I would find a good mouse you like, so you aren't using a touch pad. I highly recommend the new logitech mice that have their new sensor. I personally have never used a mouse with a better sensor. Any of these three mice are good. I recommend the logitech g pro if you don't know what preference in style you have for your mouse. It's pretty close to what you would be use to in standard mice.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Shifting-Personalized-Programmable-Customizable/dp/B00IRHE892/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482645105&sr=8-3&keywords=logitech+mice

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Daedalus-Performance-Gaming-910-004380/dp/B00TKFD51M/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1482645105&sr=8-11&keywords=logitech+mice

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Advanced-Sensor-Competitive/dp/B01JPOLLTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482645118&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+mice+pro

Make sure you download steam for all your gaming needs. There are alternatives, but since you are newer to PC I highly recommend using steam as your main platform. Also they are having an awesome winter sale right now! Perfect time to pick up games at super cheap.

http://store.steampowered.com/

I highly recommend turning off "enhanced pointer precision" which is normally turned on by default on windows machines.

http://www.thewindowsclub.com/enhance-pointer-precision-windows

I would also ensure that your computer is using the "balanced" power save option.

http://www.howtogeek.com/240840/should-you-use-the-balanced-power-saver-or-high-performance-power-plan-on-windows/

I recommend getting good, preferably free, anti-virus. Everyone has their own preferences. I use Avast. Just avoid McAfee.

https://www.avast.com/en-us/index

Picking up a new browser, so you don't use internet explorer, is a good idea. I recommend google chrome because it has enough built in features where you don't need to be "in the know" to get what you need out of it.

https://www.google.com/chrome/browser/desktop/index.html?brand=CHBD&gclid=CjwKEAiA1vjCBRDd-9q3w4OF6WUSJACWv_sVbfPzq9MQuEXf_fjyvJqASfE7B5R_9B7d6mLscUpprxoCj8Xw_wcB&dclid=CN360ufXjtECFZFFAQodU78Etw

If you do pick up google chrome, you should pick up an add blocker for it as well. Blocks advertisements everywhere and stops you from having to watch advertisements at the beginning of youtube videos.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/adblock/gighmmpiobklfepjocnamgkkbiglidom?hl=en-US

And to wrap it up I'd download the battle.net launcher from blizzard. Blizzard has lots of very good games, like overwatch, hearthstone, wow, etc.

http://us.battle.net/en/app/

I personally use a program called f.lux which makes your monitor more friendly for your eyes at night. It makes it easier to fall asleep after being on your PC late at night. I highly recommend using this if you game at night.

https://justgetflux.com/

Now just find some games you want to play. Here are some of the most popular games on PC(based on players playing the game at the moment). That I would recommend. Everyone has their own preferences, and sorry if I'm explaining this like you know nothing. I'm not sure what information you are looking for exactly or your knowledge level.

Battle Net Games

Overwatch(Multiplayer PVP focus - fantastic FPS highly recommend)

Hearthstone(free to play card game - if you like trading card games play this!)

Steam Games

Skyrim(Single Player)

Witcher(Single Player)

Total War: WARHAMMER(Strategy Game)

Civilization 6(Strategy Game)

Terraria(2d Minecraft)

Paladins(PVP Free to play game)

Path Of Exile(Free to play Diablo2 like game)

Rust(Multiplayer Survival game)

Ark(Multiplayer dinosaur survival game)

Stardew Valley(Top down run your own farm RPG game, think Harvest Moon)

Dark Souls 1,2,3(Hardcore mostly singleplayer action RPG)

War Thunder(Free to play WW2 plane/tank PVP game, multiplayer)

Binding of Isaac: Rebirth(roguelike, top down like old zelda games - highly recommend this game)

Cities: Skylines(better version of Sim city)

Rainbow Six Siege( tactical FPS pvp, multiplayer)

Stand Alone Games That Don't Use A Launcher

Minecraft

League Of Legends

League Of Legends is one of the most played games in the world, competing against overwatch. It is called a MOBA, you've probably heard of it, and it's at least worth checking out if you have a friend to play with.

edit: Also finding a headset is very important, I always point to HyperX headsets if you need a microphone to talk to people. They are comfortable, sound good, and won't break the bank. If you don't need a mic just pick up a nice pair of sennheiser headphones. Also sorry for any grammar issues and just the wall of text. I just started typing and kept going. If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope you like your pc!

I wanted to share my opinion on my first Franken-Quest setup.

I used:

- Gorilla tape - had some laying around

- Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=deluxe+audio+strap&qid=1568603404&s=gateway&sr=8-1

- Anker Powercore 10000 battery https://www.anker.com/products/variant/PowerCore-10000/A1263011

- Anker PowerPort Elite charger https://www.anker.com/products/variant/powerport-elite-2/A2023111

- USB cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ8RA3A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This setup has been AWESOME! It's kind of like wearing a VR helmet now. I first tried the Vive strap without the battery for counter weight. I thought, how could everyone say this is more comfortable and worth the $100?

Then I attached the battery and the weight was distributed MUCH better. That's the key to this setup, balancing the weight of that front heavy beast, while remaining comfortable for extended periods of play, like 8 hours, give or take. I haven't really kept accurate track of time, but I'm pretty confident this setup extends the playtime to around 8 hours, and comfortably.

I've found that the weight is now more evenly distributed along the top strap and is held in place by the, excellently designed, back piece that very comfortably cups the back of my head.

The headphones sound amazing IMO. BUT that's only when applying extra pressure against my ears. For my ears, the phones rest comfortably, but I would prefer more pressure for that true surround with bass. If anyone has any suggestions please share. And if I come up with something, I'll update the post.'

My favorite thing to do with the Quest is play outside during overcast days or towards the evening when the sun is low. It feels so much more freeing IMO. I look forward to Mincraft once my GPU comes. That was always my favorite experience on the DK1 on. That is still the best VR game IMO. Although I wish there was still the Metacraft Server, I miss that place. I spent SO MUCH time in there building on my own land, going on quests, attending live broadcasts, the Nether quest... Such great memories.

That's what I'm most looking forward to again I think. A custom Minecraft VR server where we can all have our own land, help build cities, go on adventures, hang out... Anyone know what Wormslayers up to lately? Best Mod ever!

Other thoughts:

I'll probably switch the tape battery to Velcro for faster removal when wanting to use for charging something else, road trip or whatever.

I WISH THE UNITY QUEST DEVELOPMENT WORKFLOW WAS THE SAME AS THE RIFT OR VIVE! I got all setup and then learned that I would have to build each time in order to test out any changes :O That's insanity. It's unfortunate that Facebook/Oculus didn't release with this in place. I hope this is addressed sooner than later, because I'm all about freely jumping in and out Realtime instead of having to build every time I want to assess changes.

TLDR: This simple Quest setup gives the best VR experience I've had to date. (DK1, DK2, Gear VR, Rift, Quest, Vive, Odyssey) I would now recommend the Quest to anyone who wants an amazing !untethered! VR experience. But I would not recommend the Quest without this Mod. Mobile, high quality, comfortable and 8 hours of play for around $600 SWEET!

PART TWO -- wrote this before seeing your VIVE arrives... basically tomorrow

-=- recommended accessories -=-
get the Deluxe Audio Strap. this is a MUST HAVE.

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=htc+vive+deluxe+audio+strap&qid=1555922928&s=videogames&sr=1-1


i don't consider this an accessory...this is just absolutely CRUCIAL. installation took me ~15-20 minutes after watching a youtube video on how to install as the instructions that ship with it are ...lacking. there's a video of a german guy who shows you have to install it easily.... this strap adds not only great sounding, adjustable and comfortable headphones but (more importantly) will secure the HMD in a way that makes the default strap seem laughable. this deluxe strap allows more comfortable wear of the HMD, better cord management and eliminates the need for supplying your own audio (be it earbuds or headphones) while i ordered all of these "accessories" and received them before my VIVE, i decided to try the original / shipped strap before installing the "deluxe" and words can't describe the difference in fit, comfort, and how great the audio from the adjustable integrated earphones sound. the headphones are able to "snap" in an upright position when you are either removing /storing the HMD or just need to lift one up to hear something someone is trying to tell you...


-=-2nd suggestion for "accessories"-=-


probably most important second only to the deluxe audio strap.... get these tripods. you don't want to mount your lighthouses to your wall... with these tripods you are able to place your lighthouses without drilling/mounting. it is way worth the investment as the stands are very secure, adjustable and the lighthouses screw directly into them. no other parts needed, just these two stands... you'll realize that you might have to fine-tune/tweak the placement of the lighthouses slightly, and with these stands you are able to make adjustments (not only in placement but with the ball/swivel you are able to change the angle/pitch etc.) which you couldn't do if you mounted them.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B6FDKZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-=-honorable mention -- not necessary but recommended...-=-

when i purchased my vive i made sure to get a nice stand to set the HMD/controllers on... (...i went a bit overboard with other accessories and for brevity i'll only mention two more accessories that i think you should pick up) here's the HMD/controller stand i purchased for when either storing the vive or to set it on while taking breaks/cooling off... . it isn't an absolute necessity but it gives it a nice place to rest the HMD/controllers during breaks between play (you will sweat a lot even in a cold room, i know i'm out of shape but with titles like sairento, sprint vector, space pirate etcetc i take breaks just to let my face breathe and cool off.) this beats just setting the HMD on the ground or on a nearby table which could easily fall off.... your call, but -- again, protect your investment!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D1N5GP4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-

"Skywin VR cable management system"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0733NN7G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-- these are simply pullies that attach to your ceiling, allowing the cable to be out of the way of the ground... personal preference here but i find these very useful (especially with titles where i'm moving around a lot... sairento, gorn, QuiVR etc) ... protip: i went to walmart etc, purchased -several- packs of 3M "Command" large picture and frame hanging strips 16lb "large picture hanging strips" and have them all over my ceiling at different strategic places (depending on if i'm playing a title that requires my entire room i.e having to move my bed for the max. play area, or if i'm playing a title that requires only the smallest room setup or even for sitting) so using the 3M strips instead of the adhesive that comes with the pullies in the kit, i'm able to switch around the location of the pullies to suit each above situation...also, they remove without damaging your ceiling... if you have any questions on this just message me and i'd be happy to elaborate.
-=-
last accessory suggestion -- after watching videos of people punching holes in their walls etc. i decided to grab these protective frames which have saved my walls and possible harm to my controllers when demoing my vive to friends (even though when demoing i always have chaperone on "beginner", floor bounds on etc) it -never- fails that they will try to throw a grenade and hit my ceiling, swing a punch while playing Gorn and instead of my vive controller slamming into the wall, the cage around the circular top part absorbs the impact and deflects/redistributes the force from one point of contact to several. just throwing this out there, just in case you or someone you are showing it to will be inadvertently throwing your controller into your wall

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLMYMQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-=-
final thoughts/closing: hmm. well, i think i said a LOT here and hope that your experience with installation is pleasant. again, let us all know how your first experience went and feel free to ask any questions.


welcome to the subreddit, welcome to the VIVE family and congrats on embarking on this journey together with us


--kyle

To expand on what the other commenter has said, both the HTC Vive and Oculus Rift have had a fairly significant price drop over the last couple of months.

The Vive now sits at a much more reasonable price of $599usd while the Oculus Rift sits at $399 although it's strongly recommended that you purchase a 3rd camera sensor for $60 with it to improve the tracking potential. Both come with tracked controller solutions, the Vive with it's wand style and the Rift with Touch.

 

Personally, I feel that the Vive is a better buy, considering several factors so I'm a bit biased.


-The Rift needs a 3rd sensor which lessens the price gap a fair amount, and takes up a whopping 4 USB 3.0 ports while the Vive uses only a single USB 2.0 port because of the Lighthouse tracking versus the Rift's camera based solution

-They both work for room-scale games, but the Vive is more purpose built for it because of the way tracking works

-This is pretty subjective but I prefer the Vive's display and optics. Neither are objectively better but I like the Vive's slightly larger field of view compared to the Rift's slightly better readability with text

-Vive is much better if you have glasses.

-This is purely subjective, but the Vive has nothing to do with Facebook. To me that's a major plus, but you might not care as much.

 

As much as I adore my Vive, the Rift has several advantages too

-First, it's outright cheaper, regardless of having to buy the 3rd sensor

-The controllers feel more natural in the hand when you're playing games where you have hands instead of tools (Vive is better if you're playing a shooter for example as the controllers feel like you're holding something like that)

-The Rift has a built in pair of headphones which are actually quite good, and light weight. I didn't think this was a huge deal at first since I have good headphones already, but not having to worry about that extra cable dangling from your head is a nice luxury to have

-The Rift's stock head strap is much nicer, and general ergonomics are better. The Vive has an upgraded Deluxe Audio Strap that you can buy now, but it's a hundred bucks.

-Access to a bunch of free Oculus funded games through Home. The Vive can play these too, but you have to use a middleware program called ReVive for it to work.

 


To finish off this wall of text, some minimum recommended PC spec's:

-At least an i5 from the 4000 series of chips (IE i5 4590 is what Oculus used to recommend as a minimum) or 3000 series if you can overclock (I have an OC'd i7 3770k at 4.6 ghz and it's working great) EDIT: Also a Ryzen r5 1500 or better would work. Gotta rep team Red!

-Standard gaming amount of RAM, 8-16GB

-Modern mid-range graphics card like an RX 480/580, or a GTX 1060 6GB, or a higher end older card like a GTX 970 or R9 380x (this would be cutting it close)

I wouldn't recommend using anything older than that, any kind of stutter can and will make you ill. Trust me, sim sickness is no fun haha

If you've got any other question feel free to ask!

20. Modem: Buy it separately from your router. If you have 1Gbps (e.g. google fiber), then you need a DOCSIS 3.1 modem. Otherwise, you're find with DOCSIS 3.0 modems, which instantly cuts your costs in half. What matters is your number of down/up channels, which dictate your download/upload speeds. You'll need to look-up your ISPs supported modems, as many of them (e.g. Comcast) will mess with you, in that even though your modem may support insanely fast speeds, they won't let you use appropriately rated service packages with it and will auto-downgrade your speeds (or simply refuse offering you the service). This means getting "more than you need" is, in fact, "exactly what you need". Blame the ISPs. So, figure out your current/future download/upload speeds desired, then look-up your ISPs list of supported modems, then purchase the cheapest modem with the highest number of channels supporting it. You'll likely want to look at the DOCSIS 3.0 line-up from Motorola. The DOCSIS 3.0 24x8 will be plenty for anyone not on Google Fiber, frankly. Actually, it's almost google fiber speed rated, so even if you did use it, chances are you wouldn't even realize your mistake (a DOCSIS 3.1 32x8/16 is where fiber users should technically be at). Most would be fine with 16x4, but as the price difference is about $15, I'd consider the 24x8 a worthwhile future proofing, but my budget may differ from yours. And don't get roped into how DOCSIS 3.1 "beats out" DOCSIS 3.0 modems. The difference, if there even is any, is imperceptible. Also, if you use a cable company like Comcast, you'll also save on modem rental fees (as much as $20/mo) getting your own, so it will pay for itself. Also, make sure to check the error codes put out by your modem, after it has had a day to sit around and receive firmware updates (pushed by your ISP, unlike your router, which needs to be manually updated by you. #SecurityPSA). If they're high, or your numbers are experiencing unusual skew, then your coaxial cable (the wire connecting from your wall to modem) may have an issue, or there's an issue in your building's wiring (or neighborhood), building switch panel, or the wall-mount itself might be noisy. You can purchase a new coaxial cable and twist-on knob (I forget what this device is called) to lower noise going to/from your modem - the other problems require contacting your ISP.
    
    
21. Mouse: DPI adjust-ability can be nice for pro gaming, but what you should really consider is ergonomics, frankly. Ergonomics aside (this is why I personally use a trackball mouse, which seems to amaze a lot of gamers - mine uses index finger to move, so my left mouse button is operated by my thumb), you should consider the refresh rate. Much like your monitor has Hz, so, too, does your mouse. Settings of 500, 1k, and 2k are common to find. most pro gamers use 500, else 1k. The higher you go, the lower the input lag, thus you can react faster. You might be wondering then, "why don't most pros use 2k?" Two reasons. First, the 2k Hz are often buggy, overclocked, problematic messes, whereas most the 1k Hz are stable (manufacturer dependent). Second, when going beyond 500 Hz, like to 1k Hz, you will experience visual stroboscopic effects. Depending on your eyes (and your monitor), this might not bother you. That's why some pro gamers do end up using 1k Hz mice. To see for yourself what I mean, check out the relevant [testufo stroboscopic page](https://www.testufo.com/mousearrow#count=4&pps=1920). Personally, I do competitive FPS with a Logitech Marble Mouse, but after nearly 15 years, a new index-finger operated trackball with a scroll wheel, programmable buttons, and DPI adjuster has finally hit the market! So, I'll be trying out the Elecom mice. If you can't imagine playing with a non-thumb trackball mouse, I encourage you to give it a shot. Otherwise, checkout [mice pro FPS gamers use](https://on-winning.com/overwatch-pro-sensitivity-settings-setups-monitor-mouse-keyboard-headset/) (e.g. [Logitech G Pro Gaming](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JPOLLTK/), [BenQ Zowie EC2-B](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0771WQH6X/), or [Razer DathAdder Elite](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXC1QL0/)). Non-trackball mice aren't my area of expertise though, so there may be better choices out there to consider!
    
    
22. Microphone: [Audio-Technica's 2020 USB+](https://www.audio-technica.com/cms/wired_mics/5879a6ca22e5aa7e/index.html) cardiod is great, although it will pick-up a lot of ambient noise in a room that isn't acoustically cared for. It's relatively lightweight and fits well in most shock mounts and boom arms. It also sells with specially fitted wind shields (akin to a pop filter), which are much sleeker (less in your face), remove more p-losives (compared to most nylon and metal pop filters), and is far superior in removing ambient high frequency noises (e.g. ceiling fans and keyboard/mouse clicking) (on account of it being form-fitted. They're also the cheapest around \~$10. However, a similar priced microphone that sounds more neutral and picks-up less ambient, would be the Blue Yeti (and if you're thinking of getting the "Pro", then save your money and just get the AT 2020). It's a pretty good microphone in its own right, although getting a shock mount and wind shield to fit it is problematic (and expensive). It's also extremely heavy, so most (even >$100) boom arms can't properly support it. Lastly, there's the Blue Snowball. Its quality is pretty good and there are streamers out there using it, although many seek out the two aforementioned microphones. Nonetheless, it's still quite good, extremely lightweight, and runs the cheapest of all three. It's also very-very small compared to the others, so if you're skipping a boom arm, then it will be the best fit on your desk! Anyway, with respect to the Audio-Technica, a good shock mount (e.g. [Rode PSM1](https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PSM1--rode-psm1-microphone-shock-mount?))) and good boom arm (e.g. [Rode PSA1](https://www.amazon.com/RODE-Swivel-Mount-Studio-Microphone/dp/B001D7UYBO)) are good ideas, but expensive. And again, a good wind screen (e.g. [VocalBeat's acoustic fitted foam](https://www.amazon.com/AT2020-Foam-Windscreen-Vocalbeat-Microphone/dp/B01LZIDS2A/)).
    
    
23. Keyboard: Mechanical keyboards are my preference, given tactile feel/responsiveness. For silence, you'll want to consider Cherry Red Silent, red, and brown (in that order). For gaming (lighter pressure & shorter travel distance), you'll want to consider Cherry Speed Silver, Cherry Red Silent, red, and Cherry Black Silent (in that order). For those sharing both these priorities, it really just comes down to the Cherry Red Silent and Cherry Speed Silver. The former is 30% quieter than the standard red/brown, which makes it VERY quiet (it also is better for gaming). The Cherry Speed Silver is the best for gaming, EXCEPT it's so loud, that people have reported people over Discord complaining about hearing it. In my opinion, if it's distracting your teammates, then that's actual going to hurt your gameplay. As such, the Cherry Red Silent wins (being the next best "gaming" and most silent MX board). For more details, see [here](https://www.cherrymx.de/en/mx-original/mx-silent-red.html). As for the manufacturer, I've not yet finished researching the matter, although Ducky receives very high user reviews. As for Corsair (who first created the Cherry Red Silent MX's, in tandem with Cherry), their RGB backlit keyboards are a definite no-go. Why? Numerous user reviews state the software must be run on the PC for lighting effects to work. This wouldn't be so bad, except that numerous reviews have indicated it consumes \~500 MB of both system RAM and GPU memory! And while you can close out the program, this will disable all RGB lighting/effects!

I assume the wheel you have is a Driving Force GT. If it is, that's a pretty good wheel, and if you're okay with the gear-driven force feedback and the shitty pedals, you should be good for now. The next step up I would recommend the T300 Alcantara bundle, which is the best "bang for your buck" deal on the market currently.


For games, I have pretty much every sim on the market right now, barring RRRE and more niche stuff like those karting sims and whatnot. I switch between them several times a day, which doesn't really feel weird at all, since I have my wheel settings how I like them in each game.


If you're looking for competitive racing your 4 best options are easily iRacing, rFactor 2, Automobilista (my favourite all-round sim btw, get it regardless!), and rFactor. iRacing has already been talked about in this thread, but I've been getting back into it recently, and it's seriously the best on the market for competitive online racing. rFactor 2 is the best sim for leagues right now, since it's arguably the most realistic sim, and has the best support for mods online. Automobilista's not great for pick-up races, but I race in a GT3 league and I'm loving it. And rFactor has a ton of leagues for all sorts of cars still going strong, if you don't mind outdated graphics.
***

Since you asked someone else, I'll describe to you what I think about the "pick-up" nature of iRacing vs running a league.

Pick-up races: If you're in iRacing, most series run races every couple hours, which means you can race pretty much any time. Participation varies per series, but most series have healthy attendance most hours of the day. You don't get to know people quite as well, although if you race regularly in a series, you'll get to know some people eventually. I remember once, I joined a C Class race (NASCAR Trucks) with open setups, and there were like 10 guys in the race who knew eachother well, inside jokes and all.

Leagues: Leagues feel more like a real life racing series. You get to know your competitors; their personalities, abilities, and weaknesses*. Knowing your competitors well not only adds to the overall atmosphere of the series, since each race is important for your series standings, but allows for much more interesting races, since racers often play off of eachother's weaknesses. If you find a league that appeals to you, definitely give it a shot.

So when it comes to buying a mouse it is really all about your play style and feel. If you like to palm the mouse meaning that your whole hand is round the mouse a good mouse is the Razer Deathadder If you like the claw grip using mostly only your finger tips than I would recommend the Logitech G Pro I personally now use this mouse but used the Deathadder for a number of years. Both mice have over a 12,000 dpi setting once you install the software you can adjust as you please, but tbh most likely you will play between 200-900 dpi and 1.2-3.2 sensitivity in game. All of this is preference and you will figure out over a long period of time playing key board again is all preference it depends if you like silent of mechanical Razer Cynosa is a very nice silent one in your price range, for mechanical I have owned a lot of them and tbh the one I use is a off brand one I bought from my local Walmart and and I like it more than any high dollar ones I have owned so you might want to look there. Also you will need a nice mouse pad I have and will probably continue to use for years the razer goliaths speed it is cloth and I like it, there are also hard pads many people I know use and enjoy the Corsait MM8800 but again this is all up to preference. Last thing if you are trying to play at any high lvl of competition you might want to look into a 144hz monitor if your computer can run what ever game you are playing over about 200fps I have Acer 24inch 144hz the price is really good and makes a huge difference. well that is about all I can think about I wish you the best of luck and above all just have fun.

​

Just look around on Amazon and read some reviews. There are so many affordable mechanical keyboards these days and with a budget of $60 you have lots of options if you choose to go mechanical. Here are some good mechanical options/brands:

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1505072205&sr=8-9&keywords=red+dragon+keyboard
Red Dragon is rising star in peripheral market, they are geared towards wallet conscious consumers, but offer some good products.

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Blackwidow-Ultimate-2016-Refurbished/dp/B01LXOPFWP/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1505072792&sr=8-8&keywords=razer+keyboards
Here is a refurbished Black Widow Ultimate from Razer, which as you probably know is a renowned reputable brand. This offers green back lighting like you requested and is right at the $60 mark.

https://www.amazon.com/Cougar-Attack-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01938BWZG/ref=sr_1_28?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505073256&sr=1-28&keywords=CHERRY+MX+keyboard
This keyboard lacks green or rgb lighting, but does offer Cherry MX switches in either blue, red, or brown. Cherry MX switches are German made mechanical switches and are generally regarded as the best switches you can get. I personally own a Corsair K65 RGB (the oringal, not the lux) with Cherry MX Reds and its fantastic, but at $170 bucks its out of your price range and the price has become inflated anyway.

If you really value led lighting non mechanical keyboards are the best way to get your RGB fix. While not as fast or in my opinion as nice to type on there are many wonderful options in the way of membrane keyboards.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Gaming-K55-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01M4LIKLI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505073832&sr=1-3&keywords=RGB+keyboard
If you don't want to go mechanical this Corsair 55 is a great alternative. This does not offer per key back-lighting, but has some great lighting effects that beat out most mechanical keyboards in this price range. By the way, this keyboard is only $50.

There you have it my super long comment regarding keyboards. As I said before, spend some time on Amazon researching keyboards in more detail, but the ones I listed are in my opinion some of the best options in your price range.

Samsung HMD Odyssey+ - $355.00 new on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019

Pros:

• Low cost of entry. This headset and controller bundle is regularly on sale for $299.99 new, and can be had for as low as $250-270 refurbished.
  
• Uses the halo mounting method, ideal for larger heads and long-term comfort.
  
• 1440x1600 resolution per eye, equivalent to the HTC Vive Pro.
  
• Superior anti-"screen door effect" filtering gives arguably the second-best overall image clarity on the VR market behind the HP Reverb.
  
• Uses OLED panels, which provide superior color range and depth.
  
• 90 Hz screen refresh rate provides smooth head tracking, so most people with motion sickness won't have problems.
  
• The spacing between the lenses can be adjusted for individuals with interpupillary distance (IPD) outside of the average range, making it more accessible.
  
• Included headphones provide good audio quality.
  
• Extremely easy setup, only two cables and no tracking sensors.
  
• Can be used in conjunction with SteamVR tracking solutions that support the HTC Vive wands or Valve Index controllers, providing an upgrade path if you're unsatisfied with the Windows controllers and don't want to pay for a whole new VR set.
  
• Windows Mixed Reality ecosystem allows for some optimized games to be played on a much wider range of hardware. Space Pirate Trainer, for example, is supported at a 60 Hz refresh rate on an Intel HD 620 integrated graphics chip if purchased through the Windows Store.
  
  Neutral:
  
  
• 110° vertical field of view.
  
• Uses inside-out tracking.
  
• Controllers require user-replaceable AA batteries.
  
• Customer support is adequate, but the serial numbers for Windows Mixed Reality HMDs can't be registered on Samsung's website. All service requests must be handled by phone.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• Only uses two forward-facing cameras for controller tracking. This can have issues when you have to reach back over your shoulders for more than two seconds.
  
• Traditional low cost Ni-MH rechargeable AAs don't output a high enough voltage to consistently power the controllers. Traditional disposable AAs or more expensive Lithium rechargeable AAs are necessary.
  
• Does not support finger tracking, controllers are strictly wand-style input.
  
• While compatible with SteamVR, not every SteamVR title supports the Windows Mixed Reality controllers. If support isn't stated outright on the game's store page, you will very likely have to do some controller configuration tweaks.
  
• No driver support for Linux users.
  
  

  Oculus Rift S - $399.00 new on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019
  

  
  Pros:
  
  

• Low cost of entry. This headset and controller bundle is $399.99 new at all retailers. While refurbished SKUs are scarce, they will likely be available over the next few months, and the sale price for new units will likely be discounted later in the year for seasonal sales.
  
• Uses the halo mounting method, ideal for larger heads and long-term comfort.
  
• Uses six cameras for controller tracking, which supports a greater range of motion than the Windows Mixed Reality headsets.
  
• Supports finger tracking with Oculus Touch.
  
• Oculus ecosystem support with exclusive software.
  
• Extremely easy setup, only two cables and no tracking sensors.
  
• Universal SteamVR controller compatibility.
  
• Superior customer service experience compared to most of its competition.
  
  Neutral:
  
  
• 110° vertical field of view.
  
• Uses inside-out tracking.
  
• Controllers feature built-in lithium-ion rechargeable batteries.
  
• "Screen door effect" filtering isn't as good as its competition in this price bracket, though still better than most.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• 1280x1440 resolution per eye is inferior to its competition in this price bracket.
  
• Uses LCD panels, which provide a more flat range of color compared to OLED.
  
• 80 Hz screen refresh rate is still relatively smooth, though people more sensitive to motion sickness may have problems with it.
  
• The spacing between lenses cannot be adjusted, so individuals with interpupillary distance (IPD) outside of the average range will not be able to use the Rift S.
  
• Included headphones provide a poor audio experience, the bass is especially weak.
  
• Incompatible with other controller tracking solutions.
  
• No driver support for Linux users.
  
  

  HTC Vive - $480.41 on Amazon.com as of 7/3/2019
  

  
  Pros:
  
  

• Uses OLED panels, which provide superior color range and depth.
  
• 90 Hz screen refresh rate provides smooth head tracking, so most people with motion sickness won't have problems.
  
• The spacing between the lenses can be adjusted for individuals with interpupillary distance (IPD) outside of the average range, making it more accessible.
  
• Universal SteamVR controller compatibility.
  
• "Lighthouse" tracking provides the best range of motion for controllers out of any VR controller tracking solution currently available.
  
• Can be used in conjunction with SteamVR tracking solutions that support the Valve Index controllers, providing an upgrade path if you're unsatisfied with the HTC Vive wand controllers and don't want to pay for a whole new VR set.
  
• Driver support for Linux users.
  
  Neutral:
  
  
• 110° vertical field of view.
  
• Controllers feature built-in lithium-ion rechargeable batteries.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• High cost of entry. This is especially noticeable given that superior competitors have emerged at a lower cost since the HTC Vive's original release back in 2016.
  
• Velcro strap-based head mounting solution is more uncomfortable than the competition.
  
• 1080x1200 resolution per eye, the worst in its price bracket.
  
• "Screen door effect" is very noticeable when looking at the panels for extended periods.
  
• No included audio solution. You must either use your own headphones or purchase the Deluxe Audio Strap separately for $99.99 new.
  
• Does not support finger tracking, controllers are strictly wand-style input.
  
• More involved setup process than its competition. Six cables and a bridge must be connected between the PC and the HMD, and two Lighthouses must be plugged in and secured above head level in two different locations across a room diagonally for optimal coverage.
  
• Infamously bad customer service that regularly breaks warranty law for EU customers and often charges for repairs for unrelated issues or problems that should be covered under warranty for worldwide customers.

Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.

For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:

• Any of the T300 + T3PA bundles, for example the T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition - Great wheel, best entry level wheel by far. With decent pedals, optional brake mod included that, imo, improves the feel a lot. Clutch included.
  
  
• TH8A shifter - Fairly cheap, all things considered,
  
  
• Simetik K2 cockpit - Very sturdy and customizable for its price, and also doesn't have that annoying bar down the middle that basically inhibits you from heel-and-toe downshifting that most of the other cheap rigs have.
  
  All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.
  
  The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.

I have recommended this to many people, and I honestly think it is the best set up on the market right now: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522886090&sr=8-3&keywords=thrustmaster+t16000m

I see some people saying to get World Traffic. I think you would have a better time doing something like VATSIM than using World Traffic.

Planes I would recommend:

Flight Factor A320 - Pricey, but it pays you can see the high quality you are paying for. In my opinion, it is the best plane on the market in any flight sim.

Flight Factor 757 Extended - Another one of my favorites. I enjoy having the passenger and cargo variants, I am super into flying cargo runs.

Few others things, other than planes:

If you fly in the US, KSLC by ShortFinal is an amazing payware scenery. ShortFinal also known as MisterX on the forums, is, in my opinion, the best scenery maker in X-Plane.

Sometimes the best things for this game are free. If you have the storage space, and you think your game can handle it, download Ortho4XP and get some ortho scenery.

If I think of anything else I will add another comment

Kiwi straps suck. Mamut Grips are best for big hands, but are good. AMVR are the best grips. I own both grips. I threw the kiwi things in the garbage.

The silicon interface depends on the person. It doesn't sandpaper your face like the stock one, and feels nice and cool for the first 5 minutes, but it feels awful once it gets sweaty - imagine a wet rubber wedgie on your face. I currently have the VRCover 'facial interface set' with the 'comfort' pad that is pleather. It isn't perfect, but its the best I have found.

I hear some good things about the Studioform strap, but it looks hot and one more thing to mess with. I went went with the Vive Deluxe Audio Strap, but that costs money. I ripped the headphones out of it, so I just have stock audio. I love the quick-adjust thing on the DAS like a hard hat - makes switching people so much faster and better.

Then there is the cable. I don't do the Oculus Link, but even so I have kids and I have heard of people ruining the cable charge port on the Quest yanking on it. I got one of those magnetic USB adapters to reduce the risk of port damage.

All of the goodies need to fit in a case, and I love this thing - its super sturdy and fits it all without being too big.

Then if you want to play in the dark you need a good IR light so it is dark for your wife to sleep but the Quest can still see.

If you're looking for a tactile switch then MX Brown isn't particularly tactile but you may like it, it's good to try a variety of different switches as well, so perhaps try getting a switch tester. However if you just want to get straight into getting a board, here a few options:

• the Magicforce68 has been a pretty good option for some time at £30 with Outemu Brown switches (Cherry MX clones)
  Link
  
  
• There's also the DREVO Gramr 84 with a similar layout, which I prefer to the Magicforce68 Link
  
  
• RK61 is another one available on Amazon, it's a 60% board so may take some getting used to coming from a full size board Link
  
  
• Aerocool TK50 is a full size board with MX brown clones Link
  
  It might also be a good idea trying to get a board with hotswappable switches, so that you can buy new switches in the future to swap in. There are also some good tactile vintage boards you can get, however prices for these may vary - Chyrosran22 on YouTube has a lot of videos about some really good vintage boards and does many overviews of different switches.
  
  Hope you're able to find a good board for a good price! - Just PM me if you wanna talk more.

There are really only three reasons to build a stick, and short-term cost isn't one of them:

1. Build quality. A custom stick can use an all-metal case or even wood, both of which tend to be more durable than plastics found in many popular commercial sticks.
   
   
2. Parts. Custom sticks are generally very easy to modify, all of the hardware and PCBs can be replaced easily. Couple this with a good case and it's not uncommon for your arcade stick to last multiple generations of consoles, with just a PCB upgrade. Customs sticks allow you to use the hardware you prefer, the layout you prefer, and you can find PCBs that work on more systems than are usually available in retail sticks.
   
   
3. It's your own. You can not only customize the art, but the look of the stick itself. The best custom sticks are amazing pieces of art in their own right when the case, art, and hardware all complement each other. Many commercial sticks you can't change the art, and even for the few where that's possible, you are still stuck with the default case.
   
   Because of the first two reasons, a custom stick can be a great long-term investment, since a new PCB is much, much cheaper than a new high-quality stick.
   
   In the short-term though, it costs as much as a high end stick, especially if your case is all-metal or other high cost solutions.
   
   In your case I would recommend the new Mayflash sticks, like this one or something like the Qanba Drone.
   
   Both sticks you could upgrade with a little work, but are in any case good starter sticks. You might find them a little small or too light, and the parts aren't the highest quality, but it's probably best to start with one of these sub $100 options, then if you are enjoying stick a lot, move to a high end sanwa stick for ~$250.

Holy wow thank you for the in depth response. Just really started getting into true sim racing and the whole community has been awesome so far.
I've been using a crap wheel/controller so I'm basically looking at my first true set up. That means Logitech and others are out because I want to be in an ecosystem I can upgrade and grow over time. That seems to mean Fanatec or Thristmaster right now.
With that in mind , I'm comparing integrated products, base wheel and pedals together. The best prices I've found on new products so far have been through Fanatec direct and Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-playstation-4/dp/B015KJ0SES
https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/bundle/product;bundle_id;153

They both have awesome upsides with huge upgrades I can make over time, which is really the most important thing to me right now. If I wind up living and breathing sim racing, I'll eventually want to go direct drive, but I don't have any plans to do so as of yet.
Plus, in all honesty, if I don't stick with sim racing for the very long term (which I think is unlikely, but always a possibility), the Elite and T300 both seem to retain their value pretty well, definitely better than the current crop of Logitech and other brands.

Thoughts on the above would be awesome! Thanks again.

Some recommendations.
Ambidextrous mouses
Dream Machines DM1 FPS - Have heard good things about these mouses. Haven't used one personally but would not be against one if I was looking to try something different than what I already have.
Zowie FK series - Difference between the FK1, FK1+ and FK2 are just size.
Logitech G Pro - Personally I prefer the original over the new version with the Hero sensor because I like the PMW3366 better than the Hero16K but most people state they can't notice the difference. Also, original is pretty cheap right now.

Ergonomic mouses
Zowie EC series - Users report having issues with the scroll wheels on the B models (EC1-B,EC2-B) but that seems to be hit or miss. I have an EC2-B that I love and have no issues with. The B models have a newer sensor than the A models. B models have the PMW3360 sensor.
Logitech G403 - Great sensor (PMW3366) and fairly light at just over 87 grams.

You will probably notice these are some of the most popular mouses on this subreddit, haha. Take my recommendations with a grain of salt and do your own research as well. Hope this helped in any way!

Compared to what are commonly called "arcade" racing games, "sim" racing games typically require more precision & better timing, and are thus considerably less forgiving & more difficult to control. I think people who enjoy the challenge and are willing to spend a significant amount of time practicing smartly can probably reach a somewhat safe (for others sharing the track with you) level of competency within a few weeks. Becoming competitive, however, can take much longer. There are lots of free resources online for learning how to improve.

Fanatical.com currently has a sale on Project CARS 2 for $28.79 (52%-off) - and there's also a free demo on Steam to try (which I recommend before you spend anything). Assetto Corsa is $29.99 (and a few times a year, it usually goes on sale for less). Both games have an offline practice mode & a single-player career mode to learn in before venturing into their online multi-player modes. Please do other racers a favor and avoid going online until after you've developed a solid grasp on safely controlling your car in traffic. ;)

The Logitech G29 wheel is popular (currently available new for $269 at Amazon.com). The ThrustMaster T150 is a budget-priced entry-level wheel (currently available new for $200 at Amazon.com). As long as you're not too rough with either of those, they should last long enough for you reach a point where you know if sim racing is something you want to go further with.

Unless you've got lots of disposable income to throw around, I wouldn't recommend spending more until after you become somewhat competitive with a budget setup.

Good luck & have fun!

There is no correct sensitivity when it comes to playing a certain hero or playstyle. It's all personal preference and how much practice you have put into the hero and game. I have known players who are very good at aiming with both extremely high and low sensitivities. Of course, if you are setting your sensitivity for the first time like you just picked up a mouse, I would say set it to where a full span across your mousepad will do a 360. (With no acceleration. Make sure you turn that off. If your mouse has that on automatically, get a new one.) From there, you have to test yourself to see if you are over/undershooting, or you think it just feels incorrect. In the case where you have a small mousepad and bad mouse. Investing in a good mouse would probably be worth the money. You can find the best mouse for your handshape and grip which will probably turn up the best results. (RJN has a good website for easily finding it.) Or, if you are on a budget, there are nice mice which you can find for about $50 - assuming you are in the USA or can order from amazon easily. (Here a few options. Razer Deathadder, CORSAIR Harpoon, Logitech G Pro, one of my favourite mice, seriously.) If your mousepad feels like a problem, you can get one that fits your whole desk lengthwise. You don't have to get a big name brand or anything, just one that has decent quality.
Good luck with your games.

T300 Alcantara Bundle is the wheel to get. Its good all around, good base, good wheel and also pretty good pedals. Should be everything you need to get you started.

The T300 is the succesor to the T500 and its a better base in virtually everything.

iRacing is the place to go for public online simracing. Its expensive, but has a good penalty system that forces clean racing. It's good competition.

Alternatively you can also look for a league and race with them in any game really. Most serious simracing with fair opponents and no ramming etc is done in leagues or iRacing. It's not impossible to find good racing publicly in games, but often it has some rammers or the like.

There are many leagues out there, personally I race with Racedepartment but there are many more groups around.

Best game on how to learn is a difficult one, any game can do really ,the fundamentals of driving fast (and safe) are the same both in real life as well as in any simracing game.

I'd recommend watching this video on racing fundamentals, it covers everything to get you started. Don't expect to be the new Max Verstappen in just a few hours though :)

Whats your current specs?

I'd say avoid VR initially, I personally think it is the better overall experience but its a bit tough to learn DCS in and costs more overall in terms of hardware and performance.

So for under $1k budget, I'd get something like this if you can fit it in your space, or you could spend a bit more and get the [warthog]
(https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N77385WVH3Q2D79PYPY2) which is a great setup, just no pedals.

Then, trackir or Open track for sure. And yes, you described how it works but its not a 1:1 head turn, and you can change the sensitivity. I don't really move my head more than 15 degrees or so.

Then I'd suggest buying the F/A-18, its a good mix of difficulty and capability.

After that, I'd go for the bottle neck in your system, but I dunno your specs. I'd suggest a 2070 super if you can afford it, or see if you can pick up some decent components over at /r/hardwareswap

After you've got some hours and feeling like you need more, maybe start saving for a VR headset, I'd suggest the index, but I've heard great things about the rift-s. Odessy + on a budget if need be.

No need to apologize. I certainly haven't owned every board out there, so the best I can do is take a look at reviews to feature set with you.


So first, let's decide some things.
Do you want a backlight? If so, does it need to be RGB?


What size board do you prefer? I would suggest going no lower than tenkeyless if you're using it at all for some professional work, only because it could temporarily slow down your work rate because some keys will be in different positions or missing entirely. This may take getting used to. If you're up for that, that's cool too. Full size boards have a numberpad, some are larger with "macro" keys. There are variations with fewer keys, that maybe don't have arrow keys etc. and are slightly smaller. Then there's tenkeyless, which has no numbpad, and then smaller variations often with no function keys or arrow keys, with their functions require key combos.


We've got a price range, and we're going for mechanical, but I'm wondering how much branding and brand names matter to you. There are some boards out there with big logos, and they can be ugly as sin, doesn't affect functionality, but cosmetics are worth considering on something you look at daily. Next, do you need a brand that's "famous?" It may be hard to find a RAZER, Corsair, CoolerMaster, or other big names in the industry under $40, depending on your required feature set.

Finally, that brings us to switch type. There's a lot of brands of switch style, and if I had to guess, you're probably gonna have trouble finding Cherry MX, the most iconic switch type, in this range. That said, some of the "copy" switches are nearly identical and have pretty solid build quality, differences only noticeable by the most sensitive of typists. So here's a quick break down of the most popular switch types:

Blue: Tactile Bump during actuation, can feel it and hear it(loudest switch, clicks on bump, clacks when the key "bottoms out" or is pressed all the way down)

Brown: Very light tactile bump(I don't really feel it if I've just been typing on my blue or Razer green switch board), makes a sound when bottoming out. This is considered the happy medium, somewhat silent, can be made very quiet with an accessory, still had tactile feedback.

Red: Silent, linear switches. Not whisper silent, but much quieter, no noise or tactile bump when the keypress is actuated. I really don't think you'll be able to snag a new board with these.

Black: Silent, almost exactly like reds, but require more force to press down, they're not too popular as people complain they make their fingers tired. However, I see them a lot under budget boards.


The Blue, Brown and Reds are the most common. There are more switches out there, and some brands use different colors to associate the style, but the styles are largely the same.


I'm gonna link(not affiliate links) some boards, just to show the styles and backlighting options off, these are mostly a bit out of your price range, but this should give you a general idea of what they look like, and how much extra things like RGB cost:

Pretty standard tenkeylessboard: https://www.amazon.com/TOMOKO-Water-Resistant-Mechanical-Keyboard-Non-Conflicting/dp/B01DBJTZU2/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206833&sr=8-31&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


A compact board, I believe it's a 75% variation: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Keyboard-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-4&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Tenkeyless RGB: https://www.amazon.com/Keyboard-Mechanical-Redragon-illuminated-ABS-Metal/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520205858&sr=8-5&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Fullsize board, the standard: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Mechanical-Programmable-Waterproof-Anti-Ghosting/dp/B073QPDZHQ/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1520206906&sr=8-45&keywords=rgb+mechanical+keyboard


Now, these are mostly "cheap" brands, in that they're not ultra famous like RAZER, or Corsair, etc. But, these are some of the more highly rated boards. Of course, you absolutely do not have to buy from amazon either, and these are mostly out of the range, so please get back to me on the style and backlighting options you'd like. I think one of these "knock off" brands will be your best bet, particularly if you want backlighting. Other users are of course free to offer advice too.


Once you tell me, generally, the size, and switch type we're after, we can try to find some boards that are on sale, not just the stuff I quickly found that was relatively cheap and well reviewed. Sometimes you can get something that seems a decent price, for even less if you watch and wait. So that might be worth considering too.

Please let me know your preferences, and I hope my explanations were somewhat clear.

Generally, the best keyboards are ones with Cherry MX Mechanical switches.

There are 3 types of switches that people mainly go for.

Red switches are linear switches, that means they don't have a bump. They are don't have a click, but make a large clacking sound. They will not have any feeling at the actuation point (The point where the keyboard recongizes your input). These are generally recongized as better for gaming rather than typing.

Blue keys will have an audible click at the point where the keyboard recongnizes your input. There will also be a slight bump at that point as well. These are generally recongized for being better at typing than gaming.

Brown keys are the middle between red and blue keys. Brown keys will keep the slight bump at the point where the keyboard recongizes your input, but does away with the click sounds of blue keys

Generally, the best keyboards will have genuine cherry mx switches of any type. That should be your starting point. Then you can add things like volume controls, backlighting, etc etc etc. Generally, the keyboard that stuffs the most of these features while keeping cherry mx switches will be your best deal.

All of these will be good gaming keyboards while keeping under your budget:

https://www.amazon.com/CM-Storm-QuickFire-XT-Mechanical/dp/B00EQV0W02/ref=sr_1_40?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480556&sr=1-40&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Mechanical-Keyboard-HX-KB1RD1-NA-A1/dp/B01NCX88FQ/ref=sr_1_37?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480525&sr=1-37&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01ITE93OM/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-16&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-920-007857/dp/B01CDYB8F6/ref=sr_1_17?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-17&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-BlackWidow-Ultimate-Mechanical-Programmable/dp/B01CVOMWXU/ref=sr_1_22?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-22&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-Backlight-keyboard/dp/B01872MCIA/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-11&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Keyboard-Mechanical-Backlight-keyboard/dp/B01872MCIA/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-11&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-STRAFE-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B012B6X7MI/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Compact-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00DOWCQ0I/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499480358&sr=1-4&keywords=mechanical+keyboard+cherry+mx

Definitely check out the Gamesir Wireless Controller for ₹2k

I know 2k may seem pricy but it’s worth it IMO. 100% recommended. Look it up.

https://www.amazon.in/Gamesir-Wireless-Controller-Android-Black/dp/B019H5II8Y?tag=googinhydr18418-21&tag=googinkenshoo-21&ascsubtag=8b027a83-4b81-4248-b793-0f2ab8ca3dce

Works with PC/PS3/Android/iOS

The nice thing is that it has the XBox’s buttons, so if a game with Xinput tells you “press X” you know to press X on your gamepad, which is useful for fighting games.

Same can’t be said about the PS3/PS4 gamepads which have shape buttons. If a game tells you to press X, you’ll have to press “▣” on your gamepad. That can get annoying.

It’s really good and feels like the PS4 controller (I’ve used a PS4 gamepad a few times).



but If you don’t want to spend 2k you can check out the wireless Redgear one for 1.3k. I haven’t tried this but it has good reviews and is a best seller. The [cheaper] wired model is unavailable.


Sorry if you wanted some super cheap get-the-job-done controllers. I’ve always presumed super cheap ones were a waste of money so I never bothered with them.

Won't be a jet engine. But if you want it to be more silent, you could buy 2 more aftermarket coolers. And replace the 2 stock fans.

I am a big fan (pun intended) of Noctua, Be Quiet, Gentle, Bitfenix and some CoolerMaster fans for when on a budget.

As for the peripherals.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
Keyboard | Gigabyte GK-OSMIUM BRN Wired Gaming Keyboard | £74.98 @ Amazon UK
Headphones | Kingston HyperX Cloud Pro Headset | £50.99 @ Amazon UK
Mouse| Logitech G402| £38.00 @ Amazon UK
Mousepad| Qpad FX-44 Large| £18.00 @ Amazon UK
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | £181.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-12-10 02:16 GMT+0000 |


Keyboard: MX browns, macro keys, white backlight, nice wristrest, not that expensive. Very suttle look on it as well. I couldn't find to many reviews, but here is an unboxing and overview.
Headphones: Review! Very solid review. It as well matches our build and it's freaking "cheap" for a gaming headset. i wish I had enough money to give this one to my friend where I game with a lot, his headset is terrible and his microphone is a lot worse.
Mouse: Review! Again I don't really need to say more then this. If they still sell this mouse at the time that my own dies, I will get this one. I personally use the G400s wich got a "weaker' sensor and fewer buttons. But is still an amazing mouse.
Mousepad: This is pretty personal, but most people do like a cloth surface. Including myself. A tip when you get it: put it in the dryer for a few minutes. This will remove the wraps that it got after you unpack it. If you don't like the design and want a clean look instead. The SteelSeries heavy is a great alternative, with basicly the same dimensions as the Qpad.

So this past Saturday night I was browsing some reddit. I happened to stumble across this photo, which awoke a desire in me to own a mechanical keyboard. Until now I thought mechanical keyboards were just a gamer thing and the only style they came in was black keyboards with RGB flashing all over the place. But seeing that picture made me realize that there is a huge variety of ways you can aesthetically customize a board. So the past few days I've spent a lot of my spare time doing research and trying to decide what I ultimate want in my "dream" mechanical keyboard. I've ordered a cheaper mechanical keyboard off Amazon for now until I've settled on what I want.

Sorry for the story, I just thought it was worth mentioning and giving you my very brief history and knowledge of mechanical keyboards (or lack thereof). Anyway, I have two questions:

1. What are some quality 75% or higher keyboards with a completely compact design? By compact design, I mean no empty space between key groupings. Like this. I want f-keys and some kind of arrows (either actual arrow keys or a numpad with numlock). Preferably Cherry MX switches, or something that supports Cherry MX stemmed keycaps. I imagine I'm looking in all the wrong places, but I haven't seen many keyboards like that. The Red Scarf III Ver.A pictured above was part of a massdrop, and the Drevo 84 Key Gramr is a budget board. I assume the Noppoo Choc Mini 84 NKRO is my answer? Are there any others?
   
2. Where can I get my hands on a nice set of SA/DSA profile keycaps? I'm in love with the Nantucket set, but they just wrapped up a groupbuy. The few times I've seen them on r/mechmarket they've either sold out super fast or are priced higher than I can comfortably pay for them. Royal Navy seems equally hard to hunt down. I also wouldn't mind a carbon/industrial look like the GMK Carbon set. I know that pimpmykeyboard has some SA and DSA sets, but I'm not too fond of any of them (and if I'm going to be spending $100+ on a keyset, I want to be happy with what I get).

The X56 is a bit expensive for what it is, and has dubious quality where you either get a stick that works for five years or that breaks after a few days. Supposedly the quality got better when Saitek got bought out, but I don't know how much I trust that.

On the other hand, the T16000M HOTAS is a well-proven stick and throttle combo. It has the same Hall sensors in the stick that the more expensive Warthog stick uses and has a good amount of buttons and hats that it can be used for a variety of aircraft. It is also a twist stick so you can use it for rudder control, and the throttle has a set of paddles that you can use as axis for things like zoom, brakes, rudder, or whatever else you might need.

TL;DR I'd recommend the T16000M HOTAS. And with the money you're saving from the X56 you could pick up TrackIR 5 if you don't already have it.

There's also this pack that comes with the Thrustmaster rudder pedals which are a good quality, and the pack is still less expensive than the X56 by a decent amount. I've also seen this pack on sale down to 150USD so if you're patient you could save a bit of money on it as well.

I don't know what exactly your budget is but it's also worth noting that the Warthog HOTAS tends to go on sale around the Black Friday to Xmas timeframe and you can often find it for 300USD. It's worth noting with this that the Warthog has no axis able to be used for rudders so you would need to buy rudder pedals from somewhere.

Now I do agree with putting forward the money towards flight time as those costs really add up!

I do also have to agree with your original thoughts. Having a home flight sim can be beneficial if done right.

I myself have a setup and it has helped me and I know quite a few others that’s it’s helped also. If taken serious and done right a Flight sim can be used to practice outside of training hours. It can also be very helpful for instrument training and more.

The costs aren’t cheap but to answer your original question of what the costs would be, I put this together for you as an example.

1.A Mid to high Powered Custom built PC
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/dTBcmq
(Includes basics of building a pc,)
$1864.00(+tax)

2.Prebuilt Mid to High PC(Aeon 5003)
https://m.canadacomputers.com/product.php?id=121504
$1799.99(+tax)

—Additional’s—

3.+ $73.00 (X-Plane 11 flight Sim)
https://store.steampowered.com/app/269950/XPlane_11/

4.+$199.99 (Saitek Flight Yoke & Throttle Quadrant)
https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=13_195_199&item_id=045869

5.+$199.99 (Logitech G Saitek Pro Flight Rudder Pedals (945-000024))
https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=13_195_199&item_id=045878

—Recommended to make the Experience close to realistic .—
6.+ $699.99 HTC Vive VR Headset & Kit
(Upgraded model i use is HTC Vive Pro)
https://m.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/product/htc-vive-vr-headset-with-controllers/11795009

Or

7.+ $ 529.99 Oculus Rift VR Headset Kit
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073X8N1YW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lEBWBbHYRBTCW

—Optional —

• Monitor if needed(27” ideal)
  
  —-
  
  To Sum it up the cost you would be looking at(for options 2/3/4/5/6)
  $2971.00 +tax
  
  
  Sounds like a lot but it’s value and use in what it could provide, could be greater then putting money forward for actual training.
  Remember that throughout her training/aviation career(at school and work) a lot of training ends up also being done on Flight sims.
  
  Hope this helps. Any questions feel free to ask.
  
  Cheers.

Edit: I added links to Amazon products that are pretty nice and fit into your budget, if none of these work or you wanted advice on finding similar ones on slightly cheaper budgets just let me know and I'd love to help out!

​

I realize some people like them, and I mean no disrespect to u/MNLegoBoy but please do not get him a steam controller. I own one and me and everyone I've ever known who used one absolutely hated it.

​

If he only has one monitor in his setup I would highly suggest getting him a decent second monitor to have discord, youtube, or whatever else he wants up while he plays. It can be really helpful and never hurts to have.

​

If that doesn't work, you know about his setup...

and he uses a headset with a built-in mic I would suggest getting him this microphone and this interface. Even though they're cheap they're more than good enough and make people feel more legit because they're more like a streamer setup.

​

and he really likes his headphones/has really nice headphones but doesn't have a headphone stand or mount for him to keep his headphones on and keep his desk organized.

​

and he's into fighting games or older arcade games you could get him a fighting stick (be careful on this one, if he doesn't have room or likes using his KBM I wouldn't suggest it. It might also help to get one on a higher budget.)

I wanted to buy a Zowie after reading this subredit, but they seem to be out of stock on Amazon and I will have one imported from Canada (a friend lives there and another friend will visit him, so he will buy it for me). The bad thing is I dont have much time to waste. As my friend will be coming back from Canada around June the 20th.


So, I have some options that are currently available on Amazon:

• Rival 300
  
  
• Rival 700 (currently out of stock, might keep an eye on it every day to see if its on stock again, if it is really worh it)
  
  
• SteelSeries Sensei (https://www.amazon.ca/SteelSeries-Sensei-Laser-Gaming-Rubberized/dp/B007N6HS3G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464305270&sr=8-2&keywords=steelseries+mouse)
  
  
• Roccat Kone Pure Military
  
  
• M65 RGB PRO
  
  
• G502
  
  
  Ps: I mainly play Smite, so I dunno what would be the best option. Despite Smite being a MOBA, it requires a lot of skillshot, so maybe an FPS mouse would suit me better than a regular MOBA mouse (when I play, I only use left and right click on the mouse. The scroll wheel only when I'm in the item store)
  
  Thanks for reading.
  
  
  Edit: formatting is hard

Flying with dual joysticks (and pedals) feels awesome! I got a T16000m FCS plus a T16000m FCS Flight Pack and only use the sticks and the pedal right now

I am gonna configure my setup in a way that I can switch from hosas to hotas when I am not in combat to be able to fly around more relaxed. It should be pretty easy to set up if I play around with the Target software some more.

The first time setting up dual joysticks was pretty tedious. I used TheNOOBIFIER1337's Playlist and the several reddit posts as an inspiration and finally decided to set them up more or less like in this video
To keep my desk uncluttered and my KB/M close I made a setup like this one!. Here are some more Images.

Thanks for the reply!

The controller I am using is the same one op bought (I pretty much bought everything exactly as he suggested).

Link here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZOAO0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to add a configuration to the end of the retroarch.cfg file, but for some reason I can't type quotation marks ". The pi changes quotes into an @ symbol. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

I also ran into an issue when I tried to follow the post you shared (thanks btw). When I hit F1 inside the emulator and saved a new config, the notification that it had been created ran off the side of the screen, so I was unable to find out what the file was named.

Can someone please explain to me what SSH is? I ran an HDMI cable from the pi to my monitor so I can switch back and forth from my computer to the pi using the monitor input, is that the best way to do this?

Thanks for your help, sorry for the noob questions. =)

Edit: I don't know why I ask questions before using Google-Fu. Got SSH to work using Putty. Ignore that question =)

Your English is quite good :)

I wouldn't really recommend the three options that you listed as they aren't really the best value for the money (especially so with the Logitech and the Corsair). Instead, I'd recommend either the GMMK or the Redragon K556, mainly because both of these keyboards have the ability to pull out the keyswitches and replace them with new ones, which can be extremely useful for both longevity purposes and for customizing your keyboard to your liking. The Redragon would be a good value conscious option, while the GMMK is the better choice for pulling out keyswitches, as the GMMK seems to have a wider range of compatibility versus the Redragon.

Also, unless you're specifically a fan of memchanical keyboards, I wouldn't recommend the CM Masterset, as they don't come close to replicating what an actual mechanical keyboard feels like.

/u/seapodstudios : Thanks for posting

Unfortunately, new and low karma accounts cannot create submissions in /r/Vive. Accounts should be a few days old and need to have participated constructively in the comment sections first . Do not message the moderators asking for an exception

Tip - A good place to start the daily casual conversation sticky post . You can leave comments in there on anything you want. So you may feel like sharing your topic from this thread there or joining in the other casual discussions taking place there.



------------------------

Below is a copy of the removed submission


new to vive: looking for suggestions to hit the ground running! by seapodstudios


howdy.

====

my first vive set arrived today as follows:

Black Friday bundle of the HTC VIVE Virtual Reality System comes with a free VIVE Deluxe Audio Strap and includes Fallout 4 VR, Google’s Tilt Brush, and a free trial for Viveport Subscription.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VF5NT4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/HTC-Vive-Deluxe-Audio-Strap-pc/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1511815008&sr=1-3&keywords=vive+headset

====

i have also ordered a tripod setup as follows:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U5F3OE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VAH3KWC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2TNW8ZCY8P5MD&psc=1

====

the vive hardware arrived today (!) and the rest is set to arrive wednesday along with my first alienware box (wootwoot). i'm hoping to hit the ground running on wednesday with regard to any extension cables i might need to cover a 10'x10'x10' play space that will be covered by an 8'x10' carpet on hardwood for tactile reinforcement of the concierge.

if anybody has any tips/links to share re: pitfalls to avoid during setup that would also be greatly appreciated.

	

	

	

I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Let me preface this with saying I think you should just get a PS4 controller because it's best at that price range. That being said, I can kind of see why maybe you'd want to get a cheap stick. Maybe you aren't sure you really wanna use one, so don't want to commit $200 and you'd like to try it first, which seems relatively reasonable.

You won't find one for less than $50 though, but for $55 there's https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 which at least exists. It isn't going to be great, but it's at least an arcade stick and even though it isn't high quality or anything it's going to feel like any other stick from the standpoint of the layout. So if you've never used a stick and just want to try one to see if you like it I think that's probably the best you can do.

Again though, I think just use a pad, there's nothing wrong with it, they work for other games as well, and it's cheaper and wireless.

Hmm. Well luckily there are lots of options for small mice so it shouldn't be an issue. Possibly even the diamondback, I believe the reason its not well reviewed is its unergonomic flat shape, most mice fit the hand better but of course this could be good for some people. Anyways moving on:

Logitech G Pro https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Advanced-Sensor-Competitive/dp/B01JPOLLTK/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1481510038&sr=1-1&keywords=logitech+g+pro
Confusingly it actually is named the G Pro. Its basically a small, simple mouse but it has the best sensor on the market and is made by Logitech so it should in theory last a while.

Zowie za13 https://www.amazon.com/Zowie-Competitive-Gaming-Optical-ZA13/dp/B012B6XVKQ
This is their only mouse listed as small. I haven't personally tried one though, but their ec2-a has the same internals and is widely regarded as a good mouse, I liked it.

If you want any other suggestions or help let me know!

>is it really true that dpi is just a marketing ploy?

Pretty much.
Here is a slightly outdated but still relevant spreadsheet of CSGO pro player setups.

I'd recommend the logitech g203 prodigy, which you can snag for like 30 bucks.
Nearly identical to the g-pro, but without the 50 dollar pricetag, and with a slightly less over the top sensor which has effectively no impact on how well it performs.
2 side buttons + an extra center button; more than enough for FPS games or anything that doesn't require a dozen side button binds.

If you don't already have one, you'll also want a good quality decently sized mousepad with plenty of extra room to use a moderate/lower sensitivity if that's something you'll find helpful.
Standard office sized mousepads leave you cramped for movement room and a lot of people using them end up using sensitivity way too high to compensate.
You can find good pads for around and under $10.

The Mayflash F300 is super cheap and really durable and comes with great parts- nothing beats this within that price range and many people start off w/ the F300 due to these reasons; it's an overall great stick and has an amazing price.

The F300 has a newer version though which is the F500 it's about $30 more expensive, but the case itself is a bit bigger so it sits on the lap easier(also better for people with bigger hands) and has some metal plates on the top and bottom which means more durability and just feels more premium. It also includes more features than the F300 such as: a headphone jack(apple?) and a much easier artwork change option. Hopefully this helps, but you should also watch some YouTube vids about budget fightsticks as theres tons of content about those :)

Hi there, sorry for the late answer I was out for the week-end!

It will depends highly on what you expect him to do with it, and also your budget. But for the more standard it will be at least:

• The Pi
  
  
• A power cable: the "Alim" was a bad use of a french word for power cable
  
  
• A case or another (You can also build one with Legos! :D )
  
  
• a microSD card for the OS (no preference I took the first link I saw)
  
  Then there can be:
  
  
• A usb wifi adapter if the can't plug an ethernet cable
  
  
• An hdmi cable if you think he will use it on his TV or standard PC monitor.
  
  
• About the controller, if you think he will build a media center linked to his TV with the HDMI cable, some TVs allow the use of "CEC" controller, and so his TV command will be automatically compatible with the Pi. Else, he can use a classic keyboard and mouse set, or some mobile solution or even a snes usb controller if he wants to build a retrogaming console
  
  
• To finish if you have a large budget for your friend there is a lot of accessories you can find in the related articles of the Pi on Amazon, like a webcam, a motion sensor module
  
  
• You can also buy a complete bundle or a starter kit like this if you think he will have fun with all the electronic parts :)
  
  And I confirm, it can be a pretty cool gift for a friend to build :)

I've never used a deathadder, but if I could make some recommendations, the Logitech G400 and Perixx MX-2000B are really good mice in my experience. the [G400] (http://amzn.com/B0055QZ216) is particularly liked by the people over at /r/mousereview for its sensor, and it's just a nice looking, minimal mouse. I just got the [Perixx MX-2000B] (http://amzn.com/B0083H4NG4) and while it's a branded version of a mouse that some other companies use, I can tell you it's a very comfortable mouse to use and works well in gaming. Doesn't hurt that it's $31.99 and you get stuff like LED customization and weight tuning.

Oh god, yes, we have. You ordered from HTC direct, correct?

Good luck to you comrade. There's many of us that... Don't have very nice things to say about HTC. In any case, enjoy your Vive! It is a fantastic piece of kit. Think about getting the Deluxe Audio Strap for increased comfort and pretty nice built in headphones.

Its this one.

GameSir G3s - an fyi this is a Canadian link - this is Green but I have the black one which looks sold out and being resold for much higher than retail. The App I use supports other gamepads too.

I dug up the link for the US one for those not in the Kingdom of Canada.

It does ship with a phone holder to mount it ontop so just make sure yours fits before you consider buying.

The App is Matsu player and it does N64,PS1, All gameboy models, Snes, Nes and I think a few others. Ive tried them all and they run pretty good.

Free one has ads but after I used it for a bit of time and saw how good it ran I sprang for the full version. To each their own but I knew I'd get enough time out of it to warrant the upgrade and go ad-less.

Did you ever type on a mechanical keyboard? The first time I tried one I was immediately faster while typing and it felt amazing.

Programmability and therefore macros seems to be standard most of the time, even my 25€ board could program every single key to my liking.
The Vortex Race 3 I bought supports macros of up to 32 keystrokes. The reason I bought a 75% keyboard over an even smaller one is so I can use the F-Row for gaming macros.
I can't imagine the left row of dedicated macro keys on the horde to be very comfortable to reach.

I don't want to put you off of your decision, but I'd highly encourage you to check out the other options you have with 100€. If you still find the horde to fit your needs the best, than it is still a great decision for you.

Edit:
Check out the Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro L

Or the hyper X fury alloy

Both are decent full size gaming keyboards and if you've got the spare money they are also available as RGB.

I was about to write a lengthy text, until I realized that all i was saying has already been discussed :-)

I would love to recommend you the Thrustmaster VG T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition , but the Logitech's QC has been really bad, and I don't know if they have improved in the last two years or not, so I can't really recommend them with a straight face...

The G29 is basically a slightly updated G27 minus the H-shifter (which you can buy separately if needs be). Some people are angry because of the omitment of the shifter, therefore the mixed reviews, otherwise it's a great set.

If you get more serious about sim-racing, and want to get better lap-times you can mod the G27 brake pedal with a loadcell...either totally diy (around 100 dollar) or with a kit (130 dollar).

It all depends on your budget obviously, but the G29 is definitively a very good set with the ability to mod the hell out of the brake pedal (if you ever feel the need to do so).

If you have more questions I am sure the guys and gals at /r/simracing are glad to help you (especially as the majority of them has more experience than I have...I'm still only entry-level enthusiast hehe).

-)

Well taking into account your price range I would say this is probably your best bet; the logitech G402.

It's £40-45 but it is a really reliable accurate mouse. I used to use it myself before I got a razer deathadder (more expensive). The two buttons on the side are comfortable for your thumb, and there are also 2 more up on the clicker. They don't get in the way though and are actually pretty difficult to click, I never even used them, so don't worry about those ones.

The mouse is accurate, reliable, pretty light and free-flowing. Just get a good mouse mat (would recommend steelseries qck) and download the logitech gaming software to adjust your DPI to something you like.

I have and like my Logitech G410 which fits all of your criteria. From logitech you will pay more than your budget but you can get it for cheaper via 3rd party. Its $70 right now on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Spectrum-Tenkeyless-Mechanical-920-007731/dp/B01645FHEI

I also really like and actually use my Drevo TKL more tho which is not RGB: https://www.amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506356645&sr=1-5&keywords=drevo But one of the main reasons I really like this keyboard isthat the F-keys are directly in line with the number keys.

Drevo also has a RGB option but it doesnt have the inline F-keys: https://www.amazon.com/Element-Water-Proof-Mechanical-Keyboard-Anti-Ghost/dp/B01FXF7HFC/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506356645&sr=1-15&keywords=drevo

Overall I use my drevo for the very specific reason of the in-line f-keys and its a feature I really value. However if this isnt important I would recomend the G410. But any of these listed keyboards wont steer you wrong.

Cheers!

Hey dude.

Thanks for the awesome write up. Over the last week I've been mulling over getting into my first board. I too was super overwhelmed by all the information and the learning curve. I was intimidated by the really cool custom boards but knew I was nowhere near that level yet. Just yesterday I finally pulled the trigger on these two Items Filco Majestouch Numpad and Cooler Master MasterKeys S. Im pretty excited to see where things go. I'll eventually get some keycaps.

I do a lot of number entry at work and wanted to have a left side number pad, hence the two items. I saw this board online DSI LEFT HANDED USB KEYBOARD but was a little turned off by MX-Red only and then it being a board from 2012. I'm not sure how quality has changed the last 6 years and I wanted to go with MX-Browns for my first board. Maybe a little foolish to buy two items, but I was afraid of how hard it may be to switch from red to brown.

I think I'll eventually get into a full custom board where I can have a more compact layout but still have a Tenkey on the left side. We'll see how that goes. I'm hesitant to get a bunch of tools that would be needed to make a board. Hopefully more left side tenkey options will come out some day.

Anyway, tldr: just got my first board, looking forward to the adventure. Thanks for the info and the kind welcome to the community.

A little review on my 5K XR:

The headstrap is really s**t - cannot emphasise this enough. It is easily solved with the HTC Vive Deluxe Audio strap

HTC Vive Audio Strap

That requires a person with a 3D printer to make you three pieces, one for the top and one for each side.

Now we have something that works, but the faceplate is also s**t, so again, in steps HTC Vive:

Vive Cover

So now you want to know how it works, given that I am not experiencing pain just having the headset on?

I upgraded to the PIMAX from the Oculus CV1.

I have mainly used it for DCS, but have done a few sessions in IL2. I have an NVIDIA 2080TI, and I really would not spend the money on the headset if you cannot afford the graphics card, so that's about 2 grand american right there, net whatever pennies you can get for your Oculus and 1080.

So, now how does it work? - I got violently sick with the normal and wide FOV, just like in my parents' car as a child. The side view flashes past and made me sick.

I then changed to narrow view, and everything was fine, at least for me. I have friends who are happy in both normal and wide.

The cockpit is a lot clearer than with the Rift. With a reversed baseball cap under the straps, I can now tighten them enough that I can dogfight with no headset movement, even with a headset on top, which is an improvement on the Rift.

So my conclusion is, after a lot of farting around with both the strap and the graphics settings (PTool, DCS etc.), it is a huge improvement over the Rift and has made my DCS experience materially more immersive.

However, if you want a plug and play device, then this is definitely not for you, even if you have the two grand lying around.

[16AGR]Durham out.

I'm a bit late to the party but I would highly recommend this. It is cheap and amazing, slightly on the small side but it is great. It has an adjustable weight, macros, custom led, DPI button so you can change your DPI on the fly. Highly recommend and for the price its 100% worth it!

So I was searching around a bit more since you guys made some compelling arguments and found another pretty cool contender. The Redragon K556 Devarajas seems really awesome. This one is actually all metal unlike the corsair, still has all the features I liked about the corsair, and is quite a bit cheaper!

Also, I was checking out the brands you guys suggested, like Ducky and Coolermaster but it seems that they charge a bit more for the backlighting. Ducky has some really nice ones but they tend to run at around 150 with RGB, while coolermaster runs about 140.

My logic here is that the Redragon could hold me over for a couple of years until I have a better job and can afford a 150-200 dollar range keyboard.

Fingers crossed that ya'll like the Redragon haha

Looking to buy my first mech keyboard, preferably less than $140 AUD, that has white or blue backlighting, is full sized, has a standard key layout and has Cherry MX Browns. I'd also like something not too flashy.

I had my heart set on this, but the price has gone back up. I looked around Amazon and saw this, does it look like a good one? And if not, does anyone know of any good alternatives?

I was originally planning on buying from an Australian store, but some keyboards on Amazon US with shipping are cheaper than in Australia without shipping. Thanks Australia tax...

64GB of ram is a lot, a 2TB SSD is a lot as well. 500GB HDD is not a good option, 1TB is way better. It's possible with your budget:

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 1700 | $289.99 @ superbiiz
Motherboard | MSI B350 Tomahawk | $99.99 @ Amazon.com
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LED white DDR4-3000 CL15 (64 GB) | $599.99 @ newegg
Storage | WD Blue WD10EZEX (1 TB) | $45.79 @ superbiiz
SSD | Crucial MX300 (2 TB) | $544.62 @ Amazon.com
Case | BitFenix Comrade Midi-Tower - white Window | $59.99 @ superbiiz
Operating System | Windows 10 Home (32/64-bit, USB Flash Drive) | $102.99 @ superbiiz
| Total | $1743.36
| Generated by pc-kombo 20.09.2017 |

The Ryzen 7 1700 is an 8-core with 16 threads. It is a regular consumer cpu that is a good fit for things like video rendering, but you should be aware that with your budget a high core count threadripper cpu would also be possible, just not with as much ram and ssd storage.

The case is white and with a window, since it has to be a specific size and support an optical drive there was not much choice. You might want to swap out the mainboard to have a different style, but what I saw as a better fit was too expensive.

The display could be as simple as https://www.productchart.com/monitors/10237, proper 24" curved displays from Samsung.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826816067 is a nice mouse (with RGB), https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-KUMARA-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B019O9BLVY?th=1 a keyboard with RGB backlight. There are of course many other options, also some white ones.

I'm not which optical drive you want (dvd, bluray?), and don't know nothing about standalone microphones.

Currently looking for my first mechanical keyboard. I've looked at the wiki, but there's so much information I'm honestly a bit overwhelmed.

At the moment I've narrowed my choice to a full keyboard with brown switches. I think I'd like full RGB customization as well.

I have $125 to Amazon, so am focusing my search there. Anyone have any suggestions? Can a be a bit more than the 125 if it's really worth the money. Thanks!

Is something like this a good keyboard?
https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1511835084&sr=8-25&keywords=mechanical+keyboard

I never liked the stiff feel of the x1 dpad, and the 360 controller dpad really sucks. I also tried the logitech controller and didn't like their triggers. I also did not like the fact that the F710 dropped its signal all the damn time. The steam controller looks interesting, but I didn't feel like messing around with that.

http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Wireless-Controller-Smartphone-Playstation-3/dp/B019H5II8Y

This is the one I came across. Despite being from one of those chinese knockoff companies the controller itself is built quite well. It has a nice dpad, and the buttons and triggers all feel good. I also like the feel of the PS4 controller. The battery life on it is also pretty damn good and I can recharge it with a usb cable.

I may try the steam controller at some point, but I got two of these right now, and im very happy with them.

I'm looking to buy one of the following keyboards, but not sure which one to get. All prices are Canadian dollars, so don't be alarmed if they seem high :)

1. $105.92 Ducky One Double Shot Blue LED Backlit - http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=34811142128
   
   
2. $120.99 Cooler Master MasterKeys L PBT - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072C516B9/
   
   
3. $119.99 MasterKeys Pro L Mechanical Keyboard with Intelligent White LED - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01ITE93OM/
   
   

• The Ducky One is Double Shot. Which is better in your opinion - PBT or Double Shot?
  
• Is Ducky One a better brand than CM Masterkeys? Answer may seem obvious but I don't want to assume anything.
  
• The PBT Masterkeys will arrive the fastest, but has no backlighting and costs more than the Ducky One - is PBT worth the $15 price increase over double shot?
  
• The 3rd option is a backlit Masterkeys Pro but no PBT and will take the longest to arrive.
  
  I missed out on buying a $164.99 Ducky Shine 6 PBT Double Shot Black Keycaps RGB LED - would that have been the best one to buy? Price higher than the others was the only limiting factor.
  http://www.ncix.com/detail/ducky-shine-6-cherry-mx-7b-141351.htm
  
  Just throwing these Keyboards into the mix as well, you'll probably immediately disregard them but included them just in case:
  
  

4. $109.99 Corsair Strafe Red LED - https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX58570
   
   
5. $99.95 Logitech G610 Orion Backlit - https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01CDYB8F6/
   

My suggestion is the Logitech G305 for $10 over your budget, but it's got the best wireless sensor on the market. It isn't gamerized by any means and you can add macros to the side buttons if that's what you want. I really like the scroll wheel as well, it's rubberized and textured with distinct steps that aren't too tactile.

For a cheaper wired version, the Logitech G203 is the same mouse only it's using the gold-standard wired sensor. It has RGB, but you can turn it off. Other than that, it has the exact same features and shape.

A friend of mine bought the CM Devastator, but that was like 3 years ago and I don't remember what the mouse felt like(if the scroll wheel was mushy in comparison), but either of these are a lot better.

Granted, I'm using a G Pro which is yet another of the same style, it's just a little older and more expensive than the G203.

I mentioned this already in another post, but the Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara Edition package is a very solid choice. Normally, the price is $469 on Amazon, but I saw it go for $299 during Black Friday and during the Christmas/holiday season. I picked it up when it was on sale, and for that price, its extremely well worth it. This setup is far superior to any of the Logitech wheels/pedals. My roommate has a Logitech G29, and that thing feels like a toy in every way compared to the T300. The T300 is much quiter, smoother feeling, and the pedals feel much more realistic (for this price range). Also just the diameter of the wheel alone makes a huge difference in the feel. It does not come with a separate shifter, but you can always add that in the future.

I have tried the G29 and the T300 side by side, and I can answer any questions you might have about them. Currently I'm using the T300 Alcantara package with a Fanatec 1.5 SQ shifter. The shifter adds ALOT to the experience, and it was totally worth the money IMO.

1. Gaming mice tend to be quite pricey if you get a branded one. Unless you're a pro (like super precise fps stuff) I highly recommend Perixx. Its literally half the price, mine's been working great for the past 4 years and its on amazon.
   https://www.amazon.com/Perixx-MX-2000-Programmable-Gaming-Laser/dp/B0083H4NG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1479459405&sr=8-1&keywords=Perrix
   
   
2. As for LED lighting, again HUE+ is quite expensive for the functionality. Go for https://www.amazon.com/Tingkam-RGB-Attached-Controller-Generation/dp/B01HXPPUR2/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479459584&sr=1-5&keywords=led+pc+lighting
   If you want something that just works.
   
   
3. I got myself a drone last year but ended up playing with it like 3-4 times. There's a very high chance that it'll just end up in storage
   
   
4. Personally I recommend a nice tech backpack or satchel. Checkout CaseCrown for tech orientated packs
   https://www.casecrown.com/product-category/bags/
   

I'm using a Retrolink N64 controller, which is honestly just an actual N64 controller rewired to USB. It works pretty flawlessly. I just bought a SNES USB controller today for a Raspberry Pi, but it seems to be a reproduction controller and doesn't feel as durable as an original. It plays just fine, though. I've found that a PS3 or Wii U Pro controller are great for everything, I just liked having a N64 controller for those games.

What about the CM Quickfire Rapid. If you don't mind buying second-hand, they go for $40-50 shipped on /r/mechmarket often enough. Cooler Master is definitely a well-recommended brand around here. Good mechanical keyboards (ex. Ducky, Leopold, Filco, topre) don't tend to go on sale all that often, so that's one thing. I'm not super elitist about quality but I feel like anything between $50-100 brand new is just an awkward price range. It's too expensive to be a "good deal" but not quite expensive enough to get you good quality.

For lesser recommended but still-better-than-Chinese-random we have this Rosewill and this Drevo.

I'm not super knowledgeable about cheap boards since I'm pretty picky about board quality but those should be some good starting points.

Did you try this with a different set of mouse & keyboard, and try to check drivers in device manager, if any caution triangle symbol ⚠️, right click on it and try to update drivers, if it says where to get drivers just say search automatically. After successfull updates restart PC and try with the old peripherals. If works great but If problem still persists then it might be one of the following :

1. Faulty drivers, Format OS.
   
   
2. problem with keyboard and mouse, replace them if they have warranty or buy Logitech everything.
   Best keyboard - https://www.logitechg.com/en-us/products/gaming-keyboards/g512-mechanical-gaming-keyboard.html#920-008722
   
   Take the linear keys version is the best.
   Best mouse -
   https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Advanced-Sensor-Competitive/dp/B01JPOLLTK
   
   Best mouse and they both are RGB.
   
   
3. Motherboard needs a CMOS reset and everything might work fine.
   
   
4. last ditch effort, replace motherboard.
   
   Let me know how it goes.

You can still use em with the FN layer.

I was also first sceptical about the 60% layout but after i build my own it works good. And also you pretty much only gonna use F5 and maybe F12 ( for BIOS or STEAM screenshots)

Out of all that you wrote i would go with the Magicforce with some nice Gateron Brown switches best bang for your buck.

Or the Drevo Gramr has F keys and for only 40€ good enough https://www.amazon.es/Drevo-84-Tenkeyless-mec%C3%A1nico-retroiluminado/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479331621&sr=8-1&keywords=Drevo+Gramr ( haven't found a portuguese amazon site) But it has Outemu switches not Gateron or MX but for that low of a price i think you can't make much wrong.

Well, not to sound rash or anything but, me personally, I'd send that hard drive back. 5400RPM is gonna lead to some pretty eh read/write speeds; about the same creeping-speeds as a console's hard drive. This is the same price range, 7200RPM, an extra terabyte of storage, and is incredibly quiet (avoid Barracudas; very noisy hard drives). I've got the 2TB version of the P300 and it's great. Very fast, very quiet.

And, I mean... There's about $160 you could've saved ^^^^That ^^^^would've ^^^^given ^^^^you ^^^^better ^^^^performance.

Your build is by no means bad.

It's great, and will last you many years to come. It just missed the mark on cost efficiency.

---

As far as keyboards go, I always recommend Cooler Master. Specifically their new MasterKeys Pro S. Very high quality feel, mechanical Cherry switches, RGB backlighting, standard bottom row keyswitches (easier to replace keycaps), TKL (tenkeyless; no numpad). For something more budget-friendly, the Redragon Kurama is actually pretty slick. Mechanical (Outemu; not as high quality as Cherry, but still good), TKL, doesn't feel too cheap, and it's tenkeyless.

Obviously the MasterKeys is gonna be a much more premium keyboard, but the Kurama is a nice little entry-level mechanical keyboard.

I tried it and it is really too big for me. If palm on my hand on the mouse, the hump is too high and it makes me feel really inconfortable (my arm muscle's are working hard to hand it, thats bad). While the ZA 12 was too small to palm perfectly (it also gave me a lot of pain, more than the za 11).

I tried ZA-11 and ZA-12 and they are not made for me. The SteelSerie Laser Sensei Raw (images of dimensions : https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/G/02/uk-videogames/2011/dp/B007N6HS3G/image4._V145389784_.jpg) stayed the better to play long time.

what i can say about the sensei raw is that it is a little too short (my two right figners can't be perfectly rested on the side when handing it hard), and that's their somehow something that make it not the best to wrist movements (although wrist movements are possible), I think because of it's size and shape.

I'll give it a try to the EC1A, who seems to be used by pro fps players. I don't know if it will fit as the hump is higher than the ZA11 but also it's a bit more further on the mouse.

If it's not ok, I guess i'll give a try to the FK1 or FK1+.

I hope I'll be able to find a good mouse and play again! I tried quickly the death adder chroma today, it seems good, althoug again it could be a little bit longer to be able ro make my finger rests perfectly on the side.

Is there any general consensus on the Drevo Gramr 84 (Outemu Brown Switches) as to how good it is? I hear it's "pretty good for it's price", but I'm not sure if it's the "best" Keyboard I can pick up for that price range. (The often-recommended Magicforce 68 feels just a little too small for me; I really would like a dedicated Function Row and Escape Key). I hear people saying different things about Outemu; some say it's good, some say that they think they're bad. This would be my first Mech Keyboard, so it's not like I've been using Cherries or Gaterons or whatever for a long time and can easily "tell" the difference between the switches.

Also, are there any TKL Mechanical Keyboards with Brown Switches that I should consider (or if any exist...) around the ~$40-50 price range (on Amazon, US)? Drevo Gramr is 75% which I think I can work with (might need to do a little bit of brain rewiring for a week or so when using), but I'd prefer a "standard" TKL layout with some space between the Number Row and Function Row; the Insert/Delete/Home/End/etc. buttons grouped together slightly away from the Keyboard, the Arrow keys by themselves, etc.

Finally--anyone know how often these things go on "sale"? Being a Steam user, it's always about the sales on games which happen often and are heavy discounts...I don't expect any heavy discounts on this Keyboard, but even small discounts are savings. Any wild guesses on if potentially this Keyboard could go on sale (even by like $5-10), or if it's probably just going to stick at $40?

It's this: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=4NCFNXYZ4ONU&keywords=t16000m&qid=1563283031&s=gateway&sprefix=T16%2Caps%2C239&sr=8-4

It's a very good starter system not to expensive but very well made. It was my first Hotas :)

But since Variolamajor wants to sell his warthog i recommend u talk to him first b/c the warthog is way better. If it's to expensive just write me a PM :)

Just go with Ramzinho suggestion as it's the best (you should try out some mice for yourself, see which one fits your hand and your grip better, only you can do that).

But as you asked for a rundown of mice, here's my experience:

A4Tech AK47

PROS

• Really cheap
  
• Solid
  
• ambidextrous
  
• Can select out of a few DPI settings
  
  CONS
  
  
• No additional buttons (thumb or otherwise) except for the DPI switch.
  
• Kinda flat
  
• Ugly design
  
  My first "gaming" mouse, I had no money left after building my computer so I went for this one. It's good for a starting mouse, but low end and the missing thumb buttons are a big turn off.
  
  Logitech G700
  
  PROS
  
  
• Logitech freeroll mousewheel
  
• A LOT OF BUTTONS
  
• Polling Rate and DPI settings
  
  CONS
  
  
• Heavy
  
• The charging cable is super hard to move and you are required to use it at times since the mouse battery is insanely ridicule. I mean it lasts only a few hours on a full charge...
  
• Battery is shit
  
• Mousewheel quality is shit. Broke 2 mice in a month.
  
• Kinda weird grip on the mouse, not really comfortable.
  
• Logitech gaming software
  
• Only for right handed people
  
  This mouse is huge, has a lot of features, a lot of buttons, and a lot of flaws. Not recommanded for fast paced gaming because of the short battery duration or heavy ass charging cable.
  
  Razer DeathAdder
  
  PROS
  
  
• Not really expensive in the US (really expensive everywhere else tho)
  
• Best form factor for a lot of people (subjective)
  
• Nice and big thumb buttons
  
• Nice and satisfactory click when pressing buttons
  
• Available for both right and left handed persons
  
• DPI and polling rate settings
  
• Really low activation point (<3mm) so you won't make huge weird movements if you're one of those that lift their mouse a lot.
  
• Can save profiles
  
  CONS
  
  
• Razer Quality (broke 3 over a total timespan of 2 years)
  
• Razer Gaming Software
  
  One of the best mice I used overall, I'll still be using one if they weren't so cheaply made and broke so much.
  
  Steelseries Sensei Raw Rubber
  
  PROS
  
  
• Ambidextrous
  
• Good form factor if you have big hands
  
• DPI and polling rate settings
  
• Low activation point
  
  CONS
  
  
• Issues with the mousewheel
  
  A good mouse overall, but kinda bland compared to others, as in not really providing good value for the money. Also has mousewheel issues, which is what made me switch to something else. The issue appeared after a good 7 or 8 months, but was really fucking with me after a while. Basically it would go randomly up when you scrolled down, and vice versa.
  
  Zowie FK2
  
  PROS
  
  
• NO DRIVER!!!
  
• Ambidextrous
  
• DPI and polling rate settings (you can't precisely set your DPI, but you have 4 settings to switch from a button)
  
• Really precise
  
• Really low activation point (almost on par with razer's deathadder on a razer goliathus mat)
  
• Really solid build
  
• discreet mouse if you're not into the usual gaming gear design
  
  CONS
  
  
• Not braided cable (my cat chewed the cable off of my first FK2 :()
  
• kinda expensive for the amount of goodies it carries
  
• The DPI button is located below the mouse, so it's not practical if you like to switch on the fly during gameplay.
  
  The mouse I'm currently using. It comes close second to Razer in terms of how comfortable it is for me. It's light years ahead in terms of quality. As you probably remarked, I'm not really taking care of my mice (thanks CS), but this one is indestructible. No driver bullshit, but that means no precise DPI settings (you've got 4: 400, 800, 1600 and 3200), and no profiles but that really isn't an issue. Large Teflon pads, it glides really nicely on my goliathus control mat, almost as well as the deathadder. Dunno what else to say, apart that I'm currently happy with it even though I long for the day someone makes a solid deathadder. I'm even using the one my cat chewed the cable off of at work, with a bit of tape it's working fine as long as I don't move the cable too much.
  
  edit: who puts an "s" at the end of mice?

I personally use a razer deathadder chroma but IMO its personal preference (razer fanboy). My good friend uses this mouse and thinks its really good. this is one of the best and lightest mouse on the market. Sadly its almost always sold out so going for that mouse could take a few months. Hope this helped.

Item linky!

So, at a Christmas party for my then-girlfriend's Hospice agency, it was one of those parties where everyone brings a gift, then names are drawn out of a hat. You can then either select a new gift or take someone's old gift, and if your gift is taken, you get to choose again immediately. Not spiteful at all...

...except another nurse/nurse aid's boyfriend brought a completely wrapped brick of coal as a gag gift. Some folks found it amusing, others did not, but whatever. The game began. Well, a very, very elderly worker's turn came up, and she inadvertently picked up the coal block. She was visibly saddened, and didn't think it was all that funny, but them's the breaks. I distinctly remember hearing the boyfriend laughing his ass off.

I then decided to ruin his fun.

When my turn came up, I strolled right over to the woman. "I could really use that coal, ma'am. Hand it over."

You'd think I offered to pay for her childrens' bills and her own at the same time. Tears in her eyes, she gave me the block of coal and gave me a huge hug. Tons of "aww" sounds came from everyone except the boyfriend, and as the elderly lady went to pick her own gift, I strolled back to my girlfriend, taking a route past the boyfriend.

"Take that, asshole."

Got back to my girlfriend, big kiss received, and turned to see what the elderly lady picked out. It was from the CEO.

$500 gift card to Walmart. No one took it from her.

I'm looking for a stick to play UMvC3 and SFV on PC. This mayflash stick is pretty cheap and is the amazon recommended one, but my buddies who play the games recommend this hori one. I've used the xbox/pc version of the stick that my buds recommend and I really like it, but I want to know if it's worth it. Any suggestions?

Das keyboards get some flak for being overpriced, but at $60 this is a pretty good deal. Now that they have apparently sold out, see below for some alternatives.

EDIT: if you search for Das on /r/mechanicalkeyboards you'll find lots of people talking about how Das keyboards have declined in quality recently and some controversy about the software for one of their new models (not this KB) being Windows only. The keycaps Das uses are also said to be low quality. These issues aside, I personally think this is a good deal. If you are in the market for a full size mechanical keyboard, it's hard to find a better keyboard for the price. Some alternatives that are better but more expensive:

• $80: iKBC CD108 w/ MX Clear Switches
  
• $90 for full-size, $80 for tenkeyless: Cooler Master MasterKeys S
  
• $40, but 60% layout not full-sized: Magicforce68
  
  EDIT 2: as /u/SolixTanaka pointed out below, the Magicforce keyboards have questionable quality control. It's probably not fair to say they are better than Das keyboards. Some users love them and have no problems, others find their board crapping out after a few months (or sooner). Buyer beware. I like them because they are a cheap way to try out a 60% layout if that's something that interests you but you're unsure if you'll like it.

This kept getting deleted:

I have 4 reliable ones in mind atm, but I'm really not sure which would best suit me.

Logitech G-Pro

Logitech G-403
 

 

Zowie FK1 or FK2

If any mice guru can help me out, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!!

Well for $800. I'd recommend upgrading the components of your computer first, then spending a ton on a keyboard (Since it won't affect performance). Here's a super high-quality massdrop custom keyboard for $180, but here's a RedDragon K552 keyboard for $45. As you see, there are many inexpensive options, but also expensive options. I'd still go over and head to /r/MechanicalKeyboards and ask for recommendations and see what they can offer you (as im not a specialist on this), I wish you the best of luck!

[MassDrop]

[RedDragon]

Edit: Formatting

If you're happy with ANSI layout and want a budget board, then any of the clone boards like the Qisan will be fine. Qisan also make the Magicforce which is a fantastic budget board owned by a lot of users here.

This is potentially an even better option, since it appears to have no non-standard keys (excluding right shift, which is easily replaceable) and is cheaper.

If you are looking for ISO Layout and don't mind spending, check out the Winkeyless B.Mini which can be built and customised to your liking :)

> ... having a structure in my living room that looks like half a go kart is contrary to the freedom that VR offers

That's not the purpose of VR though: The purpose of VR is to simulate an experience as accurately as possible. So, for example:

• If you were playing a VR game that simulated being in an empty room, then playing it in a real-life empty room would be ideal.
  
• If you were playing a VR game that simulated being in a car, then playing it in a cockpit would be idea.
  
  So the "ideal" room for VR depends entirely on the type of game you're playing it. Heck, if you were playing a VR game that simulated swimming, then a room with a swimming pool would be ideal.
  
  Anyway, the cheapest possible PS4 wheel you can get that is worth owning is the Thrustmaster T150:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B014US02ZA/
  

In general, Das, for some reason or another, tend to be a little high-priced for the quality of the board. They're not bad, but you can find better for simliar pricing.

That particular Das you linked to uses some off-brand switch instead of Cherry or Gateron (Cherry is the original that they all copy, Gateron makes a well respected and popular clone).

For example, this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is cheaper, uses Cherry switches and has programmable white backlighting. And this Cooler Master Masterkeys L is only a little more expensive, uses Cherry switches and has programmable RGB lighting.

And Form Factor (from your other post) describes the physical size and layout of a keyboard. Full/100% is your standard keyboard. TKL is the next step smaller, and cuts off the numberpad. 60% is when you take a TKL and chop off the Arrow/Navigation keys and the F1-12 row, leaving just the alphanumeric characters and the surrounding modifiers.

Those are about the three most common form factors, but there are others as well (40% for those looking for something really portable and compact. 65% for those who want a 60% but can't live without the arrow keys.).

ah.

Good for you for taking that time and doing the research. Amazon has it for $400, as does everyone else. Best Buy had it for about $25 cheaper a week or so ago (sorry) I pay for Amazon Prime and their process and return policy are great, so that's why i go there.

Get yourself hdmi and usb extension cables, you will ABSOLUTELY want these. (I really want it to be wireless but....)

Have a great time, I know you will

I believe it is, but it is not as strong as say the T300. The other negative is you can't replace the wheel with other thrustmaster wheels.

The T300 offers 1080 degrees of rotation and the TX offers 900. If 900 degrees is enough for you, you could try this maybe?

You could upgrade the wheel if you want in the future or if you want a better wheel to start you could go with this.

I'd personally go with the first option since you get the shifter and better pedal set. There are plenty of options to go with though. I see a lot of people suggest fanatec pedals. I have the T3PA pedals and they work great for me. Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions.

Alright tomorrow is the first time I'll really be diving in. I've had the game for a long time now but could not get used to the controls with keyboard and mouse At least not to an extent I felt was fun. But all you seem to really love the game so took some of my cash back money and bought.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2PE8CZ

So any advice for getting started with the game or even the controls would be appreciated.

It's more about what's best for you, what style of mouse you like, how large your hand is, do you want wired/wireless, etc. I love my Logitech G Pro and it's right on the edge of your $50 budget. The G203 has a similar shape for less than half the price, but it doesn't have a braided cable and the DPI doesn't go as high. I liked the braided cable for my mouse bungee (it keeps it nice and snug) plus it looks so nice (and now I can easily identify the mouse in the back of the PC when I go to move it to my server.)

Hey all,
I've been looking into buying an Oculus VR setup for the PC I built a few months ago. Does anyone know if they ever go on sale? The bundle I'm looking at is $399.99. Oculus Rift I know it's best if you buy an additional sensor, which I plan on doing as well. I'm still looking around to see if I can find a better deal.

Thanks guys (and gals); I appreciate any assistance you send my way. Cheers.

>-Does the throttle connect to one of the joysticks? And does it require its own USB port? So 3 total for the two sticks and throttle. Or does it piggy back off one of the joysticks?

The sticks and the throttle each have their own USB ports. If you get the Thrustmaster TFRP Pedals you can use the included rj12 cable to plug it directly into the Throttle to save 1 usb port, or you can use a USB cable if you have enough ports, or don't have the Throttle to plug it into.

Again, you'd want to do some research before choosing a pedal set as I know it's not as clear cut as the discussion of sticks and throttles in the budget arena.

>-if I did not get the throttle, the sticks each have a little slider throttle on them right? I think I saw the little slider in the middle on the photos. And that can be used as the throttle?

Yes, the sticks have a small slider on them which is handy and is enough to get the job done while you decide how much you would enjoy owning a throttle or not.

I started with the two sticks and picked up the throttle when it was released. I'm glad I own both dual sticks and the throttle as I enjoy both and having a throttle allows me to enjoy other flight sims/games with flying things as well (DCS, War thunder, ARMA, Etc.. Etc..)

Edit: Here is the pack with Stick+Throttle+Pedals: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ

I'm looking for a tenkeyless Cherry MX Brown keyboard, ideally with at least white/blue if not RGB back light. I'd also be happy with a similar switch like Red but still with a white/blue or RGB backlight.

I've found this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MRGQ6B2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2R1ECRASRXP6B&coliid=I3P854KGVKHOIF&psc=1

but this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2R1ECRASRXP6B&coliid=IHZLMX6QT77CB&th=1

Has also caught my eye. The Corsair Vengeance K65 seems almost perfect without the backlight or led component which may be ok. Any recommendations?

Edit: I bough the Corsair Vengeance K65 short as a halfway point to the CM Masterkey Pro S. It is sweet.

If those are a bit too expensive and you don't wanna spend much, I'd look into budget RGB boards
Redragon maybe? I personally own a lot of boards and my K552 is my go to.
Here's the RGB model: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K552-RGB-Mechanical-Keyboard-Construction/dp/B019O9BLVY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=redragon+rgb&qid=1566443725&s=gateway&sr=8-3


You're not going to find a board that's not Corsair/Razer that's compatible with their software as the software is chip specific from the manufacturer.


My only tip though is simply not to tie yourself down to a certain brand unless you're going for a certain style, look, feel, etc...
If you're looking for these brands other options would be.
Corsair K68: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit-Resistant/dp/B079H7N61M?th=1

Razer BlackWidow TE Chroma v2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744NVPJ8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0744NVPJ8&pd_rd_w=q8uoE&pf_rd_p=45a72588-80f7-4414-9851-786f6c16d42b&pd_rd_wg=oZTEt&pf_rd_r=EKDCKH87CWANFM9QFTHX&pd_rd_r=0c5fe876-fd28-48b6-b925-77f1bee46ff8&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFEMFBVQTRQS1dOWDkmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAxOTIwNjNTN1lCM1FFTEZHQzEmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDU4Mzc1NDFRV1pYTE40Q0RXWFAmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl


Hope I've been of some help, best of luck.

Im currently thinking about buying my first mech board, something around $50. I've only tried greens and browns before and really liked them. The keyboards I was looking at are the [Drevo 84] (https://www.amazon.com/Drevo-84-Key-Tenkeyless-Mechanical/dp/B01H6DHITE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480668408&sr=8-1&keywords=drevo), Qisan 68 , [Corsair k65] (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Compact-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00DOWCQ0I/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480667218&sr=8-8&keywords=mechanical+keyboard) , [Corsair k70 refurb] (http://www.corsair.com/en-us/corsair-gaming-k70-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-cherry-mx-brown-ch-9000516-na-refurbished), and the [Ajazz ak33] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ajazz-Geek-AK33-Backlit-USB-Wired-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-for-PC-Laptop-/121991387736?var=&hash=item1c6740da58:m:m8UdK8NaQRLhr0Zm2pw3NJA). I dont mind not having the numpad, but I'm not sure which of these boards is the best. Also the ak33 seems really appealing for the price but I'm not sure how loud the switches will be in comparison to browns. Any help will be appreciated!

I've been looking at low-profile compact keyboard options recently, and to my surprise it's proving trickier than expected, so I'm asking for suggestions

Criteria are as following:

• Low-profile and generally thin
  
• Doesn't necessarily have to be mechanical but is to be used for a lot of typing
  
• Function key row
  
• US-style layout (wide LShift, Horizontal Enter key)
  
• Normal-sized arrow keys (not Apple-style half-height)
  
• Either normal TKL or 84-key - needs Home, End, Delete keys
  
• Can have or not have backlight^((so long as it's not always-on and shining like a thousand suns))
  
• Can be wired or wireless
  
• <=$150; shipping from US
  
  Am currently using a Microsoft Sculpt Ergonomic Desktop keyboard. The keys feel really nice, and the layout is good, but so far the mid-keyboard gap isn't quite clicking with me (I've pressed Y with my left hand for at least 10 years now, and here it's on the right side) and their other keyboards with same type of keys are all full-sized.
  
  I have a Logitech K380 lying around, and it's alright (no high standards, mostly used with mobile devices), but not a fan of squished arrow keys.
  
  Current considerations:
  
  
• Sharkoon Purewriter TKL
  
• HAVIT HV-KB390L
  
• Thinkpad Compact Keyboard
  
  Update: Settled on HAVIT. Sharkoon seems OK too but only ships from Germany (?) and is a little thicker; Thinkpad is generally highly regarded but the layout is a bit oddish (Fn is left-most key) and my life can do without the perspectives of cleaning any more laptop-esque (inset) keyboards.

A few years ago I upgraded to the Logitech G710+ Mechanical Gaming Keyboard with Tactile High-Speed Keys and the SteelSeries Sensei Laser Gaming Mouse in hopes of getting better. Played a bunch of Battlefield 4 on it, was ok. But when I got BF4 on sale for the Xbox later... man it was seriously night and day how much better I was with a controller.

Funny thing is, I'm really good at World of Warcraft PvP with his keyboard mouse set up. But when you think about it, you have sticky target. You don't aim, all you have to do is move around. That helped me figure out what I can't get down in FPS, the combination of moving AND aiming!

I'm a straight up weirdo! Haha.

I've been playing a lot more Android games now that I've upgraded to a Pixel 2 XL. I love this phone. I have very big hands (I'm 6'7"... generally most things are too small for me) and even when I customise the button layout for, say, My Boy! or My Old Boy! I still find my hands getting cramped after a while.

I have been looking at controllers that allow phones to clip on, and there's quite a few on Amazon Canada that look good. I am leaning towards the GameSir G3s with included bracket, GameSir T1s (slightly more expensive for some reason?) or the "Mad Giga". I also was considering the Bonusis STK7003 though it's more expensive and looks like it might be flimsier. Those are all generally within my budget -- $30-45ish.

When I used my Vita a lot, I had to buy a handgrip attachment for it, and even then I would still get hand cramps. It's very difficult to tell from the pictures which of these is the largest. As reference, I really like the size of the Steam Controller, which I've used a lot, and PS3 controllers are good for decent lengths of time as well (though I do eventually cramp up with those as well).

In any case, any recommendations or information about which of these controller types are good for large hands would be greatly appreciated! I could potentially just buy a controller-grip shaped case, but I think I'd prefer to actually have a full size controller.

Do you definitely need a numpad..? If not, I would encourage you to wait a bit for this new simplistic Masterkeys from Coolermaster, as it will be definitely worth it's money. Multiple switches to pick from, great build quality and great keycaps. Also standard layout that you can customize later if you want to, macros and ability to change into Dvorake/Colemak on a firmware level.

Newish to mechanical keyboards and have been doing my research. I can't decide which keyboard to choose and was hoping you could help me decide.

• MK Disco TKL White Keycap Edition (KBT Brown) $119 (MechanicalKeyboards.com)
  
  
• Ducky One TKL Blue LED (Brown Cherry MX) $99 (MechanicalKeyboards.com)
  
  
• MasterKeys Pro L w/ White LED (Cherry MX Brown ) $109.99 (Amazon)
  
  I was considering the Masterkeys Pro S over the Pro L but the brown switch version is currently priced at ~$156 over the blue switch version at $99. I'm guessing it's really popular so the price keeps going up due to Amazons algorithm. The RGB version of the Pro L with Brown switches is ~$136 but I'm not sure I want to pay $26 for some pretty lights. The RGB Ducky one is at $140 but then I'm paying $40 over the blue version just for some fancy colors. I was thinking if I wan't pretty lights the MK Disco seems to be the best value.
  
  I think I'm leaning towards the disco. Also, if there's anything I'm missing or you have a suggestion other than these, let me know.

An overlooked part of the equation is a mouse pad. The joke about tryhards buying giant mousepads is not unfounded. Lower sensitivity is a good idea in most games and with a small mouse pad you'll find yourself running out of room too often. Buy a giant Steel Series QCK mousepad IMO.

Other than that buy something with the tried and true MX switches. Razer has gone to their own proprietary switch and there's nothing to suggest they're better and everything to suggest it was a cost cutting measure. Reds or browns are going to be best for FPS games IMO. Tenkeyless will allow you to better accommodate the giant mouse pad and not have your left arm/hand in an uncomfortable spot.

Mice are much more subjective. Figure out how you grip the mouse (palm/claw/fingertip) and start looking based off that. Laser vs. optical is a contested topic and in general you probably won't find a huge difference. The Logitech G Pro (https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Gaming-Advanced-Sensor-Competitive/dp/B01JPOLLTK) is generally regarded as having a top tier sensor and is reasonably priced. That's what I would buy if I had to buy a new mouse today.

Hi! If you have an old PS3 controller, that could work for ya, might be buggy at times tho.

I'm assuming you want it to be wireless. I'm also assuming you have Prime or access to a Prime account:

cheap/simple:
https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Controller-BEBONCOOL-Wireless-Emulator/dp/B01N8WWOE5/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1501595196&sr=1-3&keywords=bluetooth+controller

bit nicer:
https://www.amazon.com/GameSir-Bluetooth-Wireless-Controller-Android-Smartphone/dp/B019H5II8Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1501595196&sr=1-5&keywords=bluetooth+controller

controller that will ALSO work with your phone and has a mount for it:
https://www.amazon.com/BEBONCOOL-Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Emulator/dp/B0171JGYF2/ref=sr_1_6?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1501595196&sr=1-6&keywords=bluetooth+controller

8bitdo, some of the nicest out there. check out their other ones too, they have ones that look like stock NES (with extra buttons) and stock SNES controllers:
https://www.amazon.com/NES30-Pro-Bluetooth-Controller-Dynamic/dp/B01LW7JJPJ/ref=sr_1_7?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1501595196&sr=1-7&keywords=bluetooth+controller

Good Luck!

Still using a cheap Gear Head wireless keyboard, and it's decent enough for now. I'd like to replace it with a good mechanical eventually, but I'd rather buy games than save for it apparently. The mouse that came with the keyboard was absolute dogshit, so I replaced it with a Perixx-MX-2000B. I also got a nice rigid mouse pad for it too. The response is amazing. And to think that I used to have a dirty peasant problem using controllers all the time to game. That mouse helped me correct this issue.

I recently got a new mouse for £24. When I was looking at what to get, I decided to put my hatred for Razer aside for a moment. The DeathAdder seemed like the best for me, and I noted down its price of ~£40. It was only later that I found the Perixx mouse. The customisation in the software is very impressive, and the settings are saved to the actual mouse rather than the computer. You can uninstall the mouse's software even, if you like. I feel like I've gotten something worth three times more than the Razer mouse, and it was only 60% of the cost.

My friend has one of their headsets, and although it is alright (low volume, iffy sound, great mic) it cost him £60. I'm sure even the £24 Plantronics headsets on Amazon are as good.

As for the keyboards, you'll be lectured dare you show one on /r/MechanicalKeyboards. They use knock-off switches which they (naturally) claim are better, but I'll take Cherry's switches over their's any day.

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC


$60, Nice sturdy aluminum frame, brown switch, full size, and feels fantastic.

rgb can be turned off and adjusted via software. use it every day and love it. they're a pretty popular entry level mechanical keyboard that's extremely hard to beat because at $60 they sell every switch type and they feel fantastic. Hell they had a compact red switch keyboard for $30. if you want others just head to amazon and Seach "Redragon red switch" or whatever else

Amazon. It was just a normal sale. Now's a good time to buy- it's $30.

It's really great if you want to do Morroblivion or something and you don't have Morrowind and the expansions. The packaging is also fantastic. I was really satisfied with it.

G402 is currently on sale for £28.99

Havent used the personally 402 but the 502 served me for a few years and its a decent mouse and the 402 is almost exactly the same but it doesnt have a free scrolling mouse wheel.

Ajazz 75% mechanical keyboard for £23.99

I have an ajazz ak33 and have been using it for the last 3(?) years its very reliable and the knock off blue switches that it uses are as good as those on my old corsair keyboard.

Check out rocketjumpninja for mouse reviews though as you might want a smaller mouse (like the g203 which is similarly priced) that suites your hand size

also check out r/buildapcsales for current sales on PC hardware people will link peripherals as well and you might snag a nice deal.

Honestly, if this is your first stick, you aren't sure if you'll like it yet. Don't spend a shit ton of money. I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019MFPLC0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517491228&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mayflash+f500
People say that you need a controller plugged in all the time if you play on console but because tekken has legacy support I've never had to do that. Nor have I had to on SFV or dragon ball fighterz. Once I realized I wanted it to definitely use a fighting stick I swapped out the buttons and stick for qanba parts that work just fine. In fact its amazing and overall I spent as much as a normal qanba.

HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2GDXMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u6ZkDb2BY0EZ1

I can third this is great for the quest. Super easy to install: https://youtu.be/RmnPnS4NOYo

You'll need a ring of some sort and about 3 strips of Velcro. Makes audio sooo nice! 😃

This now gives you a good excuse to do the mod!

I was talking about the Vive Deluxe strap. I remember it being more comfortable then the original Vive strap and easier to tighten as it was just a knob. This was great when many people were trying it. Just need to figure out a good way to attach it.

Ok then your gonna love to have one, don’t worry I have been on console the majority of my life so I feel you. I am gonna send you a link of my mechanical keyboard, it honestly the best cheapest mechanical keyboard with cherry mx blue switches, which are really good. The only con/issue is the fact that the keyboard makes a lot of sound when typing or playing. So there the link: Reddragon kumara rgb

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-Rollover/dp/B0722GG88M You will not be able to swap caps, but that will be the closest to scissor switches.

​

Rubber domes, and even scissor switches are a type of rubber dome, have a tactile feeling at the start of your press. Browns are probably closer in feel, but have a lot more travel than any scissor switch. You can buy a Coolermaster Masterkeys S PBT within budget off Amazon, then buy some nice caps, but the feel will be different from a laptop keyboard. Many of us get a second keyboard just to use with our laptops just so we do not have to use the laptop keyboard. An Anne Pro 2 is a pretty good wireless model.

Yep, Rift + Touch is $399. Even the Vive (also includes controllers) is only $499 nowadays :) Leap Motion is really promising, but the field of view on their current gen sensor is pretty limiting. Really interesting to play with, but probably not that useful if you're making VR games yet. Also, I don't think their SDK works with Android, in case you're thinking of sticking it on one of the standalone headsets.

So the two big ones are HTC Vive and Oculus Rift, those are the only two consumer VR headsets that really shine right now. Rift is having a crazy summer sale right now, $400 on Amazon, which gets you the headset, camera sensors, and hand controllers.

Personally, I have the HTC Vive due to some issues I have with Oculus's business platform. Namely, they're owned by Facebook and are trying to pull a console-esque exclusive games deal.

But, personal qualms aside, I can't really recommend the Vive for $800 over the Rift for $400. Especially if you're playing seat games like flight simulators, that's the much much better option right now.

I'm super into VR so any questions feel free to ask away.

Like others mentioned, it doesn’t necessarily matter. A lot of it is personal preference.

I would generally recommend a mechanical keyboard of some kind over a membrane- they tend to be a lot more accurate in their actuations. As far as specifics go, there’s a number of amazing options, including building your own...

That being said, my personal favorite keyboard, by far, is Havit Low Profile board- it’s not as customizable as a Cherry style switch, but it’s the most accurate, consistent, and easy to use keyboard I’ve ever touched. It’s also half the price of a Ducky or similar style board (which are excellent boards as well, at least most of them.) The actuation point is incredibly small, and I’ve never once had an issue with ghosting, no matter how quickly I’m pressing.

HAVIT Mech Keyboard](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722GG88M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4XTODbGTV8HN0)

Ok, here is the run-down of what I use.

1. NES and SNES emulator: Higan
   
   
2. NES USB Controller
   
   
3. SNES USB Controller
   
   
4. Where I get my ROMs (the games): http://coolrom.com/
   
   There are many different emulators you can use to play NES and SNES game ROMs. If you have trouble with the one I suggested, just do a google search and find a different one to try. Also, those are the exact controllers I use and they both work great and feel pretty authentic. However, you can get a converter kit to usb for either original system controller.
   
   Have fun!

Water Bottle

My Swim Suit (I tried to get one without any models in the picture)

beach towel

Floatie

Hat

Bag

My Fav Book

[Movie](https://www.amazon.ca/Baywatch-Blu-ray-DVD-Digital-HD/dp/B072LMWGCZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527757612&sr=8-1&keywords=baywatch (I didnt know if shows were allowed or i would have chose the show)

Treat machine

Outdoor Decor

DAD (This would be for the step dad. He tried one out at the mall a year or so back and loved it, he always asks me about it and how we can get it. hes a hard worker, hes a firefighter and he runs his own construction buisness on the side. One day it would be nice to buy him a crazy good computer and an oculus and let him have some fun.)

Murica

Thunder buddy

Games

CD

I always forget this

Pineapple does not belong on pizza imo

Gotta plant some Begonias The Girlfriend loves them!

Multiple games!

SHARK WEEK

>How do you know which one to get


The keyboard, switchtype and keycaps all come down to personal preference.
I'd recommend you research the most common MX switch types, and possibly get a switch tester to get a general feel for the individual switches before settling on a board.


>do you have to build the keyboard piece by piece?


Short answer, no.

Longer answer, a lot of keyboard enthusiasts choose to build their own keyboards with individually sourced high quality and sometimes sought after and rare parts, in order to build a keyboard to their exact preference. As a first time buyer, buying a stock board from a vendor or shop should do you just fine.


The Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L seems to fit your specifications perfectly, and with the Cherry MX Brown version sitting at $89 on Amazon right now, you're getting quite a good deal.

The Logitech G Pro Wired is, well, wired. It is based off the same design as the G305, which is the wireless version.

The Logitech G Pro also comes with the latest HERO sensor of 16k DPI. This model is called theLogitech G Pro HERO.

The Logitech G Pro Wireless is a special esports gaming mouse that is wireless and uses the same HERO sensor. However, it has a completely different shape.

TL;DR: It is wired.

Never heard of tecware, but ducky and vortex make great keyboards.

Also you should stop thinking of things as being good for gaming, that's all marketing. Getting a mechanical keyboard with specific switches isn't going to make you any better at playing games. Just try and research what you might like as far as personal preference. Anyone saying "blues are for typing, reds are for gaming" is just buying into marketing.

My biggest recommendation for stock mechanical keyboards would be Coolermaster Masterkeys series. Like this keyboard.

It's got PBT keycaps that are a denser kind of plastic and the lettering will never wear off. There's no shinethrough though if that matters to you.

Let me grab a link....

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_13

This is a great starter pack with solid controllers for all three bits. I had this to start and was very, very pleased.

I eventually replaced the stick with a Warthog, which I also love. I will next replace the throttle with the Warthog throttle. After I get out of ship debt on my credit card ;)

I can recommend my setup:
Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari Alcantara Integral Edition

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015KJ0SES/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487172453&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+t+300

Get a extra shifter like the TH8A

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487172565&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster&dpPl=1&dpID=41AEMeEQwUL&ref=plSrch

SimRig GT Omega Pro RS9

http://usa.gtomegaracing.com/racing-simulator-cockpits/pro-racing-simulator-cockpit/gt-omega-pro-racing-simulator-basic-rs9-seat-canada

Total cost: 1070$

Of course you could get even better options on the market. But IMO it is the best compromise between cost, reliability and quality.

Thanks! I spend most days here, so I strive to make it a place I enjoy.

Desk is from World Market. It looks like they have a 40% off deal going on right now!

Ultrawide is the Dell Alienware AW3418DW.

Top monitor is a dell 4k 27" I bought a few years ago. Great color reproduction.

Monitor stand || Micca MB42X speakers || Keyboard || Mouse || Lucky cat ;)

Hello guys looking for reference which is better from these 2 keyboards or if I should opt for another option. I took the redragon as an option because someone told me that its cheaper than the glorious and offers the same.

Redragon k556 devarajas


Glorious Gaming Mechanical Keyboard


Thanks

>The wireless connection only worked for up to 1.5 metres or so

Yeah, the 2.4 GHz band is typically very polluted these days. I get the same limitation from my Logitech Unifying Receiver. In my home theater I ended up running an active USB extension cable closer to my seats and attaching a USB hub back there. My HID dongles are plugged in across the room from my actual PC. I cheated. :)

​

>One LED (one of the F-functions) didn't display red and there didn't correctly display the RGB colours.

Hey, I think I saw your Amazon review. You're famous! Mine doesn't suffer this issue. But the Sink87G is dirt cheap in the mech keyboard world. I guess one is more likely to encounter a lemon in the sub $100 price range, as you and I both have experienced.

​

Edit: I just received my replacement Sink87G. As far as I can tell, it's free of defects this time. Still needs a little break-in, but I see no non-working LEDs, and all the keys work as intended.

​

>I didn't find it that much better to type/game on than a 'normal' keyboard.

This hobby is definitely a solution to a first world problem. I'm old enough to remember when buckling spring keyboards were common. First time I used a membrane keyboard in a computer lab, my first impression was "wtf was done to this poor keyboard?" I switched computers and was horrified to find they were all that spongy and obstinate. Of course, I've used some truly horrible keyboards in my time -- the kind where, if you saw them, you'd wonder if the girl whose water broke at that workstation made it to the hospital in time. Using something so horrible really makes one appreciate the finer things.

If you grew up with membranes, then you probably consider it normal punching the keys until they bottom out. That's completely understandable. And modern membranes have improved, some incorporating a tactile snap reminiscent of what you probably felt with your Outemu Browns. I'm not surprised you didn't find the experience a profound improvement.

Of course among mech keyboard fans, there are many who do not like brown switches, but instead prefer linear reds or clicky blues, stiffer linear blacks, vintage Alps, or Filco buckling springs. I bet if you got a keyboard with red switches and practiced for a day or two typing without bottoming out, you might come to appreciate the speed benefit over your Microsoft keyboard.

Hey, I wonder if you'd like low profile switches, something like the Havit HV-KB395L (low profile blues) or this Magic Refiner MK10 (low profile reds)? They've got less travel than typical mechs, and may feel more familiar while still an improvement over your Microsoft keyboard.

I've been quite happy with my Redragon K556. They're not true Cherry MX switches, but typing still feels good. General construction feels good. And the RGB is programmable so you can tone it down if you don't want a crazy disco party. It's $60 USD, but presumably a little cheaper across the pond.

Get one of these, then get a few of these, put a SNES emulator on this bad boy along with your favorite games, and you have a modern-day SNES.

I know it's the same as inserting a cartridge into the console, but as quality as emulation as nowadays (especially for 32-bit consoles and older), you won't be able to tell the difference.

Edit: I wanted to add that if you don't mind using a controller layout that isn't identical to the SNES layout, you can use a Nintendo DS and PSP models to play SNES games on the go. Alternatively, if you have an old console, you can softmod them. I did that with my Wii, but if you really want a powerhouse emulation machine, an original Xbox is the way to go. If you have any questions man let me know, I've done my fair sure of emulating so I can give you a few pointers if needed.

There is no cheap way to do this, you are looking at about $300-$400. It's a great idea though, I have an old NES that just crapped out on me about a month ago, I may try this too.

I did find this instructable, that should give you a good starting point. Amazon has USB SNES controllers and NES controllers.

After you built the hardware I would suggest loading up some sort of Linux distro, if you are new to linux I would suggest Ubuntu. The emulator software is easy to install with that as well, FCEUltra for NES only, or bsnes for NES, SNES, and GameBoy, GBC and GBA. MAME will work for arcade games.

But if you want a truly portable emulator get a Dingoo.

Yup it's available on Steam! I'm actually on PC myself.

If you're interested, this is the stick I bought.

There's an infographic that puts the previous version of this stick in shit tier, so don't get confused. This new one is supposed to be great for newbies since it doesn't break the bank, and it can be modded with Sanwa parts easily.

I don't have any experience with fighting sticks, but it feels great to me. If I do my inputs purposefully, it all registers the way I expect so that's probably a good sign.

I haven't bought the game yet but it looks really cool, I hope to be able to use these peripherals when I buy it. Thanks for working toward a quick bug fix

​

I have a Thrustmaster HOTAS

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T16000M-FCS-Flight-Pack/dp/B01N2PE8CZ/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1549048613&sr=1-1&keywords=thrustmaster

​

And a Gladiator flight stick

https://www.amazon.com/Gladiator-Joystick-Flight-Simulator-Controller-Stick/dp/B01G6GT49O/ref=sr_1_16?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1549048659&sr=1-16&keywords=flight+stick

There are new low-profile switches that came out recently from Cherry and Kailh, and they sound like what you want. There isn't a lot of board selection yet though. If you can tolerate the noise of blue switches, I think you'd like this one for $50:

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-HV-KB390L/dp/B0722GG88M/

I'm using a Noppoo Choc Mini with 35g Gateron Clears, and that sounds like another option. Super light switches (the lightest you can buy), no scratchiness at all, but the keycaps are a bit tall compared to chiclets. It's about $60, I tried finding a link for that one but it looks like Newegg is out of stock now.

By the way, there are lots of people who feel similarly about chiclets. I type fast (~130wpm) and play Starcraft 2 competitively, and haven't found anything that works as well for me as an old ThinkPad membrane keyboard, despite a tour of mech keyboards. Am hoping these low profile switches will work for me, but blues are too noisy.

Sticks like this or this are definitely "not good enough". If you read the associated reviews and they speak positively it is almost always in context of "budget" and "easily modded".

If you've never played on generic parts vs. good ones you'd be surprised how big the difference is. It isn't just some weird snake oil elitism.

I hope to spend this weekend with my partner. He only has time to see me on Saturdays and Sundays, and I miss him all the time, so I spend all week looking forward to the weekend. I love the guy like crazy. 1.21 Gigawatts crazy.

In the unlikely event that I actually win one of these contests, I'd finally like to upgrade my mouse.

Thanks for the contest.

As a fellow lefty, I highly recommend the SteelSeries Sensei. It has additional buttons on the left and right of the mouse and has a symmetrical design that appeases both types of hands. I've used mine for close to two years and have loved, and my girlfriend has owned hers for half a year and loves hers as well.

My vote is for getting the original hardware, then an emu PC, and lastly a clone system.

There are some pretty cool USB controllers out there, like this one:

SNES Retro USB Super Nintendo Controller by Tomee
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034ZOAO0/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_sEcPub02TG5DP

You and I are alike, here's my mouse: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N6HS3G?keywords=steelseries%20sensei&qid=1453182887&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I regret getting the rubberized black because it'll show any kind of perspiration from my hand, but I love the design. Customizable DPI in increments of 90 up to 5670, you can turn off the leds, has a dpi switch and only 4 extra customizable buttons. The software that steelseries makes for it is pretty nice too. You don't need to run it at boot and I'd avoid running it often because it's always trying to update..

In this photo, you will see (bottom-up/left-right):

1. Ikea: LINNMON / ALEX Table, white/gray -
   https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/S89047259/; for providing a surface for most of the following listed after this.
   
   
2. Edifier W855BT Bluetooth Headphones - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4TZEEB/; for my bus rides to and from work.
   
   
3. HyperX Cloud Stinger Gaming Headset - https://smile.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Stinger-Gaming-Headset/dp/B01L2ZRYVE; this headset is connected to my computer, for gaming or if I just feel like using these instead of the speakers I will mention again sometime in the future.
   
   
4. The Anchor - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/; this headphone mount sticks under the Ikea table I had mentioned earlier. Once mounted, I rest my two headphones on to them. When not in use, of course.
   
   
5. Generic, black folding TV Tray - from Fancy Red Walmart; I use this tray to hold phone, drinks, or whatever else I'd like it to hold.
   
   
6. Green bowl with spoon-shaped silverware, with a folder paper towel undereath - this was gifited to me, thanks Auntie!; before this photo was taken, this bowl was used to house Cocoa Pebbles and Whole Milk. It no longer houses said things, as they are now digesting in my vessel.
   
   
7. Pint glass - from Frederick Meyer; this pint glass was most recently used to hold drinking water poured from my Britta pitcher, with water that comes from my kitchen sink.
   
   
8. SONGMICS 3-tier Storage Cube Closet Organizer Shelf - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDR3HHG/
   
   
9. SimpleHouseware Foldable Cube Storage Bin, Dark Grey - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GKPGJH/; Items 8 and 9 are used together for storage of items unrelated to this posting.
   
   
10. Edifier R1280T Powered Bookshelf Speakers - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016P9HJIA/; these are speakers that I connect to my computer. They output sound.
    
    
11. Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L - https://smile.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B01ITE93OM; this is my keyboard. It has fancy white LEDs that light up when you press down on whatever key you press down on. It also has Cherry MX Browns.
    
    
12. Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller - this is the controller I use when I want to use a controller for gaming
    
    
13. Logitech G400 Optical Gaming Mouse - https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Optical-Gaming-Mouse-910-002277/dp/B0055QZ216; my second-favorite mouse - with my first being the Logitech MX518. I love the shape of these mouses.
    
    
14. Generic mouse pad I got off of Amazon. My mouse doesn't work without it.
    
    
15. Bluetooth speaker that I use to connect to my phone and bring to the bathroom with me when I take a shower.
    
    
16. CORSAIR CARBIDE 275R Mid-Tower Gaming Case - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K1W3KB/; inside this case is my computer. What's inside the case doesn't matter for this post, as this is about my battlestation, not my computer.
    
    
17. A Bounty paper towel roll. The Quicker Picker Upper.
    
    
18. Talking Dalek Bank - https://smile.amazon.com/Underground-Toys-Doctor-Talking-Dalek/dp/B009Y7F744; this Dalek holds my change, while giving me threatening threats.
    
    
19. A penguin.
    
    
20. A flashlight. I use this when I take my dog out for walks and it is dark out. Because I don't have night vision.
    
    
21. Below the flashlight is a container that once held M&M's. The lid of the container is shaped like the blue M&M named Blue's face. The container is currently empty.
    
    
22. A lunch box that looks like a TARDIS - https://smile.amazon.com/Doctor-Who-TARDIS-Tote-Gift/dp/B0093DJ7LS; I don't actually use this for lunch. I use it to hold random things. Yes, it's bigger on the inside.
    
    
23. ASUS VZ27AQ Monitor - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HMSZ4S/; this is a 27-inch monitor that outputs video at a resolution of 2560x1140.

I just got a Redragon K556 off Amazon and couldn't be happier. Full aluminum case (that feels awesome btw). On board memory and completely programmable through the keyboard, but comes with software which I appreciated. Completely modular plug and play switches. Fits any 3 pin cherry mx or knockoff. Tested myself with Cherrys and comes with Outemu browns. You'll have to grab "LED"/"RGB" versions of Gateron or Outemu switches off ebay though if you wan't the LED's to shine through. Cherry doesn't seem to make a shine through switch that I could find. I got these on the way. You'll notice the slit on the bottom that lets the light shine through from behind the switch.

I didn't really want a logo on my board, but at least its a cool looking dragon and not a written name. And for only $60 it left me a lot of extra cash left over for the switches I wanted and ordering some custom caps.

If your budget is sufficiently flexible:

I think the T300 Alcantara is the best bang for your buck near that price range.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-Ferrari-Alcantara-Racing-Wheel/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1497120210&sr=1-3&keywords=t300&th=1

There is a big jump in performance once you upgrade to T300 level. Fanatec and the newer Thrustmaster wheels will perform better, but not in a radically different way. You won't get qualitatively better performance (to my knowledge) unless you spend upwards of 1000 on a direct drive wheel.

The Alcantara wheel has an amazing feel and size for the price. The pedals are also decent, and the most of the more expensive wheels (newer thrustmaster, fanatec, direct drive) don't come with pedals.

Depending on your budget, you may want to put off buying the shifter for later. I don't think I have a shifter recommendation, since I think that depends on your preferences. Eg, Sturdiness, ease of mode switching, shorter throw (clubsport) Longer throw, handbrake option (th8a)

Are you on PC? Is the Thrustmaster T150 (PC and PS4) or Thrustmaster TMX (PC and Xbox one) too expensive? This is as budget as I'd go if you want brand new. The downside is you only get two pedals but do have paddle shifters. If this is too pricy try searching craigslist around your area for any used Logitech Driving Force GT's (two pedals, no h-shifter, but has a sequential shifter), or a Logitech g27 (three pedals, comes with h-shifter).

If you do want three pedals and an h-shifter, then I think the Logitech g29 (PC and PS4) or Logitech g920 (PC and Xbox one) are the current best value as far as brand new. With craigslist you can possibly find better deals locally, but it can be a crapshoot.

>But when I play games, I can feel the heat on the keyboard while typing which is real bad

I noticed that when I was playing Quake Champions. My solution was to use a small external, low-profile mechanical keyboard. Normally, I would use Cherry red switch keyboards for gaming, but the low-profile, Kailh blue switches are a pleasure to use. Very easy to carry inside of a backpack with your Helios 300. You should also be using a wireless mouse. I use the Logitech G305 wireless mouse since I am ambidextrous.

I hope the best for you. If you need to vent let me know. Strangers can be the best listeners.

The Mouse is a SteelSeries Sensei RAW. Not the most expensive or fancy, but I love it so much.

SteelSeries Sensei Laser Gaming Mouse RAW - Rubberized Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007N6HS3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nQyUAb19DCTD1

Thanks!

Avery Glue Stic White, 0.26 oz., Washable, Nontoxic, Permanent Adhesive, 1 Glue Stick (00161)
Sold by: Amazon.com Services, Inc

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Logitech G Pro Gaming FPS Mouse with Advanced Gaming Sensor for Competitive Play
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Well you could just buy a Raspberry Pi, follow the instructions to turn it into an emu device, and buy a USB game controller for cheaper than Ouya. Ouya makes it a lot less complicated, but you will pay a premium for it and the controller isn't exactly worth the $100 ...

Here's what you'd need to do the RPi setup (I use one myself, works amazingly):

Raspberry Pi Model B Console ($35) : http://www.newark.com/raspberry-pi/raspbrry-modb-512m/model-b-assembled-board-only/dp/43W5302?mckv=s2SHZ9lAe|pcrid|33870392901|plid|&CMP=KNC-GPLA

4GB SD Card: $8

USB Controller: (Found these USB SNES controllers for cheap on Amazon) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ZOAO0/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=lifehackeramzn-20&ascsubtag=[referrer|www.google.com[type|link[postId|498561192[asin|B0034ZOAO0[authorId|5716493564230329059

Keyboard

Here's a full tut, http://lifehacker.com/how-to-turn-your-raspberry-pi-into-a-retro-game-console-498561192

I'm not trying to bash Ouya, however from personal experience I think that it's important you weigh the two options and figure out which is best for you :)

I'd say the T150 is your best bet. I'm not sure if you're in the US or how the price would change depending on region, but the T150 Pro is on sale for $220. Comes with the T3PA pedals instead of the regular two-pedal board, it's great if you plan on using the TH8A shifter with your wheel. If not, the regular T150 and a DIY brake mod should do the job just nicely.

This keyboard has basically the same switches as the new Tesoro gram, these are Kailh ML switches. They have 3mm of travel compared to normal switches 4mm.

I own one of these and honestly it's pretty amazing, it's way better than I was expecting.

Alternatively, a KBD75 with Kailh speeds would work for you too.

Hey, I'm looking for a board with the following features:

Full-size or 90%
Stiff-ish, tactile, quiet switches. MX Clear or Brown or comparable
Orange or Red or RGB backlighting
As non-gamery as possible
~$50 US
Actually available
Media keys and replaceable switches is a plus, but not strictly necessary
Edit: bigass enter keys need not apply

So far, I'm looking at the following:

Redragon K556. RGB, replaceable (Otemu?) Browns. Looks alright, but I'm not big on the plank-with-keys-on-top style.
Redragon K578. RGB, non-replaceable Browns, has a nice plain look apart from the dorky keycap font and red logo.
Kaihua K16 White LED with Brown Switches. Looks nice but I'd prefer a warm-color LED. "Out of stock. No available estimate." Wonderful.

Anyone have experience these, or other recommendations in the same price range?

I'm currently sporting a Redragon K551, which is long out of warranty and developing key chatter issues in several keys.

I found a bit large for my hand the Razer DeathAdder Elite, and I refund it because the lights won't come on the mouse, replaced it with the Logitech G Pro and it fits better in my hand and the built quality feels superior than the Razer one.

Logitech G Pro

I've got several choices for you:

Leopold FC980M: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3565 (a bit over your budget but I think it's a great board); for silent switches you probably want to go with the MX silent reds if linears are your thing and you don't mind paying an extra $5. If not, then anything besides blues should be relatively quiet as well.

Ducky One 2: https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3485 Same deal with this one for the switches

Redragon K556: https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=redragon+brown&qid=1565287317&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You can turn off the LEDs if that's not your thing. This is the cheapest board, but not too bad. Pretty solid budget choice.

If none of these tickle your fancy lmk and I can find more that fits more closely to your tastes

https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-SWITCH/dp/B019MFPLC0

Well with fightsticks it’s safe to say go big or go home because most cheap ones are garbage but this one is a special circumstance. You’ll probably eventually upgrade it or upgrade to a new one but if you don’t do either of those things it will last you a super long time!

The Masterkeys Pro L is on sale for $135 right now. I have a Pro S (the tenkeyless version) and it works wonderfully. If you don't care about RGB there's a cheaper one with white LEDs as well.

People on this sub tend to not recommend Corsair and Logitech boards because of their nonstandard bottom row (it's harder to get custom keycap sets for them) as well as the lighting being tied to software (which sounds good in theory, but they're usually really buggy and overly complex). If you really particularly like their features then go for it; they're certainly not bad at all.

Logitech G Pro Wireless

Amazon Link

Highly recommended.

Changed my work life + at home with being able to set macros, I literally bring it everywhere with me in my backpack.

​

Also, the wireless, works like a charm, lasts 4-5 solid use w/ RGB, storable receiver slot underneath so you never lose it, clean ergonomic design!

​

Let me know if you have any questions.

Happy to help.

Here are some good ambidextrous mice:

• Zowie FK1 (or any other Zowie mouse)
  
  
• Razer Taipan
  
  
• Razer Abyssus
  
  
• SteelSeries Sensei
  
  
• Logitech g303
  
  
• Mionix Avior 7000
  
  Ideally you'll want an optical mouse as opposed to a laser one, with a respected sensor like the 3310.

Here is the GPo. It has a fantastic sensor with no concern. Same shape as G203 with different (lighter) switches for Mouse 1 and 2.

Best mouse I've used if shape is excluded, but I personally didn't like the shape.

Logitech G Pro Gaming FPS Mouse with Advanced Gaming Sensor for Competitive Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JPOLLTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oiWACbXNZZZCH

Edit: I definitely didn't forget the link or anything.

The wheel stand itself is like $120. The wheel and pedals have a huge range based on what you get. You might get something ok on eBay for like $125-175 but if you want a new wheel that's pretty cheap then this one is good for $200. There are wheels under that cost by they just aren't good enough in my opinion. Above that price there are wheels of all sorts of costs up to many thousands of dollars.

For CM this or this if you need a dedicated arrow cluster.

Ducky is a bit more expensive, I'd recommend a Ducky One. Go here for an easy listing of options.

Hope this helps!

o-rings are modules, just search for gateron clears, and then buy some o-rings on amazon.
I'm afraid that you won't find any gateron clears on any of the mainstream gaming keyboards.

You could buy Cherry MX browns, you'd find them quite easily they are in between linear (nicer for gaming) and tactile (nicer for typing) they are the best of both worlds.

A cool keyboard with browns and backlit (gaming at night ...) : the


link to a 100% keyboard from Cooler Master

link to a 100% keyboard from Corsair (Corsair has a bad reputation but don't listen to the r/mkb elitist, they are nice boards)

link to another Corsair boards, cheaper and simpler

finally a board from Logitech that looks like a regular mechanical keyboard without too much things on it

Best Buy is having a sale on this boxed set FOR ONLY 15 BUCKS!

For this cheap you can get a great gift for someone who dosent already have it or if you yourself have been wanting to play skyrim.

I bought this last year and have put about 1200 hours into all the games of you add them up. In this boxed set you get all 5 of the elder scrolls game INCLUDING their dlc. the only elder scrolls game you dont get is elder scrolls online.

Skyrim requires a steam account and comes with a code which will add morrowwind, oblivion, and skyrim to your steam account. All the games can be installed with the included disk and all the games except skyrim can be run without steam. (morrowind and oblivion can be run with or without steam, skyrim can also be installed with the disc but you cant play it unless you activate the code on your steam account.)

Only for PC.

Oh and you also get matching maps for each game.


edit It appears to have sold out? Good news though you can get it on amazon and walmart for 20 bucks still. http://www.amazon.com/The-Elder-Scrolls-Anthology-Pc/dp/B00E9I1FPI
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Elder-Scrolls-Anthology-PC/28201243

I didn't know such a controller existed... thank you

EDIT: Wow - this really looks like a clever advert-spam scheme

Ignore all those and buy a keyboard with real cherry MX - Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L. Yes it doesn't have RGB but do you want a good keyboard or just RGB bling?

​

https://www.amazon.in/Cooler-Master-MasterKeys-Intelligent-Switches/dp/B01ITE93OM

​

Fabulous keyboard for the money - I have been using one for over a year and it regularly goes for 5499 during sale.

A decent pair of headphones for $25 if he doesn't already have some.

A better than most headset configuration (these headphones $16 + this mic $30) if he's got a "gaming" headset

A slightly heavy adjustable-weight mouse for $45

The mouse my GF bought me for $58

A nice clicky keyboard between $27 (no backlight) and $43 (rgb backlight)

Or as my GF did, you can demand that he build you a computer so you can play together! (added benefit of him getting to build something new which is my second favorite part)

Oculus touch bundle, very good value. You even get Robo Recall for free, which is a pretty decent VR shooter

The issue with the wheel is that you will have to spend a lot of money to do much better than the g29. I do think the t300 is an upgrade, especially the Alcantara edition but it's only a slight upgrade, definitely not worth the price of the upgrade. The pedals it comes with are a slight upgrade as well, again, I wouldn't pay that price unless your kit breaks.

Loadcell pedals on the other hand are kind of a no-brainer. CSL elites w/ the load cell will last you a very long time. Contrary to some of the posters here I would suggest getting the loadcell brake pedal right away. Learning to brake on a load cell is totally different (much much better) and you will have to relearn once you get it so there is no point delaying in my opinion.

I would get those then look into a bottom tier DD like the SW7C that goes for $550 + shipping in the future.

I use the GameSir G3s on my Shield Pro, works fine with all my emulators (I have a lot of them installed). It's not quite as good as the pair of DualShock4's I use on PC, but it's better than a 360 controller IMO. Comes with a free phone clip for OTG gaming & Happy Chick EMU as well, but I'd be cautious with that, mad shady permissions.

Skyrim VR is amazing.

If you have a beastly computer go for fallout VR

If you really wanna bite the bullet and go all in, get this HOTAS/Pedal setup and get some cockpit fighter games. My recommendation is IL-2 Battle of Sturmovik. It's got a campaign you can play and great dogfighting. or Space sims like Elite: Dangeous

Get this instead! My friend has one, it's glorious. The drivers are very good too!

http://www.amazon.com/Driver-Update-Perixx-MX-2000IIB-Programmable/dp/B0083H4NG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405016121&sr=8-2&keywords=perrix

Logitech G402 mouse

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00LFBEOUA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rebind those top buttons to standard keys, remap in WoW and baby you got a 7 button mouse.

Keyboard-wise I'm rocking a 3 year old Corsair K70 Vengeance..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Vengeance-Performance-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00JIVZUDY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1TPEFM8Y6AB06&keywords=corsair+k70+vengeance&qid=1554537210&s=gateway&sprefix=corsair+k70+ven%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-3

But I'm eyeing up the Logitech G513 Linear:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Logitech-Backlit-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches/dp/B079Z3ZN8B/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=g513&qid=1554537199&s=gateway&sr=8-2

The K70 is good but it's super loud. I think I might just have to bite the bullet on a linear keyboard

well. dualshock 4 is a very viable option. although you would have to use th Dpad (which is also a very viable option). you will have to getused to it a lot. if you want a fighting stick, there are some pretty cheap options.
https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-F300-Arcade-Joystick-Switch/dp/B019MFPLC0/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mayflash+f500&qid=1565709878&s=gateway&sr=8-2 - a very cheap fightstick for entry level


https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-Arcade-Fight-Android-Switch-NEOGEO/dp/B00QM7JUMY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mayflash+f500&qid=1565709914&s=gateway&sr=8-1 - improved model of the previous one. has better build quality, parts and is more sturdy, but also more expensive

https://www.amazon.com/MAYFLASH-Buttons-Joysticks-Nintendo-Android/dp/B07QJ1JJ7J/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=mayflash+f500+elite&qid=1565710039&s=gateway&sr=8-2 - this is mayflash f500, but with sanwa buttons, which are pretty much the best arcade stick buttons you can get.


you dont have to sink hundreds of dollars into a fightstick

​

i myself am using a dualshock 4 with the dpad, and it's very viable. half circles are giving me a bit of trouble in tekken, but that's because tekken 4 half circle motion is stupid

okay for TKL boards I'll throw a few options ranging from super budget to a smidge over your budget.

$28 no backlight, blue switches (loud, clicky)
$45 RGB backlight, blue switches (loud, clicky)
$70 red backlight, MX red switches (linear, not as loud, "name brand" switches)
$80 RGB, MX red switches (linear, name brand switches)
$99 blue led. range of cherry MX switches (my personal favourites are brown or silver)

the AUKey and reddragon boards are both good 'beginner' boards to get you into the world of mechanical keybs without too much of an initial outlay.

also worth noting, if keycaps etc are a bonus for you I would steer clear of Corsair boards (i have a k65 and trying to find any keycaps that come with corsairs stupid non standard bottom row is an exercise in frustration.)

Copying this from an earlier comment, but it belongs here, too.

I was at GameStop and on the clearance shelf I found an one of these for $13. Came with Skyrim and all the DLC plus all the other Elder Scrolls games (discs and steam codes) plus maps for all of 'em. My luck here might've been a one time thing but who knows, couldn't hurt to look.

On GameStop's website it's $21 which is still pretty damn good! Check if a store near you has one.

CM Storm Quickfire TK - It is mechanical, it sounds great and is compact if you don't have a lot of space on your desk (like me).
Steelseries Sensei Raw Rubberised - it is pretty cheap and can be used by left and right hand users.#


https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/PC-Video-Games/SteelSeries-Sensei-Laser-Gaming-Rubberized/B007N6HS3G/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1483022718&sr=1-1&keywords=steelseries+sensei+raw

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CM-Storm-QuickFire-TK-Mechanical/dp/B00AOIRCI6?th=1

I have the Drevo 84 Key with brown switches and absolutely love it.

Also tried/have the Magic Force 68 key with browns and quickly realized I rely on the function keys too much in photo editing and gaming. But for just typing I prefer typing on it to typing on the Drevo.

But the drevo also has a number pad which is really useful for data entry from lab work. The media control shortcuts are also in a more logical/traditional layout.

Drevo is more functional. Magic force better for pure typing.

Some older side by side photos

I had the Logitech K380 for a while and it's not very good. None of Logitech's keyboards are. The best ultraportable is the Lenovo Compact Thinkpad Keyboard. I had the Bluetooth version and it was unfortunately very unstable (not everyone has this issue apparently), but they also make a USB version.

For an even better keyboard, go mechanical. The Anne Pro 2 is a great option, but it's much bigger than the Lenovo one. There are also low profile options like this one, but these switches are fairly new so not that many boards so far.

I'd go PS4, there are more people to play in general and most tournaments run PS4 so it could be an easier transition.

The actual net code is fine. Not that most people actually understand anything about what they call 'net code'. But for BBTAG it largely depends on your connection and the connection of the person you pair up against.

I always suggest playing with a controller first. Especially with a game like BB TAG. I played with a controller for a few months and later picked up the Mayflash F300. It's not like the best fight stick in the world but it's been a good stick nonetheless. No problems with it and I'd say it was a solid investment for the amount it cost.

I am also fairly new to fighting games. I watched the Central Fiction Top 8 at EVO 2017 with a friend and absolutely had to get into it. Picked up Central Fiction and shortly after DBFZ. Now BBTAG and UNIST. I competed at EVO 2018 last year for BBTAG, DBFZ, and Smash. I didn't win (Obviously) but I certainly didn't do bad. Especially having been playing for less then a year. So yes, you can do it if you have the drive, patience, and will to keep picking yourself up when youre down because fighting games are not easy. For the record, I'm almost 10 years older than you.

Hey. I guess I can list the two that caught my eye, I'm just undecided on which I should get/wait for. Though if you have more suggestions that would be nice as well.

I was initially interested in the MasterKeys Pro S Non-RGB version, but I think after discussing it with you or someone else I thought that the MasterKeys S PBT would be a better buy.

You also recommended the iKBC CD87 PBT, but IIRC this brand does not go on sale. I should mention that I'm fine with TKL versions.

Both of those are currently ~$100. I remember you helped with the differences and I think I preferreed the iKBC one, but the lack of sales was holding me back and I've been in limbo since.

If there are other boards that you would recommend that are similar to these I wouldn't mind taking a look.

I definitely think you could get a quality wheel for $300. The nice thing about Thrustmaster is that you can buy them from other retailers, such as Amazon, Walmart, Gamestop, Best Buy, etc.

I know I was watching this T300 w/ Alcantara because it fell to $300 in December of 2016. Similarly, this TX w/ leather wheel dropped to $300 in November 2016.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-Extra-Thin-Switches-Rollover/dp/B0722GG88M

Iv really enjoyed it. Great for typing and gaming. Keys are right where they're supposed to be and the switches feel nice imo.

GMMK TKL. It's a little more than what you're looking for but totally worth it. You could check out Red Dragon keyboard as well.. they don't have great switches but are just fine and will get you by.

https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC

You can remove the switches on this board I believe. You can install different switches when you're ready.

They have a TKL for like $44 as well.

Do you already have that 160 euro 60hz monitor? If not, for only 40 euros more you can go 144hz. That's really a no brainer.

You can save another 20 euros by getting G402 mouse which is a really nice gaming mouse and highly recommended on this sub.

I didn't realize how expensive 1660ti is in your country at 330 euros. At 200 euros, RX 580 8GB is much better value and it should be enough to get +100fps on most 1080p games on your 144hz monitor.

In USA, RX 580 8GB costs $180 on sale and 1660ti is less than $100 more expensive.

Can't find an r556, I assume you mean the k556? https://www.amazon.com/Redragon-K556-Mechanical-Keyboard-Aluminum/dp/B01NAI2TXC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Only differences are it's RGB, it's got a numberpad, and it's Brown witches, the k552 is Blue, Brown switches are a bit quieter and the tactical bump is more subtle. They're both good switches and quality wise the k552 and k556 are very similar and you'd be happy with either, just depends on which keys you want and if you want RGB and a numpad.