(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best cat litter accessories

Oh! Oh! If you can't tell by my username, I can help here!

First of all, based on the $85 fee I'm assuming you're adopting adult cats? Thank you so much! Adult cats take forever to find their furever homes. If they're kittens THANK YOU for adopting them in pairs! It's more important than most people think! But no matter what, the one time fee means that you're choosing to adopt instead of supporting a breeder. I thank you from the bottom of my heart for this! I foster kittens that are constantly coming and going, so I've gotten a pretty good list of cheap things that work well. Sorry in advance for the wall of text. If you need ANY help at all when it comes to anything cat related, please ask!

• Food - Make sure you give them whatever the shelter gives them even if you plan on transitioning. It's important that you do it slowly. Here is a good article about how to do it. I highly recommend not going cheap here. If you spend money on one thing, a good diet is where to spend it on! I recommend grain free and/or limited ingredient diets, but I'm not a vet so I'd talk to yours about specifics.
  
  • Food bowl: You wouldn't think a little bowl would be so damn expensive, but it is. I have a dozen or so of these bowls for the kittens since I use many at a time, but I'd recommend starting out with 4 and see how you do there. Basically have 4 bowls (two to give to each cat for food, and an extra 2 for when the dirty bowls are in the wash). Almost any bowl will work, including the ones you have, but if you were thinking of buying one of those $73.12 bowls because you think your cat needs it and it has a silicone bottom, don't. They're a huge waste of money.
    
• Litter/box: Skip all the weird stuff/scents to put in your litter box to get rid of the smell. Just get unscented litter and baking soda. Sprinkle the baking soda on the bottom of the box, fill half your litter, sprinkle some more, fill the rest of your litter. You will also want 2 litter boxes at a minimum. The general rule of thumb is a box per cat + an extra one. As for litter box, I love this one, and here looks like a cheaper and similar version. As for litter, I HIGHLY recommend clumping because non clumping is a nightmare (we need to use it for very small kittens since they can ingest the clumping and it can hurt them). I use petco's bulk litter and love it. If you have one near you, you can pick up a big bin and refill it as needed for a lower price. Here is the big bag of it, but I think a refill on a 30lb thing is 10 dollars?
  
• Scratcher: Cats need to scratch, and they'll do it if you provide them with a scratcher or if you provide them with your own furniture. I would recommend at least one of these for each cat, plus maybe a couple extra depending on how big your home is. I have these everywhere because of of my kitties loves using them as beds. Soft fluffy stuff? Not a chance. Hard cardboard? Now we're talking! He's weird, and one of your beauties may be too. This is the best value one I could find, but really any of them would work. I also like this one because it's bed shaped-ish so they can also lay in it.
  
• Vet care: Every year you'll need to get vaccines and preferably a checkup for each one of your cats. I know petco recently started doing a clinic day where they JUST the vaccines for something like 40 bucks or something, but that doesn't come with a checkup which I would recommend. I would ask your shelter about low cost vet clinics in your area, I'm sure they would know! I can't find a link where you can put in your zip code and get a list or I would link it :(
  
• Toys: This is probably the easiest category to overspend in so don't. There's a lot of fancy looking toys that are great, but your cat gets bored of them quickly and even the best ones will get destroyed. I highly recommend buying a few kinds of cheap toys and seeing what your cat likes. Then regularly replacing them so it's new and shiny! For toys that'll fit in a bag, I like to have a catnip bag that I put some catnip in with the toys. Every so often I'll take toys out of the bag and the cats lose their minds. If after they get bored they're still in good condition - back in the bag they go!
  
  • Sparkle balls: These become choking hazards really quick, but cats LOVE THEM. I just bought these and they seem to be holding up well. Just like the food, I wouldn't recommend going cheap on them. The good news though is that even the good ones are still pretty cheap! Your local pet store will usually have good quality ones of these as well. Just don't get those "100 sparkle balls for 2 dollars!" off amazon.
    
  • Multipack: I LOVE this pack because it has a little bit of everything to see what kitty likes. The only downside is that the tunnel is pretty small. That's perfect for my foster kittens, but not so much for an adult cat. If you get it and the tunnel is too small, donate it to your shelter! Something like this also gives you a cheap way to stock up on a variety of toys.
    
  • Cat Dancer: I buy these in bulk they're so amazing. The link I'm giving you currently has the price of $4.20, but on November 2nd another seller will have them back at stock for 2 bucks each. I wouldn't buy them at 4 dollars, but at 2 they're a steal. The company also has a thing where you can hook them onto your wall and cats will play with it while you're gone. I bought it but haven't set it up yet. Another thing I LOVE about this is that you can wrap them around something.
    
  • Fishing pole toy: I call all of these kinds of toys a fishing pole toy. It's essentially a stick with something dangling from it. Cats go CRAZY for them and this is a good and cheap one. I also stick the pole part in couch cushions or between the bed and box spring so it's dangling.
    
• Cat tower: Honestly, some cats love them, some cats don't. I would eventually get a cat tower (at least one), but don't let it stop you from adopting! Your local pet store will have tons, but I've seen some very happy people who got a massive crazy one for cheap off amazon. I have 4 (3 for my cats, one for the kitten room) that all get very loved but I honestly have no idea where I got them from or I'd link it to you!

> Deep down, I know they're not going to be happy, as they'll just say we aren't financially ready for one and go on and on about how much time and money will go into the pup.

Those concerns are not unjust - I am surprised you haven't brought up your intentions before if this was premeditated/you were on a waiting list for a while. The best way to 'break the news' is just to be honest about it and why you choose to do it. You do not need to be argumentative - if you have properly prepared and are ready for the responsibility, it is not a difficult conversation to have. You should have plenty of money saved up if this was properly planned (at least $1-3k, plus puppy & startup costs at a minimum) and should have your schedules work out at your respective jobs to ensure that you will be able to let the puppy out every couple hours as needed (or have lined up a friend/family member/dog walker to help you out).

Make sure you have all the key supplies on hand - particularly:

• A crate (that can be appropriately sized)
  
• Food and water bowls (stainless steel)
  
• 6' non-retractable leash
  
• Appropriately sized harness & collar
  
• Dog tag with name and contact information
  
• a few toys
  
• a bag of high value treats (freeze dried liver is usually a good standby, but string cheese or hot dogs could also be used - you can play around to discover what your pup REALLY loves when they come home).
  
• A clicker (Recommended for training, but not necessarily required)
  
• Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer
  
• 1 - 2 Puppy sized kongs
  
• Poop bags
  
  Avoid things like dog beds or soft bedding for the crate, at least initially. You don't want anything in the crate the puppy could pee on and push aside - you want to teach them to hold their bladder and to keep their space clean. Here is more information on crate training/house training.
  
  Training starts as soon as puppy arrives home. Start out with the basics like name/eye contact, potty training and crate training. You can also work on bite inhibition, capturing calmness, sit, & down.
  
  Be sure to get the pup to a vet within 48-72 hours of bringing them home for a wellness check (required by many puppy contracts and generally a good practice). You should also send in any AKC registration information, city licensing and start your pet insurance plan (if you choose to have one - it is highly recommended) within the first month or so of having puppy at home. Be in touch with your breeder and feel free to ask them questions - if you are working with a reputable breeder they should be happy to help you out if you have questions or concerns.
  
  As far as general care goes, there is a lot to cover - The Dog Training Wiki and Dog Training Textbook are good resources to get you started. Kikopup also has some really great training videos that are worth checking out. Here are some highlights:
  
  
• enroll in a puppy kindergarten/socialization class ASAP. You have a very short and critical socialization window from 8 to about 14 weeks. Work with a reputable club in your area (I don't recommend petsmart/petco). Here is a good starting point for finding a club near you.
  
  
• The rules as a cute little puppy need to be the same rules you expect of an adult dog. If you don't want him on the couch as an adult, he shouldn't be on it as a puppy - etc. Set your dog up for success by deciding what you expect of your dog and having everyone in the household be CONSISTENT with those rules.
  
  
• Training beyond kindergarten is also recommended - Aim for at least 1 or 2 additional obedience classes. I also would encourage you to try for the Canine Good Citizen by the end of your first year with your dog (especially if you want to do more advanced sport work as they get older).
  
  
• Avoid prolonged forced exercise (eg anything on leash). Walks should be kept short at first (5-10 minutes) and increased by 5-10 minutes for each additional month of age up to 30-45. Try to keep forced exercise on hard surfaces like pavement under 30minutes for the first year to help minimize any joint strain. Walk on grass as much as possible. Free play in a fenced in yard is OK (or on a long line if you live in an apartment).
  
  
• NO DOG PARKS. Not until at least 6 months of age. It can be a health hazard until your pup is UTD on all their vaccinations and it can be dangerous for your puppy to be interacting with unfamiliar/unpredictable dogs. Socialization is GREAT, but keep it with familiar dogs or in more controlled instances for the first few months. When the pup is older and HAS some basic manners, you can try going during off-peak hours/to the small dog side and slowly introduce him to the environment. You dont want your pup to be accosted by an unpredictable dog (which there can be many of in some parks) as it can cause serious re-activity/fear issues for their whole lives (and those are hard issues to iron out). Find puppy play dates with the Humane Society or other clubs outside of kindergarten, let him/her play with familiar dogs that are good with puppy's/well mannered, let them meet other (friendly) dogs on leash after they are done with their vaccines.
  
  
• Corgis can be prone to hip/joint/back issues. As such, things like jumping off high furniture or beds can cause some damage - from sore joints/pulled muscles, to things MUCH more serious like slipped disks. I would recommend investing in some dog stairs for any high furniture your corgi will be allowed on and training him/her to use them from day one.
  
  
• Understand the type of dog they are - they are herders. As such, expect some mouthiness, growling, weird sounds, and barking. These are rarely in malice - but rather their nature. If you are used to non-herding dogs, this can be quite a shift. Speaking for myself, my previous experience was with pointers, so transitioning to a herder was a bit weird at first. You are going to get chomped. You are going to have your dog make weird sounds in your general direction - don't freak out or think your puppy is aggressive - this is normal. You can curb all these behaviors with time and consistent training (just be sure to give it TIME. It will take months).
  
  There is a lot to know and a lot you will learn on the job, too. These are smart little bastard - do as much research as you can so you can be as prepared as possible. Owning a dog as an adult is much MUCH different than having a family dogs as a kid. It will be a shift!
  
  Good luck!

OH I forgot to talk about litter and litter boxes! Ratties can indeed be litter trained. Its a bit harder with peeing because ratties just love to mark everything and anything they can get their grabbies on, so thats something you'll have to accept unfortunately lol


Poops are easily controlled though. They might have the odd accident here and there but in general, it makes cleaning their cage a lot easier! Here is one example of a litter box. This is another type that uses a grate so that it isnt as messy. I personally prefer it without grates just because Im super paranoid about my ratties feet getting hurt haha


The type of litter people generally use is fragrance-free, dust-free recycled paper pellets. Many people swear by this litter. However, if youre in europe, its hard to get your hands on that stuff so I use this litter. It's pretty much the same thing - recycled paper pellets, fragrance and dust free. Its absorbent and controls odours very very well. Clay litter isnt recommended since if your rats ingest it, it will clump up in their alimentary canal which can be fatal. This is why I stopped using Critter Litter although many people like it. I dont since I find it doesnt control odours as well, and I hate how it clumps up and gets super pasty and smelly when it gets urine on it. Its hard to clean out and it smells awful. Paper pellets are the way to go in my opinion.


Another little thing people do with their litter boxes to help control the urine a bit better, is put some stones in the litter box. Rats, for whatever reason, love to pee on stones and rocks. I just picked up like 6 flat, smooth, large stones when I was at the beach. I froze them for 48 hours, then boiled them, sanitized them and now theyre in the corner of my boys' 2 litter boxes. My boys love to climb and perch on them and they pee on them. The cage odour is so much better and way more easily controlled that way. I highly recommend it! Just make sure when youre cleaning out their litter boxes, that you put the stones somewhere sanitary and boil them out with hot water. I usually put the stones in my sink, drench them in apple cider vinegar and antibacterial soap and let them sit there while I clean out the litter boxes. Then when I finish with the litter boxes, I pour boiling water from a kettle all over the stones and let them cool down. Then just dry them and they're ready to use. It's very easy and very effective!


Okay I think that's all, if I remember anything else I will add it on here haha

Crazy cat lady here, I have four in my apartment. Unless they are lying to me, everyone that comes over is always shocked I have cats because it doesn't smell like it "should". I have two air purifiers in the house these and I have this one that sits directly on top of the litter box. I've had my four cats around 10 years and also fostered probably about... 30. So I feel like I've tried it all and I finally have a good ritual and set up. I use this litter box because it's big and tall which they prefer but also easy to get inside when it's time to clean. I use this track mat because so far it's really done the best to keep the litter from traveling far from the box. And like you, I clean it 2-3 times a day. The litter that is. I use this litter which is LIGHT YEARS better than anything else I've ever used. One of my cats also has horrible allergies and this is the one litter I've found that she doesn't react to. It also doesn't dust so you don't have to constantly feel like poofs of litter are showing up around the house or on the carpet or furniture. I also vacuum every single day. I have one vacuum I use for the floor where there may be litter tracked and another I use that never touches litter. I think this is fairly important. This vacuum honestly is the best I've found for hair. Miracle worker. Unless you can afford the Dyson Animal. I also have this spray that I'll use for my carpet and fabric once a month or so and I feel like it makes a huge difference. And then lastly I also keep windows open whenever I can and I have this diffuser and put oil in it a few times a week and let it run for a bit, plus it looks cool with the lights :) Oh! and one last thing that I think is great... put one of those cardboard scratch pads near the litter box so the cat has to step over it to get anywhere else. Like off the track mat but near the box. I do this and all the cats inevitably use the scratch pad for fun when walking by it but I'm convinced it also cleans their paws from any litter left over before they start walking around the rest of the house!

Good luck to you!

If your parents allow you to keep the cat I would highly encourage you to check out some resources on cat behavior and cat care, as many people new to cats don’t really know as much as they think they know.

Basic important information you need to know off the bat:

• Remember that your cat is not a dog. Oftentimes people not familiar with cats try to treat the cat like it’s a small dog that meows, which leads to lots of stress and frustration on the cat and the owner’s parts. Cats are cats- their behaviors, body language, thought process, and needs are different than canines and it’s not fair to the cat to expect it to act like what it’s not. Appreciate your cat for the awesome animal that it is.
  
• DON’T DECLAW!! It is a barbaric procedure that involves amputating the tips of the cat’s toes, and leads to painful joints and behavioral issues later on. Scratching furniture and people can be prevented through training, and being aware of how to properly interact with the cat. Items like Sticky Paws furniture tape and Soft Paws claw caps are useful tools to prevent furniture scratching.
  
• Provide the cat with a good sturdy scratching post and some way to get up high, either using cat furniture or shelves. That way they have territory they can “claim” and feel confident in your home.
  
• Don’t free feed (where you keep their bowl filled with food 24/7). This is how you end up with a fat cat, as cats will continue to eat all day even when they’re not really hungry. Figure out what is the proper daily portion of food for your cat and divide that up into 2-3 meals throughout the day.
  
• Play with your cat EVERY DAY! This is one of the most important things you can do for your kitty! Sooooo many cat behavioral problems can be totally avoided or gotten rid of by simply playing with your cat and allowing them to get rid of all their built up energy.
  
• Clean the litter box yourself EVERY DAY!! Do not get lazy with this chore and make sure you do it without having to be asked first!!!! This will help prevent “going outside the litter box” issues (as cats don’t want to use a filthy, stinky bathroom anymore than you do) and will make your parents more likely to allow you to keep the cat. Something like a Litter Genie makes cleaning the litter box easier, as then you only have to take the waste to the trash once a week-ish instead of every day.
  
  My recommendations for more info on cats:
  
  
• Jackson Galaxy. Amazing cat behaviorist who’s videos are super helpful in explaining cat behaviors and addressing issues! Definitely watch his videos on playtime, petting your cat, and feeding.
  
• Cat Behavior Associates. Great website with detailed information on cat behavior and training.
  
• Think Like A Cat. This book is a handy guide on everything related to cat ownership- health, behavior, communication, food, cat furniture, etc.

3 inches depth is a good rule. I scoop the box completely every couple of days, and replace the litter completely every month-ish or if I notice that odors are lingering. I found that getting a good litter scoop took away any reluctance to clean the box I might have had; it just makes the task a lot easier.

Late to the party, but I think you may be buying unnecessarily expensive litter. Pet products are like anything else; the sky's the limit on what you can spend and there will always be a brand ready to sell to high rollers, but unless you're spending that much on a large (25lb+) bags then you can probably look for new litter.

I've been using Swheat Scoop and World's Best Cat Litter for ten years and have consistently found them to be affordable, high quality and low-maintenance. They are plant-based (wheat and corn, respectively), so if opened and then left unattended in a pantry they can attract critters, but they clump well, they don't have any sort of chemical odor that might turn your cat off, and best of all they're flushable—I'm an apartment dweller so being able to scoop the litter whenever I want to without the chore of taking it downstairs to the garbage each time is a great incentive to change it as regularly as my cats need.

Anyway, hope that's helpful! $30/bag if your cat doesn't explicitly need something special that's in that litter is way too much.

Cats bury their waste by instinct, so they're technically born litter-trained. ;) You'll want to have two boxes available (if you have the room in your flat, of course). Open boxes are supposed to be way better than ones with covers, but mine actually much prefer the enclosed ones. *shrug* There's a bunch of different litter box designs, too... take a look at the selection on Amazon, if you get a chance (I recommend this one).

Some cats are much messier than others with the litter; one of mine flings pawfulls of litter out of the box. Another one of mine finishes, and races out, tracking little grains of sand as far as she can. We have litter mats in front of all the boxes, which helps a lot, but you might want to invest in a dedicated little hand-held vacuum to keep nearby.

And you'll need something for claw maintenance -- a scratching post or pad. Don't go for expensive, fancy things, because it'll need replacing periodically. I tried a bunch of different ones, but ultimately, mine prefer the cardboard ones (specifically, this one). Well, that, and one of the living room chairs. *sigh*

An adult won't be as hyper and needy as a kitten, but play is still important. A laser pointer does wonders. If you're crafty, you can make some little catnip-stuffed toys (I crocheted some little mice and things that mine love, although they usually bat them up and down the hallway around 4am).

Another thing I noticed, and others have similar stories, was that a couple of my cats would bump the water dish before drinking. Another would dip her paw in. I'm pretty sure they couldn't tell where the surface was when the water wasn't moving. I got a drinking fountain for them, which solved that, and has the added benefit of filtering the water, keeping it fresher -- and cooler (so important, here in California).

I haven't tried these but heard good things about them on other forums and the reviews are very positive, especially since Nature's Miracle switched scents and ruined a good product. Just a few suggested Amazon links that might work well for you. Not sure if anyone else can suggest them or not.

Rocco & Roxie Professional Strength Stain & Odor Eliminator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/

Sunny & Honey Pet Stain & Odor Miracle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4Z5B24

Zero Odor Pet Spray: https://www.amazon.com/Zero-Odor-Eliminator-Trigger-ounces/dp/B0049PBWEA/

Bubba's Rowdy Friends Pet Supply Company Pet Stain and Odor Remover Enzyme Cleaner Spray: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK56SVE/

I'm in Nor Cal. There are so many beautiful places close to me, it's awesome!

If you are really dedicated, you can make it work. I've had to work crazy schedules like that, and I still kept my dog (only had one at the time) and my horse. When I worked at the shelter, I actually worked 4, 10 hour days, and so did all the other full timers, and they all had a lot of animals like myself.

If you're in a small apartment, a small senior dog can be perfect. They aren't very needy, usually sleep a lot, usually potty trained and are over all that silly naughty puppy stuff. Spend a lot of time with them in the morning, and when you come home. When you're gone, set them up in a bathroom or kitchen (door closed or fenced off with a baby gate,) with a bed, toys (only hard toys, bones and soft toys can be eaten while you're gone and that's very serious,) water and puppy pads or a faux grass potty patch like this one.

My sister actually has that potty patch for her chihuahua, as she lives in an apartment. She puts it on the porch and lets him out to use it. Some people don't like cleaning those though, and use real sod grass instead. In Los Angeles there's actually a delivery service that brings fresh sod to your door for that purpose!

Eventually you'll probably find you don't need to keep him kenneled or cordoned off. If you can hire a dog walker or have a neighbor come walk the dog during the day, you are totally set.

No, this situation is not ideal. But it's not ideal to be lonely for a pet, and it's not ideal that senior animals get put to sleep all the time because no one wants to adopt them. Not all senior animals are perfect angels, but a lot of them are. I know so many poodle, Shih Tzu, Schnauzer, Chihuahua, Lhaso Apso and mixed breed seniors that are just about perfect. They like to cuddle, they like to eat, play a little bit, take a short walk, and then sleep 14 hours a day.

Shit, my 12 year old Schnauzer is exactly that. If you're getting a dog, get this book, this magazine, check out this site, and spend a lot of time volunteering or just hanging out at your local rescue or animal shelter, and tell them your story. This book is also great. This of course is not a comprehensive list, just ones that really pop up to me as awesome.

But if that sounds like too much work, get a senior cat and give them lots of toys and kitty towers.

Edit - saw you want a hiking partner, and just want to say not to discount a senior dog on that account. My Schnauzer still goes on hikes under 5 miles with me, and was doing much longer ones up until about ten. You can always look at a more laid back terrier mix (6 + years) that has energy when you want it but can still relax at home when needed.

First thing you're gonna hear on this sub is get the boys checked by a vet. With cats urination issues are sometimes symptoms of very serious and sometimes fatal conditions. What you're also gonna wanna do is:

1. Make sure the litter box is frequently scooped (at least once a day). And the entire box should be emptied and refilled fresh at least every few weeks. The standard rule for the number of litter boxes required is the number of cats plus one. So in an ideal world they should have access to 3 litter boxes. If that's not gonna happen and they just have the one then it needs to be scooped VERY frequently. Try and position the litter box near a problem area. It can be moved once the problem has been resolved but it will make the retraining easier. You can add Litter Attract to the litter box and that will make it more tempting for them to use it.
   
   
2. Cats will pee in the same area. The spots they have peed in need to be cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner like Natures Miracle. Nothing else will work. Even if it looks clean and smells clean to you, the cats will still smell it.
   
   
3. If the cats are causing a ruckus at night then they need to be played with more. Get some interactive toys like the wands and play with them until they pant. A tired cat is a good cat.
   
   
4. Many people on this sub recommend and use feline pheromone spray/diffusers/collars. Feliway is the top brand. It can help problem cats calm down and be more comfortable.
   
   I'd also recommend you or your parents watch some videos on youtube by Jackson Galaxy aka the Cat Whisperer. This guy knows his stuff. Here's a few videos to get started:
   1
   2
   3

I have a puker. Things that really improved his pukeyness was a cat supplement that helps them with their gut. (Links below) Its advertised to help with poop issues, but will definitely help with puke issues as well.

You also need to make sure that there is NO grains in his/her food. Cats shouldn't have any grains in their food. Lots of cheap pet food use that as filler. Secondly, a lot of cheap food uses sub par ingredients. Check your cats food for chicken by product. It's bad for them. Its basically all the parts left over from taking the good stuff from the chicken. Wikipedia defines it as "It is made from grinding clean, rendered parts of poultry carcasses and can contain bones, offal and undeveloped eggs, but only contains feathers that are unavoidable in the processing of the poultry parts." Sounds pretty yucky, huh? You wouldn't eat it, so why should you feed it to your cat?
Crappy cat foods use a ton of fillers that are basically the equivalent to a bag of cheetos to humans.

Switch to a brand that is grain free and uses whole meats such as the wellness I linked below. Blue buffalo is also a good alternative. Do you feed your cat wet food? If not, try feeding a good wet food (Linked below). My cats love the core wellness wet food and really eating wet food is better than an all dry diet.

All this stuff is a little pricey, but its worth it in the long run. Taking him to the vet all the time is probably more expensive than switching to a better food. Do it slowly as well, like over a week or two.

Basically anything you can find in your grocery store's pet isle you shouldn't be feeding your pet. Its all junk. Even the "high end" purnia foods. Junk. I know purina makes a sensitive stomach formula for cats. I tried it and it didn't help my furry little puke machine at all. All these crappy foods don't really fill your cat up as much as a good food will so they will be hungrier more often because the quality of the food is just crap.

How I solved my cat puke problem was feeding them wet food in the morning and evening and leaving out a small bowl of dry food for them to snack on throughout the day. If your cat isn't really super hungry than they will eat a bit slower and that'll keep her from throwing up. Some cats don't handle the self regulating diet and instead just end up eating more food, so figure out if your cat(s) can handle grazing between wet food meals.

You can also try getting a cat water fountain and placing it somewhere separate from their water. Cats are weird and don't like their water near their food. Cats get most of their water from their food but having a flowing water source can really help them up their water intake. If cats don't get enough water they are prone to developing kidney and bladder problems. The Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain is really good. I have mine in my bathroom and my cats really enjoy playing with the water and getting their paws wet and licking them etc etc.

As for the stains, the stain remover I linked below is a god send. It's a good product that cleans up stains really well. It even does cat pee. I have light carpets and this stuff takes it right out and leaves no marks behind. It should even work on your old stains, you just have to leave it a little longer.

I know all this stuff adds up to a ton of money but its so worth it not to have to clean up cat puke all the time. I did a ton of research for my puke machine and he went from puking 3-4 times a week to puking maybe every 3 months and then its usually just a hairball. His coat also looked better and he was softer.

Let me know if you have any questions. I'd be happy to help you figure this out and field any more questions about how I solved my cats puke problems.

Wellness


Core Wellness Wet Food


Stain Remover


[puke helper](
http://www.amazon.com/Purina-Fortiflora-Feline-Nutritional-Supplement/dp/B001650OE0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1368101518&sr=1-2&keywords=fortiflora)

Cat Nutritional Supplements

• For future reference: for each cat you have, make sure to have +1 litter box for the total amount of cats you have. For instance, you have one right now? Try to have 2 if you have the space for it.
  
  
• Doggy bags have been great for us when cleaning our cat's litter contents (lol), but we also invested in a litter genie which is honestly the best purchase. This litter deodorizer comes at a close second.
  
  
• The Furminator is great for brushing, but some cats don't like it. Mine likes the Kong Brush, but we also tested out grooming mitts and fine tooth combs too. It completely depends on your little one.
  
  
• I've seen a few comments on r/pets about Blue Buffalo dry food being tied to more urine crystals, but I generally try to limit how much dry food I give my cat since she doesn't tend to go to her drinking fountain as often as we'd like.
  
  
• If you haven't already got a cat tree/scratchpost/tower, check out your local Marshalls or TJ Maxx. They have really great options and for much cheaper than some pet stores and they're usually assembled.
  
  

We tried this one, it was pretty good and gifted it to a friend when we couldn't use it because of our luddite cats.

The only bad thing about that one is that it uses special litter, I bet there are other ones that you can use regular litter for though! Have you tried putting one of the litter boxes in the spot they're eliminating on? Sometimes my cats want the box moved a foot away and will start pooping/peeing in a new spot and I'll just clean the spot and put the box there, no more going outside the box.

I don't know what your scooping situation is but if you haven't heard about it check out the litter genie! I still scoop every day but I only have to run litter to the trash once a week now, which is great in the winter. It's basically a diaper genie that you scoop poops into, I wish I'd found out about it sooner. Don't buy the refills from Amazon though, buy them at Walmart it's half price and a three pack will last you for months. Some people even hack them to just use regular 13 gallon trashbags but I like the odor protection of their refills.

I just realized I've become a cat box expert, haha. Good god.

1.) [Something that is grey.] (http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-SmartGrip-Litter-Gray-Twist/dp/B007SQFRMU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=35DW5BWHD972D&coliid=I38TYTP3QO3VYV)

2.) [Something reminiscent of rain.] (http://www.amazon.com/Musical-MP-200-8-Inch-Rainmaker-Shaker/dp/B000CBURPU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2YFT1UP19UC6T&coliid=I3SD8BF3BVM32F)

3.) [Something food related that is unusual.] (http://www.amazon.com/Nut-Milk-Bag-New-Improved/dp/B00158U8DU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3S72V8PR4PYO1&coliid=I2AH1R1GSQ52JT)

4.) [Something on your list that is for someone other than yourself. Tell me who it's for and why. (Yes, pets count!)] (http://www.amazon.com/Mommys-Helper-Car-Seat-Shade/dp/B00125NZSQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2YFT1UP19UC6T&coliid=I1TXQG28XXBC0I) For my daughter, so she doesn't melt in the car.

5.) [A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it!] (http://www.amazon.com/The-Girl-Left-Behind-ebook/dp/B00BSY6U6K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=ZJTYBG9S817P&coliid=I13JIN1E80H7G) Well, I haven't read this one yet, but I read her last book, Me Before You, a few months ago and LOVED it.


6.) [An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related!] (http://www.amazon.com/Home/dp/B002G690B6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=LVUGPBTDLHFS&coliid=I2V27LFTC98I6K)

7.) [Something related to cats.] (http://www.amazon.com/Da-Bird-Cat-Toy-Store/dp/B000F9JJJE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=35DW5BWHD972D&coliid=I32WEJ4UV0RR)

8.) [Something that is not useful, but so beautiful you must have it.] (http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Colorful-Rainbow-Synthetic-Costume/dp/B00966CIAO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=VF4I3JWXLPHE&coliid=I3J6CNZ64SMNW5)

9.) [A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why?]
(http://www.amazon.com/Pride-Prejudice-Restored-Edition-Colin/dp/B00364K6YW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=ZJTYBG9S817P&coliid=I2JAGS8BIXE6M9) Because Colin Firth.

10.) [Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain.] (http://www.amazon.com/Lodge-L10SK3-12-Inch-Pre-Seasoned-Skillet/dp/B00006JSUB/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3S72V8PR4PYO1&coliid=I14266M2SVKSXM) Well, if I had to survive on my WL items alone, I would surely die. BUT, I figure this could at least come in handy to cook over open fires and it is the most weapon-like thing on my list.

11.) [Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals.] (http://www.amazon.com/Reebok-Kettlebell-10-Pounds-Lime-Green/dp/B008R5HY54/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=39MD4F4AQ4MXM&coliid=I2XGPU1DE4SJW5&psc=1) Gotta get off the baby weight!

12.) [One of those pesky Add-On items.] (http://www.amazon.com/Kotobuki-Plastic-Egg-Mold-Fish/dp/B002TZ04JG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=LVUGPBTDLHFS&coliid=I2PHEI57WW2PIY)

13.) [The most expensive thing on your list. Your dream item. Why?] (http://www.amazon.com/Burley-Encore-2013-Bike-Trailer/dp/B00AVUHUEI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2YFT1UP19UC6T&coliid=I15NA2PJZUXBY4&psc=1) Maybe not my dream item, but the most expensive for sure. My husband and I love biking, but right now I'm sidelined since we have a 1 year old. This would let us all go!

14.) [Something bigger than a bread box.] (http://www.amazon.com/Tree-Condo-Furniture-Scratch-House/dp/B003XLIVZ4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=35DW5BWHD972D&coliid=I33YA670HLM8GP)

15.) [Something smaller than a golf ball.] (http://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Gold-Peridot-Dangle-Earrings/dp/B001H54K4O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=24R3M5GIPRKSE&coliid=I25YHXC05Q9VTT)

16.) [Something that smells wonderful.] (http://www.amazon.com/Tea-Forte-Loose-Leaf-Canister/dp/B006TZFOVU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=28JN11TB2DHP4&coliid=I3P4PBFBU5HWL6)

17.) [A (SFW) toy.] (http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Little-People-Friends-Exclusive/dp/B008ZUGOAW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2YFT1UP19UC6T&coliid=IIMNWL3OA8808)

18.) [Something that would be helpful for going back to school.] (http://www.amazon.com/Wilton-2109-0309-Ultimate-Professional-Decorating/dp/B008GXE7P2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=29KYW0DBB8ME2&coliid=INH34JY48VH4F) If you are going to school to become a baker.

19.) [Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be.] (http://www.amazon.com/Blendtec-40-620-54-Twister-Jar/dp/B0087Q1T1S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=29KYW0DBB8ME2&coliid=I394DCB2QJ4RAZ) Making my own sprouted nut butters!!

20.) [Something that is just so amazing and awe-inspiring that I simply must see it. Explain why it is so grand.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Price-Little-People-Friends-Wheelies/dp/B00650F5SG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2YFT1UP19UC6T&coliid=I3RS9BP4QYQAC7) Because tiny Super Friends in cars are awesome for raising a baby nerd. (On a related note, this question made me realize that I am boring and practical.)


fear cuts deeper than swords

I'm not going to spare you. With your current situation, you should not get this puppy. I'm not saying you can't get a dog (that would be entirely hypocritical), but you shouldn't get a puppy. 8 week old puppies need someone with them at least every two hours, preferably more often. I would seriously, seriously reconsider and look for a more adult dog (even 6 months old would be alright, a year or older would be ideal). There are breed specific rescues if you have your heart set on a particular breed, but I highly suggest going to the shelters and seeing what dog is there that will mesh with you.

If you insist on getting this puppy, the absolute best thing would be for you to hire someone to come in in the middle of the morning and the middle of the afternoon to let your dog out and to play for a while (at least a half hour, more would be preferable) then to crate train your dog otherwise. The general rule is that dogs can hold their bladders for how many months old they are. So once your dog is 4-5 months old, they should be able to hold their bladder for the 4-5 hours you'd be away at a time. So it's going to be 3 months of this, which honestly, in the long run won't be all that much money.

I'd also seriously consider permanently coming home during lunch as even for an adult dog, 8 hours is a long time alone.

The whole point of the crate is that dogs are unwilling to pee where they sleep. So you really don't want your dog peeing in the crate at all.

If you're unwilling/unable to hire someone, next best thing is to either get an exercise pen or find a dog-proof room (preferably something with hard floors - if you don't have tile floors, consider doing something like laying down some plywood and then putting some adhesive linoleum tiles or similar on it and then put the exercise pen on top of that for ease of cleaning) and put a pee pad, bed and some toys/chews in the pen/room.

For that week you're home, you'll want to really work on training your dog to pee on the peepad (or maybe consider getting a small artificial turf thing like this, no clue if this one is any good)

Note that having a dog use a pee pad can make it very difficult for them to become truly potty trained in the future because they're learning that peeing and pooping inside is ok.

Never had a lion head before or a longer-haired bun so I don't have any specific tips for them...

​

The main reason I am not a fan of the corner litter boxes like that is because I do not think they have enough space for them to move around, even the large ones. My buns is a high-top cat litter box, with a big pile of hay stacked in front of the "entrance." I like that it is large and a rectangular so the hay can be inside the box and the bun doesn't have to reach for a bowl or rack. :) Here is another type that might work best for your situation: https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Open-Top-Litter-High-Shield-without/dp/B0069Z5PBY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TXBV1JJ76LOI&keywords=high+top+cat+litter+box&qid=1554861471&s=gateway&sprefix=high+top+cat+litter%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-3

​

My bun sits in his box for a long time munching on hay, I personally wouldn't want him to have to stand on a grate that long. Unless your bun digs in the hay or pushes it out of the box I wouldn't recommend a grate. If you let them roam outside of their designated room, say in your living room, a grate set up could help with the mess. I wouldn't put the grate set-up in boxes that they use often such as the one in their enclosure and in their room.

​

Putting a rug or a mat in front of the litter box makes the mess a little easier to clean up - a lot of the litter will catch on the rug when they hop out of the litter box, I just pick up the rug and shake the excess into the litter box every now and then. Having a hay rack mounted somewhere with circular holes could work as well, I have a rack on the second level of my buns cage, all the hay he may spill goes right into the litter box.

​

All in all, it's almost impossible to not have hay all over the place. I personally don't have a problem with the house having hay around. I definitely recommend getting a small vacuum though. I always clean up weekly and whenever I have company over I like to clean up all the hay. My buns designated room is always littered with hay, you get used to it. I do understand your concern though. :)

toys:

cat dancer

the hot pursuit

cat tunnel

crinkle balls

litter:

my favorites in order are:

Arm and Hammer Seal and Clump

Ever Clean with activated charcoal (clumping)

Tidy Cats clumping

litterbox:

jumbo high-back litterbox

i would avoid covered or anything that makes the kitty feel trapped. no reason not to have tall walls, especially with sloppy kittens. you're also going to want a litter mat so they don't track it everywhere.

food:

kittens. eat. constantly. so keep out dry food 24/7 and feed a little wet food morning and night. this is temporary, don't free-feed dry food when they're an adult. you'll want to transition kitty to scheduled feedings when they're 6-8 months old, and i recommend wet food only at that point as kibble really isn't great.

my kitten has been thriving on premium edge kitten food but purina's kitten offerings look good and are a bit easier to find. with wet food supplementation. if you want, tell me your budget and i can give you some recommendations.


misc:

72" wooden cat condo - (or something like it, you definitely want something 6 ft+ for them to climb)

a tall scratching post - random one i found. tall scratchers are healthy for your cat, they have vertical muscles that need to be exercised.

cardboard scratchers - i like this one as it lasts a long time and you can flip it over for a new side.

not sure about flea meds as my cats are indoors. your vet will know what is effective in your region (some flea meds are completely useless in certain states). i would keep your cat indoors though.

like others have mentioned, have him checked out by a vet to make sure he is not suffering from any medical conditions. such as urinary infections or something else.

Have you tried getting a new, bigger litterbox? perhaps use a large cardboard box or something to give him more privacy? my cat's BIG litterbox is walled off using a large free Amazon cardboard box. He can't see me and I can't see him while he's conducting business.

while cats can see very well in the dark, my cat prefers a little night light just above his litterbox... once when the bulb burned out, he didn't go to the litterbox... I changed the bulb and he was all fine again.(yes, I know... weird, right? maybe he's afraid of the dark?)

or try this type of litter? it's for litterbox training and supposedly attract cats to the litterbox... perhaps your cat needs some new encouragement... (also available at local pet stores)
https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B000PKY7YA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499619785&sr=8-4&keywords=precious+cat
.


best of luck to you and your kitty! :)

I don't mean to find humor in your misfortune, b/c I totally get it, but when I got to your 2nd sentence I started laughing, because...of course he is. A daschund. They tend to be a hard dog for anybody but the mommy (or daddy) to love. ;-o

Honestly, if you have a small breed in NYC with this kind of issues, I would recommend litter box training. Yeah, it means you have poop in the house, but...you could pick a room, put a doggie door, put a deodorant back there & check it a lot. Another alternative is a strip of sod (downside is it needs changed often) or those plastic-grass things they make for apartment dwellers. Here, like this: https://www.chewy.com/dog/wee-wee-patch-indoor-potty-small/dp/52776?utm_source=google-product or this: http://www.amazon.com/PetZoom-Pet-Park-Indoor-Potty/dp/B002ZHRTAK

I think your dog has issues that won't be easily fixed where you live, and rather than fight with her all the time, you could cave on the potty thing and probably have a better relationship with her.

I have a 12 yr old cat that started doing the same thing. There can be many issues that are leading up to this. I'll post more after I'm done eating dinner. Just know that it's absolutely possible (and quite likely) to fix this situation!

Edit:
Ok, so given what you're saying, this sounds like it's stress based behavior. The first thing that any vet is going to say is:

• Have at least 1 more litter box than you have cats. If you have one cat, have 2 boxes. If you have 2 cats, have 3 boxes, etc.
  
• Try different litter in different boxes. Cats can just up and decide that they don't like a litter if they're stressed (little pricks). Plus, a different litter can be "interesting" to them and help encourage them to use it. It's expensive, but have her give Cat Attract a try.
  
• Have litter boxes in different locations in the house. If there's one spot in particular where the cat's going to the bathroom inappropriately, put a litter box there. On a side note, don't go out and purchase an expensive litter box for this test. Go to Target and pick up one of those wide and shallow Rubbermaid storage containers (like this, but a tad shorter) and use that as a litter box.
  
• Try both hooded and un-hooded litter boxes. Some cats can decide they want privacy for doing their business (so, hoods are a good thing) while others can feel like they're trapped (hoods = bad) because any animal is vulnerable while they're using the bathroom. Given that this cat is more stressed now, this might be part of the problem.
  
• If possible try to designate one spot in the house as "the cat's spot". This was the root of helping our cat get over part of her issues (the other was related to a medical condition). We have a spare bathroom in our apartment, so we made this her room. We put 2 baby gates up at night to confine her there, but give her free run of the house during the day. This helped her feel safe, and the other cat knows to stay away. In your friend's situation, she should keep the baby as far away from this "safe spot" as possible.
  
• She may consider looking into a Feliway product to help reduce stress. They haven't worked for us, but I've heard of plenty of people that this worked for.
  
  I know that she's already spent a lot of mental energy (and at least some money) on this situation, but it will take patience for her to figure out what can change to help her cat cope with this. Cats are very social creatures, and in your friend's case she has a 15 year bond with this cat. She has been this cats only friend and social companion for its entire life, so of course bringing a baby into the mix (who she now has to focus her attention on, and who all home routines now revolve around) stresses the cat out.
  
  If your friend would like to talk, or if she has any specific questions, shoot me a message. If she wants to talk over the phone, I'd be happy to help Q&A there too. I'm not a vet, I'm not even a crazy cat lady (for one, I'm a guy). I'm just an IT guy with 2 old cats who went through a lot to figure out what was wrong with them.

My birthday is coming up this wednesday and I am turning 21! Super excited for this one for obvious reasons!

1. My go to meal is usually a steak stir-fry! Just chop up some veggies and throw in some steak and in 20 min you have a delicious meal! Make sure you spice it up as well, I usually use salt, pepper, and steak seasoning. The veggies I usually use are: peppers, mushrooms, onions, zucchini, and squash.
   
   
2. My goals. I always strive to be the best person I can be.
   
   
3. Rambo the panda bear is our only hope.
   
   
4. HERE IS SOMETHING GREEN FOR YOU

1. They can run free, just make sure there's nothing the cat can tip over by climbing on that could potentially hurt them.
   
2. Some cats can free feed some can't help but overeat. Free feed unless your cat can't help itself.
   
3. Don't bathe a cat, they will hate it, hurt you and they just don't need it. They keep themselves studiously clean.
   
4. A laser pointer. Feathers on a string suspended by a wand. Be careful not to hurt their teeth with these though - they REALLY like them.
   
5. A nice cat condo is much appreciated by all cats and if you say nice words when they scratch it and mean words when they scratch your couch you can train them to use it exclusively (usually) saving your furniture.
   
6. One plop in a litter box will be all that's necessary. This is probably one of the most amazing things you will ever witness. They just know. Also, get one of these (you will NOT believe how awesome they are)
   
7. Probably.
   

Oh yeah I have one of those but it doesn't do enough right now. He's pretty energetic and tends to run out of the litter box. Doesn't exactly help the situation either.

Edit: In case anyone is interested, I just bought this litter matt and it's awesome.

We have three cats and a dog. Both this dog and our previous dog LOVED cat poop. Two key items 100% solved our problems:

1. Doorway gate with cat door: https://www.amazon.com/Carlson-Extra-Tall-Gate-Small/dp/B000JJFNJK/
   
2. Litter cabinet: https://www.amazon.com/Merry-Products-Washroom-Bench-White/dp/B004E8M7PK/
   
   As a bonus, the doorway gate provides a room where the dog is never allowed. This is pretty key to most peaceful cat/dog coexistence situations. The cats need to know they have a space they can retreat to that is safe and all their own.

I disagree with some of these answers, I rarely replace the litter in any of my cat boxes (i have 3). but to do this you have to clean it VERY frequently. I clean my litter boxes at a minimum 3 times per day. the only thing i ever have to do is add litter from time to time. a 40lb box of cheapo litter i get will last me about 2 weeks.

I might change the litter once every 3 or 4 months

I have to clean the box this often because I have one diabetic cat that uses all 3 boxes. he pees a lot. and the key is to not let pee sit in the box. that's what makes it stink. the faster you clean that out the longer your litter will last.

finally, I buy my scoopers from amazon. metal, not flimsy plastic. it sounds like maybe the scooper you have has wider holes, or the litter isnt clumping right. i very rarely have a piece that I can't get out.

this is what I use. http://www.amazon.com/Duranimals-DuraScoop-Litter-Scoop-colors/dp/B001DCAAP4?ie=UTF8&keywords=litter%20scoop&qid=1464045417&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

I don't know how to fix the whole problem, but maybe you should consider:

• Don't use vinegar to clean up urine. It's acidic, like urine, and may attract further urination. You need to get an enzymatic solution that's made for cleaning up biological messes (pee, poop, vomit, etc.) If you can't get some in a pet store nearby, you can order it by mail. You should go back and re-clean any previously soiled spots with it.
  
  
• Get them fixed immediately! You have multiple males, and a female. You should get them all fixed. Spraying and marking with urine are territorial behaviors. If nothing else, it will calm everybody down.
  
  Edit: Feliway is also available on Amazon by mail.

You can also get cat attract litter. We have had success with this Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Cat Attract Scoopable Cat Litter
cat attract litter

I suuuuuper love my sifting litter box because it makes the job fast and easy. I don't remember the brand I have but it's just like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNX32K1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_gL.5CbVZNDFD2

I got one at Walmart and it was cheap. It takes literally ten seconds to get every clump. I sift it daily, and on weekends I dump the whole thing, hose it, start fresh. I will never buy another fancy one again.

I rent and the only good spot for a box is in my kitchen, where a dishwasher should be. It turns out that having it there is great because I can't ignore it and the trash is right there. "Out of sight out of mind" isn't helping you so maybe consider moving the box or moving one of your regular chores or hobbies to the basement so you have to go down there more. Tie it mentally to something else you already do. I sift mine when I'm waiting for tea water to boil in the AM and dump it when I start laundry on Sundays. You just have to find a way to get it in the routine is all.

Looks cool, but too much work for me. The simplest and cheapest solution I've found is this:

Large trash can like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5OBMUA/. Note the step pedal to open, and the inner liner/pail with the handle.

Basic rake and pan: https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Clean-Response-Aluminum-Small/dp/B00L68MUTE

Crystal cat litter: https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Step-Crystals-Premium-Litter/dp/B001OQXEHK

Clean up the poop and dump into trash bag in can (same level of effort as the doggy septic tank), and after you're done, dump a scoop or two of the crystals on top. The whole point of them is that they dry out fecal matter, so the poop dries out and hardly smells. Once the bin gets reasonably full (I have a Corgi, and it usually takes weeks before I have to empty it; bigger dogs will be a different matter), tie the inner bag up, lug it over to the big trash bin using the inner can liner, and toss the bag.

I've been using crystal cat litter with my cats for years, and I love it. The dog poo can doesn't smell at all (and the smell isn't even that bad when it's open, because the crystals desiccate the poop). A bag of the crystals runs about $14, but last over several weeks, depending on how much scooping and poop there is.

My guy is incredibly fussy about there being ANYTHING inside the litter box. In the end I bought a giant litter box that allows him some space. Granted, it is cleaned multiple times a day but nice if we are out a couple hours. Very happy with it, and he seems to be as well.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHLVA4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a recommendation from a vet-student of mine: Purina Pro-Plan. It encompasses extremely high-quality ingredients, affordable prices and various flavors/specialty blends. The dry food or wet variant are both excellent for your kitty, but the dry food will be cheaper. I would use the wet food if the kitty doesn't adhere well to drinking water as the wet-food contains high amounts of water. If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask. Congratulations on becoming a kitty owner!

Here are my recommendations on supplies:

Litter box: http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Jumbo-Hooded-Cat-Litter/dp/B003RQVGKC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458653&sr=8-2&keywords=litter+box

Litter scooper: http://www.amazon.com/Duranimals-DuraScoop-Litter-Scoop-colors/dp/B001DCAAP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458674&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+scooper

Litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458691&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+litter (cheaper if you buy this one at PetSmart believe it or not)

Kitten food: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Plan-Chicken-Formula-7-Pound/dp/B003R0LLXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458746&sr=8-1&keywords=purina+pro+plan+kitten

Litter mat: http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-SmartGrip-Litter-Gray-Twist/dp/B007SQFRMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458842&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+box+mat

I use the pine litter and double layer box as well. It's cheap and lasts way longer than regular litter. I can't really say too much on the smell though. The litter itself smells way better, but since it doesn't clump around the poop when the cat does its business you can smell that. Either that or my cat has lethal shits lol

I also have a Litter Genie which I know isn't zero waste, but it limits the amount of bags I need to use to clean her poop. I scoop it in there and it holds it smell free for about 2-3 weeks before it gets full and I have to take it out.

I think they mean something like this, with the lid removed obviously: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I8Q6RQ

Roughly how large is the cat now in terms of height/length? Does your vet have an estimate how much more it will grow?

This one has a removable lid and can be used without it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1NAPY/ref=psdc_2975299011_t1_B003RQVGKC. It's pretty big.

My 16 pounder uses this with space to spare. Lid/door removable: https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Jumbo-Hooded-Cat-Litter/dp/B003RQVGKC

EDIT: On the second one, you can actually remove the plastic door and the gray flap on top to create a semi-covered box that partially open on top, which maybe a good compromise for a cat who needs some extra headroom.

Maybe her change in behavior is caused by her medications (vidalta, antibiotic) interacting with each other and causing dementia-like symptoms. I know for sure that this can happen with older people. For her peeing outside the litter box, try a box that's easier for her to enter, such as http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087Y5NKS. Best of luck!

Amazon! I have a couple, they are great! Sunny is a pole-vault-pee-er; he lifts his butt up like 10" to pee, and goes over the side of every other box I own. These are perfect for his messy little habits.

• scratching post (my cats prefer sisal rope). this one is hardcore but all the posts are covered in sisal rope, you just need one post like that.
  
  
• litter box this one is really easy to use and clean. just tilt the box.

Rabbits are very neat and clean, they tend to poop in one corner of their cage and stay out of it (except when pooping). If you want to keep the cage neat and easier to clean get a [corner litter pan] (http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Lock-N-Litter-Small-Colors/dp/B000HG96EI/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=14APT6MBGMTXFMKMVXMH). They keep everything contained. Just put it in the corner she normally poops in, be sure to but hay and stuff in there too, they like a little snack while they are pooping

Hii :) i barely made the height requirement. I would love this for Albus http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BDU8EW/ref=aw_ls__1?colid=C5ZKILDHQ77C&coliid=I2WQKGDSS5PZI he is a messy pooper and this would stop his litter from getting everywhere haha

Thanks for the contest :D

Ruger

I use the costco Scoop Away Complete. You can also get it on Chewy https://www.chewy.com/scoop-away-complete-performance/dp/103439?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Scoop%20Away&utm_term=&gclid=CIaqx7Pa5dMCFVaewAodBP0DGg&gclsrc=aw.ds I love this stuff and the litter boxes I use my mom got me one of those cat purifier things. I change them once a month and I notice a big difference. https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Magic-Purifier-Litter-Boxes/dp/B016KITJSO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1494432460&sr=12&keywords=magic+blue+cat+filter and here is the litter boxes I own I love this kind https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Advanced-Hooded-Corner/dp/B004N1NAPY/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1494432499&sr=1-11&keywords=cat+litter+box

There are lots of great ones out there. You can purchase or use them as ideas to DIY your own.

Washroom Cabinet

Mahogany Cabinet

Bench - this is one of my favorite ideas. Very easy to disguise!

Nightstand - I'm not so sure about having a little box right beside the bed, but with minimal space it would do in a pinch as long as it was diligently maintained.

Hope this helps! :D

I use the Nature's Miracle Advanced Corner Hooded litter box for my 7 month ragdoll boy. It works pretty well for me, I haven't had any issues.

This stuff is the bomb diggity. It saved my sofa after a certain Rottweiler got a little too excited about guests.

I've been using Sunny & Honey and am really liking it. My boyfriend loves the scent too. Haha.

This is the greatest litter box ever created:
http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Large/dp/B0002DK2DU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1299397624&sr=8-1

No batteries, electronic, etc., but it takes about 30-60 seconds to fully clean it. You roll it upside down, roll it back right-side up, and magically all the shit is in the pull out drawer, and you just dump it in a trash bag. Done.

Well I think you're definitely gonna want a litter box if you want them to not poop everywhere else. They make several different kinds that attach to the cage- I like this one which pretty much costs the same as a regular litterbox. You can also try using zipties as suggested, but you are definitely going to need a box of some kind. Any kind. That is why they are pooping everywhere.

Also why can't you just vacuum the rat poops daily? I mean you should be doing daily spot cleaning and poop removal anyway.

> Do you have any recommendations for a good enzyme cleaner?

I'd suggest trying Nature's Miracle - just tried it for the first time on a recommendation from our vet, and that stuff is great!

Cool, hope it works out for you. Here's an amazon link to brand we use. :) https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Step-Crystals-Premium-Clumping/dp/B001OQXEHK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504028387&sr=8-3&keywords=fresh+step+crystals

Only for reference though, I didn't price hunt or anything. Chewy.com might have it.

I had the same issue for too long. I recently got one of these "scoop free" litter boxes and put it in a cat bench thing and it's honestly been a dream. 2 cats and I can go 4-5 days without smelling anything.

Precious Cat Cat Attract Problem Cat Training Litter, 40 pound bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PKY7YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_on00Bb4K217EP


This is what we used for kittens to train then switched to the precious cat litter by the same company. We had 4 four cats for 2 years in one litter box and this was amazing. All 4 cats had no issue using the same box.

I also recommend a paper box that you replace every month or so keeps the smell of litter box at bay.

I shouldn't get this cat litter mat because I love having used cat litter strewn about the house. This mat would eliminate what some would call a "problem". I personally love the feel of litter between my toes and couldn't imagine why anyone would want a mat that would stop a cat from tracking it around the house.

How many cats do you have? Even having more than two can cause the urination problems, especially if any of them aren't fixed. It's a territorial/stress thing.

There's a product called Cat Attract litter (https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B000PKY7YA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510447760&sr=8-2&keywords=cat+attract&dpID=51v5HA3HLqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) I've used in the past with good results, and it's not particularly expensive compared to any other kind. Feliway or some other calming pheromone product might help, too.

Pretty late to this thread, but saw you were/are having issues with litter all over the place. This litter box doesn't eliminate the problem, but it really really helps:

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-High-Sided-Litter-inches/dp/B0087Y5NKS

I believe it's available at some PetSmart locations too.

Buy your "neighbor" a fully enclosed litter box. They are a little pricey, BUT they help with the smell so much. I have one in my tiny apt and you can't smell a thing unless you're standing right next to it. I know it sucks having to spend money for someone else, but just think of the benefits. You won't have to creat tension and you're offering a solution. Here's a link if you're interested

My cat was having a similar issue. I got a litter box with high sides and a walk-in opening like this https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-High-Sided-Litter-P-82035/dp/B0087Y5NKS and a really large base for a dog crate like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HCN6RK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to put underneath the litter box. It really helps keep the pee inside the box and off the floor.
Old cats require a lot of maintenance.

I have a cat that misses 50% of the time too. Poo as well as pee. I just bought this box with a translucent shield and open top (since she won't use a covered box) and should have it in two days. I hope it helps!

Your item!

My item!!

I love kevin!!

Don't get me wrong, I hate scooping the litter box as much as the next person, but those things are so expensive! If you're looking for convenience, why not try one of those trays that you put in your litter box that once you pull back out catches all the chunks? Like this for example : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNX32K1/ref=asc_df_B06XNX32K15244095/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B06XNX32K1&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198060065450&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8938777175045984182&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028781&hvtargid=pla-351098910156

Seems cheaper and about as useful

I've had excellent luck with enzyme treatments, which break down the odor causing compounds into their base components.

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-32-Ounce-P-5721/dp/B003I5QRJ2

Just be aware that it takes physical time for this to work. Mist it over the surfaces two, three, maybe four times a day. It will get rid of the odors in 72 hours, maybe more, if it is really a heavy concentration.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHLVA4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I use this for my two cats. It can fit an entire 40lb of cat litter with room to spare. My cats love it. If I had more room, I'd have two.

I bought this one: Ware Manufacturing Plastic Lock-N-Litter Pan for Small Pets, Colors May Vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HG96EI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M3WzDb0CN4M61 but I might get a smaller one since it takes up soo much space. I take off the entire wired cage part and put the litter box in on the bottom (the metal part) after cleaning then put the wire cage back on top if that makes sense? I just use the top shelf for their food and water since like you said it is too tiny for anything else.

> /u/MYOPATHYHURTS

• $38.97 The Elder Scrolls V: Skyrim Legendary Edition - Xbox 360 This way /u/MYOPATHYHURTS gets Skyrim plus more items!
  
  
  
  
• $2.98 Chex Cereal, Honey Nut, 13.8 Oz
  
  
  
  
• $6.99 Nature's Miracle Just for Cats Advanced Stain & Odor Remover, 24-Ounce Spray
  
  
  TOTAL: $48.94
  

Maybe try this?

Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract Problem Cat Training Litter, 40 pound bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PKY7YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VVIgDbKX1Z9GP

Precious Cat Ultra Litter Attractant, 20 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PKUUU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yWIgDb997QP35

I believe they come with instructions on how to solve litter box issues.

I'd also put a litter box in the bedroom.

I got this new automatic cat litter box that you only have to clean once a month. My cat uses it but you can tell that he doesn't fully trust it since he always watches it from about ten feet while it runs. Works great, isn't too expensive.

This new Arm & Hammer litter box is pretty awesome. No more scooping.

I usually just soak up as much as I can, sprinkle baking soda, and then vacuum it up. Also, invest in Nature's Miracle. BEST STUFF EVER. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^quaffle

You could try a litterbox that has high sides, but is open at the top. Sort of best of both worlds. Here's an example: https://www.amazon.ca/IRIS-Open-Litter-Shield-Scoop/dp/B002BDU8EW

First, you're not a dick for bringing this to your roommates attention.That's disgusting, and inhumane not scoop a cats litter box in 3 weeks. You guys are lucky if those cats haven't starting pooping and peeing on furniture and other places around the house in an attempt to find somewhere clean to go.most cats will refuse to do their business in messy litterboxes. Can you blame them? I'm sure your roommates wouldn't want to use a toilet that hadn't been flushed in 3 weeks.


Is there anyway they could get a self scooping litterbox?

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScoopFree-Self-Cleaning-Automatic-Disposable/dp/B000XSC8R2/ref=sr_1_20?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1500662904&sr=1-20-spons&keywords=automatic+litter+box&psc=1

I don't personally use one of these, but I've heard they are good.

We have 6 cats here and 4 large litterboxes (I know, i need 2 more) ..I make sure to scoop them twice a day once before I feed the cats breakfast and after I feed them dinner.there are no cat litter box odors here.

The advertising says this one is Giant. I have one and it's not a lie. That indentation on the side is so you can hold it against you like a laundry basket, the thing is 3 feet wide. One of my cats has short stubby legs but given the choice of a "normal" sized box, a slightly bigger covered box, and this giant box... the giant box is her favorite by far even though she has to climb into it by stepping on the edge.

Ah yes, eau de dog wee.

There are special enzyme cleaners for pet accidents that actually work pretty well.

I've heard good things about this one from people at the kennel where I used to work, but haven't used it myself.

Better than rice, use silica gel which is most easily found in cat litter for example

It’s kind of pricey but we use these boxes and they help ALOT. Keeps the smell minimum and also helps you keep up the maintenance, making less invasive, and less chance for it to stink as much. Petsade Scoopfree Auromatic self Cleaning Box on Amazon

There’s also a cheaper model without the hood, you should be able to see show up in the search results.

Other people have good ideas in this thread but also there is special cat-attractive litter box training litter that you should try. It works for re-training too. https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Elseys-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B000PKY7YA

You could try giving all the removable parts (if it's a bagless)a good washing in an enzymatic cleaner, and use the leftover to spray down whatever other parts you can reach with a spray bottle.

I have a sifting litter box (like this one) and have been using Exquisicat Pine Cobble and it has been working out great!

Pet Mate 42036 Arm & Hammer Large Sifting Litter Pan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNX32K1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1uLODb8MPBZV5

That’s what I have!! Works amazing and it’s cheap.

I use this mat, which works perfectly. The mat does not go under the litter box; it should lead from the litter box so your cats walk on it as they exit. If your cats exit a litter box in all directions, you might need multiple mats for that box.

This one has been pretty good with my Maine Coon (he's a 23lb cat that doesn't bury his either). You'll want to tip it slowly to prevent straining excess litter. But if that doesn't look like it will work, I second the DIY idea, you could even attached a cat door to a storage box if you wanted to.

We bought one of these. Its kind of expensive and maybe you could buy something similar from goodwill and modify it to add a cat entry to save money. At any rate we notice far more odor if the front doors get left open so it is effective, but its not a silver bullet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004E8M7PK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

We also use the Dr. Elsey's blue box litter.

If you have laminate floors, it would probably be easier for you to sweep the litter into a pile and use a handheld dustbuster to vacuum it up. You might also want to invest in a litter mat that traps the litter in to decrease the overall amount of mess you have to clean up. These are what I use. They're a bit pricey (I have 3 cats, so I had to buy 4 of these), but worth it.

Amazon sells this disgusting thing. Hopefully the indoor dog bathroom will advance along with warp technology.

Try Nature's Miracle urine remover, and then Bissel upholstery shampoo - a few reviews said it works for cat odors and stains and even projectile vomiting where Resolve failed.
I use Nature's Miracle products with my puppy when he has floor (not carpet) accidents and it's like nothing ever happened.

I use something called a Litter Genie. It is like a disposable waste bin for kitty poop but it has a little compartment that traps air out so it kinda helps with the odor. Here is the link:
Litter Genie Pail, Ultimate Cat Litter Disposal System, Locks Away Odors, Includes One Refill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019W0OH48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-qa8Cb58NGZT1

Cat litter is everywhere! I have had luck with this litter mates, though. iPrimio Large Cat Litter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPZ63Q8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I got mine on amazon for like 30$ here's a link to something similar. http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Large/dp/B0002DK2DU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1313714555&sr=8-1

It's too small for him as far as I can tell. It's one of these, and it's weird because I just cleaned it not even a week ago. It may still be unsuitable in her eyes but she would normally go somewhere extremely obvious, somewhere I would notice and make a point to clean her box.

Just fyi this stuff works really well for getting rid of literal cat pee.

Interesting problem. Not something I've ever seen here before.

OK. Lets say you do this, and the disposal system works. Now the pee is flowing and collecting in the floor drain trap. So you need a deodorizer. This might do the job:

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-32-Ounce-P-5721/dp/B003I5QRJ2

Put some in the trap, and see how the process goes. I'd also suggest soaking some Nature's Miracle in an absorbent pad that is placed in the bottom of the collection tray, to start the odor removal process immediately. You know, this just might work.....

A litter box with higher sides might help. (My cat did the same thing with low-sided boxes.) Here are two examples: #1, #2.

I bought this one off Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPZ63Q8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also prefer the top-entry box because my boyfriend's got one, and his cat doesn't even get in the box. She just sits on top like it's a toilet. So he's got no litter problems. But my Kiki's about half his cat's size, and she just gets in there and digs. And explodes out the top, showering a good 3-foot radius with cat litter. The mat helps, but it gets EVERYWHERE.

This one seems the highest rated on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-SmartGrip-Litter-Gray-Twist/dp/B007SQFRMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371082220&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+mat


The litter cover is a suggestion and your kittens might not like having their special space covered.

I forget what it is specifically, but something in this crystal cat litter helps keep the windows from fogging

https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Step-Crystals-Premium-Clumping/dp/B001OQXEHK

I started using these sifting litter pans and they make doing the litter so much faster and easier.

we got something similar when we moved out of our apartment and bought a house. the crystals do a phenomenal job of trapping the odors and the automatic scoop moves the poop away to a covered section of the tray. one tray will last our 3 cats about a week, and the only downside is that once the crystals become saturated and change color, it'll start to stink fairly fast.

we just came home from vacation and the box went a day or so too long, but it's insanely easy to change so that was the first thing my husband did after we got back.

It's not a lost cause. This is MAGIC

Also, look into the science of what cat pee actually is and you'll understand why bleach/baking soda/vinegar/99% of store bought solutions that claim to get rid of it don't remove the smell completely, just usually mask it. The only thing to break down cat urine is an enzyme cleaner.

This is what we have for our 6 cats. It takes me less than 5 minutes to clean all 8 of them.

Yeah, my cats would refuse to use a small enclosed box like this. They use the Giant Litter Pan from Petmate.

This is the one I use for my two cats:
IRIS Open-Top Cat Litter Box with Clear High-Shield without Scoop, Navy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069Z5PBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BQYXCbE5GJWSM

We have this - it's freaking huge.

https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-22040-Giant-Litter-Bleached/dp/B000HHLVA4/ref=br_lf_m_wxd7duup3qjv9fn_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=pet-supplies

The 'fish tank gravel' is silica crystals, most easily found in cat litter. It acts as a desiccant, drying out the air in the container and hence, the filament.

You can get really cool enclosures to hide the kitty litter and decrease the amount of litter getting spread around. Here are the ones i have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004E8M7PK (i painted this one espresso to match my furniture)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012T6KRU

Plain ol' Tidy Cats red top in the big bucket from Target. Plus this litter mat.

My big kitty (18 lbs) needed a bigger box - he seems to like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HHLVA4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539390208&sr=8-2&keywords=huge+litter+box&dpPl=1&dpID=31aR8B85IqL&ref=plSrch but know that it takes quite a bit of litter to fill it up.

Just buy and lay out a couple of [these](http://www.amazon.com/PetZoom-Park-Indoor-Potty-25-5/dp/B002ZHRTAK "Amazon link") for an instant lawn and tell people to get off of it.

Here is an Amazon version for $25 that is liquid repellant.

With one small litterbox and two cats inevitably they will be stepping on clumps as they pee unless you scoop at least 3 times per day. I assume you scoop when you vacuum but if not, you probably will need to.

​

There are litterboxes with high sides that aren't top-entry. Here is one well-reviewed unit. That's what I currently use now that I have only one cat. I did take the door off, though. Here's another one.

monkey

I'm expecting a lot of "Reddit" social media responses.

I use one that's similar to this. My rats tended to poop in a corner anyway so I initially put the litterbox there. As for pee they generally just go anywhere and everywhere - hence the fleece.

Try this

MidWest Critter Nation Single Level, two level optional depending on budget.

• http://smile.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462676314&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+critter+nation
  
  Space Pod
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=514yBZHbQ1L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Oxbow Regal Rat food
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Oxbow-Regal-Rat-Food-3-Pound/dp/B000GABM1K/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DFDAhgD3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR113%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Water bottles
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/LIXIT-Proof-Glass-Water-Bottle/dp/B0002QI5WM/ref=pd_sim_199_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Wb3MLRcfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR135%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  
  Litter box
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Lock-N-Litter-Small-Colors/dp/B000HG96EI/ref=pd_sim_199_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=517FLhZC5FL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Hammock
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/ProSelectA-Polka-Dot-Cage-Hammocks/dp/B005N11YLK/ref=pd_sim_199_16?ie=UTF8&dpID=51lb4SYKutL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Food bowl
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Kaytee-Stoneware-Hamster-Bowl-Inch/dp/B0040B9NOY/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462676611&sr=1-11&keywords=food+dish

Try this? https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-Stain-Odor-Miracle-Cleaner/dp/B00J4Z5B24

Someone else commented about getting the biggest litter box you can find. Can confirm. My Maine Coon is a monster. Order this one.

enormous poop pan

we got this one! https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-High-Sided-Litter-P-82035/dp/B0087Y5NKS/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1500848847&sr=1-5&keywords=litter+box

We use a honeycomb litter mat with a high-sided litterbox.

Indoor Potty Mats:

http://www.amazon.com/PetZoom-Pet-Park-Indoor-Potty/dp/B002ZHRTAK

Because kitties need to poo.

We use crystal litter

https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Step-Crystals-Premium-Clumping/dp/B001OQXEHK

High sided litter box

You could try this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDU8EW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here, try this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002ZHRTAK?pc_redir=1413260530&robot_redir=1

We also have three cats. We have big ass litter boxes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHLVA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g-1HAbFJHC4XJ.

To get an idea of how big they are, look at the pictures in the reviews of kids sitting in them.

We also use crystal litter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PBCQDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gb2HAb03C2BV3.

We found this litter lasts a ton longer. It's no barrel, but maybe worth checking out.

Hmm, we've bought the "Cat Attract" litter from the same brand and it sounds like it's the same stuff already mixed with litter. She used that for a couple of days then stopped again. But what the hell, I guess it's worth a shot.

https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B000PKY7YA

Don't use vinegar. You need to use a good enzymatic cleaner like This or This.

If your cat is peeing where he isn't supposed to then he might be trying to tell you something. It could be that he needs to see the vet for a UTI or other related urinary issue. It could also be because he feels there is a threat outside. Are there any new animals or people that have been hanging around? Cat's will use urine to mark territory sometimes and even neutered cats will do this from time to time if they feel threatened.

Keep taking her for walks and give her tons of praise when she actually goes outside. If you catch her going in the house make a loud noise or say no and take her immediately outside. If you don't catch her in the act/within 30 seconds of the act, punishing her for going in the house can have negative impact on the training because she doesn't know why she's getting in trouble.
You can also try a grass pad and encourage her with treats/praise to go on that if she won't go outside, it will at least save your carpet.

I just got this box http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HG96EI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_W0eXtb0WT5HVZ and zip tied it to the side of the cage. He figured out after a couple of weeks that he couldn't move it any more and just stopped trying.

Unfortunately the cheapest litter robot is $349. I think I'm going to go with the ScoopFree.

My cat is the same, except he'll poop in the box once per litter change. I could go and scoop the turd seconds after it lands, and he still will shit on the floor until I change out all of the litter. All of that would be manageable if I could just use a small bit of litter, but noooooooo...Princess and the Poop needs a thick and lush pile, otherwise he'll pee everywhere. So, we've had the choice between picking up turds off the bathroom floor, or dealing with pee anywhere in the house.

The real game changer was this litter box, for some reason. I don't even clean it more often, but somehow he's able to poop in it three days in a row without cleaning it, so that's nice.

I've got a 10lb rabbit bonded to a 4lb, I use something this size, but not this exact box since the one I ordered is no longer in stock.

I line the litter box with generic puppy pee pads, but newspaper works too! If you change it out regularly it leaves minimal cleaning of the actual box itself.

I bought this catbox cabinet and screwed in some of those child proofing cabinet door latches. This thing is really long, so if you push the litter box all the way to the back and put a litter mat inside and out most of the litter will get caught.

I also caulked the seams where the wood pieces come together to keep it from leaking if there were any messes outside the box.

I got [this] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPZ63Q8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) cat litter mat and just cut it to the right size. It's really simple, it traps their poops and keeps them in that area, I put some paper towel under/in it to absorb the pee. You just pick up the whole thing and dump the poops in the trash and replace the paper towels and maybe rinse it off when it needs to be cleaned.

Try this brand.

When I switched very slowly to a closed litter box system, my older cat defiantly took a poo on the carpet. This litter automatically had him going into the designated litter box and he's had no problems since.

You can get inexpensive boxes with a sidewall like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/IRIS-Open-Top-Litter-Shield-Scoop/dp/B002BDU8EW/

It's a little small for big cats but will do for kittens and regular sized cats. Catboxes with hoods are generally not recommended because they tend to be small and capture dust from scratching. Plus, it's not fun to hunch over while shitting.

That's been considered, but she never hurries to do anything.
She'll turn around a few times and seems to sniff around the litter before taking a piss, and when she poops she hops in, digs her mound of litter, then poops on it, taking her time to ensure her bowels are fully empty.
The weird part is she does this pawing of the ramp and sides before she goes off to do other kitty things
Other weirdness she does is she'll squat to pee, but to poop she kinda stands and arches her back

We've got this Scoopfree box, but privacy hood removed because she's never been shy(was changing tray once and she hopped in and started peeing before I'd put the box back down) and litter wasn't drying out properly(research implies it's an issue with the privacy hood trapping humidity)

So, I'm assuming you're like me and have already gone online and did a bunch of research before asking here. If your cat cleared the vet check and you've done all the things the blogs have said (change the litter often, enzyme cleaner, blocked access off to the pee areas, removed stressors like neighborhood cats, etc), then I suggest a) changing the size/type of litter box to either a larger one or one that has a lower entry, and b) use cat attract. https://smile.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B000PKY7YA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496968977&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+attract

I did everything, and my cats checked out fine, but for 6 months they terrorized my poor floors, always in the same spots. I used enzyme cleaner, but they'd just return... I used tape, foil, etc and they'd pee just right on it. At one point I blocked off all their pee areas for a month, and they used the boxes fine, but as soon as they were allowed access they found new spots in the areas. I changed out the top-entry boxes we had been using for 6+ years (same style, not the exact same box) to lower ones, and that helped, but it didn't fix all of it. The lower boxes + cat attract did it.

I tried to change back to the top-entry boxes with cat attract, but them cats wouldn't have it... Sigh. But that worked for us - lower boxes and cat attract.

> Mine puke when I put more food in their bowl.

One of ours did this. He would gorge on the new food and vomit it up five minutes later, to the delight of our other one. This fixed that. Now he only vomits hairballs and people food, when he is able to sneak some.

>My gfs cat pisses high in the litter box

We had this problem too, and one of our cats rejects covered litterboxes (probably the same little shit who pisses too high). These fixed it.

hey, i actually had the same problem with my cat no matter what i tried ie peeing in front of door, on floor of cage, in bathtub, etc. i was ready to give him away because i couldn't stand it anymore.

out of desperation, i tried this litter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PKY7YA/ref=pe_2640190_232586610_pd_te_s_rp_im/143-3917075-9626860?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000PKY7YA&pd_rd_r=S079S5VPE7AZ6H3B4CCH&pd_rd_w=JQz3E&pd_rd_wg=SKC3y&pf_rd_i=email-ship-confirmation&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3227214142&pf_rd_r=S079S5VPE7AZ6H3B4CCH&pf_rd_s=email-ship-confirmation&pf_rd_t=40701 . Didn't expect ANYTHING to come of it, but immediately after I switched, he stopped peeing on the floor. I'm not sure why he changed so all of a sudden, but as of 6 months ago, he's had no accidents whatsoever.