(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best video converters

Yes and no. It's a clone of a LengKeng scaler that you can find on ebay for about 50 bucks.

I have a similar box but it's SCART to HDMI so I have composite, s-video and RGB. Honestly it's okay. It tries to deinterlace 240p video so it can't handle flicker effects properly and when stuff moves it applies like a blur filter on it. It's really not noticeable in play. The only thing is on composite it does basically the same job as my TV (but I think my TV actually has a very good scaler built in). Honestly if you're gonna grab one of these do it, but grabbing a Cvid Scart to HDMI from amazon or a Lenkeng brand one from ebay is the better investment.

If you have the Scart port you can buy adapter for like 5 bucks that allow you to hook up composite and s-video, plus you can invest in RGB cords so your older consoles look at their absolute best. It'll tide you over until you find a really nice scaler like an XRGB mini or something on ebay for a really good price.


http://www.amazon.com/CVID-BG-460-System-Digital-Converter/dp/B00988GMLG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1GEOXRSZ3YMVF&coliid=I10E8ZKAW3VYBF

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=lkv360&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xlkv362&_nkw=lkv362&_sacat=0

Are the two scalers I mentioned. The ebay one might require you to buy a euro to US plug adapter. Mine got shipped with a euro power adapter but it handles 110v-220v so I just bought the plug adapter and it works.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Belkin-Switchable-Adapter-Scart-to-S-Video-3-RCA-Composite-DVD-TV-XBOX-F8V3017cp-/251489205809?pt=UK_Computing_Sound_Vision_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item3a8decbe31

And that is the composite and s-video adapter I was talking about. Buy something like that from amazon or ebay. Just make sure your seller is from the UK. You'll get the same price but much faster shipping. Mine came in the next week from some other seller.

> What is your IPD?
Personally around 61

> How is the clarity around the edges compared to other headsets?
It's great - in contrast the Rift S I just sent back was awful at the edges. Blurred image with a breaking of the colors between RGB - and it's at more than just the very edge. The Reverb only blurs at the extreme edge (so not an issue)

> Have you played any racing games and can you touch on your experiences with these games. For instance, does the reverb make it significantly easier to look into the distance compared to other headsets? Or is there more improvement necessary in terms of PPI?
Yes, I've been a racing instructor for 10 years so this is really my first love (play more Elite as I run an Elite based Youtube channel now). Yes, it's significantly easier to read your opponents name and car type at about double the distance of the Rift CV1. Now in racing everything is moving so quickly that SDE isn't as big a deal as it is in say a flight sim but it's definitely better. Just more immersive as you're not looking at the cars through a screen door. Does it make you faster, no, as even with a shitty headset you can still judge distances very well.

> Good luck on the cable extension, these things can get tricky, hope it works out well. What are you going to use for your cable extension solution?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IE3IAIS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's only a 60Hz (or rated for) but I couldn't find a powered repeater that was any higher. I have a note into HP R&D to see what they are playing with as they are testing some. Since I'm running at 60Hz anyway this may work there (I don't need it for my setup, just testing for you fine folks)

I use a Roxio Game Capture that I got for $80CDN, but Amazon has for much cheaper, but apparently it only captures at 480p.

This model is component video only, but they have a more expensive model that does HDMI model as well.

It works well enough; does pass through video to your TV so you can play while capturing to your computer. Since the hardware does all the compression with the video, even a laptop with a modest C2D processor is able to handle it.

Here's a Roxio propaganda site and here's a video review I came across that seemed pretty fair to me.

The problem is they're all going to be compressed somewhat by the external device. If you want super-sharp grabs, you're going to need something better that doesn't do compression on its own, such as a frame buffer grabber like the Black Magic Intensity. Happily, they have come down in price quite a bit.

Hope that helps.

Thanks so much for the review! I have this one currently: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008COJXHC?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I use it on my 1080p screen, but when I use it it's so much darker than going straight through VGA. Question for you - I'll be likely getting a 4K tv at somepoint and those don't have VGA ports... would you recommend that mini VGA to HDMI converter? I'm a pretty casual gamer but would love the optimal visuals if I can

Edit: just read your review of the mini converter. It looks to me like it's more of the picture I'd be looking for! Thanks again

I have a similar issue with my setup. I have a Tv with hdmi inputs and a digital audio out, but for some reason it will not output anything through its digital out. I’ve tried adjusting settings and trying other devices but still no luck. For the majority of my other diveces I can simply plug in a spdif/toslink cable straight to my receiver (which doesn’t have hdmi) while still sending the hdmi to the tv. This doesn’t work with the wii u unfortunately as it lacks the digital out like you mentioned. I am looking at trying this converter http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HMVMQOS/ref=gno_cart_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AD7C755W08DM6 on amazon that says it will take an hdmi input and extract the digital audio to a spdif output and it will still output the hdmi signal as well. I haven’t tried this yet, but it claims to support all devices including consoles. My only concern is the potential for latency… If any one has tried one of these converters I would love to hear if it works as expected! (Oh and just for grins I would suggest you try changing the wii u audio to surround in settings (the tv's not the gamepad) and then check to make sure that your tv is outputing surround in it’s settings and see if that works before resorting to buying this device.)
Edit: Also you need to make sure your reciever is set to auto mode or more ideally set it manually to use PCM as this is the only type of surround sound that the wii u will output.

Hey all.

I have an n64 hooked up to my hdtv on composite cables. Obviously it looks pretty terrible. I know the best native solution is to hook it up via s video, but my tv doesn't have that. My options are-

Buy a crt with s video input. This keeps it at the expected display capacities but is super cumbersome to have two TVs and also not future proof.

Or

Get a composite to hdmi adapter. This seems a sexier option but I'm worried that it will just stretch out the composite signal rather than put forth the best possible signal (s video quality) into the hdmi. I was looking at this one: Teorder RCA Composite AV CVBS to HDMI Audio Video Mini Converter Adaptor Full HD 720P 1080P with USB Charge Cable Support PAL/NTSC for PS3/STB/ Xbox/VHS/VCR/Blue-Ray DVD Players/TV/PC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6R3VEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WjTMybT2MR3P3


Can anyone comment on this? Will both alternatives produce similar results or is one vastly superior? Thanks.

I would like to share that these items have worked for extending the Index on my particular rig:

StarTech Active DisplayPort Repeater : https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IE3IAIS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

15' DisplayPort Cable: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y1QP9FV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

15' Active USB 3.0 Cable: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C2KWVG1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I doubt it makse a big difference in relation to the DisplayPort, but the video card I am using on this rig: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GJKR7RW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I originally tried a 6' male to female DisplayPort extender, but could see 'sparkles' in the HMD. Once I added the active repeater, everything worked great - at 6' and 15'. I used the default adjustment on the repeater.

Outside of the brighter dark areas of the Index vs. other OLED HMDs (have a OG VIVE and Samsung Odyssey +), I absolutely love the Index!

I am a streamer who is looking to improve my set-up over this summer. One of the things I am looking to do is separate the audio from my game system to a USB mixer I am looking to pick-up. My big tradeoff would be that no longer I'd have separate tracks on OBS Studio (where it records the audio) but with easily being able to adjust audio live better through a mixer I think it's worth it.

-
So my set-up would be Game System HDMI Out -> Capture Card HDMI-In -> Capture Card HDMI-Out -> HDMI Splitter -> HDMI Audio Converter Extractor -> USB Audio Mixer.

Essentially after the audio converter, I'd plug this in (RCA Cables) into here (L and R Tape In on the board.) Sorry if I'm not technical enough...still learning a lot. Is this correct and would it work well?

How would I be able to send the sound out to a venue's sound system and then be able to control what they can hear on it while maintaining the stream on my computer captures a different sound?

For example: When an actual match is being played I do NOT want the commentators being heard on the live PA system as it would disrupt the competitors...so at that point I'd want the sound going to the venue system to be turned off...but once the game ends I'd want them to speak to the venue about any deals showing on screen, in general getting the crowd hype, etc. How would that be possible?

Thanks for any help you can give!

Hmm, so you've tried inputing a vga to hdmi lead into the console before? My understanding is that Analog (VGA) to Digital (HDMI) requires conversion via something like this

Edit: Amazon Comments seem to support this belief.

Edit 2:
I know you didn't really ask for this advice but seeing as the converter looks to cost ~$20-25 and may actually result in lower quality (VGA can increase in resolution but loses sharpness as it is filtered by default) you might consider upgrading your GPU. That way there's no extra wires, you get a crisp clean signal, a slight performance boost, and it's all for about the same price and more or less guaranteed to work where the converter may or may not.

• Radeon HD 2400 Pro (current) + convert == 126 points $21.79
  
  Output = VGA
  
  
• XFX Radeon HD 5450 1GB DDR3 == 200 points ($35)
  
  
  Output = VGA, DVI, HDMI
  
  
• EVGA GeForce 210 1GB DDR3 == 185 points ($19.99)
  
  
  Output = VGA, DVI, HDMI
  
  
  That's just a two second search on Newegg. Like I said I know you didn't ask but I thought you might like the heads up before spending money that might unknowingly benefit you more elsewhere. Also to be clear these cards assume your current card is PCIe. Most of your card model are easy to tell with a quick google search if you don't know already.
  
  
  

Just get a first-party S-Video cable and an S-Video to VGA adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-Video-Converter-Screen-Version/dp/B003NUN7DG

That would be the easiest way to get a decent quality signal (The S-video looks far better than starting with composite). Obviously a mod on the digital out is the best way, but this might just work.

EDIT: There was a Gamecube Aficionado on Amazon who tried this and seems pleased: https://www.amazon.com/review/R20WW7MOZDDE83/ref=cm_cr_dp_title?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B003NUN7DG&channel=detail-glance&nodeID=172282&store=electronics

It is technically an upscaled 480i image, so if you absolutely must have that sweet sweet p, you'd need a hard mod.

Hello, I have not tried a single switcher with audio extraction, but I have been using these devices in various combinations for my setups which have changed over time -

HDMI audio extraction:

IMAGE® HDMI to HDMI + SPDIF +... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMVMQOS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HDMI multiplexer:

C&E CNE46126 HDMI 5x1 5-Port... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0XPCGQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HDMI splitter:

Portta PET0104P HDMI Splitter 1x4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMN5N8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And finally as my audio goes to speakers without volume control built in:

Optical to RCA, Digital to Analog Audio Converter, Optical to Analog Converter with Remote, DAC Converter Support 192KHz/24bit with IR Remote Control, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCKQPGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bb1CR55BuC2uP

These devices work with each other well, and right now, I am using the HDMI audio extraction and optical to rca audio converter to connect my Chromecast to my projector and Bose companion 20 speakers, and it works great!

Hope this is helpful.

It's inconvenient and potentially lossy enough that I wouldn't use the Korg Gadget Switch version to do anything other than play around with my friends and family. You'd have to play a track while you hit "record" on the device to which you are sending the audio. If I were going to do it, I would go with the HDMI method they mention. You can buy a piece of hardware that will pull the audio off an hdmi signal and send it out. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524750911&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&psc=1

But if you are more interested in producing things you can work with, then even Korg's own Gadget program on iOS is better (and cheaper). If you're on Android like I am, then Caustic 3 or FL Studio is good. The DAW world is your oyster on the desktop. There are many options there.

The value to the Switch version will be the collaboration stuff I guess.

I know people like the XRGB but it's a bit pricey for me.

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00988GMLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works great for me. I just had to buy a SCART cable for my SNES. Also ended up working great for my old Japanese PS2 in allowing me to play rhythm games on an LCD without introducing unbelievable lag from upscaling.

Assuming you have a Windows computer, sounds like you need a [$19.99 USB 2.0 Video Capture Adapter for Windows Xp/2000/ Vista/ Win7/Win 8] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M7T8T1E/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00M7T8T1E&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)

This adapter has both S-video and A/V inputs - between the two of them, you should be able to make it work.

Hope this is helpful, good luck getting this done before Christmas and best of the holidays!

So for scart cables I always go through https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk a little longer to get delivered to the US but worth the time. So for scart to HDMI; a lot of people start out with one of the little black boxes: https://www.amazon.com/CKITZE-BG-460-System-Digital-Converter/dp/B00988GMLG (note link is generic an not to what you may need for your systems)

Now I have had hit and misses with these converters. And after I got a Framemister I realized they were so crappy. So spend you money wisely.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nd-F0apJZ6s Search Adam Koralick he has some great videos on the topic. Also the my life in gaming guys have some great videos. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCpvtp7mH0Cdq8FQUxcjDq0Q

I spent a lot on the mini black box converters and other HDMI upscales and in the end I gave them away because the Framemister just worked so much better. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHoOKLWIMKU&t=475s shows the alternatives.

Personally speaking I'd recommend getting a component to HDMI converter (I use this one and it works great but there are plenty of other models to choose from if you want something else) paired with some nice quality component cables (either the official Sony PlayStation 3 ones since they work on the PS2, or the PS2 component cables sold by HDRetrovision), I went a couple of low quality third party ones before spending the extra money on the nicer cables, it's well worth it.

Yes, it is. I'd go with the RGB Scart route then output to HD. That's the best way to get a great OEM picture.

Scart Hdmi to Hdmi Video Converter Box 1080p Scaler 3.5mm Co https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MUNIVRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KfzuzbMRK4ZT7

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/172726306454

It may be expensive, but it's better than cutting up your game console. But I'm​ not telling you what you should do with your thing. It's your choice, but with the amount of Genesis/Mega Drives that were sold, the supply is dwindling. It's better safe than sorry.

that has no HDCP support though. I don't know if the Chromecast has HDCP or not though.

I had a similar issue of no HDMI support on my el cheapo projector, but mine allows for a component connection via the D-sub vga connection as well, so I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVNUAEI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 to concert from HDMI to component, then just a simple adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00213KFHW?keywords=component%20vga&qid=1457799452&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

My projector is only 720 though, and I can't say I really like the hdmi/component convertor... it works well enough, but has a tendency to "blip" and act like it's had it's signal reset. it usually happens quickly and you don't really miss anything, but it's just kind of annoying. I'd like to find a better solution still.

>would have required a large and expensive upscaler

Oh no, they make RGB scalers the same size, on very small boards.

This one, specifically is only $20 more than the one he purchased, and comes recommended specifically from Adam Koralik of FIOP:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00988GMLG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> it wouldn't have fit in the console itself.

This model, as well as the model shown in the video, both use 5v power, and are both small enough to fit within the console.

This RGB scaler is 4x4x1 inch. The Composite scaler he used is 3x2.5x1 inch. There is plenty of room under the "bubble" on the model 1 for either of these scalers to fit

>Converting the RGB signal to HDMI is way more complicated

The SCART signal is already output through the A/V pinout on the back of the model 1.

You simply wire Sync from pin 1 on the genesis a/v out to pin 20 on the SCART scaler,

and then run RGB from pins 7,3, and 8 on the genesis a/v out to pins 15,11, and 7 on the SCART scaler.

Finally, you run stereo L and R from the stereo jack on the front of the system to pins 6 and 2 on the scaler, and connect all your grounds.

It would have only been 3 extra wires (assuming he used a unified ground) to have used RGB instead of composite, but VASTLY improved the video quality.

He could have spent 20 extra dollars, and done the same amount of work, to have a glorious looking genesis.

Ya you definitely don't want to convert all the way down to Composite if your PVM accepts component, converting HDMI to Component will give you a much better picture which is why I assume you bought the PVM in the first place yes? BTW which PVM is that? I use one of these boxes for converting my Xbox One to component to play on my XBox One on my HDM 14E5U. Its about 35$

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JVNUAEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could also use one of the HDFury's but I think they all start at about 100$ for the very cheapest. Though they are a higher quality product. You do get what you pay for in this case, though for my the Portta plenty good enough and I'm pretty picky about video quality.

I also have a Bravia and I have had success using this with this adaptor and it's been working great. Good luck!

HDMI -> Component video converter worked like a charm. I now have 720p IN, converted to 1080i OUT

Strongly recommend this bit of hardware for anyone hooking up current-gen consoles to Component Video-IN displays. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LVMAWG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Boring explanation of what it can do:

It will actively send a test signal output + UI when console is not currently sending any video signal. The UI (which will auto-timeout once video signal is coming from console) shows what resolution and framerate is coming IN, and being sent OUT. There's a Video button on the device, which will cycle through different viewable resolutions (!). It's surprisingly cool, highly recommended.

Nice post. I am in the US and my set up is

Tomee VGA cable
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPU96FI/ref=sr_rp_1?m=A26BKZHHS8SI0Z&ie=UTF8&qid=1457962972&sr=sr-1&keywords=tomee+vga

Etekcity VGA to HDMI upscaler
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Scaler-Converter-Adapter-Laptop/dp/B008COJXHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457963006&sr=8-1&keywords=etekcity+vga

Also need this to convert the audio
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0141KPE50?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

It works great and looks amazing seeing the DC in 1080p. The only issue I had is to make sure you plug the VGA cable in tightly. It fits more snugly than it is supposed to and if it isn't pushed in all the way, it won't work.

I have been struggling to find a cable extension solution for the PiMax since I got mine last month. I suspect the challenges with the Valve Index will be similar.

​

For the setup in my studio a 45ft extension is ideal. I've had HDMI and USB solved at that distance for years with the Vive and Oculus CV1. DisplayPort seems to be much more finicky, especially at high resolution and refresh rates.

​

So far the only cable I have tried that works consistently with all resolution and refresh rates is this 10ft extension from Cable Matters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L1K1KDE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This 15ft Tripp Lite cable does work most of the time, but I have had a few instances where the headset would not initialize on startup trying to run the Large FOV at 90Hz. But when it has intialized it has worked fine:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06Y45L3X3

​

Anything longer than that has not worked for me. Other people have reported success with these Delock extensions at 7.5m and 10m. I was able to get a German vendor to send them to me, and the 7.5m has worked a few times with the small FOV at 60Hz but nothing better than that and I never got the 10m to work at all.

https://www.delock.com/produkte/S_84906/merkmale.html

​

I've also tried active/optical cables with couplers but had no luck at all... I would be totally willing to pay the price for a cable like this if it worked, but in my testing it did not:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFXVXSF/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_aFzICb5ENJ14H

​

I even tried this StarTech active signal booster with no luck:

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Signal-Booster-Video-Amplifier/dp/B01IE3IAIS

​

​

For reference, here is a thread about it on the PiMax forums:
https://forum.pimaxvr.com/t/cable-extension/11603/25

As far as getting the episodes onto your tv, it's going to depend on what type of computer you have and what inputs you have on your tv.

A lot of newer computers have HDMI outs and if your TV has an HDMI in it's as straight forward as just connecting the two with an HDMI cord.

-----

If the computer is older, there is a good chance you have an S-Video out. Assuming your TV has an S-Video in, you'll need an S-Video cord.

If your computer doesn't have an S-Video or HDMI out, it definitely has a VGA out. VGA doesn't convert well to standard TV in's but there is a chance, if your TV is newer, that it will have a VGA in. If it does, you can connect with a VGA cord.

If none of the above options work and you're really desperate you can use a VGA to HDMI converter which is pricey. Obviously, your TV would need an HDMI in.

Now, the three solutions below the hyphens are only for video. For Audio you're going to need to run out of your headphone jack which can be done with a cord like this. You'll need to make sure that you match the audio cords to the video channel (the video jacks and corresponding audio jacks are usually next to each other on the TV). If you have a separate speaker system, you can also run the sound straight into that.

Sorry for taking so long to reply.

I use an AverMedia Capture Card that runs $174.84. This card only works with desktops and needs to be installed on the mother board. It works very well.

If you don't have a desktop then you will probably want to use the Elgato Game Capture HD. It plugs into your computer via USB and is considered one of the si best.

A cheaper alternative is the Roxio Game Capture HD PRO. This plugs also connects to your computer via USB and includes it's own video editing software. It is cheaper than the others and runs at $99.99.

You also need a semi decent computer otherwise video editing will be a very slow process. It's really the editing part that uses the computer resources.

For editing I use CyberLink PowerDirector 12. It works pretty fast for editing and is cheaper than Adobe.

There are also free editing programs out there but I haven't really messed around with them to much. Message me if you have any questions. I hope this helps.

Here's one I just found on amazon. Make sure you get the right kind of device. I've bought adapters and they weren't the right kind. If you have a best buy, RadioShack or something similar it might be best to see if they have anything so they can answer questions. You can always shop around online later.

Also, Sega Genesis was my first system so I hope you can get it working.

Depends on what your goal is. If your goal is just to get the system to display on an old VGA enabled monitor, then you could probably use something like this. If you got this, it would also be a great idea to grab a Nintendo S-Video Cable as well. It will greatly improve the system's visual quality.

If your goal is getting better quality visuals overall using VGA instead of composite, you'll need to do more digging. There might be a way to modify your console to output RGB and then create a VGA cable specific to the n64, but it would likely be very involved. There are better ways to maximize the n64's output.

Ha, I've got practically the same setup. Same Ikea unit, but I use the double-drawers for the bottom row. I only keep the two most recent generations of consoles out though; the rest I keep stored until I get the itch to go retro.

What's your A/V switching solution? I personally use one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTD-0801-Multi-Functional-Converter/dp/B008VWGLXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416200229&sr=8-1&keywords=JTD-0801

You might need two of these, but they work perfectly!

I just did the same thing a few weeks ago

There are a couple of cheap $15 dollar ones on Amazon. I picked up: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6R3VEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XA-Hzb3RHW5CP

It works okay and I get good quality on a 1080p computer monitor. Looks like crud on a 4k screen. Which I just use my receiver that has 4k upscaling and it looks a whole lot better quality wise. There are a few multiple input devices on there that are like a receiver that I was tempted to get, but for the same price you can get a nice video capture card that you can stream with.

Either way, just check out the reviews.

Some monitors will have a headphone out, even if they don't have speakers (I've never seen a monitor with decent speakers anyway). So it's worth checking for that. It's also worth noting that cheap monitors with headphone out often have fairly poor sound quality, so test it out first if possible.

Finally, if your monitor doesn't have any sort of audio out, there are some more options, but they may require extra cash.

First is the PS4s headphone out. Unfortunately that is on the controller, so it's not really suitable for setting up a sound system/speakers - and really only good for actual headphones.

Second is the PS4s optical audio out. This is probably the best choice if you're using a sound system anyway, but often only mid-high range sound systems actually have an optical in - so it's a very expensive choice if you don't already have speakers that accept optical in.

Finally, you CAN get an HDMI audio extractor/splitter. Something like this (I think). I've never used anything like this, and they seem to range in price a LOT, so the cheaper ones may be very unreliable or drop audio/video quality.. Don't really know.

I bought a Roxio Game Capture HD PRO that uses rca inputs and would probably work well with a gamecube. It isn’t the best quality but they’re also pretty cheap on amazon. Might be worth a try.

I use this Scart to HDMI converter
Scart Hdmi to Hdmi Video Converter Box 1080p Scaler 3.5mm Coaxial Audio Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MUNIVRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2VJ5ybHXC0RNV

Here is a scart cable. You can search for online retailers that'll have higher quality ones, but figured I send you this link as well.

Gam3Gear RGB Scart Cable for SNES GameCube N64 NTSC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8RCWK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MWJ5yb9EVJ8S2

I've been using this converter and haven't had any issues and I'm so impressed with the picture quality in my 55" tv

Edit: this will be the best jump in quality from a S-Video. There are other upscalers out there that do an even better job, but expect to drop a couple $$$ dollars on those.

I feel like provided I have a small shelf I can fit them all. Requires some planning for sure.

It seems like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008VWGLXO/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8 while expensive will be a high quality solution to all the 6th+, and even has a VGA input for the dreamcast. Then that same company has an audio extractor for $25 that will let me do optical out for the audio, to the PC, so that way I can have the audio.

Any clue if that box has a version with more inputs? I don't mind using component for the PS3 since HDCP will probably be an issue anyway.

Yes, it's very much worth it. If you're on a budget I recommend the following:

SCART Cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UKLIY3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Scaler Box:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00988GMLG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use these with my Sony 4K and they work great. Very sharp, good sound and no noticeable lag.

Yeah you can't put a PCIe card into a laptop. Like the other person said you should look into upgrading your computer.

However there are VGA to HDMI adapters... https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6

But your laptop probably can't output full 1080p HD. Sounds like it can only do 720p.

Also many TVs have VGA input. Make sure you have to use HDMI.

But you could probably find a used $150 laptop with HDMI and much more capable. Or for about $250 you can probably get an i3 laptop. $400-500? You might be able to get a more modern i5 with a SSD drive.

You'd definitely need a PCI adaptor, of which one doesn't exist to connect an Xbox AV cable to a tv. You might have better luck with something like a VGA to HDMI adapter - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6

That is what I was thinking. I saw the RCA to VGA adapter. Seems like those are all for XXX to RCA, can't go the other way. Looks like I'm going to have to get one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-Video-Converter-Screen-Version/dp/B003NUN7DG

Thanks for all the help!

For 480i there are lots of downscalers you could use, old pro stuff like the Extron VSC series, most of which can do RGB formats, can also use cheapo HDMI to component up/downscaler boxes like https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Premium-Quality-Component-Converter/dp/B017LVMAWG

For 240p things get a lot trickier. Can sort of fake it by 480i -> 240p through some Extron RGB interface boxes, there are some fancy pro downscalers like a Corio2 that can do it directly with some programming, those are pretty expensive though.


Ideal MAME machine would be a PC that you can run CRT Emudriver on to get perfect resolution / refresh rates for any emulated system, arcade stuff often uses weird stuff that's not the usual 240p/288p.

That is true (just be careful if it is to something like HDMI, be sure it's not just a cable with a vga on one end and HDMI on the other, there should be a small box which has 1 cable going out on each end).

Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6

I don't think the adapter that you link will work for OP. That adapter is HDMI to VGA. These adapters usually only send the signal in one direction.

Pretty sure that OP needs something like this VGA to HDMI active converter.

Ah okay. by converter do you mean something like this? I don't know if that's the best choice, it just the first thing when searching on amazon.

Looks like that monitor has DVI-d and VGA inputs you could get a hdmi to dvi adapter but you'd still need speakers and with something like a fire stick the sound is output through the hdmi so you'd probably need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Analog-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00FCYKO8W?tag=georiot-us-default-20&ascsubtag=tomsguide-4041065924840252352-20

Honestly though you might be better off looking for a cheap used tv (with hdmi)

I had a similar situation to yours. I bought this and I'm very satisfied. Originally I bought it to connect (and upscale) my PS1 to the monitor, but the device has also HDMI in and audio out so I connect my PS3 to the monitor and use speakers/headphones for audio. Hope it helps.

Don't see why it wouldn't work but you'd be limited to 480p, important to make sure the Xbox is in the right display mode before you plug it in too. Something like this should work to go to hdmi and let you play in hd. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0088HO1UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_skD2BbZRSPDRC

To handle the video signal you would need something like this Composite to VGA adapter. I've never used this, so I can't say if it works.

As for audio, a good set of high quality computer speakers should work just fine, and something like this would probably enable you to connect the stereo composite audio cables to the speakers.

But I'm wondering why you have composite cables for an Atari 2600. Is it modded?

thanks!


i wish we had a 3m cable to test against, instead of the 5m stock cable... i'm wondering how many issues are caused by how far the dp spec is pushed.


i wonder if a dp amplifier would work with the index, and if it would help?

e/a: derp! put the link to a dp amplifier in

Well I use this converter (linked below). After a short review/study of that converter do you still think it’d be worth doing? If so I might give it a try. Also I can set the games resolution to divide evenly into 1080i. Wouldn’t that be easier?

Universal Premium Quality HDMI to Component Video Converter with RCA L/R & Optical Audio Outputs | Support 480i, 720P, 1080i & 1080P Video Output PAL & NTSC | Model: H2CS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LVMAWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qhAgDb0YBN1Z7

I was able to find one of these last year for a good price ($70 I think). My brother was also interested in streaming/youtube videos with his games. Using OBS, this ROXIO device, and a simple Logitech webcam it's suited his needs. OBS allows for live streaming directly, or recording.

EDIT: As mentioned by my Friend below /u/CountedBeef122 the software is OBS not OSB.

Link below is the one I bought. Like I've mentioned in other comments, sometimes there are popping sounds which do suck but for a free 65" it wasn't too much for me to get over.

Portta HDMI to 1080P Component Video (YPbPr) RGB + R/L Scaler Converter Adapter with R/L Audio output Support PS3, PS4, Blu-ray Player, DVD, XBOX, Notebook , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JVNUAEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_642wDbQ4GJGAV

You haven't mentioned if there's a 3.5mm audio jack in your monitor. If there is, (pretty common with monitors that have their own speakers) then plug a 3.5mm audio cable from your motherboard's onboard audio to your monitor. No need to involve the graphics card in this. Job done.

If you really insist on using your monitor speakers via HDMI and it's the only option, there are 2 ways you can get this done:

1. conversion kits that can take VGA for video, onboard audio via 3.5mm jack and convert both into a digital HDMI stream you can plug into a TV, or in your case a computer monitor.
   
   Here's one I found on Amazon. I can't speak for its performance but it's the kind of device that should do the job. I've heard it varies. You can look into other converters as well but make sure and verify it's VGA + audio -> HDMI, and not one that is HDMI -> VGA + audio
   
   or
   
   
2. be lucky and happen to have a video card with a DVI-D port that happens to carry digital audio channels in a nonstandard fashion. As per Wikipedia:
   
   >Some DVI-D sources use non-standard extensions to output HDMI signals including audio (e.g. ATI 3000-series and NVIDIA GTX 200-series).[9] Some multimedia displays use a DVI to HDMI adapter to input the HDMI signal with audio. Exact capabilities vary by video card specifications.
   
   The only way you'd figure this out is by plugging in your monitor using its HDMI port and connecting it into your video card's DVI-D port by using an HDMI to DVI adapter or a cable that's HDMI on one end and DVI-D on the other. You haven't mentioned the video card you're using so I can't tell you if you even have a DVI-D port or DVI-I port which might carry this feature.

It's one of the unbranded generic ones. All over ebay and amazon under different names.

And yes, it does 4:3 just fine, that's the only mode I'll accept. It even outputs letterbox bars on all four sides, but I can't guarantee every version will be the same.

https://www.amazon.ca/SCART-Video-Converter-Scaler-Coaxial/dp/B00MUNIVRO

> I don't have anything against SCART mind you, just would rather have a single box I can use for both (unmodded)

I get it. A device which can do both is the ideal, right?

For connecting soundbar to projector this is what I have and works perfectly/voices in sync.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074HHSJVN?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Soundbar works perfect for my casual use, if it sounds good to you that's all that matters, can always upgrade later on

You want this:

Musou HDMI Audio Extractor,HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink(SPDIF) + RCA(L/R) Stereo Analog Outputs Video Audio Splitter Converter Support 1080P,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZAruzbER8XCMG

Yes, you can cast to it just like an audio.

First problem I'm seeing right away: your Presonus will only support up to two microphones. You'll only have independent control over two XLR sources in your stream program. You're gonna need a 4-channel interface if you want independent control.

What you'll have to do for your headphone amp is to use a stereo 1/4" TRS cable into your main output, and then use this to get into the headphone amp.

As for the HDMI audio to go through the board, you would need something like this.

If you have more questions, I'll try to answer as best as I can.

there are cheaper ones, but id say this is the easiest way to hook them all up.

you can buy a switcher like this instead

Between the streaming box, speakers and an audio converter like this. Plus the amount you could sell the monitor for, you’d probably be best just buying a small smart tv.

Yeah. I would like to edit some of the video. I ended up purchasing a USB dongle and are archiving the files. Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M7T8T1E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like this is a problem that is tied to specific TV's?

Looks like the common solution seems to be installing one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B074HHSJVN?th=1

Just an FYI, the best possible picture from an N64 can be obtained by performing an RGB mod. Then you can output to HDMI with a SCART to HDMI adapter.

I just ordered this gadget to help resolve my 5.1 digital problems:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HHSJVN/

Hopefully it works. Right now my 5.1 digital output via TOSLink cable is only giving 2 channel stereo for everything. I can only assume that the Mi Box is reading whats on the other end of my HDMI cable which is my TV which only has two speakers (like most TV's do) so it's auto converting everything to stereo. Converting to stereo even through the TOSLink output.

It was either wait for Xiaomi to fix it which could be a long time.. maybe never...

or

Buy a new receiver that has HDMI processing built in. My receiver I have is older and has HDMI pass-through ports so it won't process anything.

hey again, i was wondering if you know something like this (link) would work? or is that only for visual? Also do you have an opinion if I should use hdmi or optical digital? Thanks!

I don't think running from your headphones is a great option long term. You can get something like this which splits the HDMI to video and audio

http://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Analog-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00FCYKO8W

Ones like:

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Component-Converter-Scaler-support/dp/B00JVNUAEI

You'll want to carefully review the feedback and Q&As, but any of them on Amazon that say HDMI to YPbPr (plus L/R audio) should be capable. So you run the HDMI cable from your computer into the HDMI input of the converter, then run component cables from that to your TV component inputs.

I guess we'll see. It's showing up tomorrow. There are reviews for it that state that they used it to connect from PC to 480i CRTs. I've seen a few youtube videos that have shown this as well. You can use things like CRUto create custom resolutions/refresh rates but you can actually do this through the Nvidia Control Panel as well, so I'll be starting there.

There are some in-depth guides here as well, like this one.

The specific device I got is this one. I'll report back once I've had some time to mess around with it.

This is the one I use. There is a pretty good review of it here.

You will need something like this along with a VGA cable, 3.5mm audio cable, and HDMI cable.

EDIT: Keyword like, you should shop around and make sure that the modes you want are supported (and have less one star reviews)

The RCA to headphone adapter is easily available, I have several myself.

And I apologize, didn't look into the adapter for RCA to VGA enough, that one I linked isn't what you'd need.

EDIT: scratch that, it would work it seems, though this one on amazon might be better.

This is what I bought. Portta HDMI to 1080P Component Video (YPbPr) RGB + R/L Scaler Converter Adapter with R/L Audio output Support PS3, PS4, Blu-ray Player, DVD, XBOX, Notebook , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JVNUAEI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p9gJDbA7NDTYG

It does the job and I’m happy. Also it lets you select between progressive and interlace which a lot of the others do not.

You could try a USB capture card. The quality won't be great, but it is going to be the best you are going to get without pulling the drive itself.

Find a dvd player with a USB outlet on it, if it does, a standard 2.0 usb will be fine.

Play it on your tv with the VCR attached and a blank tape in.

Record it

Use a VHS capture device to record it back to your computer. I have this and it's worked perfectly for all my needs. No need to get fancy, especially if you're going for lo-fi

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M7T8T1E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Thanks.

It's good to know that the wii2hdmi includes an hdmi audio option.

I'm currently looking at getting a component cable and component to hdmi adapter.

Costco used to do it.

Walmart used to as well where I used to live, not sure of the one in town.

https://www.amazon.com/TOTMC-Capture-Adapter-Windows-Window/dp/B00M7T8T1E/ref=br_lf_m_curhvwtw75x48wn_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=pc

You could order one of these, use free software on your PC, and just do it yourself as well as long as you have a VHS player.

If your monitor has only VGA (DSUB) input:
---

for the PS3: an HDMI to VGA adapter.

for the N64: Composite to VGA converter

for the SNES: The above converter plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.



-------------

If your monitor has only DVI input:
----

for the PS3: An HDMI to DVI cable (or adapter).

for the N64: the above cable/adapter plus component to HDMI converter

for the SNES: both of the above plus a component cable like this if you don't already have one.

I doubt such a beast exists. AGP was phased out around 2004, HDMI only became available starting around 2003, and that would have been for Home Theater applications. It would have been awhile after that before they started appearing on video cards.

You'll have better luck with a convertor, like this one on Amazon.

Its a SCART connector. Commonly used in Europe.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCART

Something like this to convert to HDMI:

https://www.amazon.com/Scart-Video-Converter-Scaler-Coaxial/dp/B00MUNIVRO

Edit, you'll also need a voltage convertor if you want to use it in the US, since that VCR will want 220volts.

If the VHS tapes were recorded on European equipment, they will probably be PAL rather than NTSC - something else to consider.

If they were recorded in the US or with US equipment, it might be simpler just to get a US VHS player instead. It will have composite or component video out, which hopefully your TV has at least one of those.

For our installations, we typically use something like this (it passes 4k 60fps), note the switch for 5.1 or PCM. We use a lot of J-Tech stuff, all their stuff is good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HHSJVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not any cheaper, but in case people are interested, StarTech sells a DP Booster box, you might be able to couple it with copper/"cheap" cables:

https://www.startech.com/AV/Extenders/dvi-dp/displayport-booster~DPBOOST

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Signal-Booster-Video-Amplifier/dp/B01IE3IAIS

I work in consumer electronics, and the box is tunable. However, the practical limitation is probably in the 5m-10m range, and I'm guessing you won't be able to find passive cables in that length anyways... The benefit of buying one of these boxes is if your cable gets damaged, the replacement cable(s) would be cheaper... it'd be a long term cost analysis problem. The other benefit is that this box has switchable settings, so it can even be used with short cables - if you have any signaling problems in general, chances are that it could clean them up.

A VGA to HDMI cable won't work unless your laptop specifically supports digital signal output through VGA (it doesn't, trust me).

You need a VGA to HDMI converter. Something like this. Not that exact one necessarily, I just put up the first result I got while searching. I just wanted to give you an idea of what it is you're looking for.

Edit: Review of the cable you want from Amazon puts it better than I ever possibly could.

>This cable is the equivalent of hooking a telephone wire to a water hose and expecting to make a call from your sprinkler.

Offhand, I you will likely need an HDMI->DVI adapter that includes a breakout for analog audio. It will also need to have a built-in amp if you want to plug headphones in directly.

First thing I found is this:

http://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Analog-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00FCYKO8W

So, for the cost, it looks like you might be better off just upgrading your bluetooth headphones.

Well, the xbox one has an AV out and a SPDIF audio out as well. So you have a few options if you have a receiver or headphone amp. Pulling audio from an HDMI only device would require a receiver or a device like this...

HDMI Extractor

1. Don't own one - but this is $20 and has over 1000 good ratings at amazon
   
   
2. Totally uncompressed (which consumer software doesn't do) runs about 1 GB/min for SD. If you want that, for $200 Black Magic Design makes the Intensity for $200 (see Amazon again) and it has it's own capture software. It needs usb3.

Get one of these converters and your dreamcast will look AMAZING on a HTDV. Same goes with SNES and a SCART cable.

I just checked the user manual for that model receiver and apparently it will NOT convert video formats (page 17). So I was wrong about that, sorry for the confusion.

Yes I suppose you will need to run a composite cable from your receiver to your TV (or directly from the console to the TV). I'm not aware of any "small" composite plug style, do you have a photo or a TV model number?

Another option would be to buy a AV composite to HDMI converter. I have no experience with those products but it seems like hooking up old consoles is a popular use case.

RGB mod is better then a Super64 EON. RGB has I believe 5 color. Super64 uses SVideo which has 2. RGB is transfered by a scart cable. Use your cable you linked with a scart to hdmi upscaler like this Scart Hdmi to Hdmi Video Converter Box 1080p Scaler 3.5mm Coaxial Audio Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MUNIVRO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pAoKDbZ3EZ9JJ

What you need is a "HDMI Audio Extractor":

1080p support: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/

4K support: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-Passthrough/dp/B074HHSJVN/

I found something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Portable-Converter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6

NO idea how well it works though, I've never used one.

One other thing to note, that is not a wide screen monitor really, it's also not full 1080p.

I'm just not for sure how well it would work with an Xbone or PS4.

DD+ Atmos is supported by the TV and Amazon over ARC however your receiver if its quite old may have trouble with this format. On paper the receiver should ignore the Atmos metadata and simply play a Dolby Digital Plus stream as is.

Optical does not support DD+ Atmos which is why it works, it's DD, DTS and PCM stereo.

Check for any firmware updates to the Denon, check the manual or try contacting them and asking if the DD+ support can be disabled on the AVR.

As to work rounds, there are HDMI-ARC audio extractors you can buy, these may or may not support DD+ so you can filter that format out effectively.

Get a FireTV stick and plug in into the receiver directly in the hopes it outputs either PCM 5.1 or DD 5.1.

Unfortunately LG do not offer anything other than ARC, pass-through (eARC) and PCM (stereo), you cannot disable DD+ on the TV as far as I'm aware.

A quick LMGTFY led me to this:
http://www.amazon.com/VGA-Audio-HDMI-Converter-Adapter/dp/B0015YWV1G

Like BlackCloud1711 said, VGA is analog, HDMI is digital. It requires an active device to convert from one to the other. This looks like a cheap one so be forewarned.

You'll need an active adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6

I've used an adapter a few times and haven't had any issues, I think it should work fine for you as well, but I didn't have two TV monitors in my setup, just one.

Something like this, maybe?
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity®-Scaler-Converter-Adapter-Laptop/dp/B008COJXHC#

I think you are looking for an adapter like this?:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FCYKO8W/ref=asc_df_B00FCYKO8W5062256/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00FCYKO8W&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194024095585&hvpos=1o8&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14742588745973565934&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012824&hvtargid=pla-311062684450

I don't know if there are cheaper out there. That's on you to find. Just make sure you get the appropriate DVI-I/DVI-D connection you need.

I’m using this one.

Universal Premium Quality HDMI to Component Video Converter with RCA L/R & Optical Audio Outputs | Support 480i, 720P, 1080i & 1080P Video Output PAL & NTSC | Model: H2CS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LVMAWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sczRDb8ZPRXFZ

I’ve only tested it with 16x9 with 1080p and 720p input and 1080i and 480i output. All at 60hz. It seems to work ok and I’ve only had it for a couple of weeks. I have had to power cycle it here and there because it doesn’t always work right. And I get a flicker super rare but no telling if it’s this thing or my tv.

Sorry, new to this but hope that helps.

AFAIK those signals aren't compatible, you will need a converter box and even then it's going to be choppy. You can try something like this and it may work:

https://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-Video-Converter-Screen-Version/dp/B003NUN7DG

Mileage will vary based on the monitor, resolution, etc and you will still need to convert the audio. You can buy something that can convert it to 3.5" and use it with speakers or something else, will likely need couplers or a cable that has female ends, but it would look something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Insten-3-5mm-Auxiliary-Cable-Cord/dp/B0042DIZTE

I was thinking about trying something like this.

DP booster. Anyone have experience with something like that?

Yep! Something like this lets you record off of console and OBS will pick it up as an external video device

I have this converter/upscaler,


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00988GMLG/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And I have a Genesis 1 SCART cable and am waiting on a Genesis 2 SCART cable from this place, where I recommend buying them from.


http://www.consolegoods.co.uk/


I actually haven't tried it out yet because I have a Genesis 2 plugged in and didn't want to mess with it. I'm being lazy so I don't feel like digging it out but if you can wait until the Gen. 2 cable comes in the mail I will be glad to let you know how I feel about it.

Thinking this is the list:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Feet-Resolution/dp/B06Y1QP9FV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=15ft+displayport&qid=1561998949&s=electronics&sr=1-3#customerReviews

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Signal-Booster-Video-Amplifier/dp/B01IE3IAIS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=4k+displayport+repeater&qid=1561996275&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Extension-Female/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=active+usb+3+extension+15ft&qid=1561999021&s=electronics&sr=1-4

Look good you think?

I use a Vive link extender box for my Odyssey+ so that I can extend my HDMI and USB (and be able to reset my USB by removing the DC power instead of disconnecting the USB cable) so I expect that I would need a Display Port booster like the following for the Reverb:

​

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Signal-Booster-Video-Amplifier/dp/B01IE3IAIS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=displayport+booster+extension&qid=1558712490&s=home-garden&sr=8-1-spell

Thanks very much for suggestion,

This worked for us as well.

​

Here is what we used from Amazon USA:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IE3IAIS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCZCVF8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And since there is enough cord for ceiling mount now:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GV8CNPW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Total of $175, but closest I can get to wireless for now.

$25 worth of easy

http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Convertor-support-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417977768&sr=8-1&keywords=vga+hdmi+converter

ok i see the difference there. i have component cables for my wii i just use a wii2hdmi for convinience and i didnt notice the difference switching from component to hdmi.


https://www.amazon.ca/Portta-N3CVTRH-Component-Converter-support/dp/B0088HO1UC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=7LXV2SZNI8UW&keywords=component+to+hdmi+converter&qid=1555784275&s=gateway&sprefix=component%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


that is what i use for my original xbox and a few other consoles ( console ---> component splitter ----> that adaptor ---> tv ) and it looks pretty good. only downside is it always assumes the video signal is square, but thats fixable with tv settings.

What about a converter paired with a normal HDMI Roku? This will provide better quality than using a composite input and allow you to use the Roku of your choice.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Premium-Quality-Component-Converter/dp/B017LVMAWG

Edit: To clarify, this is only if your TV has component inputs (RGB) not just composite.

The picture quality is bad but I am playing Mario Kart 8 on the Wii U.

It was tricky getting it to work because the sound system worked independently from the projector. I had to get this in order to split the audio from the hdmi and use an optical audio cable to connect to the sound system. Couple that with a 50 foot hdmi cable to connect the system downstairs (gamepad's range is not the greatest) and you have a fun night of smash and mario kart!

Hard to answer without knowing about your specific hardware. as MisterShine pointed out, the optical connection from XB to Stereo would go to an INPUT on the Stereo. Using the Stereo to convert that to analog stereo might be tricky. The obvious question is: Why not just listen to the audio via the Stereo? Why connect it to the TV at all? Maybe you have a reason this won't work for you, if so the cleanest solution might be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek%C2%AE-SPDIF-Extractor-Converter-output/dp/B00ECTHIKK/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VZ6W4HKGMZ1Y973YB3G2

This happened to my sister as well when I gave her one of my N64's. She texted me saying she couldn't get a picture on her TV. I had tried the console right before giving it to her so I knew it worked fine. Turns out that some newer TVs have trouble recognizing the N64's low video quality. After I suggested she buy an AV to HDMI it solved the problem right away.

​

https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01H3KTZUK/ref=pd_day0_hl_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01H3KTZUK&pd_rd_r=ad97fd56-eaa6-11e8-a1cb-bd18f79b5821&pd_rd_w=xfyc4&pd_rd_wg=B4qhQ&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=853CKP89PRDBE95J4AJN&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=853CKP89PRDBE95J4AJN

​

This was the exact one that fixed the issue, hope this information helps!

There are more expensive ways/higher quality parts and cables (ie Framemeister). But I'm 100% satisfied with my setup, no noticeable lag and high quality video. (Granted my Genesis has modded video and audio encoding chips)

Genesis, Saturn, Dreamcast, Snes, Ps1, Ps2 all are capable of RGB Scart right out of the box. N64 can do RGB Scart after a mod (basically a requirement if you want to play N64 on a 4k screen). NES also needs a mod for RGB but I still use the standard A/V output on my toaster model because I think my TVs built-in upscaler does a fine job handling 8bit.



https://console5.com/store/sega-genesis-2-3-cdx-nomad-rgb-scart-cable.html


https://www.amazon.com/CKITZE-BG-460-System-Digital-Converter/dp/B00988GMLG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2XOJEDM0L7WP1&keywords=scart+to+hdmi+converter&qid=1554132863&s=gateway&sprefix=scart+%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-3

It is possible with the right converter. I found an active converter on amazon that should work for you, except you will need to pair it with a cheap HDMI>DVI adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Convertor-support-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6

You could use a USB S-Video capture device. Plug your video out from the camcorder into the device and use the included software to create video files. Lots of models available - make sure to check out reviews.

Alternatively, you may find that quite a few places that still offer film development services for stills cameras will also have a Hi-8 to DVD service too.

I figured I'd need an HDMI splitter because Sony is a piece of crap like that. And I'm still torn on what capture card to get. I could get a Roxio Game Capture HD PRO for $100 on Amazon.
Does it seem like it'd be okay? I mean, there are about the same amount of 5 star and 1 star reviews, so I don't know how to evaluate that.
http://www.amazon.com/Roxio-Game-Capture-HD-PRO/dp/B008YTAGGW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411781072&sr=8-2&keywords=capture+card
... Hi Ramune :D

Thank you! I do have Prime Now and found this

https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B006FILNV6?m=A2PF8A4AASD08R&qid=1478460196&sr=1-5&ref_=pn_sr_sg_5_img_A2PF8A4AASD08R

It says VGA to HDMI. Would it work both ways? Or would the HDMI be output only on that?

It’s been a while since I booted up my PS4, but I believe it only allows output to a single device at once. I would suggest not using headphones on the controller. If you’re not using the mic on the headset, you can use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Passthrough-JTD18G-H5CH/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=J-Tech+Digital+4K+60HZ+HDMI+Audio+Extractor+Converter&qid=1565959889&s=gateway&sr=8-3

This is what I use for mine, but I don’t use any kind of team chat on the PS4. This allows me to hear all audio from the PS4 without the lag associated with listening to the audio from the OBS stream.

Not sure what you would use if you need the mic

Check this out:


http://www.amazon.com/Roxio-Game-Capture-HD-PRO/dp/B008YTAGGW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376022359&sr=8-3&keywords=game+capture


The reviews look good.

If your TV has component video inputs then you can buy a converter and connect the stick to that.

If your TV has other HDMI ports that are in use, then an HDMI switcher may be useful.

You should look into an Audio Extractor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDNJ6RM?psc=1

Basically a pass through that pulls audio into RCA and optical. You could then just use RCA to 3.5 of whichever works for you! Hope this helps.

My friends monitor doesn't have audio out, I set him up with this. Works perfectly.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ECTHIKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1416930292&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

The Saturn will work with your HDTV out of the box as long as it has input for composite (standard yellow/white/red cable). If you want a better picture, you're in luck since the Saturn doesn't require any hardware mods to output in RGB.

You can get a RGB SCART cable and you'll need a converter box if you live outside Europe.

Then there's the Framemeister, but the price of admission goes up dramatically.

No. But if you throw one of these in between the two, you should be OK.

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM

Edit: Make sure your Chromecast is powered by its own power supply, not the projector (USB/MHL)

I'm planning on getting that "HD Video Converter" that people seem to have luck with.

I can't make myself get the expensive Framemeister.

This :)

You could get one of these dealies. Plug a PS2 component cable in the front, an HDMI cable in the back, and you should be good to go.

Just make sure that the hdmi to component adapter has selectable resolutions.

The chromecast doesn't have any way to select output resolutions and will just switch the the highest resolution the adapter can handle, which will be 1080p.


I know from experence that this one worked on my dad's pre-hdmi 720p/1080i projector set.

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Premium-Quality-Component-Converter/dp/B017LVMAWG/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1474633145&sr=8-12&keywords=hdmi+to+component

I know for a fact from trying these will NOT work on a tv that can't handle 1080p over component.

https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETHR-Component-Converter-%C2%A0Windows%C2%A010/dp/B00A8FIQXA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474633261&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi+to+component

https://www.amazon.com/LESHP-Component-YPbPr-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01E50T2FE/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1474633261&sr=8-11&keywords=hdmi+to+component

http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-SPDIF-Audio-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00ECTHIKK


Edit: Wait, how are you connecting your monitor? If you're using VGA, there are even easier cables to use.

You have to go fiber :/ that or an active coupler like this one

You're going to need an HDCP compliant powered converter if you want to go from HDMI to VGA. Something like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O55U8K
OR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/

I recently Purchased this:

AGPtek® HDMI to HDMI + SPDIF + RCA L / R Audio Extractor Converter (HDMI input,HDMI+ Audio output)
by AGPtEK
Link: http://amzn.com/B00ECTHIKK

It has worked well but the volume out is a bit low and the AMP I had powering my whole house audio system was at its limits already. Just "cranking it up" to compensate has caused it to overheat too often.

I just bought one of these AMPs to see if it works out better. Also the Audiosource AMP is supposed to power up when it receives signal, I will also see if this works with the Chromecast + Audio Extractor.

AudioSource Power Amplifier Link: http://amzn.com/B00026BQJ6

SYBA Universal VGA to HDMI Converter with Audio Support, Adapter for PC, Laptop, DVD, Desktop, SY-ADA31025 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FILNV6



Then you just need an HDMI cable.

Yes:

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Premium-Quality-Component-Converter/dp/B017LVMAWG/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505872462&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=hdmi+to+compent+optical

Yes, the composite to HDMI cable is typically a third of the price. Here is a link to a cheap one.

What about something like this
StarTech.com DisplayPort Signal Booster - DP Video Signal Amplifier - 4K 60Hz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IE3IAIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H9D0Cb5QA378B

With a long normal dp cable?

Not cheap but i assume its a solid option.

It seems the popular and easy TV fix is the Sony Trinitron Wega.
For scart I think going from that to a component would worsen the signal, but I'd like heads up on that too. You could try a scart to hdmi converter, I've heard good things about this one and plan on trying it with my Saturn and Dreamcast sometime soon.
I tried hooking my Dreamcast up to my 40" via VGA. Didn't look too great, I'm assuming worse for SNES.

Does your monitor have an audio out by any chance? I don't know how likely it is since it doesn't have speakers, but it's worth checking. If it does, you could just run a cable from your monitor to your speakers.

If not, your best best is to get an HDMI audio splitter like this one.

I'm testing out a splitter to CRT and AV2HDMI to LGP setup. It looks a little weird to me, but it's smooth as fuck. (Because 60fps) The only issue is that the card I used here I already use for capturing Smash 4 VODs. So if I want to capture VODs for both PM and Smash 4 at an event, I would need two of 'em.

Here, have some test footage.

And another one.

And this can be done without a PC which is super convenient.

I bought one of these off of amazon (I figured for $11 it was worth a shot) and it works with my 55 inch Vizio 4K tv: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01H3KTZUK

You need this:

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTD-0801-Multi-Functional-Converter/dp/B008VWGLXO


Or this if you can get by with just component:

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-JTD-VGA-COMTOHDMI-Video-YPbPr/dp/B00L3NJJLO


I have several J-Tech converters and they work great.


I'd upgrade to a receiver personally, but there are converters.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "t"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

Try something like this.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-Video-Converter-Screen-Version/dp/B003NUN7DG

In that case, there is something like this...

http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Portable-Converter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6

or

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Audio-1080p-Converter-Adapter/dp/B009L4X3ZA

or

http://www.amazon.com/New-Wayzon-Compact-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00K3OP77Y

You can do this using video capture cards and devices. An example scenario is PiP with the HTPC and a PS4 game console.

Standalone capture devices like this Roxio support PiP as do Avermedia cards.

Use something like an HDMI audio separator.

I think getting something like this would work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECTHIKK/ref=pe_385040_30332210_TE_dp_1

You need something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Analog-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00FCYKO8W#immersive-view_1467167442670

Hope this helped.

You could get something like this, https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Analog-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B00FCYKO8W

Because you'd be converting Digital (HDMI) to analog (Component), you'd need a Digital to Analog converter. The TV won't have this capability built in.

You should pick up something like this to make it work.

Maybe, try something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/TOTMC-Capture-Adapter-Windows-Window/dp/B00M7T8T1E

To hook a Raspberry Pi 4 system up to a CRT (for retro gaming obviously), is it as simple as getting an HDMI to Component converter like this?

Your SNES has RCA outputs. Yellow=Video RED=Right Audio Channel and White=Left Audio Channel. You need something like this: AV to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Aud... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H3KTZUK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_NT5Fzb77MFWVB. If you have the Multi Output cable, connect the RCA outputs to this box and the HDMI cable from the box to the TV.

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM

I think you will need a HDMI audio splitter like that. PS4 HDMI -> splitter HDMI in, splitter HDMI out -> TV, splitter RCA audio -> PC line-in.

PC Line-Out into the mixer. Get an HDMI audio/video splitter that let's you split the two. Take that sound out into the mixer.

edit: Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501006051&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+audio%2Fvideo+splitter

A box to pull audio out of the HDMI like this, audio from that goes into your machine as a mic input and tell Windows to "Listen to this device" in the Input Device settings.

The Roku Ultra 2016 edition (model 4640) is the last one they made with optical audio port.

https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Ultra-Streaming-Player-Enhanced/dp/B01M05030B

You could also use a hdmi audio splitter thingy like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/

I used to use something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM) that will split the HDMI video and audio out. HDMI can continue to the projector for video and then you have audio out you can plug into any speakers.

I bet the issue is the TV
Try skipping the TV altogether then it comes to audio and get the audio directly from your source
Get this or something similar J-Tech Digital 4K 60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output Supports HDMI 2.0, 18Gpbs Bandwidth, HDCP 2.2, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 [JTD18G-H5CH] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CrFRDbYG2MVSAc

I'm trying this one right now, not really doing anything for now:
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Signal-Booster-Video-Amplifier/dp/B01IE3IAIS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=startech+displayport+repeater&qid=1558794631&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I need 5m as well

Headphones? https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/144410/can-i-use-my-regular-3-5mm-headphones-with-a-ps4

That's one option. Of course, that means that you could also connect external speakers to the same jack.

You could purchase an HDMI audio splitter/extractor. https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536435271&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter&psc=1
... since that is what you want to do. You want to extract the audio from the HDMI cable, and redirect it to a set of speakers.

Otherwise, since that monitor is not made in any way to provide audio support (there is no audio extractor in the monitor to separate the audio from the video in the HDMI), this is really all you have for options. Namely, using the audio out port on the controller, or purchasing an extractor and connecting your speakers to it.

I'm using this: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-Component-Converter-Scaler-support/dp/B00JVNUAEI

There's a few options out there though. Whichever you choose just make sure it inputs and outputs 480i. Some only do 480p, some accept 480i but don't output it.

I was looking at that. I honestly have no clue how to set it up, so let me know if this is how it works.



PS4 connected to HDMI Audio Extractor w/ HDMI

HDMI Audio Extractor connected to TV w/ HDMI

Then I just plug the optical in to it, and it works normal?

Also, Would this one work?

https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497019912&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hdmi%2Baudio%2Bextractor&th=1

That should work. Looks like this would do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6

That converter should work fine. I use an S-video to VGA converter I dont have any lag. http://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-Video-Converter-Screen-Version/dp/B003NUN7DG

http://www.amazon.com/Unknown-HDMI-VGACONVERTER-Audio-HDMI-Converter/dp/B0015YWV1G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8

I have used this model. It works, picture is ok. TVs are generally not as high resolution as your pc, especially if they don't have a VGA input.

Edit: this model does audio too. Not all of them do, so watch for that when looking for transcoders.

Yeah it does, You'd have to look for a RCA to HDMI converter box, Like this one.

your receiver appears to only have analog inputs. Which Xbox do you have? Assuming, its a "One" I don't believe it has any analog outs. So you'd either have to use the TV analog audio out (LIKE THIS if it had one) or convert the xbox audio

• TV Audio: If your TV has an analog audio out (red and white RCA port, similar to whats on the back of your receiver), hook Xbox to TV via HDMI then run the RCA cable from the TV to the receiver. (your receiver does have a Digital in, it's possible your TV would have a digital out port, though I've never seen that, you would hook that up the same way. Digital coax cable from output of TV to input of receiver). You may need to enable "audio out" in the TV settings.
  
• Convert: If you wanted to stay digital, you could convert the Optical (SPIDF / TOSLINK) out of the XBOX to the Digital (DIGITAL COAXIAL) in of the receiver with something LIKE THIS - You would also need digital coax and optical cables. Staying digital might play better with some surround sound formats and - depending on the quality of that converter, your ears and your speakers - will technically be cleaner sounding than RCA. Or you can purchase an optical to RCA converter (LIKE THIS) - which converts to analog sound, you will also need optical and rca cables. Or an HDMI to RCA converter (LIKE THIS) you will also need RCA and HDMI cables. Or an HDMI to digital converter (LIKE THIS) - you will also need HDMI and optical / digital coax cables.
  
  If converting, I would avoid the HDMI route, as HDMI can be fickle and "error out" when run through "cheap" adapters, especially if you are using 4k.

You should be able to run your dreamcast through hdmi with better graphics for 60 bucks, you simply need these three things...

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-1080p-HDMI-Scaling-Converter/dp/B008COJXHC/ref=pd_cp_e_0
http://www.amazon.com/Tomee-Sega-VGA-Cable-Sound-Adapter/dp/B00HPU96FI
And then a tiny audio adapter in order to connect the cables and have the audio go through hdmi, http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Male-RCA-Female-Discontinued/dp/B0018MI5F6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1406852313&sr=1-3&keywords=red+white+audio+to+3.5mm

The Etekcity can do 720p but for some reason 1080 does not work. I first bought a Panlong, it did not work for me. The picture would show in 720 and 1080 but it scrolls diagonally and could not be fixed. I then bought the Etekcity, and although it only works in 720 it still looks ridiculously nicer than standard. I assumed it would barely be noticeable but it is a lot, though if you never played dreamcast the standard way it might not seem all that big of a deal.

Its side inputs are still in the back of the TV. "Great design"

I did find this but I don't know how well it works.

I had the same issue with my 60" 4K tv. The resolution was too low for the tv to display. I purchased a composite to HDMI up converter so that the N64 could output a 1080i signal now it works great with no issue
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G6R3VEM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482295458&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=composite+to+hdmi&dpPl=1&dpID=41hnkw2xgNL&ref=plSrch

I am playing them on the ultrawide and using this to output the sound to the SPDIF input on the usb sound card

Its a device that plugs into your computer and can record footage from an array of devices. I used a cheap one off amazon to record some old VHS. If your using windows I used this http://www.amazon.com/TOTMC-Capture-Adapter-Windows-Window/dp/B00M7T8T1E/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41nza0fnobL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=036K537EGJGZXZPEJXE9

Not really. Most VGA cables are male at both ends, and the input and output devices have female connectors. Since the cable is male at both ends, most converters (such as [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETVHT-stereo-Converter-Windows-10/dp/B0015YWV1G)) will have a female connector since the device sits between the VGA and HDMI cables, rather than connecting directly to a device on either end point.

The real issue is whether the internal circuitry in the adapter is capable of converting the analog VGA signal to the digital HDMI signal or vice versa. Most only go one direction, and you can't really tell by the ports on the device alone.

That's not so insane:

You're just using a computer sound card as a mixer for the audio from another computer.

*shrug*

There's other related answers that might solve some of your problems with this arrangement. Stuff like: https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/

It's an EtekCity VGA to HDMI converter. Can't really find a "model" number.

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Scaler-Converter-Adapter-Laptop/dp/B008COJXHC

TV is a Toshiba Model 50L2300U

Will that also downscale 480p through VGA?

Because (I'm not sure about lag or impact on quality yet, sorry), you could always use a SVideo to VGA converter. Since it's analog to analog, it shouldn't be horrific, but I don't know from experience.

www.amazon.com/dp/B001VLO5BC

www.amazon.com/dp/B003NUN7DG/

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-Support/dp/B074HHSJVN

That is the closest you can get. It can pass Dolby Digital or DTS from the HDMI chain to S/PDIF, but it can't convert other formats to the more basics one. Essentially it only decodes, not encodes.

https://www.amazon.com/Luzan-Digital-Decoder-Converter-Optical/dp/B01MS0973G

This might be closer to what you want, it takes a DTS, Dolby Digital, or PCM signal and gives you 5.1 analogue pre-outs.

You could simply buy a used receiver with HDMI that could handle this task for you. It would cost the same as either of these devices.

These aren't a real thing. VGA doesn't support those standards by default; unless you have a specially modified VGA port it won't work. You can get dongles that convert video from VGA to composite and vice versa, but they're more finicky and expensive. Like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-Video-Converter-Screen-Version/dp/B003NUN7DG

It kinda sucks but it works.

tahdah

This one will do audio for you , too.

Is this what you're looking for?