Reddit mentions: The best screen door hardware

This is a scary situation. I would recommend involving law enforcement to the extent that you can, if you can do any more than you already have.

Besides that, first priority is perimeter hardening. Cameras may provide some deterrent but won’t protect you if someone comes for you. I know it’s a rental but maybe you could convince the landlord that these are upgrades done at your own expense. Or just don’t tell. Reinforced door jamb

Door Armor MAX - Complete Door Reinforcement Set For Jamb, Frame, Strike Plate - DIY Home Door Security - Aged Bronze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9J2FDbK66084S

Upgrade to steel door or similar if your door is not strong.

Add security film to the windows

BDF S4MC Window Film Security and Safety Clear 4 Mil (24in X 13ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRLI2PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_192FDbNYNR641

Next, I would also add a security system with door/window sensors that sets off a siren when triggered. There are many, Ring is a popular DIY currently

Ring Alarm 5 Piece Kit - Home Security System with optional 24/7 Professional Monitoring - No long-term contracts - Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7Q6CHB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rg3FDbYQSMX46

I would recommend paying for professional monitoring at least for a couple months so that it calls law enforcement for you

Next sleep with a pepper spray of your choice beside your bed. I like this one

SABRE Red Pepper Gel - Police Strength - Family, Home & Property Defense Gel with Wall Mount Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002368VJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Rp3FDbPZRWD5X

AFTER you have done these things, yes add a camera or two. Might provide some deterrent, might help you go after them if they do property damage. Wyze cams are cheap and decent. Will need an outdoor housing if installing outdoors.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3l3FDb2MGD3RM

Good luck, be safe

>I wanted to know if you could recommend a decent pick set to start off with.

I started with this set. it's not all that exciting, but it's pretty good for a first set of picks.

Mad Bob's Ghost set seems to be well regarded, but you'll have to wait a few weeks, since they make them to order. You can see a nice review of this here.

The Dangerfield Serentity set is the same kit, without the finishing and and a crappier case, but is a little cheaper. Again, review here

Another nice set is the Sparrows Tuxedo. Review here

Edit: Per this thread, the code Sparrowsbfdeal will knock $7.80 off the Tuxedo set, bringing it down to $31.20. (CAD)

Effectively anything will do, as long as it's not made of cheap crappy metal, since that'll bend on you.

>I'd also like to know if you could please tell me what those stands are called. Where you can put different tubes in and switch them out to practice on different locks. I'd also like to know if you could recommend one of those for me too.

That sounds like a practice lock stand. You can look at a pretty good selection here.

Personally, I'd buy a small vice like this, mainly because it's both cheaper and more flexible. Add in a piece of soft leather (or thick cloth) and it'll protect your lock from the jaws.

Woo! I get to pass on some of my trial and error experience..

43 is....a lot. Hope you have fun.

I used the Sarco Multi M glaze. Since I was only working with wood windows. I was told to absolutely not use the Dap glazing compound and make sure I used a linseed oil compound if I wanted the glazing to last more than a decade. I think I went through a bit more than 2 gallons for 16 windows, including 2 really intricate diamond windows and the rest 2-, 3-, and 4-light uppers and single light lowers. Get some cellophane plastic wrap to put over the putty in the containers (completely cover so that the surface is only touching plastic and no air or else it can cure in the container after a week or two of working.

It was a pain to try and make sure the glazing points were covered by glaze (so they aren't exposed and able to rust). I used the smallest ones I could find: http://www.amazon.com/Fletcher-Terry-08-111-Diamond-Point/dp/B0002YX95W . These come in stacks like brad nails and I didn't have the little gun, so I had to use pliers to separate them to use them manually. Even so, I had to sometimes go back and do a local "touch-up" around the point to cover it still.

I used this tool to push in the points, but had to take wire snipper to cut off part of the tips because the points I used were a bit smaller than it was made for and the little metal tips would hit the wood before the point was fully in.

I used a glazing tool like this one but a bit more durable (that one looks pretty flimsy). The important part for me was the bent knife end (which is sold individually as well) for laying the glaze.

Sash cord, probably 15-20 feet per window.

A paint scraper like this one is really useful for making sure you get all the glazing out of the rabbit. Putty knife is also useful, but this was way more efficient.

I installed spring bronze weather stripping in all the windows. I bought it here but it's also available at a few other places online (they were the cheapest I found). I bought the 100ft coils and cut it to size with tin snips. I estimated ~10-12ft/window (2.5-3ft per sash per side since you want it longer than the actual sash so it doesn't get ripped. Don't forget to get special nails (coppered or bronze) nails (can't use steel or else the metal to metal contact can corrode. I ended up having to pre-drill the holes because the wood along the sash jams was super fibrous and hard. See here

The parting beads will probably break when you remove the windows. You can rip your own with a table saw. Just use a hard wood that is pretty weather resistant like mahogany or something similar (since they shouldn't be painted).

I gave all the windows a complete rub down with linseed oil because they were really old and dry. This is also important because if you don't rub down with oil or prime the window before glazing, the wood will suck the oil out of the compound and it will dry out and crack.

I think the only thing I did that isn't always done (but should be) is putting a bed of glazing under the glass, then putting the glass on, then the glazing points, clearing the glazing that was pushed out when the glass was installed, then the putty over the surface of the glass. This way, the glazing cushions the glass a bit and it also provides a complete seal with compound around the glass.

I think one of the most difficult parts was getting the windows out because the screws had been painted over so many times. It's worth mentioning that this was all somewhat dirty. I did this while other work was being done at the house and while we weren't living there (there's always a lead paint concern with old houses).

If you're in the Boston area, I found a guy who stripped the paint for all of them at an incredibly reasonable rate. He did a really nice job and removed most of the putty for me as well.

Learn from my mistake: be careful when your windows are all glazed, painted, and you're rehanging them. I was using a drill to speed up installing the inner stops. It kicked up, slipped a little, and the handle shattered one of the panes. My neighbors must have heard me cursing...

I referenced:
-this post from TOH: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,640019,00.html
-this post as well: http://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-reglaze-old-windows/ The video there is really excellent as well.
-John Leeke really cares about old wood windows: http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/index.htm
and a couple blog posts from a series I can't find now

Happy to answer other questions if you have any (worth noting that I'm not an expert). I did bounce a lot of what I did above off the contractors who were working on my house, though, so there was some expert knowledge going into it.

I live alone in Chicago, in a two-flat with one neighbor above me. I live on the north side but I'm right by Humboldt Park, it can seem less safe than some of the other neighborhoods. We have a security door before getting to my door, but it could be easily kicked in. Literally, sometimes my front door just opens up..if I don't lock my top lock, multiple times my neighbor has called my name like "your front door is open." Nevertheless, I'm not too scared of living alone, mostly because I thrive so much as a person who lives by myself.

For some of the ladies who may not be able to afford just living in a nicer (read: gentrified) neighborhood & isn't a dog person...here's what I do.

​

I take some extra measures to ensure I keep myself safe...piece of mind, ya know:

-My doors are locked at all times, even when I'm in the house.

-I made friends with all of my neighbors, especially the guy who lives upstairs...he checks on me from time to time, has heard me scream out of something very non-threatening and came down to check.

-I have a metal baseball bat right by my bed (like $18)

-I just got a doorknob jammer that's supposed to not be able to be kicked in, haven't installed yet but $19 - https://www.amazon.com/Securityman-Adjustable-Jammer-Sliding-Security/dp/B077X5HY7X/ref=sr_1_15?crid=16ZTTE1VZNAE4&keywords=front+door+security+bar&qid=1563477497&s=gateway&sprefix=front+door+secuir%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-15#customerReviews

-I've met a majority of the cops within my area. I'll bake them cakes from time to time, the closest station is less than a mile away...this is so unnecessary but I love to bake and it gives me peace...can't confirm they would get to my place any faster if anything happens.

​

)

YES - my son is a climber, a runner, and loves to get into everything. Babyproofing made my life so much calmer. Here's some of my favorite finds.

Door Monkey - fits on standard (not beveled) door frames, installs in 1 second, and works fantastic as both a pinch guard and to prevent entry/exit. Its also nice on bedroom doors which have locks on them, as I'd get locked out of multiple rooms otherwise as my son knows how to activate those locks.

flip lock - for the front door, as my kid figured out how to move a chair to the front door and unlock it and get outside. Easy to install high up, looks nice, cheap, and is easy to work.

Baby fence - put this around the stuff you want to keep baby out of! Things such as entertainment centers and computer desks can be surrounded by this fence.

magnetic locks - for those drawers that you don't want any possible entry into, i.e. drawers with money. Very solid lock.

Latches - for things that can't be drilled into/that you don't want to drill into. You can lock the bottom drawer of the stove, the dishwasher, regular drawers, etc with this. Easy to install; I don't know how easy to remove.

> Closing on my first home on Friday. Super pumped.

First off, congrats!

> what are the suggestions for lighting around the house?

If a specific side has no windows from a well used room then I would recommend motion lights on a switch, that way you can still turn them off or on if getting bad readings, like animals, etc.

Lights on just timers is also a nice thing to have, but not necessary.

> Upgrading deadbolts/locks/doors in general.

Is this a bad neighborhood? Or are you just over worried? I like Kwikset as they are super easy to key with existing kwikset locks.

> How about reinforcing the door frame?

Are there specific door frames that are weakened? Anyways, i've used similar plates to THIS


> Are gutters easy to DIY install?

If the house is smaller then it isn't too terrible, but if the home is long on a specific side then I would recommend a company and seamless guttering. Along with that you can bury drain pipe from the guttering or yes install a french drain. Not much difference except the french drain utilizes perforated pipe and gravel/fabric. So its install is a bit more tedious, but if the drainage/slope outside isn't great then it might be necessary. Pictures help here a ton.

Actual bullet-proof glass is expensive and probably has to be professionally installed. Even so, bullets will still go through exterior walls and drywall quite easily.

My first suggestion if you truly fear for your family's safety is to move. I know you said the property has been in the family for a very long time, but you should ask yourself it the property is worth a family member dying - if that's what you really think would happen if you stayed.

My second suggestion if you can't afford the stiff bill for the bulletproof glass - is to add some basic fortification to the home to prevent unauthorized entry. A door jamb reinforcement kit and some window security film will go a long way for preventing access to anyone trying to break in. A firearm (or a few) is a must if allowed in your jurisdiction. Just make sure everyone gets some safety training if they're not familiar with guns. Another thing to look into is a monitored alarm. Dogs are also great deterrents and alerts.

My point here is, it's much more effective use of your money fortifying and securing your home than it is to try to make it bulletproof. Unless you are very wealthy, that is going to break the bank. Go browsing around the subreddit and read some wiki articles to get more ideas on fortification and what other people have done.

I've come into this late and don't know if anyone's suggested these things yet, but just in case they haven't been I'll go ahead.

I'm glad to hear you've called the police and that they'll be patrolling your area more. In the meantime, you can buy a door brace to ensure your door stays shut while you're home, and pepper spray to keep by your bed. I would also recommend purchasing a pepper spray to keep on your key ring so that you have something on your when you are walking to and from your car.

You could also buy a taser gun, but I have no personal experience with them and could not vouch for them personally like I can for a door jam and pepper spray.

I'm sorry you're going through this. It's really scary to not feel safe, especially in your home, which should be a source of comfort for you. Take steps to make yourself feel better protected, and continue to call the police if anything else occurs. Do NOT hesitate to call them. I hope this situation gets taken care of quickly for you.

I’m no expert, but I have these items and they make me feel a little safer. They’re well reviewed and won’t break the bank. Not sure how management will feel about installing hardware if it’s a rental but they may allow it given that someone broke in.

door armor - amazon

window locks - amazon

Additionally, your local police department may run safety seminars about how to secure your home against this sort of thing. Mine does.

And of course Wyze cams which may be good for your peace of mind, $25 each. Be safe.

Awesome! I would love to see some pics after you build it! I also recommend these for the frame, made it super easy and solid as a rock! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003F0DZZ4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does your apparent door open to an inside common area like a lobby or hallway?

http://codes.ohio.gov/orc/3781.103

3781.103 Deadbolt locks or equivalent security locking device for swinging exit doors.
The Ohio board of building standards shall adopt, pursuant to division (A) of section 3781.10 of the Revised Code, a rule requiring that the swinging exit door for each unit in an apartment building or other multi-unit dwelling that is subject to the rules authorized by division (A) of such section be equipped with a deadbolt or equivalent security locking device complying with standards prescribed by the board. The rule shall be applied to all such apartment buildings and other multi-unit dwellings for which plans are approved pursuant to section 3791.04 of the Revised Code.

Effective Date: 09-05-1975.

This only applies to the swinging exit door from the lobby to the outside world.

There is nothing that pertains to individual apartment doors.

Personally, we use these even though we have deadbolts.

Good luck!

If you can't move arm your self and get security cameras. Please look into something like this for your door

Visit r/wyze and r/homedefense post this on home defense there are people that are more knowledgeable than me on there that can point you in the right direction. I am beyond glad you and your child are safe and I am also so sorry you had to go through something like that. you are an amazing mother and your survival skills are a testament to it.

Something like this sliding plate wall mount (but smaller) would work really well.

Then you could use command strips to attach the mounting bracket to the wall in both rooms and easily slide the station on in either of the two locations.

I can't find anything similar but smaller unfortunately.

Edit 1: This type of faster is called a 'keyhole hanger'. I haven't found quite the perfect thing, but I'll keep an eye out.

Edit 2: One of these or these might do the trick. You'd have to mount on the side of the base station, but it'd be pretty secure and easily swap-able!

Edit 3: Ahah! These seem about as close as it's going to get.

Depends on if there's an easy way to climb up to your windows.

Something like this would be ideal for a door, but make sure there's enough clearance to install it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/

If there's not enough clearance, then something like this could be your next best bet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RI7OQ0/

>(thank goodness with my big dog)

Good puppy.

>He is lucky he was a) not shot and b) not mauled.

Yes. Yes he is.

I can only give practical advice and someone else will come along with possibilities shortly. A cheap way to get some piece of mind? (I have a front door that will only lock the deadbolt with some begging and pleading and some kind of secret handshake that I haven't learned) Get a door brace until you can get a locksmith out to fix your deadbolt. There are a bunch available. You can probably find one at a local hardware store. I'm not recommending this one specifically - I'm just starting with search terms and ideas that may help you sleep.

You can call a locksmith and have them fight with your deadbolt. It may be an easy fix.

There are several people on here who are police officers who will probably tell you that if they know all they need to know they won't put you through a really in-depth interview.

There are also self defense classes available and if you call the local police department and tell them who you are and what happened they may have some other ideas/resources as well.

Hug your puppy for us and I'm sorry this happened to you.

>There is no legal precedent on how the room must be constructed that I'm aware of, but common sense dictates that you go to reasonable lengths to make it difficult to break into. That would include an exterior door (solid core and steel doors would suffice) and a dead bolt at minimum. I would also recommend reinforcing the door frame.

Thank you, this is exactly what I'm looking for, I'm going with a steel door, with a proper deadbolt with something like https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01GWF2R70/ref=pd_aw_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GGV9M5HB2RYXMYAECK7D&dpPl=1&dpID=51N7tq2kyNL with the plaster reinforced with plywood.


>
>If the room is a safe, it could be argued that you could store loose ammo in the same room as the firearms but IANAL. To answer your question, though, yes the ammo can be put into a locked safe, cabinet, or ammo can inside the room.

I kind of figured, but since I'll have an empty safe, better safe than sorry.

We installed this screen on the outside of the screen door and it’s thin enough that it doesn’t interfere with the outer door closing. We opted for the outside because we didn’t want nails getting caught on it it they pawed at the door. Our dogs don’t test it thankfully but we feel better knowing they can’t just tear through it. Good luck!

It looks like they are pretty easily available from Amazon US for under five bucks

Prime-Line Products SP 9609 Spring, Extension, 7/16-Inch by 2-Inch - .062 Diameter,(Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RG5CHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dAg7Bb003TS1W

If you can’t figure out another solution send me a private message and I would be happy to buy a couple and then send them up to you

Have they been breaking in one particular way? If so, maybe we could help prepare for their preferred way.

I always highly recommend hardening your home. It helps that you are in the second floor, that means they are less likely to target your windows (unless there is access to your windows). So, let's focus on the door. Doors (and their frames) are often quite vulnerable.

If your door doesn't have a deadbolt, get one and use it! A deadbolt is much, much stronger than the lock on the knob, but it doesn't do anything for you if you don't lock the deadbolt. It is slightly less convenient because you have to use a key to lock it when you leave, but the extra security far outweighs the slight inconvenience. Use your deadbolt.

You may be limited in what the landlord allows you to do, but I'd suggest you do some version of the following to reinforce the door. You can get a door reinforcement kit like this or this (I've sometimes seen the prime-line kit for sale at HD or Lowes for more like $25). These will reinforce the weak door frame and make it much harder to kick in the door. If that is too big of a change, maybe you'd be allowed to replace the strike plate with one like this. That would be a good step up from a standard strike plate. If you aren't allowed to do any of those, at a minimum you should replace the short screws that your strike plate and hinges likely have now, with longer screws (3-4 inch screws are good). The longer screws will anchor the strike plate not only to the weak door frame, but to the strong 2x4 structure behind the frame too. Also a few of those long screws on the hinge side of the door; stock hinge screws are often too short for good security too.

Reinforcing the door will make it much harder to kick in, so they will probably move on to a softer target. It would also take longer and make more noise, giving you more time to call for help, arm yourself, or escape.

If their preferred method is not to kick in the door, but to attack the lock (using a bump key or lock picks), I'd suggest switching to a high security lock like a medeco or assa/abloy. If you can't afford that, then a lock that uses a non-standard key would at least help some. Kwikset KW1 and Schlage SC1 are the most common keys, so those would be the most common bump keys carried by thieves. Getting a lock that doesn't use either of those would at least make them less likely to have the proper key handy.

What I wrote above can help keep people out; that is most important in my opinion. After that, some sort of alarm may make an intruder want to leave more quickly, or also give you extra warning.

Edit: I just wanted to add that many companies use the KW1 and SC1 keys, not just kwikset and schlage. So if you want a less common key, you have to do your due diligence to know what key it uses. For example, I think Baldwin uses either a KW1 or SC1; also, i think Defiant uses a KW1. And definitely avoid anything that uses Kwikset's "Smart Key". The Smart Key locks are just weak junk.

I don’t have any advice for dealing with MIL, but if you are worried about them trying to break in while you are home, there are some fairly inexpensive products you can buy.
You can get door bars and window locks. They make special door bars for sliders too if you have that kind of door in your home. Hope this helps and good luck to you.

Aren’t these it?

retainer clips

There are a few variations of it in the bottom but it seems like a pretty good match

Glad she kept her wits and is ok. She might think about installing this product on her doors. It’s for outside doors. I installed this on my house. NOBODY is getting inside my house. It comes in different colors to match any door. They are a bit pricey but work awesome.
Door Armor MAX – Complete Door Reinforcement Set in Satin Nickel — Door Security by Armor Concepts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ccl.zbPEB4YYJ

> Get a metal or solid-wood (not hollow core normal) door, preferably metal.

Those are both good choices. However, fiberglass doors will absorb some of the energy, and bounce it back at the offender if kicked, are more resistant to dings (in my experience), and can be easily patched. Down side is that they don't work with the magnetic trim seals.

Renforce both sides:
Door
and
Frame

Edit: I did my first door in less than 4 hours with a friend helping. Re-trimming/painting took another couple hours. We were both handy, but not experienced at the time. Just make sure you buy the whole door/frame combo, and the right depth (for 2x4 or 2x6 framing). And don't try to be too gentle removing the trim. Just count on replacing it too.

I found these brackets to use for the side rails. There's a little thinking involved to get them right, but seem easy enough.

For the center support I just found some 2x4 bracket things at the hardware store. I'll screw them into the head and foot boards, then the 2x4 slides right in, so it's easy to disassemble and move. Looks a little tacky but once the mattress is on nobody will see it!

My next hurdle is to get the lumber. Haven't sourced anything yet, going in to a local place in the next few days just to see what's available. Hopefully they'll have stuff in the dimensions I need; don't have a table saw. Otherwise I'll have to figure something out there.

• Lock the doors (such a basic thing but so many skip)
  
• deadbolt on the doors
  
• back door with a huge window where you could reach the door locks if you broke or removed the window (apartment so can’t change) also has a metal door “lock” flap that stops the door from opening (I’ve been locked out once thanks to this)
  
• always look out the window &/or peephole before opening the door even if no one is there just so you know you’re not walking into something or so someone doesn’t see you leave everyday for work at the same time.
  
• close & lock windows unless I’m in the room. Never an opening out of my sight.
  
• windows also have metal dowels so they can’t be opened without breaking
  
• metal bar & added window lock in the patio sliding door
  
• LIGHTS like timed porch lights, timed indoor lights that go on & off at different times every day (in my living room, I’ll be sleeping in the bedroom so living room can turn on & off, who cares?). I also have a solar light in a planter pointed at my front door because the landlords are slow to replace the porch light
  
• thick curtains on all windows & in the bathroom those window stickers that obscure so no one sees inside unless I want them to
  
• phone charged &/or pre-charged charger & working cable at all times. Also my Apple Watch on me.
  
• a baseball bat & super bright strobing flashlight next to my bed. Honestly the flashlight would do more damage & disorientation than the bat but the bat helped me sleep when I first lived alone 7 years ago
  
• praying. Helps me 90% of the time.
  
  I also own one of those alarm door stops but haven’t used it yet.

Years ago, these were common in front doors with mail slots:

https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Brass-Mail-Plates-Antique/dp/B005TVVJ1E

They pretty much stop someone from reaching in with their hand.

They were then upgraded to a chute:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GX0TEA

The latest and greatest is a full on box:

https://www.amazon.com/DuraBox-Through-Door-Locking-D500/dp/B00YG96QB8

All could be retrofitted without replacing the door.

-Hedgie came from a great breeder
http://www.welovehedgehogs.com/index.html

-KALLAX Shelving unit, high gloss white
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20305745/

-Stanley Hardware 40-3426 1/4" X 6' Plastic Track in White Coated
by Stanley Hardware Link: http://amzn.com/B000NHLJE6

-SUPERNIGHT 5-Meter Waterproof Flexible Color Changing RGB SMD5050 300 LEDs Light Strip Kit with 44 Key Remote and 12V 5A Power Supply
by SUPERNIGHT Link: http://amzn.com/B00ASHQQKI

-Prime-Line Products 191928 Self-Adhesive Medicine Cabinet Pull, Clear, 2-Pack
by Prime-Line Products Link: http://amzn.com/B002YGNDAW

-Coroplast Model # CP4896S Internet # 205351385 Store SKU # 1000118572 48 in. x 96 in. x 0.157 in. White Corrugated Plastic Sheet
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Coroplast-48-in-x-96-in-x-0-157-in-White-Corrugated-Plastic-Sheet-CP4896S/205351385

-Model # 80077-ZWS77CM1 Internet # 202081502 Store SKU # 748867 1-1/4 in. x 2 in. x 84 in. Vinyl Brick Moulding Set (3-Pieces)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-4-in-x-2-in-x-84-in-Vinyl-Brick-Moulding-Set-3-Pieces-80077-ZWS77CM1/202081502

-Veranda HP Model # H120AWS6 Internet # 205309788 Store SKU # 1000052907 1/2 in. x 48 in. x 8 ft. White PVC Trim
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-HP-1-2-in-x-48-in-x-8-ft-White-PVC-Trim-H120AWS6/205309788

-DAP Model # 00688 Internet # 100128841 Store SKU # 686064 2.8 oz. Silicone Aquarium Sealant
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-2-8-oz-Silicone-Aquarium-Sealant-00688/100128841

-One Day Glass - Peninsula Glass Company
https://www.onedayglass.com/
Type: Tempered Glass
Shape: Square/Rectangle
Thickness: 1/4"
Tint: Clear
Edgework: Flat Polish (a,b,c,d)
Width: 28"
Height: 11 1/16"

This is a great idea, nicely done! I also made a mod to mine, putting some sheet-metal edging on the top around the rim. I found that the thin edge on the top ring of the basket was slowly but surely eating my putters.

Something like this to start If you aren't home, a cable lock takes seconds to defeat and your firearm is stolen. Get good locks and door armor and most break ins won't happen.

These are easy to install with a drill and impact driver which you can rent or borrow those easy enough. While you have the drill I would suggest some sort of remote storage security camera(s) covering doors and windows that have external access.

As for firearm suggestions, AR15 easy peasy. Ground Zero is cheap. You can get a Ruger or S&W for close to the same price too.

>Are you talking about venting a window unit through the floor, or a standalone unit's hose through the floor?

The latter, standalone portable unit's hose through floor.

>though a lot of hotels and commercial properties utilize a sleeve through the wall to run a window unit, and years ago, I did see a van build with such a sleeve that was simply vented to outside.

What do you mean by sleeve? You mean a 1' by 2' hole in the wall that the wall unit sits through like in most apartments?

If that's what you're talking about, I wouldn't call it a sleeve. Just a giant hole.

I thought this was a sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Portable-Sliding-Glass-Door/dp/B072X5434T

I thought of this as a possiblilty too, but have one made or find one that would fit a car window. It would at least make it easy to take off whenever you needed to be more steathy. Just roll down the window.

>I would say it should be fine to vent the hot exhaust through the floor, but I'd draw in fresh air somehow and actively blow it across the hot side of the unit since heat rises, and otherwise it would trap that heat in the vent.

Sorry I'm not quite catching what you're saying. You mean underneath where the exhaust is coming out? You're talking to someone who knows nothing about how heat or air transfer work.

I put an old school bar barricade on all my back doors. 2 of my neighbors have already gotten their doors kicked in this season. All home owners should do something to make their doors more secure. Metal door frame reinforcements will be added to my front door.

I love summer in Baltimore!

The install was quick and easy. I have a solid wood door that I didn’t want to get rid of and is oversized. Short of buying a custom metal door and metal frame for the door, I thought it was the best bet to reinforce the door.

Ah, sorry seems like I remembered wrong or the price went up since I bought it: https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70

These are options as well.

Door Armor MAX – Complete Door Reinforcement Set in Satin Nickel — Door Security by Armor Concepts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DycVAb8SY33RQ


As another reddit user mentioned, longer screws improve the lock's security.

Definitely. These are the ones I put in.

And for my front door, which is 3/4 window, I put in a high security dead-bolt (AssaAbloy Protec2) with a locking thumb-turn. So even if someone smashes through the glass they can't unlock the deadbolt. The key is out of reach. They'd have to climb through.

The camera above the front door would likely discourage anyone from wanting to even try that. Or at least that's my hope. =P

These are great too. I was skeptical until I watched a video. Definitely worth the money.

Taken from u/ttchoubs from the original post. You can buy your own kit to protect your door like this Ü:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fDnJDb6NGQW9A?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

I'd also like to add "Door Armor" to the list. I like knowing that my home is at least a little more secure while I'm away.

Need to get a steel door frame and/or a burglar bar for when you are at home.

https://www.amazon.com/Securityman-Adjustable-Jammer-Sliding-Security/dp/B077X5HY7X/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541065459&sr=8-5&keywords=burglar+bar

Also, make sure it is at a slight angle and not sticking way out from the door. The way these work is by making all the force of someone kicking/ramming in the door, go up into the top of the door frame. Some people put these on with waaay too much of a slant.

Also, two things to look for in a good lock are at least 6 pins, and they should be anti-pick pins.

Depends on how the door is constructed.

For example, typically window screens and held in by basically jamming a round bit of plastic into the hollow frame, which keep the screen from moving by jamming it into place. Fixing a problem like that literally just means getting a $5 tool and rolling the plastic back in.

But the screen door? depends on how it's done. Is the screen fused to the door? Does it go into a track/recess like window screens usually do? Definitely need a picture.

You could also look into edge trim.
here is an example: Edge Trim - Amaazon
Most of these are very flexible and can be shaped to cover the nubs that are above the bar.


Edit: For clarity - 1 4-6 inch piece in an arc over each intersection of points.
Edit 2: or a solid piece.

I got this for my door and love it. The key to immediately upgrading door strength is longer screws. This comes with 3-4 in screws and a lot more

This is probably the best option. As the other guy states tho remember drywall is not that hard to break. However I think instead of breaking a hole in the wall I would have shut the power to her room off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=asc_df_B00E9ZGWH25447553/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00E9ZGWH2&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194883046452&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8590878167858146609&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023683&hvtargid=pla-314702811283

I was researching home security last night and many suggested this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495629763&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=door+reinforcement&dpPl=1&dpID=210HW-olbnL&ref=plSrch

I think that's what they are referring to. One of the reviews has a video to better see.

I assume you mean this. The reviews are mixed. Some say it's great, others say that it has some serious flaws.

If I lived in a place where I felt I needed that, I'd rather upgrade to solid wood doors and replace all the hardware to reinforce it better, get an alarm system, a dog, a gun and maybe a solid wood door with deadbolts on the bedroom (just as a second layer of protection) before getting that thing.

Our toddler did the same, these are amazing and now on every door!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LR1YA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q.KNDbTD1E9EK

Well, hardening the door or sticking up an ADT sticker are quick/easy solutions. As are things like outdoor lighting, lights inside on timers (looks like someone's home), and the like.

If you're looking more for lifetime companionship, doggos are the best though. Cats just sleep through intruders and wait to eat the flesh off your face when you're dead. Sneaky little fuckers.

you can reinforce a door jam pretty cheaply:

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ

that would assume a solid door, not hollow core that could be kicked in

just buy one of these. not sure where you live but it's the kind of thing they carry at walmart, hopefully open 24 hrs near you.

I had a similar issue. I had to get one of these to pull the door towards the weather stripping. It works like a dream.

Prime-Line Products U 9488 Adjustable Door Strike, Chrome Plated, 2-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K39BM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W.r5xbSVN4CMK

Has anyone tried anything like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-9488-Adjustable-2-Piece/dp/B00D2K39BM?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

This won't do fucking shit.

Source: I had a teenager kick my door open a couple years ago. Here is what is left of my 2X6 door jamb after the kick. Pulled the 4" screws clean out and cracked the stud.

If you want some real protection against someone kicking open your door you need one of these or these

> can be defeated with a screwdriver? jfc. I'd best be doing some research on worthwhile upgrades.

yup. but the weak link is the door jamb something like this will delay a break in but nothing stops a determined thief.
https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70

Maybe you could find some rubber edge protection?

Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Black-large-height-0-656-Height-0-178/dp/B00BFWUZ2K

And reinforce the frame with something like this.

Looks like a tool for repairing window screens

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-7503-Screen-Rolling-Wheels/dp/B002YGOGHG/

Links:

Deadbolt Flip Guard

Door Armor

Defender Security Door Reinforcement Locks

In case anyone is curious here is a priced out list from the tutorial

4x8 Foot sheet of 3/4 Melamine 38.18$

Vents 8"x16" 2.10 each

3" Circle Vents 12.20 for a four pack

Liquid Nails 2.52

Caulk 4.81

Plexi-Glass 24x48 .236 57.98(seems expensive)

White Iron On Melamine 5.47

Finishing Nails 1 1/2" 3.47


Stanley track 14.81$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NHLJE6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


All in all, it runs me about 140-150$ which is what the tutorial says.

If your lease doesn't allow you to make the change to the locks yourself, consider adding a secondary means to secure your door such as one of these

We put this on our front door to keep the toddler from opening it on her own. It's been working well, though it can be a bit sticky at times for the adults if you're not familiar with how to work it.

First, I'd put away any of your fragile and expensive collectibles. Put them on a high shelf or see if you can keep them at a trusted friend's house.

Try to get a latch for your door or a door knob cover.

As far as babysitting, if you just do a crappy job, they won't ask you to do it (hopefully). If they leave you with them, call the parents constantly and ask dumb questions about childcare.

• "What do you mean I'm supposed to put a clean diaper on the baby instead of leaving it naked in the crib?"
  
  
• "What do you mean the small kid wasn't supposed to have candy for dinner?"
  
  
• "What do you mean I wasn't supposed to invite over my friend with a criminal record?"
  
  Better yet, leave the house as soon as the parents start heading for the door.

Flip lock for top of the door:

Prime-Line Products U 9888 Flip Action Steel Door Lock, White Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LR1YA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L.fMybQ334BF9

Sticky lock thing:

Munchkin Xtraguard Dual Action Multi Use Latches, 2 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A2ZSZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cbgMybVRQX2X2

Get something like this - and hide it when you're not there.

Door Brace. You can probably find one cheaper, or make one; this is just what I pulled up on Amazon really quick.

Also, get a door reinforcement kit and install it. It may not of worked in this situation because of the door being glass and being able to break through and unlock it. For solid doors though, it's a must.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/?coliid=IF6QL3VTJQ3W9&colid=3NSRF2ZKY726V&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Here's a kit if you want your door to do this too.

Handles - https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-191928-Self-Adhesive-Medicine/dp/B002YGNDAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474411441&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+door+pull+adhesive

Glass - FYI for tempered glass you need to have it sized before tempering, you're asking for custom cut tempered glass, its gonna cost. if you go with non tempered most hardware stores sell small panes, and scoring tools (just wear cut resistant gloves and long sleeves when breaking) Wet sand the edges and its fine. Another option is acrylic.

There are so many types, here are some:

http://www.amazon.com/No-Mortise-Bed-Rail-Fittings-Set/dp/B003F0DZZ4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S7FT7E3DJJ5132V1ZKZ

http://www.amazon.com/Surface-Mount-Rail-Brackets-Complete/dp/B001DT3SLU/ref=pd_sim_hi_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S7FT7E3DJJ5132V1ZKZ

http://www.amazon.com/Locking-Safety-Rail-Brackets-Full/dp/B001DSZWN8/ref=pd_sim_hi_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S7FT7E3DJJ5132V1ZKZ

http://www.amazon.com/Galvanized-Steel-Bed-Rail-Fasteners/dp/B001DSZGCU/ref=pd_sim_hi_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S7FT7E3DJJ5132V1ZKZ

http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size

http://www.rockler.com/locking-safety-bed-rail-brackets

http://www.rockler.com/surface-mounted-keyhole-bed-rail-brackets

http://www.rockler.com/5-surface-mounted-bed-rail-brackets

http://www.rockler.com/surface-mount-bed-rail-brackets

Just browse the related items or use those keywords to run a Google search.

Also, I'm plugging /r/woodworking

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70

added to all exterior doors

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541648248&sr=sr-1&keywords=door+reinforcement

This may be a bit overkill, and you could find door reinforcements on a smaller scale, but after reading that most home invaders kick in your door to get in I figured why not.

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=asc_df_B00E9ZGWNQ/

or get a lock for $2

I use the thing! http://www.amazon.com/Mace-80115-MACE-Jammer-Brace/dp/B0009V2LU2

I use this. $500 guarantee if your door gets kicked in

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B01GWF2R70

hinge pins here

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T4WMZJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Install reinforcement plates on all your outer doors:
  Door Armor

How does it attach to the rails? I have a bed that uses these that squeaked pretty bad. I oiled them and that helped significantly.

Also, reinforce your frame with a long strike plate like this.

Don't install a chain door lock. There are other, non-installation-style, door stops that can be used indoors, like this for instance.

I'm not sure if what you're talking about is different but the door jamb reinforcement I'm talking about does the same thing. No contractor needed. Here's an example

Door Armor MAX - Complete Door Reinforcement Set For Jamb, Frame, Strike Plate - DIY Home Door Security - Satin Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HYWDDbNE9F40S

Those rubber door stops are okay but really are for holding doors open. An actual door-jammer though...that'll stop the door from being opened and it won't cause any damage on your part. They'd literally have to kick the door in or take it off the hinges.

What is weak about your door?

Think about getting something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We used these with my mother.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LR1YA6

Put it near the top of the door and the door will not open. The metal is light-weight enough that you could force it open in an emergency.

These are door braces that you put underneath the door handle and set in place.

Get a couple when you're going on vacation, and some door stoppers too. It'll make you a harder target, and buy you more time.

And the next time you're down in Cancun, buy a dinky-little tourist machete. The next guys that try to force their fingers in, well... you can slice them off. Their screams of pain should be loud enough to alert security.

There's no angled bracing, looks like it might be prone to racking (i.e., if you push hard enough at the top, the top will slide over but the bottom stays put and the whole thing accordions down). Hopefully the fasteners in those 1x6's are far enough apart to provide resistance to shear stresses. And disassembly for moving will be a hassle; repeated removal and re-driving of those screws will compromise their utility. I'd have used these so that the head and foot frames were separate units and the mattress frames slot into place.

No, I actually ended up using these brackets to attach the rails to the head and footboards. I didn't want them to be attached directly or permanently.

A chair proped up against the entry door, the back wedged up, under the door handle will prevent anyone from entering the apartment. If the legs on the chair slide, put a rubber-backed bathroom rug under the chair. And it is not altering anything in the apartment (ie replacing or adding locks, installing alarms) that would possibly threaten the lease restrictions.

Or you can spend $13-$22 to buy a specific Door Jam that can be used on any door, anywhere you happen to be, as long as there's a door handle of some sort.

Get a privacy latch that can only be locked / unlocked from the inside.

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-9888-Flip-Action-Door/dp/B001LR1YA6/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=privacy+lock&qid=1565019113&s=gateway&sr=8-9

These attach to the inside edge of the frame. If the apartment management complains tell them their people need to knock and ask permission to enter.

That's problematic because it's installing a fixture, which may be an issue at the conclusion of the lease. Chains are kind of pointless anyway as they are easily broken.

A solid non-permanent option is a security stick.

No no, I mean a literal bar as the lock:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077X5HY7X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ctyGDb46KZF5K

My first recommendation will always be to get a gun an training, however if you're not comfortable with that (as you stated in another comment) then that's ok too. The worst thing you can do is buy a gun you're not going to use that can potentially be used against you. Regardless of what some other clueless users may state, the sound alone will NOT scare off an intruder

So, given that, it sounds in your situation like your only reasonable point of entry is the front door, so beef it up.


As another user stated you can get a better deadbolt and it doesn't have to break the bank. Just do your homework, get a grade I lock, and stay away from your cheaper locks (pretty much anything made by kwikset).

In addition, the door reinforcement kit is a good option as most break-ins tend to simply be kicking the door in. What actually happens in this situation is that the force of the kick is actually driving your metal deadbolt through the wooden frame of the door, splintering the frame. A reinforcement kit and longer screws (a good 3" wood screw ought to do it) will help mitigate this risk.


Hope this helps

That's so the tenant doesn't complain about not having their preferred type of lock (usually bar/chain, knob, and dead bolt), not because it makes the door significantly more secure.

If you want a really secure door you need to reinforce the area around the door knob + deadbolt and use one of the long striker plate + dead bolt plates that screws throughout a significant portion of the door jamb. More locks doesn't help significantly.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=pd_sbs_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01GWF2R70&pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&pd_rd_w=XrLDN&pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&th=1 and this https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10539-Reinforcer-Stainless/dp/B006GDULOK/ref=pd_sbs_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006GDULOK&pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&pd_rd_w=XrLDN&pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&psc=1&refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&tag=electronicfro-20&dpID=31nHV6bQZ9L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail .

or if you're not wanting to spend quite that much https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-10385-Strike-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D2K33NG&pd_rd_r=V5PE4T17CV9YT4814EJT&pd_rd_w=jqrLM&pd_rd_wg=96nb6&psc=1&refRID=V5PE4T17CV9YT4814EJT&tag=electronicfro-20&dpID=31AjDUX1GIL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail and https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10539-Reinforcer-Stainless/dp/B006GDULOK/ref=pd_sbs_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006GDULOK&pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&pd_rd_w=XrLDN&pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&psc=1&refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&tag=electronicfro-20&dpID=31nHV6bQZ9L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

If you have a solid door you can make it prohibitive to break just with the longer striker plate and screws that reach deep into the 2x4s on the other side of the jamb.

The way the frame is attached is very weak and trivial to defeat.

Most door reinforcement kits will make the jam much more resistant to kicking.

Samples:
https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ
https://www.asafehome.net/PAGES/Safe-Homes-International-StrikeMaster-II-Pro.html

Also, "hammer head deadbolts" hold on to the frame so that they are much harder to kick in. They push two ball bearings into the strike plate hardware in order to grab on to the frame:
https://www.mul-t-lock-online.com/store/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=6

Goes over door security in far more detail than you want:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YYvBLAF4T8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4YYvBLAF4T8

get a door hardening kit. You want one that will replace the hinge screws with atleast 3in long screws, a metal bracket to wrap around the door where your locks are to prevent splitting, and a long metal bar on the frame of the door with long screws. Here's what i put on my doors:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_dNu5xbKJXZD15

You can also replace all your locks with higher security locks, don't get electronic locks as they have a bad history. If you want to make things a big pain in the ass for an intruder replace deadbolts with double cylinder deadbolts. That forces anyone who breaks in to go out the same way they came in as they cant unlock your doors. Came in a window? They're going back out the window.

Edit: there is also this, which looks pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_PZu5xb0DVAH4F

But really, a properly hardened door will be very hard to kick in and will give you plenty of time to react.

Something like this would be useful for distributing the force of impact over a larger area, and doesn't require heavy renovating to install.

Otherwise, one thing to keep in mind is that most modern modular homes have incredibly shitty pre framed doors.

The actual frame is completely separate from the house, only connected by a few screws here and there.

A good countersunk lagbolt every foot would resolve that problem pretty well. Because otherwise that shitty 3/4" pine is gonna shatter and shear right away... Or it's possible that the crappy screws will shear first, and your door will accompany your frame on its way to the floor. Lagbolts motherfucker, use em.

also don't use security devices that cannot be deactivated easily and quickly from the inside when trying to escape a building. They shouldn't be difficult to use in a fire nor unable to deactivate from the outside if a kid were to activate it from the inside while you are outside,, and never use a chain/swinging/sliding lock for securely opening a door part way which can be broken and bypassed easily. Never use a locking device on an exterior doorway that requires a key to unlock it from the inside.

Also use this attached to the door knob or handle with a rubber band if you live in a very sketchy neighborhood. This way you have to hold the stop bar up to open the door, and if someone tries to force their way in after you unlock the door to peek out or answer, and the criminal tries to force the door open, if you drop the stop bar it will be a door stopper, and not fall off if the door is closed and attempted to be opened again.

You might not like this idea much, but.... Could you move her into your room? That way it's more likely she'll wake you up when she wakes up? Put a lock like this on your door so she can't get out without you. You can put a potty chair in the room so she can go to the bathroom during the night if she needs to.

As for her actions toward others, do you think you could convince your other children to ignore her when she hurts them? For instance, they're playing together and she pulls their hair, they just get up and walk away from her. They can come be in the same room as you, and if she continues to harass them, you can physically restrain her. Just don't speak to acknowledge her beyond physically preventing her from hurting others (or herself). Watching her siblings just walk away from her, or not acknowledging her existence may be the catalyst to her wanting their attention. If she's lonely, she'll learn how to get attention the right way.

Get a front door that doesnt have a window, or has a very small window. You can also get a door with a steel core and no windows for added security.

​

If you have any first floor windows, plant thorny bushes in front of them and keep them at window height to discourage entry through a window. Yes someone can still get over a thorny bush, but its going to create an additional time and inconvenience for them when breaking in, as compared to a non-thorny bush, or a window with no bush at all. The point of all of this and the following is just to increase the time it will take for a successful entry, burglars arent (too) stupid, and will pick softer targets than you that they think they can get in, and get out of quickly. Their ideal home is one where no one is home, the entry is easy, and they can grab items of value and get out in under 4 minutes. If the door takes 6 minutes to kick down, its not going to work. If they can't bump the lock, or cut through glass on the door to unlock from the inside, its not going to work. If they can't quite reach the window with their cutting tool because of the thorny bush, and they have to cover it with a jacket and awkwardly climb over, its not going to work. You want them to be forced to make noise to enter, while slowing their time to enter. Noise can alert neighbors if you're not home, and if you are home it can give you time to chamber a round in your rifle, turn the optic on, put on your electronic ear protection etc. That way you can have fun instead of quickly grabbing your pistol off the nightstand because its the only gun you keep in condition 1/0. You want time to prepare, and you want to know they're coming. Everything below is centered around slowing down thieves and home invaders and making their entry louder.

​

Consider the following products.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GWF2R70/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Installed around the door frame this steel lining makes it EXTREMELY difficult to kick down or batter down a locked door, and also isn't visible.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZD8S8G/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3XQ9YU/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

If you don't have a very secure door lock, you may consider one of these two products as they prevent burglars from "lock bumping," which is a common lock-picking technique for people who have the typical door locks that you can buy at home depot etc. and aren't very secure.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3FJQSA/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Another way to combat lock-bumping is to buy a very secure door lock like a medeco, the keys required to lock bump a medeco are far rarer than those to bump a home depot lock, and most burglars simply don't have them.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Last but not least a metal door re-enforcer can stop a door from being kicked in if the steel frame and lock are defeated, but I think this product is overkill if you already have a steel frame and high quality lock.

​

Also consider a gun in case some does manage to get past all of this. However, despite being a gun owner, I don't really think owning one is necessary, as it is a last resort. Most forced entry is done through the door or windows, once you secure those, you simply need to be vigilant when entering and exiting your house. Have a camera or peep-hole to see who's there before you open the door, if you can't see them or they don't answer, don't open the door. Most home invasions depend on the home owner opening the door and allowing entry or upon someone kicking the door lock in. While most burglars are dependent on lock-picking, broken windows, or entry through windows. A burglar will run if they think someone is home or that someone might spot/hear them. A home invader is hoping someone is home

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When coming home, don't unlock your car doors until the garage is closed and be vigilant for someone on foot following you in as you park. When departing the home do the opposite. Keep the door to your house from your garage locked as well.

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Don't display wealth or possessions outside of the home. Some people think those signs that say Secured by .45 or whatever with a gun depicted on them scare burglars. But really all it says is that "when I'm not home there are probably guns here for you to steal." Guns, Jewelry, Cash, and to a lesser extent electronics are going to be targets for burglars, and signs like that advertise that at least one of those things will be inside to be worth stealing.