(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best interior care products

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

Alright I feel like no one on the internet adequately addresses the issue of shoe maintenance so I will, right now. There are many different approaches to shoe maintenance. This tries to highlight multiple perspectives and synthesize information from people smarter than I.

Step one. Remove shoe laces. Doesn't matter who you are, this is a must.

Again I want to address that shoe maintenance is a multi-step process, and people do it different ways. Some people do initial cleaning with Saddle Soap, but I haven't added that to my maintenance game yet, so this guide pretends that saddle soap does not exist. However, I do acknowledge that shoes need to be cleaned if they have been worn. Grab a dish rag and go to town. Don't forget the nooks and crannies. Really all your doing here though is brushing your shoes off. Keep it simple, don't brush your shoes all day.

Next thing you gotta do is moisturize!
Get yourself some neatsfoot oil, shoes want to shower in that.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=Fiebings+neatsfoot+oil&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=8295503060377810342&sa=X&ei=Lmz0TvrHLOHL0QH6tKjPAg&ved=0CHAQ8wIwAA

note some oils change color. I use Lexol Neatsfoot Leather Dressing
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1412-Neatsfoot-Leather-Conditioner/dp/B000637TF0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1324641396&sr=8-3

It is not that lexol is the best, I just have experience with it so I gotta show love. I'm sure there are other great oils out there and I hope other folks from MFA can tell you what oil they use.

Do the oil once every two months and make sure to moisten your shoes with a healthy coating of this. Leather was once a dead animals living tissue, the outer layer. Think about what our skin does, it produces oils so that it stays moist and does not crack! This is particularly true in the winter, for me, I do not produce enough oil and I have to use moisturizer or the back of my hands will bleed. I shit you not. Moral of the story, moisten your leather too. After moistening, let your shoes sit for 12 hours maybe 24 then move onto the next step, because even with Lexol the color changes. Allowing your leather some time to recover will allow its natural color to return.

WATERPROOFING.
Here is where things get tricky. A lot of waterproofing agents, scratch that all, make your shoes water resistant, not waterproof. Note there is a difference. Even after applying liberal (and I mean liberal) amounts whatever product you choose, there will never be a day where you can safely jump in puddles, sorry.

There are different waterproofing products. Some will alter the color of the leather.

I have used Sno-Seal before and while it is effective it significantly darkens the leather. This is not necessarily a bad thing, sometimes a darker color creates a dressier look, which can make your shoes more versatile. What I mean is that a darker shoe can be worn for a night out for formal or fun functions.

Anyway. I also used some old waterproofer that my mom gave me. I am in College. Suck it. That my mom gave me. This product is less effective than Sno-Seal, but not much less. It was sold with an Eddie Bauer label, but produced by Leather Finishes Company of Milwaukee, WI. I do not know where it can be purchased today.

Montana Pitch Blend is another popular weatherproofing/leather conditioning product. Montana Pitch Blend actually combines the moistening and the waterproofing in one product, at least I think. I hope someone else can contribute here about their experiences with the product as I have never used it, but have heard great things.

I also will link you to an article on Valet.
http://www.valetmag.com/style/products/2011/classic-shoe-care-012011.php

If you do apply some weatherproofer shit you can polish after that process is all done. Note that if process seems vague, it is because any product you use should come with specific instructions.

NEXT STEP. Polish baby.

In the Valet link I posted they showed a picture of Lincoln stain wax. Unless you wanna dry out your supple moist leather, avoid this product and any other wax based polish. Wax based polishes are not good for your leather in the long run. This goes back to them being recycled skin, though I am not sure how.

Use meltonian shoe cream.
Cream is good. Wax is bad.

When applying the cream use a dauber, available at your local cobbler/leather repair shop or on amazon. These spread the cream evenly across shoe. Make sure to let your shoes sit for 10 minutes after applying the polishing cream! Now come in with a horsehair brush or a nice cotton hanky and buff those bad boys into oblivion. Sometimes an extra high shine can be achieved by applying a second coat of cream. Usually by the end of the second coat, you can see your face in the leather.

PHEW. That one part is done.

Now we have to talk about shoe trees. Right when you take your shoes off, put in some cedar shoe trees. If you cannot afford cedar shoe trees, which often cost $20, one can purchase plastic versions. Wrap the plastic with paper towel, so that some moisture can be absorbed. Note: you can use the same paper towel until it falls apart.

P.S. don't forget to take out your shoelaces.

Also, here is a link about shoes from Put This On. Fast forward to the part about shoe maintenance if you want or watch the whole thing, it is rather informative and may help guide your next purchase.

http://putthison.com/post/535994284/episode-2-shoes

Fuck this took longer then expected.

Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....

Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...

You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.

You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...

The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.

You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.

This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.

Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.

I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.

Thanks for letting me know about your review! I think it looks so good! 😍 I’m sorry about what happened with the zipper, but at least you got it fixed and Oli is willing to send you replacement parts 😊 I have not ordered from Oli before but this is really making me consider it!

I wanted a PSM so bad that I snatched one up in mono on the BST page that was originally from Fubar888. I did a DIY to the straps and front leather tab and it turned out pretty good! This is what it looks like now. Maybe I’ll have to get the reverse one now too 😂

edit: as for the sheen on LV pieces I saw on this sub that a woman recommended Fiebing Resoline. I just searched “Fiebing Resoline” on amazon and that one popped up. I haven’t tried it myself but I ordered it and it should get to be on Saturday. Apparently the sheen from this lasts longer than Lexol.

Hi and welcome! We have a bootblacking wiki with all your basic info needs. You'll be looking for Bootblacking 101 -- the instructions for non-high shine.

With garment leather, seeing that it is often clothing (jackets, vests, etc.), the only difference is that you may not want to use a grease or oily conditioner, as depending on the item, the grease may rub off on pieces of clothing and stain.

I personally really like Huberd's for footwear and for certain pieces like my leather gloves, but if I'm at all concerned that the grease may be problematic, I use Cadillac and it's pretty great. There are a variety of less-greasy conditioners out there; I happen to have stumbled upon Cadillac and I like it a lot. It works well and absorbs quickly and nicely. :)

I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax every 2-3 months. I wash with Meguiars Wash & Wax in the winter or Gold Class during the rest of the year and then finish with X-Press Spray Wax to refresh my wax coat after every wash. I’ve found that Ford paint/clear coat absolutely loves Meguiars formulas and the routine I use keeps all my Fords shining like wet glass. I don’t use paste waxes or ceramic coatings anymore because they’re such a pain to remove when it’s time to reapply. Liquid wax goes on easy, shines for 2-3 months, and then comes of just as easy so it saves you a ton of time when you have two or three cars in your household to maintain.

Most wheel stuff is pretty much the same but I use Meguiars Hot Rims on my wheels and Hot Shine on my tires around once a month or after every other wash and it keeps them shining beautifully. Keeping a coat of Hot Rims on the wheels prevents brake dust from bonding to them so you can just spray them off to keep them clean between applications.

For my black plastic trim and weather stripping I use 303 Aerospace Protectant once in the fall and once in the spring and it keeps it looking like new plastic and not greasy or overly shiny. The 303 has UV protection that prevents fading as well.

No need to polish or do anything abrasive, as these windows are extremely soft and you can easily cause irreparable damage by using over aggressive methods or products. 1Z Deep Plastik Cleaner will do the trick for the majority of the buildup you have. The scratches might be there for good, unfortunately.

Here's a 50/50 on a Porsche Vinyl window. Nothing but that chemical and a clean, soft towel. It's one of my favorite products for interiors as well, so a great purchase, and free shipping if you have Amazon Prime(and you can get this plus another 1Z product or something and still get super saver shipping if you don't)

Nice! I would still clean it, even if it doesn't look dirty. I mix a little dish soap (about a quarter size) in with warm water. I then use an old white t-shirt or rag to clean it -- I dip the rag into the mixed solution and then wipe off the entire bag, typically in a circular motion. I highly recommend this conditioner that I buy from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042NI86E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I have used it on all of my vintage Dooney and Coach bags and all my leather boots. I again use a piece (a new piece) of white rag and apply the conditioner pretty generously -- but you don't want any globs anywhere and wipe off anything that's noticeably sitting on any stitching. I then let it sit for about 10-20 minutes and wipe everything off in a circular motion with a clean rag piece. You'll then want to allow it time to dry. I'd say mine are typically dry within an hour. If you find any spots that still feel oily, just wipe them off again in a circular motion. Hopefully this helps! It's a process, but I did this today with this one I posted and it looks so much prettier!

Got you covered:

1. a) The widest part of your foot should correspond with the widest section of the boot. Most of the creasing should happen in between the laces/tongue and the cap. My Brannock is 8D, I wear an 8D in the Katahdin. b) The break in will NOT be fun, but two weeks tops; 'lean' forward when you lace them up, and lace all the way up (I skip the middle set of speedhooks and then double-back). c) The leather won't stretch very much: if it's snug during first wear, you're good to go; if it hurts in any way, size up or go wide; if there's heel slippage, size down.
   
   
2. NO WATERPROOFING. Well, you can. But Lexol or Bickmore care products (cleaner, conditioner, repellent) are plenty for your boots. Heavy duty waterproofing products will make your boots look ugly/blobby. The tongue is gusseted, helps to keep out water/dirt.
   
   
3. It'll happen on it's own.
   
   
4. Depends. I walk around a lot (concrete, asphalt, linoleum, etc.), I haven't had problems with the insole. Do you have issues with flat-footedness, high arches, etc.? Remember that an insert will require you to size up. The outsole/heel will wear down, especially if you pronate/supinate. It helps to have a second pair of footwear to rotate with (and let boots 'rest'), so consider a second footwear purchase in the coming year or so (I picked up a pair of AE's Higgins Mills about 10 months after I bought the Katahdin).
   
   
5. I use Woodlore Epics after every wear, brush only if I kicked a lot of things on a given day. A cloth rag is good for wiping away dirt (especially that rainwater + city dirt mix).
   
   The Katahdin leather has an interesting depth to it. Lemme know if you have more questions.
   
   Edit: more details/clarity.

This is super easy to do.
Unless you have horrible color transfer, you don't really need to use the cleaner. I typically love using pure Water Wipes to wipe down my bag after each use. I typically use Cadillac Conditioner (I also have apple conditioner) I prefer Cadillac on vachetta and Apple on treated leather. I use a generous amount on a soft cloth, and gently rub it into the bag. I often do one coat, let dry for 30 minutes and apply a second coat and let dry again.
I only condition once every 3-4 months unless you live in a very humid or dry location.
I swear by my Kiwi all protect spray for vachetta as well.

I am guessing that he cleaned them with a horsehair brush, wiped them down with water, let dry, cleaned with saddle soap, then conditioned with leather conditioner, oil, or shoe creme. Could have polished them with shoe polish and buffed them to a shine.

What's really cool is that you can get the stuff to do this at home (and you should) for something like $20. Then you can do it whenever your shoes need it. It's good preventative maintenance. I also started liking shoes a lot more once I started doing this myself. Here is a shopping list.

• saddle soap - $5.69
  
• neatsfoot oil - $5.94
  
• some old rags.. cotton tshirts or socks or whatever.
  
• shoe polish - $7.50.. but I am sure you can get it cheaper.
  
• brush - $3.50
  
  also check out allen edmonds site. they have cheap shoe care products and free shipping.

Ok. The daily questions thread is the place for this - Here's today's thread.

But I might be able to help. Those don't really look that bad! Have you tried using any product on them? I would think that multiple light coats of Bick 4 would do a great job of nutrifying the leather and restoring a bit of the natural softness, etc.

There is also neatsfoot oil which is great for leathers that have seen better days. I use it to restore a pair of absolutely trashed boat shoes every year and the stuff can work wonders, with the caveat that it can/will darken the leather a bit.

I have been using THIS for my interior (dashboard and door panels). So far I am liking it.

I heard positive reviews of 303 Spray

Which one do you recommend? Or is there any product more best bang for my buck?

Thank you!

The free way to perhaps help would be to clean your gaskets along the doors/hood/ and windows as well as their mating surfaces with just warm soapy water and rinsing them off. You could also buy a quality water-based gasket conditioner to treat them with after cleaning them to counteract any drying out with something like this or this!

So I got my belt signed by Big Z this weekend at a seminar after Maryland's Strongest Man

Signed belt here

I can now log press 200kg thanks all to the good mojo now in this belt....lol

But in all seriousness, I had this EliteFTS belt signed this weekend on the outside on the back. It is a smooth leather finish on the outside, so I am a bit concerned about making sure the signature stays there for as long as possible without fading or smudging.

I had him use a Sharpie permanent marker so realistically it should be good. However, ideally I'd like to continue to use this belt, as it is my only belt for overhead/front carry events I have (I have an Inzer ratchet belt as well but the ratchet gets in the way on log/keg/front carries).

Is it stupid of me to think it is possible for me to continue using this belt without ruining the signature? I looked up a few things via google and saw that some people used this with leather to maintain signatures. Anyone have any experience with that?

Any tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks guys!

cloth sounds like the best. Yeah, my feet's gonna have to stand myself up while I do that.

http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Leather-Oil-oz-Restores/dp/B002Q907QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457734045&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=obenauf+leather+oil#productDetails

So these aren't that better? I heard another user rave about how they're good. Bee's Wax sounds too much lol. I might just get the 8 oz Lexol then.

Thanks for answering :D

I've had a lot of luck with this on some old golf cart plastic trim. It is a dye though, tape around it and grab some gloves. Be careful.

Thisis easier to find and easier to work with.

There's a great (inkfor trim reviews on the wiki. He has a 6 month update on all products there as well.



Edit: formatting

Well, conditioner is like an oil, and has other stuff to help protect the leather.

This is what I use, and was recommended by many people who use light leather. You need to use a bit of elbow grease though, since it might not soak in as well as most oils if you just let it sit there. Its consistency is that of hair conditioner.

You can also find it at any saddle store, and probably good leather retailers.

I have a bag that came w/ untreated rawhide leather, and a few items with treated leather. I use Apple Brand Leather Cleaner & Conditioner on all of them. It helps prevent stains and from the turning the leather too fast, or almost completely preserving it.

Just throwing it out there in case you or anyone else ever buys a new leather case and would like to keep the original color. It also works really well on water spots and oil stains.

Edit: Apple 🍎 & Apple 🍏 Brand Leather Care... Coincidence? LOL

Hello fellow Camaro, I like einszett products for my interior. link 1 link 2

I drive my car year round and these products work really well. The deep cleaner is of course the stronger of the two, but I've had good luck with it on my door sill plastic and my weathertech floor mats.

I have also heard good things about Griot's Garage and Lexol for leather products.

Lexol has a combo kit that is pretty good for interiors. I know a buddy that uses it.

Which of the CG leather care products do you use? Sometimes they have so many similar products that it can be hard to find the right one.

This is great for waterproofing leather boots, but keep in mind that it will definitely change the color of the leather.

I used to buy a Sno-Seal, but I came up with a similar recipe to OP's and started using that. Works great, and can be reapplied every couple of years to keep the leather supple.

I have a cheap car and so I’m not familiar with the brands that sell carseat conditioner, but if it’s the good quality kind of conditioner that doesn’t leave gunk in the pores of the leather, you should be good.

This is a nice one that works for both shoes and car seats.

Glad to help! Other reviews of the shoes kept mentioning that maybe conditioning would help make the leather feels more like auth but didn't review in depth so I was nervous myself before I tried it out.

I use this Apple brand cleaner and conditioner on all my shoes and handbag! (US, unaffiliated link). People from the r/goodyearwelt and other leather subreddits recommended them as a standard choice, and it's worked well for me so far.

Check out Lexol Vinylex - it’s a cleaner and protectant in one. Have been using it for years and already done my model 3 seats. Looks great - gives the seats a bit of a lustre without being too wet or slick looking. Just apply it sparingly on a Microfiber and wipe it into the seats until the finish looks uniform. A little goes a long way. You can do all the trim and dash with it as well! I swear I don’t work for these guys just really happy with the product.
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301126000-Vinylex-Protectant-16-9/dp/B0002KKHS8

Ohh I see! By the way is the right one to buy? Lexol 1215 Vinylex Protectant, 16.9-oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKHS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MtFUzbYZ8GHB7 and by the way dumb question but will this only look good on dark canvas or will it help my neverfull damier azur have the shine a bit too :)

Prep your boots:

Knock back the finish a bit with some diluted dish soap and a scrub brush. Set them aside to dry.

Apply some Sno-Seal liberally with rag or brush. Allow to set. For the first coat, I like to hit it with a hairdryer to let it get into the leather's pores and all the nooks and crannies where boot meets sole.

Apply a second coat of Sno-Seal and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Now get an applicator brush, a polish brush and a wax matching the color of your boots. Kiwi is a good brand, I've been using it for years.

Swirl your applicator brush around in the tin of wax and then apply it to your boots in a vigorous circular pattern. Pay attention to the areas around the crevices (such as in the instep). Let it set for a few minutes and then brush it down with the polishing brush in a vigorous back-and forth motion. Do NOT rub hard with the polishing brush - you're trying to bring it to a shine / gloss, not rub it off.

With the base coat of Sno-Seal and a good layer of wax over it you should be good for all winter. Wipe off any dirt / snow / mud before storing them in the spring, then repeat the process above in the fall.

Source: Army veteran, live in the Pacific Northwest. Many of my boots are over a decade old or more.

EDIT

For anyone following along, I reconditioned my 16-year old Vasque Sundowner boots this morning as they needed it. Questions welcomed.

Wheels: Sonax Full Effect

Doors cards: Folex.

Interior: Chemical Guys Nonsense (Dilute first)

Protection: 303 Aerospace.

Dis-colorization: The Nonsense cleaner will work but if you want to get a super deep clean, 1z deep plastic cleaner

Leather Care Mini Review: I used Apple Brand leather cleaner to treat the color transfer on my light-colored Drew; I've been using it as my daily bag for a month. I gently cleaned it twice with the included cloth, and it looks 95% better. There was no darkening of the bag's leather color, and none of the bag's leather color came off on the cloth. I'll be conditioning later today with the conditioner from the set I linked above. I've also ordered the rain and stain repellent which I'll likely test out on some suede boots next week.

Griot's Garage would be my go to general interior cleaner. Virtually no odor, no residue and cleans phenomenally.

Chemical Guys make a decent product as well. I wouldn't say it's an as effective cleaner as Griot's but does offer UV protection. CG's cleaner does have a fruity smell (fades after a few hours) and is colored as well.

Haven't had to use it in the BRZ (thankfully) but in past cars and friends, for the suuuuper filthy or large stains, Tuff Stuff's Foam Cleaner is a go to.

Other than that, compressed air for the nooks and crannies.

They'll only take a week or two to break in if you wear them all day. I picked up some Lexol leather conditioner for my Top Siders based on recommendations here and elsewhere. Really awesome results – softer leather that's a little darker and much richer in color.

My top was kinda doing the same, the gray was dust.

So I looked for advice and decided to get Roll-Off and then 303 Protectorant.

I washed the top with car soap and rinsed, then I scrubbed it with a horsehair brush and the Roll-Off, and rinsed it and dried it. After that I got a detail rag and then sprayed a generous amount of the 303 Protecterant and wiped it all over. It looks really nice now and the dark color is back.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FSDZTU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the leather conditioner in the green bottle. A little goes a long way! I just use an old towel. A couple coats seems to be the trick. And patience. There are a lot of YouTube videos some helpful some not! Towel conditioner and small circles like polishing anything is my method! I keep paper towels around to wipe off the conditioner when inevitably get it on the hardware also 😂

This

Doesn't look like a complete tear, more like a scuff with the substrate ok.

You can get vinyl repair goop and texture paper pretty cheap and it works ok - practice on an unseen bit (maybe the underside of the couch?) to get the right color mix and used to the product. For example: http://www.amazon.com/3M-08579-Leather-Vinyl-Repair/dp/B0058WXNOK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377473679&sr=8-7&keywords=vinyl+repair

Haven't used the 3M product, and it's been years since I did a repair, but I remember being surprised and pleased at how well it worked out - maybe because the damage looked so bad I didn't have high/gotta be invisible expectations.

Sorry, but that's definitely composite or bonded leather. It's a vinyl layer on top of some kind of fabric, and they all inevitably peel. A leather/vinyl repair kit like this will be a temporary fix. Long term fix - don't buy vinyl couches.

K I've read several people use that car guys super cleaner. Is that all you put on your interior ever or do I need to add a UV protector after like 303 UV protectant?

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=303+aerospace&qid=1573275554&s=automotive&sr=1-2

Is it sticky? If not, it's highly likely that it "stained" because it's actually conditioning the plastic, which is technically good for it. Go buy yourself a can of plastic conditioner and do all of your faded plastic. Your Jeep will shine and look newer, and you'll never be able to tell you were egged.

Edit: like this stuff. You can get it pretty much anywhere with an auto section.


(8000 edits later because I forgot how to link format...more coffee, please.)

I was recommended Apple Leather Care & Conditioner by someone else here when I bought an old Coach Court bag. Worked really well and cleaned my bag up nicely.

Pressure wash with This pressure washer
Foam cannon from Amazon [Foam cannon](http://www.MATCC.com/ Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrJmzb8PWHAQH)
Then I used regular 2 bucket car wash with grit guard from Amazon, speed shine (2 towels), spray wax, vacuum, interior cleaner, leather conditioner, plastic conditioner, and spray window cleaner.

All the products I use are griots garage... Really good quality stuff.

[Speed shine](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 11146SP Speed Shine - 35 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KuJmzbF11YMYS)
[Interior cleaning ](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lvJmzbYGA8QRT)
[Spray wax](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10962 Spray-On Wax - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WvJmzb2DC8ZAZ)
[Wash soap](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10866 Brilliant Finish Car Wash - 64 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA2LMVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwJmzbPEEQTMQ)

Just keep going down the griot's line up... High quality all around. Cheers

You can get replacement tires for many G1 toys. Just search Amazon for "rubber tires model car" and there are plenty of options. Just measure the size of the tires you need and find something suitable.

You can also find diecast toy cars at places like Walmart for $2-3 that have rubber tires that are compatible with some G1 toys.

You can also use some rubber seal protectant to keep the tires of your toys from drying out. Just use it sparingly.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2

You can also get replacement tires for RID Prime on Shapeways:

• https://www.shapeways.com/product/QUDQKJFPW/fire-convoy-big?optionId=59112847
  
• https://www.shapeways.com/product/8BC9B2CAB/fire-convoy-small?optionId=61226601

Honestly, give Trinova Plastic and Trim Restorer a shot. I recently detailed a 2008 Honda Pilot with grayish trim. I'd bought this stuff on a whim bc it was on sale. It's thick, a little goes a looong way, and it brought back the black.

Don't know how long it'll last on 10 year old trim, but if yours is in good condition, should last a long time.

$12 a bottle and I went through very little. I bet you could get 12 car's worth of applications out of it.

TriNova Trim

Honda Pilot Trim Before and After

Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.

Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.

Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.

Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.

De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.

>Doors freeze shut when it’s cold.

Yeah, I know, right? It normally happens when you have a slightly warmer day (enough to allow some melted snow to get into the door's track) followed by a much colder night. Next morning, frozen door. It's not the glass or the seal freezing, it's the water. Adding a lubricant to the seal usually does the trick. Someone above recommended the following, sound like a plan for those in a colder climate.

303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JBh7Bb00V3DRV

Something like this for the leather works good, use it on my car periodically. Also something like this for the plastic trim, and you're all set.

Personally, I love Bickmore no. 4. I just squirt some right onto the shoes and then rub in circles with a paper towel. My boat shoes/Docs/ankle boots look and feel amazing after.

Yes, here's a link to the laces: Boot Laces. They are just about the perfect width for the small sebenza.

​

After I made the knot I put some of this on the whole thing which made the laces considerably more supple.

Hey guys just wanted to drop off some results for Lexol vinyl protector spray. The heart vernis cles is a bottom tier ioffer rep and the toiletries is fubar888's mid tier rep. I think the sheen substantially improves the look! I might make a guide with some befores/afters for some rep care/results if I get some more protectors/cleansers.

I haven't used it myself, but a lot of people tend to recommend Lexol Leather Conditioner if you just want to protect the leather without any discoloration. Keep in mind it does not repel water like Obenauf's or other beeswax products would.

Some popular options on PurseForum are Collonil spray/gel and the Apple Leather Care kit (for cleaning before spray) + Apple Rain & Stain Repellent!

Break fluid dissolves.. a lot of things.. so you may need something more aggressive to get it back to a uniform coloring. Though, I've used black plastic polish with success in spots similar to this before: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G15812-Ultimate-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B0055PD1H4

/r/AutoDetailing might be a good resource for this!

I use the Lexol kit (after many recommendations) on my leather and vinyl and really love it so far. The leather conditioner works well to soften it up. Dont know how far gone your leather is....but I'm sure others will chime in as there are a few other good products, but I only have experience with Lexol and my car is only a year old.

I used this here on my rep PSM from TS Apple and also on my auth key pouch, oh and my rep PM from OC, and it makes it look soooo much better. I highly recommend using it.

There's a kit for it...and I don't know the name. I assume go to Amazon and look up trim kit.

Edit: dammit i looked it up for you:

Amazon Link

Scrub the surface with a good de-greaser and rinse it well, scrub a couple times until the suds no longer change color and apply this product and they will look like new.

Not permanent once again, but it will last longer than most (1-2 weeks).

Also contains a sunscreen.

Make sure you shake it well each time before using.

You need to put several coats.

Be careful to avoid the car's paint areas.

Obenhauf's leather preservative is fairly popular on /r/leathercraft. I use it on all of my straps, and as mentioned, it does darken the color for awhile, but it works wonders for keeping the sweat out. Sno Seal is another popular product, but I haven't personally used that.

I highly suggest staying away from any petroleum based product for your trim and tires. You want something that will provide UV protection and won't break down the plastic over time. 303 Products are fantastic and will extend the life of your plastic trim, tires, and rubber.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A

Fyi you can use black plastic restoration stuff (link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055PD1H4) and seal it with armor all to restore it to the factory coloring. I used it on my JKU and as long as you apply the armor all occasionally I haven't had mine fade. I have found that dirt from off roading does bake on and fade the plastic if you leave it but hosing it off right after you go can save you from that.

I have read (even in non-Tesla forums) that using something like this helps the window from sticking to the rubber seals.

303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JBh7Bb00V3DRV

There are many options on amazon that help with freezing. Or so they say.

This stuff is your best bet. Forget lemon pledge and other multi-surface polish that leaves a greasy residue and has fragrance. Plastic trim restorer is specifically manufactured for restoring plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/

I’ve tried a ton and think this one works the best!

Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387042&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather

Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387140&sr=8-2&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash

For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387101&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0

Dash protectant, I use 303.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387193&sr=8-4&keywords=303+protectant

Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.

Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.

After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.

So far, so good with this stuff:

Lexol E301126000 Vinylex Protectant, 16.9 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKHS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zpVtDbZK101WC

Use it on all our cars, best thing I've found for all the black plastic bits.

Something like this might help

Thanks! Couple questions:

When you say you wipe off salt stains with vinegar you mean applying standard cooking vinegar to a shoe rag and rubbing around to try to get the salt stain out?

And are these the products you use: Obenauf's Leather Oil during normal times and then apply their heavy duty leather protector for the rough weather?

Most RW leather conditioners are made for oil tanned leather and not for the smooth leather of Beckmans. You should only use the RW products listed here. I use Lexol on my Beckmans and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Seal-Original-Waterproofing-Protector/dp/B00O9OA01W

you don't need to shine your work boots, just some waterproofing every other year or so if you even need it.

Lexol is great if they start to dry/crack.

Thank you guys! Question-- should I get both the cleaner and the conditioner and apply both or should I just condition it?

And this is the correct product right? https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-1015N-Leather-Conditioner-16-9-oz/dp/B000QFORK8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474643721&sr=8-2&keywords=lexol&th=1

I read an article on The Cut, and they recommended this Apple brand leather conditioner that apparently a lot of people praise. They also sell a protector/water repellant that you can also find on Amazon.

This stuff is easy to apply and works well:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Black-Restorer-Protect/dp/B0055PD1H4/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2UW3B51KKNVFJ&keywords=plastic+restorer&qid=1569526006&sprefix=plastic+res%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-18

Guess I should try it, the leather on mine does feel kinda dry. Lots of water/liquid stains on it too, seems to be the only thing actually darkening the leather, haha.

So this definitely doesn't change the leather color? The conditioner?

https://www.amazon.com/Apple-brand-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B002626OLY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537895228&sr=8-2&keywords=apple+brand+leather+conditioner

Is this the right one?

Any brands that are good? Thinking about this pack on Amazon

Apple brand leather cleaner and conditioner is pretty great. Though the stain size on the purse is daunting to me.

I use this. I’ve been slowly conditioning all of my vintage leather bags over the last couple days and it’s made a noticeable difference. My bags feel super soft and buttery afterwards.

This will be my first rep purse purchase so I'm excited! Do you know if Anna has a yupoo album? For the leather conditioner, maybe you can ask from any shoe stores like Aldo or you can buy one from Amazon. I see Cadillac brand always mentions here on RL. https://www.amazon.ca/Cadillac-Boot-Shoe-Care-Fl/dp/B008VJ95JE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=cadillac+leather+conditioner&qid=1563635334&s=gateway&sprefix=Cadillac+le&sr=8-1

There are vinyl repair kits you can buy. There's this kind, which is a kind of filler that can be used to fill in scratches and which bonds to the vinyl, and this, which has several components (watch the video).

I've never used any of them, but I figure that with black upholstery it should be easy to make the repair completely invisible.

Brian of Role Club fame uses this in combination with with a Mexican brand of shoe polish called El Oso (comes in neutro/neutral). Might be worth a shot if you're trying to keep costs down. Brian knows his stuff.

In that case, my back up is Griot's Garage products.

Griot's Garage 10975 Interior Detailer

Griot's Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner

Griot's Garage 10994 Leather Care Spray

303 is great stuff. That's what I use. My 2003 is still original top but I've had to patch it in a couple of small spots, due to wear from the bars.

This is what I was referring to for the door and window seals: 303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LDIAbS9Y0J4B

https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-Acrylic-Resolene-Oz-Protects/dp/B008ROOKIO/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=feibings&qid=1572030289&sr=8-2

This stuff. I put some on my LV pieces and they look amazing! It doesn't come off easy and application is fast. Just dilute it with some water and dab it on with a sponge.

I highly recommend Sno-seal to waterproof leather boots. I've been using it for years and it works really well. It doesn't harden like pure beeswax does.

I usually just warm up the boots in the oven, on low heat, then rub it in with a rag. The first treatment often requires more than one application.

http://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Seal-Original-Waterproofing-Protector/dp/B00O9OA01W?th=1&psc=1

All right, so this or this? And should I get an applier like this, or can I just use a regular sponge?

Resolene helps with sheen and a bit with how it feels, there is a "how to" post, you'll have to search for it


Fiebings-Acrylic Resolene Dye Top Finish 4oz-Neutral,Protects Leather Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ROOKIO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_MJr-AbM9TSGE6

If you want to be really thorough, you should clean your boots using saddle soap, polish them up, and then buff the hell out of them using a boar bristle brush. You can even use old, thick nylons to get a really high shine.

Leather conditioner is a good thing to use in between cleanings. I really like this stuff.

Also, if they're experiencing a lot of rain, snow, mud, etc., you might want to consider applying some kind of extra protectant.

Thorogood 814-4200 American Heritage moc toe [album]

Got these recently, worn only a few times, They come oil tanned but I oiled with Lexol neatsfoot after my first couple of wears to prevent cracking, especially on the top of the toe box. To my surprise it actually works without darkening the original color.

No easy way to fix those scuffs and divots. Some of those spots will need to be sand, fill, and repaint. You may be able to remove very light marks with product like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004B8EUI0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

> you should periodically add rubber protector or conditioner to the weather stripping / seal to keep it conditioned.

Had never heard of this, so I went and bought this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T44D1R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the heads up!

Alright here is what I found. Resolene. It seals the leather and keep the dye from transferring. I have no idea where you from. But I can get it cheap on Amazon here.

Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene, 4 Oz. - Protects Leather Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ROOKIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WZfRBbSS8RVXE
I will get it and try to apply it at the bottom of the backpack and let’s see how it goes. I’ll keep you posted!

Apple leather conditioner 😁

Will this Frye Weatherproof Dressing be good for conditioning my leather shoes?

https://www.amazon.com/Cadillac-Boot-Leather-Lotion-2-pack/dp/B00B621Z5K

Hope this helps.

Jason *Markk

here are 2 sprays that are better though, the reviews speak for themselves:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N37A4E4/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6F9KXG/

best there is. . Significantly better that armor all products in my opinion.

applying some sno-seal would probably be a smart idea

On Amazon, there are two :

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection

​

And one with:

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?

​

Which one do you all prefer???

I use 303 for this. They make a product specifically for rubber trim but I just use the regular protectant spray on a microfiber towel. Works well.

The pictures are of the boots before I conditioned them. As for what I used, I use the conditioner I purchased for my RM Williams, it's their own brew. If you contact Truman Boot Co. they will recommend Bickmore Bick 4

For leather there's really only one line of products you should be using. It's Lexol. http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner-Vinylex/dp/B002ZBPXGS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1456935629&sr=1-2&keywords=lexol+leather+care+kit

Lots of car manufacturers recommend this.

depending on their state will change the answer. You can get them replaced. You could also use something like meguiars back to black to "paint" them black again.

https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G15812-Ultimate-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B0055PD1H4

Something like this: 303 Rubber Seal Conditioner?

Hi there, sorry to bump an old post but had a quick question. How does the venetian balm differ from this Frye waterproof dressing? I have a pair of boots made in the same material and Frye recommended I use this wax, but I much prefer how your boots look treated with the Venetian.

Do you mean the 303 protectant, or an interior cleaner from 303?

Just asking because you may mentioned cleaner, so you might be comparing apples to oranges... explaining such a gap in performance.

I use Griots Garage Interior Cleaner it cleans really well. And it can be used on all the surfaces in the car. I just follow it up with some conditioner to keep the leather soft.

Made the switch to a pair of Kinco work mittens last season: https://www.amazon.com/901T-Heatkeep-Thermal-Premium-Pigskin/dp/B00RW287N6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1478540118&sr=8-4&keywords=kinco

slapped on some sno seal: https://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Seal-Original-Waterproofing-Protector/dp/B00O9OA01W/ref=cts_ap_2_vtp?_encoding=UTF8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2601945442&pf_rd_r=YNCD4EZZKBMXKB1N2Y28&pd_rd_wg=atkxZ&pf_rd_s=desktop-detail-softlines&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_i=B00O9OA01W&pd_rd_w=90S7J&pf_rd_i=desktop-detail-softlines&pd_rd_r=YNCD4EZZKBMXKB1N2Y28

now they're almost too warm!

Thanks! The rubber and trim is all NLA— I'll look into what plasti-dipping it would take. I also need to take the roof rack down, remove all the chipping paint (what's left if it, anyway), and then re-paint it. Have you used Meguiar's Black Plastic Restorer?

For power washing, am I doing it right? Can I use more pressure? Just looking for some guidance, since I'm just doing what seems mostly right without much knowledge of if it really is right.

I used this one recommended by another user on RepLadies: Obenauf's Leather Oil 8 oz. - Restores Dry Leather - Made in the US https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q907QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nPhu3cWiIFjhB

You can buy a kit meant for leather and vinyl repair, but it's nearly impossible to match and hide a large area like that. KIT

Yep, made for the interior (leather, plastics, etc) and it also products from UV. Originally designed for boats.

https://smile.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "KIT"



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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

https://smile.amazon.com/Venetian-Shoe-Cream-Ounces-Neutral/dp/B00QKXAGXW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549726828&sr=8-5&keywords=venetian+shoe+cream

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https://smile.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-16/dp/B001CS8G3C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549726850&sr=8-3&keywords=bick+4

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I apologize, those links are for a lot smaller quantity than 32 Oz.

This one is for a 32 Oz. can, but it's asking for $9 shipping.

https://smile.amazon.com/Fore-Supply-Co-Neutral-Venetian/dp/B00A6GAT0Y/ref=pd_sbs_309_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A6GAT0Y&pd_rd_r=2607ced0-2c81-11e9-888f-47f1b1d850e8&pd_rd_w=AFB3V&pd_rd_wg=8FnGV&pf_rd_p=588939de-d3f8-42f1-a3d8-d556eae5797d&pf_rd_r=1MKFN2KWN4KQZCVPFMRG&psc=1&refRID=1MKFN2KWN4KQZCVPFMRG

Next time you wash your bike wear the boots and power wash them. Waterproof spray i use works well

https://www.amazon.com/Apple-Brand-Repellent-Conditioner-Protector/dp/B00B6F9KXG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1TNQ74HUC8I49&keywords=waterproof+spray+for+shoes&qid=1557767854&s=gateway&sprefix=Waterproof+sp%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I had this problem as well, took it back to the dealer and had them get it off (unfortunately I can’t remember exactly what they did). Once it was off you could still see the faded outlines, so I applied 303 UV Protectant on it every couple of weeks since then and the marks have completely gone away.

Here's my post from a few months back...

http://www.amazon.com/Bickmore-Bick-Leather-Conditioner-Ounces/dp/B001CS8G3C

This is the most recommended over at /r/goodyearwelt. I use Obenauf's oil on my boots. I think it'll darken things more than the Bick's will.

if its coated canvas, I have seen many people recommending Lexol Vinylex. I literally just ordered mine for $8 from Amazon for my Pochette Metis:) Here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301126000-Vinylex-Protectant-16-9/dp/B0002KKHS8/ref=pd_cp_469_1?pd_rd_w=7vBm7&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=P86XHHZC0JKHR54D4KCT&pd_rd_r=74b9cda1-694d-491c-b273-abd93477d39b&pd_rd_wg=tqRlG&pd_rd_i=B0002KKHS8&psc=1&refRID=P86XHHZC0JKHR54D4KCT

I would clean it with light abrasion (microfiber towel is probably ok) and any sort of all purpose cleaner. I'm not sure if it's reversible, but there are products that are meant for that sort of material. If you google "gummi pflege" you should find a couple. I personally have this stuff but haven't used it a whole lot.

I used this leather oil from amazon. I will post pics of the patina later today!

Ha, well that's annoying. How's this link. No, you only need to condition them when the leather starts to feel dry.

You should use Cadillac Boot & Shoe Leather Lotion the SA at Saks recommended it for my authentic Chanel

I ride a leather Burton glove. Leather gloves don't breath very well, so setting them out to dry after riding is important.

First I use dawn dish soap in the kitchen sink to wash them.

Next, Lexol leather conditioner so the leather isn't left dry.

Finish off with Nikwax waterproofing to make them stay dry.

This is my go to Griot’s Interior Cleaner

Perfect..

Is it this one?
Griot's Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner 22oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PRC5CbX019R8Z

Plastic & Trim Restorer - Dye-Free Formula Shines & Darkens Worn Out Plastic, Vinyl & Rubber Surfaces - Protects Cars & Motorcycles from Rain, Salt & Dirt - Prevent Fading - 8 OZ - TriNova https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3wurzbYS5F3SS


This stuff worked better than back to black for me. I usually put one coat all around and let it dry, then go for another coat.

Depends on where you work, if your job is selling something to someone you might want to dress up in suit and tie, or if you're upper management that might be a requirement.

I can tell you all the places I've worked (~200 employee construction/engineering companies) old carharts, costco flannels and comfort shoes seem to be common from the grunts to the company owners.

If you'll be in an office, not interacting with clients on a daily basis, you might go with a nice pair of dark chino's, and a gingham button up, but skip the tie and jacket. Clarks desert boots for office work, but if you'll be running around outdoors you might invest in some Redwing Iron Rangers. For warmth, think several layers instead of some massive parka.

I think some of the best places to shop are going to be Nordstrom's, Banana Republic, Gap, and if you can stomach it, JCPenney (they have a good selection of Levi's at least). Costco is good for thermals, and cheap thick socks. I'd suggest checking out /r/malefashionadvice and be prepared to buy online and get things tailored.

Avoid Sears, Old Navy, American Eagle, Abercrombie, and Burlington's, low quality and you'll have to replace it next year.

Stallone's is a local menswear shop but really their selection is for fat old men who want to mask the shape of their body, and have no idea why someone would want "tailored" or "fitted" clothing. Plus their commissioned salesmen are hit or miss, as far as how pushy they are.

Boot Country is great for getting Vibram soles on your dress shoes but you can also hit up Fireweed Shoe Repair (I'd avoid Era's, they nearly destroyed my Wolverine 1000 Miles).

It's easy to overdress here, we were voted the worst dressed city back in 2012:

http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/americas-worst-dressed-people/2

Edit: as far as boots and backup shoes, I tried this for awhile, and it was a pain in the ass, just get some SnoSeal and do a layer, let it dry overnight, then do a second layer

Edit2: Aaand I just read your username and now realize this guide really only works for guys

for vegan leather seats, this is exactly what you want:


https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GRDHIASW5YHM&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant&qid=1563372732&s=gateway&sprefix=303+%2Cautomotive%2C284&sr=8-5

This is the one I use. Works great, no complaints.

My shell feels dry, should I use this?

Use some Lexol on it and it will look so much better.

Lexol Leather Conditioner

"MakersOnRocks" posting about sperries. TFM. Anyway, when you're cleaning them, put some of this shit on there after following the other peoples' advice. It really works wonders.

if its real leather then i would just use leather conditioner. (luckily I have some from my boots) check this out.

If not I'll let someone else answer.

I use Lexol:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFORK8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Leather conditioner. I use Lexol on my preowned leather purses and it makes them much more supple

Leather Honey for regular maintenance and Bickmore No.4 after thorough cleaning with Bickmore No.1

OBs Leather Oil. Once every few months... they are due for a lather.

Some OTC stuff you can try are Mother's back to black or Meguiars Ultimate Black

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Black-Restorer-Protect/dp/B0055PD1H4

Yes, it says its for black plastics, but it works for many more colors :).

Get some black trim restorer. Had this same issue and bought some of this and cleaned it right up.

This is what you need:

Meguiar's G15812 Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055PD1H4/

Meguiar's G15812 Ultimate Black Plastic Restorer - 12 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055PD1H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YFVOBbZXKR3GJ

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08579-Leather-Vinyl-Repair/dp/B0058WXNOK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404186195&sr=8-2&keywords=vinyl+patch+repair+kit

Here is what you need.

Maybe

If I am having issues with color bleeding or transfer, I will apply some Resolene to the products.

I will dilute it 1:1 with water and apply with a blue shop towel. Apply a coat, let it dry for about and hour and reapply a second coat.

I suggest a coat of Resolene:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ROOKIO

Google 'Resolene' on youtube for tips on how to apply.

In your opinion, would this product work?

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https://www.amazon.ca/Fiebings-Acrylic-Resolene-Finish-Neutral/dp/B008ROOKIO/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=leather+finish+acrylic&psc=1&qid=1572368124&sr=8-1

https://smile.amazon.com/Fiebings-Acrylic-Resolene-4oz-Neutral-Protects-Leather/dp/B008ROOKIO?sa-no-redirect=1

This works to slow that down

I use these methods Right now I’m using this brand

I just have a pair of Timberlands that I put this on

To waterproof your boots you can use:

SNO-SEAL

Obenauf HD/LP

They will both darken your both considerably

Have you tried applying this product to the rubber seals? Obviously you shouldn't have to, but it helped significantly quiet down my panoramic sunroof seals.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2

https://smile.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2?sa-no-redirect=1

Is this what you're looking for?

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/

http://www.amazon.com/303-30324-Rubber-Seal-Protectant/dp/B00T44D1R2/

Is there a difference between 303 rubber seal protectant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T44D1R2 )and the normal aerospace protectant other than the applicator bottle and the price?

Which one of these for door seals that are sticky?

nextzett


303 Rubber seal

If anyone is concerned about a cracking dash in 2019, use a UV protectant or tint your windows.

303 and done

You can use this stuff. The guys over at /r/autodetailing rave about it.

This is what I used

I use all 303 products on my interior bits :

UV Protector:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30218-Automotive-Conditioner-Protectant/dp/B0185PU34O/

Leather Cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Automotive-Protectant-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/

Seat Cloth:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30616-Fabric-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B0000AY69N/

Even with this my driver side left leg-bolster is showing quite a bit of wear in 7k miles/10 months. All the leather in the car has a nice matte-finish but that bolster is very shiny and the texture has almost worn completely away from getting in/out of the car, pretty disappointed.

It's tough since it's such a big hole and not just a rip...I think you could probably use a leather/vinyl repair kit and a piece of pleather/vinyl that you cut to mostly fill the hole that has worn away, you'd just have to be patient with it.

Or if you don't want to fuss with them too much, you could try something like these. I don't know if they would be uncomfortable or change the sound output, but they're cheap enough that they may be worth a shot.

These boots are currently down to $160 from $425. (I guess the tumbled leather wasn't a huge seller.)
https://www.allenedmonds.com/shoes/mens-boots/lace-up-boots/higgins-mill-boot-with-tumbled-leather/SF7539.html?dwvar_SF7539_color=7540#start=1

plus

https://www.gobros.com/darn-tough-socks-mens-hiking-boot-sock-full-cushion-charcoal-dt1405.html

plus

https://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Seal-Original-Waterproofing-Protector/dp/B00O9OA01W

If worried about the trying the heatgun option (which does work, see vids on youtube), you might start with Meguiar's Ultimate Black or Mother's Back to Black.

Leather reacts adversely to being soaked in water and then dried. Think about how your hands dry out if you wash them a ton. Same concept. If you're using hot water in the wash cycle and putting them in the dryer, it makes it even worse.

As far as fixing it, apply some conditioner, like Lexol, to the leather.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_17?crid=1EFS4NLOZAJ5Q&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant&qid=1555941043&s=automotive&sprefix=303+aerospace%2Cautomotive%2C135&sr=1-17

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anyone try 303's UV protectant?

​

also if i use the regular 303 and buy by the gallon there isnt anything inherently special about the spray bottle correct? gallon is $37 while 32oz spraybottle is $20...

Not a problem! I probably read it in the wrong tone. I had to patina my speedy when I got it because there was slight color transfer from my pants onto the strap. I used this in case you ever need to start the patina process faster. I would rather use this instead of olive oil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q907QU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's tough especially for a bag that you use regularly. Wear is going to be near impossible to avoid, which is why I rotate my bags often. You can take preventative measures by pre-treating the leather with sprays or some sort of protectant. I've used Chamberlain's Leather Milk. Depending on the finish of the leather and to ensure it doesn't cause staining or other adverse effects, I would test it on a small patch first. I've never had any issues with traditional coated leather. As for the corners specifically, after it starts showing damage, I'm not sure there's anything that can be done other than to minimize the appearance. Be sure to condition your bag. My favorites ones are Cadillac and Apple. If it's a black bag, I've also used colored shoe polish from Meltonian or Kiwi to cover up discoloration. For the really tough jobs, a cobbler is the way to go.

Mineral oil might work, it depends on the rubber. There's a good chance that you could damage or ruin them too, just be aware of that going in.

Here are some other products that might work:https://smile.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-408A-125ML-Rubber-Liquid/dp/B008O9X3KS/

https://smile.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2/


Edit: I was assuming they were older speakers and the reason the rubber was stiff was from drying out/hardening over time. If these are new speakers (i.e. the rubber is less than a decade or two old) you really shouldn't be trying to soften them up.

I use this apple leather cleaner on my old dirty speedy handles and it took off a lot of the dirt.

I just got my new pair of Red Wing Backman Round in black. I'm just getting started in GYW boots and care practices. I have a bottle of Bick 4 on the way for my Iron Rangers in copper rough & tough. Would that also be good for the Beckman 9014's? Or should I pick up a bottle of Saphir Creme in black? I know they won't need conditioning for a while but I'm shopping for and doing research on products now.

My feet are going to hate me, breaking in Iron Rangers and Beckmans at the same time on alternating days...

I use Meguiars.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055PD1H4

It lasts as long as I don't hand wash the car. I have terribly hard water and it really streaks it up. It seems to holds up to the occasional car wash and rain. wash

I have used this stuff my whole life. The bad part is heating up the boots. Heat the oven up for a while. Don't heat the oven with the boots in there. I did that when I was young. And got to have a cobbler put on new uppers :( http://www.amazon.com/Atsko-Sno-Seal-Original-Waterproofing-Protector/dp/B00O9OA01W