(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best usb cables

No matter what you do, it's always better to start small. Start small, make small mistakes. Start big, make big mistakes. The important thing is to experience a little of everything while spending as little as possible. Then, you can make your money go further, to maximize your fun and experience.

Don't get all-in-one radios. They're expensive, and if you break something, nothing works. It's better to get a bunch of separate radios that are a lot cheaper, so if something breaks, you're not off the air.

u/ElectronSpiderwort recommended a Kenwood TM-D710GA:

• Kenwood TM-D710G, Kenwood TM-D710GA APRS Mobile Radio
  
  Absolutely consider getting this radio. Even if you get other radios, you will still love this one. You can do so many different things with it, it will keep you busy for a long, long time, even if that were the only radio you got. My favorite feature is the ability to send text messages. You can even send to cellphones via email. Each phone company has an email alias for SMS messages, so search for the SMS email address for the particular phone (phone company) you want to reach, and you can send text messages to that phone even the user is not licensed. They can watch your travel on a map if they want to see where you are.
  
  It's an expensive radio, but you can save a lot of money buying it used. People take care of these things, so you should have no trouble finding one in near-new condition. Buy two, one for your vehicle and one for home.
  
  A Mirage B-320-G 200 watt 2 meter amplifier is the only amplifier you will ever need, if you need one at all. It will work equally well with a handheld, or a mobile radio, and at 200 watts, it's not in the price-capability region where it's cheaper to just buy a dedicated high-power radio. You can buy it for a mobile, or buy it for a handheld, and eventually use it for both. It actually puts out about 240 watts at full power. That's impressive, and way more than you will ever need. If you put lower input power, it outputs lower power, so it basically covers everything, which is awesome.
  
  One HF radio I would like to have is a Motorola Micom 3, because it can work any HF frequency, and it does a great job of it, but it's almost $8000 with no accessories:
  
  
• motorola micom - Google Search
  
  Marine is a big part of life in Maine, and having access to marine frequencies could be helpful. I have forgotten if a Micom is type accepted for marine used, but if it is, you might save money by getting one. It's as good mobile as it is at home, and there's even a backpack version if that's your thing.
  
  A Motorola APX 8000 handheld costs about as much as a new Micom at $7000+, but you get 4 bands and lots of features. I would prefer to get a Yaesu FT-60R with the AA NiMH pack. It's cheap, works great, and it's designed for AA NiMH batteries! I currently use a Kenwood TH-F6A, which is much more expensive with amazingly fast scanning speed on 2 receivers simultaneously, but the radios I use the most are Motorola MT352R FRS radios I can buy nearly new after holidays for about $23 each (people return them and they get sold as "open box" or refurbished for half price). The performance beats any ham radios I have ever used, and they're so cheap you can loan them out like candy. I keep them in plastic bags so they're always clean and new, and nearly waterproof. They are also designed for AA NiMH! AA batteries are important. See r/AAMasterRace.
  
  I have a nice selection of fine quality BNC telescoping antennas tuned to all the frequencies I care about, from Smiley Antennas. Put a low profile BNC adapter on your new radio as soon as you get it, and get those big antennas from Smiley. The Kenwood TH-F6A goes down to 0.050 watts, so with a big antenna, you save battery above all. People think of antennas as being for a lot of various purposes, but they don't often think of battery life, because most radios can't go as low as the Kenwood TH-F6A. With the big antenna, the low power gets out just fine, and no matter how rich you are, batteries are bulky and heavy and it's always better if you don't need more of them. I got the biggest 2 meter and 440 MHz antennas Smiley makes. I got their tri-band antenna, and antennas tuned for FRS, MURS, marine, and probably a few other things I have forgotten. Be sure to mark your antennas so you know what frequencies they're tuned for.
  
  An ADS-SR1 simplex repeater with the larger memory option will get a lot more use out of all your handheld radios and mobile. It runs on AA batteries, and it has a voicemail system. It's not a lot of money to greatly expand your capability.
  
  I want an MTR3b_LCD, because it's the only radio small enough to EDC that can go around the world, on 40, 30, and 20 meters. Nobody else has a smaller, more capable radio. The radio, the antenna, and batteries, will all fit in your back pocket. Ridiculously amazing.
  
  Contact K1EL and tell him to make a Morse code keyer that emulates a USB keyboard, so you can practice Morse code in your routine PC usage at 45 WPM. You will become an expert very quickly that way.
  
  Begali Adventure Mono will work equally well portable as it does on a desk. If you buy one key, this will do it all. Don't get a 2-lever iambic key, they suck. All the fastest Morse code operators use single lever keys. NOBODY codes faster with an iambic key. NOBODY. I have no idea why people think they must have this useless feature. Palm Pico Single, N3ZN-SL (single lever), American Morse Equipment Mini-B, and any nice touch key, would round out your collection of keys. Again, avoid iambic 2 lever keys like the plague. They are poison.
  
  An Elecraft KX3 (10 watts) with a KXPA100 (100 watts), and a KPA500 (500 watts), along with all the other accessories like a PX3 (SDR waterfall display) etc, will cover all of your regular ham radio HF needs, from portable QRP, to high power at 500 watts. You will have a lot of flexibility with this setup, and it's not super expensive. The best part is Elecraft gear has a high resale value, so you will have no trouble dumping it if you decided it's not for you.
  
  If you like luxury gear, take a look at Elecraft's other radios. You might decide to buy nothing but Elecraft. A lot of people do, and Elecraft has rightfully earned that loyalty.
  
  Airspy HF+ SDR. It's the most bang for your buck, and outperforms most radios at any price, but it only costs about $160, if I remember correctly. You can never have too many inexpensive, high quality receivers.
  
  RTL-SDR. It's $30, and does everything up to gigahertz range with mediocre quality, which is what you would expect from a receiver that costs 5 times as much. This thing is versatile. When you just need to test something, or monitor something extra on the side, these are handy. Many people own 2 or more. I like to dedicate mine to monitoring FRS frequencies, because I wouldn't want to dedicate a more expensive receiver to such a low job. An RTL-SDR is probably the smartest first purchase you can make, especially if you believe in my "start small" philosophy. Even when you go big, you will still find uses for these things.
  
  
• AmazonSmile: RTL-SDR Blog R820T2 RTL2832U 1PPM TCXO SMA Software Defined Radio with 2x Telescopic Antennas: Electronics
  
• AmazonSmile: BlueRigger USB 2.0 Type A Male to A Female Active Extension/Repeater Cable - 32FT (10M): Gateway (get 2 maximum for each RTL-SDR)
  
  You need test equipment, like dummy loads, watt meters, SWR meters, antenna analyzers, etc. And power supplies. You need to know what your equipment is doing or not doing.
  
  Get a nice antenna system. You don't need to spend a lot of money at first, but antennas should be on your mind while you're selecting radios. Antennas make or break your station, regardless of what radios you have.
  
  That's all I can think of for now. I'm sure you will have a lot of fun shopping for new gear!

That's alright if you don't understand it very well, it's not really something most people deal with regularly on a technical level. Not exactly a hot topic at parties.

AES is the standard and will protect your important information; they didn't call it the Advanced Encryption Standard for nothing (though it's based off of the Rijndael cipher). There are of course other ciphers like Twofish which offer essentially equally strong security. Poor implementations of these are what make them potentially unsafe, but that's the case with any form of encryption.

Something like an encrypted hard drive or file that you can create with a tool like VeraCrypt (a well maintained fork of TrueCrypt) if you use a strong enough password (something long 16 characters of more, with a variety of letters, numbers and symbols, that doesn't use $ubSt1tuT3d p4tt3rNs) using AES will still protect your data at rest extremely well.

If you use an offline password manager like KeePassXC and sync it with Dropbox, Box or Google Drive, you can generate really long, completely random passwords with a lot of entropy (higher the entropy, the better). Then you would only ever need to really remember one really long random password, for your encrypted drives and you can then have a uniquely generated long password for every one for them, as well as online accounts.

The insecurity is usually not by breaking the algorithm or brute forcing it. If someone really wanted at your data, they're more likely to break into your residence or office, threaten you physically for the keys, install a hardware keylogger to steal the key or if your computer is running it can be fairly trivial to extract the key from memory.

Honestly though, unless some state actor is targeting you, for a reasonable level of security try to follow best practices like these:

• Use an offline password manager like KeePassXC which you can sync the file to all your devices. Never reuse passwords, ever.
  
• Encrypt your home computer or laptop with VeraCrypt which is easy enough to do with a graphical interface that guides you through the process for Windows. Linux users should use Cryptsetup/LUKS and macOS users should use FileVault at minimum. If you lose your computer or have it stolen this should at least prevent common thieves from getting at your data.
  
• Make sure your phone is encrypted. Most modern Android and iPhone devices are by default. Use a password on those instead of a PIN, pattern or the unlock options.
  
• Use multi-factor authentication for all your online accounts if there are options to do so. That way even if your password is compromised, the attacker wouldn't be able to provide additional factors, like an OTP security token (you know when you get an email verification code for instance).
  
• Use/buy a router with decent security and firewall. Disable any inbound traffic and UPnP (which can be abused to open up ports).
  
• Make sure your browser is using an ad-blocker like uBlock Origin for Chrome (plus Extra) or Firefox which will block dodgy sites and malware from loading as well.
  
• Keep your devices patched and up to date.
  
• Try to avoid using or doing anything sensitive on open WiFi networks, unless you have a VPN service you can use.
  
• Don't plug any devices into those USB chargers at malls, airports and other places unless you have some kind of USB condom that blocks the data channels.
  
  I hope you can use that information to better secure your devices and accounts. It's not as difficult to improve your security posture as most people think, just requires a little bit of reading and investigation without even getting too deep into it technically.

1. You are correct. the cable which comes with the new iPad pro is a USB 2.0 spec. Cannot support 4k external monitors and cannot charge at the fastest USB C can charge.
   
2. Your cables will not cause any problems but they will also not charge your iPad at the fastest speed it can. This cable charges my iPad super fast in conjunction with this charger. The cable is a USB C gen 2 cable which means it supports much faster charging and data transfer (the new iPad has a gen 2 port) and can output to 4k monitors. I also charge my Lenovo yoga 720 at full speed with no issues (Dell doesn't normally allow you to use any other USB C charger aside from the one the laptop came with). For a good 6ft USB C to USB A charger (at 3.0 speeds but not at USB C gen 2 speeds) I recommend this.
   
3. No you will have no issues using a slower speed cable. Except that you will charge slower and transfer data slower and cannot output to 4k monitors. I answered your question in answer #2.
   
4. Do not worry about the voltage. Unless you are out of America the voltage is not an issue because the device is able to detect it and monitor to make sure it's not taking too much voltage or getting too little. What you probably mean to ask is about the Wattage. USB C supports much higher wattage and generally the higher the wattage the faster it will charge (won't harm the device by charging faster since once again the iPad regulates to make sure it's not taking too much too fast). The charger that I linked above has a USB C power delivery port and will output 60 Watts to your iPad to charge it at its max speed. I do not believe that a USB C charger outputting at 80 Watts would charge your iPad even faster (but I could be mistaken).
   
5. Yes you can charge your iPad from your Dell docking station. It says straight on their website "USB Power Delivery USB Type-C cable supports up to 130W to power your laptop and peripherals." Up to 130W means it will charge your iPad at its max speed as long as you have a gen 2 USB C to USB C cable that supports it (like the one I linked above).
   
   Hope all of this helps and you enjoy your new iPad as much as I enjoy mine! :)

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

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In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

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> I have a MSI Z170-A-PRO Mobo. According to the specs on the website it can support 4x USB 3.1 connections through the internal 20-pin header.
>
> >With a cleverly placed USB 3.1 Gen1 front pin header on MSI motherboards, you can connect up to 4 USB 3.1 Gen1 devices directly to the front of your PC Chassis.
>
> This seems weird because I thought the 20-pin headers could only support 2x USB 3.
>
> I want to replace my USB front panel on my case because it's broken and I honestly hate having cords come out of the front of my computer.
>
> My plan is to remove the front panel, and use the 20-pin USB 3.1 header on the mobo to connect as many USB ports as I can to the rear panel with PCI brackets with something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/RIITOP-Female-Connector-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01KJPUI5W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+3.1+rear+panel&qid=1572367360&sr=8-3
>
> Here's the problem: I can't find any of these that support 4x USB ports on the rear panel with a single 20-pin header, even front panels that support 4x USB 3.0 are pretty rare. I don't know if there are 20-pin Y splitters, or if that would even work. Ideally I would like to just buy a single 20-pin to 4x USB rear panel.
>
> I don't have any interest in using PCI slots for this.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/doqdbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_29_2019/f5ptzu4/

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> I'm looking to get a cheap GPU to run PhysX in tandem with my 980ti. Should I seek out a new production card(and if so what do you think would be sufficient), or should I be fine looking for an older card(I was thinking a 750ti but if you can recommend a better option I'd appreciate it.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/doqdbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_29_2019/f5qgc2z/

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> Hi
>
> My friend has built his own pc. I went over to install windows on it tonight and it would crash when it would boot up.
>
> In the bios it would detect everything in the parts. But as soon as it would boot up on the ASUS logo screen the rotating load thing would pop up then crash. Any ideas?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/doqdbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_29_2019/f5qp4fy/

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> Hey all, I've run into an issue I cannot figure out myself. One of my exhaust fans, the most important one, has stopped working. When I'm in the bios it functions fine and responds to commands to change speeds, etc. As soon as I load up the OS it turns off. Any advice?
>
> Edit: I fixed it, but the fix doesn't answer the question. I switched the connection from CPU_OPT to CHA_1 and now it works, however the fan I had on CHA_1 I connected to CPU_OPT and that still works.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/doqdbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_29_2019/f5r514n/

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> Yo I got a laptop from my fam when I started school. It's got an i7-9750h a 1660ti and 16gb of ram. I'm looking at the fallen order recommended specs and everything is good except for my gpu as the VRAM is off by 2gb. I'd rather play this on my laptop then on my PS4 especially because I'm building a desktop this summer so I won't have to buy it twice. Do you think I'll still be able to get comparable performance to at least a console with the specs I have? Just turn the settings down to low?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/doqdbr/daily_simple_questions_thread_oct_29_2019/f5r617r/

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this has been my favorite case so far:
http://smile.amazon.com/Ringke-Absorption-Technology-Anti-Scratch-Protection/dp/B014RS5BHW/ref=sr_1_5?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1451311472&sr=1-5&keywords=nexus+5x+case
the button pressing action has been really nice--minimal resistance. the case itself is very customizable as you can use the template with any background or picture.

phone for use in my car:
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PPGOC0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A14FAFDFPQKMIV
best FM transmitter i've ever found, and highly reviewed via wirecutter.
i don't actually own this dash mount but man, do i want it. game changer. http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00RDQVPTY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OJFHJG4QML3E&coliid=I10BBT1M2MULXT&psc=1
this http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M6QODH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 and this http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8GU2OC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01 make a pretty sweet car charging duo. the cable isn't flimsy, it's affordable, and spec compliant.
if one would be blessed not to need an fm transmitter on their automobile, i really like this http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PTZEON0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OJFHJG4QML3E&coliid=INI8K30WP9S4L&psc=1


finally, as you start playing around with ROMS (to improve device performance as stock is pretty buggy and not particularly bueno with respect to battery life) you'll inevitably start making backups in twrp. you'll need to. those take up a lot of space. to ameliorate that, i suggest these: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00ZWN64RS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3OJFHJG4QML3E&coliid=I1YYV3CE6VXPNB&psc=1, http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YFI1EBC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

oh! there's also a pleson tempered glass screen protector on amazon for the 5x. it came in last week but i still haven't had a chance to install it. cheap and very highly reviewed.

The best I've seen is MagC, but it won't be out until maybe May of next year. MagC is really low-profile (15.1 mm), it's reversible, and it does data and video in addition to power. This is thinner than that 15.1 mm figure would indicate. This is the only one that uses an "L" design so that the USB-C cable enters at a 90-degree angle and doesn't add to the length that the dongle sticks out from the laptop. This is by far the best design.

The next best one, imo, is Snapnator. It's sticks out 25.8 mm. It's reversible, but it only does power. (It can't be used for data or video.) I would probably get this one if I had to get one right now.

The third best is MagNeo. It just started shipping to the KickStarter backers, but I'm not sure if new customers can purchase it at the moment. Athough at 24 mm MagNeo is a little thinner than Snapnator, the part that stays stuck to the laptop is thicker than Snapnator (8mm in MagNeo vs 5.8mm in Snapnator). MagNeo is better than Snapnator in that it does both data and video in addition to power. On the downside, it's not reversible, though.

The fourth best one is the Griffin BreakSafe. Griffin was the first to market, but it's the thickest at 30 mm. It also isn't compatible with the maximum wattage of the power adapters for the MacBook Pro (neither the 13-inch and 15-inch models from 2016 and 2017); It is rated only high enough to work with the 12-inch MacBook. It's also not reversible, and it can't be used for data or video.

If anyone knows of anymore of these things, I'm interested in them. Here's a spreadsheet I made a while back:
https://www.reddit.com/r/mac/comments/6j25to/comparison_of_magnetic_breakaway_adapters_for_usb/

Edit: Decided I like Snapnator more than MagNeo.

I'm not going to say one brand/type of cable is the best. Because there is no perfect cable, each type/brand of cable has their downsides for everyone.

Here's my history with it. Originally we had tried to save some money and bought some cheap braided USB C cables. Pretty soon the braiding wore out and the cable would random disconnect. This for all of our phones, Samsung S8 (dad), Pixel 3 XL (mom), and Pixel 4 (me). We then tried some "AmazonBasics" USB type C 2.0 cables, and they've working perfect for almost a whole year, compared to the other cheap cables we had, where we through 2 in the short span of a few months.

With my original Pixel Xl that I had before my 4, I have tried the official Google cable, and while they are expensive, here's what I have to say about them.

It's not worth it. First complaint is that the material wrap around the cable begins to darken as dirt begins to collect around it. Nothing a isopropyl alcohol wipe can't do, but over time it really gets stuck on there, and the cable begins to darken. Mine haven't darken'd too terribly, but there is some noticeable darkening. Second complaint, is the cable material bulging. If you leave the cable bent in a certain position long enough, then unbend it, a small bulge is left from the outside corner of that part of the cable being bent. It does not affect the cables performance, just a minor aesthetic thing. Aside from those issues, these cables look great. They function at the full USB 3 speeds they say it can, and its a perfect middle length for me, and works great across anything USB C, including my USB SSD, an elgato HD60S HDMI capture card, and a few other peripherals.

Like user DM725 said in a lower post,

>It needs to be a high speed cable with decent transfer speeds. This cable is 10gbps and has worked with every Android phone I've tested it on without issue. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYR2O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_KthYDbGJFT82X

I use the USB 2.0 version of that cable, and like I said, it works great.

Great question! What does your budget look like? If you care most about the realism and don't mind spending some money, you probably need an e-drum kick pedal combined with a cheap drum module that can send MIDI to Paradiddle. Something like this combo: Yamaha KU100 Beaterless Silent Kick Pedal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FI2PE1U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6aXaBbP0MVH9N + http://www.ddrum.com/query?upc=819998175757. I'd say that kick pedal is on the cheaper end of e-drum pedals, so you can find ones that are more realistic if you look for them.

If you just want to be able to use your foot with a pedal as cheap as possible, you can go for a USB foot-switch, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3cXaBbRTR6SYN that costs around $10-15. These are much flimsier and they won't give you velocity information (just on/off), but you'll at least be able to use your foot.

If you have a Rock Band pedal lying around you can also have that send MIDI and use that, this cover was recorded with a Rock Band pedal: https://youtu.be/udqt3JYtc6k.
But buying all of the required stuff might be somewhere around $50 or so, and you won't get velocity information with this either. It'll just feel more like an actual kick pedal on your foot.

Just as a note, some of the prizes for the ongoing drum cover contest include USB foot pedals as well as an e-drum pedal. We haven't received a lot of submissions yet, so if you decide on submitting a VR drum cover, you'll actually have a very good chance of winning something among those options! Let me know if you have any other questions. We also have a foot pedals channel on the Paradiddle Discord for people to share what pedals they've tried. I'll keep adding new ones on there as I test more options, but feel free to join us there as well.

That cable will certainly technically work (according to the Link specs we know), and the length is a little better, but I think you will find quickly that you will mostly be relegated to "sitting" VR games. If you started with the Quest, you don't yet really understand the extra "pain" or effort of tethered VR. My Rift has a 4m or 13ft cable, and even then, I do notice it and sometimes run into issues when playing active movement games like beat saber, or a roomscale game like blood and sorcery. 4m is barely enough and 5m (15ish ft) is perfect. 6ft might seem long, but when you are stand and moving, and unable to play literally right next to your PC, it is limiting...


I get the money situation, and 6ft will be plenty to play the less active PC VR content... but just set your expectation for the cable right, and realize that you will probably want to upgrade it when you can.

As an aside, I plan to buy the official Link cable when it's out (for the extra bit of length, and more importantly the light weight (fiber)), but I too got a new cable to try the beta when it's out... I don't know the CA conversion, or if this is on the CA store, but I think this is only a few buck more for an extra 3.5 ft... I think a 6.5 to 10ft difference might be bigger than you think, and worth it:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure if there is an equivalent priced one on the CA store.

1. If you have trouble with the lenses fogging, Quick Spit seems to work wonders. A lot comes out per spray, though, so it's best to hold the Rift upside down while spraying it to avoid fluid running into the screen area. Polish the excess off with lens cloth.
   
   
2. Yes, they say that the "A" lenses are proper for people with 20/20. But the "B" lenses present no problems for most people and allow you to dial the screen in closer to your eyes without brushing your eyelashes. The closer the screen, the wider the FOV.
   
   
3. While the Rift technically draws a little more power than the USB spec provides, I've yet to encounter a USB port that couldn't power it. If you pick up the proper cable you can ditch the wall wart and have one less wire to trip over.
   
   
4. Overwhelmingly, it's better to run at 60 FPS (or whatever Hz you're running at if you're overclocking the display) with lower graphics settings than 59 FPS at best graphics settings. Because each frame misses its target refresh and has to be displayed on the following one, missing your target refresh rate by even 1 FPS will drop the number of displayed frames by half and double your latency. Yes, when it says 59FPS, you're only seeing 30FPS. And that's a MUCH bigger deal in a HMD than on a monitor.
   
   
5. Even though the screen is 1280x800, running at higher resolutions actually makes a striking difference in visual quality. Why? Downsampling effectively acts as high-end anti-aliasing. For this reason, text is often much more readable when running at higher resolutions.
   
   
6. If you don't mind a little risk (and your machine is capable of driving the required frame rates), it's possible to run most DK1s at up to 72Hz without obvious distortion (and up into the low 80s if you're bolder and more tolerant of visual artifacts). The reduction in blur and improvement in responsiveness is striking. These settings worked fabulously for me in Win7 and stock Win 8, but using them after an upgrade to 8.1 went very, very poorly for me. Note that you must either extend your desktop or make the DK1 your primary monitor in clone mode for it to work. I had to delete the stock resolution settings after adding the custom ones before Windows would allow me to select into the higher refresh rates (in the advanced properties for the DK1 "monitor").
   
   
7. If you love trippy stuff, SoundSelf is something else. You'll need a microphone.
   
   
8. Sometimes it's nice just to mellow out in the Rift. Blue Marble is perfect for this because dropping your own music (converted to OGG) into the music folder lets you select the music, and the speed at which you drift away from earth will be timed to the length of the music. Drop "Shine on You Crazy Diamond I-IX" by Pink Floyd in the folder, kick back, and spend the first 5 minutes of the 26 minute trip drifting slowly backwards out of the aurora borealis watching meteorites skip off the atmosphere. It's heavenly.

It took me a while to figure this out but you don't. There are a couple of options.

1. You can load a virtual machine onto your PC and load MacOS onto it then you can use XCode to sideload Kodi onto it. The only drawbacks are that unless you have a paid developers account ($99/Year) it will only last you about 90 Days before having to re-sideload Kodi back onto the device.
   
   Here is the link to a guide: http://macdrug.com/install-mac-os-x-yosemite-in-vmware-inside-window-pc/
   
   
2. Which is a much easier method is to use a third party app signing service like iPwnStore to load Kodi onto your device. It's only $12 or something like that for the year and you do not need MacOS to complete the sideload. I've used them multiple times with no issues. You will however need a USB-A to USB-C cable you can get from Amazon for pretty cheap.(https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Type-USB-C-Black/dp/B00S8GU2OC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474921776&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+a+to+c)
   
   Link to iPwnStore website: https://tv.ipwnstore.me/home.html
   
   You will get the instructions emailed to you after completing your purchase at the iPwnStore.
   
   Video for Installing Kodi from iPwnStore: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahWMa77O7cU
   
   It is a bit of a pain to go through all this but I feel like it's worth it. I love having Kodi on my Apple TV.
   
   Hope this helps.
   
   

So far, very enjoyable to type on. Coming from my TKL the transition has been surprisingly easy (although I imagine if I hadn't learned to touch-type first that might not be the case). I usually sit around 95WPM (on my preferred typing test at least...), after about a day on the Let's Split I was at something like 50WPM. A week later I was at ~80WPM and now, two weeks later, I'm back at my normal typing speed. I am getting a lot of satisfaction out of customizing my layouts/layers, the split form factor is very comfortable, and I love the MX Clears. Overall, I'd say this has been a success in all ways except budget expectation vs. reality...


Parts:

• Cherry MX Clears from Switchtop
  
• DSA keycaps from PMK (GMC Ortho modifiers, WAN Blank Ortho base set, and RBD Blank pack)
  
• Stainless Steel Levinson plates and acrylic middle layer from Keebio
  
• Let's Split PCBs from Mehkee
  
• 2x Pro Micros from Keebio
  
• Diodes and TRRS Jacks from Digikey
  
• TRRS cable from Amazon (accidentally bought a TRS cable the first time, whoops)
  
• Micro USB Cable from Amazon
  
  
  
  ^and ^lets ^all ^pretend ^the ^picture ^isn't ^blurry ^please ^I ^didn't ^notice ^until ^after ^I ^put ^the ^camera ^away
  
  Here are some other photos.

Yeah it's a pretty common cheap tx for beginners. I can't find any mode 2 tx on Amazon. I think this one is a mode 2 so should work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0744DPPL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cpaSBbFCTAAFP


And here's the cable you need for use with simulators or any game.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAETLVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XuaSBbYTBB400


Or if you want a better Tx that's 'futureproof' consider paying more and getting a Taranis Qx7. It's about 100 bucks and both the hardware and firmware are better in quality and there is gobs and gobs of support online as it's one of the most used TX in the whole RC hobby. Plus there's no extra adapter cable needed to use with Sims. Any micro USB cable, plug it in to your PC and it's auto recognized by most Sims.

https://alofthobbies.com/frsky-taranis-q-x7.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQWQ7C3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fMaSBb5CRX90A

I think Anker is one of the best as far as cables an chargers go. I don't use a braided cable, but these look good.

You can use any Micro USB cable/car charger to charge your phone, but I'd recommend getting something like this to take advantage of the phone's quick charge capabilities. I have one in the car and it's great.

Seems kinda janky. Some games run well and uh some really do not lol

Not faulting anything since well AMD isn't supported to begin with, and well it's a beta that JUST came out, but I'm hoping that it gets ironed out as the beta goes along. Really see the potential and it could be a great thing once it all gets sorted out.

Oh I should probably list specs? We're all probably running around trying to figure out exactly what cable to get so figured it'd help posting em.


GPU: PowerColor Red Dragon RX 5700

CPU: Ryzen 2600 OC'd to 4.1

Cable: JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided] for iPad Pro 12.9/11 Galaxy S10 S9 Note 10+ 10 9 Tab S4 Nintendo Switch (Black)

Extender (which is just for extra length both cables work): CableCreation Active USB Extension Cable (Long 16.4 FT), USB 3.0 Extender Male to Female Cord with Signal Booster Compatible with Oculus Rift, Xbox, PS4, USB Printer etc, Black

I have 4 sensors, each mounted on top of 7'6" DIY stands made out of cheap 5'9" Ikea floor lamps..2 lamps per stand, each in it's own corner. The 8' long stock cables of the sensors only have a few inches worth left over when mounted on the stands, so extensions are a must no matter where you position them. I use the 'Monoprice 15-Feet USB 3.0 Extension Cables' from Amazon, with the sensor in the far corner needing 2 cables to reach the stand. This gives me a 10'x10' area, with an actual playspace of 7'x7'. I also shelled out for a Startech 4 port USB3.0 PCI card recommended on the Oculus blog. The sensors on USB3.0 use a lot of power, so you'll need to connect either a SATA power adapter or a molex power adapter to the PCI card...if you go that route. I haven't had any issues whatsoever, completely glitch free. I used the Sensor Bounds app in Oculus to make sure the sensor beams covered my play area high enough, as well as covering the corners closest to the stands. The beams aren't 90 degrees, so the higher the top of the beam, the less the corner gets covered by the lower part of the beam. It takes a few minutes, but it helps to completely cover the entire play area.

​

Btw...the best part of my DIY stands...they only take up 10" squared. Tripods are at least 2' squared. I considered microphone stands, but they only extend 5' or so. Nowhere near tall enough.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-15-Feet-Female-Active-Extension/dp/B00AA0U08M

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Express-SuperSpeed-Dedicated-Channels/dp/B00HJZEA2S

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/60416176/

https://www.amazon.com/CM01-Camera-Digital-Recorder-Adapter/dp/B001GWCC4I

Probably best to get the Oculus Quest and forget the PC. At most, you can add one 15 foot extension cable to VR without issues. That's what I have, running the cable to my Odyssey Plus in an adjacent room, but the PC is right up against the wall it shares with the room and I'm feeding the cable through a hole I drilled. If you think you can reach with one 15 foot extension (for about 25-30 feet max), I used this USB cable -- https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this HDMI--

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H92EE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for a headset, depends what kind of system you're running. For something modestly powered (an i5, and gtx 1060 or lower), probably the Rift S would be your best best. Or the Odyssey Plus when it's on sale. For a high powered system, maybe wait for the Vive Index if you can afford it, or the HP reverb, if it ever ships again. And there's PIMAX 5k on the highest end, but you have to be okay with tweaking a lot of things.

If you want to future-proof your setup, go with something XLR based, and later down the road you can upgrade and replace stuff on the cheap.

I personally use an AT2020-XLR on a cheap mic stand that comes with a shock mount and built in cable (gets a bit squeaky after a few months of use, but only when fully retracting it), piped through a phantom power supply and an XLR to USB cable

A really good mic to go with would also be the ATR 2100 as it is both XLR and USB. It's a dynamic mic, so background noise won't be much of an issue. The price point is great, and it would be easy to expand on later. I personally have no experience with the mic, so take that as you will.

My pleasure! Actually, thanks to the magic of Amazon, I found my active USB extensions. These are the ones I used that actually worked.

Good luck!

Plugable 10 Meter (32 Foot) USB 2.0 Active Extension Cable Type A Male to A Female https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6Iv4DbZ8B1B63

I recently bought myself a Flysky FS i6X transmitter for about $50 and this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAETLVY?ref%5F=oh%5Faui%5Fdetailpage%5Fo02%5Fs00&redirect=true&psc=1&pldnSite=1
Plugged it into my Mac last night (just got the transmitter yesterday) and it works perfectly with both FPVFreerider and Liftoff. Maybe ask him if he would be interested in that. Tell him you will get him that stuff (and maybe a HubsanX4 to fly for real) and when he gets good with the sim, you can get him a better higher end quad. Once I get good with the sim, I'm going to get this: http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Wizard-X220-FPV-Racing-Drone-Blheli_S-F3-6DOF-2205-2300KV-Motors-5_8G-48CH-200MW-VTX-ARF-p-1085802.html?rmmds=search with some goggles. I've always wanted to do FPV and then get an action cam to attach to it so I can record video. I'm personally not really into "racing" quads around, I just want to fly and take cool video.

Mediabridge has been working for me for at least a year now. A slight issue is the size since it would hit my diztronic case (it's smaller than the generic amazon one), but the plastic is soft and you can easily shave a little of it away with a knife or something. I removed the equivalent of a half grain of rice, so not a lot. I think it's definitely worth it because it's a high quality cable. It's thicker and the ends are protected nicely so it should last a long time (the cable I had to replace separated near the head after a year or so, so I needed a sturdier cable)

A logitech ergonomic with two side buttons should do decent as a mouse with a low budget ($20<)

VoiceAttack is $10 and headset for mic (another $10 to 20)

https://www.amazon.com/Pedal-Video-Control-Hands-Camera-Footswitch/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496633145&sr=8-1&keywords=foot+usb is a cheap foot pedal to try out the concept.

Personally I don't recommend eye tracking but I used freeware and a cheap webcam.

I'd just go for the mouse and voice attack/mic and see how you do with that. Then get extras. Plenty of good free or cheap games (may want to check out the gamedeals subreddit). Mind I tried different things out of saving up on minimum wage for parts and doing it as an odd hobby for new ways to play games. With these the main thing is to figure out how to best rebind your buttons.

Well, any external hard drive that says it's powered by USB, just assume you will need a Y usb connector. The Y takes power from two sources 1 pi and 1 other. The pi doesn't pump out the juice to keep the hd spinning.

I just bought one of these for a NAS pi project but it needed extra power.

WD 4tb Passport http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822235134

Then a Y connector
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIGO4NM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As for cases, it's all about creativity and whatever gives you inspiration. I put mine in a classic (broken) sony walkman. http://i.imgur.com/GT6Xguo.jpg

So I've recently troubleshooted my Android Auto on my new car. I believe the majority of issues stem from the cable. Buy a UFS 3.1 USB A to USB C cable. This is the one that I've had great success with.

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters) - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYR2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T0JEAbCH2WEXB

I also went in to the battery optimizations and turned it off for all of the apps Android Auto uses.

I use jetAudio Plus for audio and Waze. JetAudio let's you play music files from your device instead of streaming. It can play 24 Bit Flac files.

Hope this helps others.

After testing around 8 to 10 antennas (I am a licensed amature radio operator, so know a bit about antenna design and construction) for ADSB my advice would be to steer away from the coax collinear. Very very very very very few people have the equipment to accurately construct that antenna and get the claimed gain out of it.
Simpler is more accurate and thus results more gain. The fewer cuts, bends, soldering etc in the ADSB antenna, the higher gain it will have.
The best way to get max gain is just as /u/myownalias points out, use a USB extension cable. You can get amplified USB leads that will go out to 32 feet (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO) we have used these in a few of my ASB installs and can confirm they work fine with the FA Pro sticks. Zero loss.

Update: I bought the Cable Matters cable because it looked nice and thin and was cheap. The specs say it does NOT do fast charging or work with the Switch. I suspected that was wrong... and I'm right!

It does fast charging just fine with my Aukey QC2.0 car charger.

I'm getting the idea that most of these have only tested to meet the 2.4A spec required by USB-IF or whatever and that they just didn't bother to test further. Doesn't mean it WON'T work, though.

I'm noticing the specs say it goes up to 2640mA (2.64A). According to Wikipedia, QC2.0 only uses 2A - it's just a higher voltage (9V 2A rather than 5V 2A). Obviously current without voltage is a meaningless measurement, but I digress.

The Nintendo Switch uses a much higher power, I don't have my official charger at work to look at but I want to say it's like 15V 3A for 45W compared to the 18W QC2.0 uses. So if these thin cables can't power a Switch, that's totally understandable.

I'm also pleased with how thin the Cable Matters cable is. The rubbery feel is a bit...strange, but it's like half as thick as the Aukey cable. So that's a good thing.

Edit: Weird, the description now mentions the Galaxy S8 (though nothing about fast charging) and the Switch. I swear a couple weeks ago it said it doesn't support fast charge or the Switch. Looking at an archived version from 2015 shows they changed the design at least once, and that old one only did 1.5A charging. So I guess they updated it for new devices and that's what I got - can't say I mind, though!

Sure thing fam!

USB 2.0 16 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LFL4X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB 3.0 15 ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI cable 10ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

HDMI Repeater - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M02Z4FU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The good news is with a repeater you can just use a regular HDMI cable and not an extension with male/female connectors. I only bought an extra cable because all the ones I had lying around were only 6ft or so and I wanted longer.

I had some crackling in the audio the first time I connected the headset with extensions but hasn't been any since then (not sure if I had/have it on 2.0 or 3.0 for the headset which would be the culprit since HDMI is only for the video portion and USB carries audio).

Like I said - all of these are working on my current setup. Motherboard is an MSI Z97-G45 Gaming with my 4790k and running a 1080 ti GPU. Monitors are on display port so am fortunately able to run this directly from the GPU's open HDMI slot.

I also use an Acer Predator Helios 300 laptop and the extensions all work with it as well so hopefully you have good results!

I have a MSI Z170-A-PRO Mobo. According to the specs on the website it can support 4x USB 3.1 connections through the internal 20-pin header.

>With a cleverly placed USB 3.1 Gen1 front pin header on MSI motherboards, you can connect up to 4 USB 3.1 Gen1 devices directly to the front of your PC Chassis.

This seems weird because I thought the 20-pin headers could only support 2x USB 3.

I want to replace my USB front panel on my case because it's broken and I honestly hate having cords come out of the front of my computer.

My plan is to remove the front panel, and use the 20-pin USB 3.1 header on the mobo to connect as many USB ports as I can to the rear panel with PCI brackets with something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/RIITOP-Female-Connector-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01KJPUI5W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+3.1+rear+panel&qid=1572367360&sr=8-3

Here's the problem: I can't find any of these that support 4x USB ports on the rear panel with a single 20-pin header, even front panels that support 4x USB 3.0 are pretty rare. I don't know if there are 20-pin Y splitters, or if that would even work. Ideally I would like to just buy a single 20-pin to 4x USB rear panel.

I don't have any interest in using PCI slots for this.

I looked at some of the amazon basic cables. They seem okay, I guess. They are decently priced so I may go for them as I need multiple. I need one for my car so I can use my phone for android auto, one for my PC and a third as a backup in case I lose/break one.

Edit: I have gone ahead and ordered 3 of the Amazon basic cables here. The reviews seem really good and at a good price. 3 of these cost around the same as a single cable in local stores around me. Thanks for the help.

I use an Anker (here) with one of these. I've never done a full set of charge cycles on one Anker charge, but it should charge my XL 5-7 times before the Anker itself needs a charge. I usually share the power with my phone though.

It's also worth noting I use the 1st gen Anker - I've had it for 2 years and it's still going strong. This one looks even better - especially the fact that it can detect what current to send to your device (mine has a 1A and 2A port)

This shouldn't cost you more than $40-50 total. I'm seeing the 13000 mAh battery at $30 right now, and the cable is about $6 shipped.

Generally HDMI is good to about 50 feet.
I would get a good 50 foot cable like this.

USB is good to 16 feet. You can get a USB active repeater that will add an additional 32 feet.. So as long as your rig is under 50 you should be okay.

Deploy a Citrix or RDP redirect to his corporate PC over VPN VM for him to use with 2 factor authentication and a US-based certificate authority. That way he can travel with no corporate data in tow, where he might be forced to decrypt the laptop for foreign border agencies which are known to work with intelligence services. Since he will want to travel light, perhaps buy him a Macbook and don't forget power converters for Africa. Don't forget to deploy antivirus (with an uninstall password set) and filevault, even on Mac and make sure he cannot save the password in the RDP software. If you do go the Mac route, don't forget to deploy a password on the firmware as well. Don't give him local admin on the laptop but insert a local admin account for a backup he doesn't know exists unless told about in a troubleshooting session.

I hate Surface Pro's but they are such a bitch to tamper with (don't forget to also setup secure boot microsoft only, no USB boot allowed in the uefi firmware and set a password on it) that most attempts would be physically visible. Remember, give him a REALLY GOOD remote experience (Citrix works good over high latency / low bandwidth links) and he will want to comply with all of this.

Do not allow him under any circumstances to take an Android phone overseas. I highly recommend a iPhone with a heavy duty "Unicorn Beetle" case (check Amazon) and a USB charge only cable: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Block-20AWG-Lightning-Cable/dp/B01F7AU62E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957207&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+iphone&dpID=31dRwWAKkBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

For everything else: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00T0DW3F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957248&sr=8-2&keywords=charge+only+adapter

and send him with at least two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522957319&sr=8-1&keywords=hotel+room+lock these should be inside his laptop bag and with him at all times. I recommend a backpack: North Face Borealis.

If he's going out of cell range, I recommend purchasing a Garmin Inreach and activating it for $65 a month. It will allow him to cheaply send and receive SMS messages via Iridum and a smartphone. Let him know that any communications over this is not secure whatsoever.

Run firmware updates on everything right before he leaves.

I use an Incipio offGRID IP-679 along with this cable. I got the IP-679 as a work anniversary gift even though I knew I'd probably never end up using it and there was nothing else on the list I would remotely even want. I'm glad I did though, because it lasts forever. It's just a generic USB charger so it's not meant to attach to the 3DS but it's smaller than my iPhone 5s so it's super easy to pick up the charger and 3DS in one hand if I want to move to a different room. The cable I linked to is almost 4 feet long (about 44 inches) so your 3DS doesn't have to sit right next to the charger. You have plenty of wiggle room.

If you're just looking for a basic C-C cable, I've had good luck with the AmazonBasics and Anker cables and any of them should be fine.

However, in the past year or so, I've been making an effort future proof myself as I'm replacing more and more devices with USB-C ones. I've bought several of these Anker Powerline II C-C cables when they go on sale because they're capable of USB 3.1 data speeds and up to 100W of power, which is especially useful for laptops that charge over USB-C versus 30W or 60W with cheaper cables. Just kind of a way to more fully realize the USB-C dream, I guess.

> Part of it sticks out from the body of the computer

Looks like a regular cable to me

> You lose one of your USB-c ports to power

Companies are already designing power + data adapters. As USB-C becomes more ubiquitous there will certainly be more options.

The alternative is a proprietary port w/ MagSafe but lacking any and all accessories that benefit from TB3 and USB-C. I'd much rather have a useful port with compatible accessories than a MagSafe port that lacks third-party support.

Here's a $6 Micro USB with over 7,000 ratings and 5,000 reviews.

At half the cost, it is twice the length, and arguably higher quality.

Do I need one in my bathroom? No, but that's beating around the issue at hand.

I don't think having one at my office, bedroom, car, etc is overkill.

That's also taking into consideration one person, of which most households have more than that.

That's also negating the fact that micro USB is used for devices outside of Apple products.

My external battery pack uses Micro USB, as well as my tablet, GPS, bluetooth, camera, wireless keyboard, and numerous other devices.

Do I think the lightning connector has worth? Yes, I thoroughly enjoy not having to fish around at night to plug in my phone, but I also have to go out and buy a bunch of new cables whenever a company uses a proprietary cable. I don't need to do the same if micro USB is used.

Okay, so in case you or anyone else was wondering, I got it to work.

I ended up purchasing https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In case the link dies it's an Anker 10 Port 60W USB 3.0 Hub with 7 Data Transfer Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports. Basically you plug that into an outlet, so make sure you have an available outlet near the USB Hub.

I plugged that into my usb extension cable (which is a BlueRigger 32 feet USB 2.0 Type A Male to A Female Active Extension / Repeater Cable seen here https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Then I plugged the DolphinBar into the first port. Works like a charm. Basically, the extension cable just needed more juice because it couldn't transmit the signal through 32 feet of cable without an external source.

And, for the record, if anyone comes across an issue like this, my next step was to do USB over a Cat5 or Cat6 (or whichever cable you prefer to use) which I was fairly certain would have worked.

Learned a lot about USB cables.

Have you ever used quality cables? I mean sure they’ll eventually break but if you use them well they should last at least 4-6 months if not more.
This cable is pretty good for example.

I can confirm this USB 2.0 Active cable 32' works with no observable lag. I just need a active HDMI cable now as my 4k 50' doesnt work at all and both 25' HDMI cables I tried work but has flickers and issues. But thanks for a great write up. Want to do full room VR in my spare bedroom without moving new PC.

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Female-Active-Extension-Repeater/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1467603251&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+extension+cable&refinements=p_89%3ABlueRigger

I wasn't sure if this was a Link issue or not, but when I run it, I tend to have issues with the guardian when I'm sitting in front of the computer while I'm working in Unity. The guardian seems to get lost and keeps asking me to keep resetting the guardian. Once it just totally set my headlevel to the ground level as well. And is there any easier way to go between the Oculus home and the Quest home without constantly unplugging it?

Otherwise, running actual games works great! I don't even notice any compression unless I try to look really hard around the edges! I like using it way more than the CV1 (also because the Quest is much more accommodating to glasses). My lab's computers uses a GTX 1080 I believe, but I'm not sure about the CPU.

​

I used the JOTO one here. It ships very fast and is only a little more expensive than the Anker one, and most others are sold out except for this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/

I use a standard webcam and a USB extension cable. This allows me to simply run the cord all the way from my tent to my computer. Make sure to purchase the 'active' type cables because they support devices which draw a lot of power. This cord reaches 32 feet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AGX4YO

I then use VideoVelocity Studio to do the capturing. It has a wonderful feature that lets you specify exactly when you want the capturing to begin and end on a daily basis. This allows you to only record when the lights are on, which is beneficial for 12hr flowering and 18hr veg cycles.

I'm thinking about buying a mic for discord, maybe streaming (emphasis maybe) and am leaning towards a dynamic mic because I've been told that they're better for reducing background noise vs a condenser.

If I get a dynamic mic with XLR out, what would be the okayest way to hook it up to my PC with acceptable input levels? At the moment, I'm considering this headset with the mic connected to the PC via this XLR to USB cable. Will that combination work ok, or should I be looking at something else?

The other thing I'm considering is this USB stand-alone mic and having game sound through my speakers.

I apologise is this isn't the right place to ask.

there are a number of 3rd party solutions for magsafe functionality for the new MBP. One example - Amazon griffin BreakSafe <-- see edit

Is it ridiculous that you would need to pay an extra $40 for the new MBP, yes. But that is the standard for being an apple fan. I refuse to have my iphone not in a case with a screen protector or to have my rMBP not in a sleeve when using it at school or traveling. The technology is too expensive not to opt for a quality accessory especially if it is protective like magsafe is.

Edit: the linked 3rd party magsafe usb-c doesn't have good reviews, don't buy. Look for better similar options out there, they exist if you absolutely need magsafe.

I just set mine up today. Checkout this cool walk-through on the eachine wizard.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2Q2KdhtmFA&t=1584s

If you bought the radio drone combo like I did, you will still need to bind the receiver to the radio and set a few things up in beta flight. Super important you setup a fail safe for your drone or you can kiss it goodbye if you loose signal.

Also if you are completely new to racing drones, I highly recommend you pick up an adapter cable so you can hook your radio up to computer for flight simulators. It will save you a ton of money because you will crash.


Here is the cable I am using with my FS-iA6B controller:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAETLVY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the flight simulator I am using:

https://fpv-freerider.itch.io/fpv-freerider

HD webcams that are connected to the laptop just with regular usb?

Yes or via active usb extender cables such as
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BlueRigger-Active-Extension-Repeater-Female/dp/B005LJKEXS/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5XTF7EG145X9N1PZY2Z9

Any suggestion to which one? Could you suggest mics and mixer?
i use a cheap behringer usb mixer
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B008O516L0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1481858123&sr=1-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=behringer+usb+mixer&dpPl=1&dpID=61gv6f5oIkL&ref=plSrch

many good quality mics available for under £100. you could even just use the mic on one of the USB cameras and do away with the mixer altogether if it was close enough to the person - audio quality will not be as good as using dedicated mics. if you let me know about the anticipated set up / scene you're wanting to broadcast i can advise in more detail

X-posting from /r/AndroidAuto

So, I just got a new Hyundai Sonata Hybrid with AA built in. It'll be nice to use it in-car rather than in a windshield mount on my phone. I've run into a old familiar problem however, with a modern twist.

The car's USB port only puts out a little bit of power, unsurprisingly. In the past, I ordered a power/data splitter like this to power the phone separately from a car charger. That was great on a phone that used MicroUSB and had lower power needs.

The issue now is that I'm using a Pixel XL with a USB C port. I just purchased a USB-PD friendly car charger a few weeks ago. I'd like to find a cable that'll let me power my phone separately from the USB-C port on my charger and run the data into ye olde USB port for AA.

If there isn't one with USB-C, at least a splitter that can handle the power draw of QC 2.0 or better, and I'll use a USB-A to USB-C cable.

I grabbed this one and it works perfectly. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017COHTJ6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I even had a 6ft 3.0 non avtive extension and they're suprisingly playing well together at 16ft total. :)

Edit: oh wow it was 14.99 when I ordered it yesterday morning. Guess they upped the price with demand :(

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB2TYPEM-Barrel-Power-Cable/dp/B003MQO96U


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Japan|www.amazon.co.jp||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
|India|www.amazon.in||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

I use this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Braided-Tangle-Free-Gold-Plated-Connectors/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492811211&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+micro+usb+cable

Having a long cable is pretty useful, and having a braided cable makes it pretty durable. Ignore the gold plated part, but I think this cable does its job pretty well.

Thanks for your clarifications ! So this Aukey charger seems to compatible with PD2.0 of the Pixel, that's a good news.
With that I think I'm going to buy this Anker USB-C cable with USB IF certification. Could you confirm it's a good one to enable PD2.0 with the Aukey charger ?

This combo is pretty expensive but if I wanna have a PD compatible charger I think it's a minimum.

Sorry for my short answers I'm on my phone and the GBoard keep correcting me for every english words aha. But really thank you for your précise answers !

It's probably one of those 3 pin mics right? Those are XLR mics, and it probably is better quality.

HDE USB to XLR Microphone Instrument Karaoke Cable 3 Pin XLR Female to USB 2.0 Male MIC Link Adapter (10ft/3m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c4W4ybWBR8PAE

You'll need that at the minimum to get it to work. You'll need to boost the audio in your editor though it'll be hella quiet.

Later on you'll need phantom power to get the volume where you want it but that requires another piece of kit.

Not the end of the world, it'll be ok man

Edit: mobile autocorrect is fun

I thought the same when I saw these - the covers would be trivial to remove and even easier to put a cheap 3D printed cover on it with malware or a capacitor to blow up phones.

Something like this could stop malware pretty easy if you frequently charge from mystery sources. But then again, if you are going to carry a saftey adapter and need to charge frequently, you may as well carry a lipstick sized powerbank.

Wow, so much negativity and whining here. If you're scared of breaking the MacBook, so am I! I'm with you here. But instead of whining, let's see what can be done to FIX SHIT:

First, get Griffin's BreakSafe cable. Yes, it's got design issues but you need something right now.

Alternative is the MagNeo cable that's available for pre-order.

Then, get a decent hardshell. I've got the Fintie, and it's pretty good. 13" and 15" versions are available.

And finally, check your insurance. Creditcard might offer protection, plus your contents insurance may cover it (but make sure and call to see whether it actually covers).

I am not sure that receiver will work with the wizard but This one is what I use and it works great. I use This cable to connect to my pc and it is just plug and play.

I used to be the same way when I was buying nothing but Monoprice cables. I started buying Mediabridge cables and have not needed to replace one in the past year and a half. Seriously, the best cables I've ever used. That goes with their 3.5mm audio cables and HDMI cables that I've bought from them also.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GF8TIK

Blah blah /r/hailcorporate etc, their cables are super sturdy.

Also do yourself a favor and get this cord for your transmitter it allows you to play pc drone simulators with your transmitter and helps you get better when you're new to prevent crashing as much

I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Magnetic-Breakaway-MacBooks/dp/B01CQTK6GU and love it, but i got it when it was on prime sale for $20.

It's definitely worth it though. The 2016 Macbook i'm afraid to use the included cable with because it's really rigid and does not pull out easily. Theres also weight on the connector when it's in your lap, so the breakaway cable is a good investment. The magnets are strong enough not to fall off for no reason, and it charges at the same rate as a regular cord.

FYI, I don't think it makes sense to say that a passive extension cable "Works" without saying which other cable you used it with. I submitted the entry for the "Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable", and it worked for me with the 3ft adapter cable I used (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYR2O/) but that doesn't mean it'd work for someone else hooking it up to a 10ft adapter cable, for example.

Probably less of an issue for the active extension cables, since those usually act as a powered hub at the endpoint where the A-to-C cable connects, but for the passive extension cables it's a very important consideration.

I found this was a pretty nice video.

As far as a battery pack: I personally wouldn't recommend one. They're overpriced. For around the same price you can get a USB>3DS charger cable and buy a much larger battery bank instead. This one in particular comes to mind. You can also use this for other devices, and not have to worry about the extra bulk so you can use a protective case or grip. :)

Edit: Here is a mugen power pack for comparison.

CableCreation cables are awesome! I chatted with Benson, and although he hasn't reviewed them, he recommended them to me and I haven't looked back. Super high quality and a great price https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Braided-Charging-Macbook-Chromebook/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=lp_12698350011_1_16?srs=12698350011&ie=UTF8&qid=1473427311&sr=8-16

I just got this Anker C to C and love it! It fast charges just like the one that comes with the pixel 3. The cord is also really good quality!

There are 3rd party USB-C chargers cables with magnetic, breakaway plugs. Griffin makes one. I've also seen micro and mini with data support as well.

Apple should have included and at least placed a USB-C port on each side on the Macbook. That would have made it so you just leave the magnetic connector in and choose what side to charge from while leaving one free port for accessories.

I use an Anker Power line and Cable Creations. Both are great. The Anker is 6' the cable creations is 10'. I use the Google type C brick for both.

Anker PowerLine+ C to C 2.0 cable (6ft), High Durability, for USB Type-C Devices Including Samsung Galaxy Note 8 S8 S8+ S9, iPad Pro 2018, Google Pixel, Nexus 6P, Huawei Matebook, MacBook and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LNA0XCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6hF7CbNYHEMBD

USB C Cable 10ft, CableCreation USB C to USB C Braided Data & Charging Cable (20V,3A) up to 480Mbps, Compatible with MacBook(Pro), Galaxy S10/S9/S9+, Pixel XL 2,etc (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ujF7Cb6HSQV6D

Buy a powergen charger, I own one and its amazing. USB does NOT charge the same AC. If you see USB under battery settings you're drawing a much more limited amount of power then versus AC (plugging in a PC vs plugging in a wall). The powergen outputs much more then needed for the nexus 4, although the nexus 4 will only draw as much as needed, and make sure to get a good USB cable this one: Check this out on AMZN:

Mediabridge Hi-Speed USB 2.0 - (6 Feet) - A-Male to Micro-B Cable
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GF8TIK/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

Not all micro USB cables are made the same, most work well, but if you buy a 99¢ one, you're going to get what you paid for (some don't even allow AC charging).

Btw, don't worry about any power problems with high mAh chargers/AMP ones. If the nexus 4 suddenly took more power then needed, it would probably explode and that would be some pretty horrible design.

Edit: another good thing about this charger is that its universal and it will split the power amount! So if you plug in two devices it will simultaneously charge them both at AC power.

edit: yes the powergen charger is considered AC charging by the nexus 4 either single or with two devices (I use mine with either the cable that came with the nexus 4 or the one I linked to)

I've been working on this problem for a while... you are right, its not the phone or the USB port. I think it is related to the data transfer rate of the cable. I tried Anker's cable. It helped but still crashed.

​

I had some better luck after I bought this cable which is USB 3.1 (keep in mind that usb data rates are backward compatible) - I still get crashed but much less frequently:

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-USB-Male-Cable/dp/B01GGKYR2O/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=amazonbasics+3.1+usb&qid=1558037805&s=electronics&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1

Okay, here. And I'll call you a well meaning consumer who thinks the best of companies that couldn't give a single shit about you.

> With PCI-Passthrough, it's 1 GPU for each VM. So I've got 3 VMs/GPUs.

You could run them at 8x/4x/4x and probably not saturate the connection unless it's a heavy workload. Instead of getting a USB expansion card then, you could just get an internal connector to an open USB header like this.

I luckily don't have this dilemma in my VM box since I only have one GPU being passed through and then a SAS raid card for 8 drives. Either way, this is not the CPU/platform I'd personally get for your use case. I'd go with one of the X series.

> It seems like it has 24 lanes in total? Or whatever is going on with the HSIO lanes?

CPU (16 lanes) <- 4 lane interconnect -> Z390 (24 lanes)
Diagram on this page

It's pretty much the same as Z370 or any other intel chipset. People always forget about the chipset count. CPU lane count really only matters for GPUs / expansion cards.

On linux, it was likely harmless. Still ill-advised.

Better would be to offer a charge from your backup battery. Or use a USB data blocking adapter. For their safety as well as yours.

Here are some recommendations from Amazon.

USB A to C https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerLine-Braided-MacBook-OnePlus-Red/dp/B071G5YCS6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=anker+usb+c&qid=1570486566&sr=8-1

USB C to C https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-PowerLine-Durability-Including-Matebook-Gray/dp/B06Y25Y6WX/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=anker+usb+c&qid=1570486586&sr=8-6

Good quality cables and really good customer service.

I got this cord and this charger for charging while in hand held mode and it works great.

In case it's helpful to someone, I just got this cable and I'm finally working. It's 10 feet and works like a charm!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

MediaBridge is awesome, also their warranty is great, cable broke. I emailed them, they asked me to take a picture of the cord cut in half and they sent me a replacement unit free of charge.

http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-USB-2-0-High-Speed-Gold-Plated/dp/B004GF8TIK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1420044656&sr=8-6&keywords=6+ft+microusb+cable

I bought this cable for $6 and use it with an iPad power brick. Works perfect and was super cheap.

Check out Benson's reviews of USB C cables. I couldn't believe there were so many bad cables out there.

https://plus.google.com/collection/s0Inv

BTW I bought a CableCreations 10FT cable from Amazon for $8.88 and it works great. Benson approved.

Type USB C-C Cable, CableCreation 10ft Braided USB 2.0 Type C (USB-C) to Type C Data Charging Cable(3A) for Apple New Macbook, Nintendo Switch, Chromebook Pixel, Nexus 5X/ 6P, etc (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D175HMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MQRaAbY97440V

I would love to hear about wireless options myself, I could never find out that seemed like it would work the way I wanted. I ultimately opted on using this cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AGX4YO which is a 32 foot usb repeater that works flawlessly.

Good to know, thank you. I've read the descriptions and narrowed it down to these two options, and both seem to be built for carrying quick charge current. Thanks for responding.

[2-Pack] Anker 6ft Nylon Braided Tangle-Free Micro USB Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_97ynzbABW8X2A

[2 Packs] iXCC 6 Feet Long Micro USB to USB 2.0 Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVAO8ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Paznzb8KBEMDZ

10m extension cable? 35 feet? How far away is your dresser :P

Not sure I could recommend a working cable at that distance. I use 2 - 15' active USB 3.0 Extension cables (one for each sensor) and they work great.

Here is the link: (note Amazon Canada)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It depends on the age and features of your motherboard.

Re-soldering is an option, if it’s directly mounted on the backplane (the rectangular window where USB, integrated audio jacks, integrated video ports, etc.)

If you’ve broken something in a port mounted elsewhere in the chassis, chances are something like https://www.amazon.com/RIITOP-Female-Connector-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01KJPUI5W/ would work.

There are also PCI-e cards like https://www.amazon.com/FebSmart-Self-Powered-Technology-No-Additional-FS-U2-Pro/dp/B071P5C6CS/ but it’s possible they won’t work properly before Windows is loaded.

Since you said it’s the motherboard side for you specifically, if you don’t have another 3.0 port on the motherboard, it will be soldering, or the PCI-e expansion card, (assuming you aren’t using a super slim chassis)

So I've basically got a 30ft active HDMI cable and a 30ft USB2 repeating cable running from my PC, through the flat and into my Vive room. The cables are tucked away against the walls and around frames so they're out of the way. I've had this setup for about 6 months now and it's worked great. Meant I didn't have to move my entire office setup into the other room.

Here's the cables I use -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Redhead-Sewell-Premium-Redmere-Technology-x/dp/B00K00Y4XY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484749348&sr=8-1&keywords=30ft+active+hdmi

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484749421&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=30ft+usb2+active

I got this 5m (16.4ft) USB 3.0 monoprice active extension and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AA0U08M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So? Perfectly fine for charging. If you really want USB 3.1 (and shorter cables and bigger connector housings and twice the price), here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JYDQ7N/

Because you may have spare usb headers on your motherboard, and just need a couple cables.
You have 2 usb3 20pin connectors and 2 usb2 9 on connectors on your motherboard. Assuming you're not using them all you can add cards like this:
https://www.amazon.com/RIITOP-Female-Connector-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01KJPUI5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=usb+header+bracket&qid=1574198441&sprefix=usb+header+b&sr=8-4
And similar to the system for more ports.
Some PC stores will have them in stock but not list them on their website, so call your preferred pc stores asking for USB header back panel adaptors.
Another solution if you want to run molex power in is a PCIE 1x USB 3 card. But cheapest solution is using the headers on your motherboard first

Here ya go

It's just a 15' Monoprice active extension, as clearly shown in the video around 1:40. A Monoprice (non active) 2.0 cable is what came included in the box for me when I bought my 3'rd sensor. I recently replaced my Monoprice active extension because it was giving me issues... :/

Thx :) I bought this cable --> https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and coiled it with a hair dryer and a wooden stick with 10mm diameter (those are about 1€ at the local hardware stores).

I found this simple guide --> https://geekhack.org/index.php?PHPSESSID=4ckthvrl09ct4vegc7rmgaihfaj23en4&topic=82202.0
(btw, using zip ties instead of tape works ways better to get a tight tension for coiling)

I've got a FlySky FS-i6X and this cable that I use with my Mac on FPV Freerider. Works perfectly fine, but at $60 for the transmitter (with X6B receiver) and another $10 for the cable I'd rather just get a Taranis Q X7. Yeah, it is another $35 from getfpv.com and doesn't come with the receiver, but it looks like a kick ass transmitter.

Otherwise, there is also the FS-i6 without receiver that currently costs $37 on banggood (which would also need that above mentioned cable), the Turnigy Evolution for around $77 and the FS-i6S which is around $60. The Turnigy Evolution and FS-i6S controllers have the same electronics, but drastically different design. The Evolution has a design quite like an XBox controller and has a decent following. Both of those are connectable with just a regular USB cable.

brillient! thanks! :)

edit: so something like this I guess:

car charger

cable

It is an adapter that blocks data transfer between a USB port and your cable, leaving only the power pins connected. So you can connect your phone to a potentially compromised port (think airports) without the risk of your device getting hacked.

There is an actual product called the USB Condom, as well as similar products like PortaPow's Data Blocker. I have the one from PortaPow, and it works pretty well. The downside is that most (all?) fast-charging standards negotiate via data, so these devices limit you to ordinary charge speeds.

I have not personally used it with my Pixel, since these days my on-the-go charging is taken care of with my own portable power bank.

I have been looking into it but have not decided to buy yet. I am looking at this Magnetic Connector and this 10ft USB-C Cable. Both support data transfer but at USB2 speeds. I do not know if the Quest supports USB3.

I got 2 of these, one for work and one for next to my bed. Both work great & work with both the default and 3rd party USB-PD rapid chargers.

In preparation for my 5x's arrival, I've ordered the following:

• Aukey Dual 2.4a car charger Coupon code WZE6JCXG to get it for $5.99
  
• USB A to C 3.3ft cable
  
• 2 pack Micro USB to Usb C adapters
  
• Diztronic tpu case
  
• Pleson Tempered Glass Screen Protector
  
  Hopefully some of my time and effort make your searching a little bit easier.
  
  Edit: Reposted, hopefully the affiliate link is removed.
  
  EDIT2: CABLE MATTERS IS STILL SHIPPING OUT OF SPEC CABLES AVOID THEM

I think they're talking about those things you sometimes see in malls and airplanes, where it's just a USB port to directly plug your cable into. But, if you have to use one of those, it's best to use a data blocker, like this one.

You could try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/RIITOP-Female-Connector-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01KJPUI5W/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518395451&sr=1-12&keywords=internal+usb+hub

But I think your best bet is to get a slim external one that just lays out back.

Hi, could someone confirm that this USB charger with this USB C cable are safe and powerful enough to charge the Switch while playing?

This doesn't really answer his question.

An audio interface takes an XLR input or inputs and outputs it to your computer via USB. A typical audio interface such as the Xenyx 302USB will provide some functions such as zero latency monitoring, phantom power and built-in preamp/s. There are also very simple audio interfaces like this XLR to USB cable or the many cheap USB soundcard dongles you find online (I wouldn't recommend either of these options unless you are using a dynamic microphone).

A standalone preamp takes the signal from your microphone and amplifies it to a usable signal before sending it to an audio interface. You do not need a standalone preamp to use an XLR microphone.

XLR microphones also sometimes require "phantom power", which many audio interfaces can provide (THE AFOREMENTIONED XLR TO USB CABLE DOES NOT PROVIDE ANY PHANTOM POWER). This is often labelled on a button on your interface as "+48". If your interface doesn't provide enough phantom power, you'll need to also purchase a phantom power supply. Your XLR microphone plugs into the phantom power supply, then from the phantom power supply, it connects to your audio interface.

How much voltage (phantom power) do you need for an XLR microphone?

• Dynamic microphones (such as the Shure SM58) don't require any voltage
  
• Electret condenser microphones (such as the NW-700) only require ~5V
  
• Full condenser microphones may require 48V (the AT2020 is an example of a full condenser microphone that is listed as requiring 48V, but actual can run on considerably less)
  
  Now finally, to answer your original question, what do you need to use an XLR microphone? You need:
  
  
• An audio interface
  
• A phantom power supply (assuming that your interface doesn't supply it and that your microphone requires it)
  
• An XLR microphone (duh)

I bought a 32' USB extension:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works great. When you buy a long one, just be sure it's "active".

One from Amazon if you would rather buy from there. Great idea though!!

HIGHROCK 30cm USB 2.0 a Power Enhancer Y 1 Female to 2 Male Data Charge Cable Extension Cord(1pc) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NIGO4NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5wwFzb1SRNQH8

Regarding the drives, most USB laptop drive enclosures should run from 500mA provided by a normal USB port, but if they're giving you an issue, you could always get a Y-adapter (something like this) and supplement with any wall-wart USB charger. Also, using a desktop drive in an enclosure with an external power supply should also work.

Also FWIW, I can't think of any codecs that require bitrates in multiples of 5Mb. In any event, it's probably just a guestimate where they're using different bitrates for different types of content, and this is where they think it nets out for a "typical" user.

I really like your idea, Falser. I'm not quite as anti-mouse, but I'm interested in replacements that aren't just a USB gamepad. At the lowest end, looks like Amazon sells individual digital (no analog) USB pedals for $10, and of course they go up into $100+ from there. Could be a cheap proof of concept test.

http://www.amazon.com/HDE®-Video-Game-Racing-Foot-Pedal/dp/B0098PLPOI

I have had good luck so far with the AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB-A Male 3.1 Gen2 Cable - 3 Feet (0.9 Meters). At the same time I updated to the April 1st 2019 security update. Since both of those Auto has been rock solid. Before that I'd get several disconnects to the point of getting a similar USB device error, even on short drives.

I still have to unlock the phone to get Auto started, unlike all the other phones in my household that connect automatically even when locked.

My HU is a Sony XAV-AX100.

Or you could save money and get any other USB type C wall adapter and cable. These are just examples but I'm sure there are even cheaper combinations. Don't pay more for something that says nyko on it.

Wall adapter

Cable

Edit:

More

options

I seem to be having some issues with my extension cables.

Tracking is sometimes good, but sometimes one of the controllers floats off and then snaps back to my hand. Other times a controller doesn't show up for a bit, but will if I press a button. When I'm playing Space Pirate Trainer the screen will sometimes shift and snap back into place. Usually when I die in SPT the game freezes and I lose video on the headset. The sound continues to work, but pulling the triggers on the controllers doesn't seem to produce any shooting sounds. Only the music continues to play.

I have this 40 ft HDMI cable

I have this 32 ft USB 2.0 cable

Does anyone have any idea what the issue may be? I assume it has something to do with the USB cable.

Thanks!

The Essential phone is very, very picky about cables and chargers. The cable they included in the box is a very low quality cable and should be replaced for purposes besides charging. If you bought during an eBay special, you may have an unusually low quality charger.

For optimal (fast) charging, you want a high quality USB-PD rated USB wall (or car) charger supporting USB-C to USB-C charging.

Something like this, this, or this along with a USB type C to type C cable.

Once I switched to doing it this way, my phone started to charge rapidly every time.

I'm pretty sure that mic needs an XLR cable and some kind of mixer or audio interface that plugs into your computer. I could be wrong but I don't think the XM8500 is usb.

It seems you need to keep $ low so something like this would probably work:

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Cable-Instruments-Microphones/dp/B0050CEEIW

Though something like this would be much better:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Icicle-Converter-Preamp/dp/B001EW5YQS

Joystick, n52 SpeedPad, a pair of rudder pedals , and hopefully an Oculus Rift, if they're good and affordable by then.

Oh that's what cbxxxx was saying wasn't it. Have you done that? And it works? I thought usb chargers used the data wires to determine how much current to allow?

Edit- thanks for the advice, just ordered this Y cable that'll let me do exactly what you said. Hopefully that'll solve the problem

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NIGO4NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9hdZAbX7R2GQQ

Anker did a survey on their community forums earlier this year gauging interest in such a product. So it is at least on their minds.

There are some serious hurtles to selling a Huawei SuperCharge compatible charger. Because of how different Huawei SuperCharge is from most other fast charging standards.

• Anker would need to either license the tech from Huawei. Or come up with their own tech which can mimic it. Like how PowerIQ 2.0/3.0 mimic Qualcomm's Quick Charge.
  
• A Huawei fast charger has power converter circuits in the charger. Most other phones have it in the phone. So the charger itself is more complicated and expensive.
  
• It must include a 5A USB-C to USB-C cable. Anker currently only has one cable with those specs, and it costs $20. They likely would need to design a new, slightly cheaper cable (no USB 3.1).
  
• A Huawei fast charger will not fast charge any other brand of phone. By offering PowerIQ 3.0 Anker can catch more iPhone and non-Huawei Android users. A Huawei charger would only be for Huawei owners. And Anker would have increased returns from non-Huawei users buying it, thinking 25-40W would charge their phone faster.
  
• Huawei is the 2nd/3rd most popular brand of smartphone in the world. But that is mostly in Europe and Asia. The US market is negligible. And Huawei hasn't been doing well in US news this year due to the political issues. Anker serves all those regions, but a new product that won't thrive in all regions is less attractive.
  
  Contact Anker and add your vote for them making such a charger. But also understand the technical and marketing issues involved. It isn't as easy of a sale as you think.

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Video data:

Field|Data

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Title|Turning a broken record player into a bluetooth speaker
Thumbnail|Link
Views|99
Length|06:36
Likes/Dislikes|4/0
Comments|0
Description|In this video, I take my sister's broken record player, take out all the old parts, and put in the new bluetooth components. ⤶new parts list:⤶⤶female power jack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QJAW9F4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶5v male power jack to usb:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003MQO96U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶5v wall charger:⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XUY0DFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶aux cord (3.5mm): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078F718PM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶bluetooth receiver board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FU12QC8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1⤶⤶amplifier board: ⤶https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077MKQJW2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Thumbnail|Link
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Videos|9
Views|23568



^/u/SmallYTChannelBot ^made ^by ^/u/jwnskanzkwk. ^PM ^for ^bug ^reports. ^For ^more ^information, ^read ^the ^FAQ.

Most likely. Where are you plugging that cable in?

Chances are your laptop only has audio out, and that cable needs an audio-in. the easiest thing would be get a USB to XLR adapter, something like this

I used this one with pretty good results: http://www.amazon.com/HDE%C2%AE-Video-Game-Racing-Foot-Pedal/dp/B0098PLPOI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1377381774&sr=8-4&keywords=foot+pedal

It did break after a few months though.

what an awesome idea. and caps lock?! what have i been doing my entire life reaching all the way over to t lmao. could maybe modify a piano sustain foot pedal?

​

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Pedal-Video-Control-Hands-Camera-Footswitch/dp/B0098PLPOI

they do exist. would have to bind it to a specific key that you set for ptt, but it is feasable.

They sell those. They used to be pretty popular when USB had a 400 mA max. Or make one I suppose.

I've been very satisfied with the quality of these braided Anker cables. I've had them for nearly a year and their good as new, fitting into the controller snuggly.

Does the mic have a non-permanent cable? if it does, you could use something like this usb to xlr cable.

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Female-Cable-Instruments-Microphones/dp/B0050CEEIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841494&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+to+XLR

Or if its a permanent cable, maybe something like these

http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841671&sr=8-8&keywords=USB+to+mic

http://www.amazon.com/iLuv-USB-Audio-Adapter-iCB758WHT/dp/B007PFZEKY/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1398841671&sr=8-9&keywords=USB+to+mic

Then it's probably the link being funny about that cable, seems to be a bit picky with certain cables and motherboards. There is a thread somewhere on this Reddit with tested cables.

​

The first cable I got also didn't work. These are the two cables I am using(confirmed by multiple people also to work together):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017COHTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That last part is interesting. Makes me want to get a phone for security that has a USB Condom built in. Would mean no transferring data over USB, but would be funny to see them try.

I use Anker PowerLine+ really nice strong cable and charges rapidly.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B06Y25Y6WX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah the headset does tilt a bit, enough to press into your face. If you take it off and just hold it in your hands you can see the side arms can rotate up and down, maybe like 10 degrees or so, which in turn changes the angle of the display part. On me this shift is enough to almost close the nose gap.

I use 2x 5m active USB 3.0 extenders that look like the Monoprice / CableCreations ones (a lot of people gave them good reviews on here), but they're generic branded so cheaper and would be the same components, as a few companies just rebrand them:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA0U08M

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179MXKU8

You don't need a TB3 cable.

Just look for the 10gbps or Gen 2 in the description and get a cable from Anker, Monoprice, AmazonBasics or Plugable. These are always 3.3ft (1m) or less see the table here https://community.cypress.com/docs/DOC-10693

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7NS3DD (cheapest of the bunch)
   
2. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24285
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Powerline-Delivery-Matebook-Chromebook/dp/B072JYDQ7N
   
4. https://plugable.com/products/usbc-c100/
   
   These brands can safely be recommended.
   
   I distinguished this comment -- which is probably a slight abuse my mod privileges -- to signal that I know more of these affairs to avoid the "A said X, B said Y" dilemma. You need to trust me :)

Thanks, I believe I have that exact charger, works for quick charge the Note and also good enough for my nintendo switch in dock mode.

the cable I went for this one:
Anker PowerLine II USB-C to USB-C 3.1 Gen 2 Cable (3ft)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B072JYDQ7N/

Give these a try.... They will last longer than most... Still a good idea to buy more Every couple months lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DEMTOQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t5QKybK53Q5D0

Its not really about the cable, its about the adapter. Check and see how many milliamps your car charger has compared to your charger at work, and i can almost bet that the car charger is 1000milliamps(1amp) or better.

Assuming you have a smartphone, you want to have a charger that supports it.


As far as cables, this is what I use for charging. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GF8TIK/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i02

I'm surprised as well.
Some small corrections:
It's a 15ft active USB3 extension and a 6ft USB 3.1 cable connected to a 3.1 port.

Links:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AA0U08M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7TXTPP/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_OOU0DbE0MQPCW

I can confirm this combination works for me:


JOTO USB Type C Cable Extra Long 10ft, USB-C 3.1 Type-C to USB 3.0 Type A Charging Data Cable [Heavy Duty Nylon Braided]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B017COHTJ6


Maxhood USB C Type C Male to Female Adapter, Right & Left Angled 90 Degree USB-C USB 3.1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B071W22WNP


and then I tried the Active USB 3.0 repeater I bought for the Rift a couple of years ago and it worked!

UGREEN USB Extension Cable, USB 3.0 Male to Female Active Repeater Cable with Signal Amplifier

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01FQ88CE6

Anywhere really! Just search USB condom on your favourite website. These are the ones that I'm using and they work great!

My wife and I both have the Moto X4 and have never had any AA issues related to the phone itself. I have a Pioneer AVH-2300NEX head unit in my car, and have used my phone with factory AA units in several rental cars.

The only consistent issue I had for a while was AA thinking my phone was disconnected every time I went over a speed bump or sometimes even touched the cable. I tried several cables and all had some level of that issue, until I got this AmazonBasics cable. I haven't had any connection issue for months since I got that. I have that cable connecting through my cigarette lighter USB connection, and heated the USB cable with a hair dryer and wrapped it around a pencil to curl it and make it shorter. Works like a dream.

The only AA issue specific to the phone itself (Moto X4) that I know of is with LineageOS 16, which has a known bug that keeps AA from launching (several phones have the same issue with Lineage). As long as you're on the stock ROM, or at least a ROM built on stock, you should be fine.

So... your old MacBook with TB2... It's got USB 3.0 ports on it too right? Try a cable like this one...

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Adapter-Charger-Cable/dp/B01GGKYR2O1915

So it would only go 5 Gbps, but that's better than nothing and you still have a drive that will work with TB3 when you eventually need to rely on that port.

I think you’re looking for something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/RIITOP-Female-Connector-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01KJPUI5W/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?keywords=usb+3.0+expansion&qid=1574111989&sr=8-26

Yeah your GPUs are going to be the issue. Even with SLI. It might work but you’re well below the recommended performance level.

I've had good luck with good quality 3-6' cables. I got the same brand of 10', though, and the current suffered for it.

This, specifically, is the 6' cable that I use for most of my charging needs.

Hey all, I just wanted to report something.


I've been testing the assortment of cables I had around, and extensions.


Using this cable, this extension, and this PCIe Card I was able to get a 32 foot + 10 foot setup running fine. I tested it without the extension and could not see a difference in latency.
It does require active power.


Your results may vary, but I figured i'd share my test.

Here's what I did: https://imgur.com/a/eLx5m#05hYF6Z
I got a 12 to 5VDC converter (Amazon) and wired it to a USB hub, but I also hid a couple of USB sockets from home PCs like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/RIITOP-Female-Connector-Adapter-Bracket/dp/B01KJPUI5W/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1524239505&sr=8-6&keywords=USB+PC+panel
I just took them off the rail and zip tied them under the dash.
I also mounted a USB plug into an unused cover in the console, but that doesn't work as well.
The hub that I wired to the converter goes to my dash cam, I did have several other things in it, but it was easier to run 5 volts to different places than mange USB cable.
However my new S8 doesn't like charging off the 5 volts, so I ran 12 volts off the cigarette lighter, to one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ginsco-Cigarette-Lighter-Receptacle-Motorcycle/dp/B074YVQPKH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524239778&sr=8-3&keywords=cigarette+lighter+socket&dpID=41YKK92oIbL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Its, mounted under the steering wheel.

For anyone who might be in the same boat I purchased this dock which came with a USB C to C cable:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01FKTZLBS/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then I purchased this USB A to C cable to connect my Lenovo to the dock:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01GGKYR2O/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This setup works perfectly for both my thinkpad and my chromebook.

Have you tried and active USB extension cable? http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Meter-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B004AGX4YO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412608711&sr=1-1&keywords=active+usb+extension+cable

I have used those with printers people want on the other side of the room and they work ok.

Save yourself the trouble and buy from Amazon. USB cable charger for the 3DS can plug on computer or USB power adapter. Only 6 bucks free shipping with Prime.

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Crunch-Nintendo-Lifetime-Packaging/dp/B0071BJK34/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421951620&sr=8-6&keywords=3DS+Xl+charger

Yes. You could use something like this to do what you want: https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM

(along with the needed microUSB adapter)

Cable: 39.4 in (1 m)

Straight from Google Store

I ordered this 6 Feet Anker Cable and it works fantastic
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y25Y6WX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

In doing more research and making threads in VW specific forums, I've picked up this cable to try to see if it solves the issue. So often with AA, problems are caused by the cable you're using. This one is the most recent and advanced spec "USB 3.1 Gen 2" which is 10gb/s where Gen 1 was 5gb/s. I'm hoping this does it, since one symptom I did see was slowness. I've got a bit of a road trip this weekend, so I'll see if it works out.

I also read someone say that if your AA freezes up like that again, instead of turning off your car to do a full reboot, you can hold down the power button/volume knob until the infotainment system does a hard shutdown/reboot. Haven't needed to try that yet. I don't really drive during the week.

I hope apple changes the charger to something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CQTK6GU/

What you need is an active usb extension cable that will power properly. I use a 10 Meter active cable

you wont even need a type C port on the bank; you should be just fine a cable like this, but you will need a powerbank that supports quick charging to get the proper Amps.

https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-BreakSafe-Breakaway-Chromebook-replacement/dp/B01CQTK6GU
This neither uses the apple magsafe charger, nor is it "nearly flush". It's a start, and would certainly save the computer if you trip over the cord, but I don't like it sticking 1cm out the side of the computer like that.

Yep; I use https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098PLPOI/. So much better

These Mediabridge cables are the best I've found.

Amazon? https://www.amazon.com/HIGHROCK-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM/

I just made one out of an old MicroUSB cable and a Y-cable I had for a DVD ROM drive, but I guess getting a proper one would be a better idea.

Anker has the best braided usbc to usbc cable. I just bought one. Here.

Hey bro, I know nothing about your setup except what's in this post, so this might not be the cause at all, so take it or leave it. External HDD have trouble drawing enough power from one usb2.0 port on the WiiU, which can reportedly cause data speed issues. But, if you draw power from both WiiU usb2.0 ports with something like (http://www.amazon.com/Power-Enhancer-Female-Charge-Extension/dp/B00NIGO4NM), the HDD seems to keep up pretty well. It's a 3$ solution if the problem gets too annoying. Cheers!

I've looked a bit into this as well and the Mugen does seem to be the only 'integrated' solution. It's nice that you can bolt it on relatively seamlessly but I also decided I don't want to carry the extra weight around all the time (or a little screwdriver to constantly change it in and out).

Personally I ended up adding this external charger to my Amazon wishlist for next time I travel along with this USB 3DS charger cord for about $60 less put together. (And I'll get to charge my iPhone with it too!)

This is my ipad-focused case that I keep in my backpack. It contains the following:

(1) USB C to Lightning Cable

(1) USB C to USB C Cable

(1) USB A to Lightning Cable

(1) Foldable Keyboard

(1) USB C Hub

(1) 45W USB C Power Bank & (1) 45W Wall Charger

(1) Set of Apple Airpods

(2) 128GB Flashdrives

I'm also using this case for my iPad, and this screen protector.

Hope this helps!

How does this cord compare the $9 one you linked? Of course, I'd rather buy the $9 cord, but I'd get the $20 if there was a reason to do so. I plan to use this primarily with my Switch and Switch branded Anker PD 20000. Thanks!

this one works great

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017COHTJ6

I have this simulator cable from Amazon and it works great on my flysky transmitter and Windows 10 pc. There are also cheaper options from banggood if you are willing to wait

This cable works great for me https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D175HMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1