Since you didn't tell us which exact MicroCenter location you've got, I am not able to maybe suggest a few more parts to get from them locally. Some parts also may be out of stock.

But I decided to go a bunch lower in terms of budget compared to /u/Lolmuhhhhhhh 's great suggestion.

CS:GO / LoL are not demanding games at all and even this system is "overkill" for it, but hey. It's a very good system.

---

I'll provide you with my standard list of videos to help you understand why I suggest these parts.

I'll also give you a couple of great guides to help you build the PC.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Micro Center (combo)
Motherboard | MSI B150M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $30.00 @ Micro Center (combo)
Memory | G.Skill Aegis 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $30.98 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $37.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.99 @ Micro Center
Video Card | Zotac GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Amazon
Case | Silverstone PS08B (Black) MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $39.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $65.98 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | $85.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Acer G237HLbi 60Hz 23.0" Monitor | $99.99 @ Micro Center
Cable| HDMI to HDMI (10 feet)| $6.50 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Adesso EasyTouch135 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $24.91 @ Amazon
Mouse | SteelSeries Rival 100 Wired Optical Mouse | $32.90 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes and discounts | No rebates!
| Total | $863.20
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

---

####Learn about cool technology in only a couple minutes!

---

What is overclocking?: Here - 2:32 minutes.

What is the difference between i3, i5 & i7?: Here - 4:32 ◄ Important!
What is hyperthreading?: Here - 4:47
What is turbo boost?: Here - 4:05
CPU shopping guide: Here - 5:01 ◄ Important!
GPU shopping guide: Here - 4:11 ◄ Important!
How many cores do I need for gaming?: Here - 8:18 ◄ Important!
What is a motherboard?: Here - 4:46
Which motherboard is the best to buy?: Here - 10:07
DDR3 vs DDR4 speeds: Here - 8:01
What are benchmarks?: Here - 5:21
Pre-built vs building your own?: Here - 6:04
Optical vs laser mouse: Here - 2:10
SSD vs HDD: Here - 4:05
What is resolution?: Here - 5:22 ◄ Important!
Different panel types: Here - 2:29 ◄ Important!
Monitor refresh-rate: Here - 5:46
What is G-sync?: Here - 5:52
What is Shadowplay?: Here - 3:59
Case air pressure: Here - 5:21
Case fan orientation: Here - 3:42
What is a NAS?: Here - 5:06
What PSU to buy?: Here - 5:12 ◄ Important!
What does 80+ mean?: Here - 3:02

Likely that TechQuickie got even more video's that you can have a look at to get answers. It's a great YouTube channel for easy, quickly explained questions about PC tech.


---

####Guides

---

Now before you have a look at all these guides. The best guide in most cases will always be your MANUAL. Some manuals are garbage, but most of them are more than good enough to be able to help figure out most problems.

How to build an Intel 115x socket PC?
This is my personal favorite because it goes in depth, but still keeps the video relatively short.
It also got great camera work so you are able to follow all the steps very well.
I would suggest to install the aftermarket CPU cooler right away, then you don't have to clean the thermal paste.
I decided to skip the start of the video. The reason being that the video is posted on 17th of May 2013, he gives the rationale of his selected parts at the start. This is a very long time ago, so the parts are very old, so no need to hear this out. But building a PC is still pretty much the same. No drastic changes.
There are a lot of different build guides on the internet, but I really like this one. It's easy to follow.

How to install a 115x CPU?
Very simple and easy to follow guide again.
How to install thermal compound?
The temperature difference between the best and the "worst" thermal compound is a couple degrees Celsius. The temperature difference between applying thermal compound one way or an other.. is 0 degrees.
Be careful though! The only way that the temperature will rise is when you don't put enough. So it needs to have enough, but too much can cause problems as well. So don't go overkill either!
Thermal compound helps with the contact of the cooler + the CPU. They both have microscopically small gaps, which the thermal compound fills up to let the heat get too the heatsink.
How to install Windows 8(.1) or 10 from an USB drive?
You have to download "media creation tool" which is located at the bottom of the page (blue button). Run that program with a 4GB+ USB flash drive plugged into a PC. Then follow the simple steps and the program will make the USB drive bootable. After that all you have to do is build the PC and boot from that USB drive to install Windows.
How to set up your SSD & HDD?
This video is another older video, but it works pretty much the same in Win 8/10.
How to use Ninite?
This video explains it very well, as well as their recommendations. For security I advise to only get Avira (if you don't mind to get an add every day; if you do mind - just use Microsoft Defender) & Malwarebytes. If you want to pay for an anti-virus; Webroot! Light weight; very high detection rate.

#####Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.
  
  Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > This does require you to have a lit room
  
  This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Controller tracking 8/10
  
  I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > You will notice some black smear
  
  I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > Colors are also very vibrant
  
  I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me
  
  Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.
  
  Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > The damn nose flaps.
  
  I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > They are comfortable and easy to position.
  
  I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.
  
  --------------------------------------
  
  > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras
  
  Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.
  
  I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.

> do need a wireless network adapter.

Choosing a wireless adapter with Linux that functions well entirely relies on driver support for the wireless chipset more than the brand or model on the box.

Atheros chipset based wireless adapters are more often than not the best option available. Locating one can be challenging but they are available. the most modern atheros wireless driver for Linux is the ath10k Linux driver. Researching this module should reveal many options.

The wireless adapters available may not all be new but there are options for wireless cards that use that driver specifically

>Do I need amd hardware?

No

>Would intel be the way to go?

That has been mine and many others experience.

As mentioned previously Ryzen cpu's having severe hardware faults that can only be fixed by replacing the cpu.

This more recent issue with Ryzen based motherboards not yet being fully supported also solidifies Intel as the best available choice between brands.

Someone I helped this past weekend couldn't get thermal management drivers for his Ryzen motherboard to function properly. While some of the challenges are entirely as a result of experience anyone with similar amounts of experience could expeirence similar results from new amd based pc hardware.


>Forgive me for my lack of understanding, but why two harddrives? What does the sata SSD drive do?

SSD hard disks use NAND flash memory instead of spinning mechanical platters to store data and ssd's as a result are quite a bit faster with data throughout and responsiveness. Latency response times are significantly lower for SSD's to respond to data read and write requests however the total available storage space is also significantly lower as a result.

With the reduced storage space having a second mechanical disk with good performance and storage space is still beneficial.

Typically if your careful about where you install software having a 512 GB ssd you should never fill it to capacity running an OS install.

>Does the motherboard support an extra harddrive?

Yes absolutely. That motherboard has support for several hard disks and dual M.2 SSD drive expansion slots. M.2 SSD disks are the newest SSD form factor and the data transfer speeds they can offer are astounding however the cost per gigabyte is also significantly more.

>I'd like to hook up some sort of webcam and microphone. Do you have any thoughts on the best way of acquiring such? I've only ever used inbuilt systems in laptops.

I have an older model Microsoft Lifecam Cinema webcam that does have a microphone and also has working native open source Linux drivers. Newer webcams may be nicer and easier to locate such as a Logitech C930 but i'm unaware if native Linux driver support is available.

>It'd be really cool to have two monitors for my computer. Woud that motherboard support such?

That Asus motherboard can run up to three monitors using different display connectors with just the onboard video provided by the Intel CPU.

The EVGA videocard supports running four displays with proper connectors. I have three monitors on my pc with an nvidia evga 1070 graphics card using displayport to HDMI adapters easily located from amazon

The monitors I use are Acer H236HL models that offer very nice slim bezels and IPS LCD panels and support HDMI connections. These monitors are an older model acer however for the cost they are a fantastic economical option of you only require 1080p resolution. Here's a couple Linus Tech Tips reviews on these monitors.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXX0cCWWDsU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODGn3I9BIAo

When I got this cable, it came wrapped in bacon, which I thought was pretty weird, but shrugged it off, slid off my recliner into my Rascal, scooted from the living room to the kitchenette, and started cooking my bacon-wrapping.

As the smell of delicious pork back filled my double-wide, I turned around to look again at the box the cable came in.

Could this be? Yes! It was a "3 wolves barking at the moon shirt" and even better, it fit me perfectly (I wear an XXXXL).

So I yumplugged (get it, yum because of the bacon?) the crappy coax and component cables from my TV, and slapped in the HDMI golden cable between the visio and the blu-ray.

I was completely unprepared for what would turn out to be the best day ever.

I dusted off my....oh who am I kidding...I was already watching my "Mama's Family: season 1" Blu Ray (disc one). The magic began...

Once Vicki Lawrence appeared on screen, she broke character AND the fourth wall. She, and the rest of the cast jumped OUT of my TV, and performed the episode on my living room floor!!!!

Screw 1080P! This is way better. I thought to myself that having a 12" real-life "mama's family" cast was awesome. I wondered what would happen if I had a bigger TV...

Or better yet, used this cable to plug it into that giant TV screen they have at Cowboys Stadium!

Anyway, I was in for a further treat when I was watching a Betty White episode. Oh MAN!!! Could life get better?

I spoke too soon...

After enjoying some drinks with the mini-cast of "Mama's family" (my own mama left me all her Hooch in the will), we threw on the TV. I turned it on to family guy, and the same thing happened.

I was able to punch that Jesus-hating Peter Griffin and that smart-assed dog in their sacrilegious faces. Mini-Betty White even did a pile driver to Stewie.

MacGyver came on, and we all were in 7th heaven (and when 7th Heaven came on, it was EVEN Better).

I could go on and on about my day, but i'm gonna stop here. BUY THIS CABLE.

It could easily be the best $2594.75 you ever spend...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Audio-Ethernet-Connection/product-reviews/B003CT2A6I/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.

All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.

N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).

Hardware:

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $36
  
• Samsung EVO 32GB Class 10 Micro SDHC - $11
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - $10
  
• Addicore Raspberry Pi Heatsink Set - $5
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 3 Feet - $5
  
• Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - $8
  
  
  Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
  
  Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
  
  I like:
  
  
• 8BITDO NES30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller - $49 (x4).
  
  When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
  
  Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
  
  
  In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.

Man I totally agree. Oculus needs to get their crap together.

So real quick. I have experimented a lot.... Here is what is working for me:

So I bought the inatek KTU3FR-502I pci-express card to go along with Asus Maxiumus VI Formula motherboard. Use the default windows drivers that install when the card is put into the system. DO NOT USE THE latest drivers until you test it first with the defaults. I had nothing but issues with the latest until going back to the windows drivers and now it's much better. Oculus will give a warning about not having the latest drivers just ignore it.

Then I switched to 2 of these cards just as an experiment.

I also have tried 2 of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with success. For this card you need a PCI-Express x4 slot to install it. I have two of these working just great with the default drivers. I have just installed them today and need to test more to make sure no issues crop up but so far everything is just working with no disconnects. The idea behind this USB 3.1 card versus the USB 3.0 card is that USB 3.1 is 10 Gbps versus USB 3.0's 5 Gbps. The USB 3.0 5Gbps is also being shared among multiple ports on your motherboard so taking away from the total power and bandwidth output. So now with the ORICO usb 3.1 cards I have 2 sensors plugged into one card and 1 sensor and the HMD plugged into the other card. Again currently I am using the default windows drivers and everything seems great. If I start getting disconnects I will try their latest drivers.

The idea behind these add-on USB cards is to make sure you are getting adequate power through the USB ports and eliminating cheaply implemented motherboard ports that often have severe bandwidth limitation since motherboard USB ports all tend to share the same bandwidth.

2 Sensors are attached to the ORICO add-on card with CableCreation Gold (Long 16FT) Super Speed USB 3.0 Active Extension Cables

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

as far as I can tell these are the same thing as: Monoprice 109279 that are recommended on the wiki. One of these two is in the FRONT RIGHT of my room and the other is in the LEFT REAR.
The third sensor is not using an extension and is attached the ORICO card USB 3.1 port and is in the FRONT LEFT corner of my room.

The HMD is also attached to one of the ORICO USB 3.1 ports with a AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 9.8 Feet (3.0 Meters)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and to extend the HMD HDMI cable I am using Ultra Clarity Cables HDMI Extension Cable 10 FT Ultra Clarity 4K HDMI Extender 2.0 with Ethernet ( 10 FEET ) M / F Port Saver Cables Braided Cord - Support 3D & Audio Return Channel - Latest Version.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So sorry for the long post but I wanted to share my experience and what works for me. Hopefully it will work for you.

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

I'd strongly recommend against that AV2HDMI unit simply because you really want to step past composite video in your video signal game whenever possible. Composite video is prone to a few issues (rainbow artefacts due to poor comb filters, smearing) that hampers video quality simply from the way the signal works (color and grayscale information being sent through the same cable and needs to be sorted out by the receiving device).

For systems that can do component, I've seen this being recommended:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6

It reportedly doesn't scale the video signal or alter it in any meaningful way, only converts it to digital. I have not however used it myself.

You can get component cables for the PS2, Xbox and also technically for the Gamecube, except that cable is exceedingly rare and expensive. Instead I'd recommend looking at an early generation Wii with Gamecube support. For the Wii there is plenty of choice for component cables, as well as different hdmi adapters.

The SNES can do RGB without modding, however the model and revision of the unit will affect quality somewhat. Check this video if interested:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1k2HVB9S8CA&index=4&list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

For the NES, in it's stock form composite is the best you're gonna get (unless you get a fancy Japan import that does s-video). If you're interested in modding, there are however both RGB and HDMI mods out now:
http://retrorgb.com/nesrgb.html

If you want to get one box that "does it all", the XRGB Mini/Framemeister is probably your best bet, although it is some money and not perfect.
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/framemeister.html

In closing, I'd recommend checking out this site:
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
as well as checking out the videos on this channel to learn more:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRW6GIFybpOJbjU65T8eFVM
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTNBVisVMbSRlu45wgWo332Ke64e1o05m

I used to dabble a bit with this, playing my retro systems on an HD TV, in the end I went back to a CRT TV because of easy of use.

Edit:
Depending on what TV you have, one possible solution would simply be to connect your systems to the TV and then route the audio from the TV to the receiver. My old Sony LCD TV turned out to have a great comb filter (although a bit soft picture).

Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.

1. Take the TV off the mount. Go into the attic and assess the area directly above the fireplace. Should be easy to find based on the chimney, but if not (and there aren't any wires or duct work above it), drill a small hole in your ceiling right in the center of the fireplace, and poke a straightened wire coat hanger into it. This will penetrate the insulation and give you a good point of reference.
   
   
2. Buy and install a combo recessed plug and cable plate. If there's not much room behind the drywall, you can get shallower versions.
   
   
3. Run electrical power (12/2 Romex is sufficient for a flat screen) and a single long HDMI cable to your box. Wiring sounds difficult, but with a fish tape and a paddle bit, it's actually not that bad. DIY Network has a writeup here. If you're unsure of local code, or don't want to mess with electricity, you could run the power cable to the box, and then have a local electrician tap into an existing line with capacity (this should be much cheaper than having them do the whole job).
   
   
4. Run the other end of the HDMI cable to wherever you want your source boxes to be. Ours are in our coat closet. Use either an A/V switching receiver or an HDMI switch to control the source. Yes, modern TV's have multiple HDMI ports on the back, but for a clean and easy installation, doing 1 cable to the TV, and then switching at the sources is a much better solution than running a new cable through the attic for each device.
   
   Good luck.

People in this sub don't think 3.5mm cables make much difference (we consider a lot of 'features' in a cable to be snake oil), but obviously aesthetics and basic functionality are awesome. Put simply, a lot of people are anti-AudioQuest.

Now, the cables you made look sick, and as long as they're not crazy expensive, people would love to buy one. I know some people would like cables with integrated mics as well.

I don't have much experience with parts, but Philmore and Neutrik make some nice components. I'm sure wherever you source your parts currently do a fine job with audio (as long as they have them!).

EDIT: I don't know if I should bother giving you advice since you do an amazing job as is, but having cables that would pair well with existing headphones with removable cables would help. V-Moda, Sennheiser Momentum, ATH-M50x's would be killer products to target. Also, if you have any experience with making headphone pads, that would be a good market too.

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

• 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)
  
  
• 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)
  
  
• 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)
  
  
• Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.
  
  
• Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)
  
  After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
  
  Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  

I'm using these....

HMDI

USB

Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

Just realized your username, but in general, there are lot of people that think the LGP does something "magical". There are a lot of different ways to improve lag. It just comes down to breaking down all the processes.

• Analog to Digital Conversion
  
  >You can use an external ADC like an LGP, Shuttle, or others (1, 2). Many times, the internal ADC built into the LCD screen is really poor. This the big thing about using the Wii U to play Smash, because there is no analog involved when you use HDMI.
  
  
• Image Scaling
  
  >There are external scalers like XRGB's Framemeister, but it probably best to just let your display upscale your image. There are also devices (1, 2) that upscale and do the ADC together.
  
  
• Post Processing
  
  >This is strictly limited to setting your LCD screen to Game Mode and disabling all special video effects (120hz motion, image filtering, dynamic contrast, etc).
  
  A lot of people are using the LGP just because their gaming monitor doesn't have component input. What's interesting is, technically, any gaming LCD monitor with VGA already has an internal ADC chip. The simplest (and by that logic, the cheapest) solution for these types of monitors is to get a Component (YPbPr) to VGA (RGBHV) adapter and let the gaming monitor do the ADC.
  
  LGP is just the popular solution, but it's definitely overkill if we want to move to LCD gaming.

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

> The device needs to work on WiFi without Internet access.

I don't think you're going to get that—all devices capable of playing Plex (Chromecast, Roku, AppleTV, Amazon Firestick) all require internet access, as the device is directly communicating with your server. Read this from the Plex support docs:

>It's important to note that the Chromecast streams content directly from the Plex Media Server (or Cloud Sync).

>When you use a mobile device or browser to initiate a cast, the content does not go "through" that device and then to the Chromecast; you're free to disconnect or turn off the casting app at any time if you wish to do so and that won't affect the stream.

Best solution for you: get a cable that allows you to hook up your laptop to a TV.

If you have a Mac, one of these will do it, if you have a newer PC, it may have a HDMI port so all you'd need is a HDMI cable. If the laptop is older and only has a VGA output, you'd have to get something like this that is capable of converting the signal.

There's an $80 converter that Wacom officially said works, but I'm also currently looking to resolve this exact issue for my fiance and her laptop, and have found a POSSIBLE solution ( https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519980480&sr=1-8&keywords=USB-C+to+HDMI ), and just posted here asking if people think this solution would work. It's a lot cheaper solution, and when you invest that much into something, you want to save as much as you can after! Lol. If I hear back before I see a response here, I'll definitely let you know!

Fantastic, this is very helpful!! Regarding your monitor setup: what exactly is the DisplayPotI? I have two monitors, and I believe each can be connected either via HDMI or VGA, so I suppose either option would work. So I'm assuming I'm looking for a cable that goes USB-C to either HDMI or VGA? Ands also, since its two displays, I would need to use both USB-C ports on the MB, right? and I also need one available for charging. which means I wouldn't have one available to connect the hub? Or I could use one USB-C to HDMI adapter for one monitor, and HDMI (from hub) to HDMI I suppose. Well in any case, I think I've got enough good information to go off of with your recommendations and find something that meets my needs. As long as the hub can support my monitors and mouse (and preferably keyboard), and be as easy as plugging in one cable into the laptop, than it seems like a cheaper and equally as easy alternative to a dock. Thanks again!

Edit: So I found these, based on your suggestion. Different brands, but I'm thinking going with either:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079DM6VH8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B079DM6VH8&pd_rd_wg=lSUHl&pd_rd_r=H0VWS7K7YZYMZG9R9GXR&pd_rd_w=C5GGs

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076TJ7ZTH/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B076TJ7ZTH&pd_rd_wg=lSUHl&pd_rd_r=H0VWS7K7YZYMZG9R9GXR&pd_rd_w=C5GGs

for a hub. Not sure if one seems better than the other.

and then for the second monitor,

https://www.amazon.com/uni-Thunderbolt-Compatible-MacBook-Pixelbook/dp/B075V5JK36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526664882&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+-c+to+hdmi

I think this should work, and allow it so that all I need to do is connect the hub, just as easily as docking it I would think, to make it my desktop

Sorry, I guess I missed the HDR support part. You are correct that the HDMI port nees to be 2.2. to allow HDR images to display. Without it, you'd get a blank screen. the 790 does support 4K with HDCP2.2 and HDR. Again, depending on how into AQ you are, soundbars do a decent job but I just don't think it's worth spending $200-300 dollars more. The Sony display is very good. I have the X800D and it looks amazing in my bedroom with both normal and HDR programs (it was last year's model but I saved $300 by buying it. The differences in the new displays weren't that important to me). As long as you connect your soundbar into an HDMI 2.2 port you should be good to go. Also, make sure your HDMI cables are certified high speed (full 18Gbps) and that the enhanced HDR settings are set to auto on you display. You probably know all this already but I read so many comments from people having problems getting HDR to work because they miss these simple points. These are what I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499868918&sr=8-2&keywords=amazon+HDMI+certified+high+speed+cables
Hope this helps.

I have been battling this issue since release day of the Apple TV 4k...I have an LG 55" C7P...encountered screen flicker as well as issues not receiving 5.1 audio from the optical out of the TV to my SONOS 5.1 setup (but when ATV 4k was set to stereo, I would always get audio).

The LG native netflix app worked perfectly for me (audio, 4K, and HDR wise), but there are simply not enough native LG apps (HBO GO, etc).

I was using an amazon basics high speed HDMI cable seen here (as well as others rated as high speed and 4k/60p compatible):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

no matter what HDMI input - 1/2(ARC)/3/4 - the issue persisted...sometimes I would get audio for a while at 5.1 and then, bam just silence. The Trumotion settings to 0,0 mostly mitigated my flickering issues, but not entirely.

After purchasing Deadpool (4K with HDR and 5.1 audio) on iTunes and being forced to watch in stereo only last night...because 5.1 simply wouldn't take no matter what I did...

I finally called Apple today (11/11/17), and they advised me to take it into the store...long story short, I have a replacement I can pickup next week when it comes in, but left with my unit... The Apple guy suggested that I try a new HDMI cable 'for the Apple TV 4K'. I am very much aware that 'most' modern HDMI cables should be 'good enough'...BUT, this is a new Dolby Vision certified cable made by Belkin out recently:

http://www.belkin.com/us/AV10175-Belkin/p/P-AV10175/

https://www.apple.com/shop/product/HLL52ZM/A/belkin-ultra-high-speed-4k-hdmi-cable-2m

defined as Ultra High Speed HDMI, and supports true 4k resolutions up to 4096x2160 and bandwidth of up to 48 Gbps per Apple's site. Previous high speed cables are NOT Dolby Vision certified, and they are rated up to 18Gbps. Now 48Gbps is an enormous amount of data, and that's likely not the reason I am typing this post...BUT:

I am 30 mins in to testing (iTunes content as well as Dolby Vision on Netflix Apple TV 4K app)...and so far, this cable seems to have been the solution...what's frustrating is that the HDMI cable market is not easily navigable...UHD/4K/HDR/HFR, all of this adds to the confusion...IMHO apple should have bundled this cable for an extra 10USD to avoid various threads throughout the world wide web that discuss this issue...it's very much known, and I think everyone that is having the flicker, or stereo only audio problem with 30 USD to spare could save lots of heart burn, headache and time enjoying their TV 4k (instead of scouring forums for solutions) by picking up this cable.

YES - it's quite frustrating to have to drop another 30 dollars for this setup to work properly...but I've easily spent that in time scouring for solutions. [sigh]

This is what you need

-AudioQuest - Diamond 3.3' High-Speed HDMI Cable. Hands down the absolute best HDMI cable I have ever owned. It took my CRT TV and made it in so vivid that real life looks flat and washed out in comparison.

It supercharged the X. It's now called Johnny 5

The K is so high it cannot even be measured. If I pause my VHS and zoom in I get so close that it's like looking at an X-ray.
At Best Buy in the States it's only $1,095.99 Bargain

I'm English myself and I couldn't find a 1 metre cable so I thought 5 is better than 1 and paid a very reasonable £2,299.00. It comes with free delivery too. So Reasonable

As I see it, that rate (more like our refresh rate) is probably more closely related to the 10ms timescale mentioned in the first Wikipedia article I linked, reference 4 (paywall). The author of the Wikipedia article implies that subjects couldn't discern two colors as individual when they came after one-another on the order of 10ms. I unfortunately can't independently check this due to the paywall :(.

Anyhow, it seems like this ca. 10ms refresh rate is close to the speed at which we run into problems of image persistence (and thus diminishing returns in increasing framerates), though it seems like current science doesn't know where that limit is for certain. Either way, we can't even tell something happened if it was faster than 1/240th of a second (~5ms). Much faster is almost certainly overkill (ie. 2000fps I'd expect to be undifferentiable from 1000fps). I could certainly be wrong, though...

I wanted to make a quick comment about your earlier post:
>First, don't we have 144hz displays already? And people can certainly tell the difference between 80fps vs 144fps, right? Or else nobody would buy those monitors? Also, it was announced that James Cameron is going to have Avatar 2 in theaters at 120fps. I doubt people in Hollywood would put those extra frames in there for nothing

I think we've got to be careful of using the argument that, if people buy things, there must be a tangible benefit (besides enjoying it more because it's more expensive/fancier). There's plenty of silly stuff that people will spend money on. Often it's just for padding the spec sheet to add perceived value. For example, I'm of the opinion that there's no reason to have a phone with a display that's 8k since there's not really a perceptible difference - it's not physically possible to discern the pixels at a reasonable distance (~6 inches or so). That's not to say that it's impossible to make improvements to current phone displays (brighter, better viewing angles, etc.), just that 4k is a reasonable limit in necessary resolution, and 4k seems like overkill, or at least the threshold of it. An 8k display and a 4k display of identical quality in every other respect should thus be undifferentiable from one-another (except in their power consumption and memory/CPU usage...).

Big Picture is just an interface - a different way to view the same list of games. If you are running the Big Picture steam client beta, you can access Big Picture on your desktop PC by launching steam and clicking the Big Picture logo in the corner. So yes, you need a dedicated PC attached to your TV if you want to use Big Picture on your TV. The performance of the games accessed via the Big Picture interface should only vary if your tv or cabling has greater latency than your PC monitor.

Personally, I bought a 50 foot HDMI cable to connect my PC to my TV when they were in separate rooms and it worked great. This is the first I've heard of HDMI over ethernet - that sounds pretty cool! I suppose it's really only useful if you plan on exceeding 50 feet of HDMI or if you have in wall Ethernet cabling already installed in your home. No idea how it would effect latency.

As for controllers, if you are exceeding 10 feet, going through walls, etc, then you are going to have trouble with many bluetooth devices. This is a problem I was never able to fully solve, and now my PC is next to my TV so it's no longer an issue for me. When it was, I usually used my 360 controller as my primary input device while on the couch, as I typically only played on the couch when I wanted to kick back and mash some buttons. I'd recommend getting a wireless 360 controller receiver. Mine worked fine traveling about 20 feet through 2 walls with no noticeable performance issues.

Yeah, if you want a fuzzy picture you pleb.

HDMI cables just like Motherboards aren't something you go cheap with unless you're a moron that likes regret.

Get one of these and you wont regret it. Make sure to get the 4 year warranty unless you like feeling like a fucking tool.

Edit: Don't believe me? read this Q+A.

Question: We are talking 'digital' audio, correct? 1's and 0's ... not analogue audio that really benifits from serious quality??!!!!

Answer: This cable is such good quality that it supports the transferrence of 0's, 1's and 2's. Also it transports dark matter at beyond the speed of dark matter. So good in fact that CERN have scrapped the Hadron Collider and replaced it with one of these cables.

I bought a Vive Link Box to use as a signal/power booster in the middle, and it works great. This cured all my dropouts and audio glitches, as well as giving my system a Bluetooth radio.

This setup works great:

1. Vive Link Box
   
2. Vive Link Box Power Supply
   
3. 12 ft Power cable extension for Vive Link Box
   
4. 10 ft USB 3.0 extension cable
   
5. 10 ft Amazon Basics HDMI cable
   
6. Wire wrap to keep everything tidy
   
   Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
   
   I really wish there was a more elegant solution, but so far this works the best for me.

Very true, but Amazon also sells AmazonBasics HDMI cables which are super cheap, pretty good quality and HDMI 2.0 spec:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=twister_B016I3XG0S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I'm in high school as well and I'm planning to do something like this but I don't want to buy stuff I don't necessary need. Basically the idea to have the Mac on a stand while next to the monitor (which is on a stand as well) is connected to it. There are also speakers, and I'll be using an old keyboard that I have (usb) as well as a bluetooth mouse.

So far this is what I'm thinking:

Laptop stand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OOYECC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX1ZS5O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE

Basic speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GHY5F3K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SIJY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Thunderbolt to HDMI Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DRK2ZIK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ

And finally, the monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IA9FXAO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I haven't decided nor found a good stand for the monitor so if anyone can help that'd be great. Also, anybody else can comment, I was just seeing if this was buying too much or is there an easier way. I have a nrMBP mid 2012 13'' for reference.

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

Just upgraded to 4K from the previous ATV model and I tried to turn on HDR mode but Apple TV does it’s check and says it’s switching to SDR.

This is from Samsung website for the KU6290:

“Our HDR Premium technology displays HDR (High Dynamic Range) content from new generation Ultra HD Blu-ray, HDR streaming content, and HDR content available on Vidity compliant storage devices. Meets CTA HDR-compatible requirements.”

Can anyone help me debug this? Or has anyone ran into similar issues? I tried switching HDMI ports and I have a Monoprice HDMI cable that supports HDR.

TIA

OK.. so I'm not sure how far you want to go. I got these two items >>

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Extension-Ethernet/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169650&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+2-Pack+High+Speed+HDMI+Extension+Cable+with+Ethernet++++++++++++10+Feet+-+3D+and+4K+Resolution+Ready
and
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467169808&sr=8-1&keywords=Cable+Matters+SuperSpeed+USB+3.0+++++++++++++Type+A+Male+to+Female+Extension+Cable+in+Black+10+Feet

and that gets me an additional 10 feet, which is cool, and I never have any problems. I DID initially, but I rolled back the USB3 Inateck Windows 10 driver, and it's been really stable since then. Not even one hiccup. Good luck to you. Hope this helps.

I bought this 2-pack of HDMI extension cables from Amazon so that I could have one for my living room and my office - both have worked flawlessly for me at this point. I paired with the USB extension cables also linked below. Best of luck to you - it's nice to have longer cables.

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yIDxxbZPBDP76

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zHDxxbFWC62FN

I know what you meant, since I work in technical support, and deal with customers who don't know what to call things all the time. "I'm adapting DP to HDMI, but I'm not using an adapter, just a cable" is a common one. Most issues arise from misunderstanding that only dongles are adapters, which is why I have to break it down as 'I understand you're saying that you are not using an adapter, what port is the cable plugged into on the computer.... HDMI? .... and on the monitor? .... DP? .... Is there a box on the cable? ... No? ... I found your problem.'

A tiny dongle that has DP and HDMI plugs, that plugs into DP on the computer, and gives a plug for an HDMI to HDMI cable is an adapter. This is what you meant. Not linking a pic, since we're both in agreement these are adapters. Now, so you understand a tiny bit more...

A 2 meter long cable with a DP and HDMI plug on either end (like this) is ALSO an adapter. Sure, no additional breaks, but it adapts DP to HDMI. Would probably help OP with less additional parts to buy. It's still an adapter, and works effectively the same as the dongle, just a bit longer and with some gender variances on ends.

That VERY SAME cable would not work if plugged into a HDMI port on the computer, and DP on a monitor. It requires an active adapter, which does a little conversion from the older HDMI standard to the newer DP standard. In the instance of HDMI-DP, it can draw power from HDMI but still requires a housing for the chipset (like this). Most active adapters have a second cable that plugs into USB or the wall (like this).

Relevant

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)

I had endless problems with USB. Problem is it's different for everyone, many are fine with just their Motherboard's.


What I can tell you, if you want to run extension cables, the money no object solution (the only thing that go everything working acceptably for me) is the following:


Startech PEXUSB3S44V

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00HJZEA2S


Also, found many of the recommended cables hit and miss but Ugreen's have been excellent. Always use the shortest you can.


For 2m I have these on one sensor and one on the Rift itself:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE


I also have 1m and 3m version on my other two sensors.


To go with the 2m extension to the Rift (only if needed obvious) I used (again Ugreen):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2


Best of luck. Look forward to seeing you in there

Hey all, I made a post last week wherein I said I would elaborate on my gaming setup, so here it is. Disclaimer: This is by far not the most practical or pretty setup, but it works for us and we improve on it when we can.


This TV is normally mounted to the wall of my friend’s bedroom. Luckily the mount allows for the TV to be unhooked fairly easily, and we place it on the dining room table on top of a towel so that it won’t scratch the table. We also wedge some books under it to keep it balanced. The TV is connected to the Laptop with an HDMI cable and a USB-C adapter


The TV is set up as an additional display orientated vertically towards the DM. We drag the window of the photoshop file on that display and keep the workstation part on the first screen, so the DM can can keep info about the map hidden. Last session our DM had traps hidden on a different layer, so when we sprung them he would unhide them and reveal a pit trap or a plume of fire. We also keep a layer of black with a layer mask on areas of the dungeon we haven't explored yet, that way the DM can erase away and reveal those sections to us. Sometimes he will keep the opacity on 50% to mimic dim light or use grey for a thick fog.


We also place a sheet of clear plastic to cover the TV to protect it from our miniatures. The DM screen holds index cards with characters’ names and AC on them which we use for initiative.


If you have a question then just reply to this comment. I will try to answer as many as I can.

"A lot better "ones" and more "zeros" in this cable!

I especially like the "ones", they are more "one" than what you normally would see in other cables. Very cheap cables tend to run out of zeros after you have been using them for too loud audio or video with a lot of blue in them. Not this cable, it has an abundance of zeros in reserve. It will keep feeding those zeros to your TV or Receiver like it's no tomorrow!

Very good cable WITH FREE SHIPPING! "

Pretty much any review on this. Though I guess they may not be in the spirit of this thread as I doubt anyone would take this seriously.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542817607&sr=1-4&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi

I've been using two of those at home for about a year now. When I updated to my 1080ti on my new build I didn't want to add cost with new monitors right away (my older Samsung monitors are DVI/HDMI only but still work great as 2nd and 3rd monitors) and the 1080 only has one HDMI out which I was using for my Vive.

There are probably even cheaper options available, but they do work well. I've never had output or ripping issues with them and everything was recognized as it should be.

Easy plug and play.

Great! So, the Cable Matters USB3 10ft cable you linked seems to work for others.

But, the AmazonBasics HDMI 10ft cable sounds fishy in the reviews. A long with a bunch of other HDMI cables (10ft). One review said the 15ft cable worked great (amazonbasics).

Based on youtube, this one does not work at all.
Ultra Clarity Cables
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Someone is also saying it all depends on your motherboard?

My computer has a USB 3.0 port with the [battery]+ symbol, so I'm going to take a leap of faith and purchase the cables matter 10ft usb3 cable and the 10ft amazonbasics hdmi cable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/?th=1
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE/


Should arrive a day before my Odyssey+

Might be a bit short for your needs, but here is the ultra cheap option that works without issue for me (and can be done through Amazon, so easy returns if it doesn't work, cables state they do work so return is free).

I bought all these via Amazon UK, but can be bought from Amazon US

Amazon basics CL3 25feet HDMI

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484771738&sr=8-2&keywords=25foot+hdmi

10 Meter Active USB 2 extension cable (I just bought the cheapest one, I think any well reviewed one will do the job)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011RCUH1G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also bought 8m of 1/2inch braied cable sleeve.

This runs from the PC to the breakout box and I then just plug the breakout box in in the room I play my Vive.

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

You could get away with using an HDMI only device if you wanted to do that by converting the analog signal to a digital one. I have the Elgato HD 60, which only has the HDMI input so to capture something like Xbox 360 games, I have to convert the signal.

This is exactly what I bought for the 360 and have had great success with it. For composite you would need this as well.

I honestly don't know of any capture cards outside of the Blackmagic Intensity Shuttle that have legacy inputs and I've had no luck getting the Intensity Shuttle to capture any sub-480p resolutions. I would convert the analog signals to digital and buy a modern capture card.

nvidia took adaptive sync, added a frame buffer module to the monitor. that is it. the "benefits" are all but marketing bullshit (which you apparently are dumb enough to not only believe but fight others over)

>I really don't know why people try to sell these cards for their preferred company

LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL

the fact you ACTUALLY think gsync has REAL benefits over freesync is so insane, its almost not even funny. its almost to the point of sad. i almost pity you.

>There's no point in having a conversation with someone who doesn't bother to google basic facts and instantly downvotes a reply.
Have a good day, and I hope you learn to research things a bit more.

LOOOOOOOOL

you must be seriously mentally ill... you say i dont research, yet its you who doesnt research anything. reading the nvidia marketing page is not research...............

>Would Freesync even exist if it wasn't for that? Give Nvidia credit for the innovation and the better solution.

do you remember you said this? amd could never have created freesync without nvidia and nvidia deserves credit for inventing it.

the real knee slapper here is you said

>I guess that proprietary gsync hardware module does nothing.

and you didnt put /s. and in reality, its 100% true, it really does nothing. so you just argued against your self, using a valid point when you meant it sarcastically.


btw hey. i have some hdmi cables which are vastly superior to other hdmi cables.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

please buy them. they are actually better than any other hdmi cable on the market (like seriously). im seriously being serious. they are the highest quality hdmi cables, and are better than all other hdmi cables. just because you will never ever notice any difference between this and an $8 hdmi cable doesnt matter. they are scientifically better. (wait a second. its almost as if its the same thing with gsync. omg then your entire argument would be wrong. omg. mind blown). i know, it may take a little while for your brain to reboot after such a huge epiphany.

Good guy ehngage, providing true customer support. I hate how companies try to rip off customers like that. Best buy used to have a 1000 dollar hdmi cable, apparently they stopped carrying it bahahaha. Amazon carries it though! http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Look at it, in all of its glory.

I haven't had any issues, even on games that don't have native WMR support. My only issue was the short cable with the Odyssey, but I picked up these three items to extend the cable and stick them to my desk and it's working perfectly and now has the same range as my vive did.

Something I should add, the og vive with wireless and a das would cost less than a vive pro, but you'd have wireless, which improves immersion drastically. Not to add another thing for you to consider and further complicate your decision making process.

Well, I see you've sent the adapter back...still I'll offer my experience. I own a late-2011 MBP (2.4 GHz i7) running OS X Lion 10.7.4 as well, and I run it through to a monitor with this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM/ref=pd_cp_e_2

I have had no hiccups with that. I also have an Asus monitor. I feel it must be something to do with your adapter. When I connected them up my first time, it detected both automatically. So don't worry, you didn't just throw money away. You can get this to work. Make sure that the monitor is turned on (I'm positive you're smarter than that, but you would not believe some people who don't do this) and also that your computer is plugged into a power source. I will monitor this thread for your update. Good luck!

Sorry to spam you, but are these the same as the one you linked? amazon I prefer to order from amazon since I get free next day, but there’s a few low quality reviews up top and just wanted to double check. I know those could just be defective or just idiots using them but I want to make sure before I order them. I have until like 10pm tonight to order and I’lol still get them tomorrow. Gotta love that convenience

Purchase List:

Optoma HD27 1080p 3D DLP Home Theater Projector - amazing image quality and extremely bright - can almost watch the screen with all the lights on: https://www.amazon.com/Optoma-HD27-1080p-Theater-Projector/dp/B01JR7G672

Homegear 100” HD Motorized 16:9 Projector Screen W/ Remote Control - works very well, packaged and arrived in great condition: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J22TNRI

Yamaha RX-V379BL 5.1-Channel A/V Receiver with Bluetooth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V5VJ3TM

2 ELAC B6 Debut Series 6.5" L & R Speakers by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQ06

1 ELAC C5 Debut Series 5.25" Center Speaker by Andrew Jones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GSEQWE

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

Monoprice Affinity Premium 14AWG Braided Speaker Wire: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YN6G9G

VideoSecu 2 Heavy duty PA DJ Club Adjustable Height Satellite Speaker Stand Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VRREPG

Projector Mount - VideoSecu LCD/DLP Projector Ceiling Mount Bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IDC0K2

2x LED Lighting for Bar/Couch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V27VX7E

Unless you get a higher end AVR with ADC which will cost more, there are some adapters for cheap on Amazon but the reviews are pretty mixed such as this.

That said, it is relatively cheap and Amazon has a good return policy so may be worth a shot.

Super stylish.

Then you can bring along your camera, film some sweet video, take some nice selfies, then go home and watch it on your sweet TV and hooking the camera up with you diamond HDMI camble

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

Well, not really.

Accessories normally have a higher margin but even those are somewhat competitive. For example Best Buy sells house brand USB extension cables for $4.99. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/dynex-6-usb-a-to-usb-a-extension-cable-black/8610285.p?skuId=8610285

The $300 cables are audiophile snake oil that no reasonable person would even consider. Like this one: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/audioquest-carbon-9-8-hdmi-cable-black-dark-gray/9892524.p?skuId=9892524

And that's nothing compared to what you can find at Amazon, like these $2700 HDMI cables from the same manufacturer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT2A6I/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_4_r

I do not work for Best Buy, nor have I purchased anything from them in the past 2 years. I used to work for one of their vendors though.

I bought this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why? I don't know. I figured I might buy a 4K TV, and maybe a Scorpio, at some point so I should have a cable ready. When I bought it the price was $11.

I doubt anyone but the most lazy/uninformed people actually buy Monster brand cables when they buy a TV. Best Buy employees probably talk them into it and they don't bother to check for better prices.

Here is a budget setup
1x HDMI Cable - https://amzn.com/B014I8TC4E
1x Logitech camera that will sit on top of your TV - https://amzn.com/B0040508OY
1x USB hub https://amzn.com/B00XMD7KPU that will plug into users PC
1x USB cable extension for Camera to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I
1x Yeti microphone - https://amzn.com/B00N1YPXW2
1x USB Cable extension for Yeti microphone to USB hub - https://amzn.com/B00NH12O5I

Might have to get some stuff for cable management and get some cheap video adapters on Amazon, but this setup is like $300 max. Also, I would write up some good documentation and have it available in the room at all times. You will have to create some kind of documentation either way with any expensive solutions you find (Polycom trio, Logitech etc..).

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

yes a very good vaporize, what is your point? if you knew anything about how they are made you would know how silly you sound shit the most expensive part is the wood and what's there is like a dollars worth, according to you this must be the best HDMI ever http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top/179-9757774-1567653 sometimes people pay too much for a product and believe because they paid more they are getting a better product even it's the same thing it's called the Price Placebo Effect look it up.

Looks like you won't be going quite as far, but I had a lot of trouble trying to get 4K@60Hz 4:4:4 going about 20-ish feet (a hair over 6 meters) when I upgraded my PC's screen from one that only did 4K@30Hz.

Spoiler: the cheaper option I hesitated on worked the best.

I tried Monoprice active/directional and passive/non-directional cables and would have tried something from Blue Jeans Cable had they carried a long enough HDMI cable that they rated capable of handling the task. The original, several years old cable I had produced nothing but static. The Monoprice cables created green "sparkles" over the image. I almost moved my PC into my office, too, but at the last minute I tried an Amazon Basics cable and it has worked perfectly, even allowing me to turn on HDR10 with no trouble.

Here's the exact cable I bought (copy/pasted from my purchase history):
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8TC4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jkgzb1FZXZRE

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012FTXOW4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FT9VW0O/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008JHB14/

Not sure if "cord commander" (awesome name btw) is the same as Cable Guardian but yes, I can also highly recommend a ceiling setup if possible. I built mine with these: Keychains, HDMI extension, USB extension

I have also crafted a solution for the keychain HMD pull issue, and will be posting pics and instructions when I get them prepared.

Well, you go ahead and "invest" in a small 4k TV that you sit 10 feet away from.

To make sure you enjoy the picture quality improvements, I suggest you buy these, to optimize your "investment":

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

Only DVI-I supports analog, DVI-D is digital only. And DP also supports analog signals natively.

As for converting component RGB signal, HDMI might actually be your best bet, as this conversion is done in a lot of AV/Home Theater setups, so there's a lot of support/hardware for it.

So something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Portta-YPbPr-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid

These worked well for me, but if you need to go over 25 feet you're going to need an active HDMI cable instead:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard)
  
  
• IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over Cat5/Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet Cable (GUCE64)
  
  The 4 port USB extender worked out great because I can have the Vive, my Xbox controller, and my USB headphones all hooked into it with a plug to spare.
  
  
  
  

Okay so since this thread is just gaining traction, I'll post my review:

I had a benq xl2411.

Ordered one of these from costco

First one came in looking like someone had either literally kicked a hole into the box or it had eaten the corner of a bench or something during shipping. The monitor faces outward in the packaging, and you could tell on the cloth-type styrofoam pad around the monitor that something had come into contact with it (there was an indentation and slight rip in the styrofoam cloth), it had a mark on it when I turned it on that almost looked like a nail pressing. Guessing it ate the corner of a bench.

Returned it, got another one shipped to me very quickly (only a couple days shipping). New one also has issues that i'll discuss in a sec.

Colors are amazing, especially if you follow this guy's guide


Very bright, very vibrant colors. Coming from the benq xl2411 it felt like day and night difference, what I expect some people describe is the difference between a TN and IPS panel is. Like some games that used to be dull and boring to look at were suddenly vivid and interesting.

Extremely smooth framerate. I went from using Lightboost on the benq (which capped it to 120hz) to using this with 240hz and its a huge difference imo, as big as 60 to 120 was, for me, at least. I also have a rig that can handle 240 on ultra on most games now.

The cables it comes with are kind of short, and it only comes with an HDMI cable. For the full bandwidth of 1080p 240hz gaming, you need a displayport 1.2 cable that has been tested and received VESA certification. I got this one

The stand it actually nice, at least for my desk setup. And the color of it goes well with my white Yamaha HS8's.

The legs are almost as wide as the monitor though, this might not work for those of you who have cramped desk space.

Anyway, so this panel started doing this weird flickering thing for me, similar to the picture that this person took but mine is a vertical strip, 3-4 inches wide slightly to the right of the screen (so not as wide as the picture in that forum post). It would do this once every day or two very quickly for only a few frames. Then it started happening multiple times a day, sometimes lasting for a second or two, sometimes involving horizontal flickering of a similar type. It also seems to sometimes have weird flickering/color issues around certain objects that pop up quickly in a game.

The other day, the entire vertical segment that is a few inches wide became gray. It wasn't like the monitor was turned off in that area, it was just a completely gray band (but backlit), and it wouldn't render anything that was happening on my computer there, but it would still render my desktop or any program on either side of it.

Because it did that gray thing, I finally called in and decided to stop ignoring the problem and exchange for another one.

A day after I put in the return, I was playing binding of isaac windowed on the larger half of the screen that was still visible, and then it did the flickering thing again and the gray band went away. It still does the flickering thing every few hours for a split second.

I do not know what causes this, and I am hoping it is a bad panel, and getting the new one will fix the problem.

It is still a good monitor, and if the third one I get doesn't have any issues, I'll be really happy with the purchase.

From what I have read and what you have said that makes me feel more confident that it is the cable provided with the monitor.

Apparently for DP 1.2 the cable needs to have the removal of a certain pin that is in the free cables that come with the monitors.

My new cable comes in today I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks!



Update: Cable defiantly fixed it, I have had no issues since I switched. Gforce experience used to cause all of the problems to happen at once but now it works perfectly.

Link for anyone having similar issues:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zm1Z6gUOuHJpw

Certified Premium High Speed HDMI Cable - $6.89

The best part is, they aren't expensive. I use these and they work perfectly with Dolby Vision and HDR10.

If you are looking to make an extension cord I got one working using these:

• HDMI to DVI
  
• USB 3 extension
  
• High quality HDMI extension
  
  The HDMI to DVI is critical as DVI port gets more power allocated to it on your graphics card. It didn't work at all when I tested it without that. I do get a tiny bit of visual artifacts on all black loading screens (maybe a better hdmi cable could fix that) but all in all I am very happy with how it turned out. Now my headset cable is 5.5 meters long and I never have any problems playing room scale.

HDMI via a booster and standard cable

Signal Booster (prevents picture dropout and headset screen going black)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01E14L5YA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Basics 3m HDMI Cable

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Via USB 3 3m passive extender . Can't remember the brand I bought but amazon basics ones are amazing quality. If they had been available when I ordered I would have got one of these. (3m passive cables are unreliable for sensors, but seem to work fine with my headset, prob because of the lower bandwidth required).

https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-Male-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B00NH12O5I/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1493135898&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+usb+3+extension+cable

Definitely worth trying a new cable. Also, for what it's worth, not all cables are equal - this is regarded as one of the better DisplayPort cables available in case you're interested:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Have you also enabled the Deep Color Output for that HDMI port?

Just checking settings to make sure all is good. These things as so much easier to do in person than online lol


Also, if you're interested, these are the cables I ordered back in 2016 that are still working. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8SX4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003OC6LWM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

$9 Mini DisplayPort to HDMI and if you have a new enough Mac, it supports sound through DisplayPort as well. There's a list on the apple webpage for which computers are supported. I bought one and it works great.

I use these 10' cables to extend the link box and have had zero issues. The Amazon basics HDMI is pretty good quality and I make sure to plug the Cable Matters USB 3.0 wire into a 2.0 port.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_UqC38H59ci4DL

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9KJY/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_apip_IaA2Y3O6wb2iK

So these are small things that may or may not be useful to you but I bought them when I got my Vive and if I were buying again, I'd get these again.

To extend the cable I got HDMI Extenders and USB Extenders. This gives you another 10 feet of cord to play with.

Also, switches for the lighthouses. You may find that using Bluetooth works fine, but I like physically switching mine on and off.

If you plan to move it around (take to places for demos) then I have some other recommendations too.

The sound would go out and screen would black out for a second or 2 then come back on and it would be okay for a few minutes then repeat with the stock PS4 Pro cable. I switched to this cable from monoprice. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Haven't had any problems with the screen blacking out or sound issues. Another good cable I've heard people say works great is https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI8A1NW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3L31F4KTJOMGN&coliid=I2N5CQDFP3Y2FI&psc=1

It sucks that Sony cheaped out on the cable but I'm just happy it's working correctly now.

Final edit for now: This method produces suitably high-res videos on the hard drive, but they lose a ton of fidelity when they get uploaded. I'll leave this up for now; hopefully someone can advise.

This isn't as ideal as an all-inclusive app, but there is a pretty easy way to do what you need if you have access to a MacBook. You would want to:

• Connect the MacBook to the projector (you might find this item helpful)
  
• Connect the iPad Pro to the MacBook
  
• Boot up the preinstalled copy of QuickTime Player on the MacBook
  
• Select New Movie Recording from the file menu
  
• In the window that pops up, click the little arrow next to the record button and change the camera to the iPad Pro
  
• Drag the window as needed for your projection
  
• Boot up ZoomNotes on the iPad Pro
  
• Make the QuickTime window full screen
  
• Start recording
  
  It seems somewhat involved, but it took me more time to write out these directions than it did to actually record and upload a sample video. Total cake after you do it once or twice.
  
  Hope this helps!

It's just a different type of port. It is better than HDMI and allows for higher resolutions than 1080p, but it's not used quite as often.

Here is the cord I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OC6LWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1380941200&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165

You can see it pretty clearly on this page, just below the charge port: http://www.microsoftstore.com/store/msusa/en_US/html/pbPage.PDPS/productID.286866600

HDMI cables only support up to 60Hz, only DVI and DP do 144Hz. I highly recommend DP's.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE
This is probably the best one you can buy right now.

definitely get a better cable
the pricier, the more colors, i recommend
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

on a more serious note, you need hdmi 1.3 or above for 144hz 1080p, for 60hz 1080p, any will do
make sure to not waste your money on cables, its a digital signal, it works or it doesnt work, thats all the difference between one cable an another

I purchased a 7 inch unit with a 'Feelworld' sticker on it for $135 and it works surprisingly well. I also bought some batteries (Sony L series) and a charger as well as a magic arm and a carrying case. I am very pleased with it and the only gripe I have with it is that the power button is more like a standby button. I have to remember to pop the battery out so I don't end up with it being dead.

Here's some links:
Magic arm - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QTIVL82/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

Clamp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CM5SNY0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196JV89C/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Huge battery (one last all day about) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M3P9YBQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inexpensive HDMI cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014I8SIJY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smaller batteries and charger - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CPYXQ2S/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally, the monitor - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SV5K9WA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know ow if you have any questions!

Guess what?

They do make 50ft HDMI cables.

There's also hdmi splitters on amazon that can be switched using a controller, or physically flipping a switch on it.

EDIT: Amazon smile link! Get your cable and help out charity for the same price.

You can get an RX 550 like this.

It's the second cheapest modern card I could find on PCPartPicker, right behind the GT 1030 DDR4.

I didn't pick the other card since it only comes with 1 x HDMI and 1 x DVI-D.

The RX 550 on the other hand comes with 1 x HDMI and 1 x DisplayPort.

You can get a simple DisplayPort to HDMI cable like this one on Amazon to be able to use the second port.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
Video Card | ASRock - Radeon RX 550 - 512 2 GB Phantom Gaming Video Card | $84.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $84.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-05 09:12 EDT-0400 |
- - -
And on eBay, you could get this RX 460 for $63 (although this doesn't really matter to you, it's about twice as powerful as the RX 550).

It has 1 x HDMI, 1 x DisplayPort, and 1 x DVI-D.

You could use the same DisplayPort adapter that I mentioned above.
- - -
You actually go even lower in price, but I'd recommend the checking out the used market (e.g. eBay) for that.

When I first got my BenQ XL2730Z (144hz 1440p) monitor it flickered like that, like it kept dropping the signal for some reason. I did some research and people recommended getting a better quality DP cable, which I did and it fixed it, and it's been smooth sailing ever since. It's sad that the cable the monitor came with wasn't able to handle the highest resolution + highest refresh rate, but oh well. I'm just glad it works now.

http://www.displayport.org/cables/how-to-choose-a-displayport-cable-and-not-get-a-bad-one/

The DP cable I have now...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE

I recently bought a new monitor, and from what I understand, DisplayPort cables that are packed with them aren't often high quality, which would explain some of the issues I'm having with Freesync (blurriness and discoloration when scrolling, mostly). I'm looking at the Accell cables that seem to be suggested by a lot of users on here, but I wanted to make sure that buying the DP 1.2 cables instead of the newer 1.4 cables would be fine. I'm using an RX 480, if that matters. Thanks!

The following works with the HMD+ with none of the audio screeching I had on the original Samsung. I have 20 hours VR play since the headset arrived from Microsoft last Friday.

Gigabyte X99 G1 USB 3.0 port to:
Cable Matters Active USB 3.0 Extension Cable (USB 3 Extension Cable/USB Extension Cable Male to Female) 16.4 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to
Sabrent 4-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs included 5V/2.5A power adapter (HB-UMP3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TPMEOYM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+.

Nvidia 980 HDMI Port
to
AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 10 Feet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
to Odyssey HMD+

The cable that comes with the Pro is actually not premium certified. It doesn't come with the QR code that verifies premium certification.

http://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/Premium_HDMI_Cable_Certification_Program.aspx

It certainly may be good enough for most people, but unlike premium certified cables, it wasn't tested to guarantee full 4K bandwidth in every situation. So yes if you get signal dropout or it drops down from 4K to 1080p I'd recommend getting an actual premium certified cable, such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Gw18ybHCMF9NN

If you're able to use the full 10x10, I'd recommend hanging your headset cable from the ceiling with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need to extend your headset cable which I can confirm these work perfectly for that:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G9VOKIQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WV5YJ6H

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O

​

Order a Monoprice certified premium high speed cable. It’s just over $6 for 6 ft. That’s long enough for most installations. There are better made cables out there but these are more than good enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O

They’re cheaper if you buy them from Monoprice but end up costing the same or more after tax and shipping especially if you have Amazon Prime. If you have Prime order from Amazon.

That's completely not true, the cable you linked will only do 24hz via 4k - so it'll be fine for media, but for gaming you want the highest refresh rate possible. Yes OP, you will need HDMI 2.0.

That said, it's also important to note what you will be gaming on, as the PS4 and Xbox One will only go up to 60FPS, even with their new upgraded models like the PS4 Pro and Xbox Scorpio (which if you're playing at 4k, actually go down to 30fps), so you won't be getting anything close to 120Hz unless you are gaming on PC, and even then, 4k@120 Hz is a lot of pixels to push, we're talking dual GPUs at this point. And if you did want to do that, it may not even be ideal because of the input lag caused by a TV.

TL;DR: get hdmi 2.0, they're cheap as well. But it probably won't matter for gaming as input lag is going to be a more influential factor.

> $149 is well worth it based on the tech and features, thus the Return on Investment (ROI).

If a $30 Roku stick does everything I need to (and it does), it is worse ROI to spend an additional $119 which gains me nothing I want.

>You always get what you pay for.

You always get what you pay for? There are so many things in life that simply isn't true. Here's a $1300 1 meter HDMI cable as an example. Do you think you get $1290 better quality than a $10 HDMI cable?

>Objectively not overpriced.

This is far from objective as it is very nearly the definition of a subjective statement.

> While your $30 dollar device ‘works’ for now, it will show its age much sooner

This is likely true! However, you know what I can do when that happens? Take some of the $119 I saved by not buying an Apple TV and buy a new generation $30 device a few years from now if I ever have that need.

You're certainly welcome to your opinion, but it is disingenuous to express your opinion as fact.

I used:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008219UMI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and have had great success.

I have this sound bar, but the X900F tv, and both Dolby Vision and Atmos work with my AppleTV 4K so your setup should work. I’m using the AmazonBasics High-Speed 4K HDMI Cable.

Other than trying different cables, ensure that the cable plugged into the tv is going into a port that supports all features. On the X900F this is HDMI 3, it might be similar on the 950.

Edit: I should mention that I’m also using ARC and pass through on the sound bar (i.e. the same configuration that I believe you’re using).

Regarding the TV in your bedroom: If the PS3 in your living room is close to the TV in your bedroom, you could get away with a long run of HDMI... especially if you're just passing the cable through a wall. From what I've read, the general consensus regarding HDMI cable length is about 50ft max.

Here's a highly reviewed 50ft HDMI cable that's rated for in-wall installation.

If it's a really long distance requiring that you run the cable up a wall, over a ceiling, and down another wall, you'll want to run Cat5e or Cat6. If you decide to run Cat5e or Cat6, make sure you run two lengths of cable. You'll need both for the extender adapters. It seems the reviews on these adapters varies a lot, so look for a product with a decent amount of positive reviews. Most products appear to allow for a maximum cable length of 150ft to 200ft.

Question for you... if your PS3 is connected to the TV in your living room, how are you planning to connect it to the TV in your bedroom? Unplug and re-plug two separate HDMI cables? HDMI splitter?

This is a good option to get DV at a good price. There is also a belkin cable food for DV. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCGKI3O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
For best DV results, stuck to 2m/6ft cables.

Hey n00b...hit me up when you're ready to step up your game. You haven't lived until you step up to a $13,500 AudioQuest Diamond braided HDMI cable, wrapped around some $12,500 Naturelle Plus Maxi Pads with Wings. Be sure to get the ones with wings, as they add flavor. Us "pros" call them "flavor wings".

You're not really a serious vaper until you've stepped up your vape game like the rest of us adults.

DP to hdmi. And i have tried all different brands and they all work good. I love amazon basic cables and their stuff.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-DisplayPort-HDMI-Cable-Feet/dp/B015OW3M1W

THIS FINE CABLE MAY IMPROVE YOUR VIEWING/HEARING EXPERIENCE. IT WILL BE WORTH EVERY PENNY.

So just to be clear, I should have 2 50 foot hdmi cables with a repeater in between them?
And I think these hdmi cables look better:

https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Wall-High-Speed-Cable/dp/B004GW25WY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519238634&sr=8-3&keywords=high+speed+hdmi+50+foot

And a cat6a would be good enough for the usb extension?
There is 3(ish) things that concern me with this setup.
1)
I have stated this concern here
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/7z3yai/usb_kvm_extender_problem/
And this would apply to the usb to ethernet extension.
2)
The hdmi repeater you linked to seems too slow.
The specs for it says max speed output is 6.0 Gbps, and hdmi 1.3 needs 10.2 Gbps.
3)
Lag, I plan on playing fps games and stuff on my desk and I can't have usb lag slowing me down.

I just threw on this Gigabyte HD 7970 on my new gaming PC and it works like a charm. It's well know, reliable, and has multiple ports. While it says it doesn't have two HDMI ports right off the bat, it has one HDMI port and 2 mini display ports. You can easily get either a converter, or a cable that goes from mini display port to HDMI (here is one that is $5 for 6 ft, cheaper than some HDMI cables). Mine even came with an adapter in the box, so I'd definitely consider this as an option.

Sounds like a fake Amazon review... Oh god, how many of those "joke reviews" may have in fact been the real deal? I better get me a few AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cables.

Have you tried to use Display Driver Uninstaller to remove and reinstall drivers? First thing you should do when you upgrade your GPU and have issues with video output.
https://www.wagnardsoft.com/

I run the coween adapter
a 10ft Amazon Basics High Speed HDMI Cable
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-1-Pack/dp/B014I8T0YQ?th=1
and an amazon basics 10ft USB 3.0 Extension (not active) plugged into my front USB 3.0 port to get rid of the static.
All goes well.
GPU: EVGA 1080 FTW Hybrid.

Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!

Purchased items(US):

• Dog leash (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LCECNES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• command strips (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084M696K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft passive HDMI (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8T0YQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• HDMI repeater (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• 10ft usb3.0 cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  Total: ~40$
  
  

In theory most cables will work, but if something is slightly out of tolerance high refresh/resolution can be problematic.

If you want a high-quality AV grade cable I recommend Accell: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE/

Comprehensive is good too: https://www.amazon.com/Comprehensive-Cable-DISP-HD-3ST-Standard-DisplayPort/dp/B006X0OBAQ/

1.) Buy some:

• cheap wall/ceiling mounts - https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Metal-Bracket-Security-Camera/dp/B00UVCKZZ2/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YWPFSDBSZ19JTXY8JFYZ
  
  
• and extension cables - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• or https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 if you need something longer.
  
  
• Mount sensors to the ceiling.
  
  
• Profit.
  
  You might want to extend Rift's cables. I use:
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter USB 3.0 extender -
  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• amazon basic 3 meter HDMI extender - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• cable management system - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XT2XLZ5 (thank you, u/Mugendon! - https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/65ibit/finally_an_out_of_the_box_working_oculus_rift/)
  
  
  2.) My Rift lays on the table. I cover it with a towel (with a moomin on it xD)

Better to eat diamonds than buy Diamond HDMI Cables that cost more than 4 top of the line laptops, a top of the line desktop, and all the peripherals combined.

Oooopsies, I think I may have accidentally exposed a few people to a new magnitude of stupidity separate from TiA norms. Well hey, at least these reviews are funny.

Amazon Basics do huge HDMI cables and they work great.
Standard
Braided
Both under $10.
I run a Pro with 4K HDR with one of these.

Okay, just making sure. All hdmi cables are pretty much the same as far as personal use goes. Unless something broken with the cable, it won't affect performance.

And this is the super crazy expensive HDMI cable on Amazon (I guess they felt that stretching it to 16m was worth the extra $15,000) : http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415383294&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Yeah this is normal I have the Same one does the same thing for me...

your best bet for Converting to HDMI and Upscaleing are these 2 items or just get a Used Wii U since it plays Wii Games in 1080p.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L14Y9I/

I've been thinking about doing something like this.

As for the HDMI/USB extension, I have an Odyssey and have been using the 6 foot versions of these things with pretty great results so far:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

However, I've heard that going longer than something like 10 feet requires an active cable, but I don't know the specifics of it.

I'd recommend looking for a component to HDMI adapter instead of buying a new display. Plus Monitor are generally better than TVs especially when using a PC.

I just found one https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6

hope this helps.

While these cables are impressive, they are just cheap knock off's of the original.

You want quality, you go with AudioQuest. Diamond infused HDMI cables are where it's at.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

You may as well get a HDMI 2.0 as im pretty sure they are all similar prices.

Amazon even has this 2.0 going to £4 https://www.amazon.co.uk/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-2-0-Cable/dp/B014I8SIJY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501980022&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+2

For 2 meters or less almost any decent cable will work, bigger than that you need active cables and hdmi repeater.

These are the ones I use and they work perfectly (6ft, 2m)

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know most people are saying any modern HDMI cable will work, but this is not entirely correct.


There was a test done that I’ll have to look up regarding HDMI cables ability to transmit full 4K and HDR content. Only a few of like 20 cables were able to consistently deliver the content correctly, even though all advertised they could.


I’ve had issues trying to get full 4K HDR content to work correctly on both my appletv and Xbox One x. After going through a dozen or so different “high speed” cable brands that all promised 18gbps and HDR compatibility, the only ones I found to consistently work were the Monoprice premium cables. Interestingly, this was also consistent with the previously mentioned results.


My other cables would work intermittently and drop out, leading to some major issues trying to figure out what was wrong. After hours of messing around and them buying a ton of cables, I came to this conclusion.


My suggestion, buy this cable either through amazon or monoprice.com and be done with it:
Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Hahahaha dirty peasant,

My [diamond coated HDMI Cable] (http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Digital-Ethernet-Connection-meters/dp/B003CT2A6I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376520150&sr=8-2&keywords=diamond+hdmi) has greatly enhanced my tv experience! It's amazing how vivid the picture looks. I mean it's so crystal clear that I actually jumped into my tv like mario does in Super mario 64. Next thing you know im in the middle of the Gobi desert being chased by Mongolian death worms. Luckily I managed to catch a breath of air and called out to my Diamond HDMI Cable. The cable in all it's magnificent Diamond Coated glory killed the Death worms with ease and pulled me out of the tv and back into my living room. I'm telling you these cables are worth it, I can't wait for Call of Puppies, I mean call of duty ghost to come out. Then I can finally live my dream of running around with a bunch of dogs, shooting down terrorist.

Hard. Like the diamonds used in the best HDMI cable ever! Only $13499.75! Shipping only $3.99! Get yours now at https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-52-49-Braided-Cable/dp/B00IL3TZSQ

You really want to use a braided diamond filament HDMI cable or you're going to get a serious bottleneck in your cognitive transmission. Trust me, these are a real solid value for the money, although if you really want to cut down on the latency you're going to have to go with something a little more high end.

Purchasing an extra sensor comes with a Monoprice USB extension cable, but other than that, These worked for me:

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Active Extension Cable 5 Meters/16.4 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMFB5OK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Fw8SCFQE4HwKp

Cable Matters 2-Pack High Speed HDMI Extension Cable with Ethernet 10 Feet - 3D and 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJ517VI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_n4vo6UArwEca1

My booting issue is that it crashes the second before I reach my desktop, like it becomes completely unresponsive and the image is frozen. It crashes at exact the same point every single time.
I can give it a try though, will have find out how to make that work.

The displayport that was provided with the monitor is a 1.2 I think, pretty sure it is exactly this model: https://www.amazon.com/Accell-DisplayPort-Cable-Locking-Latches/dp/B0098HVZBE/

http://www.amazon.com/Mini-DisplayPort-HDMI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B003OC6LWM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2C2WSYFK07OWY&colid=ERJRWF83N1LV

I'm your average broke college kid and I would love to have this to take back home with me for the holidays. thank you!!

This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.

But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Nice, I just bought this HDMI extender and it DOESN'T work. Just an FYI for anyone interested. http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Extension-Cable-10-FT/dp/B00GBBSZFE?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Expensive item

Cheap Banana slicer with awesome reviews

Chuckle worthy thing

That's because high speed cables have at minimum 10.2 gbps bandwidth (this is the full bandwidth of the old HDMI 1.4 spec) and are not capable of the full 18gbps bandwidth of the HDMI 2.0 spec, required for 4k60.
Just like the port on your TV and on your source device need to be "4k60" the cable does as well.

When buying HDMI cables always look for the two keywords before buying:
18gbps (18 gigabytes per second), and 4k@60 (or just 4k60).
If you want to be extra sure, HDMI has a certification program, and cables that have passed are marketed as "Premium High Speed HDMI Cable". These certified cable will be able to handle everything that HDMI 2.0 could possibly throw at them. More on that, including how to ensure you are buying a genuine cable that was actually certified, here: https://www.hdmi.org/manufacturer/premiumcable/faq.aspx
Even if you are buying a certified cable still make sure it has the two keywords 18gbps and 4k@60.
These certified cables aren't even expensive, for example here is a 6ft monoprice premium certified cable i found with a 30 second Amazon search for $5.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-115428-Certified-Premium-18Gbps/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543465057&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=premium+high+speed+hdmi+cable&dpPl=1&dpID=31vnewgtCfL&ref=plSrch

You can skip the rest of this comment if you want, it's just about why you should never buy expensive HDMI cables, bandwidth is only thing that matters.

(And by the way expensive HDMI cables are stupid. Since it's an error corrected digital signal, if you are getting a picture at all it is identical to what the source device sent out, same with audio. Bandwidth (18 gbps!) is the only thing that actually matters when buying HDMI cable, as that will dictate what features you can send down the cable (4k60, HDR, ect.) And if the cable actually gives you a picture and audio at all, rest assured it is bit for bit identical to what the source device sent. (Although there is an EXTREMELY RARE and EXTREMELY OBVIOUS issue, occasionally seen in cheap or damaged cables, that causes many pixels to be pure 255,255,255 white. You'd know if this was happening. If it looks normal, it's bit perfect signal.
And there is no audio version of this, if there is any issue with the audio at all it will not be played and you will hear nothing.
So don't let anyone tell you that more expensive HDMI cables have superior picture or audio, it's not true, the bandwidth is the only thing that will actually affect anything.)

Sorry for any typographical errors, I typed all this on a Razer Phone 2.

> I was very amused by the claims of these guys, saying that reflective light was easier on the eyes... such a load of crap.

You OBVIOUSLY haven't spent a lot of time with the technology then, or haven't used the proper equipment. Properly reflected light, reflected off a alloyed gold (or better yet, platinum) based reflector, through a diamond refractor will produce a VERY crisp image that you can look at for hours with no strain. The benefit of using platinum instead of gold is that gold provides just a hit of coloring, whereas platinum provides all the warmth of gold with more accurate colors, but some people just like to cheap out.

Geeze, next you'll be spouting off about how my AudioQuest HDMI Cables are no better than some Amazon Basic crap. :D

I know it’s sucks on Nintendo’s part, but luckily Amazon basics solve so many of these issues cheaply:

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable, 10 Feet, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T0YQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4CW4Bb68B25H6

Yeah. This is the highest quality cable. Due to its amazing shielding, the signal is never lost or damaged as it goes. http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-feet-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT08E4

This is the one I use. Works great. I got lucky and got it for about about $10 on eBay though. https://www.amazon.com/Portta-N3CVRHP-Component-Converter-support/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521116497&sr=1-1&keywords=portta+component+to+hdmi&dpID=41mr9xhIDBL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Sounds like a cheap HDMI cord, better go with this for optimal quality at short distances.

The Q1 is far better than the DF Black and its size is palpable. The internal battery of the Q1 will also prevent super fast drainage of your phone's battery.

Audioquest is mostly selling overpriced garbage and $2000 HDMI cables

Yes there are component to HDMI converters, like this one:

Portta PETRHP V1.3 Component RGB Plus R/L to HDMI Converter Support 1080p for DVD PS3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VJ9RP6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6YNGub1BPK617

this one

It’s pretty amazing, never had any issues with it. It turns the monitor on like 3 seconds slower than native HDMI but it works well aside from that.

Would like to say this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 HDMI extension works well too! :)

It will work fine in that configuration, the card can drive 2 different things at different refresh rates and resolutions without issue. Get a good DP cable though like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B142C-007B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Locking/dp/B0098HVZBE

Dell makes expensive shit. It looks nice ad works but I feel its overpriced for what it is. I have 2 Dell monitors here and I love the aesthetics but they aren't worth what I paid for them IMO. Don't know about AOC.

Yeah unlike many other cables, Display Port cables can be pretty sensitive, and quality matters. Get the shortest cable length and highest quality you can. Accel cables are the most highly recommended. This is the one I have https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0098HVZBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qVaGzb5NG3HRX

One example of some pretty good trolling on Amazon are the reviews for Amazon's most expensive HDMI cable.

You will need one of these cables

A little pricey but you will have the best AD4K experience.

You need to get an [AudioQuest Diamond Braided HDMI Cable] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IL3TZSQ/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w). And get a long one so you can move your printer around. Free shipping on Amazon!

I am using this combo HDMI/USB 3.0 extension cable (10 feet). Don't need to worry about passive/active stuff, just plug and play. I have been using these for 3 weeks now and they are flawless.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NH12O5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And to add, if you’re in the market for cables, I would recommend the Monoprice ones.


Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 4K@60Hz, HDR, 18Gbps, 28AWG, YUV 4:4:4, Dual Video Stream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lLNoDbTCC4RE9

For example. They have some slim ones too.

I just upgraded all my HDMI cables to these yesterday and everything works great.

Even better, there's a $2700 one, from everyone's favourite, AudioQuest. Better still, it has some add-on ethernet thing if you ever want to...I don't know, host a LAN party with your bluray player or something? *has no clue*

I don't play FPSes (and hence, don't really use mouse/keyboard), but I will chime in to make sure you're aware of this:

In most cases, you can use your PS4 controller. I have been able to use it with my PC over Bluetooth in the past (native Windows 10, without downloading third-party drivers), but if you have problems doing so, just slap your USB controller charging cable between your DS4 and a USB port on your PC, and off you go.

I personally take it a step further and have a cheap 25-foot HDMI cable running from the back of my PC, around the room, into my TV in the same room, and have it set up as a third monitor. Then just play on the couch with a controller. This is also useful for watching things as well.

Refresh / latency obviously take a hit from this setup, but no more than standard consoles, and it's really only an issue with FPSes (which is what you're having difficulties with, but I just want to make sure you're aware of options you have for other PC games).

Alright so I think this could work, thank you for the help!

> AudioQuest

I really like their US$14,000 HDMI cable from amazon. :)

This is the cable that's recommended more often because it's had a very good track record and supports everything. A lot of the time cheaper cables have issues above 6ft. Topic on PCMR Subreddit about Quality DP cables.

• $800 ($800) for 1080p 3d projector (I have the older and now discontinued, H7531D model which while 1080P, did not support 3D. The newer model does, and has twice the lamp life of mine)
  http://www.projectorcentral.com/Acer-H6510BD.htm
  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009486
  
  
• $200 (varies) 120" framed screen - I built mine, pretty simple, used instructions from here: http://www.carlofet.com/build-your-own-projector-screen/
  
• $20 ($12) ceiling mount kit from monoprice
  http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10911&cs_id=1091102&p_id=3875
  
• $40 ($35) 50ft hdmi cable from amazon
  http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-In-wall-Installation--supports-version/dp/B004GW25WY
  
• $60 ($100) OEM replacement lamp from ebay (this has gone up a bit since I bought mine, probably due to demand)
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/330885230688
  
  Sorry to hear about the taxes thing, hopefully you can find equivilents of what I have listed here. Let me know if you have any questions!

Don't buy the receiver from Amazon. You need something with a phono input and you should get something with decent room correction which pretty much means you're buying a refurbished Denon.

• Refurbished AVR-X1500H from Accessories4Less ($300)
  
• Roll of Monoprice 14AWG Speaker Wire $25
  
• Sanus speaker stands in black or cherry $80
  
  Then whatever amount of HDMI cables you need should cost you $12 for a two pack. I recommend Monoprice high speed certified.

My HDMI cable supports Full Mega Super HD™.

I use all 4k monitors now and made sure to keep HDMI cable lengths to exactly the minimum needed. These cables work great https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-6ft-Connectors-PlayStation/dp/B00NQ9OQU2 so make sure you are using ones rated 4k60 HDMI 2.x older cables or splitters can cause issues.

To think Monster cables are bad, check this cable out: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

Oddly enough Best Buy also seems to carry these in my area, and they sell for $350. Yay for Monoprice! They get you on the shipping sometimes but the cables are dirt cheap and work great.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-2m-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1387589925&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+hdmi

Lmao read the reviews

In all serious though gold and silver are used in pretty much all computers. Gold does not oxidize like copper.

You don't need a 5.1 to get them where they need to be if music is going to be the focus. I would look at a nice simple 2.0/2.1 to start with and he/they can expand if they feel it's something they want to go further into. Here's my shopping list.

AVR - Denon AVR-S510BT $230 new $200 refurb. Needed for either system.

2.0 Speakers - Polk RTi8 (2) $150ea so $300 or Infinity Towers $300. These shouldn't need a sub right away.

2.1 Speakers - Cambridge SX-60 $250 or Focal Sibs $250

Sub - Dayton Sub 1200 $120

Misc Stuff - Speaker wire, HDMI/Optical cable, HDMI cables, Sub Cable if getting the sub and stands if you get the 2.1 speakers and they don't have anything to put the speakers on.

I'm surprised you mention the adapter when this component is clearly more vital !

My wife let me take over the spare bedroom for my Vive playspace. The fold up bed cost about £300 but is totally worth it :)

The ceiling light will be replaced will a less obtrusive one, I'm just not that good a DIYer to do it myself.

If anyone is looking for extension cables that work, I used these HDMI and USB cables to get from my study across the landing (power point is within the room so didn't need a cable for that):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TC4E

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NORHCE8

Haha you were starting to confuse me for a sec! I checked the link I gave you, and realized I made a mistake. I've changed the link to the correct item, but here's the link again anyway. Haha you were starting to confuse me for a sec! Having looked again at the HD 60, your setup would work like this.

Your 360 would use the RGB (red, green, blue) cables to plug into the converter. You would then use an HDMI to go from the converter to the El Gato. Then, you use your second HDMI to go from the El Gato to the TV.

Basically, your setup isn't much different from how you would normally set up your El Gato. The difference is the added step going from the Xbox to the El Gato.

You're definitely mixing up some information.

The two different video output cables are the standard composite cables (1 yellow cable, 480i) and the component cables(3 cables green, blue, red, 480p) which are sold separately.

Both composite and component video are analog.

The product description of this certain adapter states that all it does is convert analog into digital.

>the Wii2HDMI converter dynamically switches or converts your analog content to digital HDMI format.

Using the Sewell adapter is basically the same using component cables to output 480p then converting it to HDMI using one of these adapters just with less cables.

Well since you know so much about HDMI, you would know that this is the best one you can buy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT08E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fKtLBb1M0YP8M

These should be everything you need and I've tested them with just the Oculus and they work perfectly:

• HDMI http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI
  
• USB http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U
  
  You could get a 2-pack of the USB extender which may work with the camera as well.

I'd try the amazon basic HDMI cord. It's very thick, which is technically undesirable for other applications, but it's a very good thing for VR as it lets you move the data further
The amazon basic USB 3.0 extension is also cheap and works. But length is more of an issue with USB than HDMI, so keep that in mind when ordering. For instance, if you want to do a set up with longer than 10ft HDMI, I'd use a USB 2.0 extension or alternatively find an active solution so the USB 3.0 works.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H91KE?th=1 (I used the 10 ft, and have no problems, YMMV)
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Extension-Cable-Male-Female/dp/B00NH12O5I (same as above, remember the USB stuff is finicky and depends on the PSU on your computer. But I'd say under 10 ft --this is 9.8ft-- is fine)

Thanks ! Canceled the cablematters cable and ordered this one :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098HVZBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that was mentioned in the thread you linked .

Cheers

You mean I didn't had to buy AudioQuest Diamond HDMI to have a superior experience?

Yup. $12.99 and 25 feet long...

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-HDMI-Cable-Standard/dp/B014I8TC4E/

I have this cable and it's nice. I know there isn't much to say about an HDMI cable, but this one is pretty tough feeling.

They need not be expensive. The Amazon Basics one will be perfectly adequate.

I just had to return a few Amazon Basic cables (i have two mirrored outputs on my AVR) because they would not carry the Dolby Vision or HDR signal from my Apple Tv 4K to my TV. They were 10' cables. Replaced with a Monoprice brand (also sold at Amazon) and it worked great. Later found out the Dolby Vision requires the cables be clearly marked PREMIUM CERTIFIED. The Amazon Basic cables are not marked as such where the Monoprice ones are.


https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Certified-Premium-Speed-Cable/dp/B01GCGKI3O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1506533116&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+hdmi

EDIT: YMMV, I've also been told that cables without that marking will work with DV over shorter distances, but this was my experience.

However, it will be VERY obvious to you when you need the third sensor.You'll find yourself frequently facing the direction without sensors and visual glitches everywhere, trying to turn around and deal with whatever in game objective you were dealing with previously.

If your not experiencing this then wait :)

As a List (That you didn't ask for) for what I bought for Roomscale:4 port /w controller USB 3.0 card (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPUHO10)Additional Sensor (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727WDPX6) - Note this includes an 2.0 USB extension cable, 2.0 can stretch farther without signal loss.

**Extra Equipment**10 Ft HDMI extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE) - For the Oculus Headset16 Ft USB Active extension (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8) - For the Oculus headset

Hangers for the Oculus cable (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW) - this just gets the cables from under your feet, it is my favorite

I'm using these and they work great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXZQSCN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this 6ft HDMI and 6ft USB. They work great.

​

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A30FLE2/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00P0ES0YE/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My receiver supports it alright, just double checked. Yeah I have this going from the Shield to the receiver.

I have this one going from the receiver to the TV.

Don't know where you got that idea from, but this 10f extension works perfect for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/

Great advice!! So I should get these?? https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Diamond-6-56-Braided-Cable/dp/B003CT2A2M

I bought this one, and it works perfectly fine.

Amazon.

Super thick and heavy duty cord as well. It is out of stock right now though

I bought this and it works perfectly fine for me.

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI 2.0 Extension Cable - 10 Feet

MSI Z170A, i5 6600k, RX 480 8GB.

This one. Actually, I don't know if it matters what brand it is, because I don't really use HDMI. Anyway I hope someone can help!

AudioQuest (the makers of the superb AudioQuest Diamond HDMI Cables) also make a titanium-housed USB drive with beryllium flange. They are also coming out with a 1 EB HAMMR drive (Heat Assisted Mega Magnetic Recording) but that's going to burn a hole in your pocket, I think. Their USB drive is guaranteed for 500 years or until USB becomes obsolete, whichever comes first. Check out the reviews - they're a quality company and many buyers are very very satisfied indeed. ^(/s)

In a forum post on Oculus quite some time ago cyber recommended the following pair which are in use at Oculus:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ517VI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can confirm they work for me for a 10' extension on the HMD. As a bonus there is now a break away for the cables that is not my motherboard!

Thanks for the advice, I'll give that a go tonight after work.

I'm currently using this HDMI cable for the main 4k display

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ9OQU2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the side 1440p monitor I'm just using a generic DP cable. Sounds like the HDMI might be an issue?