(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best pc game controllers

What system you play on is beside the point. Let's see what we can plan out for you.

I'm basing this off of your other comment's projected budget, $500 - $1000.

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First and foremost, your wheel and pedals. Whether you start with your cockpit/wheelstand or wheel is mostly up to preference, but I'd start with a wheel first, since a wheel clamped to a desk with pedals on a floor is the minimum of simracing, whilst a rig with no wheel is just a glorified gaming seat. Plus, what you get first sets the budget of what comes after it, and I wouldn't prioritize an expensive rig over a good wheel.

Anyway, where you go from here pretty much depends on how much you're looking to spend. If your budget is $500 - $1000 and you're looking to get a whole setup going, I'd keep the wheel+pedal spending to $500 or less. This will leave you with a decent amount of wiggle room for rigs and accessories. All of the suggested wheels are compatible with Xbox One.

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Wheels and Pedals

• Thrustmaster TMX
  
  A budget wheel if there ever was one. It's by no means a bad wheel, for $200. It has reasonably strong FFB and similar build to its more expensive counterpart, the TX. Though with a brushed motor and belt-gear hybrid system, it's not as strong nor as smooth as the TX. As someone who's tried its PlayStation counterpart (the T150, basically the same base with a slightly different rim), I'd say it's 75% the quality for 50% the price. If you're on a strict budget and know you'll be on one for a while, it's a pretty good deal.
  
  ^(NOTE: As of writing this, it's currently on sale for $160!)
  
  
• Thrustmaster TMX Pro
  
  If you're planning to drive with an H-gate shifter in the future, then this version of the TMX is a good deal. Instead of the standard 2-pedal Thrustmaster set, it comes with Thrustmater's T3PA Pedals. On top of getting a clutch pedal, it includes a conical brake mod, designed to give more tension to your brake pedal and allow you to better control braking. Plus, in just about any wheel-supported Xbox One game you can map the brake to the clutch and put the conical brake mod behind it, giving your legs more room if you're not using an H-gate shifter. Though if you know you never want to use an H-gate, it might be better value to just get the standard TMX and use a DIY solution for modding the brake.
  
  
• Thrustmaster TX
  
  In case you're wondering, yes, it comes with Ferrari branding as standard. Anyway, this is arguably the best bang-for-your-buck. TX TX's rim is interchangeable, so if you're not a fan of the stock one, you can replace it with another Thrustmaster rim of your choosing. On top of that, its belt-driven FFB system is a bit stronger and considerably smoother than the TMX, not to mention that it's hard mountable (is able to be screwed-in to a rig instead of needing a clamp). While some get the TMX as a starter wheel and upgrade later, this wheel is often people's one-stop for sim racing, since it's just that good.
  
  ^(NOTE: You really picked the best time to get into sim racing, this wheel is only $257 as of writing this! $400 is a decent price for this wheel but the current price is an absolute steal.)
  
  
• Thrustmaster TX Leather Edition
  
  Similarly to the TMX, this is Thrustmaster's step-up version of the wheel; not only does it include a special black version of the T3PA pedals, it also includes a much better rim. While its style is more akin to the TMX, its rim is made from a metal frame, making it feel more solid than the TMX and standard TX plastic rims, and is wrapped in a nice leather instead of rubber. For only $67 more than the standard TX, it's a significant savings over buying the parts separately.
  
  
• Fanatec CSL Elite
  
  This is the premium class of wheels, for the most part. Fanatec's hardware is generally only built from the best of materials and offer some of the best performance, along with being open to Fanatec's wider, more advanced selection of parts and accessories. However, unlike most wheel bases, this is only the wheel base, no rim or pedals included. If you want Fanatec's base CSL offerings for a rim and pedals, the price jumps to about $470, the same price as the TX, but that's only with two pedals. If you want their 3-pedal base instead, the price jumps up to $590, and if you want a GT style rim instead, you're already over $600 with the 2-pedal set, $700 with the 3-pedal set. Fanatec's gear is top-quality, but it comes at a price. Is the bit of extra quality worth the prices that the parts quickly add up to? That's subjective. At the very least, I wouldn't recommend Fanatec Gear if you're on a budget, but maybe consider it for the future.
  
  _____
  
  Rigs and More
  
  There are some Xbox One wheels for you to consider. I hope my explanations made sense, I wanted to make sure to convey the different aspects of each wheel so you could better make a decision.
  
  If you want my personal recommendation though, I'd say the TX, especially since it's on sale. $250 for that base is a great price, it's a near-perfect balance of budget with performance.
  
  Next on the list, a rig. If we're assuming that you're willing to reach towards the upper-end of your budget, then continuing here after you get your wheel is a no-brainer. Having a dedicated place to secure your wheel and mount your pedals makes for a far better experience than sitting at a table, especially if you're playing in front of a TV.
  
  Keep in mind that there are two types of rigs, wheel stands and cockpits. Wheelstands are only meant to mount your wheel and pedals, where you sit is up to you. They're designed to be foldable and easy to carry, making them perfect for playing in front of the living room TV or using in a small apartment. Dedicated cockpits take things to the next level, securing your seat to the wheel and pedals means that you won't have to worry about anything sliding around, and makes things more comfortable overall.
  
  As much as I want to continue though, there are many, many great options to choose from and reddit has a length limit on comments. For more information on building your rig, you can check out the r/Simracing Buyer's Guide in the wiki. It includes everything wheels and rigs to accessories and monitor mounts.
  
  Cheers, and let me know if you have any questions.

This review applies directly to iPhone 6+, 7+, and 8+ devices, but is probably relevant for a wide array of devices. Lots of words follow. TL;DR: the triggers I bought are well made and add a lot to the gameplay. Combined with the grip case, it's an awesome combo, but the grip case is a bit wonky (D-pad doesnt work in all situations), and making everything fit requires a normal slip-cover case on the phone.


Folks,

Recently jumped down the rabbit hole and bought a set of L1R1 triggers and a grip case for my iPhone 6+. After having spent a few hours tweaking control settings, testing things in Training Mode (hurrah for that!), and then playing through a half dozen games or so, I thought I'd give a detailed review of these things, since there doesn't seem to be one on the sub yet, either for the triggers or for a grip case.

I got interested in the grip case before the triggers. Holding my phone was leading to cramps, and so I'd rigged up a little makeshift stand/grip out of some foam blocks, and figured I may as well just get a case. After shopping around on Amazon I settled on this case:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0769NK92M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

on the basis that it seemed a good compromise between cost and features. I was also shopping Prime-only; you can probably get this item cheaper if you're willing to wait a week or two for shipping.

Though I picked the case out before I decided I wanted triggers, a quick scan of the Q&A suggested that it was compatible with them. It is trigger-compatible, sort of, but we'll get to that in a minute.

Speaking of triggers, there are about a half-dozen different designs or so, and I suspect that there are build-quality variations within the same design family, as different companies rush to make them more cheaply. I had watched a few YouTube videos and figured the best design was the one with the cam-actuated clamp on the back of the device. I chose pretty much at random, mostly trying to pick something under 10 bucks that still looked well-designed. Settled on these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C8ZZT6H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Note the slip case on my phone in the photo above. When I said above that the grip and triggers sort of worked together, that's the rub: this combination will not work without a case. And given the variety of cases, it might not work with all cases. It works with mine (a Magpul Field Case), but I think that's a matter of luck. If the case wasn't there to make the phone sit higher in the grip and the trigger sit higher relative to the phone, the back arms on the triggers wouldn't clear the grip case. The spring tension of the case and the foam padding sort of hold the phone in place, but pushing down on the trigger pushes the entire phone down, and levers the triggers out of position, causing them to stop working. Note that the triggers themselves work just fine with or without a case, but if you want to combine triggers and grip, you're going to need a slipcover case on your phone.

The Triggers:

There seems to be a lot of disagreement as to the quality of the triggers in general, their usefulness, etc. In part, that's probably because there seem to be a few different designs of trigger. As I mentioned above, I sought out one of the cam-locked, spring-actuated designs because it seemed the most sensible and stable. I think I may have lucked out, because these triggers are quite well built, have a smartly designed mechanism, and should last for a long time without wearing out.

The body of the trigger is made of ABS plastic, which is quite durable. There's no issue with flash or jagged mold lines, they're smooth and came from good molds. The outer arms have a non-slip sticker on the inside, opposite the cam-lock mechanism, that helps keep the triggers firmly in place. When using a phone case, the cam arms might be unncessesarty to hold the trigger in place; they firmly clip onto mine without any issue. The plastic is thick enough to savely bend as it slides over thicker phones and cases. Note that one trigger will sit on top of the power button or volume button. The design of the triggers, however, is such that the force of pushing the trigger mostly goes straight into the phone, not onto the button. You can accidentally push the power/volume button by pressing the middle of the trigger device, directly on top of the button, but normal use shouldn't be a problem. With a case on the phone this is even less of an issue.

The trigger mechanism is six pieces. The upper arm is the trigger itself, which you depress to actuate the mechanism. This levers the contact arm and its attached pad downward against the screen, against the pressure of two springs that offer good resistance. The interface between the two moving pieces is wrapped in what looks like fiberglass tape, presumably to make everything slide nicely and improve durability, as the mechanism won't wear out from plastic-on-plastic rubbing.

They won't survive being stepped on, but if you take care of them (they come with a case!) they should last long enough for you to get your ten bucks' worth out of them. Add in the fact that they're (at least in my opinion) a huge boost to gameplay---with or without a grip case---and I have to say I'm very happy with them.

Speaking of gameplay, the big thing here is that it's now totally possible to run, aim, and shoot all at the same time, without having to worry about getting carpal tunnel syndrome from using claw grip. (Seriously, I tried it for a few days. My wrists. Ouch.)

One of the first things you'll notice when using the triggers is that different combat situations make it more instinctive/easier to use the left or right trigger. In close quarters, the left trigger is superior, as your right hand is busy with large aim inputs, jumping/crouching/leaning, etc. Precise trigger pulls are especially harder with the right trigger when you're circle strafing. Meanwhile, the left hand is stable because the left thumb is always planted on the screen to control movement, and so the left index finger can be more precise.

On the other hand, when sniping or in long range combat, the right trigger just feels natural because most games use R1 as the primary fire button. When you have time to set up your shots, I feel like I get better reaction time and fast-tapping from the right trigger because right-handed. Sorta makes sense. But there's a notable deficit in close-in fights as even with a grip case, the need to lift your thumb to continue to pan the camera, etc just makes things clumsy.

In the end I settled on using L1 for fire and R1 for ADS; my preference would be to have both triggers be fire buttons and have some other method of activating ADS (3D Touch, maybe?), but the extra stability in close quarters is worth the slightly unnatural feel, which will of course get better with time. You could also just run both triggers to fire and keep ADS as a right-thumb function, which I've tried, but honestly the ability to ADS without moving your thumb once you zero in on a target is too good to go without.

Note that the two fire buttons are not the same. One of them will not let you adjust your aim if you are holding it down. The other will. Make sure you place the correct one underneath the trigger, or you will not be able to circle-strafe or even use automatic fire effectively.

The Case:

The grip case is not quite as well-made as the triggers. It's not bad, it has a few smart eatures, and it does improve gameplay, but its nowhere near as big of a boost as the triggers.

In terms of materials, it seems mostly to be made out of polystyrene or some other plastic more brittle than ABS, with the exception of the D-pad and it's armature, which are made out of some kind of softer, translucent plastic. The D-pad itself is pretty fragile looking; though it's theoretically possible to swap it to the right side of the device, I wouldn't want to put enough force on it to pry it out of its slot. The slot does give the D-pad a small degree of vertical adjustability in terms of where it lands on your screen, but horizontal placement is non-adjustable. Resistance comes from a simple plastic spring; there really isn't much centering force. But the strength of the D-pad comes from the fact you now have a much more stable grip while moving, because your thumb has actual physical resistance to sliding too far. Combined with the L1 trigger to fire, its game-changing.

You can use the case without the D-pad, and I might actually start doing that, as the D-pad interferes with the operation of parachutes and vehicles. It's great on foot, but you have to flip the arm out of the way every time you get in a car because there's no way to relocate the steering controls. If you use Mode 2 (single joystick), you can sort of steer, and the boost button lets you accellerate, but it's sub-optimal.

The fact that you have to use a slip case on your phone in order to make the triggers work unfortunately means that, at least with my case/phone combo, the slots in the side of the grip that allow for power and audio cable access no longer line up properly. The headphone jack is completely obstructed if the home button is on the left side (which I find more comfortable), and regardless of orientation, the power jack is partially obstructed. I used a razor to cut away some plastic to make room for the power cable.

Hello OP!

From your post and comments, I've gathered that you only need 2 pedals, don't need an H-pattern shifter, and play on the Xbox platform.

Assuming you need your wheel + pedals shipped for $500 AUS, (that's $358 USD, plus shipping costs more for Australia), you actually don't have too many options at all.

If I were to rank all available racing wheels right now, the cheapest level would be the ones without force-feedback. This would include Thrustmaster's T80 and Ferrari 458 Spider Racing Wheel, as well as the Hori Apex. All of these wheels are complete shit, not to sound harsh.

LEVEL 1

The first level of wheels that are good are the ones with gear driven or gear/belt hybrid force feedback. This means that when motors turn the wheel to provide information about traction or oversteer (examples), it may feel "notchy" and loud. They still get the job done. When only listing ones compatible with the Xbox One, these include:

Logitech G29 ($400 AUS + free shipping) - has 3 pedals and comfortable grip, but very bad gear-driven force-feedback

Thrustmaster TMX ($240.83 AUS + $90.13 shipping = $320 AUS) - has 2 pedals, which you say is O.K. Has better force-feedback with a hybrid belt drive/gear driven combo. It is cheaper than Logitech because Logitech is so popular. Do not be fooled, this is an objectively better wheel in almost every way.

​

LEVEL 2

The second level of wheels are the ones that are only belt-driven. These are much smoother quieter, and detailed than Level 1 wheels. When only listing ones compatible with the Xbox One, there is only one wheel base:

Thrustmaster TX Servo Base ($358.41 AUS + $58.30 shipping = $416 AUS)

However, the TX allows switching of wheel rims. You can buy the base by itself (above) and need to buy an individual wheel rim, or you can buy it in a set with pedals and a rim. The only option here seems to be getting a set, since buying the individual parts would be too costly. You've got two options here for a bundle:

Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition ($559 AUS + free shipping)

Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Leather Edition Premium ($699.95 AUS + free shipping)

While both wheels are mechanically identical, I would have to recommend the Leather edition. It comes with a much higher quality wheel rim (leather and not rubber) and also has a much more durable pedal set (3 pedals with metal plates). Still, the Italia edition TX would be a good choice if you can't spend the extra money. It is better than the G29 and TMX.

​

LEVEL 3

Since I saw you talking to some other users about the Fanatec CSL Elite, I might as well discuss these wheels despite it being outside your price range. The Level 3 wheels all use belt-drive systems as well, but are smoother, faster, and quieter than their Level 2 counterparts.

Fanatec Xbox One Competition Pack ($1,109.90 AUS + ??? shipping)

Thrustmaster TS-XW Racer Sparco P310 ($1,099 AUS + ??? shipping)

Both wheels cost around the same and are mechanically almost identical. However, the Thrustmaster has a nicer rim (in my opinion) and has 3 pedals. Still, you should decide this on your own.

​

I hope this helped a great deal, and have fun with whatever wheel you choose! Cheers

Hi,

Okay, as you're only starting out with flight sims, I would recommend using your mouse and keyboard to control your plane at first to see how much you enjoy it. To get started I'd recommend using the FSX tutorials to help you learn the basics - these are found under the missions tab when you first launch the simulator. These should teach you the bare essentials of flying a plane and the basic keyboard controls - if you need some extra help with controls, here's a PDF to help.

After completing these tutorials you should have a feel for whether or not you enjoy flight simming enough to upgrade your equipment, because although the mouse and keyboard are OK to control with, they're fairly inconvenient in the long run. If you decide to invest in some better equipment I've got recommendation I'd like to make. Using things like this is going to make playing flight sim a lot more interesting and fun.

Speedlink Black Widow Flightstick - This product is great for starting out. It's pretty cheap and has everything you'll need to make flight simming more fun. It has a convenient throttle control, a good few buttons and will definitely last you a long time.

Now if you've got some extra money, rudder pedals are another great way to make simming easier, but these tend to come in at quite high prices.

As for what you shouldn't do, there really isn't much to say here. The great thing about flight sim is that you can fly a plane in any way you want without consequence. Do whatever you want to do, if you want to go for realism and professionalism then that's fine, and if you want to go for crashing and messing about then that's fine too; but I'm going to assume like most other simmers you'll prefer the first choice.

To learn and practice new techniques and upgrade your realism, Youtube is a great way to to so. There a hundreds of channels out there with tutorials and training videos to help you out, I'll put a few of these below as this is how I learned.

FSXGenius Flight School - These videos are very informative and there's plenty of content to keep you learning for a while.
Belynz - Not really a tutorial series, but watching this guy is genuinely entertaining and you will most likely learn something along the way.
FlyFSX - Not really a video but another great learning technique.

1. You should note the dates on those reviews. The content currently making up Horizons was released over a period of 3 years (2016-2018), so reviews early on in that time will not be reflective of the current reality.
   
   As for what Horizons gets you, here is a list
   
   
   

• Planetary landing - Allows you to land on airless planets and drive around on them in a buggy (Surface Reconnaissance Vehicle, or SRV) . This is semi-relevant from the start, as it gives you access to missions with planetary bases as destinations, but not much of a loss.
  
• Engineers - These guys will modify/improve your ship's modules for increased/different performance. Not relevant early-mid game until you get into ships you'll want to spend the time/resources engineering as you'll be keeping them long-term. This is also pretty much mandatory for PVP.
  
• Ship-launched fighters - Allows certain ships to equip a fighter hanger and launch a small, NPC-piloted parasite fighter to provide additional firepower. The smallest ship that can equip said hangar is the Keelback, which is a "Combat Freighter" that costs 2.5m credits. It has a typical 2 medium/2 small weapons loadout, middling shields, good armour, and horrible manoeuvrability, but the fighter allows it to punch far above its weight class. Without said fighter, the ship is pretty pointless. The next ship above that that can use one is the Federal Gunship, a 35m credit heavy combat ship that requires naval rank (which requires significant grinding), the Krait MkII, a medium multipurpose ship similar to the Python, but more combat oriented, and the Alliance Crusader, a variant of the Chieftain (see below). From there, all the others are big ships that cost north of 100m credits, and two of those require naval ranks. My fighter writeup has additional information on this subject.
  
• Multi-crew - This allows you to have multiple human players controlling a single ship, with the extra people either controlling turrets or flying the above fighters. This is the most early-game relevant thing, as it would allow you to join the crew of a more experienced player with a larger ship to learn from them. However, this feature is not much used.
  
• The Dolphin and Beluga passenger liners - These are smaller and larger versions of Saud Kruger's Orca passenger liner which is available in the base game. These three ships are the only ones in the game that are able to equip Luxury-class passenger cabins that are required for some passenger missions. The Dolphin can be relevant fairly early game if you are interested in doing such missions, as the ship only costs just under 1m credits (as opposed to the Orca, which is almost 50m). But if you aren't interested in doing passenger missions, they are mostly irrelevant, though the Beluga has been used by some as a non-traditional exploration ship. Its extremely large fuel tank allows very long periods between refuelling, allowing for long stints of neutron boosting.
  
• The Alliance Chieftain - A mid-range medium fighter created through a partnership between The Alliance and Lakon Spaceways. Lorewise, it's designed for Thargoid combat and as such has quite a strong hull for its class.
  
• The Alliance Challenger - A Chieftain variant with different weapons, more armour, and more shields, though not quite as manoeuvrable.
  
• The Alliance Crusader - Another Chieftain variant that trades out a hardpoint for a fighter hangar.
  
• The Krait MkII - A medium multirole ship made by Faulcon DeLacy and inspired by the Krait Lightspeeder from previous Elite games. Similar to the Python, but more combat oriented, with ship launched fighter capability. Also features a unique underslung cockpit that gives excellent views, including of the pair of medium hardpoints flanking it, making it one of the few ships that allow you to see your weapons deploying and shooting.
  
• The Krait Phantom - New in 3.3, this Krait variant trades out the fighter capability for greater speed and manoeuvrability.
  
• The Mamba - New in 3.3, this race-inspired high-end medium combat ship from Zorgon
  Peterson provides some competition to the Fer-de-Lance with heavier weapons (1H2L2S) and higher speeds, though it isn't quite as good in the turns.
  
• Thargoid planetary stuff - Horizons is required to access AX and Guardian weaponry, which is needed for fighting thargoid interceptors. Scouts can be taken on with conventional weaponry, though not as effectively as with the AX and Guardians stuff.
  
• Tech Brokers - These guys offer new and experimental tech, both of human and Guardian origin. Weapons, FSD boosters, Guardian-inspired ship launched fighters, etc.
  
• Materials traders - These guys will let you trade out engineering materials, so you can swap out what you don't need for what you do.
  
  In total, I would strongly recommend getting Horizons.
  
  On the controller matter, the basic controlelr will work fine. I (playing on PC) personally find a HOTAS to be more immersive, but the basics are fine for play. If you do opt for a stick, there is only one worthwhile HOTAS for Xbox , which is the Thrustmaster HOTAS One. It's a Xbox-compatible clone of their HOTAS 4 (which is its equivalent for PS4), which is basically the PC/PS3 HOTAS X with upgraded internal hardware. There's a second "option" in the HORI Ace Combat 7 HOTAS, but it is apparently utter garbage.
  
  As for grind, you never need to travel across the milky way. Almost the entirety of civilization is concentrated in "the Bubble", which is a 500-ish lightyear sphere around the Sol system (where Earth is). Outside the Colonia region (a second smaller Bubble about 21000ly from Sol near the galactic core) and a handful of scattered deep space outposts, the vast majority of the galaxy is unexplored emptiness. Travelling to the far edge of the galaxy is basically one of the game's go-climb-Everest activities. There's no inherent point to it, except if it's something you want to do. I'm personally on my way back from such a journey.
  
  That said, travelling can be a bit of a time drain within the Bubble. Certain ships, particularly ones oriented towards combat, have short jump ranges, meaning that travelling across the Bubble can take tens of jumps. Though with engineering (which I mentioned above in the Horizons features) and the right modules, this can be alleviated greatly.
  
  As for grind, much of the grind has been alleviated. Methods of making money are far faster than they used to be, with it being totally achievable to make over a hundred million credits per hour. There are still "grindable" things like the naval ranks, but it's not necessary to do that.
  
  As for game activities, this graphic gives a fair rundown of what there is in this game. The game is basically a really huge sandbox game. There's not much in-game guiding you into most activities, so you really need outside resources, like the official forums, this subreddit and related ones and other sites and communities, like Inara and discords.

You're welcome. I'd have added more but, as you may have noticed, I hit the comment character limit.

By the way, the 360 dongle doesn't cost as much as the steam controller. I have this one, it's $14 atm.

If you do decide on the steam controller, Amazon has it with the carry case for the same price as they have the controller by itself. Here.

Also, adding on about the controller, at this point I've had two other people (who don't play a lot of games) try the controller and they picked it up easily. It seems like the biggest issue people have is unlearning other controllers, rather than learning the new one.

It's also possible that part of it is the fact that trackball emulation is the best way (imo) to control the camera via the controller. One of the two people, the one who picked it up easier, regularly uses a trackball to play games already and was used to the way it responded. In fact, I used a trackball to play games for a long time as well. Maybe that's part of why some people learn to use it easier than others. I'm not sure, I'm rambling anyway. The point is that it takes a bit of effort to unlearn how you play with other controllers.

I'd love to know what you decide though. The steam controller is superior, in my opinion, except for the lack of a physical d-pad. That's just about the only downside and I can make do with that since I don't play a lot of platformers and the radial menus make waaaay better quick selects.

I am new to DCS, a long time flight sim nut and working on my pilot's license. I bought many of the planes (A-10C, F/A-18C, FC3 and the F-5E). I could not decide so it was better to buy them all since they were on sale lol! What I found out was the F-18 and the F-5E are the two I enjoy with the F-5E what I am enjoying most. I feel more like I am having to work more to fly it but in a good way. Fun to startup but not excessive, fun to fly and land. I think I actually like that I do not have all of the toys. The aggressors campaign for the F-5E has been fun to learn on since I also bought the Nevada map. The F/A-18C is a weapons platform, but the real joy is taking off and landing on a carrier.

I bought a cheap HOTAS as I just could not fly with the XBOX controller. It know that it is not the Warthog HOTAS (maybe Christmas 2019 now that there is the F/A-18 add-on stick), but for $70, I cannot stress how much better it is without a deep investment. I got a friend in on the game and he got the A-10C because he wants close quarters bombing and strafing runs and he bought the PS4 version of my stick and loving it.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-One-xbox/dp/B07643TW2V?th=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Flight-playstation-4/dp/B015PJ68BK/

Entirely depends on your budget - but at the very least something with Force Feedback, like the Logitech g29 with shifter - that's a very common setup. $200-450 is the figure you'd be looking at - depending on if what you want is on sale. A bit cheaper if you don't want a shifter and want to use the paddle shifters behind the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G29-Driving-Shifter-Bundle/dp/B016JBE8LU $299

I chose one a little higher priced, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT edition (3 pedal setup not the cheaper 2 pedal one without the clutch) as well as the TH8A shifter. I got the wheel on sale, full price on shifter. https://i.imgur.com/Y8Gg5oO.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL?th=1 $388 + https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ $149


These wheels are much more than toys. You can feel the wheels on the road, traction loss, how much torque the cars have, if you slam into a wall the wheels can damn near rip your hands off (you can change the % of feedback to lower it). It makes the experience in VR feel super real. I'd say a wheel carries as much importance in VR racing as the headset does.

The craziest feeling I've gotten so far as just sitting at the start of a race idling in a '66 Mustang. The entire hood of this car is shaking back and forth like Dom's muscle cars in Fast and the Furious.....and the WHEEL is shaking left and right with the car exactly how you would expect something with that much power to. That thing was like 100% torque and it felt amazing.

Even if it takes some saving, I highly recommend one of them - although I would definitely wait until Black Friday to get $100 ish off of either one you choose. The sale prices for these are quite tolerable when they occur.

A stand for the wheel is much nicer than a table for mounting, but they can be pricey as well. From $100 and up. My Apiga AP2 stand was $280 but worth every penny to not have a bar in between your legs. Only $240 now and supports most wheels. https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-gearshift-ALL/dp/B00XBPYUIY

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ85NF3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IG4zCbGAH8VK5

This is the best one. The companion app that it uses allows remapping the controls to touchscreen inputs. A bit pricey but hands down the best controller.

Has some cons, using cases with it is a snug fit. I use the spigen case and it just barely fits. Set up is also a bit tedious but after you have it set up, you do not have to do it again.

Pros are good though, Can even turn off your phone and it will still keep the settings. Unlike that octopus app. Also you have to set the game up in the app for the first time. After initial setup you can just launch the game directly from the game app and not the controller app. Also works with Google play supported games. Although fortnite might not be supported but i haven't tried it so i cannot confirm.

Want to take it a step further? Use this usbc to hdmi cable to mirror your phone to a tv, monitor or projector. It also has a usb c power input that supports fast charging.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746NR9YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MM4zCbG5HB768

And in case you are wondering i use a RP1

Some "higher end" links for you:

• Ch Throttle -- IMO still the best throttle until VKB/Virpil
  
• MFG Crosswind
  
• VKB
  
• Virpil - great dual stick options here. I liked VKB just a tad more, like the additional button more on VKB. But Virpil has other things going for it too. Like better service!
  
• X56 Lotitech - make sure its the latest version, not saitek crap ... even re-branded saitek to logitech. Logitech recently released an update. QA is a huge issue with X56 range.
  
  Don't use this for E:D Warthog that is my 2c worth. Its maybe looks all metal but has some plastic internals and really is not for space flight sims. Allot of people bitch about the nipple on the throttle. So just my opinion that you should not look at it.
  
  On the lower end:
  
  
• Thrustmaster T 16000 etc. I have no experience with it. But people like it.
  
• X360 controllers etc. some people love it.
  
• Mouse and Keybaord -- PvP players swear by it!
  
  Happy stick hunting, fly safe CMDR o7!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

The Flydigi Wee 2 makes mention of that fact that it supports phones up to 6.3 inches in length. Given that the Note 9 is 6.37 inches, it sounds like it may work. I don't own a Note 9 (nor the Wee 2) so I can't test it, but it may be worth looking into.

For what it's worth, I do own the Flydigi Wee (the original one) and I love that thing. It's the best Android controller I've ever bought, hands down. I've had probably 6 or 7 different ones throughout my lifetime and the Wee was the last one I bought because it does everything I want it to.

Okay, wow. First of all, Wheelstand Pro products seem like a good value, until you realize that you have to buy the right wheel stand for what you plan to eventually do, and need to make sure you buy the right add on pieces for that stand. After checking their website, for the wheel and the pedals I want, in the configuration that I plan to use them, I'd have to spend over $300 USD for this, and it wouldn't be able to fold up completely because of the pedal design. Then, I'd still need another stand for my Joy and HOTAS.

I'm thinking I'll get the [Next Level Flight Stand] (https://www.amazon.com/Level-Racing-Wheel-Flight-playstation-2/dp/B073WVDKSP/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511939568&sr=8-2&keywords=Next+level+flight+stand), since I can mount a Racing Wheel and Pedals to it, and I'm not likely to get flight pedals or a Racing Shifter any time soon. That way I'll have a complete setup ready to go for just @$300 USD on Amazon. It will also fold up more since it's a dual-spar design.

Anyone have some thoughts about this, or a better option?

The 3 pedal is the best part of these wheels, and a lot of people continue to use them even after upgrading to Fanatec/TT. The Logitech shifter is sold separately now, and imo it's not worth the $60 they charge for it--save up for better quality. G25/27 wheels used to be a great value because they included 3 pedals + shifter for around $250-300 in an era when higher tier belt drive Thrustmaster wheels were around $500 just for the wheel and pedals.


A good shifter is going to cost you 100-150, so will a good set of pedals. But you should own a basic wheel like the TT TX for a few months to decide if you use it enough to warrant investing in higher end pedals/shifter. A lot of people buy these things and they just end up sitting in a closet being used a few times a year (if that).

Honestly, it's impossible to say which mouse would be best for you without having you try it out first. It's a very subjective, individual thing. I'd recommend going to a Best Buy or somesuch place where they have mice out that you can actually feel. If they don't have the ones you're looking for, you can always go to a MicroCenter, buy all the mice you're considering, take the home to test them, then return all but the one you liked. Not sure if that works in other stores since everyone has a different return policy.

EDIT: In case you're curious I use a Microsoft Sidewinder mouse. I agree that it looks bizarre, but I really like the feel of it. There's a bit more bulk to grab onto than most other mice (which is nice if you have big hands), and the weight is adjustable so it's not necessarily heavy.

Yarr, they are;

Saitek X56 pro.
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Saitek-Flight-Rhino-HOTAS/dp/B01LX398IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476827581&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+g+saitek+x-56+rhino

Basically the thumb analogues were thought to be just... A ridiculously silly gimmick. Until we got our hands on them. They are pointless for flight sim guys, but space sim, holy crap they are just... The world of difference. You can bind the thumb on the right stick to throttle and you literally have dual joystick, the left you have another one. They can be to X, Y, etc anything you want really! Its really neat and they are just... Mind blowingly awesome.

They're pretty awesome... Fine control sticks if you want etc. The problem with HOTAS' is that the throttle is too slow for rapid reaction in space sims, but the throttle is really awesome for slow landings etc still.

I'm using the Oculus rift and their touch controllers. About 6 months or so before the Rift S was announced they dropped the price to 349 and I picked it up at that. Came with headset, 2 cameras, and the oculus touch controllers. The rift works great though I'd love to try the new one without the cameras and see how that works, because reaching all over the cockpit can sometimes move outside of the camera range if not setup correctly.

​

The touch controllers are key. It really helps you interact, get a little tactile feeling (rumble-ish) and grab on to things fitting your hands better in the cockpit unlike the vive controllers which always, in my opinion, felt like controlling stuff with a tv remote control.

​

Lastly I did pick up rudder pedals as well and that made a world of difference. ( https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-PRO-Flight-Rudder-Pedals/dp/B01LYPMTPT/ ) Rocking the Logitech G Pedals. Makes controlling the plane so much better.

Is it this one?

If so id actually be very interested in investing in one. The price isnt bad and if its a great as people make it out to be, could definitely be worth it.

I think i'd like to add a keyboard converter to my setup as well. Wouldnt be bad to have the stick, throttle and a keyboard just like the in-game ships do.

For me, I have no interest in playing retro games unless I have the retro controller. A newer USB-counterpart such as this off-brand SNES controller suffices. But for me, the old games are just as much about the old controllers.

Then you've got dedicated emulator systems such as this SNES/NES/Genesis combo which is really neat. And there's another one by a more popular brand that I can't think of right off hand that emulates like 5 systems. With slots for each system's cartridge as well as controllers.

Awesome man, I got the t300 rs recently as well. Loving it so far, amazing piece of equipment :)

The stand I went with is the Apiga. I really like it because it doesn't have a bar in between your legs (like wheelstandpro does) and it folds up really easily for storage.

(https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-Stand-gearshift/dp/B00XBPYUIY/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00XBPYUIY&pd_rd_r=YCRQ4VWJGC5RX4CKA8TT&pd_rd_w=BhsLe&pd_rd_wg=mzkSC&psc=1&refRID=YCRQ4VWJGC5RX4CKA8TT)

Let me know if you have any other questions!

You can get a brand new Saitek yoke with throttles for less than $200 on Amazon. Goes under the name of Logitech G nowadays since Logitech bought Saitek a while back. So it's definitely not worth $350 used, not even with rudders, which you can get brand new for like $150. You're paying new price for something that's used. If you're buying used, don't spend more than $200 for a complete set.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-PRO-Flight-Rudder-Pedals/dp/B01LYPMTPT/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524675041&sr=8-1&keywords=Logitech+G+Pro+Flight

Other than that, it's a decent yoke. It's not amazing, but it gets the job done.

And also look for CH rudder pedals. They are a little narrow, but they are pretty good. You can get them new for like $100-120, and used for like $50.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CH-Products-Pro-Pedals-USB-Flight-Simulator-Pedals/292534413435?hash=item441c68e87b:g:djEAAOSw9uNa3Sa3

They also have yokes, but most people seem to prefer Saitek's yoke over CH.

First off, thank you all for the responses. Super helpful, and reassuring :-).

Planning on getting the below linked yoke and peddles.

Is there any point in getting the radio (or something similar) to increase my actual flying skills?

Thanks Again!

Yoke

Peddles

Radio

I've been playing a lot more Android games now that I've upgraded to a Pixel 2 XL. I love this phone. I have very big hands (I'm 6'7"... generally most things are too small for me) and even when I customise the button layout for, say, My Boy! or My Old Boy! I still find my hands getting cramped after a while.

I have been looking at controllers that allow phones to clip on, and there's quite a few on Amazon Canada that look good. I am leaning towards the GameSir G3s with included bracket, GameSir T1s (slightly more expensive for some reason?) or the "Mad Giga". I also was considering the Bonusis STK7003 though it's more expensive and looks like it might be flimsier. Those are all generally within my budget -- $30-45ish.

When I used my Vita a lot, I had to buy a handgrip attachment for it, and even then I would still get hand cramps. It's very difficult to tell from the pictures which of these is the largest. As reference, I really like the size of the Steam Controller, which I've used a lot, and PS3 controllers are good for decent lengths of time as well (though I do eventually cramp up with those as well).

In any case, any recommendations or information about which of these controller types are good for large hands would be greatly appreciated! I could potentially just buy a controller-grip shaped case, but I think I'd prefer to actually have a full size controller.

I high suggest you look at either this fight pad by HORI or this MadCatz one not many people think about getting a pad but its a say cheaper alternative than buying a stick and a WAAAAYY better DPAD than yourre used to i bought the Mad Catz one and it was the best decision i have made. espcially if youre looking for something wto help with your inputs these definetly do the trick as an aleternative to the controller and as a form of a "good cheap" fight stick. i know you said you were looking for a stick but these a great other options that most people arent aware of . and if you are aware of them and you say frick that get this fight stick.

The Daqi M1 is a better value, but I would not say it's a better controller. I just picked up a M1 to compare to my Wee 2. The build quality is fine. The d-pad on the Wee 2 is better than the M1, the pivot is a little bit more noticeable which helps with responsiveness. The Wee 2 is $50 shipped from Amazon so it's not $100+.

If you want something closer to an Xbox/PS3, the only choice you have is to get one of those traditional controllers with a phone clip. It's a bit top heavy and it might interfere with your volume/power buttons.

Flydigi does sell an accessory to solve the USB-C port being covered. They don't have a solution for headphone jack however. It'll probably work with the Daqi M1 too.

Gamevice does sell a controller that provides a headphone jack and power pass-through. It even has vents to redirect side-firing speakers to face you. However, it's a bit bulky and it hasn't been tested to work on a Poco F1.

On Amazon I bought some knockoff SNES controllers worth USB ports for $10 each. Pretty good deal, because all of the face buttons are caved in (which I love), it feels (mostly) like the original, and it has the Super Famicom colors (red, blue, green, yellow). Worth every penny in my opinion, only complaint is that the buttons are coded really weird and have to be rebinded on any game you use it on. If you want one, you can buy one here - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FFL7WRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1426899016&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=snes+controller+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41zb-utQF2L&ref=plSrch

Type|Item|

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | MSI Z97M-G43 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | @ Amazon UK
Memory | Kingston Fury White Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | @ Amazon UK
Storage | Crucial MX100 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | @ Amazon UK
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 970 4GB STRIX Video Card | @ Dabs IE
Case | Corsair 350D MicroATX Mid Tower Case | @ Dabs IE
Power Supply | Corsair Builder 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | @ Amazon UK
Optical Drive | Lite-On iHAS124-14 DVD/CD Writer | @ Amazon UK
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | @ Amazon UK
Monitor | ViewSonic VA2246M-LED 60Hz 22.0" Monitor | @ Amazon UK
Monitor | ViewSonic VA2246M-LED 60Hz 22.0" Monitor | @ Amazon UK
Monitor | ViewSonic VA2246M-LED 60Hz 22.0" Monitor | @ Amazon UK
Keyboard | SteelSeries Apex [RAW] Wired Gaming Keyboard | @ Amazon UK
Mouse | Logitech Performance Wireless Laser Mouse | @ Amazon UK
Webcam| [Microsoft LifeCam HD-3000] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-LifeCam-HD-3000-Retail-Packaging/dp/B0099XD1PU/ref=lp_430595031_1_5?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1420741419&sr=1-5)| @ Amazon UK
Speakers| [Logitech Z200 Speaker - Midnight Black] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Z200-Speaker-Midnight-Black/dp/B00FSF2OSS/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1420742154&sr=1-1&keywords=z200) | @ Amazon UK
GamePad| [Official Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows - Black (PC)] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Official-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Windows/dp/B004JU0JSA/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1420742278&sr=1-1&keywords=official+xbox+360+wireless+controller+pc)| @ Amazon UK
WiFi| [TP-Link TL-WPA4220KIT AV500 Powerline 300M] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WPA4220KIT-Powerline-Configuration-Smartphone/dp/B00DHB2T44/ref=sr_1_cc_6?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1420742347&sr=1-6-catcorr&keywords=tp+link) | @ Amazon UK
Desk| Custom IKEA Vika Alex| @ IKEA IE
| | Total | 1566.63

Total comes to about 2000 EUR

More accurate pricing at [PCPartPicker] (http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/user/skit7/saved/mbsj4D)

Awesome, really appreciate the info. The Honeycomb looks really nice, had never heard of it until just now. They claim to be releasing it "in the 1st quarter of 2018". I haven't ordered yet, but I'm a bit impatient, so I'll probably go ahead and get the CH/Saitek stuff for now, and possibly get the Honeycomb later. Here's what my build looks like, as of now:

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Products-Eclipse-Yoke-Programmable/dp/B001GIOGBY

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-PRO-Flight-Rudder-Pedals/dp/B01LYPMTPT

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Saitek-Flight-Throttle-Qudrant/dp/B01M00UHE3

Thanks again for all of the information, very helpful

I'd hate to say it, but this is why I love my Steam Controller. The touch pad on the right made aiming really nice (Still not as good as a mouse though) However, I think people are seeing what you're saying as touch controls > real controls.

If I could have an analog stick for moving, but a touch pad/screen for aiming, I would be happy.

I'm using this since it is a bit of both.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0769NK92M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ummm what system is it you are playing on because any stick you can get that worked with all 3 is most likely going to be very expensive.

Edit: I see you said about your XBO pad not being responsive so I am going to assume you are playing on that. If you are playing on XBO then you should get a stick that works with that and then it will work also on PC.

I don't think with the lack of fighting games that the XBO has a great choice of sticks but this would maybe be a good buy https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_63_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B0XQTT2R8RGPQ2H77E7E

Personally though I have big hands and find that the stick and buttons are slightly too close on the Hori stick so if you're the same and want something with weight to it I'd go for this https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Atrox-Arcade-Gaming-Controller-Designed/dp/B00LYYNZ30?th=1

Both are quite pricy but if you are really committed to playing fighting games on stick it'll save you money overall because a really budget stick you will quickly outgrow or wear out... or put your fist through.

I have a black widow, might be better value in the EU, either way its a great stick and makes elite feel great http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001ZN4WU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415232051&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

Thank you so much, this is awesome. I've got an HDMI cable that can run from my computer to TV, so emulation is sounding better and better.

Ok, being that I've never done this before, can you link me/recommend how/where to download an emulator? How do you get the games on it? What do you think of this controller? Think there would be a way to hook up two controllers (i.e. Mario Kart, TMNT, & F-Zero)? Thank you!

I have a Logitech G29, the clamps work really well for a table. The only thing you have to make sure is that the table is sturdy enough, if it's too light, it will move a lot, and the vibrations are going to be a PIA. Also: if you don't have carpet, your pedals are going to move a lot.

I used to have it on an old table that was really fragile so I bought this stand and it works great, the best thing is that it folds, so, once you are done racing, you just fold it and put it away.

EDIT: I didn't read the word "foldable" in your comment so I just gave you a redundant opinion. Sorry.

Not bad. I think I saw it at £200 the other week for all 3.

I’ve heard that the G920 has some reliability issues and that the TMX is probably better to go with if you get the Pro set with the T3PA pedals.

If you’re not too bothered about the shifter straight away I’d get the TMX. I have it and the wheel is great for the price bracket, just steer clear of the 2 pedal set if you have the budget to go a step further. Some links below so you can have a look;

ThrustMaster TMX PRO Steering Wheel + Pedalboard https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5ALXJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6RUpDb20TDV5F

ThrustMaster T3Pa Pro Pedal set - 4060065 (Gaming > Game Controllers) +}b https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HSUpDbP6YVZ0D

Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (PS4, Xbox One, PS3, PC - Windows 8, 7, Vista & XP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTUpDbTEV2EHJ

The playseat challenge looks awesome, is it able to support a flight throttle and stick such as a Saitek set?

I just purchased the Next Level Flight stand for $200 off eBay because it is collapsible and supports racing and flight controls. Will be delivered next week. It doesnt come with a seat though like the playseat challenge.

Next Level Racing Wheel and Flight Stand
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WVDKSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YkzbAbAHTH2R2

Nice review, I just did similar sort of research for myself when upgrading from a SpeedLink Black-widow (which you may want to mention on your list) to an X52 Pro. What struck me is how few HOTAS options there are on the market, and to an extent flight sticks in general. The last time I was aware of the pleasure-stick market was 5 years ago, when I bought my SpeedLink. I expected to find a ton of options when searching for an upgrade, but apart from a few new ones you still are basically limited to the same small selection that was available 5 years ago. And no good force-feedback sticks! I'd love to get my hands on a modern day Sidewinder.

Also, I've been using my SpeedLink with Arma 2 and 3 for the last few years, and it does work surprisingly well. The flight models are slightly arcadey, but using a hotas with it will still give you an edge over a basic flight-stick. It seems a lot of people still prefer using keyboard and mouse for Arma flight though, which personally baffles me but it probably attests to the weak flight physics. I'd like to see them run Prepar3d with a K&M.

There are definally USB NES controllers Link

I would recommend though buying an adapter so you can use official NES controllers instead of the lesser quality aftermarket controllers. Link

Please note that I have never used any of the two products I listed. I just used them as an example. I do recommend to shop around to see what would best fit what you want this rig to be.

I have a Microsoft Sidewinder

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-ARB-00001-SideWinder-X5-Mouse/dp/B001DWK4NC

(Mine's a bit older than that one though)

Has 3, preset instant DPI changes 400, 800, and Max (Linked 2000, mine is 1000)

And two great side buttons that are programmable, (One nice one is the instant 180, you hold down the button in game, do a 360, and release. Then whenever you press it, you do an instant 180 degree spin)

Also came with different pads (Teflon, Plastic, Rubber?) as well as weights you can insert to make it heavier.

Had it for 5 years now, still works awesome, no sign of wear and tear.

There are controllers out now that turn your phone onto a Switch-like handheld.

https://www.amazon.com/Flydigi-Bluetooth-Controller-Telescopic-Connecting/dp/B07DJ85NF3

The cool thing is you can also use it to play emulators if your phone is capable.

They are pretty inexpensive as well.

GameSir T1S. Only had it a week, but it's a well-built controller that works on multi-platform, similar in size and function to a PS3 controller, and the built-in clip holds the 3T nice and firmly. Haven't tested any emulators but it works perfectly with GTA:SA.

In case you ever wanna switch to the dark side, I've posted a breakdown of the current hotas situation on the vive subreddit before, lemme see if I can find it.

Found it.

The cheap end would be the T-Flight Hotas X ($50).

On the cheaper mid range side, either the Saitek x52 ($140), or the Saitek x52 Pro ($180)

On the more pricey side of the mid range I can suggest the Saitek x55/x56 ($250)

Top of the Line would be the Thrustmaster Warthog ($400)

Since then thrustmaster also released the T.16000M ($130) which as far as I know was made in communication with Frontier so it should be a pretty good fit for Elite.

That looks like a Logitech G920. In which case ~$250 depending if you have the shifter included. I'm currently looking into wheels -- this and the Thrustmaster TMX Pro seem like the best "budget" wheels. I'm leaning more towards the TMX Pro though, fyi.

I've got the RAP4 Kai and have absolutely fallen in love with it. This is everything I wanted in a stick after coming from a modded venom:

https://www.amazon.ca/HORI-Real-Arcade-Pro-PlayStation/dp/B00SULMRI4/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1468836167&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=venom+fightstick

It's 180 CDN apparently. The RAP V Kai is a tenner more. Difference is in the placement of the stick vs the buttons and nothing more afaik.

https://www.amazon.ca/Arcade-Style-Fighting-Officially-Licensed-Microsoft/dp/B0136JP894/ref=sr_1_11?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1468836259&sr=1-11

EDIT: I use this on PC. If you get the PS4/3 RAP 4 you just have to install x360ce in the SFV folder. It'll detect the thing without issue and you can use it from there. No hassle really. I modded mine with sanwa buttons because I got used to them and the stick but I quite like the Kuro buttons and Hayabusa lever that come with it. The stick is actually surprisingly responsive ... might actually put it back in now that I think about it. Only reason to take the Kuro buttons out is that they're loud and I've gotten used to silent ones. If you're using non-silenced buttons atm they'll be the exact same.

At that price, if buying new, take a look at the Thrustmaster TMX pro, which has three pedals, but no shifter. If you discover you like your setup you can always add the shifter later. Just be sure to get something with decently reviewed force feedback. That'll make or break your experience.

I really recommend checking craigslist too.

You asked about separate shifter... For lap times paddles are the way to go. Just like in real life a stick shifted car is more involving, while the dual clutch equivalent will be faster. Personal preference really.

There are all sorts of posts about wheels/rigs, shifters, and more over at /r/simracing

If it's about the controller, I'm sure there are adapters to USB for pretty much anything. SNES, NES, Playstation. Of course these are of varying quality since I just pulled the first thing I found, but it's not too hard to adapt the most nostalgic part of the hardware to work with modern equipment.

And with something like the NES/SNES classic, the rest of it is exactly like an emulator. No cartridges or anything, just a ROM library that you choose from. The UI for game selection is going to be marginally better than an emulator would be, but that's about it.

The F15 is DLC but the free version has a Su-25T and non-armed Mustang. The thing is you miss out with a controller, joysticks are already perfect for a VR input, I use this really cheap one and it does the job []-)

Seems like its been pulled from preorder on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Saitek-Flight-Controller-SCB432210002-01/dp/B01CZTSS3O?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Dont know why, but if they pulled it from preorder. Its 1 of two options, either they cant meet the amounts of preorders. Or (Lets just hope its this one) They pulled the product for quality reasons. If they make a MK.2 mod of the x-56 with better quality then im probably back on the hype train. But until that happens im not buying a Saitek product with this poor quality.

I really like the Sidewinder X5 Mouse. It's a little bigger than most, but I have big hands, so it works for me. I LOVE the placement of the buttons by your thumb. I use them for everyday browsing in addition to gaming.

I have an 8bitdo zero which is comfortable to use, has a control scheme which is perfectly suited for SNES, N64, GBC, GBA, NDS, PSX, and MAME games (along with a few PSP games as well), but most importantly it's portable. I mean really portable, it fits on my key-chain. When it comes down to it the reason that I emulate games on my phone instead of my computer is that I always have it on me, and having a controller that I never have to think about bringing with me is a definite plus.

Just buy the t3pa pedals. Which are the t500 pedals but seperate and use those with your T300. If you still have the T300 and broken t500. You can use the pedals of the t500 with the T300 too.

Alternatively you can look at much higher end pedals, but I don't see why you should since you liked the t500's pedals. I recommend you do some more research next time or come here and say you don't like the pedals and ask for a solution :) Since now you blew a load of money which wasn't necessary :/

Tldr : Buy the [T3pa Pro]
(http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UVN21IU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458981312&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=T3pa+pro&dpPl=1&dpID=51urgAtTIbL&ref=plSrch) pedals.

T16000M FCS
and TFRP
both by Thrustmaster are a good combo and will only run you for about 200.
This guy did a pretty decent review on it.
Or you could do the TFRP pedals with the x-56 AND a trackIR included in the combo on amazon if you don't have one and it will run you just under 500.

The warthog stick and throttle and the TFRP pedals will put you right at 500 via amazon if you don't need trackir so there's that.

I need to get a life.

Plays better? You can get a controller small enough to carry around: https://www.amazon.com/8BITDO-Wireless-Controller-Android-Windows/dp/B0156IC8M8

But more seriously these guy have a SNES sized controller that is still pretty small and can fit in my pockets: https://www.amazon.com/8Bitdo-SN30-Controller-Windows-macOS-Android/dp/B0748S1VDC/

Yeah, if we were living in 2005-2014 without a proper smartphone that can emulate the PSP itself at full speed.

These days you can slap a GameVice on a Galaxy S7, S8, Note8, S9, Pixel 2/3 or a Flydigi Wee 2 on anything else and get yourself a proper portable emulation powerhouse.

EDIT:

Here's a small gallery of potato quality images for a comparison using the Flydigi Wee 2: https://imgur.com/a/TDBxr3A

It's interesting how only the PSP games have muted colors on the PSP. But everything else looks quite nice.

Apiga AP2. It's unfortunately out of stock (I picked up the last one :D). They might restock soon, but I don't know. However, GT Omega Racing and DX Racer have pretty good stands too. They also have full cockpits.

For a few dollars more I'd go with something like this 8Bitdo Zero. I haven't tried it myself, but I do have the 8Bitdo NES30 Pro and it works great with all the Gear VR/Android/Windows games I've tried it with, and can be started in different modes (XBox 360 controller, Bluetooth Gamepad, etc).

Not OP, but here's a comment I posted a few days ago in another subreddit on setting up a Raspberry Pie as a console to hook up to a TV and play the games. Not all the parts I list below are needed(such as the USB Controller) if you're building it into an arcade cabinet

---


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6EQNNK?psc=1 - Raspberry Pi 3, this kit comes with almost everything you'll need. The computer, power supply, and a case.

Also required is a Micro SD card, an HDMI cable to hook it up to your TV, and a USB controller - this is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/Gtron-Retro-USB-Super-Classic-Controller/dp/B00FFL7WRS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478912652&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+snes

For initial setup you'll need a USB keyboard and mouse, and a MicroSD reader for your computer for use installing the software onto the MicroSD card for the Pi.

Here's a guide on the software that is the popular one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvYX_7iRRI0 Also you'll need to get ROMS for the games, but that's not something I can link to here since it's copywrited meterial.

All in all, if you just need the Pi kit, the SD card, and the controller, you're spending about 75 bucks.

I completely understand the difficulty. There is lots to consider and it sounds like you've done a lot of terrific research and want to avoid cogging.

For the price, you really cannot go wrong with the T300RS because the next step up is considerably more expensive.

However, the pedals that come with the T300RS are hot garbage so be gentle with them and perhaps consider replacing them later.

With those pedals though, it's worth mentioning that in total, it will put you into T500RS territory(comes with the good pedals by default) so you may want to keep that in mind.

Thrustmaster's standalone pedals would be cheaper or very close to the same price as an ebay G27 pedal set and the Bodnar adapter.

It's a much better product as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVN21IU/

The G29 shifter and Bodnar adapter may be the cheapest shifter option on the market, but the quality definitely reflects that compared to the SHH shifter, TH8A, or Fanatec.

It works and is relatively sturdy though (my G27 shifter is at least) so it isn't a terrible option.

They're not terrible. They've gotten a lot better in recent years.

But you can also get something like this to be a lot more comfortable gaming on mobile. When my PC was out of commission for a few weeks I relied on that.

As someone who has played on both Controller and K/M and mostly plays games on K/M, I have to say that for BotW a controller feels nicer to me.

If anyone was wondering I personally use a wireless Xbox 360 Controller and Receiver.

I would probably suggest an Xbox One controller though, considering the battery life on 360 Controllers is eight hours on 2800mAh rechargables. This means I have to cycle using four rechargeables, two on charge two in controller to avoid the expense of disposables.


That said, if it's cheaper for you to buy a 360 controller, receiver and rechargables, or you don't mind wired, do that instead, there's very little advantage otherwise.

I'd say your best bet is to get a bluetooth controller...

For Android: https://www.amazon.com/GameSir-T1s-Controller-Wireless-Smartphone/dp/B06XBXHG41/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3MU4X9MAYQD6T&keywords=gamesir+ts1&qid=1568506737&sprefix=games+ts1%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRFpUT05INlJPVzVPJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTUwMzg3M0REM1UwOVhESU9ZTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjYzMzY4REZKWVpJWUQwSUczJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

For iOS, 2 options: Wait till iOS 13 releases to connect Xbox 1 or PS4 controller to iOS!!! Or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SteelSeries-Nimbus-Wireless-Gaming-Controller-Mac-Apple-TV-iPhone-iPad-iPod/333318338471?epid=18029957686&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4d9b5237a7:g:lFcAAOSwYPFdcBGH&enc=AQAEAAAB4BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qU0oBkHmPHHmJb3U3pKbEqbbv9KsEDrRnAJuo0krAZnoBJtl5LQJItZrLP4ePz5AQ7iLHcVMJYw54YpNRe64J0Fe0hw9meAQgjBosMwGaZAP4%2FrRmjp40Cc2Xm4XP6eHYl9gx4yD3GmtaHuBiB4KHWIKxYPJIcOx88hxbGNJL0dBFg4HtxXq8mZ1fuTXNvP2%2BQcYwBa%2FHhh1njt0DaH%2FhqjpiDgE7ggsQA0osvnZ2FFz7uwJJMkFUqOc5v8jrFLaaBEjqy8MkBcUk%2FsTMDV5ICGuhEa6lRAlF0h0AC%2BIspSYBs9dVyPRx2wEHJcxRGHtPTDBBT8m0pG7OCLjP47vJSijoRLMXdTjuiZT%2FP1vc3Z5ZiE8BlWToB%2BSjQdy%2BAX0KMXChyGH1qLqmX90Qf0wamAR7xALNiDgtIo6DWaQQ1qKnzBYIDb4M8LPIu0pU5SVsggEM6ggCq1qFSr8%2B3crqGVM2AMQ%2Fp3Bc5WNBzmgUjLHTCgXEErTq5Wzx6muYaOKYbBILCuf42IvEwJqraJ5PZ4BUippmUnOWRZ1ryoPPfdxyo2uWZCFD2a7lClxfHkofL0RhePF5zphdN51L9TQY6GyNqI4DIjlt%2FVKozh8fdqbA%3D%3D&checksum=33331833847119cb1a6265c8410f8dc922ced291ebd9

I am in the same boat as you

Have been looking at reviews from amazon.

Except the X56 has 3 stars. (I'd be more comfortable with 4.)

X52 G pro has 3.5 stars and the X52 has 4 stars.

I currently use the 50$ thrust master. Which works to see if you're into the game.

Anyways if you can please post again after you get it?

https://www.amazon.com/Saitek-Flight-Controller-SCB432210002-01/dp/B01CZTSS3O/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519950077&sr=1-16&keywords=Saitek

I sit on my couch to play. I have a monitor on a stand in front of me on the floor which suits me fine. I use a Speedlink black widow http://www.amazon.co.uk/Speedlink-SL-6640-SBK-Black-Widow-Flightstick/dp/B0001ZN4WU
The black widow is very cheap but I have had it for a few years now and have found it to be a great budget HOTAS.

I also have my keyboard on the arm of the sofa to my left and in between this I use my old ASUS TF101 tablet running Roccat power grid as my control panel. Using this I can adjust all my power settings and lower landing gear/cargo scoop etc.

The keyboard is only ever used for chat or tabbing out to windows.

I will try and post a pic later but I'm at work right now and cant.

Edit: pic http://imgur.com/DhpT6yt

Looks like the other Thrustmaster bits are also discounted.

T3PA-Pro ($115): https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-xbox-one/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=WP5WNF466F3F66YK2Q9Y&th=1

TX Servo Base ($192): https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-Wheel-Servo-Base-Xbox/dp/B014US043A/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=WP5WNF466F3F66YK2Q9Y&th=1

HERE WE GO!

looks like the sale is still going on Amazon. Plus you can get a free carrying case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ5NK5Y/ref=twister_B01MG8P418?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use and it works great... not too expensive (it works for PC and XBox).
Thrustmaster T-Flight Hotas One https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07643TW2V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NJErDbPZCZEVX

Whatever setup you get, I would strongly suggest to get full HOTAS (both joystick and throttle)... it’s perfect for ED.

Just a side note.. you can also get them from amazon.. and if you have amazon prime you get free 2 day shipping on it..

Link

If you buy it on amazon you also get the case for free.. (going though steam the bundle cost about 80 cents more)

I actually bought the bundle off amazon yesterday.. the case showed up today and the controller will be here tomorrow

That doesn't sound right... here's the official Xbox 360 one for around 50$

But anyway yeah the Xbox One one + Windows adapter also works if you have Win 10 (and slightly cheaper)

A better idea is to get a flydigi wee 2 controller and use your phone. I have a tablet but I enjoy using my phone with the wee 2 controller more https://www.amazon.com/Flydigi-Bluetooth-Controller-Telescopic-Connecting/dp/B07DJ85NF3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=flydigi+wee+2&qid=1562876849&s=gateway&sprefix=Flydigi+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

CH Products makes the most durable and reliable stuff based on my own experience and user reviews, but they're kinda ugly and expensive. If you're not down with the price of the CH stuff, the T-Flight by Thrustmaster is a really good value with decent functionality. The only thing that I didn't like about it was the annoying USB cable that ran between the throttle and joy stick when you separate the base. Saitek seems to have quality control issues, so I'd consider that a gamble at $250.

For the 360 controller you need a certain kind :

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Windows/dp/B004JU0JSA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344965681&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-Xbox-Common-Controller-Windows/dp/B004JU0JSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344965767&sr=8-1


For the ps3 controller you need unofficial firmware and to have it emulate a 360 controller, of which there are many guides on the internet.

360 is supported but you need a special type, PS3 is cheaper if you already have one but a little more finicky.

I have two. One I use as an emulation station to play SNES ROM hacks on with RetroPie. I got a cheap SNES USB controller on Amazon and haven't looked back. I do my system maintenance for it through SSH, I've only had to hook up a keyboard to it once for initial setup.

My other one is currently just a spare XFCE4 setup that I used to get some VNC tools working. I haven't decided exactly what I want to use it for, but my wife is pregnant so I might have it run a webcam to be a video baby monitor when that time comes.

What are you interested in? I've seen people make portable gaming devices, beer fermenting temperature tracker/controllers, weather and radio stations, semi-autonomous robots and cars, tablets, "magic mirrors," media streaming devices a la Roku, I even used mine as a workstation for a while while I was sent away for a month of training and lived in a hotel...the list goes on and on.

I respect how you guys interact with the community and even approach others if they have problems. But I'm sorry, I have to disagree that product quality has been sufficiently been patched up now.

It's an average of 3 stars across from multiple review sites.

• Amazon.com, 3 stars, 85 reviews
  
• Amazon.com, 3 stars, 3 reviews(RGB version this time)
  
• Amazon uk, 3.5 stars, 93 reviews
  
• Amazon Germany, 3 stars, 25 reviews
  
• Newegg, 2 stars, 10 reviews
  
• Though Amazon Canada is at 4 stars with 90 reviews
  
  I'm not doing this to prove a point. But I would recommend that Logitech approaches these reviewers to help the situation and help your company's reputation.

Charity links:

• Child's Play
  
• Electronic Frontier Foundation
  
• Able Gamers
  
• Mercy Corps
  
  I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Based on a recommendation I bought a Speedlink Black Widow Flightstick - perfectly functional for casual use and out-of-the-box compatible with Arma 3.

I've been making sure to look at reviews to see if there are OS X drivers. The Sidewinder series does work with OS X, despite being a Microsoft mouse, for example. But thanks for the advice. Do you think wireless works fine?

Xbox One or PC? With reference to the MKX pad, I'm assuming Xbox One. If PC, the Hori Fighting Commander 4 is the one to beat:

HORI Fighting Commander 4 Controller for PlayStation 4/3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKLFES8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QBkzyb4XM5CQ8

As far as Fight Sticks go, it's hard to beat anything Hori for price and the Hayabusa Stick and Kuro buttons are truly great:

HORI Real Arcade Pro.V Kai Fighting Stick for Xbox One, Xbox 360, & Windows PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0136JP894/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JDkzybZXA69JS

If you're a fan of Sanwa Denshi parts instead, I personally bought an old, MadCatz Tournament Xbox 360 fight stick on Craigslist for $60 (may be able to find some for less) and installed the Brooks Universal PCB in it. Most of the installation is insanely easy unless you choose to solder the present USB cable to the board like I did. Since this PCB is Universal, it works on all platforms (save Wii U):

https://www.focusattack.com/brook-universal-fighting-board/

Hope this helps!

I saw this as well, which is basically both combined for less than the original+addon...

This might be what I go with but I'm also seeing all these on ebay for under $100 which is kind of what I had in mind if I were to DIY it... but I'm usually terrified of ebay and I can only find one review of an adorable Aussie kid who loves it... I just can't find any detailed information on mounting capabilities...

> For consoles, added support for a separate custom bindings profile per input device (Gamepad or HOTAS)

> For consoles, added support for switching automatically to the correct bindings profile (Gamepad or HOTAS, standard or custom) depending on the device used to start the game and the profile type that was used with the previous device

This!

With that i can put that hotas back on my list...

Edit: Don't know when it will be back though :

https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-One-Xbone/dp/B07643TW2V/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520039071&sr=8-1&keywords=hotas+one&dpID=41lqzoyaP0L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I got thrusmaster:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014US043A/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TTQKSUS/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UVN21IU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I really like it. I considered logitech in the beginning but then went with thrustmaster because a lot of people said it felt like a toy and there was a deadzone.

all depends on how much you want to spend

step 1 GOOD PC - too much to talk about

step 2 joystick/yoke
extreme 3d pro

T.16000M FCS HOTAS

[Logitech G Saitek PRO Flight Yoke System ](https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?
Item=N82E16826197226)

Step 3 ruder - don't need this right away nice to have

hmm descent price combo

Logitech G PRO Flight Rudder Pedals

for your reference i use this

Warthog

MFG Crosswind

track ir

I got a pair of the retrolink NES pads and one didn't last a year. Switched over to this product and I'm much happier.

Though more often I use this adapter with a SNES pad. It functions flawlessly.

• Wheel base: $220
  
  
  
• Shifter: $180
  
  
  
• Pedals: $150
  
  
  
• Wheel rim: $200
  
  Grand total: $750
  
  
• Fanatec: $1000
  
  It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.

The other option I'm looking at is: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WVDKSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YkzbAbAHTH2R2 so I can more easily mount my hotas joystick along with my wheel and shifter but I really like the idea of the racing seat so I'm just not sure what to do.

Etekcity 6E for life! Never tried out the x1

Only worthy successor to my Microsoft SideWinder X5 i've found so far!

This is the x56 Rhino I was looking at.

The Logitech X56 seems like the safer choice though.

Steam Controller + case for $35 is probably the best deal I've seen.

I use the Gamesir T1s

https://www.amazon.com/GameSir-T1s-Bluetooth-Controller-Smartphone/dp/B06XBXHG41/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525896418&sr=8-2&keywords=gamesir+t1s

Currently emulating over 10 systems through Retroarch and it works perfectly for my uses.

I have two of these SNES USB controllers and they work great.

Xbox already has players either using Elite Controllers (with extra paddles) or flightsticks.

The flightstick is awesome, btw. https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T-Flight-HOTAS-One-Xbox/dp/B07643TW2V

I personally don't see an advantage just 180 more degrees of rotation.

You could get a servo base like this one and a wheel like this or the TMX and not use the pedals it comes with.

I looked into this a while ago because I wanted to use a PowerPad as a midi controller. You can use something like this with a regular NES controller: https://www.amazon.com/RetroBit-Adapter-Controller-Nintendo-Entertainment-System/dp/B004L5KHKS

But it won't work with PowerPad or PowerGlove since they have different output. For those you have to do something like this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Hacking-a-Powerglove/

$606 in total, better sytem than i am running right now. i run with medium-high-1080p settings and get 40 to 60 fps.

$160 GTX 1050 Ti Low Profile 4GB https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=n82e16814125952

$180 refurbished i7-3770 dell https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=1VK-0001-194P9

$64 replace the ram with this ram https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAD8U8EA0882

$100 1080p monitor 23.6" https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-236-174

$30 redragon mechanical keyboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MAK38U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LSh.BbDPTKC4C

$12 redragon mouse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HTK1NCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ATh.BbG9YRN3C

$60 hotas one (pc ready) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07643TW2V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wUh.BbC43AC0G

OR

brand new ryzen 3 build $710. (buy the video card at EVGA midweek madness every wednesday.)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor | $89.99 @ Newegg Business
Motherboard | Gigabyte - B450M DS3H Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $59.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Crucial - Ballistix Sport LT 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $65.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $39.99 @ Monoprice
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4 GB SSC GAMING ACX 3.0 Video Card | Purchased For $130.00
Case | Thermaltake - Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $36.73 @ Newegg Business
Power Supply | EVGA - 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $32.99 @ Monoprice
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $98.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - CO-9050016-RLED 52.19 CFM 120mm Fan | $18.67 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus - VN248H-P 23.8" 1920x1080 Monitor | $89.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Redragon - K552 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $29.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Redragon - Centrophorus M601 Wired Optical Mouse | $11.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $705.31
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-26 18:10 EST-0500 |

The T3PA Pro's are currently only $20 more than the T3PA's on Amazon. Link I have them both and the Pros are substantially better, also upgraded the Pros with Richmotech load cell

Get the tmx pro with the better pedals and conical brake mod. On sale today for over 100.00 off!! https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-TMX-PRO-Racing-Wheel/dp/B01N9K9N33?th=1

It looks a lot like this one. Many of these cheap controllers are rebranded over and over. Some are acceptable quality, some aren't.

https://www.amazon.com/GameSir-T1s-Controller-Wireless-Smartphone/dp/B06XBXHG41/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=gamesir&qid=1562923081&s=gateway&sr=8-5

As far as I know it doesn't have official controller support. You will need to use some sort of a button mapper possibly (which most require root)

I bought myself one of these which works fairly well.

Hmm, anything eh...

Well, after playing quite a bit of Elite Dangerous lately I'm getting more and more tempted of trying to play it with a proper hotas rather than keyboard and mouse. So what I would like is this Saitek Pro Flight X56 Rhino HOTAS costing 250 bucks.

It would also finally give me an opportunity to finally give a go at one of those scary hardcore flightsims.

Can't you get the basic thrustmaster 3 pedal set for close to a $100? and like $150 for the pro set?

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-3-Pedal-Pedal-xbox-one/dp/B00KX75W9O/ref=sr_1_14?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1463366625&sr=1-14&keywords=thrustmaster

http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add--xbox-one/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_8?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1463366612&sr=1-8&keywords=thrustmaster

As a UK-ian, I imagine there to be alternative US links. But here are the UK ones, exact ones I ordered :)

NES: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004L5KHKS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SNES: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002IXZ5DE/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seen this posted on android gaming subreddit. Seems to be best option but most expensive. Guy had a youtube tutorial about it. Actual controller that works even though there is no support right now https://www.amazon.com/Flydigi-Bluetooth-Controller-Telescopic-Connecting/dp/B07DJ85NF3/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3DTN5HG1C8V6O&keywords=flydigi%2Bwee%2B2&qid=1569987040&sprefix=fly%2Bdigi%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

I bought this a month ago. Of course I'm on XB1, you should be able to find a bundle that fits what you want. Regardless, at $679 new plus something like this or this you're hovering around his $900 price point for brand new, never used stuff.

My 2 cents.

Nyko Playpad (https://www.amazon.com/Nyko-Playpad-Pro-Android-Bluetooth/dp/B0092ZEINO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481678353&sr=8-2)

8bitdo Zero (https://www.amazon.com/8BITDO-Wireless-Controller-Android-Windows/dp/B0156IC8M8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481678429&sr=8-2)

Any idea why the D pad wouldn't work in Knights of the Old Republic(Android) with a DualShock 3?

Thank you!

Maybe this, Hori Arcade Pro Kai

albeit, you are still looking at ~2 months handicap vs pad, unless you are already comfortable using a stick.

$249 with free shipping on Amazon. Ships out and will be here just a little bit before NMS.

Also get the controller with case for $44.99
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01MQ5NK5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Basically getting the case for free, vs buing the Link+controller combo.

Thanks for the reply, I presume then that this model comes with a receiver and can be paired with the 360 console too? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Official-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Windows/dp/B004JU0JSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466888024&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+360+controller+pc

Thanks for checking.

I'm using a wireless XBox 360 controller.

You can pair up to 4 controllers with your PC using: https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Authentic-Wireless-Receiver-Windows/dp/B00FAS1WDG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523231153&sr=8-5&keywords=xbox+360+wireless

The controller I bought actually comes with the receiver for the same price as one without: https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Windows-Receiver-Pc/dp/B004JU0JSA/ref=sr_1_4?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1522800043&sr=1-4&keywords=pc+wireless+controller

Anyone know if this one is any good?
http://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458139023&sr=8-4&keywords=Madcatz+Fightstick+Pro

https://www.amazon.com/8BITDO-Wireless-Controller-Android-Windows/dp/B0156IC8M8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497957248&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=8bitdo+zero&psc=1&smid=A263LSCPZJCHO0 i think this is pretty good? i haven't tried it though

http://www.amazon.com/Gtron-Retro-Super-Classic-Controller-Linux/dp/B00FFL7WRS this is the one =)

Alright, so im thinking I get these two things

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Racing-Ferrari-xbox-one-Windows/dp/B014US043A?th=1

http://www.microcenter.com/product/452281/Ferrari_GTW_Wheel_Add-On_458_Challenge_Edition

That wheel is the cheapest one i can find ($66) should be fine right?

ask at /hotas, but i'd rec the cheaper thrustmaster hotas 4 (it has minimal deadzone (upgraded electronics board) compared to hotas x) or the 16000m fcs (has hall sensors) is also a good choice (but I don't like all the buttons on the stick base) :( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kXmbkwVyTQ

The x56 is also worth a look but its pricey. But it does have a thumb hat on the stick for games like star citizen and elite dangerous for 6 DOF. not critcal for arma 3 though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX398IE

of course you could buy a hotas x/4 and upgrade to hall sensors, and add more buttons and and a teensy 3.6 like I'll bet doing, but if you will be keeping the hotas x vanilla, check out joystick curves which may help reduce the deadzone.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CqzoJPCZM0w



Sadly there is not perfect hotas out there, all of them have many pros and cons, you have to watch many youtube reviews and decide what you are willing to live with VS the cost.

Xbox has HOTAS.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07643TW2V/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519157117&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hotas+xbox+one&dpPl=1&dpID=41lqzoyaP0L&ref=plSrch

I play Xbox One exclusively. It does the job. If I ever get a PC that will run ED fully pumped up then I might consider starting over on PC. I would like the bumped up graphics and ability to slightly mod (HUD color and the like) but not enough to jump in on a gaming PC.

Nice! The Steam Sale starts in a few hours.

The Steam Controller + Carrying Case is also $35: https://www.amazon.com/Steam-Controller-Carrying-Case/dp/B01MQ5NK5Y

Has anyone tried using racing pedals for thrust in game? Specifically pedals like the Thrustmaster T3PA Pedals If you have done this, what kind of setup do you need for it to work?

You can already emulate the DS on Android phones.

Drastic. And then a controller like the Ipega PG-9055 or the Flydigi Wee and you're set.

The best I've been able to find is this doc: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71a8WBq01pS.pdf

Which you can find linked on the amazon product page: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Saitek-Flight-Rhino/dp/B01LX398IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491692701&sr=8-1&keywords=x56

Which says:
> Valid warranty claims are generally processed through the point of purchase retailer during the first thirty (30) days after purchase.

Mine shorted out about four months after purchase. I was denied RMA because I was out of the warranty period.

Even better, http://www.amzn.com/B001DWK4NC/

Do you mean the T3PA-PRO pedals? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UVN21IU/

I've heard good things about them with the conical brake mod.

Heard good things about this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9K9N33/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_asa0AbB82WM3J

Kinda pricey-ish for what it is but get yourself one of these and play it on your phone with a similar form factor :P only downside is it covers where you'd normally plug in headphones but bluetooth ones work fine with it

I use this, it's great! Feels just like a DS4; it works with other devices too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XBXHG41/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zero issues at all!

Edit: Not sure why I'm being downvoted...

Yes, that's the PS stick.

https://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Controller-Pro-V-Hayabusa-PS3-PS4/dp/B00S94RODA

This is the Xbox stick.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0136JP894/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467848905&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=pro+v+kai&dpPl=1&dpID=41Cv2bDjcAL&ref=plSrch

The links if ur interested :)

[MSI GS60](MSI GS60 Ghost-242 15.6" SLIM GAMING LAPTOP NOTEBOOK GTX 965M i7-6700HQ 16GB 128GB SSD + 1TB WINDOWS 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AC40PL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3T.jyb0DR6B8D)

It's the same one that i have but $500 less
Got it from a local store :/

[cooling pad](Cooler Master NotePal X3 - Gaming Laptop Cooling Pad with 200mm Blue LED Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0079T2KHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CZ.jyb2BDHDYB)



[Mictchz gaming mouse ](Mictchz 4800 DPI Optical USB Wired Professional Gaming Mouse Programmable 10 Buttons RGB Breathing LED Mice for mac PC (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EY13AXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h0.jybVTZ2XFG)


[Saitek x-56 rhino ](Saitek Pro X-56 Rhino H.O.T.A.S. Video Game Flight Controller for PC (SCB432210002/01/1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZTSS3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a1.jyb8486DM0)


[the x-56 is currently unavailable here's the x-55 ](Saitek Pro Flight X-55 Rhino H.O.T.A.S. (Hands on Throttle and Stick) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHAIY72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K4.jybDDNTB75)

I do believe they're the same except the look

Either controllers lying around or if you want it to be pretty cheap you can buy something like this and map the keys to it.

I'm not crazy into flight sims or anything, but I picked up a HOTAS One for Elite Dangerous and feel it's great for my needs. I don't love how short the cord is connecting the throttle and stick, but everything else has been great.

For that price, you could do far worse.

A nice alternative.

Can't use it with the fan, but still gets the job done.

Razer Atrox(https://www.razerzone.com/gaming-controllers/razer-atrox-xbox-one) $200
Very simple to customize btw

Or

Hori RAP V. Kai(https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894) $150

A simple way to make these work on PS4 is using a X1 to PS4 converters.

Like the Brook converters for (https://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-PS4-Converter-Gaming-Adapter-Keychain/dp/B01GDVGQ48) $43.90

Pro Tip: Get a Octagonal Restrictor Plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004AU0H4U/ref=pd_aw_fbt_63_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3TFQJ8N725SNJZ5THP1J) $6.54

GameSir F1 Mobile PUBG Joystick Controller Grip Case for Smartphones, Mobile Phone Gaming Grip with Joystick, Controller Holder Stand Joypad with Ergonomic Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769NK92M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aG8TBbMC5ZFDT

GameSir F1 Mobile PUBG Joystick Controller Grip Case for SmartPhones, Mobile Phone Gaming Grip with Joystick, Controller Holder Stand Joypad with Ergonomic Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769NK92M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mjl.AbJJ012C4

Crazy Budget? Hori VLX 360 and change the joystick lever to a Seimitsu LS-56-01. Hopefully you won't need to spend $500 for one.

Other than that, for $150 and tax, I would probably get the Hori arcade pro V since it works on Xbox 360, Xbone and PC.

https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527285168&sr=8-1&keywords=xbox+one+arcade+stick+hori&dpID=41UccS10JTL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If your goal is to just use a NES controller on your PC, you've had that option for years:

This for original controllers, or even just a standalone option.

In case you didnt know; There are adapters for original NES gamepads too. https://www.amazon.com/RetroBit-Adapter-Controller-Nintendo-Entertainment-System/dp/B004L5KHKS

The screenshots on Amazon have a Ace Combat 7 sticker on it. Hopefully it will!

If you haven't already found a similar deal, Amazon is selling the T3PA Pros for $99.99 today! Jump on it!

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-Set/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_8?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1480366675&sr=1-8&keywords=thrustmaster

I did see that one, I am thinking I will have to increase my price a bit. I did see the Next Level Racing Flight Stand, not sure if it has the clearance I need though. These pedals are quite wide so I'm looking for at least 53cm of inner diameter clearance.

Anyone use this have any means of measuring the inner diameter for me?

Ok, but why should every single one of their products be made for PC gamers? That's why they have specific products made for gaming, and others for the regular users. See the Sidewinder, and the X5 Keyboard

There is only one, and I have it. It works fine. Not the best stick I've ever owned, but it works fine with the game.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-One-xbox/dp/B07643TW2V/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=xbox+joystick+thrustmaster&qid=1573184065&sr=8-1

I purchased this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FFL7WRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405768751&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40


It works fine and is real cheap.

Edit: downvoted? Thanks, dick!

8BitDo makes some good retro controllers that link to Android and iOS. The one I just linked isn't very retro, but it is their cheapest.

The G3s is the one I have, the T1s looks good too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBXHG41/
Has the same features but the phone holder is built in.

These are probably worth the extra $50 Thrustmaster VG T3PA-PRO 3-Pedal Add-On Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BiplDb60283HF

This is the one you have, correct?

http://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894

As long as your pc can recognize it at all, x360ce should recognize it, which should in turn allow KI to recognize it.

Or you could use joy2key or xpadder, which let you map any controller input to keyboard inputs

I use this with my Pi and it works fine.

Their Amazon link is $249 in the US.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CZTSS3O

I use a Thrustmaster TMX Pro. $250 shipped by Amazon in the USA.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-TMX-PRO-Racing-Wheel/dp/B01N9K9N33/

No you're not an idiot. We all make mistakes like that. ;)

I have one of these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004JU0JSA

Wireless but it came with a wireless receiver. You can buy the receivers separately. As long as you get this one (made by Microsoft) you should be able to use your existing X-Box controller with your PC without problems. ;)

This.

Or

If you have Amazon Prime:

https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Saitek-Flight-Rhino-945-000021/dp/B01LX398IE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494857202&sr=8-1&keywords=x56+rhino+hotas

Otherwise not worth it.

I got mine at a night market while i was in Taiwan for $15. The link from amazon is the same one but it’s $50 🤦🏻‍♂️

anazon link

Sounds like your missing the Steam Controller Get it, with a case, for $34

> I'm pretty sure Hori RAP 4 is a PS4 controller.



It is not a PS4 controller, it is a brand and version of fight stick


That being said though, I can understand older sticks having problems.

What about this one?

I'd personally recommend the Speedlink Black Widow, I've used one for years (I'm on my second one after I mistreated it for a while, didn't store it properly and it fucked up the X axis).

Very reasonably priced, has a decent throttle, good stick and integrated rudder on the throttle.

Post this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DWK4NC/

Without this: ?tag=pcpapi-20

Mouse: Microsoft SideWinder X5 Mouse

PAD: Razor Goliathus

Keyboard: Steelseries Shift

Headphones: Sennheiser PC360s

UK: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Windows/dp/B004JU0JSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393872782&sr=8-1&keywords=360+windows+controller

:D

SCIENCE!!! But for real though, would THIS work? http://www.amazon.com/RetroBit-Adapter-Controller-Nintendo-Entertainment-System/dp/B004L5KHKS

You can buy these: RetroBit Retro Adapter NES Controller to USB Port Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004L5KHKS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_2EB7wb42MTBCW

This: http://www.amazon.com/RetroBit-Retro-Adapter-Controller-Nintendo-DS/dp/B004L5KHKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369941570&sr=8-1&keywords=retro+nes+adapter

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B004L5KHKS?camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B004L5KHKS&linkCode=as2&pc_redir=T1&redirect=true&tag=matleggem-21

Use your old controllers by using an adapter

W.

Link

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFL7WRS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1426899016&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=snes+controller+usb&dpPl=1&dpID=41zb-utQF2L&ref=plSrch

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

> a metal one

These babies won't break. They're also probably way overkill for PTT.

T3PA Pro's are $100 https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-Set/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1480338818&sr=1-2&keywords=t3pa

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479783267&sr=8-1&keywords=300rs&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479783267&sr=8-1&keywords=300rs&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-VG-T3PA-PRO-3-Pedal-Add-Set/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479783305&sr=8-2&keywords=T3PA

this one? https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_63_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=652SGMS63GFAVZW8MWY3

Hayabusa
https://www.amazon.com/Arcade-Hayabusa-Fight-PlayStation-Officially-Licensed/dp/B073C5PWS2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503846349&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=hori+rap+pro+v+kai

Rap V Kai
https://www.amazon.com/HORI-Arcade-Pro-V-Fighting-Stick-Windows/dp/B0136JP894/ref=pd_cp_63_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0136JP894&pd_rd_r=CQJFXC3BVVN356FYHPHB&pd_rd_w=vUm1m&pd_rd_wg=D5K50&psc=1&refRID=CQJFXC3BVVN356FYHPHB

Hori Real Arcade Pro V Kai

Mayflash F500 or Mayflash F300 with MagicBoots

There you are