Reddit mentions: The best paint supplies tape

You mentioned that you may be a beginner, so if you are not, forgive me. I will try to cover as much as I can about painting a wall, and hopefully what you need will be in here somewhere.

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First things first, you will want some rollers and trays, and you will want some brushes. Look for something that is springy, and strong. When you run your fingers along the bristles, you want them to bounce right back up after your touch. You will get what you pay for, so it is worth it to invest in good brushes. If you care for them, and clean them well, they will be good brushes for you for life.

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To tape or not to tape: I personally hate taping. I find that it takes way too long to set up, and people get overconfident that the paint will not seep under the tape and effect the adjacent wall/ceiling/molding. In my experience, it still makes a crappy edge, and its just too much of a hassle.

The only place I use tape is on things that can get dripped on like molding or flooring. There is a dispenser you can purchase where you can combine your painters tape with a roll of paper attached and that is what I use. Its quick, and easy, and worth it so you don't spend a million hours setting up, and a million more hours cleaning after.

If you must tape, buy blue painters tape so you don't fuck up the walls you are not painting. You want to put the tape on the wall you don't want to put color on. Put the edge of the tape as close to the corner of the wall as possible, as straight as possible, and rub down really really hard on the tape so that it is less likely for paint to seep under the edge. Seriously, though, it takes forever, and it really isn't worth it.

So what do we do with the edges of the walls if we're not taping? Worry about that later, it'll come in a minute. First you have to get comfortable with your tools.

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Ok, so you've removed everything from the room, and put paper and plastic down so you don't drip on the floor. (Or, alternatively, you've moved shit out of your way, and covered it in painters cloth or plastic or something. It may not be near the wall, you're painting, but cover it anyways; you don't want to have to regret accidental spills of paint.)

Now we can get to fucking around with paint. First, practice putting paint on the rollers and on the brushes, and use the middle of the wall you're going to paint as your practice area. The goal is to just get comfortable with painting a wall by messing around with rollers and brushes in a harmless area. You'll get used to how your rollers and brushes will work, and you'll feel a lot more confident. A lot of painting a wall is about confidence, surprisingly.

With the brush, avoid getting paint all the way up to the handle of the brush. Leave about a half of an inch to an inch of bare brush any time you apply paint. You're only painting with the bristles, don't waste paint by putting it on parts of the tool you won't be painting with.

Practice painting all kinds of strokes. Wide strokes with the wide part of the brush; thin strokes, where you hold the brush like a pen, and draw a thin line... Try writing stuff, and drawing pictures. It'll help you get a feel for what works and what doesn't with the brush.

With the roller... well, put some paint in your pan, and just practice getting an even amount of paint on the thing. Roll the thing out in the pan, and practice putting it on the wall. Its pretty straight-forward, and you'll get the hang of the difference between too much and not enough paint quickly. If you get drips on the wall, roll the brush out on the pan some more to remove excess paint, and use the roller to even out the drips.

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When you finally feel comfortable, and you get a good sense of how good your hands are, you can move into actually seriously painting the wall.

Lets get back to doing the edges of the wall. So what do you do if you're not taping a wall? There is a technique called "cutting in" or "cutting a wall." This guy will explain it a lot better than I.

Basically, you use the brush like a marker down the edge of the walls to make a line. You want to go slowly, and pay attention. When you put the brush against the wall, notice how the bristles will gently push out in all directions. Use the edge of the brush, and the corner of the wall to your advantage, and you'll make a nice clean, professional looking line. Here is another, very informative video to help you out with this. If you are concerned with how good you are at cutting in, practice cutting in by making a border around the practice mess you made in the middle of the wall. Once you get used to making a practice boarder, give the edges a try. The worst that will happen is that you will need a wet rag to wipe paint off the other wall.

Once you cut in all your edges, you can use the roller to roll on the rest of the wall.

You will end up doing several coats of paint on the wall. If the room is not well ventilated, bring in a fan or something to help move air around. It'll help you breathe, and it'll help the paint dry faster.

This is BASICALLY how you paint a wall. You may want to look to home improvement websites or youtube for more videos if you need more illustrations/how-to's.

It can be fun, so let it be, and avoid drawing anything too risque on the wall in the office if you have to leave it for any amount of time to dry.

Hope this all made sense, and Good luck!

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tl;dr. Cut in your edges first, then roll paint on the walls. Fuck painters tape.

Weather stripping would do it I think. Even Home Depot probably has one thick enough for that, but if not then I'm sure Amazon would.

On the top you could probably rest a draft guard. They are usually for the bottom of the door, but it looks like you could fit one on top. This DIY approach might work better due to gravity. You'll have to go to the plumbing section for the styrofoam pipe insulation, but it's only a few dollars for a 6 foot length. Heck, you might even be able to use that on the side of the door if you tape it in place.

Personally I don't like the typical flat weather stripping. I like the bristle kind or the 3D kind like this or this.

And I've never used it, but something like this could work too. I bet you could stick it on the side and top of the door.

Good luck, and I still think it would be best if your landlord took care of it if possible.

Rope-caulk is a great immediate solution for cold-weather, but not convenient long-term for windows that get opened regularly.

I hate it when I drive through a neighborhood of historic architectural interest and find that homeowners have replaced rolled-steel windows -- which were an important aspect of the house's architectural style -- with some modern bright-white replacement windows with an extra few inches of the window perimeter taken up by white plastic instead of glass. I can't imagine that the reduced light makes the interiors of the house any nicer either.

There are plenty of ways to maintain and upgrade the original windows, or replace them with visually equivalent but modern products from Crittall, OptimumWindow, etc.

Advice from the publication The Preservation of Historic Architecture: The U.S. Government's Official Guidelines for Preserving Historic Homes is this:
>Appropriate types of weatherstripping for metal windows:

>SPRING-METAL comes in bronze, brass or stainless steel with an integral friction fit clip. The weatherstripping is applied after the repaired windows are painted to avoid galvanic corrosion. This type of thin weatherstripping is intended for windows in good condition.

>VINYL STRIPS are scored and fold into a "V" configuration. Applied adhesive is necessary which will increase the thickness of the weatherstripping, making it inappropriate for some situations. The weatherstripping is generally applied to the window after painting.

>Closed cell FOAM TAPE comes either with or without an adhesive backing. It is effective for windows with a gap of approximately 1/4" and is easy to install. However, this type of weatherstripping will need frequent replacement on windows in regular use. The metal section should be cleaned of all dirt and grease prior to its application.

>SEALANT BEAD. This very effective type of weatherstripping involves the application of a clean bead of firm setting caulk on the primed frame with a polyethelene bond breaker tape on the operable sash. The window is then closed until the bead has set and takes the form of the gap. The sash is then opened and the tape is removed leaving the set caulk as the weatherstripping.

Acrylic panes on the inside mounted with magnet tape are a great upgrade for both thermal performance and infiltration issues. A notch out of the acrylic rectangle is necessary for the latch-position, but can be air-sealed against the adjacent class with foam tape.

So it was recommended you get painting tape so the wood doesn't come up and stuff (I have no idea what that's about but it's what I read) so this was the tape. This is the drill I used to make the hole. And here is the grommet I used to fill the hole (heh heh heh). All in all, a very easy process and makes it look really clean.

The 1080 is great. I am coming from a 970 but it wouldn't drive the Dell u3415w very well at 3440x1440 but this card does it no problem. I have been playing Mirror's Edge Catalyst, Witcher 3 and Fallout 4 for the most part and everything looks fantastic at high resolutions. The card is also super quiet.

If you were interested in the case, it's over here. I like it a lot but like I said in a previous comment, it was given to me but I agree with the finish, it's really good.

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

Oooh! I like the darkness in your soul 😁😁😁 wasabi oil in the eyes is GENIUS

To get close enough to them, we could wear these to fit in 😊

And then once they are down from the wasabi oil, we can tie their hands and legs up with this Sushi washi tape 😁😁😁😈😈😈

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

Patience and practice. Scribe the back of plastic spoons for practice, or any other round plastic objects.

But I do recommend using proper modeling scribing tape like this one instead of Dymo tape. Dymo tape works fine for flat surfaces, but this scribing tape is a lot more flexible and will conform to curved surfaces better. They last quite a while depending on how much you scribe. I bought a roll last year and still haven't run out after 3 MG builds I scribed heavily.

Secondly, if you're using this Tamiya scriber, you might want to change it to something like the Tamiya engraver or something similar. They're much easier to control over a tool like the Tamiya scriber and you can change the blades to suit the thickness you want or need for your kit. Mr. Hobby makes a similar tool that's a bit cheaper I think, and obviously there are BMC chisels which are the top of the line. But there are cheap alternatives out there.

Honestly though, when it comes to precision tools like scribers it might be best to go out and buy the highest quality scribers/chisels you can afford. Buying lower quality tools can actually get you bad panel lines.

It's very simple. Get something like this and then this for the smaller stripe.
You could do it without a clear coat but the clear coat will make it more resistant to pealing/chipping/more permanent. If you do decide to do a clear coat it's not coming off unless you sand the clear coat and your paint off.
Most helmets/bikes come like this from the factory with their vinyl stickers etc placed on and then just clear coated over.

http://imgur.com/a/EMEaU

This is a christmas light I printed as a gift for my Grandma on a Rostock V2 Max.
I used cheap white PLA from bgastore on ebay (link later).
I designed the file in Autodesk Inventor 2017 Student Version and in Meshmixer. I also used Meshmixer to create the custom supports for the model. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1914863

The model was printed on Blue Tape with no glue or bed heat.
Support removal took around 3 hours, I started with the middle, then went around the text and then finished up at the top of the model. I used needle nose pliers and wire cutters I would not recommend printing this unless you have both.

Afterwards I used acrylic paint to paint over the text. The surface was rough if you’re planning on painting this model I would recommend sanding it first.

The print can be kept as a christmas tree ornament or as a light. It’s possible cut a hole in it to fit a large lightbulb in or order a small one off of amazon. Make sure the bulb doesn’t touch the sides of the print as it can melt the plastic.

Cura Settings:
Layer Height: .3mm
Line Width: .5mm
Wall Line Width: 1mm
Top/Bottom Thickness: 2mm
Infil: solid
Print temp : 205
Build Plate: 0
Retraction speed: 50mm/s
Extra Prime amount: .1mm
Minimum Extrusion Distance Window: 6.5mm
Speed: 30mm/s
Wall Speed: 15mm/s
Initial Layer Speed: 8mm/s
Combing mode: all
Z hop when travelling: 2mm
Cooling: fan 100%
No support, the meshmixer supports are enough
Brim: 1mm

Link to plastic:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/391087201228?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D145795696709_324272%2526itemid%253D391087201228%2526targetid%253D265536273303%2526rpc%253D0.08%2526rpc_upld_id%253D91336%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F391087201228%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9005779%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D672333784%2526adgroupid%253D29658622530%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-265536273303%2526gclid%253DCj0KEQiA08rBBRDUn4qproqwzYMBEiQAqpzns6jXyE4PiaoJpcMmUbU6nRO9XAd2FxXUSDttHbQfGFAaAjGt8P8HAQ%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1127005495389&ul_noapp=true
Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-70-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4BB

Well, I don't wanna go overkill with the We Vibe recommendations, as two others on here have done that (I've been wanting to try it too!) So i'll go with a new suggestion.

On my NSFW wishlist, there is a tie, bondage tape and a few different kinds of vibrators. You can get pretty creative with a selection of those items ;P A tie makes a good blind fold, also good for tieing up hands, feet, etc. Plus, you can wear it to work, or your wife can wear it as a hair band or belt lol!

3M VHB tape is the best
VHB stands for Very High Bond, it sticks amazingly well to smooth surfaces like a kwad frame but when you want to remove it you can peel it off pretty easily. It isnt going anywhere when you fly. It is also a little foamy so it provides a little cushion bten the carbon fiber and electronics.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_hQ4jDbV2SB64H

I just got a new bike and felt the same way for a while. After some research I found this: ISC Racers Tape/Helicopter Tape. A number of people online seem to like it.

After getting used to the fact that I will probably bang up my bike a good bit more and I might as well get over it, I decided to buy a little anyway. I'm going to put it on a few spots I worry about i.e. to prevent chainslap and where the bike touches my bike rack. Might as well make a small effort to help the resale value if I ever want to sell it.

FYI helicopter tape is pretty useful for covering up areas where paint can chip from rocks, debris, and chain-slap. It’s the same stuff used to protect phone screens from wear and tear, and apparently helicopter blades. This roll is way cheaper than the made-for stuff.

Entry Level

• Phillips head screwdriver (intonation adjustments)
  
• Hex key that fits your bridge saddles (action adjustments)
  
• Hex wrench that fits your truss rod (neck relief adjustments)
  
• An accurate tuner (not fucking up the above)
  
  Advanced Mode
  
  
• Small ruler with 1/64 accurate readings or a dedicated string action guage (if you want to aim for factory specs with exact measurements rather than just what feels best for you)
  
• Attention to detail
  
  
  Advanced mode + Fretwork
  
  
• Notched straight edge
  
• Some sort of guitar neck rest
  
• Blue painter's tape
  
• Fret file
  
• Fretboard leveling file
  
• Fret dressing file
  
• Sandpaper range from 1000 to 12000 grit
  
• Abrasive cord (for polishing nut slots)
  
  Advanced Mode + Burning the shit out of yourself and getting really mad about tiny things and also not being 100% sure which humbucker wiring diagram applies to the pickup you're installing because the colors don't match what you found on that one chart online and also you might have destroyed the cap on your tone pot
  
  
• Soldering iron

Sweet. I was looking at this, but yours has better reviews. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

Maybe just a brand thing. I'm using the Scotch Blue painters tape: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001EJMS4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't know if Id recommend it though. In my limited experience Its hard to get fine details in the first layer like holes or text to stick unless you rubbing alcohol the tape first, but when you do large surfaces stick too well and you'll have a hell of a time to get them off. I started using this glue stuff that came as a sample pack in a couple of my 3dprintingcanada.com orders but decided it wasn't worth the mess and hassle. Others have had success with hairspray so I'd give that a shot first.

I miss the stock flexible magnetic build tac that comes with the Ender 3 pro, so I ordered a replacement that I'm going to stick on top of the glass. My bed was so warped from factory that I could almost stick a dime in the middle under a straight edge. Hopefully with a magnetic build tac on top of the glass Ill have the best of both worlds. My temps will suffer and it will be a little heavy but I'm willing to experiment.

Try this 3M double-sided tape[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=psdc_228921_t2_B004BN81LC] instead of the regular electric tape. Its more flexible and strong. Just wrap up the whole cable with this and you'd be happy for couple of years.

Definitely tape the fretboard off with painter's tape! It's specifically designed to seal/stick well and release cleanly/easily. Aside from using it to tape off guitar necks, as a former roller derby ref we used it to tape down tracks on top of expensive roller skating rinks floors. Always came up easily!

A regular one might, not sure, but you can always get something like this if you want to be extra safe.

I've been using Nitto Tape and that stuff is pretty amazing.

Did you save it, or is it gone? It can be reattached if not lost or damaged. Get some of this stuff to replace the original tape.

Ah, it looks like that case came with Canadian purchases only. Best Buy's CA website won't ship to me, and and my local site doesn't carry the case.

At any rate, you can purchase the 3M adhesive strips separately.

http://i.imgur.com/eYWjcZE.jpg

While this can't fix the existing scratches, if you are serious about protecting your frame then consider applying some helicopter/racer tape to the most vulnerable areas.

It's basically a thick version of protective films they use on electronic screens. UV stable and can take a beating. Bonus is that it peels off without hassle or marks. A lot of the guys in my area use it to protect their carbon frames. Just clean the application area well with alcohol before putting the tape on.

http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU

Nitto Permacel P-02
There is no substitute. Thin, rock solid holding requiring very little tape, and easy release with no clean-up. Pricey though. but awesome.

https://www.amazon.com/Nitto-Permacel-Double-Coated-Kraft/dp/B000QDL9GK/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1492621121&sr=1-1&keywords=nitto+tape

This stuff is the best for sharp crisp lines, i use it for automotive graphics as well as my models.

Sorry Reddit didn't show me any notifications, just came across this on my feed (mobile... ffs)
As the other reply says though, Amazon for the win! Got it on Amazon Canada, Just looked for the widest I could find

Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape, Multi-Surface, 2.83-Inch by 60-Yard https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001EJMS4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-.fWAbJ8PXT9M

I use double-sided tape, like [this one](3M Scotch RP25 VHB Tape: 1/2 in. x 15 ft. (Grey) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0zBEAbQDWXD9D). I usually put 4 pieces on, one over each screw that secured around the processor. Holds really well. This is what most of the modders I follow use.

>... I just reenter it and it stays.

Have you tried using some 3M double sided tape on the sides to improve adhesion? Just those three small strips hold that thing down like an anchor.

You could use double sided tape like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1517867355&sr=1-3&keywords=3m+vhb

The con is that you might not be able to remove it so easily. This stuff is pretty extreme.

I'm using this tape to cover the back for now, and it is a lot grippier than the bare aluminum, the back glass, or even my plastic screen protector. If they use a similar material it should have some grip. "Self-Healing, flexible, tough, military-grade thermoplastic urethane, designed to absorb impact" sounds grippy. Good point about peeling. Maybe clear adhesive film for the back plus a bumper case would be a good combo.

I have Thule Atmos X3 case on my old phone, and it's awesome. It's thin and unobtrusive (adds maybe 2-3mm thickness), but it protected that phone every time I dropped it. It's made of high quality co-molded materials with a subtle design and variety of textures. Too bad they seem to have given up on Android phones.

This stuff, aka painter's tape, for those that don't wanna click.

Edit to add - vinegar also helps remove rust, and if you're afraid steel wool will be too abrasive, use aluminum foil as your scrubber. Foil and vinegar is a long-standing rust removal tool, but use only tiny amounts of vinegar, you don't want it to drip down along the side of the pole inside the pickup.

Add'l edit to add - anything that removes the rust is going to make it go somewhere - I read that having a vacuum running while you do it is a good precaution to keep the tiny rusty bits being removed from getting everywhere.

This is the exact thing I got.

Kind of pricey but it seems like the roll will last for every bike I ever own.

I use ISC Racers Tape.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000TPC7HU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_595SCbRDHK3ZP

Not just water, but slightly soapy water. It breaks the surface tension on the water allowing it to completely cover the adhesive so you can easily position it on the frame. Lots of soapy water. You can't use too much. Be careful not to get water on the backing paper before peeling off the tape. It has a tendency to pull apart and stick to the tape if you get it wet. If your hands are wet with soapy water you can handle the adhesive side without leaving fingerprints. I use a dish towel to squeegee and dry around the edges. It won't start to stick well until it squeegees out and dries. If it slips when your squeegeeing splash more soapy water on it and have another go at it.

I just wrapped a new steel hardtail in 1", 2", and 4" tape because it's gonna take a thrashing.

I use this tape which is just 2 inch wide blue masking tape. I got it at Target but they sell it a lot of places. I don't know if there's a better kind, that's just what I had on hand... how wide is the stuff you use?

It's a little pricey, but I've heard good things about helicopter tape:
LINK

https://www.amazon.com/3M-ScotchBlue-Painters-Tape-Multi-Surfaces/dp/B00004Z4BB?th=1

This stuff is an absolute godsend for dorm walls

Or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU if you don't like black ;-)

I'd also recommend taping the entire bike with it anyway because paint chips even more quickly when you bikepack haha. (Or at least, the down tube and the chainstays in addition to where the bags touch the frame)

You can get clear 'helicopter' tape from Amazon for a reasonable price to replace that, and maybe add some to the underside of your downtube, too, if it doesn't already have it.
As an example (I've never used this - I'm not specifically recommending this brand):
https://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racers-Tape-HT2128-Transparent/dp/B000TPC7HU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

I’ve used this multiple times with multiple women and had no issues. It even has multiple uses if you’re creative. Great product, I almost always keep some handy.

Black 15m No Glue Electrostatic Adsorption Sex Bondage Adhesive Tape BDSM Adu... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U12TM7E?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Also, to add to what jacobcanflyy says, if you don't want to go for bondage tape, a good alternative is the PTFE, which is teflon tape, or plumbers tape. you can get it for insanely cheap at any hardware store.

pic reference. Don't get it from amazon though, they stiff you on the shipping.

Looks like standard apartment wall. Washi tape should be fine (as long as you don't keep it up for like... a year or something). You can also try these removable double-sided tape

I got this - is good?

3M VHB tape. This stuff will stick to anything and will go down to sub zero temps. Make sure everything is dry when applying and prep all the surfaces that the VHB tape sticks to with 3M 94 tape primer.

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https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549918879&sr=8-4&keywords=3M+VHB+tape

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https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-02oz-Vinyl/dp/B005LDKTV6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1549916087&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3M+94+primer&psc=1

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Not OP, but it looks like the same thing I use

I finally got around to fixing the cloudy lenses on my 2001 VW Passat.

http://imgur.com/a/HvVe9

I used:

• 3M headlight restoration kit
  
• 3M Green Masking Tape
  
• DeWalt corded power drill
  
• Microfiber cloth
  
  A couple notes for anyone considering doing the same:
  
  
• Definitely use at least two layers of tape anywhere the sanding disk might make contact with the body. Keep a close eye on the tape to make sure you're not wearing through. The shape of your headlights and front-end may make it easier or harder to avoid hitting the masked areas. Remember: tape: $7/roll, fixing a spot that you sanded through on your bumper: more than $7
  
• My drill had a max RPM of 2600, directions call for a max of 1600 RPM, so I was careful to avoid going "full throttle". Going too fast can cause things to get too hot when sanding, and cause more harm than good.
  
• Don't be stingy with your sanding disks. You'll probably have extra, but making a couple extra passes is much better than a couple too few, because if you don't take off enough material at any stage, it will be difficult to compensate later.

Well, I ordered 3 small traschcans, a shower curtain, two types of plungers, a toilet brush, and some plumber's tape so I can install my showerhead

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_mI8CZO4gVAsfR

That stuff works wonders. I used 4 strips and it is up there haha.

3M RP25/GRY055 Scotch RP25 VHB Tape: 1/2" x 15 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KZmnDb1NGC7ZH
I bought this. It worked real good.

When I want to cut my flash I just put a little colored masking tape over it. Get good quality though, otherwise you may end up with the glue sticking to the camera. Basically this or this.

I had a problem with the original PS tape as well, it stuck for about 20 mins before it came off. I work in an automotive test lab and we use 3M’s VHB double sided tape for sticking instrumentation and other stuff inside and out side of cars. It sticks even inside of hot cars and outside in cold weather. This is what I use on my pop socket and leather case. Just use an alcohol wipe to clean the surfaces.

ScotchBlue Original Multi-Surface Painter’s Tape, .70 inch x 60 yard, 2090, 1 Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_11y6CbB0P2K7S

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

• Scotch Blue Tape
  
• Elmers Stick Glue
  
• Digitial Caliper
  
• Mirco Cutter
  
• Palette Knifes
  
• Nozzle cleaning kit
  
• 2 rolls of Hatchbox 1.75mm PLA, green and grey
  
  I have a set of exacto knives and a screw bit set. Is there anything else im missing?

There are lots of different strength but any hardware store should have what you need

Ask for 3M VHB double-sided tape # 4905 or 4910 or Black 5952.

You can also get them online such as this: https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Double-sided-Conformable-Acrylic-Replacement/dp/B01863G5Q0/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1479457639&sr=8-17-spons&keywords=3M+VHB+tape+squares&psc=1

It's on Amazon for 11 bucks. It's 2.83" x 60 yards.
https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-2-83-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B001EJMS4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484372268&sr=8-1&keywords=wide+painters+tape

Amazon, most hardware or automotive stores would have some variant. It goes by a bunch of different names. This is one example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/

Just finished taping up my new bike about 2 hours ago.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used that stuff. Never really bothered before other than the chain stay to protect it from chain slap but new bike is carbon and pricey. It went on easy using the soapy water method. Only real issue I have is it is glossy and the frame is matte so it is fairly obvious. I also used some 3m 2228 mastic tape in areas it would be a pita to use the other stuff and more likely to take heavy hits.

Look for 3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CgH3CbR1PN0F6

Its exactly what you want.

you can use helicopter tape/racers tape to prevent that.

It appears to be painter's tape which doesn't leave a residue.

Tape that small.

https://www.amazon.com/ScotchBlue-Painters-Multi-Use-70-Inch-60-Yard/dp/B00004Z4BB

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Vinyl-Tape-471-PN6404/dp/B005EB72WY

here ya go

It is 3M double sided mounting tape. Specifically, either this: Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDlGDbQE76Q91

Or

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qElGDbGTXMETR

FTFY:

It is 3M double sided mounting tape. Specifically, either this: Scotch Extreme Mounting Tape, 1-inch X 400-inches, Black, 1-Roll (414-LONGDC) - 414-LONG/DC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FUEN2GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDlGDbQE76Q91

Or

3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 4.6 meters. (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BU7038A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qElGDbGTXMETR

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This is the stuff I use:

http://www.amazon.com/ISC-Racerstape-com-Paint-surface-guard/dp/B000TPC7HU?

Try the name brand. It worked for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4DU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01863G5Q0

This is the same tape but you get twice as much material for $2 more

If you use 3M's VHB tape, it has an rating for 90° C during use. It's the same tape used for putting up some road signs. It's also the same adhesive use on the Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener (Heavy Duty Velcro) to attach electronic toll collection tags to car windshields.

http://www.amazon.com/Ampro-A1441-PTFE-2-Inch-260-Inch/dp/B003YL4CJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341637802&sr=8-1&keywords=ptfe+tape

You can find the black Mazda badges here and here.

Search for "3M VHB Black". You can get a roll and cut it to size.

Example https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/

This is more than you'd need, but its general purpose adhesive that will come in handy for other purposes. This is the same adhesive used on gopros mounts.

If you don't wanna spend so much, get this and trim it a bit. https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Pads-Gopro-Helmet-Mount/dp/B00EFTP2YQ/

3m VHB 5952 is what you want

Unfortunately everything I find comes on rolls with far more than I know what to do with. On the plus side you shouldn't run out any time soon.

I used this to mount my CF spoiler on my vehicle. Outdoors in hot/cold weather, 120+MPH speeds. This shit sticks.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-RP25-VHB-Tape/dp/B00WX1P0GS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469217575&sr=8-2&keywords=vhb+tape

Actually all I ever used is this:

3M ScotchBlue 2090-2A Ruban Adhésif de Masquage Peinture 48mm x 55 m https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B00004Z4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YA8YDbX87P7MH

It’s cheaper, durable, you can do whatever masking with it and cut it to shapes, never had any issue whatsoever with deteriorating paint underneath.

https://i.imgur.com/CT68Clh.jpg

Also i don’t have to bother maintaining stock of vmultiple rolls of varying width. Give it a try you won’t be disappointed

>duct-tape or similar items at the hardware store.

No! It'll DESTROY the surface. Use this stuff