> My husband and I are closing on our first home next month (yay!) and we know one of the first things to do is change the locks. A smartlock is very appealing but I'm having trouble deciding which one is best for us, because it seems the more I research the less certain I am. I also have a couple questions.

Ah, the perks of home ownership: feeling optimistic and creative, with a blank canvas in front of you. I envy you both!
Let me tell you why you should be considering the August Smart Lock brand of locks. I will post a small blurb on my contextual background and specific situation (which I posted elsewhere), then briefly mention the possible choices you have, and then respond to your list of requirements and setup,

 

 

PART I: CONTEXT

I am a renter; so obviously a lot of what I have to say may seem irrelevant. Seeing as I do not have a lot of creative control over the property, this would make smart locks tricky business. However, my landlord gave me permissions to replace the entire deadbolt, if I wanted. So, the first set of requirements were drafted as:

MUSTS:

• We have a dog that requires a dog walker to enter our house multiple times a week. The lock must allow this situation in as safe a manner as possible.
  
  
• We do not want to have to make copies of keys
  
  
• We do not want the dog walker (or any visitor) to HAVE TO download an app to get into the property
  
  WANTS:
  
  
• Smart home integrate-able
  
  
• Reliable and well rated
  
  
• Cheap
  
  
• Connect to it remotely to lock/unlock and monitor
  
  
• Z-Wave compatible (came later, when I realized I wanted to have a smart home integration environment)
  
  So, my research began, in earnest. It consumed me. Off the bat, the first names to pop up were August, Kwikset, Schlage and Yale.
  Of those, three had keypad options, which became a requirement soon after. Despite the perks of the Kwikset Kevo (the touch to open), I removed it from the list.
  Also, despite the fiance having an iPhone, I had an Android, so the lock had to have equal footing mobile phone ecosystem-independent. That removed things like Schlage Sense and other Homekit-only options.
  
  The final list:
  
  
• August
  
  
• Yale YRD226 (A really good Yale lock choosing guide here)
  
  
• Schlage Connect
  
  I did a ton of cross referencing, reviews websites, pros and cons, etc etc. And CONSISTENTLY, the August locks were ranked #1/#2/#3. I won't go into too much more detail on what those websites and reviews indicated, I trust you guys can do that research.
  
  But, in the end, the August locks were exactly what we needed, AND more. They were going to be the easiest to set up, and the best out of the gate. So we went with them, and haven't looked back since. My fiance, a "smart-home-always-listening" skeptic, casually told me yesterday how awesome she finds the smart lock.
  
   
  
   
  
  

  PART II: THE LINEUP
  

  
  So, what options to choose from?
  
  

• The August Smart Lock Pro (August | Amazon)
  
  Pros: Most up to date, improved tech under the hood, Z-Wave Plus compatible, Door Sense, most smart home integrations available, Auto lock/unlock
  
  Cons: Most expensive
  
  
• The August Smart Lock 3rd Generation (August | Amazon)
  
  Pros: Improved tech under the hood from the previous generation, Door Sense, Auto lock/unlock, traditional form factor, Cheaper
  
  Cons: No useful smart home integrations (missing homekit, alexa/echo, google home, z wave)
  
  To compare the above two, go here: http://august.com/keyless-entry/
  
  
• The August Smart Lock 2nd Generation (Amazon)
  
  Pros: Most cost effective ($125, but last week it was $109!) but still ranked #1 on MANY reputable websites (CNET | PCMag | etc), has built-in HomeKit capability, can be enhanced with additional devices
  
  Cons: Least impressive underlying tech, no Door Sense capability, no effective smart home integrations
  
   
  
  "Door Sense": The ability to detect "Door open" / "Door Closed" situation.
  
   
  
  An Aside : Enhancement Products
  
  
• The August Smart Keypad (August|Amazon)
  
  This keypad adds in the functionality that you'd expect:
  
  -- keyless code entry for guests (unlimited codes, managed via the app)
  
  -- Lock it with a button press
  
  -- Attachable for preferred outside entry
  
   
  
  
• The August Connect Wifi Bridge (August|Amazon)
  
  This device enables you to link your otherwise-bluetooth-range-only smart lock to your wifi, effectively allowing you to connect and manage the smart lock from ANYWHERE that you have network connectivity. With it, you can:
  
  -- Remotely lock/unlock your door
  
  -- Receive alerts on any actions taken on your door remotely
  
  -- have faster access to your lock as your app selects the best connection to use
  
   
  
  

  PART 2.5: BUNDLES/SALE
  

  
  Consider price-watching for sales; I saw the 2nd gen for, like $109...
  Personally, I jumped when the Smart Lock Pro + Wifi bridge bundle went on sale for $229 (same price as the lock itself), and the keypad was $55, on Amazon.
  
  

• August Smart Lock Pro + Connect Wifi: AMAZON $249 | AUGUST $249
  
  
• Sale price - August Smart lock 2nd Gen HomeKit: AMAZON $125 !!
  
  
• August Smart Lock 3rd Generation + Connect Wifi: AUGUST $199
  
   
  
   
  
  PART III : Why the August Locks work for your situation (below)

I have recently gone down the road of automating my home. Here are some of my thoughts:

1. Try not to lock yourself into an eco-system.
   
2. Google Home and Amazon Echo have similar capabilities, if you already have an Amazon, echo and if you like it go with more Alexa devices. As /u/TwiceBakedTomato already mentioned, Google Home or Amazon Alexa are only going to be voice-control part of your home automation. Also, if you already have a pixel phone, you can check out google's home skills, by using the google assistant.
   
3. Do not overlook Zwave. You can get a USB Zwave hub like this, and you won't have a bunch of bulbs and switches crowding your wifi network.
   
4. Check out Home Assistant. It is not really a works out-of-the-box solution (I can't speak for hass.io), but it is not hard to setup and has a lot of resources online. The possibilities with it are quite endless. The kind of automations you can have are only limited by the inputs/components you have configured and your imagination :)
   You can check all the components Home Assistant supports here. I have it configured with my TP-Link bulbs, switches, LIFX Bulbs, ZWave sensors, Zwave switches, Schalge Smart Lock, Roomba, NAS, Nest Cameras, Thermostat, etc...
   
5. For the doorbell, I would suggest going with the Nest Doorbell, Keep in mind there is an extra $50/yr (or $30/yr for each extra Nest cam) for Nest to save 24x7 video feed. It has however performed better than my older Ring doorbell which kept failing. Make sure your apartment doorbell is wired.
   
6. If you are getting more cameras, there are 2 options, going for a solution like Nest or Arlo, where the video feed storage, notification, etc is all handled by an external company; or getting cheaper IP/ONVIF Cameras and using your own surveillance/storage solution. I personally have a mix of both. I have a few nest cameras and a few cheaper IP cameras that record to my NAS. This gives me the peace of mind that in case someone breaks into my home and steals my NAS as well, I can still depend on Nest to have the break-in recorded and stored on their servers. I can also see the feed from all my cameras in a single place in Home Assistant.
   
   
   Miscellaneous thoughts:
   
   
7. Replacing wall switches are really easy, so don't restrict yourself to using only smart plugs. Just keep the older switches and put them back when you're moving out of your rental. (Obviously take appropriate safety precautions when working with live electric wires). They are also better when you have a multi-bulb lamp (like a chandelier), instead of getting 3-5 smart bulbs to make the chandelier smart, you can just get a single smart-switch which controls it.
   
8. Look into a smart lock, they are easy to install and are great! I currently have this one.
   
9. You can setup Home Assistant in something as small as a raspberry pi. Or if you have a older laptop lying around you can easily install Home Assistant, an MQTT server, Grafana, etc on docker containers on the same system
   
10. If you like DIY stuff, instead of getting a $35-$60 multi sensor like this, you can easily put together one with a ESP8266 and sensors which would cost about $8-$10 in total.
    
11. Make sure you set a budget. It's very easy to start buying stuff and a lot of approx. $30 stuff will add up quickly :)
    
    Hope this wall of text helps you. Happy Automating!
    
    e: spelling

You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.

Smart things

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4

Hubitat

https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4

If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.

Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.


GE Z wave light switch & Extender

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.

​

You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.


Z Wave Door Sensor


https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4


Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!


Abode Security System

https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5


​

For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!

I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.


Kasa Light Bulbs LB110

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5

Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.

I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version


HASSIO

https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/

That sucks. Here's some suggestions on protecting your home in the future.

Visit /r/homedefense but it may be a bit over the top.

You can get a sliding door lock like this which is very effective.

There are a large number of smart devices that don't cost a ton, are easy to install, and offer great feature. For example, I have several of these guys around my house. They connect to your wifi and then your phone. You get real-time alerts. You can also daisy-chain them with other IFTTT devices. For example, when the door opens, a light can turn on, etc.

While expensive, the Nest cams are super easy to set up and work great.

GeoArm security company offers great monitoring options if you have or get an alarm.

Change the locks but research them - some are trivial to get through!

For all outdoor entries, removed, drill out, and replace the screws holding the strike plates with 3" - 5" long screws that go into the studs. This will make it significantly harder to break into a door.

Get a fake tv device which makes it look like someone is home.

Plant roses outside / under all windows. The bigger the better.

Motion activated lights are great, just mount them out of reach and install LED bulbs (regular bulbs fail quickly due to heat/cold).

Even without an alarm, buy legitimate company signs like these Brinks ones (or find ADT ones) that says you have an alarm. I've heard unconfirmed data that this lessens break ins.

There are a large number of small glass break alarms like these that can be installed.

You can also get movement based alarms like these.

I don't endorse any of them, those are just what came up first in my searches.

Hope that helps.

As I'm sure you guessed, this lock is quite old. I believe it would be considered a rim lock as it mounts to the face of the door rather than being bored into the edge of the door. You may be able to find some markings on it but even then it might not be too helpful, the company could be out of business for a long long time by now. Even if they're still around its doubtful they would be any help as Im sure they stopped supporting this hardware long ago.

The good news is that since its for an interior door there is a pretty good chance it uses one of a couple of keys which are easily and cheaply available. I would try these, its worth the gamble of a few bucks. If they work one lock in your house they probably work all the others too (assuming the other locks are in working order of course). http://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I

You are correct about the spring, it appears to me to be missing. The spring sits in the slot you were describing. That piece is the lever (you have a lever tumbler lock) and the spring is anchored in that slot, wraps around the rounded part and is held in place by the inside of the case. Something like this.

https://imgur.com/23p1wYg

A local locksmith should be able to make you a spring like this pretty cheaply, assuming they work on old stuff, a lot don't these days. I would call up a shop and tell them you have an antique lock that uses a bit key that you need a spring made for and see what they say. You can probably pick up the keys for them as well.

Short version- it's probably cheaper to buy a 2nd robot vacuum, unless you go total DIY route.

Medium version- Unless the hallway is an outside hallway (IE one of the hallway walls is on the outside of the house) you probably aren't wasting any money heating it. If the hallway is surrounded by heated rooms, then the hallway itself won't bleed much heat except maybe through the ceiling and that's probably to another apartment.

Long version: Locking and unlocking doors is fairly easy. Unlatching doors is a bit harder- motorized doorknobs aren't really a common thing so you'd need an electric security strike plate. That would probably require cutting out a lot of the door frame to mount it. Then you have the issue of actually opening and closing the door. It has to open and close with enough force that it pushes the latch through the strike plate, but also should have some safety mechanism so it can't cause any harm to a human or pet. That's one reason why automatic door openers (like you see at the supermarket) are quite expensive- you need a powerful motor but you also need a bunch of sensors to stop the motor before it does any damage. Those things are quite expensive and require custom mounting. They're also fugly- this is the smallest most attractive one I could find and it's $530. You could use something more like an automatic gate opener but that's still $289.

If you were to do this, the DIY route is probably the way to go. The strike plate is easy enough, you can get that on Amazon for $23. That just needs 12vdc to unlock it. The opener is the harder part. You'd probably want something like a long stroke linear actuator. Alternatively you could make something using some gears and stuff- there are a few ways to do that.

But when you put all this together, you are still spending a good amount of money. Even if it's just $100 (which I'd put as the absolute bare minimum for this) how long will it take you to realize $100 worth of energy savings vs just leaving the hallway doors open?

Seriously, not a bad mom; you were supposed to be safe, in your own home, you were sleeping. People don't necessarily sense things are wrong and that doesn't make you a bad mother, fuck her with a goddamned soldering iron.

Also, that cop is gr8, holy fuck.

More importantly, if you have a new location you may want to be sure to have some kind of motion sensor that will trip and set off alarms loud enough to wake at least one of you if she sets foot on the property. Have you considered potentially getting a dog trained to at least start barking if someone gets close, if not?

I mean based I'm the fire incident alone I'd be fucking terrified of her doing something whole you slept, again, and a woman willing to burn her grandchildren and their mother alive for calling the cops her pedophilic piece of shit son is not a woman who's gonna think oh no, they have an RO/TO against me I can't get close!! You know? I'd consider getting a weapon, and check state laws. If you're not comfortable with a gun you can get things like pepper spray or a taser, also a security system.

Another way to hopefully at least make breaking in hard in the event she somehow got ahold of a house key is to get a key cover like this, if you're worried. Just an extra layer of security if you need it, made of diecast. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BOZBDK6/ref=asc_df_B00BOZBDK65193055/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00BOZBDK6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198055620944&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17223530890610205033&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014737&hvtargid=pla-319675819603#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1506742212278

That url cover gore tho. Anyway, yes, I just thought I'd throw these out there, but I'm sure you have covered all of your bases three times by now. But it never hurts to put safety suggestions out there I figure, better safe than sorry. I hope things go smoothly for you and your family, and that you all stay safe.

I went with this, I think it is the most expensive but I thought it was the nicest looking.

http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Century-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KJQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1458751644&sr=1-4&keywords=schlage+keyless+lock

The others all get good review though so its all about picking what you like the look of most. But FYI none of those locks you posted are Z-Wave compatible so they can't talk to Wink or any other Hub.

It is nice having the connectivity because you can lock and unlock doors from your smartphone and even set robots (automated tasks in the wink app) to for example, make sure all your doors are locked after 11pm.

Awesome! I would love to see some pics after you build it! I also recommend these for the frame, made it super easy and solid as a rock! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003F0DZZ4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an [august lock](August Smart Lock 2nd Generation – Silver, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXO3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zNQKzbV5KTA0J), couldn't be happier after install hardware is simple enough to install although my one gripe is that i wish the motor was a tad stronger for those old/sticky locks but nothing a $40 lock or WD cant fix. The [august iOS app](August Home by August Home, Inc.
https://appsto.re/us/GFTQM.i) support is top notch with updates coming once a 1-2/mo. If have the $$ you can take it a step further and get an [august wifi bridge](August Connect Wi-Fi Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FQQKzbANTWP42) to allow for lock/unlock outside of home network.

Something like this sliding plate wall mount (but smaller) would work really well.

Then you could use command strips to attach the mounting bracket to the wall in both rooms and easily slide the station on in either of the two locations.

I can't find anything similar but smaller unfortunately.

Edit 1: This type of faster is called a 'keyhole hanger'. I haven't found quite the perfect thing, but I'll keep an eye out.

Edit 2: One of these or these might do the trick. You'd have to mount on the side of the base station, but it'd be pretty secure and easily swap-able!

Edit 3: Ahah! These seem about as close as it's going to get.

>I hate guns

This is a response that a lot of people have who didn't grow up around guns. However, don't let that emotional response affect your safety. If you're open minded in having the best self defense tool available, go take a gun safety course. Preferably one that includes live fire after classroom instruction. This will demystify firearms, which for most people, removes the fear of them. After this, you should still have a healthy respect for them and what they can do. To keep them inaccessible to your children, get a quick access safe.

Whether or not you get a gun, here's some other things you can do:

• Door Jamb reinforcement kit. These cost between $8 and $70 depending on how heavy duty you want to go, but they will make your door many times stronger than it is currently. Here's a basic one: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-10385-Strike-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/ - this comes with 3 inch screws to anchor into your studs behind your door frame.
  
• Replace hinge screws with 3 inch screws. If you have the door jamb reinforcement kit, you should do this too to take care of the hinges which may still be vulnerable to kick ins.
  
• Additional door security: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-11126-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00QR2QCJI - these will make it harder to break in while you're home.
  
• Additional door security: https://www.amazon.com/South-Main-Hardware-810185-Adjustable/dp/B0742TN5X6 - another thing to keep your door closed.
  
• If you have a window near your door that could be broken to unlock the door, consider window security film, which will make it harder to break.
  
• Get a monitored alarm system. Either professional install (ADT, etc.) or one that you install yourself (SimpliSafe, Abode, Scout, etc.). Typically the ones you install yourself do not come with contracts, but you have to buy the equipment up front.
  
• Security cameras can get expensive, and they can't stop a crime in progress, although they may be a deterrent if a would-be burglar sees them. I would skip this until your budget increases. The money you would have spent on that will go further with the other suggestions mentioned.
  
• That being said, a doorbell camera (Ring, Skybell) can be a great tool for when you're not home. Some burglars will knock or ring the doorbell to determine if the house is empty (they would rather break into an empty house). If you have a doorbell camera, you can respond to them when they knock or ring, making them think that you are actually home which is likely to make them leave.

Viewers I'm about to change your life.

​

There's a strong STRONG likelihood that the key to that particular nuisance box is a CH751.

​

Get beyond ballpoint pens and improvised levers- with a CH751 you can have that box open at your beck and call.

​

And did I mention it works on more than just office HVAC cages? Here is a small list of equipment that was also fitted (and thus, opened) with a CH751:

​

​

* Air conditioner units

* Liquor cabinet

* Most RVs

* Desks

* Gas Pumps

* Soda Fountain

* And a bunch of other shit!

​

​

And I'm sure you're wondering how much such a key could cost. I'm sure if it can open so many things it must be expensive. That's the best part- you can get a set of 10 keys, enough for you, your spouse, your work friend, your boss, your baby mama, your dog, that cool guy from the office next door, the intern, your weed guy, and his weed guy, for LESS THAN $8.

​

​

[Worth it for the Toilet Paper convenience alone. ](https://www.amazon.com/Southco-CH751-Campers-Cabinets-Locks/dp/B001562UII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ch751&qid=1561386162&s=gateway&sr=8-1)

1.) I'm not 100% sure on the answer, but if you want one key for one house, you'll need one brand of locks. Then you can always look up a pin kit for that brand. I just don't know to what extent brands are compatible in terms of pins.

2.) You'll need tweezers, a large paperclip, like big and strong (helps you pop open door knobs), a cylinder remover (pops off the retaining ring), and a plug tool for holding the springs in place when you change out the pins.

3.) Operate slowly and read the directions. It's hard to know what to expect when you do it the first time, so they'll probably pop. When this happens, use the plug tool. Put it in so that it covers up 3 pins. With the 2 exposed pin, pop in the spring of the pin adjacent to the plug. Pop the pin on top. It helps to kind of wedge the plug against the pin as you set it into place. Then slide the plug over the pin. Repeat for the next hole. Now, slide the plug all the way through the lock so that only the two pins you placed in there are covered. Repeat procedure for remaining 3 pins. Now pop the cylinder back in and pray you never have to do this again.

https://smile.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-2400-Kwikset-Tumbler/dp/B003VP1QIG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473381526&sr=8-6&keywords=rekey+tool

This kit has everything you need, but only does a few locks.

Contact the police.

I believe those are sign of attempted or successful forced entry with a pry bar. There is a small paint nick on what I assume is part of the door handle plate, where someone may have attempted to insert a pry bar, but the space between the door frame and lock plate was too narrow to insert the pry bar directly next to the door handle. The paint scratches bellow look like a person tried to knock a pry bar between the door and door frame, with the intent on sliding the pry bar up to the latch/lock point, but the space between the door and door frame was too narrow to slide the pry bar up to the door latch/lock. Multiple pry bars may have been attempted to be used at once. pry the door open a little, and put the next pry bar closer to the lock, and repeat the process until the pry bar is next to the door latch.

Then, with some less secure doors, the door's small 2 inch by 3 inch strike plate is secured with two 1" wood screws secured by 1 inch of 2x4, which is very easy to split and break with little effort. You seem to have an exterior metal security door that is pre-mounted to a full metal door frame that deters attempted burglary.

This is the mandatory part for other people reading this, whom have a wood framed entry door.

Reinforce your door frame with a larger strike plate!

Even if your door is solid wood, and there are no windows within 5 ft of the door, also replace the standard door hinges with security stud hinges which will prevent the door from being pushed off after removing the hing pin while the door is closed.

Use a raised lip threshold plate with a metal lip, not rubber or wood or plastic. This is to prevent a burglar from inserting a long wire hangar under the door gap, and catching the door latch.

Use this lock in a specific way. If you have a door handle on the inside like a handle lever attach the part with the ball on the end above the door handle touching near the end of the handle. This way the door handle cant be activated by catching a looped string dropped from above the door, and pulling the handle up. If the interior door handle is a round knob, attach the ball ended part of this touching the bottom of the door knob, and the swinging part of this above the knob so it drops onto the knob. This will make using a rubber tube to turn the knob from the outside much more difficult and time consuming.

Nothing is 100% secure. But time, effort, luck, and noise required to bypass a security lock system can deter a criminal. Also motion lighting. Lots of motion lighting.

First of all, you're completely in the right. You are offering shelter to your friend, with stipulations such as not going into your private bedroom, and your friend agreed to the terms. If the rugrat isn't under control that's not your problem.

Second, you might want to look at a door knob lock like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BOZBDK6/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7A41VTRX79TZ8NWVEX5F), which goes over the doorknob already there. Or a child proofing lock like the one [here] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BWSJXAG?aaxitk=WZHCF3gwTkd.gev5Zmj-JA).

I would tell your friend to pay for one of those if she has a problem.

I've had something like this happen, when my son was the same age. :) My mom had come out to visit, so we were shooting the breeze. I went to the bathroom and she went to fold laundry, and my son disappeared.

Enter Mom and Grandma in panic mode. We looked outside, we checked the cabinets, and all the rooms, and he wasn't anywhere.

Just as I was about to call the cops, my mom suggests the garage. "But he can't even reach the door knob!" I said. Well, I was wrong. He was happily playing in the garage, giggling the whole time. I cried and laughed, and started locking that door (with one of these since they were 5 feet up). :)

I think this happens to everyone at least once. :)

This is a great solution. I did the same thing when I bought my new home. Paranoid at the core (aren't we all?), I didn't want anyone else being involved in the process. I bought a Schlage kit at Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00002N768) for $70 and then spent an hour changing 3 locks.

The tricky part was getting a new key to set the locks to. You can buy keys from Amazon, eBay, etc., but the last thing I wanted was a record of a new key being sent to a specific address. I had heard that Home Depot and Lowes had boxes of keys that they would pull from when they did rekeys, and it was suggested that if you asked nicely they would give you one. I asked, and sweetened it by buying a few copies, and they happily obliged. I just took the new key and re-pinned my locks to match it.

I have a pipe in our back window that works like a sliding door. One day I was locked out and had to break in. I now keep that window almost always locked. And take solace in that its easier to kick the back door in than climb up into that window.

For sliding doors there are specialized locks now that lock the door panel(s) to the frame. However "L brackets" out panel are cheaper and French doors are nicer with working lock & bracket systems.

This seems to be a good one to solve most of the problem, especially if small kids are in the house.

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-9847-Patio-Sliding/dp/B004AHVA5S/

Yes, the loose screw is likely the problem.

I'm assuming your wall is made of 'drywall', which is in turn attached to wooden studs. Ideally, both screws would go into the studs and be very secure.

Hopefully, the distance between the screws is equal to the distance between the studs in your wall. If that's the case, it's possible you were maybe half an inch to the right or left of center, just enough so that one of the screws got into the edge of a stud, but the other one just missed. If that's the case, remounting it a little to one side will likely fix it nicely. It should still cover the old holes.

If that's not the case, then the best fix would be to replace the loose screw with a heavy drywall anchor, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10533-4-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B00QR2L7UC/ref=pd_sim_60_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4SSJ0K5SVP77XW3ZAGJV

These go into the hole in the drywall, and when the are tightened, the section inside the wall expands and pulls tight against the inner surface.

Do not be discouraged - this is the hallowed path of the DIY person. Every single time we do something new, it goes wrong, and we learn something new. This is absolutely normal and typical, indeed nearly unavoidable. Usually by the third time we do it, we get it right.

Those that are cool with this become masters. Every new project is like a little classroom.

Sorry, it sounds like she might be a pain, but hopefully she comes around.

In the meantime this or this might be what you need.

hugs: good luck

The dowels don't help as much as you'd think. On most sliding doors, it's possible to stick a narrow, stiff wire in between the panes of glass and pop the dowel out.

The best way to secure sliding glass doors is with a Charley bar. This is the one we put in our house. The best charley bars somehow secure the bar when it's lowered, with a pin or a key.

What do you do for security? I'm looking at securitizing the door to the room where my safe is and want to see what others are doing. Might just do a thick door and a good quality deadbolt, along with some pins in the hinge side like these.

I found these brackets to use for the side rails. There's a little thinking involved to get them right, but seem easy enough.

For the center support I just found some 2x4 bracket things at the hardware store. I'll screw them into the head and foot boards, then the 2x4 slides right in, so it's easy to disassemble and move. Looks a little tacky but once the mattress is on nobody will see it!

My next hurdle is to get the lumber. Haven't sourced anything yet, going in to a local place in the next few days just to see what's available. Hopefully they'll have stuff in the dimensions I need; don't have a table saw. Otherwise I'll have to figure something out there.

if you're trying to reinforce your front door, this is a good idea for the catch plate. For the hinges, a better item is this: https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Security-Screws-3-Pack/dp/B01DG0TZ1A It's a replacement screw you install in the hinges. when the hinges shut, it acts like a rod between the door and the door jam. if the door is locked and the hinge pins are on the side being attacked, popping the pins wont allow the door to be opened. If the attacker is trying to beat the door down, it's additional support. This should be used in conjunction with a better deadbolt, or multiple deadbolts. While this won't really stop someone truly determined to get in, who would look at windows, etc, it'll help beef up an entrance way.

I own a Wink Hub 2 and it works fine with the Kwikset SmartCode 916 (https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-Touchscreen-Electronic-Automation-Compatibility/dp/B00Q3N513E)

In hindsight, since we are an Apple house, I wish that I'd noticed the Kwikst Premis model. (https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-Premis-Touchscreen-Smart-Nickel/dp/B01MTKOL8Z/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484923440&sr=8-1&keywords=kwikset+premis)

It's the same as the 916 however also offers Apple HomeKit support for an extra $20.

If you're not an Apple guy though, the 916 is all you need. It's worked fine with my Wink Hub 2 and was easy to install.

1. Drill small pilot holes in your board.
   
2. Tape board to the wall where you intend to mount it. Be very careful to make sure you are getting it where you want it.
   
3. Use pilot holes in board to mark holes in drywall for anchors.
   
4. Remove board from wall.
   
5. Use proper sized bit to drill holes for your anchors centered on the pilot holes you've already drilled.
   
6. Install anchors in wall.
   
7. Screw through small pilot holes on board into anchors on the wall.
   
8. ???
   
9. Profit.
   
   Regarding the type of anchor to use, I believe molly bolts are supposed to be among the strongest options.

This is another variation of that lock that I have used on every apartment I've lived in. The advantage over the addalock is you can lock it when you leave the house. It's simple to install and looks like a regular chain lock. In my state Landlords are supposed to give 24 hours notice before entering your apartment and we all know they don't always follow the law. This keeps everyone honest and if say there is an emergency, I am sure a big strong guy can bust the door down from the outside if necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-11093-Diecast-Nickel/dp/B01AY0JPT2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EQ34PGMTBJTSK99YY7KF

It connects to a cloud service. So no hub needed. You can buy a Wifi Relay if you want, but its not necessary. The relay allows you to open the lock even when you're not in bluetooth range.

I guess the only other thing I can add is it does have IFTTT support. So if you are interested in automation at all (e.g. the lights come on when you come home) that's possible as well.

How thick is the door and how wide is the door edge bit (where the lock is)? I don't think I've seen a lock that will be a drop in replacement, but as long as there's enough space next to the glass you should might be able to use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1M5YTG/

Otherwise, you can use an electronic strike that goes into the door frame: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V45GWTI/

They're usually meant for business security so you won't find many people using them for homes and I haven't seen one that has a z-wave or zigbee radio module (they usually need a dedicated access controller and power supply).

The Kwikset offers SmartKey® Re-Keying which is also available on their dumb deadbolt/knobs...

It looks like you want to go with the Schlage since you already have Schlage and theyre not key compatible with Kwikset..

It doesnt look like Schlage offers any type of system like the Kwikset Smartkey - so you'll have to either have the new Schlage rekeyed to match your other 2 locks or vice versa..

Heres a good comparison of 3 smart locks


Looks like the Schlage is the slightly less expensive option also vs Kwikset ..

I used these with great success https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EUS8IME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wVs0Bb0F2KPVW

For those reading this looking for answers, I bought this one.
Prime-Line Products E 2400 Re-Keying Kit, Kwikset, 5 Pin https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003VP1QIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.Q6pDbJHTZDN3
My brother was able to rekey all the doors in my house. Quite easy once you get the first one done.
YouTube had a great tutorial on this same kit too

Sounds like you've done everything I would think to do in this situation. Your mother (and perhaps, you) may have lost the sense of security inside her own home at this point, so caring for that aspect will be important. If you'd like, I'd be willing to purchase some anti-theft items for your home to relieve just a bit of that stress. Some things I found on Amazon with Prime shipping and decent reviews are Addalock, Door Jammer, and Door Stop Alarm. The last one might quickly become a nuisance from false triggers or if people in your household go in and out of your home at random hours. PM me your mailing address if you'd like me to send any of these to you.

buddy, that looks like the dog's lunch.

and how many times can the door slam shut before your water bottle counter-weight tears your whole rig apart?

-

that being said, awesome job. i love it.

-

you got tools? you might find a more reliable solution would be to add a cheap electric strike.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V45GWTI/

don't know if you're in a place where you can cut up your door jamb, though.

There is a different kind of safety lock that takes up absolutely no room. Both chain locks and door latch type of lock (that are in hotels nowadays) can easily be thwarted. They are essentially privacy locks. I haven't seen this kind be opened yet (though I'm sure there is some way). https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-11126-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00QR2QCJI You should be able to find it on your amazon. There's even a little video showing how it opens and closes.

And yeah, locks are ridiculously pricey. They do sell non-smart locks with a keypad that allows you to change the code. https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-FE595VCAM619ACC-Camelot-Keypad-Flex-Lock/dp/B001GPL5WU Again, this is not a smart lock, it can't do anything wirelessly, you can't unlock it from your phone, etc. It has "auto lock"and "flex lock" you can choose. Buy an auto lock and the door is always locked so you leave the house and the door locks. Buy a flex lock and you can turn it so that it's a regular door knob, when you leave the house it's not locked (great for when you have visitors over or if the person buying has kids going in and out of the house). But this might be a good option for you, the keypad that can change at your whim without the price of a smart lock.

I think while you wait to see a professional you should better secure your doors to keep your child safe. My 2yr is experimenting with our locks now that he is tall enough so we bought a chain that has a key. My husband's childhood home had one attached to the top of the front door because the previous owner had a runner so that's where we put ours. No way my son can reach and if I leave it locked my husband can just use the key to get in.

Unless you're worried about actual bullets, it would probably be cheaper and just as effective to use security laminate instead of bulletproof glass. That way you can pick whatever door you want from any company and still stop people from breaking the glass.

And like the other guy said, you want something like this on any sliding door: http://www.amazon.com/Strybuc-16108C-48-Charley-Sliding-Glass/dp/B00106A7WY

Not mechanical

But it’s very easy to use and it’s effective.

I have these which help me sleep better at night:

https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Addalock-price-Pieces/dp/B002L6BZXC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537755798&sr=8-4&keywords=addalock+portable+door+lock

Finding a kit of skeleton keys and seeing if any works is a good easy first step. One of these two keys works on about half old interior moritse locks:
https://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I

No need:

You can but them 10 for $9 on $ONLINESTORE:

https://www.amazon.com/Southco-CH751-Keys-Pack-10/dp/B001562UII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501428930&sr=8-1&keywords=CH751+key

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=CH751+key&_sacat=0

Heck, go into any locksmith store and they'll happily make one for you, or someone elses RV.

For your own home, I think something like this would be better.

Sincerely,
Richard Nixon

Chances are that it is a standard lock that uses a standard diameter of .115". However, the heights of the pins vary from one lock to another. If you are only looking to rekey that one lock then you can buy a small number of pins on Amazon. These are the keys and keways for Kwikset (top) and Schlage (bottom).

Here is the Kwikset and Schlage rekey kits and you can pick up a small number of security pins on eBay.

Sliding patio door locks are very rarely super secure in and of themselves, and like the fellow before noted, they only accept the lock they were designed for (mostly, anyway, afaik). What you want to do is reinforce along the track behind the sliding door as it's locked. Some folks just use a wooden dowel at the bottom. My shop also sells a product called a Charley Bar that is mounted on the middle of the frame behind the sliding door. It pivots up into the side track while the door is open or in use and back down into a catch mounted on the rear side of the sliding door when it's closed. Like so.

Right now, the Yale is an even better deal...

Yale Security YRD110ZW619 Push Button Deadbolt, Satin Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PM6V1XW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_30JrDb93D07GA

Reinforcement lock or the ol' fashioned bar stop are prob best bets for an apartment. The screw holes will be hidden in the door frame so probably won't be noticed on inspection if/when you remove it. The bar is a classic...both only work if you remember to set them though.

This is the kit I got. As long as all of your locks/knobs are all schlage, you'll be good to go. There may be cheaper options with less pins, just make sure you get all the tools.

Just a word of advice, be careful opening it up, I opened it upside down and the pins went everywhere. Took a LONG time to sort them out since the size difference is extremely hard to tell.

A set of these will increase hinge strength even more dramatically when paired with the items you linked: https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Security-Screws-3-Pack/dp/B01DG0TZ1A

Might have to slightly modify the door armor, but would be worth it.

I have this thing on my gate, works great: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EUS8IME/

There are locks that fit over the knob too, something like this Prime-Line S 4180 Door Knob Lock-Out Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BOZBDK6

In addition to what other folks are posting, you could try something like these door hinge security pins. They replace some of the screws in the hinges to give a locking point in the hinges as well.

Hue starter kit for lights

I got this lock and it works wonderfully with SmartThings, IFTTT, and Home (I can tell Google to lock/unlock the back door). It was around$120 on sale (check Slick Deals for sales). https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AGK9KJQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recently got this Shlage deadbolt with touchpad and haven't used a key yet. I wanted an all-in one option (RC or Bluetooth fob, smartphone, + access code, but nothing exists (yet for Anroid). I'm pleased with this Shlage lock for the $.

edit* fixed link

Addalock is a wonderful invention.

Yeah, those picks he linked to are for padlocks. I have a set in my pick kit.

99.9% chance you can use a key from the classic Lucky Line skeleton key set and it'll work.

I installed a few of the Door Reinforcement Locks and they're amazing. We tested one on a remodel, we used sledge hammers in order to get in, but it wasn't what broke first, it was the hinges that gave... But it took a lot of time, enough time for someone at home to call the police, lock and load.

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-11126-Blocker-Anodize/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C3Y2DCYCAVSDCA023P28

+1. I have a kit for Schlage and a similar kit for Kwikset. Probably found something cheaper on eBay. You'll need a good pair of tweezers and a steady hand.

Once you pick this skill up, it's one less thing to pay a locksmith for. You can even do master systems so that one key opens multiple locks, but each lock has its own separate key.

Defender Security U 11093 Keyed Diecast Chain Door Guard, 3-1/4", Satin Nickel Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AY0JPT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_80vQBb6REBTWK

Kwikset Premis Touchscreen Smart Lock, Works with Apple HomeKit via Apple HomePod or Apple TV.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTKOL8Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6r-7CbWF2GR33

As an aside, if you're somewhere between an entry-level and moderate handyman it's not too difficult to grab a lock repinning kit from Home Depot and just change the pins in the locks. They have kits for a few different brands. Amazon has the Schlage, Weiser, and Kwikset kits for a bit cheaper than HD.

It's what I'd do between tenants. Under $20 to repin up to six locks to use the keys included in the kit. The first lock I did took a good half-hour to get the hang of it, but after that it was under 10 minutes a lock.

Addalock 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002L6BZXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OsbgybH3JFBWH

Buy something like this please.

> secure it with a prybar in the track

Don't do that, putting something on the slide just means whomever is breaking in uses it as a fulcrum to get the door off the slide.

If you have a sliding door, get a bar that mounts to the middle

I've had this and this in my Amazon shopping cart for months now. As soon as my wife and I find the house we want to buy, and move out of our rental, I'm purchasing both and installing them forthwith.

I don't have one, but you can buy one on Amazon for only $3 or so, including shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371969337&sr=8-2&keywords=skeleton+key

that's some old thing i wouldn't even use it

Remember too that locks are just delays, if someone wants through the door, they will get through eventually. So you gotta think about what will give you reasonable time to escape the situation.

I prefer the "swing bar" locks like hotels use. like this

For a few reasons. One, no chain, means it can't be slid aside with a coat hanger. Two, they are loud as fuck if somebody tries to open the door it will make a loud bang and wake you up. Three, no lock cylinder = cannot be picked. Four, it buys you at least a minute against an intruder, which gives you time to run out the other way, or, break every finger on their hand. There's a reason hotels use them!

You can also put longer screws in the hinges for added strength.

That bar should have a U-shaped bracket it fits in when the bar is horizontal. Your key slides across the top part of the U, keeping the bar from being lifted.

Here

they still make skeleton keys just like this, but with less rust.

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-4180-Door-Lock-Out-Device/dp/B00BOZBDK6/

The Yale seems to be the closet one I've found so far..

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AGK9KJQ/ref=cm_sw_su_dp

If i were to purchase it, would i get the Z-wave or zigbee?

There are so many types, here are some:

http://www.amazon.com/No-Mortise-Bed-Rail-Fittings-Set/dp/B003F0DZZ4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S7FT7E3DJJ5132V1ZKZ

http://www.amazon.com/Surface-Mount-Rail-Brackets-Complete/dp/B001DT3SLU/ref=pd_sim_hi_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S7FT7E3DJJ5132V1ZKZ

http://www.amazon.com/Locking-Safety-Rail-Brackets-Full/dp/B001DSZWN8/ref=pd_sim_hi_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S7FT7E3DJJ5132V1ZKZ

http://www.amazon.com/Galvanized-Steel-Bed-Rail-Fasteners/dp/B001DSZGCU/ref=pd_sim_hi_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=1S7FT7E3DJJ5132V1ZKZ

http://www.rockler.com/heavy-duty-wrought-steel-bed-rail-fasteners-4-pack-select-size

http://www.rockler.com/locking-safety-bed-rail-brackets

http://www.rockler.com/surface-mounted-keyhole-bed-rail-brackets

http://www.rockler.com/5-surface-mounted-bed-rail-brackets

http://www.rockler.com/surface-mount-bed-rail-brackets

Just browse the related items or use those keywords to run a Google search.

Also, I'm plugging /r/woodworking

How it works: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Addalock-price-Pieces/dp/B002L6BZXC

You too can get into most RVs and file cabinets with this common key!

KIK or on Amazon

Rim

Mortice

They're all six-pin locks, but only keyed with five pins. Adding the sixth pin to the lock yourself will give you some practice gutting and reassembling a core. Might even cause you to learn to shim since you won't have a key that operates the sixth pin.

These little kits have everything you need for rekeying as a beginner. Also here and here.

probably these

Do you know about these? You can rekey locks yourself for much less than the cost of a locksmith or new locks.

Maybe try this sort of lock

This may work, but it's not foolproof.


The exact product you're describing is hard to come by because it's an extreme safety hazard -- you could permanently lock someone into a room.

Most people with this issue screw extra hardware to the door and then use a padlock like this. Note how when the lock is on, the screws to remove the hardware are covered.

How does it attach to the rails? I have a bed that uses these that squeaked pretty bad. I oiled them and that helped significantly.

Here is something to help - not sure of the legality. You might still need a wedge when you are home, though.

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-4180-Door-Lock-Out-Device/dp/B00BOZBDK6

Actually, I read what you posted in r/legal advice. You got a lot of good advice there. Don't play games with this disturbed person. Get yourselves out of the condo and go NC.

MIL is irrational, and won't react like a normal person. Keep a log of all of her bizarre behavior - you may need it someday for a restraining order.

for external hinges look at hinge screws

​

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Hinge-Security-Screws-3-Pack/dp/B01DG0TZ1A

There's no angled bracing, looks like it might be prone to racking (i.e., if you push hard enough at the top, the top will slide over but the bottom stays put and the whole thing accordions down). Hopefully the fasteners in those 1x6's are far enough apart to provide resistance to shear stresses. And disassembly for moving will be a hassle; repeated removal and re-driving of those screws will compromise their utility. I'd have used these so that the head and foot frames were separate units and the mattress frames slot into place.

No, I actually ended up using these brackets to attach the rails to the head and footboards. I didn't want them to be attached directly or permanently.

There are doorknob locks you might try. They're like little plastic cages that hang around a knob. So no one can turn the knob, and it can only be unlocked with the key. They come in all shapes, I believe.

ETA: Not that you should have to get a lock. This is ridiculous. I'm just saying there are locks you don't have to screw into walls.

Almost all of these keys are the same. You just need a skeleton key. These can be found very cheaply. Don't call a locksmith and waste your money.

Yale door locks

Have these on all entry points. You’re able to sync to the ring alarm and have the alarm be disarmed and armed when the door locks are locked and unlocked.

My set up arms the house alarm whenever the front door is locked from the Yale lock. And the alarm is disarmed only from the utility door. (Door we use the most to access the house).

I used the ring app to configure the locks. So when you create a new user within the ring app you can select to have their pin passed to the locks. You get to choose which locks the new users can unlock. You can also lock and unlock the locks from within the ring app and with Alexa routines.

Note unlike the August locks, you’re not able to set a window time in which guest codes are good for. For example, a maid code that only works on Tuesday’s between 8am-4pm.

At least I haven’t been able to find this option.

If you have an existing "turn to open" type lock that latches into a slot in the door-frame, you can replace the slot with one of these. It has a solenoid that locks shut and only opens when you send 12v into the solenoid. You keep the door itself permanently locked (with the existing key) and only open the slot using the solenoid. If it's similar to the slot already in your door-frame, there should be minimal damage to the frame, just a few screw holes that you can easily cover up with wood-filler when you leave. Then wire up your Pi to send 12v via a relay to the solenoid (get a pre-built relay module if you're unsure about how to wire a relay to the Pi).


There's also a version that's normally open, and locks itself when you send 12v to the solenoid. Its linked on the same product page.

I've had no problems with the Schlage Connect. I installed it in new construction, so I made sure there were no issues with deadbolt alignment.

Schlage Connect Century Touchscreen Deadbolt with Built-In Alarm, Satin Nickel, BE469 CEN 619 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AGK9KJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lyhmxb1QJ7FQG

I purchased a custom SmartApp to control it. I think it was like 5 bucks. It really extends the functionality of the codes.

https://m.facebook.com/rboystapps

https://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I these ones should do the trick. Worst case, a bit of filing where the key rubs.

Sorry about the autocorrect, I meant light on your gun is a must. Also, if you don't enter your basement from the outside, this lock will make it much more difficult to kick in the door: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-11126-Reinforcement-Aluminum/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G3RRMBR9WMXWYM1Z6C8D

2nd this. Although could just use a key fob or the nfc chip in the phone, or in your schools id badge. I'm a big fan of rfid for access control. I used something like this: UHPPOTE Electric Strike Fail Secure NO Mode Lock a Part For Access Control Wood Metal Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V45GWTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.z2zybSC6GNBH
With an hid reader and programmed it to accept my school's id badge. Badge in and push the door open. Now I'm renting though and I don't really like any of the rfid dead bolts I've seen on the market, so no current smart locks for me.

get a door hardening kit. You want one that will replace the hinge screws with atleast 3in long screws, a metal bracket to wrap around the door where your locks are to prevent splitting, and a long metal bar on the frame of the door with long screws. Here's what i put on my doors:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_dNu5xbKJXZD15

You can also replace all your locks with higher security locks, don't get electronic locks as they have a bad history. If you want to make things a big pain in the ass for an intruder replace deadbolts with double cylinder deadbolts. That forces anyone who breaks in to go out the same way they came in as they cant unlock your doors. Came in a window? They're going back out the window.

Edit: there is also this, which looks pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_PZu5xb0DVAH4F

But really, a properly hardened door will be very hard to kick in and will give you plenty of time to react.

I have my doorbird connected to an electric door strike. I am using the doorbird's relay to click a button on an access controller to release the electric strike.

On the Doorbird the relay you can set it up as NC or NO.

You can use the the doorbird to open the electric strike directly.

There is a doorbird with builtin keypad.

Keypad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGN1FL6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_cO6YCb8ZPYT64

Electric strike - fail secure (No power = strike is locked
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V45GWTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZT6YCb67H4592

Get a front door that doesnt have a window, or has a very small window. You can also get a door with a steel core and no windows for added security.

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If you have any first floor windows, plant thorny bushes in front of them and keep them at window height to discourage entry through a window. Yes someone can still get over a thorny bush, but its going to create an additional time and inconvenience for them when breaking in, as compared to a non-thorny bush, or a window with no bush at all. The point of all of this and the following is just to increase the time it will take for a successful entry, burglars arent (too) stupid, and will pick softer targets than you that they think they can get in, and get out of quickly. Their ideal home is one where no one is home, the entry is easy, and they can grab items of value and get out in under 4 minutes. If the door takes 6 minutes to kick down, its not going to work. If they can't bump the lock, or cut through glass on the door to unlock from the inside, its not going to work. If they can't quite reach the window with their cutting tool because of the thorny bush, and they have to cover it with a jacket and awkwardly climb over, its not going to work. You want them to be forced to make noise to enter, while slowing their time to enter. Noise can alert neighbors if you're not home, and if you are home it can give you time to chamber a round in your rifle, turn the optic on, put on your electronic ear protection etc. That way you can have fun instead of quickly grabbing your pistol off the nightstand because its the only gun you keep in condition 1/0. You want time to prepare, and you want to know they're coming. Everything below is centered around slowing down thieves and home invaders and making their entry louder.

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Consider the following products.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GWF2R70/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Installed around the door frame this steel lining makes it EXTREMELY difficult to kick down or batter down a locked door, and also isn't visible.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZD8S8G/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3XQ9YU/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

If you don't have a very secure door lock, you may consider one of these two products as they prevent burglars from "lock bumping," which is a common lock-picking technique for people who have the typical door locks that you can buy at home depot etc. and aren't very secure.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3FJQSA/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Another way to combat lock-bumping is to buy a very secure door lock like a medeco, the keys required to lock bump a medeco are far rarer than those to bump a home depot lock, and most burglars simply don't have them.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Last but not least a metal door re-enforcer can stop a door from being kicked in if the steel frame and lock are defeated, but I think this product is overkill if you already have a steel frame and high quality lock.

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Also consider a gun in case some does manage to get past all of this. However, despite being a gun owner, I don't really think owning one is necessary, as it is a last resort. Most forced entry is done through the door or windows, once you secure those, you simply need to be vigilant when entering and exiting your house. Have a camera or peep-hole to see who's there before you open the door, if you can't see them or they don't answer, don't open the door. Most home invasions depend on the home owner opening the door and allowing entry or upon someone kicking the door lock in. While most burglars are dependent on lock-picking, broken windows, or entry through windows. A burglar will run if they think someone is home or that someone might spot/hear them. A home invader is hoping someone is home

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When coming home, don't unlock your car doors until the garage is closed and be vigilant for someone on foot following you in as you park. When departing the home do the opposite. Keep the door to your house from your garage locked as well.

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Don't display wealth or possessions outside of the home. Some people think those signs that say Secured by .45 or whatever with a gun depicted on them scare burglars. But really all it says is that "when I'm not home there are probably guns here for you to steal." Guns, Jewelry, Cash, and to a lesser extent electronics are going to be targets for burglars, and signs like that advertise that at least one of those things will be inside to be worth stealing.

So this absolute toenail of a woman has violated yours and SO's boundaries multiple times? She's been told a dozen time to cut that shit out and hasn't?

Get a lock for your door.

Can't do any damage to your door or frame of the door with screws because it's a rental or you're staying temporarily?

I got you.

Doorjammer. Easy operation, slide and adjust.

Addalock. Installs quickly, no tools needed, and easier to hide in case someone for whatever reason throws a fit about the door being locked.

Also, something else.

Door Stop Alarm. It doesn't lock the door, but it lets out a hell of a noise when it's tripped. Wanna embarass this toenail or just feel like being a bit petty? Boom, noisemaker.

No one is allowed into your room without permission. It is yours and SO's space, not for anyone else to invade. She is stomping your boundaries, and has not listened after being told to cut it out.

Is there an off chance that this woman is experiencing dementia? It might explain [but not excuse!] why this keeps happening.