Reddit mentions: The best automotive protectant care products

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

I'm reposting some suggestions I made from a previous similar thread, hope it works out for you (the last person's budget was $100; not sure what yours is, but you can pick and choose!)

 

Optimum No Rinse: Concentrated and capable of being diluted as a wash, quick detailer, clay lubricant, window cleaner, light interior cleaner, and more.

Optimum Opti-Seal: Incredibly easy to use sealant (wipe on and walk away!), can be used in place of RainX on windows, good drying aid, and useful as an interior dressing as well. Opti-seal ALL the things!

Detailing brushes: Because every detailer can use more brushes!

Nanoskin Autoscrub Sponge: Makes the process of decontaminating your paint much faster. Much longer life than clay and can be used even after dropped on the ground! Use the ONR as lubricant and you save tons of money.

The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless Towels, 4 pack: These will be the best towels he's ever used.

The total for all of this should be $97.96, just under your budget :)

 

A couple other suggestions if you want to mix and match:

Smaller Opti-Seal: Since it's the biggest budget item here and a little goes a long way, you can go with the small one to include more items in your bundle.

Adam's Wheel Cleaner: The least terrible smelling wheel cleaner, but extremely effective as well. Good if that truck throws a lot of brake dust.

CarPro PERL: For protecting exterior plastics as well as dressing them, and for use as a satin look tire dresing.

Wheel Woolies: Makes cleaning wheels a much nicer experience, and won't fling brake dust into your face like the brushes do.

Hope this helps! If you want any more specific recommendations for any category, feel free to ask! As for things to avoid, Armorall, Turtlewax and Chemical Guys in my opinion.

Figured my routine might be useful to people looking at this kind of thing:

For the interior I highly, highly recommend using Nextzett Cockpit Premium. I ordered like 23 different interior products off of Amazon and it was the only one I liked for a true matte look inside that didn’t smell weird. I use it on everything except the screen, and it really does a great job of cleaning without leaving behind shine or residue.

I use a Sunjoe pressure washer for the outside, and a foam cannon. I use Adams Ultra Foam on my wife’s M3, and on mine I use CarPro Reset (I have Xpel Stealth). I use the two bucket method after foaming the car down. The pressure washer is super easy to use and was a great investment.

I dry with an Adams Air Cannon and it’s amazing if you are washing your car in your garage or driveway. No messing with towels or possible scratches. It’s extremely powerful, I was pretty surprised. Plus the air is warm and filtered.

For wheels I use Griots Heavy Duty Wheel cleaner, with a Chemical Guys brush. I’ve never been a “clean your wheels” kind of guy before my Tesla, but it’s really easy to do.

For interior scent, I have tried countless products. It’s actually almost sad how many car scent products I have tried (not a smoker, just like a good smelling car). The only one that I would recommend is Ozium in the can, not aerosol. It has a light citrus smell that gets tons of compliments like “your car always smells so clean and fresh, not fake or like cologne”. The only other close contender is Dr Beasleys Leather, closely followed by their New Car Scent. It’s actually the only New Car scent I can stand. I settled on Ozium because it’s set and forget. I keep a small can in the front of my car, and a big can in the trunk.

I hate waterless washing for the most part (saving the planet aside) just because it’s never really as effective as a full wash without ten times the work. ONR is a good product though, and easy to use.

Best thing I ever did on both of our M3s is getting a professional ceramic coating put on. Washing is about ten times as easy as it was before, and drying is about 20x. Definitely recommend it, on both a wrapped or unwrapped car.

You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.

And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!

I was searching for info like you a few days ago because I wanted to treat my new '17 Audi A4 properly, and I'm sure you feel the same about your MB C300. Its a really nice car.

I ended up getting CQuartz UK w/ Reload and applying that after the claying/polishing/IPA.

CQuartz UK is a coating (different from wax and different from a sealant). It lasts longer than a sealant and I believe is a bit more durable than a sealant too. The two sealants mentioned by the other poster are totally fine and will look good and will do the job.

I chose the coating because I felt it would be more protective for the city, dust, etc and last longer. I was noticing a trend in a lot of nicer cars getting a coating instead, and then the CarPro reload is a sealant that bonds nicely work the CQuartz. Some coatings don't play nicely with other sealants.

My only tip is to work in small sections. Don't do the entire back side or hood all at once. CQuartz dried on me and didn't buff out nicely so I had to polish and start over on certain sections. You should wipe it off within 1-2 mins.

Wheels
------------

What I found out in regards to wheels was that people would take something like Collinite 845 wax or even a sealant like hydro2, any wax or sealant will do, and apply it to their wheels. I believe all it does is act as a small layer for the brake dust to land on and then it makes it a lot easier to take off/prevents it from getting caked on.

I clean my cars too often for the wheels to get all that dirty so I don't really do this as the brake dust comes off pretty easy unless you didn't wash your car for a year I guess.

I imagine you are going to be pretty obsessed over cleaning your MB for a while (I always am when I get a new car) so if you want to hold off on wasting product on your wheels you can. Its no use if you're gonna clean your car top to bottom every week/two weeks.

For dressing the tires, I use Opti-Bond tire gel.

Rubber/Plastic
--------

I settled on using CarPro PERL for dressing/protecting any plastic or rubber. It has UV protection in it and doesn't shine too much where it looks overly done.

Everything else
--

So I'm just gonna list off everything else I got and give a quick description on why

• Tire dressing application pad - it was cheap, I can use it over and over, and they were a different color from my other applicator pads so I don't mix it with other chemicals
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine - I live somewhere where I don't have access to running water outside and its very dusty here so this is a must after 2-3 weeks of my car gathering dust
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus - self explanatory, its a really popular/powerful/effective wheel cleaner. turns the brake dust red after like 3-5 mins and you wash it off or start agitating (get wheel woolies and a wheel well brush) to further get anything it missed off
  
• Platinum Pluffle Towel - I was trying to find a good drying towel and these work quite well
  
• Yellow foam applicator pads - these are for plastics, rubber, or interior protection. can also be used for applying wax/sealant to the rims. don't use these on paint
  
• CarPro Iron X - this is a really nice thing to use after claying your paint or after a wash. it shows iron deposits and basically decontaminates the car for when you apply a sealant/wax/coating (i spray it on car, wait a few minutes, then do another wash, then dry and do IPA)
  

I got the 2011, same color, package two, a few months after starting my first job out of college. I love it. You're going to love it. Perfect for commutes, perfect for weekend trips, perfect for toting people around (the back seats are surprisingly roomy!), perfect for hiding things in that little section underneath the trunk (I hide smelly gym stuff in there, and it contains the smell!).

this interior spray has become a favorite product of mine. Once a week, just spray it on a lint free rag and wipe the dash, wheel, and all the plastic areas up front to keep the car feeling super nice.

1. Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner is very good. Usually readily available (at least here in the states), and inexpensive and effective. The cleaner is very mild, so if you need something stronger to remove stubborn dirt you can try a diluted all purpose cleaner. Megiuar's is very safe for interior and can be diluted. I've also used Megiuar's Quick Interior Detailer and it works very well, and doesn't leave any sort of residue behind.
   
   
2. Try something like 303 Aerospace protectant or Cockpit Premium. https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92470515-Cockpit-Premium-16-9/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ They will leave behind UV protection without any greasy residue. Very good quality premium products.
   
   
3. Any cheap brush will do. More expensive brushes will just hold up better over time, not really worth it IMO if you are just cleaning your personal car. I use a couple of cheap brushes from Amazon and a couple of paint brushes and they work just fine. Whatever you can find locally for a good price. I have separate brushes for carpet, interior plastics, and a tire and wheel brush so I don't cross-contaminate. Also, you need a stiffer bristle for carpets than you do for plastics obviously.
   
   
4. Any microfiber from The Rag Company. I believe they just recently opened their Europe store last month. https://www.theragcompany.shop/
   
   
5. You don't need a steamer, it just makes things faster to clean. If you have dirty upholstery that needs to be cleaned, just use an all purpose cleaner diluted in a spray bottle, spray it down, let it sit for a few minutes, then blot clean with a rag. For carpets, you can do a bit of scrubbing with a brush first, and then blot dry with a rag to soak up moisture and remove the dirt. This video will show you how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OiO52BU256M
   
   Also, Larry from Ammo NYC has some amazing videos that are worth watching that will teach you a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0EOb2nEWtk&t=684s
   
   Hope this helps!

Congratulations for the new (to you) car! :)

A cigarette lighter USB charger like this one is very handy!

These are handy for the occasional cleaning. They work well and keep the car looking nice and in good condition!

Something like this is also wonderful if you want some tunage that isn't on tape/cd/radio!

Vroom Vroom!

Thanks for the contest! :D

Watch this for how to clean your seats.

For the rest of the interior like the dash, steering wheel and center console you want an All Purpose Cleaner and then a dressing/protectant to put on after. I like Optimum Power Clean and here's a review I recently did on it.

I use this as a dressing to protect afterwards. Note: most dressings including this one can leave behind a slippery/greasy residue so don't put it on your steering wheel.

The windows can be cleaned with glass cleaner then coated with rain-x or similar to make water bead off of it.

Here's a post I made on cleaning the engine on my Grandma's car. and here's mine after I did it. All you need to do is cover up any sensitive stuff that you don't want to get wet like the alternator or any exposed electrical connectors...I only did the alternator for mine. Then you rinse the entire engine bay lightly with a hose to knock off any loose dirt/grease/grime. Then you soak the whole thing with degreaser...I use this from Home Depot. Make sure you get it into all the small crevices where gunk builds up. Then agitate everything with a brush. I use this one and this one. Once you've scrubbed every inch of the engine bay and worked the degreaser into a foam it's time to rinse everything off with the hose again. The whole process takes only about 10 minutes. One important thing is to not let the degreaser dry on anything. shouldn't be a problem, but don't spray it on your engine then forget about it for a few hours. After a thorough rinse you can remove the bag from over the alternator and dry the engine. If you have a compressor then use it to blow dry all the water out of all the small places it collects in. If not then soak up as much as possible with an old towel then run your engine for a few minutes or drive around for a bit to dry out the rest of it. Then you can dress your engine with something like this or this.

Hope that helps and feel free to ask more questions!

All these products can be replaced with other similar products, these are just the ones that I personally use and like.

Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).

Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.

If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.


As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.

I use Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax every 2-3 months. I wash with Meguiars Wash & Wax in the winter or Gold Class during the rest of the year and then finish with X-Press Spray Wax to refresh my wax coat after every wash. I’ve found that Ford paint/clear coat absolutely loves Meguiars formulas and the routine I use keeps all my Fords shining like wet glass. I don’t use paste waxes or ceramic coatings anymore because they’re such a pain to remove when it’s time to reapply. Liquid wax goes on easy, shines for 2-3 months, and then comes of just as easy so it saves you a ton of time when you have two or three cars in your household to maintain.

Most wheel stuff is pretty much the same but I use Meguiars Hot Rims on my wheels and Hot Shine on my tires around once a month or after every other wash and it keeps them shining beautifully. Keeping a coat of Hot Rims on the wheels prevents brake dust from bonding to them so you can just spray them off to keep them clean between applications.

For my black plastic trim and weather stripping I use 303 Aerospace Protectant once in the fall and once in the spring and it keeps it looking like new plastic and not greasy or overly shiny. The 303 has UV protection that prevents fading as well.

No need to polish or do anything abrasive, as these windows are extremely soft and you can easily cause irreparable damage by using over aggressive methods or products. 1Z Deep Plastik Cleaner will do the trick for the majority of the buildup you have. The scratches might be there for good, unfortunately.

Here's a 50/50 on a Porsche Vinyl window. Nothing but that chemical and a clean, soft towel. It's one of my favorite products for interiors as well, so a great purchase, and free shipping if you have Amazon Prime(and you can get this plus another 1Z product or something and still get super saver shipping if you don't)

Welcome!

Since it's turning you into a car guy...If you have the space, or even if you can borrow the space from a friend, DIY your general maintenance. It's so easy on this car.

You can do a 15-20 minute oil change without getting under the car by getting a fluid extractor like this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/65-liter-fluid-extractor/011885sch01a/

Maintenance schedule is here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26312

Approved Oils are here (but just use Mobil1 0w-40, its fine and cheap): http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4017

Filter part numbers are here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16502

Lots of other great info/people on golfmk7 too.

Diluted Simple Green is a good all purpose cleaner you can use. Aerospace 303 Protectant can't be beat for all the plastic surfaces and dash. Use only microfibers.

You will probably want to get Gummi Pflege to lubricate your door seals. You will want to clean them with simple green or the like BEFORE you rub the Gummi on them so that you are removing the dirt and not causing the applicator of the Gummi to get gross.

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522191200&sr=1-1&keywords=gummi+pflege

For your tint, with the small triangle windows by the mirrors, if the shop you go to wants to charge you extra, put vinyl on the outside of them or remove trim to tint them, walk away, they aren't good enough. None of those things are necessary. Expect to pay $250-600 depending on the tint and the area you live in.

I had that same top on my last 72 Bronco, and I loved it more than my hard top. I was referred this stuff to clean and protect it with no issues. I would highly recommend it...

Raggtopp Convertible Top Vinyl Cleaner & Protectant Kit 16 ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKJ1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_82AHDbW27J6ZY

The side windows are prone to scratches, so store them flat if you can if you take them off.

The rear window rolls up into the top, and you are going to want to clean any dirt and debrit off prior to rolling it up. Any dirt left on there will rub in between the rolled layers. I used this stuff on the windows... It's like glass cleaner, but meant for plastic windows

Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish (13-Ounce) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00092CKN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m7AHDb0STJCPP

If you take care of that top, it'll last you a long time. They're really well made.

Most winter gloves have a visor squeege on the left thumb. I've only needed to use mine 3 or 4 times, when the fog mist is significant enough to cloud my vision, but not significant enough to get blown away by the wind when I turn my head.

Don't use RainX, it may gradually make the visor plastic more brittle, meaning an explosion of sharp plastic bits in your face if you go down with a visor impact. This almost certainly isn't true of all visors, but it's nearly impossible to be certain.

Basic car wax or [Plexus plastic cleaner/protectant](http://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1382548401&sr=1-1&keywords=plexus
) are your best bets when it comes to convincing the water to bead up and roll off more easily.

Some of this depends on how funky your interior is. I use APC for tougher stains (diluted). I use InnerClean by CG for removing dust and light stains, and it does smell like Pineapple, but the smell goes away very quickly.

I would try a car scent if you want to get away from fruity smells, something like New Car Smell by CG.

Cloth Seats - Give them a good vacuum and go over any spots with a cloth and cleaner.

APC has the ability to be diluted for all types of tasks, and sometimes the manufacturers are helpful and put them on the side of the bottle. It can be dialed down for interior use and use full strength for the nasties you find in your engine/wheels.

Scratches showing through the clearcoat and the paint will require touch up paint. That white color is most likely your primer. Compounding will not remove this.

EDIT: Saw the seats are cloth.

Lol, why oh why did I order some NuVinyl? And not just ONE bottle, I somehow ended up with TWO bottles. Yes, let's check back periodically to see how long the product lasts, it will be interesting to know.

LOOK AT THE SHINE ON THAT POUCH!!!!! I'm so excited, they look good gurl!! I feel like I want to walk around town, flagging everyone down who has a rep (or an auth whose canvas is suffering from dead, dry bones syndrome) and telling them where they can get a bottle of shiny, lol.

All my goodies came today, including this one that I plan to use on my DE Neverfull. It claims to last for months. We shall soon see, will update soon!

Lol, I had to add this. All the reviews are written by people who used the product on their cars. How funny would it be if I posted a pic of my Neverfull and said how good the product is for LV canvas? The thought tickles me...

If it's wax, a white rubber eraser is really good for getting it off. I've also used Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and that also worked pretty well.

If it's faded, try Car Guys Plastic Restorer. I used it for the first time last week on a 13-year-old car and I was surprised how well it worked. I've tried a few others black-restore products, including Meguier's, and this is the best I've found.

Neighbor used bug spray to show me how great it would "restore" her headlights. I have already explained that is not a great method.


What's the best way to go about fixing what she did? I'm just planning to wash it and maybe throw some Collinite845 or PlastX on it. (I won't be going through an entire restoration process, at best I'd use the TurtleWax box kit as I've read it's the best off-the-shelf product.)

Since I'm kind of known for keeping my car clean, I'll share what I have learned over my journey. Let me preface this by saying I live in a condo with a shared underground garage, just like most apartments. Due to this, I have no hose access, unless I go to the self car wash spots.

My favorite product by far is Chemical Guys EcoSmart waterless wash.

For glass, I love Stoner Invisible Glass.

For wheels, I'm a big fan of Chemical Guys Diablo Gel.

For exhaust tips, Mother's Chrome Polish.

This next one may not be for everyone, but I like it. Stoner Trim Shine.

Those are my highlights. The other products I use are pretty generic.

I have been using THIS for my interior (dashboard and door panels). So far I am liking it.

I heard positive reviews of 303 Spray

Which one do you recommend? Or is there any product more best bang for my buck?

Thank you!

The free way to perhaps help would be to clean your gaskets along the doors/hood/ and windows as well as their mating surfaces with just warm soapy water and rinsing them off. You could also buy a quality water-based gasket conditioner to treat them with after cleaning them to counteract any drying out with something like this or this!

So, first I have to say, that's the proper color for a guitar in that finish.

That said, it's your guitar, you can do with it as you see fit. It's yellowed because the outermost layer of the polyurethane finish it's coated with is yellowed. Your best best would be something like this to polish up and remove the yellowing from that outmost layer.

Definitely check in an inconspicuous area first though, it's not exactly a standardized process.

I just toothpasted my car over the weekend. It does indeed work. Just buy some simple Crest toothpaste with whitener in it. I doubt the chemical compounds of the toothpaste do anything, but what you are getting is a very mild abrasive compound.

Take a spray bottle of water, slather up some toothpaste on a rag and cover the head light and buff and buff and buff. When you think you've ground down the surface layer enough, spray more water on and rinse and wipe clean.

If this doesnt do it, you can step up to something like Bar Keeper's Friend mixed with water for more abrasion. You can also try 1000 & 2000 grit wet sanding, however you have to be careful sanding them as you could make the surface even more rough and cause it to cloud up again more quickly.

Follow it up with some Meguiars Plastic X polish and you should be good to go. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR

So, the problem with DHGate is that there are so many flops out there. Its a hard lesson to learn. I've done it, sometimes on purpose because I'm a glutton for punishment LOL. There are a couple good sellers. Fubar has average quality and OC does actually have a DHGate storefront as well. I feel like though, mostly as a rep noob, its best to steer clear of DHGate/Aliexpress because its very easy to overpay for something that is not that great.

Conversely with a trusted seller you'll get a good product, sure you might overpay, relatively speaking, because you didn't comparison shop enough, but it will less likely be a subpar rep.

I clicked on your DHGate link and while the neverfull is not the worst, I do feel like you overpaid. There was a review I commented on yesterday where she paid $80. I've paid $80-$90 for a 3A neverfull as well. I think the biggest thing that stood out to me was the interior color, its way purple.

Anyway - to speed up patina you can use neatsfoot oil (my preference) and the glazing can be fixed with rejuvenate wood furniture markers - mahogany or walnut color. For canvas sheen, I use nuvinyl

Pick up some chain lube, a can of plexus, and a microfiber towel. These are really simple things that are easy to overlook, but make a difference.

It's pretty easy to roll the bike a couple feet and spray the chain in sections every few hundred miles even without a stand.

I'm always surprised at how much less fatiguing a long ride is with a clean visor. Just less things for your brain to process if there aren't as many bugs in your vision.

http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-Self-Cleaning-Lubricant/dp/B00KMMFE8Y

http://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4/

Beautiful colored Subie. I use a spray on sealant by Meguiars to keep my headlights from fading, lasts well over a year.

Also, this stuff called gummi pflege stift is great for restoring and protecting old rubber door seals:

nextzett 91480615 'Gummi Pflege Stift' Rubber Care Stick - 3.4 fl. oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r1WIAbZ52QG3J

I've had a lot of luck with this on some old golf cart plastic trim. It is a dye though, tape around it and grab some gloves. Be careful.

Thisis easier to find and easier to work with.

There's a great (inkfor trim reviews on the wiki. He has a 6 month update on all products there as well.



Edit: formatting

Hey!

I also have a GTI as well and I use the Chemical Guys InnerClean and I really like it. It smells really good, it cleans and protects your interior(Dashboard, center council, doors etc). It also have a matte finish(OEM look) when you wipe it off, I think it's really ugly when the dashboard is all shiny like it does with armorall products.

For your plaid seats, it doesn't really matter if your seats are heated or not. My first suggestion would be to do steam cleaning if possible and if it's really dirty. If not, you can buy AMMONYC Shag Fabric cleaner. In this video, Larry(AMMONYC owner) shows multiple methods on how to clean cloth seats.

For your salt stains the solution is very cheap, again follow our leader Larry's video. After using the vinegar solution, I would let it dry for few days and then I would clean the seats after that with the product I mentioned above for your seats.

Looks like you can clean it. Copper should be pretty easy. Plenty of info on that. Acrylic can be a biatch though. I use Meguiar's PlasticX and a microfiber cloth (and in your case a toothbrush). Just be sure to rinse it really well with DW. The question really is "is at block worth the time to clean?" as it will take quite a bit of elbow grease.

You want a non-rinse all-purpose cleaner/surfactant. Folex is one, Meguiars D101 is another.

Apply a bit, agitate with a soft upholstery brush, wipe up with a microfiber cloth.

Note: The D101 is a professional product which you dilute for use. If you want a ready-to-use version, try this, but you've just given up your ability to alter the dilution ratio. At 4:1, this stuff is a good tire cleaner and all around "clean anything that's not paint" cleaner. At 10:1 it's an interior cleaner. That big bottle will last you a long time.

Not leather specific, but I use this on everything interior with great results and a wonderful smell!

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_663_16-InnerClean-Protectant/dp/B008LPEZ6Q

First, you should check /r/autodetailing

There's lots of options and everyone will have their favorites based on experience. One thing's for sure though, stop wiping down with ONLY water as that is probably making things worse other than getting some dirt and grime off. It makes the leather dry and prone to even more cracks. You need some sort of leather-specific PH-balanced cleaner and a conditioner to follow it.

My favorite value option that's easily sourced from your local Advance Auto/AutoZone is Lexol. Amazon has a kit that's pretty cheap for you to see if you like the results:
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA

Gliptone is also another well-liked value option:
http://www.amazon.com/Gliptone-Leather-Care-Combination-Kit/dp/B003VV423G

There are other higher end brands like Leatherique and Leather Master, but the results just didn't feel it was worth the price difference.

As for the dashboard, avoid junk like Armor All. Go with something like Einszett Cockpit Premium: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

Hello fellow Camaro, I like einszett products for my interior. link 1 link 2

I drive my car year round and these products work really well. The deep cleaner is of course the stronger of the two, but I've had good luck with it on my door sill plastic and my weathertech floor mats.

I used a 5,000 grit sandpaper from the auto parts and headlamp polishing. You need to be patient and do a few applications. I feel like I am not done but it sure looks a lot better than when I picked it up :)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR

Meguiars PlastX works like a charm. It's easier than toothpaste or any of these 5 step sandpaper-polishing compound kits, you just wipe it on, wipe it off and your headlights look great.

Armor All Original Protectant & Cleaning Wipes Twin Pack (2 x 25 count) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A835AY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

this is what i got. i use the protectant wipes to put some sheen on the canvas.

edit: i have used this too: Fiebing's Leather Sheen 4oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU6LIK0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf this one gives a nice sublte sheen that i really like and it lasts awhile however was kind off a pain to put on the bag.. it leaves a sticky feel to the canvas.. the stickiness goes away after a few days. i have been using the armour all wipes as it is more convinient and super easy.

Check out Lexol Vinylex - it’s a cleaner and protectant in one. Have been using it for years and already done my model 3 seats. Looks great - gives the seats a bit of a lustre without being too wet or slick looking. Just apply it sparingly on a Microfiber and wipe it into the seats until the finish looks uniform. A little goes a long way. You can do all the trim and dash with it as well! I swear I don’t work for these guys just really happy with the product.
https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301126000-Vinylex-Protectant-16-9/dp/B0002KKHS8

Temporary fixes are fairly simple.

Just about any rubbing compound will knock off the layer of oxidation.

For example, wheel-polish. For a very good fix, either buy a full headlight restore kit. Or put together your own.

I've had very good luck with Meguiars's PlastX followed by Klasse Sealant Glaze

Chemical guys interior cleaner. It’s yellow and smells like bananas/ pina colada and it gets all the dust and grime right off, doesn’t leave a slick film like armorall does

Chemical Guys SPI_663_16 InnerClean Interior Quick Detailer and Protectant (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LPEZ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gpHUBb09ET6CM


Their stain remover is also amazing too. Really anything they make is super high quality

i use rain-x wipers but my real secret is this stuff

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG


it reinvigorates all rubber, from window and door seals, to wiper blades. It's awesome!

I've posted my list before:

Car Wash Shampoo: Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II Amazon link

Quick Detailer: Chemical Guys High Gloss Spray Sealant & Quick Detailer Amazon Link

Wax/Sealant (every 6 months): Blackfire Pro Paint Protection (previously Blackfire Wet Diamond All Paint Protection) Amazon Link

Clay Bar (every 12 months): Simoniz S57 Perfect Finish Detailing Clay Amazon Link

Clear Plastics (head/tail lights): Plexus Plastic Cleaner & Protectant Amazon Link

Plastic/Vinyl/Rubber/Leather: 303 Aerospace Protectant Amazon Link

Door/Trunk/Frunk Seals: 303 (above) or Nextzett Gummi Pflege Rubber Conditioner Amazon Link

Glass: Stoner Invisible Glass Amazon Link


Wheels: Griot's Garage Wheel Cleaner Amazon Link

Tires: Aero Low Shine Rubber Care Amazon Link

Ohh I see! By the way is the right one to buy? Lexol 1215 Vinylex Protectant, 16.9-oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKHS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MtFUzbYZ8GHB7 and by the way dumb question but will this only look good on dark canvas or will it help my neverfull damier azur have the shine a bit too :)

okay so like the comment below 303 is simple and easy. I don"t use it much as its not readily available here in Toronto.

Things i do use:

For the dash board and any plastic inside the car i use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05324-Protectant-24-oz/dp/B0007RDVGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704916&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+interior

OR

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705281&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars%2Binterior%2Bcleaner&th=1

For the carpets i do 2 thing when i am in a hurry ill use:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-50572-Rubber-Cleaner/dp/B00PKE6NNY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704985&sr=8-12&keywords=turtle+wax+interior+cleaner

Just spray some on the carpet and after a quick vacuum then do a good vacuum job this can take like 30 mins once you get the hang of it.

when i have time i use:

https://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-1400B-Multi-Purpose-Portable-Cleaner/dp/B0016HF5GK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705069&sr=8-2&keywords=bissell+little+green

The second method is simple just follow the instructions it came with and this item usually goes on sale there are better ones that keep the water heated.

They also both give the car a nice smell after cleaning i don't have leather seats so i can say much about it.

as for windows there 2 steps i do as well:

I use

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705440&sr=8-2&keywords=invisible+glass

Then polish the exterior and where is no tint with

https://www.amazon.com/3M-800002242-RAIN-X-WINDSHIELD-TREATMENT-3-5/dp/B000WNED08/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705503&sr=8-13&keywords=rain+x+glass+cleaner

The second step is a bit tedious so if you are not comfortable stick with step 1.

The thing that also really good to have is good clothes for cleaning the more the better Micro fibre cloth's are the best.

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-POLISHING/dp/B0166U4PVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705636&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+fiber+rag+company

and for glass:

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Microfiber-Professional-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00WC5KQGE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705755&sr=8-5&keywords=rag+company+glass

After wiping the class with step one and then its dry i usually just follow up with a dry microfiber cloth to pick up any little dirt i left behind.

If i left anything behind let me know ill make a full post once summer comes around with maybe a video of sorts but there is alot of information also to r/autodetailing wiki post and sorry for the format if its not up to standards this is my first long post.

Wheels: Sonax Full Effect

Doors cards: Folex.

Interior: Chemical Guys Nonsense (Dilute first)

Protection: 303 Aerospace.

Dis-colorization: The Nonsense cleaner will work but if you want to get a super deep clean, 1z deep plastic cleaner

This was my first attempt at engine detailing and I think it went pretty well! I covered some of the electrical components (alternator, battery terminals, etc) and proceeded with the typical spray down of water, followed by a good misting of APC, followed by agitation with a Solo Horton brush, and rounded out with another misting of water. I finished the process by drying the engine bay with a leaf blower and a coating of 303 Aerospace Protectant. Looks good to me!


Products Used:

• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 dilution)
  
• 303 Aerospace Protectant
  
• Solo Horton #10 Brush
  

Me too!!!! It's so annoying. It doesn't take it all out, but I have good luck with this product.

Never had any luck with Back2Black
Been through TONS of plastic restorers, most of them have a mineral oil like quality and don't hold up to rain.

Recently switched to Car Guys plastic restorer and it's really really good, definitely worth the price, little bit goes a long way
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071FRWWRF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get some Plexus to keep the plastic protected and supple, and some more abrasive cleaner to clear it up every now and then (Jeep should sell something appropriate).

Source: My 2002 Boxster had a plastic window in it, and I used a combination of the Porsche cleaner to keep it clear (used sparingly) and Plexus to keep it supple (used religiously).

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing. I use nextzett on my interior. Way better than Armorall, no greasy feel or shine and seems to keep the dust away. Wow, I sound like a shill...

Griot's Garage would be my go to general interior cleaner. Virtually no odor, no residue and cleans phenomenally.

Chemical Guys make a decent product as well. I wouldn't say it's an as effective cleaner as Griot's but does offer UV protection. CG's cleaner does have a fruity smell (fades after a few hours) and is colored as well.

Haven't had to use it in the BRZ (thankfully) but in past cars and friends, for the suuuuper filthy or large stains, Tuff Stuff's Foam Cleaner is a go to.

Other than that, compressed air for the nooks and crannies.

My top was kinda doing the same, the gray was dust.

So I looked for advice and decided to get Roll-Off and then 303 Protectorant.

I washed the top with car soap and rinsed, then I scrubbed it with a horsehair brush and the Roll-Off, and rinsed it and dried it. After that I got a detail rag and then sprayed a generous amount of the 303 Protecterant and wiped it all over. It looks really nice now and the dark color is back.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FSDZTU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi, beginner here. The dash on my '08 Sonata is looking a bit sad and faded (pic here, ignore shadows and camera artifacts), and I was hoping to clean and restore it.

Would a combination of Megs Quick Interior Detailer (which I already have), plus 303 Aerospace work well? I also have Simple Green if that's better, but not sure what dilution ratio would work well. Thanks!

I use Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer and it does an amazing job. Plus you can buy it at Walmart, at least around me.

Edit: I always follow up with Meguiars Natural Shine on the plastic. I find it helps it not look so shitty. I hate that plastidip finish they used for the plastic.

I clean my shield with plexus I just use a small towel to wipe it off, works great!

When I park on any kind of hill I usually leave my bike in gear, perpendicular with the curb. With your kickstand down and it in gear it should be ok, just let it roll for a second so it stops.

• I love clean things and I want to pickup the CX-5 branded all weather floor mats and cargo tray. Is there a better option?
  
  I have the Weather Tech mats and they're awesome.
  
  
  
• When cleaning the inside I planned to only use a microfiber cloth and/or a slightly damp with warm water microfiber. Is there a better way?
  
  I keep a microfiber towel in the glove box for quick wipe downs, but every few weeks or so, I'll use Meguiar's to clean the interior.
  
  
  
• Are there any accessories I might not know about that are must haves?
  
  I have a jump starter just in case anything went wrong! Beyond that, hmm... I'm not entirely sure. I have done some light modding to my CX-5, but nothing that are like, "OH MAN, GET THIS!"

The best product I have used for this is Wipe New

https://www.amazon.com/Wipe-New-WN6PCMSTRRT-Trim-Restorer/dp/B00AYXM4DY

So far it has held up for a couple months and a couple car washes and looks almost the same. Cost around $15, so it is very worth it in my mind

The only other products I have used are a very temporary solution ("Back to black" by mothers, one by meguiers and Aerospace 303).

Agreed! Go easy on the instrument cluster by starting with something like Meg's QID, if that doesnt work you can probably go as aggressive as CG AllClean+ or any other APC with an interior dilution but that's about as far as I would go.

Unfortunately the instrument cluster plastic tends to etch from chemicals and scratch pretty easily. Anyone have experience using a PlastX or something similar to get it back in check?

I like the AMMO Plum wheel cleaner. Also a set of wheel woolies.

I really like this stuff in the interior. And a set of these brushes for detailing in and out. Stock up on microfiber.

Also, AMMO makes a spray called hydrate that is used when drying the car. I like the stuff.

My 6 has so much creek. So what I did was...

1/4th inch drip tube in the inner seal atop my doors

That worked for a bit but the squeaky noises returned.

Next I used Gummi Pflege on the inside of every single seal within the door. So what I mean is. On the ones that attach to the body, but more importantly I spread open every one on the door and put a generous coating

Lastly,

I put Sailkote all over a rag, I mean soaked it, then rubbed it all over the felt side of the upper door seal that touches the body.

This can be purchased for a lot less with some hunting. I paid 12.99 at a local marina store

How to: clean and dress trim and dress tires

1. Start with a clean tire (picture 2).
   
2. Apply tire protectant/shine of your choice. Make sure tires are coated evenly (picture 3 & 4).
   
3. Wipe off any excess with a microfiber towel.
   
4. Spray APC on trim (picture 6).
   
5. Agitate with a brush. Do not grind the dirt into the plastic. Lightly bring it to the surface and wipe away (picture 7).
   
6. Apply trim protectant/shine of your choice (pictures 8 – 10).
   
7. Buff off any excess and try not to get any on your paint (picture 11).
   
   
   303 Aerospace can be found OTC at various retailers...check their website! I got my bottle at EMS
   
   Chemical Guys All Clean +
   
   Microfiber applicator was found OTC - /u/theragcompany im so sorry dont hit me
   
   Carpro PERL
   
   Tire applicator
   
   Boar's hair brush same as before - https://www.solobrushes.com/173-Bridled-Glue-Brush-429

The most you will probably hear here is don't use Armor All cleaners for the surfaces (do more harm than good and leave a bright sheen) and visit /r/autodetailing.

These are just items I have used personally and would recommend:
Best interior cleaner I have found is Meguiar's Interior Cleaner with some microfiber towels.

Haven't had to deal with anything for anti-fogging, but for windows I use Stoner's Invisible Glass. It's a little too good in my opinion, now I have to figure out how to fix 6 little nicks in my windshield I wouldn't have noticed otherwise...

K I've read several people use that car guys super cleaner. Is that all you put on your interior ever or do I need to add a UV protector after like 303 UV protectant?

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=303+aerospace&qid=1573275554&s=automotive&sr=1-2

Is it sticky? If not, it's highly likely that it "stained" because it's actually conditioning the plastic, which is technically good for it. Go buy yourself a can of plastic conditioner and do all of your faded plastic. Your Jeep will shine and look newer, and you'll never be able to tell you were egged.

Edit: like this stuff. You can get it pretty much anywhere with an auto section.


(8000 edits later because I forgot how to link format...more coffee, please.)

I have had zero repairs on the top and the only maintenance I've done is to put some Gummi Pflege on the seals every 6 months ( https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1IXM3TJ577A2&keywords=gummi+pflege+rubber+protection&qid=1563411869&s=gateway&sprefix=gummi+pf%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-1 ). The top works great and has never given me a problem. I live in Arizona and put it down A LOT.

Call me crazy, but I really like Chemical Guys Inner Clean and I use it whenever I detail a car. It gives off a matte, factory finish. Do not order from their site, order on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI_663_16-InnerClean-Protectant/dp/B008LPEZ6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409425318&sr=8-1&keywords=Inner+Clean

Also one more thing. Buy this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what they use on the rubber trim on the hardtop convertible tops on bmws. Put it all around the rubber seal on the T tops. It refreshes the rubber and prevents leaks. This shit works like a charm. brought my rubber seals back to life.

Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.

You can get replacement tires for many G1 toys. Just search Amazon for "rubber tires model car" and there are plenty of options. Just measure the size of the tires you need and find something suitable.

You can also find diecast toy cars at places like Walmart for $2-3 that have rubber tires that are compatible with some G1 toys.

You can also use some rubber seal protectant to keep the tires of your toys from drying out. Just use it sparingly.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Rubber-Protectant-Conditioner-Weather/dp/B00T44D1R2

You can also get replacement tires for RID Prime on Shapeways:

• https://www.shapeways.com/product/QUDQKJFPW/fire-convoy-big?optionId=59112847
  
• https://www.shapeways.com/product/8BC9B2CAB/fire-convoy-small?optionId=61226601

I absolutely love inner clear from CHEMICAL Guys..

Chemical Guys SPI_663_16 InnerClean Interior Quick Detailer and Protectant (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LPEZ6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JDcDCbYWZEGWV

1. I'd try this brush with some Nextzett Cockpit Premium
   
2. Like Beast said, Badgeskins sells a sticker to cover that.
   
3. For the steering wheel, I'd recommend Lexol. I also use that to clean my leather seats, followed by their leather conditioner every now and then.

Honestly, give Trinova Plastic and Trim Restorer a shot. I recently detailed a 2008 Honda Pilot with grayish trim. I'd bought this stuff on a whim bc it was on sale. It's thick, a little goes a looong way, and it brought back the black.

Don't know how long it'll last on 10 year old trim, but if yours is in good condition, should last a long time.

$12 a bottle and I went through very little. I bet you could get 12 car's worth of applications out of it.

TriNova Trim

Honda Pilot Trim Before and After

If you have a cordless drill purchase the 3M lens cleaner: http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048236&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner

There are more than enough pads in there for 2 headlights. Take off your front bumper and put up your hood, this will make the task so much easier. Triple painters tape the paint around top and sides. Get a squirt bottle from Autozone, Homedepot, etc and fill it with water. Take your time, it should take around 45 minutes to do both.

Also do them at the same time, each step. Don't complete one and move to the other.

Afterwords protect and clean with: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1396048450&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+lens+cleaner

This is the best stuff out there for plastics.

Used it in the military for helicopter canopies. Started using it on my motorcycle visor and it worked GREAT. Should be useful here too.

>Doors freeze shut when it’s cold.

Yeah, I know, right? It normally happens when you have a slightly warmer day (enough to allow some melted snow to get into the door's track) followed by a much colder night. Next morning, frozen door. It's not the glass or the seal freezing, it's the water. Adding a lubricant to the seal usually does the trick. Someone above recommended the following, sound like a plan for those in a colder climate.

303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JBh7Bb00V3DRV

Is it permanently fogged (plastic damaged) or is this just condensation a.k.a. does it get better with time? If it's the first one you might be able to remove the instrument cluster window and use plastic polish on both sides of the plastic. If it's condensation check to see if gaskets, o-rings, etc that create a seal are in good condition. That's where I'd start at least...

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

This stuff is great to keep your rubber nice and supple, and does add a little "blackness"

I like Trim Shine made by Stoner Products. Made in the USA. Looks great without the greasiness.

I just cleaned the interior of my new 6 with products/techniques from /r/autodetailing. Its a great sub.

For the dash/panels/screen, I brushed dust gently with a horsehair brush (I bought a new shoeshine brush). Spray a little 1z Cockpit Premium on a microfiber cloth and wiped down. Then I wiped again with a dry cloth. Nice clean matte finish, not the super slick & shiny Armor All look. I used Lexol leather cleaner on my leather seats, after brushing the dust off.

Here's the interior cleaner I used, but there are others. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002Z2MZ4?pc_redir=1395735928&robot_redir=1

Hey guys just wanted to drop off some results for Lexol vinyl protector spray. The heart vernis cles is a bottom tier ioffer rep and the toiletries is fubar888's mid tier rep. I think the sheen substantially improves the look! I might make a guide with some befores/afters for some rep care/results if I get some more protectors/cleansers.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AY3SR

Here's something simple and relatively cheap you can try. You can find it at any auto parts store or even Walmart. It's good for light scratches and scuffs on a variety of plastics, just make sure to use a microfiber cloth (probably stocked within a 5 ft radius of the Plastx), and test a small spot first. If nothing else, it's good for cleaning plastics so while the scuffs might be there still, the rest of the body should be nice and shiny.

I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. There is no better rubber care product:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to try and treat it, there's a billion different kinds of plastic cleaner/de-clouder. It's the same stuff you use on car headlights.

Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish

>Should I clay bar and/or wax windows?

Yes. I clay my windows, especially my windshield, every 2-3 weeks. I use Stoner's Invisible Glass cleaner. And I use Aquapel instead of wax on my windows because it last much much longer.

>Should I wax plastic (unpainted, rough texture, black) exterior trim? If not, what product to protect this?

No. I like to use 303 Aerospace Protectant

>Should I clay bar and/or wax headlights? I'm pretty sure I've read that this is a yes, and I did this time, but just checking.

Yes. I would be a little hesitant about the clay marring plastic headlights though. Since they are much softer than paint/glass.

>How do I know when a clay bar needs replacing?

When it starts to look dirty. After you finish claying a section fold the clay over on itself then start the next section. When are you reshaping between sections and you aren't able to find a clean spot of clay, it's time for a new piece. And if you drop it on the ground pick it up and throw it right in the garbage.

interior, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Z2MZ4

Recommended to me and I like it. Smells nice (not over powering) is not glossy and can be used on treated leather (your steering wheel).

You can fix this long-term (but not completely permanently) with two steps: First, thoroughly clean the headlights using Meguiar's PlastX, which will restore them to brand new shine. Next, apply a layer of Meguiar's Keep Clear Coating, which will keep the headlights from fogging again for up to one year. You can probably use a different brand of coating, but I haven't found anything else that works as well as PlastX.

Break fluid dissolves.. a lot of things.. so you may need something more aggressive to get it back to a uniform coloring. Though, I've used black plastic polish with success in spots similar to this before: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G15812-Ultimate-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B0055PD1H4

/r/AutoDetailing might be a good resource for this!

I recently picked up some Meguiar’s Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner for like $5 at Walmart, based on the Wirecutter’s recommendation. It works great. I had a dashboard that had picked up a lot of dust and wouldn't really wipe clean because the surface is kind of sticky, and now it looks brand new.

This stuff is the best interior cleaner you can buy.

I use Meguiars Plastx to polish the scratches off slabbed coins. It's actually marketed for plastic headlights. Take a towel, but a nice dab on it, and work it in pretty hard. Doing it hard might actually leave VERY tiny hairline scratches as you get the bigger stuff out - But this only really happens with NGC plastic. Then, to get any other little scratches out from using hard pressure, put more on, a generous amount, and do a circular motion very softly then wipe the stuff off. Some deep scratches might take some time, lighter scratches take 20 seconds.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=486722KKZ1WXQGSHBB8F

Here's the stuff.

I've made crazy scratched slabs look virtually brand new.

there's also slab-renew. Never tried it but its much more expensive.

http://www.slabrenew.com/home.html

For wheels you can literally just use soap and a seperate rag that will never touch the paint, or wheel woolies followed by a rag.

You said there wasn't anything on there for Wheels or Interior, but here's the recommended stuff from the wiki:

Hot Rims Wheel & Tire Cleaner

Quik Interior Detailer

Not what I use personally, but just to prove the point a lot of information can be found from the wiki.

If you plan on using tire shine, use something that doesn't contain silicon and i would recommend a gel dressing over spray on shines.

I use this stuff and it works amazingly: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AY3SR?pc_redir=1396539178&robot_redir=1

I have a bottle in my trunk, and use it to clean friends and family cars. It takes a very small amount to make the headlight look brand new. I've had the same bottle for a couple years.

I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. It came highly rated from the auto detailing subreddit, and I've been very pleased with the results on our S and X.

There's a kit for it...and I don't know the name. I assume go to Amazon and look up trim kit.

Edit: dammit i looked it up for you:

Amazon Link

Scrub the surface with a good de-greaser and rinse it well, scrub a couple times until the suds no longer change color and apply this product and they will look like new.

Not permanent once again, but it will last longer than most (1-2 weeks).

Also contains a sunscreen.

Make sure you shake it well each time before using.

You need to put several coats.

Be careful to avoid the car's paint areas.

I highly suggest staying away from any petroleum based product for your trim and tires. You want something that will provide UV protection and won't break down the plastic over time. 303 Products are fantastic and will extend the life of your plastic trim, tires, and rubber.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0185PU38A

Fyi you can use black plastic restoration stuff (link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055PD1H4) and seal it with armor all to restore it to the factory coloring. I used it on my JKU and as long as you apply the armor all occasionally I haven't had mine fade. I have found that dirt from off roading does bake on and fade the plastic if you leave it but hosing it off right after you go can save you from that.

I have read (even in non-Tesla forums) that using something like this helps the window from sticking to the rubber seals.

303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JBh7Bb00V3DRV

There are many options on amazon that help with freezing. Or so they say.

This stuff is your best bet. Forget lemon pledge and other multi-surface polish that leaves a greasy residue and has fragrance. Plastic trim restorer is specifically manufactured for restoring plastic.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/

The idea is to use a chemical meant to reverse oxidation in plastics like headlight lenses, but on the laser lens. I've heard of people using this product to buff the lens: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR

Re: pots, I think it can work if you have an oscilloscope and the repair manual to get the values, but otherwise it's kind of a fool's errand IMO

This might help: CarGuys Plastic Restorer - The Ultimate Solution for Bringing Rubber, Vinyl and Plastic Back to Life! - 8 oz Kit

Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish - The plastic exterior on my Jeep Liberty looks terrible and it makes me sad!

My wishlist! Thanks!

Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387042&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather

Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387140&sr=8-2&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash

For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387101&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0

Dash protectant, I use 303.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387193&sr=8-4&keywords=303+protectant

Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.

Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.

After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.

So far, so good with this stuff:

Lexol E301126000 Vinylex Protectant, 16.9 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKHS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zpVtDbZK101WC

Use it on all our cars, best thing I've found for all the black plastic bits.

Before I forget, you'll want some of this. It's the stuff that revitalises your seals and cures (or prevents) the T-Top leak as well as reduces wind noise. It's a godsend and done the moon-roof on my E34 as well as the T-Tops on an '87 AW11. Seriously worth a bottle.

Something like this might help

Einszett Cockpit Premium. This stuff is awesome

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

It's actually Cockpit Premium: https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-92470515-Cockpit-Premium-16-9/dp/B0002Z2MZ4

It works great for car interiors and old plastics / laptops / etc.

This is what I used on the bumpers, worked great, would highly recomend. I don't know why it didn't work on the side trim.

These are the two I see recommended the most:

Gummi Pflege
http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

Krytox
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=Krytox+gpl205

You can also use silicone lube if you don’t have the above (that’s what I did last time I did mine). For cleaning, warm water and dish soap, light wipe with a clutch, make sure to get all the rubber damp.

This stuff is easy to apply and works well:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Black-Restorer-Protect/dp/B0055PD1H4/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2UW3B51KKNVFJ&keywords=plastic+restorer&qid=1569526006&sprefix=plastic+res%2Caps%2C208&sr=8-18

I am a clean person but the interior of my '17 CX-5 gets filled with dust and fingerprints every day. Not good for an OCD person :P
I kept a microfiber cloth in the car to wipe stuff off but I think it put swirls/scratches in the piano gloss black plastic trim so I stopped using it.

I got some Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer though. Says it should it be safe to use on all the surfaces, but what do you guys think?

Meguiars interior wipes or the spray is what I normally use on my truck, my car, and my girlfriends car. Work great, good smell when spraying^^^^^DoesntOverwhelm, I usually spray the rag. Unless it’s bad enough to need a soak.


Edit: The wipes work fantastically on the dash

This worked amazing : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get nextzett it's amazing
Link to it

Here are some links for anyone who likes what you see here.

Potato Express


Phantom Saucer

Wipe New

Easy Eggwich

Fast Brite

Hover Ball

Micro Touch Max

Side Socket

Mighty Charger

Swivel Sweeper Max

Ball Pets - Kitty

303 is great stuff. That's what I use. My 2003 is still original top but I've had to patch it in a couple of small spots, due to wear from the bars.

This is what I was referring to for the door and window seals: 303 Rubber Seal Protectant and Conditioner for Weather Seals - 3.4 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T44D1R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LDIAbS9Y0J4B

Perhaps some plastic polish? Im not sure if it will quite give it a glossy finish so much though, but a lot of people favor this it seems, haven't tried it myself.

Use Plexus every six months or so and you'll never have this problem. It's kind of pricey but it works really well. I believe it was originally developed for aircraft windshields, since they are made of plexiglass. Link below but most motorcycle shops also sell it.

https://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4

Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish, 10 Fluid Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VoSPDb5X6XV5T

I had really good luck with this. It is a little expensive but a little goes a long way it lasts 8-9 months. https://www.amazon.com/Wipe-New-WN6PCMSTRRT-Trim-Restorer/dp/B00AYXM4DY

No easy way to fix those scuffs and divots. Some of those spots will need to be sand, fill, and repaint. You may be able to remove very light marks with product like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004B8EUI0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

> you should periodically add rubber protector or conditioner to the weather stripping / seal to keep it conditioned.

Had never heard of this, so I went and bought this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T44D1R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the heads up!

Yes you can use that one, I actually have this one. I bought a two pack in case something happens with one so I'll have one on hand.

The interior was easy. Vacuum, wiped down with Nextzett Cockpit Premium, and dressed some parts with 303. The only bad thing was I was vacuuming in the sun, so it was hot af. The paint had oxidation, but the owner didn't have much time so I only washed it and sealed it with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.

best there is. . Significantly better that armor all products in my opinion.

The Meguiar's PlastX costs $6.47 on Amazon. Instead go to Dollar Tree and get some toothpaste that works just as well.

Did you put gasket treatment on the door seals to help prevent the doors from sticking?

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

You can get it at Amazon or your choice of online sites.

Simply clean all seals with a damp microfiber cloth, wet the applicator and moisten the seals. Do your doors, hatch and hood seals too, especially if you are in a winter zone.

On Amazon, there are two :

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection

​

And one with:

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?

​

Which one do you all prefer???

Plexus is the best I've found. I sell the Molecule in the small bottles of helmet cleaner but am yet to try it myself, however a few drivers I deal with swear by it.

https://www.amazon.com/Plexus-Plastic-Cleaner-Protectant-13-Ounce/dp/B00092CKN4

I use 303 for this. They make a product specifically for rubber trim but I just use the regular protectant spray on a microfiber towel. Works well.

https://smile.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG?sa-no-redirect=1 this is purpose built for seals. will also protect them.

> There is great rubber/trim stick out there, but I can't remember the name (I think it is German).

Is this it?
Einszett Gummi Pfledge Stift

Yea. I bought something like this at a local autoparts store to polish my some older headlights and even my glossy PS3.

By polish, I mean using polishing compound preferably designed for plastics/headlights. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR

One more thing, the UV sealant usually says to keep it out of the rain after it's been applied, so if there's any rain forecasted and and you don't have a garage, don't do it until the rain is gone.

Sounds (smells?) like they're using an interior detailer, similar to Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner.

It does on older cars but using some APC and a less fancy microfiber you can clean them and it should stop them from black streaking. Feeling extra fancy, use some https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

depending on their state will change the answer. You can get them replaced. You could also use something like meguiars back to black to "paint" them black again.

https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G15812-Ultimate-Plastic-Restorer/dp/B0055PD1H4

Something like this: 303 Rubber Seal Conditioner?

Is it literally falling apart or just in dry/rough shape? If the latter, try this first: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

Read the reviews :)

Do you mean the 303 protectant, or an interior cleaner from 303?

Just asking because you may mentioned cleaner, so you might be comparing apples to oranges... explaining such a gap in performance.

Sure. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR

Thanks! The rubber and trim is all NLA— I'll look into what plasti-dipping it would take. I also need to take the roof rack down, remove all the chipping paint (what's left if it, anyway), and then re-paint it. Have you used Meguiar's Black Plastic Restorer?

For power washing, am I doing it right? Can I use more pressure? Just looking for some guidance, since I'm just doing what seems mostly right without much knowledge of if it really is right.

Yep, made for the interior (leather, plastics, etc) and it also products from UV. Originally designed for boats.

https://smile.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A

How does Adam's VRT compare to the 303 Protectant I've seen recommended?

http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-THR030350-Protectant-oz/dp/B003KV2A04/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375717595&sr=1-4

Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish - 10 oz. by Meguiar's http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_PiNyub18GBBVM

This stuff works wonders, but it takes a few coats though.

I think you're probably out of luck on the buttons (unless you want to disassemble the fob and figure out a way to machine polish them), but for the plastic back, maybe Meguiar's PlastX would make a difference?

I had this problem as well, took it back to the dealer and had them get it off (unfortunately I can’t remember exactly what they did). Once it was off you could still see the faded outlines, so I applied 303 UV Protectant on it every couple of weeks since then and the marks have completely gone away.

Here's my post from a few months back...

if its coated canvas, I have seen many people recommending Lexol Vinylex. I literally just ordered mine for $8 from Amazon for my Pochette Metis:) Here is the link:

https://www.amazon.com/Lexol-E301126000-Vinylex-Protectant-16-9/dp/B0002KKHS8/ref=pd_cp_469_1?pd_rd_w=7vBm7&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=P86XHHZC0JKHR54D4KCT&pd_rd_r=74b9cda1-694d-491c-b273-abd93477d39b&pd_rd_wg=tqRlG&pd_rd_i=B0002KKHS8&psc=1&refRID=P86XHHZC0JKHR54D4KCT

I would clean it with light abrasion (microfiber towel is probably ok) and any sort of all purpose cleaner. I'm not sure if it's reversible, but there are products that are meant for that sort of material. If you google "gummi pflege" you should find a couple. I personally have this stuff but haven't used it a whole lot.

I've heard good things about this stuff for faded trim: https://www.amazon.com/Wipe-New-WN6PCMSTRRT-Trim-Restorer/dp/B00AYXM4DY

In a pinch you can also use foam tire shine, but it will only stay on for a couple days.

This would be worth a try. Works on lots of plastic surfaces.

Meguiar's Plastx is my go to for dustcover (and headlight) cleaning.

Clean as much of the dust off as you can by spraying it down with the kitchen sink sprayer, as if you just drag a rag over it, the dirt will cause a bunch of tiny scratches in the cover. After that, hit it with the Plastx (basically, you use it like you would a car wax - use a pad to work it in, and then buff it out).

You can clean them up with Meguiar's PlastX. I use them to polish up my headlights a bit, but it works for all kinds of plastic. $6 on Amazon

Or, you could buy a bottle of this and make it look new again. I've tried it and it works on fine scratches. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AY3SR?pc_redir=1409971466&robot_redir=1

I recommend gummifledge for this issue. I tried silicone spray first and that worked for a while, but this gummifledge stuff made the creaking go away for six months at a time. Pop up your moonroof and apply it to the rubber piece in the back and wherever else you think there may be rubbing, but that long back rubber weather seal was the culprit.

​

https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

Plastic & Trim Restorer - Dye-Free Formula Shines & Darkens Worn Out Plastic, Vinyl & Rubber Surfaces - Protects Cars & Motorcycles from Rain, Salt & Dirt - Prevent Fading - 8 OZ - TriNova https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3wurzbYS5F3SS


This stuff worked better than back to black for me. I usually put one coat all around and let it dry, then go for another coat.

for vegan leather seats, this is exactly what you want:


https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GRDHIASW5YHM&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant&qid=1563372732&s=gateway&sprefix=303+%2Cautomotive%2C284&sr=8-5

I used this Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish, 10 Fluid Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N-wiDbWEBJW7F

I think the reason this worked on the 3DS though is because the plastic on the 3DS is a glossy material but if it’s more of a hard plastic I don’t think it’ll work.

Ouch....You could try out [Meguiars M17] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AXMD6/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466456170&sr=sr-1&keywords=plastic+cleaner) and or [Megs PlastX] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41KHjV%2BR9bL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=FWYTEAE959PHVWTSJDX9)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=plastx+meguiars&qid=1569598527&sprefix=plast+x&sr=8-2

PlastX and a foam applicator

PlastX is $7 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whoops how about Einszett Cockpit Premium

nextzett 92470515 Cockpit Premium - 16.9 fl. oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Z2MZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Lp9nDbAH0FMJT