I wanted to share my opinion on my first Franken-Quest setup.

I used:

- Gorilla tape - had some laying around

- Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=deluxe+audio+strap&qid=1568603404&s=gateway&sr=8-1

- Anker Powercore 10000 battery https://www.anker.com/products/variant/PowerCore-10000/A1263011

- Anker PowerPort Elite charger https://www.anker.com/products/variant/powerport-elite-2/A2023111

- USB cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ8RA3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This setup has been AWESOME! It's kind of like wearing a VR helmet now. I first tried the Vive strap without the battery for counter weight. I thought, how could everyone say this is more comfortable and worth the $100?

Then I attached the battery and the weight was distributed MUCH better. That's the key to this setup, balancing the weight of that front heavy beast, while remaining comfortable for extended periods of play, like 8 hours, give or take. I haven't really kept accurate track of time, but I'm pretty confident this setup extends the playtime to around 8 hours, and comfortably.

I've found that the weight is now more evenly distributed along the top strap and is held in place by the, excellently designed, back piece that very comfortably cups the back of my head.

The headphones sound amazing IMO. BUT that's only when applying extra pressure against my ears. For my ears, the phones rest comfortably, but I would prefer more pressure for that true surround with bass. If anyone has any suggestions please share. And if I come up with something, I'll update the post.'

My favorite thing to do with the Quest is play outside during overcast days or towards the evening when the sun is low. It feels so much more freeing IMO. I look forward to Mincraft once my GPU comes. That was always my favorite experience on the DK1 on. That is still the best VR game IMO. Although I wish there was still the Metacraft Server, I miss that place. I spent SO MUCH time in there building on my own land, going on quests, attending live broadcasts, the Nether quest... Such great memories.

That's what I'm most looking forward to again I think. A custom Minecraft VR server where we can all have our own land, help build cities, go on adventures, hang out... Anyone know what Wormslayers up to lately? Best Mod ever!

Other thoughts:

I'll probably switch the tape battery to Velcro for faster removal when wanting to use for charging something else, road trip or whatever.

I WISH THE UNITY QUEST DEVELOPMENT WORKFLOW WAS THE SAME AS THE RIFT OR VIVE! I got all setup and then learned that I would have to build each time in order to test out any changes :O That's insanity. It's unfortunate that Facebook/Oculus didn't release with this in place. I hope this is addressed sooner than later, because I'm all about freely jumping in and out Realtime instead of having to build every time I want to assess changes.

TLDR: This simple Quest setup gives the best VR experience I've had to date. (DK1, DK2, Gear VR, Rift, Quest, Vive, Odyssey) I would now recommend the Quest to anyone who wants an amazing !untethered! VR experience. But I would not recommend the Quest without this Mod. Mobile, high quality, comfortable and 8 hours of play for around $600 SWEET!

PART TWO -- wrote this before seeing your VIVE arrives... basically tomorrow

-=- recommended accessories -=-
get the Deluxe Audio Strap. this is a MUST HAVE.

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=htc+vive+deluxe+audio+strap&qid=1555922928&s=videogames&sr=1-1


i don't consider this an accessory...this is just absolutely CRUCIAL. installation took me ~15-20 minutes after watching a youtube video on how to install as the instructions that ship with it are ...lacking. there's a video of a german guy who shows you have to install it easily.... this strap adds not only great sounding, adjustable and comfortable headphones but (more importantly) will secure the HMD in a way that makes the default strap seem laughable. this deluxe strap allows more comfortable wear of the HMD, better cord management and eliminates the need for supplying your own audio (be it earbuds or headphones) while i ordered all of these "accessories" and received them before my VIVE, i decided to try the original / shipped strap before installing the "deluxe" and words can't describe the difference in fit, comfort, and how great the audio from the adjustable integrated earphones sound. the headphones are able to "snap" in an upright position when you are either removing /storing the HMD or just need to lift one up to hear something someone is trying to tell you...


-=-2nd suggestion for "accessories"-=-


probably most important second only to the deluxe audio strap.... get these tripods. you don't want to mount your lighthouses to your wall... with these tripods you are able to place your lighthouses without drilling/mounting. it is way worth the investment as the stands are very secure, adjustable and the lighthouses screw directly into them. no other parts needed, just these two stands... you'll realize that you might have to fine-tune/tweak the placement of the lighthouses slightly, and with these stands you are able to make adjustments (not only in placement but with the ball/swivel you are able to change the angle/pitch etc.) which you couldn't do if you mounted them.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6FDKZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-=-honorable mention -- not necessary but recommended...-=-

when i purchased my vive i made sure to get a nice stand to set the HMD/controllers on... (...i went a bit overboard with other accessories and for brevity i'll only mention two more accessories that i think you should pick up) here's the HMD/controller stand i purchased for when either storing the vive or to set it on while taking breaks/cooling off... . it isn't an absolute necessity but it gives it a nice place to rest the HMD/controllers during breaks between play (you will sweat a lot even in a cold room, i know i'm out of shape but with titles like sairento, sprint vector, space pirate etcetc i take breaks just to let my face breathe and cool off.) this beats just setting the HMD on the ground or on a nearby table which could easily fall off.... your call, but -- again, protect your investment!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1N5GP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-

"Skywin VR cable management system"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0733NN7G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-- these are simply pullies that attach to your ceiling, allowing the cable to be out of the way of the ground... personal preference here but i find these very useful (especially with titles where i'm moving around a lot... sairento, gorn, QuiVR etc) ... protip: i went to walmart etc, purchased -several- packs of 3M "Command" large picture and frame hanging strips 16lb "large picture hanging strips" and have them all over my ceiling at different strategic places (depending on if i'm playing a title that requires my entire room i.e having to move my bed for the max. play area, or if i'm playing a title that requires only the smallest room setup or even for sitting) so using the 3M strips instead of the adhesive that comes with the pullies in the kit, i'm able to switch around the location of the pullies to suit each above situation...also, they remove without damaging your ceiling... if you have any questions on this just message me and i'd be happy to elaborate.
-=-
last accessory suggestion -- after watching videos of people punching holes in their walls etc. i decided to grab these protective frames which have saved my walls and possible harm to my controllers when demoing my vive to friends (even though when demoing i always have chaperone on "beginner", floor bounds on etc) it -never- fails that they will try to throw a grenade and hit my ceiling, swing a punch while playing Gorn and instead of my vive controller slamming into the wall, the cage around the circular top part absorbs the impact and deflects/redistributes the force from one point of contact to several. just throwing this out there, just in case you or someone you are showing it to will be inadvertently throwing your controller into your wall

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-
final thoughts/closing: hmm. well, i think i said a LOT here and hope that your experience with installation is pleasant. again, let us all know how your first experience went and feel free to ask any questions.


welcome to the subreddit, welcome to the VIVE family and congrats on embarking on this journey together with us


--kyle

Aw man, I wish titles could be edited, I didn't even see that it autocorrected until you said something. I guess that's what I get for posting from mobile!

I saw both of those cases but wasn't overly enthused. I think I would lean more toward the blue one but was hoping for something a little more...subdued in color. I think I prefer the contoured and textured hard cases with the silicone dots like on UAG cases, and I'm pretty disappointed in the lack of options for this one, though I understand why this is the case.

I love this tablet overall. I've had several android tabs and this one is probably the best one I have had and the best suited for my purposes. I primarily use it for streaming while on the go, with the occasional web browsing session or light gaming (Hitman GO and such). I really like the speakers, which are the best I've heard on a tablet thus far, though I would prefer they were front facing.

I also wish it used USB type C for charging and data transfer, as I've gotten spoiled using that on my Google Pixel phone. the speed is a huge drop compared to my phone.

I have a laptop I use for more hardcore gaming if I'm staying somewhere other than home, though the M3 is great for on the go entertainment. I have a 2TB external HDD that I have filled with movies and shows, so it's great to have a 256GB microSD that's been loaded up for the times that I don't have internet access.

As you mentioned, I have been pretty disappointed by the lack of accessories for the M3. I have one of those small bluetooth keyboards with a trackpad that I use for typing with my thumbs. It isn't the greatest but I find I do better with it than with the on-screen keyboard. Plus using the trackpad for a mouse is handy for when I'm feeling to lazy to lift my hand and use my finger to select something, lol. In case you're interested, maybe check it out!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Overall I'd say it's a great tablet, especially for my needs. The battery is great, the speed is impressive, the sound is good, and the screen is pretty awesome. I'm not entirely sold on Huawei's approach to home/back/multitasking buttons, but it was an easy adjustment to make.

This is quite a long post but you probably should read it all. I also searched for the best possible sound on the PS4 for the cheapest price and tried almost everything.

Astro Headsets are NOT top notch. They are just OK. They have extremely elevated bass that drowns out the footsteps and clarity.

Razer again are completely overpriced and sound worse than 30 dollar headsets.

Sony Gold Wireless is decent and wireless which is also nice. But they sound a little bit muddy compared to the HyperX Cloud II. But sound better than the Astro's.

I have every headset listed except the Razer Kraken 7.1 but I do have the Razer Megalodon which was absolutely horrible and I had so many issues with it and the firmware updates fixed nothing and the sound from the headphones transmitted over the mic even when isolated so it was a wiring issue. I just would shy away from Razer at this point. I hear too many bad things about them all the time with build quality issues. Although I do think they look really cool.

For PS4 in my experience all USB sound cards sound terrible. I have tried the Syba, the Sony Silver USB Adapter, and the Logitech G430 USB sound card.

If you don't want to think about anything, buy these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Astro-A40-Gaming-MixAmp-Pro-With-All-Cables-for-Ps3-Ps4-Xbox-Window-and-Mac-/142172429854

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-GSP-Gaming-Headset-507079/dp/B01KV3BB0S/

This right here will probably be the best setup available for the cheapest price. The HyperX Cloud II could be substituted for the GSP 300 but HyperX Cloud II's do sound slightly less clear than Sennheiser. These GSP 300's look like a refresh of the PC 350 SE but with reduced ohms but I currently do not have the GSP 300 so can't tell you if it sounds different than the PC 350 SE but if it sounds like it, it will be great for gaming in every way.

Here are further explanations for why you should get those two.

The new MixAmp Pro TR has horrible metallic surround sound.

Example here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtNF1i2eSwg

It really does sound horrible so I returned it and got the MixAmp Pro 2013 edition from eBay and can tell you that it sounds absolutely fantastic. And much better than any of the USB stuff. Because of the Digital Optical connection. It is very important that if you go this route that you set up the MixAmp Pro 2013 correctly. You have to make sure that in the PS4 settings that the output to headphones setting is set to CHAT ONLY or you will not get the surround sound features through optical. You will get the standard stereo USB sound card of the MixAmp Pro 2013 instead of the optical which sounds much better than the other options.

The MixAmp also really is an amp. It pushes my PC 350 SE 150 ohms perfectly. The other USB adapters do NOT amp and I can not get my PC 350 SE's loud enough through controller or any USB adapter. So the MixAmp pro does definitely amp. But I should mention any headset above 150 ohms or lower sensitivity would probably not work with the MixAmp that well or it would be really low volume.

Also Sennheiser is extremely well respected for their sound and I own the PC 350 SE (And the G4ME One) and can tell you that it has the best sound of any gaming headset out there except maybe the ATH-ADG1X but those are 300 dollars.

Also, I can confirm that the USB adapter that comes with the HyperX Cloud II does not support surround sound on PS4. No USB devices support surround sound on PS4 unless you buy it straight from Sony. The Sony Golds and Sony Silver USB adapter are the only two devices that support USB surround sound that I know of. And it is not that great compared to what the MixAmp Pro 2013 offers.

Now for the part where I will tell you that if you want the audiophile solution, read further.

Most gaming headsets really do suck compared to a pair of audiophile headphones and an add on mic.

So in this area I will recommend this solution.

For audiophile experience you are going to want to get these SHP 9500's:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826138190
And this add on mic (Uni Directional with Mute):
https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-ModMic-Attachable-Microphone/dp/B00R98JVVU?th=1

I don't recommend that V-Moda BoomPro even though it works perfectly with the SHP 9500's. It picks up everything in the room and since PS4 does not offer a push to talk feature I would stay away from it. It would be perfect for PC gaming though with a Push-to-Talk button.

If you get this with the MixAmp you are going to have the absolute best sound quality with the best mic quality for that price. No doubts whatsoever.

If money is really not an issue. I recommend the Sennheiser HD 598's with the ModMic and the SoundBlaster X7 with the Bluetooth USB adapter for chat. It does not work with Xbox One for chat only optical.

And if money is not an issue AT ALL then I recommend the Sennheiser HD 600 with the ModMic and the SoundBlaster X7 and the MixAmp Pro 2013 so you can put that into the X7 and use the line in and it's audio mixing capabilities so you can switch between SBX and Dolby Headphone with the MixAmp and choose the one you like the best.

I hope this helps you make a decision. I own most of the stuff mentioned and this is all from personal experience. But you should also note that sound is highly subjective so you may just have to purchase this stuff from Amazon so you can test all of it and send it back if it doesn't meet your needs or expectations.

I assume the wheel you have is a Driving Force GT. If it is, that's a pretty good wheel, and if you're okay with the gear-driven force feedback and the shitty pedals, you should be good for now. The next step up I would recommend the T300 Alcantara bundle, which is the best "bang for your buck" deal on the market currently.


For games, I have pretty much every sim on the market right now, barring RRRE and more niche stuff like those karting sims and whatnot. I switch between them several times a day, which doesn't really feel weird at all, since I have my wheel settings how I like them in each game.


If you're looking for competitive racing your 4 best options are easily iRacing, rFactor 2, Automobilista (my favourite all-round sim btw, get it regardless!), and rFactor. iRacing has already been talked about in this thread, but I've been getting back into it recently, and it's seriously the best on the market for competitive online racing. rFactor 2 is the best sim for leagues right now, since it's arguably the most realistic sim, and has the best support for mods online. Automobilista's not great for pick-up races, but I race in a GT3 league and I'm loving it. And rFactor has a ton of leagues for all sorts of cars still going strong, if you don't mind outdated graphics.
***

Since you asked someone else, I'll describe to you what I think about the "pick-up" nature of iRacing vs running a league.

Pick-up races: If you're in iRacing, most series run races every couple hours, which means you can race pretty much any time. Participation varies per series, but most series have healthy attendance most hours of the day. You don't get to know people quite as well, although if you race regularly in a series, you'll get to know some people eventually. I remember once, I joined a C Class race (NASCAR Trucks) with open setups, and there were like 10 guys in the race who knew eachother well, inside jokes and all.

Leagues: Leagues feel more like a real life racing series. You get to know your competitors; their personalities, abilities, and weaknesses*. Knowing your competitors well not only adds to the overall atmosphere of the series, since each race is important for your series standings, but allows for much more interesting races, since racers often play off of eachother's weaknesses. If you find a league that appeals to you, definitely give it a shot.

Just look around on Amazon and read some reviews. There are so many affordable mechanical keyboards these days and with a budget of $60 you have lots of options if you choose to go mechanical. Here are some good mechanical options/brands:

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1505072205&sr=8-9&keywords=red+dragon+keyboard
Red Dragon is rising star in peripheral market, they are geared towards wallet conscious consumers, but offer some good products.

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Blackwidow-Ultimate-2016-Refurbished/dp/B01LXOPFWP/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1505072792&sr=8-8&keywords=razer+keyboards
Here is a refurbished Black Widow Ultimate from Razer, which as you probably know is a renowned reputable brand. This offers green back lighting like you requested and is right at the $60 mark.

https://www.amazon.com/Cougar-Attack-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01938BWZG/ref=sr_1_28?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505073256&sr=1-28&keywords=CHERRY+MX+keyboard
This keyboard lacks green or rgb lighting, but does offer Cherry MX switches in either blue, red, or brown. Cherry MX switches are German made mechanical switches and are generally regarded as the best switches you can get. I personally own a Corsair K65 RGB (the oringal, not the lux) with Cherry MX Reds and its fantastic, but at $170 bucks its out of your price range and the price has become inflated anyway.

If you really value led lighting non mechanical keyboards are the best way to get your RGB fix. While not as fast or in my opinion as nice to type on there are many wonderful options in the way of membrane keyboards.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-K55-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01M4LIKLI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505073832&sr=1-3&keywords=RGB+keyboard
If you don't want to go mechanical this Corsair 55 is a great alternative. This does not offer per key back-lighting, but has some great lighting effects that beat out most mechanical keyboards in this price range. By the way, this keyboard is only $50.

There you have it my super long comment regarding keyboards. As I said before, spend some time on Amazon researching keyboards in more detail, but the ones I listed are in my opinion some of the best options in your price range.

Samsung HMD Odyssey+ - $355.00 new on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019

Pros:

• Low cost of entry. This headset and controller bundle is regularly on sale for $299.99 new, and can be had for as low as $250-270 refurbished.
  
• Uses the halo mounting method, ideal for larger heads and long-term comfort.
  
• 1440x1600 resolution per eye, equivalent to the HTC Vive Pro.
  
• Superior anti-"screen door effect" filtering gives arguably the second-best overall image clarity on the VR market behind the HP Reverb.
  
• Uses OLED panels, which provide superior color range and depth.
  
• 90 Hz screen refresh rate provides smooth head tracking, so most people with motion sickness won't have problems.
  
• The spacing between the lenses can be adjusted for individuals with interpupillary distance (IPD) outside of the average range, making it more accessible.
  
• Included headphones provide good audio quality.
  
• Extremely easy setup, only two cables and no tracking sensors.
  
• Can be used in conjunction with SteamVR tracking solutions that support the HTC Vive wands or Valve Index controllers, providing an upgrade path if you're unsatisfied with the Windows controllers and don't want to pay for a whole new VR set.
  
• Windows Mixed Reality ecosystem allows for some optimized games to be played on a much wider range of hardware. Space Pirate Trainer, for example, is supported at a 60 Hz refresh rate on an Intel HD 620 integrated graphics chip if purchased through the Windows Store.
  
  Neutral:
  
  
• 110° vertical field of view.
  
• Uses inside-out tracking.
  
• Controllers require user-replaceable AA batteries.
  
• Customer support is adequate, but the serial numbers for Windows Mixed Reality HMDs can't be registered on Samsung's website. All service requests must be handled by phone.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• Only uses two forward-facing cameras for controller tracking. This can have issues when you have to reach back over your shoulders for more than two seconds.
  
• Traditional low cost Ni-MH rechargeable AAs don't output a high enough voltage to consistently power the controllers. Traditional disposable AAs or more expensive Lithium rechargeable AAs are necessary.
  
• Does not support finger tracking, controllers are strictly wand-style input.
  
• While compatible with SteamVR, not every SteamVR title supports the Windows Mixed Reality controllers. If support isn't stated outright on the game's store page, you will very likely have to do some controller configuration tweaks.
  
• No driver support for Linux users.
  
  

  Oculus Rift S - $399.00 new on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019
  

  
  Pros:
  
  

• Low cost of entry. This headset and controller bundle is $399.99 new at all retailers. While refurbished SKUs are scarce, they will likely be available over the next few months, and the sale price for new units will likely be discounted later in the year for seasonal sales.
  
• Uses the halo mounting method, ideal for larger heads and long-term comfort.
  
• Uses six cameras for controller tracking, which supports a greater range of motion than the Windows Mixed Reality headsets.
  
• Supports finger tracking with Oculus Touch.
  
• Oculus ecosystem support with exclusive software.
  
• Extremely easy setup, only two cables and no tracking sensors.
  
• Universal SteamVR controller compatibility.
  
• Superior customer service experience compared to most of its competition.
  
  Neutral:
  
  
• 110° vertical field of view.
  
• Uses inside-out tracking.
  
• Controllers feature built-in lithium-ion rechargeable batteries.
  
• "Screen door effect" filtering isn't as good as its competition in this price bracket, though still better than most.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• 1280x1440 resolution per eye is inferior to its competition in this price bracket.
  
• Uses LCD panels, which provide a more flat range of color compared to OLED.
  
• 80 Hz screen refresh rate is still relatively smooth, though people more sensitive to motion sickness may have problems with it.
  
• The spacing between lenses cannot be adjusted, so individuals with interpupillary distance (IPD) outside of the average range will not be able to use the Rift S.
  
• Included headphones provide a poor audio experience, the bass is especially weak.
  
• Incompatible with other controller tracking solutions.
  
• No driver support for Linux users.
  
  

  HTC Vive - $480.41 on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019
  

  
  Pros:
  
  

• Uses OLED panels, which provide superior color range and depth.
  
• 90 Hz screen refresh rate provides smooth head tracking, so most people with motion sickness won't have problems.
  
• The spacing between the lenses can be adjusted for individuals with interpupillary distance (IPD) outside of the average range, making it more accessible.
  
• Universal SteamVR controller compatibility.
  
• "Lighthouse" tracking provides the best range of motion for controllers out of any VR controller tracking solution currently available.
  
• Can be used in conjunction with SteamVR tracking solutions that support the Valve Index controllers, providing an upgrade path if you're unsatisfied with the HTC Vive wand controllers and don't want to pay for a whole new VR set.
  
• Driver support for Linux users.
  
  Neutral:
  
  
• 110° vertical field of view.
  
• Controllers feature built-in lithium-ion rechargeable batteries.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• High cost of entry. This is especially noticeable given that superior competitors have emerged at a lower cost since the HTC Vive's original release back in 2016.
  
• Velcro strap-based head mounting solution is more uncomfortable than the competition.
  
• 1080x1200 resolution per eye, the worst in its price bracket.
  
• "Screen door effect" is very noticeable when looking at the panels for extended periods.
  
• No included audio solution. You must either use your own headphones or purchase the Deluxe Audio Strap separately for $99.99 new.
  
• Does not support finger tracking, controllers are strictly wand-style input.
  
• More involved setup process than its competition. Six cables and a bridge must be connected between the PC and the HMD, and two Lighthouses must be plugged in and secured above head level in two different locations across a room diagonally for optimal coverage.
  
• Infamously bad customer service that regularly breaks warranty law for EU customers and often charges for repairs for unrelated issues or problems that should be covered under warranty for worldwide customers.

Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.

For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:

• Any of the T300 + T3PA bundles, for example the T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition - Great wheel, best entry level wheel by far. With decent pedals, optional brake mod included that, imo, improves the feel a lot. Clutch included.
  
  
• TH8A shifter - Fairly cheap, all things considered,
  
  
• Simetik K2 cockpit - Very sturdy and customizable for its price, and also doesn't have that annoying bar down the middle that basically inhibits you from heel-and-toe downshifting that most of the other cheap rigs have.
  
  All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.
  
  The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.

I have recommended this to many people, and I honestly think it is the best set up on the market right now: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522886090&sr=8-3&keywords=thrustmaster+t16000m

I see some people saying to get World Traffic. I think you would have a better time doing something like VATSIM than using World Traffic.

Planes I would recommend:

Flight Factor A320 - Pricey, but it pays you can see the high quality you are paying for. In my opinion, it is the best plane on the market in any flight sim.

Flight Factor 757 Extended - Another one of my favorites. I enjoy having the passenger and cargo variants, I am super into flying cargo runs.

Few others things, other than planes:

If you fly in the US, KSLC by ShortFinal is an amazing payware scenery. ShortFinal also known as MisterX on the forums, is, in my opinion, the best scenery maker in X-Plane.

Sometimes the best things for this game are free. If you have the storage space, and you think your game can handle it, download Ortho4XP and get some ortho scenery.

If I think of anything else I will add another comment

Kiwi straps suck. Mamut Grips are best for big hands, but are good. AMVR are the best grips. I own both grips. I threw the kiwi things in the garbage.

The silicon interface depends on the person. It doesn't sandpaper your face like the stock one, and feels nice and cool for the first 5 minutes, but it feels awful once it gets sweaty - imagine a wet rubber wedgie on your face. I currently have the VRCover 'facial interface set' with the 'comfort' pad that is pleather. It isn't perfect, but its the best I have found.

I hear some good things about the Studioform strap, but it looks hot and one more thing to mess with. I went went with the Vive Deluxe Audio Strap, but that costs money. I ripped the headphones out of it, so I just have stock audio. I love the quick-adjust thing on the DAS like a hard hat - makes switching people so much faster and better.

Then there is the cable. I don't do the Oculus Link, but even so I have kids and I have heard of people ruining the cable charge port on the Quest yanking on it. I got one of those magnetic USB adapters to reduce the risk of port damage.

All of the goodies need to fit in a case, and I love this thing - its super sturdy and fits it all without being too big.

Then if you want to play in the dark you need a good IR light so it is dark for your wife to sleep but the Quest can still see.

If you're looking for a tactile switch then MX Brown isn't particularly tactile but you may like it, it's good to try a variety of different switches as well, so perhaps try getting a switch tester. However if you just want to get straight into getting a board, here a few options:

• the Magicforce68 has been a pretty good option for some time at £30 with Outemu Brown switches (Cherry MX clones)
  Link
  
  
• There's also the DREVO Gramr 84 with a similar layout, which I prefer to the Magicforce68 Link
  
  
• RK61 is another one available on Amazon, it's a 60% board so may take some getting used to coming from a full size board Link
  
  
• Aerocool TK50 is a full size board with MX brown clones Link
  
  It might also be a good idea trying to get a board with hotswappable switches, so that you can buy new switches in the future to swap in. There are also some good tactile vintage boards you can get, however prices for these may vary - Chyrosran22 on YouTube has a lot of videos about some really good vintage boards and does many overviews of different switches.
  
  Hope you're able to find a good board for a good price! - Just PM me if you wanna talk more.

There are really only three reasons to build a stick, and short-term cost isn't one of them:

1. Build quality. A custom stick can use an all-metal case or even wood, both of which tend to be more durable than plastics found in many popular commercial sticks.
   
   
2. Parts. Custom sticks are generally very easy to modify, all of the hardware and PCBs can be replaced easily. Couple this with a good case and it's not uncommon for your arcade stick to last multiple generations of consoles, with just a PCB upgrade. Customs sticks allow you to use the hardware you prefer, the layout you prefer, and you can find PCBs that work on more systems than are usually available in retail sticks.
   
   
3. It's your own. You can not only customize the art, but the look of the stick itself. The best custom sticks are amazing pieces of art in their own right when the case, art, and hardware all complement each other. Many commercial sticks you can't change the art, and even for the few where that's possible, you are still stuck with the default case.
   
   Because of the first two reasons, a custom stick can be a great long-term investment, since a new PCB is much, much cheaper than a new high-quality stick.
   
   In the short-term though, it costs as much as a high end stick, especially if your case is all-metal or other high cost solutions.
   
   In your case I would recommend the new Mayflash sticks, like this one or something like the Qanba Drone.
   
   Both sticks you could upgrade with a little work, but are in any case good starter sticks. You might find them a little small or too light, and the parts aren't the highest quality, but it's probably best to start with one of these sub $100 options, then if you are enjoying stick a lot, move to a high end sanwa stick for ~$250.

Holy wow thank you for the in depth response. Just really started getting into true sim racing and the whole community has been awesome so far.
I've been using a crap wheel/controller so I'm basically looking at my first true set up. That means Logitech and others are out because I want to be in an ecosystem I can upgrade and grow over time. That seems to mean Fanatec or Thristmaster right now.
With that in mind , I'm comparing integrated products, base wheel and pedals together. The best prices I've found on new products so far have been through Fanatec direct and Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-playstation-4/dp/B015KJ0SES
https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/bundle/product;bundle_id;153

They both have awesome upsides with huge upgrades I can make over time, which is really the most important thing to me right now. If I wind up living and breathing sim racing, I'll eventually want to go direct drive, but I don't have any plans to do so as of yet.
Plus, in all honesty, if I don't stick with sim racing for the very long term (which I think is unlikely, but always a possibility), the Elite and T300 both seem to retain their value pretty well, definitely better than the current crop of Logitech and other brands.

Thoughts on the above would be awesome! Thanks again.

I am new to DCS, a long time flight sim nut and working on my pilot's license. I bought many of the planes (A-10C, F/A-18C, FC3 and the F-5E). I could not decide so it was better to buy them all since they were on sale lol! What I found out was the F-18 and the F-5E are the two I enjoy with the F-5E what I am enjoying most. I feel more like I am having to work more to fly it but in a good way. Fun to startup but not excessive, fun to fly and land. I think I actually like that I do not have all of the toys. The aggressors campaign for the F-5E has been fun to learn on since I also bought the Nevada map. The F/A-18C is a weapons platform, but the real joy is taking off and landing on a carrier.

I bought a cheap HOTAS as I just could not fly with the XBOX controller. It know that it is not the Warthog HOTAS (maybe Christmas 2019 now that there is the F/A-18 add-on stick), but for $70, I cannot stress how much better it is without a deep investment. I got a friend in on the game and he got the A-10C because he wants close quarters bombing and strafing runs and he bought the PS4 version of my stick and loving it.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-One-xbox/dp/B07643TW2V?th=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Flight-playstation-4/dp/B015PJ68BK/

Compared to what are commonly called "arcade" racing games, "sim" racing games typically require more precision & better timing, and are thus considerably less forgiving & more difficult to control. I think people who enjoy the challenge and are willing to spend a significant amount of time practicing smartly can probably reach a somewhat safe (for others sharing the track with you) level of competency within a few weeks. Becoming competitive, however, can take much longer. There are lots of free resources online for learning how to improve.

Fanatical.com currently has a sale on Project CARS 2 for $28.79 (52%-off) - and there's also a free demo on Steam to try (which I recommend before you spend anything). Assetto Corsa is $29.99 (and a few times a year, it usually goes on sale for less). Both games have an offline practice mode & a single-player career mode to learn in before venturing into their online multi-player modes. Please do other racers a favor and avoid going online until after you've developed a solid grasp on safely controlling your car in traffic. ;)

The Logitech G29 wheel is popular (currently available new for $269 at Amazon.com). The ThrustMaster T150 is a budget-priced entry-level wheel (currently available new for $200 at Amazon.com). As long as you're not too rough with either of those, they should last long enough for you reach a point where you know if sim racing is something you want to go further with.

Unless you've got lots of disposable income to throw around, I wouldn't recommend spending more until after you become somewhat competitive with a budget setup.

Good luck & have fun!

If you really don't care for features, and want blues, there's a few options. It really depends how much you want to spend. The KB below are kinda starter/non-enthusiast boards (with maybe the exception of the corsairs), which doesn't mean they're bad, just that they are what most people are looking for (simple, clean, cheap, and sturdy). You could get other boards for around $150 that are a bit fancier, but it sounds like you just want a KB that works.

This is an decent board, but there are better ($139) -

http://www.amazon.com/Das-Keyboard-Professional-Mechanical-DASK3MKPROSIL/dp/B008PFDUW2/

Corsair has some nice boards around this range, but they also have extra features, such as LEDs and media keys. I recommend the K70 over the strafe, but the K70 is out of stock for some options -

$115-130 - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B014W1YUAS/

$150 - http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Mechanical-Keyboard-Multicolor-CH-9000120-NA/dp/B014W1YLAM/

CoolerMaster has some really solid boards. I would recommend the CoolerMaster Storm QuickFire Ultimate if you want something that's good but not over the top, and doesn't cost you too much. The CM Storm QuickFire XT is a similar board, but without LEDs.

$108 - http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-Ultimate-Mechanical/dp/B00EJ8CKIY/

$98 - http://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00DKXXABK/

Rosewill also has some nice boards, but they're a bit simpler. I recommend the Rosewill Mechanical Gaming Keyboard if you want something real simple and cheaper than most. The Rosewill Apollo is also nice, and has some LEDs if that's what you want

$80 - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/

$94/114 - http://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-RK-9100xBBR-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00HA201UK/

Apologies for the lack or order and formatting, and let me know if you have any questions. The biggest thing for keyboards is that you like it though, so make sure you find one that appeals to you!

T300 Alcantara Bundle is the wheel to get. Its good all around, good base, good wheel and also pretty good pedals. Should be everything you need to get you started.

The T300 is the succesor to the T500 and its a better base in virtually everything.

iRacing is the place to go for public online simracing. Its expensive, but has a good penalty system that forces clean racing. It's good competition.

Alternatively you can also look for a league and race with them in any game really. Most serious simracing with fair opponents and no ramming etc is done in leagues or iRacing. It's not impossible to find good racing publicly in games, but often it has some rammers or the like.

There are many leagues out there, personally I race with Racedepartment but there are many more groups around.

Best game on how to learn is a difficult one, any game can do really ,the fundamentals of driving fast (and safe) are the same both in real life as well as in any simracing game.

I'd recommend watching this video on racing fundamentals, it covers everything to get you started. Don't expect to be the new Max Verstappen in just a few hours though :)

Whats your current specs?

I'd say avoid VR initially, I personally think it is the better overall experience but its a bit tough to learn DCS in and costs more overall in terms of hardware and performance.

So for under $1k budget, I'd get something like this if you can fit it in your space, or you could spend a bit more and get the [warthog]
(https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N77385WVH3Q2D79PYPY2) which is a great setup, just no pedals.

Then, trackir or Open track for sure. And yes, you described how it works but its not a 1:1 head turn, and you can change the sensitivity. I don't really move my head more than 15 degrees or so.

Then I'd suggest buying the F/A-18, its a good mix of difficulty and capability.

After that, I'd go for the bottle neck in your system, but I dunno your specs. I'd suggest a 2070 super if you can afford it, or see if you can pick up some decent components over at /r/hardwareswap

After you've got some hours and feeling like you need more, maybe start saving for a VR headset, I'd suggest the index, but I've heard great things about the rift-s. Odessy + on a budget if need be.

No need to apologize. I certainly haven't owned every board out there, so the best I can do is take a look at reviews to feature set with you.


So first, let's decide some things.
Do you want a backlight? If so, does it need to be RGB?


What size board do you prefer? I would suggest going no lower than tenkeyless if you're using it at all for some professional work, only because it could temporarily slow down your work rate because some keys will be in different positions or missing entirely. This may take getting used to. If you're up for that, that's cool too. Full size boards have a numberpad, some are larger with "macro" keys. There are variations with fewer keys, that maybe don't have arrow keys etc. and are slightly smaller. Then there's tenkeyless, which has no numbpad, and then smaller variations often with no function keys or arrow keys, with their functions require key combos.


We've got a price range, and we're going for mechanical, but I'm wondering how much branding and brand names matter to you. There are some boards out there with big logos, and they can be ugly as sin, doesn't affect functionality, but cosmetics are worth considering on something you look at daily. Next, do you need a brand that's "famous?" It may be hard to find a RAZER, Corsair, CoolerMaster, or other big names in the industry under $40, depending on your required feature set.

Finally, that brings us to switch type. There's a lot of brands of switch style, and if I had to guess, you're probably gonna have trouble finding Cherry MX, the most iconic switch type, in this range. That said, some of the "copy" switches are nearly identical and have pretty solid build quality, differences only noticeable by the most sensitive of typists. So here's a quick break down of the most popular switch types:

Blue: Tactile Bump during actuation, can feel it and hear it(loudest switch, clicks on bump, clacks when the key "bottoms out" or is pressed all the way down)

Brown: Very light tactile bump(I don't really feel it if I've just been typing on my blue or Razer green switch board), makes a sound when bottoming out. This is considered the happy medium, somewhat silent, can be made very quiet with an accessory, still had tactile feedback.

Red: Silent, linear switches. Not whisper silent, but much quieter, no noise or tactile bump when the keypress is actuated. I really don't think you'll be able to snag a new board with these.

Black: Silent, almost exactly like reds, but require more force to press down, they're not too popular as people complain they make their fingers tired. However, I see them a lot under budget boards.


The Blue, Brown and Reds are the most common. There are more switches out there, and some brands use different colors to associate the style, but the styles are largely the same.


I'm gonna link(not affiliate links) some boards, just to show the styles and backlighting options off, these are mostly a bit out of your price range, but this should give you a general idea of what they look like, and how much extra things like RGB cost:

Pretty standard tenkeylessboard: https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Water-Resistant-Mechanical-Keyboard-Non-Conflicting/dp/B01DBJTZU2/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206833&sr=8-31&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


A compact board, I believe it's a 75% variation: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-4&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Tenkeyless RGB: https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Mechanical-Redragon-illuminated-ABS-Metal/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-5&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Fullsize board, the standard: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Programmable-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B073QPDZHQ/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206906&sr=8-45&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Now, these are mostly "cheap" brands, in that they're not ultra famous like RAZER, or Corsair, etc. But, these are some of the more highly rated boards. Of course, you absolutely do not have to buy from amazon either, and these are mostly out of the range, so please get back to me on the style and backlighting options you'd like. I think one of these "knock off" brands will be your best bet, particularly if you want backlighting. Other users are of course free to offer advice too.


Once you tell me, generally, the size, and switch type we're after, we can try to find some boards that are on sale, not just the stuff I quickly found that was relatively cheap and well reviewed. Sometimes you can get something that seems a decent price, for even less if you watch and wait. So that might be worth considering too.

Please let me know your preferences, and I hope my explanations were somewhat clear.

Generally, the best keyboards are ones with Cherry MX Mechanical switches.

There are 3 types of switches that people mainly go for.

Red switches are linear switches, that means they don't have a bump. They are don't have a click, but make a large clacking sound. They will not have any feeling at the actuation point (The point where the keyboard recongizes your input). These are generally recongized as better for gaming rather than typing.

Blue keys will have an audible click at the point where the keyboard recongnizes your input. There will also be a slight bump at that point as well. These are generally recongized for being better at typing than gaming.

Brown keys are the middle between red and blue keys. Brown keys will keep the slight bump at the point where the keyboard recongizes your input, but does away with the click sounds of blue keys

Generally, the best keyboards will have genuine cherry mx switches of any type. That should be your starting point. Then you can add things like volume controls, backlighting, etc etc etc. Generally, the keyboard that stuffs the most of these features while keeping cherry mx switches will be your best deal.

All of these will be good gaming keyboards while keeping under your budget:

https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00EQV0W02/ref=sr_1_40?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480556&sr=1-40&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Mechanical-Keyboard-HX-KB1RD1-NA-A1/dp/B01NCX88FQ/ref=sr_1_37?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480525&sr=1-37&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-16&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-920-007857/dp/B01CDYB8F6/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-17&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-BlackWidow-Ultimate-Mechanical-Programmable/dp/B01CVOMWXU/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-22&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-Backlight-keyboard/dp/B01872MCIA/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-11&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-Backlight-keyboard/dp/B01872MCIA/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-11&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-STRAFE-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B012B6X7MI/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Compact-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00DOWCQ0I/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-4&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

The Rocket Book Everlast is not high tech by normal thoughts, but I use it to jot down notes all the time, and I never have to worry about running out of space.
The LiveScribe is also awesome for the same reason, and you can even dictate to it.
Portable charger battery pack for phone or tablet makes for an awesome stocking stuffer. I use mine a lot, and never leave home without it.
This is also pretty handy if you like to connect your laptop to the tv like I do.
A micro usb to usb A flash drive is awesome because toy can store movies on it and watch them on your phone without taking up space on it or its SD card. (They also have them for Apple phones)
If you don't fear for your wallet, and you live near a Fry's Electronics store, they also have gobs of things to give you ideas.

Definitely check out the Gamesir Wireless Controller for ₹2k

I know 2k may seem pricy but it’s worth it IMO. 100% recommended. Look it up.

https://www.amazon.in/Gamesir-Wireless-Controller-Android-Black/dp/B019H5II8Y?tag=googinhydr18418-21&tag=googinkenshoo-21&ascsubtag=8b027a83-4b81-4248-b793-0f2ab8ca3dce

Works with PC/PS3/Android/iOS

The nice thing is that it has the XBox’s buttons, so if a game with Xinput tells you “press X” you know to press X on your gamepad, which is useful for fighting games.

Same can’t be said about the PS3/PS4 gamepads which have shape buttons. If a game tells you to press X, you’ll have to press “▣” on your gamepad. That can get annoying.

It’s really good and feels like the PS4 controller (I’ve used a PS4 gamepad a few times).



but If you don’t want to spend 2k you can check out the wireless Redgear one for 1.3k. I haven’t tried this but it has good reviews and is a best seller. The [cheaper] wired model is unavailable.


Sorry if you wanted some super cheap get-the-job-done controllers. I’ve always presumed super cheap ones were a waste of money so I never bothered with them.

So this past Saturday night I was browsing some reddit. I happened to stumble across this photo, which awoke a desire in me to own a mechanical keyboard. Until now I thought mechanical keyboards were just a gamer thing and the only style they came in was black keyboards with RGB flashing all over the place. But seeing that picture made me realize that there is a huge variety of ways you can aesthetically customize a board. So the past few days I've spent a lot of my spare time doing research and trying to decide what I ultimate want in my "dream" mechanical keyboard. I've ordered a cheaper mechanical keyboard off Amazon for now until I've settled on what I want.

Sorry for the story, I just thought it was worth mentioning and giving you my very brief history and knowledge of mechanical keyboards (or lack thereof). Anyway, I have two questions:

1. What are some quality 75% or higher keyboards with a completely compact design? By compact design, I mean no empty space between key groupings. Like this. I want f-keys and some kind of arrows (either actual arrow keys or a numpad with numlock). Preferably Cherry MX switches, or something that supports Cherry MX stemmed keycaps. I imagine I'm looking in all the wrong places, but I haven't seen many keyboards like that. The Red Scarf III Ver.A pictured above was part of a massdrop, and the Drevo 84 Key Gramr is a budget board. I assume the Noppoo Choc Mini 84 NKRO is my answer? Are there any others?
   
2. Where can I get my hands on a nice set of SA/DSA profile keycaps? I'm in love with the Nantucket set, but they just wrapped up a groupbuy. The few times I've seen them on r/mechmarket they've either sold out super fast or are priced higher than I can comfortably pay for them. Royal Navy seems equally hard to hunt down. I also wouldn't mind a carbon/industrial look like the GMK Carbon set. I know that pimpmykeyboard has some SA and DSA sets, but I'm not too fond of any of them (and if I'm going to be spending $100+ on a keyset, I want to be happy with what I get).

Won't be a jet engine. But if you want it to be more silent, you could buy 2 more aftermarket coolers. And replace the 2 stock fans.

I am a big fan (pun intended) of Noctua, Be Quiet, Gentle, Bitfenix and some CoolerMaster fans for when on a budget.

As for the peripherals.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
Keyboard | Gigabyte GK-OSMIUM BRN Wired Gaming Keyboard | £74.98 @ Amazon UK
Headphones | Kingston HyperX Cloud Pro Headset | £50.99 @ Amazon UK
Mouse| Logitech G402| £38.00 @ Amazon UK
Mousepad| Qpad FX-44 Large| £18.00 @ Amazon UK
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £181.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-10 02:16 GMT+0000 |


Keyboard: MX browns, macro keys, white backlight, nice wristrest, not that expensive. Very suttle look on it as well. I couldn't find to many reviews, but here is an unboxing and overview.
Headphones: Review! Very solid review. It as well matches our build and it's freaking "cheap" for a gaming headset. i wish I had enough money to give this one to my friend where I game with a lot, his headset is terrible and his microphone is a lot worse.
Mouse: Review! Again I don't really need to say more then this. If they still sell this mouse at the time that my own dies, I will get this one. I personally use the G400s wich got a "weaker' sensor and fewer buttons. But is still an amazing mouse.
Mousepad: This is pretty personal, but most people do like a cloth surface. Including myself. A tip when you get it: put it in the dryer for a few minutes. This will remove the wraps that it got after you unpack it. If you don't like the design and want a clean look instead. The SteelSeries heavy is a great alternative, with basicly the same dimensions as the Qpad.

The X56 is a bit expensive for what it is, and has dubious quality where you either get a stick that works for five years or that breaks after a few days. Supposedly the quality got better when Saitek got bought out, but I don't know how much I trust that.

On the other hand, the T16000M HOTAS is a well-proven stick and throttle combo. It has the same Hall sensors in the stick that the more expensive Warthog stick uses and has a good amount of buttons and hats that it can be used for a variety of aircraft. It is also a twist stick so you can use it for rudder control, and the throttle has a set of paddles that you can use as axis for things like zoom, brakes, rudder, or whatever else you might need.

TL;DR I'd recommend the T16000M HOTAS. And with the money you're saving from the X56 you could pick up TrackIR 5 if you don't already have it.

There's also this pack that comes with the Thrustmaster rudder pedals which are a good quality, and the pack is still less expensive than the X56 by a decent amount. I've also seen this pack on sale down to 150USD so if you're patient you could save a bit of money on it as well.

I don't know what exactly your budget is but it's also worth noting that the Warthog HOTAS tends to go on sale around the Black Friday to Xmas timeframe and you can often find it for 300USD. It's worth noting with this that the Warthog has no axis able to be used for rudders so you would need to buy rudder pedals from somewhere.

Edit: I added links to Amazon products that are pretty nice and fit into your budget, if none of these work or you wanted advice on finding similar ones on slightly cheaper budgets just let me know and I'd love to help out!

​

I realize some people like them, and I mean no disrespect to u/MNLegoBoy but please do not get him a steam controller. I own one and me and everyone I've ever known who used one absolutely hated it.

​

If he only has one monitor in his setup I would highly suggest getting him a decent second monitor to have discord, youtube, or whatever else he wants up while he plays. It can be really helpful and never hurts to have.

​

If that doesn't work, you know about his setup...

and he uses a headset with a built-in mic I would suggest getting him this microphone and this interface. Even though they're cheap they're more than good enough and make people feel more legit because they're more like a streamer setup.

​

and he really likes his headphones/has really nice headphones but doesn't have a headphone stand or mount for him to keep his headphones on and keep his desk organized.

​

and he's into fighting games or older arcade games you could get him a fighting stick (be careful on this one, if he doesn't have room or likes using his KBM I wouldn't suggest it. It might also help to get one on a higher budget.)

PS4 Flight Controls

_____

Keyboard and Mouse support is an issue that’s a lot more nuanced than people may expect. For one thing, you have to point out whether you’re talking about system support or game support. If it’s system support, native console keyboard and mouse support (on the PlayStation side at least) has been around since the PS1, which means that yes, the PS4 does have native keyboard and mouse support. The support issue comes into play with what games support, and really it’s just the fault of developers that most console games don’t have keyboard and mouse support.

A handful of console games have keyboard and mouse support, even some popular ones like Fortnite, Paladins, and Final Fantasy XIV, but most developers just opt not to include it into their console ports. One excuse if seen is that “consoles come with controllers, not keyboards and mice.” The problem with that idea is that it’s not balanced like that when it comes to PC ports, where they’ll have kb+m support and controller support, even though, you know, PCs don’t come with controllers. Another idea is that kb+m support would “give console players an unfair advantage.” However not only does that idea not stem to PC, where you can get an advantage in games by using specialised controllers for racing, flight, and fighting games, but tools like the Xim Apex and Hori Tactical Assault allow people to use keyboard and mouse on consoles, which means that only people who can afford them have that advantage. In that way, allowing universal kb+m support on consoles would actually balance things out by allowing all players to share that advantage, not just the ones who can afford $100+ conversion tools.

Developers tend to show extra love to PC players, and tend to under-support console players. It’s another part of the issue that people seem to view one option as the “better option,” which makes them underestimate or even look down on the “other option.” That’s not the fault of consoles, it’s the fault of people not wanting to treat them like a real gaming platform.

For speakers, if space is an issue, you should get the Micca MB42X then, as they're much smaller than the JBL LSR305s. Or you could even just get the Micca MB42. I have the JBL LSR305s and a fairly small desk and they fit. I have a 23-inch monitor and one speaker on each side of the monitor. You may also want to get a DAC for your speakers, like the Schiit Modi 2 / (Amazon link) or a DAC/amp combo, like the Schiit Fulla / (Amazon link) or FiiO E10K (Amazon link) or AudioQuest - DragonFly (Amazon link).

For headphones/headsets, you have many choices. If you are a gamer, you should check out Sennheiser's gaming headsets. If you don't plan on gaming and just want to listen to music, check out the Sennheiser HD series. They can be found much cheaper on Amazon, eBay, or other various retailers. I personally have the Sennheiser PC363D headset for gaming and unfortunately paid about $240 for them, not even 6 months ago. Right after I bought them, the price on Amazon dropped dramatically, to around $130. I just checked on Amazon and now they're back up to around $219, but if you watch them, they will probably drop again like they did before. Or you can check on eBay. Sennheiser does have cheaper models though (all of these are around $150 or less) like the brand new Sennheiser GSP300 / (Amazon link), Sennheiser GSP350 / (Amazon link), or the Sennheiser GAME ONE / (Amazon link). I have tried a few different brands and Sennheiser is my favorite for performance. I also have the Sennheiser HD 598 SE / (Amazon link) for listening to music and the Sennheiser RS120 II wireless headphones (Sennheiser RS 120 (older model) (Amazon link)) for my TV and got them for my parents too. If you live in a place where you can't have your TV or music too loud, the wireless headphones are very helpful. Overall, I use the Sennheiser PC 363D headset the most and it sounds awesome. If you're a gamer, get a gaming headset, or if you just listen to music, the HD series are great too.

Flying with dual joysticks (and pedals) feels awesome! I got a T16000m FCS plus a T16000m FCS Flight Pack and only use the sticks and the pedal right now

I am gonna configure my setup in a way that I can switch from hosas to hotas when I am not in combat to be able to fly around more relaxed. It should be pretty easy to set up if I play around with the Target software some more.

The first time setting up dual joysticks was pretty tedious. I used TheNOOBIFIER1337's Playlist and the several reddit posts as an inspiration and finally decided to set them up more or less like in this video
To keep my desk uncluttered and my KB/M close I made a setup like this one!. Here are some more Images.

Thanks for the reply!

The controller I am using is the same one op bought (I pretty much bought everything exactly as he suggested).

Link here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZOAO0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to add a configuration to the end of the retroarch.cfg file, but for some reason I can't type quotation marks ". The pi changes quotes into an @ symbol. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

I also ran into an issue when I tried to follow the post you shared (thanks btw). When I hit F1 inside the emulator and saved a new config, the notification that it had been created ran off the side of the screen, so I was unable to find out what the file was named.

Can someone please explain to me what SSH is? I ran an HDMI cable from the pi to my monitor so I can switch back and forth from my computer to the pi using the monitor input, is that the best way to do this?

Thanks for your help, sorry for the noob questions. =)

Edit: I don't know why I ask questions before using Google-Fu. Got SSH to work using Putty. Ignore that question =)

Your English is quite good :)

I wouldn't really recommend the three options that you listed as they aren't really the best value for the money (especially so with the Logitech and the Corsair). Instead, I'd recommend either the GMMK or the Redragon K556, mainly because both of these keyboards have the ability to pull out the keyswitches and replace them with new ones, which can be extremely useful for both longevity purposes and for customizing your keyboard to your liking. The Redragon would be a good value conscious option, while the GMMK is the better choice for pulling out keyswitches, as the GMMK seems to have a wider range of compatibility versus the Redragon.

Also, unless you're specifically a fan of memchanical keyboards, I wouldn't recommend the CM Masterset, as they don't come close to replicating what an actual mechanical keyboard feels like.

/u/seapodstudios : Thanks for posting

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------------------------

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new to vive: looking for suggestions to hit the ground running! by seapodstudios


howdy.

====

my first vive set arrived today as follows:

Black Friday bundle of the HTC VIVE Virtual Reality System comes with a free VIVE Deluxe Audio Strap and includes Fallout 4 VR, Google’s Tilt Brush, and a free trial for Viveport Subscription.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF5NT4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1511815008&sr=1-3&keywords=vive+headset

====

i have also ordered a tripod setup as follows:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U5F3OE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VAH3KWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2TNW8ZCY8P5MD&psc=1

====

the vive hardware arrived today (!) and the rest is set to arrive wednesday along with my first alienware box (wootwoot). i'm hoping to hit the ground running on wednesday with regard to any extension cables i might need to cover a 10'x10'x10' play space that will be covered by an 8'x10' carpet on hardwood for tactile reinforcement of the concierge.

if anybody has any tips/links to share re: pitfalls to avoid during setup that would also be greatly appreciated.

	

	

	

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Let me preface this with saying I think you should just get a PS4 controller because it's best at that price range. That being said, I can kind of see why maybe you'd want to get a cheap stick. Maybe you aren't sure you really wanna use one, so don't want to commit $200 and you'd like to try it first, which seems relatively reasonable.

You won't find one for less than $50 though, but for $55 there's https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 which at least exists. It isn't going to be great, but it's at least an arcade stick and even though it isn't high quality or anything it's going to feel like any other stick from the standpoint of the layout. So if you've never used a stick and just want to try one to see if you like it I think that's probably the best you can do.

Again though, I think just use a pad, there's nothing wrong with it, they work for other games as well, and it's cheaper and wireless.

The Mayflash F300 is super cheap and really durable and comes with great parts- nothing beats this within that price range and many people start off w/ the F300 due to these reasons; it's an overall great stick and has an amazing price.

The F300 has a newer version though which is the F500 it's about $30 more expensive, but the case itself is a bit bigger so it sits on the lap easier(also better for people with bigger hands) and has some metal plates on the top and bottom which means more durability and just feels more premium. It also includes more features than the F300 such as: a headphone jack(apple?) and a much easier artwork change option. Hopefully this helps, but you should also watch some YouTube vids about budget fightsticks as theres tons of content about those :)

Hi there, sorry for the late answer I was out for the week-end!

It will depends highly on what you expect him to do with it, and also your budget. But for the more standard it will be at least:

• The Pi
  
  
• A power cable: the "Alim" was a bad use of a french word for power cable
  
  
• A case or another (You can also build one with Legos! :D )
  
  
• a microSD card for the OS (no preference I took the first link I saw)
  
  Then there can be:
  
  
• A usb wifi adapter if the can't plug an ethernet cable
  
  
• An hdmi cable if you think he will use it on his TV or standard PC monitor.
  
  
• About the controller, if you think he will build a media center linked to his TV with the HDMI cable, some TVs allow the use of "CEC" controller, and so his TV command will be automatically compatible with the Pi. Else, he can use a classic keyboard and mouse set, or some mobile solution or even a snes usb controller if he wants to build a retrogaming console
  
  
• To finish if you have a large budget for your friend there is a lot of accessories you can find in the related articles of the Pi on Amazon, like a webcam, a motion sensor module
  
  
• You can also buy a complete bundle or a starter kit like this if you think he will have fun with all the electronic parts :)
  
  And I confirm, it can be a pretty cool gift for a friend to build :)

A closed-back headphone is a headphone that has no vents on the outside of the earcup to allow air in or out of the sound chamber of the headphone. This has a tendency to emphasize bass. Closed-back headphones will also offer noise-isolation (not to be confused with Active Noise Canceling.)

An open-back has opening(s) - a grill, slots, holes, mesh, etc... behind the driver on the outside of the cup that allows air in and out of the sound chamber. Open-back headphones tend to not have the bass power of similar closed-back headphones - but typically are better at treble. Open-back headphones don't offer any passive noise isolation, as they are pretty much 'open' to the air in all directions. Sound will get in, and some small sound will get out.

The other major difference is in soundstage. Most closed-back headphones have very small soundstage, while most open-back headphones have wider sound-stage than most closed-backs, with some exceptions.

(closed-back) https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-KHX-HSCP-RD/dp/B00SAYCXWG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542919969&sr=8-3&keywords=HyperX+Cloud+2

(closed-back) https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Alpha-Gaming-Headset/dp/B074NBSF9N/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1542919988&sr=1-2&keywords=HyperX+Cloud+Alpha

(closed-back) https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-GSP-300-Closed-Headset/dp/B01KV3BB0S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542920285&sr=1-1&keywords=gsp300

(open-back) https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-sennheiser-pc37x-gaming-headset

(closed-back) https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-GAME-ZERO-Gaming-Headset/dp/B00KNPYAEY?th=1


In terms of pure comfort, the Cloud II /w its' velour earpads are extremely comfortable (as my opinion), however of the above listed headsets it's overall sound quality is the worst/or tied with the Alpha. All of those have exceptional build quality compared to other gaming headsets I've ever tested (that's an extensive list, including Razer, Logitech, Turtle Beach, Sennheiser, HyperX, Corsair, SteelSeries, and whatever else they sell at Best Buy and Microcenter.) Now, that's not saying the Cloud II has bad sound quality, it's top tier among headsets - but the Sennheiser offerings are technically better, and have somewhat better microphones.

I've never used a deathadder, but if I could make some recommendations, the Logitech G400 and Perixx MX-2000B are really good mice in my experience. the [G400] (http://amzn.com/B0055QZ216) is particularly liked by the people over at /r/mousereview for its sensor, and it's just a nice looking, minimal mouse. I just got the [Perixx MX-2000B] (http://amzn.com/B0083H4NG4) and while it's a branded version of a mouse that some other companies use, I can tell you it's a very comfortable mouse to use and works well in gaming. Doesn't hurt that it's $31.99 and you get stuff like LED customization and weight tuning.

Oh god, yes, we have. You ordered from HTC direct, correct?

Good luck to you comrade. There's many of us that... Don't have very nice things to say about HTC. In any case, enjoy your Vive! It is a fantastic piece of kit. Think about getting the Deluxe Audio Strap for increased comfort and pretty nice built in headphones.

Its this one.

GameSir G3s - an fyi this is a Canadian link - this is Green but I have the black one which looks sold out and being resold for much higher than retail. The App I use supports other gamepads too.

I dug up the link for the US one for those not in the Kingdom of Canada.

It does ship with a phone holder to mount it ontop so just make sure yours fits before you consider buying.

The App is Matsu player and it does N64,PS1, All gameboy models, Snes, Nes and I think a few others. Ive tried them all and they run pretty good.

Free one has ads but after I used it for a bit of time and saw how good it ran I sprang for the full version. To each their own but I knew I'd get enough time out of it to warrant the upgrade and go ad-less.

Did you ever type on a mechanical keyboard? The first time I tried one I was immediately faster while typing and it felt amazing.

Programmability and therefore macros seems to be standard most of the time, even my 25€ board could program every single key to my liking.
The Vortex Race 3 I bought supports macros of up to 32 keystrokes. The reason I bought a 75% keyboard over an even smaller one is so I can use the F-Row for gaming macros.
I can't imagine the left row of dedicated macro keys on the horde to be very comfortable to reach.

I don't want to put you off of your decision, but I'd highly encourage you to check out the other options you have with 100€. If you still find the horde to fit your needs the best, than it is still a great decision for you.

Edit:
Check out the Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L

Or the hyper X fury alloy

Both are decent full size gaming keyboards and if you've got the spare money they are also available as RGB.

I was about to write a lengthy text, until I realized that all i was saying has already been discussed :-)

I would love to recommend you the Thrustmaster VG T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition , but the Logitech's QC has been really bad, and I don't know if they have improved in the last two years or not, so I can't really recommend them with a straight face...

The G29 is basically a slightly updated G27 minus the H-shifter (which you can buy separately if needs be). Some people are angry because of the omitment of the shifter, therefore the mixed reviews, otherwise it's a great set.

If you get more serious about sim-racing, and want to get better lap-times you can mod the G27 brake pedal with a loadcell...either totally diy (around 100 dollar) or with a kit (130 dollar).

It all depends on your budget obviously, but the G29 is definitively a very good set with the ability to mod the hell out of the brake pedal (if you ever feel the need to do so).

If you have more questions I am sure the guys and gals at /r/simracing are glad to help you (especially as the majority of them has more experience than I have...I'm still only entry-level enthusiast hehe).

-)

Well taking into account your price range I would say this is probably your best bet; the logitech G402.

It's £40-45 but it is a really reliable accurate mouse. I used to use it myself before I got a razer deathadder (more expensive). The two buttons on the side are comfortable for your thumb, and there are also 2 more up on the clicker. They don't get in the way though and are actually pretty difficult to click, I never even used them, so don't worry about those ones.

The mouse is accurate, reliable, pretty light and free-flowing. Just get a good mouse mat (would recommend steelseries qck) and download the logitech gaming software to adjust your DPI to something you like.

I have and like my Logitech G410 which fits all of your criteria. From logitech you will pay more than your budget but you can get it for cheaper via 3rd party. Its $70 right now on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Spectrum-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-920-007731/dp/B01645FHEI

I also really like and actually use my Drevo TKL more tho which is not RGB: https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506356645&sr=1-5&keywords=drevo But one of the main reasons I really like this keyboard isthat the F-keys are directly in line with the number keys.

Drevo also has a RGB option but it doesnt have the inline F-keys: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506356645&sr=1-15&keywords=drevo

Overall I use my drevo for the very specific reason of the in-line f-keys and its a feature I really value. However if this isnt important I would recomend the G410. But any of these listed keyboards wont steer you wrong.

Cheers!

Hey dude.

Thanks for the awesome write up. Over the last week I've been mulling over getting into my first board. I too was super overwhelmed by all the information and the learning curve. I was intimidated by the really cool custom boards but knew I was nowhere near that level yet. Just yesterday I finally pulled the trigger on these two Items Filco Majestouch Numpad and Cooler Master MasterKeys S. Im pretty excited to see where things go. I'll eventually get some keycaps.

I do a lot of number entry at work and wanted to have a left side number pad, hence the two items. I saw this board online DSI LEFT HANDED USB KEYBOARD but was a little turned off by MX-Red only and then it being a board from 2012. I'm not sure how quality has changed the last 6 years and I wanted to go with MX-Browns for my first board. Maybe a little foolish to buy two items, but I was afraid of how hard it may be to switch from red to brown.

I think I'll eventually get into a full custom board where I can have a more compact layout but still have a Tenkey on the left side. We'll see how that goes. I'm hesitant to get a bunch of tools that would be needed to make a board. Hopefully more left side tenkey options will come out some day.

Anyway, tldr: just got my first board, looking forward to the adventure. Thanks for the info and the kind welcome to the community.

Get yourself something like a Razer Serval and then stream your PC connection to your phone. There is input lag, so take that into consideration, and the controllers for your phone do NOT reliably recognize multiple input commands like shift keys presses, so you really have to get your macros down.


EDIT: Wow, just found the Seenda android keyboard and honestly this thing looks like it could play wow pretty decently.
It is doable though, if you don't mind the input lag you can do stuff really easy like farming mats or world quests or LFR.

A little review on my 5K XR:

The headstrap is really s**t - cannot emphasise this enough. It is easily solved with the HTC Vive Deluxe Audio strap

HTC Vive Audio Strap

That requires a person with a 3D printer to make you three pieces, one for the top and one for each side.

Now we have something that works, but the faceplate is also s**t, so again, in steps HTC Vive:

Vive Cover

So now you want to know how it works, given that I am not experiencing pain just having the headset on?

I upgraded to the PIMAX from the Oculus CV1.

I have mainly used it for DCS, but have done a few sessions in IL2. I have an NVIDIA 2080TI, and I really would not spend the money on the headset if you cannot afford the graphics card, so that's about 2 grand american right there, net whatever pennies you can get for your Oculus and 1080.

So, now how does it work? - I got violently sick with the normal and wide FOV, just like in my parents' car as a child. The side view flashes past and made me sick.

I then changed to narrow view, and everything was fine, at least for me. I have friends who are happy in both normal and wide.

The cockpit is a lot clearer than with the Rift. With a reversed baseball cap under the straps, I can now tighten them enough that I can dogfight with no headset movement, even with a headset on top, which is an improvement on the Rift.

So my conclusion is, after a lot of farting around with both the strap and the graphics settings (PTool, DCS etc.), it is a huge improvement over the Rift and has made my DCS experience materially more immersive.

However, if you want a plug and play device, then this is definitely not for you, even if you have the two grand lying around.

[16AGR]Durham out.

I'm a bit late to the party but I would highly recommend this. It is cheap and amazing, slightly on the small side but it is great. It has an adjustable weight, macros, custom led, DPI button so you can change your DPI on the fly. Highly recommend and for the price its 100% worth it!

So I was searching around a bit more since you guys made some compelling arguments and found another pretty cool contender. The Redragon K556 Devarajas seems really awesome. This one is actually all metal unlike the corsair, still has all the features I liked about the corsair, and is quite a bit cheaper!

Also, I was checking out the brands you guys suggested, like Ducky and Coolermaster but it seems that they charge a bit more for the backlighting. Ducky has some really nice ones but they tend to run at around 150 with RGB, while coolermaster runs about 140.

My logic here is that the Redragon could hold me over for a couple of years until I have a better job and can afford a 150-200 dollar range keyboard.

Fingers crossed that ya'll like the Redragon haha

I never played on the PC, but I have it on the XBOX. honestly, I don't think you'll be missing much. The controls are super solid, and if it doesn't quite fit what you need, you can always tweak it. I've personally never had any issues with it, in fact, I'm still using the default controls.

Also, on PS4, if you REALLY want a HOTAS, you can definitely order some for cheap. I'm debating it myself.

But all in all, the controls are super solid! I wouldn't be very worried.

Also, check out /r/ElitePS for the PS4 player of Elite!

Looking to buy my first mech keyboard, preferably less than $140 AUD, that has white or blue backlighting, is full sized, has a standard key layout and has Cherry MX Browns. I'd also like something not too flashy.

I had my heart set on this, but the price has gone back up. I looked around Amazon and saw this, does it look like a good one? And if not, does anyone know of any good alternatives?

I was originally planning on buying from an Australian store, but some keyboards on Amazon US with shipping are cheaper than in Australia without shipping. Thanks Australia tax...

64GB of ram is a lot, a 2TB SSD is a lot as well. 500GB HDD is not a good option, 1TB is way better. It's possible with your budget:

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 1700 | $289.99 @ superbiiz
Motherboard | MSI B350 Tomahawk | $99.99 @ Amazon.com
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LED white DDR4-3000 CL15 (64 GB) | $599.99 @ newegg
Storage | WD Blue WD10EZEX (1 TB) | $45.79 @ superbiiz
SSD | Crucial MX300 (2 TB) | $544.62 @ Amazon.com
Case | BitFenix Comrade Midi-Tower - white Window | $59.99 @ superbiiz
Operating System | Windows 10 Home (32/64-bit, USB Flash Drive) | $102.99 @ superbiiz
| Total | $1743.36
| Generated by pc-kombo 20.09.2017 |

The Ryzen 7 1700 is an 8-core with 16 threads. It is a regular consumer cpu that is a good fit for things like video rendering, but you should be aware that with your budget a high core count threadripper cpu would also be possible, just not with as much ram and ssd storage.

The case is white and with a window, since it has to be a specific size and support an optical drive there was not much choice. You might want to swap out the mainboard to have a different style, but what I saw as a better fit was too expensive.

The display could be as simple as https://www.productchart.com/monitors/10237, proper 24" curved displays from Samsung.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826816067 is a nice mouse (with RGB), https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B019O9BLVY?th=1 a keyboard with RGB backlight. There are of course many other options, also some white ones.

I'm not which optical drive you want (dvd, bluray?), and don't know nothing about standalone microphones.

Currently looking for my first mechanical keyboard. I've looked at the wiki, but there's so much information I'm honestly a bit overwhelmed.

At the moment I've narrowed my choice to a full keyboard with brown switches. I think I'd like full RGB customization as well.

I have $125 to Amazon, so am focusing my search there. Anyone have any suggestions? Can a be a bit more than the 125 if it's really worth the money. Thanks!

Is something like this a good keyboard?
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1511835084&sr=8-25&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

just you wait. you may be interested in getting a /r/hotas setup to play warthunder (Free+paid DLC), DCS (also Free+paid DLC), elite: dangerous($30), star citizen ($45), mechwarrior 4 (free), star fighter arduxim ($5), or vector 36 ($25). all great games to play with a set up. You can get an entry level one for $60 (Thrustmaster HOTAS 4 is your best bang/buck/skill) The feeling of using a physical throttle and joystick to fly and turn make my greatest experiences in VR.

I never liked the stiff feel of the x1 dpad, and the 360 controller dpad really sucks. I also tried the logitech controller and didn't like their triggers. I also did not like the fact that the F710 dropped its signal all the damn time. The steam controller looks interesting, but I didn't feel like messing around with that.

http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Wireless-Controller-Smartphone-Playstation-3/dp/B019H5II8Y

This is the one I came across. Despite being from one of those chinese knockoff companies the controller itself is built quite well. It has a nice dpad, and the buttons and triggers all feel good. I also like the feel of the PS4 controller. The battery life on it is also pretty damn good and I can recharge it with a usb cable.

I may try the steam controller at some point, but I got two of these right now, and im very happy with them.

I'm looking to buy one of the following keyboards, but not sure which one to get. All prices are Canadian dollars, so don't be alarmed if they seem high :)

1. $105.92 Ducky One Double Shot Blue LED Backlit - http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=34811142128
   
   
2. $120.99 Cooler Master MasterKeys L PBT - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072C516B9/
   
   
3. $119.99 MasterKeys Pro L Mechanical Keyboard with Intelligent White LED - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ITE93OM/
   
   

• The Ducky One is Double Shot. Which is better in your opinion - PBT or Double Shot?
  
• Is Ducky One a better brand than CM Masterkeys? Answer may seem obvious but I don't want to assume anything.
  
• The PBT Masterkeys will arrive the fastest, but has no backlighting and costs more than the Ducky One - is PBT worth the $15 price increase over double shot?
  
• The 3rd option is a backlit Masterkeys Pro but no PBT and will take the longest to arrive.
  
  I missed out on buying a $164.99 Ducky Shine 6 PBT Double Shot Black Keycaps RGB LED - would that have been the best one to buy? Price higher than the others was the only limiting factor.
  http://www.ncix.com/detail/ducky-shine-6-cherry-mx-7b-141351.htm
  
  Just throwing these Keyboards into the mix as well, you'll probably immediately disregard them but included them just in case:
  
  

4. $109.99 Corsair Strafe Red LED - https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX58570
   
   
5. $99.95 Logitech G610 Orion Backlit - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01CDYB8F6/
   

I knew nothing about them and didn't want to get a super expensive one without ever having used one or played Elite at the time. This is the HOTAS4 from thrustmaster. You can pick up a HOTAS X from them for $10 cheaper but this one works with the PS4 too (not that many games support it but with VR on the way, better safe than sorry). Love it so far, can't really give it any negatives other than that the cable between the two pieces being a bit short but that's where the hobby part kicks in.

I mentioned this already in another post, but the Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara Edition package is a very solid choice. Normally, the price is $469 on Amazon, but I saw it go for $299 during Black Friday and during the Christmas/holiday season. I picked it up when it was on sale, and for that price, its extremely well worth it. This setup is far superior to any of the Logitech wheels/pedals. My roommate has a Logitech G29, and that thing feels like a toy in every way compared to the T300. The T300 is much quiter, smoother feeling, and the pedals feel much more realistic (for this price range). Also just the diameter of the wheel alone makes a huge difference in the feel. It does not come with a separate shifter, but you can always add that in the future.

I have tried the G29 and the T300 side by side, and I can answer any questions you might have about them. Currently I'm using the T300 Alcantara package with a Fanatec 1.5 SQ shifter. The shifter adds ALOT to the experience, and it was totally worth the money IMO.

1. Gaming mice tend to be quite pricey if you get a branded one. Unless you're a pro (like super precise fps stuff) I highly recommend Perixx. Its literally half the price, mine's been working great for the past 4 years and its on amazon.
   https://www.amazon.com/Perixx-MX-2000-Programmable-Gaming-Laser/dp/B0083H4NG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1479459405&sr=8-1&keywords=Perrix
   
   
2. As for LED lighting, again HUE+ is quite expensive for the functionality. Go for https://www.amazon.com/Tingkam-RGB-Attached-Controller-Generation/dp/B01HXPPUR2/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479459584&sr=1-5&keywords=led+pc+lighting
   If you want something that just works.
   
   
3. I got myself a drone last year but ended up playing with it like 3-4 times. There's a very high chance that it'll just end up in storage
   
   
4. Personally I recommend a nice tech backpack or satchel. Checkout CaseCrown for tech orientated packs
   https://www.casecrown.com/product-category/bags/
   

I'm using a Retrolink N64 controller, which is honestly just an actual N64 controller rewired to USB. It works pretty flawlessly. I just bought a SNES USB controller today for a Raspberry Pi, but it seems to be a reproduction controller and doesn't feel as durable as an original. It plays just fine, though. I've found that a PS3 or Wii U Pro controller are great for everything, I just liked having a N64 controller for those games.

What about the CM Quickfire Rapid. If you don't mind buying second-hand, they go for $40-50 shipped on /r/mechmarket often enough. Cooler Master is definitely a well-recommended brand around here. Good mechanical keyboards (ex. Ducky, Leopold, Filco, topre) don't tend to go on sale all that often, so that's one thing. I'm not super elitist about quality but I feel like anything between $50-100 brand new is just an awkward price range. It's too expensive to be a "good deal" but not quite expensive enough to get you good quality.

For lesser recommended but still-better-than-Chinese-random we have this Rosewill and this Drevo.

I'm not super knowledgeable about cheap boards since I'm pretty picky about board quality but those should be some good starting points.

Well, a lot of folks on r/mk (myself included) seem to be in agreement that Gateron switches are better than Cherry, and those are "knock-offs" so I dont think anyone will downvote you for not buying "branded" switches.

The few people who have posted about their red dragon boards seem to like them, and as far as backlight goes, that aesthetic is up to you.

What country are you trying to buy this keyboard in? If you search mechanical keyboards on amazon, you see a bunch of cheaper options that do have numpads. If you want a mechanical numpad, jellycomb makes one for $20 USD.

Here is a TOMOKO with numpad for $55 https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Mechanical-Keyboard-Resistant-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01IHVN4GA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478280296&sr=8-2&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+tomoko

Rosewill is $60: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2

If you really want a solid keyboard with a numpad, the coolermaster TK retails in the US for $80 https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00A378L4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478280161&sr=8-2&keywords=coolermaster+keyboard

The Ducky One is another great option if you can save up the $115

You can still use em with the FN layer.

I was also first sceptical about the 60% layout but after i build my own it works good. And also you pretty much only gonna use F5 and maybe F12 ( for BIOS or STEAM screenshots)

Out of all that you wrote i would go with the Magicforce with some nice Gateron Brown switches best bang for your buck.

Or the Drevo Gramr has F keys and for only 40€ good enough https://www.amazon.es/Drevo-84-Tenkeyless-mec%C3%A1nico-retroiluminado/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479331621&sr=8-1&keywords=Drevo+Gramr ( haven't found a portuguese amazon site) But it has Outemu switches not Gateron or MX but for that low of a price i think you can't make much wrong.

Well, not to sound rash or anything but, me personally, I'd send that hard drive back. 5400RPM is gonna lead to some pretty eh read/write speeds; about the same creeping-speeds as a console's hard drive. This is the same price range, 7200RPM, an extra terabyte of storage, and is incredibly quiet (avoid Barracudas; very noisy hard drives). I've got the 2TB version of the P300 and it's great. Very fast, very quiet.

And, I mean... There's about $160 you could've saved ^^^^That ^^^^would've ^^^^given ^^^^you ^^^^better ^^^^performance.

Your build is by no means bad.

It's great, and will last you many years to come. It just missed the mark on cost efficiency.

---

As far as keyboards go, I always recommend Cooler Master. Specifically their new MasterKeys Pro S. Very high quality feel, mechanical Cherry switches, RGB backlighting, standard bottom row keyswitches (easier to replace keycaps), TKL (tenkeyless; no numpad). For something more budget-friendly, the Redragon Kurama is actually pretty slick. Mechanical (Outemu; not as high quality as Cherry, but still good), TKL, doesn't feel too cheap, and it's tenkeyless.

Obviously the MasterKeys is gonna be a much more premium keyboard, but the Kurama is a nice little entry-level mechanical keyboard.

Oh, you're right. I forget sometimes because of the others I have. I actually do have a working Bluetooth keyboard as the one you describe (this one to be precise - QQ-Tech Mini Bluetooth Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf ) but I would like something with a better number layout (I.e, the 4x4 grid instead of the horizontal keyboard numbers). Easier to change a channel without seeing the remote.

But you have great point, as a regular remote would do the trick then, although I need to place the receiver visible, which is why I liked the wireless receiver in the first place

Is there any general consensus on the Drevo Gramr 84 (Outemu Brown Switches) as to how good it is? I hear it's "pretty good for it's price", but I'm not sure if it's the "best" Keyboard I can pick up for that price range. (The often-recommended Magicforce 68 feels just a little too small for me; I really would like a dedicated Function Row and Escape Key). I hear people saying different things about Outemu; some say it's good, some say that they think they're bad. This would be my first Mech Keyboard, so it's not like I've been using Cherries or Gaterons or whatever for a long time and can easily "tell" the difference between the switches.

Also, are there any TKL Mechanical Keyboards with Brown Switches that I should consider (or if any exist...) around the ~$40-50 price range (on Amazon, US)? Drevo Gramr is 75% which I think I can work with (might need to do a little bit of brain rewiring for a week or so when using), but I'd prefer a "standard" TKL layout with some space between the Number Row and Function Row; the Insert/Delete/Home/End/etc. buttons grouped together slightly away from the Keyboard, the Arrow keys by themselves, etc.

Finally--anyone know how often these things go on "sale"? Being a Steam user, it's always about the sales on games which happen often and are heavy discounts...I don't expect any heavy discounts on this Keyboard, but even small discounts are savings. Any wild guesses on if potentially this Keyboard could go on sale (even by like $5-10), or if it's probably just going to stick at $40?

It's this: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=4NCFNXYZ4ONU&keywords=t16000m&qid=1563283031&s=gateway&sprefix=T16%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-4

It's a very good starter system not to expensive but very well made. It was my first Hotas :)

But since Variolamajor wants to sell his warthog i recommend u talk to him first b/c the warthog is way better. If it's to expensive just write me a PM :)

Item linky!

So, at a Christmas party for my then-girlfriend's Hospice agency, it was one of those parties where everyone brings a gift, then names are drawn out of a hat. You can then either select a new gift or take someone's old gift, and if your gift is taken, you get to choose again immediately. Not spiteful at all...

...except another nurse/nurse aid's boyfriend brought a completely wrapped brick of coal as a gag gift. Some folks found it amusing, others did not, but whatever. The game began. Well, a very, very elderly worker's turn came up, and she inadvertently picked up the coal block. She was visibly saddened, and didn't think it was all that funny, but them's the breaks. I distinctly remember hearing the boyfriend laughing his ass off.

I then decided to ruin his fun.

When my turn came up, I strolled right over to the woman. "I could really use that coal, ma'am. Hand it over."

You'd think I offered to pay for her childrens' bills and her own at the same time. Tears in her eyes, she gave me the block of coal and gave me a huge hug. Tons of "aww" sounds came from everyone except the boyfriend, and as the elderly lady went to pick her own gift, I strolled back to my girlfriend, taking a route past the boyfriend.

"Take that, asshole."

Got back to my girlfriend, big kiss received, and turned to see what the elderly lady picked out. It was from the CEO.

$500 gift card to Walmart. No one took it from her.

I'm looking for a stick to play UMvC3 and SFV on PC. This mayflash stick is pretty cheap and is the amazon recommended one, but my buddies who play the games recommend this hori one. I've used the xbox/pc version of the stick that my buds recommend and I really like it, but I want to know if it's worth it. Any suggestions?

Das keyboards get some flak for being overpriced, but at $60 this is a pretty good deal. Now that they have apparently sold out, see below for some alternatives.

EDIT: if you search for Das on /r/mechanicalkeyboards you'll find lots of people talking about how Das keyboards have declined in quality recently and some controversy about the software for one of their new models (not this KB) being Windows only. The keycaps Das uses are also said to be low quality. These issues aside, I personally think this is a good deal. If you are in the market for a full size mechanical keyboard, it's hard to find a better keyboard for the price. Some alternatives that are better but more expensive:

• $80: iKBC CD108 w/ MX Clear Switches
  
• $90 for full-size, $80 for tenkeyless: Cooler Master MasterKeys S
  
• $40, but 60% layout not full-sized: Magicforce68
  
  EDIT 2: as /u/SolixTanaka pointed out below, the Magicforce keyboards have questionable quality control. It's probably not fair to say they are better than Das keyboards. Some users love them and have no problems, others find their board crapping out after a few months (or sooner). Buyer beware. I like them because they are a cheap way to try out a 60% layout if that's something that interests you but you're unsure if you'll like it.

Well for $800. I'd recommend upgrading the components of your computer first, then spending a ton on a keyboard (Since it won't affect performance). Here's a super high-quality massdrop custom keyboard for $180, but here's a RedDragon K552 keyboard for $45. As you see, there are many inexpensive options, but also expensive options. I'd still go over and head to /r/MechanicalKeyboards and ask for recommendations and see what they can offer you (as im not a specialist on this), I wish you the best of luck!

[MassDrop]

[RedDragon]

Edit: Formatting

If you're happy with ANSI layout and want a budget board, then any of the clone boards like the Qisan will be fine. Qisan also make the Magicforce which is a fantastic budget board owned by a lot of users here.

This is potentially an even better option, since it appears to have no non-standard keys (excluding right shift, which is easily replaceable) and is cheaper.

If you are looking for ISO Layout and don't mind spending, check out the Winkeyless B.Mini which can be built and customised to your liking :)

> ... having a structure in my living room that looks like half a go kart is contrary to the freedom that VR offers

That's not the purpose of VR though: The purpose of VR is to simulate an experience as accurately as possible. So, for example:

• If you were playing a VR game that simulated being in an empty room, then playing it in a real-life empty room would be ideal.
  
• If you were playing a VR game that simulated being in a car, then playing it in a cockpit would be idea.
  
  So the "ideal" room for VR depends entirely on the type of game you're playing it. Heck, if you were playing a VR game that simulated swimming, then a room with a swimming pool would be ideal.
  
  Anyway, the cheapest possible PS4 wheel you can get that is worth owning is the Thrustmaster T150:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B014US02ZA/
  

In general, Das, for some reason or another, tend to be a little high-priced for the quality of the board. They're not bad, but you can find better for simliar pricing.

That particular Das you linked to uses some off-brand switch instead of Cherry or Gateron (Cherry is the original that they all copy, Gateron makes a well respected and popular clone).

For example, this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is cheaper, uses Cherry switches and has programmable white backlighting. And this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is only a little more expensive, uses Cherry switches and has programmable RGB lighting.

And Form Factor (from your other post) describes the physical size and layout of a keyboard. Full/100% is your standard keyboard. TKL is the next step smaller, and cuts off the numberpad. 60% is when you take a TKL and chop off the Arrow/Navigation keys and the F1-12 row, leaving just the alphanumeric characters and the surrounding modifiers.

Those are about the three most common form factors, but there are others as well (40% for those looking for something really portable and compact. 65% for those who want a 60% but can't live without the arrow keys.).

I believe it is, but it is not as strong as say the T300. The other negative is you can't replace the wheel with other thrustmaster wheels.

The T300 offers 1080 degrees of rotation and the TX offers 900. If 900 degrees is enough for you, you could try this maybe?

You could upgrade the wheel if you want in the future or if you want a better wheel to start you could go with this.

I'd personally go with the first option since you get the shifter and better pedal set. There are plenty of options to go with though. I see a lot of people suggest fanatec pedals. I have the T3PA pedals and they work great for me. Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions.

Alright tomorrow is the first time I'll really be diving in. I've had the game for a long time now but could not get used to the controls with keyboard and mouse At least not to an extent I felt was fun. But all you seem to really love the game so took some of my cash back money and bought.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2PE8CZ

So any advice for getting started with the game or even the controls would be appreciated.

Rosewills are cheap but not pretty. Probably the best for your value. wasdkeyboards.com is kinda cool too.

The three switches you see recommend the most (and for good reason. Look up the other ones if you must) are brown, red, and blue

Blue is marketed towards typists. It is very loud and there is a snap or full on click when you press down a key. These will wake up people in the same room as you and I wouldn't suggest these without sound dampening o rings if you live with others.

Red are marketed towards gamers. The most comparable to a rubber dome, they just go straight down with no click. Very quiet.

Browns are an in between and my personal favourite. They're similar to blues with a lighter "bump" instead of a click. Decently loud.

Also, simple questions thread.


Edit- link

>-Does the throttle connect to one of the joysticks? And does it require its own USB port? So 3 total for the two sticks and throttle. Or does it piggy back off one of the joysticks?

The sticks and the throttle each have their own USB ports. If you get the Thrustmaster TFRP Pedals you can use the included rj12 cable to plug it directly into the Throttle to save 1 usb port, or you can use a USB cable if you have enough ports, or don't have the Throttle to plug it into.

Again, you'd want to do some research before choosing a pedal set as I know it's not as clear cut as the discussion of sticks and throttles in the budget arena.

>-if I did not get the throttle, the sticks each have a little slider throttle on them right? I think I saw the little slider in the middle on the photos. And that can be used as the throttle?

Yes, the sticks have a small slider on them which is handy and is enough to get the job done while you decide how much you would enjoy owning a throttle or not.

I started with the two sticks and picked up the throttle when it was released. I'm glad I own both dual sticks and the throttle as I enjoy both and having a throttle allows me to enjoy other flight sims/games with flying things as well (DCS, War thunder, ARMA, Etc.. Etc..)

Edit: Here is the pack with Stick+Throttle+Pedals: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ

I'm looking for a tenkeyless Cherry MX Brown keyboard, ideally with at least white/blue if not RGB back light. I'd also be happy with a similar switch like Red but still with a white/blue or RGB backlight.

I've found this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MRGQ6B2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2R1ECRASRXP6B&coliid=I3P854KGVKHOIF&psc=1

but this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2R1ECRASRXP6B&coliid=IHZLMX6QT77CB&th=1

Has also caught my eye. The Corsair Vengeance K65 seems almost perfect without the backlight or led component which may be ok. Any recommendations?

Edit: I bough the Corsair Vengeance K65 short as a halfway point to the CM Masterkey Pro S. It is sweet.

If those are a bit too expensive and you don't wanna spend much, I'd look into budget RGB boards
Redragon maybe? I personally own a lot of boards and my K552 is my go to.
Here's the RGB model: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552-RGB-Mechanical-Keyboard-Construction/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=redragon+rgb&qid=1566443725&s=gateway&sr=8-3


You're not going to find a board that's not Corsair/Razer that's compatible with their software as the software is chip specific from the manufacturer.


My only tip though is simply not to tie yourself down to a certain brand unless you're going for a certain style, look, feel, etc...
If you're looking for these brands other options would be.
Corsair K68: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit-Resistant/dp/B079H7N61M?th=1

Razer BlackWidow TE Chroma v2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744NVPJ8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0744NVPJ8&pd_rd_w=q8uoE&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=oZTEt&pf_rd_r=EKDCKH87CWANFM9QFTHX&pd_rd_r=0c5fe876-fd28-48b6-b925-77f1bee46ff8&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFEMFBVQTRQS1dOWDkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxOTIwNjNTN1lCM1FFTEZHQzEmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDU4Mzc1NDFRV1pYTE40Q0RXWFAmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl


Hope I've been of some help, best of luck.

Im currently thinking about buying my first mech board, something around $50. I've only tried greens and browns before and really liked them. The keyboards I was looking at are the [Drevo 84] (https://www.amazon.com/Drevo-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480668408&sr=8-1&keywords=drevo), Qisan 68 , [Corsair k65] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Compact-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00DOWCQ0I/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480667218&sr=8-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard) , [Corsair k70 refurb] (http://www.corsair.com/en-us/corsair-gaming-k70-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown-ch-9000516-na-refurbished), and the [Ajazz ak33] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ajazz-Geek-AK33-Backlit-USB-Wired-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-for-PC-Laptop-/121991387736?var=&hash=item1c6740da58:m:m8UdK8NaQRLhr0Zm2pw3NJA). I dont mind not having the numpad, but I'm not sure which of these boards is the best. Also the ak33 seems really appealing for the price but I'm not sure how loud the switches will be in comparison to browns. Any help will be appreciated!

I've been looking at low-profile compact keyboard options recently, and to my surprise it's proving trickier than expected, so I'm asking for suggestions

Criteria are as following:

• Low-profile and generally thin
  
• Doesn't necessarily have to be mechanical but is to be used for a lot of typing
  
• Function key row
  
• US-style layout (wide LShift, Horizontal Enter key)
  
• Normal-sized arrow keys (not Apple-style half-height)
  
• Either normal TKL or 84-key - needs Home, End, Delete keys
  
• Can have or not have backlight^((so long as it's not always-on and shining like a thousand suns))
  
• Can be wired or wireless
  
• <=$150; shipping from US
  
  Am currently using a Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Desktop keyboard. The keys feel really nice, and the layout is good, but so far the mid-keyboard gap isn't quite clicking with me (I've pressed Y with my left hand for at least 10 years now, and here it's on the right side) and their other keyboards with same type of keys are all full-sized.
  
  I have a Logitech K380 lying around, and it's alright (no high standards, mostly used with mobile devices), but not a fan of squished arrow keys.
  
  Current considerations:
  
  
• Sharkoon Purewriter TKL
  
• HAVIT HV-KB390L
  
• Thinkpad Compact Keyboard
  
  Update: Settled on HAVIT. Sharkoon seems OK too but only ships from Germany (?) and is a little thicker; Thinkpad is generally highly regarded but the layout is a bit oddish (Fn is left-most key) and my life can do without the perspectives of cleaning any more laptop-esque (inset) keyboards.

I've been playing a lot more Android games now that I've upgraded to a Pixel 2 XL. I love this phone. I have very big hands (I'm 6'7"... generally most things are too small for me) and even when I customise the button layout for, say, My Boy! or My Old Boy! I still find my hands getting cramped after a while.

I have been looking at controllers that allow phones to clip on, and there's quite a few on Amazon Canada that look good. I am leaning towards the GameSir G3s with included bracket, GameSir T1s (slightly more expensive for some reason?) or the "Mad Giga". I also was considering the Bonusis STK7003 though it's more expensive and looks like it might be flimsier. Those are all generally within my budget -- $30-45ish.

When I used my Vita a lot, I had to buy a handgrip attachment for it, and even then I would still get hand cramps. It's very difficult to tell from the pictures which of these is the largest. As reference, I really like the size of the Steam Controller, which I've used a lot, and PS3 controllers are good for decent lengths of time as well (though I do eventually cramp up with those as well).

In any case, any recommendations or information about which of these controller types are good for large hands would be greatly appreciated! I could potentially just buy a controller-grip shaped case, but I think I'd prefer to actually have a full size controller.

Do you definitely need a numpad..? If not, I would encourage you to wait a bit for this new simplistic Masterkeys from Coolermaster, as it will be definitely worth it's money. Multiple switches to pick from, great build quality and great keycaps. Also standard layout that you can customize later if you want to, macros and ability to change into Dvorake/Colemak on a firmware level.

Newish to mechanical keyboards and have been doing my research. I can't decide which keyboard to choose and was hoping you could help me decide.

• MK Disco TKL White Keycap Edition (KBT Brown) $119 (MechanicalKeyboards.com)
  
  
• Ducky One TKL Blue LED (Brown Cherry MX) $99 (MechanicalKeyboards.com)
  
  
• MasterKeys Pro L w/ White LED (Cherry MX Brown ) $109.99 (Amazon)
  
  I was considering the Masterkeys Pro S over the Pro L but the brown switch version is currently priced at ~$156 over the blue switch version at $99. I'm guessing it's really popular so the price keeps going up due to Amazons algorithm. The RGB version of the Pro L with Brown switches is ~$136 but I'm not sure I want to pay $26 for some pretty lights. The RGB Ducky one is at $140 but then I'm paying $40 over the blue version just for some fancy colors. I was thinking if I wan't pretty lights the MK Disco seems to be the best value.
  
  I think I'm leaning towards the disco. Also, if there's anything I'm missing or you have a suggestion other than these, let me know.

Hi! If you have an old PS3 controller, that could work for ya, might be buggy at times tho.

I'm assuming you want it to be wireless. I'm also assuming you have Prime or access to a Prime account:

cheap/simple:
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Controller-BEBONCOOL-Wireless-Emulator/dp/B01N8WWOE5/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1501595196&sr=1-3&keywords=bluetooth+controller

bit nicer:
https://www.amazon.com/GameSir-Bluetooth-Wireless-Controller-Android-Smartphone/dp/B019H5II8Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1501595196&sr=1-5&keywords=bluetooth+controller

controller that will ALSO work with your phone and has a mount for it:
https://www.amazon.com/BEBONCOOL-Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Emulator/dp/B0171JGYF2/ref=sr_1_6?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1501595196&sr=1-6&keywords=bluetooth+controller

8bitdo, some of the nicest out there. check out their other ones too, they have ones that look like stock NES (with extra buttons) and stock SNES controllers:
https://www.amazon.com/NES30-Pro-Bluetooth-Controller-Dynamic/dp/B01LW7JJPJ/ref=sr_1_7?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1501595196&sr=1-7&keywords=bluetooth+controller

Good Luck!

Still using a cheap Gear Head wireless keyboard, and it's decent enough for now. I'd like to replace it with a good mechanical eventually, but I'd rather buy games than save for it apparently. The mouse that came with the keyboard was absolute dogshit, so I replaced it with a Perixx-MX-2000B. I also got a nice rigid mouse pad for it too. The response is amazing. And to think that I used to have a dirty peasant problem using controllers all the time to game. That mouse helped me correct this issue.

I recently got a new mouse for £24. When I was looking at what to get, I decided to put my hatred for Razer aside for a moment. The DeathAdder seemed like the best for me, and I noted down its price of ~£40. It was only later that I found the Perixx mouse. The customisation in the software is very impressive, and the settings are saved to the actual mouse rather than the computer. You can uninstall the mouse's software even, if you like. I feel like I've gotten something worth three times more than the Razer mouse, and it was only 60% of the cost.

My friend has one of their headsets, and although it is alright (low volume, iffy sound, great mic) it cost him £60. I'm sure even the £24 Plantronics headsets on Amazon are as good.

As for the keyboards, you'll be lectured dare you show one on /r/MechanicalKeyboards. They use knock-off switches which they (naturally) claim are better, but I'll take Cherry's switches over their's any day.

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC


$60, Nice sturdy aluminum frame, brown switch, full size, and feels fantastic.

rgb can be turned off and adjusted via software. use it every day and love it. they're a pretty popular entry level mechanical keyboard that's extremely hard to beat because at $60 they sell every switch type and they feel fantastic. Hell they had a compact red switch keyboard for $30. if you want others just head to amazon and Seach "Redragon red switch" or whatever else

G402 is currently on sale for £28.99

Havent used the personally 402 but the 502 served me for a few years and its a decent mouse and the 402 is almost exactly the same but it doesnt have a free scrolling mouse wheel.

Ajazz 75% mechanical keyboard for £23.99

I have an ajazz ak33 and have been using it for the last 3(?) years its very reliable and the knock off blue switches that it uses are as good as those on my old corsair keyboard.

Check out rocketjumpninja for mouse reviews though as you might want a smaller mouse (like the g203 which is similarly priced) that suites your hand size

also check out r/buildapcsales for current sales on PC hardware people will link peripherals as well and you might snag a nice deal.

Honestly, if this is your first stick, you aren't sure if you'll like it yet. Don't spend a shit ton of money. I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019MFPLC0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517491228&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mayflash+f500
People say that you need a controller plugged in all the time if you play on console but because tekken has legacy support I've never had to do that. Nor have I had to on SFV or dragon ball fighterz. Once I realized I wanted it to definitely use a fighting stick I swapped out the buttons and stick for qanba parts that work just fine. In fact its amazing and overall I spent as much as a normal qanba.

HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u6ZkDb2BY0EZ1

I can third this is great for the quest. Super easy to install: https://youtu.be/RmnPnS4NOYo

You'll need a ring of some sort and about 3 strips of Velcro. Makes audio sooo nice! 😃

This now gives you a good excuse to do the mod!

Just bought the ps4 one at best buy today
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Flight-Stick-PS4/dp/B015PJ68BK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482985967&sr=8-1&keywords=thrustmaster+hotas+ps4

The hotas x seems to be the more popular option but one of the reviews on the ps4 one said there was more degrees of freedom for movement. I haven't used it yet but I'm sure you can't go wrong with the cheaper stick.

Ok then your gonna love to have one, don’t worry I have been on console the majority of my life so I feel you. I am gonna send you a link of my mechanical keyboard, it honestly the best cheapest mechanical keyboard with cherry mx blue switches, which are really good. The only con/issue is the fact that the keyboard makes a lot of sound when typing or playing. So there the link: Reddragon kumara rgb

I was talking about the Vive Deluxe strap. I remember it being more comfortable then the original Vive strap and easier to tighten as it was just a knob. This was great when many people were trying it. Just need to figure out a good way to attach it.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-Rollover/dp/B0722GG88M You will not be able to swap caps, but that will be the closest to scissor switches.

​

Rubber domes, and even scissor switches are a type of rubber dome, have a tactile feeling at the start of your press. Browns are probably closer in feel, but have a lot more travel than any scissor switch. You can buy a Coolermaster Masterkeys S PBT within budget off Amazon, then buy some nice caps, but the feel will be different from a laptop keyboard. Many of us get a second keyboard just to use with our laptops just so we do not have to use the laptop keyboard. An Anne Pro 2 is a pretty good wireless model.

Like others mentioned, it doesn’t necessarily matter. A lot of it is personal preference.

I would generally recommend a mechanical keyboard of some kind over a membrane- they tend to be a lot more accurate in their actuations. As far as specifics go, there’s a number of amazing options, including building your own...

That being said, my personal favorite keyboard, by far, is Havit Low Profile board- it’s not as customizable as a Cherry style switch, but it’s the most accurate, consistent, and easy to use keyboard I’ve ever touched. It’s also half the price of a Ducky or similar style board (which are excellent boards as well, at least most of them.) The actuation point is incredibly small, and I’ve never once had an issue with ghosting, no matter how quickly I’m pressing.

HAVIT Mech Keyboard](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722GG88M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4XTODbGTV8HN0)

Ok, here is the run-down of what I use.

1. NES and SNES emulator: Higan
   
   
2. NES USB Controller
   
   
3. SNES USB Controller
   
   
4. Where I get my ROMs (the games): http://coolrom.com/
   
   There are many different emulators you can use to play NES and SNES game ROMs. If you have trouble with the one I suggested, just do a google search and find a different one to try. Also, those are the exact controllers I use and they both work great and feel pretty authentic. However, you can get a converter kit to usb for either original system controller.
   
   Have fun!

>How do you know which one to get


The keyboard, switchtype and keycaps all come down to personal preference.
I'd recommend you research the most common MX switch types, and possibly get a switch tester to get a general feel for the individual switches before settling on a board.


>do you have to build the keyboard piece by piece?


Short answer, no.

Longer answer, a lot of keyboard enthusiasts choose to build their own keyboards with individually sourced high quality and sometimes sought after and rare parts, in order to build a keyboard to their exact preference. As a first time buyer, buying a stock board from a vendor or shop should do you just fine.


The Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L seems to fit your specifications perfectly, and with the Cherry MX Brown version sitting at $89 on Amazon right now, you're getting quite a good deal.

Never heard of tecware, but ducky and vortex make great keyboards.

Also you should stop thinking of things as being good for gaming, that's all marketing. Getting a mechanical keyboard with specific switches isn't going to make you any better at playing games. Just try and research what you might like as far as personal preference. Anyone saying "blues are for typing, reds are for gaming" is just buying into marketing.

My biggest recommendation for stock mechanical keyboards would be Coolermaster Masterkeys series. Like this keyboard.

It's got PBT keycaps that are a denser kind of plastic and the lettering will never wear off. There's no shinethrough though if that matters to you.

Let me grab a link....

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_13

This is a great starter pack with solid controllers for all three bits. I had this to start and was very, very pleased.

I eventually replaced the stick with a Warthog, which I also love. I will next replace the throttle with the Warthog throttle. After I get out of ship debt on my credit card ;)

Wolphilink interface is also what I use with my Android tablet. Some of the apps I use with this setup:

DroidPSK
DroidSSTV
DroidRTTY
AndFLMsg (download from Sourceforge - this is not in the Play Store)
WSPR Beacon (Tx only...good for testing propagation)
Robot36 (SSTV receive-only...good for when ISS does SSTV)
Rucksack Radio Tool (again, 3rd party - not in Play Store -good for SOTA)

Most of these are free, but not all...i don't mind paying for apps like these, though.

This isn't quite as convenient as using a Windows or Linux laptop to do digital modes, but for a go-bag and doing SOTA/RaDAR and camping it beats the snot out of carrying a laptop and a SignaLink. I use a small, handheld Bluetooth Keyboard-mouse...something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Keyboard-Touchpad-Android-QQ-Tech/dp/B00BALK9CM

If you want a demo on how this is used, check out the SurvivalTech Nord YouTube Channel. OH8STN, who also posts here occasionally, has really good videos on utilizing the Wolphilink...among other interfaces.

I can recommend my setup:
Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari Alcantara Integral Edition

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015KJ0SES/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487172453&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+t+300

Get a extra shifter like the TH8A

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487172565&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster&dpPl=1&dpID=41AEMeEQwUL&ref=plSrch

SimRig GT Omega Pro RS9

http://usa.gtomegaracing.com/racing-simulator-cockpits/pro-racing-simulator-cockpit/gt-omega-pro-racing-simulator-basic-rs9-seat-canada

Total cost: 1070$

Of course you could get even better options on the market. But IMO it is the best compromise between cost, reliability and quality.

Thanks! I spend most days here, so I strive to make it a place I enjoy.

Desk is from World Market. It looks like they have a 40% off deal going on right now!

Ultrawide is the Dell Alienware AW3418DW.

Top monitor is a dell 4k 27" I bought a few years ago. Great color reproduction.

Monitor stand || Micca MB42X speakers || Keyboard || Mouse || Lucky cat ;)

Hello guys looking for reference which is better from these 2 keyboards or if I should opt for another option. I took the redragon as an option because someone told me that its cheaper than the glorious and offers the same.

Redragon k556 devarajas


Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard


Thanks

>The wireless connection only worked for up to 1.5 metres or so

Yeah, the 2.4 GHz band is typically very polluted these days. I get the same limitation from my Logitech Unifying Receiver. In my home theater I ended up running an active USB extension cable closer to my seats and attaching a USB hub back there. My HID dongles are plugged in across the room from my actual PC. I cheated. :)

​

>One LED (one of the F-functions) didn't display red and there didn't correctly display the RGB colours.

Hey, I think I saw your Amazon review. You're famous! Mine doesn't suffer this issue. But the Sink87G is dirt cheap in the mech keyboard world. I guess one is more likely to encounter a lemon in the sub $100 price range, as you and I both have experienced.

​

Edit: I just received my replacement Sink87G. As far as I can tell, it's free of defects this time. Still needs a little break-in, but I see no non-working LEDs, and all the keys work as intended.

​

>I didn't find it that much better to type/game on than a 'normal' keyboard.

This hobby is definitely a solution to a first world problem. I'm old enough to remember when buckling spring keyboards were common. First time I used a membrane keyboard in a computer lab, my first impression was "wtf was done to this poor keyboard?" I switched computers and was horrified to find they were all that spongy and obstinate. Of course, I've used some truly horrible keyboards in my time -- the kind where, if you saw them, you'd wonder if the girl whose water broke at that workstation made it to the hospital in time. Using something so horrible really makes one appreciate the finer things.

If you grew up with membranes, then you probably consider it normal punching the keys until they bottom out. That's completely understandable. And modern membranes have improved, some incorporating a tactile snap reminiscent of what you probably felt with your Outemu Browns. I'm not surprised you didn't find the experience a profound improvement.

Of course among mech keyboard fans, there are many who do not like brown switches, but instead prefer linear reds or clicky blues, stiffer linear blacks, vintage Alps, or Filco buckling springs. I bet if you got a keyboard with red switches and practiced for a day or two typing without bottoming out, you might come to appreciate the speed benefit over your Microsoft keyboard.

Hey, I wonder if you'd like low profile switches, something like the Havit HV-KB395L (low profile blues) or this Magic Refiner MK10 (low profile reds)? They've got less travel than typical mechs, and may feel more familiar while still an improvement over your Microsoft keyboard.

I've been quite happy with my Redragon K556. They're not true Cherry MX switches, but typing still feels good. General construction feels good. And the RGB is programmable so you can tone it down if you don't want a crazy disco party. It's $60 USD, but presumably a little cheaper across the pond.

Get one of these, then get a few of these, put a SNES emulator on this bad boy along with your favorite games, and you have a modern-day SNES.

I know it's the same as inserting a cartridge into the console, but as quality as emulation as nowadays (especially for 32-bit consoles and older), you won't be able to tell the difference.

Edit: I wanted to add that if you don't mind using a controller layout that isn't identical to the SNES layout, you can use a Nintendo DS and PSP models to play SNES games on the go. Alternatively, if you have an old console, you can softmod them. I did that with my Wii, but if you really want a powerhouse emulation machine, an original Xbox is the way to go. If you have any questions man let me know, I've done my fair sure of emulating so I can give you a few pointers if needed.

There is no cheap way to do this, you are looking at about $300-$400. It's a great idea though, I have an old NES that just crapped out on me about a month ago, I may try this too.

I did find this instructable, that should give you a good starting point. Amazon has USB SNES controllers and NES controllers.

After you built the hardware I would suggest loading up some sort of Linux distro, if you are new to linux I would suggest Ubuntu. The emulator software is easy to install with that as well, FCEUltra for NES only, or bsnes for NES, SNES, and GameBoy, GBC and GBA. MAME will work for arcade games.

But if you want a truly portable emulator get a Dingoo.

Yup it's available on Steam! I'm actually on PC myself.

If you're interested, this is the stick I bought.

There's an infographic that puts the previous version of this stick in shit tier, so don't get confused. This new one is supposed to be great for newbies since it doesn't break the bank, and it can be modded with Sanwa parts easily.

I don't have any experience with fighting sticks, but it feels great to me. If I do my inputs purposefully, it all registers the way I expect so that's probably a good sign.

I haven't bought the game yet but it looks really cool, I hope to be able to use these peripherals when I buy it. Thanks for working toward a quick bug fix

​

I have a Thrustmaster HOTAS

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1549048613&sr=1-1&keywords=thrustmaster

​

And a Gladiator flight stick

https://www.amazon.com/Gladiator-Joystick-Flight-Simulator-Controller-Stick/dp/B01G6GT49O/ref=sr_1_16?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1549048659&sr=1-16&keywords=flight+stick

There are new low-profile switches that came out recently from Cherry and Kailh, and they sound like what you want. There isn't a lot of board selection yet though. If you can tolerate the noise of blue switches, I think you'd like this one for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-HV-KB390L/dp/B0722GG88M/

I'm using a Noppoo Choc Mini with 35g Gateron Clears, and that sounds like another option. Super light switches (the lightest you can buy), no scratchiness at all, but the keycaps are a bit tall compared to chiclets. It's about $60, I tried finding a link for that one but it looks like Newegg is out of stock now.

By the way, there are lots of people who feel similarly about chiclets. I type fast (~130wpm) and play Starcraft 2 competitively, and haven't found anything that works as well for me as an old ThinkPad membrane keyboard, despite a tour of mech keyboards. Am hoping these low profile switches will work for me, but blues are too noisy.

I hope to spend this weekend with my partner. He only has time to see me on Saturdays and Sundays, and I miss him all the time, so I spend all week looking forward to the weekend. I love the guy like crazy. 1.21 Gigawatts crazy.

In the unlikely event that I actually win one of these contests, I'd finally like to upgrade my mouse.

Thanks for the contest.

Sticks like this or this are definitely "not good enough". If you read the associated reviews and they speak positively it is almost always in context of "budget" and "easily modded".

If you've never played on generic parts vs. good ones you'd be surprised how big the difference is. It isn't just some weird snake oil elitism.

My vote is for getting the original hardware, then an emu PC, and lastly a clone system.

There are some pretty cool USB controllers out there, like this one:

SNES Retro USB Super Nintendo Controller by Tomee
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034ZOAO0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_sEcPub02TG5DP

In this photo, you will see (bottom-up/left-right):

1. Ikea: LINNMON / ALEX Table, white/gray -
   https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S89047259/; for providing a surface for most of the following listed after this.
   
   
2. Edifier W855BT Bluetooth Headphones - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4TZEEB/; for my bus rides to and from work.
   
   
3. HyperX Cloud Stinger Gaming Headset - https://smile.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Stinger-Gaming-Headset/dp/B01L2ZRYVE; this headset is connected to my computer, for gaming or if I just feel like using these instead of the speakers I will mention again sometime in the future.
   
   
4. The Anchor - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/; this headphone mount sticks under the Ikea table I had mentioned earlier. Once mounted, I rest my two headphones on to them. When not in use, of course.
   
   
5. Generic, black folding TV Tray - from Fancy Red Walmart; I use this tray to hold phone, drinks, or whatever else I'd like it to hold.
   
   
6. Green bowl with spoon-shaped silverware, with a folder paper towel undereath - this was gifited to me, thanks Auntie!; before this photo was taken, this bowl was used to house Cocoa Pebbles and Whole Milk. It no longer houses said things, as they are now digesting in my vessel.
   
   
7. Pint glass - from Frederick Meyer; this pint glass was most recently used to hold drinking water poured from my Britta pitcher, with water that comes from my kitchen sink.
   
   
8. SONGMICS 3-tier Storage Cube Closet Organizer Shelf - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDR3HHG/
   
   
9. SimpleHouseware Foldable Cube Storage Bin, Dark Grey - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GKPGJH/; Items 8 and 9 are used together for storage of items unrelated to this posting.
   
   
10. Edifier R1280T Powered Bookshelf Speakers - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016P9HJIA/; these are speakers that I connect to my computer. They output sound.
    
    
11. Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L - https://smile.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01ITE93OM; this is my keyboard. It has fancy white LEDs that light up when you press down on whatever key you press down on. It also has Cherry MX Browns.
    
    
12. Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller - this is the controller I use when I want to use a controller for gaming
    
    
13. Logitech G400 Optical Gaming Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-Mouse-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216; my second-favorite mouse - with my first being the Logitech MX518. I love the shape of these mouses.
    
    
14. Generic mouse pad I got off of Amazon. My mouse doesn't work without it.
    
    
15. Bluetooth speaker that I use to connect to my phone and bring to the bathroom with me when I take a shower.
    
    
16. CORSAIR CARBIDE 275R Mid-Tower Gaming Case - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K1W3KB/; inside this case is my computer. What's inside the case doesn't matter for this post, as this is about my battlestation, not my computer.
    
    
17. A Bounty paper towel roll. The Quicker Picker Upper.
    
    
18. Talking Dalek Bank - https://smile.amazon.com/Underground-Toys-Doctor-Talking-Dalek/dp/B009Y7F744; this Dalek holds my change, while giving me threatening threats.
    
    
19. A penguin.
    
    
20. A flashlight. I use this when I take my dog out for walks and it is dark out. Because I don't have night vision.
    
    
21. Below the flashlight is a container that once held M&M's. The lid of the container is shaped like the blue M&M named Blue's face. The container is currently empty.
    
    
22. A lunch box that looks like a TARDIS - https://smile.amazon.com/Doctor-Who-TARDIS-Tote-Gift/dp/B0093DJ7LS; I don't actually use this for lunch. I use it to hold random things. Yes, it's bigger on the inside.
    
    
23. ASUS VZ27AQ Monitor - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HMSZ4S/; this is a 27-inch monitor that outputs video at a resolution of 2560x1140.

I just got a Redragon K556 off Amazon and couldn't be happier. Full aluminum case (that feels awesome btw). On board memory and completely programmable through the keyboard, but comes with software which I appreciated. Completely modular plug and play switches. Fits any 3 pin cherry mx or knockoff. Tested myself with Cherrys and comes with Outemu browns. You'll have to grab "LED"/"RGB" versions of Gateron or Outemu switches off ebay though if you wan't the LED's to shine through. Cherry doesn't seem to make a shine through switch that I could find. I got these on the way. You'll notice the slit on the bottom that lets the light shine through from behind the switch.

I didn't really want a logo on my board, but at least its a cool looking dragon and not a written name. And for only $60 it left me a lot of extra cash left over for the switches I wanted and ordering some custom caps.

Thanks appreciate the feedback.. Funny you say all that because now that i spent a little more time on research i found the Amazon remote app. Also found a 3rd party app (wukong remote). Do you have any experience with that one? I will try tonight when i get home from work. Wukong remote even has a quick launch for apps!!!
Was considering this (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BALK9CM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=A1VCRDPIX0NQ5B) remote, but will hold off til i try amazon remote and Wukong Remote.. I will keep you posted if interested....

Thanks again for taking the time to reply

If your budget is sufficiently flexible:

I think the T300 Alcantara is the best bang for your buck near that price range.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1497120210&sr=1-3&keywords=t300&th=1

There is a big jump in performance once you upgrade to T300 level. Fanatec and the newer Thrustmaster wheels will perform better, but not in a radically different way. You won't get qualitatively better performance (to my knowledge) unless you spend upwards of 1000 on a direct drive wheel.

The Alcantara wheel has an amazing feel and size for the price. The pedals are also decent, and the most of the more expensive wheels (newer thrustmaster, fanatec, direct drive) don't come with pedals.

Depending on your budget, you may want to put off buying the shifter for later. I don't think I have a shifter recommendation, since I think that depends on your preferences. Eg, Sturdiness, ease of mode switching, shorter throw (clubsport) Longer throw, handbrake option (th8a)

Are you on PC? Is the Thrustmaster T150 (PC and PS4) or Thrustmaster TMX (PC and Xbox one) too expensive? This is as budget as I'd go if you want brand new. The downside is you only get two pedals but do have paddle shifters. If this is too pricy try searching craigslist around your area for any used Logitech Driving Force GT's (two pedals, no h-shifter, but has a sequential shifter), or a Logitech g27 (three pedals, comes with h-shifter).

If you do want three pedals and an h-shifter, then I think the Logitech g29 (PC and PS4) or Logitech g920 (PC and Xbox one) are the current best value as far as brand new. With craigslist you can possibly find better deals locally, but it can be a crapshoot.

>But when I play games, I can feel the heat on the keyboard while typing which is real bad

I noticed that when I was playing Quake Champions. My solution was to use a small external, low-profile mechanical keyboard. Normally, I would use Cherry red switch keyboards for gaming, but the low-profile, Kailh blue switches are a pleasure to use. Very easy to carry inside of a backpack with your Helios 300. You should also be using a wireless mouse. I use the Logitech G305 wireless mouse since I am ambidextrous.

Hey sorry for taking so long to respond, I was answering these questions at work and then had to go home, and work today has been much more insane than usual.


Anyway I took a look at the keyboard you linked, everything on amazon seemed legit about it so I didn't find any red flags. I bought a budget mechanical keyboard and the 3 or 4 days I bought it treated me well. The only thing I will say is that if you buy one, take a look at the packaging it comes in.

Mine came in a box with a bunch of manufacturing info from China, including a ton of info about the hazardous elements that they keyboard had "allowable limits by China's standards".

So it performed well, but I'm not getting cancer to save some cash. A lot of the reviews for the one you linked seem to indicate that it's alright though.

If you can live with a lack of a few features (no USB port on the keyboard to allow you to plug stuff into it and save a USB port/have one closer to you, no wrist guard, probably less function keys), then a budget option is a nice inbetween to get the tactile response of the mech keyboard without having to pay the full price.

For reference, I use the mx brown version of this for work:

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-RK-9000V2/dp/B00S5E4KH2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492126942&sr=8-3&keywords=Rosewill+mx+Brown


It has no backlighting, no USB port, no wrist guard, no macro keys, but I am almost positive I could murder Iron Man with it and then get in a quick match of RL. If you're already not used to having all the fanciness, not having it on a keyboard probably won';t change much for you.


Hope this helps and glad I could be of service!

(Btw I included the Amazon.co.uk link last time cause I figured UK Amazon would be more reflective of the stock available to you if you're using the euro symbol, if not then I can find stuff on US Amazon)

Well you could just buy a Raspberry Pi, follow the instructions to turn it into an emu device, and buy a USB game controller for cheaper than Ouya. Ouya makes it a lot less complicated, but you will pay a premium for it and the controller isn't exactly worth the $100 ...

Here's what you'd need to do the RPi setup (I use one myself, works amazingly):

Raspberry Pi Model B Console ($35) : http://www.newark.com/raspberry-pi/raspbrry-modb-512m/model-b-assembled-board-only/dp/43W5302?mckv=s2SHZ9lAe|pcrid|33870392901|plid|&CMP=KNC-GPLA

4GB SD Card: $8

USB Controller: (Found these USB SNES controllers for cheap on Amazon) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZOAO0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=lifehackeramzn-20&ascsubtag=[referrer|www.google.com[type|link[postId|498561192[asin|B0034ZOAO0[authorId|5716493564230329059

Keyboard

Here's a full tut, http://lifehacker.com/how-to-turn-your-raspberry-pi-into-a-retro-game-console-498561192

I'm not trying to bash Ouya, however from personal experience I think that it's important you weigh the two options and figure out which is best for you :)

I'd say the T150 is your best bet. I'm not sure if you're in the US or how the price would change depending on region, but the T150 Pro is on sale for $220. Comes with the T3PA pedals instead of the regular two-pedal board, it's great if you plan on using the TH8A shifter with your wheel. If not, the regular T150 and a DIY brake mod should do the job just nicely.

This keyboard has basically the same switches as the new Tesoro gram, these are Kailh ML switches. They have 3mm of travel compared to normal switches 4mm.

I own one of these and honestly it's pretty amazing, it's way better than I was expecting.

Alternatively, a KBD75 with Kailh speeds would work for you too.

The Thrustmaster HOTAS X is a very inexpensive HOTAS at only $50 USD.

It's a perfectly serviceable unit, though it's rather lacking in buttons (meaning the need for either the keyboard for more buttons or a more complicated control scheme, like ths) and is somewhat imprecise. It also has a bit of annoyance in the form of the fairly short cable connecting the stick and throttle. This means it only uses a single USB port, but also prevents you from doing things like mounting it to the arms of a chair unless you lengthen the cable by splicing it. It has 12 buttons (trigger, 3 more on the stick head, 2 on the throttle base, and 7 on the throttle), twist stick, and a rudder rocker on the back of the throttle.

The Thrustmaster HOTAS 4 is a upgraded version of the HOTAS X, available for $64. As the name says, it's designed to work with the PS4 in addition to PC. Externally, it's identical, though internally, it has a smaller deadzone for better sensitivity.

Moving up the price band, the Thrusmaster T16000m FCS can be had for $128. This is a refreshed version of Thrustmaster's venerable T16000m stick combined with an all new throttle. Compared to the X, the 16000m has many more controls, with a total of 19 buttons (trigger and 3 on the stick, 12 on the stick base, and 3 on the throttle), a two-way switch, two 4-way hats, two 8-way hats, an analog stick, a dial, rudder rocker, twist stick, and a mini throttle. It also has much smoother and more precise action than the X. The stick and throttle each have their own independent cables and each needs a USB port, so you might want to add a hub to your shopping list. All of the pieces can be purchased together or separately, and pedals are also available. Both the stick and throttle have holes for mounting screws if you want to do something interesting.

I've personally used both the HOTAS X and the T16000m FCS, the latter of which is my current HOTAS.

This is a good starter flight stick that actually works amazingly well.

Thrustmaster T-Flight HOTAS 4

Thrustmaster just released another HOTAS set that is getting pretty good reviews. There used to be a huge gap between the $50 and $200 segment. Any HOTAS within that range were too expensive and too crappy to even consider. So for anyone who wanted something a little more versatile had to make the huge jump to something in the hundreds of dollars. Thrustmaster seems to have fixed that.

Thrustmaster T.16000M FCS HOTAS Controller

Past this, I personally would recommend CH Products. Pretty pricey and, honestly, not much to look at. But what you really pay for is absolute durability, longevity, and versatility. CH Products has been building HOTAS systems for decades now, and there's people who still have their original sticks and throttles, but just rewired the old joystick ports to USB, and they still friggin' work. I have the Fighterstick USB, and the Pro Throttle USB.

Hey, I'm looking for a board with the following features:

Full-size or 90%
Stiff-ish, tactile, quiet switches. MX Clear or Brown or comparable
Orange or Red or RGB backlighting
As non-gamery as possible
~$50 US
Actually available
Media keys and replaceable switches is a plus, but not strictly necessary
Edit: bigass enter keys need not apply

So far, I'm looking at the following:

Redragon K556. RGB, replaceable (Otemu?) Browns. Looks alright, but I'm not big on the plank-with-keys-on-top style.
Redragon K578. RGB, non-replaceable Browns, has a nice plain look apart from the dorky keycap font and red logo.
Kaihua K16 White LED with Brown Switches. Looks nice but I'd prefer a warm-color LED. "Out of stock. No available estimate." Wonderful.

Anyone have experience these, or other recommendations in the same price range?

I'm currently sporting a Redragon K551, which is long out of warranty and developing key chatter issues in several keys.

I've got several choices for you:

Leopold FC980M: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3565 (a bit over your budget but I think it's a great board); for silent switches you probably want to go with the MX silent reds if linears are your thing and you don't mind paying an extra $5. If not, then anything besides blues should be relatively quiet as well.

Ducky One 2: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3485 Same deal with this one for the switches

Redragon K556: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=redragon+brown&qid=1565287317&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You can turn off the LEDs if that's not your thing. This is the cheapest board, but not too bad. Pretty solid budget choice.

If none of these tickle your fancy lmk and I can find more that fits more closely to your tastes

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-SWITCH/dp/B019MFPLC0

Well with fightsticks it’s safe to say go big or go home because most cheap ones are garbage but this one is a special circumstance. You’ll probably eventually upgrade it or upgrade to a new one but if you don’t do either of those things it will last you a super long time!

The Masterkeys Pro L is on sale for $135 right now. I have a Pro S (the tenkeyless version) and it works wonderfully. If you don't care about RGB there's a cheaper one with white LEDs as well.

People on this sub tend to not recommend Corsair and Logitech boards because of their nonstandard bottom row (it's harder to get custom keycap sets for them) as well as the lighting being tied to software (which sounds good in theory, but they're usually really buggy and overly complex). If you really particularly like their features then go for it; they're certainly not bad at all.

and if you REALLY get into it, here's the best entry level HOTAS,

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Flight-playstation-4/dp/B015PJ68BK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536066527&sr=8-2&keywords=hotas+x

Also when you run out of buttons or don't want to fiddle with alternative button/key bindings, (though you can, Elite is very impressive in this regard) Voice Attack makes for easy and customizable voice controls/macros on the cheap. There's nothing like approaching a station and telling your computer, "prep for landing" and having all your systems automatically switch. Love it.

https://voiceattack.com/

​

Ok, you will for sure want MX Blues or MX Greens then. I will post some links to ones that I think you would be interested in.

Ducky One I have this board but in browns and I like it a lot.

Filco

CM Storm Quickfire this one has MX greens which are
clicky but need more force to be pressed.

^Wrong link. Click the green one.

Rosewill This one is more of a budget starter.

Corsair Strafe this is probably one of the more popular brands especially for gamers.

Corsair K70

The wheel stand itself is like $120. The wheel and pedals have a huge range based on what you get. You might get something ok on eBay for like $125-175 but if you want a new wheel that's pretty cheap then this one is good for $200. There are wheels under that cost by they just aren't good enough in my opinion. Above that price there are wheels of all sorts of costs up to many thousands of dollars.

For CM this or this if you need a dedicated arrow cluster.

Ducky is a bit more expensive, I'd recommend a Ducky One. Go here for an easy listing of options.

Hope this helps!

o-rings are modules, just search for gateron clears, and then buy some o-rings on amazon.
I'm afraid that you won't find any gateron clears on any of the mainstream gaming keyboards.

You could buy Cherry MX browns, you'd find them quite easily they are in between linear (nicer for gaming) and tactile (nicer for typing) they are the best of both worlds.

A cool keyboard with browns and backlit (gaming at night ...) : the


link to a 100% keyboard from Cooler Master

link to a 100% keyboard from Corsair (Corsair has a bad reputation but don't listen to the r/mkb elitist, they are nice boards)

link to another Corsair boards, cheaper and simpler

finally a board from Logitech that looks like a regular mechanical keyboard without too much things on it

I didn't know such a controller existed... thank you

EDIT: Wow - this really looks like a clever advert-spam scheme

Hello I have been looking for a good quality headset for the past week now. I mainly play on the Xbox One and I'm not a PC gamer. I want to know what headsets would you recommend me. I have been eyeing on [Sennheiser GSP 300] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KV3BB0S/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498117313&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sennheiser+headphone+gsp+350) and the [HyperX CloudX pro gaming headset for Xbox one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HHBYS8E/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_2?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1). If you want me to consider and look at another headset then please say so as I am new to the gaming headset scene. My budget is around $100 and I can definitely wait if companies are already releasing new headphones later this year. Thanks in advance.

Ignore all those and buy a keyboard with real cherry MX - Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L. Yes it doesn't have RGB but do you want a good keyboard or just RGB bling?

​

https://www.amazon.in/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01ITE93OM

​

Fabulous keyboard for the money - I have been using one for over a year and it regularly goes for 5499 during sale.

A decent pair of headphones for $25 if he doesn't already have some.

A better than most headset configuration (these headphones $16 + this mic $30) if he's got a "gaming" headset

A slightly heavy adjustable-weight mouse for $45

The mouse my GF bought me for $58

A nice clicky keyboard between $27 (no backlight) and $43 (rgb backlight)

Or as my GF did, you can demand that he build you a computer so you can play together! (added benefit of him getting to build something new which is my second favorite part)

The issue with the wheel is that you will have to spend a lot of money to do much better than the g29. I do think the t300 is an upgrade, especially the Alcantara edition but it's only a slight upgrade, definitely not worth the price of the upgrade. The pedals it comes with are a slight upgrade as well, again, I wouldn't pay that price unless your kit breaks.

Loadcell pedals on the other hand are kind of a no-brainer. CSL elites w/ the load cell will last you a very long time. Contrary to some of the posters here I would suggest getting the loadcell brake pedal right away. Learning to brake on a load cell is totally different (much much better) and you will have to relearn once you get it so there is no point delaying in my opinion.

I would get those then look into a bottom tier DD like the SW7C that goes for $550 + shipping in the future.

I was struggling with this as I just purchased the firetv stick and I have an iPhone.

After sideloading the Xfinity TV app and settings.apk., this now works perfectly for me: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BX0YKX4 (alternate: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BALK9CM)

if you hold down the right mouse stick and use the trackpad, it scrolls just like the native android app is supposed to.

Yes, it's a $20 solution, but the keyboard has many uses. If there is ONE caveat, the trackpad area is small, so it can take multiple swipes to navigate the guide.

Hope that helps.

I use the GameSir G3s on my Shield Pro, works fine with all my emulators (I have a lot of them installed). It's not quite as good as the pair of DualShock4's I use on PC, but it's better than a 360 controller IMO. Comes with a free phone clip for OTG gaming & Happy Chick EMU as well, but I'd be cautious with that, mad shady permissions.

Get this instead! My friend has one, it's glorious. The drivers are very good too!

http://www.amazon.com/Driver-Update-Perixx-MX-2000IIB-Programmable/dp/B0083H4NG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405016121&sr=8-2&keywords=perrix

Logitech G402 mouse

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LFBEOUA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rebind those top buttons to standard keys, remap in WoW and baby you got a 7 button mouse.

Keyboard-wise I'm rocking a 3 year old Corsair K70 Vengeance..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Vengeance-Performance-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00JIVZUDY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1TPEFM8Y6AB06&keywords=corsair+k70+vengeance&qid=1554537210&s=gateway&sprefix=corsair+k70+ven%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-3

But I'm eyeing up the Logitech G513 Linear:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B079Z3ZN8B/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=g513&qid=1554537199&s=gateway&sr=8-2

The K70 is good but it's super loud. I think I might just have to bite the bullet on a linear keyboard

well. dualshock 4 is a very viable option. although you would have to use th Dpad (which is also a very viable option). you will have to getused to it a lot. if you want a fighting stick, there are some pretty cheap options.
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mayflash+f500&qid=1565709878&s=gateway&sr=8-2 - a very cheap fightstick for entry level


https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Arcade-Fight-Android-Switch-NEOGEO/dp/B00QM7JUMY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mayflash+f500&qid=1565709914&s=gateway&sr=8-1 - improved model of the previous one. has better build quality, parts and is more sturdy, but also more expensive

https://www.amazon.com/MAYFLASH-Buttons-Joysticks-Nintendo-Android/dp/B07QJ1JJ7J/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mayflash+f500+elite&qid=1565710039&s=gateway&sr=8-2 - this is mayflash f500, but with sanwa buttons, which are pretty much the best arcade stick buttons you can get.


you dont have to sink hundreds of dollars into a fightstick

​

i myself am using a dualshock 4 with the dpad, and it's very viable. half circles are giving me a bit of trouble in tekken, but that's because tekken 4 half circle motion is stupid

okay for TKL boards I'll throw a few options ranging from super budget to a smidge over your budget.

$28 no backlight, blue switches (loud, clicky)
$45 RGB backlight, blue switches (loud, clicky)
$70 red backlight, MX red switches (linear, not as loud, "name brand" switches)
$80 RGB, MX red switches (linear, name brand switches)
$99 blue led. range of cherry MX switches (my personal favourites are brown or silver)

the AUKey and reddragon boards are both good 'beginner' boards to get you into the world of mechanical keybs without too much of an initial outlay.

also worth noting, if keycaps etc are a bonus for you I would steer clear of Corsair boards (i have a k65 and trying to find any keycaps that come with corsairs stupid non standard bottom row is an exercise in frustration.)

Sennheiser GSP 300 (301 & 302 are the same thing, just color differences). https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-GSP-300-Gaming-Headset/dp/B074ZZL3GT?th=1 - The blue one is $79.95 on amazon.com. Best bang for your buck headset on the market. The other best value one would be the Coolermaster MH751.

​

You don't need virtual surround sound; it's pretty gimmicky. Wireless capability is convenient, but you sacrifice sound and mic quality. Very few headsets do wireless sound and mic well, and the ones that do are very expensive.

​

With that being said, if you really want both of those features, check out Hardware Canucks wireless headset roundup from last year on Youtube and see for yourself.

I have the Drevo 84 Key with brown switches and absolutely love it.

Also tried/have the Magic Force 68 key with browns and quickly realized I rely on the function keys too much in photo editing and gaming. But for just typing I prefer typing on it to typing on the Drevo.

But the drevo also has a number pad which is really useful for data entry from lab work. The media control shortcuts are also in a more logical/traditional layout.

Drevo is more functional. Magic force better for pure typing.

Some older side by side photos

I had the Logitech K380 for a while and it's not very good. None of Logitech's keyboards are. The best ultraportable is the Lenovo Compact Thinkpad Keyboard. I had the Bluetooth version and it was unfortunately very unstable (not everyone has this issue apparently), but they also make a USB version.

For an even better keyboard, go mechanical. The Anne Pro 2 is a great option, but it's much bigger than the Lenovo one. There are also low profile options like this one, but these switches are fairly new so not that many boards so far.

I'd go PS4, there are more people to play in general and most tournaments run PS4 so it could be an easier transition.

The actual net code is fine. Not that most people actually understand anything about what they call 'net code'. But for BBTAG it largely depends on your connection and the connection of the person you pair up against.

I always suggest playing with a controller first. Especially with a game like BB TAG. I played with a controller for a few months and later picked up the Mayflash F300. It's not like the best fight stick in the world but it's been a good stick nonetheless. No problems with it and I'd say it was a solid investment for the amount it cost.

I am also fairly new to fighting games. I watched the Central Fiction Top 8 at EVO 2017 with a friend and absolutely had to get into it. Picked up Central Fiction and shortly after DBFZ. Now BBTAG and UNIST. I competed at EVO 2018 last year for BBTAG, DBFZ, and Smash. I didn't win (Obviously) but I certainly didn't do bad. Especially having been playing for less then a year. So yes, you can do it if you have the drive, patience, and will to keep picking yourself up when youre down because fighting games are not easy. For the record, I'm almost 10 years older than you.

I definitely think you could get a quality wheel for $300. The nice thing about Thrustmaster is that you can buy them from other retailers, such as Amazon, Walmart, Gamestop, Best Buy, etc.

I know I was watching this T300 w/ Alcantara because it fell to $300 in December of 2016. Similarly, this TX w/ leather wheel dropped to $300 in November 2016.

Hey. I guess I can list the two that caught my eye, I'm just undecided on which I should get/wait for. Though if you have more suggestions that would be nice as well.

I was initially interested in the MasterKeys Pro S Non-RGB version, but I think after discussing it with you or someone else I thought that the MasterKeys S PBT would be a better buy.

You also recommended the iKBC CD87 PBT, but IIRC this brand does not go on sale. I should mention that I'm fine with TKL versions.

Both of those are currently ~$100. I remember you helped with the differences and I think I preferreed the iKBC one, but the lack of sales was holding me back and I've been in limbo since.

If there are other boards that you would recommend that are similar to these I wouldn't mind taking a look.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-Rollover/dp/B0722GG88M

Iv really enjoyed it. Great for typing and gaming. Keys are right where they're supposed to be and the switches feel nice imo.

GMMK TKL. It's a little more than what you're looking for but totally worth it. You could check out Red Dragon keyboard as well.. they don't have great switches but are just fine and will get you by.

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC

You can remove the switches on this board I believe. You can install different switches when you're ready.

They have a TKL for like $44 as well.

Do you already have that 160 euro 60hz monitor? If not, for only 40 euros more you can go 144hz. That's really a no brainer.

You can save another 20 euros by getting G402 mouse which is a really nice gaming mouse and highly recommended on this sub.

I didn't realize how expensive 1660ti is in your country at 330 euros. At 200 euros, RX 580 8GB is much better value and it should be enough to get +100fps on most 1080p games on your 144hz monitor.

In USA, RX 580 8GB costs $180 on sale and 1660ti is less than $100 more expensive.

Can't find an r556, I assume you mean the k556? https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Only differences are it's RGB, it's got a numberpad, and it's Brown witches, the k552 is Blue, Brown switches are a bit quieter and the tactical bump is more subtle. They're both good switches and quality wise the k552 and k556 are very similar and you'd be happy with either, just depends on which keys you want and if you want RGB and a numpad.

Hey guys,
I'm fairly new to mechs, but from the ones I tried out, I really like Cherry MX Browns (Reds and Blacks aren't my thing and I haven't tried Blues, but those are probably out of the question as I live in a dorm). I've been looking to buy a board with the following requirements:

• I don't really want to spend more than 70€ (I'm a broke student), shipping included
  
• I want it to be tenkeyless (meaning no Magicforce, even though it looks quite good)
  
• It has to be available in Europe (I specifically live in Slovakia, but Germany would do as I do have methods to get a parcel to here from there)
  
• ANSI layout is a plus, as it's easier to get keycaps imo, as well as a backlight, preferably white or RGB.
  
  I've been looking at the Drevo Tyrfing (or maybe even Gramr) with Outemu Browns, but from what I've seen on this sub, some people say the switches are okay and some think they're really bad. Is it a good choice for the price? Or is there a better option?
  
  edit: linked keebs to US Amazon

You should try a 75% since that layout has become pretty standard in recent years.

Budget:

• Drevo Gramr
  
  Mid-range:
  
  
• Keycool 84
  
• MK84
  
• Drevo Excalibur
  
  High end (custom):
  
  
• KBD75 (pretty easy to find right now since a huge GB just shipped)
  
• RS84
  
• AMJ84 (hard to find here in the US but was run primarily on TaoBao)
  
• TriC 84
  
• B.Mini
  
• C.mini (aka b.fake mini or ps2avrgb 75%)
  
• GON MX Mini
  
  Super high end:
  
  
• TX75
  
• Duck Octagon V1 and V2
  
  
  --
  
  Here's a 75% that I'm currently using: http://imgur.com/a/DMMql

First thing first. Why would you want to spend a fortune on a shifter instead of getting better pedals or the wheel?

I'd rather suggest get G27 or even G29 or G920 for as low as you can get, in this case and buy a better pedal set like Fanatec CSL Elite rather than the shifter that costs the same. IMHO, it's pointless to spend a fortune on a shifter in this case when you can get far more important things like pedals.

Being in your situation I would do the following:

buy Thrustmaster T150 on Amazon

buy Fanatec CSL Elite pedals

P.S. don't forget that shipping costs and import tax applies when you order Fanatec in Canada. I bought the whole set (Fanatec CSW v2.5, Formula Black rim, ClubSport v3 pedals, Brake performance kit) and had to pay a about $200 for shipping and about the same for the import tax.

Can't comment on the mousepad, but it sounds like my keyboard/mouse setup may be what you're looking for. I use a Perixx MX2000II (the software lets you change it red) and a CM Storm Quickfire TK with cherry mx red switches. The keyboard makes the combo over your budget, but if you can get it on sale, it should work out alright, plus you're getting a sweet mechanical keyboard. I've got them both setup here if you want to see them.

I suggest this instead. Way better value. The stock rim and pedals on the TX are honestly a toy.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481820130&sr=8-1&keywords=T300+Alcantara

I haven't tried the PS ones, but these configure easy and work great.

i use a mini bluetooth keyboard, think this one to be exact. They are on amazon lightning deals often, think i got it for $16. Works great for me. i know some people still prefer a remote, especially if they have kids etc its just easier. Can get a usb IR receiver or connect an ir receiver to the GPIO pins if you want a remote, or, if your tv/audio receiver is CEC capable, so is the RPi so that would work also (mine aren't)

150 Arcade stick... yeah right

Apparently that thing is pretty good though and is pretty much the same price as an Xbox or PS controller.

Right so take yours and add:

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/24-acer-g246hlg-fhd-monitor-1920x1080-60hz-1ms-100m1-250cd-m-brightness-vesa-hdmi-dvi-d-vga?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ebdBRC1ARIsAD8U0V7Vk_5KKMZF1I6RH__vK64t6BmWfrryUjhyC9l_tD5Mf84ADF2YqyYaAhvREALw_wcB - $120

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AUKEY-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Anti-ghosting/dp/B06ZYMGYVN/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1538929299&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=mechanical&psc=1 - $ 40

Logitech G402 Gaming Mouse Hyperion Fury with 8 Programmable Buttons - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00LFBEOUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l6IUBb6P41EAN - $40

Total of 690 ish dollars. If you want it much cheaper get a 5 ms response monitor or a non mechanical keyboard or a worse mouse.

Sorry for formatting, on mobile.

Edit: Woops I forgot the headset. Give me a minute

Edit 2: changed the keyboard and added this shitty headset: SADES SA917 Gamin headset - $20
i'd get a better headset personally but it is up to you, for like another $20 you can get a pretty good headset

• Mouse, you might want to consider the G402, I find it looks better, preforms better and just costs £6 more, it isn't listed their yet
  
  
• Video Card, I would choose a Sapphire Radeon R9 270X, it is slightly less powerful, but the difference is almost negligible, but there is a more then £150 price difference
  
  
• PSU, way to much, I would recommend be quiet! 500W 80+ Gold Certified, as it is a high quality psu and still has enough "extra" wattage for oc
  
  
• Mobo, if you wont add a second video card, I would say a Micro ATX is enough, and in this case I would recommend the ASRock H77 Pro4-M

Hi guys im looking for a cheap rgb mechanical brown keyboard, the colors are super important to me and i just wanted to know which of these had the better colors.
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492588194&sr=8-4&keywords=rgb+brown+switch+keyboard


or


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Global-Marketing-Partners-Excalibur-Spectrum-Brown-Switch-Full-Color-Keyboard/45810387?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1896&adid=22222222227033077827&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=76977009911&wl4=pla-133673071991&wl5=9031154&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113134512&wl11=online&wl12=45810387&wl13=&veh=sem
it seems like the greens on the tesoro arent visible

I bought this one for $60 US, and I absolutely love it. It’s mechanical with brown switches, multiple color settings, and it feels like it’s very good quality!