Reddit mentions: The best headphone adapters

A lot depends on the style you're looking for. I'll also say that security in a bag is a myth. There are things to discourage certain behavior, but ultimately a bag should never be seen as a secure container. (after all it can always be cut)

What I chose.

I traveled for about a month in Europe staying in hostels. Even though it was only a month I could have traveled for about a year (adding only a tablet) with the bag/things I brought.

Osprey Farpoint 40 Travel Backpack - $150 (Discontinued)

[Osprey Farpoint 40 Travel Backpack

• $160 (New Version)](https://smile.amazon.com/Osprey-Farpoint-40-Travel-Backpack/dp/B014EBM3KA/)
  
  I love this bag but it might not be the single best option for you. It's low profile, turns into a duffle bag (more about that later) and although it doesn't look like a school backpack, it doesn't standout like this either.
  
  The reason I love that it turns into a duffle bag is because theres a semi hidden velcro pocket in the bottom where the cover rolls into. This is a great place to sew or velcro a small zippered wallet or bag to store extra money or valuables. It's not secure as much as its hidden. This won't help you if they steal the whole bag, but it will help you if they just ransack the place and steal from the open compartments.
  
  
  Other Options
  
  There are a ton of other options. I suggest watching the VagaBrothers Video - How to Choose the BEST Travel BACKPACK | Pros & Cons Minimalist Backpack Review and Travel Tips: Packing Hacks, Tips & Essentials
  
  
  The F Stop bags look great, but are pretty pricy. Depending on what lenses you're bringing (18-55mm kit lens VS 70-200mm VR f2.8) it may or may not be worth it for size and configurability. I personally bought a Sony a6000 and left my big DSLR at home. That was actually a really good choice for the type of trip I did, but if I was going for a year (like you are) I understand needing the big camera. You might want to get camera/lens inserts like this (but not necessarily that one, I just clicked on the first one I saw on amazon) to store and protect those other lenses.
  
  Hope that helps.
  
  
  The following is copy and pasted from an email I sent to family friends traveling abroad. It gives links and ideas for things that help when traveling minimally.
  
  
  
  
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• 2 Mini cologne bottles - Well worth it if you are doing carry on only, or if you like to bring more than one scent with you. Depending on how much you use I find that a bottle filled up lasts about 1.5-2 weeks if you are using 2-3 sprays a day. http://smile.amazon.com/MagnaKoys%C2%AE-Perfume-Cologne-Sprayers-Overcaps/dp/B00UKHLBEW
  
  
• World power adapter - http://smile.amazon.com/elago%C2%AE-Tripshell-TRAVEL-ADAPTER-Built/dp/B005AF0C2G Awesome adapter. A lot nicer than the 50 mini adapters you have to piece together like legos.
  
  
• Power strip - https://smile.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M I never used this. I wouldn't get it unless you knew you needed it. They are good ways to make friends at airports though, as plugs are always in high demand and few people will say no to letting you free up a plug or two.
  
  
• Battery pack - (updated version) https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-20100-Capacity-Technology/dp/B00X5RV14Y/ OR https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9QVE4Q While there are cheaper and smaller ones, this is the perfect size and capacity if you are bringing a couple or more devices. This will charge a phone many times over. It's especially handy if you want to leave it charging in the hotel then bring it with you during the day after it's charged.
  
  
• Compressed charcoal deodorizers - http://smile.amazon.com/Moso-Natural-Purifying-Deodorizer-Eliminator/dp/B0099K6OVQ Great to throw in shoes or bags that start to get smelly. Useful in hostels.
  
  
• Microfiber towel - http://smile.amazon.com/Sunland-Microfiber-Compact-Sports-Towels/dp/B00MGGYZVG Very useful for hostels as most will charge you to use towels
  
  
• Tripod - http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00D76RNLS/ paired with a phone mount (https://smile.amazon.com/AUKEY-Samsung-Smartphones-Adapter-Monopod/dp/B01LYN73TQ) this can be used to hold the phone on long flights. Really nice for watching movies on the plane or waiting for a train.
  
  
• Roll up 1L water bottles - http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BI9AM3C/ Great for airplanes (no longer need to buy water after TSA).
  
  
• I packed all of my clothes into cubes and a flat packer. http://smile.amazon.com/Eagle-Creek-Pack-It-Starter-Set/dp/B00F9S84D8
  
  
  ----
  
  Security:
  
  Since I was traveling alone, and in hostels, security was a slightly bigger deal for me. I carried my passport on my person or locked in my hostel (many had lockers or metal lock boxes).
  
  At all times I had a photo copy of my passport and everything in my wallet, some local currency, and a print out of all the embassies in the area. (Attached to this email.) I printed this double sided and had multiple copies with me.
  I told my mom, "At any time I want to be able to have everything stolen, but still have a way back home.” My credit card will do cash transfers internationally and also includes a continuous travel insurance package.
  
  I would highly suggest making three copies of your passport and all credit cards and other ID you are taking. One lives on your person when your passport is stored elsewhere (hotel, for example), one lives in your luggage (preferably hidden/tucked away), and one stays with a trusted friend or family member that will be in the States for the duration of your trip. If anything happens they will be able to assist with proving your identity to the State Department, thus speeding the process along. I suggest keeping some cash tucked in your passport (along with that embassy list), your copy of the passport in the luggage, and then the copy of the passport and embassy list in your wallet. At this point you have three possibilities of things to grab to prove your identity/pay for a cab/tell you where to go.
  
  While this may seem a little overboard, I find it doesn't take that long to set up and helps greatly should anything bad happen. Also consider registering with the State Department. This helps them track Americans abroad should anything happen, and also gives you alerts, should anything happen. https://step.state.gov/step/
  
  
  
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  Tech Tips
  
  I also used a service called Line2 to give me a US phone number to call from and receive calls to while I was away. I have T-Mobile that gives me included unlimited international data. As long as I had a 4g signal, I also had a phone I could make and receive calls on. Google Voice and Skype would also do this. Do be aware of how much international data costs. Wifi is easy to find, but I suggest using a VPN on your phone or laptop for any web surfing. And even with the VPN I would not suggest logging into any financial (bank, etc) while abroad unless you are on a trusted wifi network (aka, friends).
  
  For maps you can download parts of Google Maps by searching the city and clicking “Download." This should work on Android and iOS versions of Google Maps.
  
  

Help! Comfortable Closed Back Headphone Needed.

• Budget - £150 (approx $215)
  
• Source - Laptop / Desktop computer with headphone amp.
  
• Requirements for Isolation - Good isolation. Using mostly at home, so don't mind a bit of leak.
  
• Will you be using these headphones in public - No.
  
• Preferred Type of Headphone - Closed Back, Over Ear.
  
• Preferred Tonal Balance - Good, neutral, wide sound. I don't mind a bit of emphasis on the low and high ends, as long as they are well controlled and not muddy. I actually quite liked the bassiness of the ATH-M50x, but a bit more control would be nice.
  
• Past Headphones - Sennheiser HD 215 - very comfortable and they do sound good but looking for an upgrade.
  
• AKG K72 - don't sound too bad for the price, a bit muffled and lacking clarity. Like the design and very comfortable.
  
• AKG K550 - sounded amazing but I had a significant problem with comfort. After about 30 mins use, a real burning pain starts to slowly grow right at the crown of my head where the top of the headband rests. An hour in and it's pretty unbearable. As a result, they sat in my cupboard, unused for two years. I tried using them again a couple of weeks ago, but had the same issue, so I've been forced to sell them.
  
• Audio Technica ATH-M50x - I would say that in terms of sound, these were definitely a bit of a downgrade. The overall sound is just a lot more muddied and coloured, and the soundstage is nowhere near as good as the K550s. They are a bit more comfortable, but not by much. I can only really use them for about 2 hours before I am in considerable pain from the headband. I think I will be returning these and trying to find something more comfortable.
  
• Preferred Music - Listen to a bit of everything. Primarily EDM, Pop, Rock, Alternative, Classical.
  
• What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Comfortable! For long periods. I think I might be better off with lighter headphones, since the pain is always due to pressure at the top of my head.
  -Good, neutral, wide sound. I don't mind a bit of emphasis on the low and high ends, as long as they are well controlled and not muddy.
  
  With this is mind, a couple of candidates so far:
  
  
• Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm - from what I've heard, supposed to be pretty comfortable. Link: [DT770] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beyerdynamic-DT770-Pro-Headphones-Ohm/dp/B0016MNAAI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463390210&sr=1-1&keywords=dt770)
  
• Sennheiser HD 380 Pro - again, supposed to be pretty comfortable and quite light. Not sure these are much of an upgrade in terms of sound. Link: HD 380
  
• AKG K271 Mk II - Lightweight and have a similar headband design to a pair of AKG K72 I have, which are really comfy. Link: [K271] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/AKG-K271-MKII-Circumaural-Headphones/dp/B0016MOC28/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463389006&sr=1-3&keywords=akg+closed)
  
  What would you recommend out of these 3? Any better alternatives in my price range?
  
  If anyone can offer any advice or help, it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  

OK, this post is going to look like a series of ads but I promise that neither me nor anyone I know works for these companies; these are just products I love and wouldn't fly without.

Carry-on items: generally you're allowed one carry-on bag and one "personal item" (generally a non-luggage bag) so I always travel with a laptop backpack as my main carry-on and a big, soft, zippered tote as my personal item. I used to have this travel bag with a zillion pockets but it got to be such a pain trying to remember which pocket had which item it got stupid. Now with a big tote, I can just drag it out from under the seat, open it wide, and pull out one of the...

Packing cubes: Godsend. I buy them from ebags in various sizes, using the big ones for clothing in the pack, and the little ones in my tote. I use different colored ones in the tote for different things. Green for snacks, red for electronics, and blue for comfort items. Since all the small, easily jumbled items are in smaller bags, they're less likely to get lost in the bottom of my big bag. I try to keep my electronics cube better organized by using...

Gear ties: these are like durable, reusable twist ties for things like cords, cables, handfuls of hair elastics, anything you want to keep bundled up and untangled. When I want to use something like my earbuds or a charging cable, I just twist the tie around my tote handle so it won't get lost. Some of the items also in my electronics cube are:

Plug adapter (international travel, I have one for every country I'm hitting, even if it's just an airport stop - one 14-hour stranding in the Hong Kong airport overnight taught me that lesson.)

Compact multi-outlet power strip which can make you new best friends in airports and make the stupidly-configured power outlets in hotel rooms actually workable.

Four-port USB charger: one of these means I only need one outlet to charge my phone, tablet, e-book, and my...

Portable power bank: nothing sucks more than a long flight when all your electronic entertainment doodads have run out of juice. My power bank can charge my phone fully 3+ times and is about the same size as the phone itself.

Onto the comfort items! Some of them go into a packing cube in my tote, others are larger so they're separate.

Disinfecting wipes: I like these because they're individually wrapped and good for both hands and surfaces. First thing I do when I get onto a germ-factory airplane is wipe down my armrests and tray table. Also great for public restrooms when you find out there's no soap.

Filtering water bottle: in many cities around the world, airport bottled water is crazy expensive, and water bottle filling station water is, in a word, nasty. I can attach this bottle to my tote with a carabiner and the filter makes most municipal water taste at least halfway decent.

Travel pillow: personal preference but this one is my favorite. My husband prefers a memory foam donut one but I find it heavy and bulky and not supportive in the right way. The Travelrest rolls up to a compact shape and inflates in seconds.

Soft, layered clothing: I wear yoga pants, a sports bra, a t-shirt, a light drape cardigan and slip-on shoes. The only thing remotely binding I wear is...

Light compression socks: actually my pair is just a regular pair of knee socks in the Nordstrom house brand that I keep snug by only wearing them for flights and handwashing them so they don't lose their elasticity. No matter how often I get up and move around during a long flight I'll get puffy ankles if I don't wear snug socks. Over those, once I'm in my seat I put on...

Fuzzy slipper socks. My feet freeze on planes but I don't like wearing my shoes for that long. Even though I don't think my shoes smell, if I get the stinkeye from a neighbor, I put my shoes into a plastic bag, otherwise I can usually get them off and hide them under the seat in front of me before my seat mates arrive to my row. Because I get so cold on flights I also wear/carry a...

Pashmina or other large scarf: works as a fashion accessory, blanket, pillow, and a don't-talk-to-me barrier when worn like a hood. Also covers up that spot where you spilled your coffee on yourself because you had to be at the airport at 5:30 a.m.

Sleeping mask: slap one of these on, engage your (preferably noise-canceling) headphones, lean into your travel pillow, cuddle up under your scarf and try to forget you're rocketing 35K feet over the planet in a big metal tube.

Single-use toothbrushes: I love those little Wisp toothbrush things - I usually keep them in my handbag or work desk for those oh-shit-here-comes-the-CEO-and-I-just-had-a-grande-latte moments, but they're also great for a little freshening up on a plane or in an airport without needing to get out your actual toiletries.

Moisturizers: because plane air is so drying this includes travel-sized lotion, face moisturizer, and lip balm. So much lip balm. I like Aquaphor myself.

Snacks: be nice to your fellow travelers and keep your snacks non-smelly, quiet especially if it's an overnight flight, and not too messy. I like to bring things like clementines, Babybel cheese, trail mix, chocolate covered nuts, or granola bars. Gum is good for takeoffs and landings. If you're prone to motion sickness, candied ginger is great.

Have a comfortable flight!

I'm in Canada, btw.

I have a basic SMSL dac/amp to use with my PS4 through optical and have enjoyed my 598s + Modmic 5 for gaming for some time now (almost 2 years). Very light and comfortable. However I can't always use open back because the house can get noisy with a baby niece and nephew. I've used a few Hyper X headsets before (still own the original Clouds, sold my Alphas) but was getting bored.

I enjoy the Sennheiser sound so I was looking for something similar to the 598s, but closed . Along came the Cs. They're a tad expensive up here - $180 CAD + 13% tax on Amazon... But I found someone on Kijiji selling theirs for 90 bucks! They were in good condition too. Box was a little beat up, but both cords were intact (1/4 was still wrapped). Here's a comparison from a gaming perspective in CoD WW II:

598s have this smooth sound that's easy to like. Imaging is excellent and soundstage is wide enough to make your head turn around to see where stuff is coming from sometimes.

Gunshots pierce the environment to immerse you without sounding shrill or harsh and the tail end of explosion sound effects with the shrapnel and dirt flying around is very satisfying.

The mids of course are forward, people usually call this "warm", don't they? Sorry I'm not an expert audiophile. Vocal callouts are lively, the rumble of tanks is clear, reload sounds are detailed and very "metallic", the way they should be.

The bass is a bit light. It's there, but I know Sennheiser cans don't emphasize it. Explosions and ordnance are present, but a little more low end wouldn't hurt. I wanna feel like I'm there, not far away from the action.

The Cs are essentially exactly what they sound like... Closed 598s.

• Treble sounds similar and has enough detail, just not quite as perfected as the originals.
  
  
• Mids sound a little more hollow, but just barely. It's not terrible but I expected this.
  
  
• Bass is improved. Punchier and tighter. This I enjoy. :)
  
  
• just the right clamping pressure, soft headband, and the unique rubbery cloth earcup material = the most comfortable, best sound isolation closed headphone I've ever tried. Seriously. Beats both the Beyerdynamic Custom One Pros and the Hyper X Alphas WITH HM5 pads on them. They are wonderful.
  
  Here is something to note: the standard 4 foot 3.5mm cable is TRRS and includes a cheap crappy mic on it. Amps usually don't read TRRS plugs very well. When I first tried that cord with 1/4 inch adapter, it sounded like absolute trash! Dollarama earbuds would give it competition.
  
  I plugged in the 10 ft straight 1/4 inch cord from my SEs into the Cs and it fixed the issue. Sounds great now! So, if you plan on using these, don't use the TRRS cable in your amp or PC motherboard. You'll have to get a y splitter like this.
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Smartphone-Computer/dp/B00Y4663GG
  
  I highly recommend these on sale or used. Not $180 CAD.
  
  TLDR: Cs are basically exactly what you expect, a closed off 598. Different headband and earcups make for a comfortable fit and clamp. Be wary of the TRRS cord in your amps. Worth it on sale or used.
  
  

Alright, I can work with that.

To preface this, I recommend pairing one of the following headphones with a clip-on microphone - either a cheaper model like a [Zalman ZM-Mic1] (http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ) or a more expensive model like [Antlion's Modmic] (http://www.modmic.com/collections/frontpage) - rather than getting a headset with an integrated mic. From a price/performance standpoint, headsets almost never stack up. The headsets made by the real headphone brands are exceedingly expensive, and with a very small body of exceptions the cheaper headsets sound terrible.

Now, onward to the headphones. When I hear "isolation", "comfort", and "neutral/warm sound signature", the first thing that comes to my mind is [NVX's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/624729/review-nvx-xpt100-a-direct-brainwavz-hm5-competitor) [XPT100] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2G9qk7IOEA) ([$99 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/NVX-Over-Ear-Headphones-ComfortMax-Cushions/dp/B0093PVTPS)). I actually own a pair of these myself for use as moderate isolation movie/podcast headphones for when my house is too loud for me to use my open headphones, and they're among the most comfortable headphones I've had. While they don't take the top spot - no headphones without an AKG-style suspension strap will ever do that - they're definitely in the top five or so. Their sound isn't the most detailed out there, but they're fairly neutral, solidly built, and very comfortable, particularly given their price.

A more expensive step up would be [Shure's] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/5056) SRH[840] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/3768) ([$199 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SRH840-Professional-Monitoring-Headphones/dp/B002DP8IEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426324378&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+srh84)). While I sadly haven't had a chance to try these out myself, I've heard little but good things about them. Formerly on Innerfidelity's wall of fame, and with consistently good reviews for their sound, comfort, and overall quality, they're definitely a solid choice if you're looking for a neutralish sound with some bass.

A third option would be the [Focal Spirit One] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/focal-spirit-one-page-3) ([$175] (http://www.amazon.com/Focal-529102-SPOH-Spirit-One-Headphones/dp/B007AH7YFU) or [$179] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008R9QRIU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007AH7YFU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HS51KQ3XCE0J5B14R27) via Amazon for the black and white models, respectively). Focal has a quite a solid reputation in audio, but the Spirit One had some serious issues on its release due to manufacturing defects, and it suffered a rather bad reception as a result. These issues are said to have been since resolved, however, and the Spirit One is a very solid headphone at that price. The sound is a bit on the bassy side, but not extremely so, and is quite good for this price. Comfort may be an issue, however, as the One was quite clearly designed more for portability than comfort. While no review characterizes it as uncomfortable, it's a safe bet that it doesn't measure up to the other two in this regard.

Another rather unique option, albeit one with some inherent drawbacks, would be [Fostex's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/570138/review-fostex-t50rp-my-intro-to-the-world-of-orthos) [T50RP] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review) ([$127 via Amazon] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review)). Now, the T50RP is, at stock, not the best-liked headphone. Though it is one of the (if not the) cheapest orthodynamic headphones in the world, its very poor comfort and [rolled-off sound] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FostexT50RP2011B.pdf) have attracted a lot of criticism. Having a pair myself, I wholeheartedly agree with criticism of its comfort, but think its stock sound is better than people give it credit for. What the T50RP has going for it, however, is an [exceptionally dedicated modding community] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements), and some very high-profile modified variants. Modded T50RPs under the branding of MrSpeakers and ZMF can sell for $300, $600, or even $1,000, and experienced reviewers and audiophiles alike have claimed that they measure up to headphones in those price ranges. If you happen to feel a DIYish inclination, a T50RP can be quite a solid project to work on, and, in theory, it can get you $300-600 sound quality for a little sound of $200 accounting for the various materials it takes to mod them.

Now, there are, as said, quite a few drawbacks to the T50RP: the stock sound isn't for everyone, it requires more power to drive than the other mentioned headphones (not enough to cause issues at stock, in my opinion, but when modded it can be quite intensive to drive, almost assuredly moreso than your integrated audio can support), and it's absolutely terrible in comfort (if you do go for them, [a headband cover like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a pair of [Shure] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC840-Replacement-Cushions-Headphones/dp/B002Z9JWZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426325351&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+pads) or [Brainwavz] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426325358&sr=1-1&keywords=brainwavz+pads) pads were what I used to take them from "terrible" to "pretty darn solid" comfort), and modding isn't for the faint of heart. After quite a while of tinkering, I've yet to get my own T50RP mod working properly. It's amazing value if you can make it work for you, but it's quite a significant amount of effort to achieve that.

Listening

In your car or your home, if you have bluetooth/airplay (or whatever the android equivalent is if that's your thing) already, just pair your phone, select your audio output source and begin playing from LivePhish (SBD - Paid) or PhishOD (AUD - Free).

If you have an AUX jack in your car, but no bluetooth, you can get something like this that plugs into your AUX jack and gives you bluetooth.
https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1469204334&sr=8-8&keywords=car+bluetooth+adapter

Some portable devices and bluetooth dongles support different types of bluetooth streaming, ABTx vs A2DP, ABTx is the better choice as the standard claims to be lossless equivalent, but A2DP will work fine.

Where to get it

• If you are looking for SBD's to physically download and store on your Phone/Tablet/Computer for playback, then LivePhish.com is the paid way to go. Otherwise basically you want to look into torrents but that's not legal and I wouldn't necessarily advocate that.

• If you decide you want good quality AUD recordings (IMO they capture the magic in the room much better) then you can torrent those at http://bt.etree.org, which is for sharing legal live tapes. For example, Chris King's Schoeps MK21 (a type of mic) recordings from BGCA are pretty good. I had to EQ them a tad to dial down the boomy sound inside BGCA, but good none the less.

As you explore audience recordings, you can look for what mics your ears like the best. I'm a fan of Schoeps and AKG pulls typically.

Audio Formats

You seem like you may be a bit new to this stuff (forgive me if I'm wrong) so one thing to keep in mind is lossless audio (FLAC/Apple Lossless M4A/SHN/AIFF/WAV files) vs lossy audio (MP3/AAC/OGG). The lossless stuff sounds more "true" to how it was played whereas the lossy stuff doesn't retain all the fine detail and generally has noticeably more audio artifacts or a wishy washy sound to it. Lossless stuff comes in 2 flavors, 16-bit (essentially CD quality audio) and 24-bit, which is said to have even more fine detail but IMO only really matters with good audio equipment.

When you get a free show from LivePhish.com as a result of your ticket code, then you get a, lossy, 256 kbps MP3 file, why they don't give 320, I don't understand (320 is the highest bitrate MP3 can have). To my ears there's a noticeable difference between 256 and 320. Less so between 320 and a lossless FLAC/AppleLossless file, but if you're doing headphones listening, the FLAC is worth having. I rock all lossless even in the car just because.

If you have more questions feel free to PM me.

EDIT: Added more detail

> ... how do you get the best possible quality out of a set of PC headphones for gaming and streaming services like Netflix? Say you had a budget of $200. Do you spend it all on headphones? Is a sound card important here? Is a headphone amp? I'm interested in how each of these work with a PC specifically.

That's a good question. For under $200 for an entire setup you're likely not going to need a separate amp. Most headphones in this price range will be low impedance, so they won't need much power anyway. Depending on your PC you might have a decent onboard DAC on your motherboard. If you built your PC and the motherboard cost over $50 your sound should be quite good, so I wouldn't recommend eating into the budget of your headphones. However, if you feel like you get any background noise from your headphone ports or want something with slightly better sound, you could get a fairly cheap DAC/amp like this one. (Keep in mind this will take away from the budget of your headphones). If you do buy a DAC, make sure it has some kind of built in headphone amp or that it doesn't require extra amplification.

For $200 this is what I would recommend buying for movies/tv, music and gaming:

• Option 1: 200 bucks on a single pair of headphones; that's it. If you feel like your motherboard has decent sound, then put all of the money into what will make the biggest difference; the cans on your ears. Spend as much as you can on a good pair that fits your tastes in sound characteristics. For a closed headphone you have lots of choices, too many to list or recommend. For open cans the AKG Q701 is fantastic for detail and sound stage and is under $200 currently.
  
  
• Option 2: If you don't like the quality of sound coming from your motherboard (static, noise or low dynamic range) you could spend around $50-$100 on a fairly good DAC/amp and then spend $150-$100 on a quality pair of headphones. If you want closed cans, I would look at the ATH-M50 series or Sennheiser HD-380s which are on a fantastic sale. (I own the 380s, they are phenomenal for that price). If you want open headphones the Fidelio L1s are crazy cheap right now.
  
  Personally, I wouldn't buy an internal PCI sound card for a few reasons. For one, they are in close proximity to high voltage/amperage components which can introduce EMI and noise into the signal. Also many internal sound cards aren't as good for the money as an external DAC/amp and they often have really iffy driver support and need updates. External setups usually don't need to be touched and are pretty much universally compatible since it's just USB or optically connected. The biggest benefit of an external DAC/amp is the portability and ability to easily use it on another computer, laptop, phone or other device.

I think I'll just take my Nokia 1616 with me. It's a bare bones, go-phone that I popped my SIM card into. It only has an 800mAh battery, but doesn't have any data connection whatsoever (purely GSM), and lasts usually 3-6 days with me calling and texting a usual amount. It weighs < 78.5g, and has a standby time of 540 hours. With minimal talking and texting (I'm wanting disconnectivity), I should get at least 2 weeks/charge.

The reason the filter is in there is that it's the easiest means of physically removing microbes, but given the price, I think I might stick with a standard 2 or 3 liter Platypus + chemicals (Aquamira, no iodine).

I meant to remove the light, I was kinda looking for LED lamps, but cherryhammer recommended that I look for a certain type at Target. And the RidgeRest (very average, I know) is a roll-up type; however, I fit rolls in my backpack, so I'll just have to see if there's sufficient space. And with the Z seat being 2 oz, I'm happy to have a little more convenience and comfort.

And I'm thinking I want the three, even if I don't fill it up fully ever. The difference between a 2 liter and a 3 liter is just a few grams. I'm sure the Northern summer portion will definitely make it worthwhile.

And I'm stoked I found that product at that price! For reference for anybody, it's the Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition. It's $15, weighs 3.9 oz, fits "with any screw top butane / propane canisters, available just about anywhere, MSR, coleman, camping gaz, etc.", and this is what one user showed at a 5% and a 95% flame. I have no affiliation with the company, but seriously, go read the reviews. I might make a can stove(s) and bring alcohol with me, just for easier refilling and weight's sake.

My pack is water-resistant to some degree, but I'm not gonna risk it. I've been in snowy conditions, never rain, but there was condensation on the inside of my pack, and it actually frosted/froze a bit, which I'm sure compromised the strength of the waterproofing.

I've since scrapped the pants (mostly everybody has suggested so), and now have just the 1 pair of liners, and added another pair of mesh shorts, for a grand total of two.

Many thanks for your insight!

Oh right, well, in case you haven't actually done an overnighter, just expect some bumps, especially if you haven't encountered adverse conditions, say overnight in the rain, or whatever. I guess that's part of the fun.

I have been using an MSR pocket rocket and I like it a lot. As long as it's not super cold where you are, it should work fine. If you want to shed weight, you can try an alcohol stove. I can't speak to it's effectiveness yet, but I'm experimenting with a DIY "super cat" stove on my next trip. But if having hot food is vital to the enjoyment of your trip, you may want to stick with something fool proof like the pocket rocket on your first few multiday trips. If you want to save a few bucks you might try this $6 pocket rocket knock off. http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition-silvery/dp/B004U8CP88/

For water filtration, I bring a sawyer squeeze and aqua mira drops as a backup. Just make sure if you go somewhere where it's freezing, to keep the filter on you to keep it warm. If I was buying something today, I'd get the sawyer mini. Both are 0.1 micron, have a fantastic life span and are easy to operate.

I hike without a beacon but I don't get too far out there either. Just be sure to let someone you trust know when and where you're leaving and when and where you're getting back, and any other details about your trip that you may be able to provide. You probably already know this. Just get out there and see how it goes.

For electronic music (I listen to 90% drum and bass, and also great sound for games, I cannot recommend the sennheiser HD-380 pro. The bass extension into the sub bass is fantastic, much better than my HD650. It fits all of your needs, except it is closed and has a lot of isolation.

There are plenty of reviews on amazon that express how they enjoy the hd380 over the ATH-M50x.

I find the isolation great for gaming, especially in shooters because it blocks out the external noise and allows you to hear footsteps perfectly in their correct direction.

It has a neutral signature which makes it a great overall headphone. I broke my first pair because I left it on the floor, and immediately replaced it.

Great for movies as well. Explosions really rumble thanks to the fabulous bass extension. But the audible bass isn't bloated, it flows smoothly into the great midrange.

The HD598 is more purely a musical headphone. It has a 1/4" jack which is made more high end home audio. While the hd 380 pro has a standard 3.5mm jack which will fit in your computer's soundcard.
The hd 380 pro also has bigger earcups, which I find comfortable because my ears hurt if the cups rest on them or touch them.

I bought them for full retail in 2010 for $200 and they were definitely worth the price. Now they are $150 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-380-PRO-Headphones/dp/B001UE6I0G

From my experience of being a poor college student who loves the outdoors, take advantage of bargain gear, Craigslist, and thrift stores. Yes, if you buy titanium cookware, an ultralight 4 season tent, and a 0.2 micron purifier you will be good to go, but you will also have an empty wallet.


Some good cheap items that I still use today from time to time:

Stanley Cook Pot from Target/Walmart: This $12-$15 foldable cook pot will snugly fit a small fuel canister and this stove http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451241733&sr=8-2&keywords=backpacking+stove+piezo , plus some aluminum foil and seasoning packets, etc. Find a bowl and cup for cheap and bring some top ramen and oatmeal packets (plus some freeze dried veggies, fruit, and jerky) and you have an entire cooking set up plus breakfast and dinner for somewhere in the range of $30.

For water purification you can buy a Coghlan's purifier and iodine tablets for about $20 combined. The iodine tablets taste terrible, so I would highly recommend having a good purifier being one of your first major purchases (after boots).

Sleeping bag and backpack can be bought from Craigslist or army surplus for cheap. Sleeping bags are rough because the price and quality difference between the mid-end and high-end stuff is huge, in my opinion, but you make do with what you have.

Most other essentials (compass, waterproof matches, paracord, etc.) can be bought pretty cheap. I'm not entirely sure what the opinion of Coghlans is on this sub, but I have not bought a product from them I didn't like. I would not expect to own anything they make for life, but for the money it is usually pretty good.

As far as deciding where to go, places like Reddit are excellent. Look at a Google Maps view of your area and find the green space. Look up any national forests, parks, or monuments in your area and find out what kind of opportunities they have. A good sign of a quality wilderness experience is dispersed camping opportunities, in my opinion.


Lastly, only experience will tell you what you don't need to pack, do need to pack, etc. I used to only bring one compass until I got lost and started doubting my compass. Thankfully my hiking partner had a gps tool, especially since my compass was indeed malfunctioning. Now I have a light compass I bring along that I can use as a sanity check in case I begin to doubt my main one.

There aren't any solid solutions that will be both device agnostic and inexpensive, unfortunately. If you end up sticking with the X360, my favorite has been the XBox 360 Wireless Headset. Alternatively I had an extra set of Plantronics M Series earloop and eartips that I stuck onto the 'set and I find them to be much more comfortable / better at remaining in place. In all, with the optional kit, can run you from $25-$40 (sometimes you'll find a dirt cheap sale on the communicators somewhere, especially for like the MW3 edition). Personally I wouldn't go any higher in cost for an X360 solution, unless you go full-blown with an Astro Mixamp Pro and a favorite, high quality headset (expect to spend anywhere from $200-$500 altogether, or higher if you go really nuts).

A solid, dollar for dollar, PC / PS4 solution would be to get the SteelSeries v2 paired with an adapter like this ($60-$80 solution, depending). The DS4 has a 3.5mm jack that will support in-game sound as well as chat. The downside to it is it's a little underpowered. A lot of people don't have issues with it, but I'm rather picky. Thankfully the SteelSeries v2 only has a 32 Ohm impedance and an accompanying low-ish sensitivity level. So they don't take much to drive, but still -- to me the sounds for anything on the DS4 are a little muddy. To forego it, you would need to spend a little more money. Next step up, which works great for the PS4, would be the Sony Wireless Gold for around $80, but while it's a great solution for the PS4 I find it subpar on the PC. To get better sound out of the PS4 you would have to go the Astro Mixamp Pro route.

For PS4 you could also go the opposite direction in pricing and get the $12 PS Vita Earbuds and just shove those in the DS4 jack. While still an inline mic (will be picking up a lot of ambient noise) these are far better than what you can get out of the packaged earbud / mic with the PS4. If your soundcard doesn't support mic input via the headphone jack and only has the separate 3.5mm, can always use another adapter that goes in the reverse. Or just simply save up for a different headset for PC.

Budget $120

Source Nexus 7, ASUS Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard, PS4

Requirements for Isolation I don't mind being able to hear my surroundings a bit, I'd like very little sound leakage though. Isolation isn't a deal breaker unless the isolation is particularly bad for a closed headphone.

Preferred Type of Headphone Over-ear closed

Preferred tonal balance Never owned a good pair of headphones so I can't say based on experience, but from what I read I think neurtal/articulate/imaging/accurate/nice soundstage headphones would be best.

Past Headphones Best headphones I've owned have been super cheap ones. Best thing I've owned sound wise is a Turtle Beach PX22 Headset ($60)

Preferred Music I'm mostly using these for gaming/watching videos/listening to podcasts, I don't have a specific music I listen to, but the first real thing I plan to do with these headphones is playing Dragon Age: Inquisition, [here] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQDs5P42MNg) is the main theme for that, I like this kind of music atm.

Location USA

Headphones I Narrowed Down To - Feel free to recommend something else though

Sennheiser HD 380 Pro $114.99

[NVX Audio XPT100] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093PVTPS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QWSZ44N8P3XH) $79.99

Audio Technica ATH-A700X $99.99 -

[KAM HP1] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAM-HP1-Reference-Headphones-for-Recording-Studio-Audiophiles-B-Stock-/221620705687?pt=US_DJ_Monitoring_Headphones&hash=item33999f9997) $81.44 Not much info on these, basing this consideration solely off [this] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/648810/review-kam-hp1-an-unknown-headphone-that-rivals-the-hm5) review

Sure!

So I'll assume you guys have the absolute bare bones in equipment and work from there. Since these are voice recordings from the 60s\70s there won't be much fidelity to capture so you should be pretty safe.

I've only done this with a Windows machine but I think there are similar settings on Mac. If not this will at least give you an idea of what to Google.

You'll need to get the audio from the tape deck to the computer. Technically you should use a line input. If you have a desktop computer it might be the blue connector. If you have a laptop you can use one of these things or something similar. If you're a cheapskate like my Dad you can just use the microphone input (if you have a headphone/microphone combo jack you'll need this doo-dad).

Note that the Mic input is "hot" in the sense that it's very sensitive to the noise coming into it and a line level input from a tape deck with clip out all the audio. You'll need to dial the mic sensitivity down. In Windows 10 right click the audio icon>Sounds>Recording>Select your default mic input>Properties>Listen>✔Listen to this device (to monitor)>Levels>Adjust levels. How to adjust levels should be apparent soon.

If you're using a Walkman type player you can connect with a simple auxillary cable (double sided male headphone jack). If you have a big tape deck just hook it into the Mic or Line jack with one of these. Toss a tape in there and let it play. Check to see if you can hear it with the "Listen to this device" checked. Adjust the levels to where it sounds normalish. You'll fine tune it next.

Install Audacity. In the top bar you'll see a mic input drop down, select your line in or mic input. Click the audio meter for the mic next to check your input levels. Advice on this varies but in general keep the green bar bouncing on the low end between the -12 and -6 during normal audio levels on the tape. This gives some wiggle room when people on the tape get antsy. You can adjust that with the OS input levels and fine tune it with the Audacity mic levels.

Restart your tape, hit record, and play it through.

When exporting I like to use FLAC for lossless audio but if you're looking for something more practical just use a high quality setting for MP3. FLAC is built in but you'll have to install the MP3 exporter (which I just linked wiki instructions for). You can also use WAV but its a lot bigger and doesn't support tags. When you export you'll have options to tag the artist data. I like to input as much data as I have about the tape in these fields. It will display in any compatible media player and it keeps things generally more organized.

If you don't want to bother with any of that you could try visiting local music shops and recording studios and I'm sure there's someone there that you could pay to have it done. I've never tried that though.

Hope that sets you down the right path. Preserving old audio like that of our parents is important. I have a box of old "love tapes" my Dad mailed to my Mom when they were dating. I should digitize them... but it's really weird to hear. Maybe I'll send them out.

Here's the details on the stuff:

Power Rack. Had this about 6 weeks and I'm extremely happy with it. Looks fine, feels very sturdy, no feeling of tipping or instability even when I hang from the bar at front. Paint scratches when you move and insert the spotter bars but what do you want for $350 shipped. It's held 215 on multiple occasions with no issues. If you lift significantly heavier than this (300+) you may want to read reviews first, or invest in a less-starter rack, but for many/most people this will be fine forever. It's dead easy to assemble if you have a socket set and if you don't, great opportunity to get one, they're cheap! Assembly can be done mostly solo but the final bits really need a second person to hold stuff in place while bolts are inserted. Rack comes shipped in 2 or 3 (can't remember) boxes which are pretty unwieldy and heavy.

I went with this CAP barbell. This suits my needs very well with great knurling and came without bend, and I'm unlikely to put a bend in it with my sub-300 deadlifts. The barbell ships in a fun 7 foot cylindrical tube which caused the dude at the mail place to nearly topple over because he expected it to be light for some reason.

I also got this plate tree which holds 2x 45# bumpers, 2x 45# plates, and 2x 25#, 2x 10#, 4x 5#, and 2x 2.5#. Does the trick but paint scratches off the pegs like crazy but is easily cleaned up. Single box, about 30 pounds.

The bench is this one by Marcy. I wanted a simple bench and that's what I got. Great bench for the price and I haven't had any instability problems. Had this for a year and used up to 70# dumbbells and 215# barbell with it (I'm 215). Most weight total that's been on it was a 270# friend benching 185# for sets and he found it fine.

Assorted stuff: got these puzzle mats which do the trick for the right price and are stowable unlike a permanent mat. As I mentioned elsewhere the 45# bumpers are meant to mitigate any floor impact, and I'm not terribly concerned with keeping this floor perfect anyway (it's 10 year old laminate on top of concrete, and the "path" is linoleum). The plates were from a sale at the local FitnessDerp store (not its real name) and were 85 cents a pound -- I never saw any on Craigslist for less than that in the month I looked. Finally just some collars.

The cat in the picture highly recommends this crinkle tunnel.

Hey guys,


The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.


Here is my current equipment at my work desk:

• Dell E1505 laptop - crappy, giant, old school enterprise laptop. Only audio output is 1/8th headphone jack and the sound card is awful
  
• M-Audio Studiophile AV-40 Active Studio speakers with built in amp
  
  
  These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
  
  
  I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
  
  
  
• Audio source: laptop.
  
• Audio type: music, mostly metal, some IDM, some hip-hop.
  
• Willing to buy used: yes.
  
• Budget: ideally <$150, the lower the better.
  
  
  
  Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
  
  
  
• Syba USB DAC
  
• Nuforce Icon UDAC-3
  
• Modi USB
  
• Fiio E10
  
• Audioengine D1
  
• DAC destroyer
  
  
  
  
  PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
  

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $289.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler | $89.90 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $61.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $71.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $599.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $599.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $109.99 @ NCIX US
Monitor | LG 27MC67-B 60Hz 27.0" Monitor | $449.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2618.79
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $2598.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-11 07:58 EST-0500 |

No need to spend 3000$ when this build will do the job for 500$ less. Also don't go for an internal sound card like suggested in the other builds, better to go for an external DAC/AMP combo. this will give you the best possible sound quality for your music production without spending over 1000$ combine them with a good set of studio monitor headsets and it will give you crystal clear sound reproduction, ideal for producing music.

A friend of mine who is a music producer himself swears by these headphones as having a good neutral accurate sound representation, which is what you will want for music production.

As for the computer itself:

i7 4790k allows for overclocking, heavy gaming and streaming with ease.

2x 980ti will let you play games at 4K 60fps high to ultra settings.

16GB of RAM should be more than enough, and you can always add another 16GB for a total of 32.

500GB SSD and a 2TB HDD like you asked.

the cooler is super quiet and allows for cool temps even when overclocked.

fractal design define S is a great quiet case that isn't too expensive. offers lots of room for all your parts, cable management, and whatever else. I went with the closed version, but there is a windowed version as well if you prefer.

PSU is fully modular to make cale management easier and has platinum efficiency, which meas less power consumption, less heat output, and less noise.

Monitor is a nice IPS 60Hz 4k panel, and it's fairly cheap for a 4K monitor.

If you have any more questions, let me know.

While people are recommending headsets that come with the mic. I'm going to recommend something else. Get a high quality set of over the ear headphones. I'm talking something like the Audio Technica ATH-M50S, Audio Technica ATH-AD700, Sennheiser HD555/595 (The 595's are very similar to the 555's but sound better, there are links around that you can mod your 555's to become 595's), or Sennheiser HD380 Pro. And then attach a Zalman Mic to it.

I have a pair of HD595's and absolutely love them, I can wear them all day and not feel it. They are built like tanks and have amazing sound quality. With my Zalman mic, I not only have a headset that has much higher sound quality than any gaming headset, but I can also use it for VOIP.

I used to have a pair of Creative Fatal1ty MKii, but after picking up my Sennheiser's I can't go back to them. The comfort and sound quality is literally night and day.

Although slightly out of your price range, the two companies make extremely high quality audio equipment. If you look through their offerings you'll definitely find a pair of headphones that will fit your budget. If you watch Amazon you can find that they cut prices dramatically from time to time, I picked up my 595's for around $150, and now they're almost $250.

You'll find the cheaper headsets compensate by squeezing your head instead of forming appropriately to it. This is even more common in the full ear headsets, who have to be able to withstand you moving about.

The point being, it's not the rubbery ears that's giving you headaches, it's the build quality. I know what you're thinking, Bose have fantastic drivers for sound, but ergonomically they fall flat on their face.

*****
Few Options

• Sennheiser HD380's (Rubbery Ears, No Mic) - Far and away the best quality you can buy for your buck. You'll notice they are sloped, which fit more naturally with how your ears are anatomically attached to your head. 3.5mm with a 1/4" adapter. My personal favorites. Amazon 99$ - 50% Off
  
  
• Sennheiser PC141 (Behind the Head, Mic) - Great headset for an entry level price range. You won't hear the CT's jumping up and down while switching weapons from around the corner, but it'll get the job done. Amazon 35$ - 30% Off
  
  
• Sennheiser G4ME ONE (Cloth Ears, Mic) - Slanted styling for anatomically correct fit, just like the HD380's. You should be noticing a brand trend by now. Also the ear foam is a cloth covering, not rubber. This reduces sweating, makes them more breathable, and also doesn't give you that sealed pressure chamber affect. This helps reduce headaches, and improves long time wear. Amazon 195$ - 30% Off White or Black
  
  *****
  
  Hopefully this gives you a few options. I would again really emphasize that when it comes to headphones and people with sensitive facial zones/heads (I'm in this group), Sennheiser and other quality companies cannot be beat.

The high gain is really only necessary if you have insanely high impedance, but the normal gain should be fine for the 650s. The balanced triodes means that each of the triodes in the tube will have the same gain through the connection. Could be nice assurance if you want to shell another $2. Low noise and microphonics is nice to have as well.

I do use that kind of a cable, but mostly because adding USB costs money on the Bifrost than just accepting with optical, and a much cheaper one (digital is digital) here. But if you're connecting out of your MBP, you'll need a mini-TOSLINK to regular optical cable (the headphone jack is an optical combo port), like this.

All this advice applies if you live in the US (don't wanna waste your time).

For a full power rack, I would recommend just waiting for a good deal on craigslist. Even this rack on amazon is pretty good deal

I'm sure if you look long enough you can find a better deal on craigslist. I bought that weight bench a few years ago, but if I had known better I would have just gotten a power rack. As a beginner (less than 300lbs on squat), this solution works for me. Also, try to find one with a pulley system if possible, cause I love some of the exercises that are only possible with a pulley system, especially if you are beginner. Also, remember if you decide to upgrade you can always sell something professionally made and get most of your money back and even make money if bought from a really good deal. Of course, void all this if you love building stuff and have the time.

>Bellari VP130

The Bellari tube preamp is quite hit or miss — it essentially applies RIAA equalisation using solid state technology, then simply buffers the signal through a vacuum tube to give a warmer sound. This is similar to taking a digital photo and applying an Instagram filter, as opposed taking it with a film camera in the first place.

At this price you would be better off going with solid state (NAD and Cambridge Audio make great preamps in your price range), either new or second-hand. You will definitely be rewarded by the accuracy — in any case, you already have a vacuum tube link in the chain; any more and you risk unwanted distortion.

Aside from this, I don't see why a separate phono is needed with an integrated amplifier like the one that you have chosen?

>Maverick Audio D2 DAC

The Schiit Modi costs half the price and is without a doubt just as good, if not better.

>some kind of RCA switch for switching between the DAC and the turntable preamp

While RCA switchers are widely available and cheap, this configuration would not be possible given that the Maverick A1 only accepts phono input. What you need is either

• a receiver with a phono stage, which would allow you to omit the preamp. You would connect the TT to the phono input and the DAC to the AUX input. Receivers like this can be acquired for cheap second hand on eBay or CL.
  
  
• a standalone amp, that is without a phono stage. In this case you would hook up the preamp and the DAC to the inputs, using an RCA switcher to easily toggle between them.
  
  ___
  
  edit: woops, I didn't see the line-in socket on the Maverick A1. Still think the receiver is a better option though.

Are you open to refurb options? They could save you some money in the long run. I'll assume no for right now.

AVR - Yamaha RX-V377 or Denon AVR-S500BT for $250. The Denon adds in Bluetooth if that is something important to you. However, you can't go wrong with either one.

Speakers - I would look at a 5.1 set since you're starting from scratch. That would give you a 5.1 right away meaning you would get all five surround speakers and a sub included. Since you're in an apt I think a sat set would be fine. I would look at these sets.

• Yamaha NS-SP1800BL $120 a entry level set but a great place to start. Keeps you well under budget.
  
  
• Dayton Audio HTP-3 $200 This set comes with a Dayton 12" sub so make sure you have room for it. If not they sell the same set with either the 10" or 8" sub too.
  
  
• JBL Cinema 510 $150 nice set with small sats and a small 6.5" sub. Great for small spaces but if you move to a bigger place you might have to upgrade at least the sub.
  
  You could also get a prepack which is an AVR and speakers in one package. The Yamaha YHT399UBL $350 is a good example of this.
  
  Don't forget the following when you order.
  
  
• Optical cable $6 to hook up the TV/cable box to the AVR.
  
  
• HDMI cables $8 to hook up the AVR to the TV and dvd/brp ect to AVR
  
  
• speaker wire $10 needed to hook up the speakers in the Dayon set. Not a bad idea to get in case the wires that come with the sets are not long enough for where you want to put your speakers.
  
  
• Subwoofer cable $12 needed if getting the Dayton set as I don't think this comes with the sub cable.

I just got the 8323's this weekend. I really like them so far, but as I have kind of a huge head, the headband is a bit painful over time. I found this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8), which is said on head-fi to greatly improve comfort.

So far, the sound is great, the price is better, and I'm totally satisfied. I also listen to a wide range of music, and so far, super satisfied.

Link to head-fi's thread on 8323 comfort: http://www.head-fi.org/t/617416/extra-comfort-on-monoprice-8323

Sennheiser HD 518s, geared for more electronic music, far better than Beats, Open Ear for beautiful sound

~$70

Sennheiser HD 558s, balanced all around, improvement over the 518s but less geared for electronic music. Open ear

~$100

Sennheiser 598s, practically similar to the 558, just further improved for more accurate sound reproduction

~$150

Sennheiser HD 380 PRO, closed back, extremely good sound reproduction

~$100

Audio-Technica M50x, closed back, one of the most popular Audiophile headphones on the market

~$150

2 Closed Back, 3 Open Back. As you can see, I strongly prefer open for the much cleaner and natural sound, but closed back is still an option.

I mean, if your looking for, "audio tuned to only emphasize the very highs and the very lows", then yeah, maybe beats are for you, however, that doesn't make them of higher quality at all, they are literally doing the opposite of what you would want in a headphone, it's just that you would apparently prefer it. If you had a headphone that was completely flat, then you could hear the exact amount of bass the artist was intending. For example, I have Dual-Subs in the back of my car inside a ported box. If I listen to a deadmau5 song on those with the bass settings tuned way up, I'll get an overpowering bass that basically shakes the car and drowns out the rest of the music. However, when I go home and listen to the song on say my HD518s, I'll get to listen to the song as a whole, and the bass is represented exactly at the level it should be for the song, where you can feel it, you can hear it, but it doesn't drown out the rest of the song.

I know you said under $100, but I've never known anyone to regret spending that little bit extra on a set of cans (except people who bought Beats™). Assuming you're going to be using them for mixing work as well as leisurely listening, I can highly recommend [Sennheiser's HD 380s] (http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-380-Pro-Collapsible-Professional/dp/B001UE6I0G). There are very few other products in your price range that compare.

When you have a little extra scrilla on hand, I also recommend picking up one of these so you can boost the output level to the 380s. The power, clarity, and control offered by this combination is an amazing value.

I can't use this much camping on oahu, but this would be great for a camping trip to either Washington or Oregon!

It also has free shipping! I already have a mess kit, and the butane can be obtained at walmart, but I havnt seen such a great price on a camp stove. The reviews make it seem awesome!

Someone else posted this as well, but I also had this on my list.

Story time: On one of our first dates my then boyfriend, now husband, took me hiking on a trail near his house. It's a pretty intense one where people have died getting very lost. We had hiked it before and gotten a little confused and had to climb a very sketchy crumbling rocky hillside and I was concerned we'd get lost again.

I was reassured that he had GPS and we'd be fine and we'd only be out a short while. Well, my husband had no water, and I had a half liter bottle. We started out and it was pretty easy, there are tons of streams in the area but there is a risk of leptospirosis from pigs, so obviously we didn't drink. Needless to say we got lost, his so-called GPS wa his cell phone and there was no reception, we were lost for three hours. He landed up drinking the majority of my water since he sweats a lot, had none and is nearly double my weight.

I was so thirsty in the way back, those crystal clean fast moving waters looked tempting, but I was no fool. That life-straw would have been such a godsend on that hike of lost crazy. We eventually got back drank tons of water, and my husband vowed we'd never go hiking there again unless we had real supplies.

Edit: it's also neat that I have links to other great camp supplies!

I use the ($60) [Logitech G430] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104847) w/ Sennheiser Splitter cable, it really needs a splitter as audio is too low without. As for features, it sounds like any other headset nothing special, but it is more comfortable with it's softer earcups. I heard of someone using an adapter from turtle beach to get full 7.1 out of them as they are advertised to offer 7.1, but only on PC. I've never tried adapter on PS4:




But, I also heard alot of good things about HyperX, I think this is their first gen pair($68)

And last but not least the PC fav,Kraken($70)



A bit of advice on any headphones you choose(if you plan to use microphone function), you would do well to have some audio splitter cable as audio improves dramatically. For example, my G430 came with an adapter that ran through USB, but audio was so low it was worthless. Also, pretty much any headphones should work on PS4 with an adapter or Splitter cable, but splitter is a better solution, just stay away....far away from anything branded "StarTech" as they are usually recommended or shown "bought together" on Amazon, they seem perfect cuz their cheap, but I used a splitter adapter from them and it was DOA.

I would buy a full power rack for safety's sake, if space and money permit (linked a cheap one, but it will do it's job, you can spend a lot more on higher quality ones), rather than the stand that liquidarity listed, but that's really up to your own tolerance for safety. You can use it for benching too (if you have a bench).

I wouldn't list bumper plates (as compared to steel) as an absolute necessity. They are certainly good to have for cleans (and to a certain extent, deadlifts), but again it's kind of up to your tolerance for noise and potential to break stuff (like... floors, or your bar) vs. how much money you want to spend. Obviously it's better to have them than not if you can afford it.

With a rack, a bench, a bar, and some plates, you can do most of any kind of training, and if you can swing some kettlebells (heh) that will add to your versatility.

With those specific programs however, from what I've seen in the past, they like to prescribe a decent amount of kettlebell type stuff (some of which you could do or modifiy to do with a bar, some you can't), so that might be a higher priority than on some other programs.

Well I'll start off by saying YES open back will help you not need mic monitoring it will also add a better soundstage for audio positioning that will work better than any terrible 7.1 virtual SS or "True" 7.1(which is terrible and no one should buy any of the current headsets marketed with this gimmick). Also gaming focused isn't really ever nessasary because better sound in general will be good for gaming and will add more functionality. Also with wireless you sacrifice a fair bit a quality and you have to pay way more. If your willing to spend $300 don't even get any headset. But a pair of HD598 from Sennheiser and a Mod Mic 4.0 this set up will cost close to the same as a G933 and will be better than it in every single way by a large margin. Also for it to work on PS4 you will just need one adapter which Sennheiser sells. But if you for what ever reason want a headset still go for the Sennheiser Game One there way better than the current best wireless gaming headset the Siberia 800 and come in at about half the price. But the aforementioned adapter is still nessasary on console.

So I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask it, but I feel like /r/buildapc is pretty friendly. I have a set of these headphones that I find very comfortable and would like to use full time when I'm gaming. My current workaround has been using a normal gaming headset (with mic) around my neck while wearing the Phillips headphones. Would it be possible for me to buy a replacement aux cable like this one with an in-line mic, connect it to my pc with a splitter like this and have full functionality of both the headphones and new inline microphone?

I've got a ton of budget best bang for the buck gear, but one place you absolutely should not skimp on is socks. Buy 2-3 pair of SmartWool Expedition weight socks. It's like wearing slippers inside your boots.
Socks
Here's some more of the cheap (mostly) gear that I purchased and am still happy with. This includes some revisions I've made after a somewhat miserable trip to Yosemite. I am a freak for reading reviews and digging for the best price.
$8 Stove
$8 Mug
$16 underwear... okay, this is almost as important as socks!
$29 Solar charger, or DIY
$85 Water filter, didn't want to skimp here although water tabs are doable
$9 550 paracord
$14 multitool - use a small cheap knife to 'cut' costs
$28 titanium Anodized Aluminum pot
$9 Tarp Couldn't find the link, but it's at WalMart in their camping section, by Outdoor Products.
$9 titanium spork
$45 hammock - you can get cheaper on campmor, but this one caught my eye at REI
$16 hammock suspension - you can get cheaper by DIY
$14 Compass
Sierra Trading Post has Comfortrel longjohns for $17/top or bottom - feels cheap, but effective.
$24 15 degree mummy bag IMO the next best thing for the money is The Cat's Meow at ~$90.
$22 tent - small, decent weight, cheap, hard to find. Not sure if I trust in rain, but worked great for five days of decent weather and 30 degree nights. Dumped this for the hammock setup due to weight and size. (but it's not that heavy or big)


In addition, I'll be switching to the $45 54litre pack from Costco.
GoLite has some crazy cheap light backpacks, but they don't seem to do well for loads heavier than ~25 pounds, which you probably won't hit on a budget.
$10 tab stove - haven't used, gonna try this out soon

Wal Mart has been seriously stepping up their backpacking game in the last year or so. Take a look their. A lot of the products are decent quality at crazy good prices.
Thread

If you are running Windows 10, then you probably need to adjust your sound settings to use the correct input (microphone) and output (headphones) jacks. Click on "Start > Setttings" (gear icon) and then go to "System". Once you are on the System Settings screen choose "Sound" in the left menu. You should see a drop-down menu to chose your "output device". Make sure that is set to something like "Speakers (Realtek High Definition Audio)" if you have a Realtek sound chip on your motherboard. It should say something like "Speakers" and NOT your monitor name, HDMI or "Digital Output". Then for the "input device" drop-down make sure it says "Microphone (Realtek High Definition Audio)" or something like that. You will only see the microphone choice if you have the microphone plugged into the back of your motherboard.

​

You need to have the headset plugged into the green and pink audio jacks on the back of your computer on the motherboard. Green is for the headphones (output) and pink is for the microphone (input). The splitter should have a little headphones symbol on the headphones side and a microphone on the microphone side. You have to plug the correct side of the splitter into the correct colored jack. If you don't have colors on your input jacks on your motherboard, then look for the headphones and microphones symbol like you can see on the headset adapter I posted earlier. Your motherboard manual may also tell you which port is which if you still have it.

​

Also, be sure to have your volume level turned up enough to hear the sound. This sounds stupid, but it has happened to the best of us. Also, you might need to get out of your game or close your web browser after changing the sound settings above for the sound to start working in them. Sometimes the game or app picks up the sound device when you launch it and will not switch to the new one until you close the game or app and start it again with the new sound settings in place.

​

Good luck and I hope this get it working for you finally.

I use a pair of Beyerdynamic DT-990 Pro 250ohms coupled with Schiit Magni and Modi for my headphone amp and digital/analog converter combo. The magni/modi combo is great for flat sound i.e doesn't add any extra sound qualities in the conversion or amplification (pro for some, con for others) and they power the 250ohm version of the DT-990 pros wonderfully. The DT-990 pros themselves are great metal headphones in my opinion. First off, they are the most comfortable headphones I've ever put on, I've worn them 8 hours a day for the past 2 months and sometimes forget they're even on. The soft velour earpads are fucking superb. Sound quality wise they're amazing as well. Massive soundstage, when I got them one of the first songs I played was Inside the Particle Storm- Dark Tranquillity and I was motherfucking blown away, and it doesn't hurt that they're good for FPS gaming as well. Amazing, punchy bass, but not overdone at all like you find in some DJ headphones. Good mids and nice highs. Some people find the treble on the dt-990s to be fatiguing but I've yet to come across that and even if I did I could get rid of the problem through the equalizer.

I have owned an msr pocket stove for a while and loved it. When it went missing I spent a season without it because I was too stubborn to buy a piece of gear I just had to find. Well next season I decided to just do a ton of research and see if there was anything that was being sold for a fraction of the price but was still popular. That's when I found this. Do yourself a favor and start skimming through the reviews. There's a lot of them. There are things about it that could be better but hey for under 6$ I have used the shit out of this thing and have been thoroughly pleased.

Leegoal Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition 3.9oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_iRvRwb778K57W

Craigslist freezer - we chose upright for vertical space. Chest freezer might work - but you would have to figure out how to hang in it.

Temperature controller - there are lots of options. This one is the Johnson 419. You plug it into the wall then plug the freezer into the female lead. It cycles the freezer on and off at the set temperature. There are cheaper options - but I had this one laying around. I'll link some suggestions below.

The fan is a computer fan with speed switch. I wired it to an old 12v wall wort I had laying around in the parts bin.

Meat hooks are just stainless hooks - again from amazon.



Temp controllers:
Johnson - https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-Digital-Thermostat-Control/dp/B00368D6JA/ref=pd_sim_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SG7X9CB5Z0VYY8RM7EVB

If you're comfortable with electricity:
https://www.amazon.com/Lerway-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat/dp/B00BMLCGF8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133568&sr=8-2&keywords=temperature+control

Best deal:
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Fermentation/dp/B015E2UFGM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133568&sr=8-1&keywords=temperature+control



Meat hooks:
https://www.amazon.com/Meat-Hooks-Inch-Pack-Pieces/dp/B0195CE08Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133886&sr=8-3&keywords=meat+hooks



Fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Antec-TriCool-DBB-Cooling-3-Speed/dp/B00066ISES/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1481133824&sr=8-5&keywords=speed+fan+computer

Up-front warning: I'm in a bit of a rut when it comes to brand loyalty so take everything I say as a recommendation of something to try on rather than outright buy sight unseen (though that should really be the rule for any audio gear.)

The Sennheiser HD-380 pro is one of my all-time favorites from a comfort and isolation perspective. They're circumnaural, cheap (relatively anyway) and have a fairly neutral response.

If your focus is gaming, the Game Zero may be up your alley. It's very similar ergonomically to the 380, but includes a mic. (Unfortunately the mic is not removable.)

If you're more fashion conscious you may be interested in the Momentum. These things are probably one of the few I've ever tried that beat my 380s in comfort (the other notable one on my mind being bose's QC15.) These guys come in multiple colors, so you get lots of choices.

If you're willing to take the plunge into open back (less/non isolating) the HD 558 has a nice wide soundstage while still having the comfort of the 380. These are likely the least in line with your requirements, but I still highly recommend trying a pair on if there are any shops around you that carry them.

Since you mentioned gaming, I'll also drop mention of the antlion modmic. They are constantly having inventory issues (can't keep up with demand) but it's an interesting product. New version is on the way.

If you have a crock pot you can buy a digital thermostat controller to use with it and turn it into a sous vide machine. Basically you fill up the crock pot with water, the device has a little probe you put in the water, and you plug the crock pot into this device, and the device into the wall. You set the temperature and it just switches the crock pot on and off based on the temperature you set. Since crock pots heat up from all directions the temperature stays pretty consistent throughout.

I also have used Ziploc vacuum pump bags with pretty good success. They do leak out some air over the long-term so they don't work as well for freezing things for a long time (still works pretty good though) but they work perfectly fine for sous vide in my experience. Less than $100 investment for the temperature controller, the hand pump and a bunch of extra bags.

Ok, it got kind of late and not everything is available yet, so in lieu of the photo, here's a full list:

Bike stuff:

• Extra tube, patch kit, tire levers, compact hand pump
  
  
• Chain tool
  
  
• Pedal wrench (would love to skip this, but need to box my bike)
  
• Chain lube
  
• Bike multi-tool
  
• Two extra spokes (one for each side of rear) and spoke wrench
  
• Leatherman
  
• Adventure Cycling maps and compass
  
  Camp stuff:
  
  
• Mummy bag (REI polar pod )
  
  
• Ground pad (big agnes 3/4 length air pad)
  
  
• Tent (REI sololite)
  
• 50 feet of 400lb line
  
• Ultralight camp stove (shipping from amazon , buying fuel when I land in seattle)
  
• Aluminum pot/pan
  
• First aid kit (added water purification tabs, nail clippers, space blanket, condoms)
  
• Polyurethane sheets, one sized for ground cloth, one for bike cover
  
• Bathroom kit, tube of laundry soap
  
• Two one liter bottles for water
  
  Clothing:
  
  
• Columbia cargo pants with zip-off lower legs. Seem water resistant.
  
  
• Two pairs bike shorts, two cycling jerseys, one long sleeve wicking shirt
  
  
• Four sets undies and socks, one set warm socks
  
• Bright yellow windbreaker, seems water resistant
  
  On my body/miscellaneous:
  
  
• Mirror on my glasses
  
  
• Neon reflective safety vest
  
• Masses of sun block
  
• Two water bottles on my frame
  
• iPhone 4s, Kindle (loaded with Game of Thrones), wall charger
  
  Undecided
  
  
• Maybe my DSLR, if everything else comes in light enough
  
  If I have any glaring omissions, or if you can tell me from experience, "Dude, you don't need to bring that!", then I will be super grateful for your insight into this.
  
  edit for formatting

With regards to what I mentioned in an edit above, it's up to you how far you want the spending to go.

Like I said, I think the adapter sounds pretty good with my HD 6XX. Your headset will have a lower impedance than mine and should work even better. I just wanted to point out that it is debatable whether or not this accomplishes audiophile-grade sound.

If you're happy with this middle-of-the-road solution then that is fine. Maybe you'd also be just as happy using a cable like this plugged into your Dualshock 4. It would be both simpler and cheaper. Personally when it comes to videogames I don't worry as much about the quality. I reserve my full-on pickiness for movies and music. :D

Yep, the amplifier power in a dedicated sound card is superior to most onboard sound chips, so the volume will be increased. Headphones only sound as good as the sound card and source quality (e.g. bitrate). Make sure to configure the bitrate for your sound card to its maximum supported in the sound options as well, just in case.

For the adapter:

• If this is a headphone and microphone combined on a single 3.5mm audio jack, then a Y-Splitter like this is necessary. On the other hand, if using two separate headphone and microphone 3.5mm jacks that need to be a combined into one jack for a laptop, then a Y-Splitter like this is necessary. If already using a Y-Splitter, then perhaps the jacks do not correctly align, and so you would need to find a splitter that is compatible with your jack's pole pattern.

Just for the rack, or is that for everything.

if everything, you should be able to get a basic 300lb weight set at your current sporting good store for around $300, but check craigslist, as you can get weight much cheaper

for a basic rack, I like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UMM4QC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZW93HRN28RCX

for a bench, I like this http://www.amazon.com/Valor-Athletics-Inc-DA-Bench/dp/B001TJCHES/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

and that should put you around the $800-900 mark depending on if you can get some used weights or not. This pretty much covers the basics, to get you started with Starting Strength


If $800 is just for the rack, then you are probably able to get much better equipment, and I would probably get a package from rogue, as their products are good. So a R3 Rack, weights, bench, and a bar in one package, would come out to about $1500-1700. This would be bumper plates, so would be safe to drop on a platform


other things I would buy

you can get horse stall mat from tractor supply co, and some OSB to make a platform for deadlifting and cleans

A weight tree if conventional weights, or make a weight holder for bumpers, http://board.crossfit.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2060&d=1216003868

I checked the Plantronics page, but they didn't give much in the hardware specs of the headset. You said you plugged them into your phone and they work fine. So first off you're using a "Tip-ring-ring-sleeve" style headphone jack. This style of headphone jack only became massively popular since smart phones started really taking off about six years ago . Because of that most computers don't have single jacks that can recognize both mic and headset from a single plug. It is becoming more common on laptops and some desktops though, but where I work even most of our newer business class Dell Laptops we purchase still don't support that kind of connection. We have a few people who have smartphone headsets that want to use them on their Dells for Skype and such so we ended up ordering a bunch of adapters that breaks out the mic and headphones into two plugs that is compatible with all computers that have a headphone and microphone jack. An amazon link for said product is below...

Amazon smart phone headset adapter for PC's.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00332DPDG

Here's a weird tip that works as well... buy a $5-$10 USB Bluetooth Dongle for your computer, then plug your new headset into your smartphone and connect your smartphone to your PC via bluetooth. Then use your headset over bluetooth with it plugged into your phone that acts as the receiver. I've done this a few times with my iPhone, it's also nice because I can toss my phone in my pocket and walk away from my desk while still talking although the connection gets horrible if you're more than 20-30 feet away or if you get a wall between you and the receiver.

Anyways hope that helps, or at least pushes you in the right direction to find the answers you need.

Yeah that's what I've heard about wetness, hopefully won't be much of a problem... As for a stove I'm not sure, I was thinking something [cheap and small like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1) which seems to have pretty good reviews. The Soto looks awesome, would it be a good idea to invest a bit more into a stove or will a cheap one work fine? They all seem to be fairly simple for what they are

Yeah, probably the dongle. It's got a great mic and connects well, but I'm sure the technology in a fully connected BT stereo system would be better. You can control a lot more of the phone stuff from those. It's on my wish list to get a touchscreen stereo installed, but I'm working on saving up for a house down payment right now.

The dongle is a this one: https://www.amazon.com/iClever-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Multi-Point-Activation/dp/B00GJFGE0K which I'm just now seeing is $20 cheaper than when I bought it. LOL

I suggest getting a different 6.3mm to 3.5mm adapter, as the one that comes with the HD599 tends to put a lot of stress on the 3.5mm jack, as you may already have noticed. Something like this adapter from Sennheiser will work great:

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y

The Grado adapter should work fine as well and is cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor/dp/B001DK1ZVO

And there are other adapters like this one for Hosa which are cheaper still:

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE-100-5-Right-Angle-Headphone-Adaptor/dp/B000068O6B/

Or just use the shorter cable with a 3.5mm connector that comes with the HD599 if you can. Anyway, that's a great setup to get started on the hobby. Now you can feel free to never visit this sub again to save yourself some (ok, probably a lot of) money.

Sennheiser HD 380's are great. They fold flat, have a great comfy design, and are well balanced. They sound amazing from my laptop. I have to boost the bass when playing from an iPod, but my iPod will drive them well. Very distinct sounding mids and highs, and great sub-bass that isn't overpowered.

The price on amazon is 145, but will vary from day to day:

only downside is the coiled cable which limits portability. I found a decent way to replace the cable and can tell you what you can get to replace it for cheap if you are interested

Can you be more specific as to the particular stove(s) you're looking at on amazon?

A few months ago, I was looking for a cheap backpacking stove and stumbled upon this one on amazon.

Seems to have pretty favorable reviews, and I was going to order it, until I realized that it would be shipping from Hong Kong. If I'd had the time to wait for shipping, I would have purchased it, but I needed something right away.

That being said, I ended up just going to my local REI and picking up the MSR pocket rocket and have been extremely impressed with the performance. It also feels extremely durable, I'd highly recommend it.

Also....that one on amazon has an electronic ignition. It's nice, but the other components will probably outlive it. Plus you're already carrying matches/lighter so it's not like the lack of ignition on the MSR is extra weight.


Just my thoughts!

Let me reply in detail in a couple hours. Got a couple things to take care of.

A side note: live drums is probably your most limiting factor when it comes to starting recording. It involves the most amount of microphones and, thus, the most amount of money to get started on.

Edit:
So, on a $500 budget I would definitely prioritize getting:

1. a USB interface: both the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and the PreSonus AudioBox 22VSL are fine choices.
   
   2)a DAW: the PreSonus interfaces usually come with StudioOne, which is a fine entry-level DAW that shows much promise. Otherwise, since you're on a budget I would recommend Reaper, which is only $60 and has decent functionality.
   
   
2. a decent pair of headphones for tracking/mixing: since your cap is $500, getting monitors for your setup is out of the question. A personal favorite of mine is the Audio-Technica ATH-M50, while others prefer the Sennheiser HD380 or the Grado SR80i.
   
   After you've got these, you can DI that guitar or bass right into your interface and start recording. If you have a decent amplifier for either of those, I would suggest looking into getting a microphone to actually plug into that interface (can't beat the old standby SM57 for guitar amps in terms of bang for your buck).
   
   When it comes to doing drum tracking, microphones would be out of the question for your price range. So, a sequencer/sampler would be an ok alternative... perhaps EZdrummer?
   
   Well, that's all I have for now. If you have any more questions just let me know.

hmm, I have both of those for years now and never had this issue even with extensive usage (for a period of time, I had been using them for 6+ hours a day, even 12+ hours on weekends). I don't think there's anything you can with the Logitech pair, but I replaced the Steelseries earpads right away as they were too shallow for me and hurt my ears.

Replacing the Steelseries pads is no different than replacing it on other common headphones. You just pop them off and slip the new pads on. There is even a notch on the plastic cup so it's even easier to do than other headphones.

I use these on them: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFDX4YO/ref
They also have pleather versions of you don't like velor or don't want to be arsed with cleaning the lint off the velor from time to time, but it is definitely cooler (temperature wise) and a lot more comfortable than the pleather version.

Anyway, they are a little tight (don't be afraid to apply force when putting these pads on) but fit perfectly without any trimming or anything. As I've said, all you have to do is use the notch on the cup and just spin the lip of the pad on the cup. If you are having issues, I suppose I could do a video or something, but should be simple enough.

EDIT: oh, and as for your headband, there are "replacements" for those too that you can snap over like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A
http://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Sennheiser-Audio-Technica-Replacement-Protector/dp/B00OF71WWO

im not sure what case you have, but in most scenarios wherever you plug in the headphones there'll be a port just like it with a little mic symbol near it or it'll be colored pink or green, most likely on the back of your case. If you need the splitter cable i'm pretty sure this is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

I'm not really a pro on this topic, i just encountered this issue a bit ago. I recommend getting a PC headset with a USB rather than the console-familiar 3.5mm jack, as the mic/headphone quality will be a little nicer.

The USB is possibly for power so plug that in the PS4.

You’ll need an adapter for the separate cables. I use this Sennheiser adapter with my gaming solution. If this doesn’t work then you’ll have to return your headset.

Just about everyone, myself included, will recommend you don’t buy all-in-one gaming headsets as they are often overpriced for what they are. Instead it’s often cheaper and will almost always yield better sound quality to buy a headphone and then attach a 3rd party microphone (like a modmic, zalman mic, or V-Moda boompro).

Good luck! Link is below :)

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

The Behringer Xenyx Q502USB in your proposed setup doesn't have a clean way on its own to choose where the microphone signal goes: to your headphones, to your PS4, and/or to your computer. The microphone input on that mixer will always go to the headphones AND to the main output along with whatever game audio it's being mixed with. You can turn the output level of the main output (or the headphone output, or the USB output) to zero to mute it, but that will mute both the game audio AND the microphone.

A lot of folks just mix on their streaming PCs (through OBS and/or other applications) and route audio in software, while controlling it on an external device like a Stream Deck: https://www.elgato.com/en/gaming/stream-deck

That has the advantage of fewer cables, less potential analog line level interference, and fewer oops moments when you've accidentally adjusted a knob on the mixer (like the pan, balance or EQ knobs) that almost never needs to be adjusted.

If you want to use the Behringer as just a mixer with your console and headphone, you'd plug your game console or PC game output into the Tendak 4K, and grab audio from the Tendak 4K's 3.5 mm analog audio output with a 3.5 mm male stereo to dual 6.35 mm TRS cable like this: www.amazon.ca/6-35mm-Speaker-Stereo-Suitable-Fancier/dp/B07QX7FVZK/, which plugs into Lines 2/3 or Lines 4/5 on the Beringer. The AT microphone would connect to the only place it can through a three-conductor XLR cable.

The headphone and main out from the Beringer now both contain the mixed audio from your AT microphone and your game, but at different volume levels controlled on the Beringer.

Your Artis 3 TRRS stereo + microphone jack would need to be split into a stereo input and a microphone output with something like this: www.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4

The stereo input would connect to the Beringer's Phones output through a 3.5 mm to 6.35 mm TRS adapter: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Audio-Stereo-Headphone-Adapter/dp/B01HYXK0CI

The main audio output from the Beringer would go to a line level input on your PC. In your OBS inputs (and system audio mixer, and any other software audio mixers), you'll want to make sure that the audio input from the Beringer isn't being sent out again over HDMI, or you'll have some bad feedback issues when you're gaming and streaming from the same PC. You'll also want to make sure OBS is NOT grabbing audio from the Elgato Game Capture, otherwise you'll get the game audio from the HDMI capture, and a slightly delayed game audio mixed with your microphone inputs from the Beringer.

Alternatively, you can skip all the cables between the Beringer and the computer, and between the Beringer mixerand the Tendak 4K by using the Beringer software to route microphone and game audio (which is available from the Elgato Game Capture anyway) between the computer and the mixer.

As you may have noticed, we're still controlling a good portion of the audio mix on the streaming computer, and it's unclear what value has been gained over plugging the Artis 3 into the computer, and plugging the microphone into a phantom power box and then to the computer.

Not OP but, the Titan T-2 design is a prevalent design from a number of manufacturers. ex. Atlas Power Rack and RepFitness Power Rack

From the Repfitness website they list the specs of the 2x2 uprights as 14 gauge. That translates to a 5/64" or ~2mm thick steel. Compared to the R-3 (T-3) 11 gauge steel which is 1/8" or ~3.175mm

The 2x2 14 gauge racks are advertised as capable of holding 700lbs on the j-cups. Comparatively the 11 gauge 2x3 racks can hold 1000lbs

For the average home gym user that weight differential is negligible. Realistically the only time someone would approach the maximum weight capacity would be on one exercise, the squat. And for either rack I'd suggest not ever dumping that kind of weight from max height onto the safeties.

So both racks perform their primary function comparably. Why would someone go for the T-3 over the T-2? That's just personal preference on a number of things. But here are the main differences. The T-2 doesn't need to be bolted to the floor or platform. The T-3 (R-3) has the westside hole spacing throughout the benching area. T-3 has both a 1.25" and 2" pull up bar. There are more compatible accessories (thanks to Rogue) for the T-3. Like OP you can buy spotter arms and bench outside the rack on the T-3.

Of course the ability to modify and expand upon the T-3(R-3) comes with the caveat of cost. The rack is more expensive and the accessories will be too.

If your contacts are saved in either your Google Account or backed up with Verizon Contact Backup, then when you sign into your new phone they will all come over. If you chose not to do either of these, then they're all gone to you. I suppose it's possible Verizon can plug in their machine and download your contacts, but I'm not familiar with that since everyone seems to save contacts to their Google account.

If you're not sure if you saved them in your GA, go to Google Contacts and check. If they are there, they will all show up when you sign in.

As far as emails go, if you use gmail, all that is stored on the web. The only way you would lose email is if you used POP3 on your phone instead of IMAP. It's also possible you will lose emails sent or deleted from the phone.

This is the case I have and I love it. It's a TPU case so it's mega thin while still providing enough protection in my opinion.

Good luck!

I don't think you've considered a power rack, but I think you should.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench-Racks/dp/B004UMM4QC

A power rack or cage, olympic barbell, with 200lb of weights (to start) and you're equipped for doing the best exercises out there.

Have a look at...

http://stronglifts.com/5x5/

which is a very popular strength training program for beginners.

Here is an example build I found by googling...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Fitness/comments/3mls56/home_gym_500/cvg32b1

I have both the headphones but I prefer the sr80is more for the sound stage and the sound signature. The bass is controlled, the mids upfront, and the highs bright but not harsh. These are a little bit uncomfortable when I first got them, you can bend the band out a little and you can get cushions for the band if you want. These pair are lighter on the head compared to the m50s

The m50's highs sound harsh to me, the mids a bit recessed and the bass a bit boomy. For comfort I replaced the stock m50 pads with velour pads. These pair are a little heavy on the head and the clamp on them is pretty tight but will loosen and be more comfortable with use.

What it really comes down to is if you want the headphones to be open back or closed depending on your needs. Also your preferred sound signature.

I listen to mostly rock, jazz, alternative, indie and some classical if that helps any.

It's a very simple mod: http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Leatherette-Universal-Sennheiser-Beyerdynamic/dp/B00862522A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405565300&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+headband

Basically, I thought the Audeze padding would have been really good and that I wouldn't have to worry about hotspots, but that wasn't the case. Luckily, I had this (used with my Grado 325is) and it fit pretty well. The last buttons can snap together. If you don't mind the aesthetics (or lack thereof), it really, really helps with comfort.

I was looking at this one and this one myself. I haven't looked too closely yet, just saw good reviews so tagged them for a closer look at a later date.


Good luck with Prime Two-Day shipping on an inexpensive power rack. The cheapest Prime eligible power rack (like above, full cage, not half racks) that I saw was just over $650 from Amazon with free Prime. It was available for almost $200 less w/ free shipping from other vendors.

I got the 363d, and then this adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

(don't pay $30 for it... $15 at most. That one's sennheiser brand and it's pretty good quality, but I got it for $15 and paid for it with some 'free' amazon credit).

Also got this:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00OIPOTYG

which is necessary for '3rd party' headsets. Astros may come with them, and they also come with a mix amp that simulates surround sound. If you want surround sound on Sennheisers you'd need to be a mixamp separately. I haven't had much of a problem though with just stereo.

---

Anyway, I absolutely love the 363Ds and couldn't recommend them highly enough. However, I'm not sure about it since you are primarily using your xbox one. They are the most comfortable headset I've worn, I can use them all day with no feeling of pressure or small headaches. The sound is excellent except for very low bass, but I don't like hearing that anyway :)

This is the project I'm completing this weekend

Just FYI, a lot of the controls that are listed on the web sites are either out of production, or just not available. After trying to chase down a few products that are still listed on websites but not available, I found these two essentials to be the best value with rock-solid reputations:

Temp Control

Humidity Control

I called about a dozen hydroponics stores looking for the Titan EOS2, but it's discontinued and every place that had them in stock no longer does. The LTL is comparable, and the folks who make it are reputable.

The humidifier that everyone pretty much agrees on is this guy

Is it a single jack? or split for audio/mic? I'm unfamiliar with those headphones, but I use 3.5mm jacks for 1 of my headphones, it requires 2; one for audio, another for mic, you might need to buy a splitter.

That being said have they ever worked on the computer? Cause if they have without a splitter, you wouldnt need one.

As for testing without realtek software, headsets are literally plug and play. If it was the USB Atlas, the driver would be included (TBH, I probably should have asked the connection before I recommended removing realtek, but reinstalling drivers are always a good option).


edit: A more user friendly splitter

3 4 Suggestions :

Creative Aurvana Live New is outside of your budget but there's some used (Like New) on Amazon that's pretty close to $50. They say over-ear but it might be on-ear if you have large ears.


Panasonic HTF600 Warm and bassy. Price has been high on these for some reason. I bought these over the summer for under $30. Still a good buy at $40.


Monoprice 8032 All about the mids, decent bass. Headband got uncomfortable after extended use. Might need to invest in a headband like this


Limitless Creations HP3BK Forgot about these, $40. Rec'd by /u/keanex.

What I do is bring something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7FMY3U/

It isn't universal, but most trips only cover one or two styles of plug anyway so I just take what I need for that trip. This single-style adapter is smaller and lighter than a universal adapter, and if you look at the picture you'll notice that they have output connectors on both the front and the bottom. This means I can insert my adapter in-between any existing occupied outlet. This is great at places like an airport, where you might be trying to crowd around a few limited outlets.

If I'm not traveling light (only phone and tablet) then I then also carry a small travel power strip, like the one below, so that I can have more outlets for things like my laptop:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F9YN2M/

Budget - $80-130

Source - PC soundcard

Requirements for Isolation - No real requirement but some isolation could be nice.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear

Preferred tonal balance - I guess neutralish but I also like good bass that isn't overpowering.

Past headphones - Various low-ends, really nothing to mention.

Preferred Music - Mostly electronic(Aphex Twin and such), but all kinds really.

So pretty much I'm between choosing this and this. What's the consensus on those two? I'm also open to other suggestions.

Edit: just saw the price on the HD 558, so now I'm considering that as well.

Edit 2: At this point I don't really know what to get, so I'm just open to any suggestions.

Portable power strip

The 3oz. Gotoobs are really nice too if you prefer to use your own shampoo and soap rather than the hotels'. They also come in handy for camping trips and whatnot.

If you're comfortable asking for a more expensive item (then again these don't always have to be expensive; plenty of professionals rock free company bags, Samsonite bags, etc. as opposed to Tumi or something) , a professional laptop briefcase might be handy. Not sure what size your company laptop is/will be, but it's nice having the briefcase when you need it as opposed to a backpack.

Also if anyone has any recommendations on USB external monitors, I'd love to hear them. A few co-workers of mine have Lenovo ones, but since I last searched, I couldn't find any for sale.

Sure thing.

Game sound through headphones

1. The Dualshock 4 controller has a 3.5mm jack built in, so all you really need to do is plug your headphones into the controller, hold down the "PS" button, go to audio, then select the option to output all audio to headphones. You can also adjust the volume within this menu. That's all you need to hear the game volume through your headphones. This is the simplest way to do it imo.
   
   
2. Plug your headphones directly into your TV's headphone jack/aux out/audio out and adjust volume on tv. You will probably need something like this if your headphone's cable isn't long enough.
   
   If you want to use your headphones to hear the game noise and talk to friends with a mic then you have two options.
   
   
3. Get a splitter like this, and a mic like this. Plug splitter directly into controller. Plug headphones into aux side of splitter, and plug mic into the mic side. Output all audio to headphones through the PS menu. That should be it.
   
   
4. Plug your headphones into your Tv's audio out and your mic directly into the controller. Go to settings>devices>audio devices and output all audio to tv. If you unplug your mic, this setting will reset, and you'll have to go back and do it again.
   
   Hope this helped.
   
   

I wouldn't recommend fm transmitter if you want good quality audio. Used the fm for years with ok but as you dive around town you will find that there is a lot of interference and the need to always find a better station.

I would stick with one of the bt units. I've
usedhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJFGE0K/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1486718990&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=aux+bluetooth+adapter+for+car&dpPl=1&dpID=41V1j0H06bL&ref=plSrch

Works great on calls as well.

Astro mixamp if you want an amp that can handle both game audio + a game chat (mic).

IF youre ok with an amp just boosting your headset for game audio , you can grab a nice dac amp for $50-$60 off Amazon. I use a dac amp with my Audio Technicas and they sound great. If I want to use my headset + a mic (ModMic in my case), I plug them into my Xbox controller’s 3.5 mm port using an audio y cable. Link at the bottom if you’re interested.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_FNmUBb4XWDQCJ

Traveling with a power-strip is an old trick for avoiding to carry multiple plug adaptors, but going from the US to Europe you need to be a little careful.

Electricity in the US is ~110 volts, whilst in much of the rest of the world it's 200-250 volts.

Although power boards/power strips are generally passive, and thus the number of volts should not have any impact, many of them do include various types of fuses or additional circuitry (eg, USB ports) that could potentially have issues with higher voltages. If you were to plug multiple high-current devices into a power board (eg, a hair dryer) it's also possible that you could draw more watts than the board is designed to support.

There are a few products that are specifically designed for travel, and designed to support both 110 and 240 volts, such as the Monster Outlets to Go range (Note: Amazon doesn't say it, but the manufacturer has confirmed that these items are designed for up to 250 volts)

source

TLDR: Don't use a US power strip in Europe/UK unless you specifically read a review that says that particular model is OK.

This doesn't really answer your question, but I bought this

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-3-0-adapter/dp/B005Z5HT2M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409122715&sr=8-3&keywords=bluetooth+usb

To use Wii Motes on the dolphin emulator (Gamecube/Wii emulator). It works really well and was a simple plug and play for me.

According to this review, it works fine with PS3 controllers.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-3-0-adapter/product-reviews/B005Z5HT2M?pageNumber=2

"
This was a great purchase for connecting my Wii and PlayStation 3 Dualshock controllers. I used Touchmote drivers for my Wii remote to use as a gyro mouse and it connected easily. Using the remote for 3 hours had no problems with the connection dropping.
I used the Xinput DS3 Wrapper for my Dualshock and played from a distance of about 15 ft."

Budget - ~100-150£ (could push it a little for and EXCELLENT deal in amazon if you find one)

Source - FiiO E10 that I still haven't bought, so it could be changed

Isolation - As much as possible, as I will be using the headphones at work

Prefered type - full-sized

Preferred tonal balance - probably overall balanced sound. No idea, really

Past headphones - Denon AH-C360, Sennheiser PX100, so nothing major. Didn't like that Sennheisers were on-ear, hence new choices (denon and now full-sized)

Preferred Music - classical music (eg Tchaikovsky, Mozart string quartets, etc.) , Jazz (big band), classical jazz (Coltrane, Miles Davis, Monk, etc.) funk (Jamiroquai,..), metal (classical? eg. Iron maiden, ozzy) , rock (AC/DC, doors, ..), electronic/hip-hop (e.g. Tosca, Nujabes, etc.) - a full palette ;)

Location - UK



Unfortunately I wasn't able to listen to any of the headphones, but the two most obvious choices seem to be either Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro-80ohm or Sennheiser HD 380 Pro (links for prices, etc.) Which ones should I choose?

I'm not sure I particularly care about very heavy bass, especially with all the classical music I'm listening to. It should be fun with funk / electronic and similar though..

Oh and comfort is of high priority!

What would be your recommendations? Any is advice appreciated!

Pretty good mic. I bought these this week, and I have to say it's the best headset I've had in a long time, if not ever. Great sound, good seal around the ears, minimal external noise, lightweight (like they aren't kidding when they say "Cloud"), really comfy on the ears too, and I got a large head and equally large ears. Super comfy. The only thing bad about it is the inline soundcard. The 7.1 is a little meh, else it's pretty good.

This is one of those headsets with a 4-pin 3.5mm, so I'd recommend getting a splitter if you have a good soundcard that you'd rather use. I bought this one and it does the job perfectly, though it's a little short altogether, but fine if you use your front panel ports.

Nice!! Yeah man it works well. I've actually changed my set up since my last post. I now use a Magni 3 so I have my PS4's HDMI to TV and then TV's RCA out to the Magni 3 input. Then Magni to DT770s and separate ModMic directly to controller using one of these

This setup works great for me as I was having a little trouble using a usb dac/amp like I previously posted. For some reason, the usb wouldn't always recognize the mic..

Hope this helps!

I'm really enjoying the Sennheiser Game Zero, it's the same headset as the Sennheiser HD 380 Pro that I was using before, but with a built in boom microphone. Excellent noise deadening, I can barely hear the "real world" with the headset on, it's great.

Since you are gaming on the PS4, running a good headphone and modmic combo will require ONLY ONE of the following -

1. A dac/amp with USB ($$$)
   Example - Creative G6 is $150. There are others but this is a good starting point.
   
2. A splitter so you can connect the headphone and mic to your controller $)
   Example - https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=F4345XWFRIM0&keywords=sennheiser+splitter&qid=1556639491&s=gateway&sprefix=sennhei%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-2
   
3. USB soundcard compatible with the PS54 ($)
   Example - https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-usb-sound-card
   
   Personally my current setup for PS4 is a Creative SoundBlasterX G6 dac/amp connected to a HD 600 and modmic 4.0. Extreme overkill headphones but I mainly use it on PC and the G6 allows me to effortless switch between the two. Also I don't like the audio out of the PS4 controller in general so I did not opt for that method.
   
   For $250 I would suggest getting a good set of cans and then using option 2 (splitter) or 3 (compatible usb sound card) to start with. If you don't like the audio quality, then move up to the dac/amp.
   
   Now coming to the closed back can's that you want, there are a few good options that come to mind (please note the order is not a ranking of preference, simply what came to mind first) :
   
   
4. Beyerdynamic DT 770 32 Ohm- $180 on Amazon.com
   
5. Sennheiser HD 569- $110 on Amazon.com
   
6. Sennheiser HD 598 Cs- $ 150 on Amazon.com
   
   ​
   
   I would also wait a while for others in this subreddit to give you their choices in closedback headphones.

For a tent I have the Ledge Scorpion 2. It's light, small, freestanding, has an optional tarp for when it rains, and good ventilation.

You can get a decent sleeping bag at Academy. I have a No Limits 32 degree tent. I wouldn't get anything rated colder than that because they'll be too big. Mine is basically as big as you should ever get. I'd recommend smaller.

For bed roll I I have the Alps Comfort Series. It rolls real flat and is inflatable by mouth.

For cooking system I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8CP88/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's extremely light and small. Works great with this for cookware: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037DD3R4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Don't forget about a good backpack and a good water purification equipment.

I'd keep some coins on you in case you need to use the bathroom and it costs money.

I've been to Berlin, whichc i hope you're going to, and i found the taxi service a bit weird. Some places to credit/debit some were cash only. I found one WEIRD dude that only had two bills of 50 euros each and didnt take card. So be prepared if you're using taxis. I also found, coming from the states, credit card use didnt seem QUITE as prevalent, at least the first time i went in 2015. I actually found a market that was cash only.

As for packing i pack as light as possible, i just take basically the equivalent of a school back pack. But i stay in hotels so i can wash clothing in the tub or sink, i dunno how they do in hostels. I also like having socks and underwear that can be cleaned daily and are dry by morning so i can cut down on number of thing i take. They're usually thinner than normal underwear as well so less room. Last year i had ex officio and while i could wash them every day they retained a musty, sweaty smell despite showering several times a day. This year i bought David Archy and it worked a lot better. For socks i have smart wool from REI that have worked VERY well.

Last year was the first time i'd ever used packing squares and i cant recommend them enough. It makes packing and storing your stuff SO much easier. I got a 3 pack from Eagle creek. I use the big one for shirts and i can get about 10-12 shirts in there plus underwear. The middle one for socks if i need it. The smallest one i use for keeping less used electronics like my power strip, adapter, and power bank plus various cables.

I have this or something like it https://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505361011&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=monster+p%5Bower+strip+travel

I take it every time i go out of town. I remember it being cheaper but i bought it years ago.

An important thing to remember is that for the most part anything you might forget besides essentials like medications and what not can be easily found so dont stress.

I don't like how the bench is attached to the rack.

You might like something like this that adds the possibility of doing squats:

http://www.amazon.com/Golds-Gym-XRS-Olympic-Bench/dp/B009PA1KJG/

I have one of these for my home gym:

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Chrome-Safety/dp/B004UMM4QC/

I like it a lot since I can do pretty much any compound exercise and having the safety pins is a huge plus. Im not sure how I would feel benching heavy weight with the adidas bench when there is no safety mechanism.

Anything MSR cooking is aweaome, and then for a cheap pocket stove, check this out:

http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1344822829&sr=8-10&keywords=pocket+stove

It's a great great value. If you buy that and the MSR skillet with a gas canister, you're good to go for a while.

Flagrama is right, but what kind of computer do you have? If it's a laptop, it probably has bluetooth built in already. If not, bt adapters like this one are under $10. You can also buy this handy thing that will make the pairing process easy and treat the Pro Controller like a 360 controller, so you can instantly use it to play tons of PC games (hundreds of Steam games, for example).

A quick google appears to be if you have the Rear Seat Entertainment (RSE) then the aux is in the rear under a flap on the center console.

That’s where mine is on my Sport 06, but I have the tv screens and DVD player.
It was a must have feature for getting such an old car, but I wanted one for a while.

I then purchased one of these and it works great.Bluetooth Adapter

Mine has two Aux, one has the Satellite radio on it, so not sure if you have a “Sat” button and can hook into that?

Good luck, nice car.

Do you have a tip ring ring sleeve cable right now?

As others have said. The best way for this is to use an interface like a scarlet 2i2 or something similar.

Otherwise you need to figure out how your computer is sending audio out of the Jack and how it's wanting the audio back in the Jack.

You'll most likely need to get an adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jjFnDbZMF975V and then run the cables to the appropriate spot.

Don't be surprised if you get some wonderful buzzing in the audio. To avoid that, you guessed it. Get a better audio interface.

I recommend either Sennheiser HD 380 Pro or Sennheiser HD 280 Pro.

I like the 380's over the 280's and I have worn both extensively. On the 280's the main drawback is the tightness of band on the ears; after extended use is can hurt taking them off. The tightness does come with some benefit though; it almost creates a vacuum environment that block outsides sound from leaking in... almost noise cancelling. The 380's have a lighter grip and a lighter construction overall. They do not weigh down on my head as much nor grip as strong as the 280's. Of course, that means sound from the outside does leak in a bit, especially at low volumes, but little can be heard once the volume is turned up. I can wear the 380s for hours, and feel so comfortable I have barely feel them on.

You're probably going to need a microphone as well; I like to stick with the Zalman clip on. I attach it directly to the headphone cord and works great!

As a side note, both of these headphones will need to be burned in to really notice the quality. I work with the 380's for music production and music listening as well. They are really versatile headphones.

Can confirm.

I have a set of hyper x cloud ii headphones.
They are pretty awesome.

One note: they have a 4 contact single plug. (integrated audio and microphone)
This works fine for most phones, consoles, and laptops with a single audio jack.
My desktop pc has separate audio jacks for audio and mic though.

I also bought this: https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Blaster-Audio-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00GNHSL8C/
Splits the single plug to two. Does a great job.

Regarding your last point, it's always a good idea to bring a compact power strip with you when travelling. Something like this or this, though you may need a 3-prong to 2-prong converter for some places in Japan. They are great for nights when you have to charge multiple devices and make you a hero at airports.

I have 10 mos left on my warranty, so nothing. :) BUT go to miata.net and check out the NC sections on the forum. THere is power, maintenance, sales, top care (which as a PRHT we have certain things to lube, etc) and lots of great info. I am doing the Goodwin Super Q exhaust and the tune and that's probably it. That way I can convert back to stock easily enough to sell it. There is a very very clean PRHT here in town for sale with low miles but he's done a ton of aftermarket and I think that is why he can't sell it. Good price too.

edit - I did buy this (speaking of bluetooth) and it is fantastic! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got this one off Amazon. Obviously I havn't had a chance to put the Nexus in it, but it looks like a solid case. Youtube has a lot of good Galaxy Nexus case reviews too.

Edit: Found a YouTube review on it. There's also a clear version.

Sorry for the late response, all this information is overwhelming. Trying to get a sense of what i should do, was looking for something easy or straight forward but it would seem as though Microsoft wants to make everything hard. If i were to be connecting separate headphones and mod mic to the xbox controller i would need a mic/audio splitter like this one? https://www.amazon.com/KingTop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531147301&sr=8-3&keywords=Headphone+Mic+Splitter

My question then becomes is the audio or mic performance going to be sacrificed going through the splitter? Thank you for all your help again.

Nice! My buddy actually just got the 400i and really seems to be enjoying them coming from his dt 770's.

It took me about 2 years to finally get my he-400's comfortable enough for extended wear sessions. That metal band across the top with minimal padding was a poor design choice. Glad they decided to redesign them because the drivers are incredible for the price.

HERE are the ear pads I now use (similar to the LCD-2). So worth the money.

And HERE is the headband for extra padding

I have one of these. It cost about 1k.

Squat/power rack: very versatile. you can tie up a sub in a number of different ways. mine has a pull up bar built in. it holds up very well to both lifting and kink use. you do NOT need a 1000 dollar power rack. this is the one i have: https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench/dp/B004UMM4QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1465612231&sr=1-3&keywords=power+rack

Bench: doubles as a bondage bench just fine

barbell/weights etc.: this is the bulk of the expense. I use these for powerlifting, not necessarily for kink.

deadlift platform: this is good for both deadlifts AND if you build your own its pretty cheap. with high quality wood it is fine for bare feet.

boxing bag: I have a heavy bag (100lbs) bolted into the ceiling. i reinforced the attic with 2x4 and some 4x4s. it will easily work for suspension or swing with the extra support.

Sennheiser HD 380 PRO are excellent at $125 on Amazon, or the older model (slightly less excellent but still very good) is the Sennheiser HD280 PRO which Amazon is selling at $78.

They're both studio quality headphones which provide a flat response suitable for mixing (although I'm sure you know it's no substitute for mixing with decent monitors in a treated room). If you just want something to listen to your music and you're not too worried about an accurate frequency response then something cheaper will do fine.

Sennheiser and AKG are the two brands that I would personally recommend.

I think you might need something like what I will link to below on your newer PC that does not seem to have a headset port but instead two seperate Mic and headphone jacks.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Headphone-Splitter-Computer-Smartphone/dp/B00Y4663GG

Are you SURE the USB does nothing? That seems like the better solution if you can get that working. Does it have an input where you are supposed to perhaps plug the 3.5 cable into it first or something? Does anything happen when it's plugged in?

For $6 you could buy this stove 15 times before buying a $100 MSR once. I'm pretty happy with it. Worth getting and trying for a weekend. if you don't like it it's a great stocking stuffer.

So I used to have a similar setup. I had by headset and then a 2.1 speaker setup. Both ran off 3.5mm. What I did is I ran my headset cable to somewhere easily reachable. For me, it was secured to the underside of my desk, but out of sight. Then, I ran both the headset cable, that actually connects to my headset, and speaker input to the same area. This allowed me to easily switch between devices quickly.

Getting a sound card will not work, I tried. This is due to the fact that MOST sound cards only support a single audio stream and can't handle two separate audio streams simultaneously.

Alternatively, you could get a USB to dual 3.5mm out. Then you could have both devices connected and use something like audio switcher to switch between you output devices with a keybind.

If your headset has a connector with three stripes you can plug it into your computer's headphone jack if you just want to use them as headphones, but if you want to use the speaker as well then you'll need an adapter like this. There might be better ones out there, this is just the first result on amazon.

Watch Craigslist for a decent 5.1 system and a receiver.
I found a Denon AVR-1804 and a Boston Acoustic 5.1 System for 225 total on Craigslist.
the digital audio cable you are looking for is this one

does your PC have digital audio out as well? it may be worth getting a card with that because that would probably be the easiest and cheapest way to have speakers hooked up to a TV, PS3 and your PC with digital audio from PC -> receiver, PS3 -> receiver, and receiver -> TV.
Im pretty sure that some of the higher end logitech speakers have a digital out as well. these appear to though it is hard to tell

A feature many people don't know is that you can get any normal headset to work when using a combo audio adapter as long as it has a 4 pole jack plug. Recommending this one
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457793178&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+audio+adapter

Saved me some bucks.


FF14 has a 14 day trial period on PSN if that's your genre. Uncharted collection is great, Last of Us remaster is great, Alien Isolation and Until Dawn are a good buy.

Can I ask why you couldn't just use a decent squat rack over a full on powercage?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UMM4QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456917795&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=squat+rack&dpPl=1&dpID=41s60Tve16L&ref=plSrch

Something like this for a home gym would be perfect. Looking at your design it looks like your gunning for something more commercial sized. But looking at your lifts at around 500lb, that would be overkill.

I'm not trying to shit on your idea mate, just trying to give you another route to go. And one that may very well work out cheaper in the long run.

"Squat rack supports up to 300 lb" lmao that is final destination waiting to happen. OP just save up for a decent quality power rack. Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench/dp/B004UMM4QC/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1475095596&sr=1-4&keywords=power+rack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GJFGE0K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MpGXrePD4JCm8

I got one of these for my 2008. Mounted the control on the left side of the center console. It's been fantastic so far. Play Pause Track Forward and Back, starts up and pairs automatically when your car turns on, and doesn't interfere with the existing hands free phone system built into the Prius. You can use your steering wheel volume controls to adjust the audio as you would any other AUX source. It's by far the best balance of functionality, features, and affordability that I've found.

I looked through all the comments so I'm pretty confident this hasn't been mentioned yet.

Something I always travel with is an outlet converter and a small portable power strip.

This combo really come in handy when you need to use more than one outlet at once (charge a phone, laptop, and digital camera battery, etc.), especially if you're traveling with another person.

I have both of the items linked, and neither take up much room in my carry on luggage (I have an Osprey Porter 46). They're easy to tuck away in a nook, and the power strip's prongs fit into itself, eliminating bulk.

These could go really well the the battery pack many have suggested. Gotta keep all those devices juiced up!

I love camping. This is the coolest thing I can find, hands down. It's just so cheap, and with great reviews. Honestly, a lot of ultralight canister stoves have mixed reviews and are in the $30-120 range. The only part that's keeping me from getting it is that I can't get it delivered to Canada. C'est la vie on amazon.ca. Amazon.com gets all the cool stuff.

I'd have to go with Dead Space 3. I played the first one and loved how terrifying it could be, and I just bought the second one. I'll have a week or two with nothing to do coming up, so I'm thinking of marathoning them.

An amp will definitely fix the volume and bass impact, but most don't have a mic input so you'll have to get a splitter for the boompro. If you just want to use it with the PC the E10k acts as an external soundcard as well as amp, but the A3 has a battery so you could use that with your phone on the go. If you want virtual surround a soundcard like a Soundblaster Z or external soundcard like the Xonar U7 would work.

What splitter are you using? Something like this? Try that, if it doesn't work, you may just have to get a better headset, or preferably separate headphones and a mic. Splitters like the one I linked will split a 4-contact 3.5mm plug into separate 2-contact(mono) 3.5mm mic and 3-contact (stereo) 3.5mm headphones plugs. The problem is, some headsets designed for phones add extra features such as volume controls and call-control buttons. These send wonky-ass signals down one of the 2 circuits (mic or headphones), and if that's the case, you just won't have much luck with either the cans or mic with those headsets on a PC.

It sounds like you may have a splitter like I've linked, so I think you're just SOL. Get better equipment.

Sennheiser HD598 - You do not need an amplifier or dac unless you hear static.

For the mic I use this inside this plugged into my PC's 3.5mm headphone in jack and it is the best mic i've ever had and amazing for the price, better than a blue yeti imo.

If you're on console things get a bit trickier, you'll want essentially the same headphones, a modmic, and a headphone-mic jack combiner such as this.

Around $50 or less, I could stretch it a little if the benefits are worth it.

Honestly I bought these Sony MDR-XB500 headphones for around $70 before finding this sub so I'm uncertain if they're good enough to warrant buying an amp?

If not then I found this Sennheiser adapter that I wish I saw before buying my last one.

You'll be better off to just buy a cheap bench and use it inside a power rack like this .. that'll open up the exercise possibilities also. (squats, chins, presses) By setting the bottom bars at the appropriate height, it's easier to bail out if you're using too much weight without a spotter.

I had a bench setup like what you're describing (though with wider supports), and I found it to just take up a lot of space for no reason. It's not conducive to most other exercises you might ever decide to do. Even for casual/supportive work for other activities, the rack is still really useful and doesn't take up much more floor space than your bench does.

> Does that mean I need to get headphones with 2 jacks?

Kind of, you can get a splitter like this to separate the mic line.

> Which one is the best one to use for gaming purposes (or are they all the same)?

Your motherboard and top of case ports are the same. If fact, you can't use both at the same time (in most cases). Use whichever, I tend to favor the motherboard ones as I've had issues with the connector for the case ports, either bad connection or EMI.

I love cheap-but-works. We use this 3.9 oz ultra-cheapo from Amazon. Yes, you do need canisters, but it works perfectly. For high altitudes obviously the correct fuel is an issue, as is recycling the cans. Not a "fashionable" choice. https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_11?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1468612734&sr=1-11&keywords=backpacking+stove

Yesterday.. my power rack came in! I even managed to assemble it all before bedtime. I'm super pumped for this - I've always wanted one in my house (I really don't like going to the gym alone) and now I do :) Time to get my lift on!

Today My goal is to track my food on MFP. Also I decided I really need to cut the "fluff" out of my life - things I do that waste time and really serve no purpose. Like surf the internet/play on my phone for hours on end! Or sit on the couch right when I get home from work. If only I could stay moving, I would get so much more accomplished in the day to day. Also I am on a mission to acquire an Olympic barbell.

Otherwise.. Happy Halloween!

I am sure this is not what you were looking for. The adapter you're showing in the pic is for airplanes, some older planes have two plugs, just for headphones, which requires you to purchase their proprietary crap. You can see that e.g. the plugs shown will support only a mono signal, only combined they will produce stereo, but only for the headphone, not for the mic.

The link below should be more along the lines of what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2LXOMRZKPF4FK&keywords=headset+adapter&qid=1564415751&s=gateway&sprefix=headset+a%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-4

EDIT: A pic of what your plug from the headset looks like might help as well, just to confirm.

Thanks for the reply.

I have narrowed my searches down to 3 headbands.

1. Sennheiser Foam Headband Pad
   
   
2. Mayflower Electronics Fostex T50RP Comfort Headband
   
   
3. This random clip-on headband that I found since I couldn't find the beyerdynamic one you mentioned
   
   Out of all the 3, I think I like the Mayflower one the most. It looks really comfortable.

Try craigslist, you can sometimes find cheap power racks on there. You don't need anything fancy, something like this would work, but keep in mind it doesn't have safety bars. You may need to upgrade to something like this later on, because it's easier to bail on a squat with the safety bars. You don't need a spotter if you practice safely failing a rep with an empty/lightly loaded bar.

I'm not sure what price range you're looking for, but the plantronics rig headset may be solid for what you're looking for. You'll need to buy a digital optical cable as well to hook it up to the ps4 audio, but it allows for selection of one or both audio sources and dynamic volume controls for both audio sources.

Trailer
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GS2AG_6jciw

http://www.amazon.com/Plantronics-Stereo-Gaming-Headset-Xbox-360/dp/B00EV00MZ8

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B001TH7GSW

Edit: Thanks for the gold!!

http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Protector-SCH-i515-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344398907&sr=8-1&keywords=galaxy+nexus+matte+case

That's what I have and it's very very good. I really like it. I bought the same case for my S3 as well just because the color is so nice from the same company and so did my uncle.

It's a nice case.

stock up on canned/dehydrated/dry food (cereal/rice/ramen/peanutbutter/raisins/etc) -- don't neglect canned veggies you'd be amazed how quickly you'll start craving them -- stock up on R E A L money, stock up on guns and especially ammo (barter purposes). 10-20 gallons of water in GOOD long-term water storage containers is also a great idea. a lightweight portable water filter straw like this could also prove invaluable, especially if you have to hit the woods. make sure you have some fuel for cooking those noodies -- you can get a dirt-cheap backpacking stove for five bux on amazon, fresh out of chinese slave hands, then buy 4-5 canisters of this stuff (will run you about 5-6 bucks per can at shart-your-pants-mart). will last a single person months if you're only cooking dinner. might consider storing some gasoline in case you need to gtfo quick and the looters already hit quik-trip, might consider burying a portion of your R E A L money. hoarding a bit of emergency CASH is also a must; it ain't gonna become completely worthless in an hour and in non-financial collapse scenarios you'll need it.

a tent is GREAT to have, the woods will be safer than the city in a true just-f-my-country-up-fam situation. make sure you got flashlights, extra batteries, SOME form of protection if for whatever reason you can't get guns&ammo -- pepper spray, tazers, baseball bats, blahblah. if you're blind make sure you have an extra pair of glasses that you can see somewhat-clearly out of, cause if your original pair gets busted you are completely and utterly BONED. make sure you have warm clothing, winter clothing, even if you're in florida; if you gotta bail you don't know where you'll have to bail to.

oh yeah, and TP. it's always handy.

by the way, normies will say this is all super-paranoid stuff and not worth the hassle, but none of this stuff takes up much room, it's easy to get, and it will be utterly priceless if things go south, even if just locally, as you're experiencing now. the people who don't prepare at all will be powerless in such a situation, and honestly, if they're adults, probably shouldn't be pitied. one area the mormons have it right actually; they prepare and don't get complacent.

to quote the fake mad-eye moody, "constant vigilance"

Budget: I would like it to be <$150

Source: PC, iPhone 6

Isolation: idk

Preferred Type: earbuds w/mic

Preferred Balance: idk

Preferred Music: EDM, hip-hop

Past Headphones: iPhone headphones

Basically I am looking for something to replace my iPhone headphones. I want earbuds like the iPhone headphones, but better quality. I use the headphones for phone calls and use the mic for online gaming. I recently built a PC and it has a separate audio jack for audio and mic, and I cannot figure out how to get the mic to work for my iPhone headphones with the PC (motherboard if it helps). I have something like this which I bought but it still doesnt let me use the iPhone headphones as a mic.

I found this which is an option I guess, but I won't be able to use the mic for the iPhone. Is there a product that will work with my PC and iPhone to function as headphones and mic?

Edit: Should I try a different audio mic splitter adapter? Maybe this one?

This "only" supports 800 lbs.

This will good enough until you decide on Texas vs Ohio power bar I don't think it has center knurling, but I'm sure you could find a similar one with it for the same money.

This only supports 300 lbs, but you can always rebuild the framing out of 4x4 wooden posts. I can tell you it doesn't collapse even when you have around 500 lbs on it.

Then you just need weights, Craigslist, or if you want new, walmart has them for a little less than 1$ a lb. Make sure your 45's are the right size, or you'll end up doing deficit deadlifts.

I have a rack of the same design, commonly called the "Atlas" rack.
Amazon Link - Bonanza Link

I just bought this on Bonanza a week or two ago. I believe that this is the best power rack deal on the net right now, and that many of these brands are getting the same overall design manufactured. There is a bit of variation, however, and my rack didn't match their pics exactly:

• Some versions have J-hooks, others have pegs. Mine has chrome pegs.
  
• Some have pegs on the safety bars, others have rounded handles. Mine has chrome safety bars with rounded handles.
  
• Some variants have the pull-up bar attach to the front posts, others just behind them. Mine is just behind.
  
• Other superficial differences like paint color and hole markings. Mine is a dark, blueish grey finish with no markings.
  
  The rack is solid, I recommend it. The only downside for me is that I'm too tall to overhead press inside of it. No biggie, I just move the bar out and the pegs forward to press.

Just buy sennheiser pc 2 and an y cable works great and is cheap and a lot better than xbox og headset, the only side down i bought the same y cable in another amazon (spain) the one nearest my country and was very cheap at the time like 6\7 euros

Yes. There are ports on all motherboards (USB, Audio, Ethernet, etc) and there is a hole in the back of all cases. When you install the motherboard, you can access these ports from the backside of the case (P.S. Make sure to put in the Port Shield before you put in the motherboard).

Also, all cases have some ports near the front (Usually two USB and two audio ports, one for headphones and one for microphones. For this case, it's just one audio-port that is both input and output. This good for headsets with a built-in mic, as you usually need a splitter like this) For this case, they are on the top of the case near the front. There are a few cables inside the case that connect to the motherboard, this is how these ports that are on the case connect to the motherboard, and by extension your PC.

I have a pair of those Senns and I really like them. They are my first pair of real headphones, so take my advice with a grain of salt, though. I listen to a wide variety of music from jazz to metal to electronic to hip hop. I decided on buying the Sennheisers because of their flat, neutral sound, outstanding customer service reputation, and the desire for closed, over-ear headphones.

I bought mine through Amazon refurbished for $108 (shipping included), instead of the MSRP of $200. Here is the link to the seller.

You can use an optical tos cable connected to an optical to RCA adapter then to an RCA to 1/8th cable and a 1/8th coupler if necessary. I do exactly this in my bedroom. Works great and the sound still comes from the tv too which is great too.

I'm not saying "get this specific one", but I always travel with something like this.

Yeah, it's a small brick, but it doesn't take up all that room. It'll have the right plugs for any international outlet, and it has USB connections as well....so, you could charge your phone (via USB), your travel battery (via USB), and your camera battery (via plug) at the same time.

I travel with a lot of electronics, so I also travel with a mini-travel power strip like this (again, I'm not saying "buy this one", just that it's an example of something I travel with), so that I can charge multiple plugs and multiple USBs at the same time.

The small brick for the outlets and the small travel power strip really don't take up much room at all, and they ensure that I can charge all my devices no matter the destination. All I need is one outlet, and I can charge something like 5 devices via USB and plugs.

Cool thing about the dual-shock as opposed to the 360 wireless controller is that they can be connected via bluetooth (if your mobo has it, if not this can be really cheap). Or just use the cable, either way these are fun controllers.

Step 1: Download and install Motionjoy Drivers.
Step 2: Download and install Better DS3.
Step 3: Setup your Better DS3 profile (I used the Xbox 360 setup).
Step 4 (Bluetooth and therefore optional): Connect your controller via bluetooth. Buy something like this Bluetooth 3.0 adapter. I believe the dongle needs to be at least Bluetooth 2.0 to connect the DS3.

Does this cable exist? Mini-XLR to dual 3.5mm cable with built-in microphone. I have some AKG K240 headphones and I'd like to use them as a gaming headset, but I need a mic. I know I could get a tiny mic and somehow attach it to the headphones and run 2 cables, but I was wondering if anyone makes a cable that is Mini XLR (like for the K240s) and then has an in-line mic built-in, with a split for 2x 3.5mm plugs on the end.

I found this which is very close but I'd need 2 3.5mm plugs since my computer (custom desktop i just built) and my speakers (logitech z5500) both have separate headphone and mic jacks, and apparently neither support the combined headphones+mic 3.5mm plug (like most phones do). I know I can also just get that cable and then split it with something like this but if there was cable all in one that would be awesome.

First, I agree: don't go wireless. Just get a recent controller with the 3.5mm jack built in.

Second, "console" headsets are almost always 50% more expensive than PC equivalents, and the sound quality is almost always 50% worse. Not saying that gaming headsets need to be "audiophile" grade (they don't), but if you're going to charge $100+ for a gaming headset, it had better sound like a $100 pair of headphones, not a $20 pair with lots of cool gaming logos.

Personally, I just bought this adapter off Amazon and it lets you use any PC gaming headset with the Xbox. Hooked it up to my Logitech $40 headset and couldn't be happier.

I'm not Canadian but since I'm bored I found these

Sennheiser HD 380

Sennheiser HD 280

Shure SE215 (Just bough a pair of the clear ones not 2 hours ago :D)

Those are all the ones I could find without posting ones that have already been posted in their own thread by other users. Hope it was helpful anyways

> ...which I guess is kinda useful for a rack with multiple users

And single users. I imagine most people bench and squat with the safeties at different heights.

You might also want to consider the Atlas:

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Chrome-Safety/dp/B004UMM4QC

It's a bit between the two you listed. Nicer finish and a little heavier than the Titan. A little lighter than the NYBB. It has weird hooks though.

If you can swing it I'd save a little more for the HD though:

http://www.titandistributorsinc.com/default/hd-titan-power-rack-with-2-x3-tubes.html

I use this for pocket use: http://www.amazon.com/Diztronic-Flexible-Revision-Protector-Packaging/dp/B0065PGWQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1334257831&sr=1-1

but I recently got this: http://www.tridenteer.com/products/Kraken-AMS-Case-for-Samsung-Galaxy-Nexus-With-Holster-Bundle--%28Black%29.html and I like it much more. It's 2 cases in one and has cheap accessories like a car dock, bike dock and tripod mount that fit to the case.

No, but a $4 compact camping stove off amazon and a $5 canister from the store sure is.

Seriously though...these things are invaluable for camping... last time camping I heated up some leftover Caribbean jerked pork, some soup, some coffee in the mornings... and its the size of a deck of cards pretty much, and the canisters are pretty small too.

Fiio makes some pretty nice budget and portable amps.

What are you looking for? For a introductory tube amp, I would reccomend the Vali + Modi amp/dac combo. They are made by Schiit, and their products are really good for their price.

I use: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z5HT2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 on my laptop & http://www.amazon.com/Medialink-USB-Bluetooth-Adapter-Technology/dp/B004LNXO28/ref=pd_cp_pc_2 on my Desktop pretty much plug in play om both
(Works great on Windows & Linux)

Also you will wanna grab this http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-DS4-To-XInput-Wrapper (Windows Only) or https://github.com/chrippa/ds4drv (Linux only) , gives you more control over the controller and enables the touchpad

I have one of these digital controllers which does exactly what you're looking for. I'm super happy with it.

If you're thinking cheaper, there's an analog version as well.

Got this HIMBOX for $30 and I can't really complain for the price. It's discrete and let's me pause/play/next on Pandora. It connects automatically and the sound quality is really good most of the time. Gripes: I find that in very cold weather the sound quality diminishes, which sounds weird but it happens. Also you do often have to open the app on your phone so it's not always 100% hands free, but usually you can open an app while you're walking to your car, pocket the phone and just hit play once you're seated

picked mine up just about 6 years ago and I just got some HE400s yesterday. Have fun!

I still love mine, they are super beefy, but the headband will go at some point. This replacement works, I promise. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most cars with bluetooth pair automatically (and reliably) when you turn your car on. You don't need to take your phone out of your pocket many times. Just hit play to start up where you left off.

I've had 2 cars like this. In one of them, I used one of these: https://amzn.com/B00GJFGE0K

Worked really well, and I liked it more than fumbling with aux cable all the time.

I am looking into buying my first pair of nice headphones to replace my gaming headset. I currently use a Logitech G930 which is nice but doesnt have the sound quality I thought it did (recently tried a friend's nice pair of sennheiser headphones and was blown away at the difference. I cant recall model right now, sorry). I looked in the buying guide on the sidebar and picked out the CAL! 2. I plan on using them at home on my gaming computer and on my phone/laptop for music. It having a built in mic is also a bonus.

I have 3 questions regarding my situation.

1. Do i need to buy any sort of amp or other peripherals ( forgive my lack of knowledge im fairly new at this) to get the most out of these?
   
   
2. I was looking at buying this splitter as recommended by amazon for use on my computer with a mic. Will using that cable degrade sound quality at all?
   
   
3. Will the built in "sound booster" on my motherboard(MSI Z97 Gaming 5) do anything for me or should I simply ignore those features? With that is ther any other sort of software I should be using to manage the sound from my computer?

this seems to be the case of choice for nexus owners. Cheap and awesome. I bought one based on research on here. I love it.

Sennheiser 363D along with the combo audio adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM36VU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to use on my XB1 and PS4, love em they are loud and sound great.

there are two types of single 3.5mm theres OMTP (which is for older phones) and then theres CTIA (which is apples standard)

You need CTIA, I know on that page it says its ctia, but I'm pretty sure its actually OMTP because I ordered that same splitter but from the us amazon and it states that it doesnt work with apple/iphone devices

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I3A47I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have had the the corded 3.5 headphone jack version (8323) for the past five years, at the time was $28 including shipping. Would absolutely recommend if you get alternative ear pads and possibly a head band of this kind for comfort. I use Beyerdynamic Earpads. I can look up the exact links for the two products on Amazon later if anyone is interested.

I also applied a very nice decal to mine to remove the mono price branding from DecalGirl. It's under Kicker HP541 as these are just rebranded by Monoprice.

You're right, but I got curious at how cheap you could go with new equipment.

I found:

• Power Rack - $249.99 + $99 Shipping - Amazon.com
  
• 300lb Olympic Weight Set With Bar - $199.98 - Dicks Sporting Goods
  
• Flat Weight Bench - $49.22 - Amazon.com
  
  Total: $598.19
  
  None of it is top-of-the-line stuff, but they're all reviewed well. It looks like you could get started with all-new equipment for about $600.
  

Depends on your price range. A great starter DAC is the FiiO E10K which has a DAC and an amplifier built in, highly recommended

The next step up would be for the Schiit Modi although, it doesn't have a built in amp and requires the companion piece Schiit Magni

Those are the two I would recommend for sub $100 and $200

You could always try /r/audiophile and /r/headphones for more advice

hey, idk if you solved this but the audio splitter that comes with the Zelda edition only works for the Switch, NOT for the PC. If you want to split the headphones into a mic and and audio, you'll need a different splitter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/MillSO-3-5mm-Jack-Adapter-CTIA/dp/B071NDLCGC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headset+audio+splitter&qid=1555142225&s=electronics&sr=1-3

Hope this helped! I just picked mine up.

I'm looking at Amazon's flash deals today, and the Sennheiser HD 380 and 280 are 55% off. I'm wondering if there's much of a difference between the two quality-wise and whether it'd be worth getting the 380 for $12 more.

Then there's the ultra cheap Sony MDRMA300 which I'd obviously assume is nowhere near as nice as the Sennheisers, but would I really be able to hear that much of a difference? I've never had nice headphones before, so without knowing the pleasures of top quality sounds, maybe I'd be okay with the cheap Sony?

On the other hand, would the Sony die so quickly that having the replace it would mean it'd be more economic to just get the Sennheisers and not have to replace them for like 10+ years?

Thanks.

I would look at getting a better DAC, the DAC on a motherboard is usually one of the cheaper parts.The Behringer UCA202 is better than most motherboad DACs, and even sound cards. The Schiit Modi is really popular over at /r/headphones, and I also know that FiiO makes some quality DACs. Also, the aux cables don't really matter at this price point.

If you want to hear footsteps get the Game One*, they're open backed so you get a better soundstage which is exactly what you need for positioning footsteps.

From what I read make sure you get the 50 Ohm version as the 150 Ohm version you wouldn't be able to drive very well via the controller, but all new versions are the 50 Ohm so you should be fine. I'm not sure how the cable is but if it's a split microphone and headphone jack (which I assume it is seeing as this is in the frequently bought together thing) you'll need to get this: http://amzn.com/B00IM36VU0

* thanks for the correction /u/jtredd

Ok, so, I took a look at one that seemed good.

This one is well within my price range and has glowing reviews:

http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTD-300-Bluetooth-3-0-adapter/dp/B005Z5HT2M/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Look good?

https://shop.turtlebeach.com/us/headsets/recon-50p you can get these but if you have two different connectors for Headsets and Microphones your going to need a PC splitter cable which you can get easily at any store or online https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y4663GG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have both of these and people say I sound hella sexy so its worth.

It's not really a closed back equivalent of the HD 600 afaik but the HM5 is a pretty solid neutral closed back headphone. Between my other pairs (and the broken HM5 headband which was entirely my fault) I don't use it as much because I heavily prefer open headphones but I still like them and they seem to be pretty well regarded in general. They're also on sale right now, no idea for how long.

There's also the HD 380 Pro though I don't have any personal experience with them so I can't say much about them. There also doens't seem to be a lot of talk about them here but they have pretty solid reviews everywhere that sells them and, worst case scenario, a lot of vendors have a 30 day refund system.

Yes.

Pricey and bulky but it works, and will sound better than the OG Pixel's headphone jack (tho I doubt it's noticeable in a car, wouldn't be in mine anyway). You do have other options tho...

You could hook up the cassette adapter to a cheaper Bluetooth receiver (might need a 3.5mm coupler since you'll likely have two male cables, or a different receiver) and you can play music without even taking the phone out of your pocket, and take calls.

I've used various receivers like that for a couple years, you're actually better off than if your car only had a CD player and no aux in...

I bought a replacement cord for my Sennheiser headphones from Amazon. It's been working pretty well for a year now. Maybe you'll have luck looking around there.

This product is suggested when I go to the product page for the PC 330: Sennheiser PCV 05 Combo Audio Adapter

Yeah, I do almost the same I have this travel power strip that goes everywhere with me. Works great for the airport when I need a plug and they're all occupied. I can usually ask someone to share, and never been refused.

That's not true at all. Many headsets come like that, but include a wire adapter that isn't clunky at all. The most popular example are the hyperX clouds.

The adapters look like this.

Sennheiser makes a really nice one, which used to come in a bundle that I bought with an HD650 cable, but looks like you have to buy it separately now:

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-Cable-Adapter-Female-6-3mm/dp/B008JGWY2Y

Of course, there are much cheaper versions than the above, but hopefully you get the picture.

We have it connected to a standard 110 outlet using an 3 stage fan controller to govern the power. On max power it holds the temperature in the keg at about 200F, and 170-180F at the top of the tower. We are looking into one of these to make sure that the temp doesn't get out of hand.

Get a weight set off craigslist. I got an entire set for $90 and it included 2 sets of 45s, 35s, 25s, 10s, and four sets of 5lb plates.

Buy this off amazon

Buy an adjustable bench that goes 0, 45 and 90 degrees off craigslist for $30-50.

And then buy a barbell, don't get a cheap one. Shell out at least like a $100 on a good quality 7ft barbell with a 2 inch diameter.

I would also recommend getting rubber mats to put on the floor, under the squat rack. I use the ones used in kitchens, the rubber mats with holes in them.

Great tip I found them for £5.95 on Amazon UK fulfilled by Amazon UK so free shipping.

They work with xbox but you'll need a y-connector to plug the two plugs (mic and headphone) into a single connector. It's about $5 on amazon. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Kingtop-Adapter-Tablet-Headsets-Version/dp/B01I3A47I4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=audio+gaming+y+adapter&qid=1555561640&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (there's like a dozen companies offering the same generic cable).

• Cage -- $360 shipped
  
  
• 2 horse stall mats -- $80 in total
  
  
• Bench -- $10 from Craigslist
  
  
• Weights -- about $.60 per lb from Craigslist
  
  
• Texas Power Bar -- almost $300 shipped (I splurged on this but it's awesome)
  
  Big initial investment but totally worth it. Working out at home is amazing.

I also really love this power strip, and it is especially helpful when staying in hostel dorm rooms. There are four outlets to charge stuff.

http://www.amazon.ca/Monster-MP-OTG400-BK-Outlets/dp/B000F9YN2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450466408&sr=8-1&keywords=four+outlet+power+bar