(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best soldering & brazing equipment

I haven't actually used mine for anything yet because I kind of got burned out doing technical hobbies after a technical workweek, but I decided I'd pick up one of these anyway, which hits a lot of the electronics test stuff you mentioned:

https://store.digilentinc.com/analog-discovery-2-100msps-usb-oscilloscope-logic-analyzer-and-variable-power-supply/

Ton of features for the price.

I use a 8-channel Saleae logic analyzer at work which is awesome, has really nice-looking software, and is priced reasonably for a home lab, but the AD2 does a lot more for not much more money. A decent multimeter is always useful. I used a $50 Radio Shack unit for a long time, but when it died, I picked up a really nice used Fluke 179 on eBay. Get some extra fuses for the fused current ports.

I definitely would buy a home 3D printer if I were into technical hobbies right now. I spent so much time using hand tools to lash together ugly electromechanical stuff for ham radio antennas and tuning networks before 3D printers were affordable. Agree that digital calipers are a great addition. I've found really cheap ones to be adequate at home.

For general electronics stock, even if the work's focused on microcontroller/IoT/digital, I like stocking up on small general-purpose capacitor and resistor assortments from places like Jameco, and then I order extra on the 220, 330, 1k, and 10k ohm resistors. For caps I'll get extra 0.1 and 1uF ceramic capacitors and 10uF or so tantalum electrolytics, all at 25V or higher, all to do power bypassing.

I've always found it useful to stock up on 3.3V and 5V voltage regulators at least. I usually keep some "adjustable" ones around as well. The classic LM78xx regulators are still pretty useful for general messing around. You can order what you really need later if you want something more compact or more efficient. But it's always nice to not have to wait for a DigiKey order just because you want to prototype a thing with a 3.3V microcontroller that plugs into your car's cigarette lighter auxiliary power jack.

I'm very into color coding my wiring, but find regular hookup wire to be too bulky for most board-to-board work in projects I'm working on. These days I buy long rolls of rainbow ribbon cable and tear it apart as necessary. It's nice to have a couple rolls of heavier black and red hookup wire for higher-current power leads.

I have a deep hatred of intermittent wire failures from flexing, and also get sick of perma-tangled spiderwebs that result from soldering both ends of things as I add things to a design. So I've started to favor crimped header connectors for wire-to-board connections to the point where I picked some up for the home lab. I like these Harwin M20s https://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/m20-series/32875 ... easy to pull the contacts and re-configure or even re-use by lifting the plastic tabs with a jeweler's screwdriver. I'll still often solder at least one end of the cable directly to a board... usually solder to a sensor board and connectorize the microcontroller end or something like that.

I've had good luck crimping them with this cheap crimping tool: https://www.inventables.com/technologies/crimping-tool

Lots of small cable ties.

If you do a lot of soldering, a good third-(& fourth & fifth) hand system is great. I like the cutting-fluid-conduit style ones like this

https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Creek-Helping-Hands-Soldering/dp/B010C504NK

I don't really have one at home right now. I built the ones I've got at work from parts from McMaster Carr.

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

> I originally was considering something like Lava Cables or maybe even the Evidence SIS kit, but those seem to be unreliable enough to give me pause. So, now I’m thinking that I’ll buy some plugs and cable and solder them myself (important note: at present I don’t know how to solder, but it doesn’t seem complicated, especially since it’s only cables).

Seriously, its way easier than you think. you can honestly learn how to solder going from absolutely zero experience to being able to solder cables in under a half hour. Id actually bet it takes less time then having to learn how to use the solderless solutions, which are a massive hassle.

Just last month I taught my friend how to solder and he went from knowing nothing to putting together a sweet diy keyboard in a single night.

Its also dead cheap to solder your own cables. Even the more "premium" cables come in under $1/ft and you can get pancake plugs off tayda.com for $0.50 each. Compare that to evidence charging 8$ per plug

so some quick math to maybe convince you some more

Evidence audio SIS plugs = $8 each.

pancake plugs = $0.50 each.

you need 48 plugs

848= $384 for the SIS plugs.

$0.5024= $24 for pancake plugs.

And then to add to that, the soldered plugs are going to be objectively more durable.

Also heres a little copy paste I made to help you know how little you'd actually need to spend to get started soldering. But if you have any other questions id be happy to help

if you don't plan on doing much soldering in the future and it's more of a one time thing, there's really no reason to get anything bore expensive than this. I spend easily 60 hours of solid soldering on the earlier version of this (same thing just without the leds) and I only ever replaced it because the tips were getting worn out (although you can replace the tips for cheap) and because I thought I deserved a more solid iron considering how much soldering I do.


if you do plan on doing lots of soldering in the future then I would recommend getting something other than a weller, they're honestly just one of those things that for years have been the industry standard but honestly have gone down hill. I've used a dozen different wellers, some old some new, some cheap some costing 300$ but none of them are really good. I, along with almost everyone in electronic repair industry like Luis Rossmann recommend a brang called hakko. I use atd absolutely love the hakko fx888d. It's really honestly just magic. It heats up to 700+ in under 30 seconds, with a live temperature readout (my old weller would take close to 15 minutes), atd the tips are really just magic, they just don't get corroded at all like every other brand I've used.



It's also worth mentioning for anyone new to soldering that the type of solder used makes a world of difference. What your going to want in rosin core, leaded solder (preferably 63/37 but 60/40 will work too). You want rosin core because it makes it a ton easier to not have to worry about flux, atd unless your doing really tiny electronic you won't need flux beyond the rosin core. You want leaded solder for a few reasons. First off, it melts at a way lower temperature (leaded solder melts at about 360f ish where lead free is closer to 460-480f, but saying that that's not at all the temps you wound use to actually solder at, it ranges from 400 - 700f depending on the application ). Leaded also has a way better surface tension, and melts more evenly, all this really just adds up to making it 100 times easier to work with, ESPECIALLY if you need to desolder anything.

Is it necessary to clean up flux? Almost never. Is it a good idea to do it anyway? I'd say so. Here's a good article about all things solder and flux to bring you up to speed.

Flux is SUPER carcinogenic, or so I've been lead to believe, and it also causes serious gastrointestinal issues if ingested, in even relatively small amounts. I generally try to leave all the circuit boards I work on clean of big globs of flux, but I'm no perfectionist. Flux is non-conductive, so don't worry if you leave a bunch behind or it looks like the flux might be bridging a connection. I oftentimes leave smaller flux contamination spots on the board, unless it's in a spot where I'd be likely to touch next time I'm handling the board.

Here's a pretty good soldering iron, the Hakko FX-888. It's more than enough iron to last you through all your projects in the foreseeable future, and it comes with extra tips and a tip cleaning canister. To be honest, though, it's pretty expensive, and I totally understand if it's out of your price range. Personally, I use a Chinese clone, which works extremely well, for what I paid for it.

I'd also recommend anyone working on anything with a soldering iron to get a set of helping hands. Finding one which isn't broken or of shit quality is a real crapshoot, but, once you have one that works, you'll wonder how you ever got by without one. Personally, I recommend spending the cash to get one with some sort of LED built in, but here's a link to a cheap and functional set of helping hands.

If you're going to be desoldering things often (or trying to make beautiful solder joints), you definitely want to get yourself some desoldering braid, which is just stranded copper wire filled with flux paste. When you put heat to the top of the braid and put the bottom of the braid on the component, the braid will wick excess solder from the component. Once you master using this stuff, it's a real boon for disassembly (or cleanup of solder blobs). You might also want to look into a desoldering pump, which is okay for some things, but not nearly as versatile as desoldering braid.

Last, but certainly not least, is having the right solder for the job. Personally, I use silver bearing solder, because I've been told it is more resistant to cold joints, and slightly more conductive. Here's a link to a spool of silver bearing solder, which I'd buy, were I in the market for a new spool.

One more link for you... When I was looking for a link to that Chinese clone soldering station, I stumbled on this DIY SMD soldering practice kit. Might be worth your time to invest in one and try your luck. For $2, it's a great way to go from soldering zero to soldering hero in a day or two. Also, check this page for more DIY kit ideas.

Let me know if you have any more questions! My inbox is always available, if you'd feel more comfortable PM'ing me questions, too. (That goes for anyone who needs a hand, not just /u/websurferathome)

If you can't get it with a Q-tip, it's nothing to worry about. Grab yourself a soldering iron on Amazon, as well as some quality solder and flux. I will link some in an edit to this comment in a few minutes. Also, screw everyone else in this thread, that is damn near the perfect amount of thermal paste.

EDIT: Here are my recommendations and reasons!

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SOLDERING IRONS:

Cheapo soldering iron:

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https://www.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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This one will do you some good for the quick fix, although I can't speak to the longevity of the iron or its ability to melt some of the higher temperature solders that factories use.

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More expensive (but WAAAAAAY BETTER) iron:

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https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=soldering+iron&qid=1554943755&s=gateway&sr=8-6

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This is a great soldering iron if you think electronics is something you'd like to get into. Quality replaceable tips are available, and it has a stand and comes with a cleaning sponge. I've used these, and absolutely love them. Honestly though, if this is going to be one of very few times you solder, just go for the cheap one.

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SOLDER:

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The cheap iron comes with some solder, and honestly you can probably get away with that for this one repair. If you decide to get the more premium iron though, here is some good solder:

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https://www.amazon.com/Mudder-Solder-Electrical-Soldering-0-22lbs/dp/B01B61TWGY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=solder&qid=1554944194&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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OR (I've never used this particular solder but MG chemicals is a great brand)

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https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Leaded-Solder-Diameter/dp/B004258YDE/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

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I usually stick to smaller diameter solders because you have a lot more control over how much you're putting onto a joint. This stuff is good, but really you just need to make sure it's lead solder because it melts a lot easier and is easier for beginners to work with.

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FLUX:

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If you want your joints to form and form well, you need some flux. At least coming from me, this is mandatory. Here's some good no-clean flux that you can use that will mostly evaporate off and shouldn't be much fuss to clean.

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https://www.amazon.com/Paste-10-milliliters-Pneumatic-Dispenser/dp/B00425FUW2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mg+chemicals+no+clean&qid=1554944408&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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TUTORIAL:

Although kind of slow, here's a pretty good soldering guide. This relates more to soldering electrical components, but most of the lessons remain the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpkkfK937mU

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Best of luck!

This one on Amazon seems to have pretty good reviews. I'd recommend getting a stand like this to go with it for safety reasons. (I decided to solder without mine a few weeks ago, and wouldn't you know it, the one time I decide I don't need the stand, I burn myself!)

You can easily spend a lot more on irons, and if you start doing a lot more soldering you may want to make a bigger investment. A lot of people really like the Hakko FX888D, but I personally prefer the Weller WTCPT-60 because I don't like fussing with knobs. (Despite not having a knob, the Weller actually does have very precise temperature control, but depending on what temperature you want you have to buy different tips, which isn't worth the hassle for most people. I use only one kind of solder so it doesn't matter for me, but I digress.)

I've never found any tutorials I really like, and my advice is to just get busy! You'll make a lot of mistakes and do a lot of projects slowly before you get good, and I don't think there's a tutorial out there that will let you skip that. To help you stay pointed in the right direction, here are a few things I look for in a good solder joint:

• A clean, consistent meniscus around the parts being soldered. If I'm tinning stranded wire, then I want to be able to see the contours of the strands underneath the solder once it's cooled, while still using enough solder to get good penetration. Big gobs of solder all over the place look tacky, can cause shorts, and can indicate the next problem:
  
• "Cold" solder joints. By this I mean that the conductors you're soldering together weren't hot enough when the solder melted, and so the solder didn't stick. Solder on "cold" joints will often (but not always) have a frosty appearance, and will usually bead up instead of forming a meniscus like I described earlier. To make sure your joints aren't cold, use the iron to heat the joint, then touch the solder to the joint (rather than the iron), to melt it. If the conductor is hot enough to melt solder by itself, you can be sure you're joints won't be cold. (Usually you have to melt a little gob of solder onto the iron first to get the heat to conduct into the joint. This is a trick you can only get good at through practice.)
  
  There are a few intuition issues you should be aware of that I've observed while teaching students to solder. For instance, most of the stuff you'll be soldering is so small that it will be "cold" (as in "too cold to melt solder") the instant you pull the iron away, and cool enough to touch within seconds. Try it if you don't believe me. The part will only stay hot as long as the iron is touching it. You'd be surprised how many people can't get their head around this.
  
  Also, oxygen is your enemy. The longer the part is hot, the more oxidized the surface will become and the harder it will be for solder to stick. This is true even when the joint is hot, but not hot enough to melt solder! So once the iron contacts the work, you have to be expedient. Most joints can be finished in 5 seconds or less, and if you're holding the iron on there for 10 seconds or more but the solder still isn't melting, stop and reexamine what you're doing. You may want to get some fine-grit sandpaper to clean the conductors off before you start again.
  
  Keeping oxygen out of your solder joint is the job of flux, and like /u/avialex (edit: fixed) said it's very helpful (provided everything is relatively clean to begin with). But again it's a balancing act. If you use too much flux you'll make a mess, and raw flux is slightly corrosive and can be very difficult to clean off your work.
  
  There are lots of other tricks you'll learn through practice too. I guess that's where tutorials might come in handy. You'll probably learn to splice wires (probably the most difficult thing to do with a soldering iron) much more quickly from someone with experience on Youtube than struggling through it 20,000 times yourself, doing it a harder way because you didn't know any better.
  
  At the same time though, there's no substitute for practice. This went on a lot longer than I intended, but I think now you have plenty of information to keep in mind as you get started. Good luck and happy soldering!

I run this instead of a Dremel brand tool. I have had a couple Dremels die on me over the years, so I tried this one and it has lasted 4 years so far! I also got a lot of my bits from harbor freight. I use the cuttoff wheels (ALWAYS WEAR FACE PROTECTION WITH THESE), Sanding Drums, and grinding stones the most. Use the cutoff for cutting out large swaths of material, sanding drums for tighter areas, and grinding stones to debur and smooth it all out. Most work that needs a dremel can be done with hand tools for better control. Coping saw, files, and flush cutters can go a long way. A lot of the "pros" don't use Dremels because they can jump out of control and hit a part of the blaster you planned on leaving stock and leaving a huge gash.

As for soldering Irons, I've heard wonderful things about this model, but cheaper models will work fine. TBH, I'd grab something in the $10 range and see if he sticks with the hobby. Maybe for christmas you can get him a nicer one if he's still going at it. I use a super duper old school Weller soldering station, so really anything will work. The issue you'll get with the cheaper soldering irons is the tips will tend to not last long and the heating element might crap out after a few months. Don't go cheaper than $10 here as some of them are meant for wood engraving, not soldering and wont get hot enough to melt solder. Any size solder is fine. I personally use lead/tin solder and just avoid breathing fumes as well as wash my hands when I'm done modding. Lead solder is MUCH easier to work with and requires less heat. Look for "Rosin Core solder" as it's easier to work with as it has flux in the center of the solder.

Good flush cutters, hobby knife, wire strippers, heatshrink, wire, loctite, etc are all valuable modding supplies. We sell some on our shop (shameless plug). I would recommend for plastic to plastic bonds he use Devcon Plastic Welder (make sure it contains Methyl Methacrylate as this acts as a solvent weld to bond the plastics together chemically instead of a weak adhesive grip like putty). Putty should be used as a filler material. I use two different putties. Free form Air for large amounts of gap fill, it is 6 times less dense than normal putty so it wont make the blaster weight 8 pounds when done. It is VERY easy to sand, but sometimes requires a thin layer of bondo over top of it to leave a perfect finish. I also use Apoxie Sculpt which is a direct replacement for normal putty for gap filling purposes. It's MUCH easier to sand than JB Weld putty, and leaves a nice smooth finish when sanded down.

Speaking of sandpaper, get various grades of sandpaper from 100 down to 600 grit (I go as far as 1000 if I want a gloss sheen on something).

Other than all of that, the tools I have on my bench that I would hate to mod without now are: Helping hands (for soldering), various different sizes of needle nose pliers, numerous sizes of small to medium screwdrivers, silicone lubricant, hot glue (for securing wires inside the shell), Electric Screwdriver, and various tweezers.

My cord craft kit

Detail of select tools

DIY Fid, Finished paracord end, Kleen-Kut Paracord scissors & buoy wrap scissor cover

I've accumulated quite a few tools in my years as a knotter/rigger but you really don't need very much to get started in the hobby. When I first started tying, my most commonly used tool was the Dr. Slick Spring Creek Clamp, 5", Black, Straight. You'll find many less expensive "hemostats" on Amazon, this just happens to be the one I picked up at an outdoor outlet many years back. It served as a fid, a "pusher" and a puller. I don't use them for tying much any more, I "thread" with a fid more than I pull through these days, but I do use them for finishing the ends of paracord — see below.

As I said, I now use "fids" or lacing needles regularly. My first fids were homemade — machined by spinning an aluminum Chicago screw in a drill press and shaping it with a file. I progressed to using a pair of the Tandy Leather Long Jumbo Perma-Lok Needle 1193-05 that I'd modified by shortening and shaping the tips to be more needle like. I wouldn't bother these days because purpose made fids are readily available: 3 1/2" Stainless Steel 550 Paracord Fid, Lacing, Stitching Needle. I have fids and Perma-Lok needles in a variety of sizes to accommodate different cords — I don't use 550 exclusively.

Though not completely necessary I do find the Knotters Tool II (Stainless Steel) w/ 3 Different Size Stainless Steel Lacing Needles by Jig Pro Shop to be handy and it includes three fids. An aluminum version is available too, but I'm never one to shy away from investing in a tool that will last. I also use a 4 3/4" Paracord Tucking Tool (Stainless Steel) for tucking and smoothing. You can probably find a similar tool at the local pharmacy, and maybe even at a dollar store.

The best cutting tool I've found for paracord are the Kleen-Kut scissors sold by Paracordist.com. Unfortunately, the store is currently down so I can't supply a link. You can use good quality flush-cutters, bandage scissors or a good, sharp pair of "Fiskars" (or similar scissors) and they will all work. However, I tried everything I could to avoid buying the "special" scissors and, in the end, wish I'd just done it sooner.

My technique for finishing the ends of paracord: Clamp the end of the cord at a 45 degree angle with the hemostats. Cut the cord flush with edge of the clamp. Run a lighter along the edge of the cord to seal. While the cord is still warm, remove the clamp and, if necessary, re-clamp to the very end to squeeze and seal the end. Tuck the end back into the workpiece. If the end is going to be exposed I will sometimes remove a small length of the core first, then trim and seal just the jacket for a flatter, neater finish.

I do sometimes use a hot knife for finish work. Most often the Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Soldering Iron. If I'm at my bench I do have an Engel Heat Cutter HSGM Hot Knife w/ Type R Blade available (used for "big rope" and purchased when I was rigging boats professionally) but it's total overkill for paracord work. I am intrigued by the Hand Held Electric Hot Knife Rope Cutter Set - 100 Watt, Cutting Blade (HHHK-HS18. The tool is probably not as durable as the Engel, but if one isn't using it all day, every day it's likely suitable. One Advantage of these "rope guns" is that they heat up almost instantly but, truthfully, the Weller doesn't take very long to come up to temperature and it's much more portable. Whichever you choose, it’s easy to mar your piece with the hot knife so I generally use the hemostats as a shield. (And again, I'm more often just using the lighter/hemostats for paracord work.)

I also keep a needle case with sail-makers needles and whipping twine (wrapped around the needle case) handy for stitching and whipping. (In a pinch, a single strand of 550 core makes a decent twine, particularly if you pass it along a block of wax.)

I want to emphasize that you don't need all of these tools, you might not really need any of them, but I do find that assembling a good kit and having the right tool available can help overcome tricky problems. I'd say that the Knotter's tool (admittedly, my attachment to this tool may be due to my love for marlin spikes in general) with it's fids—or barring that, just a set of fids—the hemostats, a good pair of scissors and a lighter would make a decent field kit. Add the rest of the stuff to your knotting bench over time. Or not.

I'll also say that there was a certain satisfaction to making and improvising my tools in the early days but now that there are so many quality purpose made tools available via Amazon I don't find it's worth my time any more. (I have a wooden bracelet/collar jig that I made but I recently acquired the aluminum jig from Acid Tactical and I think it's just brilliant and even assigning a lower value to my time than I normally would, much cheaper to buy than build.) I do have a plan to machine a set of Delrin fids and pushers for low-profile air travel "one of these days"

Hope this helps.

I wish there was a very clear answer that isn't a thousand 823 words. But there isn't, so bear with me. Or is that bare with me? Regardless, beer with me.

Okay, as far as I know there are three ways to do a battery swap (as long as you aren't trying to keep your saves on the game. Then there are wires, lots of prayers, and it is a pain in the bottom). The first two methods are the guide you linked to and soldering the battery. The last is finding a tabbed battery.

As your guide shows, and as both of the first methods will follow, you need to break the connectors off the battery. Don't bust out a soldering iron just yet, these aren't soldered. They are spot welded. Unless you have a spot welder (and you don't - don't lie to me and say you do, I doubt any of us have one) you won't be able to get it back together the same way it was. You need to break the connections in order to get a fresh battery in there.

Grab your finest razor blade in order to sever the connections, and a handful of bandaids in order to stop the bleeding from your accidental cuts. It is bound to happen, maybe not the first time, hopefully not every time, but you will be poking and cutting your hands. It will suck. A sharp razor won't hurt you as much, but try to be careful anyway.

After you clean your blood off the circuit board, you can choose which of the first two methods to go down. You can use the soldering iron or tape / wire glue. Wire glue is, as far as I've been told, basically iron mixed into elmer's glue. It is suppose to hold well, but it wouldn't hurt to tape after using it. Mix it up well before using it, or else you might not get a very conductive result.

The issue with using glue or tape to hold your battery is when you get to Gannon in the dark world, or maybe battling Giygas, or vanquishing dracula, your method of holding the battery will fail. Maybe you'll bump the cart just the right way, or maybe the dog will run in and knock the SNES down, then you'll lose all that time. And be upset at the dog that just was super excited to see you, because he only knows a few people and he loves you so very much. He won't understand why you are angry, and it will break his tiny little heart.

Don't break your dogs tiny little heart. If you don't own a soldering iron, use good electrical tape and use the glue, and make sure it is as secure as possible. Some people will add hot glue in there to hold that sucker in place, and it isn't a bad idea.

So, you love your dog and you are thinking you should use a soldering iron. Well, it is going to be hard to play fetch with fido when you are blind, and you might get angry at me if I don't mention it. Hot things and batteries aren't a good combination. They can pop, spray acid, and ruin your day. Wear safety glasses at the very least, and try to keep the iron on the battery as little as possible. A soldered battery will hold in place much better, but it still isn't great.

So, you've arrived at option 3. I like to call this the expensive option, but it is the right way to do it. You need to find the batteries (and without spending a bunch of time researching, there is a pretty good chance it is one of the ones in this list )then you need to have a soldering iron, and some solder. A desoldering iron would be really handy, but soldering wick could be used in its place, or you could just not use anything and probably be okay. Buy a/some tabbed batteries, remove the old battery by heating up the tabs through the board and pull it out. A desoldering iron can be used to suck the solder away, which will make this easier for you, and a wick can be used in a similar fashion. Pop the old one out, put the new one in, solder it in place, and you'd be good to go. The batteries aren't going to be cheap, and you can't ship them (easily) via USPS because they are lithium.

As for soldering, you might need to practice the basics. There are cheap little kits at Radio Shack. Make a FM radio or something using one of them. Take your time, be careful, and keep some burn ointment on hand. Seriously, there isn't a method here that won't lead you to some sort of minor injury.

Good luck, and tell your Dog I said "Woof!"

Surprised nobody mentioned the cold joints, but when you redo the soldering, you can fix that as well. Basically, use your iron to heat the pad and wire together and then touch the solder to the joint. The metal will melt the solder, and it will flow right in and make a "hot" joint, which will be much more mechanically sound. It also has the benefit of guaranteeing that the flux melts; if you're not using rosin core solder, get a flux pen. The flux will etch the oxide layer off the metals, and also help the solder flow into the joint. No-clean flux is nice, but you can always clean it off with some rubbing alcohol to be safe.

If your iron has an adjustable temp, shoot for 300° C at minimum for leaded solder, I prefer 320° personally. Lead-free solder will need a higher temperature, but it's a moot point since you shouldn't ever bother with that stuff. If your iron isn't temperature controlled, make it a priority to replace it. The TS-100 is popular for good reason, but you can find a perfectly good adjustable iron for less than $30. I think. My last cheap iron was like 15 years ago. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Also, you might want to tape the motor wires to the arms so they can't find their way into the props.

Here's an ARF (Almost Ready To Fly) drone kit that's around your budget ($194) Make sure to add FPV if you want to see what your drone is seeing:

http://www.miniquadbros.com/collections/frontpage/products/miniquadkit?variant=5994973827
__
You're also going to need some other equipment to get you up and running:

• Transmitter and Receiver ($52.99): You're going to need this to control your quadcopter of course!
  
  
• Soldering Iron ($19.99): An ESSENTIAL tool for building drones. This soldering iron melts something called solder. Solder is like metal glue that carries electricity through it! You connect wires to components by soldering!
  
  OPTIONAL:
  
  
• Video Antennas ($14.89): These are much better than the antenna that comes with your Video Transmitter. With these, you'll get much more range and a high quality video. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR ANTENNAS ON BEFORE POWERING ANYTHING UP. magic smoke will happen
  
  
• Video Goggles ($69.99): This allows you to see what your quadcopter is seeing through goggles with small monitors in them!
  
  The reason why this is optional is because there's two ways of flying a quadcopter.
  
  There's Line-Of-Sight (LOS) flying, where you don't see what the drone sees and fly it from your sight. This can save you money since you don't need video equipment.
  
  Then there's First-Person-View (FPV). This adds so much immersion and fun to your drone! However, you should keep in mind that adding this on will set you up for another $100-150 for something mediocre/beginner.
  __
  
  Yes yes I know, the hobby is VERY expensive, even for beginner equipment. But there's a saying that goes like this, "Buy it nice or buy it twice". I've spent easily $750 in my first months of drone building.
  
  If the price puts you off, you can purchase this which comes pre-assembled. All you need is to add your radio receiver and video antennas (if you're doing FPV).
  __
  
  Hopefully the amount of information supplied isn't too much. If you have any questions, just PM me! I'll be glad to help :) /r/multicopter

Here are some rules to keep in mind:

• Keep your soldering iron clean and tinned, a dirty/oxidized soldering iron doesn't transfer heat well. I use a wet sponge at a bench. If I'm in the field, the hem of my jeans works well. Just quick wipe and a touch of solder for a good shiny tip. (Adding a little bit of solder to "tin" the tip of the iron also aids in heat transfer and keeps dirt/oxidation off.)
  
  
• Be sure your parts are clean too. You want clean, shiny copper to solder to. Wire or circuit boards that have been exposed to moisture are a disaster to solder to. Fine sandpaper and alcohol can clean things up if there's tarnish.
  
  
• Heat the part you're soldering with the iron. Use the hot part to melt the solder. Just like you don't plop your bacon and eggs on the stove, you put a pan down first and put your food in the pan. You're not using the soldering iron directly on the solder...
  
  
• Don't blob your solder on. This isn't paint and it isn't glue. It's liquid metal. Your joint should look almost as if it has been moistened with water.
  
  
• Keep a mental count of 10 sec. Too much heat can destroy components on a circuit board and melt the insulation on wires. 10 sec is a good rule of thumb. If you can't achieve a good joint in that, let things cool down and try again.
  
  
• Too little heat is also bad. It makes the solder joint brittle and the solder doesn't flow evenly. You'll have a grainy appearance. Allow the heat to conduct through both parts you're soldering together. Bigger parts will require a little time to come up to temp. Tiny parts are almost solderable immediately.
  
  
• Remember that solder take a bit of time to cool. Don't move your part around until the melted solder has solidified. Moving it while it's liquid is another way to have a brittle joint.
  
  Start with a pair of wires... Just twisted together wires, like a "Western Union" or "Lineman's" splice.
  
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Western_Union_splice
  
  It's how I usually install car stereo equipment when putting the car and radio harness together.
  
  Next, you can move up to kits. I wish HeathKit was still selling shit... Velleman seems to sell small trinkets for less than US$10 and you can find them on Amazon. They're fairly easy to assemble, single layer board kits.
  
  http://www.vellemanstore.com/en/minikits
  
  Mainly, it's practice, practice, practice.
  
  You don't even have to spend a whole bunch on an iron... Either of these is quite acceptable and I work on electronics on a daily basis:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP25NUS-Standard-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG70K/
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-Medium-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG6UQ/
  
  The first one is a 25 watt unit and better suited for smaller circuit board jobs. The second one is a larger 40 watt unit and more suited for wiring type jobs. But both should be acceptable for both types of jobs.
  
  EDIT: Also, as someone who works on electronics almost daily... The was James May should have repaird this was to bend a hook in the end of the wire he was soldering. That way, it'd hang on the terminal strip without the need for a third hand. Iron in one hand, solder in the other.

For a soldering station I would consider new unless you find a great deal on something... For example, I use this at work, it's never given me a problem and it's used quite often (we're a semi conductor manufacturer and I share the lab with another)--granted we use a set of Wellers for most of the soldering, but the Aoyue gets high use for the heat gun and occasionally the soldering iron. I liked it so much that I bought one for home, yeah it's a bit high, but if you're doing SMD or other soldering stuff you will appreciate some of the features and included items.


I'm not sure about power supplies, but one good thing there is that age is usually not a big issue, and if you're just needing standard supplies you can probably get away with a decent 12V supply and then build a few regulators for lower voltages.


I've heard that Rigol oscilloscopes are a great value, and that that the lower rate units can be firmware hacked to higher rates. Personally the trouble I have is that after using $5000 Tektronics scopes at work I can hardly even stand to step down to a $2000 Tektronics, so I can't imagine what using a $350 Rigol would feel like... but if you have nothing, this isn't bad.



I'd also check out ham radio flea markets. BTW I have to say that if you are into electronics and what to make a life/career there is no better place to be than into amateur radio. the ARRL handbook alone is an amazing reference. As a personal responsible for documentation at my work I'm blown away by the quality of the writing for those handbooks. Even older copies are great and they're usually cheap. I have a 2003 copy at work and reference it regularly for either the information I need or a great starting place for researching a topic.

I'm legally blind and I have no problems soldering, so long as I don't get my nose too close. :P

Seriously, though, the smaller the component the harder it will be, but soldering key switches is pretty easy. Just don't rush and be patient/careful. The trick is getting the right amount of solder, which just takes practice to get a feel for (and having your iron the right temperature really helps here).

You can pick up soldering practice kits for around $10 if you want to give it a try. If you've never soldered before, I'd definitely recommend that before you dive right in to working on a $100+ keyboard.

I recommend not using the cheap $10-15 irons though. They can be a great source of frustration and put you off of the whole experience. If you don't want to sink the money into a full soldering station, something like this would probably be a great place to start.

Eh, soldering just takes a bit of practice, and there are tons of Youtube videos that explain in detail the best ways to do so.

(I'd recommend this channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChbLnX8JcsN9bH4BNgJZ6wA)

Really it's all about not holding the iron on the board too long. Once you get that down, it's easy. Learning the wire gauges and all that is also very easy as most boards have recommendations in the paperwork. (if it carries power, big wire... If it carries signal, smaller wire). These new DNA boards are about the easiest thing ever to work with, and even someone with little to no experience could solder them with ease. (now the DNA20/30/40, notsomuch)

If you're looking for a good soldering iron, you want something with wattage control, and while weller has been the standard for decades, they are overpriced and a bit hardcore unless you are a pro. I'd highly recommend the Hakko FX888D http://amzn.com/B00ANZRT4M which is what pretty much everyone uses, or what I personally use, the Aoyue 9378 http://amzn.com/B00BSW69LI which has served me very well. There are others for considerably less, and if you aren't planning on making this a hobby, then something like the Aoyue 469 http://amzn.com/B00MCVCHJM would be perfectly fine. (60w is about a low as you'll want for a variable wattage iron, so you'll have a little wiggle room)

Look up some tutorials on youtube. A good iron makes a world of difference. I struggled with properly tinning all the irons I've used previously which were just those cheap $8 dollar irons from like walmart. The weller that was in my dad's stuff wasn't much more expensive but they make quality stuff.

The tip tinned very well and everything was fairly smooth. If you don't have a decent stock of soldering supplies I would purchase them before you start.

Here's a quick rundown of what I would recommend:

Simple Weller Soldering Iron

Helping Hands

Desolder Wick

Kester .03" solder

Having the desolder wick saved me a few times when I had some bad flow from the parts not having adequate heat and the solder just clumping on the pin rather than flowing into the connection. You just lay the braid over the solder and press your iron on top and it will soak the solder into the braid and leave your parts clean. You'll probably want something to clean your solder iron tip with. You can buy a Hakko cleaning stand with wire brush for $10 on amazon or you can just wet a scotch brite pad you buy from walmart for a few dollars.

You can use solder you already have if it's a small enough diameter. You want small diameter so that when you touch it to the part (not to the iron) it melts quickly and you dont have to continue to apply heat to the parts. As far as actually handling the solder while you're trying to work I like to cut a small length of solder, maybe 6-8 inches and then wind it in a mini spool around my pinkie finger and leave a length of it sticking out so you have something to hold on to that will give you good control.

How-To Solder Instructable

Once you make the connections look at them, a good connection should typically be shiny and not cloudy. It's likely overkill for this project but those are good practices.

Hey! :) I also use a hi-powered magnifying glass (a cheap $5 camera +10 macro filter) mounted onto a Flexible Helping Hand). Detail painting becomes infinitely easier when you can see what you're doing. Lots of light also makes all the difference.

in addition to the excellent information /u/bmatys has provided, for fine painting, I use oil paints on acrylic or lacquer gloss coats. This way one is able to use a combination of paint application and removal (with turpentine) to get really fine strokes. Make sure the turpentine/thinner doesn't attack the paint coat you already have on. Obviously you're using the thinnest brush you have at hand.

Also it's a good idea to support the palm of your hand to steady your strokes.

If you are a total noob, I suggest you just get any 60 W soldering iron. Really. This one suits you and cost less than $10. Because getting a FX-888D now is like killing mosquitoes with cannons.

You also may need a stand where to rest the iron when not using it. It comes with a sponge so you can clean the iron tip from time to time (just don't forget to wet it before use).

Finally, you will need some solder. Stay away from lead-free solder, this stuff isn't for amateurs. Get a good-old 63/37 solder with rosin flux core, this one have a 0.3 mm diameter, small enough to even solder SMD components (but don't start with them, they need more practice to be hand-soldered).

Soldering isn't a difficult skill but it requires practice. So you better start small and take easy steps. In no time you will be soldering SMD components. :)

PS: you also want to get some desoldering wick and a hand vacuum pump/solder sucker, those are more useful than you might think.

DISCLAIMER: all these items are just suggestions, buy whatever you think is more useful for you. Just wanted to give you a start point.

What a beautiful shot! Sometimes sacrifices must be made haha.

If you dont mind me making a small suggestion, I would try using an abrasion resistant polycarbonate infront of your lens because its the least likely to scratch or pit from debris. You can get just basic polycarb for like $5 so you could also just buy 10 and use them as disposable parts. It would save you a lot of money in the long run, and polycarb is the least likely to warp your image and if you get the thin stuff (under 0.5") it will have minimal effect on your light.

As for dew, you really just need to make sure youre above the dew point. If you have a power source, I would just buy a heat gun and point it at the edge of the poly carbonate, about a foot away. This way air is traveling along the surface of the polycarb and the lens. This would whisk away anything on them, heat them above the dew point preventing any of it, and wouldnt blow any dust in the way.

Anyway, great to read these detailed accounts from first hand photographers. Than you so much for sharing!

I have a very similar vise in my workshop. Works great and I love it, but third-hands are amazing if you get a good one. I tried this one out after seeing the amazing reviews on Amazon and was not let down. Having 4 clamps instead of 2, and having them be able to lock down makes a world of difference.
https://www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Helping-Hands-Third-Soldering/dp/B00GIKVP5K

I also have one like this, only not quite as expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-004-570-Regular-Soldering-Station/dp/B01579QJYO/ref=sr_1_95?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518811625&sr=1-95&keywords=third+hand

I'd check the tip of your iron; if it's silver and shiny, it's fine; black and pitted, it probably doesn't conduct heat as well, and it's time to get a new one.

There are also other irons, like this Hakko that are higher wattage for about half the cost of the mentioned station.

I'd suggest switching to silicone hobby wire; a lot of the nerf stores like OutOfDarts, FoamBlast, and Containment crew carry it. It will handle high heat will, but is still pretty reasonable to strip by hand. You can also check out PVC coated wire; it's cheaper and a little thinner (though a bit less flexible), but it will burn much sooner than silicone.

Lead Free soldering is a bit more challenging, but it's certainly doable.

Some tips I learned the hard way:

• Don't get a GoPro mount just yet. Chances are you probably won't even use it until you're a much better pilot, and it will just add unnecessary weight when you're not using it.
  
• Get an F3 based flight controller (SP Racing F3 or similar) instead of an F1 (Naze32). If you're anything like me, you're going to try to get the most out of your quad and use all of the fancy technologies available to you (like an on screen display, or using SBUS and telemetry with your receiver, or LEDs, or whatever). When you go to add stuff on, though, you have to work with hardware serial ports, or UARTs; the Naze32 has 2 UARTs while F3 FCs have 3 available. Having that extra UART available will make a lot of things a lot easier, and the increased processing power on the F3 should allow you to use more software serial ports than on the Naze (meaning you can use more stuff simultaneously).
  
• When assembling your quad, make sure you put your screws through the plates facing downwards with the nuts on the ground. It's a lot easier to use a socket wrench to tighten stuff than a hex wrench.
  
• If you're building a 250 quad first, use 220X motors instead of 180X motors. The 220X motors are bigger and produce more thrust than the 180X motors, which will improve your flying characteristics. Just make sure that the frame you choose can accommodate them; if you're starting out with a tried and true ZMR250, make sure you get the version with M3-sized arms.
  
• Make sure, among other things, you have the following equipment:
  
  
  • Soldering iron with a fine tip (these are replaceable, so if you already have an iron you can just get the tips). One with adjustable temperature helps a lot.
    
  • Solder
    
  • Soldering flux (I recommend a flux pen; you can get these from Amazon)
    
  • Desoldering wick
    
  • Solder tip cleaning wire
    
  • Soldering iron holder
    
  • Multimeter (useful for testing stuff). Make sure to also get a battery for it.
    
    
• If you're planning on using LEDs, get addressable LED strips (WS2812 or equivalent). Since my ZMR uses nonaddressable strips, I have switches on the strips, which tend to get damaged in rough landings.
  
• Get a spare motor in each direction and a spare ESC. You don't know when you'll break something, but when you do, you'll have a spare you can quickly switch out.
  
• Heatshrink looks better than electrical tape.
  
• Zip ties are your friend.

$14 link for a solid basic soldering iron.
Here's one that costs a little more, but has more adjustability $39 link.
Anything from Weller is going to be pretty good.
Here's a pretty good basic soldering video.
It's not hard, but takes a little practice to get the feel for it. I would recommend finding a broken electronic that you can pull a circuit board out of and just practice soldering by removing parts from the board and putting them back.
Have fun!

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

These types of things are generally considered hobbyist level and in all honestly, you are best doing this yourself with a good Weller Soldering Iron, a 56 SMD Desk Magnafier and some helping hands.

If that is out of the question though, I'd recommend checking out Fab Lab. It is a non-profit community space that has all the equipment available to anyone who dabbles in everything from Raspberry Pi to all things electronics. You may be able to consign someone or do it yourself there.Their address is 847 14th Street, San Diego 92101

Hope this helps and good luck!

You guys are making it sound easier than it is.
SOLDERING is easy. Anyone can do that. Just heat the work and the solder drips right in the hole.

It's DESOLDERING which is hard. And without proper desoldering equipmenet (like an Aoyue or a Hakko), it can be even HARDER and if you do it wrong, you could damage the PCB. You need more than just a soldering iron to desolder. You also need a desoldering pump (vacuum tool pump (NOT recommended unless you have no other choice) or a proper desoldering iron which is $$$).

The key is probably damaged and those are not easy to fix without making the problem worse. If the metal tab is damaged or bent out of shape there's no fixing that. With a switch top remover (from MK.com) you can remove the switch top and the cherry stem, after desoldering the switch (ONLY PCB mount switches can be popped open without desoldering), but if you don't have spare switches, I would just RMA the thing.

A good desoldering pump is https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Contained-Desoldering-Internal-Carrying/dp/B00PGFAJWS
But as you can see it's expensive. But it does come with some extra tip tops.

An even better one but more expensive is https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FR300-05-P-Desoldering-Tool/dp/B00KWM69C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1490577663&sr=8-1&keywords=Hakko+FR300-05+desoldering+tool

Yes that's $$. And a lot.

A good starter kit, which includes solder and a vacuum pump is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1ISGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ; not too expensive for what you get.

Once you're ready to move up to higher quality you can buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Soldering-Station-599-029/dp/B00C2BHTBI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1489522270&sr=8-3&keywords=Hakko+FX888D

The following are the parts I'll be purchasing for this build. I think I've covered everything, but as this will be my first custom loop if someone could give it the once over and make sure I'm not forgetting something it would be GREATLY appreciated!

Link to current build

Item | Vendor | Price | Quantity |
---|---|----|----|----
[CE 280](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual","EK-CoolStream CE 280) | EK | 75.99 | 1 |
[PE 360](https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-pe-360-triple#ow_alert_box","EK-CoolStream PE 360) | EK | 79.99 | 1 | 1
Corsair SP 120 2-pack | Amazon | 27.99 | x2 |
EK 140 Revo D5 | EK | 163.99 | 1 | text
EK Supremacy EVO | EX | 78 | 1 | text
EK Pump Bracket | EX | 13.49 | 1 | text
MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk EK| Newegg | 569.99 | 1 | text
ATX Bridging Plug | EX | 2.49 | 1 | text
Alphacool Silicon Bending Cord | Amazon | 8.49 | 1 | text
EK-CSQ Plug | EK | 3.49 | x2 | text
EK-AF 6mm M-M Extender | EK | 2.99 | x2 |
EK Ball Valve | EK | 19.99 | 1 | text
EK X Splitter | EK | 8.99 | 1 | text
Heat Gun | Amazon | 17.71 | 1 |
Step Bit | Amazon | 10.85 |1| text
Pipe Cutter | Amazon | 7.99 | 1 | text
EK-HDC 16mm Gold Fitting | EK | 8.99 | x10 |
EK PETG 12/16 Tube | EK | 8.49 | x4 |

I appreciate the effort. This seems promising and may be the better idea, the other route I was going to take was the Bardwell kit with some other stuff.

https://store.rotorriot.com/bardwells-budget-build-kit/

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-series-1300mah-4s-100c-fpv-lipo-battery

https://www.amazon.com/usmile-receiver-Support-FS-iT4S-Evolution/dp/B07FMFG6Q3/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1542217789&sr=1-1&keywords=fli14

https://www.amazon.com/Flysky-FS-i6X-Transmitter-FS-iA6B-Receiver/dp/B0744DPPL8

https://www.getfpv.com/new-arrivals/ev-peak-e3-falcore-edition-35w-3a-lipo-battery-balance-charger.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4571Q6/ref=as_li_ss_tl?psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=fpvknowitall-web-20&linkId=6769f39dd3014cb5619db31a54b18438

https://www.racedayquads.com/products/rdq-quad-solder-38-62-0-8mm-100g

https://www.amazon.com/DOWELL-Stripper-Multi-Function-Tool%EF%BC%8CProfessional-Craftsmanship/dp/B06X9875Z7/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542221619&sr=1-4&keywords=wire+stripper+and+cutter

https://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Titanium-Nitride-Driver-Wrench/dp/B00CP2GGBI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1488911480&sr=8-3&keywords=hex+driver&linkCode=sl1&tag=dre-youtube-20&linkId=d53d845db871ab90fe110b2918f60a7e

$381 no shipping/tax and the build kit comes with accessory kit including motor screws for CL1 5mm thick arms, double-sided tape, FC stack mounting screws, XT60 power lead, zip ties, and heat shrink.

​

Your idea seems like it may be "too little" for the project but I am honestly ok with that because I rather get something done then bite off something too big to chew and end up having to figure something out last second and it being a piece of crap.

​

So does that flight controller stick right into those frames and then you screw them in or something? You say I only need to solder the the power wires to the camera, where do the motors go? I probably sound like an idiot but I'm not really an electrician or carpenter, I don't build things, other then computers :P. I need to head off now so I can't do so much research right now and I spent all day researching today.. won't have much time tomorrow, we are going to tour a college. Can you recommend a good video that would go along with this build? Tomorrow, I am going to ask the teacher if the TV in the room I am presenting in has analog input, if not we go from there. We have access to a 3D printer but a lot of people are going to be using it most likely and I think its slow but I can definitely get the camera mount printed. Once again, appreciate the effort.

Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:

> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.

> Other stuff:

> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment

> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.

I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:

• Jumpers, though it's since been recommended to me that I just use solid-core 22 AWG wire so I bought this wire kit and these automatic strippers
  
• Breadboards, both self-adhesive and solderable, and maybe some mini ones of each type.
  
• LEDs (RGB and single-color)
  
• A good selection of potentiometers and trimpots, both slide and radial, plus knobs for them if applicable
  
• More buttons of varying types, both clicky and quiet momentary ones (here's a quiet button that's nice)
  
• A good multimeter and maybe some extra probes
  
• Some power supplies, both 12v and 5v. Here's one that's supposed to do both simultaneously, but you'll need a molex plug (which Sparkfun inexplicably doesn't carry) unless you want to strip the end. You might also want some barrel jacks, and this cheap extension cable provides the male end.
  
• A variable power supply would probably also be very useful, but I haven't yet invested in one of those so I can't make a recommendation at this time.
  
• A good selection of resistors
  
• Alligator test clips, plus some with pigtails for prototyping on a breadboard with components that won't fit in those little holes
  
• Some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun that you should only use on the lowest setting for this purpose. When selecting heat shrink tubing, pay attention to it's shrink ratio and what size it'll end up being when you're done.
  
• A soldering kit and some solder. Note that all solders aren't created equal but the one I linked is supposed to be decent.
  
• If you get into larger gauge soldering (for home or automotive wiring), a propane torch will be handy, but you can get something like that for $20 with a propane tank at your local hardware store
  
• Some project boxes

I'll just recommend these:

https://www.getfpv.com/ts100-digital-oled-programmable-interface-mini-soldering-iron.html <----- Fantastic portable and desktop but best if you need portable. I own this one.

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Variable-Soldering-Station-Removable/dp/B00MCVCHJM?ref_=ast_bbp_dp60W so you can split the diff.

https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-9378-Programmable-Digital-Soldering/dp/B00BSW69LI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp <---- I own this one. Works very very well.

Never owned a Weller that I've liked.

You definitely want to get a soldering station. So something that can control the temperature of the of the iron. The reason being is the ones that just plug into the wall usually fluctuate between extremely hot and very hot which can become if you’re trying to solder next to very delicate transistors on the pcb.


I know people say you can get away with the cheapest everything but that’s usually not the case at all and sometimes dangerous to your health.


Getting good solder, tip tinner, brass sponge, flux pen, and a fan with a carbon filter will do you great things.


The fan is extremely important when your desoldering as that will give off a tonne of chemicals.


This is what I personally have


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BSW69LI/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074J6R1KQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001W2XZOS/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPGDLA/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NS4J6BY/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The soldering iron is overkill if you’re just using it for trains

You can fuss with connectors, but that limits your options considerably.

Generally you'll want to mount the power supply somewhere on a wall or a shelf somewhere, and then run wire to the strips. Working with pre-made stuff, you won't be able to position things very well; those mostly work for under-cabinet lighting.

All the tapes work by having two copper traces along the length for a +12V and a ground. There are pads placed along the length that you can solder wires to, and marks for where you can cut the tape. Making this connection is pretty easy, even if you don't have soldering experience. If you're into DIY/woodworking stuff, it shouldn't be a problem.

The power supplies have a standard terminal block. These are basically little screws that clamp onto a bare wire. You simply need to be able to strip the end of a wire of its insulation to make the connection. Ideally you solder the wire first so the strands don't poke out and short on something, but that's optional.

To wire this all up, you'll need a wall-power cable (you can buy these pre-made, or simply cut the cord off a discarded appliance) to connect to the power supply. Then, you'll need to run paired wires to the actual strips themselves. Note that this is a 12V system, so the amperage can actually be considerable. A full strip is going to draw about 5 amps, so size the wire accordingly. 18AWG is a good start, but if you want to do a long run (>10feet) I'd go for 16AWG.

A simple iron is all you need (https://smile.amazon.com/GLE2016-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Different/dp/B01N413T8U/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542140733&sr=1-13&keywords=soldering+iron)

but the extras in a kit like this might be useful if you don't have any electronics tools: https://smile.amazon.com/Soldering-Electronics-Adjustable-Temperature-Portable/dp/B071VLFGXL/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1542140733&sr=1-14&keywords=soldering+iron

• You'll need a PCB: http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/planck/planck-pcb
  
• 48 keyswitches (I'd go with MX Blues or MX Browns - MX blues are loud, MX browns are quieter): http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/keyboard-parts/keyswitches
  
• A top plate: http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/planck/planck-top-plate-grd or http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/planck/planck-top-plate-mit
  
• A bottom: http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/planck/planck-standard-bottom (make sure you include the assembly kit)
  
• Keycaps: http://ortholinearkeyboards.com/planck/dsa-keycaps (If you're using the grid layout, make sure to set that option when you order)
  
  Tools
  
  You'll also need to get a soldering iron. Something like this should work fine (I have a cheap soldering iron I bought from RadioShack 10 years ago that I still use on all my electronics projects).
  
  Good luck! :)

By esteps I mean extruder steps. The number of steps the stepper motor has to turn to push out 1 mm of filament. Generally you can calibrate this by telling it to extrude 100 mm of filament and measuring how much it actually extruded. I don't know specifics of your printer but you should be able to find information about your specific printer indicating if that is something most people do. Here is the procedure for a different printer, it will give you some idea what to look for for yours: https://3dprinterwiki.info/extruder-steps/

To clear out a potential clog take off your nozzle and hold it in front of a heat gun on high with pliers. The filament will pretty much evaporate away. Can use tiny nozzle cleaning drill bits, you can get on amazon or aliexpress, to clean out any that doesn't evaporate.

If you don't have a heat gun you can get them for $10-$20 at Harbor Freight or Amazon. This is the one I bought and it works well (looks like it has went up in price since I bought it though):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> its thicker than I remember

How old is the nozzle? Maybe it is worn and the hole is now bigger than 0.4mm? (brass nozzles are consumables if that is what you are using)

The capacitor was nothing fancy, just a 2200uF capacitor. Apparently that one capacitor tends to be a bit of an issue in that model of player for whatever reason...

I'm pretty sure that the iron I have is this one along with a holder that looks just like this one, though I'd have to go double-check the iron to be sure that's the one I have. Seems to work pretty well, and you can replace the stock tip with this little pointy one to work on small stuff better.

How long does this thing need to run? Using AA or even a 9 V is very heavy, a LiPo is expensive.... Do you really need it to last a week?

The 5 V pro micro consumes 19.9 milliamps in active mode, so using 6 SR416SW watch batteries (8 mAh) in series will provide an operating life of (8 mAh / 19.9 mA) = .4 hr = 24 minutes. Using 6 watch batteries of a higher capacity (SR44SW) could get you up to 8.8 hours of operating time. Using AA batteries would get you over 100 hours at a significant cost in weight.

There's no sense in carrying any more battery than required. You can always use solder-glue to connect wires to the batteries, which is probably easier than figuring out how to hold the batteries in some sort of clip.

When finding batteries you just need to take the battery capacity in mAh (current*time) and divide it by the current draw you plan on giving it - the quotient will be the operating life of your device in whatever unit of time you chose to do the math in (probably hours).

Your strategy should be to start with a desired operational lifetime, and then from this number work backwards to find a battery capacity that suits your needs. Don't forget to add some margin - so maybe buy the size up from the battery your math specified.

Hey, best tip i can give you to get better is to find junk printers, motherboards, ect... and just practice de-soldering and re-soldering caps, resistors, anything that just has two pins. Also I would also suggest lowering the temp on the Iron (if you can) I use about 320 C for most of my stuff, and I would also recommend getting a good soldering iron it helps a lot. The soldering Iron I would recommend the TS100 with the D24-Tip, then look online for how to set it up.
If you like you can contact me by discord, and I can help you with what ever you need, (my discord Demi 소금#9026)

One last thing is that Twisting and pre-tinning the wires is almost a must when soldering anything.

Soldering Tip(D24-Tip) : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYR3VTJ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=A2FGAWCX62OR7U&psc=1

Soldering Iron: https://www.amazon.com/NovelLife-Mini-TS100-Soldering-Digital/dp/B07D35B75T/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=1PGZOPAOX1MUO&keywords=ts100+soldering+iron&qid=1557599888&s=gateway&sprefix=ts100%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

I just ordered components to make my first box mod, but have done small electrical work before.

Helping Hands will make your life much easier, may not be necessary if you only intend to make one mod.

a decent digital multimeter is required, as is a Soldering iron.

A Breadboard is very useful to ensure everything works as it should, before you have it all finished and put in the case.

those are all I can think of right now, sure there are others people use regularly though

This was my first iron, though under a different branding. It's only $16, and it has a knob you can spin that at least loosely correlates w/ the iron's temperature.

I wouldn't recommend it, though. I splurged for a Hakko FX-888D a couple of months later and haven't regretted it once. It truly is a night-and-day difference. Working with my old iron was like pulling teeth. Working with the Hakko is effortless.

I'd definitely recommend an upgrade. If you're un(willing|able) to spend $100+ on a soldering iron, I'd recommend still getting the first one I linked, along with some Hakko tips. Hakko tips are about 10-20x as expensive as their no-name counterparts, and you absolutely get what you pay for.

Easily the most frustrating part of using my first iron was how quickly the tips would oxidize, even though I kept them tinned religiously. Hakko tips, when cared for, will last indefinitely. I wouldn't be surprised if nice tips + cheap (but temperature controlled) iron got you 70% of the performance of the all-Hakko kit.

A couple of things come to mind:

A) Cool.

B) Instead of drilling through your stencils, I recommend using a finishing nail or an awl and banging pilot divots. This centers and guides the drill bit, and keeps you from killing your stencil, just in case.

3) Try heat shrink tubing. It's not terribly expensive, it's fun to use, and it makes you look clever.

D) In the event that you ever want people to think that you are very clever, get a decent soldering iron. If you have a lot of extra money to throw around, get a fancy Weller station. If not, I recommend the adorable Hakko FX-888. Now that the analog version has been discontinued, it's hard to find on sale, but... they're fantastic. If you want to feel fancy, you could get something like this. Look at all those bits! I don't know either!

Haha, completely self taught through trial and error, thanks! Having the right kind of paste flux and magnification helps. I’ve also purchased one of these to help keep things steady with this and future jobs.

QuadHands Helping Hands Third Hand Soldering Tool and Vise
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GIKVP5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Oh.MBb478C70E

This took me 5 minutes to put together.

Commercial Version:
hobby creek version

Materials List:

• coolant hoses
  
  
• alligator clips
  
  
• A solid piece of wood
  
• some heatshrink
  
• some hotglue...
  
  

1. The threaded connector on the hoses is a 1/2"-20 thread. So grab a spade bit or 1/2" bit and drill as many holes as you want into your base.
   
   
2. Don't make the mistake I made and either use a dense hardwood for the weight, or offset the mounting holes further back so it doesn't tip forward.
   
   
3. Insert the coolant hoses and hot glue from the bottom then around the base and let that set
   
   
4. drill the tube openings to the diameter of the alligator clip arm (about 1/4") but make sure it's snug, smaller is better than bigger.
   
   
5. shoot some glue into the tube opening as well as the alligator clip
   
   
6. slide on a tiny piece of heatshrink onto the tube
   
   
7. push the alligator clip into the tube then heat the heatshrink around the connection (I used marine heatshrink which has a built in heat activated adhesive to help this connection)
   
   
8. grab some rubber dots or no slip feet and stick them on the bottom of your base board.
   
   The amazon link I linked to sells the hoses in packs of 6 so you can make one for yourself and a friend, or do what hobby creek did and fix 4 arms to the base (which in my opinion is a little overkill).
   
   It's not 100% rigid, but for a $9 build, it's "rigid enough".

Okay, I've never tried this but I would recommend trying to use 1206 SMD LEDs, they're about 1/8x1/16 of an inch. The one I linked makes a red-orange when lit and runs about $10 for 100 LEDs. Since you need it to look like trailer lights I'd connect them with hard steel, like a paperclip bent/cut how you need it. 1206 is pretty big for SMD LEDs, but in case you can't solder it you can use electrically conductive adhesive. Just dip the end of the wire in there and get it to stick to the LED or apply with a toothpick.

I have only used it on my bike a couple times, but I love my Weller Portasol

It heats up fast, solders well, and the little butane exhaust port on the tip works perfectly for shrink tube.

IMAGE 1:

1 - OtterBox Drybox 3250 (Keeps my stuff dry when hoofing it through the rain)

2 - Oakley Juliet Carbon, Black Iridium, with Pouch

3 - Victorinox SwissChamp XLT with Pouch (I've disassembled and repaired laptops using only this tool, it's got everything)

4 - Sony Earbuds (Galaxy S4 Active does not have an FM radio, earbuds acts as antenna for HTC phone's FM radio)

5 - Toshiba Canvio Connect 2TB Portable Hard Drive (There's a complete backup of my PC as well as about 1,200 movies on it)

6 - Dayan GuHong 3x3x3 Speed Cube 6-Color Stickerless V2

7 - Moleskine Classic Notebook, Pocket, Plain Paper, Hard Cover, Black, with Zebra F-301 Ballpoint, Sanford Protouch II Mechanical Pencil, and Staedtler Mars Plastic Eraser

8 - Rechargeable Backup Battery (Got it for $10 at Micro Center, great for a quick top-up when I'm in the field, or in a field)

9 - Armani Exchange Leather Logo Embossed Card Case

10 - SanDisk Cruzer Fit 16GB USB Flash Drive x 2 (One Bit-Locker encrypted with PortableApps, and one YUMI bootable with PCLinuxOS, BackTrack, HIREN, and LiberKey)

11 - Importer520 Micro USB OTG Male To USB Female Adapter For Samsung Galaxy S4 Active (Allows me to plug almost any USB device into my Galaxy S4)

12 - Samsung Charger, with retractable USB to Mini-USB cable, and Mini-USB to Micro-USB adapter (Charges both phones, bluetooth headphones, bluetooth keyboard, backup battery, and connects hard drive to phone or PC)

13 - Honest 503 Butane Jet Pencil Torch (Also doubles as a quick and dirty soldering torch)

14 - Rii Touch 330 Bluetooth Keyboard

15 - HTC Inspire 4G (Backup Phone)

16 - Hybrid Case for Samsung Galaxy S4 Active (Taking Photo) (This thing is a beast, water and dust proof, it has pretty much negated my need to carry around a laptop, especially with TeamViewer installed. I was also able to wade across a river with it fully submerged in my pocket while on vacation last year.)

17 - Quikcell S160 Stereo Bluetooth Wireless Headset

18 - Casio PRW2500-1 (Solar powered, with every environmental sensor that my phone doesn't have)

IMAGE 2:

Packed Armani Exchange Ripstop Messenger Bag

Packed Otterbox (Goes in bag)

IMAGE 3:

Thermos E20600 (Goes in bag, quite literally keep ice for 24 hours, utterly amazing)

I can't really say anything about this soldering iron, but do know that you always get what you pay for. I'm sure this will last for at least several soldering jobs for you. If you have to replace it even once, you're only $20 away from a nice unit. But I understand you have to budget your funds appropriately.


If you're going to to go with a budget soldering iron, you'll be better off buying something without a bunch of extra bells and whistles (more junk you're paying extra for).

Something like this is cheap, and inexpensive, but will get the job done, without spending extra dollars on extra tidbits that are unnecessary.

If you're gonna go cheap, go cheaper!

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-Medium-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG6UQ

Me as well.
Also consider one of these. They get recommended pretty regularly.

But, honestly, my zippo+jet drop-in like what /u/katmaipinnacles recommended has worked just fine so far.

Far and away my favorite is this from Amazon. The 503 torch is sold by a ton of sellers, holds a copious amount of butane, easily adjusts flame height, and includes a soft flame.

Its pretty much perfect and even fits snugly in my herfadors.

Thanks for your interest!

The acrylic case comes with a plate, and I'm working on my next order of aluminum plates to go with those. If you want an acrylic plate you can get that now. You are correct that the aluminum plate sold separately is for the aluminum case.

I'm not currently offering soldering for LED's, but I may in the future. You can get someone on /r/mechmarket to do that, or you can pick up some quite reasonably priced soldering irons on amazon. It's cheaper than my assembly fee. :)

The layout you want to do has been physically verified on my Danger Zone board: http://i.imgur.com/Le0hEpH.jpg

The middle layer is hard to do because it's 0.34" thick, which is an unusual size. I can get orange for other layers, and in fact have been considering it lately.

That carbon mockup is looking pretty sweet.

I just bought this off Amazon to do soldering related projects with my pi.
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BSW69LI/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1419892846&sr=1&keywords=aoyue+soldering
I haven't had a chance to test it out yet but the reviews seem good and from the research that I did, the brand is pretty good

I was thinking something like this:

http://www.frys.com/product/2931025

but I have not actually done it.


I once broke off the end of touchpad ribbon cable for a laptop -- I scraped the new end with an exacto knife and inserted into connector and another soldered to a board.

they also have conductive greese:

http://www.frys.com/product/4707359

If you do that you would need to put little bit on the traces and then drops of super glue on both sides and between each trace.

Or this on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Electrically-Conductive-Soldering-Wire/dp/B000Z9H7ZW

and maybe you can find something like this in the auto parts store

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-21351-Electrically-Conductive-Defogger/dp/B000HBGKWE


And, oh yeah, that stuff you linked at RadioShack looks good, too.


The scraping part will be hard to do without breaking so be carefull.

Hmmm. Let's see ...

• I have this soldering iron. - The variable temperature setting is a plus.
  
  
• A soldering tip cleaner is a must - When soldering, torched residue builds up quickly.
  
  
• If you plan on biverting a DMG, you'll definitely need some desoldering wick. - The pump is a bonus. It's really useful if you ever have to cleanly remove a component from a board.
  
  
• If you plan on biverting a DMG, you'll need to lift 2 pins (after removing some solder). The easiest way to do this is with a dental pick.
  
  
• If you're near a Walmart, their house brand ("Hyper Tough") sells a VERY good precision screwdriver kit. - I'm not exactly sure if this is the right one, but it looks JUST like this in-stores. It's only $6 and comes with all of the necessary "Y" tips to open a Gameboy, GB Pocket, GB Advance, etc.

I have this one. Haven't run into any issues. Granted this is NOT a rework station. But it's the same model they are issuing in Fed labs. $135 gets you great soldering iron which wide range adjustable temps, set of various tips, though if you are doing ISP you'll want the very fine tips...I'll have to find the number for the ones I use...The only other thing you would want for ISP is decent magnification to work under.

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-T18-B-D24-599-029/dp/B00C2BHTBI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1525274929&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hakko+soldering+station&psc=1

Opinions on these three soldering irons? It's only use will be for keyboards, and I don't anticipate building them as often as we all dream, haha. But I do want one that'll do the job well without going over the $100 mark, and preferably under $80 if any of these are decent.

Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MQD7M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pBXMAb3DXH857

Hakko FX601-02 Adjustable Temperature Controlled Soldering Iron, 67 Watts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPSX3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UDXMAbYNHEAWS

UY CHAN Upgraded Original TS100 Digital OLED Programmable Pocket-size Smart Mini Outdoor Portable Soldering Iron Station Kit Embedded Interface DC5525 Acceleration Sensors STM32 Chip Fast Heat (B2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDTO6X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CEXMAb7A2CDNW

For anyone reading this, a standard heat gun has a lot of uses, but is the great for efficiently cleaning the stock of cosmoline.

I'm not sure what you mean by "...more controlled way to connect each button to ground".

As far as connecting wires to pins, soldering is often the best way. A tutorial on soldering would probably be useful if you've never done it before. I recommend lead free solder, some flux, and a cheapo soldering iron with a finer chisel tip. Such as, this one. Or, something comparable. Flux: Rosin Flux. You want to make sure it's a thick rosin based flux otherwise you may have to obsessively your joint and the surrounding area.

​

Google images:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/gc_diagram1.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yy4Wdbp3cpM/VRYTb7T4fGI/AAAAAAAAAbU/AcAbPTgP05g/s1600/2015-03-27%2B17.22.34.jpg

http://gc-forever.com/mega/Ashen/Controller_Trimming/1.png

​

The button work by closing the circuit to ground. Personally. I would just solder the wires to the corresponding contacts on the PCB simply because it would make trouble shooting easier on an unknown board. A daisy chain could be fine, but only if all those grounds are a common ground, but with signals I'm not sure that can be relied upon. If they aren't a common ground, linking them could lead to unexpected/undesired behavior. You could probably use a voltmeter to carefully explore if they are a common ground, and if you find that they are, your daisy chain idea would probably be fine. I would use solder and cover joints with shrink tubing.

If you are willing to drop a little bit of coin, but don't want to go too crazy this guy is pretty popular: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=33Z9SEU0RU74U&coliid=I177ELVX243CET

For starting out, and into the foreseeable future, one like this would probably server you just fine: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NKUS-Watt-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG7F0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421030141&sr=1-2&keywords=weller+soldering+iron

When your lighter runs out of fuel, it is important to purge and refuel properly. This may be the problem. Who knows? I got a lighter with a 5 pack that also sucked.

This lighter is a pretty good deal, a few of us have one. I have a $60 lighter, but to be honest it's not that much better for doing the same job. I have had this lighter for over a year, it does the same thing. My old standby is a $5 torch from walmart.

I would encourage you to give wood matches a try.

Well, it's not ideal for electronics, but 20USD will get you a 40W Weller iron. For larger joints it's fine, but definitely not great for small stuff/temperature sensitive work.

Keep in mind that for a mere 45USD, Sparkfun sells this temperature controlled iron. Granted it's not in stock right now.. but it's a darn good price for a regulated station.

Actually, I'm really excited to try something ...


I want to lay out the board in plastic, maybe 1mm, with grooves for wires to run. Then, I want to leave holes, probably 2mm diameter, that will fit two wires, or 1 wire and one pin. If I can design it on one layer, or at least with minimal overlap, I can make a second piece that glues down to it, and make all the solder connections with solder glue (http://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Electrically-Conductive-Soldering-Wire/dp/B000Z9H7ZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426020527&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+glue)


So, ideally, I could spend all my time in design, and end up with something that can be printed/assembled in about an hour.


I'm thinking I could use the 3D printer to emboss the logo over the battery-cover, and leave the micro-controller and Flash chip bare.


Like I said, I think I've probably gone too far down the rabbit hole on this one. I've got the whole thing laid out in my head. I'll probably just order parts this week, and start working as soon as they get here.

I would add that the soldering iron must have a pointy tip! I've been trying to replace my modules, but the stock tips are huge (for the intended work) I could not reach the spots to melt.
The one i'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Also, be sure that the Torx are Security Torx! They have the hollow star shape and also an inside round tip. https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sbs_469_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&pd_rd_r=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR&pd_rd_w=jAo1O&pd_rd_wg=DYMkI&psc=1&refRID=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR

>Copy pasta'ed from my post a few months ago:

After doing some research, here are my top 3 budget soldering iron options. Thoughts?

My $4 Harbour Freight iron's tip is dissolving, and it's time I got a new iron. I don't solder super often, maybe a handful of times a month, so I can't really justify getting a nice $40 Weller soldering station. My budget is around $30. After doing some Google-Fu, and browsing through Amazon and Ebay, here are my top 3 budget choices:

• [Vastar Soldering Iron Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01712N5C4?tag=bestseekers-20)
  
• [Sywon Soldering Iron Kit] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1ISGH0?tag=bestseekers-20)
  
• [Aoyue 469 Soldering Station] (https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-Variable-Soldering-Station-Removable/dp/B00MCVCHJM)
  
  I'm open to suggestions, comments, and questions regarding these choices. The Sywon Soldering Iron kit has nothing I really care about over the Vastar one, aside from a slightly nicer stand and sponge, and of course the carrying case. The Aoyue 469, being the only soldering station on the list, doesn't come with any flashy accessories unfortunately. A solder sucker would be nice, and I'll probably be glad of the extra tips that are included wit the two kit irons. However, if you guys think that the Aoyue 469 soldering station would be better quality, I might be willing to shell out a few bucks more for it, and pick up another tip or two.
  
  
  https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/8bugth/after_doing_some_research_here_are_my_top_3/

I've heard a helping hand kit like this is significantly better than the traditional ones you see everywhere. There's a DIY guide on how to make that one on Instructables.

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

I personally think you should've gone for one of these. A much better experience and a better price, I use it for everything and is super convenient because of how small it is.

I'm shocked no one has mentioned the 503 torch that we all love and adore here. While only being a single torch, it holds a TON of butane. It's really a great product.

I just bought this and this when i swapped my MX switches out. I mean i guess if you want to get into the SMD hobby it wont be the best, but for just general stuff or using it once in a blue moon to mod your KB it's been perfectly fine.

Oh and this and this helped alot.

Nice. Get yourself a ceramic tip tweezers and a torch if you don't already.

It makes building coils a lot easier by not having to put your atty on a mod to heat up the coil. You can just hold the coil with ceramic tweezer and heat it up with torch.

Happy vaping!

Yeah, funny, you know? I want a reason to have a cool lighter.

I think maybe the closest thing would be something like this.

Consider [this Aoyue soldering station] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006FA481G). It's really great for the price. I've been using one for a couple of years for through-hole and surface mount work, and I've been very happy with it.

This is a good option from amazon, and compatible with HAKKO 900 series tips if you want to upgrade them later. You can save a few bucks by getting from banggood, same iron, but the stand they include is not as good. The hobbyking $20 station is great too, but unless you're getting other stuff from hobbyking, the shipping costs makes it more expensive than the Amazon one.

I just ordered 3x digital temp control switch for $10.80 shipped. Also 3x 3 pin fan controllers for $7.17 shipped. Along with a few different 4 pin and 3 pin fan plugs and adapters. New Weller 40w soldering pencil for <$20 after 20% discount.

I'm ready to automate my fans! :D I'm hoping to run 2 thermostats and 2 fans from one DC 12v psu. I'm thinking something like exhaust starts at a lower temp, like 71.6F/22C, and stops at 68F/20C; intake starts at 80F/27C, and stops at 75F/24C. Give or take a few degrees..

The counterfeit isn't a bad counterfeit, some people even like it more than the original. If you can get it for significantly cheaper then go for it, just don't buy it for anywhere near the price of a non counterfeit item.

There is another one you can get for about 60% of the cost called the TS100, it's a pretty quality iron https://www.amazon.com/Programmable-Pocket-size-Soldering-Interface-Acceleration/dp/B01MDTO6X7/

This is a good point regarding the pointy tip. I have several different tips that my soldering iron came with. Not using the pointiest but still is coming to a point. Here's what I have, works pretty well. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4571Q6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes heat guns arent designed for the high heat of roasting. I found this one to be pretty good. The plastic sheath falls off though. I keep a spare and alternate them when back to back roasting. I do a lb at a time in a breach machine. Takes 12-15min or so depending on beans.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EU2T8GG

I have an aouye 968A+, it has very precise controls for both the heat gun and pencil. great value. amazon and sra soldering have complete kits including parts, it's better to buy from them than on ebay.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006FA481G

This is the one I have. Have used it several times to fix tops and wet spots and it works great! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It looks like people have mostly got you started here in terms of supplies. In terms of tools though, this is what I keep in my rebuilding stuff (linking to Amazon just because its easier):

• Small screwdriver set OR Hex set OR a combo set. Which one will depend on the RBA you get, but eventually you'll probably find yourself with ones that have Phillips and Hex screws.
  
• Butane Torch. You can get this same one on Fasttech for $4 if you don't mind the shipping time.
  
• Wire cutters, either full size or micros
  
• Pliers, I also have a set of channel locks accessible, but not in my normal kit, mainly to try and get my Bombshell Stinger apart
  
• A generic desk light or something like helping hands can save a lot of headaches.
  
• Cheap multimeters can be found from $5 - $20
  
• Exacto knife because knives always come in handy at some point (rule #9)
  
  Other generic stuff:
  
  
• Toothpicks (great for wrapping coils around)
  
• Cotton swabs, cotton balls and paper towels
  
• Bic lighter
  
• Scissors for cutting wick (I use the wire cutters, but if you have micros, 3mm wick might get messy/frayed)

I recently bought one of these for myself and I couldn't be happier as a DIY hobbyist:

Hakko Dial type temperature limiting soldering iron FX600

I only use it for hobby stuff such as Quadcopters, 3D printers and electronics kits but it's way better than the 8watt USB powered I was using before.

Pair it with this and this and you should be good for a while and roughly within budget.

The BEST value IMO, is this. After I got this, I regret getting my hakko.

If you plan on taking it further than just simple mods a couple times a year, I recommend spending a little more if you can. You don't have to go crazy either. I know that a lot of people go the Hakko or Weller route, but I've been very happy with my Aoyue 9378. Here is the Aoyue 937+ which is cheaper (45w vs 60w and a couple other things). Like others have said, get some wick and grab one of these over the sponge crap.

EDIT: Oh, and pick up some flux. There are flux fans and some that use it sparingly, but just pick it up.

Also, this goes much further than just installing a battery holder, but check out Voultar's videos to watch some technique. He's also a liberal flux / No Clean user and you'll see why.

Don't use lead free solder, ever. Use rosin core, use a good solding iron.

Good solder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKF13JY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KQKdAb2SRMP17

Good soldering iron
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MDTO6X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8TKdAbNTRP60A

Can't go wrong with this, $19.07 shipped with Prime.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-Medium-Soldering-Black/dp/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1398198851&sr=8-3&keywords=weller+40

If you need something safe for smaller projects as well, this would be fine. $41.19 with Prime
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398198808&sr=8-2&keywords=weller+40

I guess I'm a fan of weller products. I've had them at home and a shop. I got one of their higher end soldering stations when I was about 11 to build my own battery packs for my R/C cars and it saw a lot of use. Back then we hardwired the leads from the ESC to the motors and batteries between heats for the lowest resistance. (not to mention deans plugs weren't a thing yet, tamiya connectors would melt together with a hot motor/battery combo) I still have it over 20 years later.

I would say 40 watts is about the standard with typical R/C projects. Also, the lower end brands 40 watt irons don't ever seem to create the heat as something of decent quality.

Also, if you don't have something like this yet, pick one up. $7 shipped all over Amazon. Also available at Harbor Freight for about the same price if you have those in your area.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Hands-Magnifying/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=pd_sim_hi_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TB7X5RYFKZ3SR4EXY1P

Easy fix. Anyone saying to cut the loop off has never actually strength tested these loops.

Watch the end of this video.

To fix your loop instead of cutting it off, buy polyolefin tubing. 3-5mm should be about right.

Next, buy a heat gun.

Cut a short length of tubing, slide it over the end of your line, and waft the heat gun so the tubing shrinks and the line inside it liquefies but does not burn. Let it cool, then peel the heat shrink back off (use a pair of tying scissors to snip it and get it started so you can peel it).

It'll be good as new. You can also cut that one off and make another if you want a new loop. Fly lines have about 2 feet of level tip material to allow for this kind of cutting.

No knot is as strong as a welded loop. Welded loops were about 3X stronger on average than every knot I tested, sometimes more. Here is my original thread on the tests I did.

Here are the results of my strength tests for the Fly Rod & Reel article:

Knot Break Strength - Tested to failure with Boga Grip using 20 lbs. monofilament

|Knot | Test 1 | Test 2|
|---------|----------|----------|
|Nail Knot (5 Turns) | 10 lbs. | 10 lbs.|
|Albright Knot (5 Turns) | 12 lbs. | 12 lbs.|
|Doubled-Line Nail Knot| (6 Turns) 8 lbs. | 10 lbs.|
|Double Surgeon’s Knot | (20 lb. to 20 lb.) 14 lbs. | 18 lbs.|
|Castwell Knot | 13 lbs. | 12 lbs.|
|Welded Loop | 20 lbs. X 3 attempts (see video)|

It is 25w but I would question the efficiency of a 25w soldering iron from the 50s....

If you feel you need one stronger, and don't need the practice boards:

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Temperature-Soldering-additional/dp/B014KBIB3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465916565&sr=8-1&keywords=soldering+kit+50w

That Weller has power settings, not heat settings, it is as unregulated a $5 Harbor Freight one. It looks like the one OP has is actually temperature controlled.

Here is a similar one to the OP's. It takes Hakko 900M series tips and is actually temperature controlled. I've used one that a friend bought and it did just fine.

The process is easy, just tweeze (long handles help, it gets hot fast), torch until it glows, and cool off (15 seconds or so).

Cheap option on amazon here (<$9) : http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-Pencil-Welding-Soldering-Lighter/dp/B007A9YSPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395645522&sr=8-1&keywords=butane+torch

RipTrippers uses this one: (has a standard cheapo lighter under the hood, $20) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Turbo-Torch-Combo-Pack-LTT-110CP/203456954

I use the torch from my creme brulee kit, but a simple torch lighter would work, as well.

Just search for Soldering kits on Amazon, there are many. One feature you want is to be able to adjust the soldering iron's heat level. (Example: https://www.amazon.com/Sywon-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B01E1ISGH0/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482397099&sr=1-6&keywords=Soldering+Kit)

YouTube has TONS of soldering videos. (Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxASFu19bLU).

You also might want to look into some of the more elaborate Raspberry Pi kits, they typically come with a bread board for circuit prototyping as well as a bunch of extra goodies like a Pi Camera module, Arduino boards, etc... (Example: https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Modules-Sensor-Raspberry-Extension/dp/B014PF05ZA/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482396929&sr=1-13&keywords=Raspberry+Pi+3)

With such a kit, you'll be able to explore a ton of the Pi's functionality.

Here's my suggestion:

• Hakko FX888D Soldering Station
  
  
• Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter
  
  
• MG Chemicals 63/37 No Clean Leaded Solder
  
  
• MG Chemicals No Clean Super Wick Desoldering Braid
  
  How to use it and getting your soldering technique right:
  
  
• EEVblog #180 - Soldering Tutorial Part 1 - Tools
  
  
• EEVblog #183 - Soldering Tutorial Part 2

Shouts to the Ben heck show and Felix for showing me these it's amazing. ive used the normal kind but these are far better

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010C504NK/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1473117368&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soldering+helping+hands

Yes, that's how you're supposed to do it. You can try heating it up and using a soldering tip cleaner, but if that won't scrub it off you'll need a new tip.

I second /u/MuffleTheFox's suggestion though, if you're going to get into electronics you should invest a couple bucks in a soldering station. I picked up this one (which
isn't quite a soldering station) and even that's worlds better than a non-adjustable stick iron.

Those are fine but honestly you don't need all those extra bit and bobs.

Just get the same basic soldering iron off Amazon, a desoldering iron like this one or a desoldering pump.

Build Your Own Clone

I doubt you'd keep track of any more websites I could mention above once you find a few kits there. As far as equipment goes, get:

A decent soldering iron ... Alternative (please also get this with the alternative)

Solder

Micro Cutters to trim leads

Hopefully you have a small flat-head screwdriver to set knobs and a small flat pair of pliers to attach hardware to the enclosures.

I doubt you'd need to but if you ever need to get any components that aren't supplied with a kit, go to Tayda Electronics for nearly any part (they tend to be cheapest for hobbyists, you can find anything from passive components like resistors and capacitors, to knobs/switches/audio and power jacks, etc.).

You can try something like a conductive glue and apply it with a toothpick.

http://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Electrically-Conductive-Soldering-Wire/dp/B000Z9H7ZW

In the reviews on there some guy talks about how he fixed an internal connector on his phone with it so worth a shot I suppose. I think taking it to a professional might cost you enough to warrant actually buying a second hand replacement phone if you so desire.

As cute as that is. My god the hits are going to be harsh! Try using a soldering iron for clean vape hits!

Hakko makes good ones. My dad's experience with Wellers are they die fast. (He solders all day for his business/I do it as a hobby). There is one that has a temp adjustment on the unit itself, which is pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MQD7M4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the one I got him. he has been using it for four months, daily and all day. Still on the same tip.

Helping Hands Third Hand Soldering Tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010C504NK/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A small vise or helping hand can be invaluable, if using a helping hand I recommend wrapping the alligator clip hands in a couple layers of electrical tape as they can be quite sharp and scratch up connectors and such. Since there's virtually no risk in damaging components, most soldering irons between 60-120W should work well. Any 60/40 rosin core solder will work, if you're unable to get leaded solder due to local regulations, I've heard the 99% tin stuff is decent, again just make sure it has rosin core. A smaller tip might be beneficial if using smaller connectors such as 2.5mm. A solder sucker and wick is useful if any mistakes are made. Lastly, a DMM is helpful to make sure there are no shorts and that all connections have continuity and low resistance.

Yeah, so far this is the frontrunner. Thanks for the comment!

Well damn it. Thanks a ton for the help. Is this really all I need? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESUKNXG?psc=1

Ones similar to this are recommended a lot on this sub.

Some people like Xikar lighters because the lifetime warranty.

I've used both of these for a couple of years without any problems.

This maybe, or this. I spent no more than that on mine and it's seen me through 6 builds/rebuilds so far, and it's still working.

A proper soldering station is nice, but you can definitely get by with cheap stuff, especially if you don't plan on using it a ton.

i love this

I would stay away from the cheap no-name all in one solutions. They tend to be pretty crappy. Look at some of the nicer options from Hakko or Weller. You really only need a 100$ish soldering iron to do incredible work (obviously nicer IS better, but the returns are diminishing). Check out this one from Hakko: Hakko FX888D,T18-B,BL,I,D24,D32,C05,S7,599-029 Soldering Station with T18-B/BL/I/D24/D32/C05/S7/599-029 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2BHTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ohkZDb6WW5TJY

That set meets all of your needs and more. That, plus a cheap air station like this: BACOENG 110V Digital 858D SMD Hot Air Rework Station Solder Blower Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRQX15Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ojkZDbTDPH5PN

and a cheap extractor, and you are more then set.

Why not both? Literally. The 503Torch does both a torch and soft flame. Although, I rarely use it for a torch since I have a Vertigo Cyclone torch.

What I have started doing lately is toast the foot with my torch and then switch over to a soft flame to finish lighting it. I have found that I get a great burn that way and don't overdo it lighting it with the torch.

Not too spendy and works great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007A9YSPW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1394249757&sr=8-2

This is what I use to repair old consoles
Weller SP40NKUS 40-Watts Soldering Iron Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3SG7F0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5koSCbHNHK4S6
It's inexpensive and works great.

All you need is some solder and wick and this will literally only take a couple mins and you have a fixed Atari

Hand vise: IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed Bar Clamp, Heavy-Duty, 6", 1964711 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VND4X0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_SKWbD2mBTHRZ9

Steel plates: Round Hot Rolled Steel Plate 1/4" x 4" Diameter Circle (Pack of 2!) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YWBU1P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Mdufzb3Q4YDXK

Epoxy: J-B Weld 8297 HighHeat 550 Degree Epoxy Putty Stick - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PP26RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ieufzbQD017AS

And turns out my stove is way easier to heat up the steel plates. But if you're interested in a heat gun I bought this one: Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit, Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pfufzbAPGCZ11


Sorry about the formatting, I'm on mobile

Hi all, my goal is to construct a fluid bed roaster capable of roasting a half-pound of coffee per go.

For the motor, I'm looking at this electric leaf blower, and for the heating element, I'm looking to dissect this heat gun.

I'll use a pyrex baking tube, and a cocktail shaker to cap it off at the base. And then some machining magic to couple it to the mounting pipe.

Does it seem like this will get hot enough to roast a 1/2 pound?

I'm trying to upgrade from my current popper setup which can roast a max of 60 grams at a time (and that's with me constantly agitating with a shish kabob stick).

Edit: One possible improvement could be increasing the wattage of the heater to 2000W. Does anyone have a recommendation for a really cheap blower (or just the element itself)? Or would this water heater element work?

If I reclaim the air from the exhaust back into the pump, would this allow a 1500W heater to work?

I ordered This $17 Vastar about six months ago and have been very happy with it.

DeOxit is popular among vintage home audio collectors, however I'd guess that a pot in a car audio amp is not quite vintage enough to have exposed wipers. I'd replace it, personally.

A desoldering pump/wick is highly recommended.

This one is really good:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GIKVP5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Gx0ryb2535NT7
Shows out of stock on Amazon right now though.

That is not an electronics soldering iron. Depending on your budget, i'd recommend either this aoyue at $30 or this aoyue at $90 if you want a nice high quality station. The nicer one has the advantage of exact tempature measurements and also comes with a ton of extra sized tips.

As for the frame, its really not common to break arms as a beginner. Its REALLY hard to break an arm and you have to be going really fast and hit something really hard. The reason you may have read about arms breaking is because most beginners start with some cheap frame built with bad/thin carbon. The QAV250 wont break easily (although i've heard of the skinny part in the top frame breaking, but that can just be glued/taped back together).

Buy something cheap then if you find you’re using it often then go for Weller or Hakko. My brother swears by the Hakko but I use a Weller. But I highly recommend buying stuff when you need it.

Aoyue makes a few similar rework stations for a lot less money than Hakko or others, like this one: Aoyue 968A+ SMD Digital Hot Air Rework Station. I've found their irons to be nicer than the lower end Wellers for the same price, and almost as nice as the much more expensive Hakko stuff. Just a quick tip for anyone who might find one occasionally useful, but doesn't need one daily.

Can I get your guys opinion on this one?

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BSW69LI/ref=cm_sw_em_r_am_wp_am_ca?ie=UTF8

I've had it in my cart for almost a month now and I'm thinking I might pull the trigger. Currently I'm limping along with a $12 soldering iron from radio shack that's probably 15 years old.

Thanks!

I like the portasol https://www.amazon.com/Weller-P2KC-Professional-Self-igniting-Soldering/dp/B000WOHSHM

because you can adjust the heat to do small or large jobs. and because you dont need an extension cord, its perfect for car work.

but just keep an eye on the tip so you dont burn it. if it turns blue, back it down. you just want it hot enough to get the work done.

Genesis GHG1500A Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit with Four Metal Nozzle Attachments https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KJ6XCb0YS1FW2

This is the one I got, for less than $20. Great buy.

As for gear how about these? Also what do you recommend

Tightvac


Lighter


Smoke Buddy

Grinder

Pipe

those solder suckers are bulky and a bit akward to use. These (below) work just as well as the bigger ones and can be used with one hand easily enough (https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Desoldering-solder-Length-Removal/dp/B01ESUKNXG/ref=pd_sim_328_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01ESUKNXG&pd_rd_r=1RRJG43KPE2SYH7RZJEX&pd_rd_w=CzypZ&pd_rd_wg=2nk8D&psc=1&refRID=1RRJG43KPE2SYH7RZJEX)

>a reflow oven costs a lot of money, and a homemade one might burn down the house. A frying pan on the other hand >.>

You can get a decent hot air rework station (with soldering iron) for under $200.


https://www.amazon.com/Aoyue-968A-Digital-Rework-Station/dp/B006FA481G/

I use this one at work all the time - Hakko FX-600

For $44, it's a good deal. You want an iron where you can set temperature and change the tips. A cheap chinese soldering station with temperature control will be in the $50-70 range.

A friend turned me on to these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A9YSPW

I use it as a backup/don't-care-if-I-lose-it lighter.

This looks pretty decent

thanks! this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESUKNXG

One more question... do you personally use wicks or a pump for desoldering? If you prefer a pump, can you recommend one?

Might go with this newer version because it comes with more tips.

I went on a little shopping spree for my DIY/rebuildable stuff. Picked up the following:

5 glass beakers, 50-1000ml
4 oz amber glass boston round bottles, pack of 12
2x pack of 6 2oz amber bottles w/droppers
2x 2pack 8oz amber bottles
[labels for bottles] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z5SM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
100count transfer pipettes
2 10 packs of 5ml blunt tip syringes
Heated ultrasonic cleaner (for quick steeping)

100ft A1 32 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 30 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 28 AWG kanthal
12ft 2mm braided hollow Ekowool
Pair of locking hemostats
butane pencil torch (for torching ekowool)
This genius little invention - everyone should buy this, it was like six bucks

other than that, a couple anyvape mini davide glass clearos because the protank 2 group buy I organized will likely not have a replacable drip tip, and I need at least 2 mini glass tanks that can take my bds60 from captivape.

i need me a fucking workshop, not sure where I'm going to put all this stuff...

proper way is to re-crimp like the rest of the folks said.

janky way is to use conductive glue

https://www.amazon.com/Sciplus-Electrically-Conductive-Soldering-Wire/dp/B000Z9H7ZW

if this is part of the heater, it wont work, but if it is a limit switch or something else, it should be fine.

a low-end one is good enough. just to solder the mill-max sockets.

that's what I did and this is what I used - https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40NUS-40-Watt-Soldering-Iron/dp/B00B3SG6UQ

just add the set of additional tips, so you have something other than a flat one.

https://www.amazon.com/QuadHands-Helping-Hands-Third-Soldering/dp/B00GIKVP5K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511884159&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=soldering+holder&psc=1

I have found this one to be much, much better.

op pls, you're giving me anxiety

I like weller:

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-P2KC-Professional-Self-igniting-Soldering/dp/B000WOHSHM/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1520028231&sr=1-6&keywords=butane+soldering+iron

Like 20 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.ca/Genesis-GHG1500A-Dual-Temperature-Green-1-Pack/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1421787663&sr=1-8&keywords=heat+gun

Would something like this help?

Yea like these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B010C504NK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467770529&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hobby+creek&dpPl=1&dpID=41dhZX8rUjL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MQD7M4/ref=psdc_3207126011_t1_B00FZPSX3G

Get a Hakko. If you plan on doing soldering at all more than just once or twice, it's a worthwhile investment.

I highly recommend spending a bit of money to get an actual heat gun, as opposed to a hairdryer. They're not that expensive (here's the one I have for $19), and they blow MUCH hotter than hair dryers. The advantage is that you can just sweep them across the model and the strings will basically vanish before your eyes. With a hairdryer you usually have to hold it in place for a second which can result in the warping

I know this is over your budget but I think it's worth it http://www.amazon.com/Updated-Aoyue-Digital-Soldering-absorber/dp/B006FA481G/ref=sr_sp-atf_image_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407708595&sr=1-3&keywords=aoyue+soldering+station

It's a little out of my price range. I doubt this will be my last soldering project, but it certainly won't be something I do every week. What do you think about Sywon 60W ESD Soldering Iron Station Kit with ON-OFF Switch Temperature Adjustable, Soldering Stand Holder, 5 Extra Tips and 104 Inch Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4571Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yi5MybQ1S7WEZ

the most popular opinions you're about to get will cost around $100

This one is $37
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006MQD7M4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I doubt you can find anything actually decent under $30. While I was in high school, I made do with a dollar store soldering iron, replacing it every few weeks wasn't too bad.

My business partner and I just started making our own cables in December. We use Switchcraft connectors (personal preference) and Canare Star Quad cable. It hasn't been too hard to learn on star quad. We use a Weller WES51 which is around $85.

Also recommend a brass sponge and this helping hands tool if you have the budget for it.

EDIT: Neither one of us had really soldered much before, but we did have someone showing us how to do it. So Quad-Core might be tough if you're totally trying to teach yourself.

Ive been using this for few months. Didnt run in to any issues whether it was for SMDs, Switches, and etc. If you want to try it out for yourself, just remember to take your time with it and you should be fine.

Soldering is really easy but it takes some practice beforehand. Grab something old that isn't being used anymore (or find something that someone left at the corner near their garbage can) and take it apart. Desolder some stuff and practice soldering it back on. Also, don't buy cheap junk, you don't need a $200 iron, but don't get one of the $5 irons off ebay either. I use these:


Weller Iron: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3SG7F0/

Solder: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G31N8Y/

Desoldering Pump: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QTGEL18/

I was in the same boat a few months ago. Got this one for $16 on amazon! https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GHG1500A-Temperature-Nozzle-Attachments/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=heat+gun&qid=1551148557&s=gateway&sr=8-3

quad hands there are probly better versions but I grabbed this one to be quick about it.

I would be careful using that in a computer. For electrical hobby kits and simple circuits it might work, but I would be wary of using it for anything else.

Here's a similar product with widely varying reviews. Some of which seem to confirm my fears. Others say differently, but I wouldn't risk it.

If you're able to solder, you're better off doing that, but it's your computer.

Boom. Same here. Only bought it to solder 2 keyboards and it did it's job just fine.

> Weller WD1

Seriously? If you're going to be dropping $400+ on a soldering station, then you buy some quality HW. JBC > Weller in precision soldering equipment.

OP is looking for something like a TS-100, or a FX-888

OP can buy cheaper if they're not planning to get into the hobby, but I'd suggest investing in a station with adjustable heat as a minimum.

You can buy power buttons premade online

If your looking for a cool button you'll need to find one that is a momentary switch so you can hold it in to force power off your pc

A button like this is pretty bitchin http://r.ebay.com/sdBS4d but you would need to find one that is momentary

I don't recommend soldering to the board in case you were thinking that. get a cable that connects to the mb and splice it/connect it to your switch

If your concerned about soldering you can use wire glue: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z9H7ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_F5OXzbPRZPQG1

They also sell glue which is electrically conductive. I'll try to find a link for you. You might try that.

Here it is: Sciplus 400.

Amazon search terms: electrically conductive adhesive

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014KBIB3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i22IybS6JXTXR

That's what I'm using. I didn't suggest it because Amazon is out of them. You can look for something similar.

If you want one that will last for years and years of use? Get a Weller Portasol. I have them and they are awsome little tools.

https://www.amazon.com/Weller-P2KC-Professional-Self-igniting-Soldering/dp/B000WOHSHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505077296&sr=8-1&keywords=Weller+portasol

Extreme overkill probably, but if you really want to spoil him...Best investment I have made tool-wise.

If he is just getting started I doubt he will need the hot-air rework side of things, but after a while soldering I wanted one for a long time before I actually got around to picking one up...

Mainly posting this here because I am a big Aoyue fan and everything here is Hakko and Weller.

I've used those, and they're kind of garbage. Once you've used this type, there is no going back.

Here is a comparable one, and OPs is definitely cheaper.

You wanna sear your steaks with a heat gun? I've melted butter and the like with one, I've even heated up food out of the fridge with one, so it should work. This is the one I used, on the highest setting. When I read the output temp with a thermometer it showed about 550 degrees F. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EU2T8GG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SRA-Solder has items on Amazon, they sell Aoyue products in the US.

this would blow your whole budget, but would set you up so you could solder almost anything.

Edited a profile to get your settings about right, should help.

https://files.fm/u/bbeq5kqk

Also heat guns eat up strings, just use quick passes once the gun is up to temp, if you linger on a miniature for more than 2 seconds you'll probably start to get deformations.

https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-GHG1500A-Temperature-Nozzle-Attachments/dp/B00EU2T8GG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1524940417&sr=1-1&keywords=heat+gun&dpID=41o%252BjfZKenL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I mean use a heat gun like one of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00EU2T8GG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525443704&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=heat+gun&dpPl=1&dpID=41o%2BjfZKenL&ref=plSrch

Tape. Just about any Tape will work. Don't any of you know about Led Throwies?
You can also buy (Wire Glue ) or make conductive glue (Elmer's Glue and powdered graphite).

Without seeing pictures I don't know if this would help, but they make a conductive glue that might be appropriate.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FA481G/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not the one I have...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FA481G/

psssst...

http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-Pencil-Welding-Soldering-Lighter/dp/B007A9YSPW

that one?

new torch? butane torches are cheap. http://www.amazon.com/BBQbuy-Pencil-Welding-Soldering-Lighter/dp/B007A9YSPW/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1382804081&sr=1-5&keywords=butane+soldering+torch

This is the one I have and it works for heating my titanium nail