton set as I don't think this comes with the sub cable.

I would probably try to get a little cheap DAC for around $50 and then spend the $100 on headphones. The source matters.

​

This is a great little DAC that can be used on your computer and phone. I have one and love it!

​

DAC / Headphone AMP-

https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=sr_1_28_sspa?keywords=USB+DAC&qid=1564399240&s=gateway&sr=8-28-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSE1OSlVVMDFINk5WJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTE1ODI0MkdJVE5BUUtNRzBEMyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjI3MjgwT1Y1VzFXUzNaNE5GJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

​

Headphones -

The Status CB-1 for like $70

Audio Technica - MTH-40x - $99

Sony MDR-7506 - $89

​

The money you spend on the DAC / AMP is going to give you FAR FAR better performance than a spending a extra $50 on headphones and using them on a shitty, under-powered source. A better source lesser headphone will sound better than a great headphone on a shit source. However the under $100 headphones I posted are great quality and punch above their price. However if you just plug them into your phone or computer jack that probably won't sound all that great, nothing will. You need a DAC / Headphone amp for quality sound.

​

Enjoy your purchase whatever you decide.

the schiit fulla2 is $99 but does a lot for that price point. http://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-2

it can be used on your computer as a DAC & Amp for headphones, it can be just a DAC/preamp for powered speakers or just another headphone amp too. even has a 2nd usb input for power if your phone/tablet/whatever is low powered USB.

i havent used one yet, but a lot of great reviews out there about it. i actually just ordered one a few minutes ago though, so can finally get personal recommendation or not.



in general there are a lot of options around/in your $70 price range too.

a simple one from Cambridge for $75, comes in several colors too.
https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Headphone-Titanium/dp/B015JESWQA/ref=pd_sbs_23_26


this is one that has been around awhile and is very popular. it is $99 but
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Dragonfly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=pd_sbs_23_1

the FiiO e10k is another good option at $75. this version comes with some astell & kern/final audio in ears for $80. prob worth the extra $5 for those.
https://smile.amazon.com/Portable-Desktop-Headphone-ICP-AT1000-Headphones/dp/B076DVBNRP/ref=sr_1_12


another fiio, the Q1 which is a bit smaller than the e10k
https://smile.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-USB-DAC-Amplifier/dp/B0157DKAU4/ref=sr_1_9


this is a tube amp/dac/preamp. should be a bit "warmer" of a sound signature than other usb dac/amps. ive never used tubes (need to get one someday to see for myself...). you can also swap the tubes out for other ones to try for different sound signatures. again, never used tube amps but that is supposed to be part of the appeal i think.
https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Amplifier-Preamplifier-Integrated-Audio/dp/B0774669ND/ref=pd_sbs_23_46


the m50x are great all around headphones that are easy to power, so that makes it much easier to find something that fits your budget/needs.

I just got the 8323's this weekend. I really like them so far, but as I have kind of a huge head, the headband is a bit painful over time. I found this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8), which is said on head-fi to greatly improve comfort.

So far, the sound is great, the price is better, and I'm totally satisfied. I also listen to a wide range of music, and so far, super satisfied.

Link to head-fi's thread on 8323 comfort: http://www.head-fi.org/t/617416/extra-comfort-on-monoprice-8323

Thanks for sharing such a detailed step-by-step guide for everyone to see, u/jwilson0199 :D !

u/LordDaniel09, it's not really hard, but it does require some patients. Please be aware that doing any modification like this will void the warranty (in case you still have one). As for headbands, these seem to be a good fit by looking at them, but because we haven't personally tested them, take this suggestion with a grain of salt ;) . Also, these are only good if your headband cushion is ripped, and you want to cover it up for cosmetic reasons haha.

• https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Headband-Compatible-Technica-Headphones/dp/B07K85H6X9
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO

So I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask it, but I feel like /r/buildapc is pretty friendly. I have a set of these headphones that I find very comfortable and would like to use full time when I'm gaming. My current workaround has been using a normal gaming headset (with mic) around my neck while wearing the Phillips headphones. Would it be possible for me to buy a replacement aux cable like this one with an in-line mic, connect it to my pc with a splitter like this and have full functionality of both the headphones and new inline microphone?

It was a difficult choice for me to jump to the OP7 Pro, honestly. I really weighed what I was giving up and gaining between the two. The major points were:

• Wireless charging. I had to realize I only wirelessly charged at night on my nightstand. I loved that option, but it wasn't sometime I had the ability to take advantage of regularly.
  
  
• Expandable storage. I hate being limited to what comes on the OP7 Pro as far as storage goes, but I opted for the 12GB RAM/256GB storage option to help mitigate my storage loss (I had a 512GB SD Card in my V30 with less than half occupied). What I did gain is transfer speeds on the phone, though I haven't seen quite the increase over USB, but there are variables there I may not be accounting for.
  
  
• Headphone jack/Quad DAC. I love having a headphone jack if for nothing more than the option to use it. I'm not an audiophile, but I liked the option of using wired headphones. To that end, I bought a USB C to 3.5mm adapter with a DAC built in ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_EUfVDbT3SZK54) to make up for the loss of it. I also realized I'm almost exclusively Bluetooth when I'm not at home or stationary elsewhere.
  
  The smaller points were AOD, knock to wake (which the OP7 Pro has). There's no AOD proper, but it will display an AOD-like screen if you lift/move it.
  
  All-in-all, I'm very satisfied with the transition, and I think it's a proper upgrade despite losing some features. But, everyone has their needs, and the V30 is still such a good phone that I fully understand your decision.

If you are running Windows 10, then you probably need to adjust your sound settings to use the correct input (microphone) and output (headphones) jacks. Click on "Start > Setttings" (gear icon) and then go to "System". Once you are on the System Settings screen choose "Sound" in the left menu. You should see a drop-down menu to chose your "output device". Make sure that is set to something like "Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)" if you have a Realtek sound chip on your motherboard. It should say something like "Speakers" and NOT your monitor name, HDMI or "Digital Output". Then for the "input device" drop-down make sure it says "Microphone (Realtek High Definition Audio)" or something like that. You will only see the microphone choice if you have the microphone plugged into the back of your motherboard.

​

You need to have the headset plugged into the green and pink audio jacks on the back of your computer on the motherboard. Green is for the headphones (output) and pink is for the microphone (input). The splitter should have a little headphones symbol on the headphones side and a microphone on the microphone side. You have to plug the correct side of the splitter into the correct colored jack. If you don't have colors on your input jacks on your motherboard, then look for the headphones and microphones symbol like you can see on the headset adapter I posted earlier. Your motherboard manual may also tell you which port is which if you still have it.

​

Also, be sure to have your volume level turned up enough to hear the sound. This sounds stupid, but it has happened to the best of us. Also, you might need to get out of your game or close your web browser after changing the sound settings above for the sound to start working in them. Sometimes the game or app picks up the sound device when you launch it and will not switch to the new one until you close the game or app and start it again with the new sound settings in place.

​

Good luck and I hope this get it working for you finally.

Thanks for all the advice! I have finished my setup and I love it. Its tough to see in the pictures, but I have moved my desk about 10 inches away from the wall to give my speakers room to breathe. Also, like you said, the SA50 is more than enough to power my speakers; I have yet to get past about 1\3 on the volume dial.

My next purchase was going to be DAC but my plan was to get one that could connect to both my computer and my iPhone. After doing some research, I learned that Apple really does not want you to use an external DAC. This little article gives a workaround however. I was thinking about getting this peachtree DAC. Would you see any issue with connecting my computer via the optical input and my iphone via the USB input using an adapter?

If that's not going to work, I was just going get this dragonfly which has pretty universal amazing reviews. Again thanks for all resources and time. I would definitely not be as happy with my setup if I didn't find this sub.

I picked up a pair of M50xs for work, but my work laptop uses Realtek driver 6.0.1.6914 from 2013, and this just isn't keeping up at all with the quality of my 598s and Asus STX II audio card at home. Everything I've seen places these two headphones around the same in terms of quality, so I don't think its the headphones themselves. On this laptop, the sound is just....scratchy, I guess is the best word for it. A little muddy as well. Now that I've heard better, certain bassy songs are actually uncomfortable and distracting to listen to. The same music on my home setup sounds significantly better.

What I want to know is whether or not I can expect to hear an improvement if I grab a lower-end DAC/AMP like the Dragonfly, or if I'm going to need to push my budget higher. Is Realtek any good versus lower end options?

Craigslist freezer - we chose upright for vertical space. Chest freezer might work - but you would have to figure out how to hang in it.

Temperature controller - there are lots of options. This one is the Johnson 419. You plug it into the wall then plug the freezer into the female lead. It cycles the freezer on and off at the set temperature. There are cheaper options - but I had this one laying around. I'll link some suggestions below.

The fan is a computer fan with speed switch. I wired it to an old 12v wall wort I had laying around in the parts bin.

Meat hooks are just stainless hooks - again from amazon.



Temp controllers:
Johnson - https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sim_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SG7X9CB5Z0VYY8RM7EVB

If you're comfortable with electricity:
https://www.amazon.com/Lerway-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00BMLCGF8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133568&sr=8-2&keywords=temperature+control

Best deal:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Fermentation/dp/B015E2UFGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133568&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+control



Meat hooks:
https://www.amazon.com/Meat-Hooks-Inch-Pack-Pieces/dp/B0195CE08Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133886&sr=8-3&keywords=meat+hooks



Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Antec-TriCool-DBB-Cooling-3-Speed/dp/B00066ISES/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133824&sr=8-5&keywords=speed+fan+computer

I have never cared about having wireless earbuds. It's one more thing you have to charge (and the batteries will eventually die), the audio quality suffers because the DAC in the earbuds is typically crap, and with these new earbuds that are separate pieces it seems they would be very easy to lose. Imagine you're walking down a busy street, one of them pops out accidentally, lands in the road and immediately gets run over.

Most phones have nixed a headphone jack now, so you're honestly better off getting a decent USB DAC / headphone amp and a pair of in-ear monitors. For example:

Fiio K1 24-bit 96Khz USB DAC / Amplifier - $40
Works great, doesn't really drain your battery any more than you would listening to music normally. It's also tiny, light, and has a clip to attach to your clothing. Note that you'll need a USB-C OTG cable, which is another $5 or so.

KZ ZS10 Pro In-ear Monitors - $48.99
I have these, and they sound quite simply amazing. In-ear monitors of this quality were once very expensive, but now we can get them directly from China without a big brand name attached. They have a nice long cord that is replaceable, and they are very comfortable.

This is far less than the cost of the high end wireless earbuds...we're still under $100 total, and if you've never experienced 24/96 audio you don't know what you're missing. Tidal will stream at that quality level, but you probably only want to do that on Wifi. Alternatively, you can take FLAC files around with you on your phone, which is what I do. The whole setup is easy, lightweight, and cheaper than wireless while giving you amazing sound quality that you can never get with any wireless headphones.

If you have a crock pot you can buy a digital thermostat controller to use with it and turn it into a sous vide machine. Basically you fill up the crock pot with water, the device has a little probe you put in the water, and you plug the crock pot into this device, and the device into the wall. You set the temperature and it just switches the crock pot on and off based on the temperature you set. Since crock pots heat up from all directions the temperature stays pretty consistent throughout.

I also have used Ziploc vacuum pump bags with pretty good success. They do leak out some air over the long-term so they don't work as well for freezing things for a long time (still works pretty good though) but they work perfectly fine for sous vide in my experience. Less than $100 investment for the temperature controller, the hand pump and a bunch of extra bags.

So I got 2 different types-

• Earbuddyz 2.0 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BREFE4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• AhaStyle https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q2B3W6D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  I like the AhaStyle more because they're easy to take on and off as well as more discreet, but the Earbuddyz are more comfortable. The AhaStyle ones do come with a case which is super nice. Both styles stay in my ears without any problem.

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With regards to what I mentioned in an edit above, it's up to you how far you want the spending to go.

Like I said, I think the adapter sounds pretty good with my HD 6XX. Your headset will have a lower impedance than mine and should work even better. I just wanted to point out that it is debatable whether or not this accomplishes audiophile-grade sound.

If you're happy with this middle-of-the-road solution then that is fine. Maybe you'd also be just as happy using a cable like this plugged into your Dualshock 4. It would be both simpler and cheaper. Personally when it comes to videogames I don't worry as much about the quality. I reserve my full-on pickiness for movies and music. :D

>The headband padding gap isn't quite enough. Unlike the HD650 where I can't feel pressure on the top center of my head due to the padding gap, the HD800's padding is thin enough that once worn, it just compresses down like a normal headband, with pressure on the top center of my head.

My friend also has this problem when he tried my HD800, saying he prefers HD650 comfort while it's the opposite for me. Btw you can buy this to help solve that problem.


>The earpad material feels like cheap pool table felt. I find this odd considering its alcantara. I was hoping it would feel more velvety smooth like the Sony's fantastic F1 ecsaine, or even up to par with Beyer's velour. Although, not as bad as Philips X1/X2 chemical smell, prickly velour.

It's an expensive microsuede though and it does the job.

>Finally, the earcup depth is pretty shallow and they're almost too big in circumference. I'm finding my ears are pressed against the felt of the drivers and my jaw can get irritated by how big the earcups are. That's pretty YMMV due to head/ear size.

wat


There are hardly people who complain about HD800's comfort so I guess you're in the minority. IME, the HD800 is so freaking comfy.

And no I hope Sennheiser won't release new flagship.

Yep, the amplifier power in a dedicated sound card is superior to most onboard sound chips, so the volume will be increased. Headphones only sound as good as the sound card and source quality (e.g. bitrate). Make sure to configure the bitrate for your sound card to its maximum supported in the sound options as well, just in case.

For the adapter:

• If this is a headphone and microphone combined on a single 3.5mm audio jack, then a Y-Splitter like this is necessary. On the other hand, if using two separate headphone and microphone 3.5mm jacks that need to be a combined into one jack for a laptop, then a Y-Splitter like this is necessary. If already using a Y-Splitter, then perhaps the jacks do not correctly align, and so you would need to find a splitter that is compatible with your jack's pole pattern.

Oh man, my heart goes out to you having to move and set everything up all over again. But that will make your cord management easier than trying to tear up your current setup I’d imagine. I recently did mine with cable zip ties and the occasional twisties from bread bags and whatnot. And used clear tape and white speaker wire for my Atmos height speakers mounted above my TV on the wall, so they almost look professionally done rather than speaker wiring draped everywhere.

I now keep my PSVR in this hard case for $20 that I think is well worth it. And then wrap the cord that goes to the box around the case itself (or detach it entirely and then store it inside the case and plug it back in when I’m ready to play more VR). Looking forward to the PSVR2 that is rumored to have wireless/ranged options. And then I have this old PS3 Move Charging Base that I tuck away behind my TV stand, so I can charge my two Moves through my big powerstrip. And I also hide my AIM controller underneath the stand, and charge it via my PS4/XB1X/home theater receiver’s USB port whenever needed. I’m looking forward to a future where everything charges and connects wirelessly!! Good luck with your move!

kind of important ? Comfort is very important for a good gaming headset.

At the risk of sounding corny (ok, maybe I don't care), for less than $200 you can ascend beyond traditional 'gaming' headsets into the arena of quality headphones and microphones. Here is my typical shortlist of recommendations:

Open-backed:

• SHP-9500s + VModa BoomPro
  
  
• Fidelio L2 + VModa BoomPro
  
  
• Sennheiser 598 + Microphone
  
  Closed-back:
  
  
• ATH-M40x + Comfy Pads + Microphone
  
  
• Brainwavz HM9 + VModa BoomPro
  
  
• VModa Crossfade + VModa BoomPro
  
  This list is obviously not exhaustive, but does well to take comfort, ease of use, build quality, and fidelity into consideration. If you have additional questions, feel free to ask. Otherwise, /r/headphones can provide similar feedback and suggestions from within their daily Purchase Help Thread.

I'm wary about these services. I purchased a pair of custom fit earphones made by Zombie Eargear and they were horrible. I had to make moulds of my ears, send them in and wait for the earphones to arrive. This took weeks. They sounded fantastic and were well made and except for a fatal flaw. For some reason, they were made too shallow and the connector for the wire was put in an awkward spot that put pressure on that little cartilage piece in the front of my ear. After a few minutes, wearing them was agony.

I took detailed photos, indicated the areas where they hurt my ears, and sent them back to be reworked. I'm not sure what they did but it wasn't enough. All told, I paid like $200 for useless earphones from a company that seems to have folded shortly after. I guess other people had problems as well and their business model couldn't handle it.

Later, I got some super cheap memory foam sleeves that fit a pair of Shure earbuds I had previously bought and they're comfortable and sound fantastic. I recommend getting some regular high-quality earbuds and finding the proper tips.

These are the ones I got: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM and they fit on my Shure E2G earbuds.

Yeah, probably the dongle. It's got a great mic and connects well, but I'm sure the technology in a fully connected BT stereo system would be better. You can control a lot more of the phone stuff from those. It's on my wish list to get a touchscreen stereo installed, but I'm working on saving up for a house down payment right now.

The dongle is a this one: https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K which I'm just now seeing is $20 cheaper than when I bought it. LOL

Currently running an Audioquest Dragonfly DAC into a Blue Dot Mk IV tube amp. I primarily got the pair to drive my high-impedance Senn HD-650s (600 ohm).

Honestly the SB Z has a decent DAC, you probably shouldn't need to do anything there unless you are going the true audiophile route - I upgraded from onboard audio so I didn't have much of a choice lol. You may benefit from an external amp, though your headphones seem likely to be decently driven by the Z. I don't know that you'd get any more volume but you may get subjectively better sound.

I love my Little Dot, I'm a total tube convert and can never go back to digital. =P

I've got two builds ready for you right now. I went with a mITX form factor because it's smaller size should be more convenient, and I chose a black and white color scheme. The motherboard also has built in WiFi.


I wasn't sure how serious you are about your video recording, so I included enough hdd space for professional use. They've also got an ssd for your OS and some games.


The only difference between the two is that one has an i7-6700 and the other has an i5-6600. These should both be plenty for gaming, but the I7 has hyperthreading which would improve rendering times a lot, and the i5 is cheaper so that you could also afford to throw in a dac.


If you are really serious about video editing and recording I'd go for the i7, but if it's more of a hobby the i5 should be fine.


The onboard audio on the motherboard is okay. It's not the best, but it's not the worst. If you go for the i7 you could probably deal with it, but if you choose the cheaper i5 I'd recommend getting a dac to use with your e12, such as a dragonfly black


Here's the actual builds:


i5: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant


i7: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant


I hope I could help.

hmm, I have both of those for years now and never had this issue even with extensive usage (for a period of time, I had been using them for 6+ hours a day, even 12+ hours on weekends). I don't think there's anything you can with the Logitech pair, but I replaced the Steelseries earpads right away as they were too shallow for me and hurt my ears.

Replacing the Steelseries pads is no different than replacing it on other common headphones. You just pop them off and slip the new pads on. There is even a notch on the plastic cup so it's even easier to do than other headphones.

I use these on them: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFDX4YO/ref
They also have pleather versions of you don't like velor or don't want to be arsed with cleaning the lint off the velor from time to time, but it is definitely cooler (temperature wise) and a lot more comfortable than the pleather version.

Anyway, they are a little tight (don't be afraid to apply force when putting these pads on) but fit perfectly without any trimming or anything. As I've said, all you have to do is use the notch on the cup and just spin the lip of the pad on the cup. If you are having issues, I suppose I could do a video or something, but should be simple enough.

EDIT: oh, and as for your headband, there are "replacements" for those too that you can snap over like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A
http://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO

My personal favorite is the SMSL M3.

Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O
Z Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QwD5Byp1AU

It's basically the E10K but with a wider variety of options, and (in my opinion) a cleaner sound. The E10K was a gift and a great starting option, but I personally appreciate the M3 more.

welcome to the hi-fi rabbit hole! here, you can spend thousands (if not tens of thousands) of dollars on things with barely (if any) discernible differences! You're correct in assuming a dedicated DAC/Amp would help here - all 3.5mm jacks drive electrical signals which, in the case of headphones, directly drive the drivers which produce sound waves your ears can hear. The DAC in most high end smartphones, motherboards, etc are pretty good - but audio equipment is often skimped on to hit a price point.

I'd highly recommend a mini USB DAC with a decent driver like the audioquest dragonfly which balances the price/performance/convenience equation really well, imo. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

You may want to read about soundstage vs imaging in headphones. Soundstage being the ability of the headphones to reproduce a sound as being far away from your ears, imaging being the ability to reproduce sounds happening on the "x axis", if you will, with pinpoint accuracy.

Imagine the sound of a fly buzzing from your left ear to your right ear. Good soundstage representation will allow you to tell how far is that fly, while good imaging will let you hear where that fly is at any given moment.

Now, the SHP9500 didn't impress me either, and you have a point on unrealistic expectations. I know for sure my first "good" headphones didn't blow me away.

That being said, your laptop soundcard may be dragging them down a bit. I wouldn't recommend anything more than a Fiio K1 for easy to drive headphones. It's a tiny piece of hardware, but it's way better than any integrated soundcard.

I don't have any experience with the PC360, but both the 598 and the AD series are great headphones. If you plan to use the primarily for gaming, any of the ADx00 would get my vote.

im not sure what case you have, but in most scenarios wherever you plug in the headphones there'll be a port just like it with a little mic symbol near it or it'll be colored pink or green, most likely on the back of your case. If you need the splitter cable i'm pretty sure this is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

I'm not really a pro on this topic, i just encountered this issue a bit ago. I recommend getting a PC headset with a USB rather than the console-familiar 3.5mm jack, as the mic/headphone quality will be a little nicer.

I tend to stick to Nyko charging docks for all our consoles - well designed and reliable. For our PS4 Pro I originally got the Nyko DS4 Charging Block: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1WR47G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When we got the PSVR I added a block for the Move controllers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVJ1VHR/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They all lock together as one unit with a single power cord. I looked at but didn’t like the tower options. I wanted to keep my headset protected and dust free when I’m not using it so opted for this case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LB4KHF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The case is great - drop the headset and close the cover. No need to unplug anything because it closes nice band snug without bothering with the zipper.

The Behringer Xenyx Q502USB in your proposed setup doesn't have a clean way on its own to choose where the microphone signal goes: to your headphones, to your PS4, and/or to your computer. The microphone input on that mixer will always go to the headphones AND to the main output along with whatever game audio it's being mixed with. You can turn the output level of the main output (or the headphone output, or the USB output) to zero to mute it, but that will mute both the game audio AND the microphone.

A lot of folks just mix on their streaming PCs (through OBS and/or other applications) and route audio in software, while controlling it on an external device like a Stream Deck: https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/stream-deck

That has the advantage of fewer cables, less potential analog line level interference, and fewer oops moments when you've accidentally adjusted a knob on the mixer (like the pan, balance or EQ knobs) that almost never needs to be adjusted.

If you want to use the Behringer as just a mixer with your console and headphone, you'd plug your game console or PC game output into the Tendak 4K, and grab audio from the Tendak 4K's 3.5 mm analog audio output with a 3.5 mm male stereo to dual 6.35 mm TRS cable like this: www.amazon.ca/6-35mm-Speaker-Stereo-Suitable-Fancier/dp/B07QX7FVZK/, which plugs into Lines 2/3 or Lines 4/5 on the Beringer. The AT microphone would connect to the only place it can through a three-conductor XLR cable.

The headphone and main out from the Beringer now both contain the mixed audio from your AT microphone and your game, but at different volume levels controlled on the Beringer.

Your Artis 3 TRRS stereo + microphone jack would need to be split into a stereo input and a microphone output with something like this: www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4

The stereo input would connect to the Beringer's Phones output through a 3.5 mm to 6.35 mm TRS adapter: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Audio-Stereo-Headphone-Adapter/dp/B01HYXK0CI

The main audio output from the Beringer would go to a line level input on your PC. In your OBS inputs (and system audio mixer, and any other software audio mixers), you'll want to make sure that the audio input from the Beringer isn't being sent out again over HDMI, or you'll have some bad feedback issues when you're gaming and streaming from the same PC. You'll also want to make sure OBS is NOT grabbing audio from the Elgato Game Capture, otherwise you'll get the game audio from the HDMI capture, and a slightly delayed game audio mixed with your microphone inputs from the Beringer.

Alternatively, you can skip all the cables between the Beringer and the computer, and between the Beringer mixerand the Tendak 4K by using the Beringer software to route microphone and game audio (which is available from the Elgato Game Capture anyway) between the computer and the mixer.

As you may have noticed, we're still controlling a good portion of the audio mix on the streaming computer, and it's unclear what value has been gained over plugging the Artis 3 into the computer, and plugging the microphone into a phantom power box and then to the computer.

I've been researching portable dac/amps and here are a few to check out.

Fio K1- Its one of the most popular and well reviewed portable dacs at the moment. 24-bit/96khz dac/amp that is supposed to be well balance with a low noise floor for about $40.

Dragonfly Red / [Dragonfly Black] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7L3I14/ref=dp_sp_detail?psc=1) . All the reviews and impressions I've read for these devices are that the Black not bad, but Red completely blows it away in terms of sound quality but is also about double the price at around $200.

SMSL IDEA / Sabaj Da2 - Made by the same factory and using the same chipset under different brand names. These have also been getting rave reviews due to being sub 100 dacs but have the sound quality of much more expensive dacs. Also both come with usb-c otg cables. Both seem to be more favorited than the Dragonfly. Both can be found on amazon with the IDEA being a little more expensive than the Da2.

Things to keep in mind are that there are some glitches when some of theses are connected to android phone which have work arounds.

*Hissing or screeching when plugging into phone: Start music first and then plug in dac. Changing the usb mode to midi works for some people as well.

To take full advantage of have a usb dac alot of people recommend this app: USB Audio Player PRO

Also the inline remote controls and mic on headphones won't work with these.

Maybe if you got some cheap pair. I have a pair of their "higher end" ones and i am pretty happy with them. But then again I purchased a pack of these.

I would highly recommend getting a pack of those for any pair of earbuds you have (unless they are super fancy and molded to your ears). They are basically ear-plug material that fit snug in your ear, cancel out some outside sound, making your earbuds sound better.

Yeah, both the normalized matrix and windows sound loudness equalizer basically does what AVR Recievers have with a day/evening/night setting..... Again, you're throwing filters and tons of random options for the regular people out there, but you wanted to get the best quality.

I don't think it makes a big difference, or any at all but make in sound/config that your speakers are small. I've messed with that config for years and it doesn't work like a proper AVR does but it's worth a shot.

If you do want your volume up, where that matrix was use the clipping but I just ran a test and man I had to blast my AVR's AMP that could blow out so many headphones it's not even funny with the 50x compared to the 650's, they are a bitch to drive and the onboard sound which I have the same chipset and by the #'s looks like yours could be better, but it won't matter because onboard has always sucked.

You can go cheap and get your very basic ones that will do the job but with the atx-50's I wouldn't expect a massive difference because even with my wall wart amp I wish I could push it just a bit more, but these will help 100% for sure and also if you have a phone/laptop etc...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/

I'd save the money you would spend on that though and put it to something that will last you the next 15 years.

I'll make another post about MadVR

+1 for AirPods. I’ve owned two pairs of Jaybirds and they both broke at about 6 months. My AirPods (with the silicone hooks mentioned in comment above) have been a magical combo. The “tap to pause” is great, and I love the fact they charge in their case. Best Apple product in a while and so far (9 months) they have worked flawlessly. Here’s an amazon link for the silicon adapter I also found to be essential to keep the AirPods in my ears while running. Wish I didn’t need these... and maybe you won’t for your ears.

ear buddyz Amazon link

I have both the headphones but I prefer the sr80is more for the sound stage and the sound signature. The bass is controlled, the mids upfront, and the highs bright but not harsh. These are a little bit uncomfortable when I first got them, you can bend the band out a little and you can get cushions for the band if you want. These pair are lighter on the head compared to the m50s

The m50's highs sound harsh to me, the mids a bit recessed and the bass a bit boomy. For comfort I replaced the stock m50 pads with velour pads. These pair are a little heavy on the head and the clamp on them is pretty tight but will loosen and be more comfortable with use.

What it really comes down to is if you want the headphones to be open back or closed depending on your needs. Also your preferred sound signature.

I listen to mostly rock, jazz, alternative, indie and some classical if that helps any.

It's a very simple mod: http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405565300&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+headband

Basically, I thought the Audeze padding would have been really good and that I wouldn't have to worry about hotspots, but that wasn't the case. Luckily, I had this (used with my Grado 325is) and it fit pretty well. The last buttons can snap together. If you don't mind the aesthetics (or lack thereof), it really, really helps with comfort.

I started off just plugging the cable into the headphone jack on my PC and it worked. But I got a fair bit of hiss and electronic interference so I got a DAC. An SMSL m3. Connect that to my pc via USB and just the headphones into that. Cleans everything up and sounds great.

The X2's are great headphones, really comfy and some really good low end. So I can imagine dance music sounding great on them.

I found this from this article and is by far the DAC that suits my taste the best, both looks wise, as well as price-wise, but look at the article, and see if there's something that's more you. (Also you might need an OTG cable, please contact me when you decided on the DAC, and need help choosing an OTG cable)

Edit: There's also this somewhat expensive USB-C DAC, which if you can justify the cost, might be the better choice!

This is the project I'm completing this weekend

Just FYI, a lot of the controls that are listed on the web sites are either out of production, or just not available. After trying to chase down a few products that are still listed on websites but not available, I found these two essentials to be the best value with rock-solid reputations:

Temp Control

Humidity Control

I called about a dozen hydroponics stores looking for the Titan EOS2, but it's discontinued and every place that had them in stock no longer does. The LTL is comparable, and the folks who make it are reputable.

The humidifier that everyone pretty much agrees on is this guy

Is it a single jack? or split for audio/mic? I'm unfamiliar with those headphones, but I use 3.5mm jacks for 1 of my headphones, it requires 2; one for audio, another for mic, you might need to buy a splitter.

That being said have they ever worked on the computer? Cause if they have without a splitter, you wouldnt need one.

As for testing without realtek software, headsets are literally plug and play. If it was the USB Atlas, the driver would be included (TBH, I probably should have asked the connection before I recommended removing realtek, but reinstalling drivers are always a good option).


edit: A more user friendly splitter

Never heard it personally, but here are some useful observations:

• 100 mW power per channel given 32 ohm load isn't super high, but it's relatively good for the price. For reference, the Fiio K1 (similarly priced ~$40) outputs 35 mW given the same load.
  
  
• The biggest issue is the 5% THD... this is undoubtedly in audible range. I'm guessing this is in max volume, which is not very likely for somebody to be listening in, but 5% is a lot.
  
  
• This appears to be amp only, no DAC. Even at a budget price-point, I think that having a DAC accompany an amp is necessary for good performance. Without a DAC, you'll most likely have to double-amp in some occasions (i.e. you're amplifying an already amplified signal, resulting in the distortion of the first amp being amp'd as well).
  
  With this said, I'd recommend going for a Fiio K1 or saving up for a more powerful DAC and amp. Depending on your headphone, you might not even need an amplifier.

3 4 Suggestions :

Creative Aurvana Live New is outside of your budget but there's some used (Like New) on Amazon that's pretty close to $50. They say over-ear but it might be on-ear if you have large ears.


Panasonic HTF600 Warm and bassy. Price has been high on these for some reason. I bought these over the summer for under $30. Still a good buy at $40.


Monoprice 8032 All about the mids, decent bass. Headband got uncomfortable after extended use. Might need to invest in a headband like this


Limitless Creations HP3BK Forgot about these, $40. Rec'd by /u/keanex.

1. Shower more
   
   
2. At least for the headband, a headband pad like this would help since you can remove and wash it.
   
   For the ear pads, high quality pleather pads like Brainwavz pads would last quite a bit longer and would be easier to clean. Not to mention more comfortable.

So again, M40x's are a great choice, especially with HM5 angled pads. For some reason, they're cheaper and sound better than the M50x. Use those particular pads - they'll give you better soundstage and comfort. If your source has a strong amp, you could also try the Beyerdynamic DT770's.

You can find them on Amazon.

[Brainwavz Angled Memory Foam Earpad] (https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00ZY8PGJI)

But remember if you like the current sound, don't change them. Changing to above mentioned will have impact on bass but will be more comfortable and have better better lows). Just don't put the velour pads.

Sure thing.

Game sound through headphones

1. The Dualshock 4 controller has a 3.5mm jack built in, so all you really need to do is plug your headphones into the controller, hold down the "PS" button, go to audio, then select the option to output all audio to headphones. You can also adjust the volume within this menu. That's all you need to hear the game volume through your headphones. This is the simplest way to do it imo.
   
   
2. Plug your headphones directly into your TV's headphone jack/aux out/audio out and adjust volume on tv. You will probably need something like this if your headphone's cable isn't long enough.
   
   If you want to use your headphones to hear the game noise and talk to friends with a mic then you have two options.
   
   
3. Get a splitter like this, and a mic like this. Plug splitter directly into controller. Plug headphones into aux side of splitter, and plug mic into the mic side. Output all audio to headphones through the PS menu. That should be it.
   
   
4. Plug your headphones into your Tv's audio out and your mic directly into the controller. Go to settings>devices>audio devices and output all audio to tv. If you unplug your mic, this setting will reset, and you'll have to go back and do it again.
   
   Hope this helped.
   
   

I wouldn't recommend fm transmitter if you want good quality audio. Used the fm for years with ok but as you dive around town you will find that there is a lot of interference and the need to always find a better station.

I would stick with one of the bt units. I've
usedhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJFGE0K/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1486718990&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=aux+bluetooth+adapter+for+car&dpPl=1&dpID=41V1j0H06bL&ref=plSrch

Works great on calls as well.

Monoprice 8320 + Decent Foam Tips = About the best you can do around 20.

Try to find something else in the Link on the side with 7.5 sound quality under 60 bucks

Edit: Of course the tips are optional, but to me they really compliment the great cheap 7 dollar earbud that doesn't come with any accessories.

I have the BT ones, used them daily for about a year now and they are great. They haven't broken and the charge has kept. They are a little bass heavy, but you know, they are razer. The only thing I would suggest is getting new ear buds. Because the driver housing is made of metal they kept falling out so I got these, they work like ear plugs, where they expand to fit your ear.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002NUJ2RM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WshLAb8VBSXWQ

Other than that they are good BT earphones.

Currently bidding on an Audio-Technica ATH-M40x headphones and would love to replace the cushions when I get it for hygienic purposes. I also heard that the OEM cushions are not the most comfortable to keep on for over 3 hours. As my main intent is too use them for listening to recorded lectures for 2-4 hours at a time and music listening, I want to replace them with something comfortable. I was thinking about the Brainwavz Replacement Memory Foam Earpads for Large Over the Ear Headphones, Dark Red. Some reviews state that the size of them will reduce the bass making the music flat. If anyone has these can they comment or give alternatives that they use?

EDIT: I'm not an audiophile, just want good sounding music with long wear comfort. If the sound change wont be noticeable to a casual user then I wouldn't mind a little loss of bass.

+1 for HM5's. I have used the pleather and the angled pleather and they are both great for these cans. I find the angled a bit better comfort wise. Although the red HM5's look stunning on the m50's in my opinion.

To my ear the M40X is the superior set as well. Might I also recommend these supremely comfortable earpads.

Pretty good mic. I bought these this week, and I have to say it's the best headset I've had in a long time, if not ever. Great sound, good seal around the ears, minimal external noise, lightweight (like they aren't kidding when they say "Cloud"), really comfy on the ears too, and I got a large head and equally large ears. Super comfy. The only thing bad about it is the inline soundcard. The 7.1 is a little meh, else it's pretty good.

This is one of those headsets with a 4-pin 3.5mm, so I'd recommend getting a splitter if you have a good soundcard that you'd rather use. I bought this one and it does the job perfectly, though it's a little short altogether, but fine if you use your front panel ports.

That was a concern for me as well. It hasn't bothered me enough yet to do it (since I haven't played music other than the game music yet since I completed it), but the only solution I could come up with was to use a separate USB sound card for music. Have my music player play through that card, then use a headphone mixer (something like this) to mix game sounds and the music source into my headphones. That would give me sound effects and music, but the transducer would only see game sounds.

If it bugs me enough I'll spend a bit more for the parts and add that to the chair. :)

The AirPods also suck for my ears, I find them to fit much better with the foam tips. But I also have a pair of EarBuddyz 2.0 for when I exercise with my Airpods. I wouldn’t trust these foam tips while running. I just love how these foam tips can stay on while in the charging case which is a huge plus in my eyes. Something like the EarBuddyz cannot do that.

Link to the EarBuddyz 2.0 :

https://www.amazon.com/EarBuddyz-Accessories-AirPods-Headphones-Earphones/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=VF6OOAL3H4BE&keywords=earbuddyz+2.0+apple+airpods&qid=1557173437&s=gateway&sprefix=earbudd&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I think the issue with just recommending a single model is music listening like preference is rather personal and varies among people. Headphones have different profiles, some place emphasis on bass or highs, others are completely neutral (some people find neutral sounds off for instance due to years listening to a certain profile). You may want to have a look at r/headphones, there's handy guides in the sidebar including an interactive questionnaire that can help select suggestions.

I personally use this DAC and an
HD 598 CS. The DAC isn't strictly needed to be clear, I mainly use it to switch between set of speakers and headphones easily.

If by earphone you mean in ear buds then I can't really say I have a good suggestion, I just use a standard bluetooth pair of anker which are acceptable. I don't like having expensive earbuds, drives up cost if/when they get lost.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OLKV5LI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Generally speaking I’m not a huge fan of brainwavez for higher end stuff but these pair really well with M40X and fit your budget. That’s a combo that a lot of people recommend. They’re really not bad at all for the price. If you ever move up higher I’d recommend sticking with leather for acoustic reasons (inner walls at least if you go with hybrids).

Ok so I need some help. I need a device that will allow me to connect multiple speakers to one device. I already have this but I recently got a new sub and I believe this device doesn't put enough power to the sub, because when I play a song I can feel the sub moving but it doesn't produce enough sound to be heard no matter how high I turn the volume up.

The device will need to be able to connect three different speaker sets together. For example I have a logitech 2:1 system (that I would like to still use), a pair of Rosewill speakers, and now a new sub that I need to connect to my PC. Thank you!

Edit: Just an FYI, I have 3mm to 1/4 adapters, and RCA to 1/4 adapters already.

So I'm pretty set on going with the Sennheiser HD 598 and this cool little DAC I found called an AUDIOQUEST - DRAGONFLY V1.2

I feel these will ge the job done very well. What do y'all think?

• Budget - $200 - $400 USD for both headphones and an amp+dac (if needed).
  
• Source - A desktop PC and laptop. Nothing special about them.
  
• Requirements for Isolation - Does not matter
  
• Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear, full size, open. Something comfortable, that I can wear for looooong periods. I wear glasses and can't find a pair that would help.
  
• Tonal balance - Something a little bass-y. See preferred music for a better udnerstanding. I like a good kick when the bass hits but something that also provides very good highs for games and such.
  
• Past headphones - Logitech G930.
  
• Preferred Music - I listen to anything electric/techno/big room/rock/metal/rap/country/ANY TYPE OF MUSIC I LISTEN TO
  
• Location - USA

Can't speak on the 6S since I don't have the phone, but I've found the sound a lot better on my OP7Pro compared to my OP3. I use to have to run Viper4AndroidFX on my OP3 to get it to where I thought sounded good. With OP7Pro I don't have any additional equalizer other than stuff built into PowerAmp.

This is the USB-C -> 3.5mm Adapter I use. Look for one that mentions one of those phones (Huawei P20 Pro/Mate 10 Pro/Mate 20 Pro, Motorola Moto Z/Z Force, OnePlus 6T, Xiaomi Mi 8/Mix 2). All those phones support audio pass-through for the adapter. There is two adapters out there right now. One that does pass-through and one that has a DAC built-in. Normally the ones with the built-in DAC are not great unless you go to the high-end ones like the Hidizs Sonata HD.

Then I have Dolby Atmos set to None and in Poweramp I have DVC and Hi-Res Output on

A quick google appears to be if you have the Rear Seat Entertainment (RSE) then the aux is in the rear under a flap on the center console.

That’s where mine is on my Sport 06, but I have the tv screens and DVD player.
It was a must have feature for getting such an old car, but I wanted one for a while.

I then purchased one of these and it works great.Bluetooth Adapter

Mine has two Aux, one has the Satellite radio on it, so not sure if you have a “Sat” button and can hook into that?

Good luck, nice car.

If you post a link to the pads you want, we may help you identify them.
They are usually the replacement pads for another headphones like the brainwavz hm5, the most popular ones because they are comfortable and fit on a variety of headphones

Do you have a tip ring ring sleeve cable right now?

As others have said. The best way for this is to use an interface like a scarlet 2i2 or something similar.

Otherwise you need to figure out how your computer is sending audio out of the Jack and how it's wanting the audio back in the Jack.

You'll most likely need to get an adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jjFnDbZMF975V and then run the cables to the appropriate spot.

Don't be surprised if you get some wonderful buzzing in the audio. To avoid that, you guessed it. Get a better audio interface.

>Are you confident that this could be the solution?

Yes, this is the purpose of an AMP, and all portable DACs have built in AMPs since they are needed for it to work. A portable DAC will connect over USB and output over 3.5mm. A portable AMP will take a 3.5mm in and output over another 3.5mm connector.

 

Portable DAC & AMP: Fiio K1 (75mW @ 16 Ohms) $39.98

Much more powerful one: Fiio Q1 (190mW @ 32 Ohms) $69.99

 

Portable AMP only: Fiio A1 (78mW @ 16 Ohmes) $27.99

More powerful one: Fiio A3 (450mW @ 16 Ohmes / 270mW @ 32 Ohmes) $59.99

http://www.amazon.com/Audioquest-DragonFly-Preamp-Headphone-Version/dp/B00H00VLZQ

This Dragonfly 1.2 is the standard in your price range. It regularly goes on sale for under $100 here in the states. Some DACs are considered a little better or worse in that price range, but you could do worse for the money. Schiit fulla is another contender at $80, and there are a few other others that could deserve consideration like the Creative E series:
http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Headphone-Amplifier-Integrated-Smartphones/dp/B00J2JATL0?ie=UTF8&keywords=creative%20dac&qid=1465356999&ref_=sr_1_7&s=electronics&sr=1-7 (goes on sale for $35 here)

http://www.amazon.com/Creative-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B00J79KNPM?ie=UTF8&keywords=creative%20dac&qid=1465356999&ref_=sr_1_4&s=electronics&sr=1-4

These are some of simplest solutions. Plug and play. You could also grab a cheap DAC and a separate, and more powerful Headphone amp if needed.

Can confirm.

I have a set of hyper x cloud ii headphones.
They are pretty awesome.

One note: they have a 4 contact single plug. (integrated audio and microphone)
This works fine for most phones, consoles, and laptops with a single audio jack.
My desktop pc has separate audio jacks for audio and mic though.

I also bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C/
Splits the single plug to two. Does a great job.

I have 10 mos left on my warranty, so nothing. :) BUT go to miata.net and check out the NC sections on the forum. THere is power, maintenance, sales, top care (which as a PRHT we have certain things to lube, etc) and lots of great info. I am doing the Goodwin Super Q exhaust and the tune and that's probably it. That way I can convert back to stock easily enough to sell it. There is a very very clean PRHT here in town for sale with low miles but he's done a ton of aftermarket and I think that is why he can't sell it. Good price too.

edit - I did buy this (speaking of bluetooth) and it is fantastic! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to buy a headset that is audiophile-on-a-budget approved, get this set of headphones for $16 and use this $30 mic. Bam, there's a $46 headset that sounds really good. If you want to get fancy and make it incredibly comfortable, toss these guys on for another $27-ish.

The KSC75 is also amazingly good for its price, and just in general.

I am new to the IEM world although I hate tangled cables...I live and respect good sound. I just picked up a pair of KZ ZS3’s and honest sky they sounded like sh$t on the 3a. I almost returned then u til I plugged them into my sons iPhone 7 and then I was pretty amazed. Not sure how much you know but the ZS3’s are the poor man’s entrance to IEM. I was wondering about getting the yinyoo Bluetooth cable because I just absolutely hate cables. Thoughts?

Would the 3a sound better with this in your opinion? Have you personally tried it?
https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT

Edit: my next dilemma is should I keep the ZS3’s or step up to something better? I love boomy bass, but these seem muddy at times. Treble is overpowering as well.

Hidizs Sonata HD or Razor makes one too. Google makes one as well for the Pixel phone.

The Hidizs has a surprisingly decent DAC for being so small, and drives my 45ohm ER4XRs much better than my iPhone.

Edit: the Hidizs also comes with a unique adapter that is usb-a male to usb-c female. It seems like it may work perfectly for your use-case. Here’s a link:

HIDIZS Portable Headphone Amplifier USB Type C DAC Headphone Amp for Android/Windows/MacOSX System Smartphone Laptop (Mark II) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2DTTGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mbLoDbH6T1XKR

I use these and love 'em. Unfortunately can't put them in the case but easy enough to slip on and off and they fit snuggly and comfortably in my ear.

Just bought hd598s, sound pretty good but I'm having a few issues.

• If i connect the headphones to the back of my computer (put it together myself) I get a constant buzzing sound in both ears, so thats a no go.
  
• If I plug them into the front, they dont plug into the port very well so sometimes i cant hear out of the right ear, or the right ear gets a loud buzzing (both of these things are very annoying)
  
  Anything i can do to fix these issues? I know it's not the headphones cause they work properly on other things like my iphone or other computer. Friend told me i should get this and my problems would go away
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP5JHHI/ref=pd_cp_0_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1ZXVXHW24T1W1H38WJW5
  
  Issue is I'm kind of strapped for cash, also need a mic which will probably cost me about 50. Any solutions?

Sorry for the late response, all this information is overwhelming. Trying to get a sense of what i should do, was looking for something easy or straight forward but it would seem as though Microsoft wants to make everything hard. If i were to be connecting separate headphones and mod mic to the xbox controller i would need a mic/audio splitter like this one? https://www.amazon.com/KingTop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531147301&sr=8-3&keywords=Headphone+Mic+Splitter

My question then becomes is the audio or mic performance going to be sacrificed going through the splitter? Thank you for all your help again.

Nice! My buddy actually just got the 400i and really seems to be enjoying them coming from his dt 770's.

It took me about 2 years to finally get my he-400's comfortable enough for extended wear sessions. That metal band across the top with minimal padding was a poor design choice. Glad they decided to redesign them because the drivers are incredible for the price.

HERE are the ear pads I now use (similar to the LCD-2). So worth the money.

And HERE is the headband for extra padding

I think you might need something like what I will link to below on your newer PC that does not seem to have a headset port but instead two seperate Mic and headphone jacks.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B00Y4663GG

Are you SURE the USB does nothing? That seems like the better solution if you can get that working. Does it have an input where you are supposed to perhaps plug the 3.5 cable into it first or something? Does anything happen when it's plugged in?

If you need a basic Starter AMP/DAC, [FiiO K1] (https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG) or [Schiit Fulla] (http://schiit.com/products/fulla)

If you want a Better starter AMP/DAC when you get better headphones in the future and possibly want speakers as well, [FiiO E10K] (https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=pd_sim_23_21?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LP3AMC2&pd_rd_r=MNNRBCB735A2MXBD3XHA&pd_rd_w=SUoRO&pd_rd_wg=3Gad4&psc=1&refRID=MNNRBCB735A2MXBD3XHA), [SMSL M3] (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481332017&sr=1-1&keywords=smsl+m3), [Schiit Fulla 2] (http://schiit.com/products/fulla-2) or [Micca Origen+] (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)

EDIT: SMSL M3 can drive passive speakers, though the Micca Origen+ can drive powered speakers if that helps

You won't regret it! Its amazing! The auto pairing thing is life changing! Also get some Airpods earclips to secure them to your ear while running or exercising.

EarBuddyz 2.0 Apple Airpods and EarPods Covers and Hooks Attachment for iPhone Earphones Headphones Earbuds - Clear (2 Pairs)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j9zJAbJPFR76F

Another accessory i bought: (see various colors):

PodSkinz AirPods Case Protective Silicone Cover and Skin for Apple Airpods Charging Case (Diamond Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XG6P444/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_T-zJAbWXAWWCJ

If your headset has a connector with three stripes you can plug it into your computer's headphone jack if you just want to use them as headphones, but if you want to use the speaker as well then you'll need an adapter like this. There might be better ones out there, this is just the first result on amazon.

Watch Craigslist for a decent 5.1 system and a receiver.
I found a Denon AVR-1804 and a Boston Acoustic 5.1 System for 225 total on Craigslist.
the digital audio cable you are looking for is this one

does your PC have digital audio out as well? it may be worth getting a card with that because that would probably be the easiest and cheapest way to have speakers hooked up to a TV, PS3 and your PC with digital audio from PC -> receiver, PS3 -> receiver, and receiver -> TV.
Im pretty sure that some of the higher end logitech speakers have a digital out as well. these appear to though it is hard to tell

I would purchase either Audioquest’s Dragonfly Black @ $99 USD or Dragonfly Red @ $199 USD. They’re a USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp. I own the Red and love it! It’ll improve the sound quality and drive your cans better!

Here’s the link Amazon for the Black:

AudioQuest DragonFly Black v1.5 Plug-in USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zbm3CbXXB9HTY

If it fits your budget, the Red gives you more bang-for-the-buck in my opinion. They’ll detail the differences in description.

I just got from amazon. Fit the m40x perfectly and make them so much more comfortable. But not everyone agrees with the sound. Some people think changing pads ruin the m40x. IMO there's a slight decrease in bass. But I think the comfort and increase of soundstage is worth it.

I'm not sure if there's a lot of quality headphones in this price range, but this might help.

Alternatively, you may want to look into headphone DACs/Amps, such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-DAC/dp/B0189EVGAG

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2

http://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-2

They should help with the volume. You could try the free software Peace Equalizer and increase the "preamp" value (be careful, it may cause severe clipping).

I'm going to assume you're talking about the HE400S. I'm currently running a pair with the Schiit stack and I think it's a good improvement over just running it straight. By far the biggest improvements came from replacing the stock pads and the grill mod. Pop the plastic rings off of the outside of the cups, and take off the thin sheet of cloth. Then pick up these. Those pads are really a game changer, and I think you'll get a bigger improvement from those two things for 30 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MpGXrePD4JCm8

I got one of these for my 2008. Mounted the control on the left side of the center console. It's been fantastic so far. Play Pause Track Forward and Back, starts up and pairs automatically when your car turns on, and doesn't interfere with the existing hands free phone system built into the Prius. You can use your steering wheel volume controls to adjust the audio as you would any other AUX source. It's by far the best balance of functionality, features, and affordability that I've found.

An amp will definitely fix the volume and bass impact, but most don't have a mic input so you'll have to get a splitter for the boompro. If you just want to use it with the PC the E10k acts as an external soundcard as well as amp, but the A3 has a battery so you could use that with your phone on the go. If you want virtual surround a soundcard like a Soundblaster Z or external soundcard like the Xonar U7 would work.

Game engines use their own 3d stereo sound processing so virtual 7.1 isn't really worth much. I would recommend getting an external sound card (DAC/AMP). I would recommend this http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOQUEST-DRAGONFLY-V1-2-USB-DAC/dp/B00H00VLZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426275640&sr=1-1&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly or this http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426275640&sr=1-6&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly

You could also peak around /r/headphones. There's a ton of discussion there about these things. There's no upper limit to quality or what you can spend on Digital to Analog Converters and Amplifiers.

You could also just search amazon for sound cards, but if you're only using it for headphones make sure you're not wasting money on cards that have speaker outputs. The one's I recommended aren't cheap, but you will appreciate the quality.

My eternal struggle.
I've settled on these, Brainwavz Blu-100. The sound quality and comfort is good. The battery life is fine for me, but I plug them in when I'm at work and overnight. They do run out a little quickly otherwise. They also seem to fail after a few months, BUT I've gotten them replaced, fairly hassle free, through their 1-year warranty. I'm on a third pair in this way over the past two years, free.
I'd be willing to spring for a more expensive pair with a better battery life, but only if they came with Comply eartips and a similar warranty.

From my current knowledge, there's not a huge difference between integrated sound and buying a separate sound card anymore. So, generally what you're looking for is a good pair of headphones foremost, and then into DACs/AMPs. There's plenty of them combined into one device.

This or This are what I'd recommend for something that'd actually make a difference at a lower price point.

I'm unsure of headphones because I don't know what you'd want out of them. All headphones do something a bit different or have different sound profiles. These are what I have. I found these on sale on Amazon so those might also interest you.

I'm not much of an audiophile so anyone that knows more feel free to correct me!

Realistically the DACs are not necessary if you don't want to, a good pair of headphones will do you just fine.

If you're willing to spend a little extra cash, I'd like to recommend the AKG q701s along with a simple $-Channel Amp. Fantastic headphones, my favorites.

> Does that mean I need to get headphones with 2 jacks?

Kind of, you can get a splitter like this to separate the mic line.

> Which one is the best one to use for gaming purposes (or are they all the same)?

Your motherboard and top of case ports are the same. If fact, you can't use both at the same time (in most cases). Use whichever, I tend to favor the motherboard ones as I've had issues with the connector for the case ports, either bad connection or EMI.

Just got a pair of Superflux 681's and I've been reading that it's best to get better pads, as the stock ones aren't that great. I'm hoping to find a nice RED pair, if possible. Would these fit the 681's? I've found conflicting reports, some people saying they will, others saying they wont.

Those 731i are not bad speakers and are being underpowered by that Kenwood system.

The few quality combo amp/dac units in the UK start at 360 BP and go up from there. Like the Emotiva TA-100 and the SMSL A6.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/A6-COAXIAL-Integrated-Amplifier-Headphone/dp/B01KJJ43AO/

http://www.audiologica.co.uk/emotiva/emotiva-basx-ta100.html

https://www.audiovisualonline.co.uk/product/41784/emotiva-black-basx-ta-100-integrated-stereo-amplifier/

This combo unit is cheaper but not as nice with likely overestimated power:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Q5-Coaxial-Optical-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B015ZHZG1K/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AD18-Bluetooth-Digital-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01MY96MKC/

I would suggest a separate amp and DAC because the selection of combo units at that price is not great.

If you can manage a full size integrated amp under your desk, try this since it has a remote and better than most desktop size units:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Denon-PMA720AE-Integrated-Amplifier-Black/dp/B007Y3OBIS/

If small is required then:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SA-98E-TDA7498E-Stereo-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B015J0P7VM/

And a small DAC:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Decoder-Optical-Coaxial-Asynchronous-Converter/dp/B00PS0WLX6/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/M6-Asynchronous-Integrated-Headphone-Black/dp/B015J0QAN6/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/M3-Optical-Coaxial-Function-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O

At 300BP there are some good choices for speakers:

Monitor Audio Bronze 2

Elac B6

Polk Audio S15

Maybe Dali Zensor 3 or KEF Q100 if you can find them at a good price.

I am sure this is not what you were looking for. The adapter you're showing in the pic is for airplanes, some older planes have two plugs, just for headphones, which requires you to purchase their proprietary crap. You can see that e.g. the plugs shown will support only a mono signal, only combined they will produce stereo, but only for the headphone, not for the mic.

The link below should be more along the lines of what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2LXOMRZKPF4FK&keywords=headset+adapter&qid=1564415751&s=gateway&sprefix=headset+a%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-4

EDIT: A pic of what your plug from the headset looks like might help as well, just to confirm.

Thanks for the reply.

I have narrowed my searches down to 3 headbands.

1. Sennheiser Foam Headband Pad
   
   
2. Mayflower Electronics Fostex T50RP Comfort Headband
   
   
3. This random clip-on headband that I found since I couldn't find the beyerdynamic one you mentioned
   
   Out of all the 3, I think I like the Mayflower one the most. It looks really comfortable.

I'm not sure what price range you're looking for, but the plantronics rig headset may be solid for what you're looking for. You'll need to buy a digital optical cable as well to hook it up to the ps4 audio, but it allows for selection of one or both audio sources and dynamic volume controls for both audio sources.

Trailer
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GS2AG_6jciw

http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-Stereo-Gaming-Headset-Xbox-360/dp/B00EV00MZ8

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW

Edit: Thanks for the gold!!

Super fedt. Det vil jeg undersøge nærmere. Står du stadig ved din anbefaling? Jeg har nemlig også lade mig fortælle på en anden thread, at SMSL AUDIO M3 (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/) kunne være super god at investere i. Vil begge disse tilføre nogenlunde den samme forbedrede lydoplevelse?

Og lige inden jeg glemmer; hvad er leveringstiden på den hollandske side du nævnte?

Mvh

Budget: I would like it to be <$150

Source: PC, iPhone 6

Isolation: idk

Preferred Type: earbuds w/mic

Preferred Balance: idk

Preferred Music: EDM, hip-hop

Past Headphones: iPhone headphones

Basically I am looking for something to replace my iPhone headphones. I want earbuds like the iPhone headphones, but better quality. I use the headphones for phone calls and use the mic for online gaming. I recently built a PC and it has a separate audio jack for audio and mic, and I cannot figure out how to get the mic to work for my iPhone headphones with the PC (motherboard if it helps). I have something like this which I bought but it still doesnt let me use the iPhone headphones as a mic.

I found this which is an option I guess, but I won't be able to use the mic for the iPhone. Is there a product that will work with my PC and iPhone to function as headphones and mic?

Edit: Should I try a different audio mic splitter adapter? Maybe this one?

I'm a drummer looking for a small, cheap, simple way of monitoring my band's various inputs by headphone. There are four different 1/4" outputs that I would like to listen to and have control over the volume of each. Mono would be fine and quality doesn't have to be anything special, just enough to follow things in time. A compact powered mixer would do the trick but I'm on a budget and would like to ideally spend no more than ~$20.

My questions is, could something like this or this be able to operate in reverse, such that I can plug our four channels into each headphone jack and have the "input" feed out to my headphones to sum the signals?

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI

Type linux under Customer Questions and this'll come up:

> “Works great with Linux and Android. The output sounds markedly better than the output from any built-in headphone jack I've tried.”

I think if it works on Android it will most likely work on linux.

P.S. I have the same headphones and they are my favorite!

I had gotten it price matched to $9.99 yesterday with GameStop at Best Buy so I could get free shipping, $10.99 isn't bad though. It's also on Amazon for $10.99 and isn't an addon item this time around. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6?

Yes. There are ports on all motherboards (USB, Audio, Ethernet, etc) and there is a hole in the back of all cases. When you install the motherboard, you can access these ports from the backside of the case (P.S. Make sure to put in the Port Shield before you put in the motherboard).

Also, all cases have some ports near the front (Usually two USB and two audio ports, one for headphones and one for microphones. For this case, it's just one audio-port that is both input and output. This good for headsets with a built-in mic, as you usually need a splitter like this) For this case, they are on the top of the case near the front. There are a few cables inside the case that connect to the motherboard, this is how these ports that are on the case connect to the motherboard, and by extension your PC.

You can use an optical tos cable connected to an optical to RCA adapter then to an RCA to 1/8th cable and a 1/8th coupler if necessary. I do exactly this in my bedroom. Works great and the sound still comes from the tv too which is great too.

An "external sound card" is typically referred to as a DAC (digital-to-analog converter). A DAC will bypass your PC's internal DAC (soundcard) which was most likely an afterthought. A purpose-made DAC will sound cleaner because there will be no interference from other electrical parts of the computer and should be able to resolve more detail (given that you are playing high quality files).

Oftentimes, DACs will also have built-in amplifiers in order to drive high-resistance headphones, but this isn't always the case. With your particular headphones (HD598se), you do not need an amplifier because your headphones are not high-resistance (why high-resistance headphones might be beneficial is a discussion for another time).

For you, I'd recommend the AudioQuest Dragonfly DAC. They are about $150 on amazon. This particular model is not advertised as being an amplifier, but in my personal experience, my headphones had more output when used with this device.

EDIT: Only 18 of those Dragonflies left in stock. Don't forget you can always return it if you decide it's not worth your money.

Pictures, with timestamps: http://imgur.com/a/tkK1B

For sale is a like new pair of JVC HA-SZ2000 headphones, with an alternate set of earpads (these Brainwavz HM5). Original pads are included as well (shown in images).

These are about the bassiest headphone you're going to find. Look at reviews like this or bass demos like this. These headphones are a lot of fun to listen to and to demo, but I just don't find myself using them much.

Headphones come with their original box, the HM5 pads (the red ones), the original pads, and the carrying bag included.

Asking $155 shipped, Paypal only. Not interested in any headphone trades currently.

Edit: Sold to /u/enVienne

Advice on the FiiO K1? I just want a usb-3.5mm converter, but an amp/dac at $40 is pretty good as far as I can tell!

Does this cable exist? Mini-XLR to dual 3.5mm cable with built-in microphone. I have some AKG K240 headphones and I'd like to use them as a gaming headset, but I need a mic. I know I could get a tiny mic and somehow attach it to the headphones and run 2 cables, but I was wondering if anyone makes a cable that is Mini XLR (like for the K240s) and then has an in-line mic built-in, with a split for 2x 3.5mm plugs on the end.

I found this which is very close but I'd need 2 3.5mm plugs since my computer (custom desktop i just built) and my speakers (logitech z5500) both have separate headphone and mic jacks, and apparently neither support the combined headphones+mic 3.5mm plug (like most phones do). I know I can also just get that cable and then split it with something like this but if there was cable all in one that would be awesome.

First, I agree: don't go wireless. Just get a recent controller with the 3.5mm jack built in.

Second, "console" headsets are almost always 50% more expensive than PC equivalents, and the sound quality is almost always 50% worse. Not saying that gaming headsets need to be "audiophile" grade (they don't), but if you're going to charge $100+ for a gaming headset, it had better sound like a $100 pair of headphones, not a $20 pair with lots of cool gaming logos.

Personally, I just bought this adapter off Amazon and it lets you use any PC gaming headset with the Xbox. Hooked it up to my Logitech $40 headset and couldn't be happier.

Werewolves Within and Rush of Blood are must have games! you should consider having a protection case for the headseat also, this one is pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/POWER-Storage-Case-PSVR-PlayStation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485362692&sr=8-2&keywords=psvr+case

Enjoy!

Due to the size of the ear pads (huge in a great way) they’re very comfortable, but the headband that rests on the top of your head could be a bit more cushioned, as it is pretty hard. This is easily remedied with extra cushion pads such as this for a cheap option, or this if you want something higher quality for a bit more buck.

One other thing worth mentioning, they do seem to leak a decent amount of noise, so if you plan on using these on public transport, keep the volume low.

I use the SMSL M3. It'll play just about anything I throw @ it (HD quality, DSD). Doesn't have bass feature like the FiiO, but it does improve the quality when listening via my computer and I also use it with my iPhone. It'll even drive my DT880 600 ohm...not to ear bleeding levels, but it will push them to unsafe listening levels. It's definitely and entry level amp.

First, don't EQ a headphone amp. Doesn't work like that. EQ is bad in general, and is only sometimes useful to fix measured issues with headphones/speakers.

Buying a cheap little box like this: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O will solve the problem.

Equalizer APO is the best EQ. Peace GUI is a nice add-on for it.

The range you are seeing is just more precise. You might be able to change it in the settings.

Alright, well just give them a week or so of listening and then go back and try your other pair of headphones. You should be able to tell a difference.

The only thing I could recommend would be like a portable DAC/AMP along the lines of this but, that's just more money. I'm also not 100% on how well it would help the headphones.

You could try asking over in /r/headphones?

At $20 there really aren't that many fabulous headphones or IEMs we can recommend. If you don't like the design you'll have to expand your pricepoint to something like $50. That being said, the best bang for your buck at this pricepoint are the Monoprice 8320 with some replacement tips, such as these.

I have one of these digital controllers which does exactly what you're looking for. I'm super happy with it.

If you're thinking cheaper, there's an analog version as well.

Got this HIMBOX for $30 and I can't really complain for the price. It's discrete and let's me pause/play/next on Pandora. It connects automatically and the sound quality is really good most of the time. Gripes: I find that in very cold weather the sound quality diminishes, which sounds weird but it happens. Also you do often have to open the app on your phone so it's not always 100% hands free, but usually you can open an app while you're walking to your car, pocket the phone and just hit play once you're seated

If you want a closed back headphone, I recommend the Audio Technica ATHM40X with modded pads and a new cable with a mic.
Mic/cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NAQWCGS/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=AJ2PJNO98VCDO&psc=1

Pads - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ZY8PGJI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A2XYIDHW2C10EQ&psc=1

Pads are definitely needed for these because the stock bass are crappy and don’t allow for good soundstage. Remember when you swap pads that ye mesh layer in the pad needs the be put in the new pad, you’ll u sweat and when you see it. Or you can watch ZReviews video on the m40x. Hopefully you can find them on the UK amazon site.

I am looking for a DAC/amp to pair with my new AKG K702 cans. Would love to stay at the 100 euro range - give or take 20€.

I have a couple of candidates - which one would be the best to go with the K702, if any? Any other recommendations?

FiiO E10K (Link)

Nuforce uDAC3 (Link)

AudioQuest - DragonFly USB DAC (Link)

Procaster DAC-03 (Link) - sorry, the manufacturer and seller is Finnish. Specs are as follows:

• 24-bit / 96 kHz audio circuit
  
  
• Output power: 350 mW @32 Ohm
  
  
• Impedance: 16-300 Ohm
  
• THD+N: 0,009 @ 1 kHz
  
  
• Signal-to-noise ratio: 110 dB
  
  
• Input: Micro-USB, for audio and power
  
  
• Output: RCA, 3.5mm
  
  

picked mine up just about 6 years ago and I just got some HE400s yesterday. Have fun!

I still love mine, they are super beefy, but the headband will go at some point. This replacement works, I promise. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those little amps have very little gain and are designed for only small boosts in volume. I don't think you'll be happy with it. This little guy might work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/PowerA-Storage-Case-PSVR-playstation-4/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541462007&sr=8-3&keywords=Psvr+case&dpID=41rGSc1mZ3L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It’s $12.99 on Amazon. It goes on sale occasionally for $9.99. I think I got mine at best buy. The xbox one controller sits where the hump is and there’s a small pocket on inside top that holds power supply and cable. The go fits perfectly in the cut out area for the psvr. And it’s a hard shell case.

A DAC is almost invariably going to be an upgrade over built-in audio. Better parts, much better isolation (since it's outside the case), better amplification as well (since you'll most likely want to go for a DAC/headphone amp combo).

There's no "best" DAC though, it's a massive market with hundreds of products. Depends on your budget and location (since not all products are available everywhere).

With the price of your headphones, I'd probably look around the $100 price range. The Schiit Fulla 2 is a good example, or the AudioQuest DragonFly for something a bit more portable (but not as powerful).

Most cars with bluetooth pair automatically (and reliably) when you turn your car on. You don't need to take your phone out of your pocket many times. Just hit play to start up where you left off.

I've had 2 cars like this. In one of them, I used one of these: https://amzn.com/B00GJFGE0K

Worked really well, and I liked it more than fumbling with aux cable all the time.

I am looking into buying my first pair of nice headphones to replace my gaming headset. I currently use a Logitech G930 which is nice but doesnt have the sound quality I thought it did (recently tried a friend's nice pair of sennheiser headphones and was blown away at the difference. I cant recall model right now, sorry). I looked in the buying guide on the sidebar and picked out the CAL! 2. I plan on using them at home on my gaming computer and on my phone/laptop for music. It having a built in mic is also a bonus.

I have 3 questions regarding my situation.

1. Do i need to buy any sort of amp or other peripherals ( forgive my lack of knowledge im fairly new at this) to get the most out of these?
   
   
2. I was looking at buying this splitter as recommended by amazon for use on my computer with a mic. Will using that cable degrade sound quality at all?
   
   
3. Will the built in "sound booster" on my motherboard(MSI Z97 Gaming 5) do anything for me or should I simply ignore those features? With that is ther any other sort of software I should be using to manage the sound from my computer?

Yes, I bought them to replace the originals. They are larger and more comfortable. Highly recommend. They come in 11 different colours.http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OLKV5LI?psc=1

there are two types of single 3.5mm theres OMTP (which is for older phones) and then theres CTIA (which is apples standard)

You need CTIA, I know on that page it says its ctia, but I'm pretty sure its actually OMTP because I ordered that same splitter but from the us amazon and it states that it doesnt work with apple/iphone devices

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I3A47I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SE215 is a pretty good one especially with the foam olive syle tips, and they come in a couple different colors too, as long as she doen't mind the "over-ear" cable setup.

Or you could just get comply tips for any headphones you already have and achieve pretty much the same result.

I have these pads on my M50x and they are super comfortable and the colour matches the picture. Highly recommended.

I love these With my M40x. So amazing

Get the DT-770. They're like the 990 but closed and bassier, a good fit for electronic music. They're built like tanks, they don't look great (and don't need to), they isolate well, and thus they barely leak sound.

If you're using with a laptop or phone with underpowered audio out, get the 32 Ohm for $124.

Otherwise, the 80 Ohm version is $118 and also has velour pads. It also has just a bit more bass, but on worse audio sources it will be too quiet or otherwise sound a bit off.

Don't get an amp - if you would need an amp, get the 32 Ohm version. If you're dead set on getting an amp, go for a DAC/Amp, the SMSL M3 is one of the best cheaper desktop models.

Alternatively, and this will be frowned upon here, you could go for HyperX Cloud for $80. You missed the cheaper sale Friday ($65), but from personal experience of having these exact headphones without the microphone, they sound great with everything and have enough detail that they're a significant upgrade over what you have now.

Have had the the corded 3.5 headphone jack version (8323) for the past five years, at the time was $28 including shipping. Would absolutely recommend if you get alternative ear pads and possibly a head band of this kind for comfort. I use Beyerdynamic Earpads. I can look up the exact links for the two products on Amazon later if anyone is interested.

I also applied a very nice decal to mine to remove the mono price branding from DecalGirl. It's under Kicker HP541 as these are just rebranded by Monoprice.

exactly this post

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VEQ2UU/ + http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NUJ2RM/ gets you great buds with great tips for under $25 with prime/free shipping

and you have a few spare sets of tips to last you

I use this ($20 during BF sales) to keep the headset safe when not using, in the enclosed shelf of my tv stand. Also use it for the intended purpose of taking it with me to friends' homes with PS4s (I put the breakout box, cables, and move controllers, in a small messenger bag).

I use this to charge the two move controllers that came with the bundle, and keep it on a side table in my living room. Sometimes I turn them on just for the pretty blue lighting.

hey, idk if you solved this but the audio splitter that comes with the Zelda edition only works for the Switch, NOT for the PC. If you want to split the headphones into a mic and and audio, you'll need a different splitter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headset+audio+splitter&qid=1555142225&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Hope this helped! I just picked mine up.

Over ear : ATH M40-X ( buy refurbished to save some cash maybe) get these pads for better comfort

In Ear : RHA MA 750i ( 3 year warranty ) / Pinnacle P2

I got the black because those are the ones I wanted for the longest time and they match my setup nicely, but the ones you got do look pretty sweet. Right now I'm torn, between which DAC/Amp to get that fits within my price range. Right now, I'm looking at the Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC or the Fiio E07K Andes USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amp.

https://shop.turtlebeach.com/us/headsets/recon-50p you can get these but if you have two different connectors for Headsets and Microphones your going to need a PC splitter cable which you can get easily at any store or online https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have both of these and people say I sound hella sexy so its worth.

Oh ok. Sorry for bugging you, but would something like this work or would I need one of those bigger ones? I'm gonna keep looking for any settings I might be missing but if I can't find it that might just be an easier solution.

Yes.

Pricey and bulky but it works, and will sound better than the OG Pixel's headphone jack (tho I doubt it's noticeable in a car, wouldn't be in mine anyway). You do have other options tho...

You could hook up the cassette adapter to a cheaper Bluetooth receiver (might need a 3.5mm coupler since you'll likely have two male cables, or a different receiver) and you can play music without even taking the phone out of your pocket, and take calls.

I've used various receivers like that for a couple years, you're actually better off than if your car only had a CD player and no aux in...

If you care about the sound quality and have good headphones get this: https://www.amazon.com/HIDIZS-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Smartphone/dp/B07F2DTTGT

It has a proper DAC chip inside, better that the Samsung garbage inside the phone

On amazon you can buy memory foam-ish ear bud covers. You squish them like ear plugs before you put them in your ears and then they expand once they are in. I love these. Cancel out a ton of sound and stay put! I think they are relatively cheap. Like These

They look exactly like the Brainwavz pads, judging from the pics in the link above. Really helps put into perspective just how much profit they are making now, selling them for $21 on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Angled-Memory-Foam-Earpad/dp/B00ZY8PGJI

As has been said, you can't use just any USB device on your TV. Probably just USB memory sticks and stuff.

Usually, a Home Theater Receiver would have a built-in headphone output (but you have the soundbar, which doesn't have one that I can see), or the TV would have a headphone jack (but again, yours doesn't have one unfortunately). No dice there either for you.

On top of that, you may not just be able to connect the RCA outputs on your TV to your headphones - the signal might be Line Level (not amplified) and wouldn't be very loud. I would give it a try first with the adapter - RCA Stereo Male -> 3.5mm headphone jack (Female) and see what kind of sound you get, and if turning up the TV volume will work. That may be all you need, and is worth a shot at least.

If that doesn't work, you'll need some kind of simple headphone amplifier, which after some searching are crazy hard to find for cheap. The cheapest I found is this one from Pyle on Amazon that should work, but again with more adapters (RCA to 1/4", then 1/4" to 3.5mm headphone, which are common, but still).

For all adapters and cables, go to monoprice for cheap good stuff... here's the first one you can try to just hook up the TV straight to your headphones. Should be about $3-4 shipped, which is probably cheaper than RadioShak. You can try picking up something there as well, but it'll be about $6.99. If that cable doesn't work come back and we can talk simple amplifiers.

Looking to get my first DAC/amp combo to get the best output I can on my 598s. I'm having trouble deciding between the SMSL M3, the Fiio 10K, The Micca Origen +, or the new Schiit Fulla 2. Not looking to spend more than 100 atm so I'm just looking for advice on which to get as my first DAC/amp combo. If there is something better out there too that I might be missing please leave recommendations. A lot of the guides and forums that I visited don't say much about the Fulla 2 and how it compares in that price range so any help would be greatly appreciated.

That's not true at all. Many headsets come like that, but include a wire adapter that isn't clunky at all. The most popular example are the hyperX clouds.

The adapters look like this.

Here’re the exact stuff that i bought:

Geekria Headband cushion ($10.65) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010LD2U80?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Knitted Headphone Headband ($9.59) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OF71WWO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I didn’t bother gluing the cushion to the nuraphones band, the knitted headband wraps the cushion perfectly and holds it in place! Everything fits like a glove. It looks really cool too!

I got this POWER A Storage Case for PSVR - PlayStation 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LB4KHF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_bY9gyb9R7N34Y so I won't have to worry bout it getting dusty or the light hitting on it. So if you want to be real safe that's perfect

I have these -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BREFE4

And yes, they improve both the fit (for me) and the sound of the AirPods. The sound improvement is due to the increased isolation caused by the tighter fit. Downside is that they have to come on and off because of the case fit. So I only use them if I plan on extended use of the AirPods (they do come on and off easily). When I want really good sound and fit, I reach for either my Bose Soundsports or QuietComfort 35 II's but it's hard to beat the convenience of the AirPods.

i use plain old apple headphones (i switch between airpods and the corded ones) with these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BREFE4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MQ8SCbKR4AM59

and they’ve never fallen out of my ears! i’ve been using them for about a year and I recommend them to all my friends :-)

I've had the M50's for a while and had the same problem on both the ear pads and headband. The velour pads are from Massdrop but it seems like Amazon carries them as well. Here's a link to the headband cover if you're interested.