Reddit mentions: The best voltage testers

1. Easy2Boot - http://www.easy2boot.com: Use this to build your USB bootable. You prep the drive with it, and then just drag and drop ISOs :D So easy :D thx, /u/craig131!
   
   
2. TRON - http://bmrf.org/repos/tron/ (official repo) : TRON is a great package allowing you to check systems, repair many types of damage to windows, and remove virii and malware. it is in this subreddit, if you care to look.
   
   
3. Portable Apps - http://www.portableapps.com : A great suite of portable apps you can run off your USB key. Firefox, Chrome, OpenOffice, ClamAV, and many others. Even games, but this is a tech question...
   
   
4. Sysinternals Suite - http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb545021.aspx - The name is well known, and is quite an impressive suit. It speaks for itself.
   
   
5. NTPasswd - Available through Sardu. : I've run into a LOT of customers who REFUSE to give me their user OR admin passwords, and it's wound up being required to fix and backup their junk. Use ONLY for legit reasons, please.
   
   
6. Ninite - Http://www.ninite.com : A wonderful package site that lets you choose productivity, AV, antimalware, antispyware, and other apps and runtimes in ONE stub downloader. Simply choose the apps you want, and click "downlaod installer" It will download a file less than 300k in size that you can run on an internet connected windows PC, and it will download and install the applications you chose. You can even have task scheduler run it in silent, if you ahve the PRO subscription, and it will update the apps, as well.
   
   
7. 33 piece screwdriver set, made by "Pittsburgh" - http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/comfort-grip-screwdriver-set-33-pc-61255.html : Nice set, magnetized tips, and a socket driver with bits is included. Useful for most tasks.
   
   
8. 34 piece PRECISION screwdriver set - http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html : Once again, very usefull for smaller and small ODD bit types of screws. Made by "Pittsburgh" and even includes a flex shaft for getting around corners, if need be.
   
   
9. 100 piece SECURITY bit set. - http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html : Trust me, I hate those little screws with the BUMP in the middle. This takes care of most, and even Apple devices in many cases. Not too shabby for the price.
   
   
10. 14 function digital multimeter - http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html : Nice meter. Not a FLUKE, but not 50.2 googol dollars, either.
    
    
11. 5 Function digital clamp on meter - http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-on-multimeter-95652.html : Used for measuring current draw, is all I use it for.
    
    
12. 3 set of SAE/METRIX/STAR hex keys. - http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-folding-star-bit-and-sae-metric-hex-keys-94905.html : For the odd time you need hex keys.
    
    
13. 2TB HDD (USB 3.0, please) - Available at Newegg, of course. : Used for backing up customer data in the field as necessary.
    
    
14. Headset, plug in type. - On web, at radio shack, etc : Used for testing audio on systems. And keeping the peace.
    
    
15. Fold up tool bag - http://www.harborfreight.com/20-in-rollaway-tool-bag-61925.html : Used to hold your kit.
    
    
16. LAPTOP - Anywhere fine computers are sold : I can't stress this enough. I've been in situations where a tech has FORGOTTEN to bring a laptop, and had to borrow mine. It is SO great to be able to test the internet connection when they say it is down, and to SSH/FTP/Download needed things. GET ONE :D
    
    
17. MOUSE : Nothing sucks more for doing work quickly than a laptop trackpad, IMHO. Also, great for testing USB ports. GET A CHEAP ONE. Don't kill your Logitech G600!
    
    
18. A 2.1 Amp wall charger with at LEAST one USB port. - Available on Web : This can be a life saver!
    
    
19. Various USB charger cables. - Http://www.monoprice.com - Another life saving thing.
    
    
20. A VGA, a DVI, a HDMI, and a DISPLAYPORT cable set - Http://www.monoprice.com : For those days when it MIGHT be the cable.
    
    
21. A small spare LCD panel monitor! - Http://www.newegg.com : For testing those no display systems and laptops.
    
    
22. A spare USB keyboard - Http://www.newegg.com : Pick your fave junker :D
    
    
23. A USB battery pack! - Http://www.monoprice.com or Http://www.amazon.com : This thing has saved me a few times on the road when I forgot...
    
    
24. Cigarette lighter USB charger - Http://www.amazon.com : This thing is wonderful :) Make sure to get a 2 amp one :D
    
    
25. DC to AC car cigarette lighter inverter - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021190 : Yes. Laptops DO run out charge on the road.
    
    
26. A 4G Hotspot - Various wireless cell carriers : There are plenty of job sites without even so much as DIAL UP internet, and you desperately need a driver.
    
    
27. A cellular telephone - Various cellular wireless carriers : Phone calls, boss calls, 911, etc.
    
    
28. Universal laptop charger kit - http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/products/computer-accessories/RF-ACU9025.html - $69.99! I know it seems pricey, but it is honestly GREAT when people have a laptop that CAN'T charge due to missing brick, or WON'T charge and it MIGHT be the brick. Plus, you can leave your MAIN laptop charger at home!
    
    
29. 8GB USB thumb drives - http://www.microcenter.com/product/280099/8GB_USB_20_Flash_Drive: As pointed out, later, they can be obtained from Microcenter Online for $4.99 USD.
    
    
30. A lunch! Be sure to grab your favorite HEALTHIER snacks, like granola bars, REAL fruit juice, water, etc. If it will be a significant stay, be sure to grab sandwiches or lunch meat, bread, and condiments. Also, grab a cooler and 4 ice packs to hold it all and keep it cool. Bacteria BAD!
    
    
31. Pens, pencils, sharpie markers, and WRITABLE TAPE. Also throw in velcro ties for tidying up cables. It's a labor of love in some paces, but clients do appreciate it! Do NOT, however, velcor AC or DC cables together with network cables ;)
    
    
32. Pliers and wire cutters! You never know when something will get stubborn!
    
    
33. GMER on you main thumb drive! - http://www.gmer.net ! :Rootkit detection and removal kit.
    
    
34. HookShark - http://www.woodmann.com/collaborative/tools/index.php/HookShark - HookShark is a detector of installed hooks and patches installed on the system (only usermode for now). It scans through the code-section of every loaded module of each running process and compares it with the file-image. If it detects discrepancies it tries to determine the type of hook or patch and reports it to the user.
    
    
35. http://drp.su/ - DriverPack Solutions. : Download the DVD ISO via bittorrent, and there is a TON of drivers on the image. You do NOT need to use the installer. Just point to the appropriate driver directory and search subfolders. You should be golden.
    
    
36. Technibble support contract package and checklists. - http://www.techinbble.com : A good package of paperwork, covering your but in most cases. Grab it, and edit it for your business name, etc :D It is no longer provided, but there are similar packages :D
    
    
37. Network cable tester from http://www.amazon.com : It cost me $5USD and is a definite help
    
    
38. Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 crimper, Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 ends, boots, and a box of category 5E. : Http://www.amazon.com - This tool, ends, and cable are GREAT for running new cat 5e effectively. The ends are open on both ends, and you can slide the wires through in the proper order, crimp, and trim, all in one shot. Worth the price.
    
    
39. RG6 Quad shielded cable spool, RG6Quad compression fittings, stripper, and compression tool : http://www.homedepot.com - I use compression fittings for cable modem cable runs. I love the weatherproof ones, and they are easy to set up.
    
    
40. A "spudger" - https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iSesamo-Opening-Tool/IF145-130 : This tool is GREAT for popping laptops. Thanks /u/wanderingbilby for reminding me!
    
    41, A flashlight. Preferably, a head mount one will be included, as well as small handheld, and normal sized. I prefer LED ones :D
    
    
41. T shaped Wall Tap (US), 2 to 3 prong adapter (US), and Outlet tester (US) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081A4GEC?pldnSite=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027B3KO8?pldnSite=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X3FSAQ?pldnSite=1 : Heaven forbid, you plug something in of your kit and it POPS :(
    
    ■ EDIT ■
    
    Cleaned up the listings :D
    
    ■ EDIT ■
    
    NOT NECESSARY, but I have it... - I also have, available, a 1U Xeon X3210 server with 8GB of RAM and 2 160GB SATA drives in RAID1 as a "temporary" server if the client has a server go down and needs something up ASAP. I have them sign off that I am NOT responsible for any inadequacies in performance or functionality, it is MY equipment, I will support it 8AM to 9PM for 2 weeks, and at the end of those two weeks, I am taking it back. It is their responsibility to procure a replacement for their down server, and they are responsible for the PHYSICAL well being of my server.
    
    
    
    S/A

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

It varies widely by where you are, what local you're in, and what you like in tools.

I just went through the whole "what tools" dialog over the past several months. It's hard to do, and you really want to be prepared to start, but wait. Save some money and be ready to buy something when the union calls and you get your minimum tool list. Get the minimum tools at first.

Many shops out there don't expect you to have your whole tool bag on day one. Get a very basic array of tools and buy an item or two per payday as you get going.

My shop rarely uses some of the items on the "must have" union list, but all the guys say "these aren't on your list, but we use them dozens of times a day, every day."

Here's what I'd recommend regardless of your union minimum tool list (my preference in parentheses):

-Linemans pliers (Knipex or Klein, tape pulling)
-#1 and #2 Phillips (Wera 300 or 900 series)
-3.5mm and 5.5mm slotted (Wera 900 series)
-6.5" and 10" pump pliers (Channellock 426/430)
-16' Tape measure (Milwaukee)
-something to keep your tools in, and fairly organized.

I have a large sized tool belt if needed, but found that I prefer to have a small Husky 7-pocket Utility Pouch and grab the few tools I'll need for the next job out of my bag, and a Magnogrip Nail Pouch if I need to carry a bunch of wire nuts or something like that. I can throw on my big tool bag if I'm doing a variety of stuff, but find that it's heavy and I end up carrying a ton of stuff I won't use. But I work in prefab, so my tool bag is always nearby and I process work orders for specific amounts of given items, so I generally know what 3-4 tools I'll need for the next task.

Make a prioritized tool list. If you borrow a tool more than once a day, move that to the top of your list.

My JATC requires a certain level/spec of multimeter, but when I arrived at my shop, they said I could not use my own Fluke 179 meter I've had prior to this job, the company provides them. I am allowed to have something like a Fluke T5-600/1000, but only for basics like continuity and testing if a circuit works; anything measuring voltage or current had to be done with the supplied meters. And it's extremely rare that I need anything other than continuity checks, because my shop has an absolute no live circuit policy for apprentices whatsoever (not just live work, but anything that exposes a component that is energized, even removing a switch plate). But I'm also not on a job site, I'm in the warehouse.

Mostly, the guys in my shop all agree: don't buy kits, buy a tool here and there. And you'll be surprised what your shop provides. I've already been given several items that the shop provides to everyone.

Disclaimer: I am not telling you to ignore or go beyond your provided tool list, just recommending what I've either used or have seen a lot of people recommending over time. If you show up on day one with the minimum list, you'll be fine and learn what you want to add. It's great to be prepared, but don't feel like you have to break the bank to have every tool recommended on /r/electricians on day one. Lots of guys said they didn't have anything but a Klein 11-in-1 and cheap linemans pliers when they started and they got by.

This might save your ass from a good shock. Most people treat the NCVT like a must have. Although it’s good to make sure it’s working before trusting it. The plug tester is nice to have for diagnosing problems.

KLEIN TOOLS NCVT2KIT Basic Voltage Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IX6DIVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J3w1Ab0HH2CEN

You’ll want to get some nutdrivers too. I’ll list the most used sizes.
1/4”
5/16”
3/8”
1/2”
7/16”
9/16”

You’ll want to get a knife too. This is the one I have. I found it for $14 at my local Home Depot.

Milwaukee 48-22-1985 Hawk Bill Folding Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IQCDWIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wcx1AbE52QB22

A wrench set in standard sizes is nice to have. You can apply the sizes for nutdrivers to what you’ll want for this.

A tape measure is a must have

Klein Tools 86216 Double Hook Magnetic Tape Measure, 16-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1O7BG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hhx1AbNJPCNH9

I went through 3 different levels because I didn’t want to pay more for one with nice magnets. I would recommend just spending the 10$ extra and not have to buy another one.

Klein Tools 935AB4V ACCU-BEND Level https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M302QTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yjx1AbCSENM8Y

A decent head lamp will also be really helpful. I still need to buy one myself. You can pick one up at most Walmart’s or Home Depot/Lowe’s

Next is a list of tools you can buy pretty cheap at your local hardware/tool store. I typically buy off brand for these.

Hammer
Offset screwdrivers
Allen wrench set
Stubby screwdrivers
Pencils
Sharpie markers
Pencil sharpener


You’ll notice that a lot of my recommendations have been klein brand. That’s because you can take them back for a free replacement if they ever break. A lifetime warranty is definitely something to consider when buying tools. With klein, it’s as easy as walking into Home Depot and presenting the broken tool to the customer service desk. You’ll be out of there in 10 minutes with a brand new tool.

This is all based of my experience working commercial, so your mileage may vary.

A resting battery should read 12.6 volts, give or take. As the downvotes on some of these comments would imply, this 'give or take' isn't that big of a deal... but it is.

A car battery is made for starting. These batteries are designed to push out a ton of amps (called cranking amps) just for a few seconds. There's a big difference between a car battery and, say... a marine battery. A marine battery is made to run electronics (such as your navigation, sounder, bait well, etc) while the boat is off. This requires amp-hours. These are called deep-cycle batteries. In a deep cycle battery, 'about 12 volts' would fly. In a car, the 'about 12' should really be "about 12.6 +/- a couple tenths of an amp." So, 12.3-12.6 would be okay if your starter is good... but not 11.8. That would probably not crank the car over.

Just make sure your starting elements are in good shape. Alternator, Battery, Starter, Etc. Quick Troubleshooting Guide:

• A resting battery should read 12.6 volts. Any less than that with everything off means you have an issue
  
• A battery with the car on should read 14.3. Anything significantly less or more means you have alternator trouble.
  
• A starter should "tap tap tap" very rapidly. A bad starter means a battery that will have to work harder, and it goes on from there.
  
  There's a lot more to it than that, but that'll give you the basic idea.
  
  If you're seriously concerned, get one of these. Run some wire through the firewall to the battery. Red to red, black to black with a toggle switch in between. You could know your voltage on demand! The more practical solution is to keep doing what you're doing... start the car every once in a while. Even a few minutes is enough for the alternator to give the battery some juice!
  
  Have a Harbor Freight near ya? There's almost always a coupon for a free multimeter. It's not bad either! I wouldn't trust it for serious stuff, but for free it's great to get your feet wet with and keep in the glovebox for the just-in-case. Good luck!

That's basically what I wanted to do but everything is really really really rigged to prevent up and coming people from developing anything to help customers. My work around was basically just to do "consulting" for people wanting to DIY with the various systems and to offer my support i/e I basically come by and build it for you but you still gotta be there because otherwise it wouldn't be a DIY it'd be a me doing it which would require me to have all kinds of stupid expensive licenses that ultimately make everything too expensive. There's just so many people going around telling others how "complicated" everything is and that they need to hire a contractor to do it but it's just a huge huge huge lie. It's not complicated at all and really the biggest and most important thing to know is safety. What sort of systems are required for you to have them on your house, that kinda stuff. Most regions a simple island protection is the main thing you need for your inverter which is what basically any grid-tie inverter will have. It's setup so it can sense when the grid goes down and will shut down the system when that happens so the lines aren't energized when they are being worked on. HOA's are another gigantic pain in the ass because it's basically just ignorant lazy stay at home mom's or old people who know nothing about technology who want to tell you what you can and cannot do to make your house better. I actually had a HOA down in georgia try to tell me that putting up solar panels will drive down the value of the other houses around me....seriously they said that. I have no idea how anyone could think that's a possibility but oh well. So I got around their control by just installing the panels on PVC pipes on the ground and attached wheels on them so they were mobile when I wanted them to be. They were no longer a "permanent structure or addon" so the HOA couldn't do or say anything. Loved that one. Also had my neighbor try to tell me that I couldn't do solar because "global warming is a lie"..... I didn't even need his permission I was just asking how he felt about it.

I got into it at first because my dad wanted a solar panel system and so I started researching it for him for pricing. I would get quotes for 2kW systems(generates 2kWh's per hour) for like $20,000 and I just didn't understand how it could be that expensive. So I researched it by physically building my own panels and systems. Was able to build my own solar panel, cells and all for 72 watts at $50 and being able to make one per day or so based on materials. Then I found pre-made things solar panels, inverters, batteries, etc.... and put together a 2kW system and it only cost roughly $2000 or 10x less than what that company wanted to sell it for. Basically it just seemed to me that they didn't actually WANT to have people adopt more solar and were just in it for a quick buck. I hate that. A standard house uses anywhere between 30-50 kWh's per day so buying a 2kW system is almost enough to go off the grid entirely since a kWh is calculated at kW's times hours so a 2kW system will generate 2kWh's per hour or 16+ kWh's per day. You can also cut down on your power consumption drastically by doing away with all the converters in all your system i/e those power bricks on the cords. Pretty much everything you have uses DC power but it converts it from AC so if you were to just use DC it would cut out a good amount of waste. Only issue would be to make sure you have the correct voltage but that's simple by using a buck-boost converter on each socket so you can just set the voltage you want and you're good to go. It'd actually be super cool looking. https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B00J03PBW0/ref=pd_cp_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00J03PBW0&pd_rd_r=TMDYZV4BN1T9BFJNRN58&pd_rd_w=bRJs2&pd_rd_wg=4RLeo&psc=1&refRID=TMDYZV4BN1T9BFJNRN58 basically you could even cut out a little section so the controls and display are visible to you. Idk about you but I think it would look awesome and really really high tech. Only areas that you can't do that would be anything with motors in them because they do actually usually need AC power so your fridge and central air/window unit would still need AC.

I work a lot with meters like these. You're right that they are mostly 120V. Poking around Amazon and Google, there doesn't seem to be anything which handles 220V which can just be plugged in-line with the appliance. Beyond that, there are devices which can meter 220V, but they are not consumer devices, cost $100 and up and need to be wired directly into the circuit.

Your best bet would be to contact your electric company, surprisingly enough - many of them have an energy efficiency initiative or department which will help you reduce your energy costs or offer incentives towards buying energy-efficient fixtures.

While I likely agree with everything.... I'm think I'll go with a 40 AMP breaker, 240V, and it's looking like #6 gage wire... I have 30 video cards and I'd like to have them all on the same circuit with something like this:


Electric kWh Meter, 100A 120/240 Volt, 3-Wire, 60Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMZRXE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_w4yIzb04F603G


That way I can (safely) run everything thru that and have an idea just how much this absurdity is costing me (exactly, I mean, I know roughly, but with an entire house of gadgets who can be sure). I believe the #6 is good up to 40 amps under 50' and leaves me looooads of wiggle room if my meter gives me comfort on overclocking and such... (At stock 30 1080 Ti's use ~35 AMPs including 90% efficiency, so fuck, maybe I can't over draw on them lol)


These are what ifs of course, I'm still just closing on the house who's basement I'd do this to


Edit: would it be better to do a sub panel situation (I have plenty of free #12 AWG wire) so I can buy just 10 feet or so of #6, put the meter on it, and run it to a sub panel, then run #12 from there to an outlet each for a rig each

As far as the electrical goes, its easy to do but, for the love of God, turn the power off while working on it! Networking your house ain't worth your life!! Watch some YouTube videos on how to wire the the receptacle.

Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451424239&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=receptacle+checker&dpPl=1&dpID=51hlg2obNeL&ref=plSrch

After you wire the receptacle, turn the power on, and plug this in. It will show you if you made any mistakes. Just read the instructions.

The hardest part you're going to run into is getting from the crawl space to the attic. Try and find a plumbing drain. Plumbers generally cut the holes way bigger than needed and you can slide in beside them.

Another option is using a fireplace if you have one. The framing around it should be loose enough for you to fish wires down beside it.

The easiest thing you can do is run a PVC pipe on the exterior of the house in an inconspicuous spot and paint it to match your house.

Save yourself a million headaches by pulling a pull string along with your wires for subsequent runs. Twine is cheap.

Feel free to ask me anything else you might be curious about!

Source: am electrician.

Wow thanks for the detailed reply.

So the den seems pretty simple and is something I think I can do myself with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3R74QQ/?coliid=I1Y0JMYFMH0N79&colid=VMZPIDTKAT7V&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I live in an apartment and don't think I should be getting too complex here. However is there a way an electrician could redo the wiring and add a neutral wire easily and cheaply? Or is that a big job for someone to do ?

Also is it strange for the wiring to be totally different within the same apartment like my bedroom and den or is that pretty normal ?

As others have stated that's an equipment ground plug so it shouldn't be any problem but to be safe when removing any broken cord prongs from an outlet.

1. Turn off the power. Use a handy plugin or induction tester to ensure the power is off.plug in tester induction tester
   
   
2. keep both feet squarely on the ground and wear rubber soles. Do not take a knee or touch the ground with any other part of your body. Do not lean against the wall in any way. Do not touch any exposed metal surfaces, counter tops or sinks.
   
   
3. tuck one hand behind your back and use the other hand to pull out the object with a pair of pliers.
   
   When in doubt hire a professional. Safety first.

I appreciate the reply.

As for the multimeter, I believe it's a Fluke, very similar (if not the same) as this. My dad is an electrician so he generally has decent stuff in this area. I just wish he had an O-Scope.

That makes sense about volume, I'm know I've read that somewhere. I guess I assume since the Head Unit's preamp voltage is 4V, that it wouldn't send the amp anything more than 4V even at max volume. Clearly I'm misunderstanding something.

What confuses me is none of the gain matching write ups I've seen mention the head unit putting out way more voltage at 0 gain. I mean it confuses me that the HU is putting out 225W worth of voltage to the front speakers (max volume with a 0db test tone. (225Wx4ohm)^(1/2)= 30V) when the HU is rated at 14W RMS, 50W Max.

Is it possible that the amp is amplifying the signal even at 0 gain? Is it possible to test the voltage from the RCA outputs (negative probe on ring, positive on the post), essentially bypassing the amp?

I'm hoping I can stop by the audio shop in town and see if they have an O-Scope to see what my max volume would be on the Head Unit.

Again, thanks for the reply, I'm just baffled because in all my reading I didn't expect an issue like this to arise.

I've had one of these for a few years now. I consider it a pretty great investment as it's helped me out several times. Power supply tester.

Personally, I'm now in the habit of always using a UPS. The best part? I keep my internet stuff on a UPS too and I usually have internet during power outages. It's great.

This is some information about power strips.

When you hit the power button, does anything at all happen? Is there any clicking? Do the motherboard lights eventually go out? Do you have to reset the PSU before you can do anything? Or is it just absolutely flat out nothing when you press the switch?

It's pretty easy, especially with Lutron Caseta, because they don't need a neutral wire.

1. Turn the light on so you can see it has power
   
2. Turn off the circuit breaker
   
3. Confirm that the light went off
   
4. Use a voltage tester to verify that none of the wires in the electrical boxes have power going through them
   
5. (Optional) Take a picture of the current switch and wires
   
6. Remove the old switch
   
7. Install the new switch
   
8. Turn the circuit breaker back on
   
9. Test the new switch
   
10. Add the smart switch to your app(s)
    
    Tips:
    
    

• Online videos will help you through the process - it might be good to watch one first to see what to expect.
  
• Lutron Caseta dimmers have videos for them specifically.
  
• Keep your wires neat and tight - smart switches usually take more room than standard switches
  
• Identify your 3-way and 4-way installations and order appropriately
  
• I always order the Lutron Caseta kit that includes a Pico remote for 3-way installs because its only $4 more than without and much less expensive than buying the stuff separately. You can always use the extra Pico remotes for something
  
  Things to have:
  
  
• voltage tester
  
• philips screw driver
  
• flat blade screw driver
  
• electricians tape
  
• wire nuts
  
• flashlight (headlamp)
  
• pliers
  
• wire cutters
  
  Also, get the Lutron Caseta, they are rock solid reliable and very fast/responsive.

I have a USB power meter and dummy load and test all of my equipment with it. I see how long it runs on a full charge and can calculate the approximate efficiency since I know the battery capacity. I tested the F2 last winter and consistently got 74% at 1.5a and 75% at 1a with 18650 and 21700 batteries.

A regular old anker 6700 is around 80% and the one I use currently is a novoo 10k that's 85%. Some banks with pouch cells are even underrated after efficiency (measure at over 100%) but they tend to be so heavy they still aren't worth it

Edit: taking weight into account the F2 is still a solid option especially once you get past 2 cells. but the best powerbanks are better per gram and come with quick charge if you're willing to get rid of flexibility

modifying them to accept external voltage is both cheap and effective.

I have 4 dc boost modules, one per axis + single extruder. with the printer running and the heated bed off (since it cycles on and off when it only needs to be at 60degC), the control board + the boost modules + the fans + the heater cartridge + the LCD screens (I have a TFT28 and RepRap discount controller hooked up at the same time), the printer consumes about 84 watts when printing (measured at the AC input).

You could do what I did a lot easier by using just one unit like this 150W one: https://www.amazon.com/Gowoops-10-32V-Converter-Adjustable-Voltage/dp/B00J1X4XXM/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=GBF90A2DQJT7VEMF415F&th=1

or perhaps even this one since it's about 100W

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B00J03PBW0/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M4D39ZHV4RJRJHK4A93Y

I think the total power consumption at 30V is around 60-65 watts (at the AC Input), so with air cooling that should work fine.

Hi. There's a couple things you can do to reduce RFI. Like you said, you can use a shielded cable. It would help if you can connect both ends to ground -- but make sure your electrical mains entrance ground is correct and up to code. You should have a ground rod right below the entrance, and it should be connected to your panel. All lines should be grounded lines, and you should have 3-prong outlets for all circuits. Get an outlet tester to be sure all sockets are wired correctly.

Another thing you can do is add ferrites on all wires going into and out of the HVAC units (power, data, everything). These act as RF filters.

Now bluetooth and microwave ovens use the same frequency band (2.4 GHz). Its not unusual for some low level RF energy to leak out of microwave ovens, and overpower a low-power data connection like bluetooth. But if its more than a low-power leak it may indicate a faulty oven, or a bad ground.

Its possible you have a nearby intermittent transmitter that is affecting things. It could be an airport thing, or maybe a two-way radio like for police or fire, or maybe a neighbor with a CB radio or ham radio. If this is a licensed user and they have a correctly engineered installation, its up to your devices to accept interference. Proper grounding and filtering will help though.

I hope this gives you someplace to start. Good luck.

It seems like it is ok. One good way to test the power output of a PSU is with a tester. One like this is nice to have on hand.

Or you could use software, such as HWiNFO. It can monitor your PSU as well as other aspects of your machine.

don't sweat it. if you just use the topper that comes with it (or things like it) you'll be fine. but what you need is a way of checking your battery's voltage because you don't want to discharge the battery below 3.5-3.6 volts. i have VV mods that tell me, but i found it was a lot easier to just pinch it between the wires on a voltmeter like this one: http://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-4-0-30v-Digital-Display-Voltmeter/dp/B00B689UGA/

just hold the black wire against the - terminal on your battery and the red wire against the + terminal and check the reading.


you'll also want a better charger than the one that it came with to prevent overcharging. if you get a voltmeter you can check the batteries as they come off the charger as well. they shouldn't read over 4.2v (i generally get 4.15-4.18).

I would also suggest popping onto /r/fixapc/ and posting this if you haven't already.

Did you build this PC yourself?

I would suggest checking to make sure that the stand-offs are properly installed. Also check your ground connection. It's definitely power related. Like something is retaining power that shouldn't or something is getting power that it shouldn't or something is not getting power that it should. Which is why I am checking for a short (the standoffs and ground). The other thing I would suggest is trying another power supply. You could also get yourself one of these to test your power supply. You don't need to get that fancy of one if you are OK with basic readouts. I just don't know what you skill level is when it comes to electrical work. If it's not the powersupply and not the standoffs I would lean towards the MoBo.

Good luck!

Thanks for bringing that to my attention. The TOBH is the RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer) and the Kayfun is a RTA (Rebuildable Tank Atomizer). The dripper you drip drops into it and the RTA has a tank. On both of these you would build your coils and wick them with whatever you choose whether cotton, eco wool, rayon, etc..

The nitecore charger is probably the best charger under $20 from what I've tried.

As for a Ohm reader I actually use a multimeter since I can't check the resistance of my rebuildables and the voltage of my batteries plus some other things around home.
INNOVA 3300 Hands-free Digital Multimeter (10 MegOhm) by Innova http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O1X65A/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_qTy8tb0YVJTAA

Finally between the vtc 4 and 5 the mAH difference is 500 mAH. The 5 is the newest one from Sony and a little bit more. I personally went with the VTC 4 from ilumn with the coupon code ispower shipping essentially was free.

If anything doesn't make sense or still need more explanation let me know it's a bit late here so my sentences may not be as clear as usual. Also the two rebuildable are in my opinion the best and shouldn't be taken as fact.

By capacity, I mean watt-hours or amp-hours. It's true for both measurements.

For your purposes, load is watts. In a powerbank, the voltage of the USB output stays the same while the voltage of the battery decreases as it drains. If you're charging a phone that wants 1.0A @ 5V = 5W, you're going to need 5.0W/4.2V = 1.19A (plus a little for the inefficiency of the circuit) from the battery when it's full, but 5.0W/3.0V = 1.67A when it's nearly empty.

People testing batteries (not powerbanks) use a load with constant amps, so lower watts when the battery is low than when it's full.

> so a power source (like a powerbank) can adjust it's volt output by itself apparently? if so the power source cant output volt beyond what is the default volt of the power source, is that accurate?

A USB powerbank uses a type of switched-mode power supply called a boost converter. It produces output with a constant voltage, while the voltage of the battery powering it decreases as it drains. In the case of basic USB, it's always 5.0V. Fast-charging standards like Qualcomm QuickCharge and USB Power Delivery use higher voltages, so there are powerbanks that have a more sophisticated boost converter that can select the voltage after communicating with the device being charged, but the principle is the same.

> there doesnt seem to be any main commonplace sites that does these testing prob cos it's so specialisd

USB power meters are cheap and sold on Amazon. Anyone doing a review of a powerbank or a comparison between different models should at least do a test of the actual output capacity.

If you're shopping for a powerbank, the main technical detail you're going to want to know is output capacity with a load similar to yours (powering a phone is different from powering a laptop, or four phones, etc...). A test is required to know this.

It's just a simple volt meter, if I had a smaller red one I might have tried to stick it in front of the screen but that's not happening with those blue LEDs. I just try to check the voltage every time I take the goggles off, but the fact that the goggles will easily outlast all of my flight batteries (I only have four 4S packs) means I never need to. I saw your other thread, you can get a direct replacement for the batteries. You had bad luck, but I haven't had trouble with either of my packs, so you might want to give it a shot. I'm pretty sure the barrel connector is the same as the one Fatshark uses, as well, so that 18650 adapter they sell might also work.

Light fixtures are very easy to replace. There's a risk of electric shock, but that's easy to avoid. First turn on the light, then go and switch breakers off and on until the light turns off, helps to have a 2nd person to yell when it does. Sometimes the breakers are labeled, but that's like winning the lottery. Pick up one of these guys to quickly verify that the wires aren't going to shock you.

some electrical stuff is really complicated, but as long as a homeowner's first steps are

1. turn off the circuit breaker
   
   
2. use a voltage tester to be 100% sure the electricity is off
   
   then it's perfectly safe after that

Well, its certainly not a bad PSU (model-wise), but its possible something could be wrong inside it. You would need to test it, either with a tester, or with an alternate PSU.

Tester: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

If you haven't already, try to open your case, inspect all the cables and cords carefully. Make sure nothing is touching your fans or poking against any electronics. Also, make sure you are using zip-ties or velcro for cable management. NEVER use twist-ties, they have an aluminum core in them.

Give your PC a good dust-out with air cans. Once you are done, recheck for the noise. If there is ANY concern that its the power supply, do not keep using it until you have it tested or test it yourself. Some PC shops and Micro Centers can test power supplies but I don't know if they do it for free or charge.

It is possible that irregular voltages could have damaged the GPU, but likely it's OK.

The best way to test a PSU is with an actual tester, this is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463180347&sr=8-2&keywords=power+supply+tester

You can also test each rail manually with a multimeter: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/ht/power-supply-test-multimeter.htm

I can say with about 85% certainty that a new PSU will clear up your issues, but there is a small chance it's damaged another component.

Yep. And honestly everything else is just about as simple as hooking up the ceiling fan. Two wires and an earth ground. Just for future reference, they sell these relatively cheap non-contact voltage detectors that are really good for people who want to do their own electrical work. These are better than a meter for determining power on/off because they're so simple to use. You just hold it next to the wire and press the button, and it will tell you if there's power or not. The best method is to check it with the break on and confirm power is present, then flip the breaker and confirm it's not. Then check every other wire in the box you're working in, and you'll have some confidence that all circuits involved have been turned off.

I'm an electrical engineer in an industrial environment, and we require all of our electricians to carry and use these, even though they all know how to use meters very well, just because they're so fool proof. There's no chance of picking the wrong setting, or not having a lead connected properly.

doorbells are easy enough to handle, as long as the transformer is still good. the transformer converts your home's 120volt electricity to 12 volts (usually) via this large, fist sized looking block, usually located nearish to the breaker box.

doorbells are run in a low voltage loop. the power is supplied from the breaker box or a nearby junction box to the transformer. then it runs from the transformer in a big circle to the chime and the buzzer. when you press the doorbell buzzer, you're completing the circuit and it causes the chime to sound.

1. turn off the power to the transformer, check with a voltage tester.
   
   
2. unscrew buzzer or chime. you can do either one first. it doesn't really matter. just make sure you have a clamp or something like that hand. sometimes those little wires like to fall back into the wall. clamp the wires so that they don't.
   
   
3. once either part is unscrewed from the wall, you'll see two contacts. usually it doesn't matter which wire connects to which contact, provided you get a standard two wire doorbell system. disconnect the two wires from the existing contacts.
   
   
4. clean off the wires a little bit. they're probably dirty and oxidized. if they're really nasty looking, you can cut them back a little and strip the coating off the wire for some fresh copper.
   
   
5. reattach the wires. you'll probably need a little screwdriver for this.
   
   
6. i like to seal around the doorbell buzzer with some caulk. helps protect it from the elements a bit.
   
   
7. attach the chime/buzzer back to the wall. some just fasten with screws. others have mounting brackets that fastened to the wall with anchors or something. then the actual faceplate of the chime/buzzer snaps on to that.
   
   
8. turn your power back on at the breaker.
   
   
9. test it out.
   
   
10. act smug and cocky with your SO about how easily you completed this and never let him/her forget it by always saying "remember that time..."

Yes. Make sure you turn off the breaker. If you want to feel extra comfortable turn off all the circuits haha. Or get a circuit tester like this: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426008999&sr=8-3&keywords=circuit+tester

It is just a bit outside your range but for field use I love my Fluke T5. It is better for more industrial applications rather than desktop hobbyist work but it is bulletproof as far as I know. I use mine for HVAC troubleshooting.

No idea about the helmet. As far as tools go

non contact voltage tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_XxzgAb8RCT4Y9

Works great for double checking the utilities are off or isolating a particular circuit if you don't want to leave someone's house entirely without power

4 in 1 screwdriver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009V431/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vzzgAbASETAEA

For screwing and unscrewing things

Reasonable sized channel locks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZAzgAbD9C5JND

For a while I had vice grips instead of these but found with gloves on they were a little too clunky to manipulate. Works great for grabbing and loosening like gas connections to dryers

And this rescue tool dealio
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057UMN3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZCzgAbQY3EK8Z

Works as your battery cutter, prying tool, gas shutoff and a spanner. I cut one of those little locks that secures piv valves and commercial sprinkler systems with this thing before my partner could make it back with bolt cutters so that alone was worth half the price

thanks for the encouragement!

I certainly do have non-contact voltage testers readily available and multimeters as i've been luckily enough to have made mistakes which made sparks but didnt hurt or burn anything down so i've learned my lesson. If i'm not 100%, take 5 seconds to check vs spending 5 hours at the hospital! =)

Non-Contact Voltage tester for those wondering what that is (life saver tool):

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-1-Non-Contact-Indicator/dp/B001UAHZAM/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1792TVYRSE11A&keywords=non+contact+voltage+tester&qid=1572892596&sprefix=non-voltage+con%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-6

Get yourself a good meter like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006Z3GZU?ie=UTF8&tag=vrefid-20&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0006Z3GZU&linkCode=xm2

This is just the features you need on a daily basis as an electrician in a top-not durable case.

Don't get a shitty $20 meter.

Also the Klein tape measure is super solid:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QH6VJ6?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&tag=vrefid-20&creativeASIN=B005QH6VJ6&linkCode=xm2

Do you already have the solenoid? I really recommend a Relay isolator instead.

Looks all good but I'm not sure why your solenoid it connected to your fuse box? I would just connect your auxiliary battery to it.

For the ignition source I used my car stereo for that it isn't much power so the amperage should be okay for it.

Edit: Some additional info after having time to look stuff over more.
I would get a simple reader like this.

You'll need at least a 4 gauge wire for the starter to the isolator with it being 80amps.

Are you getting a fuse with a ground connecter? if not theres no need for a grounding wire from the fuse box as each item being powered will just need to be grounded.

Everything else looks fine tho I'm not totally sure on some of those wire gauges for the items outside of the isolator, I use 12 or 14 for most of my items; lights, fan, usb charger, sink pump.

I'd recommend something like this, it's amazing how many things it tests and how well, it'll give you resistance values and capacitor capacities along with testing led's and more

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H6QKVOU


As well it's just and audrino, you can get the source and edit it if nessasary

wow thanks - does this one seem as good as any?
https://www.amazon.com/Non-Contact-12V-1000V-Flashlight-Adjustable-Sensitivity/dp/B01N99D3MS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519612636&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=Dual+Range+Non-Contact+Voltage+Tester&psc=1

The sub panel being hooked to a 50A breaker on the main panel is normal. Someone installed a 50A sub panel. This is great for you as you can shut off the entire sub panel by fliping the 50A breaker in the main panel. That way you do not have to worry about anything being live when you install a new circuit. Buy an electrical tester pen first just to make sure the sub panel is off.

You are correct about how to install the new 15A breaker, and it will need 14 gauge wire. You need to make sure its the same type of breaker that is currently in your sub panel as there is more then one kind.

As to the white wire to the copper bus unless someone else posts a good reason for that its wrong. I would pay someone to inspect your sub panel just to be sure there are not other wiring issues.

If you’re looking for a non contact voltage tester ( tick tracer) my personal favorite is the fluke.

Fluke 1AC-A1-II VoltAlert Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PMRkDb24ADV56

If you’re looking for a wiggy to check actual voltage I would recommend buying a volt meter. I currently use this one and love it.

Fluke T5600 Electrical Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rPRkDbNV768AZ

Ham radio operator here. Make sure you have proper grounding. That is, make sure you have a shielded PC case (NO BIG PLEXIGLAS WINDOWS), and make sure your power cord is properly grounded (3-prong plug into a 3-prong outlet). Make sure your outlet is appropriately grounded (get one of these). Make sure your home/building uses an appropriate ground rod at your mains feedpoint (where the power lines enter your building).

Then, ferrites on all cords leading to your audio amplifier (amplified speakers). That includes, the audio input, the power line and any speaker outputs.

Thanks for the input. I agree on second thought, rather than have angrier pixies and try and calm them down, would be better have calmer pixies and try and get them angrier.

Any idea for a good board for this?

DROK®Micro LED DC-DC Digital Boost Voltage Converter LM2577 3-34V to 4-35V 5V/12V 2.5A Step-up Adjustable Volt Regulator Board Module Power Supply Transformer for Solar Panels Car Battery Charging https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00J03PBW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W-eTybWN408CA

It would miss out on the coolness factor of dropping a tool battery in the wife's jug pumper though.

Look into code, don't cut corners and get yourself one of these outlet testers to check your work. Like someone else said, hooking up sub panels and big jobs, have someone come in.

I'm lucky my brother in law is a very professional electrician, I always check my plans with him and I do all the work. He'll come and make the connection at the panel just to be safe, but after watching him I'd feel comfortable doing that.

Extensions are easier to make, as you said 1 to 1, no hassle. Custom cables for modular PSU requires pin-out diagrams and a tester to insure that the cables are correct and won't "blow your rig." You may also run into double wires, which require a little more work to make them look good and function correctly.

In the end extensions are cheaper, less time consuming, and easier to install for most people. Custom cables are a lot more time consuming and require more tools to ensure that everything is kosher.

Lutro0's double wire guide.

Thanks for the advice!
Would something like a ULN2803 work for the driver? https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/IC/uln2803a.pdf

And something like this for the dc-dc step up?
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter-Adjustable-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B00J03PBW0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468354392&sr=8-5&keywords=step+up+converter

I think you might need an electrician. To me, it sounds like something is shorting the coax with the electrical outlet. You indicated when he tugged on the coax, a breaker tripped.
Right there, that set off flags as I was reading it. The problem may not be in the outlet right next to where he was working, but somewhere up the line from there.

I would start with a voltage tester like this
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=lp_14244481_1_12?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1487627980&sr=1-12
and go from there.

If the problem is electrical, comcast wont touch it (even if they caused it, but good luck proving that).

You could buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3300-Hands-free-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B001O1X65A/ref=lp_15707471_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1406769985&sr=1-2 for much cheaper than one of those special ohm readers. I used to use one when rebuilding protank coils with cotton.

I eventually got tired of rebuilding them and recently purchased an aspire nautilus mini. Honestly, the hype is justified. This thing is better than anything I've rebuilt in the protanks.

>(Also, in the schematic, the LED being on will not indicate that the battery is charging, simply that power is connected)

Yeah that's all I care about.

Here's the BMS

Here's the boost converter I was going to use... until I fried the POT on it - lol. My 3A power supply must be slightly >3A. I've got some POTs on order, I'll fix it tomorrow, and use a 2.5A power supply instead. Gotta love the smell of magic smoke in the morning.

I guess I could just get a 13v power supply instead but they're not easy to find, so, 16v and a buck converter?

>Most BMS/battery chargers will have an output that indicate when they are charging.

Is that what the 2 terminals with the diode symbol are for between P+ and P- maybe?

Edit: A diagram has been added to the ablum. https://imgur.com/iWlRv3C

My latest portable induction heater. 1200 mah lipo with 2 amp micro usb balance charging. Pressing the button activates the induction module and displays the current battery voltage so you know when to charge. The overall dimensions are 4.75" x 3.5" x 1.75". I'm still waiting on glass tubing in the right diameter, in the meantime I've been using an 18mm stem with a piece of cork in the bottom. Now that I've got the internal dimensions, i can make a wood enclosure. This plastic was a pain to cut, and cracked in a few places.

Here are the parts i used:

3S Lipo Battery - $6.82 (I used a 1200 mah battery, but this will work and is pretty cheap)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVQ8T6I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Induction Heating Module - $14.84

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C71XKZ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Micro USB DC-DC Boost Converter - $1.73 each

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CNQPN94/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3S 12V 10A Lithium Battery Protection/Balancing board - $2.80 each

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077ZY7Z3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Digital Voltage Meter - $2.40 each

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YALV0NG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

IRLB3034 N Channel Mosfet - 5.72

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HKHW9UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527532137&sr=8-1

15K Ohm resistors - $0.65 each

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185FIPIA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527532172&sr=8-3

Switch - $5.11

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q84P8C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Container - $1.25 each

Purchased at Target, can't find a link.

Total - ~$41.34

I recently got this one and when I test coils before I mount them on my IGO-L, I get crazy fluctuations in my readings for an estimated 1.0 Ohm coil, I get readins of 300 Ohms to 1 Ohm) and, if it does settle at all, it;s widely inaccurate.

My buddy told me that the test lead's cables are probably shoddy and I'm probably never going to get a good reading for low Ohm coils with a cheapy meter like this.

I'm thinking now of going with one of those Ohm Readers with 501 connectors right on the unit like this. even though I had the idea of having a "single-purpose tool", I guess I can use it as a stable "work base" while I'm building as well. Any opinions?

As for outlets: buy one of these outlet testers. The diagnostic lights will tell you exactly what you are dealing with. If your outlets are 3 prong but not grounded that is not a good situation and how to fix it depends on many variables (Basement vs crawlspace vs slab, attic access, are the boxes grounded but not the outlets). At least the diagnostics will tell you enough to know what you are dealing with and if you need an electrician.

As for checking breakers, I would suggest turning on all the lights in the house. Go to the breaker box, turn each breaker off, one at a time and make sure the label in the box matches what actually turns off in the house. Fixing the labels now might save you a hour in the dark in the future.

Similarly, look at all your plumbing shutoffs. Make sure they are not leaking. Turn each faucet on first hot, then cold, then close the shutoff in the basement and/or under the sink. Label ones you find in the basement, hot vs cold and what room/rooms they feed. Again this tells you if you might need a plumber (or DIY) to resolve some bad shutoffs (gate valves >15yrs old should not be trusted) and can help if(when) you have a serious leak in the future.

So long as you don't use any flimsy 2-prong lamp extensions anywhere, you will be in good shape. Use a quality 12 gauge three-prong extension cord. I'd suggest you put a 15A power strip inside the tent. Zip-tie it to one of the vertical poles so it's up off the floor and unlikely to get wet when watering.

Additionally, if you would like to easily check the receptacle you are using for proper polarity/grounding/safety, you can test it with one of these tester devices.

I actually have a simple little led attached to two wires. You place the wires on black and white and the led lights up if the wire is hot.

If you search amazon for "Electrical tester" you'll get a ton of results for things like this. I use two, the multimeter mentioned by /u/fengshui and something like this little LED tester (https://www.amazon.com/Extech-ET25-Neon-Voltage-Tester/dp/B000X3LT4K) for quick checks to see if I have power flowing. (Mine came with a set of electrical pliers and screw drivers I got at Lowes for like $20.)

Try to buy cheap junk from Walmart or Amazon until you know exactly what you want. You don't need a $60 pair of pliers or a $300 drill when you're learning.

• Safety glasses
  
  
• Linesman pliers (high leverage pliers that can also cut wires)
  
  
• Diagonal cutting pliers (wire cutters)
  
  
• Long reach needle nose pliers
  
  
• Wire strippers.
  
  
• 25 foot tape measure
  
  
• Hammer
  
  
• Multimeter that can check voltage and resistance. It doesn't need to be accurate.
  
  
• Receptacle tester that looks like this
  
  
• No contact voltage tester like this
  
  
• A magnetic dish for holding screws. Seriously. Losing screws is not fun. A big magnet can also be useful if you drop a bunch of screws or nails on the floor.
  
  
• Ziplock bags. I always end up needing bags for things. A small bag full of clean napkins is a great thing to have.
  
  
• Knife with a sheepsfoot blade like this
  
  
• Tool box. Get one that is big and cheap. I paid $10 for mine and it holds everything listed above.

Personally I am going to try and avoid parts for his build because of not knowing exactly what he has.

You could get him zip ties, velcro strips, tool kit (just search computer tool kit on amazon), usb drive, DAC/AMP, nice router, custom mouse pad, nice pair of head phones, power supply tester, Electricity Usage Monitor, Electric Duster, Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol),... I could keep on going but I think you get the idea. Hopefully when you post your build I'll come back to edit my comment.

This is probably part of the issue.

Do you have a voltage meter?

You could try connecting the ground lug of the receiver to the ground pin at the wall socket. Or convert the receiver to 3 pin plug.

It would be good to verify with an outlet tester that everything is wired correctly (they are supper cheap) https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

Many people will disagree with me, and with valid reasons. But if the outlet is wired correctly, there really isn't anything wrong with removing the ground pin from the sub.

You would obviously want to use a GFCI outlet for all that equipment.

Ground loops and the really difficult stuff, and sometimes it is actually an engineer defect in the equipment.

That PDF file recommend in the other comment is very good, and you should read it even if most of it seems advanced. They do a good job of explaining the concepts.


Let me know if you have specific questions about what to measure.

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

That's what I use, personally. It makes it fairly easy to test a supply since it will turn red and start beeping furiously if you are not getting enough juice. I don't test a ton of power supplies, so I can't speak to bulk usage/lifespan, but it has been great for my needs.

You're still going to want to make sure nothing is live even after shutting breakers off. Definitely get one of these, lol. I've learned not to trust any of the electrical work in my house.

The most useful thing you could possibly buy him is a component identifier. They are cheap and immensely useful and he probably doesn't have one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Br3L1B80ow

https://www.amazon.com/Mega328-Transistor-Resistor-Capacitor-Mosfet/dp/B01H6QKVOU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

Voltmeters, can be integrated into your shell, too.

[Ebay, cheaper and you get more] (http://m.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-Mini-Blue-DC-0-30V-LED-Panel-Voltmeter-3-Digital-Display-Voltage-Meter-/281478533527?nav=SEARCH)

Amazon, more expensive but you can feel special. Probably a bit higher quality, different dimensions too.

They are both pretty compact too. Just positive/test and ground leads to wire into your circuit.

Edit: Some guy named /u/Duke_Wintermaul is stalking the subreddit too. Legend has it, he sells voltmeters for $4 each, but no one knows...

I'm not an electrition, so this may not be a perfect explanation. but the ground pin gives your device a way to discharge static electricity or overvoltage by giving the electricity a way to "escape" from the system. Remember the First Law of Thermodynamics:

> Energy cannot be created or destoyed, only transfered.

So if you want to deal with a voltage spike, you can't just eliminate that electiricity. It has to be transfered, converted, or similar. In the case of modern homes, it is transfered into the earth via a third ground wire. Ordinarilly the path of least resistance will be your electronics, and power will flow through that instead of the ground wire. In an overloaded circuit that path of least resistance should be the ground. So it effectively works as a primitive form of voltage control.

From this site

>A surge protector used at a non-grounded receptacle is a glorified extension cord, and provides no additional protection, only a false sense of protection.

Something like this outlet tester will let you know if your house is wired up correctly or not. Just because an outlet has 3 pins doesn't mean that third pin is necessarily connected to anything.

>If an outlet isn't grounded, what can it do to your gear

Overcharge and destroy it. Possible fire risk.

For something that's off, it generally won't matter, so don't freak out if your vacuume or toaster only has a two-prong outlet. But for something you might use in a storm and that uses a substantial amount of electricity (i.e. a computer, air conditioner or heater), or that is particularly sensitive, that ground wire is important.

You'll find most modern TVs and light fixtures don't have a third prong. I am not 100% sure why but I assume it's because they have such a low power draw.

>and how would one go about addressing that?

The only real way is to hire an electrition, rewire your outlets yourself (be safe! Turn off your circuit breakers first!) or choose a different, grounded outlet. There's no quick fix or adapter to "ground" an outlet that I know of, at least not that are safe and to code.

You'll find

I haven't done a ceiling fan before but I imagine the hardest part is just physically holding the fan (or is it just a mounting bracket?) up while you wire it up. Might need a 2nd set of hands for that. But the wiring itself should be just as simple as the outlet I just did.

These tools gave me a lot of confidence. (Don't worry, cheaper versions exist.) The pen is used to identify switches/wires/fixtures that have electricity flowing to them. The plug-in one tells you if any of the wires are hooked up incorrectly, although that wouldn't help you with a ceiling fan. Apparently the previous homeowner didn't have these because a couple outlets have the hot and neutrals reversed. I still need to re-wire those.

The First thing you should do when having these types of issues, is reduce your hardware down to just the core parts needed to boot the system.

1. Remove any unnecessary add-in cards, take out all memory, except one stick.
   
   
2. All you should have in the system is, Power Supply, Motherboard, 1 stick of Ram, CPU+cooler, and Hard drive.
   
   
3. If the Problem still occurs try a different stick of Ram.
   
   
4. If the problem still persists, try re-seating your CPU.
   
   
5. If the problem still persists, replace your power supply.
   
   
6. If you replace the PSU, and you still have the issue, then its your motherboard.
   
   Pro-Tip* It really sounds like it's your PSU, but if you want to truly rule it out, you have to use process of elimination, unless you have a power supply tester, which has saved me many headaches.

Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?

You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.

You can buy a little device very cheaply to tell you if three-prong outlets are grounded. If they're probably not even grounded the lazy way (to the outlet box) and simply have a wire missing, you could repair this yourself for <$10.

Obviously two-prong outlets will not be grounded. That's a convenience issue, but not a safety issue. The lack of GFI outlets in the kitchen (or bath, or anywhere near water) could be a safety issue, and that would be the one thing I think it'd be reasonable to ask the landlord to do. GFI outlets are ~$10 apiece and those can safely be grounded to their box as well.

I also strongly recommend a receptacle tester. Good for quick checks like OP is talking about. It also indicates any wiring faults.

I've only had to repair an outlet a few times but this method is pretty safe:

Flip the breakers for the outlets in the room (do NOT trust the labels on a breaker box, lazy contractors often fail to label properly), then take an outlet tester and plug it into both outlets on the one you're working on AND a neighboring outlet. If it doesn't light up, you're good to start opening up the outlet.

Triple-check that the wiring is done right when you're finished and cable nuts/clamps fully secure all wires then power back on the breaker. Test again with an outlet tester before plugging in any electronics. IMMEDIATELY flip off the breaker again if the tester does not show the correct led light set.

The important part of doing any home repairs is never assume that something is off, or that there's no juice going to that wire. Check always anyway. 10 seconds of testing saves 10 days in a hospital.

Testing the outlet is easy, I think something like this would work?

Power Gear 3-Wire Receptacle Tester

50542 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6CmHzb4P7QZQV

That's perfectly safe to use.

As for risk to yourself, I'm not an electrician so I can't speak authoritatively to any additional risk from an ungrounded amp. I'm pretty sure there is some added risk though. Low, but still.

> Firstly, that ground wire must be sufficiently large

I am guessing I will have to measure the thickness of it with a caliper.

In terms of checking all the outlets to find which ones are truly grounded, would I use a tool like this?

You're certain the fan is on same breaker? In my place, most of the breakers were labeled correctly, but i had a couple of outlets and switches that were tied to other breakers. Also, mine has switches and outlets separate. I believe I have upstairs outlets, upstairs lights, downstairs outlets, downstairs lights. I'm not sure what the norm is for this, but getting a little klein pen tester and tying your rooms/fixtures to their actual breakers in a google doc will be really helpful now and in the future.

The top GPU is probably toast, and some component that we can't see probably fried. Whether or not it was due to the PSU, or just the GPU going out, I don't know.

I'd get a PSU tester (Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ ) to see if the PSU is still good before putting it into any rig again.

Morning folks. Berc here with your "I want to mech up as cheaply as humanly possible!" equipment list.

The nemesis mechanical mod! $25 dollars

Sony 30amp VTC4's! You can find these cheaper on illumination supply but they run out really fucking quick

The classic Igo-W! A three post rebuilding atomizer!

The fantastic Nitecore i2 intellicharger

A cheap multi-meter

Some kanthal wire, preferably in the 32g range for beginners

Some organic cotton, preferably in cotton ball form

MOTHAFUCKIN BATTERY SAFETY!

Read up and learn on the sub about building practices and youlle be good to go! Buy some killer juice and vape until your ventricles explode!

If you have a pin remover (makeshift or actual) and the pinouts its a pretty simple process. Just be sure to triple check your work before plugging it into actual hardware. PSU testers (like the TT Dr power ii) are handy for that.

> So what's your solution then? Telling people those things are flawed and don't use them while not providing something better is exactly like telling them not to use anything at all and just tempt fate.
> I've been going though a renovation for all of 2016 and used one of those to double check any electrical I mess with. It has saved me many times and continues to do so. While I don't rely on that one thing completely, it is part of the process I use to know if it is hot or not.
> Also, if the whole thing is because when the batteries get low they only work 25%, then make sure there are good batteries in it!

Use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Extech-ET25-Neon-Voltage-Tester/dp/B000X3LT4K/ref=lp_14244481_1_9?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1483985988&sr=1-9

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Voltage-Tester-ET50/202498056

If you are curious about outlets and want to safely check them to see if they are set up properly, buy one of these or an equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

Should be available at most hardware stores also. Not sure if they have these for other non american outlet types

Well that should rule that out unless they screwed up the wiring. If you want to be 100% sure you can always grab a outlet tester.

Otherwise it sounds like you just have some really really bad luck and I hope they'll get their heads together and fix it for you as they should have just sent you a new unit after the 2nd time.

> TLDR: Get a multimeter and test the wires yourself.

Or at a minimum get something like this Non-Contact Voltage Tester. I find it much easier when working in tight spaces.

>an electrical safety tester

Is that like a Klein Non-Contact Voltage Tester to see if the circuit is still hot/energized?

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/

An outlet tester jammed into the existing outlet might be a good idea. It can help diagnose WTF is going on inside that box. I know enough to diagnose that and get things straight, not sure if OP is in the same situation. I definitely recommend grabbing some white/black colored tape to mark the wire if OP is comfortable IDing the wiring. Dealt with cloth wire where I live, I feel the pain. 100% agree, pigtails to the outlets and wrap tape around the terminal screws to minimize risk of shorts. Tape is cheap.

Thanks man, I misunderstood the schematic. How would you feel about using the following:

• Small solenoid
  
  
• Boost Converter
  
  
• NPN Transistor
  
  To be honest I don't know if that's the right transistor to use, I kinda ballparked on the specs. And I guess it would need a resistor too?
  
  Here's my schematic: http://imgur.com/a/YDZQG

Hate to be that guy but you should invest in a multimeter with a diode tester.

I can also suggest getting a MEGA328 based component tester. It's a godsend!

https://www.amazon.com/Mega328-Transistor-Resistor-Capacitor-Mosfet/dp/B01H6QKVOU/

I use a Dr. Power II and it does a great job.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493684045&sr=8-1&keywords=dr+power+ii

yeah pretty much. any tester will do but id recommend getting something like this as there wont be any confusion if the power supply is bad

Something like this could easily be wired into a recepticle providing power to a server.

I was using the power company merely as an example of how power consumption is measured over time.

Off topic but maybe useful https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA?psc=1

I'm sorry for your situation. Check out renogy.com, they are one of the best DIY solar retailers around IMO. Their sales and technical support is also excellent -- I recommend live chatting or calling them to discuss your needs.

Here is a 100W folding suitcase kit. You would only need a 12V battery and 12V inverter to complete it.

This inverter is 500W, pure-sine wave (you want to avoid modified sine) and includes cables to connect to the battery. I would not go higher than 500W on the inverter since the higher the wattage, the higher the self-consumption.

A car battery will work if you cannot obtain a deep cycle but they have to be very careful to not discharge it too deeply (no more than 20% DOD/12.5V for conventional flooded battery) or they will destroy it quickly.

You will also have to educate them on electrical safety and how to operate an off-grid system. You may want to send them a small digital voltmeter display and print out a 12V state of charge table for them to reference (like this one) to avoid deep discharging.

PM me if you have any more questions.

Can't go wrong with a Klein: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-1-Contact-Voltage/dp/B001UAHZAM

It's pretty much the gold standard, at least for homeowners. But every electrician I've ever had over also uses them.

Use one of these, I might also recommend opening one or two outlets with the power off to make sure it's not a bootleg ground.


https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

If this is your first foray into installing electrical switches, make sure you have neutral wiring in your home and pick up yourself a voltage tester like below:

Klein Tools NCVT-3 Non-Contact Voltage Tester with Flashlight Klein Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJQ9ZE4/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_SyWeAbH1D7BER via @amazon

Exactly! $10 could save your life!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N99D3MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EwbDybRX4XH6R

Buy a computer power supply tester. I have a Thermaltake brand.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO

You don't need to spend that much, there are cheaper ones out there. I got it on sale, years ago. It eliminates the "shotgun method" of troubleshooting where you are testing with known good parts.

Well, there are PSU testers like https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO

Just my 2 cents, I got this one that also has a flashlight and I have been more than happy with it. That other, more popular, one from Klein I have personally had fail on me.

But regardless of which one, using a non-contact voltage tester before you go touching anything is a bit of insurance everyone should use.

This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:

​

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection

​

These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K7XMGQ/

​

This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU/

​

And this is the tester that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW/

​

I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)

something like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J03PBW0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MUT4ZE6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2PMIWMSUTAYGS
??

This look good? https://www.amazon.com/Non-Contact-Adjustable-Sensitivity-Flashlight-12V-1000V/dp/B07N3R74QQ/ref=sr_1_7?crid=3E2UODV4HLXQO&keywords=voltage+detector&qid=1566831392&s=gateway&sprefix=voltage+de%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-7

The bigger issue is what's in the wall behind the outlets. Two-prong outlets are connected to hot and neutral wires only. Three-prong outlets are connected to hot, neutral, and ground wires (contained in a single cable). Changing the outlet won't help, other than giving something three-prong plugs will fit into. The wiring in the walls would need to be replaced, which could be an expensive proposition. I'd also check those kitchen outlets to see if they're actually grounded. It would be unusual for part of an apartment to get rewired and not the whole thing. This type of device will answer that question quickly: http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_3

With the amount of power you got running out of your panel, I'm surprised you didn't just put in a simple submeter like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Meter-100A-Volt-3-Wire/dp/B00GMZRXE8

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Electrical-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?keywords=fluke+multimeter&qid=1567090794&s=gateway&sprefix=fluke&sr=8-21


This style of meter is pretty convenient. You can put one of the probes so it sits out of the meter so you can hold the meter while also testing instead of having to set the meter on something or have someone hold it

You don't need an end with a hot stick. It will tell you if it's not or not through the insulation.

Edit: if yours won't do that, here is a really good deal on a stick and receptacle tester combo.

Outlet testers are cheap and effective.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=55627270763&hvadid=274723474509&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1022653&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12869203484087416750&hvtargid=kwd-300397334292&keywords=outlet+tester&qid=1550862896&s=gateway&sr=8-5&tag=hydsma-20

Run, don't walk, to your nearest home depot / lowes and buy an outlet tester for 5-6 dollars. Should look like this

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

It's fairly simple to use, plug it in, see what lights come on and go from there. I'm almost willing to put money on your outlets not being properly grounded and if that's the case, there are probably more. You'll want to test the outlets in and around your house paying particular attention to any area with water in it (bathroom, kitchen, outside).

The UPS won't provide a ground if there's not a ground on the outlet.

Basically you want any voltmeter that works with your expected voltages that you can fit into the shell. That's pretty much it. I use these but they're not the only choice.

Me thinks one of these would be a good idea

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_5LGEzb90DQ3QT a receptacle tester.

In these scenarios, the next step I go to is testing the power supply.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

You can test and prove every cable/connector in the entire system. Also, have you taken a good flash light and checked all of the capacitors on the motherboard to verify that none are leaking/bulging?

• multimeter of some form (clamp current meters are even better)
  
• One of these
  
• headlamp
  
• hard hat with ratchet, high vis vest that's comfortable
  

One of these might be helpful to you:

Power Gear 50542 3-Wire Receptacle Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y9hYxbPG7ZZG1

Get a $5 outlet tester.

http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA

Worth its weight in gold. You'll be surprised how often it comes in handy - just testing if an outlet is live, e.g.

Naw, just get one of these. Way easier and will tell you about upstream issues.

Always nice to have one of these around for a quick check.

A psu tester is another option and is probably going to be easier to use.

> If you had someone come to your house to install a big-screen TV, would you expect them to check the outlets to make sure they were wired correctly?

If the installer was using an existing outlet, I would expect a 3 second check with one of these. The cost-benefit for those three seconds of work are enormous, even if it's not the installer's fault.

As long as you're not exceeding 2000+ watts in the same room, you'll likely be fine as most circuits in the US have 15-20amp breakers/fuses.

No real danger of a blackout or brown out, the computer will just shut off. You could always pick up a UPS backup if you're worried about that.

If you live in a place that has lightning I would recommend a good surge protector, not just a power strip.

Only possible super rare thing I've seen to worry about with electricity and computers is if you have a computer on one outlet and you connect HDMI or similar to a TV that's plugged into another circuit and if there's an issue with wiring in your house/apt it could burn things out. I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398086820&sr=1-1&keywords=receptacle+tester to test circuits to be sure :P

One of these will help a lot.

https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Protection-Klein-Tools-NCVT-2/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=electric+tester+pen&qid=1563599399&s=gateway&sprefix=electric+tes&sr=8-3

Or a standard multimeter.

Disclaimer: I have no idea what kind of heat pump this is, nor do I really know too much about HVAC systems. I'm guessing this unit uses electricity to heat your house. Most heating units in my area are natural gas, so I'm making some assumptions here.

First thing I would do is throw a clamp ammeter around the unit's feeders. Just to rule out other heavy draws and you can also get a general idea just how much power each circuit is pulling. Something like this would work:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-T5-600-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1421884535&sr=8-12&keywords=fluke+amp+clamp

Outside of that, its hard for me to really help you without knowing exactly what the unit's specifications are. Maybe you just have a really large heater and really, really lousy insulation in your home. I just don't know. One thing is for sure, that is a very big electrical bill.

That’s one way.

I have a no contact voltage probe that I use to make sure the power is cut. Like this.

Klein Tools NCVT-1 Non-Contact Voltage Tester with Low Battery Indicator and Auto Shutdown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vP8ADbJCDXF7M

They are pretty inexpensive and handy to have.

In addition to the other two suggestions regarding ground loops, make sure your amps are plugged into two different wall sockets.

You may also want to get a cheap outlet tester just to test things out.

Assuming you're doing basic AC electrical work, then pick up a non-contact voltage detector. It helps take the guess work out of figuring out if a box or wire is live.

your local hardware store will have a non-contact voltage tester like this one you could jerry-rig a tester, or a couple other less than safe ways to do it, but just spend the $10 on a cheap non-contact tester.

If the charger and the FC are saying ~15.3, I'd assume the multimeter is incorrect (though it's possible you just got a bad connection, the batteries in the meter are dying, etc.)

​

The only way I know to check if a meter is out of cal is to check it against a known source.

​

I have about 6 of these little voltage displays with XT-60's soldered to them to use as quick voltage testers. I only have so many because I lose them, but it does give me peace of mind being able to test the same battery with multiple meters and see the same voltage come up every time.

Any hardware store carries something like this for $10 or less. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

Like one of these guys?

You can buy an outlet tester like this to check.

If your surge protector has a 'grounded' indicator that isn't lit, that likely means the outlet it's plugged into isn't grounded. So plugging the computer into the wall won't ground it either.

You can use something like this to test your outlets. You just plug it in to the outlet, look at how it lights up, and reference that to what it says on the label.

Alternatively, you can just take your surge protector and plug it into different outlets until you find one that's grounded, and use that one.

I don't own one.

Would something like this work - https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Protection-Klein-Tools-NCVT-2/dp/B004FXJOQO/

I like Corsair PSU the most. JMHO

Before you spend that much money think of investing in a PSU tester. I have, this is my latest arrival.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO

Once you've checked to see that the gas to the appliance is on...

Have you tried working the oven or broiler (if it has one)?

It sounds like it could be a gas valve issue with the stove/oven itself.

Further: You may want to consider testing the outlet that it's plugged in to with a receptacle tester. If the polarity is reversed on the outlet, the gas valve may not open, which is a safety feature. Sounds weird, but I've run in to that issue a handful of times.

Edit: Added further info.

Well there's PSU testers you can buy for that purpose. Other than that I am unsure short of putting it into an entirely different computer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F778JO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=101E02BC34IN0&coliid=IRL5JWJC1GMC0

I would strip it down to the bare minimum (cpu, cpu fan, 1 stick of ram) and see if it powers on. If it does then you know it's one of the 'extras'. If it doesn't then 90%+ it's the PSU.

Typically as other people have stated generators run only the necessary systems. Usually only the refrigerator is considered a needed appliance in the backup generator world.


Not HVAC related but just because the outlet in the box is 3 prong doesn't mean it is actually a grounded outlet. If this is a major point for you then it'd be worth getting that checked out. A simple outlet tester will indicate if new wiring or wiring with a ground was actually run.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA?pc_redir=1395427616&robot_redir=1

Its not that difficult. As long as you have a clear understanding of the dangers, breakers, and know the purpose load/line/neutral/ground wires then you will be able to do this no problem.

Also, get yourself a non-contact voltage tester like this: https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B001UAHZAM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1484920204&sr=1-1&keywords=electrical%2Bline%2Btester&th=1

The green screw is irrelevant unless the ground wire is connected. You have to figure out which is which.

An outlet tester will help; connect each wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA

Another thing about the outlets would be checking to make sure the three-prong ones are actually grounded. Socket testers are cheap, or you may already have a power strip with a ground light.

You can chase where they go with one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO

Make sure the switch is on.

Have the electrician install one of these inline with the charger:

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Meter-100A-Volt-3-Wire/dp/B00GMZRXE8/

I put one in my garage as I was curious and wanted to seperate out my charging from the rest of my electric bill. 4613 kWHr since April 2, 2015

Good call. I just ordered one of these LCD voltage gauges will install with a momentary switch so I can see my power. I haven't gotten it low enough to cut out.

Well I was referring to one of these. Besides if you could plug OP's "finder" into the socket for a stove/drier you have other issues. Those should be using a 3 or 4-prong 240V outlet (in the USA anyhow).

I'd just go get one of these guys if I had no other test equipment available.

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

They're $5-10 at pretty much any hardware store.

Grab an outlet tester. First thing is, it will test the outlet in the moment. But, if you leave it plugged in, you can have a constant visual indicator if the outlet is working (there's a light on it).

But yeah, replace the outlet.

Links: https://www.homedepot.com/c/how_to_install_a_receptacle_HT_PG_EL

https://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/how-to-replace-an-ugly-old-electrical-outlet/

For anyone asking here's the parts I added so far, I don't even know what chassis or make it is, I'm about to start upgrading the a arms and adjustable so I'll make another post with an picture of the chassis with no body and link it here, maybe some one can tell me what I got, I know its roughly 10 years old so let's see. For now though here is what I got in it.


Volt meter -

DROK 090552 Mini 0.28" Digital Voltage Tester Voltmeter DC 0~~100V Volt Meter 3.0-30V Power Battery Monitoring Gauge Blue LED Panel Display~ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C58JGE6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vbwhDbSE53V9J

2s 50c 5400mh lipo

The green rims -

Hobbypark 4pcs-Pack 26mm Width RC Rubber Tires Plastic Wheel Rims 12mm Hub Mount for Redcat HSP 1:10th On Road Car Touring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXDCQ1F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cewhDb4685PQQ

Fpv set up :) -

FPV Receiver, EACHINE ROTG01 UVC OTG 5.8G 150CH Full Channel FPV Receiver for Android Mobile Phone Tablet Smartphone (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VZYLYH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-ewhDbGQ3V7CX

And

Wolfwhoop WT03 Micro FPV AIO 600TVL Camera 5.8G 25mW/50mW/200mW Adjustable Transmitter with Cloverleaf Antenna for Mini Aircraft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XB2ZRBP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SewhDbK7WQRM4

The 72 body -

VATERRA 1972 Chevy C10 On Road... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BPEJYBA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

New shocks -

Yeah Racing Shock-Gear 55mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J2MFF9S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The headlights -

MOHERO 2 LEDs Angel Eyes & Demon... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784QDRL3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

> If the other circuits have a ground, there's just a wire come loose somewhere, which would not be difficult to track down for an electrician.

Not necessarily. They could have replaced some of the outlets with grounds, and didn't have access to a ground in this outlet for some reason or another.

OP definitely needs to let management handle this. Best you can do is get an outlet tester and see if you have another grounded outlet accessible.

Remind maintenance that if the outlet is not grounded, it should be either a 2-prong outlet, or have GFCI protection in order to meet NEC.

These are not optional. I carry one in my gig bag ( as a player ) because I do not want to die:
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

It's possible. Go to a hardware store and buy one of these and check to see if the outlets are grounded. Just because the outlet is 3 prong doesn't necessarily mean the outlet is grounded. Also check to make sure nothing in your chain has the ground prong broken off, like a power strip or something before it gets to the wall.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

If you would rather go the Amazon route here is on.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/

A $32 Dr. Power II will pay for itself if you do much building or custom cables. Learned this the hard way as well.

If I understand correctly, there's a chance that blackened bit is keeping that side of the connection to the dryer from being a good connection. (that black sooty carbon is a decent insulation when you don't want it to be). without pictures, it's hard to tell if the cord has problems, but that's where I would look first.

Related for others, do they make a receptacle tester for the 4 prong outlets? I'm thinking something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

Yeah, it’s a lot. I got a T5600. I do commercial maintenance, which includes electrical work, but I’m am not an electrician.

Fluke T5600 Electrical Voltage, Continuity and Current Tester
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rJQkDbAQ57VWN

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Meter-100A-Volt-3-Wire/dp/B00GMZRXE8 (found this from a quick Google search, not sure if it fits the criteria, but you get the idea)

With one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA

Also, same way as above could work, test the spike outside against the ground upstairs to see if they are connected. Alternatively pull the outlet out on the 2nd floor, should see a green or bare wire attached the frame of the outlet/green screw.

Also in your electrical panel you will see the grounding bar which would lead to a spike like in this picture..


Not recommending you do this if you are not comfortable w/ electrical work. Breaker should be off before you open up an outlet and tested before you touch. The panel should be locked off and only fully opened by a professional.

I am not an electrician, nor am I experienced with home wiring.

You can buy a tester for your outlets. That said, it would probably be more prudent to get an electrician in. You're going to need to call one anyway.

Anyway, the 120V/240V/0V thing refers to the split-phase power delivery system common in North America. In this system you have two hot wires, instead of just one. One of those hot wires is the inverse voltage of the other (so if we say that ground is 0V, then when the first hot wire is at 120V, the other hot wire is at -120V). If you connect ground to hot, you get a certain voltage (120V). If you connect the first hot to the second hot, you get double that voltage (240V).

As to what is happening in your case, I've no idea. In a proper wiring setup, the ground wire (and thus all things connected to the ground wire, like the case of an appliance, your junction boxes, etc.) are directly attached to a big metal thing stuck deep in the earth.

The Fluke T-5 is my go to for most stuff around the house. Does what it sounds like you are looking for. Easy to use, takes abuse. It’s also my go to at work unless I need to really get into stuff. Then I grab a bigger Fluke.

You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.

Here are things from my wishlist (past and present)

Wera Screwdrivers
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085NTQJK/

Oscillating blade set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0109SELWA/

Clamp multimeter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/

Kreg Jig Jr.:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/

Angled Long Nose Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VSS4S/

Groove Lock Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FK1R0W/

11 ft wifi endoscope:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

non contact voltage tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/

claw nail puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/

Workmate portable work bench:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000077CQ0/

Cable snake fish tape:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BP7WBO/

9 Outlet metal power bar:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F8ZQY5M/

Spade drill bit set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00099E7WE/

36" bubble level:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKMWMO/

You might also want to check the outlet for a ground fault. There is an inexpensive device you can get at the hardware store, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-Receptacle-Improper-Indicator/dp/B002LZTKIA

In my line of work, these are the bare minimum.

http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-T5-600-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU

This might be overkill for a person who doesn't use it on a daily basis but this is what most electricians I know use: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Electrical-Voltage-Continuity-Current/dp/B0006Z3GZU/

there is a t5-600, same tester but does up to 600volts instead of 1000. (Which you wont need) its $90 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006Z3GZU/ref=twister_B06W57QS6F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Measure the voltage. Either use an inline volt meter, pull the battery out and test it with a multimeter or pop it in a charger that shows the battery voltage.

Maybe ask him if he has any of these, they're more specialty tools that not every starter has, but can really come in handy:

lumex (romex) strippers: amazon.ca

tap: kleintools.com

tick tester: amazon.ca

9/16 nut driver (used for installing the ever-popular "dome light"): homedepot.com

plug tester: amazon.ca

Your home may be universally wired incorrectly...

Get one of these things at the hardware store and check: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA

That's the cheapo version; spend the extra couple bucks and get the GE model which will last forever.

Qbox, cable checker, XLR barrels [F-F,M-M,Phase reverse, -20&-50db pads, ground lift, ISO barrel], AC Wiring Tester, XLR Y's, 1/4 male to XLR-F and M, 1/8" to rca/xlr/1/4, NL4&NL8 barrels. Batteries, and more batteries.

Those seem to be my essentials, and get used the most. Probably forgetting something.

Upvote for having a $5 tester. Everyone should have one.

Also if the house is pre-1960s, get this little gizmo and test for grounded outlets. Three-pronged outlets do NOT automatically mean they're grounded. It doesn't necessarily mean you need to rewire the house or anything, but it's something to be aware of.

Immediately tomorrow, go to Harbor Freight, or Fry's, or Amazon.com, or wherever and buy a 3-prong electrical receptacle tester like this, for example, and check your outlets. Then hire an electrician to come in an fix them.

Or just skip the tester, and get the electrician in before someone dies.

Here is the mobile version of your link

You could walk around the house and point a non contact voltage tester at everything. Recommendation.
It does high and low voltage - let me know if it picks up any ghosts as well, I might go on a journey with mine.

From one DIYer to another, if you don't already have one of these, you should get one.

Shut the power off at the breaker, pull the switch out and take a picture. Also this before you do anything.

You don't need to go all out with a Fluke, just get a non-contact voltage tester for quick double-checking and a multimeter for all-around use.

I think every engineer who works around electricity needs one of these: Klein non contact voltage tester.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO

Get yourself a voltage tester and you can trace the outage back to the source. Start with the fixture, then work your way back.

Its basically just a voltage detector.

https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Protection-Klein-Tools-NCVT-2/dp/B004FXJOQO

Just yesterday I fixed a light strand that was half out by using one of these:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FXJOQO, a current detector that I already owned.

A working, turned-on bulb will have current on both sides. A busted bulb will have current on only one side.

You plug the cables in to the tester, so effectively testing both.
Something like this.

This is what he means.

It's about 30 bucks and will make sure a faulty cable pinout will only blow a PSU (worst case) rather then your whole system.

Check out /r/pcsleeving for all your tutorial needs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005F778JO?cache=1036e9f35ec71cb01e3d3f2436b192cb&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1407733518&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I haven't tried it, but if your charger is wired single phase, here's another way.. If it's 3 phase, the meters are much more expensive. Just wire it between the panel and the charger.