(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electrical equipment

First thing anyone should buy is Deluxe Audio Strap. Can't stress that enough.

Vive-N-Chill is also really useful. It may seem silly, but it actually works really well. When I use any other headset for active gaming I really miss it.

Hyperskin covers for the controllers are awesome, comfortable, add grip and help with the occasional wall scrape. Though personally I ditched the headset one as I feel like it may trap in heat. Does look cool though. But the controller ones are a must have.

One of my absolute favorite VR accessories: 1" MMA floor tiles. Worth every penny. Way better than any thinner solutions and you can really kneel/roll around on the ground comfortably and stand for hours on it. Can be disassembled for transport and does not slide on carpet. They seem to be holding up to heavy duty long term use so well they should last for years through multiple generations of headsets.

My favorite face cushion for personal use is the stock foam one. Comfortable, breathes, and absorbs moisture and wicks it away. Nice to break out the fancy faux-leather ones for guests and stuff, but the original stock ones are the best for serious game sessions, at least in my opinion. Just hand wash it on occasion.

These guitar hangers are cheap and awesome for hanging controllers from when paired with some 10 foot usb micro cables for charging. Maybe not as cool looking as the special charging stand, but a whole bunch of pairs are great for different VR controllers if you have more than just a pair to deal with.

And, if/when you ever tire of the Base Stations' function to remotely power up/down automatically being fussy, slow or intermittent, then remote power outlets will make you happy. They make the base stations spring to life and sync in a few seconds compared to the slow blue tooth routine and power off when you want them off.

I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.

In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.

I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.

In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.

• 1 is a dimmer w/ motion sensor... I use it for the ceiling fixture to come on automatically at 50% brightness (if the room is dark enough). It also turns the light off automatically.
  
  
• 1 is a fan controller with a built-in timer. This thing is great. I set it to a 30-minute default countdown when turned on. The time can be adjusted from 5-60 minutes. Double tapping the fan switch turns it on until someone turns it off.
  
  
• 1 is a plain switch to control the vanity mirror light bar. Manual on/off... that’s it.
  
  The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
  
  The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
  
  In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
  
  In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
  
  One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
  
  *EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...

Here are my thoughts:

• HomeKit is definitely the correct choice for ease of use and privacy
  
• plugs are easy to install, can be used for a variety of things, do not require any modification of the home, and doesn't introduce confusion with wall light switches. My recommendations are the Satechi Dual Smart Plug (two- smart outlets that don't block an outlet and monitoring) and the VOCOlinc SmartBar (cheaper and doesn't block an outlet, but only one smart outlet)
  
• get smart bulbs if you don't want to mess with wiring. The HUE are probably the best, and the IKEA are probably a more attractive price. Don't get too many color bulbs until you try one. The use of color in bulbs grows old after three days of "coolness". Wi-Fi bulbs will not require a bridge from the manufacturer. HOWEVER, you may want to consider something with bridge (like the HUE or IKEA). The bridge will have better performance due to how HomeKit communications work, and it might be better if you are in an apartment with congested Wi-Fi signals
  
• The Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmeris plugs into your outlet for connecting lamps that you want to dim
  
• If you don't mind wiring, (its so easy to do that you could easily remove them when you move out) I highly recommend the Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Dimmer Switch. Rock solid and fast and easy to install. Its the best for lights because you don't have figure out the physical "switch" problem, and anybody can still use the lights in the apartment without having access to HomeKit.
  
• An AppleTV for your hub
  
  ​
  
  That should get you going!

Here are some of my personal supplies and tool recommendations.

An anti-corrosive spray, doesn’t hurt paint but I’d be careful about yours anyway.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1C8UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_5v0NDb496VPF6

A good tire pressure gauge. www.amazon.com/dp/B01J8DLGU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_dy0NDb58BP0WX

A basic multimeter. www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V

A great battery tender, a lifetime purchase. www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITKCE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ACFQCb40H0E0K

A very good spray on bike cleaner. www.amazon.com/dp/B0036GK83Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_XB0NDbJZZC76W

A good explanation about testing your battery and charging system, goes well with the multimeter and tender.

https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik

These screwdrivers or ones like it are a must. www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7WAHTU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_i_c_kBB7AbGCN238A

A winter storage checklist, very detailed, and can probably pare it down a little but...

http://www.clarity.net/~adam/winter-storage.html

The best (IMO) winter gas treatment. www.amazon.com/dp/B001CAW2DK/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_ryNKDb9RRE8KF

One of many easy to use lift, works for both front or rear, may have a model for a smaller bike, this is for my Yamaha Raider www.amazon.com/dp/B016Z01QYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UH0NDbVMTEC9K

A great totally enclosed cover, find the size for your bike. I attach the battery tender, the cord comes out where the zipper meets.
www.amazon.com/dp/B001I7XYZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sJ0NDbTJAPEEB

For maintenance questions, a great sub is r/Fixxit.

That’s all I can think of at the moment, welcome to the Club and Happy Trails!

I have the Wink hub and like it. I don't know how it compares to Smart Things. Some people, myself included, have had an issue where communication breaks down between HA and Wink, and HA stops displaying the current state of items, but I think that will be fixed in the next release.
The only reason I did that instead of a USB stick is that I started my home automation with Wink, and only tried Home Assistant when I saw how much more robust of a platform it was. That said, I do find it easier to add things to Wink than to HA, so that's a bonus. I also use these little remotes a few places: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK/ And I don't know if they can be connected directly to HA yet.
Basically I use HA for most of my automations, but I use Wink for manual control of my items, whether I'm home or away.
However, it gets a little messy when I start adding things directly to HA because they're not Wink-compatible. Currently I have a Wifi plug that's not controllable by Wink and a Xioami hub with a couple of items hooked up to it, so I can no longer rely exclusively on the Wink hub for manual control.
Still, I like the hub, and I like the app, and since HA is doing all the automation from a Raspberry Pi, I never had to root it.

My guess is that you could do almost all of the same things using a HA installation with the right USB stick, but I still like Wink because I can get stuff added and working more quickly.

****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***

Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.

Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot

Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor

Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.

Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).

USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.

Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)

Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything

32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.

Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.


You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com


To summarize the connections are:

Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.

Advanced/box mod starter setup.

For an OKR-T10 mod.

I should mention that, yes, I am friends with /u/DBLiquids, but I am not doing this at his request. This is my own doing, and for fairness I also linked to a second Duke vendor as well.

Here for the Duke, curently the product has been removoed from the site due to some issues with the shopping cart.
here for the Duke again,
and here (again) for the Zorro.

The Zorro is a passthrough you will not need any batteries for this as it comes with a power supply. As for batteries for the Duke look for 10 amp 2900 mAh batteries from here. They must be niple top for ease of use.

I am going to stop here, and go over some battery safety with you.

1. When you stack batteries like this you need to swap positions.
   
2. These batteries are now paired for life after their first use together.
   
3. They also need to be at the same age.
   
4. Number of discharge cycles.
   
5. Same charge level. So if one battery is at 4.0 and the other is at 3.5 you have a problem. If they are within .1 volt of each other you are fine.
   
6. Number them. This way you can keep track of what position each battery is in with each use.
   
   For a charger my top three suggestions are in order:
   
   
7. Xtar VP1
   
8. Xtar VP2
   
9. Nightcore i4
   
   As for an atomizer you should get a TOBH, an iGo-W or iGo-W 4.
   
   Kanthal you can get from Amazon. I would suggest the 28 gauge that I linked.
   
   Something to wrap around, multimeter, screwdrivers, tweezers, pliers, cotton, and large butane torch. I will not link these as you either have them already, or they can be easily sourced locally at either your local hardware store or drug emporium.
   
   First side note on the cotton just make sure that it is bleached with hydrogen peroxide and not bleach. Organic or bleached with hydrogen peroxide are both fine. Boil if you want, but it is not necessary.
   
   Second side note The prices for the batteries and chargers are manufacture direct. Amazon is your friend if you want a better price. look at Illumination Supply will also be a good source for batteries if you want to price hunt.

Here's what you asked for

Hub:
Wink Hub 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D2e7ybH4AEXCA

Bulbs:
Hue White Ambiance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESW34RQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_B0e7ybX5B7KF0

Lock:
August Smart Lock (2nd Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_R3e7ybSK95NFG

Outlets:
GE Z-Wave Wireless Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_04e7ybQXPB1TX

Based on what you said about a nice slick UI I think the Wink 2 wins that battle over a Samsung Smart Things hub. Plus if you get into adding shades Lutron makes a nice z wave shade called the Serena and the Wink 2 can operate Lutron devices without needing another hub. It's not as customizable as Smart Things, but I think it works well and has good support behind it.

The Hue Ambiance bulbs are nice, does tons of white light shades only so it fits your requirements there. You will need a Hue bridge, but that integrates with the Wink 2 nicely.

If you can get the August lock with Z-wave functionality I'd go with that over what I linked because I think the normal August is pretty shit, but it's the only lock I know of where you can assign one time use codes or time sensitive ones. Getting the normal (Bluetooth) August lock online requires the August Connect and its a buggy piece of shit that barely works even with the best connection and very close to the lock. Maybe software will\has fixed it but in my prior experience with it I was very not impressed. You can also add a keypad to the August on the secured side of the door. All those extras add up though, but you can do everything you said was required with the August that I believe no other lock can do.

The outlets are pretty self explanatory, work off Z-wave and only one plug is automated the other is always on.

Alexa can integrate with everything I listed, all you need to do is give everything a unique name and have her find the smart home devices and you can give simple commands like, "Alexa turn off kitchen light" and it'll do it.

You could definitely get more complicated setups but all of these things will work together, you could even pair your Ecobee with the Wink 2 if you wanted to.

I thought I'd share my experience for the community, and hopefully my experiences help or encourage others to give this a shot on their own. I had absolutely no experience growing anything when I started, so if I can do it, so can anyone else!

I've got an equipment list of the stuff I'm using since it took me a long time to figure out what to buy. This doesn't include the $1.50/week for RO water from the local grocery store, the electricity, or the other stuff I ended up buying afterward for my clones.

No grow tent or ventiliation is needed for my scenario since I have full access to a basement. It's perfect since there is a water heater and a boiler in the same room so the temp is always pretty constant, there is plenty of CO2 from the gas that the appliances burn, and the humidity is also pretty constant.

A few of the mistakes I made that I'd fix next time:

• Buying a heating mat for germination/clones. I only got 1 out of 5 seeds to germinate, and thankfully that one turned into a good plant. I think heat was where I went wrong since I also tried to do clones without a mat and none of them rooted. When using the mat I bought, I had much, much better success.
  
  
• After transplanting my germinated seed, I let that plant go too long in a small container and it got a little root bound. Should have transplanted sooner.
  
  
• I was in the veg stage longer than I think I needed to. Went on vacation in the middle and that screwed up my schedule a little bit, but I think I'd be better off with less veg time for the next plant
  
  
• Buy a better pH pen. I cheaped out on that and I've never gotten it calibrated correctly, so I've been using the dropper/eye test method with the General Hydro test kit that comes with the pH Up/Down. That method seems to work just fine, but it's kind of a hassle.
  
  The images have some details about my grow, but I'll be happy to answer any other questions folks might have.
  
  Item | Cost | Product Link
  ---|---|----
  Seeds (OG Kush Feminized, 20ct) | $80 | Marijuana Seeds NL
  Coco Coir | $17 | Kempf Coco
  300W LED Lighting | $80 | GalaxyHydro
  Plastic Pot | $0 | Craigslist - Free
  Light Timers | $12 | Light Timers
  pH Tester | $18 | pH Pen
  pH Up and Down | $16 | General Hydro
  Jeweler's Loupe | $6 | Magnify Me
  Nutes | $35 | Canna Coco 1 & 2
  Perlite | $13 | Black Gold
  CalMag | $17 | Botanicare Supplement
  TOTAL | $294
  
  
  Also, THANK YOU to everyone in this sub. There is a ton of info out there about growing, but this place is the best location I found for timely info related to my new hobby.
  

When first getting into mechs there are a few costs that are unavoidable. They are as follows:

Good batteries

Sony VTC5 or VTC4 from illumn.com or another trustworthy battery supplier.

A good charger

Nitecore i2, Nitecore i4, Efest LUC v4, or Xtar brand chargers.

Ohmmeter

 http://www.fasttech.com/product/1519800-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter

Kanthal

28 gauge
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FBSVQX6?cache=38a824a0030f01bef8e0aaea10a9fb59&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1411501324&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

24 gauge
 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K22JQ2E?cache=38a824a0030f01bef8e0aaea10a9fb59&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1411501449&sr=8-6#ref=mp_s_a_1_6

Organic cotton balls or rayon (sold as cellucotton 100% rayon)

This stuff will need to be bought no mater what mechanical mod you get (Gauge of kanthal can be different sizes)

Now for the fun part, picking mods. The nemesis is a solid performer.

Nemesis

 http://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009160/1604509


This should immediately be done to the switch. It is the best modification that I have ever made and it is free.

http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1yczcg/my_fix_for_the_nemesis_button_and_how_to_shorten/


Switch Magnets

 http://www.fasttech.com/products/3099/10005773/1558901-switch-magnets-for-nemesis-mod-10-pack


If you want power regulation you can use a kick module which regulates wattage between 5 and 12 watts.


Kick Module

 http://www.fasttech.com/products/3099/10006524/1501000-variable-wattage-kick-module-for-mechanical-mod-pv


If you are using a kick then you don't need to worry about voltage drop, but if you are going for more than 12 watts (which you are most likely going to do unless you are using a kayfun or clearo) copper tape will reduce voltage drop significantly.


Copper Tape

 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CBPK0FW?cache=38a824a0030f01bef8e0aaea10a9fb59&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1411500089&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1


Also optional, to reduce voltage drop and overall length of your mod. This one is specifically made to fit the nemesis and kayfun.

Nemesis Hybrid Connector

 http://www.fasttech.com/products/3023/10009156/1662400

I use one of these to connect the nemesis in 18350 mode with a kayfun 3.1. It stands at 4 inches tall and is great for putting in your pocket when you're out drinking, causing trouble, or whatever it is that the kids are doing these days.

If you are looking for something a little cheaper to just get the feel of a mech, I started with an M16 telescopic mod.

 http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10005307/1627200-sentinel-m16-style-telescopic-mechanical-mod

You won't be able to put a kick in it or use copper tape and it is made mostly out of aluminum, but it is a solid mod to start with and can take 18350-18650 batteries. Any 18350 batteries that you get should be AW IMR or purple Efest batteries.


Of course you will need an atomizer to go with your new mech. Most 3 post drippers are good to start out with. I prefer the IGO-M because of the large air holes and 2 screw positive block, but there are a lot of options for drippers. The Kayfun 3.1 is usually a good starter rebuildable tank atomizer (RTA)


And last, but not least, we get to battery safety and types of mods. Godofsteam.wordpress.com/intro-to-vaping/ is the best site that I have ever visited for research into mechs and rebuildables. It should be all you need to help you get started.

The step up to claptons from regular wire is a big one. You'll get even better performance out of fused claptons, but the difference isn't as large as you'll see when you transition from regular to clapton. Super fancy builds are usually on par with fused claptons, but they're pretty much just for show despite what they say on the YouTubes.

It doesn't have to be expensive, though. Just buy a couple rolls of cheap wire on Amazon (I recommend TEMCo), grab the nearest drill, and spend some time learning to make your own. Your first few will suck, but the next few will be functional, and then after the first dozen or so it'll be pretty easy. A 250-ft spool will last you a long, long time for all of about $7.

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1485384791&sr=8-7

Stainless is all I use. It's a bit finicky, yeah, but it's the best TC-capable wire for flavor and safety. Nickel has safety concerns regarding nickel poisoning, is a soft metal which makes it more difficult to work with, and can't be dry burned. Titanium has safety concerns with respect to titanium oxide, tastes weird (to me), and can't be dry burned. Stainless has none of those issues, but is tricky to get working correctly until you get the hang of it.

So my 2 cents would be to go with a combination of Lutron and Hue. I'm very particular and insistent on having the same design language for things like faceplates, switches, appliances etc.

Lutron Caséta switches are quite nice. They work well as everyone has stated, but obviously lack color changing options. This is where Phillips Hue and the Lutron Connected bulb remote come in. Lutron makes a Zigbee pico remote that can control hue lights and can be mounted to look exactly like any other Caséta switch! You Just need the Pico wall bracket.

http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products/Pages/Components/ConnectedBulbRemoteControl/Overview.aspx

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA


This seriously was a game-changer for me as it allows for a very dynamic smart home environment. I would use Hue for everything except for the fact that some of my lights (Dining room chandelier and other special light fixtures) don't have a hue bulb in their size or wouldn't look good since they are exposed.

Another really awesome feature if you have Sonos is they have a Sonos pico remote as well! So when I walk into my dining room, I can turn to the faceplate (with all nice looking, standardized switches) Turn on my Caseta dining room chandelier, my Bar lights (hue color strip), and press play on my dining room Sonos!!

http://www.casetawireless.com/Pages/sonos.aspx

No lie, I swapped every single Leviton Z-wave switch out for these. The flexibility of adding 3-ways, and placing switches wherever you want is seriously fantastic and can't recommend it enough.

Using Amazon links only...

My favorite RDA right now (although I own the authentic, this should be good enough, as I've never really had issues with clone RDAs): http://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-RDA-Clone/dp/B00OWKB3GE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420579323&sr=8-2&keywords=vulcan+rda Also look at TOBH Atty v2.5, Plumeveil, and Mephisto. All good clone atomizers!

As for mods, it pretty much comes down the which one you find aesthetically pleasing. Some off the top of my head you can look for are Nemesis, Stingray, Stingray X, Caravela, 4Nine... They often come in varying finishes (stainless being the most common, but you'll also see gold, copper, black). Nemesis and 4Nine tend to be on the cheaper side, but I found this Caravela for only $21.99 on Amazon for you: http://www.amazon.com/Caravela-Mechanical-Clone-Stainless-Steel/dp/B00OBUD6SS/ref=sr_1_10?s=miscellaneous&ie=UTF8&qid=1420579698&sr=1-10&keywords=mechanical+mod

Then I would recommend picking up one or two 18650 batteries, either Sony VTC4 or Samsung 25r (I own and use both). Rolled organic cotton from CVS pharmacy (will last you years), kanthal wire for rebuilding your coils (I use Temco: http://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-Wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1420579851&sr=8-3&keywords=kanthal+26g ), and an ohm meter to ensure safe builds: http://www.amazon.com/Resistance-Reader-Meter-Rebuilding-Atomizer/dp/B00KI0BMMC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420579903&sr=8-1&keywords=ohm+reader

Hope this helps! Btw, Youtube is your FRIEND! How I learned everything, just watched videos for whatever I was looking to do.

If you don't mind adding another hub you should check out Lutron Caseta. They are a bit more expensive than GE and Insteon but they're reliable and work well with HomeKit and Alexa. You can make scenes in the Caseta app and both the Home app and the Alexa app will be able to use the scenes that you created.

As for a fan switch the only option that works with HomeKit and Alexa is the Caseta Multi-Location Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_JZVyybFAGHSZQ

This wont be able to change the fan speed but it lets you turn the fan on and off.

As for setting scenes with the touch of a button, you could get a Harmony hub and some pop switches. The Harmony doesn't play well with HomeKit but it's pretty cool with Alexa. Although the app is kind of counter intuitive, it works well once you get it the way you want it.

Harmony Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3RFC4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_I7VyybF2F7VWZ

Pop Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JO8TLMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_g6VyybPZPFZ51

You could try fishing a neutral wire from the ceiling fixturewall outlet to the switchbox. I've done it in my house, but I don't know if I would try it in an apartment.

Alternative products: Since this switch controls an outlet, it's against code to use a dimmer switch on it. And dimmer switches are the only "smart" products I'm aware of that can operate without a neutral.

You're probably better off replacing the wall outlet with a smart outlet or any smart wall wart. Here's GE's in-wall smart outlet since you seem to be leaning toward zwave already.

You can control that smart outlet with something like GE's wall controller or velcro an aeotec minimote to the wall and use that. Even better - you could use an Amazon Echo for control - I rarely physically interact with smart switches since I got a modicum of automation running and a few Echos around the house for voice control.

/u/DrkMith Your post is super clear, and incredibly helpful. Yes, I do run the fan on occasion for circulation. That add-a-wire device seems like magic; very cool and handy and seems like my best option. I watched the video, it's within my capabilities I believe. If you've installed them before, any advice or watchouts?

One other note, if all I need is the C wire to the nest to get the setup to work, could I instead use a 24vac transformer connected to a normal outlet? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Im6QDbHZ0Y450

Thank you for your expertise on this.

What batteries do you have? I have a stingray and an igo-w and with my vtc4s it works fine, but with my 1600 mah efests it won't fire because the insulation on the battery covers some of the 510 connection. I think there is the same issue with the efest 35 amp only with the firing button, I don't know for sure.

So to be safe I'd recommend sony vtc4s or 5's with the stingray. And the igo is great but I think the Omega would be better since it has adjustable airflow. The intellicharger i2 is cheap and good. For the kanthal I think 28 would be the most versatile.

The stillare clone would be great too.

I suspect that's part of it, and it's definitely worth it to me. The signal input is very flexible. I suspect the other part is Z-wave is a proprietary protocol and requires license. Finally, it's not exactly a high-volume device.

I think the mimolite is way more polished than other options. I wish their marketing would have more examples highlighting the possibilities. It can trigger on power loss, it can trigger when voltage is within a certain configurable range, or outside of a certain configurable range, it can use the signal to toggle the relay locally, it can use the signal to control other devices, it can be polled for signal or report on a configurable timed basis.

I have 2 of these, one for my garage door ( http://imgur.com/a/db2tQ ) and one for my doorbell ( http://imgur.com/a/fzUE3 )

Sure, this could have also done this with an AVR and an esp8266 for some awesome franken-MQTT device, but until I can set up a bench, this is much easier and faster to set up... and much easier to recommend.

If you just need a z-wave dry contact relay, there are other less pricey options. These would be great for something like low voltage zoned lighting, a fireplace, or electronic shut-off valve.

http://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22

http://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/

An important feature these options lack is a mode for momentary contact, which is handy when interfacing with buttons like a garage door, electric latch, or gate controller.

Hahah. No prob man. I'm always willing to help out a fellow vaper, especially someone in the military. 3 of my best friends served a year in Iraq and two of them are now Rangers. Anything I can do to help make your time pass easier would be my pleasure. First off, you don't need a butane lighter for the kanthal. That's not necessary at all. I don't torch any of my wire before putting it in. Usually you would use that to oxidize SS mesh before using. The first thing I mentioned was the V4 Fogger. You can buy this here( http://www.eciggity.com/fogger-v4-1-v4-4/ ) since it is sold out on Fasttech. I would also buy a replacement tank for this since it is glass. You can buy a couple of them since they are on Fasttech for only $1.80 each, just add it to your order(I would prob buy 5 just in case. It's overboard, but just in case). Next you can buy 100ft of 28g kanthal wire here: http://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Kanthal-Wire-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6 . Next is the cotton. You can buy organic or sterile cotton. You can find this at CVS or Walgreens. I would buy about 3 bags of this just in case. If you run out, I'm sure the base that you will be stationed at would have a couple of hand fulls for you. As for other devices, not sure what you are into. Drippers are good for clouds but you have to keep dripping on them intermittently. Kayfuns/Russians are good for the tighter draw if that's what you are into. You can find these clones on fasttech as well for a decent price. Last but not least, an ohm tester: http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10006334/1494601-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter . Let me know some other questions that you have. Also, how long you going for?

I did this exactly in my backyard. I threw one of the more expensive Caseta dimmers INSIDE a weatherproof box outside and hard wired my patio lights into the junction box. It could have just as easily been the cheaper dimmer or the regular 6A switch and not the dimmer and it would have worked just as well. I spent a little more on the more expensive dimmer because the load was so low with the patio lights (20w total) that I didn't want any flickering or weirdness. I hardwired only because I didn't NEED a dimmable outlet, but you could also just as easily put a receptacle after the dimmer/switch.

​

I say all that just to let you know what you are asking for is entirely doable, like cduff77 mentioned, just get the plug-in dimmer, tie off the wall switch so it's always on and replace it with a wall mounted pico pemote. The whole thing will run you about $75 but it is well worth it.

​

Lutron hit it out of the PARK with Caseta, it's the most reliable smart device I have, and I have a ton (Ring Doorbell, August Lock, Philip's Hue, EcoBee Thermostat). All they need is to come out with a multi-speed fan controller and a couple of smart outlets (Controllable with Picos, just like you want) and they will own the game.

I have had the 9500ix for 4+ years now and it's been working pretty well. It's saved me from at least 4-5 tickets. As /u/13489194 stated below though, there are newer models out there that work better and are worth a few extra bucks. What I've noticed in the past few years is a very annoying increase in false positives with all the new cars that have side radar blind spot detection.

I mounted mine up on the top of the windshield a few inches below the headliner and to the right of the rearview mirror. It doesn't obstruct my view, and only prevents the passenger sunshade from fully opening a bit.

What you want to do is get a hardwire cable, a tap-a-fuse, and a trim tool and just gently pull on the trim and use the plastic trim tool (aka bone tool) to push the wire in behind the trim, down the A-pillar, and then into the fuse box. Not sure about the S6, but on my A5, it made it easier getting it down the A pillar to remove the "Airbag" plastic cover piece that covers up a Torx screw, and slightly unscrew the cover over the pillar so you can more easily fish it in.

Hardwire that bad boy into a fuse that is only on when the car's ignition is on, such as the Homelink Garage door opening or something. I dunno about the S6, but on my A5 there are fuse panels on both the passenger and driver's side. I put mine on the driver's side so that I can mount the little mute button assembly w/ the included velcro right below the headlight switch assembly. I can easily and quickly mute it as well as see the flashing light while driving.

Some stuff I'd recommend:

Escort Max 360 Detector

Hardwire adapter unit (no need for the bluetooth one as the Max has bluetooth built into it now)

Tape a fuse

Trim tools to fish the wire in

Other common tools you'll need would be a screwdriver, Wire Crimper/Stripper, and a socket to punch down the ground connection in the fuse panel.

Also, you'll want to be running the Waze application when driving as it will notify you of police locations reported by users. That's saved me a lot, especially when they aren't using radar or are using laser.

Yeah it's been a tough year for sure. The light's at the end of the tunnel though, so I'm pumped about that.

I was doing a bit more digging and it looks like Lutron has a dual switch (although they use their own proprietary protocol and I'm not sure what HUB you have just re-read the thread - I'm honestly not too familiar with the setup you have outside ST):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/

Anyway, best of luck and happy to help in any way I can!

Eric

Hi!

First off, congrats on wanting to quit. = )

I have this Kayfun 3.1 (the one on the left, though that isn't my pic), which I believe is Tobeco. I say believe because I got it from a local B&M. I know the owners and it's what they use so I didn't bother to ask as I knew it would work. I've had absolutely no problems with it whatsoever and love it. Best flavors I've ever had, super easy to rebuild once you get the hang of it, no leaks, threads are like butter.

Getting a 3.1 over the Lite was just a choice of how much juice I wanted to carry.

I got my wire from here and bought organic cotton from Walgreens.

As far as juice goes, if you're trying to save some money I'd suggest Mt Baker Vapor. There's a post I saved from someone here who ordered an obscene amount of Mt Baker juice for under $100 and I can find it if you want because it came down to bottle size. I'm sure you'll get plenty of other great recommendations.

As everyone else has said, you don't want those batteries nor that charger. They are unsafe to use in a mechanical mod, and that charger will either crap out on you or break within a few months. You'll also need an ohmmeter to check the resistance of your builds, kanthal for your coils and something for wicks. Recommendations below:

1. Batteries: Most important thing not to skimp on. The best batteries that are readily available are the LG HE2 and the Samsung 25R.
   
2. Charger: The charger is also quite important. The one you have is one of the brands no one likes because of its reliability. It will likely break within a month. Consider doing yourself a favor and purchasing a Nitecore Intellicharger. These are very commonly used because they work great, and are made by a trustworthy brand.
   
3. Ohmmeter: Another crucial part of the process. You need this in order to make sure whatever you're building is safe. You can pick up a cheap one from Fasttech here.
   
4. Wire: You'll obviously need some wire to build your coils. To start with, get some 26 and 28 gauge kanthal. This will allow some flexibility in your builds, and allow you to start experimenting. You can get 26ga here and 28ga here
   
5. Wick: Here's one thing that is personal preference. Personally I like to use Japanese cotton pads, but a lot of people use either rayon or organic cotton balls.
   
   I know it seems like a lot to take in at first, but it'll be worth it once you get everything and it's nice high quality stuff to last you.

You can get ROLLS of remote controllable LED lights online. My husband and I use them for lighting our computer cases for instance. Just do a little research in the reviews to make sure people have a good experience with their safety and longevity for the price. https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Controller-44-button/dp/B0040FJ27S

If you are looking for an easy solution around 100 to 200 give philips HUE a try? You can control with your phone and they have a couple of products that provide ambient lighting. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-259945-Bloom-Frustration-Free/dp/B00I12YFP0/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41j4KdlKf9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=YGM42E2837A7BAV7AW3M and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0W3CI0/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_6 and they have lots of other hue products too.

You could build up a crown moulding with a small shelf before the ceiling then line it with rope lighting to create a lit ceiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSHR6mfbRE

You could buy a couple of lamps from ikea, craigslist, marshalls, tj max, home goods, then put lower wattage lights (40w or 25w) in them on the 2700 (warmer) side of the spectrum. Dimmable lamps would be a plus just make sure the bulbs are dimmable too. They could be standard lamps, wall mounted plug in lamps, pendants you plug in then hang from the ceiling or even something more zen like a salt lamp: https://www.amazon.com/YYout-Himalayan-Crystal-Dimmable-Electric/dp/B01DP47SDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469690772&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dimmable+salt+lamp&psc=1


You can put any pluggable light on a remote with a light switch remote. They can be pretty handy... Or the clapper lol. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469690399&sr=1-7&keywords=plug+remote

Yes, I use the Lutron connected remotes with Hue exclusively and they work great. A fantastic workaround for the lack of a true on-wall switch for Hue products which is existing gang plate friendly.

Sure, you can use the Hue dimmer but it looks out of place when next to an existing light switch.

Installation is simple. The important part is to pair the remote to the Hue hub to get the remote on the same zigbee channel. It won't show up in the Hue app so it won't be obvious if the pairing was successful. This makes sure the bulb stays connected to he Hue hub after the remote pairs with the bulb.

For instructions on pairing, check the #3 top rated customer review on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014STZASK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482202187&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=lutron+connected+bulb+remote&dpPl=1&dpID=310BUkrwnfL&ref=plSrch

Tent: TopoGrow 2-in-1 Indoor Grow Tent 108"X48"X80"

Lights: Three of these: MARS HYDRO 960w, apparently they just came out with a 2nd version of these at 900w, so here's that link

Soil:Fox Farm FX14054 Happy Frog Potting Soil

Pots:Fabric Pots
Humidifier:3.5G humidifier

Fan: basic large oscilating fan

Exhaust:AC Infinity CLOUDLINE T6
CO2 Bag: Exhale 365

Fertilizers: Technaflora Recipe for Success Starter Kit
Timers: Basic ones

Basil Seeds: because basil is fucking delicious

let me know if you all see anything extra i need or anything you think i could improve on!

Thanks again for the help!

I just switched to 12/12 from 24/0, started the flowering formula for the nutrients, and switched on the "bloom" light on the lights.

Smart switches are probably the best in MOST situations.

The reasons to go with a bulb (In my opinion) are:

1. A lamp, since there is no switch to be used there
   
   
2. A very poorly located switch that you won't really ever be interacting with anyways. Then it's kinda a toss up. Though you can get switch which also have a remote, so you can put a smart switch on in this case, and mount the remote on the wall in a better location. This is also a way to make a single pole switch into a "dual pole switch" without any rewiring.
   
   
3. You want some of the features that only a smart bulb can give you, such as color or temperature changing.
   
   If you do go with bulb there are some ways to get around some of the problems of the switch behavior with smart bulbs:
   
   
4. My hue bulbs do come back on at full brightness when power is restored after being cut, meaning that if I need to get some light in the room and I don't care about color, temp brightness etc just flicking the switch off and on turn them on. Not a great solution but ok when you need to flick alight on in a hurry to find something. Note though that this is a reason not to put Hue bulb in a bedroom, if the power goes out in the middle of the night and comes back on your bedrooms lights goe to full brightness, not so nice.
   
   
5. Another way to use 'switches' and bulbs is to wire the bulb to be always on, and then wall mount a remote inplace of the switch plate.
   
   
6. Another ooption (That i haven't tested but have been told works) is somehting like this which you can place over a regular light switch. So you flick the switch on, and then cover it with this to control the lights. This has the advantage of more easily cutting the power to the fixture incase you need to for some reason.
   
   I asked a question recently about switches to use with Hue bulbs here
   
   

Depends if you're interested in the 18650 mechanical mods or more like box mods.

If you started on a kanger tank of any kind, most would consider a Nautilus an upgrade. But venturing further the Kayfun is probably a better option if you take the time to build and learn.

As for mods; You could use a Nautilus on an MVP 2.0 for a box mod. All the way up to DNA chip mods which just give you more exclusive control over your exact power input to the coil.

I started with an eGo-C and eventually decided to try new stuff. Clearomizers and different tanks. Kanger T3's to PT2. Cartos and all kinds of bs.

If I had to recommend you a set up via my personal tastes and through real testing. I would tell you to buy:

1. Sony VTC-4 18650 battery as many as you'd like.
   VTC-4 Purchase LINK
   
   
2. A mechanical mod like a Nemesis or Stingray.
   Nemesis Clone Purchase LINK
   
   
3. 28 Gauge Kanthal for learning and use.
   Kanthal Purchase Link
   
   
4. A charger.(You can use any kind you like but there are safety precautions to be had with batteries if you sub-ohm especially)
   Charger Purchase LINK
   
   
5. A 510 connection ohm meter.
   Ohm Meter
   
   
6. Organic Pure Cotton - Boiling them is your choice to do or not.
   Cotton LINK
   
   And your own e-liqid of course.
   
   None of these items are necessary to vape on and are not of a professionally organized list. But they'll definitely move you on up in the vaping world and your experience can be completely tailored however you like with these items.

Hey there! Sorry that this is happening to you. While I agree with others, it makes no sense that that using your fan wire as a common fixed your issue - But it did! So that's great news for now.

For the record, I have had clients before tell me your same exact story - Their Nest suddenly needed a common after years of it working perfectly. Whether it's due to a surprise update, power outage, or strange anomaly - don't worry, others have been in your shoes. Just another quirk that comes with having the Nest.

​

• Here is an adapter of sorts that you were looking for (Plug in outlet common maker): https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV/
  
  ​
  
  
• Here is another option (add -a-wire at the air handler): https://www.amazon.com/FAST-STAT-Common-Thermostat-Extender-Connection/dp/B01N6ERM04/
  
  ​
  
  The "plug in" common wire is by far the easiest method, however you'll have to be creative on how you'll hide the wiring. Hope this helps!

How I did the wiring on mine:

Install the angel eyes themselves per instructions. Run the wiring so everything leads to the relay being mounted in the bin at the right rear of the engine bay. Early models have the DSC/ABS module there, later models have just an empty bin.

Use the following image of the relay as a guide to where you lead the wires. The Pinout will be the most useful part.

http://i.imgur.com/Yrm9vxU.jpg

30 - Angel eye positive wire

87A - To footwell light

87 - To positive battery terminal

85 - Trigger wire

86 - Ground

Most instructions have you running the trigger wire to the DME and here's where I differ. In the bin where you mount the relay you'll see a grommet with a rubber plug on the firewall side. Carefully cut a little "+" into that and feed the trigger wire and the one that goes to the footwell light through there. (See link at the bottom for a picture showing it)

Inside the car you're now going to work in/under/behind the glove compartment. With a flashlight look for where those wires you poked through the grommet came in and pull them through. Tap the footwell wire into the positive lead to a footwell light. The other one will share a connection with a circuit in the fuse panel. You want to use a slot that is on only when the ignition is in the "on" position, and is off when it's in "accessory" or "off". You can use a multimeter or a test light to confirm this. There should be several options. Now you need an "add-a-circuit" adapter like the link below. Use that to connect to the trigger lead. Be sure to use the fuse with the same rating as the one the angel eye wiring harness came with.

http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427662052&sr=8-1&keywords=car+add+on+fuse

The link below is to a great step-by-step that I modified, so use it for the pictures and most individual steps, just on its Step 4, run the trigger to the fuse panel instead of the ECU accessory wire. These instructions also don't include step-by-step for running the other wire to the footwell light for the fade-on when you unlock and fade-off when you lock your car. It does show the grommet you'll be slicing to get the wires to the cabin though.

http://www.fastm.com/m3/angeleyes_orionv2.html

Disabled gamer here. I have my own cab which is designed for someone of my short stature to use. I'd offer blueprints but we made it over a decade ago and I don't think it'd work for wheelchairs, anyway.

I can add a suggestion for the PC inside it, though. If you get a PC that boots up on power events, you can have a wireless remote control power socket handle booting up the cab and getting it ready to go. No futzing around with switches behind the cabinet or anything like that. I've got one of these and it works great, I click a button on the small remote control and a minute later I'm in my front-end and gaming.

I'd also suggest checking out my spreadsheet of PC games with cabinet support and accompanying video as they may be relevant. Steam has a lot of games which can work well with limited and rebindable controls, for both cabinets and disabilities alike... but a few landmines where games that look like they should work are a complete pain to configure.

Lastly, consider checking out AbleGamers, a nonprofit dedicated to doing exactly what you're doing -- adapting controls and game systems for disabled access.

Happy gaming!

You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.

Klein Tools 92906 ProPack 6 Apprentice Tool Set for Trade Professionals (6-Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKONLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Qm5EAbQVA3JFH

That’s a good deal. It has lineman pliers, diagonal cutters, needle nose, wire strippers, and flat/ Phillips screwdrivers.

Screwdriver and Nut Driver 11-in-1 Multi Tool, Cushion Grip Handle, Industrial Strength Bits Klein Tools 32500 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yp5EAbSKE4D2A

This is a good all purpose screwdriver to carry around

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Non-Contact Voltage Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qq5EAbTTZ8GYW

This is a non contact voltage tester and it might just save you some pain/your life

Channellock 440 12-Inch Tongue and Groove Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xr5EAbWNKDP5C

You should probably get 2 pairs of these. It’ll help you twist on couplings and stuff

Stanley 33-725 25-Feet FatMax Tape Measure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002PV66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Xs5EAbGVWXZDV

A lot of people like these tape measures for their larger claws

Klein Tools 98002BT Bottle Opener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00093GENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4u5EAb52FZ742

This will help for when you go home

You’re talking about a jamb switch, but they don’t meet energy codes in my area. The issue that municipalities have with jamb switches is that if you don’t close the door then the light never goes off. If you put in a motion sensor with an automatic off then it will go off after a certain amount of time even if you don’t close the door. That’s really the best option. Technically motion sensors indoors don’t meet CA energy codes either because they don’t want lights automatically turning on anywhere in the house. They want you to physically hit the switch and then for it to time off. That is called an occupancy sensor. It’s actually required in closets and bathrooms.

But what you’d want is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=58685001040&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfvT7I7-5AIVoyCtBh20jwIxEAAYASAAEgJHu_D_BwE&hvadid=274898185342&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9032130&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11606527727516147700&hvtargid=kwd-296546370640&hydadcr=12164_10197800&keywords=switch+motion+sensor&qid=1570037880&sr=8-5

As far as the electrical goes, its easy to do but, for the love of God, turn the power off while working on it! Networking your house ain't worth your life!! Watch some YouTube videos on how to wire the the receptacle.

Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451424239&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=receptacle+checker&dpPl=1&dpID=51hlg2obNeL&ref=plSrch

After you wire the receptacle, turn the power on, and plug this in. It will show you if you made any mistakes. Just read the instructions.

The hardest part you're going to run into is getting from the crawl space to the attic. Try and find a plumbing drain. Plumbers generally cut the holes way bigger than needed and you can slide in beside them.

Another option is using a fireplace if you have one. The framing around it should be loose enough for you to fish wires down beside it.

The easiest thing you can do is run a PVC pipe on the exterior of the house in an inconspicuous spot and paint it to match your house.

Save yourself a million headaches by pulling a pull string along with your wires for subsequent runs. Twine is cheap.

Feel free to ask me anything else you might be curious about!

Source: am electrician.

As others have stated that's an equipment ground plug so it shouldn't be any problem but to be safe when removing any broken cord prongs from an outlet.

1. Turn off the power. Use a handy plugin or induction tester to ensure the power is off.plug in tester induction tester
   
   
2. keep both feet squarely on the ground and wear rubber soles. Do not take a knee or touch the ground with any other part of your body. Do not lean against the wall in any way. Do not touch any exposed metal surfaces, counter tops or sinks.
   
   
3. tuck one hand behind your back and use the other hand to pull out the object with a pair of pliers.
   
   When in doubt hire a professional. Safety first.

Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.

A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):

Hakko wire cutter

Helping hand

Hemostat / Forceps

Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester

Security: Look at it this way, How often are you opening windows, and forgetting to close and relock them? A contact sensor only works at the point of contact. IE, If the window is broken into (The glass is broken), the contact sensor will still show closed.

There goes the security argument out the window.

As far as automation, sure, sensors on windows would be a plus, but if you're doing something just checking if ANY window is open, You might try a hardwired solution and wire it to one sensor. You can get hardwired contacts for somewhere around 3 USD a pop. Combine that with one Ecolink door and window sensor (That has a hardwire port on it) and you'd be good to go.

Homeassistant supports Alarm Decoder and Envisalink (Two solutions I used just for this purpose) as well as a couple of others, but if youve already got a hardwired solution, That'd be your way to go.

To add to this:

Do *NOT* under any circumstances rely on a no-contact tester to tell you that a wire is safe to touch. They are good for helping you make a determination between two wires as described above, but they can and do give false readings in both directions.


The voltage reading off a good multimeter (with contact probes) should be used to be certain that a circuit is indeed turned off. Make sure you get one with a separate current lead socket (usually this means they have 3 holes at the bottom of the meter) this will save you from blowing up your meter if you accidentally switch to current sensing while connected to high voltage (been there, done that, its not pleasant avoid the headache)


There are a wide variety of multimeters available in all price ranges, but here's a very inexpensive one on Amazon that should work OK for this use case. It might not be 100% accurate, but I'm sure it'll be able to tell you if there's 120v or not :) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6

So it’s a double hit with keeping the wife happy.

First, she won’t want you to replace everything you have. That would just be wasteful spending.

To make things easier to start, I would suggest the connected bulb remote from Lutron. If set up correctly you would have on/off as well as dimming control of your hue lights, while they ecstatically keep things looking tidy. (They fit in standard decora wallplates which should do the trick.

Now my general rule of thumb is to prevent “dumb” accessories. Something that can easily lose its power and no longer respond. The only hue light in my house vulnerable to this is the 2 A19 bulbs above my stove. I just always leave the stove light on now as the connected bulb remote is nearby, plus it controls under cabinet hue light strips (thus double benefit).

For long term happy wife / happy life (following not just rule 2, but rule 1: don’t waste money) I would suggest the Lutron Caséta line. They can be configured in 2 pole, 3 pole, and 4 pole (takes creativity). They offer dimming & on/off switches. They also offer Serena shades which use the same hub, and have the same size of remote.

I have friends who say that decora sizing doesn’t matter, but it’s once you add on to your setup with outlet switches, blind control, lights, fans, spotify, etc… that having everything on a single wallplate is super nice.

On a final note. To change colours, I drive via Siri allot. Most of my scenes would have a colour, but if not then a simple “set the kitchen to red” will suffice.

Fin.
edit: link

Hi. There's a couple things you can do to reduce RFI. Like you said, you can use a shielded cable. It would help if you can connect both ends to ground -- but make sure your electrical mains entrance ground is correct and up to code. You should have a ground rod right below the entrance, and it should be connected to your panel. All lines should be grounded lines, and you should have 3-prong outlets for all circuits. Get an outlet tester to be sure all sockets are wired correctly.

Another thing you can do is add ferrites on all wires going into and out of the HVAC units (power, data, everything). These act as RF filters.

Now bluetooth and microwave ovens use the same frequency band (2.4 GHz). Its not unusual for some low level RF energy to leak out of microwave ovens, and overpower a low-power data connection like bluetooth. But if its more than a low-power leak it may indicate a faulty oven, or a bad ground.

Its possible you have a nearby intermittent transmitter that is affecting things. It could be an airport thing, or maybe a two-way radio like for police or fire, or maybe a neighbor with a CB radio or ham radio. If this is a licensed user and they have a correctly engineered installation, its up to your devices to accept interference. Proper grounding and filtering will help though.

I hope this gives you someplace to start. Good luck.

For what you are trying to achieve, z-wave and/or zigbee will do you best. The first thing you are going to need is a smart hub that has z-wave and/or zigbee radios. I use Samsung SmartThings, and it's decent and has both radios. There are other options on the market, but I think SmartThings is probably the most popular one on the market.

I can link you some products that I have in my house that work great with my SmartThings hub, and will work with various other hubs on the market.

Fan Control (speed only, not light)

Motion sensor (You can normally find these for $30 or less)

Door/window sensor

Dimmer switch

Garage door opener

Plug in outlet

It probably depends on the model of your gas fireplace but for mine it was fairly easy. I used a Remotec Z-Wave Dry Contact Fixture Module. It's showing unavailable on Amazon right now so not sure where else you could get it. You will also need a generic Lamp Cord to power the dry contact. I didn't do anything to the wall switch.

Basically, the wall switch has 2 low voltage wires coming from it and going under the fireplace. You cut these wires under the fireplace and you connect them to the dry contact. Essentially you now have 2 coming in from the switch and 2 going out to the fireplace. Then you connect the lamp cord to power portion of the dry contact and then plug it into the outlet under the fireplace (Not sure how you would do this without an outlet under there so I'd check for that first). That's it! The wall switch still works like normal and now you can control it like any other Z-Wave switch through an app or with voice. I'm not aware of anything similar that works over Wifi instead if you don't have a hub.

As for safety, it's probably safer now that I can track and disable it remotely. You can also set up automations to turn it off or notify you if left on for too long. You aren't touching any gas lines and the wires you are touching are all low voltage, I don't see why people consider this dangerous.

So the main level has every door pre-wired and all windows that open on the main level pre-wired as well. Pre-wired door photos.

I assume you were talking about these Ecolink sensors? Just curious why go for a z-wave sensor and also hardwire it? Is this for redundancy?

I came across these that mount flush inside the door and I think would be hardwired the same way as the Ecolink sensor (GPIOs on a rPi in my case)? That way they're completely invisible and a lot less expensive to outfit every door and window. I don't know if these would work well for the front door that has the pre-wire on the hinge side of the door (depending on how far apart they need to get), but they should work for the other door that has the wires on the deadbolt side?

Again, super new to this, so I may be missing something. I really appreciate the help!

No idea about the cost, but if you have a level of confidence and have some idea what you're doing, you could pop the cover off that electric panel and see what type of wires run into the circuit breakers and what they feed. If modern wires run into breaker #1, and you turn that off and the wall fixtures turn off.. well there you go.

K&T should be easier to spot inside the box, no ground, probably dusty, and wrapped in cloth. Mapping the breakers, figuring out what controls what room/wall/fixture is a good idea. Flip them off one at a time and have someone upstairs plugging something in an checking them..

Also, I highly recommend one of these guys to quikcly test and tell you if the wiring is correct:

http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

So I wanted to report back for people who come across this thread. Based on Manbient's recommendation, I am using Lutron Connected Remotes in conjunction with the Phillips Hue Bulbs and it works great. "Pairing" the Remote to the Hue hub first and then to each bulb you want it to control worked flawlessly. I tested a network outtage and the lutron remote still controls the lights just fine. The Hue remote DOES NOT, as it reports back to the hub to control the lights. While the hue remote has more options for colors, etc, the Lutron remotes seem to be a little more failproof, and can be mounted on the wall in standard faceplates. In fact, I think you can use the Pico wallplate bracket to give it the built-in look. Here is a link to that product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JZRAFEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This seems like the best solution for now, and it is still completely customizeable/reworkable, unlike wired switches or other combos.

The only thing that I don't like about the Lutron Connected remotes is that a single tap of the "on" button doesn't bring them back to their previously dimmed level, it turns them on full blast. Of course, you can just use the dim up and down buttons, but I got used to Lutron's Maestro switches where a single tap would bring the lights up to the previous level and a double tap would bring them on full. I did a little searching and couldn't find whether this was possible with the connected remote.
Anyone have a solution or workaround for that?
Thanks again everyone!

Edit: grammar

Most gas fireplaces today us a millivolt gas value. If your fireplace happens to have a fan switch or 120v available near the fireplace switch you maybe in luck. I used the 120v from the fan of my fireplace in parallel to power a relay and added a Lutron Caseta switch in series to turn the 120v on/off to the relay which in turn opens or closes the contacts for the low voltage solenoid. The added benefit of using a smart switch is being able to add it to my voice assistant Alexa or Home Assistant.

120v White wire -> relay <--> smart switch <- 120v Black wire

..................................coil.................................................................

......millivolt line<-> N.O. <-> millivolt line.......

Some more info on fireplace wiring.

There are fireplace remotes available depending on your fireplace's solenoid.

My house had similar wiring in several rooms, so I removed the wall switches and simply tied the wires together so the outlets would remain on. Then I bought some of these and mated them to a SmartThings hub to do something similar to what you describe:

• SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch
  
• GE ZigBee Smart Lighting Dimmer, Plug-In, 2-Outlet, Led & CFL Bulb compatible
  
  In the SmartThings App, you can set up Routines "[Room Name] Lights On" and "[Room Name] Lights Off", and you can set them to "Automatically perform '[Room Name] Lights On' when... Something turns on or off." Then you pick the switch you wanted to perform the routine.
  
  Beware, there's a caveat:
  
  Communication from the switch, through the Zigbee network, to the hub, to the Internet, to the SmartThings service, and all the way back to the outlets is slow -- like, it takes 5 whole seconds to turn the lights on -- which, even after a year, is still enough time to make me think, Oh, I probably didn't actually click the switch. It's not something I would recommend to the average person who just likes things to work, but, if you're looking for a very specific solution with the lights and wiring you have, it is actually faster than using voice control. Good luck.

>From what I am reading I can just buy a Z-Wave USB stick and use it on the PC that is hosting HASS?

Yup. I have one of these, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

>Are there zwave switches that arent a physical switch?

How about just getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/

>Are there any zwave relays?

There are, though I'm not aware of anything 12v.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/

https://smile.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU/

>Any ideas on how that can be accomplished?

No idea on this on. I'm sure it's possible with HASS. At the very least you can call and external script to make said announcement. You might ask out on the forums, they have a good community: https://community.home-assistant.io/

Cheers!

I have seen people setting up integration with RM-Bridge but that was too clunky for me. Im leveraging a custom Alexa skill and a local NodeJS server that utilizes python-broadlink and BlackBeanControl. I bought two Broadlink RM3 mini's for controlling a TV and Apple TV upstairs and a entertainment center downstairs.

It works pretty well and as soon as I clean up the code and write a how-to I plan to publish this to Github.

I don't know what the grommet looks like through the firewall, but if there's room, you may try using a piece of safety wire or similar and pushing it through next to the wire loom, then make a loop on the end and pull your wire back through. That's what I've done in the past for similar applications.

For the fuse and ground, I know that many people have used Add-A-Circuit kits for this sort of thing. They sell them on Amazon or at any auto parts store. That's probably your best bet. I much prefer not to have to cut and splice factory wiring whenever possible.

I couldn't answer all your questions, but I hope that's at least a start. You may want to head over to MSF and see what others have done. Here's a thread for a similar install that I found after a quick search. Looks like OP used the hole for the hood release cable through the firewall and tapped into the BPV line for the pressure reading.

I totally get it. Personally, as long as things don't get out of balance I try not to fret about screen time too much.

If you're really concerned I'd recommend getting a outlet timer. Say that the new rule is that the TV needs to go to sleep and can't wake up until noon or something. Say that we're making this decision together to make sure our minds and bodies grow and are healthy.

Then provide other things that he can use to entertain himself. Building sets, crafts, books, etc. He'll definitely find something when left to it. Remember how entertaining sticks were when left with nothing else? He'll adapt.

I have a similar situation. I'm in a house built in 1955 and in the process of replacing switches with a Lutron setup.

One thing I wanted to be clear on is what you mention about a lack of neutral wires. From my understanding (and granted, I'm not an electrician, but have done my fair share of wiring jobs around the house), even houses from the 50s would have neutral wires. I'm wondering if you've confused ground wires with neutral wires. Neutrals are usually white wires while grounds are usually green or bare copper. Again, I know this as I'm in the exact situation. My house has no ground wires in most locations, but neutrals are everywhere as expected.

I only have one switch in the house the controls an outlet, but here's now I tackled it.

• First, I removed the switch and coupled the wires together to make the outlet constantly powered.
  
• Next, I got a Lutron lamp controller (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484801392&sr=8-1&keywords=lutron+caseta+lamp) and used this for the lamps in the outlet.
  
• Finally, I got this (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484801427&sr=8-1&keywords=caseta+pico+wall+mounting) to mount the Pico remote for the lamp controller in the same box the original switch used to be in.
  
  This has actually worked out great, as it means we have an extra outlet in the living room for plugging in things like our laptops, but we still have a switch in the wall for the lamps.

Couple thoughts. Is there maybe a problem with wiring? I would get one of these and try all the plugs to see if you have an issue like a bad ground. There are others that look like this one, but most will not give you as good of a test. Sperry Receptacle Tester ($8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hg-rDb7HMV8WX

For a good whole house protection from a unit like the Square D HEPD80, its common to run into issues with placement. I like using the EATON CHSPT2ULTRA, but similar specs. Its a little more difficult, but I have run them outside directly through the back of the breaker panel to a small metal wall box on the outside. Little more work, but this keeps the leads short (important) and even lets me check on the surge protector LEDs very easily). They normally have something like this at HD/Lowes - here is something similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T5BRO4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_tr-rDbAYB73ZJ

You will need two things primarily.

One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.

Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.

edit: words and stuff

some electrical stuff is really complicated, but as long as a homeowner's first steps are

1. turn off the circuit breaker
   
   
2. use a voltage tester to be 100% sure the electricity is off
   
   then it's perfectly safe after that

Thanks -- that's helpful. Do you have any z-wave relays that you've used in the past? I've used the Remotec switch before, but if there's something else out there that's better, would love to know.

Oh yeah, something like that would be cool after I decide on the hub (I'm like 90% sure I'll want some zwave compatibility). Kind of wish it ALSO had dumb timer options for my hub-less self now, but that is one to definitely bookmark for me, thanks!

This isn't time sensitive, I was just looking in my backyard and thought I'd post to see what was out there. I wonder if I can actually just install one of these (or similiar) in the GFCI outlet (that is encased) actually...

Go control didn't go out of business, it's just that the combo packs are a great deal for the consumer, so they aren't really available anymore. You have to buy the pieces separately.

I use the go control siren and it's great.

I also use these door and window sensors which work great and are cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HPIYJWU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

doorbells are easy enough to handle, as long as the transformer is still good. the transformer converts your home's 120volt electricity to 12 volts (usually) via this large, fist sized looking block, usually located nearish to the breaker box.

doorbells are run in a low voltage loop. the power is supplied from the breaker box or a nearby junction box to the transformer. then it runs from the transformer in a big circle to the chime and the buzzer. when you press the doorbell buzzer, you're completing the circuit and it causes the chime to sound.

1. turn off the power to the transformer, check with a voltage tester.
   
   
2. unscrew buzzer or chime. you can do either one first. it doesn't really matter. just make sure you have a clamp or something like that hand. sometimes those little wires like to fall back into the wall. clamp the wires so that they don't.
   
   
3. once either part is unscrewed from the wall, you'll see two contacts. usually it doesn't matter which wire connects to which contact, provided you get a standard two wire doorbell system. disconnect the two wires from the existing contacts.
   
   
4. clean off the wires a little bit. they're probably dirty and oxidized. if they're really nasty looking, you can cut them back a little and strip the coating off the wire for some fresh copper.
   
   
5. reattach the wires. you'll probably need a little screwdriver for this.
   
   
6. i like to seal around the doorbell buzzer with some caulk. helps protect it from the elements a bit.
   
   
7. attach the chime/buzzer back to the wall. some just fasten with screws. others have mounting brackets that fastened to the wall with anchors or something. then the actual faceplate of the chime/buzzer snaps on to that.
   
   
8. turn your power back on at the breaker.
   
   
9. test it out.
   
   
10. act smug and cocky with your SO about how easily you completed this and never let him/her forget it by always saying "remember that time..."

Here’s a set of two dimmer switches, hub and remotes. No neutral wire required for these so couldn’t be easier to fit

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1535840828&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

And here’s just the hub and a basic switch. You do need a neutral for the switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LRCG38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s not cheap to get started for sure (mainly due to that bridge) but Caseta, apart from HomeBridge, has been my most solid HomeKit device. The bridge never requires a restart in my experience. I honestly wish I hadn’t invested so much in Hue before I used this.

Yes. Make sure you turn off the breaker. If you want to feel extra comfortable turn off all the circuits haha. Or get a circuit tester like this: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-NCVT-2-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1426008999&sr=8-3&keywords=circuit+tester

Hey, I was wondering if it would be possible to use an adapter that turns one fuse into two rather than splicing the cable?

If not, do you think something like this would work?

Also, is this what you mean by testing light?

If any of these parts aren't correct, could you send me amazon links for the correct parts because I'm trying to use up my gift cards.

I really appreciate your help and I'll try to order the right parts as soon as I get the O.K. from you.

I know that you said you're using WiFi bulbs, but I was in the same situation using zwave bulbs. If you have a hub, replace the bulbs with zwave bulbs and you can use this switch. It goes over top of your switch and is permanently screwed into the plate. You just leave your switch in the on position before you put the new switch over top of it. It has dimming controls also. Works pretty well for me.


Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/

KISS Keep It Simple, Stupid. :-)

An automated closet/pantry light, typically, doesn't need to be smart. You don't need to turn it on or off at certain times. You don't need notification it was turned on, off, or left on. You simply need it to be motion or switch/timer activated/deactivated.

I understand you had the additional task of wiring electrical for this, but anyone with an existing lighted pantry or closet, think why it would need to be smart before you spend money on fixtures for it. Most of the time, you merely want it to turn off because people forget to do that.

Door-jamb closure switches are an option, unless you're dealing with people who not only leave on lights but also don't close doors. However, there is some drilling and electrical work required to install those. In my experience, they're often installed on the hinge side of the door, which is opposite where the light switch is located.

Lutron's Maestro Occupancy/Vacancy Sensors are, IMO, a perfect solution for this if your closet is already lighted. They can be configured to turn on with motion (occupancy mode), or switch press (vacancy mode); configured to stay off if there is already enough light; and configured how long to stay on after motion has stopped. I've placed these in ALL closets.

In bathrooms, however, I did opt for smart switches and motion sensors, for both fans and lights. The fans are programmed to come on with a switch-press, and turn off after 60 minutes of no motion. The lights are programmed to turn on with motion, but at different light levels depending on time ... and off again after 10 minutes of no motion. I could have opted for in-wall timers for the fans, but decided to go with smart switches instead.

Under cabinets look great (as you noted), and work great when they are on.

​

I think the reason people don't use them is because they are not typically wired to a switch on old houses; and/or hot bulbs overheat and damage themselves.

​

The solution is LED lights, triggered by a sensor like this or this that turn them on and off for you. LED don't overheat much, and the sensor turns them off, and on, for your convenience and safety.

I too would recommend nest, very easy to set up and monitor.

Additionally, I would recommend one of the following: a smart outlet, a smart light switch, or a few manual timers ([similar to this] (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1537666467&sr=8-16&keywords=circuit+timer)). Then plug in a desk lamp or floor lamp in various rooms and set them to turn on/off at various times. Will simulate someone being at home.

No idea about the helmet. As far as tools go

non contact voltage tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FXJOQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_XxzgAb8RCT4Y9

Works great for double checking the utilities are off or isolating a particular circuit if you don't want to leave someone's house entirely without power

4 in 1 screwdriver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009V431/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_vzzgAbASETAEA

For screwing and unscrewing things

Reasonable sized channel locks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SBCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZAzgAbD9C5JND

For a while I had vice grips instead of these but found with gloves on they were a little too clunky to manipulate. Works great for grabbing and loosening like gas connections to dryers

And this rescue tool dealio
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057UMN3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_ZCzgAbQY3EK8Z

Works as your battery cutter, prying tool, gas shutoff and a spanner. I cut one of those little locks that secures piv valves and commercial sprinkler systems with this thing before my partner could make it back with bolt cutters so that alone was worth half the price

Century Indoor 24-Hour Mechanical Outlet Timer, 3 Prong, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LPSGBZS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

(Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 4FT, 2200lm, 6500K (Super Bright White), 20W, Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, Corded electric with built-in ON/OFF switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Hgrope 5W LED Grow Light Desk Lamp Clamp Flexible Neck for Hydroponic and Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVKWZH3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7ZEaBbZSW8ASJ


this last one isn't the exact red/blue lights i have but it looks better than mine hahaha

Is there a reason why you're going the bulb route instead of the smart switches? Depending on how many bulbs you get, the cost can get up there pretty quickly. I use Lutron Caseta switches and they integrate well to smartthings and then into google home. I also have 4 downlights with hue bulbs in them for one room. What I did was just wired the power wires behind the switch to always have power to the fixture. At the time, Lutron sold a remote that looked the the other smart switches I installed that could control hue light bulbs. I just put it over the wires with a bracket that Lutron made as well.

They do. There are two versions, a ZigBee and Clear Connect. The ZigBee one works with Hue. I would love it if the ZigBee version would show up in the Hue app or HomeKit.

> I want Hue to support an affordable small remote like the Lutron pico.

Assuming you would like to have a nice, neutral and clean spirit to build into whatever you like (ie, everclear style); here’s my advice.

1. Make a large wash with basic sugar. 30kgs in 80 liters with one bag of turbo yeast will give you a 17-20% abv wash. (The turboyeast will multiply and do the work, no need to pitch in a lot of yeast)
   
   
2. Get ready to build up to your final product in stages — get at least three large 17.5 liter water bottles with airlocks or lids.
   
   
3. Buy a timer for the still like the ones used to turn lights on and off when you are away. Set it to run airstill for about 3 hours each time. This way you can run in the morning before leaving, once you are home, and again at night. About 9 liters of wash processed daily.
   
   
4. First run output goes into bottle #1, you will likely fill it before you get through the 80 liters, so maybe do 2 of these initial bottles. Dump the dregs, of course.
   
   
5. Throw some activated carbon pellets in #1 jugs before you start. Buy these from fish / aquarium shop. (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=activated+carbon+for+fish+tanks&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzIux7-mR5AIVFarsCh00oAPFEAAYASAAEgLpAvD_BwE&hvadid=214400406882&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9061122&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9515818740707918485&hvtargid=kwd-314829173026&hydadcr=16139_9891889&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_2m9jzfil1k_e)
   
   
   
6. Rerun all in jug #1 again through the air still. This will take it from 50-60% up to 80% or so. Put this output into jug#2, also with a few cups of activated charcoal. The dregs left in the still are about 20%, so dump them back into your original wash, if they are cooled down enough.
   
   
7. Once you’re ready with enough volume in jug #2, run it again but ensure you catch the first 100mls at least. This is the run you cut out the methanol, acetone and other light end nasties. You can use this stuff for washing up fluid, but not drinking. You can place a cup inside your gathering bucket under the spout.
   
   
8. Now you should have some really clean 180 proof base fluid. Max output form 32kgs sugar into 80 liters = +/- 20 liters of 180proof.
   
   
9. Add fresh spring water to get it back to 35%-40% and make your booze of choice. Everclear website has a lot of good ideas.
   
   If you try all this, pm me back and let me know how it went or if you had any problems.
   
   Timer — https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1CF5S5I0380KI&keywords=timer+switch&qid=1566317740&s=gateway&sprefix=timer+electric%2Caps%2C-1&sr=8-16

I was waiting for the same thing, but I finally bit the bullet and got a dual relay. It's a tight fit (you'll need to stuff it all the way to the back), but I got it to work in a standard single-gang box. Your existing switches will work and will toggle on/off regardless of the position of the switch. The switch also reports instant status to your z-wave controller.

The model I listed is good because the built in wires minimize the number of wire nuts you'll need (only 2 to connect the red and yellow wires to the 2 loads), which conserves space. You can follow along with the wiring guide in the comments. It's cheap and works great for on/off control.

I know this isn't exactly the response you were looking for but there are decora style hue switches. Technically they are remotes but you can hardwire your lights to always be on and install the remotes as decora switches. My current system consists of 27 hue bulbs controlled by 12 of these remotes/switches and it works great. Links and documentation below.

Remotes

Wallplate Brackets



Documentation:

1. Unpackaged the Lutron remote
   
   
2. Put the remote within 4 inches of your Hue Hub
   
   
3. Open the Hue app and go to Settings -> Accessory Setup -> Click the + Button in the bottom right corner -> Hue dimmer Switch -> Option 1 -> LED blinking
   
   
4. Next, while the app shows as searching, press and hold the top "On" button on the Lutron remote
   
   
5. After about 10 seconds or so, you'll see the green LED on the remote start flashing rapidly. Keep holding until the light turns off
   
   
6. The remote is now paired with the bridge and you can exit out of the Hue app (It'll still be saying searching…)
   
   
7. Now you can proceed with pairing the remote as the instructions say
   
   
8. Simply go next to the Hue bulb that you want to control with the remote and hold down that top "On" button on the remote
   
   
9. The Hue bulb will flash three times and then grow dim or turn off
   
   
10. You should now be able to control the bulb with both the remote and the Hue app!
    
    
11. If you want to pair any other bulbs, perform the same steps with the next bulb

Not trying to persuade you one way or the other, but you might just want to take a look at what is involved using the adapter. It's very simple if you go that route. Here's a link to one on amazon. This is the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV?ref_=nav_ya_signin&

To be honest though, I'd probably go with the programmable thermostat except I like the remote sensors with the ecobee and also being able to monitor the temperature when I'm not at home because I'm paranoid like that!

I've got the old version of that camera and it's very good. Importantly for me, it's small enough to fit behind my rear view mirror and has a really nice small mounting bracket with tape rather than a huge suction cup that will fall off every other week.

My power outlet is inconveniently placed, so I used add a circuit to hard wire it into my fuse box.

What you need is a Luton smart bulb remote, they have some making them but you might get lucky and find them. These pair with the Philips Hue bulbs and work great

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LZL-4B-WH-L01-Connected-Bulb-Remote/dp/B014STZASK

Yep, the Remotec Dry Contact module is absolutely perfect for that.

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

You could use any z-wave dry contact module really, just don't try to use a standard z-wave wall switch designed to switch line voltage. If you somehow manage to get line voltage to the millivolt contacts for the gas valve, then you will fry it. But the Remotec one is especially good for this use case because it has extra terminals for the existing physical switch. So you can still use the physical switch to turn the fireplace on and off without it getting out of sync with the z-wave relay. Could probably do the same with a MIMOLite Dry Contact Bridge, but it's also almost $20 more than the Remotec with no other benefit in this case.

Here's a great write-up I found when I did my fireplace:

http://thedataist.com/off-topic-how-to-automate-your-gas-fireplace/

Be aware that you will still need line voltage to the module to power the z-wave radio, and that line voltage and millivolt shouldn't be wired in the same electrical box unless you have one specifically for this purpose that has a divider. I was lucky because my fireplace already had a 120V outlet underneath it for the blower, so the setup was a simple as the instructions I linked to.

I actually took it a step further since that outlet also had a separate wall switch for turning the blower on and off, and I wanted to be able to control the blower by z-wave but didn't care about controlling it with the physical switch. So I also replaced the outlet underneath with an in-wall z-wave outlet, then plugged the power cord for the Remotec into the socket of the z-wave outlet that was not controlled by z-wave to prevent a sort of z-wave redundancy, and the blower into the socket of the outlet that is controlled by z-wave. By doing this I can control the blower with z-wave and no longer with the original switch on the wall, but instead use the switch on the wall as sort of a safety cutoff to completely kill power to the outlet below which of course then kills power to the Remotec and the blower. I just flip that switch off if I'm on vacation or in a time of the year when I don't use the fireplace. Did my best with the wording, but admittedly it's probably still REALLY hard to follow. I can make a diagram if needed.

Then I picked up a z-wave Aeon minimote for 20 bucks and set the buttons to control the fireplace and blower so that guests could control everything without using Google Home or having access to my hub. My fireplace didn't have a remote originally, and the price for all three parts was still less than adding one with the added benefit of being able to tie everything into automatons through my hub(s).

EDIT: Eventually I also want to add a z-wave gas shutoff valve either under the fireplace or for the main gas line coming into the house or maybe both just as an added precaution. Then write an automation that would shut it off if a smoke detector is tripped in that room or anywhere in the house depending on where I put the gas valve(s).

I don't have any automation yet, still reading up. As well as a tilt sensor, you could probably also use a window/door sensor but it definitely looks like the tilt/sensor is easier to install as it is one piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Z-Wave-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/

For my (future) sub ohm mech modders out there. Here is a quality setup that will allow you to rebuild to your heart's delight. I recommend a minimum of 4 batteries.

• 1x Emit Vapor Shotgun - http://www.vapercompany.com/Emit-Vapor-Shotgun-p/b10evs.htm
  
  
• 1x Trident V2 Atomizer (adjustible air flow and slotted posts are great.) - http://www.shopmvg.com/products/trident-v2
  
  
• 1x 100ft roll of 28awg Kanthal A1 wire - http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Wire-28-Gauge-Resistance/dp/B00FBSVQX6/
  
  
• 1x Wire Cutting tool - http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Maximum-Cutting-Capacity/dp/B00FZPDG1K/
  
  
• 1x Ohm Meter - http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html
  
  
• 1x Cotton Roll (to use as wicks) - http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Roll-Sterile-12-1-56/dp/B0008F6HOU/
  
  
• ?x Vape Juice (pick as many as you like) - http://www.vaportrailsnw.com/
  
  
• 4x 18650 batteries. Currently Sony VTC4 batteries are the best on the market. - http://www.amazon.com/Sony-US18650VTC4-2100mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00J470LTA/
  
  
• 1x Efest LUC Charger (easy to use and LCD display helps) - http://www.amazon.com/Efest-Charger-Digital-Battery-Readout/dp/B00GK7JMJ2/
  
  optional
  
  
• Small Carrying Case - http://illuminationsupply.com/battery-carriers-c-48_49/ecig-mod-zippered-carry-case-p-963.html#.U06cnPldX8A
  
  
• Large Carrying Case - http://www.amazon.com/16-Bottle-Essential-Presentation-Portfolio-5-15ml/dp/B0007SMXRI/

As others said, most likely you'd add a z-wave dry contact switch like this one if you have a z-wave hub. That's the best solution I know of and you'd be just side-stepping the current RF function. There's good info in the reviews there about how to actually do this as well.

Remember you get what you pay for, but since you're just trying this out I found some cheap options on amazon:
Volt meter
3 position switch Keep in mind you need to make sure you match your inputs and outputs to the voltage the PLC I/O wants (120v AV or 24v DC)
Indicator light you can use as an output to turn on/off
Looks like the PLC wants 24vDC power so you'll need something like this to switch your 120 power from the wall.

Honestly if all you are wanting is the lights to turn on when someone walks in the room you may be better off not going with a smart solution. You can do what you want with Hue bulbs.

There are also a number of bulbs with motion sensors built in. I've never used one personally, so I'd do more research to see how it knows when to turn off.

https://top10perfect.com/top-best-motion-sensor-light-bulbs-reviews/

But your best and cheapest solution might be this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486211121&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=vacancy+sensor+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=31E-2BSEFmL&ref=plSrch

I know you said you were worried about messing with wiring, but honestly in most homes (I'm assuming you are in America, excuse my assumption if you are not) to change out a switch you literally turn off the breaker that switch is on, unscrew the cover, take out two more screws that hold the switch against the wall and then there are two wires going to the switch. Take those out and put them in the new switch and reverse the process. It is insanity simple in most cases.

Anyways, hope that's helpful. Let me know if you have any more questions.

How much per kWh does your electricity cost? 19 Cents per Kilowatthour?

https://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.php?t=epmt_5_6_a



It really does not sound like the PC is causing this..

You said you purchased an electricity usage monitor?

What did it read? what is it currently reading? You should keep it hooked up so you can get an over time look at your power usage..

Your PC should not cost more than about $15 -$20 a month to run MAX..

It can not even imagine a faulty PSU causing this.. and if it was a power strip it should have blown up by now and burned your house down..

You could get a outlet tester: like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511526107&sr=8-3&keywords=outlet+tester&tag=gamersnexus01-20

To make sure you do not have a faulty outlet..

What you can do is hook up the Kill-A-Watt meter and put your PC to sleep see if the Power Supply is still drawing that god awful amount of power.. and Check your monitor make sure the power brick is not faulty..

That kind of power would generate a LOT of heat your room should be a sauna if it is the PC

If you check your PC parts Picker it is showing your Power draw at
36W to 146W max..

https://www.pcmag.com/article/343177/how-to-measure-home-power-usage

Watts / 1000 * Hours used x (Cost per Kilowatt-hour)= Total Cost..

Your PC Max should be about 146W + 30W for the monitor MAX

Intel - Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor 8W - 65W

MSI - H110M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard 15W - 60W

Avexir - Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory 11W - 11W

Crucial - MX300 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive 2W - 10W

Monitor is 30W

So do the math 176W

176/1000 = .176 of a Kilowatt

• say $.19 (cost per kWh) so $.033 per hour
  
• say 16 hours a day thats about 54 cents a day..
  
• 30 days is about $16
  
  Say your PC uses 350 watts, including monitor, while playing a graphically-intensive game, and your kWh cost is $0.19. If you were to play for one hour straight, it would cost you:
  
  350 / 1000 * 0.19 = $0.07 per hour
  
  Lets say for arguments sake you used all 550W of your Power supply + Monitor 30W that would be 580W 10 cents per hour or $1.76 per day or about $53 a month.. MAX and your PC should be pumping out enough heat to make you sweat. ( Not to mention your Power Supply would not last very long )
  
  This still does NOT account for the increase in your bill... It is NOT the PC it can NOT be the PC
  
  Hook a Kill-A-Watt meter to the PC and give us the numbers..
  
  If it is over 100 Watts while your doing nothing there is a problem..
  
  If it is over 350 Watts while your working there is a problem..
  
  
  

The module plugs into the antenna jack on the PCM. The plug types are different so that's where the adapters come in. There is a stick on button to turn it on and off and control calls and audio track. You tune the radio to a specific station and hold the button to turn on the module and go into BT mode. Hold the button to turn it off if you want to listen to the radio.

Here is a good DIY guide. Pretty easy, even for a dunce like me. If you don't want to splice the power to your PCM harness, you can get a fuse doubler to plug into the fuse box in the driver's side footwell. For the mic, I just wedged it in the corner of the dome light frame piece and ran the cable along the headliner and around the passenger side, behind the glove box, and into the rear of the center console. You can tuck the wire into the passenger door rubber molding with a plastic card so it's hidden and tight.

/r/porsche thread

Lots of good info about things to research as a beginner already posted.

As for gear, I would suggest something like a stingray x. It is a very snazzy mech mod, and you can get them relatively cheap. SXK made a solid clone, and they are sold as SXK and also as Infinite.

I would suggest an Infinite CLT for an atomizer. Extremely solid RDA, its cheap, has adjustable air flow, and decent size post holes, which will allow you to experiment with different types of builds as you get more comforatble. If you don't mind a tighter air flow, the tugboat v1 has really good flavor, and you can get one for like 9 bucks on 101vape.com, so that is another option.

I would start out with 28 gauge kanthal, you can find it here for under $8 for 100 ft.

Battery charges, I would suggest either an efest luc v4 (a bit more expensive) or an nitecore intellicharger. I think they both come in 2 or 4 bay. For batteries, Sony VTC4 will handle most builds that you would run, but be sure to find an ohm reader so you can test what you build, very important when you are starting out.

Sure, and they are an excellent troubleshooting tool to have around. One example, on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=multimeter&qid=1559002606&s=gateway&sr=8-3

If there's a Harbor Freight near you, they frequently have coupons for their cheap multimeter for free, or close to it, if you buy something else.

So it sounds like the outlets weren't grounded as someone already stated. The surge protector had nowhere to shunt any excess current to so it just went to your equipment. It's strange that your mother board was blown and not your power supply.

Nevertheless, I wouldn't plug a computer into any outlet unless I new it was grounded. If you do run an extension cord, there's three things to remember. Firstly, make sure the extension cord is a grounded one. Secondly, make sure the outlet is properly wired. Thirdly, make sure to make the cord as short as possible and don't cover it up with anything (rugs, carpet, etc.)

How do you check an outlet? The simplest method is to use a circuit tester. It's pretty cut and dry and it's a non-invasive way to make sure every wire is in the right place.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451367300&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_FMwebp_QL65

You don't need a super expensive multimeter to work on bikes. The $6 one from Harbor freight will work fine, but the lead are short and the wire inside is thin.

I often use the AstoAI one from Amazon that runs about $11. I picked this one because I didn't need a crazy meter and It had a decent clamshell case for it.

I combine the meter with this kit . . . super sharp / low profile meter leads are a GOD send.

As for your connectors. I've never used those personally, but the waterproof bullet insert type that have a male/female end are often found on bikes from the factory.

Get a outlet remote to make things easy. I have my lighthouses and headset hooked to these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK?th=1

I realized mine was staying warm when I first got it, also the bluetooth didn't turn off my lighthouses sometimes in one of the early software versions. So I got a remote hooked to all three and can turn them off and on super easy now.

So to add to my previous comment, im not sure about commercially, but if you latch this onto the gate where it swings out it will keep it in place with a little handy work and depending on the gate style.

https://www.amazon.com/27-5A-Spring-Plunger-Solenoid-Electromagnet/dp/B00S4U3WWQ

Combine this with a Zwave plug or a timer to power it on when you want the gate to become free. You could angle the gate or spring load it from the opposite side to free open.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Mechanical-Multiple-Lighting-Polarized/dp/B00435FRXS/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876032&sr=1-4&keywords=timer+plug

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Receptacle-Wireless/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1479876060&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=GE+zwave+outlet

I'd recommend getting an inexpensive outlet/receptacle tester and testing any outlet that you will be plugging equipment into. If it doesn't test correctly, notify the staff at the building and don't use it. It's not the complete solution, but it is a great start.....

Something like this...... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RUL2UU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bxldN_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=HWWEYSS763CCFCJ6GS1R&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e32b96c7-50a4-5f19-ae33-9408ab96b97e&pf_rd_i=14244461

Note to self: look into a multimeter.

Edit: Would this be sufficient for around-the-house use?

So here's a question... in the future, with a wiring setup like this, would it have accomplished the same thing (if I only had one switch controlling both the light and fan to nut the fan's black and blue to the ceilings black and then nut off the extra blue from the ceiling? Would that accomplish the same thing?

Ya, it's fairly easy. Use a company like Sonicelectronix.com, who have the best prices and often include free accessories for the install like wiring harnesses dash kits and antenna adapters.

The two things you will need to be aware of is that you will need the "keys" to get the radio out. They don't tend to come with the gear but you can usually take your car to your local shop and they will have keys and remove it for a few bucks. The next thing, to get an accessory wire, you must run a fusetap over to the fuse box on the driver side and tap into something that turns on and off with the car, like wipers.

1. I custom ordered blinds from Home Depot because I have floor to ceiling windows. I ended up not being happy with them. I ordered from a local window place and they made me custom ones that were a lot nicer, cheaper, and included installation. The cheaper sounding option isn't always.
   
   
2. I made the following electronic wiring upgrades myself (really easy to do):
   
   USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
   Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BJULYS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
   
   Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
   
   Edit: formatting

Electrical outlet tester - Use on each outlet in the home to make sure all is working properly and not needing work done. I used Sperry Tester
Test the sinks, toilets and showers. Run both cold water and hot water through each sink/shower and flush the toilets a couple of times.
Ask about pest control, how often, who does it.
How do you contact maintenance for any requests? How quickly can they come out to assist?
Check the windows and make sure they can open, or are securely locked.
Who has keys to your location? Did the last tenant turn in all keys? Can you get the location re-keyed for a small fee?
Hope this helps!

It's hard to say but I'd suggest at least 3x a week if not daily, anywhere from 25-50%...it's more to make sure the water stays clean for the one with fin rot than anything. I wouldn't expect the bloom to last more than a few days. You can also turn the lights off for a day or two and see if it helps.

A plug-in timer would be something similar to this (I just randomly pulled this off Amazon so am not endorsing this product, just using as an example). I get them from Walmart/Target, usually found where the extension cords and power strips are kept.

I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the other day I asked a similar question.

I wanted my Hues to be powered all the time so I could always use the Hue app alone to turn them on, or have them return to the previous scene, or all the other benefits that come with leaving the Hues powered.

However, I wanted to replace the Decora switches/dimmers with something that could be used to control the Hues but without cutting power. So my solution is what /u/rittyroo suggested, I purchased a Lutron Connected Bulb Remote with the wallplate bracket and hooked it up to the Hues. It's not designed for them, but there is a Youtube video showing how to set it up and it worked for me no problem.

I still have to actually hardwire the lights to always-on, though I haven't yet because they're three-way switches which are outside of my expertise - I'll be getting an electrician or someone smarter than me to do it. But the system works exactly like I had hoped.

Well the best I could find was this: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1542927191&sr=8-37&keywords=smart+outdoor+outlet

Which is not specifically for outdoors. I think probably the reason that there are not outdoor rated in gang box receptacles is that the electrical code for different areas could really make it hard to make a device that will fit them all.

Part of the problem is that a smart socket has to have power all the time (be it from a battery or from the AC) so there could be real issues with installing it properly.

If you decide to go ahead and do it this way, please consult with an electrician or your local governing authority to make sure you are following code. If you are not and there's a fire, it could go poorly for you.

You would need to use an IR blaster to send the TV the commands to power on/off and change source.

You could use this with Home Assistant:
BroadLink IR Control Hub Works with Amazon Alexa, RM Mini3 Smart Home Wi-Fi Enabled Infrared Universal Remote Control, One for All Control ( Black Bean RMMINI3-EN ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ODSSBbPKCNVDV

It will work best if your tv supports distinct source commands (aka if the remote for your tv has a button for HDMI 1, Hdmi 2 ,etc...)

I did this a while back with Z-wave dry contact switch and Amazon Echo integration. Paired it with Wink and integrated into Home Assistant. Super easy if your fireplace supports remote switches (aka wall switch).

z-wave.

You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like

http://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Switch/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373746&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+light+switch
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q

but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373786&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+outlet

So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well

The sub panel being hooked to a 50A breaker on the main panel is normal. Someone installed a 50A sub panel. This is great for you as you can shut off the entire sub panel by fliping the 50A breaker in the main panel. That way you do not have to worry about anything being live when you install a new circuit. Buy an electrical tester pen first just to make sure the sub panel is off.

You are correct about how to install the new 15A breaker, and it will need 14 gauge wire. You need to make sure its the same type of breaker that is currently in your sub panel as there is more then one kind.

As to the white wire to the copper bus unless someone else posts a good reason for that its wrong. I would pay someone to inspect your sub panel just to be sure there are not other wiring issues.

Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958038&sr=1-3&keywords=lutron+caseta

This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-2&keywords=lutron+caseta

You can also purchase them with remotes for $60

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-1&keywords=lutron+caseta

and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.

Lutron caseta work great. worth the money

Yes, thats possible.

Basically, you're setting up a rule in Smartthings under the "Smart Lights" smartapp that says, turn on <GE switch> when motion is detected with <motion sensor>.

Alternatively, I would recommend using Lutron motion sensor (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC). It's just cheaper and does the same thing.

While I do have plenty of GE zwave switches and Hue bulbs throughout my house, I have those Lutron motion switch in my garage, pantry, laundry room, bathrooms, etc.. I dont need those rooms to be smart--just need to turn on when motion is detected.

edit: missed the part that said the switch is inside the house. The first option is best for your use case.

Make sure you use the Enerwave dual z-wave relays, and not the Monoprice ones. The Enerwave relays work great with Wink. Lots of reports of issues with the Monoprice ones. I had one explode inside the gang box

Also, if all you want is for the controlled outlet to be the bottom one, then there are a few choices that work with Wink:

• GE z-wave outlet
  
• Enerwave z-wave outlet
  
• Linear/GoControl z-wave outlet
  
  These are cheaper than using the Enerwave z-wave dual relay to make two controlled outlets, although the latter is more useful in many situations.

Lutron also sells a plug-in lamp dimmer. I have one and it's great (and yes, it has a Pico):
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Dimmer-P-PKG1P-WH/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519663870&sr=8-3&keywords=lutron+caseta+plug-in

(If you want HomeKit control, you would also need to buy a Lutron Caseta smart bridge if you do not already have one.)

I had the same worry, so I got these which are pretty idiot-proof. You just

spin the center wheel to the current time,

push in the little black tabs around the wheel for the spaces of time you want the light to be on (in 30 min increments),

plug in your lamp and make sure the lamp is turned to the "on" setting and

make sure the switch on the side of the timer is clicked down to the little clock symbol.

It's been pretty reliable, though is always a few minutes off (about 3 for me) which I don't mind. I may get a fancier one later, but this one has done exactly what I need it too, plus I have a backup in case I decide to get crazy with any other lights in the house. Good luck!

Sure! Here is a dual bar light type and a circle type. Here's also a more low profile type you can clamp to the shelf above: top down light.. With any of these, for ease of use I recommend getting an outlet timer, takes a lot of the hassle/worry out of making sure your babies get enough sun: outlet timer. Hope this helps!

I used this https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_7 because I had it laying around, and it fit nicely (since I was replacing a simple one gang wall switch).

If I was doing it again today from scratch? Well, I went poking around Amazon, and was depressed that I didn't see anything cheaper or demonstrably better. One useful feature of the module I used is that there's a button on the front that will activate the relay if you don't/can't activate it through home automation

Buy these three things below to get you through the winter (or all year)! I've used these for a few months now on a 16-hour timer and all my cacti and succulents have thrived.

• Lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079BD5CG7/
  
• Timer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LPSGBZS/
  
• Mounting Tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NP1OBC/
  
  You could quickly and easily install these on your shelves. The only concern I would have is the angle of the shelves. The sides of the plants on the back of the shelves would get more direct light, so just be sure to rotate your plants every week.
  
  p..s that is a great looking setup!

Sure. Just plug some floor lamps into remote control outlets. You can sticky the remotes by the door. Not the most elegant solution in the world but they work fine. Pretty cheap on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.Lj3DbR46CBYM

Generally speaking, it's not recommended to put a dimmer on an outlet. Lutron has on/off switches, but they also require a neutral.

But you may be over thinking it. You can just do this and then get the "switch" wall mount for the remote.


Edit: I didn't fully read your post. You can program any of the Lutron remotes to control multiple Lutron lights. Mounting one and having it control multiple I think is the best solution.

You can use the Lutron Caseta for 3 way switches or more. Install the full Lutron Caseta switch in one box, and use remotes for the other boxes. You can put another switch anywhere, even if there isn't wiring there.

Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BazDyb4YRKZ8B

Remote with wall bracket
Lutron PJ2-WALL-WH-L01 Pico Remote Control with Wall Mounting Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JR202JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ObzDybQ8C594T

You need the hub as well

Hub, 1 switch, and 1 remote
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Dimmer Kit with Smart Bridge for Amazon Alexa and Selected Models, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kdzDybXVZ4ZGM

They sell the wall brackets seperate as well
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nfzDybQX74B01

Basically you can get a 2way solution for $100, and add a 3rd switch for $20

I have used these successfully with Smartthings and Vera Lite. You only need one to work with two switches. It must be wired in the box behind the switches, so you need to make sure you've got room in your box. Based on the instructions, I'm certain there is a European variant. I hope this helps.

Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R883YKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q6iIAbKA2Z3JB

I think you might be looking for this:
SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY by Osram - Smart Home- Dimming Switch for all LIGHTIFY Products Control your Smart Home System at the Touch of a Button, Works with Alexa (hub required) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8OfCybXA5VXDY
I use one with my SmartThings Hub and it works great.

I use one of these through smarthings works great. Sylvania Smart Home 73743 Lightify Smart Dimming Switch, Dimmer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3gW4Cb02M57JK

Ham radio operator here. Make sure you have proper grounding. That is, make sure you have a shielded PC case (NO BIG PLEXIGLAS WINDOWS), and make sure your power cord is properly grounded (3-prong plug into a 3-prong outlet). Make sure your outlet is appropriately grounded (get one of these). Make sure your home/building uses an appropriate ground rod at your mains feedpoint (where the power lines enter your building).

Then, ferrites on all cords leading to your audio amplifier (amplified speakers). That includes, the audio input, the power line and any speaker outputs.

You can go with something like this, which has terminals under the cover for you to wire external sensors to. I had embedded contact sensors in my exterior doors from an old (previous owner's) home security system. I just took the existing wiring, stripped the jacket back, used a multimeter to test resistance and verify the hardwired sensors still worked (installer had used 4-wire on one of the runs, even though only 2 were used, so I also had to verify which wires), and wired it into the sensor.

Here's a video I found of the terminals for external sensors.

Now I have a sleek z-wave door sensor install, with the wireless sensors tucked out of sight. Hopefully that helps!

I wouldn't assume that three prong outlet is properly wired, Someone could have just thrown it in there even if there isn't a ground wire ran to the box. You could buy a plug tester like this and it will tell you if it's wired correctly. It is possible someone could have wired the outlet to trick a tester into thinking there was a ground by jumping from the neutral to the ground.

Ultimately i would recommend having an electrician inspect the wiring in your house. Your houses original wiring is old and may not have a means to ground available at every outlet. I would find someone you can trust to take a look at everything, You don't know how many people, qualified or not, have worked in your home.

I was going to get a few Lutron plug in switches but I found the bluetooth auto-off fairly reliable. Now that latest steamvr beta allows the entire system to be turned on from the wands and headset, I think that's actually superior to a third party switch setup.

So, basically you're looking for something like this, but one that works with Google home? So far I haven't found an ir blaster compatible with GH besides the harmony hub, so let me know if you find one :)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FK2SDOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMYgAbFH4HWH5

Ensure the connection between the paintball tank and regulator will fit.

Most regulators the US are cga320, paintball tanks are not. there are adaptors that are sold for fairly cheap

I use these mechanical timers and they work perfectly:
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical-Outlet/dp/B01LPSGBZS

I use this one from amazon. It has a 120v coil so it is easier to control. I use a contactor the pool pump and one for the pool cleaner pump controlled with a dual relay z wave micro switch. But any z wave switch that you can mount will work. Many pool pump panels have a place for a switch to mount. Mine is inside the panel and works great.

There's a couple handy tools you'll want.

A receptacle tester: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU makes it easy to see if your GFCI outlet is A. wired correctly and B. trips properly. A perk here, is you can also use this tester to see if your normal outlet is chained to a GFCI outlet or on a GFCI breaker, as they'll trip just as well if you use the test button on this tool.

Actually, you can get both in one: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-STK001-Non-Contact-Receptacle/dp/B002JGQAQ6 but you want something handy to check if a wire is live. After I believe I've turned off a circuit, I test it a couple times, usually going to a live circuit too to make sure the tester is also working. I want to be super confident before I touch it.

And yeah, I usually never do electrical work without a friend present, just in case I do something dumb. Never work with electrical alone if you can avoid it.

Look into code, don't cut corners and get yourself one of these outlet testers to check your work. Like someone else said, hooking up sub panels and big jobs, have someone come in.

I'm lucky my brother in law is a very professional electrician, I always check my plans with him and I do all the work. He'll come and make the connection at the panel just to be safe, but after watching him I'd feel comfortable doing that.

Often the fireplace controllers use a low voltage input to turn on the fireplace. You need a meter if you want to know what these wires are. My guess is that one of those wires is 12/24V DC from the controller, and the switch closes the circuit. Green is just ground.

Zwave switches require 120V AC, and send that to the load. I have no idea if code allows this, but if you want a ZWave switch you'd need to borrow AC power from the adjacent box, and use a relay switch similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Zwave-Contact-Fixture-Module/dp/B00913ATFI

EDIT: Actually, looking at the reviews, the best solution would be to use this relay in the fireplace enclosure, and connect it to the current switch: https://www.amazon.com/review/R2100DM2EPKO7Q/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00913ATFI&channel=detail-glance&nodeID=228013&store=hi

I think that might be the same dry switch, but I used this one here. Pretty easy to setup and has been working for a couple of years now

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00913ATFI/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it integrated with smartthings and Google home.

They are fairly easy to install IF you are comfortable with electricity. They do come with easy to follow instructions.

Here is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wV2ozbBHNPJ6X

Amazon sells Temco wire, it's $7 for 100ft. They also have organic cotton balls, I get these.

I have an authentic Brass Monkee and it's my favorite RDA. I wish it were just a tad bigger to build on. The Tobh I have is from Tobecco, and the o-rings are shit. They frayed really quickly. Maybe I just got unlucky? While o-rings are easily replaced, the quality of the Tobecco was good, so I'd assume the Brass Monkee clone would be as well.

It sounds like some of the outlets might have a reversed hot/neutral. Get a cheap outlet tester to find out. And a pigtail adapter to test the 2-prong outlets. Fixing it is pretty simple if you are comfortable working with wiring.

Actually, if you already have a light install something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC

$20 solution that is a motion sensor for your closet light, best thing I've ever done. I can walk into the closet, light comes on, then goes off after 60 seconds to 10 minutes depending on the setting.

I highly recommend you take it to another store and ask them if they can build your first coils for you. Most places will do it for you for free if you buy a small container of ejuice from them. Ask if you can watch them build it, and ask questions about what type of wire, wick, diameter of the coil, etc. I've found that every good store is glad to help train new users and won't make you feel bad about starting in the hobby. Get used to how their coil acts, performs, etc. Some of my local places have 'build and brunch' days, where they invite lots of people to come in and get help, learn about stuff, share tips, etc.

You're also going to want a few spare batteries (so one can charge while you're using the other), a battery charger, wick, wire, and an ohm meter.

You can compare prices on Amazon to make sure you're not paying 2x retail.

Cheap ohm meter: http://amzn.com/B00KI0BMMC
I'm sure you can get better ones, but I have this. It matches the readings on my evic, so I'm reasonably sure it's accurate.

Wire cutters: http://amzn.com/B00FZPDG1K

Kanthal wire:

24g http://amzn.com/B00H8DQ01U

26g http://amzn.com/B00JTGYS40

28g http://amzn.com/B00FBSVQX6

Never hook up new coils to your battery without doing a resistance check first. Results can be very very bad.

Vision In Wall Z-Wave Micro Switch, 2 relay https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R883YKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VXCbAb1NHPYCC

Yep basically it goes on between your existing light switches and your home's wiring. The instructions arent super helpful but the top Amazon review has a really useful wiring diagram.

I think your most elegant solution would be to use this door sensor. It has 2 contacts inside that can be hooked up to preexisting wiring (aka already installed door sensor). I think one contact wired to each side of the contacts of the doorbell would work. When the button is pressed, it completes the circuit. You could also get creative and mount this back by the chime, just figure out which wires to hook it up to.

EcoLink Door sensor on Amazon for $29 works great. You add it as a Z-Wave sensor and it works fast and consistently.

Ecolink Intelligent Technology Z-Wave Door & Window Sensor, White & Brown (DWZWAVE2-ECO) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ufrnyb2JP9NZN

Yup, eagerly awaiting that enhancement too!

My ideal Hue-compatible smart-switch -- which AFAIK doesn't exist -- would be hard-wired so it could control load to the fixture as a backup, but normal operation would just send Zigbee signals for smart control.

Along those lines, I've heard of some folks using this product, which is battery-powered and fits over the top of a conventional wall-switch. So that prevents people in your household from accidentally toggling the wall-switch (but it can still be accessed on the rare occasions where it's needed.) But I personally don't care for the aesthetics of a big bulging remote on the wall. Also, I don't think that Sylvania product is directly compatible with the Hue hub; you'd need some other automation solution (SmartThings, HomeKit, etc.) to bridge those systems.

I wouldn't recommend tieing into anything after the fuse since it could overload that circuit and blow it (I doubt it will happen, but it could).

You can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ and make it a new circuit with it's own fuse.

Hope that helps.

For that kind of money you could easily get a 4-way (or 5-way) bulb adaptor plus 4-5 100w LED bulbs which would be TWICE as bright.

$14.99 for the fixture:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DVUDDC2/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3UENWQOYWIPH9

$35 for 4 LED floodlights that are 100w each:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RMK05Y2/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VCN0ZD746TM9

Pick up a motion sensing light switch for $21:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485043085&sr=8-1&keywords=motion+sensing+light+switch

That will be 500 watts versus 228 watts for only $71, saving you $50 per fixture. Got two like I do? $142 instead of $260!

Now, if something goes wrong, you can replace the bulbs or fixture cheaply. Or take it with you.

Bonus? You don't even have to remove your existing ceiling socket. This all just screws right in!

Lutron has a lamp outlet dimmer switch but you'll need to get the hub as well. There's a home assistant component which would then allow you to feed in the sunrise schedule.

I'm doubtful that a standalone dimmer like you're describing exists.

Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmer and Remote Kit, P-PKG1P-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q7GPCbYBJ7WJ8

Hmmmm, about all I can think of other than bad luck is either get a good surge protector if you don't have one or better yet a UPS as someone suggested. And while probably not super necessary having something like this isn't a bad idea to have on hand (this was just the first receptacle tester I found): https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EE0D91J1R8YBHMQEW8P5

Otherwise I think it is just bad luck or someone is coming into your home and randomly breaking your PS4.

This might work: SYLVANIA LIGHTIFY ZigBee 2 Button Wireless Dimmer Switch, Works with SmartThings, Hub Needed for Amazon Alexa or the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Jft2AbCSWS0E5

Also, if you search Amazon for Zigbee remote, a couple come up that might work. Good luck!

A Caseta plug-in lamp dimmer along with a wireless remote can do this. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1P-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY1QG0

You can mount the remote on the wall using the wall mount kit (not included with the kit above, but should be pretty easy to find). If you no longer use the switch that you’re trying to replace, you could remove that switch, tie the wires together to make that receptacle always on, then mount this wireless remote right on top of the old switch location.

Caseta has non-dimming switches that work with HomeKit. The more reasonably priced one requires neutral but the hard to find one doesn't. (For some reason it's on Amazon for $58 instead of $70+ as I write this)

These can be used to turn a fan on and off, but not control the fan speed.

I wish there was a Caseta version of this combined controller (for a reasonable price) that can work with one wire to the canopy.

My gas fireplace had a switch on the wall, so I thought a smart switch would accomplish my goal to add the ability to use Siri to control the fireplace. Realized the switch was a low powered one, not a normal light switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00913ATFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This wired between the switch allowed me to connect to the aeotec z wave hub and works great.

I think you might need an electrician. To me, it sounds like something is shorting the coax with the electrical outlet. You indicated when he tugged on the coax, a breaker tripped.
Right there, that set off flags as I was reading it. The problem may not be in the outlet right next to where he was working, but somewhere up the line from there.

I would start with a voltage tester like this
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=lp_14244481_1_12?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1487627980&sr=1-12
and go from there.

If the problem is electrical, comcast wont touch it (even if they caused it, but good luck proving that).

I'm going to give you a list with some upgraded options.

|Item|Base|Upgrade|
|-----|------|---------|
|Mod|Sentinel M16 Clone ($24.99)|Nemesis Clone($31.99)|
|RDA|IGO-W ($12.99)|
|Battery|Sony VTC5 ($10.99)|Buy more.|
|Charger|Nitecore i2 ($11.55)|Nitecore i4 ($16.25)|
|Wire|28 gauge Kanthal ($7.30)|
|Cotton|Your local drugstore, like $4)||
|Total|$71.82 + tax/shipping|All upgrades: $94.51|

You could save a couple bucks by ordering from China, but you'll be waiting quite a while for your stuff. I'm not a huge fan of the Sentinel clone, but it's really inexpensive. If you're cool waiting like a month, then I'd get the Nemesis Clone from FastTech.

Easiest first thing to do is add a Google Home (or Alexa but sounds like you’re in the Google ecosystem). This gives voice control to anyone in the house. Next I would consider adding some physical switches for the bulbs - you’ll probably need a hub like SmartThings unless you’re willing to wire them in because all the WiFi switches need power. Here is a wireless example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196M620Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9w5Xzb56QC5K0

I don't have any experience with them, but the Broadlink hubs can pair with Alexa. I was considering one before I found a good deal on a Harmony.

I've seen a few of those and honestly was wondering if they'd work on any thermostat. I've found ones like this https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549852751&sr=8-3&keywords=c+wire+adapter and wondered if I could possibly use it on, say, a Nest thermostat like this one https://www.amazon.com/Nest-T3007ES-Thermostat-Temperature-Generation/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549842584&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+thermostat&vas=%7B%27vw%27%3A%27B01E4FWXY2%27%7D or any other thermostat that required the use of a C wire to operate.

If you can stretch your $50 budget to $83, then you can get one smarthings hub and one GE outlet

I did this a couple weeks ago. Easy to set up; works great.

The way I would do it is, change the plug that's on a switch to a plug that's on all the time and use a couple of these, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY1QG0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1411994996&sr=8-3&pi=SL75. Then I would replace the switch with http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KLAXOE8/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1411995035&sr=8-6&pi=SL75 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JZRAFEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1411995035&sr=8-3&pi=SL75. Its super easy to do this way and everything is connected without trying to fish new wires in.

SOLUTION: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463308319&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+power+switch

One press of a button - done. BTW: I don´t have a good feeling that my HMD is always warm - even when turned off. So i will use this for the powerplug of the VIVE also.

A dual-relay Z-wave in-box switch and a Z-wave scene controller will get you wireless control over the fan however in order to get Alexa compatibility, you're going to need a hub of some sort (Vera, Wink, Smartthings). Alexa's commands go from the Amazon Voice Service to the smart hub's API, and the hub is what sends the actual commands to turn on/off things. Without a hub, there's nothing for Alexa to see much less control.

Trying to find a wifi solution to this is either going to be expensive as it's a single-purpose item (to control a fan/light kit) or it's going to be kludgy. You could technically get a couple of wifi appliance switches (one for fan, one for lights), however it's going to be a bit ugly up on the ceiling or on the wall wherever you tap in to get the power for the ceiling fan.

Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.

While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.

Unless you want redundancy, your thermostat can be your freeze sensor. The ecobee will send out temperature notifications and it also supports high/low thresholds on IFTTT if you're into that.

Also, look into motion sensing light switches. I use them in bathrooms and closets and they suit me well. They're a pretty cheap way to get some additional convenience.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Am I seeing correctly that this is a wood-burning furnace with electric backup? That's fun- I don't often see those around here (western PA, USA)!


Personally, I get a little nervous about splicing in wires to control boards without photos. It *looks* like you should be ok in this case, but it might be better to just use a plug-in 24V transformer (~$15 USD) https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV

If you’re going to go with option 1, I would recommend buying the book first to see what parts you need. You also might want to consider just buying the parts you need from some place like mouser electronics or sparkfun.

This meter will probably suit your needs better:

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6

In my 30 seconds of googling, Occupancy sensors looks like what I want.

I like these http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MS-OPS2-WH-Maestro-Single-Occupancy/dp/B005WM3ALC

unless someone has a better idea.

Hook the Bazooka harness's red cable to your car radio harness's orange cable. Hook the Bazooka harness's blue/white cable into your fuse box with an "add-a-circuit" available at your local Walmart or Autozone. Use some speaker wire or something to get it over there and ziptie it neatly along they way. Add it to a circuit that turns on and off with the key, maybe the cigarette lighter circuit. Hook the black ground ring to a bare metal (not painted) bolt on your car's chassis. Hook the speakers up as stated. When you're all done, make sure it works and that it turns off when your car is off. Enjoy!

It's a good sign they tested it and some battery places like that do indeed set them up properly. I'd call and tell them your situation and see if they can test the battery they sold you.


I'd pick up a cheap meter. They can be found for less than $15 and have many uses. For most things, a basic cheap one is fine.



https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521913651&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=dmm&psc=1


edit: Make sure you aren't turning the key too far counter-clockwise and leaving the tail light on (parking light) Not sure if that model has that built in to the key switch and it is not uncommon to have that happen)

Lutron Caseta will take care of that for you. Bonus: you can plug two lamps in to one, however they can't be independently controlled.

If you end up getting a hub then you can use your iPhone, or Alexa, amongst other devices to control them, however I wouldn't bother with the hub unless you expanded the switches to multiple areas of your house...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY1QG0/

Some have noted that these (https://amzn.com/B00DQ2KGNK) have worked like a champ for situations like yours.

I'm just using a plug-in lamp dimmer for mine, but there are several ways to go about it...lamp dimmer, smart bulb, smart switch...

I believe your problem is that you have Smart bulbs connected to a smart switch. If the smart switch is off then the smart bulbs wouldn't work. I would think your bulbs would still connect to wink as long as the power is on. Since they're both dimmable you probably should use the Lutron Casetta On/Off Switch rather than the dimmer.

You may also be able to pair the light with a connected bulb switch that can be wall mounted next to the regular switch using this Lutron Pico Wallplate Bracket and a 2 gang wallplate.

-Even metric sockets/wrenches from 8-14 mm
-#2 Phillips screwdriver
-flat blade screw driver
(All above are used for removal and disassembly of the battery)
-multi-meter (for testing battery voltage and checking to make sure you're not grabbing a hot lead) You can get one super cheap at Walmart. You don't need a $100 meter for most basic multi meter usage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502035847&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=multimeter+digital&dpPl=1&dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&ref=plSrch
-balance charger (for rebalancing the batteries)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036066&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=imax+b6ac+v2&dpPl=1&dpID=51GvA3h-MNL&ref=plSrch
-18 gauge wire (I made my own wire harnesses)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZRV0HV/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036364&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=18+gauge+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51CpIxqIWbL&ref=plSrch
-wire strippers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQ21CA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036896&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wire+strippers&dpPl=1&dpID=415oINm8uRL&ref=plSrch
-spade connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1753K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036854&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=red+spade+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=31HVegxklVL&ref=plSrch
-banana plugs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00APVQZ8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036751&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=banana+plugs

1. https://www.amazon.com/Ecolink-Intelligent-Technology-Z-Wave-DWZWAVE2-ECO/dp/B00HPIYJWU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555866&sr=1-1&keywords=zwave+window+sensor
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Everspring-Z-Wave-Water-Flood-Sensor/dp/B006TG9W4Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479555890&sr=1-1&keywords=water+leak+zwave
   
   
3. Same sensor as one, just seal it with silicone
   
   
4. It's natively supported by ST.
   
   
5. Personal opinion, throwing it out before it gets the best of you.