Reddit mentions: The best safety work gloves

A rifle: I personally suggest the Classic Army KM10, but the KM12, Delta 10/12, EC1/2, and ISSC MK22 are exactly the same internally. G&G Combat Machines, like a G&G CM18 are also very nice and popular starter guns.

Extra mags: My personal favorite are G&P High RPS. They're pretty tight in most guns but are well priced, look nice, and feed well. They fit well in Combat Machines, but I've never tested with Classic Army. Some others that fit in Combat Machines, and probably Classic Army, are Ares Ameobas and PTS EPMs. For mid-caps you'll need a speedloader. For high caps, it's not needed.

Battery: I'd suggest a 7.4v Lipo or 9.6v nimh. If you're going Lipo, buy from Hobbyking. They sell decent batteries for cheap. I'm not sure the exact dimensions of the stock each uses, but this 7.4v 2000mah 15-25c would probably fit in both and run them fine. It has a huge capacity so it'll last a while. For a charger, the Imax B6 will do everything you need it to (Charge, discharge, some other stuff) and the price isn't bad. I'd also suggest a Voltage checker for Lipos. The Classic Armys will come with a 9.6v nimh and a shitty charger. For those, just get a new smart charger. The G&Gs have a battery bundle that'll give you a 9.6v nimh and smart charger.

Head protection: For eyepro, I love Pyramex. Pyramex I-force are my personal favorite, and the V2G-XP are very good as well. They're also rebranded by Valken and are known as Valken Zulus and Sierras. The One Tigris mesh mask is by far the best lower face protection I've used. Hard cover where you need it (teeth, nose, lips) and still covers your cheeks. It's also very comfy and lets you get good cheek weld, so you can see down your sights easily. I also wear a hat and Howard Leight impact sports

Gloves: Hand shots hurt. A lot. Some nice gloves like Mechanix M-pacts are a god-send in game.

chest rig: If you want to carry extra mags, the Condor Rapid Assualt is a nice and cheap way to carry them. 6 M4 mag pouches and a lot of MOLLE to attach other pouches. It's also super adjustable and can fit almost every body type.

BBs: I almost exclusively use Elite Force .28g Bio. They're just the best BBs I've used and aren't crazy expensive. You'll have to find a weight that's best for you (Maybe buy a sample pack?) but .28s are generally best in stock guns.

Camo isn't that important, but I love my LBX Combat Uniform. The shirt uses a thin-ish material in the chest and back which is great if you're using a plate carrier or chest rig, while the arms, and pants, are made of a thick material that really takes away the sting of BBs, but still leaves enough that you can feel hits. I also like having an outfit specifically for airsoft. The pants also fit knee pad inserts. All that being said, jeans and a hoodie are perfectly fine.

given your links i think specifying country would help you out some with peoples suggestions.

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if you take into consideration this is the opinion of USA based stuff i tried to be helpful when i could

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the mesh mask like you linked is pretty much standard i would recommend that or something like [this one](https://www.amazon.it/pieghevole-protettiva-cinturino-regolabile-QM017-WL2/dp/B07C168FF8/ref=sr_1_21?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1537891661&sr=1-21&keywords=mesh+mask) not familiar with the language probably better deals but the padded sides conform better and will be a bit more comfortable.

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Goggles: not sure if in europe there is the same governing standards but US we use ansi Z87, i really like Pyramex Full seal dual pane goggles (couldn't find them on your amazon) but they run ~$15 here, ro like a pair of surplus desert Locust goggles off of ebay.

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Gloves: [Mechanix wear mpacts](https://www.amazon.it/Mechanix-Wear-M-Pact-Multicam-Multicolore/dp/B00LB46CM4/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LB46CM4&pd_rd_r=9dd90195-c0dd-11e8-92b3-217772d9a3e4&pd_rd_w=6PhCE&pd_rd_wg=JKyry&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A11IL2PNWYJU7H&pf_rd_p=18ac1db8-8667-475d-a3cb-dc2e0028cb9b&pf_rd_r=RXZEM45JCH5WZM14RHN7&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=RXZEM45JCH5WZM14RHN7) are gloves of my choice come in multicam, and some neutral earthy colors like coyote as well. The Mpacts have a rubber bumper on the back side of knuckles etc and still have good hand dexterity/feel they are pricier but quite well made in my book. Alternatively some mechanic type glove likely will offer good protection and handling dexterity and be found much cheaper wherever.

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Boots: Really get a decent hiking boot, to me then its dual purpose I use Salomon Gtx2 Mid's special colors arent a huge deal just go for something more natural in color unless you are stickler for a certain unit look (mine are actually a discountinued color which is a deep vibrant green certainly not military but hey they were cheaper and comfy gets the job done). Merrill, Lowa also known for good hiking boots over here. I feel like this one may be more dependant on whats available in your country but TDLR get a decent hiking boot in a neutral color. can use it for airsoft and hiking working etc

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Clothing: Thats a hard one a good entry point is usually army surplus but againd dependent on where you are. and or budgets as well some people go crazy with Crye and whatnot but my advice starting out keep it simple go like with some surplus it will be more durable than most "airsoft" marketed or grade stuff. High end being europe i think? i would say go like with claw-gear before Crye (actually imported clawgear to us here as was cheaper than crye been happy with it so far) But really some decent milsurp or mid/entry level branded tactical stuff like 5.11 etc vs airsoft or Chinese knockoffs.

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whew and sorry for the block of text!

Multipurpose waterproof match case. I prefer this case because it's not much bigger than other waterproof cases, but has other stuff built into it. I put waterproof matches in it along with the striker strip from the package. The whistle is good for signaling. The other functions are marginal, so I supplement them with the actual things, which consist of a signal mirror, lensatic compass, and emergency fire starter.

A stove and solid fuel. I was pretty impressed with this particular one when I received it. It's stainless steel, well constructed, and you can store four fuel tabs inside of it.

A multitool and a fixed-blade knife. I don't have either of these specific models, but they seem pretty decent.

A folding shovel. These are good for burying waste, helping a car gain traction in the winter, etc.

A self-adhesive bandage. This is a three-pack. The single one cost $4 locally. Buy this one and leave the other two in your medicine cabinet. Wrap the remaining one around a piece of cardboard and put it in your emergency pack.

Disposable antibacterial wipes.

Antimicrobial silver gel. Like Neosporin, but better. Stays on a wound for multiple days without covering, and the colloidal silver is a strong antimicrobial agent. See the oligodynamic effect.

Dust masks. This is for a 50-pack, but for half the price, you only get 10 at a local store. These help prevent you from spreading germs if you're sick, and keep you from inhaling macroscopic particles if you're in a dusty/dirty area.

QuikClot sponge bandage. This helps to stop bleeding from major injuries. Along with an Israeli battle dressing you have two great ways to help stem major bleeding, separately or combined.

Local anesthetic for stings. Good for numbing injuries other than stings, too.

Sterile pads, 4” x 4”.

Sunscreen.

Cigarette-adapter power inverter. Good for charging small electronics.

Hand warmers.

Work gloves and watchcap.

All of the following are probably best bought in stores or scrounged up around the house:

Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, all with obvious uses.

Aspirin, for heart attacks and pain, ibuprofen for pain, anti-histamine for allergic reactions, and Imodium or off-brand equivalent for diarrhea. I can't stress having Imodium enough. Having cramps and shits can render you unable to do anything for long periods of time, even more so than other ailments.

A disposable razor can be used to shave to keep up appearances, or to shave the area around a wound for better bandaging.

Maxi pads and tampons can be used as intended as well as to prevent bleeding from wounds.

Toilet paper. Wrap it around a piece of cardboard to save space.

Bandanas or an old shirt can be used to make a sling, protect yourself from the sun, filter macroscopic particles out of water, filter dirty/dusty air, etc.

Hot chocolate with caffeine added can be used to help stay alert.

Lighters are a must-have to start a fire.

I also have a Ziploc bag containing about ten cotton balls soaked in petroleum jelly. They're great firestarters.

Cash. Keep various bills and coins in an amount that you think is suitable for emergencies.

Maps. Carry folding maps of your area, state, and surrounding states.

I think that covers everything that I have. There's a lot of redundancy, but it all fits in my bag, so I'm happy with it. I'm definitely interested in hearing thoughts as to what can be added or changed.

Buy a pack of cheap gloves and you can make them last all season. Go into a place like IRL in PG and there will be some hanging on a rack, and if you just buy the box/bag of them you'll be set all season+ be able to sell some to folks mid season. Or get some online or another work-wear dealer, Marks or Home Depot might, but they usually get their $$ by selling them for 3-4 per glove.

• Newly washed pair every day, after the day of work put them with laundry. Also remember: when buying gloves some types don't wash well, and will fall apart faster - such as the ones that look shiny on the "dipped rubberized" part. or especially the wooly types. All of them likely have that rubberized look, but the shiny surface ones wear out much much faster, it flakes and then peels off while the more dull black is more a part of the fabric and tends to stick to the lycra type fabric. In the end they all wear out, it's just a matter of helping it to not wear out as quickly as it would with just whatever glove you find and shoving your hand in dirty ones.
  
  
• Use ducttape on your fingers kind of like people wrap them when they go gloveless, though this is in order to save the knuckles & fingertips of your gloves. It makes your fingers less damaged from rocks and thorns as well too. Not all of them, just the 2-3 fingers on your tree hand & the thumb. Think about guarding the glove & your knuckles with the tape like with one thin long strand just the width of your middle-finger going from the top of your hand ---> up your finger and around the tip of your finger ---> finishing on the inside of your finger near your palm. Then wrap two or three little bands around the finger to hold it in place. You'll figure it out.
  
  
• Some days on rockier days I tape down the tips of my fingers inside the gloves for more padding since it's your fingernails grinding on the grit in the gloves against rocks which poke out the end of the gloves. We've all gone through a single pair of gloves in a day - having a roll of ducttape and a few strips of tape per day saves gloves through entire seasons, especially when you factor in flipping gloves over & scrounging them during the season and having a rotation of 5 or so through the laundry.
  
  Then at the end of the day I take the tape off. I've accidentally had it run through the wash before and it usually melts into the glove slightly and makes it tough to get all the grit out. It's a bit of a chore, but it beats jamming your nail on a rock and having your glove split at 9AM and your backup fail an hour later. This way you save your gloves lots of wear and tear.
  
  I like wearing a padded glove for the shovel hand some days, or one thicker for wet and cold days. Cutting out finger-holes in the end of a wool sock can make a nice arm warmer & also sort of protects vs devils club and retains some nice residual head in the shovel arm. For the tree-hand I like to use thinner nitrile gloves but guarding them from wear like described above. During the day I never take off my tree-hand glove since it's taped up, and use my right hand for food. And since the tree-hand will be more damp from going in the ground it makes sense to sometimes wear some different style on the shovel hand.
  
  As for pants there's a few useful types
  
  
• lighter coolmax ones with quick-dry fabric, maybe with zipoff pant legs
  
• thick ones like restaurant pants or mail-carrier ones - water repellent/anti-thorn-penetrable
  
  I prefer just tights/shorts/gaiters for most days, though in the hot summer the light quick-dry ones are good to keep your legs cool, and some people really enjoy having a stout pair of denim or somesuch - I just find thicker fabrics to make me sweat too much. On crazy devils-club blocks it might be nice to have a thick pair of pants, but other than that I have come to like the simplicity and comfort of tights/courtesy shorts.

I love projects like this. Your furnishings feel much more your own, and they take on a sense of permanence you can't get with big box furnishings.

A heat gun and putty knives work very well to remove the stickers. Use a low setting, don't keep the heat focused on one area for too long and keep an eye out for browning, singeing, smoking, and fire. You've got lots of space to work with so skip around to allow the wood to cool. You'll potentially be removing whatever finish is on the couch if you are too heavy handed and or use too much heat. If you plan on refinishing use the heat gun and putty knife to remove the finish.

You can try just scraping with a razor blade to remove most of the stickers and then saturating the area with full strength degreaser, such as D-Limonene.covering the area with a paper towel to keep the degreaser in place.

A couple of razor tools to consider: 4" wide short handled for large areas with thick layers of stickers. Smaller razor scrapers with metal and plastic blades. Plastic detail scrapers might be useful too.

Instead of using Goo Gone I like pure D-Limonene solution. It's a potent degreaser extracted from citrus peels and contains no petroleum distillates, unlike Goo Gone. It also comes in food safe solution - though to be safe for digestion it really does need to be quite dilute.

Use the putty knife and rags or gauze to clean the adhesive from the wood. Large Woven Gauze Sponges are more scratchy and will give more traction with absorption. Rolled Stretch Gauze Bandages have the same great absorbing properties but they're softer and great for detail work. You'll get to know what you prefer - I'm partial to gauze sponges. They're cheap and I just toss them into the compost bin as long as they aren't too bummed up with adhesive top.


To remove the degreaser dish soap and rubbing alcohol work well. I like Dr Bronner's castile soap diluted for dishwashing. Wipe down with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. You should be good to move on to your next step, probably sanding and smoothing, patching any holes or gouges to prep for staining and finishing or painting.

I linked a whole bunch of products to give you an idea of what will work for certain applications. There are definitely other ways to achieve the same goals, this is just how I tackle this task. Please don't order everything listed here at once, see what works from you. I link Amazon because they have everything but locally owned small businesses are an invaluable resource and great when you get stuck in a project.

Don't forget your PPE'S!

Dust Mask - I like this one as you can vacuum the filters out to extend the life and reduce waste. It has a smaller profile too - my husband actually doesn't complain about wearing it, just puts it on.

N95 Respirator
Replacement filters available on Amazon

Comfortable Safety Glasses or Goggles

Heat Resistant Gloves

Long Cuff Gloves Disposable

Some type of work gloves

Good luck!

Adam Savage did a big thing on this and he has some great advice.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nprbd76FFFI

As others have indicated, it depends what you'll be working on.

As far as a multitool, you shouldn't rely on one utterly. I have one that I carry at work but I virtually never touch it when I'm working on a project with my own tools. It's basically a back-up in case I'm at work and need a screw driver or pliers and don't have one at the ready.

Multitools are incredible but they're not nearly as good as the individual tools themselves are at their individual jobs; yes the pliers are good but a pair of dedicated pliers is going to be much better.

I do a lot of odd-ball things; a lot of salvage, tear down, scrapping, etc and as such I have a bit of an odd assortment of tools.

A couple of my indispensables;

• A good set of wire cutters. I'd recommend having two or even three of these if you can; one for use only with smaller wire, the others for whatever else you need them for. You really don't need to be name-brand about this, I still use a pair I bought at the dollar store five years ago and they work just fine.
  
  
• A heat gun. It comes in handy for so many different things. A basic one is like $20 off Amazon.
  
  
• Strong knife with serrations. This is probably my most used tool and it does so many things. The serrations are vital, they add a lot to the cutting power.
  
  
• Jeweler's screwdrivers (sometimes called microscrewdrivers or eyeglass repair screwdrivers). These come in handy on virtually a weekly basis for anything you can imagine. Even a basic kit from the dollar store will save your bacon repeatedly and I highly recommend getting a set.
  
  
• Gloves. Get yourself a pair of basic padded work gloves. Something like these will save you a lot of pain and frustration with virtually any project. I can't recommend these highly enough.
  
  
• Electrical tape. Good stuff for almost anything.
  
  I would also say don't feel like you need to buy every tool you think you might possibly one day need. I've developed a lot of skills that revolve around having to finish something and not having the proper tools or materials to do it because I'm generally very broke and tools are not something I have ready access to. There are obvious concessions to make to this when it comes to things like safety and the bare minimums (cutting plywood with a multitool saw sucks balls) but all in all having to improvise and be creative with what you have can be very instructive.

Well that kind of defeats the purpose of gloves. But it really depends on what your father does with them on.

There are some important questions you should ask like how important is dexterity? If it is a must then I would recommend the cheap latex coated cotton ones basically any brand is fine. If it is chopping wood/ using tools then Buckskin is soft on the hands. If he is working in dirt then you want a tight grain leather with good stitching and a velcro wrist cuff (dirt in your glove sucks) If he is working in the cold then elkskin gloves are a must (they have better insulation but can make your hands sweat in summer). Goat gloves are good for hanging barb wire but can be rough on the hands after a long day. If he is working in wet conditions then you don't want leather at all instead go for a synthetic. If he is using them in really messy or compromising situations just get the cheapest cotton you can throw away after. And on top of that everyone has a preference for fit I personally like mine tight with a wrist strap but I know many guys who like them loose so make sure to get the right size.

Stay away from anything gimmicky. If it has gel pads, knuckle guards, or plastic armor leave it alone. So it all depends on what he does with them. Personally I would recommend leather over synthetic in my experience the stitching lasts better for whatever reason but if you do go synthetic I would recommend Ironclad. Brands aren't as important in gloves just don't get the cheapest or the most expensive and you should be ok. If you can get a ranch type one the best gloves I ever had were from a local source.

Sorry this is a kind of shitty answer but as someone who has heavily used gloves for over a decade in all sorts of conditions and purposes it really depends. If you want a good all rounder I would go latex or elkskin. Besides get him a few pairs and he can put one in the car and I promise he will use them at some point and be thankful they were there. Toss in some smartwool/darn tough socks and he will appreciate the gift immensely.

Mechanix gloves, they are proper decent.

These are quality gloves which are great for police work. They provide a good amount of protection, the palms are made out of a tough synthetic leather material, this will protect your hands from getting cut up from any debris or assorted detritus you may encounter during your duties. The other benefit of this material is you can use a touch screen with it. It is also quite water resistant, unlike woolly gloves. The back of the hand is made out of a fabric material, which is very breathable in summer. On some models there is a velcro strap for them, on others there is just some elastic (personally I have the elastic ones as they are easier to get on and off). There is also a Velcro loop to help you get them on and off. They are very dexitile and easy to manipulate, unlike leather gloves. Meaning you can get your kit out easier, work zips and even do a quick initial search. They also pack away quite easily, unlike bulky leather gloves, meaning you can keep them in your tacvest or a pocket. They are quite warm in winter, but if your hands get cold just slip on a merino wool liner underneath and it will keep you warm. They do a range of models, all of which are good and fairly cheap.

Mechanix Fast Fit gloves - I like these ones. Very cheap at £13. They are the ones you can slip on and off. These are the ones I use for work.

Mechanix Original - Same as the fastfit ones, but with velcro and more expensive. The velcro can be a failure point though.

Mechaniz M-PACT - More expensive, but has extra knuckle and finger guards. Also more tacticool if that's your thing.

Sealkskinz - These are very warm glove liners. Merino wool is a lovely material, which is soft and not itch, it also wicks well and keeps you warm when wet. Wear these underneath in deepest darkest winter, they will keep you warm. Also Sealskinz is a good brand for thermals or woolly hats/gloves.

Another small handed individual here! These are the gloves I've grown accustomed to- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004XOHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518891117&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=framer+gloves&dpPl=1&dpID=51YI88yQobL&ref=plSrch
My only real qualm is that I have been able to wear them out with some very heavy use, but they are cheap so I just order another pair if I get to that point. They are an excellent fit for me personally, flexible but with enough support and structure to still be gloves. The main thing I'd look for, whether you go with this brand or not, are framers gloves. They are a hybrid between fingerless and full fingered, freeing your thumb, index, and middle fingers which gives you identical dexterity as if you weren't wearing gloves. It's perfect for working with small hardware. I do keep a full fingered set on hand as well for certain tasks, but the framer style is my go-to 90% of the time.

A miniature sewing kit. When you’re running missions outside, clothes tend to get ripped, and with only limited numbers, life can get rough. A sewing kit helps.
Spirarcha chili sauce. If your soldier likes spicy foods, send them this. It’s spicy, it has flavor, and it will last them a few months.

Socks and underwear. Send them hiking socks and replacement pairs of underwear. Clothes tend to get gross and if they don’t have laundry, sometimes it is for the best to toss out old underclothes and wear new ones.

Beef jerky.

Trail mix of various types.

Great ideas for one-time gifts. These range from relatively cheap, to pricy and are a great surprise to a soldier stationed anywhere. I’ve included links to the products to give you an idea of what they look like, though don’t take those links as the only/cheapest place to find them:

Adjustable two-point sling. On base they have to carry around a weapon everywhere, and on mission they’ll be going some serious distance with it in their hands. If they are still using an Army-issue plain sling life is going to get a bit annoying. An adjustable two-point sling makes things more convenient and lets them ready a weapon to fire without an awkward movement on a mission. Ignore this if they are using a machine-gun, because those use heavy duty slings. Various companies make these, I prefer the VTAC, but they are all similar in make.

Surefire Earplugs. On mission, soldiers are supposed to wear earplugs, but many don’t because its uncomfortable and often all they are issued are cheap low qualifty plugs. Surefire earplugs conform to the shape of the ear and they are designed to allow someone to still be able to hear conversation level noise while protecting from high level noise. These are great.

Head-Loc helmet straps. One of the greatest pains is a helmet that won’t stay secure. The Head-Loc straps stay tighter and make the helmet so comfortable that you forget you’re wearing it.

PMAGs. Magpul plastic magazines, or PMAGs are high quality replacements for metal GI magazines. Army issued metal magazines are often used for years past the date that they should be retired and they are prone to feeding issues (I won’t get into the details) and PMAGs fix many of those issues and give a soldier more confidence in their equipment. A combat load is 7 magazines, so don’t feel the need to buy more than that, and even one or two PMAGs is greatly appreciated. Ignore if they are using a machinegun.

Head-lamp. Walking around an outpost at night is tricky and Afghanistan can get dark, a head-lamp is a great help to keep your soldier from stubbing their toe or walking into barbed wire. Get only with some kind of red or blue light filter.

Mechanix gloves. Soldiers need to wear gloves on mission and they tend to get torn up, a replacement pair of mechanixs gloves is a good choice.

OK dont worry you guys. I've got this. First things first, you're going to need to open up a credit card with a high limit. $30k should do to start.

• Rubber Floor Mats. I got the Mopar ones. I might suggest Weathertech instead. If you have the unlimited, you can get mats for the back was well. I cannot find any mats for the back of my two door :(
  
• Have a dog? Plan on running with the roof off? Want to prevent them from falling out? Safari Straps have your back.
  
• Off Roading? I suggest some tire deflators to air down conveniently, and a portable air compressor to air back up.
  
• Grab Handles are great. Here's one example, but I recommend shopping around. Theres a lot of different styles, find what you like.
  
• Hi Lift Jack & Base. You'll quickly find off road that the stock jack will not get you out of a lot of situations. The base is helpful on soft surfaces (wet dirt, sand, etc).
  
• Change your own damn oil! It's easy. No jack required just shimmy under there. Make sure to get an oil catcher big enough for your motor. 6-8 QTS if I recall correctly.
  
• Buy a shovel. Invaluable off road
  
• Recovery Strap & learn how to use it properly.
  
• Mechanics Gloves. Again very helpful around the jeep.
  
  That should get you off to a good start. Eventually you might think about replacing the bumpers, adding a tire carrier, lifting the jeep, getting bigger wheels, adding a winch, adding a roof rack.

• Kreg pocket hole jig -- $40 to make carpentry projects super easy.
  
• Rivnut tool -- for mounting things to sheet metal.
  
• Shop towels -- more versatile paper towels.
  
• good cooler -- ice last 5-8 days even in the middle of summer heat.
  
• bug nets for windows -- but them pre-made or build your own. Gives you airflow in summer without letting the bugs in.
  
• candle lantern -- cheap. Safe if you blow it out before crawling into bed. Nice soft lighting to give you a break from blue LEDs.
  
• Aeropress coffee maker -- great coffee where ever you are. Quick and easy to clean.
  
• mechanic gloves -- for when you've got to do work and don't want super greasy hands and bloody knuckles.

I biked to work today. It was windy, but altogether a pretty pleasant ride overall. I guess I can provide a few tips.

• I use http://forecast.io and the companion app Dark Sky to get really accurate forecasts for a certain location over the next hour. This morning, that allowed me to ride during a gap in the rain.
  
  
• For clothing, I recently bought these two things and they work like a charm in combination with a headband (for ears):
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ZC5Z68
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YPZKY
  
  Also, lights and reflective tape go a long way.

Gloves, use them for a very long time, not too much protections, but super comfortable and durable

Mechanix Wear - M-Pact Coyote Tactical Gloves (Large, Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007INZVHO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mXfNzbFFTD9T9


Mask, has soft sides, really easy to aim down the sights with it



OneTigris Foldable Half Face Mesh Mask Military Style Comfortable Adjustable Tactical Lower Face Protective Mask 9 Colors Available (Green) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT0HESQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dYfNzb5TWRBWP

I fell at 30 mph with these gloves and it saved my palms. These are designed to absorb high impacts on the palms and I agree that they're not as great as wrist guards. But they do give you the freedom to move your wrist comfortably, compare to wrist guards where they really restrict you. Small things like being able to use your phone with wrist guards are sometimes difficult.

Overall, wrist guards are great if you go high speeds and the mechanix gloves are great on casual daily rides.

Mechanix Wear - M-Pact Covert Tactical Gloves (Large, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YSS0EQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.8rcBbA4TR8N9

heck yeah! i use these bad boys! As much as I love my aquariums, I find the idea of sticking my naked hand into an established tank to be super icky. haha

Check YouTube for some StrongFirst or RKC swing videos. Karen Smith has some great instructional videos.

Hinge, do not squat. Look at your hips in the video. Your hips are dropping down, your knees are bending and traveling out over your toes. What you should be seeing is:

1. setup with the bell out in front of you. You should be looking straight down on the handle once you bend over (also a hinge). Your arms should actually be angled from your head/shoulders a few degrees towards the top of your head, not straight down, when you grip the bell. Grip the floor/ground with your toes. From here, use your lats to pull the bell towards your hips, hiking it up to your butt like an American football. This should load up your hamstrings for the hip snap. One movement, not two small swings.
   
   
2. Once the bell has reached it rearward most motion, it's time to snap the hips into your forearms. You want to mimic the vertical jump motion. This is all in the glutes and hamstrings. Contract them hard and forcefully. This will put the bell into it's forward/upward motion.
   
   
3. The bell will swing up and out on its own. Keep your shoulders in their sockets.
   
   
4. Your arms do not lift the bell - they are just ropes, straps or whatever that attach the bell to your body. This is all hips, but your back will get some work. Don not shrug up with your shoulders or use your arms to lift the bell. If you think you might be using your arms, loop a towel through the handle of the bell and swing the bell gripping the towel. If your arms do not stay in alignment with the towel throughout the swing, you're doing something wrong.
   
   
5. The hip snap should end with you standing upright. The bell should come to the top and float for a short bit before beginning the downswing. Be sure to squeeze your glutes hard at the top of the swing. Try to cramp them. This protects your lower back. Do not lean back. Your body should form a vertical straight line and your arms should also form a straight line with the bell at somewhere between waist to shoulder height. I prefer my swings to come up chest high at a minimum.
   
   
6. You can either passively allow the bell to come down, or, for a bit more of a challenge, you can use your lats and abs to pull the bell down. Stay upright until the bell is almost straight down. Your wrists/forearms should be just brushing your groin when you punch the hips back (pretend there is a heavy bag behind you and you are trying to punch it) and allow the bell to continue back to the hike position. Keep your eyes forward - do not look back between your legs.
   
   
7. Once you get this, you'll see in your next video that your hips will be moving back and forth as opposed to up and down. Your knees will bend only to accommodate your hip punch (back) and snap. Your shins should remain nearly vertical throughout the movement.
   
   Personally, I would ditch the gloves as well. However, if your work requires a lack of callouses on your hands, I understand. You might want to try these. They are not as thick and give you a much better feel for the bell while still offering grip and protection.

I'll link a few that I've bought. I've used all of them for different things, and there are somethings I just won't use 'em for after. I'll always have a few to rotate and wash.

• Memphis Ninja Lite N9696L - For handling produce or meats I'll try and use the stores own ordered thin/blue/black gloves. However, if I'm handling chicken that always leaks, I'll either throw 'em or put em in a plastic bag to bring back home and wash.
  
  
• 300 INT Ice Gripster - For the freezer I'll also use the stores bought gloves.
  
  
• CLC 125L + True Grip Heavy Duty For general working around I've used these two. I think you'd like them as they have the touch screen on 'em so you can use the devices with. I've learned not to work with freezer/produce with these because moisture in the long run fucks 'em up. Well that and moving wooden pallets all over the place.
  
  
• Hex1 2120 - These also have the screen touch. These have been my favorite ones. A bit tight fitting on me for a large. Expensive though. Actually have been asked about them from the remodel construction crew and steritech technicians(?).
  
  I haven't minded paying the price for these as they've saved my hands throughout most of the shit I've handled. And I get to continue to use 'em/share 'em when doing my own work or helping others. The touch-screens I've loved a lot with the Zebra, but I try and be careful with them with moisture/sharp objects since they seem to deteriorate quite fast when not paying attention.
  
  There hasn't been a pair that is perfect for everything, but because I can bring these and leave 'em in a box in the back I just switch out for whatever I need at the time. Right tool for the right job.

1. If you are planning on buying one specifically for the event, a generic mil-surp ruck will handle your first few challenges. I would avoid frame packs, as challenges can be pretty awkward if you can trying to wrestle around a metal frame during PT.
   Another option is to ask around inside of the Facebook group for your event. There might be an alumni willing to loan you a spare ruck.
   
   
2. Your ruck and bricks are usually the least unpleasant aspect of what you'll be carrying around. I'd focus on getting as strong as possible at your current bodyweight, instead of cutting weight (and strength, and endurance) to be allowed to carry fewer bricks. If keeping the 5 pounds makes you more capable of lugging around a water can, log, chunk of sidewalk, buddy, etc... that's the way to go.
   
   
3. Regular old Mechanix gloves have served me very well, and are pretty cheap. If I know the area is really sandy (and likely to work its way in to the velcro and open up the glove), I've been known to throw a strip of electrical tape around my wrist to just strap the things on for the challenge.
   http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MG-55-009-Original-Covert/dp/B0001VNZUA/
   
   
4. The dedicated training plans on the site are quite good (so is Military Athlete, though not free - http://militaryathlete.com/page.php?page_ID=12&cart_category_ID=54), but just following as much of http://training.goruck.com as possible is my recommendation. A lot of effort goes in to their programming.
   A 40# sandbag can function as half the gear you need for a basic fitness program at home.

The only equipment you need is a tank and reel, thermometer, some measuring graduates, and a dishpan to get the chemicals up to temp. Some clips to hang the film to dry, even clothespins. A closet or room capable of being 100% dark with no light leaks or a changing bag. The raw chemicals to process 10-50 rolls of B&W might be around $30-$45 depending on developer. With Rodinal or HC-110, cost per roll gets down to a buck or so I'd guess, though never done the math. A good pair of scissors and some print file sleeves for your format. I like cheap cotton gloves for sleeving my negs.

The really cool thing about doing your own B&W: a given film and developer are a system that work together; a system you can tweak fairly extensively. The control available through developer choice, and controlling dilution and time, is pretty remarkable. So if you really advance into this, and find you really like B&W, at some point you may find you have to soup your own film to get the look you want,

E6 can also benefit from developer control (when I shot fashion and editorial, every single roll and sheet of E6 I shot got pushed at least 1/4 or 1/3 stop). I don't think developer choice is as big a deal with E6, but mild or extreme pushing can give you very cool results.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MMP-72-008-M-Pact-Coyote/dp/B0019IA1DS

Pretty sure that's what you're looking for and I agree with the guy above, the rubber has been peeled off. I've worn out many pairs of those exact gloves on the job over the years (not an operator operating operationally on operations, more of a mechanic mechanicing mechanically on mechanics) and the rubber generally starts to peel off at the tips of the fingers and is actually pretty stiff. It peels and sticks off like a claw and for me, since it snags every time I try to put my hand in my pocket for a wrench or screwdriver, it's annoying and slows me down on the job. For anyone handling firearms it could be quite more than annoying if you're operating the controls on your weapon and those little extra fingers are hitting and snagging things they shouldn't. I can't really recommend these gloves since there's so many better options out there.

I wear these pretty much exclusively now and they're a much better glove; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007INZVHO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494520261&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mechanix+tactical+gloves&dpPl=1&dpID=51X-vZoJljL&ref=plSrch

Happy Birthday! I hope that your day is the best day.

I would love this or this

Most days I wear Kinco Deerskin Gloves and they are warm and durable. They suffice in most Sierra Conditions. If the deerskin gets wet, it dries supple, unlike cow leather. For storm days, I generally wear these Kincos. Both pairs get snosealed in the oven, and work pretty well.

Next time you're on the hill, look around, and chances are the Patrollers, Lift Mechanics, and other personnel who work outside will be similarly gloved. Kincos are our industry standard because they are warm, cheap, and durable. My "ski" gloves sit in a drawer collecting dust, because my Kincos are better, and I'm not worried about ruining them on the clock.

Mechanix Wear Tactical MultiCam M-Pact https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LB46F5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VZufzbZYY05VP
So far they are great. Easy to use a rifle with, and they fit like a glove

You want a Nitrile glove they are impervious to Diesel as well as other chemicals.

The standard are the exam Gloves which are good for fine work. But they also make Gloves dipped/coated in Nitrile.

If you want full protection something like these.

https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Glove-WG772M-26-Inch-Nitrile/dp/B001PBEJ00

These gloves are full dipped and a PVC cuff instead of a cotton cuff or being only palm dipped so they offer full protection for just hands.

https://www.airgas.com/product/Safety-Products/Gloves/Coated-Work-Gloves/p/MEG9786S

The thing is that they are not going to be really durable like leather gloves.

Ifg you just want palm coverage there are several cotton gloves with nitrile not coating everything.

You might also check out these.

http://www.superiorglove.com/work-gloves/leather-gloves/oil-resistant-leather-gloves

http://www.superiorglove.com/work-gloves/chemical-resistant-gloves

You're really not gonna get a consensus on this, this is such a subjective question.

Personally, I recommend you start off with something like base level Mechanix. They're a bit cheaper than other options, are decently sturdy, and a good introduction into what you want out of combat gloves.

Those coyote ones are what I currently use and they're far far better than the 5.11 gloves I started with. The 5.11s started to fall apart after a few months and were just overall less comfortable than the Mechanix.

Several people I play with use Gorilla Grips from Homedepot; I have used them and they work very well. Another industrial glove I have used is MaxiFlex Ultimate and I love them but are harder to find in stores.

I have tried Huck Nation (didn't like them at all) and Friction gloves (good, but not worth the price) and neither of them compared to the value of $3-$5 gloves found at your local hardware store. When in doubt look for gloves with a Nitrile coating and you will be very happy.


Edit: Links

MaxiFlex Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Maxiflex-34-874-Ultimate-Nitrile-Gloves/dp/B00P4PJOWG?th=1

Gorilla Grips Homedepot

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grease-Monkey-Gorilla-Grip-Large-Gloves-3-Pair-25077-060/300867965

I've got a pair of Ironclad framing gloves, leaves main digits free for dextrous work are solid, running on close to two years and they are great.

https://www.amazon.com/Ironclad-Framer-Gloves-FUG-04-L-Large/dp/B00004XOHE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518206409&sr=8-1&keywords=ironclad+framer+gloves

The move seems to be Mechanix gloves.

I've been using these to great success.

Ironclad Framer.

I like the cutoff index, middle, and thumb. Makes wrapping cable and tying tieline easy.

Just don't use them to load weight on a fly system. I learned that the hard fun way.

I got a pair of these Mechanix and they're pretty great.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019I7XAM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you can't wear fingerless gloves, the next best thing are something like these. Light and breathable and not bulky so you have some dexterity.

I've never found a pair of glasses that won't fog up eventually, so just get some anti-fog wipes or some Cat Crap.

To add onto this since you have no gear:

Buy one of these batteries: http://www.evike.com/products/52945/

One of these smart chargers: http://www.evike.com/products/61888/ (it is definitely worth the money to not fry a battery)

Some gloves like these: http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Tactical-Original-Covert/dp/B0001VNZUA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1462666524&sr=1-1&keywords=mechanix

A lower face mesh like this: http://www.evike.com/products/33666/

Some ANSI z87.1 goggles from basically anywhere or a painball mask to substitute for those and the face mesh

And that should be enough to get started

Nothing short of laser treatment or removing several layers of skin will make a tattoo "wear out". Exposing a fresh tattoo to aquarium water all day is a great way to get an infection though. Get some shoulder length gloves like these before sticking your arm in the tank.

*Edit, Me Dumb, didn't recognize OP's was for a double pack, it would help if I read...

And $19.48 at Amazon, with Free shipping if you have prime, or $35+ order = Free shipping

This is for a Large, its cheaper for medium or small, and $0.50 more for X-Large ($19.98)

I know this is kind of stupid, but I've been using work gloves instead of pot holders for a while.

Plus: they're cheap. They fit to your hand so you can have more control. They're meant for industrial use, so they should last a long time.

I can't find one on amazon, but they're somewhat between these: http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Leathercraft-125M-Handyman-Gloves/dp/B0002YPZKY/ref=lp_553608_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1394420057&sr=1-4 and the regular latex dipped work gloves.

one cart would be a little hard to do..but im bored atm so I guess I can link stuff from head to toe lol

Head: Dye Mask + Beanie

Neck: Neck wrap thing

Chest: SS Lv119 Overt + SS Micro Flight

Back: Flatpack or Minimap

Hands: Gloves

Belt: Ronin or HSGI Slim

Sidearm: G19

Primary: Mp5

Boots: Merrell

Regulator: Dual or nothing

Tanks: Slim yet plenty of air

also not even going off your 1k budget lol. pick and choose what you want but this is one of my setups. can always buy knockoff versions if you like it

Maxiflex. Hands down. Feel good, fit my hands well, not very thick, but not too thin. I found myself eating lunch with them on sometimes... 9/10 would recommend. Just don't get them soaked.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxiflex-34-874-Ultimate-Nitrile-Gloves/dp/B00P4PJOWG?th=1

These specifically.

I use get a pair of these to ski in. Best money I've ever spent on gloves. I'm sure they could be found at a hardware store around town.

Not fingerless (cause fingerless cuts off my circulation), but I love Mechanix Gloves https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Tactical-Original-Covert/dp/B0001VNZUA/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487365737&sr=1-4&keywords=Mechanix

"framer" gloves are a good cheap glove that still leaves a couple of fingers and thumb free for more dexterity.
https://www.amazon.com/Ironclad-Framer-Gloves-FUG-04-L-Large/dp/B00004XOHE

The people in the world cup are probably wearing these...
https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Packs-and-accessories/CORDEX

I use these, they double as pretty good hiking/climbing gloves (original reason I got them was for my trail climbing in Peru)

For scope: get a used tek on craigslist

For function generator: this kit

For iron: Hakko 888

You probably want a bench PSU as well: Korad 3005D

You need safety gear too!

• Respirator - half face with P100 filters
  
  
• Goggles
  
  
• Gloves
  
  Don't forget blank PCBs and etchant, breadboard, jumper wires, etc.

I love my fingerless gloves for work, I go back and forth from wiring to metal work. So slicing my hands up is common if they aren't worn. http://smile.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-CG-Leather-Framer/dp/B0019KBGC6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453064111&sr=8-1&keywords=framing+gloves

I use these electronic ear muffs. They work quite well but sometimes you have to double up if the guy next to you has a big boom stick. Gloves I use Mechanix, they're cheap and good.

Consider Mechanix M-pacts instead, they are cheaper, protect your hands better for paintball and they come in multicam/coyote.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MultiCam-Tactical-Camouflage/dp/B00LB46CM4/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LB46CM4&pd_rd_r=XRNXWPHWC908AY3XTGG5&pd_rd_w=wYpoz&pd_rd_wg=4HiiB&refRID=XRNXWPHWC908AY3XTGG5&th=1

I still do bar/nightclub work, I usually wear a pair of leather sap gloves or a pair of the soft knuckle gloves from Line Of Fire. I also have used Hatch brand gloves with hard knuckles, but every pair of hatch gloves I have owned has not stood up to more than a couple months of constant use. I highly recommend Line Of Fire, I know the Sentry and Operator series are a little more pricey, but they do have some more affordable options that have a pretty high level of cut protection. Mechanix makes a pair of covert tactical gloves that are becoming more and more popular. These Mechanix gloves have become popular due to their affordability, and the "normal" look they have to them, no shaped knuckles or anything that could contribute to the "intimidating" glove style some companies don't allow.

I use these mostly if its actual real work i'm doing. Camp setup, tear down, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Leathercraft-125M-Resistant-Stretchable/dp/B0002YPZKY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498854187&sr=8-3&ppw=fresh&keywords=work+gloves

But then I also have a pair of fingerless biking gloves that I use as well. For my daily carry I usually keep the biking gloves if i venture out. The fingerless are good if you want more dexterity and its hot out. In camp I always have the more durable work gloves handy if I need more protection.

I use Mechanix gloves - favorite is Mechanix Original Covert Large , you just have to keep in mind they're disposable and will break. I also have a pair of leather gardening gloves that I bring along when I'm foraging wood.

In my standard kit my tools would be:

• LED Flashlight
  
• Magnetic Probe
  
• Mirror Probe
  
• "Pointy" Tweezers
  
• Swiss Army Knife (Hiker)
  
• Gloves
  
• USB Endoscope
  
• Small Roll of Duct Tape
  
• Length of String
  
• Length of Wire
  
  Beyond just tools to find or retrieve a cache I have:
  
  
• Water Bottle
  
• First Aid Kit w/Bug Spray and Sunscreen
  
• Bandanna
  
• Charging cables (Micro & Mini USB)
  
• USB Battery Pack
  
• Extra AA for GPS
  
• Small Bag of Almonds
  
• Map of the Wissahickon
  
• Ear Buds / Hands Free
  
• Extra Logs
  
• Extra Baggies
  
• Assorted Bisons and Nanos
  
• Swag Pouch
  
  On my person:
  
  
• Garmin GPSMAP64s
  
• Samsung Galaxy S7 (w/Geocaching & C:geo Apps)
  
• Long Pangs
  
• Hiking Shoes
  
• Hat
  
• Sunglasses
  
  Finally, in my big bag that stays in the trunk most times:
  
  
• Reflector Vest
  
• Binoculars
  
• Large First Aid Kit
  
• Large Flashlight
  
• UV Light
  
• Compass
  
• Extra Swag
  
  My wife likes to mock me with this.
  

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-M-Pact-Covert-Tactical/dp/B005YSS0EQ

By far the best for the price.

Same thing, just camo, and I love them

For real. One time a girlfriends dad bought me some Firm Grip home depot special gloves ... I don't think I ever used them because I like my Ironclads. These are my jam - http://www.amazon.com/Ironclad-Heavy-Utility-Gloves-HUG-04-L/dp/B00004XOHB

Mechanix Wear - MultiCam M-Pact Tactical Gloves (Medium, Camouflage) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LB46F5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NhRZzbHPZNNJD

I use these tacti-cool gloves for everything, they are the best.

I would recommend anything by Mechanix. I have a pair of the original in high vis that I use on the job and when I bike. I also have a pair of their framer gloves. Personally I prefer framer gloves so I can still have the full dexterity of my bare fingers

I use some Mechanix gloves. They’re light enough that I can still use the remote with them. They’re not the greatest when it starts to get down to like under 30° but they’re better than nothing.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001VNZQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_jdnSBbE6XBHBW

Generally gloves are unnecessary at a race. If it's cold or the terrain is garbage, then maybe. However, gloves are basically required at HH and HH12HR. I'd recommend Mechanix gloves like these
https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Tactical-Original-Covert/dp/B0001VNZZU

Gentlemen of the bloody callused hand guild, I come in peace and present these gloves. I too was once a bitch-mitten hater, then I discovered the glove that works for me.

They are durable as fuck, they protect from a lot of scraping, help with grip on a greasy wrench, and still allow me to get in there and feel with my finger tips. Give them a shot!

This works for me - I find that it at very least doesn't make things worse, and provides quite a bit of relief from the itching and the pain.

Basically, I slather my hands is shea butter/sweet almond oil/any natural fatty oily bit. Then I put on cotton gloves, and go about my business for the day. Yeah, it looks a little strange in public, but people generally don't say anything. When they do mention it, I just laugh and say I have really bad eczema - they usually laugh with me and mention their sister/cousin/friend that gets it really bad too.

It's a two-part solution for me. First, it helps keep my hands moisturized - KEY for me in regards to the itching and cracking. Second, it keeps me from touching people and surfaces - When my hands are really bad, it hurts to touch other people's skin, and rough surfaces hurt as well. The gloves are a perfect physical barrier.

Even if it is too awkward to do in public, it is still a great option for around the house and while you sleep!

They are way more fantastic than any pair of paintball specific gloves I have used
http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Tactical-MultiCam-M-Pact/dp/B00LB46F5I?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I've always used Mechanix gloves:

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Original-Gloves-Large/dp/B0001VNZQY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1527190465&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=mechanix+gloves&psc=1

Good, general use gloves - it comes down to personal preference, but I like the finger coverage especially for pulling the gravel into the buckets or hauling the logs around

If you live somewhere cold, buy these three things for your car before it gets cold. I use all three of these pretty regularly half the year.

http://www.amazon.com/Kinco-Pigskin-Leather-Gloves-Weather/dp/B0026KXR0C/ref=pd_sim_lg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Q5V7HG3R7GZSFC91NYF

http://www.amazon.com/Snow-Joe-SJEG01-Scraper-Brass/dp/B00GO46L54/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1413674060&sr=1-1&keywords=brass+ice+scraper

http://www.amazon.com/Mallory-532-Snow-Brush-Colors/dp/B000BPLNXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1413674104&sr=1-1&keywords=snow+brush+car

Nope, highly recommend them though, best gloves I’ve tried link

I use gloves with leather palms like these. They work well as general purpose gloves.

Your corps doesn't provide them to you as part of tuition? Really?

If money is really tight you could try to talk to them first, they might be able to help out with something like that. I found this on Amazon - 5 pairs for 8 dollars. They don't like stretch up to gauntlet length but they do cover your wrist, and that's about the length I used.

Really though, talk to your corps staff first if buying your own is that rough on you financially.

I used these back when I was a security guard. Used them because I touched a lot of doorknobs and gates on patrol and my hands would get nasty and gross.

Weren't too hot in the summer and kept my hands warm enough in the winter, but I was still able to do things pretty much normal such as riffling through a key ring for the right key and whatnot.

The only issue I had with them is the velcro would blow out after a few months, but that's only because I was constantly taking them off and on in between patrols every hour. Don't imagine that would be an issue under normal use.

Kinco Gloves are massively popular with people who want something durable and cheap. Just rub em down with wax often to keep the water out.

Always gloves! I took a hit to my index finger and I think it cracked it. Took months to feel right again. I have a set of Mechanix M-pact. Nice and comfy, keeps my fingers warm in the cold, not too hot in the summer, and good grip. I don't feel like I'm losing any dexterity with them and they have rubber protection over the joints. My only complaint is them not working with touch screens.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MultiCam-Tactical-Camouflage/dp/B00LB46F5I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550612251&sr=8-4&keywords=mechanix+mpact+gloves

ATTGAT :P

EDIT: ATGATT....I've got a case of the Mondays :)

Here. I use these for camping and fire prep. work great.

Like everyone has said, there is no such thing as bifl gloves. I buy these quite often. There work very well and last a decent amount of time.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YPZLI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

+1 Don't use them with cutting tools.

But, these are sweet.

I've worked in the amazon affiliate business for a decade now, and I don't see an affiliate code in there (ref=sr_1_1 is not an affiliate/referral code. It's just internal amazon click tracking garbage [as are most of the other arguments] -- I believe in this case it indicates OP clicked on a internal amazon search result)

But just in case,

http://www.amazon.com/Kinco-Pigskin-Leather-Gloves-Weather/dp/B0026KXR0C/

http://www.amazon.com/Snow-Joe-SJEG01-Scraper-Brass/dp/B00GO46L54/

http://www.amazon.com/Mallory-532-Snow-Brush-Colors/dp/B000BPLNXC/

Problem solved.

For non-cold weather wear I like my Mechanix gloves for just about everything.

Mechanix FastFit Gloves. The velcro wrist strap on the regular Mechanix just gets clogged with mud/grass too easily.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LB46CM4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006WPSDXS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Here are the first things to get. Gloves, because getting shot in the fingernail and having it rib backwards f*%$ing sucks, and good eye protection. The rest is up to you.

I found that the coating flakes off fairly quickly when I use these. (commercial carpentry) I use these They're also the type of gloves my foreman was buying for the crew during framing. Good dexterity with screws but you'll need to tape your finger if you're cutting drywall. They don't take repeated friction too well.

Mechanix Wear Tactical Original Covert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001VNZUA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3RZAxbBF8RQ3N

Just buy these. Two reasons.

1. When you fight a crackhead and he starts bleeding and then he starts laughing and yelling “You’re going to get my AIDS now bitch!” then guess what? You throw the gloves away and you’re out $17.
   
   
2. I have some of those big expensive “puncture-proof” gloves. Got em as a gift. Nice gloves. Problem is, you can’t feel shit with them on and you lose a significant amount of dexterity. Do they protect my hands? Absolutely. But so would boxing gloves. That’s not what you want, and it’s not what you need.

Yeah. I've been using Mechanix for yard work and other random projects for years. The last pair lasted over two years -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001VNZUA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Been using gloves since I got my T300RS, as the rubber covered wheel was a bit too harsh on my hands compared to my old G25's leather.

In the AC official forum I got recommended this Mechanix Fastfit gloves. Inexpensive, good drip and not too warm. Good enough for sim racing.

Around June I switched to the Racequip 2 layer Nomex gloves I got for Real Life track action. Much more expensive and warm than the Mechanix ones.

Mechanix Originals always served me well.

You must. If you're one of the types that gets annoyed by bulky gloves. Try a pair of nitrile gloves. They are waterproof, breathable and you can still use your phone. Perfect for wet mornings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P4PJOVM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive always used the Brown M-Pact gloves from mecanix. They held up well in a crash and I definitely slid on my hands.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007INZVHO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501865933&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=brown+mpact&dpPl=1&dpID=51X-vZoJljL&ref=plSrch

Mechanix is always a solid choice. These are my favorites and these if you want full finger.

EDIT: Make sure you're authorized to get these types. Unless your command gives no fucks.

http://www.amazon.com/34-874-MaxiFlex-Ultimate-Nitrile-Gloves/dp/B00P4PJOWG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1457546852&sr=8-4&keywords=maxiflex

I use these for a few months at a time working in the desert, granted i'm not clearing brush or anything, just light construction. I also use them at home in my shop every day.

Everything that goes with me to the Convention Center

-AWP tool bag
-Twin point Sharpie, Pilot G2, Bic Soft feel
-Stanley 1/4-in Ratchet/Socket Set
-Mechanix FastFit gloves
-Stanley 25-ft tape measure
-PORTER-CABLE FlexTorq 34-Piece Impact Driver Bit Set
-Kobalt 10pc Metric 3/8-in Impact Socket
-Kobalt Ratcheting Screwdriver Set
-PORTER-CABLE 2-Tool 20-Volt Max Lithium Ion Brushless Cordless Combo Kit
-Kobalt 16oz Hammer
-Kobalt Utility Knife
-Gerber Suspension
-Herschel Wallet
-Yeti 64
-Nismo 370z
-Citizen Nighthawk

Those exact ones are AP branded and were gifted from an AD. They're the gloves they use to showcase pieces are their boutiques.

But you can buy cloth gloves on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Meta-U-Wholesale-White-Cotton-Lining/dp/B00KRY6IGY/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496668635&sr=8-2&keywords=cloth+gloves

I'd second /u/loansindi, the Dirty Rigger gloves are nice.

I generally have two or three pairs, depending on what exactly I'm doing - different gloves for loading cradles (as steel kills gloves fast), just cheap ones like [these] (https://www.ardmoor.co.uk/wso/images/library/hoggs-canadian-rigger-gloves.jpg?view=976); and then better made, closer fitting ones (like the Dirty Riggers) for actual flying operation.

I also like ones like these for lighter weight work, where I only need minimal protection [I typically wear these when I'm on a call bumping in flight cases, etc]. They're good for stuffing in a pocket (I also tend to cut the fingertips off for better dexterity, but that's a personal choice having assessed the risks specific to my environment).

Yeah, same setup. I have low ceilings and artsy door arches, so I do pullups on a pipe outside. Sometimes I'll wear some of those form-fitting work gloves. Nothing too thick, but something so I'm not touching the metal directly.

https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-FastFit-Gloves-Large/dp/B0001VNZDM

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-MG-72-009-Original-Coyote-Medium/dp/B0019I7XAM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1309857315&sr=8-2-spell

http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Leathercraft-125M-Handyman-Gloves/dp/B0002YPZKY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=work+gloves

These after applying some of this. Cheap, and it's what a lot of the on mountain staff use every day of the season.

Just buy Mechanix gloves: https://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MG-05-010-Original-Black/dp/B0001VNZQY

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Tactical-Original-Covert/dp/B0001VNZZU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41CfTFgB1hL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1H24SEKPY8X71GJC0MY0 we use these at stars

I use the Mechanic gloves you can get at an auto parts store. Durable and just grippy enough.

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MG-05-010-Original-Black/dp/B0001VNZQY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1459377465&sr=8-2&keywords=mechanic+gloves

Why not just get the Framer gloves? They come with the thumb, index, and middle as fingerless.

I use these for working on my cars: https://www.amazon.com/Maxiflex-34-874-Ultimate-Nitrile-Gloves/dp/B00P4PJOWG/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1541603302&sr=8-17&keywords=mechanics+grip+gloves

If I'm doing a fluid change I'll always use disposable but for any work that requires me to feel around I will use the maxiflex. If you use non-disposable for fluids you'll have to wipe them down anyway which means you're throwing away paper towels/rags.

Here you go. They are 14 bucks here.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001VNZZU/ref=twister_B001ACRWOO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

Mechanix Gloves for anyone needing to workout outside in the winter

ive found that your traditional bulky winter golves and be a hassle for small controls on your panel so i go with a pair of these http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MG-05-010-Original-Glove/dp/B0001VNZQY

decent wind/water/cut protection

Mildot Master

Mechanix Gloves

Hearing Protection

Shoot N C Targets

Ammo Box

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmw-GiW8MNg - Nutnfancy on the mechanix gloves (even if hes always long winded)

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-MG-72-009-Original-Coyote/dp/B0019I7XAM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375916120&sr=8-2&keywords=mechanix

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanix-Wear-Pact-Gloves-COYOTE/dp/B007INZVGA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1375916120&sr=8-3&keywords=mechanix

Cheaper on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Glove-WG772M-26-Inch-Nitrile/dp/B001PBEJ00

Non-mobile: these

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

+1 for Mechanix. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001VNZUA

Tried everything else before I bought some of these and I haven't looked back.

Go Kinco: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026KXR0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Oh snaaap we got the same gloves https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YPZKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure about those guys, but Sting wore Mechanix gloves during his WCW run as crow sting

They are hard to manipulate small things with, but for just general siphoning and moving around larger things - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PBEJ00/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 might consider long arm gloves

I setup a little photoshoot for you guys, the only thing bad is that I didn't have a decent camera on me today. Anyways, here is my new night parka setup. This is a pretty cheap loadout to replicate so if you want to look to see if you can replicate it, go ahead! Here is my loadout to what follows:

• Lancer Tactical Ballistic Helmet(DE)
  
• Revision Desert Locust Goggles
  
• Condor Multi-Wrap
  
• Moldable Mouth Guard
  
• Night Parka did a weird tuck in rubber band mod for the mean time
  
• Lancer Tactical JPC
  
• Custom Mini-MAP (because I can't afford GMRRR)
  
• Mechanix Gloves
  
  Gun
  
• KWA KM4 KR5
  
• Replica EoTech
  
• 4 K120's

I work in Minnesota/North Dakota. No doubt some of the shittiest weather in the country. Kinco have been the best gloves I've ever had. I buy 2 pairs every winter

Gloves! Something like these. The ramp is a nasty place

Or an armband badge holder thing since lanyards can be a pain in the ass if you're stooped over in the bins