> My husband and I are closing on our first home next month (yay!) and we know one of the first things to do is change the locks. A smartlock is very appealing but I'm having trouble deciding which one is best for us, because it seems the more I research the less certain I am. I also have a couple questions.

Ah, the perks of home ownership: feeling optimistic and creative, with a blank canvas in front of you. I envy you both!
Let me tell you why you should be considering the August Smart Lock brand of locks. I will post a small blurb on my contextual background and specific situation (which I posted elsewhere), then briefly mention the possible choices you have, and then respond to your list of requirements and setup,

 

 

PART I: CONTEXT

I am a renter; so obviously a lot of what I have to say may seem irrelevant. Seeing as I do not have a lot of creative control over the property, this would make smart locks tricky business. However, my landlord gave me permissions to replace the entire deadbolt, if I wanted. So, the first set of requirements were drafted as:

MUSTS:

• We have a dog that requires a dog walker to enter our house multiple times a week. The lock must allow this situation in as safe a manner as possible.
  
  
• We do not want to have to make copies of keys
  
  
• We do not want the dog walker (or any visitor) to HAVE TO download an app to get into the property
  
  WANTS:
  
  
• Smart home integrate-able
  
  
• Reliable and well rated
  
  
• Cheap
  
  
• Connect to it remotely to lock/unlock and monitor
  
  
• Z-Wave compatible (came later, when I realized I wanted to have a smart home integration environment)
  
  So, my research began, in earnest. It consumed me. Off the bat, the first names to pop up were August, Kwikset, Schlage and Yale.
  Of those, three had keypad options, which became a requirement soon after. Despite the perks of the Kwikset Kevo (the touch to open), I removed it from the list.
  Also, despite the fiance having an iPhone, I had an Android, so the lock had to have equal footing mobile phone ecosystem-independent. That removed things like Schlage Sense and other Homekit-only options.
  
  The final list:
  
  
• August
  
  
• Yale YRD226 (A really good Yale lock choosing guide here)
  
  
• Schlage Connect
  
  I did a ton of cross referencing, reviews websites, pros and cons, etc etc. And CONSISTENTLY, the August locks were ranked #1/#2/#3. I won't go into too much more detail on what those websites and reviews indicated, I trust you guys can do that research.
  
  But, in the end, the August locks were exactly what we needed, AND more. They were going to be the easiest to set up, and the best out of the gate. So we went with them, and haven't looked back since. My fiance, a "smart-home-always-listening" skeptic, casually told me yesterday how awesome she finds the smart lock.
  
   
  
   
  
  

  PART II: THE LINEUP
  

  
  So, what options to choose from?
  
  

• The August Smart Lock Pro (August | Amazon)
  
  Pros: Most up to date, improved tech under the hood, Z-Wave Plus compatible, Door Sense, most smart home integrations available, Auto lock/unlock
  
  Cons: Most expensive
  
  
• The August Smart Lock 3rd Generation (August | Amazon)
  
  Pros: Improved tech under the hood from the previous generation, Door Sense, Auto lock/unlock, traditional form factor, Cheaper
  
  Cons: No useful smart home integrations (missing homekit, alexa/echo, google home, z wave)
  
  To compare the above two, go here: http://august.com/keyless-entry/
  
  
• The August Smart Lock 2nd Generation (Amazon)
  
  Pros: Most cost effective ($125, but last week it was $109!) but still ranked #1 on MANY reputable websites (CNET | PCMag | etc), has built-in HomeKit capability, can be enhanced with additional devices
  
  Cons: Least impressive underlying tech, no Door Sense capability, no effective smart home integrations
  
   
  
  "Door Sense": The ability to detect "Door open" / "Door Closed" situation.
  
   
  
  An Aside : Enhancement Products
  
  
• The August Smart Keypad (August|Amazon)
  
  This keypad adds in the functionality that you'd expect:
  
  -- keyless code entry for guests (unlimited codes, managed via the app)
  
  -- Lock it with a button press
  
  -- Attachable for preferred outside entry
  
   
  
  
• The August Connect Wifi Bridge (August|Amazon)
  
  This device enables you to link your otherwise-bluetooth-range-only smart lock to your wifi, effectively allowing you to connect and manage the smart lock from ANYWHERE that you have network connectivity. With it, you can:
  
  -- Remotely lock/unlock your door
  
  -- Receive alerts on any actions taken on your door remotely
  
  -- have faster access to your lock as your app selects the best connection to use
  
   
  
  

  PART 2.5: BUNDLES/SALE
  

  
  Consider price-watching for sales; I saw the 2nd gen for, like $109...
  Personally, I jumped when the Smart Lock Pro + Wifi bridge bundle went on sale for $229 (same price as the lock itself), and the keypad was $55, on Amazon.
  
  

• August Smart Lock Pro + Connect Wifi: AMAZON $249 | AUGUST $249
  
  
• Sale price - August Smart lock 2nd Gen HomeKit: AMAZON $125 !!
  
  
• August Smart Lock 3rd Generation + Connect Wifi: AUGUST $199
  
   
  
   
  
  PART III : Why the August Locks work for your situation (below)

As I'm sure you guessed, this lock is quite old. I believe it would be considered a rim lock as it mounts to the face of the door rather than being bored into the edge of the door. You may be able to find some markings on it but even then it might not be too helpful, the company could be out of business for a long long time by now. Even if they're still around its doubtful they would be any help as Im sure they stopped supporting this hardware long ago.

The good news is that since its for an interior door there is a pretty good chance it uses one of a couple of keys which are easily and cheaply available. I would try these, its worth the gamble of a few bucks. If they work one lock in your house they probably work all the others too (assuming the other locks are in working order of course). http://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I

You are correct about the spring, it appears to me to be missing. The spring sits in the slot you were describing. That piece is the lever (you have a lever tumbler lock) and the spring is anchored in that slot, wraps around the rounded part and is held in place by the inside of the case. Something like this.

https://imgur.com/23p1wYg

A local locksmith should be able to make you a spring like this pretty cheaply, assuming they work on old stuff, a lot don't these days. I would call up a shop and tell them you have an antique lock that uses a bit key that you need a spring made for and see what they say. You can probably pick up the keys for them as well.

Short version- it's probably cheaper to buy a 2nd robot vacuum, unless you go total DIY route.

Medium version- Unless the hallway is an outside hallway (IE one of the hallway walls is on the outside of the house) you probably aren't wasting any money heating it. If the hallway is surrounded by heated rooms, then the hallway itself won't bleed much heat except maybe through the ceiling and that's probably to another apartment.

Long version: Locking and unlocking doors is fairly easy. Unlatching doors is a bit harder- motorized doorknobs aren't really a common thing so you'd need an electric security strike plate. That would probably require cutting out a lot of the door frame to mount it. Then you have the issue of actually opening and closing the door. It has to open and close with enough force that it pushes the latch through the strike plate, but also should have some safety mechanism so it can't cause any harm to a human or pet. That's one reason why automatic door openers (like you see at the supermarket) are quite expensive- you need a powerful motor but you also need a bunch of sensors to stop the motor before it does any damage. Those things are quite expensive and require custom mounting. They're also fugly- this is the smallest most attractive one I could find and it's $530. You could use something more like an automatic gate opener but that's still $289.

If you were to do this, the DIY route is probably the way to go. The strike plate is easy enough, you can get that on Amazon for $23. That just needs 12vdc to unlock it. The opener is the harder part. You'd probably want something like a long stroke linear actuator. Alternatively you could make something using some gears and stuff- there are a few ways to do that.

But when you put all this together, you are still spending a good amount of money. Even if it's just $100 (which I'd put as the absolute bare minimum for this) how long will it take you to realize $100 worth of energy savings vs just leaving the hallway doors open?

You can secure the door with “defend security.” It’s really secure but not functional if you need to open the door from the outside. But very secure if you just need the door to stay locked.

This is what I use because my toddler could unlock the door and deadbolt. It was easy to install. Had a minor issue of the door being too snug but I eventually figured it out.

FYI, I am not at all knowledgeable in this area. Just letting you know what I did and what worked for me in my situation. Good luck!

Defender Security

They are the worst, these people!

Perhaps replacing the lock right now but keeping the current lock to reinstall once you move would help? That way you have a locked door between you but she can't whine about her key not working because the lock still exists and will be put back in place once the space is hers to do with as she likes.

You need a safe space where these people can't reach you. In addition to chains, maybe one of these? I had a hotel room with something like this once and even though I was staying alone, I felt really secure.

Honestly I would probably add this type of product to all of my doors and windows and install Nest or Ring cameras at each entrance, if that's affordable. Maybe even one pointing at her workshop so you can see whether she's hanging around trying to peek at you, Spy vs Spy-style. 🙂

The door should have a (or more) 2x4 stud on each side of the door that's flush (or, close - within a 1/2" or less) with the door casing. (the first pic on this page shows how it should be framed.) The door should be nailed/screwed into those studs on both the hinge side and the lock side. The studs are what should hold the weight of the door on the hinge side, and hold the latch securely on the lock side. If this was hung correctly, after you've drilled through the casing, you should see a stud, not a cavity. (Like I said earlier, the stud could be a little bit away from the casing, but not much - you should easily see it). In that case, you'd just use longer screws to install the latch plate (those 3/4" screws are useless for security. You want 2+" steel screws that will hold in the 2x4 stud - both on the latch side AND the hinge side.)

But, it sounds like your door is NOT hung correctly, and at least this one side doesn't have a stud. "Fixing" it correctly is a bigger project that involves taking out the existing door, putting in the king and jack studs in the right place, adding a header and cripple studs, then re-hanging the door. That's a good bit of work, and would require some drywall work and paint after you are done. It might be too big of a job for you.

But, before you do that, I'd ask where is the door? Is it an interior or exterior door? And why you are putting in the deadbolt. Is it for true security, or just a little bit more privacy?

If it's exterior, I'd get it re-framed correctly. If it's interior, and you just want a little bit more privacy, consider a security latch - something like this or even this. Neither of these will be as good as framing it correctly, but it will make it a little more difficult to kick in (but not really hard).

Good luck.

Do it yourself. It is MUCH cheaper.

I recommend this one if you want to replace the entire knob. (kwikset) It has the benefit of being able to re-key your locks in about 10 seconds, without disassembling the knob, if you decide to change your locks again in the future. Super easy. $20 per knob.

Alternatively, you could get something like this (re-keying kit). It's only $10, and you can re-key several locks. It's definitely a bit delicate though. Make sure to follow the instructions very precisely, or you'll end up with pins shooting everywhere from the springs.

Whichever method you choose, you should be done in about an hour. Do you like the idea of having a job that makes/saves $130 per hour?

Maybe off topic but since we are speaking on home security it kinda fits. I was a residential door installer for years. I have replaced countless doors I to people's homes. You would not believe how many doors I've seen installed with 1 inch screws. Check and replace these screws with 3 inch screws. They are usually long enough to hit the framing of the house and add strength. Also many doors do not have deadbolts so the cheapest and easiest solution to this I have found is an amazon product. Very easy to Install with a drill and feels very sturdy. It can only be locked from the inside how ever so best use is for a door in a garage or back door.

Defender Security Satin Nickel U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock - Add Extra, High Security to your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry - 3" Stop, Aluminum Construction Finish, 3" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PMTUDbGP65SPB

TL;DR (at bottom)

Hide-A-Key (Amazon Link, basically the same thing as a Hide-A-Key, I'm just saying the name brand I think)

Costs under $5 and even if you NEVER lock yourself out they'll be the time where you're in a hurry and you hear that door shut and you'll be like "Fuck"' Then you'll spend 2 minutes top grabbing your Hide-A-Key and unlocking your car door.

Just be sure to check on your hide-a-key every now and then, pull it out and inspect it (preferably where people don't see you do this, I always kick my gym water bottle under my car and go to grab the bottle and secretly grab the hide-a-key, that way if someone sees me they aren't watching my slight of hand key snatch). You'll want to visibly inspect the key box as well as check for your keys (car key and house key is what I have) and make sure the keys still work. It's important to check because one time I checked the key box and the top had been busted and the keys had fallen out. So I was able to replace the box and the keys (still under $15).

Also make sure to put your keys inside a plastic bag if some sort the hide-a-key boxes are not completely water proof. I live where it gets pretty snowy on the roads and you don't want salt and sand getting all over your keys.

TL;DR:

Get a Hide-A-Key (magnetic key box)

• Under $5
  
• You'll never have to wait for your spare key to arrive by a family member or pay a locksmith
  
• Make sure to check them often
  
• Use a small plastic bag to keep your keys dry

I have an [august lock](August Smart Lock 2nd Generation – Silver, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXO3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zNQKzbV5KTA0J), couldn't be happier after install hardware is simple enough to install although my one gripe is that i wish the motor was a tad stronger for those old/sticky locks but nothing a $40 lock or WD cant fix. The [august iOS app](August Home by August Home, Inc.
https://appsto.re/us/GFTQM.i) support is top notch with updates coming once a 1-2/mo. If have the $$ you can take it a step further and get an [august wifi bridge](August Connect Wi-Fi Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0168IXNFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FQQKzbANTWP42) to allow for lock/unlock outside of home network.

An app is nice but you should always assume cops are around every corner and behind every bush.

I don't know how well it would work but I recommend something like this. Just put that shit under the car and don't worry about it. Though, I'll admit, I recommend it in theory. I've never used one myself, so I don't know if something like that is all that great.

>I hate guns

This is a response that a lot of people have who didn't grow up around guns. However, don't let that emotional response affect your safety. If you're open minded in having the best self defense tool available, go take a gun safety course. Preferably one that includes live fire after classroom instruction. This will demystify firearms, which for most people, removes the fear of them. After this, you should still have a healthy respect for them and what they can do. To keep them inaccessible to your children, get a quick access safe.

Whether or not you get a gun, here's some other things you can do:

• Door Jamb reinforcement kit. These cost between $8 and $70 depending on how heavy duty you want to go, but they will make your door many times stronger than it is currently. Here's a basic one: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-10385-Strike-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/ - this comes with 3 inch screws to anchor into your studs behind your door frame.
  
• Replace hinge screws with 3 inch screws. If you have the door jamb reinforcement kit, you should do this too to take care of the hinges which may still be vulnerable to kick ins.
  
• Additional door security: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-11126-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00QR2QCJI - these will make it harder to break in while you're home.
  
• Additional door security: https://www.amazon.com/South-Main-Hardware-810185-Adjustable/dp/B0742TN5X6 - another thing to keep your door closed.
  
• If you have a window near your door that could be broken to unlock the door, consider window security film, which will make it harder to break.
  
• Get a monitored alarm system. Either professional install (ADT, etc.) or one that you install yourself (SimpliSafe, Abode, Scout, etc.). Typically the ones you install yourself do not come with contracts, but you have to buy the equipment up front.
  
• Security cameras can get expensive, and they can't stop a crime in progress, although they may be a deterrent if a would-be burglar sees them. I would skip this until your budget increases. The money you would have spent on that will go further with the other suggestions mentioned.
  
• That being said, a doorbell camera (Ring, Skybell) can be a great tool for when you're not home. Some burglars will knock or ring the doorbell to determine if the house is empty (they would rather break into an empty house). If you have a doorbell camera, you can respond to them when they knock or ring, making them think that you are actually home which is likely to make them leave.

Viewers I'm about to change your life.

​

There's a strong STRONG likelihood that the key to that particular nuisance box is a CH751.

​

Get beyond ballpoint pens and improvised levers- with a CH751 you can have that box open at your beck and call.

​

And did I mention it works on more than just office HVAC cages? Here is a small list of equipment that was also fitted (and thus, opened) with a CH751:

​

​

* Air conditioner units

* Liquor cabinet

* Most RVs

* Desks

* Gas Pumps

* Soda Fountain

* And a bunch of other shit!

​

​

And I'm sure you're wondering how much such a key could cost. I'm sure if it can open so many things it must be expensive. That's the best part- you can get a set of 10 keys, enough for you, your spouse, your work friend, your boss, your baby mama, your dog, that cool guy from the office next door, the intern, your weed guy, and his weed guy, for LESS THAN $8.

​

​

[Worth it for the Toilet Paper convenience alone. ](https://www.amazon.com/Southco-CH751-Campers-Cabinets-Locks/dp/B001562UII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=ch751&qid=1561386162&s=gateway&sr=8-1)

You probably need permission, but this door armor kit is great:

https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Combo-Set/dp/B008N3QW4O


For added security, this is a quick and easy install as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Reinforcement-Construction/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1472977974&sr=1-1&refinements=p_4%3APrime-Line+Products

1.) I'm not 100% sure on the answer, but if you want one key for one house, you'll need one brand of locks. Then you can always look up a pin kit for that brand. I just don't know to what extent brands are compatible in terms of pins.

2.) You'll need tweezers, a large paperclip, like big and strong (helps you pop open door knobs), a cylinder remover (pops off the retaining ring), and a plug tool for holding the springs in place when you change out the pins.

3.) Operate slowly and read the directions. It's hard to know what to expect when you do it the first time, so they'll probably pop. When this happens, use the plug tool. Put it in so that it covers up 3 pins. With the 2 exposed pin, pop in the spring of the pin adjacent to the plug. Pop the pin on top. It helps to kind of wedge the plug against the pin as you set it into place. Then slide the plug over the pin. Repeat for the next hole. Now, slide the plug all the way through the lock so that only the two pins you placed in there are covered. Repeat procedure for remaining 3 pins. Now pop the cylinder back in and pray you never have to do this again.

https://smile.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-2400-Kwikset-Tumbler/dp/B003VP1QIG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473381526&sr=8-6&keywords=rekey+tool

This kit has everything you need, but only does a few locks.

I've traveled from AZ -> NY twice, smoking the whole way.

In terms of where to carry it, if you're keeping enough for a couple of weeks, it'll help to store some of the long-term herb in magnetic key boxes attached under your car / in your wheel well / inside your dashboard. ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WXGLS2/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000OQHS0U&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0MGQ564Y48CTZ9TMGMCV ) They don't hold too much, though.

I don't know if you smoke cigarettes, but they really help I think. Whenever I travel I don't even bring a bowl or any sort of piece, I smoke spliffs. I also roll my own cigarettes, and a "what's that smoky smell?" can easily be answered. Also, if you ever get pulled over, or you're rolling through stops, DON'T THROW YOUR ROACH OUT THE WINDOW. Cops hate this, it's disrespectful. Light another cigarette and keep it in your hand or your ashtray. I had a friend who got pulled over because he flicked a cigarette out the window while the cop was following him.

These are things I'm sure you could figure out, but when you're lighting up on the highway, you wanna be not surrounded by other cars. If you have to go a little bit slower than the rest of the traffic, so be it. Don't worry about truck drivers, they're pretty much cool.

As good an idea as it seems, smoking while stopped at a rest stop is a bad idea. In fact, smoking while stopped anywhere that you don't know very well is a bad idea.

Best of luck on your trip. I dunno what route you're going, but I suggest going to Zion National Park and Black Hills South Dakota. Don't go to any Subways (the sandwich shop) on your trip as tempting as it may be. They're everywhere but it's a waste of food. Go to some local little shop where all the locals hang out. They might give you weird looks but if you're high enough it won't be so bad.

Contact the police.

I believe those are sign of attempted or successful forced entry with a pry bar. There is a small paint nick on what I assume is part of the door handle plate, where someone may have attempted to insert a pry bar, but the space between the door frame and lock plate was too narrow to insert the pry bar directly next to the door handle. The paint scratches bellow look like a person tried to knock a pry bar between the door and door frame, with the intent on sliding the pry bar up to the latch/lock point, but the space between the door and door frame was too narrow to slide the pry bar up to the door latch/lock. Multiple pry bars may have been attempted to be used at once. pry the door open a little, and put the next pry bar closer to the lock, and repeat the process until the pry bar is next to the door latch.

Then, with some less secure doors, the door's small 2 inch by 3 inch strike plate is secured with two 1" wood screws secured by 1 inch of 2x4, which is very easy to split and break with little effort. You seem to have an exterior metal security door that is pre-mounted to a full metal door frame that deters attempted burglary.

This is the mandatory part for other people reading this, whom have a wood framed entry door.

Reinforce your door frame with a larger strike plate!

Even if your door is solid wood, and there are no windows within 5 ft of the door, also replace the standard door hinges with security stud hinges which will prevent the door from being pushed off after removing the hing pin while the door is closed.

Use a raised lip threshold plate with a metal lip, not rubber or wood or plastic. This is to prevent a burglar from inserting a long wire hangar under the door gap, and catching the door latch.

Use this lock in a specific way. If you have a door handle on the inside like a handle lever attach the part with the ball on the end above the door handle touching near the end of the handle. This way the door handle cant be activated by catching a looped string dropped from above the door, and pulling the handle up. If the interior door handle is a round knob, attach the ball ended part of this touching the bottom of the door knob, and the swinging part of this above the knob so it drops onto the knob. This will make using a rubber tube to turn the knob from the outside much more difficult and time consuming.

Nothing is 100% secure. But time, effort, luck, and noise required to bypass a security lock system can deter a criminal. Also motion lighting. Lots of motion lighting.

Short answer: You need to move, this could escalate to violence including a murder. If taking a job in another state can keep everyone in your household alive then it is an action you need to seriously consider.

If for whatever reason you decide to stay then read on.

If you are the target then typical criminal deterrence will not be effective.

Cameras are good for collecting evidence for police, without evidence police won't do anything. Their job is to arrest criminals after they have committed a crime not protect you from a future crime.

You need to ensure the entries to your house are hardened, there are many resources online on how to harden your doors and windows. Here is a simple guide from the sidebar that has some good ideas: https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/04/22/complete-guide-to-home-security/ . I personally have a stronger strike plate with 3" screws and a door jam on my external doors.

None of this protects you from someone burning your house down while you are inside. You need good fire detection and quality fire extinguishers as well as methods to escape through windows on upper floors is necessary. Create an escape plan for multiple scenarios and ensure your family does a regular walkthrough and everyone knows it by heart. Beware that the fire may be used to lure you outside to attack you with violence when you are no longer protected by the walls of your home. This is a fairly common carjacking technique where the criminals cause a small fender bender and when the person gets out of the car they steal it with violence or the threat of violence. I briefly cover personal protection below but you must be aware of that tactic so you can be prepared if that is the scenario you find yourself in

If you are the target then you need to take your personal protection and the protection of your family very seriously. Don't take this responsibility alone, your gf and her kids need to up their awareness. If something seems out of place do not ignore it, mitigate your risk by removing yourself/family from the danger that could surround that abnormality.

You also need a means to protect yourself if this harasser gets violent with you or your family. I'm a firearms person and live in Nevada where I can fairly easily obtain a concealed firearms permit. Where you live you may not be able to legally carry outside your home. A firearm and training are the best force multipliers civilians can use to defend themselves against unknown threats (we don't what this person is capable of, what tools he will use, or if he is acting alone). Personally, I believe an 5.56mm AR-15 rifle is the best home defense tool and a 9mm handgun is the best on person defense tool. You mentioned your girlfriend has 2 kids, regardless of age you must be 100% committed to ensuring any firearms you bring into a house with kids is behind a lock any time it is not on your person. In your situation I would recommend you have a handgun on your hip at all times you are awake. If you need more help with fireams advice/tactics/resources I can help you.

If firearms are not right choice for you (they aren't if you can't be 100% committed to ensuring it is impossible for the kids to get access) there are other less effective tools. I prefer pepper spray and carry it in addition to a firearm. Get some small canisters for on body carry and some of these larger canisters for in the home. Understand that when you deploy the spray everyone will be impacted and it will only buy some time to escape. I do not recommend stun guns as they are inconsistent and many people recover fairly quickly when they are done riding the lightning. Knives are effective at creating fatal wounds but not effective at stopping threats. A wounded attacker can still inflict damage for minutes after receiving a fatal stab wound. So I would not recommend those unless you have some knife defense proficiency already. Striking tools like batons and baseball bats can be effective medium range tools but can also be used against you if you are disarmed and rarely incapacitate in a single swing. These tools are only to ensure you and your household survive in the event you have to fight for your life, awareness and avoiding the fight is your most effective tool and only if your awareness fails should you have to resort to your fighting tools.

Hopefully your cameras can catch this individual doing something significant enough that the police will get involved and remove them from the general public. You can't depend on that though and have to have a layered approach to ensuring the safety of yourself and everyone in your household. Good luck!

edit: my phone bugged and I had to finish this from my computer, sorry for the originally cut off response.

I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but this is in my Amazon Wishlist in case I get that opportunity.

Hidden door Hinge System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHON2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PoivxbRRHAQVM

I've always wanted to have my foyer be a small library, maybe 5'x8', bookshelves floor to ceiling, tile floor, maybe a nice chair, and the only way in to the rest of the house is a secret door. There's a book or a note on the table next to the chair with a clue. After a few clues they find the book to pull to open it.

I'd be so good at parties. It's surprising that I'm a redditer and have no friends...

This is a great solution. I did the same thing when I bought my new home. Paranoid at the core (aren't we all?), I didn't want anyone else being involved in the process. I bought a Schlage kit at Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00002N768) for $70 and then spent an hour changing 3 locks.

The tricky part was getting a new key to set the locks to. You can buy keys from Amazon, eBay, etc., but the last thing I wanted was a record of a new key being sent to a specific address. I had heard that Home Depot and Lowes had boxes of keys that they would pull from when they did rekeys, and it was suggested that if you asked nicely they would give you one. I asked, and sweetened it by buying a few copies, and they happily obliged. I just took the new key and re-pinned my locks to match it.

As user Enndogger says, you can have the locks set with a "master" and a user code. The "master" would open the common door, the user code would open the individual units. I use Kwikset locks and a kit like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-236-Builders-Keying-Kit/dp/B000NKHKS2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497467654&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kwikset+re-key+pin+set

The investment in the re-keying set was one of the best/dollar I've made as a landlord. Rekeying quickly, cheaply, and easily between tenants - wonderful. Having a common Master for almost all doors to carry in my pocket - fantastic! (granted, was up to 53 doors at the high point).

I live in an apartment as well and was unsure about how to add things to make the place more secure while not breaching anything in the lease.

• First thing I decided on was the Skylink SC1000. It's completely wireless except for the main panel, and everything goes up with Double Sided foam tape. You can add sensors on, add an additional siren (I have a second one in my bedroom window cutout so I hear it in the middle of the night, and its also audible outside for passerby's to hear). I also have a second panel in the bedroom for arming/unarming. It also has "home" and "away" modes so you can set a 0 second delay on the siren and not include motion detectors when home or locking up for the night. Super affordable and very easy to install and use. They also offer a remote dialer but check with your local 911 PSAP to see if they are ok for use. (in my area they are not, but the dialer calls a relative). I've given the code to my landlord although with 24 hours notice required for non-emergency 'drop-ins', it hasn't been needed.
  
  
• Number 2: I spoke to the landlord and changed the locks and upgraded to a Schlage deadbolt and knob. You know they aren't changing the locks when people move out so there is no telling who has a key still. I just had to give one to my landlord. Schlage also gives you the tool to 're-key' a lock if you key should become lost.
  
  
• Number 3: I put a Brinks outdoor locking lever on my bedroom door. I wanted to ensure a safe place to retreat in the event of a home invasion and I sleep sounder knowing the door is locked and there's a barrier creating a delay between the alarm sounding and someone being in my face.
  
  
• Number 4: A relatively inexpensive IP Camera with Pan/Tilt/Zoom in the living room that covers the bedroom door and main door depending on angle, and another inside my living room window pointed at the walk up for the building.
  
  The last thing that is still on my wish list is a Peephole camera. For now I just throw a hat over the peephole to keep the light from showing whether i'm home or not or if my face just got right against the door.
  
  
  My last piece of advice is that if there is a landline phone, call your 911 center's non-emergency line and ask to test the information received by their system when 911 is dialed. With VOIP, the information could be totally wrong and even misdirected to the incorrect agency. If cell phones are the only thing in use at the house, make sure the cell phone company has the correct address on file. If a cell phone calls 911 and it sounds like there is an obvious emergency (eg: someone screaming) but the person on the line is unable to give clear information or an address, they can contact the cell provider and get a billing address. If the bill is sent elsewhere, an alternative address can usually be added to the account.

That's really scary. I'm glad your dog alerted you! I'd follow up with a call to the police department. Others have great suggestions - I'd also recommend these door locks that we have: Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock - Add Extra, High Security to Your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry - 3" Stop, Aluminum Construction (Satin Nickel Finish) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M1qiDbAVNK3XR

If you can't leave sooner than 4 months, I suggest looking into renting a storage locker for you things so they can't trash your possessions when you are not there. (As far as they're concerned, the things were sold because you needed cash or whatever.)

If you cannot leave sooner, for your own personal safety, consider getting a travel door lock. You can keep it with you when you're not home, and have a way to secure your door when you're resting. A portable door alarm might also help you to rest more easily.

If they don't know you have one of those door locks, anyone trying to pick the doorknob may assume they've done something incorrectly.

It connects to a cloud service. So no hub needed. You can buy a Wifi Relay if you want, but its not necessary. The relay allows you to open the lock even when you're not in bluetooth range.

I guess the only other thing I can add is it does have IFTTT support. So if you are interested in automation at all (e.g. the lights come on when you come home) that's possible as well.

How thick is the door and how wide is the door edge bit (where the lock is)? I don't think I've seen a lock that will be a drop in replacement, but as long as there's enough space next to the glass you should might be able to use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D1M5YTG/

Otherwise, you can use an electronic strike that goes into the door frame: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V45GWTI/

They're usually meant for business security so you won't find many people using them for homes and I haven't seen one that has a z-wave or zigbee radio module (they usually need a dedicated access controller and power supply).

You know better than I do what you need to be ready for, but in case you need extra security on any doors, think about an Addalock or a Travelers Security Lock. Comparative review: https://www.amazon.com/Travelers-Security-Lock-Portable-Toughest/product-reviews/B00AFN2NKW/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_acr_sr?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews

Here's a portable door lock you could use for when "just walking in" is inappropriate.

Also, need to have that talk about "respecting ones need for some privacy" and how she wouldn't like it if you were to barge in on her while she's changing. It's pretty rough if you are so fed up as to consider doing the same to her to let her be on the receiving end 'to see how she likes being barged in on while nude'.

We have these for our door

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=door+security+latch&qid=1571533153&sprefix=door+security+&sr=8-3

We love em, they are super sturdy and the point of leverage on them paired with long screws makes them solid

For those reading this looking for answers, I bought this one.
Prime-Line Products E 2400 Re-Keying Kit, Kwikset, 5 Pin https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003VP1QIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.Q6pDbJHTZDN3
My brother was able to rekey all the doors in my house. Quite easy once you get the first one done.
YouTube had a great tutorial on this same kit too

TA DA! A small number of Schlage pins to pin up a few locks.

You really can't take apart a SFIC like you would any other lock. Here is a great write up on them. LFIC can be gutted and pinned in the traditional way.

buddy, that looks like the dog's lunch.

and how many times can the door slam shut before your water bottle counter-weight tears your whole rig apart?

-

that being said, awesome job. i love it.

-

you got tools? you might find a more reliable solution would be to add a cheap electric strike.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V45GWTI/

don't know if you're in a place where you can cut up your door jamb, though.

There is a different kind of safety lock that takes up absolutely no room. Both chain locks and door latch type of lock (that are in hotels nowadays) can easily be thwarted. They are essentially privacy locks. I haven't seen this kind be opened yet (though I'm sure there is some way). https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-11126-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00QR2QCJI You should be able to find it on your amazon. There's even a little video showing how it opens and closes.

And yeah, locks are ridiculously pricey. They do sell non-smart locks with a keypad that allows you to change the code. https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-FE595VCAM619ACC-Camelot-Keypad-Flex-Lock/dp/B001GPL5WU Again, this is not a smart lock, it can't do anything wirelessly, you can't unlock it from your phone, etc. It has "auto lock"and "flex lock" you can choose. Buy an auto lock and the door is always locked so you leave the house and the door locks. Buy a flex lock and you can turn it so that it's a regular door knob, when you leave the house it's not locked (great for when you have visitors over or if the person buying has kids going in and out of the house). But this might be a good option for you, the keypad that can change at your whim without the price of a smart lock.

Yeah, but you could get two of these for less than half the price of the Mech version, and it would do just as good a job.

I think the Mech version is too expensive for what it's worth. The Connect version might be more usable.

I actually just did this at my house we bought last week! I bought schlage rekey set and even got the override on a smart key. https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-2402-Schlage-Tumbler/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469820045&sr=8-1&keywords=schlage+rekey

Hope this helps. Took me a few hours to do 5 locks and the smart lock but I also didn't know what I was doing. Really worth it.

If moving is not an option, work on hardening your home. There are simple fixes you can do in a weekend, like installing this door stopper
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2K367Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3M makes a nice shatter proof glass film to install on your windows. Get a big dog. Install motion lights and cameras. Cameras are cheap these days. Alarms and security systems are useful. There are tons of little things to harden your home to deter criminals. If that doesn't work, your second layer of defense is advanced notice (dogs, lights, cameras) to give you time to get to your weapon.

These are all easy and minor fixes. It's a mindset...always work to improve your position and refuse to be a victim.

What about one of those key boxes? they are usually magnetic and are a small black box with a slide to put keys in but im sure you could fit a small stash in it. like this

Would this help? My friend swears by it

Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock – Add Extra, High Security to Your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry – 3” Stop, Aluminum Construction (Satin Nickel Finish) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Dwy1CbTQTWN65

Wow dude, either you downplayed the danger of your neighborhood or the severity of your paranoia. That said, here are some options:

If you're just looking for an audible alert, a door entry sensor that makes a tone when tripped (like on store entrances) may work, or you can hang some bells from the door knob. There are also alarm options such as this ( https://www.amazon.com/Door-Wedge-Alarms-pack-2/dp/B00A1DY6WO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485088469&sr=8-3&keywords=travel+door+jamb+security )


If you're looking for added physical security, there are several temporary/travel lock options:


https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Addalock-1-Piece/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485088469&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=travel+door+jamb+security


https://www.amazon.com/Travelers-Security-Lock-Llc/dp/B00AFN2NKW/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485088469&sr=8-3-fkmr3&keywords=travel+door+jamb+security


Hope this helps, but honestly you may consider moving if it's so bad you have to pile things in front of the door and leave a TV on all night.

Defense in Depth:

1. good neighborhood (sounds like this is out)
   
2. sturdy doors/doorjambs, multiple locks (knob, deadbolt, chain, this thing)
   
3. fence/fence-like shrubbery
   
4. bright motion-activated outdoor-lights
   
5. alarm system
   5a) dog
   
6. camera system
   
7. firearm

He's talking about something like this FYI:

http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-9585-Non-Recessed-Stainless/dp/B00D2K3IPE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410445556&sr=8-1&keywords=door+knob+reinforcer

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-9-in-Stainless-Steel-Door-Guard-U-9586/100285175

Looks like you may need a new knob-set as well if the latch is gone and you can't find a similar replacement

Buy a Schlage & Kwikset (by far the 2 most popular residential locks) pinning kit and get a couple used knobs from thrift/hardware store. You can learn how to rekey the locks and you'll be effectively picking a different lock every time.

Or you could just get one of these for less than ten bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_82kLDb5XJP83Y7

I have them on my doors. They're really solid. I just use them at night, gives me a little more peace of mind. I live in a safe neighborhood, but one night a few years ago there was a crazy drugged-out guy breaking into homes with the families asleep inside, just looking for money I guess, but still. Obviously he got caught pretty quickly but with young kids at home I decided that I should reinforce my doors somehow.

Finding a kit of skeleton keys and seeing if any works is a good easy first step. One of these two keys works on about half old interior moritse locks:
https://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I

Yes I know. There are a number of other factors involved here many of whom are out of my control as well. Anyway, I think I'll just install one of these. That was my initial idea but gf didn't like the look but she'll have to live with it. Thanks.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y

FYI: you can buy kits to rekey your own locks if you're looking to save some money. I moved into a house and used this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RIDQD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Took ~2 hours to change 5 locks. Way cheaper than swapping out 2 deadbolts and 3 knobs.

No need:

You can but them 10 for $9 on $ONLINESTORE:

https://www.amazon.com/Southco-CH751-Keys-Pack-10/dp/B001562UII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501428930&sr=8-1&keywords=CH751+key

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=CH751+key&_sacat=0

Heck, go into any locksmith store and they'll happily make one for you, or someone elses RV.

For your own home, I think something like this would be better.

Sincerely,
Richard Nixon

The deadbolt itself is hardly a concern for somebody kicking in your door.

For front door security, you need a few things:

• Nightlock floor-mounted barricade
  
• Two entry stops along your lock side door jamb
  
• Door jamb armor kit
  
• Deadbolt flip guard
  
  Assuming you have a solid core door and use at least 3" nails screws (oops) to install everything (pre-drill pilot holes so you don't split your frame/jamb), that door will be straight up zombie apocalypse proof. Somebody would have to use explosives to get it open.
  
  This is pretty much how I did my front door, so I've bought and installed these and can attest to their solid...ness. There are also a lot of youtube videos showing how well they work alone, let alone together.

You need to harden up your home and business first. Alarms and cameras are only good for after they stole everything. Alarms to let you know that you've been robbed so you can get pissed off that you've been robbed and cameras to maybe see what they look like, but will not be caught.

Put longer screws into the door strikers. Get something like this for the door.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2K3IPE/

and a door striker like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10385-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/

For your home, while your sleeping, I would get something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7PVLK/

I use these and like them very much. Manufacturer claims they can withstand 800 lbs of force.

Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TLxrDbT1FX3XQ

Found it at the local hardware store but looks like it’s here on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULEKNKM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520215816&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ak+house+key&dpPl=1&dpID=31CY4ZShELL&ref=plSrch

Watch your pupperz since not only does it have a pistol grip BUT also a thumbhole stock.

Let me preface with saying I have never bought a Schlage Prefab Repin kit.

---

This one on Amazon looks good for the price.

It seems to have everything. There are few complaints in the reviews:

• The keys don't work (it is possible they used the wrong keyway)
  
• Lack of pins (You can buy more in the link below)
  
• If the key does not work or you want a different one a locksmith can make you one for few dollars, not a big deal.
  
  Schlage are a little bit more money. These are the pins I buy from CLK Supply. You can try their discount code RCLP2 and that is good for 20% off all pins most of the time.
  
  If you need any additional help feel free to ask!
  
  
  
  

Sure? Or one that has a strong magnet so you don't have to drill into your chassis. $4
Edit: oh I just now see you are referencing that other thread. Weird. Carry on.

Reinforcement lock or the ol' fashioned bar stop are prob best bets for an apartment. The screw holes will be hidden in the door frame so probably won't be noticed on inspection if/when you remove it. The bar is a classic...both only work if you remember to set them though.

This is the kit I got. As long as all of your locks/knobs are all schlage, you'll be good to go. There may be cheaper options with less pins, just make sure you get all the tools.

Just a word of advice, be careful opening it up, I opened it upside down and the pins went everywhere. Took a LONG time to sort them out since the size difference is extremely hard to tell.

Didn't know this was a thing, looks cool. I wonder how well it works though.

Found a few blanks on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/AK-47-House-Blank-Schlage-SC1/dp/B00ULE70TY

https://www.amazon.com/AK-47-Gun-Kwikset-House-Blank/dp/B00ULEKNKM

Idk if anyone has said this already, but try add-a-lock . It’s like $10 on Amazon.

When I bought my house I nearly spent hundreds to have it re-keyed... Then I found something like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/Prime-Line-Products-2402-Schlage-Re-Keying/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=asc_df_B008RIDQD0/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293006901278&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=861599774225677164&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001329&hvtargid=pla-320671640583&psc=1

$20... I think I spent $15. It was pretty easy, you just replace the Tumblr pins to the new code and bobs your uncle. Takes a few tries to get the hang of the little tool that holds everything together, but it's not too tough.

Looks like it's a pinning set, like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Q8SA2Q

Grab yourself one of these They work great. You can hide them in your bumper or under your car. I've always had them and ive never had a problem with them.

YES! secret bookcase would work.

http://www.amazon.com/Murphy-Door-FM-HINGEKIT-Hidden-System/dp/B00BHON2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451443414&sr=8-1&keywords=secret+bookcase+door

I don't know about Canadian law, but it's definitely an invasion of privacy. While you're trying to find out the legal side of it, pick up a portable door lock. You don't have to nail or screw it to anything and it will keep him out while you are inside.

https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC

Yeah, those picks he linked to are for padlocks. I have a set in my pick kit.

99.9% chance you can use a key from the classic Lucky Line skeleton key set and it'll work.

I installed a few of the Door Reinforcement Locks and they're amazing. We tested one on a remodel, we used sledge hammers in order to get in, but it wasn't what broke first, it was the hinges that gave... But it took a lot of time, enough time for someone at home to call the police, lock and load.

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-11126-Blocker-Anodize/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C3Y2DCYCAVSDCA023P28

Or get one of these. Cheap and effective. https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Reinforcement-Construction/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1493833190&sr=8-5&keywords=door+reinforcer

I just take the ignition key off and leave all the others in the car so no jangle. If that's not an option, I have a friend who uses a magnetic key box that you can attach to the undercarriage of your car.

+1. I have a kit for Schlage and a similar kit for Kwikset. Probably found something cheaper on eBay. You'll need a good pair of tweezers and a steady hand.

Once you pick this skill up, it's one less thing to pay a locksmith for. You can even do master systems so that one key opens multiple locks, but each lock has its own separate key.

There are other door locking mechanisms other than chain locks. Protect yourself and your baby.

Portable Door Lock Travel Lock AirBNB Lock School Lockdown Lock School Lockdown Lock Also for Security Home Apartment Living Hotel Motel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PTZF75B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JXmRDbRHQZGGR

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Master-Lock-42-in-Adjustable-Door-Security-Bar/3020161?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-google-_-lia-_-203-_-padlocks-_-3020161-_-0&store_code=2732&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7DtBRCLARIsAGCJWBoAGXQi2siZcp3yBMg9qjOjrUQvPDMbvCvilmUtUFtp3esjfCVB-GkaAnu6EALw_wcB

This barricade has an actual alarm on it:

https://www.collectionsetc.com/products/security-bar-doorknob-alarm/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_srch&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7DtBRCLARIsAGCJWBozkh6hCwWybZVuzOZ6JjC0h7OyNDZmjsd7nv-K0JzgLyd3O8yfSAgaAjB6EALw_wcB

I have no idea what is included in the expensive re-key kits, but I bought this kit for $10 and rekeyed all the locks on my house.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RIDQD0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Definitely cheaper than a locksmith.

A portable door lock might be a good alternative/backup method.

This is much better, pocket sized. https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504757134&sr=8-2&keywords=travel+lock+door

Offer to cover the daycare installing one of those frame locks up high on the door? Something like this;

https://www.amazon.ca/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Blocker-Nickel/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_75_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MRW5RMK2S4R6N767PWXD

I hate SmartKey locks because you can't create a master key. Learn how to rekey Kwikset or Slage keys and get a builder's kit on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-236-Builders-Keying-Kit/dp/B000NKHKS2/ for Kwikset) and learn to do it yourself. It's honestly really freakin' easy if you have some half-way steady hands. Give me a drill and I can have a lock off, rekeyed + master, and re-installed in 5 minutes.

But if you don't need/want a master key, smarkeys are way faster.

Good call on the thrift stores! I'll start visiting those in my area! I will bug you again with one last question! I found this on amazon, but I can't quite understand what exactly comes with the kit... i.e. does it come with some regular driver pins, or is it just the key pins: https://www.amazon.ca/Prime-Line-Products-2402-Schlage-Re-Keying/dp/B008RIDQD0

What type of locks are they? You can fin pin kits on Amazon to rekey about 6 locks.

http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-2402-Schlage-Re-Keying/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=sr_sp-btf_title_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1394331179&sr=8-6&keywords=schlage+key+kits

Here is a kit that i bought and if you take your time its not too bad.

Thank you so much! I found it here: https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Kwikset-2n1-Re-keying-Metal/dp/B000Q8SA2Q

I'm with you. I've used this kit from amazon for $8 to change all the locks on a house myself quite easily. They're really not as complex to change as you think.

For anyone who feels unsafe in a place where someone else has a key, get one of these 1, 2, 3. They only work while you're already inside your room/home/apartment, but make it so no key or lockpick will let someone in. Peace of mind when you sleep.


Practice using it if you get one in case of a fire or other quick-exit need.

I recently purchased a home and we updated all the locks so they have the same key. It was fairly simple. You can buy one of these kits, just make sure you get it for the right kind of lock. They are different depending on which brand of doorknob/deadbolt you have - there are only really Schlage and Kwikset options. The kit we bought is good for 6 locks - just keep in mind that each deadbolt and doorknob is a lock so potentially 2 per door.



I'm assuming this means you will have a different key for your electronic keypad lock but those may also be changeable.

As an aside, if you're somewhere between an entry-level and moderate handyman it's not too difficult to grab a lock repinning kit from Home Depot and just change the pins in the locks. They have kits for a few different brands. Amazon has the Schlage, Weiser, and Kwikset kits for a bit cheaper than HD.

It's what I'd do between tenants. Under $20 to repin up to six locks to use the keys included in the kit. The first lock I did took a good half-hour to get the hang of it, but after that it was under 10 minutes a lock.

Here, like this is the sort of thing. They do have them for different brands, they are called rekey kits not repinning kits.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008RIDQD0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654165&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=schlage+rekey+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=51BpdcPVczL&ref=plSrch

What about this or something like it?

In case anyone wants one. LERWAY 3.5 inch 170 degrees Wide Angle Peephole TFT LCD Digital Door Viewer Doorbell Security Camera Cam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANIXZZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_sQvrub11THNHC

Links:

Deadbolt Flip Guard

Door Armor

Defender Security Door Reinforcement Locks

I've had this and this in my Amazon shopping cart for months now. As soon as my wife and I find the house we want to buy, and move out of our rental, I'm purchasing both and installing them forthwith.

I purchased a kit on Amazon and did it myself. It wasn't too difficult. The kit I bought isn't available anymore. This looks similar: Prime-Line Products E 2402 Schlage Type C Re-Keying Kit, 5 Pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tWGBxbH4DT832

How old are you? Do you know what we are talking about? Here is one at walmart right now that I have on my car for $5. Another on Amazon.

At nearly any walmart there are MinuteKey or keyme stands that cost like $1-$3 dollars for key copies (that's for keys to open the outside of cars. for a copy of your key to start your car it just depends on your car for the price. I've had some that were $5 and some that were $99 but it's way cheaper than any tow or service to unlock the car at Roo) I just checked all of this is at the Walmarts around Manchester at the least and it takes literally 5 minutes to do this

I don't have one, but you can buy one on Amazon for only $3 or so, including shipping:

http://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371969337&sr=8-2&keywords=skeleton+key

I bought this from amazon and followed a YouTube video to rekey it myself.

I bought a new house and didn’t want to spend $200 bucks to get my locks rekeyed. Payed $20 bucks and spent 1.5 hours on 3 locks, resulted in 3 same keys and opened all 3 locks.

I need to [TREAT MY-SELF] (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003WXGLS2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=19XIKAS79AJYG&coliid=ILQWIYKWT6A5R) to this. It's a magnetic key holder that I can place under my car. Not a true necessity but just in case clumsy me loses my keys, I always know where the other pair is.

dat dewy duchovny

Thanks for the contest!

Even if you're in the right, be prepared for them to try anyways.

https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y

I recommend one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003WXGLS2/ref=pd_aw_fbt_229_img_2/187-9808092-2397207?ie=UTF8&refRID=11VFNCJSNYV73Z29EKMB

It's big enough to hold about a dozen j's or a one hitter or any thing small. Can hide it deep in your engine bay and It's magnetic so will go almost any where.

they still make skeleton keys just like this, but with less rust.

You could get something like this: Calslock Portable Door & Travel Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMPFCNC/

Or Google "travel door lock." There's another removable block called a DoorJammer, and MasterLock makes something too. If nothing else I'd put a little alarm or bells or something on doors. And listen to your dogs :) We put a ladder in front of the door when we go to bed. It makes a lot of noise when it falls over and it's hard to move it from outside once it's fallen over, because you can't open the door all the way.

It'd be best to change locks but you should have another type of barricade or alert anyway in case someone defeats the lock or gets access to your keys.

direct u/short_comedy spam-bypassing link

Please report this post and user u/short_comedy for violating the rules for personal profit.

chain locks are useless, get something like this or the ones like they use in hotels that have the u bar and the nob (no idea what they are called) and make sure it is amputee dwarf bondage porn i mean if you are going to go for it go for broke man...

Well for this project I used a heavy duty stainless steel piano hinge, but I recently discovered this:
Hidden door Hinge System
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHON2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hcLGub17TAD3C
Which I found while browsing reddit BTW.
I think that if I ever going to do another hidden door I will use it.

I hide my key in a secret cubbie. I pretend like I am tying a shoe in case anyone is looking.

Edit: this

Bring one of these, just for fun.

(I know it won't solve the *real* problem though)

​

https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC

I don’t think I got them through Amazon but these seem to be the exact same ones I used.

Murphy Door ID.HINGEKIT Fmhd Pivot Hinge System W/New Ball Lock Pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHON2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TIuRCbTSXP4VP

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y

I got one of these for a door that is very similar to what you describe. it is way below the glass so it would be impossible to reach and unhinge from the outside. We only use it when we are on the inside, otherwise you cant get in.

A lot of the folks here have given some great advice. I wanted to add my perspective:

Barricading yourself and calling the cops was the right thing to do. If anything, I would make sure my bedroom door has good locks, either a deadbolt or door reinforcement lock of some kind (https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y)

​

I have a gun in a quick-access safe in my master bedroom, but if the alarm ever goes off, my wife and I know that the first step is to lock/barricade the master bed room (I have deadbolts installed on the door), hit the panic button/call the cops, and then get the firearm ready as last resort.

​

probably these

You too can get into most RVs and file cabinets with this common key!

KIK or on Amazon

Rim

Mortice

They're all six-pin locks, but only keyed with five pins. Adding the sixth pin to the lock yourself will give you some practice gutting and reassembling a core. Might even cause you to learn to shim since you won't have a key that operates the sixth pin.

These little kits have everything you need for rekeying as a beginner. Also here and here.

Do you know about these? You can rekey locks yourself for much less than the cost of a locksmith or new locks.

I got this underneath my car somewhere with a key and a $20 in it.

• Tuck them into the skinsuit
  
  
• Put keys in a magnetic box attached to the underside of your car.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WXGLS2/
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTOUG0/

Get a re-key kit... $10. Home Depot has them too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_-zo5xbWDX5NFC

Maybe this?

Depending on the model of lock you have, you can also rekey them yourself. I've got this sitting in a drawer right now, waiting for all the contractors to finish work on our new place:
https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-2402-Re-Keying-Kit-Rekeying/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525798830&sr=sr-1&keywords=schlage+rekey+kit

Why not try to practice self control and talk to them like an adult first, and reserve losing your shit if it continues after the talk?

It's going to be tough to ask children to be quiet in the middle of the afternoon. It may be best just to move out.

Here are a few options to keep the kids out of your room in the meantime:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUX8I/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFN2NKW/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lNFJt10w1E

Hey OP, you could always try some of these options:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EQE0H8ACCWD52VARSZZ3


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AFN2NKW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500976997&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Travelers+Security+Lock+Llc.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M30SQGA/ref=pd_aw_vtph_60_lp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6W2DET3YWFD5C73655CB


If you're the type that always carries a decent multi-tool, then here's something you could do if you really needed it:


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-lNFJt10w1E

Hidden door Hinge System by Murphy Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BHON2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P1lHAb8HRD67G

You can have one built for you.

Or you can build one yourself.

Portable Door & Travel Lock

https://www.amazon.com/Rarelock-Stainless-Deadbolts-Installation-Convenient/dp/B01GQ8MCJQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1517518378&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=travel+door+security&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/DoorJammer-Portable-Security-Personal-Protection/dp/B00N95IVSQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1517518378&sr=8-7&keywords=travel+door+security

https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1517518378&sr=8-10&keywords=travel+door+security

https://www.amazon.com/Secure-Portable-Door-Safety-Lock/dp/B001IZ7RU2/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1517518378&sr=8-11&keywords=travel+door+security

https://www.amazon.com/Secure-Portable-Door-Safety-Lock/dp/B001IZ7RU2/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1517518378&sr=8-11&keywords=travel+door+security

https://www.amazon.com/Buddybar-10311-Door-Jammer/dp/B002BQ4VBU/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_0_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002BQ4VBU&pd_rd_r=8378NCB79XSENRB6VMKX&pd_rd_w=gCuON&pd_rd_wg=vwWjE&psc=1&refRID=8378NCB79XSENRB6VMKX

It's a lock for a regular door on a house. The bent part at the end goes in the hole on the jamb and you squeeze and slide the other part up to the door.

Edit: here

https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1501449592&sr=8-26&keywords=door+security+devices

https://www.ebay.com/i/352213107487?chn=ps
Also : https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC

I carry this in my pocket book at all times

https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC

https://www.amazon.com/AK-47-Gun-Kwikset-House-Blank/dp/B00ULEKNKM

$12.99

or

$2.25 with a minimum order quantity of 5

Found it here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ULEKNKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AYxWzb96TE60V

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0095VWJQI/ref=pb_pd_lutyp_gc_2_1?pi=SL500_SY115

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULEKNKM/ref=pd_aw_sim_236_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31CY4ZShELL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&psc=1&refRID=Z0FACT4AT5RT3EJYYBSH

These are the first ones I found but there are a ton more.

Nobody pissed in my Apple Jacks. You are just being overly dramatic. In any event, buy this:

$19.95 is a bargain so that you can "feel comfortable again": http://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC

Throw some 3-4" screws in the existing door hardware, add some sort of reinforcement kit, and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=door+lock&qid=1568094419&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Switch out the door screws, change the locks if you haven't already, and get a door reinforcement lock (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Door+lock+latch&qid=1563762853&s=gateway&sr=8-4). You'll have the same door and everything, with nothing super tactical or whatever added on, but your doors will be way more secure. You could also put on some door alarms that ring when the door opens, if you don't have a security system in place.

No locksmith needed, i use this:

Prime-Line E 2402 Re-Key A Lock Kit, Type "C", 5-Pin Tumbler Sets w/Pre-cut Keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6fFaAbT0PGWBZ

I own several rental properties and that's what I do every time new lease starts

1. I had the same problem so I got a key holder that is magnetic and sticks under your car so if you lock your keys in, you have a hidden spare. I found this one on Amazon.
   
   
2. Why wouldn't you just get AAA instead of calling a locksmith? I'm not sure how much a locksmith costs but I bet AAA is way cheaper as you only pay for the membership once a year and they'll come unlock your car as frequently as needed.

Bad solution to a solved problem.

We have two of these in our house for home defense, one for a downstairs office and one for the bedroom, and might get more. It's 1/3 of the price, takes <1 second to set, and can withstand 800lbs of force (not including the extra strength from the doorknob).

I honestly recommend anyone get one. We have firearms to defend ourselves, but, it saves a lot of moral and legal problems to just stop them from getting to us in the first place while we wait for the cops.

Almost all of these keys are the same. You just need a skeleton key. These can be found very cheaply. Don't call a locksmith and waste your money.

If you have an existing "turn to open" type lock that latches into a slot in the door-frame, you can replace the slot with one of these. It has a solenoid that locks shut and only opens when you send 12v into the solenoid. You keep the door itself permanently locked (with the existing key) and only open the slot using the solenoid. If it's similar to the slot already in your door-frame, there should be minimal damage to the frame, just a few screw holes that you can easily cover up with wood-filler when you leave. Then wire up your Pi to send 12v via a relay to the solenoid (get a pre-built relay module if you're unsure about how to wire a relay to the Pi).


There's also a version that's normally open, and locks itself when you send 12v to the solenoid. Its linked on the same product page.

I use one of these for doors
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nh11BbG5ZYGCJ

It's just a 1/8th drill bit to prep the frame, then impact drive the 3" suckers in.

You could also spring for door armor which is a metal plate that sits between the door and frame that stops the frame from breaking if someone's kicking the door.

For an apartment, I'm assuming a single point of entry (maybe a sliding door if on the ground floor, but those suck to secure)

https://smile.amazon.com/Safe-Homes-International-55724-Reinforcer/dp/B018HFW6WE/ref=pd_sim_60_18?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=50B4MB1DZ0FEMJEE90KD

https://smile.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Reinforcement-Construction/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=50B4MB1DZ0FEMJEE90KD

https://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I these ones should do the trick. Worst case, a bit of filing where the key rubs.

Good point! This is the only thing I would be concerned with, but otherwise mixing brands should be fine. I had all Schlage dumb locks already, so I picked the Schlage Connect and rekeyed it and all the dumb locks to the same Schlage key. There is some overlap with certain manufacturers, but for the most part each use a different key shape that is incompatible with the others.

Admittedly it was a bit frustrating with the first lock, but I rekeyed everything myself using this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RIDQD0. Saved some cash as compared to having a locksmith do it and learned a new skill that may come in handy in the future.

NTA, but I doubt it would solve the problem since they would just remove the lock. I would at least use something that wasn't a doorknob lock.

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Replaces-Addalock-Compatible-Apartment/dp/B07LCDPP7T

https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y

The real problem is that they could easily escalate things to removing your door entirely or something. That's more of an issue than who's the asshole.

2nd this. Although could just use a key fob or the nfc chip in the phone, or in your schools id badge. I'm a big fan of rfid for access control. I used something like this: UHPPOTE Electric Strike Fail Secure NO Mode Lock a Part For Access Control Wood Metal Door https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V45GWTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.z2zybSC6GNBH
With an hid reader and programmed it to accept my school's id badge. Badge in and push the door open. Now I'm renting though and I don't really like any of the rfid dead bolts I've seen on the market, so no current smart locks for me.

get a door hardening kit. You want one that will replace the hinge screws with atleast 3in long screws, a metal bracket to wrap around the door where your locks are to prevent splitting, and a long metal bar on the frame of the door with long screws. Here's what i put on my doors:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_dNu5xbKJXZD15

You can also replace all your locks with higher security locks, don't get electronic locks as they have a bad history. If you want to make things a big pain in the ass for an intruder replace deadbolts with double cylinder deadbolts. That forces anyone who breaks in to go out the same way they came in as they cant unlock your doors. Came in a window? They're going back out the window.

Edit: there is also this, which looks pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_PZu5xb0DVAH4F

But really, a properly hardened door will be very hard to kick in and will give you plenty of time to react.

This is my go to for all exterior doors, would be difficult to defeat. There is no opening the door if this is latched vs th chain/u style.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D2K367Y?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

As a temp alternative I also have an addalock:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

I have my doorbird connected to an electric door strike. I am using the doorbird's relay to click a button on an access controller to release the electric strike.

On the Doorbird the relay you can set it up as NC or NO.

You can use the the doorbird to open the electric strike directly.

There is a doorbird with builtin keypad.

Keypad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGN1FL6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_cO6YCb8ZPYT64

Electric strike - fail secure (No power = strike is locked
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V45GWTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZT6YCb67H4592

I had to make this exact choice when moving into my home recently. I ended up using door armor for the side garage door but haven’t yet installed the kit on the front door which will require some serious planing of the surfaces. I regret not installing it yet because my front door is literally the weakest point of our house.

We currently use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bUOPBb062MTHT at when we are home but it’s a hassle.

Perimeter hardening is often the most effective use of funds when starting out with home defense. By making it harder to get in, you will deter some criminals and give yourself additional warning time for those who continue their attempt to enter.

The most common point of forced entry is through an exterior door. Residential doors are often only held in by a dead bolt and strike plate that has 1/2 inch screws that only sinks into the soft wood of the door's trim. It's trivial for most people to kick in this door and fracture the wood trim and allow the door to swing open. To combat this, get a Door Jamb Reinforcement kit (other kits available at hardware stores, more expensive kits available that provide more protection). This kit consists of a metal plate and 3 inch screws that will distribute the force and sink into the strong wooden studs beyond your door frame, making it much stronger. Get some 3 inch screws to replace your hinge screws, which typically have the same 1/2 inch screws holding it to your door frame.

Other devices are available to help prevent forced entry while you are home. These should be used in addition to a deadbolt and door jamb reinforcement hardware:

• Adjustable security bar
  
• Reinforcement lock
  
• Sliding Door Lock
  
• Wooden dowel placed in the floor track of a sliding door or in a window to prevent it from opening
  
• Hinge Security Pins
  
  If you are concerned about lock attacks (bumping, picking), consider a high end deadbolt from a manufacturer like Abloy or Medeco from Security Snobs. These locks do not have the same vulnerabilities as typical pin and tumbler keyways found in most residential deadbolts. In addition, the key blanks are restricted, which means that they can't easily duplicate your key at a shop or create one from a blank.
  
  The second most common point of entry is through a first story window. Window security film can be installed by a professional or by the homeowner to increase the amount of time it takes to break through a window.
  
  If you have a side or back yard gate, remember to lock it.
  
  Trim down any large bushes or shrubs that conceal windows or entries. Burglars could use these areas to hide while they break in or wait for you to leave. These should be no higher than knee or waist level. If you want to have large bushes, consider one with thorns that would make it difficult to hide near.
  
  If you have the budget, get a monitored alarm. Either professionally installed (ADT, etc.) or self installed (SimpliSafe, Scout, Abode, etc.)
  
  I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

Get a front door that doesnt have a window, or has a very small window. You can also get a door with a steel core and no windows for added security.

​

If you have any first floor windows, plant thorny bushes in front of them and keep them at window height to discourage entry through a window. Yes someone can still get over a thorny bush, but its going to create an additional time and inconvenience for them when breaking in, as compared to a non-thorny bush, or a window with no bush at all. The point of all of this and the following is just to increase the time it will take for a successful entry, burglars arent (too) stupid, and will pick softer targets than you that they think they can get in, and get out of quickly. Their ideal home is one where no one is home, the entry is easy, and they can grab items of value and get out in under 4 minutes. If the door takes 6 minutes to kick down, its not going to work. If they can't bump the lock, or cut through glass on the door to unlock from the inside, its not going to work. If they can't quite reach the window with their cutting tool because of the thorny bush, and they have to cover it with a jacket and awkwardly climb over, its not going to work. You want them to be forced to make noise to enter, while slowing their time to enter. Noise can alert neighbors if you're not home, and if you are home it can give you time to chamber a round in your rifle, turn the optic on, put on your electronic ear protection etc. That way you can have fun instead of quickly grabbing your pistol off the nightstand because its the only gun you keep in condition 1/0. You want time to prepare, and you want to know they're coming. Everything below is centered around slowing down thieves and home invaders and making their entry louder.

​

Consider the following products.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GWF2R70/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Installed around the door frame this steel lining makes it EXTREMELY difficult to kick down or batter down a locked door, and also isn't visible.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZD8S8G/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3XQ9YU/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

If you don't have a very secure door lock, you may consider one of these two products as they prevent burglars from "lock bumping," which is a common lock-picking technique for people who have the typical door locks that you can buy at home depot etc. and aren't very secure.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3FJQSA/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Another way to combat lock-bumping is to buy a very secure door lock like a medeco, the keys required to lock bump a medeco are far rarer than those to bump a home depot lock, and most burglars simply don't have them.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/?ref=idea_lv_dp_ov_d

Last but not least a metal door re-enforcer can stop a door from being kicked in if the steel frame and lock are defeated, but I think this product is overkill if you already have a steel frame and high quality lock.

​

Also consider a gun in case some does manage to get past all of this. However, despite being a gun owner, I don't really think owning one is necessary, as it is a last resort. Most forced entry is done through the door or windows, once you secure those, you simply need to be vigilant when entering and exiting your house. Have a camera or peep-hole to see who's there before you open the door, if you can't see them or they don't answer, don't open the door. Most home invasions depend on the home owner opening the door and allowing entry or upon someone kicking the door lock in. While most burglars are dependent on lock-picking, broken windows, or entry through windows. A burglar will run if they think someone is home or that someone might spot/hear them. A home invader is hoping someone is home

​

When coming home, don't unlock your car doors until the garage is closed and be vigilant for someone on foot following you in as you park. When departing the home do the opposite. Keep the door to your house from your garage locked as well.

​

Don't display wealth or possessions outside of the home. Some people think those signs that say Secured by .45 or whatever with a gun depicted on them scare burglars. But really all it says is that "when I'm not home there are probably guns here for you to steal." Guns, Jewelry, Cash, and to a lesser extent electronics are going to be targets for burglars, and signs like that advertise that at least one of those things will be inside to be worth stealing.