(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best interconnects

Some people have PMed asking for more info, so I may as well put it here.

I used the following:

Monoprice
8inch 28AWG High Speed Male to Female HDMI® Port Saver - Black
For the hdmi port. I also bought another hdmi piece, like a corner basically, it's in some of the early pics, but I didn't use it in the final build.


Tiesto USB Hub 2.0 4-port/4 port hub USB 2.0 Speed Cute Octopus Design - BLACK
I removed the black case on this as well as the black rubber around the usb ports. Then basically hot glued the ports in place against painters tape to make it even and smooth.

Your Cable Store
6 inch USB Micro male to female OTG extension cable
I cut these in half and spliced it into the original Gamecube power switch/button. That way I can leave my pi plugged in and switch it on like a normal console.

Evercool 60x60X10mm 5v Ball Bearing Fan, 3 Pin EC6010M05CA
I set up these fans to run off the main power, so they turn off and on with the pi.

To take apart each Gamecube, i bought this screwdriver.


Also got each person a Buffalo Classic USB Gamepad for PC
And a Retrolink N64 Style Classic Controller For PC

I forgot to mention, I took apart and weighted the buffalo classic usb controllers to be closer to the weight and feel of the original snes controller.
The exact increase in weight is about 10 pennies, but I used 8, 4 on each side, inside the controller, in stacks, glued in, because 8 fit better than 10.

It's a really tiny thing, but if you weight one controller and then hold an unweighted and a weighted one to compare, the unweighted one feels like a toy.

The N64 controller felt decently heavy on it's own. (Plus the rumble pack used to make them super heavy and I wasn't going to try and match that weight.)

Other things, these have in them the pi2 with 1gb of ram. I bought the 2 amp power supplies that are recommended for the pi.

I also bought some other odds and ends: ethernet couplers, each pi has a 16gb sd card in it.

I also replaced the power switch in my final one (the silver one) because I damaged the original switch. I used these switches.

I bought Rust-Oleum metalic base and Dupli-color spray paints.

Tools/materials used:
Bought a dremel, didn't need it.

Used my soldering iron and clamps constantly.

Used a lot of hot glue and gorilla glue.

Mod podge for applying the logos to the top of the cases. I also had some spray sealant from another project I put on the logos, before I applied them to the cases, so the ink wouldn't smear.

I used a fair bit of heat shrink and electrical tape. Also wires with couplers so the entire bottom of the console can unplug from the top if I need to repair something. Basically these though not the same brand.

Much of my job is working with electronics and soldering so this was all fairly easy for me. If you're new to building and soldering, please be careful. I've cut myself and burnt myself quite a few times. Be more careful than me.

Excellent! The Pi 3 b+ will be perfect for this project.

Personally I would avoid trying to reinvent the wheel. Breadboards would be good to connect lights to the Pi if you're experimenting and developing something new, but what you want to build already exists in one form or another! Find a product that does what you want already, or close enough, so you can avoid having to mess around with breadboards and tiny cables. They're not my wheelhouse either to be honest, but if needs be I'm certain you can find someone who can help you with that side of things. Judging by what you've said I think Adafruit's Neopixel range would be a good fit. You can attach them directly to the GPIO pins on the Pi and there are Python libraries that greatly assist in powering them.

Neopixel strips: (You can find longer ones, I believe, and daisy-chain them)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adafruit-NeoPixel-Digital-RGB-Strip/dp/B01KHWGVJ4/ref=asc_df_B01KHWGVJ4/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309929956235&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5515745871402631717&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007080&hvtargid=aud-544645955450:pla-652589934634&psc=1

Neopixel guide:
https://thepihut.com/blogs/raspberry-pi-tutorials/using-neopixels-with-the-raspberry-pi

Caveat: I've not used Neopixel lights before (though I certainly would like to experiment one day) so you're in kinda unfamiliar territory here.

Start by getting the Pi and the lights up and running, then hit me up for any advice on web-control. It's not that difficult to have a simple web server running PHP that can trigger Python scripts to make the lights do fun things. Will you only be accessing it from the local network or would you like to be able to access it from anywhere on the internet?

Since I don't know what items other than the 15 Arduino you need to power (such as LEDs or motors or ...), I'll give you some options for 5V DC route.

When shopping for a power supply, you should try to buy a one that can supply a minimum of 1.5 to 2 times more current than you need. First it's a good thing to have extra, just in case you need more, Second you may need extra overhead at power up because of short current surges when everything first starts up, Third you don't know how well any specific power supply model might be able to regulate at maximum current rating. I prefer 2x minimum multiplier when I buy power supplies for myself.

-----

Amazon sells lower current models (5A and 10A) but are close to price of 18Amp model.

$19.95 - 5VDC 18A :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018TEAPRQ/

$28.50 - 5VDC 40A :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131V99BA/ (most likely overkill)

$30.24 - 5VDC 8A, 12VDC 3.5A, -12VDC 0.5A :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYS5133

Also, you can find power supplies with 2/3/4 different DC output voltages too.

Information about each model - http://www.meanwellusa.com/productSeries.aspx#

-----

The above power supplies don't come with an AC wall power cord, so either cut-up a power cord you have a school, or purchase one. You can either strip the ends and use bare wire, or add spade terminals like the following.

https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Power-Spade-Black/dp/B077XRW1YG/

You can buy spade terminals at any automotive store, big box lumber store, walmart. If you don't own a crimp tool, and have a Harbor Freight in your city, then you might want to consider this tool. Sign up for coupon by email and get 20% discount coupons from Harbor Freight, also it's possible the following might go on sale at any point too.

https://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-63708.html

If you need spades, then you might want to buy a kit with many styles, either from Amazon or locally.

https://www.harborfreight.com/150-piece-terminal-and-connector-set-67683.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/1012-piece-terminal-assortment-67687.html

-----

If you don't own a multimeter, then you better buy one, because you need it to test your the wiring after you assemble everything.

Hook up things in incremental steps and validate to prevent destroying multiple arduinos at the same time.

1. first hook up AC wire to power supply, then test output voltages of power supply.
   
   
2. next hook only ONE USB cable, then test output voltages at USB connector. Compare against similar cable plugged into a computer to make sure location of 5V and Ground are a correct match!!!!
   
   
3. next hook up to only ONE Arduino that you can sacrifice to verify the power is correct, make sure it powers up properly, then text voltages on Arudino board.
   
   
4. next make all USB cables, test one at a time with the same ONE arduino.
   
   
5. next hook up all 15 USB cables to power supply, next probe the ends of all cables to make sure location of 5V is correct, then use the ONE arduino to test each cable.
   
   
6. next go through all 15 arduino, and test ONE arduino at a time on any one USB cable.
   
   
7. next try hooking up a subset of Ardinos and test system, maybe try 5, then 10, then 15, or what ever feels right to you. After you hook up each group, leave power running for a while, maybe an hour, then check voltages at the power supply output and at all boards. After you hook up all 15, "burn in" for hours then check everything again.
   
   -----
   
   You might want to hook up a dedicated voltmeter to the output of the power supply too. Use this so you can easily see the voltage while it is running in the display. During assembly above, use a multimeter.
   
   $10.80 :: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GG3DWF/ (kind of expensive from Amazon)
   
   $1.52 :: https://www.ebay.com/itm/171514345083 (China, 3 weeks to 2 months to receive)
   
   -----
   
   If you need various electronic parts, such as resistors, capacitors, LEDs, for a cheaper price than Amazon, but you don't want to wait for a long ship time, consider Tayda. They are very popular on Reddit, do a search on Reddit. It usually takes about 6 to 9 days) to receive parts from Tayda to USA, depending on what day of the week you order. You can get a 15% discount code from them on Facebook about once a month. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/
   
   -----
   
   

Sure. Here's the shopping list:

Project Box (5 pack, $5.80)

SMA Connectors (4 Pack, $5.85)

SMA Pigtails (Need 2, $4.85/ea)

SMA Extension Cable (Need 2, $8.50/ea) (3 feet)

RAM Suction Cup Mount ($15.99)

Start out by making four small pilot holes in the project box where you see both the connectors and antennas on mine.

Use the screws included with the RAM mount to go through the bottom left and top right corners of the bottom of the project box. This almost perfectly lines up with the holes in the suction cup, but make sure to use a template. You will not use the ball piece that comes with the suction cup.

Connect an SMA Female-Female connector on one end of each of the pigtails. Tighten with a wrench and pliers, but careful not to mess up the thread.

Enlarge the two holes on the small side of the project box to fit the female-female connectors (that you just attached) through, barely. Use generous hot glue to fix them in place on the inside, with the screw end from the SMA pigtail being pushed all the way up to the project box wall to allow as much of the connector to stick out as possible. Note, you may need to apply pressure to keep the connectors as straight and tight as possible until the glue cools/dries completley.

Take the other ends of the pigtail connectors (with the included nuts and other stuff) and put them through the other two holes on opposite long sides of the project box (Make sure you don't mix up left and right), enlarging the holes as necessary to ensure they fit. Use the included fittings to fix them in place firmly. (Use a wrench to tighten)

Stuff the pigtails in the project box, again verifying that you didn't mix up left and right. Close it up, connect the 3 foot SMA cables to the plugs on the bottom, and wire them into your Stratux. You should be good to go!

Photo

A computer PSU could work, but I wouldn't recommend it. It may have the same issue unless it's a more expensive one. Plus you will have to trick it into turning on and you may need to apply a dummy load to one of it's five volt sources. You would propose have to trick a server PSU into turning on as well but the price per watt is really good.


If you want minimal hassle, I've had good luck with things like this. Plus it's Amazon so if there's any issues you can return it. You can get similar ones for cheaper on eBay. Ideally if your gonna buy a power supply buy big because you don't know when your gonna upgrade chargers. It also helps to avoid the issue you are presently having.

https://www.amazon.com/Switching-%EF%BC%88SMPS%EF%BC%89Monitoring-Industrial-Transformer-220VAC-DC24V/dp/B0786LMNR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?keywords=24v+power+supply&qid=1574474620&sr=8-11

> Well shit didn't think about that with the controller. Here is exactly what I ordered.http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-th9x-r9b-9channel-radio.html

According to the description it comes with a receiver.

> Just bought 2 of the 3S 5500mAh 30-40C

That should do you nicely.

> Any other random things you think we will need

Using amazon links and favoring prime options even if a few $$ more. The most cost effective way to get any of the below would be ebay and slow free shipping.

• Double sided mounting tape to help hold the ESCs, receiver, or flight controller in place. I do NOT use the "heavy duty" or "permanent" mounting tape as you may want to move things around or swap out parts at some point. My preference is the 3M/Scotch Clear Mounting Tape as I find to easy to remove from the surface. Should be able to find the mounting tape at hardware store or even a target/walmart.
  
• Heat shrink tubing
  
• You'll need a way to connect your batteries to your power distribution board. The batteries you picked use a Dean-Style T Connector. You'll need to make a connector cable like this to attach to your power dist board. - Image. You can either make your own cable from scratch or cut and repurpose existing cables.
  
• From "Scratch" - Connectors + Wire + some heat shrink and soldering time.
  
• Repurpose - Buy one of these, cut off the unneeded end, and solder to the S550's power distribution board. http://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Tamiya-Charge-Adapter/dp/B0035OYLU8/
  
• Parallel battery connector. Gives you the option to either run one or two 5500mAh batteries. Making a 11000mAh for long flights - http://www.amazon.com/Deans-Ultra-Battery-Harness-Parallel/dp/B000RGZ07A/
  
  
• If your radio receiver doesn't come with servo leads you'll need them to connect between the radio receiver and the flight controller (and gimbal)
  
• Short - http://www.amazon.com/deep-deal-10cm-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B00BL0YGS0/
  
• Extension - http://www.amazon.com/VIMVIP-Female-Futaba-Extension-Control/dp/B00N8P8TT8/ Might be needed to run leads to the gimbal for tilt control. Prime... so you can wait on this till you know if the other servo cables will be long enough.
  
  
• Battery straps. I'm running out the door so can't search/grab more links right now, but you'll need some velcro straps to hold the battery or batteries in place.
  
  
• You'll want to check ebay for extra S550 arms if you haven't already. Shipping will take a while, but they are cheap and good to have some spare arms, as they will break. Alternate front/back/side colors are nice to help maintain orientation in the sky.
  
  
• Extra props is you haven't ordered any. NOTE: The DJI E310 Power set uses the newer 9450 DJI props instead of the older 9443
  
  

If I was buying piecemeal, I would buy...

• FT-450D $750
  
• Pyramid 30amp switching psu ~$80
  
• DX-CC Fan Dipole $180
  
• 50' rg8x feedline $20
  
  total ~ $1030
  
  So youd save ~$200, but you also wouldnt be getting the LDG tuner ... which is likely where the cost difference is. IMO you dont need the LDG tuner, the built in ATU + fan dipole that is resonant on multiple bands will get you operating on 80,40,20,10 (and maybe even 6).
  
  Alternatively, you can build very simple 40/20 fan dipole for MUCH cheaper than the DX-CC (like ... $50?) so it really depends how much you want it to work "out of the box".
  
  FWIW i bought the dx-cc when i bought my first HF rig (an FT-897d) because I didnt want to mess with antenna stuff a ton before getting on the air. I've been very happy with it.
  
  
  
  edit:
  
  to clarify, I think you are better off spending money on an antenna than you are on a tuner.

I got this cheap OLED screen for $10.99. The text looks nice and it's able to display plenty of information for only being 0.96" diagonal. I got the blue colored one just because it was first available, but they have different colors.

It comes pre-soldered and you just need four jumper wires. Easy.

Only UAT, ES, CPU temp, and towers displayed for now. It can easily be extended to show more information.

I wrote this Python script to display the information and update once per second. It gets the data from Stratux via webinterface, parses the JSON, and draws the information on the screen.

Set the script to start up on boot, and now don't have to look at the iPad to get reception stats. Neat.

And just for fun, the startup screen: http://i.imgur.com/qIUOzkK.jpg

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

I mean, any case that can hold an mATX motherboard (and any other components, like a normal ATX power supply, GPU, etc) should be able to fit it. You'd just need to convert the non-standard power switch header to the case's standardized connectors.

The "simplest" way that I think would be relatively reliable, would be to get something like the original power connector assembly (like this one, though there are some cheaper from China, just that they'd probably take longer to arrive), cut the cables, strip the wiring just a little bit, then shove those loose wire ends into the proper corresponding normal header connections (or if you get fancy, solder them to breakaway header pin sort of things (maybe like these, though I'd have to look at actual pin sizing and make sure they're the right type)). The biggest issue with the 5-pin header on this motherboard is that the pins are much smaller and spaced closer than your normal connectors.

To adapt the sysfan fan connection to a normal fan, you'd probably need to get something like one of these or these to adapt to a normal case fan connector. Basically, you're looking for that 5-pin connector to then be able to connect it to a standard fan connector. Most people don't have spare parts lying around, but if one did have a random dell 5-pin fan, you could chop off its plug then "splice" it into a normal fan connector like this.

I used TechFlex 1/8" 25 feet from Amazon.

I used VKTech heatshrink.

I could have done a much better job on the heatshrink on both ends of the cable, however I didn't have time to use my heat gun so I used my Zippo with a Thunderbird butane insert.

It turned out pretty good in my opinion, however like I said, I could have done a much better job.

Good idea, and I had actually already picked some of those jumper wires based on another post someone had made. For anyone playing with a raspi, they are great things to have around. These are the ones I ordered:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD2BWPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately, the width of the female connectors is just slightly too large for me to fit 4 of these connectors side-by-side.

However, since the pins are ordered [L G G R] I was able to connect the jumpers to the L pin and the G pin next to the R pin, allowing me to confirm the speaker output terminals will work, but I'm thinking I need that specific 4-pin plug in order to connect all 4 wires w/o soldering directly to the pins (or I need to find some jumper wires with thinner connectors).

I have purchased this package of connectors from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0731MZCGF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's more than I wanted to pay for just a couple of connectors, but if they work, it might be handy to have them around for future projects. However, I also need to get the appropriate pin crimper once I confirm these are the right size for the connector on the board. And if they won't work, Amazon has free return shipping, so I'll just send them back.

Thank you for your reply and help. Really appreciate it!

The original power supply was specified to be (8) of these:

Brand:Meanwall
Power:200 W
Voltage:5V
Use voltage:220 V
Current:40A

https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-LRS-200-5-Single-Switchable/dp/B0131V99BA

However, these require AC input and therefore are not portable from my understanding. That is why a battery is preferred.

Tool wise, you'll need the BBS Luna wrench, allen keys, lots of zip ties, and something to do the wiring.

Two choices for the wiring: Crimping or Soldering.
For crimping, you'll need heat shrink insulated crimping connectors (I got these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075TYSD26/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a crimping tool that works with insulated crimps.
FOr soldering, you'll need heatshrink tubing, a soldering iron, lead solder (don't get that unleaded stuff).
For both a heatgun would be good to have.
Of course you'll need a wire cutter and wire stripper as well.

Depending on chainring, you'll likely need a new (longer) chain than is on the bike, as well as a chain tool to remove the old one.

You'll also want a Thudbuster or Suntour NCX seatpost suspension and a more comfy seat I think.

Those are called gel splices and they're available at most home improvement stores. They're actually pretty cool. Inside is a little bit of 2-part epoxy. When you squeeze it with pliers, the seal containing the epoxy breaks and you get a very durable, waterproof splice. Obviously it's only voice grade, but they're still good at what they do. Here's a product link for them

Is there stranded wire you could suggest for this application?

And yes I typically mount a junction box to a tree and use These or barrier strips inside the box. Then after running through ip68 strain reliefs I let the wire hang down to the ground and loosly zip tie the wire to said tree to help reduce some potential strain.

The whole system is kind of pieced togther throughout the years before I started using different types of wire and different types of connections everywhere. The old technician was very dilligent but our budget is very tight so he used whatever was available.

In an ideal world with a large budget I would tear everything out and build a single armored, hermetically sealed system that uses common connectors everywhere and is completely separate from the chairlift system, but that may not happen for a long time.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O2LKEW2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This screen is pretty great, there's a python library for it too

The original power supply is junk. Here's what I replaced mine with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0109IMRPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

When I hit "preheat PLA", you don't even hear the fan change speeds. Works good!

Why not these? https://www.amazon.com/Valley-Enterprises-UR-3-2-Wire-Splice/dp/B004EEMJS4 This is pretty standard for splicing telephone line and they are super quick.

-Even metric sockets/wrenches from 8-14 mm
-#2 Phillips screwdriver
-flat blade screw driver
(All above are used for removal and disassembly of the battery)
-multi-meter (for testing battery voltage and checking to make sure you're not grabbing a hot lead) You can get one super cheap at Walmart. You don't need a $100 meter for most basic multi meter usage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502035847&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=multimeter+digital&dpPl=1&dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&ref=plSrch
-balance charger (for rebalancing the batteries)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036066&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=imax+b6ac+v2&dpPl=1&dpID=51GvA3h-MNL&ref=plSrch
-18 gauge wire (I made my own wire harnesses)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LZRV0HV/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036364&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=18+gauge+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51CpIxqIWbL&ref=plSrch
-wire strippers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQ21CA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036896&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wire+strippers&dpPl=1&dpID=415oINm8uRL&ref=plSrch
-spade connectors
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1753K2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036854&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=red+spade+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=31HVegxklVL&ref=plSrch
-banana plugs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00APVQZ8U/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036751&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=banana+plugs

Recently finished building some cables for my newly renovated cinema room and wanted to share the process with you guys in case anyone was looking for a super simple (but still high quality) cable build on the cheap.

[EDIT] Here's a link to the various parts used in this build:

• Mediabridge 14/2 Direct Burial CCA wire
  
• Techflex 3/8 inch Nylon Multi-Filament sleeving
  
• Monoprice Affinity Series banana plugs
  
• Parts Express 8mm 2-conductor cable pants
  
  Keep in mind, if you are using different speaker wire, sizes needed for some of these parts are likely going to be slightly different.
  
  Additional tools that will make things easier:
  
  
• Single-action wire stripper (traditional works too)
  
• Electrician shears or hot knife (for cutting nylon sleeving)
  
• Heat gun (for shrink wrap)

A lot more supplies these days are switching. The cost and efficiency are too good to ignore, and most hams are starting to get over their fear of them now that technology has improved.

I cannot speak to the quality of the $20 one on amazon, but it is a direct knockoff of a MeanWell supply (whose prices are also VERY competitive) The company I work for now uses MeanWell supplies for some of our products.

If you can, try to find the spec on the switching frequency, the higher it is the better off you will be (the easier it is to filter).

See my submission of using a Meanwell LRS-350-12 for a go-box: http://imgur.com/a/Wzn1g

You'll see I did have to make a small filter to make the supply totally quiet on 160 and 80 meters, you can also just use a long thick cable as a quick filter but that's not recommended due to the losses.

LRS-350-12 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Mean-LRS-350-12-Switching-Power-Supply/dp/B0109IMRPS

Do consider paying a few more bucks for an on brand supply, there are things you can cheap out on, but the thing that sits between your mains voltage and your LVDC powering our expensive rigs should NOT be one of them.

Don't have a picture of the flip side I'll try to grab one. It's pretty basic. I bought these fans: WINSINN 50mm Fan 12V Brushless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDG3NYZ

Clipped off the connector it came with and grouped them all together (red w/ red, black w/ black) and crimped and soldered them to these terminals:
Baomain Red Insulated Fork Spade Wire Connector Electrical Crimp Terminal 18-22AWG 100 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B1753K2

Then connected them to a barrier strip (for easy detachment and in case I want to add another fan later):
10pcs (5 Sets) 5 Positions Dual Row 600V 15A Screw Terminal Strip Blocks with Cover + 400V 15A 5 Positions Pre-Insulated Terminals Barrier Strip (Black & Red) by MILAPEAK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CLY91HZ

From the strip I ran 22awg wires to the +12v on the PSU.

That depends on your soldering skills and how much time you have.

Don't get me wrong -- I have a very nice solder station and am good at soldering, but these are a very accepted method of running alarm wire. I've never been a huge fan of them, but they're reliable and available in both dry, and gel-filled (to keep moisture out) options, and just work well.

Another option is UY connectors. These are more used in the telecom industry, but are also usually gel-filled and rated for alarm-gauge cable.

I've used both for alarm and entry-type cable with success.

This ones: https://www.amazon.de/Brennenstuhl-Funkschalt-Set-Funksteckdosen-Innenbereich-Kindersicherung/dp/B001AX8QUM/ref=sr_1_49?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=brennstuhl+funk+steckdosen&qid=1570029553&sr=8-49


They are pretty easy to work with

Thanks! I will have a look at them in case my current plan fails.
I now bought Brennenstuhl RCS 1000 N plugs, you get 3 plugs for less than 20 EUR:
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B001AX8QUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


They are not controllable with WiFi or an app but with a 433Mhz transmitter on an Arduino or Raspberry. I use it together with a NodeMCU ESP8266 module which acts as my controlserver using the ESPiLight (https://github.com/puuu/ESPiLight) library. The library is based on PiLight.
The webserver on the NodeMCU accepts certain URL's and sends the 433Mhz signal to turn them ON or OFF.
e.g. a call to http://192.168.0.115/control?device=Outlet01&state=off turns Outlet #1 off

Range of my cheap transmitter is about 10m and it works through walls, there are also some with more range.


Total cost of this setup was about 25 EUR:

• Brennenstuhl RCS 1000 N plugs - 19 EUR
  
  
• NodeMCU Module - 4 EUR
  
  
• 433Mhz Transmitter and Receiver - 2 EUR

i canged the code like this, its the same


yes it is, half a year ago i did the same with the led strip and the same power supply.

​

the Video is this strip: https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B01KHWGVJ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and an other strip wich i testet it with is: https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B06XS1FMZ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very nice, clean look. All it needs are some cable pants to finish the look.
https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Cable-Pants-2-Conductor/dp/B0009XQPFC

ah yea, it most likely wont work very well, radios rely on the 50 ohm cables.

you'll prolly want some of this, its what i use for my cb radio, its nice coax :)

https://www.amazon.com/Steren-205-750-50-Feet-UHF-UHF-Mini-RG8x/dp/B004EFNHXE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505360711&sr=8-3&keywords=rg8x

• 12v vs 24v question - many 24v strips have longer "cut intervals", so if you needed a piece exactly 9" long, you might have to go over/under to fit. For the same wattage, 24v strips draw less current which lets you use smaller wires.
  
• wiring - There are many ways to do this... as you made reference to, voltage drop happens w/ long strips. If you attempt to daisy-chain them, it can get pretty bad. If you do a sort of star or home-run configuration, you mostly avoid the problem. You run a 2-conductor power wire to where each strip is from your power supply. If it were just a couple, you could just use wire nuts. (not very sturdy, but they work fine).
  For this job, I'd probably use some of these:
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CM1JQCR/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1
  
   
  
  One bar for positive (red), one for negative (black). You run a slightly larger gauge wire from your power supply to the bus bars. You then run a wire to each strip location. Just keep your polarity (red/blacks) straight. On the side w/ the bus bars, you can crimp on little spade lugs to the wires if you want it to look neat. You could mount the bus bars to a board, or put them inside a little plastic box if you want to hide it, just make sure you don't short out any of the wires if you have 'em all bunched together.
  
  You can probably still daisy-chain a couple of those cubbies w/o too much dimming, though.
  
  PowerSupply --> Bus ----> cubbie1 --> cubbie2 --> cubbie3

Thanks everyone, I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-JST-PHR-Connector-Female-Header/dp/B0731MZCGF

Looks like it has crimp versions of both male & female 2, 3 & 4 pin connections.

Lol try these any radio shack will have them or something like them. Wire tap connecter aka banana splice

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-3MBTT-T-Tap-Connector/dp/B001JT72D4

Having a set of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075TYSD26/ wire crimp connectors with shrink wrap is a great idea.

The one I recomend uses mirco USB. I ended up having to re-wire everything too but lucky for me, I just had to tap into the 12v power supply from the rear view mirror. I tuck everything underneath the headliner.

I bought this

And soldered these to the bare ends. I used those pins to put them into the connector behind the rear view mirror. Looks like this.

I went with this (see link), I added a 5v 120mm Noctua fan and ran it off a usb smart strip, I am now putting it on a buck converter.

24V 25A 600W LED Driver Switching Power Supply （SMPS）Monitoring power supply Industrial Power Transformer 110/220VAC-DC24V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786LMNR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cIxrDb43XR6WK

It looks like regular clear heat shrink, though now that I think of it, my clear tube is a bit more flexible (and more prone to tearing when shrinking sometimes) than the regular stuff. This is what I bought, I don't know if it's exactly what you're looking for but it does seem close to what those battery buzzers come with.

Looks like these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJVKKKI/

One of my 3d printers use them for fan connectors and took me a while to find replacements.

http://i.imgur.com/8vAiGxn.jpg

In fact, a large part of the exposed board is the ground plane (where "IC1-C1" is silkscreened...that's a ground pour).

Connect a pigtail like this, snip off the male end, and solder the inside lead to where i labeled "center pin" and the outer sheath to any of the ground pads. Epoxy over the joints to strengthen the solder joints.

They have rolls on Amazon

Uxcell a12080700ux0466 Polyolefin 2:1 Halogen-Free Heat Shrink Tubing, 2 m, 6.5', 25 mm Diameter, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IILEVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UOX4ybZ4QD60D

Before using those TPLink things, which are $35 per outlet, if you have HomeAssistant installed on a Raspberry Pi you can use the cheaper 433mhz remote controlled plugs + a radio for the Pi.

Here's a set of 3 plugs that I bought.
(Here is similar on amazon.ca, which probably will work)

and here's a radio (I've heard that the cheaper ones work less well, and you should find a "superheterodyne" one, which I can't find on amazon.ca -- maybe aliexpress or ebay if you can wait?)

and the rpi-rf home assistant configuration:
https://home-assistant.io/components/switch.rpi_rf/

Your suggested more expensive switch can probably be polled to see if they're on or off, and probably confirms a state change. This solution the communication is one way and hope-it-works. My experience is it is working most of the time - there is the occasional missed command.

http://www.amazon.com/10Pairs-13cm-2Pins-Female-Connector/dp/B00MJVKKKI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

Not 100% certain that they're the same, but they look like it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009IILEVY/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U I found this. 25mm heatshrink is supposed to be good (approximately 1 inch).

Just get a set of wire taps. They are safer than wrapping a wire around a fuse

https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-3MBTT-T-Tap-Connector/dp/B001JT72D4

It is a little connector, think of it like the cable that would go from your wall to your cable box. It is tiny here is a link to one: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell®-Female-Bulkhead-Jumper-Pigtail/dp/B007POCIM2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462316944&sr=8-2&keywords=Pigtail+Sma

That one is a bit long you want 3-6cm

should try some clear shrink tubing instead of the gloss.

Possibly there are a few different types.

Scotchlock - basically one piece that provides connections for both wires.

[Scotchlock]
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-Double-Electrical-Connector/dp/B06X6MPH1K

or a standard T-tap

[T-Tap]
https://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-3MBTT-T-Tap-Connector/dp/B001JT72D4

The t-tap only provides the splice connection, you would put a male spade on the new wire and connect it to the T-tap.

[Male Spade]
https://www.amazon.com/Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Terminal-14-16AWG/dp/B00G9WTOOG


These are just examples to give you an idea, make sure you have the right size for the guage wire you are using. I believe it was 14awg wire for the CR-10x

That's totally fine, the slick way is to use a tap connector.

If its factory yes. They are cheap Chinese power supplies and will go bad. First the fan will start making noise usually, then things go bad from there. Go to amazon order you a meanwell. This one here MEAN WELL LRS-350-12 348W 12V 29 Amp Single Output Switchable Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0109IMRPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tdO3DbC8JMAXM

Braided sleeve:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2RG20G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heatshrink:

http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-150Pcs-Polyolefin-Halogen-Free-Shrink/dp/B00EXLLXK8/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1420770599&sr=1-5&keywords=heatshrink

https://www.amazon.com/Shrink-Solder-Sleeve-Crimpless-Connectors/dp/B01M1032A7?th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Waterproof-Electrical-Terminals-Automotive/dp/B075TYSD26/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542647519&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=splices&dpPl=1&dpID=512rF%2BLN5JL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2LKEW2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_AID7xb5PTG0ZH

Mine's blue; there are other colors too.

         Parts List for (PID Controller Box)<br />

Some of these parts may be purchased at your local hardware store for a cheaper price.....


• Dual Digital Display PID Temperature Controller: http://amzn.com/B002PIM3R8

• Solid State Relay w/ Heatsink: http://amzn.com/B005K2IXHU

• PT100 Thermocouple Sensor: http://amzn.com/B008MU0VFY

• Aluminum Project Enclosure Box, Econobox: http://amzn.com/B005T7RPFC

• 3 Pin IEC320 Male Power Socket w/ Switch: http://amzn.com/B00F4MGRRE . TIP - Replace Fuse With F15AL250V.

• GX16-3 Aviation Connector:http://amzn.com/B00FB56T04

• Black - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H414

• Gray - Tamper Resistant Power Receptacle: http://amzn.com/B002L6H428

• IEC320-C13 Power Cord: http://amzn.com/B0012EI6KE

• Rubber Feet: http://ebay.com/itm/351131287090

• Heat Shrink: http://amzn.com/B00EXLLXK8

• Fork Terminal Wire Connectors - Non Insulated ~ 16-14 AWG: http://amzn.com/B00LUUAB94

• Female Disconnect - Non Insulated: http://amzn.com/B0071OXJ5Q

• Insulated Copper Wire ~ 18-14 AWG

• Nuts & Bolts

Fadecandy is a USB board about 2 inches long and maybe 1.5 inches wide. Because it's USB, the 3v3 and 5v logic are no longer something you need to be concerned with.

You run a server app on the Pi which interfaces with the fadecandy board and then you just code for the LEDs like normal.

Yes, the Pi is awful at WS2812 LEDs because of the timing. A kernel module was written to let the Pi use the kernel timing clock, but I was less than successful in implementing it, so I just swapped to Fadecandy and never looked back.

Yeah, it's a tad expensive at around $25, but it controls almost 500 LEDs without issue and you can run more than 1 board. I bought a bunch of these to make connecting to the boards simple and changeable. I attach a female connector to all of my WS2812 strings and I can swap them to any fadecandy board in seconds.

The problem using Arduino (which you can work around with some effort) is that you don't get very interactive with the LEDs. I like big programming projects where they can be triggered externally and the Pi is just better suited for the task.

Edit: The only thing I HATE about Fadecandy is that it has no usable mounting points, so if you want to mount it somewhere, you almost have to hot glue it. If they built a Fadecandy board that had the mount holes to match a Pi so I could stack it with the Pi, I'd pay double.

No problem. 60 feet is 18.3 meters. At 18 watts per meter, you will need to drive approximately 330 watts. Divide the watts by volts and you get about 27 amps. That is not something you will get out of plug in wall adapter. Something like this will work. If you worry about fan noise, then this. I would lean towards the fan however.

You will need 4 rolls of LED tape and I would stick the repeater output in the middle somewhere. Where you place the components is up to you but just be conscious of voltage drop if they are far away. You may need to use the voltage adjustment screw on the power supply to bump it slightly so you get a solid 12volts at the connection points.

depending on whats used to power this thing, but a pump at the lake sonds bigger than coffee mashine or computer. if you're in the comfort of your own home, i have some 933mhz wifi relays to plug between your wall and your appliance. they stay off after i cut the power from the wall side. sorry for the crap language, to lazy to google the acctual terms

edit: https://www.amazon.de/Brennenstuhl-Funkschalt-Set-Funksteckdosen-Handsender-Kindersicherung/dp/B001AX8QUM/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1487880350&sr=1-4&keywords=funksteckdosen that kind of wifi relays