(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best electrical equipment

It actually depends on what brand and model you get. As he mentioned, the essentials are lights, speakers and blind controls. Although my own version would be: Automated house lights, appliances you use (Coffeemaker, humidifier, smart oil diffuser, heater, fan, AC) which is a huge plus and maybe whole house speakers but if you don't have many speakers like Sonos or don't care for speakers you can also go for security for your house. I'm not sure you can get very good lights or so for that price range and have a hub or smart switch to go along with it so I'll recommend you things I own and find that are within your price range.

Smart plugs $30 for 4 plugs on Amazon they are very small and impressive and work with Google and Alexa along with IFTTT. Want cheaper? Try the same ones but it's one for $8 Here.

Or two sets of smart lights Here for $24. It also works with Google and Alex along with IFTTT. Most smart plugs will be used here. You can make many of your appliances "smart" with a simple plug. I, in fact, was watching this video right now about smart home gadgets by Rick Buck on YouTube. Very very informational about smart home appliances and definitely tells you a lot about smart plugs and how to use them

Home assistant will interface with all sorts of products you can look at the Home Assistant website to see all things it interfaces with.

I will also say that this is the most active community and the fastest to incorporate new products. Over the last five months I have been tinkering with HA many new products have been incorporated.


As for the Iris Smart Plug it is a zigbee device that contains a Zwave radio. It will connect to your Zwave network and be an always on device (meaning that it will extend the reach of your mesh network) but you will not be able to control the on and off of the plug. I have two of them and they work great if you use something that has Zigbee radio.
If you are only going to utilize the Z-Stick you will want to use something like one of the following:

[Leviton VRPD3-1LW Vizia RF] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=twister_B01JJKURQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) I have this one for my Christmas tree

GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Controller

[GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Outdoor Module] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1) I have a few of these outside

As for the GE Duplex outlet, I have one or two of them but I really like the design and functionality of the Leviton VRR15-1LZ Vizia RF + Split Duplex Receptacle better.

As for light bulbs, I own Hue, Link, Cree, and maybe one more. They are all Zigbee bulbs so I connect them to the Hue hub and let it interface with HA. They work fine for my uses but I really don't care about the colors. When Lifx put its bulbs on sale a few weeks ago I almost bought some of the BR30 but didn't because they don't interface with Home Kit. I really don't need them since the fixtures already have a zwave switch but I thought it would be nice to change colors if I wanted to. Also I have found that some of the Zigbee bulbs loose the connection with the hub if they are turned on and off from a switch. I was hoping the Lifx being wifi would not do that.

Would anyone be interested in some youtube videos explaining my setup and discussing my experiences with products?

The cheap video lighting kits are a bit under powered. They're useful for learning tools (mine came with 2 reflector umbrellas and 2 translucent umbrellas, but they're not 100% effective, and might end up bouncing light from around the room into your shot more than just from the surface of the umbrella. Additionally, one light behind one umbrella doesn't really overpower ambient window light the way I imagined it would. I was brand new to it so maybe they work well to fill in shadow, but i think a rig with multiple bulbs will be more effective at providing the controlled, directional light you may be looking for.

I ended up getting a pair of speedlight mounts to use them as off camera flash stands & modifiers which was fun; but since the umbrellas aren't huge, the height of the actual speed light is significantly off center so it's mainly the top half of the umbrella that's providing the most illumination. It's much better than a bare strobe, but I feel like it's not really using the full potential of the entire umbrella's surface to diffuse light. Something like this S-type bracket will hold a speedlight in the center of an octobox or another modifier, and that seems much more effective for strobe photography. It's not much more expensive, so it still pairs well with the light stands from the cheap video lighting kit as an upgrade.

Even as a not super effective intro kit, it's a decent baseline to get you shooting and practicing and figuring out what you'll need to find your shooting style. Kind of like how it's helpful to start with a kit lens before spending hundreds or thousands on a pro level camera/lens combo just to discover that I don't know shit about photography and expensive equipment is a budget overkill.

If you want to go with CFLs then this could be useful: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091HO0FY/

Its a photography 4 way socket that comes already wired. I've seen it used a few times in the sub, though I can't find an example right now. I have that socket on the home page of the website, it saves a lot of time and wiring. You can't put the bulbs sideways with this configuration though, but it will work fine.

The other option was already mentioned by /u/trancepticon, UFO LED lights are great for bucket grows, they fit perfectly in a lid.

Cheers and good luck! Welcome to the sub

You just want to make sure whatever smart switches you buy support 3-way configurations. Lutron Caseta does this by using their Pico Remotes, which is nice because the Picos are cheaper and easier to install than a second smart switch, but look and function pretty much just like a wired switch. I believe Caseta also offers a more expensive smart switch that allows traditional 3-way wiring too if for whatever reason you didn't want to use the Pico remotes.

You can see what I'm talking about here: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=3-0-VW5kZXIgJDc1&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07HM6L48C&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

The switch comes with a "remote kit" (the Pico), which when screwed in to a switch box looks just like the switch, and the remote pairs to the switch to control the same light seamlessly. Lutron provides very good instructions for their products too.

edit: This starter kit adds the required hub as well, and includes everything you would need for your stair lights. Some will scoff at hubs, but it's needed for Caseta because they use RF for wireless communication, and I think the hub is worth it for Caseta at least because it's probably the fastest responding, most reliable smart switches available. Hubless Wi-Fi switches will never be as reliable and consistent. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkNzUgYW5kICQxMDA%3D&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07G5V6M6G&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

I didn't have the dorm experience, but I lived far enough from campus that I would hang out there all day most days.

Quality shoes - you will be walking quite a bit. Depending on your style, consider something like a waterproof hiking shoe that will last through some like snows.

Reusable water bottle that will fit in your backpack well. Sparty's will fill it up, or you can use the drinking fountains.

I'm a fan of some of the /r/edc stuff as well, a small flashlight can be very useful, and shouldn't run over $20.

A small plug splitter, would be very useful. I have a more complicated one, but if I did it again, I'd get this. A lot easier to charge your laptop/phone when you don't have to convince someone to unplug theirs.

Either a collapsible umbrella or packable raincoat.

Extra headphones. I'm lucky enough to have accumulated several pairs of iphone earbuds, so if I lose/break one, I'm still okay.

A bit more expensive, but I bought 25 feet of white LED strip and plug it into a smart plug. The plug is controlled by Alexa and also activates via a motion detector after 8pm and stays on for 5 minutes. Under $50 for the motion detector, smart plug and lights.

Here are some links to the set up. There are tons of different versions of these items (most are just rebrands from China). I do use a Smart Things Hub at home to manage everything, but there are hub-less ways to set this up as well. Check /r/homeautomation if you want to travel this rabbit hole. i also recommend setting up a SlickDeals alert for Zwave if you want great deals on smart devices.

Motion Detector

Plug (This is different than the one I use, but the least expensive option.)

Leds

You could try fishing a neutral wire from the ceiling fixturewall outlet to the switchbox. I've done it in my house, but I don't know if I would try it in an apartment.

Alternative products: Since this switch controls an outlet, it's against code to use a dimmer switch on it. And dimmer switches are the only "smart" products I'm aware of that can operate without a neutral.

You're probably better off replacing the wall outlet with a smart outlet or any smart wall wart. Here's GE's in-wall smart outlet since you seem to be leaning toward zwave already.

You can control that smart outlet with something like GE's wall controller or velcro an aeotec minimote to the wall and use that. Even better - you could use an Amazon Echo for control - I rarely physically interact with smart switches since I got a modicum of automation running and a few Echos around the house for voice control.

Not worth $60 IMO. I have one of these guys and highly recommend it -
https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-MS8261-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474646922&sr=8-1&keywords=mastech+8268

Looking through the reviews it seems like they send out the occasional lemon unit, but I've had mine for 3 years now on the same battery and it's awesome, especially for a $25 multimeter. I've tested it alongside a friend's $400 Fluke meter and it's very accurate. It also includes an attachment for reading transistor gains, which is especially helpful if you get into using germanium transistors. It's rated for 1000VDC so I use it when working on tube amps as well.

If you get into building pedals these are also worth picking up -
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Multifunction-Transistor-Resistance-Inductance/dp/B00NKY3M1W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1474647579&sr=8-13

It will measure inductance & and it's invaluable for getting quick gains and pinouts for transistors. It's not a substitute for a meter but it makes stuff like identifying a mystery transistor or matching FETs a breeze.

Agreed. Lutron Caseta are the absolute best way to integrate lights in HomeKit. Simple install (no neutral wire required). Reliable. Responsive.

By the way, what you are describing is called a 3-way light switch (I know its weird, because you have two switches — it has to do with the way the wiring works). I have dozens of Lutron Caseta dimmers in both three-way and four-way installations. This kit on amazon gives you both the main switch and a Pico remote for the second switch.

What is great about this is that inanition to giving you HomeKit control, the physical dimmers you install work to control the lights just like your current physical switches, which is handy both for you and your guests.

Don't forget, starting our you will need to get their Bridge to integrate their dimmers into HomeKit. Usually the best thing to do is to get their Starter Kit.

And by the way, getting a system that requires bridge is not a negative. It keeps traffic off of your wi-fi network and provides a much faster response from HomeKit, because you HomeKit hub only needs to communicate with the Bridge, and not each device individually. Also the Lutron radio protocol is optimized for responsive, reliable design with very little latency, unlike Wi-Fi.

Programmable light switches are super handly for when you're out of town and want to make it look like you're home, and if you're forgetful about turning off lights.

Keypad deadbolt never worry about getting locked out. If someone is house sitting you can give them the code and then change it when you get home.

Energy saving outlets are great for things like charging cell phones or computers and keeping your power bill lower.

Wifi thermostat. I think Nest is overrated and expensive for what it is.

Electric crockpot-pressure cooker-rice cooker-yogurt maker. This thing does it all, seriously. Pressure cookers are awesome for getting things cooked quickly so you can buy cheaper groceries (dried beans vs. canned). Slow cookers are great for tough pieces of meat, roasts, soups... They're also great in summer as they don't heat up the whole kitchen. It being multi-purpose is a bonus for kitchen space.

If you chose to go the rebuilding route this is what you need, and some atty suggestions at the end.

You need- wire- http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JVXVKB0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413428261&sr=8-2&keywords=kanthal+a1

cotton- either balls or pads http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-80-Count/dp/B00CD8FCRI/ref=sr_1_6?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1413428355&sr=1-6&keywords=organic+cotton http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Labo-ORGANIC-Puff-200pc/dp/B000TCD51A/ref=pd_ybh_5

drill bit set- http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Drill-Bit-Set-13-Piece-45110/204590609#product_description

Tweezers- any pharmacy

Disposable butane torch- any gas station

ohm reader- http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html
(most regulated mods have a built in one, but a reliable and exact external ohm meter is very good to have)

rebuildables- tanks- kayfun https://www.fasttech.com/p/1605200 (google some kayfun build tutorial videos, stay under 20 watts while vaping on it)

drippers- magma https://www.fasttech.com/p/1718100
zenith https://www.fasttech.com/p/1770202

(both of those drippers are a good start because you can block 1 air intake and make single coils untill you are comfortable enough to build dual coils)

I own these drippers and that tank. They are the cheapest clones on the market but all work great. Shipping takes 3 weeks, chose first class china e-packet as shipping option

OPTIONAL- coil jig, no need for drill bits, MAKES COIL BUILDING EASY https://www.fasttech.com/p/1878301 (I've honestly never tried this, but I recently ordered one to try out, should have it in 2 weeks)

Lutron Caseta Dimmer does not use a Neutral. On sale today as well.
Amazon Link

The consumer Smart Bridge works with Home Assistant after you use a couple Python scripts to get some key values and cert files.https://www.home-assistant.io/components/lutron_caseta/

I have 2 of the Caseta switches, a bunch of Hue Bulbs, and Leviton Z-Wave in wall dimmers. I like them all honestly and haven't had any problems so far.

I think the Hue Bulbs produce the widest range of dim light. I have "dimmable" LED bulbs where I have the in-wall smart switches installed and the lowest dim level is still pretty bright compared to the dimmest setting on a hue bulb. To get better dimming you have to buy the better LED bulbs which can run $9 plus depending on what you get, in which case you're approaching Hue Bulb pricing.

So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.

> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?

It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.

Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.

But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.

I personally have used both the Leviton smart plug, but have come to actually like the Inovelli one as you can control both sides = more Christmas lights :)

As for outdoor, GE seems to be the only one out there now, but supposedly per Inovelli's Facebook page, they are coming out with one soon.

Here's the link to both the Leviton one I've used as well as the Inovelli one (indoor):

Leviton - https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Decora-Appliance-Module-Z-Wave/dp/B00LEWQYC6

Inovelli - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K6J1Y1I

Outdoor:
GE - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O

Inovelli - https://www.facebook.com/inovelliUSA/photos/a.1899373336993353.1073741829.1702973266633362/1899528456977841/?type=3&theater

As for setting the sunset/sunrise -- that can be done via the Smart Lights SmartApp within the ST app (Marketplace > SmartApps > SmartThings Recommends > Smart Lights)

Lastly, as for the space heater -- I would advise against that as if the plug doesn't turn off or it tips over, it could cause a fire :/ -- but if you really want to, just check the Maximum Rating on various smart plugs and make sure your space heater does not exceed it.

Virtually all smart switches require a neutral (typically a white wire). Some dimmers only require 3 connections (live, load, and ground).

Smart bulbs are the easiest solution, but the most expensive (and annoying) in the long term (if the switch is off you can't control the light from other devices)

For using smart switches running an additional wire from the switch box to the neutral bus in the breaker box is an option but is usually the most labor intensive option. For other options you need to identify how the switches were wired. There are 3 common ways:

1. Best case: there are 2 sets of wires in the switch box, and 1 set of wires in the load box. This requires no new wiring you can simply install the smart switch
   
2. This are 2 black wires in the switch box (and possibly ground wire(s)), and 1 set of wires in the load box. In this case the builder likely cut the black wire and ran it into the box and the neutral is uncut behind the switch box. In this case you can remove the box cut the remaining wires and run all the wires into the box.
   
3. There is 1 full set of wires (black, white, and ground) in the switch box and 2 sets of wires in the load box, there are 2 options here, 1. rerun the wires between the switch and load boxes with 3 conductor wire (black, red, white, and ground) black as live, red as load, white as neutral, or 2. use a micro switch like: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4/ in the load box.
   
   Hopefully that helps.

The Lutron Caseta switches don't require a neutral. They are Alexa, Harmony Hub, and Apple HomeKit compatible. They also work with IFTTT. They do have their own hub but they are rock solid. They are by far the most reliable bit of smart home tech that I have (even more so than Hue). Pricey but worth it. They are more buttons than switches but I like the way they look.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MXCRAX8/ref=psdcma_507840_t1_B00JJY0S4G#

The standard dimmer includes a remote that can easily replace a three-way switch. They are super versatile (LED, CFL, or incandescent) and work with Lutrons really expensive blinds if you have that kind of money :)

Do you mean a normal side and a dimmer side, for two separate lights/loads, in a single gang? No, I don't.

If you mean a smart switch for a single load, with separate normal and dimming actions, Lutron Caseta has four buttons (on/off with dim up/down in the middle). Those are quite popular, mainly due to their ability to work without requiring a neutral in the electrical box, plus the flexibility of their Pico remote that pairs with them, allowing 3-or-more-way switches, even in places that aren't wired, but won't work directly with Alexa without picking up a Lutron Caseta hub.

Switch/Pico kit
Switch/Pico/hub kit
Pro hub (if needed, for example, with a solution like Hubitat)

GE makes Decora-style paddles that are tap top on, tap bottom off, and hold top/bottom for dimming; they're Zwave and work with Alexa ... if you have the 2.0 with smart home hub. They need a neutral, however.

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch (also Zwave Plus and Zigbee options)

GE and Lutron also make ceiling fan controls that match their light switch products.

Kanthal is typically used and will be your most commonly seen wire. I only know of Gplat as an alternative (I used it... not worth the price increase IMO) I get mine from Amazon, I originally started with 28 gauge, then a buddy let me borrow his 26 gauge, that was good too. I purchased some 24 gauge and it drains my batteries hard (which is why I want a dual box mod.)

Yes, a mod is the housing. Then you will need your atomizer and battery.

I started dripping with the IGO-w atty with the Smok Magneto Mod. Biggest problem I had with it is it was small and i had to drill the air holes. I still use the Magneto.

I would never suggest tank anything. I tried both the genuine and the clone russian 91% and it was a terrible experience.

So, for a beginner getting into dripping I would suggest these parts:

[Plum Veil Atomizer] (http://www.eciggity.com/plume-veil-clone-by-tobeco/) (Note! I have not bought anything from this site.)

ANY single battery 18650 mechanical mod. They all realistically do the same thing. RipTrippers.com does a lot of reviews, they should be able to point you in the right direction. I do however suggest one with a magnetic fire button instead of spring. (It will lower resistance and last longer because springs are weaker than magnets)

Atleast 2 [18650 Sony batteries] (http://www.myvaporstore.com/SONY_VTC5_18650_2600mAh_Battery_Flat_Top_30A_p/sny65026-f.htm)

Charger I chose the two battery one for money purposes but I suggest the 4 since it's only like $5 more and can charge a myriad of batteries

[These clamp things] (http://www.amazon.com/5-5-KELLY-Hemostat-FORCEPS-Straight/dp/B000QWK174/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1414788271&sr=8-6&keywords=medical+clamps) makes building much easier

I use these but a lot of people use nailclippers

[Wire] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Lightning-Vapes-Kanthal-Resistance/dp/B00JVXVKB0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414788396&sr=8-2&keywords=28+gauge+kanthal+wire) either 28 or 26 gauge is what I would recommend.


Cotton Balls

[Ohm Tester] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBNCOMG/ref=s9_simh_gw_p328_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=0J7AHRP45YSC4DHAS7DB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846)

Drill bits, allen keys or screwdriver to wrap coils around (i usually use Allen Keys)

Another Screwdriver for you builds

Tweezers are nice for accurate adjustments

Some people suggest a torch.... it's a waste of money for most builds. The main idea behind them is they are used to burn off any chemicals on the wire... but when you are done building you just fire it a few times before you put cotton in them and it does the same thing. Some builds need a more flexible wire... that is the only time you will need it.

Note: I 100% support the use of Clones, especially when you are starting out your vape life. They save so much money and do an adequate (if not better) job of most authentics.

I think rampant destruction is one of the things that you just have to be prepared for when you decide to have pets or small children, it comes with the territory :-) No matter how careful you try to be, the best you can do is plan on the fact that something will get destroyed, and try to make sure that it doesn't end with a trip to the emergency vet/hospital.

I have a very curious Great Dane who's now 16 months old. Even in his puppy days he was big enough to reach my vanity table-top and/or knock the table over. A few months ago I solved the problem entirely by moving my battlestation into my master closet, which is a walk-in. Dexter is afraid of the bathroom (which is between the bedroom and closet), so he won't go near it at all. It didn't sound like you have a place to put your stuff that's off-limits to the cats, so here are some other things I've done in the past to pet-proof my valuables-

• Make everything as inaccessible as possible. Do you have free wall-space where you could mount a shelf that the cats can't get to? It would have to be high enough off the floor and far enough away from launching points for the cats to jump to, so it depends on how agile they are :-)
  
  
• Make everything as stationary as possible. Velcro picture-hanging strips (like this) are great. Just put one side on the bottom of anything you don't want to be knocked over and the other side on the surface where it sits. Mirror, lamp, storage containers, etc.
  
  
• Don't leave things dangling. I'm thinking primarily of lamp cords, but really anything that might make a tempting toy or get snagged when pets get the zoomies. Cords can be tacked down with cable clips or even taped down with duct tape.
  
  
• Regarding lights - lamps with flexible necks might be a good option. If they're secured to the table, a cat hitting them should just move the lamp head instead of knocking the whole thing to the floor. LED lamps might also be a little more resistant to bulb breakage.
  
  
• Don't leave any small items lying around. Containers for everything, seriously. I store my makeup in acrylic drawers like this and this. Both are pretty difficult to open without opposable thumbs. I got mine from Amazon, but they're really generic and you can find the exact same things on ebay. They're fairly light and could get knocked over, so I'd recommend the picture-hanging strips to secure them to the table/shelf/whatever. I bet you could also use adhesive-backed velcro to rig up little 'latches' on the drawers.

Well, that's easy! Just need some cash and I will guide you to the rest. Okay, istick30- http://www.eciggity.com/eleaf-istick-30w-battery/
that will replace your evod. Also, if you don't want to mess with an atomizer go with but a solid vape-http://sweet-vapes.com/apvs/joyetech/joyetech-egrip-20-watt.html

Okay, if you are currently rocking an evod...I will make the assumption that you would be new to rebuilding(which is making the coils, instead of buying prebuilt ones...not meaning to over explain but if you are new, I just want to inform you).
You will need to watch some videos on how to build coils- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfuOOgOvjL4 (also a solid review of the Taifun GT2)
Then you need to purchase the Taifun GT2- https://www.fasttech.com/product/2047800

You will also need 28 gauge kanthal A1- http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-Wire-32mm-Resistance/dp/B00JVXVKB0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422333395&sr=8-2&keywords=kanthal+a1

And I suggest japanese cotton-http://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Labo-ORGANIC-Puff-200pc/dp/B000TCD51A/ref=pd_sim_misc_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JSXYVNPVVYFJVCYDTZ0

And if you are going this far, get the best juice- http://www.stasheliquids.com/collections/drippers-paradise/products/my-sweet-one?variant=928219087

So search youtube for Taifun builds-https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=taifun+builds

Then replicate-
And if you need some help- let me know and I will build some coils and send them to you pre-wicked...but I would suggest just going for it...tweezers...scissors...drill bit around 1/8in or just get a shitty set and you are good.
Remember- idiots build coils all the time...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDz0otQmSH4

I love a good Home Depot run as much as the next, but also, make sure you aren't getting price-gouged: on Amazon. And you are very welcome. I like to help.

I've had one of these for a few years now. I consider it a pretty great investment as it's helped me out several times. Power supply tester.

Personally, I'm now in the habit of always using a UPS. The best part? I keep my internet stuff on a UPS too and I usually have internet during power outages. It's great.

This is some information about power strips.

When you hit the power button, does anything at all happen? Is there any clicking? Do the motherboard lights eventually go out? Do you have to reset the PSU before you can do anything? Or is it just absolutely flat out nothing when you press the switch?

I have a MyQ with Liftmaster openers, so I haven’t tried this but if you’re willing to use Aladdin Connect then it looks like you may be able to tweak the settings via the Lowe’s IRIS app, then use a Homebridge plugin to add it to HomeKit.

EDIT: I really don’t know if that’s possible without Aladdin in the mix.

This might be another option (maybe else someone can verify):

BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make your Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart through WiFi | Works with Alexa, Google Home | Remote Control with App | Works with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/

Bond Bridges support RFs between 300 MHz - 434 MHz, but I’m not sure if they can support garage doors yet. It works well for my ceiling fans though.

EDIT: Homebridge plugin here: https://www.npmjs.com/package/node-iris-aladdin-connect-garage-door

EDIT 2: It also just dawned me that Bond does not support HomeKit natively yet. It can be made to work with some Homebridge plug-ins, but I doubt that would help with the garage door problem.

The problem is that your husband works 60 hours a week, so you are expected to be the parent the 60 hours he is unavailable, while doing the whole "emotional labor" for everyone in the house (like having to even bring up the fact that you need a service to clean - that should have been obvious).

This pace will not be able to be kept up.

When I had a hectic schedule I would do crockpot freezer meals...You have to prep a bunch, which will easily take up one of your days off (shopping one day, prepping the next, b/c it's really too much to do on one day). But what I usually did was planned about 20-30 crockpot meals that I could put in the crockpot and put it on a timer so it would turn itself off and on (couldn't just do this with the machine - maybe you can now...but my machine had a timer that let me start it hours after I left, but then it just went into "warm" mode after- which was still too hot and left the meal unappealing and kind of like mush, so I used a light timer to automatically shut off my machine. It was still warm when it was time to eat. I would use bag salad, frozen bread/canned biscuits, frozen veggies as sides...b/c they were all quick and tended to be ready in under 15 minutes.

It sounds like you're not home for meals for a few of the days, though. So even this may not be an option. Is your husband home during this time and HE could do things that a normal adult does at mealtime?

This isn't a sustainable existence unless you have A LOT more help - like a nanny taking care of the kids and also doing the shopping, and a few general chores so on your days off you aren't running around like a mad person.

About your Cons. (1) I know it's not the same, but you can control the switches using Tasker, Send/Expect Tasker Plugin & AutoRemote Tasker Plugin. Let me know if you'd like the links for how to do so and I'll dig them up for you :) (2) I know it's not ideal, but if you're concerned about the second outlet not being available (which many people are, and for good reason) you can always opt for something like this outlet adapter from Amazon. This one in particular would work well because the plugs are sideways, meaning the tp-link plug won't be hogging the other outlet. Plus, you'll get an additional spot or two for small-plugged appliances such as lamps.

I have all of my outdoor lighting automated.

• Front Porch
  
• Back Door
  
• Back Deck
  
• Detached Garage Light
  
• Low Voltage Outdoor lighting
  
  In combination with a few other devices, door sensors, ring door bell for motion, garage door automation (MyQ) etc. I can setup a multitude of different scenarios. Open the front door, lights go full brightness, close door dim them back down. Motion from the ring at night, crank the brightness up. Open the garage door, turn on the light above the garage to full brightness. Most of the lights turn on about 15 mins before sunset with some nice transitions in brightness.
  
  I use GE Z-Wave Outdoor Modules that I plug into the low voltage transformers that are always set to the on position. That way I can just toggle the switch on thus turning on the transformer and the lights.
  
  
  In most of the outdoor fixtures I use Smart Bulbs (the lights that are shielded from the elements). My front porch I use Hue Color that I automated for holiday lights. I have a detached garage that I
  put in a Lutron Caseta dimmer since the switch was in the house.
  
  
  Essentially I used a variety of devices to tackle each lighting situation based on what would work best and then automate everything with Home Assistant. You can see all my devices and automations here.
  

It seems like it is ok. One good way to test the power output of a PSU is with a tester. One like this is nice to have on hand.

Or you could use software, such as HWiNFO. It can monitor your PSU as well as other aspects of your machine.

I would also suggest popping onto /r/fixapc/ and posting this if you haven't already.

Did you build this PC yourself?

I would suggest checking to make sure that the stand-offs are properly installed. Also check your ground connection. It's definitely power related. Like something is retaining power that shouldn't or something is getting power that it shouldn't or something is not getting power that it should. Which is why I am checking for a short (the standoffs and ground). The other thing I would suggest is trying another power supply. You could also get yourself one of these to test your power supply. You don't need to get that fancy of one if you are OK with basic readouts. I just don't know what you skill level is when it comes to electrical work. If it's not the powersupply and not the standoffs I would lean towards the MoBo.

Good luck!

I got this done in fewer steps with my Echo. It should work the same on Google Home since you're interfacing with Samsung SmartThings.

For the longest time I was trying to find a WiFi-controlled switch, and I found it with the WeMo Maker. I didn't want to go the RPi route, but certainly that makes a lot of sense.

Here's the complete list of what you'll need for my method.

-WeMo Maker
-Samsung SmartThings hub (no device needed since we'll make a virtual switch)
-IFTTT
-Echo/Google Home

1. Set up the Wemo maker to work with your fireplace. I'm not an electrician, but my gas fireplace previously used an RF-controlled momentary switch. It's just two red wires, when held together, that starts the flame. I put those wires into the switch controller of the WeMo maker and was immediately able to control the fireplace with the switch.
   
   
2. Create a new Virtual Switch in SmartThings (Google how to do it, it's not difficult), and call it "Fireplace"
   
   
3. Connect IFTTT to your WeMo and SmartThings account. Use IFTTT to have the SmartThings virtual switch turn on the WeMo Maker. Confirm it works.
   
   
4. Use the Alexa app to "discover devices" which should find the SmartThings virtual switch "Fireplace"
   
   
5. Boom: saying "Alexa, fireplace on" or "Alexa, fireplace off" works!
   
   Bonus! I bought a cheap Z-wave remote, interfaced it with SmartThings, and had it toggle the virtual switch. So I can put one of these remotes in my bedroom near my nightstand and when I wake up in the morning, hit the button and boom, fire is warming up. You can have multiple removes that do this same thing. My wife hates talking to my Echo (she refuses to talk to a cylindrical object--can someone give her a pep talk lol), so the remote is a good backup for her to use. This is what I used:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480279272&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+minimote
   
   Happy to answer any questions about this method :)

2 600w LEDs and it doesn't exceed 850w on the whole smart plug.
power pictures

Edit: in the power pictures you can see I took extra precaution. Most everything in the tent has built in trips, but I don't trust those or my apartment. I bought these extension cords then routed every plug through one of those to my battery backup using a 1ft extension when needed. Finally, everything is going to a smart plug with energy monitoring so I can calculate what I cost the energy bill every month. This allows me to make sure I grow the value of what I spend on growing at least. So far, I'm still running about even at $40 a month.

Well you say you warm the engine up for 10mins, but that's only the engine, your trans will still be 90% cold (all but little bit of conductive heat from the engine). Do you happen to have a garage? You could get a transmission pan heater (might as well get an oil pan heater too) then you can just set one of those wall timer things, just wire them up so the cords are on the driver's side, and hopefully you have an outlet on the driver's side, then you can just plug them in when you get home and unplug them before you leave. I'd set the timer 2 hours before you leave, and then you could start your truck like 5 minutes before you leave (just so the oil has enough time to go through everything, but the block should be warm anyways, just an extra safety measure i guess). I'd highly recommend doing it.

Heater

Mechanical Timer

I'm not too familiar with 0-10v systems so I read up a bit. It appears that you do need a low voltage traveler wire to feed all the way to the switch. I don't believe the one I linked will work as your fixtures are still designed to work on 120vAC and that PWM dimmer is low voltage DC only.

Is this in your home or a garage i.e. - does it need to be aesthetically pleasing? My shop lights are simply plugged in to a standard two outlet receptacle. You could cut in a 4 outlet receptacle and wire one of the dimmer switches next to the main outlet at the beginning of the circuit. The switch on the wall would then control the power going to that switch, but you'd be able to set the level of brightness and then not touch it.

Another option (and I don't know if this is feasible or even code compliant) is to use the neutral wire as the control wire. The specs on that Lutron state that no neutral wire is required for operation. Just so long as you labeled it properly (similar to how the neutral can be used as load in certain situations) I don't see why you couldn't run it from your lights to the switch as the 10v control wire. I only know enough about this to be dangerous though so I'm sure someone will downvote or correct as necessary. Please don't do this without confirmation from the manufacturer/electrician.

Edit: I think this controller from Lutron might be just the ticket. Per the manual you can control it with any number of their Pico switches and it does all of the dimming wirelessly via RF. You can also connect it to a wall switch, a handheld switch, etc., and even control it via the Amazon Echo if you want. Just did a little extra reading though and apparently you need their hub to control the wireless connection. Once you have that, though, you can add any number of switches (I think to an extent) to any number of circuits and even integrate your lights with Smartthings, Vera, HomeSeer, or one of the supported automation hubs. Granted, you're looking at $100 for the hub/switch starter kit and another $80 for the 0-10v, but your'e also eliminating the hassle of wiring (aside from wiring the control wire from the ballast to the Lutron controller) and setting yourself up for automation, if that's something you're into. We have our under cabinet lights and a couple other things hooked to a SmartThings hub and the Echo and it's pretty convenient.

I put these USB outlets in a few areas around the house where I typically charge my phone or am sitting for awhile - near the beds, at the kitchen island and drop zone, by the recliner and bar, etc. Make sure to get ones that provide a high-mAh output. Mine put out 2.4mAh at each port, not total. I didn't bother with QuickCharge compatible but you could.

I just built my house a few years ago and had Cat6 Ethernet wired to each room along with RG6 coax. I do wish I'd have had the contractors put in conduit to make running future lines easier, so you could consider that. (Home theater down the line? Run conduit so you can hide your cables and receiver elsewhere! etc.)

If you're handy or run power tools in the garage often, consider a subpanel for the garage with some 20A circuits. I trip my 15A circuits once or twice a summer when I have a shop vac, table saw, and maybe one other device running simultaneously, and when I eventually get into welding I'll be limited by my lack of 220V out in the garage.

If you want security cameras outside, you could think about running Ethernet out to some soffits and using PoE compatible cameras.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck!

I'm assuming you don't already have a switch in the place you'd like to add one? In that case, a zwave remote is your best bet. If you want something that looks like it belongs on a wal, this would be a good option. If you just want a cheap solution, a minimote would also work.

I have posted Amazon links to what I use below. You should be able to do under $20 for just 5 plants. I haven't used these long but my plants seem like they are pretty happy with it so far.

The lamp.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQ94C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bulb.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P29K1S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Optional Timer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHED0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You have PERFECT timing, ComputerByte! I've been trying to puzzle out the solution to my holiday outdoor lighting woes and realized today that there is such a thing as an outdoor porch light outlet adapter - a little gizmo that screws into the light bulb socket and turns into outlets that things like Christmas string lights can be plugged into. :D

Of course, the one I found had to be an add-on item, so I stuck it on my wishlist and procrastinated further - Leviton 1403 Two Outlet Socket Adapter, Black.

Let's see, number 1-100 - I'll take 73.

I hope your mood improves! How's your little dog doing? EDIT wait no you're a cat person! Furry animal person? How's the small animal I know I've had a conversation with you about? :p

I don't like the analog timers because they make clicky noises. I've also been through A LOT of various timers on Amazon because I own 2 auto cat feeders along with my multitude of reptile lights. I will break down my experience for you:

Enover TS18 Digital Timer -- I needed this for my triple-prong power strip and it worked for a couple months but then started turning the "random" feature on by itself and wouldn't turn off in the evening. Junked.

Westek TE08WHB Timer Strip -- I really like this one and I still use it for a couple of my cages. I like that 4 are timed and 4 are always on. NOTE though that when the power goes out this does NOT keep the time and will reset, which is very annoying.

WenTop Digital Timer -- I used this one for my single cat feeder for awhile, but it eventually stopped working for some reason. I never figured out why but it stopped turning anything on. Junked.

Century Digital Timer -- I bought a second feeder and needed a timer that had 2 outlets. This one has worked well so far, but you may just need a single outlet.

Woods 50006WD Analog Timer -- I still use these when my digital timers break lol. Honestly, they're really reliable, they just make that clicky sound that drives me nuts. But it's a great deal if you're just looking for something that works with no frills.

Nearpow Digital Timer -- My most recent purchase. I've only been using it for a few weeks but has been working fine. It has a bunch of settings, I have no idea what all of them do, I just need it to turn the lights off and on lol.

I am also looking for something very similar, except I would like it to be powered off of 120v AC. Right now I am using Aeon Minimote spliced together with an addon remote switch.

The addon remote switch is essentially just a button that looks like a light switch. I soldered the button from that to one of the buttons on the Aeon Minimote, so when I push the remote switch button it is the same as pressing the Aeon Minimote button.

The minimote is small already, but you can remote the casing so it can fit under other switches in the gang box, as well as remove the unnecessary parts of the remote switch that make it hook into the standard 120v lines like a normal light switch.

I have two problems with this solution which is why I am still looking for a better solution:

1. It is battery powered so I will need to take it out and recharge it every ~4-6 months.
   
2. It seems to not register the 1st push most of the time, which is pretty annoying and has low WAF. I usually need to wait a second to see if the lights respond, or push once and push and hold which I have mapped to full brightness.
   This may be a problem with my remote, or a signal strength/connection issue since the remote is inside the metal gang box inside the wall.
   
   
   I am trying to control Hue lights (on/off) with a normal looking light switch, and am open to other ideas if people have them. I figure if I can fix the connection issue, I will live with them being battery powered.

nightcore $11.80 amazon, vtc4 $11-pair amazon, vtc5 $22-pair amazon, when purchasing batteries always buy from a reputable source and do your end by reading reviews and viewing photos to be sure you are comfortable purchasing from any vendor, ohm reader = $20 atleast for a dedicated one potentially less if you use a cheap and possibly unreliable multimeter, kanthal 28g 100feet $6.50 amazon, wick = $?free-$$? type source amount etc. Doesn't factor in shipping or tax. The only reason I linked amazon is due to them being very good about protecting their buyers issuing returns and refunds when needed. Prices may be cheaper from other sources.

Well, its certainly not a bad PSU (model-wise), but its possible something could be wrong inside it. You would need to test it, either with a tester, or with an alternate PSU.

Tester: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

If you haven't already, try to open your case, inspect all the cables and cords carefully. Make sure nothing is touching your fans or poking against any electronics. Also, make sure you are using zip-ties or velcro for cable management. NEVER use twist-ties, they have an aluminum core in them.

Give your PC a good dust-out with air cans. Once you are done, recheck for the noise. If there is ANY concern that its the power supply, do not keep using it until you have it tested or test it yourself. Some PC shops and Micro Centers can test power supplies but I don't know if they do it for free or charge.

Digital multimeter... here's a couple decent looking ones that should do most of what you want.

Of course Fluke makes the best, but they certainly charge for it.

I have a Craftsman Professional myself and it's perfectly fine.

So it sounds like the thing to do would be to fix the broken speaker wire. There's a number of ways to do that. I'll list them in decreasing difficulty, and also decreasing quality of fix.

You could:

• Run entirely new wire from the factory wiring harness to the speaker in the door.
  
• Find the break and run new wire from the break to the speaker.
  
• Find the break and just splice in a new bit of wire.
  
  The DMM will come in handy for a lot of things (checking grounds, seeing if your RTO is working, checking fuses, verifying continuity of wires - which you're doing here). If you get a good one now, it'll last you years (I've had mine for more than 10 years and I use it at least a couple times a month for all sorts of automotive and household things!).

It is possible that irregular voltages could have damaged the GPU, but likely it's OK.

The best way to test a PSU is with an actual tester, this is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463180347&sr=8-2&keywords=power+supply+tester

You can also test each rail manually with a multimeter: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/toolsofthetrade/ht/power-supply-test-multimeter.htm

I can say with about 85% certainty that a new PSU will clear up your issues, but there is a small chance it's damaged another component.

www.gocontrol.com/detail.php?productId=12

I have no personal experience with this particular device but I do use go control door/window sensors without issue.

Another option, over $100 spendy! http://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/z-wave-lighting/dimmer-switches/battery-operated-z-wave-dimmer-switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KU7ERAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498307662&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+remote+control&dpPl=1&dpID=41TL10uhQxL&ref=plSrch

This is what I use to control Caitlin fans and lights in the house. Four buttons capable of two commands each. Light control and fan control in a small package. This is one of the best zwave deals out there.

I've been using Lutron Caseta light switches+hub with Alexa for the past few years. These are expensive but of very high quality. I believe the Lutron Smart Bridge is required to connect to Alexa; you can get the starter kit from Amazon, but prices tend to be better on eBay.

There is a healthy discussion of this and other options in the homeautomation reddit, so that's worth checking out if you go down this road.

The switch I'm installing tonight/tomorrow is just a GE Z-wave switch, one of these. The fan that I have operates on standard 110 power, it's almost exactly one of these

Installing it last weekend was a lot of work, so I haven't ran a real switch to it yet. I cheated and wired it up to an extension cord, and plugged that in to a wifi outlet. I just wanted to see it in action and ran out of time before mother's day plans happened.

So no existing timer switch yet. If I wasn't doing a z-wave switch, I'd be installing a timer switch like you have. That's what my neighbor has and he says it works great. I'll use a timer component to set this up so that it turns off automatically after a period as well.

EDIT: Also, thanks for making me think about automatic "shut off" conditions! Auto shut off is a great idea.

How set are you on the GE switch? Lutron Caseta seems like the perfect solution for this situation. The starter kit comes with wired dimmer switch and a separate remote that can be wall mounted. I use it for the recessed lights in my living room and it's been great so far. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QjPMxbYPD5823

If you're intending to draw heat back down, I'm assuming you've reversed direction on your fan? If you reverse direction it shouldn't really feel chilly below.

You can accomplish what you desire with any of the various forms of automation out there. Probably smart things (don't know since I'm not a user), definitely home assistant or node red. Just need to set an automation using either the ecobee as the trigger, or a temp sensor somewhere. You should be able to put the temp sensor somewhere out of visibility. You can control the fan with a smart switch, or something like Bond, which would enable you to use Google home or Amazon Echo to control the fan as part of the automation.

BOND | Smart Home Automation | Make Your Old Ceiling Fan or Fireplace Smart Through WiFi | Works with Alexa and Google Home | Remote Control with App | Compatible with iPhone or Android https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Fd7Bb17X33BJ

It's a bit pricey but can control up to 6 fans and you don't need to see it since it will talk to GH or echo over wifi. They go on sale from time to time also.

Check amazon for extension cords. They sell packs of 6/12 inch cords that you can plug into each outlet on a strip and then use to plug in any kind of accessory, like wall warts or smart plugs. It’s not elegant looking, but it’s the best way I’ve found to make use of every socket on a power strip, at least without getting a strip with outlets that rotate to give you more room.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538132865&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=extension+cord+for+power+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=51ySk%2B8E18L&ref=plSrch

flukes are the best, but you don't need that. a cheap one at lowes should work fine if you want something a bit better, i recommend this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_dp_2

I think something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4

would work for you. You can keep your existing switches even. This is assuming you have enough room behind the existing switch in the gang box. You'll need a hub like a smart things, but previous comments seem to show you are alright with that.

Personally, I love the idea of the old style edison bulbs and fixtures. This would allow you to do it with no visible changes at all.

When I was renting I used a lot of these with network cable that was also white so it didn't look terrible. If you nail them below the trim ling or at the bottom edge of the trim you won't have to putty/paint later. But powerline ethernet adapters are a pretty good option too.

Now moved into a new place and will be running Cat6 through the attic. If you have ceiling/floor access you could see if the landlord is interested in you wiring the place properly if you can make it look clean.

If the lag ONLY occurs when using wifi and never occurs while using ethernet (and you don't care about others' experiences), the best solution is to try to hard-wire as much as you can. Get tacks, run an ethernet cable (my walls are white so I use white) in a very tasteful way and make it look pretty.

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/

with that said, yeah, in the best of cases your wifi is set up so that you're never more than ~10 meters from a wireless access point and you have both 2.4 and 5GHz bands to choose from (wireless-b/g/n all work with 2.4GHz, wireless-a/n/ac work with 5GHz). Wifi will never be as good as hard wired though.

it's not exactly a "smart" switch, but i got this switch that lets you plug in your lat/lon, date, and time, and it automatically flips the lights on at dusk and on at dawn based on a preprogrammed schedule. this handles my front porch light and my driveway light. it can also be programmed to turn off at a specific time if you don't want the light on all night long, but i have LEDs in so i just keep them on all night. there's also a button that will let you control the lights off schedule as well.

very easy to install, requires zero intervention once programmed. i'm strongly considering getting a second to control my side porch light as well.

Mostly a gimmick. A fun gimmick, but a gimmick nonetheless. It really depends on what your budget is. Is approx $20/bulb worth it for a novelty? For me, it was in a few places, but I probably wouldn't do it again. The temperature thing is now a must after having the color and the ambient. I hope to never go back to a single temp bulb again. That's worth $15 premium of the ambient over the cheap white ones.

Get the dimmer switches. 100% worth the money. Then put these guards over your current switches.

Was wondering what would be my best option.

Currently looking at this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FGFLCXS/ref=pd_aw_sims_7?pi=SS115&simLd=1

Curious if this is my best option if trying to conserve energy and is this a good option for minimum heat.

Also took a glance at this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091HO0FY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0091HO0FY&linkCode=as2&tag=spacbuck-20


Opinions?

We have a Honeywell astro-timer switch for our front yard lights. Love it. I set it 2 years ago and it's never not worked. Best part about it is that it never needs adjustments throughout the year. It already knows based on the date when dusk/dawn is. All I had to do is set what time I want them to shut off.

The added bonus for us is that there's also an outdoor outlet on that leg. So we run all our holiday lights off it and everything comes on and shuts off together.

You could have 2 next to each other (they're standard single-gang size). But in your case, you could probably get one and tie the two switch legs together.

OK... so regarding the tank lights... have you considered a basic outlet timer? or if you want a cool techy one - there are app-controlled outlet plugs nowadays:

https://www.amazon.com/WiFi-Smart-Plug-Outlets-Function/dp/B07Q1L6311/

https://www.amazon.com/Assistant-Required-Enabled-Control-Gosund/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/

Many other options on Amazon, and bundles of more than 1 plug if you are interested - you do need to set them up w/ 2.4 Ghz wifi - App: Smart Life App iOS/Android

then you can set up a time schedule from the app for the outlet to be on or off at certain times, or control it on or off directly from the app.

I have these currently running my tank lights automatically, just set it and forget it :) - you have to leave the light switch itself ON, but plug the cable into the Smart Outlet Plug - the outlet plug then either allows or blocks power going to the tank lights, effectively controlling it to be on or off.

I actually just bought one of these multimeters that arrived today and I'm loving it, so much. It's only $30 and works amazingly well. It's full-featured and includes a helpful little socket with holes that you can put an electronic component (i.e a resistor) into so you don't have to wrestle with the test leads. I'd highly recommend it.

You laugh but I was super excited to get my cheap Chinese multimeter in the mail today. I will deffo use it for completing my lab work tonight.

Do this instead. Use an adapter (not converter) and one of these expanders: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UE7SC8/

I’ve been traveling the world for 9 months (24 countries and counting) using this and it works like a charm. Everything you plug into it needs to have its own converter (most modern electronics chargers like cell phones, etc, and any brick plug with a “100-240v” on it should be fine.)

Never plug a hair iron or similar heat-producing device into this setup. Those always need a converter.

Also recommend a usb charging hub like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ With the 3-prong expander and this you can charge multiple USB devices and have room to plug in a non-usb charger. This can handle 100-240v.

I bought a house with motorized blinds operated by a remote control. I purchased a Bond smart home device to control my ceiling fans. It basically replaced my remote.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_mBPBCbST25VJ5

It works perfectly with Google Home. The next thing they're adding is motorized blind control. It's a solid device that's as easy to set up and use as any of my smart lights and I can't wait to control my blinds with it.

One problem I had with smart outlets is that one one of the plugs is controlled by the switch, the other is just on 100% of the time.

In my use case, paranoia over leaving the hair curler plugged in, that down fall was two much. Sure I could see the outlet was off but I had no idea if the device was plugged into the right outlet.

My solution was this little guy
Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBzqybV7TXXRH

Fits behind the standard outlet and turns the entire thing into a switch.

I'm also thinking this might be a good thing to add to a couple more outlets for Christmas lights

1. I custom ordered blinds from Home Depot because I have floor to ceiling windows. I ended up not being happy with them. I ordered from a local window place and they made me custom ones that were a lot nicer, cheaper, and included installation. The cheaper sounding option isn't always.
   
   
2. I made the following electronic wiring upgrades myself (really easy to do):
   
   USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
   
   Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BJULYS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
   
   Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
   
   Edit: formatting

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

Great, thanks!

Do you think the one you sent would work better or this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UE7SC8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2

(quick note that the power cord is 2 prong)

Best way I can think of would be to get a scene controller like this or a remote like this or this. Just note that you'll need to use another hub to control them, whether it is Home Assistant with a uzb stick, smartthings, wink, or something else. Other than that, you could stick a cheap tablet on the wall and just have the LIFX app running constantly.

EDIT: I see that is sounds like you haven't actually purchased the LIFX bulbs yet. If that's true you may just want to go with Philips Hue and add a Hue Tap instead. Kinda ugly but it's a much easier setup. Hue is a lot cheaper than LIFX anyway if you want more than 1 bulb

Are you in the USA? if so I've had pretty good luck with these cheap timers off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LYHED0/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1499851115&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=timers+for+electrical+outlets&dpPl=1&dpID=410-DNaFBZL&ref=plSrch

The caveat is that some of them start making a faint clicking/buzzing noise after a while so if you're keeping it in your bedroom i wouldn't recommend it. Also they don't have a ground.

you could airways 'borrow' one, and program something like this (I have 4 of those fans, and all can be controlled with one Bond unit and app). or search for "universal rf ceiling fan remote" on eBay or elsewhere. Good luck!

Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958038&sr=1-3&keywords=lutron+caseta

This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-2&keywords=lutron+caseta

You can also purchase them with remotes for $60

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-1&keywords=lutron+caseta

and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.

Lutron caseta work great. worth the money

You can use the Lutron Caseta for 3 way switches or more. Install the full Lutron Caseta switch in one box, and use remotes for the other boxes. You can put another switch anywhere, even if there isn't wiring there.

Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BazDyb4YRKZ8B

Remote with wall bracket
Lutron PJ2-WALL-WH-L01 Pico Remote Control with Wall Mounting Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JR202JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ObzDybQ8C594T

You need the hub as well

Hub, 1 switch, and 1 remote
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Dimmer Kit with Smart Bridge for Amazon Alexa and Selected Models, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kdzDybXVZ4ZGM

They sell the wall brackets seperate as well
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nfzDybQX74B01

Basically you can get a 2way solution for $100, and add a 3rd switch for $20

Apparently this "Needs to be in the megathread." It's about garage door openers.

I don't get it: Virtually every option I've seen so far requires me to hard-wire a device into my garage door opener, which I'm sure I could do but would much rather not have to spend a whole afternoon on.

Meanwhile, I can buy a $15, battery-powered button that can be easily programmed to open and close my garage door at any convenience store, but you're telling me that no one has built that same simple functionality into a $10 smart plug that I can stick in my garage and program the same way? And maybe pair with a separate door sensor to tell if the garage is open or closed?

I realize this wouldn't be quite as good or reliable as the hard-wiring route but it seems like there are millions of people with older garage door openers who would snap up a $50 device that was as easy to configure as the thing they have in their car. Someone take that idea and make a bajillion dollars on Kickstarter, please.

I am told MyQ does this, but it's my understanding that MyQ is $80 and charges a monthly fee for some ridiculous reason. It is therefore disqualified and needs a competitor who charges a reasonable price for this very simple thing.

> See, I didn't even know that was a thing. Glad I opened this thread already. So much to research.
>
> Thanks.

No prob man, and they really do work amazingly. Here's an amazon link for the z-wave plus outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07361JZ2H/

Here's the link for the switches and add-on switches. They come in either paddle or toggle style, and in a couple colors. You can also get switches that support dimming if that's your thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/

If it's a 3-way, the functionality of the add-on will match that of the other switch. So if it's a dimmer on the main side, the add-on has that as well.

Have you thought about a rebuildable? A decent Kayfun clone shouldn't be much more than $30, and enough 28ga wire to last months is about $6 on Amazon, and a bag of cotton could probably last a year for a couple more bucks. If the flavor gets stale, it takes about three minutes to change out the cotton wick, assuming you have a way to empty the tank (blunt tip needles are great for this) and some decent scissors to trim the wick. I find the flavor noticeably better than my Aerotank Mega, and the upkeep costs are so much better.

Agreed, labeling them is the best way to do it, even when they're plugged in. For my wall warts, I have them attached to a power strip with these 1ft extension cords so I can actually fit more than one in a strip. All of my electronics I don't use very often (old video game systems, VCRs, old towers, etc) get plugged into one of these power strips so they don't leach power when off. Each switch has a label for the device plugged into it and each cord plugged into it is also labeled. I have all the extenders labeled as well. This way no matter where I am in the power chain, I know what's plugged into what. The only thing that isn't labeled is the powerstrips ...yet.

I had a similar idea when I started my first bucket. It was a single plant bucket with a 4 way split of LED lights much like the ones you're thinking about. The main problem with the light set up was that it created way too much heat and heat stressed the plant so I switched to a UFO LED within a week.

My bucket had good airflow and currently maintains ~74 lights on with a UFO but with the 4 LED bulbs it was ~92 lights on. I'm not saying you can't do it but it would require a much better way to dissipate heat compared to a traditional setup
.
I grew 1 plant under 2 LED and 2 CFL (couldn't handle the 4 LED's heat) and temps were ~80 but the results weren't as good compared to my UFO grow which had less actual draw than the 4 bulbs.

Personally I still recommend going with a UFO LED, it might be a little more expensive but they are becoming much more affordable and if you get a product from china it will save you a lot. Aliexpress has some cheap lights, this light is 150W for 46USD.

However if you do decide to go with a 4 bulb adapter, I advise using this to avoid overloading 1 socket. Plus it has 2 on/off switches so you can control your bulbs seperately

Definitely an exhaust fan is installed (but no clue if working or not). Looks like it has a plug, so I would get an extension cord and plug it into an outlet, see if it works (most likely it will). If it does, then get one of those light bulb adapters that have an electrical outlet, plug the fan into it and add a light bulb.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

Edit: please update us with the results.

I use the Bond Fan controller. It’s not HomeKit compatible yet but the company has said its coming soon. It works well with Alexa to control speed and lights. You would need to have remote control modules in each fan but they are reasonably priced ~$20 per fan.

https://www.amazon.com/BOND-Ceiling-Instantly-Amazon-Compatible/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1516833372&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=bond+home&psc=1

Extensions are easier to make, as you said 1 to 1, no hassle. Custom cables for modular PSU requires pin-out diagrams and a tester to insure that the cables are correct and won't "blow your rig." You may also run into double wires, which require a little more work to make them look good and function correctly.

In the end extensions are cheaper, less time consuming, and easier to install for most people. Custom cables are a lot more time consuming and require more tools to ensure that everything is kosher.

Lutro0's double wire guide.

I just replaced the switches in a four gang box with these which are being controlled by a Smartthings hub.

The GE Z-wave switches are the only toggle type switches I could find. They can be purchased as regular switches or dimmers and can do three or four way switching.

They fit in my box, cramped but, it worked.

Cloud based control from your phone or Alexa. Switch still works like a regular switch, it just stays in the middle all the time.

Nice thing is you can buy others and add them as you want.

Those are all very good points. You may have made a convert of me lol.

I was hoping to avoid most of the wiring by using something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zRvTub1RG85R3

Those kits are OK, but I might suggest getting yourself some boards like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CGV6TZG

And a basic component kit such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EROKLBC

With those you can practice all you want and come up with your own configurations. Start with getting an LED to light up and go from there.

For a cheap multimeter I like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000JQ4O2U

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ/

Those are perfect keeping your power strip from being clogged up with wall warts and things like smart power outlets. They really come in handy, I'm already on my second 10 pack of them.

I’ve had good luck with just daylight led bulbs. Just amazon the daylight led t8 bulbs. You can also hook up a timer switch to mock daylight hours. Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2

I keep them 6-24 inches from the plants with a small fan to help them dry out between watering

I’ve needed the same thing since I work from home and always thought one of those ‘ON AIR’ lights like this would be so cool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0132AX0AQ/

You could mount it on the wall above the door and find a way to run the cable down the doorframe with some adhesive cable ties to hide the cord. Plug it in if you have an outlet near the door, otherwise run it under the door and power it in your office, then use a cheap Alexa-enabled smart plug to toggle it on/off with voice.

I recommend these smart plugs as I use them in my office: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/

These are 3 individual switches, therefore, you can just replace them with Homekit smart switches. You may need to get a bigger box to accommodate these Homekit smart switches.

I have listed some of the Homekit smart switches below and a link to the Apple website that has a list of all the Homekit switches that are available. Also, the Homekit subreddit is here: https://reddit.com/r/HomeKit/ if you have more Homekit questions.


https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Dimmer-Switch-Required-HomeKit/dp/B0743Q7VCL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540877906&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=idevices+dimmer+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_3031359011

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540877972&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=lutron+caseta+switch&psc=1

https://www.apple.com/ios/home/accessories/

If your 2.4GHz spectrum is crowded, then moving to the 5GHz spectrum could really help. Remember, though, that both the router and the computer have to support 5GHz to talk there. You might need to buy a new wireless card for it.

If you want to be sure you'll never have to deal with wireless interference again, though, you have to ditch the wireless. You can buy network cable in all kinds of lengths for pretty cheap, and just tack it to your baseboards.

I think the solution you're looking for lies in the switch not the light. I just recently switched my front outdoor lights to a timer switch that has 7 days of programming available. You enter where you live and adjusts for when the sun rises and sets. You can also program a particular time as well for it to shut off or turn on. So far it works great and was a fairly easy install.

Here's a Link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's the "Honeywell Econoswitch RPLS740B 7-Day Solar Time Table Programmable Switch for Lights and Motors"

I have a Hunter fan as well. I bought a Bond device which essentially replicates the RF controller Hunter fans use. Hooked it up to my GHome and it works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr

Organic Cotton Balls I bought a bag mid April. I change wicks daily and I've still got a half a bag.

100ft Roll of 28g Kanthal for $6 This will last you quite a while. I highly recommend twisted 28g micro coils for great flavor and a bit of clouds.

Get a multimeter. If you buy from the following link, you support an excellent Youtube channel as well:

http://astore.amazon.com/afromods-20/detail/B000JQ4O2U/190-8350356-1062150

I'd buy a fluke if I could justify it... but i can't so i bought this https://www.amazon.com/Mastech-MS8268-MS8261-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ . Its a good balance of good, cheap, and tough.

You might also want to look at the fluke 12E. Its made for the chinese market but makes it way over here. here is a video from AvE talking about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJm9iCha-jM

This will do exactly what you want.

LUTRON P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Starter Kit: 1 Smart Bridge, 1 In-Wall Smart Dimmer with Wallplate and 1 Pico Remote, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s-dvzb6XKJW7B

Amazon is your friend.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JVXVKB0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1422324544&sr=8-2

100' 28g Kanthal $6 (I use 26g on my subtank, but 28 works too. This is just the first one that showed up)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000TCD51A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1422324636

More Japanese cotton than you will know what to do with $8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1422324748

Angle cutters, not needed but it makes getting a clean cut very easy $5

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004800I6Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?qid=1422324973

Precision screw driver set, also not needed but handy for both the fact that they are in fact screw drivers and that you can use the slotted ones for wrap coils with a consistent and known inner diameter. $8 (you can get this for a lot less at Walmart, Lowes, harbor freight... Etc)

So a little over $25 shipped and you will not need kanthal or cotton for a very long time.

Id say maybe make sure one of the pants is a nice normal looking one that you can pair with the shirt for a nice date night, so many places you would want to do that.


I'd prefer an extra shirt and underwear or two just so I don't have to deal with the washing, weight is low enough that it was worth it for me, space has never been a concern, I personally travel with 5 tshirt and undies, but many people travel with just 2 pairs.


Do you really need the vest when you have the hoodie and down jacket and rain shell?


Compact alternative for power strip: a 3 way power splitter, combine with a 1ft extension cord for a more compact power strip that can also deal with bulky wall warts better.

Not sure why you were down voted.

Anywho, these are the ones I installed around my house:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easy to install, too. You don't really have to have an electrician do it although you can if you want to be safe. You can always watch a few videos on youtube on how to install these as long as you follow simple rules like "pretend the wire is always hot" (kind of like pretending the gun is always loaded, even when it's not).

Basically, shut power off at the breaker for the plug you're working on, take off faceplate, pull wiring out, take note of cables, colors, etc and connect them to new plug. My wires were white, black, and no-color (copper, which was ground/neutral).

I'm on my phone so I'll try to come back with a link but I've seen these outlet timers you could use? Basically plug it between your slow cooker and the wall outlet and it keeps power from hitting your cooker until whatever time you set. Originally made to turn lamps on at night but would work. That way you could get whatever slow cooker you liked, set it, then it wouldn't come on until you wanted it to.

Edit: something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LYHED0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396462397&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

Get a smart plug and a lamp.

First hit on Amazon.

Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Required, ETL and FCC Listed Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket by Gosund

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0t0-BbZT9GKJS

I don't have anything concrete to back this up... but I'm pretty sure here in Canada there is no problems with putting lighting & electrical sockets on the same circuit.

How would that differ from a scenario where somebody simply plugs a floor/table lamp into an electrical socket?

Additional, things like this: http://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70 Would certainly not be kosher at all.

I had a similar tangle underneath my work area. you could try something like these:
organizer / tamer to put under the desk,
a box for your surge protector, and
short extenders for power cables to help them all fit in your surge protector

For my apartment, I you utilize two solutions to almost solve this problem. Neither one is perfect but for controlling rooms with only hue bulbs I use the hue dimmer switch. Those work nicely because the plate they come with is about the right size to replace a regular switch, but they only control Hue bulbs. For other rooms that have other lighting solutions, I have attached some Aeon Minimotes to the wall. In those rooms, I don't have light switches that need to be in any position, but you could always rewire them to bypass the switches and build some custom mounting solutions for the,

Not to state the obvious but this pretty much the main selling point of smart switches instead of smart bulbs.

If you’re renting or otherwise can’t modify the wiring for some reason, some physical “childproof” cover should work - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XP9M2FT/

This sounds like the BS I went through with my grandmother. She was entirely focused on photoelectric eyes for dusk-and-dawn and didn't respond to the idea of motion sensing or timers. The result was a lot of halogen lights that would stay on for 12 hours at a time and burned out fairly quickly and attempts at CFLs that burned out even quicker due to the photoelectric eye.

LEDs are likely to run cool enough that they won't care about an enclosure... mine don't. I'd also recommend a 7 day timer like this solar one, that adjusts to date-based dusk/dawn cycles. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2

You could look into products utilizing Z-Wave. There's a few modules that can be placed into a box behind switches or above light fixtures, like potentially this one. But you'd still need a Z-Wave controller, something like the SmartThings Hub, perhaps.

EDIT: Here's another Z-Wave wire-in switch. There are even motion sensors like this one and other things that speak Z-Wave.

Yep! It’s pretty cool. Turns off in the morning. Here’s the link:

Honeywell Home RPLS740B1008 Econoswitch 7-Day Programmable Light Switch Timer White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qqMQCbZZPGVZS

alternately, if you have many light bulbs on your porch, this dusk to dawn switch: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2

you could also get an internet-connected smart switch if you plan on building out more of a smart home, but this is great as a standalone.

it's very nice to get home at night with the porch lights already on, and not have to keep adjusting a mechanical timer as the days get longer or shorter.

These zwave minimotes are pretty nice. They work well with SmartThings. Also like them because they're rechargeable.

I also use a bunch of hacked dash buttons.

I've done this same thing and love it.

A couple of small issues:

1. There is a slight delay before the light comes on. In truth, the light probably comes on quicker than it would if I reached for the light switch. But since I'm opening the door expecting the light to be on, the delay is noticeable.
   
   
2. I found myself reflexively turning the light off when leaving the closet. I bought some of these switch covers and that has solved that problem.
   
   Even with those issues, I just love this feature.

Personal favorite cheap dmm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQ4O2U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_scIuyb89GBR67

A bigger breadboard might be nice as well

Lights with the 24/7 light cycle will grow a good amount of algae on their default settings. The only one I would consider (if I got another one) would be the Finnex 24/7 CC model because it's much more customizable. But if you still want a cheap one, then get the cheap Vivagrow 24/7 one.

On my 20g long, I use this NICREW light and it has grown all of my low and medium light plants great:

https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01ID3OK3S/

The only caution I have is it is at the very edge of medium-high (tested mine at 50 PAR but you said you want that) light fixture on a 20g long, so you may need to get a cheap inline dimmer dial to go with it just in case:

https://www.amazon.com/Strip-Light-Dial-Dimmer-Black/dp/B00RBXPDQU/

Very cheap timer that works with any fixture:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHED0/

More expensive timer with gradual on/off for those skittish fish (I buy the used ones). Requires standard DC connectors though, so it won't work with stuff like Finnex or older Beamswork models:

https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Single-Timer-Aquarium/dp/B00FDV1AFA

It looks like [these are 2.1 each] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/) if that helps any.

EDIT 1: On further reading, that is incorrect. My apologies.
EDIT 2: [These are rated at 4.0 (2.0 each)] (http://www.amazon.com/ENERLITES-Charger-Receptacle-Tamper-Safety/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=pd_cp_hi_2) which seems just about your speed.^1

1: And mine, they're going in my wish list.

This system is great.

We have a Logitech Harmony hub based remote and I've used Caseta switches to control the living room lighting, ceiling fans, and the fireplace.

We recently installed these GE switches and have so far liked them a lot. They don't look dramatically different from traditional switches, and you can then use whatever bulb you need in the actual outlet.

Just as a note, we did have issues with the newer SmartThings app automating the lights coming on at night and going off in the morning, but it seemed to be an issue with the app- we used the classic app and it's worked perfectly ever since.

Thank you so much for the response

1. I want the lights to come on in the morning to help me wake up (and stay up) on time.
   
2. The room is in the basement, it's my bedroom, and the lights are fluorescent tube light bulbs.
   
3. One of the switches controls the ceiling lights and these are the main light source in my room. The other switch controls a tiny light in the closet and it barely serves a purpose. I've never turned it on deliberately. I wouldn't realize if the switch disappeared and I turned the switch box from a double into a single. I found a switch on amazon that I was interested in, and I think this would fit (link below). I think the switch box is standard size for a single switch box.
   
   ​
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=V4RK6EJQLE81&keywords=programmable+light+switch&qid=1557905889&s=gateway&sprefix=programma%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
   
   ​
   
   I would prefer that both lights don't come on together. I also don't care for how the switch looks at all, I'm only concerned with function.

Personally I am going to try and avoid parts for his build because of not knowing exactly what he has.

You could get him zip ties, velcro strips, tool kit (just search computer tool kit on amazon), usb drive, DAC/AMP, nice router, custom mouse pad, nice pair of head phones, power supply tester, Electricity Usage Monitor, Electric Duster, Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol),... I could keep on going but I think you get the idea. Hopefully when you post your build I'll come back to edit my comment.

well, I just ordered this, should make my life much easier. Thank you China!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

Not exactly what you are looking for, but I have this and works great. Always when dark and I use LED bulbs so the electricity wont cost too much.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AP92N2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/

That's what I use, personally. It makes it fairly easy to test a supply since it will turn red and start beeping furiously if you are not getting enough juice. I don't test a ton of power supplies, so I can't speak to bulk usage/lifespan, but it has been great for my needs.

Probably not the fix for your situation, but I have way too many wallwarts and these are great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

For the sake of isolating variables, see if you still have the same issues. If you do, an iso brick isn't going to fix it either.

I can recommend this $25 Mastech for hobby usage. I picked one up five years ago and it's still going great.

I think you can do it using mysensors. The store lists a ACS712ELC 30A Current Sensor which you can wire in series to your load. One idea would be to mimic a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V8K3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453046080&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=smart+receptacle+cord&dpPl=1&dpID=31v4qTEZyWL&ref=plSrch or Aeon Labs DSC06106-ZWUS - Z-Wave Smart Energy Switch. You can do this by cutting an extension cable with one side going to the wall receptacle and the other to your load and all the electronics i n the middle. Need an arduino pro mini, radio, 110-5v, the current sensor, and a box to make it look nice.

For that, you're going to want something like this - bonus points for plugging in Christmas lights that already blink!

...Something tells me we went off topic.

DC wallwarts have not been a problem for me since I found out about these. Someone here recommended them. Whoever you are, thank you! I'm just about ready to buy my second ten-pack.

I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4

This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R

This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ

First I just had lamps on something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50007-24-Hour-Digital-Settings/dp/B005WQIDHY/ you probably can find something like this much cheaper.

I ended up installing a switch like this: http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2/

Yup, I think he used an old Christmas tree timer. From a search on amazon, it looks like anything like this would work just fine: http://www.amazon.com/Woods-50006-Indoor-24-Hour-Mechanical/dp/B006LYHED0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405527429&sr=8-1&keywords=outlet+timer

My wife burnt our counter top in our bathroom. I put in an outlet with this.

I have a controller let me know if it is consuming energy. If it consumes energy for greater than 30 minutes, I turn the outlet off.

Well the wire just need to be plugged into both end, how it get there does not matter to the wire but most people like to hide long wires.

The staple cannot go through the wire of course. I would use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

From what I can tell, you would need to add both a fan RF Control Kit and some thing like Bond Ceiling Fan Controller, which is Alexa compatible.

The RF Control kit turns your old dumb fan into a fan controllable by a remote.

The Bond clones the RF signal from the remote and will work with Alexa so you can control it with voice.

LOL nice.

A bag of these would probably come in handy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ

Nice! FYI it’s $84 normally on amazon. smile.amazon.com

You can get tons of rebuilding stuff on Amazon for cheap. I definitely recommend Japanese cotton for your wick.

Japanese cotton wick

Kanthal

It may cover the WeMo plug, but I doubt it'll have sufficient depth for the WeMo and the plug that plugged into the WeMo. For an outdoor installation, I'd recommend a z-wave solution like GE outdoor z-wave outlets. Off course, it does mean that you'll need a z-wave hub ...

You might try a normal switch connected to an
Aeon Labs Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0gD-zbVX154GH

Turns your dumb switch smart :)

There's also a dimmer module:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PiD-zbWY6WYJM

So, to be fair, this is in a closet and fastened to a high shelf just below the equipment. It' really never in danger of accidental actuation, but it's a good thing to consider. Otherwise, these are good for accidental protection and if I wanted to make real project out of it I could probably hook up a microcontroller to turn on a warning light locally plus somewhere else in the house which was obvious. But, lucklily, my home crew is the reliable sort.

You can get them at any Home Depot or Lowe's. This is what they look like). They are very easy to install, just make sure you've cut power to the outlet by turning off the respective breaker/fuse.

These might be a better solution for whatever UPS you get. It might not look tidy but definitely fixes those wall wart issues

The First thing you should do when having these types of issues, is reduce your hardware down to just the core parts needed to boot the system.

1. Remove any unnecessary add-in cards, take out all memory, except one stick.
   
   
2. All you should have in the system is, Power Supply, Motherboard, 1 stick of Ram, CPU+cooler, and Hard drive.
   
   
3. If the Problem still occurs try a different stick of Ram.
   
   
4. If the problem still persists, try re-seating your CPU.
   
   
5. If the problem still persists, replace your power supply.
   
   
6. If you replace the PSU, and you still have the issue, then its your motherboard.
   
   Pro-Tip* It really sounds like it's your PSU, but if you want to truly rule it out, you have to use process of elimination, unless you have a power supply tester, which has saved me many headaches.

You're interested in a smart switch that's aware of sunset, right? You want a switch to go on at or some time after sunset, and then go out after an interval or at a set time?

Check out this and this

They have internal batteries that keep the clock going during power outages.

If you want something you will hold onto for more than a couple months I would go with the following:

Kayfun 3.1

Choose one that works with 18650s

Intellicharge

28 Gauge Kenthal

These Sony 18650s
aren't the real deal, but it's so hard to come by legit ones without seeing them in person.

Also you may want to pick up some organic cotton balls at a local shop (Walgreens, Walmart, Target, etc.).

Depending on the mod you choose, this should be under $100. GG

Edit: If you are entirely new to coil building and how batteries work, I would suggest educating yourself first. There are plenty of resources on the subject.

"Normal" depends on what outlet you buy. My outlets put out 4.0a total. Phones usually take 1.0a. Tablets usually take 2.1a.

TOPGREENER TU2154 4.0 Amp Smart High Speed USB Wall Charger Outlet, 15A TR Receptacle Free Screwless Wall Plate, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7GiSybK0SDJPM

You could use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407430422&sr=8-2&keywords=light+socket+plug+adapter

That way you can run an extension cord into your shed for light without sacrificing the porch light. It would obviously only work if the porch light is switched on, but it's better than not having a porch light at all. I wouldn't run more than a few lamps off that power source though.
Edit: how many more times do you think I could say porch light?

My brother has a vertdesk (just a different electric sit/stand desk) and he as a tripe monitor mount and got some power extension cables. Should be able to get you up and down without having things come unplugged, and "float" your monitors.

Also, how do you like the EvoDesk? Any good?

I went with these fans and im very happy ...no wire nuts or electrical tape required, and there about the same price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OXDAWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also if you are looking for a good light set up use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091HO0FY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is my build http://imgur.com/a/0gYxr

It's the little things that make the journey that much better. :) (You could always get an outlet timer to turn it on automatically, btw.)

You'll just need one bridge and it works out to cost about $40 if you buy it with the dimmer and pico bundle (although Amazon is offering me a 30% off coupon at the moment, which would make it under $10 - link in case other people see the coupon too).

The dimmers don't connect on wifi, so they need a Lutron bridge. From there it is probably the best integrated product in my home. Everyone appears to integrate with Lutron.

> Light bulb socket adapter: One outlet version -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCVTFC[1] , two outlet version -- http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70[2] . Best not to try to make one of these yourself, can be dangerous if something gets wired backwards.


I get these here in the local electrical market. But the light bulb holders are a little higher, I was thinking if I could get a customized socket somewhere near my bed. Where I can plug in my charger.

> Fan speed regulator: Depends on the fan, ceiling fans are controlled different than box/stand fans. Usually it's a burnt resistor or such. Probably best to just replace the regulator assembly, most of the time they're not repairable anyway.


I thought of posting an image of how it looks like from the outside.
Here is an image of it. I think I can even open it, take a pic and let you know, I thought I would first post the pic and ask for feedback. Is the regulator speed depended on the type of ceiling fan? The fan that I am using 1200 MM Sweep, 380 RPM, 80 Watts power consumption.

> Broken cupboard door:

Here is how it looks like. This is the broken door side. And this is how it looks on the cupboard. This image is from another cupboard where both the hinges are intact. So I think it is not really broken but the screws and nut seems to be come off? I went to a hardware store and showed them this pics, they bluntly said that only screws and nuts are not available, you need to purchase the complete set. I don't even know if I am using the technical terms like screws, nuts, hinges right. Forgive me if they are called something else.


> Toilet lid


The one that I have seems to be a little different. Here is what it looks like. The lid wont just fit easily on those plastic connectors given on the top of the hole.

Above all I really want to say a big thank you for taking out time and replying to me. It really helps and can go a long way if I get started with DIY stuffs.

*Sorry if any of the links turned dead. Imgur is disabled in my office, and I used my mobile's 2G network to upload to imgur and manually added the links here on the browser.

This! So much this. Everything goes on sale Dec 26th for around half to 80% off...and it's only the second day of Christmas!

If you have any outside lights, there is a cheap adapter to turn those into outlets for additional lights as well. Very useful if you don't have a regular outside outlet.

SmartThings and Alex work very well together. Not to mention SmartThings automation is second to none as far as I have experienced with other hubs. This prevents you from having all those apps as you mentioned. All you have to do is add zwave or zigbee devices to your hub and you can control them from one place.
In your case, especially with the outside lights, I would just install one of these Aeontec microswitches. They come in dimmers too. You can hide them in the walls and your switches still work just as they did before, with the exception that you can now control them wirelessly. Just be sure to watch your draw. A lot of outdoor flood lights might be too much wattage for them. I installed a Lutron Caseta switch and hub for my father and quickly brushed up against the 650 Watt limit of those switches with all his outdoor flood lights. I'll be honest I don't know the limit of these switches and I can't find it on Aeontec's website, but you should be fine bellow 700 watts per switch.
With SmartThings you can set up timers for devices, link them to motion detectors, and even check on their power consumption if you have the right kind of switch.

Awesome thanks! I actually saw a perfect one in the recommended items section: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XAD316KK676BG96HAEJ5

Yours looked good too but I'd be concerned at how loose the swiveling outlets are - the air freshener is an oil heater so I wouldn't want it to swivel sideways at some point.

Anyway I found what I was looking for so thanks so much!

Thank you for pointing those string lights out. Not only are they somewhat more cost efficient (at the current price), that product page links to this GE Z-Wave outdoor plug. It says it works with Harmony hub, which I have but I'm still not sure if:

• The hub is inside, what will I have to do so it still sends the signal?
  
• What actions can the Z-Wave plug do? If it's just on/off, is that worth it?

I am Helen Keller when it comes to tools and building things, but making this was fairly easy. The hardest part was taking the time to tape everything.

I started off with planting inside the bucket in mind, but decided on using separate pots.

I have a slight phobia when it comes to electricity. Instead of wiring my own sockets, these are the lights I am using:

LimoStudio High Quality 4 Socket Photo Bulb Adapter

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091HO0FY/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_4vRTtb1MZDBBJ

My intake fan is on the bottom, and my exhaust fan is on the top side on the opposite end.

Yea if its a brick house you need basement or attic access to be minimally invasive. If the landlord is cool and does not care... you could just drill in through the side of the house right next to what ever room you were running the wire into.

If you do the eyehole thing on the door. Just be sure to run the wires so they will not get pinched :)

These will help with that

The top GPU is probably toast, and some component that we can't see probably fried. Whether or not it was due to the PSU, or just the GPU going out, I don't know.

I'd get a PSU tester (Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ ) to see if the PSU is still good before putting it into any rig again.

You can also check out BOND. It does IR and RF. There's no HA integration yet, but I'm writing a component now. I've reverse engineered their API: https://github.com/danmandle/bond and will be publishing the HA component in a few weeks.

I would attach the cable to the shelves/wall using these to make sure it is straight and tidy, then tape or otherwise attach the leftover cable to the bottom of the bottom shelves. It would really neaten it up a lot.

• Wifi
  
• Powerline adapters (but you'll still run ethernet to the adapters themselves)
  
  Either solution will introduce latency. So if you're playing competitive fps games, it'll negatively affect your game.
  
  Why not use something like this to make the wire run look neater?

I purchased a Mastech Multimeter about 6 years ago for about 25 dollars, and it's working just fine for me. Yes, it doesn't have the name as a Fluke, but it works just fine for everyday purposes. Unless you really need the accuracy, a Mastech meter will work fine, especially as a student. This is the model I purchased. 25 dollars, and has everything you will need.

Micro zwave switch in the gang box for the switch or at the light.

Switch interrupts the "hot" wire to the light.

Put the HA controller on a schedule to be off from bedtime til morning.

Switch will work normally at all other times.

Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2H-Nzb7KB7F84

These are on sale today for $7 - does this component work with any wifi outlet or only the amazon one?

Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Required, ETL and FCC Listed Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket by Gosund https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/

I know in my case for my most recent house, I used a Circuit Breaker Finder. Have a helper plug it into an outlet, scan the panel til you find what you think it is. Flip the breaker, the power light at on the unit plugged in goes off to confirm, write it down, move on. That, with a light socket plug adatper got the majority of circuits out of the way. I was lucky that I had the finder at work, and can see how spending $40 can be a bit much for what most people see as a one time task.

For previous houses, I've had a few different methods. If I'm doing the entire house, I'd grab as many electric things as I could find and plug them in all over. Lamps, plug testers, radios, basically anything that would give me indication that the power was on or not. Then yes, sweep.

If I'm looking for a single breaker, I would just plug in a set of speakers, play some music and flip breakers until the music stops.

If you have a pin remover (makeshift or actual) and the pinouts its a pretty simple process. Just be sure to triple check your work before plugging it into actual hardware. PSU testers (like the TT Dr power ii) are handy for that.

Light bulb socket adapter: One outlet version -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCVTFC, two outlet version -- http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70. Best not to try to make one of these yourself, can be dangerous if something gets wired backwards.

Fan speed regulator: Depends on the fan, ceiling fans are controlled different than box/stand fans. Usually it's a burnt resistor or such. Probably best to just replace the regulator assembly, most of the time they're not repairable anyway.

Broken cupboard door: Get a box of wooden matches; break the heads off 3-4 of them, however many will fit into the screw hole. Dip them into wood glue, then shove them into the hole as far as they will go. Once the glue dries, cut them off flush with the wood surface, then screw the hinge back into the newly filled-in wood. If you lost the screws, take one out of another hinge and your local hardware store should have something that matches up. Can also try getting a screw a couple sizes up instead of the matchstick trick. Screws are numbered for "thickness" and then measured for length. Quick chart of the American system is here -- http://s.hswstatic.com/gif/screws-1.jpg.

Toilet lid - usually these just sit on top of the tank? If you're talking about the seat, there are usually 2 screws under the hinge tabs, look for a cover you can flip up. Might have to use pliers underneath to hold the nut while tightening the screw above.

For the vast majority of things, if you don't want to post on /r/diy (that's what it's here for!) just search Google for "cabinet door hinge fell off", or "toilet seat loose," etc, there's plenty of information out there (even step by step YouTube videos!)

Source: Way too much of my childhood spent watching This Old House and reading this thing.

If you're just trying to maximize outlet space, something like this cube tap would be light, since there's no cord.

(2 prong version)

hard plastic ones are generally lighter than the rubber ones, you can generally find these at hardware stores, though the shapes vary.

(Edit: as a note,, sometimes with the horizontal shape, the plugs are too close together to fit multiple plugs, cube version can sometimes help that).

They still function like regular light switches. You can control them manually via the wall or remotely.

Note that all ZWave switches that I've seen basically amount to push buttons instead of the typical rocker that most homes use. That is to say, they have a physical switch with both and on and an off, but the switch doesn't physically move to indicate whether it's on or off. They usually have an led built into them that shows this.

If you want to keep your existing switches, check out something like Aeotec's micro-switches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You install these behind your existing wall switches. Once you do that, your existing switches continue to work the same as before, and you can control them remotely.

Yes. Here’s more info: Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch Starter Kit, P-BDG-PKG1W, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_doqnDbD8YH17Y

I have a few of these installed and they work great! Link

I like bringing a power splitter just to charge my phone, in case all the outlets are full. Though it's not as bad as 5 years ago.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/

Don't wear a lot of accessories. You have to remove them all during security. Also bring comfortable shoes. Sometimes my feet swell due to the high altitude and it's such cramped seating that it's hard to stretch.

And if you're on a smaller two engine plane you may experience more turbulence (shaking and tiny sudden drops).

It also gets pretty cold in flight, regardless if where you're going. I like to bring a zip up hoodie because it's easier to put on than a sweater. Also the air is very dry. They have lotion in the tiny bathrooms, but I prefer to bring my own. I'll even put vaseline in my nose because it's so dry.

If you're bringing shampoo bottles or other liquids, store the bottles in a ziploc bag. The high altitude may cause them to burst the lid and leak everywhere. Before storing, I like to squeeze out all the air in the bottles and then cap them so there's less air to expand. It doesn't always work though because some lids aren't as air tight as they should be.

If you think you will use the bathroom a lot or don't mind getting up with other people have to use it, get the aisle seat. If you think you will be fine or don't like to be bothered to move, get the window seat. The seats are so damn cramped, it's unavoidable waking someone when you have to use the bathroom, especially since all the chairs are leaned back. If you're taller than 5'8", try to sit at the emergency exits, they usually have more leg room.

Under my couches I used the little nail-in coax cable clips. Not these ones specifically, but ones like that.

The wooden frame of the couch is hidden from view, and a couple of small nails in the wood won't hurt anything. When I took one out, you could barely tell that it had ever been in there, and that was when I was under the couch.

that actually makes sense lol. my plan is to have a 4 bulb socket hanging from the top and then two single bulbs hanging down around the sides once (hopefully she) starts growing.

> http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000JQ4O2U/afromods-20 I hear this one is good.

Of the one's you posted, this is the only one which is both auto-ranging and has a fused high-current port. It also has an audible warning when the probes are in the wrong jacks. For $25 it looks like a good value.

Any zwave switch should be able to toggle power. They are relatively easy to wire in. Just watch a few YouTube videos (TURN THE BREAKER OFF FIRST).


I wanted to have a toggle switch that matched the other toggles in the house (not the flat 'paddles'). These are a little large but should find in a double box like that.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM

You could use a smart plug like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Initially, you would need to be on their local wi-fi connection, and they yours if their controlling one on your end, to get it set up. Once it's configured you can control it from anywhere using the app on your phone.

Link to bucket pics
I used:

• 2 Dayspot CFL 26W/64K, Equivalent to 130W, FLC26D 12 hours on 12 hours off
  
  
• 5 Fans SilverStone 120mm Fan Filter with Grill FF121 (Black)
  
  
• 1 AcuRite 00613A1 Indoor Humidity Monitor
  
  
• 1 Titan Controls 734150 Apollo 14 8-Outlet Power Strip with 24 Hour Timer, 120-volt
  
  
• 1 LimoStudio High Quality 4 Socket Photo Bulb Adapter - Converts 1 Socket into 4 - Use for Standard Socket Flourescent Bulbs, AGG882-A
  
  
• 3 LE® 12V Flexible LED Strip Lights Kit, LED Tape, 6000K Daylight White, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 73 Lumens/ft, Non Waterproof, 12 Volt LED Light Strips, Pack of 16.4ft/5m, All Accessories Included
  
  
• 2 Aluminium trash bins
  
  
• 2 rolls of duck tape
  
  
• and I use Figi and Evian water only because of balanced ph lvl and added minerals. Maybe a few Poland springs here and there when I was out of the other water.

How does your blower fan connect to power, hard wired I assume?

this meter will do it, but you need (some) infrastructure to be able to collect/log the data depending on what you want.

Once you have meter(s) like that you can do cool things with them though.

Those little hook and nail things are great for running a cable line long the wall and keeping it in place as well...

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

I got this one and it works great so far.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V8K3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are never enough power outlets at conferences, especially IT ones. You'd think they'd realize that a large chunk of their attendees have multiple gadgets that will need charging between sessions, sobring a power strip or splitter. I have one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UE7SC8) in my laptop bag, and it is awesome for conferences and airports, it is a cube about an inch on a side that splits out to three power outlets.

I use a Dr. Power II and it does a great job.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Automated-Supply-Oversized-Supplies/dp/B005F778JO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493684045&sr=8-1&keywords=dr+power+ii

ive got some of these that work great with existing switches and their faceplates and are about the same cost as whole new switches.

Seconded. I use these; they work great.

If you use the switches I mentioned in my other comment then you can use any Z-Wave remote to control the fan. The Aeotec Minimote is a popular choice. Just keep in mind that those switches aren't compatible with the manufacturer's RF module, so you'll need to remove that from the fan's canopy.

I just got one of these, works great https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071GVGVVH/ref=dp_cr_wdg_tit_nw_mr