Reddit mentions: The best mounting tape

Here is the link to the original light box posted here: click here

Here is the link to biscuitandbook's fantastic pointers that really helped me figure out how to plan this! click here

Here is the run down of things I used:

• 9x12 Watercolor paper cut down to size of shadowbox frame
  
• 8x10 white shadowbox frame from Joanns (50% on sale so I got it for only $10!)
  
• Mechanical Pencil
  
• Exacto Knife (I specifically used this one by Fiskars. I know some people like the small swivel one, but I found this one so much easier to control and very comfortable. I don't care for the small rotating kind because I personally feel they are not easy to control. The trick with a standard exacto knife is to rotate your paper instead!)
  
• Double sided mounting tape (the thick kind, like this Scotch tape)
  
  Procedure
  
  The first thing I did was come up with an idea of what I wanted to draw. I knew I wanted to draw a forest scene and incorporate a wolf and owl. I used Hari & Deepti's works as inspiration and to help me come up with an idea. You can see their work here. I specifically pulled from this piece to find out an idea of how to draw the forest scence.
  
  Next, I sketched out my idea on a piece of watercolor paper. Watercolor paper is best for this because it is very easy to cut, but also allows light through and can support itself. Cardstock was too thick and I found after a few tests that it did not shine through as easily. When I sketched, I tried to create the whole piece and look without worrying about layers, just focusing on the foreground, middle, and background that I wanted. I adjusted as I went. Pro tip: I suck at drawing realistically, so for the wolf and owl I found stock images of them and put the paper on the computer screen and traced. Much easier and so much less stressful!
  
  To begin the layers, I looked at my sketch and started from the top and worked my way back. I eyeballed my sketch as I drew the first layer. To begin, it is much easier if you cut out the general shape first and then work on the small details in each layer. For example, the top layer's tree branches were not cut in the first go. I cut out the ground and trunks, but left the tree branches as a huge piece at the top. It wasn't until I went back and focused on the details that I started to cut branch by branch. If you do trees in yours, I also recommend starting at the top and working down when you cut leaves/branches. The first layer I did from the bottom up and I accidentally snipped off areas for nice branches...
  
  After cutting all of the layers out, I then worked from the back up, that way I could attach the mounting tape as I went. This allows you to have a good visual of what is popping out and what needs more support. For the mounting tape, it is best to keep to the outside edges so you can hide the shadows. Mine generally is only on the edges, except for one piece behind the wolf to make him stand out. A little goes a long way! Especially when you are using the thick kind of tape! (Seriously buy the thick kind, it makes life soooo easy!)
  
  As you build up your layers, you will find it magically starts to come together. Each layer had me so excited...! To keep track of how your picture is coming along, it is really easy to just hold it up in the air in front of a light. I kept holding mine infront of my lamp. The light comes through and shows you where you might need to double up on some of the paper so it is dark where you want it to be.
  
  After that, pop it in the frame and add on some lights to the back! I have yet to add lights to mine as they have not arrived yet, so definitely check out the two original posts I linked to above to help you out! Mine is just tested with christmas lights behind it temporarily.
  
  Seriously, try this out! It looks so complicated but it is sooo fun and I can't stop looking at it! You will find that the layers really do all the work and make a beautiful piece! If you have any questions, I will be happy to help you out as best as I can. :)
  

Materials:

Three 5-gallon buckets and one lid (Ace Hardware has white ones for $4, if you don't want orange or blue from HD or Lowe's.) All three cost $12-13.

THESE LEDS from Amazon. $13.59

THIS POWER SUPPLY, the Supernight LED Charger. It is $20.99. You will also need a power cord for it, which I recommend just going to literally ANY thrift store and picking out a nice three-pronged power cord. I'm fairly certain that any three-pronged power cord will work, so if you have one you're not using at home, you can use that.

THIS LED GROW LIGHT, which is 300w and cost $50.99.

TWO of these PC fans. Total cost $10.04.

I bought one of this black duct tape, one of this foil tape (although I recommend buying two, as I ran out with my first roll and had to buy another from the store), and also some double-sided tape, because, if your LED strip is like mine, the adhesive backing is almost nonexistent and the tape becomes necessary.

Oh, and good-quality velcro adhesive patches!

You will also need a power drill and a sturdy box cutter.



I started by taping the entire interior of one bucket with the foil tape, save for the bottom portion where the soil goes. Then I covered the outside with the black tape. Next I drilled holes in the bottom for drainage.

Then I took two of the other buckets and used a ruler's width to mark a cut line right below the lip of each bucket to create spacers. The process of cutting the plastic buckets was definitely the worst part of the process, especially since I didn't have a great cutter, so if you're getting a new one, don't be too cheap. I got this one and it's blade locking function no longer works after this project, so be advised. I lined the spacers with foil tape.

Using the remains of one of the other buckets, I trimmed more of the bucket down so that it's now only the bottom and stands 5" tall. I found some random large screws in my toolbox and drilled them around the circumference, which allows the rest of the bucket to be easily lifted off of the drain pan.

I then drew a circle about 1 cm in from the lip of the lid and cut that out. The light fits perfectly on it. There is lots of light escape at the rim, but it looks pretty cool, so I don't mind it for now.

For the power supply, I cut off the female end of the three-pronged cord I got from Arc Thrift and stripped the wires down a bit. There were three wires inside, green (ground), white (neutral), and black (live), which I then connected to driver. I was certain to unplug during any wire-play and I hope everyone else is, too.

The sidelights were sort of a struggle. I used a scrap of the buckets, like maybe 4-5 inches of bucket from about half-way down to a quarter, so not much. I then lined the inside with the double-sided tape, cutting strips, in an effort to conserve tape, which feels very stable. I drilled a hole and fed the cable through, then determined the best spot to drill a hole on the exterior bucket. It's about at the center of the bucket, or in my case, 13 cm down from the lip. Finally, I fed the LED cable through the exterior hole and the lights were basically in place, where it would sit right above the soil.

I didn't want to have to extend any cords, so I found an ideal spot to place the driver on the exterior so that all cables (LED strip, both fans) could reach their appropriate ports. I fixed the velcro onto the bucket and the driver and tidied the wires with some more duct tape.

Finally, I sealed the edges of both fans, inside and outside, with their respective tapes.


I'm pretty sure that's everything I've done to this point, but if I think of anything else, I'll add it. I'm likely going to black-out the spacers to reduce light leak.

Please let me know if you have any advice, questions, comments!

Thank you /r/SpaceBuckets, for the inspiration and wisdom!

A few items that will help with cable management:

• Cable Sleeve - simple, effective, and easy to use, but also requires some forethought to not end up with a cable snake. Since the material is soft it can be cut to length and used to go around corners. Also great protection from small pets.
  
  
• Double sided tape - Easy to use, and has a really good hold. Best use is for mounting your power strip. Down side is that it will most likely cause paint damage if it's ever removed.
  
  
• Cable Clips - great for directing the flow of wires. Simple to use, and hold quite well. Used with the cable sleeve, you can keep the wire snake at bay (cut a hole in the sleeve and poke the clip through while mounting to the wall or desk). Similarly with the double sided tape, you may have damage if you try to remove them.
  
  
• Velcro Straps - these have good length on them for help keeping multiple wires tightly grouped. The pack also comes with a good amount of them, in grey and black. The help keep the cable snake from bulging.
  
  

honestly its super easy...

u need

• 6 square feet of clear acrylic ($60 at home depot)
  
• 12 feet of plastic cornering ($5)
  
• good mounting tape ($5)
  
• 15 feet of LED strips ($28)
  
• One way mirror film ($10)
  
  
  how to assemble:
  
  

1. Use a utility knife and a straight edge to score and cut the acrylic sheets. U don’t need to cut all the way through just enough to snap it over the edge of a table. Should be left with six 12” squares of clear acrylic.
   
   
2. Dry build the box (i just used masking tape to hold it together) and just cut the corner guard to the needed length for each side.
   
   
3. Apply the mirror film to acrylic
   
   
4. Dry build the corner guard into a box (ur trying to achieve a frame) and place the mirrored acrylic into place, EXCEPT the top piece. That u just set on top of the frame.
   
   
5. Lay in the LED strips (just tape them in place for now). Theres a way to do it where u only need to over lap 3 times, its impossible to cover every edge without overlapping.
   
   
6. Ur practically done! Just go back and use the mounting tape to set everything in place. For the top piece, use velcro on the corners and just stick it in place. This will save u a lot of frustration and time (trust me).
   
   Thats pretty much it. I kinda just started making it and winged it the whole way. Longest and hardest part is cutting the acrylic but its not that bad. Whole thing took me abt 2 trips to home depot and 3 hours over 2 two days (mirror film take 12 hrs to set). All and all, it was really easy. It helps to have someone help build, but theres nothing u really can’t do by urself. Hope u guys enjoy! reply w questions abt stuff n ill try to answer
   
   ill edit this post later to include the amazon links to the LED strips and include pictures
   
   Edit: Added links
   

I believe my two sticks are heavier than your 3D Pro. I used to have a "Logitech Wingman Extreme Digital 3D" (just a bizarre name).

Anyway... when AC 0.8 came out way back when, I had the same issue with my Wingman sliding around. Then, someone on this sub recommended using Scotch Restickable Dots.

I bought one of those giant "mouse" pads that takes up almost the entire length of my desk, slapped some dots under it to firmly lock it to the desk, then put dots on the corners of my sticks and slap them onto the mouse pad. My sticks don't move. It's quick, easy, and the dots are washable/reusable. The only thing that happens is my giant mouse pad tends to slide up over time. Maybe once every few months, I have to redo the dots that hold it to the desk.

Some people use velco or hook-n-loop fasteners. Yes, those would give you a strong hold but require you to attach (semi-permanently) one side of the velcro to the desk. I didn't want that. The Dots are sticky but come up easily and leave no residue. The force I exert on the sticks while playing is enough to keep the dots stuck to my pad.

I've researched some serious long term mounting solutions, but I have some very strict requirements.

1. It needs to be stable and secure and not wobble or shift.
   
2. It needs to be quickly and easily removable or movable because my computer is my office/work computer first. I can't have flight sticks in my way.
   
   I stumbled upon the RAM Mounts product line. Seems mostly perfect for my needs... VERY secure AND lockable/movable/adjustable. BUT, it's a bit more than I want to spend... so that's on hold.

3/4" heatshrink to go over the ESC's. 0.25" I think to go over your battery cables. 5/8ths maybe to cover XT60 connectors. Wire sleeves aren't needed. I hold stuff down with double sided tape. or a wrap of electrical.

Thin solder, you'll thank me. Along with a pencil tip for your iron. You'll want ?14G? wire to solder a power lead, confirm this. I also didn't have a 5V step down to power my FC on my first build. You'll want one. Many PDB's have one integrated. That makes it easy.

Purple Loctite or your frame will vibrate itself apart, Real quick. Don't use this on Nylon, and don't get it on the motor shaft, but it is extra important to use on motor mounts though. Just be careful.

A battery buzzer that you can solder onto your PDB is nice. Adhesive velcro is good if you want to use that in addition to battery straps. Either that or hobby foam. A parallel charging board is nice to have so you don't lose an entire day charging batteries. Learn to use it.

I personally replace all my stock hardware with Aluminum Cap screws because I want to cut weight and I hate dealing with stripped hex heads. Not needed though. Zip ties are good to have. A bundle of black ones will work. I've found the colored ones are more prone to breaking. They are good to hold antenna wires.

90deg pin headers are nice. My FC didn't come with those, only straight, and stack height is a real problem with straight pins. Extra props. You'll want those. 8mm socket to remove prop nuts. 3mm allen key. USB to micro USB cable to update your FC. Some XT60 connectors.

Beyond that, I'm sure I'm over looking some things. After a couple of builds you just have extras of stuff so you overlook.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PS9S3M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.fastener-express.com/aluminum-fasteners-nuts-washers.aspx

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GOL5CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094EJG3K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you do decide to get it, I just have two suggestions for setting everything up:

1. The double sided tape they send for the back camera is okay, but mine fell off after a few months. I replaced it with 15lb double sided tape (link), and it had been perfect ever since. I'd recommend doing the same.
   
   
2. The cord for the back camera is super long, so I'd check on YouTube for examples of how to get it to the back of the car. I wound mine through the "holding bars" on the roof of the car.
   
   Anyway, have a great start to your 2017! :D

> Well shit didn't think about that with the controller. Here is exactly what I ordered.http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-th9x-r9b-9channel-radio.html

According to the description it comes with a receiver.

> Just bought 2 of the 3S 5500mAh 30-40C

That should do you nicely.

> Any other random things you think we will need

Using amazon links and favoring prime options even if a few $$ more. The most cost effective way to get any of the below would be ebay and slow free shipping.

• Double sided mounting tape to help hold the ESCs, receiver, or flight controller in place. I do NOT use the "heavy duty" or "permanent" mounting tape as you may want to move things around or swap out parts at some point. My preference is the 3M/Scotch Clear Mounting Tape as I find to easy to remove from the surface. Should be able to find the mounting tape at hardware store or even a target/walmart.
  
• Heat shrink tubing
  
• You'll need a way to connect your batteries to your power distribution board. The batteries you picked use a Dean-Style T Connector. You'll need to make a connector cable like this to attach to your power dist board. - Image. You can either make your own cable from scratch or cut and repurpose existing cables.
  
• From "Scratch" - Connectors + Wire + some heat shrink and soldering time.
  
• Repurpose - Buy one of these, cut off the unneeded end, and solder to the S550's power distribution board. http://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Tamiya-Charge-Adapter/dp/B0035OYLU8/
  
• Parallel battery connector. Gives you the option to either run one or two 5500mAh batteries. Making a 11000mAh for long flights - http://www.amazon.com/Deans-Ultra-Battery-Harness-Parallel/dp/B000RGZ07A/
  
  
• If your radio receiver doesn't come with servo leads you'll need them to connect between the radio receiver and the flight controller (and gimbal)
  
• Short - http://www.amazon.com/deep-deal-10cm-Servo-Extension-Cable/dp/B00BL0YGS0/
  
• Extension - http://www.amazon.com/VIMVIP-Female-Futaba-Extension-Control/dp/B00N8P8TT8/ Might be needed to run leads to the gimbal for tilt control. Prime... so you can wait on this till you know if the other servo cables will be long enough.
  
  
• Battery straps. I'm running out the door so can't search/grab more links right now, but you'll need some velcro straps to hold the battery or batteries in place.
  
  
• You'll want to check ebay for extra S550 arms if you haven't already. Shipping will take a while, but they are cheap and good to have some spare arms, as they will break. Alternate front/back/side colors are nice to help maintain orientation in the sky.
  
  
• Extra props is you haven't ordered any. NOTE: The DJI E310 Power set uses the newer 9450 DJI props instead of the older 9443
  
  

I've been asked this several times haha. I'll do a little explaining now, but I think it's time I put together an album explaining it with pictures.

I used the following wiring harness:
OPT7 Offroad Light Bar wiring Harness Kit (4 Items), 380W - Single Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K1NS0PS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u9hrxb06G38RA

The wiring is in a protective plastic/rubber sleeve. I ran the sleeve up the side of the windshield. On my windshield there's a slight gap between the metal of the body and glass, like the Rubber seal is set in a little bit. I cut a thin strip of 3m exterior mounting tape and used a screwdriver or something to push it into the gap.

Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape, 1-Inch by 60-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UaLrxbHN01CVZ

The adhesive tape has held up all winter and about a total of 8 months, so I'd say it works well.

I ran it up the passenger side because the way my light bar was the wiring came out on that side, plus you don't see it easily everytime you get in the car. You could do the drivers side also. The wiring harness I used was basically just long enough. I'd recommend starting from the light and working backwards to the battery, that way you don't have any extra wiring up top.

You can also use some type of adhesive wire clip to guide the wire down the rain gutter thing so it's a little more secure till it gets to the light. I attempted to do this, but I had trouble getting the clip things to stick.I'll probably try to redo it soon.

Like I said, I'll try to get some pictures when I get around to it to help explain it further.

This way is a lot easier and "safer" than drilling through the roof or something.

I've seen a few of these built, so I wanted to give them a try. Flew some sorties tonight and pretty happy with them so far. Really nice to have something which can be removed easily when I'm done.

3" Drill Press Vice

Steel brackets

Extreme Velcro

I found this extreme velcro on a whim and it's awesome. It adheres to anything and locks your stick/throttle down tight, yet can still be removed when you are done. I used it to attach my IR clip to the headphones, and it's great there also.

Boards are simply a cheap bamboo cutting board I got at Walmart and sawed in two. Add the bolts and screws and I'd say this whole thing was less than $50.

Maybe be aware the brackets are on the small side, so if you want something that will hang lower, you'll want to look at something different.

Edit: just wanted to say....you'll need to wipe down the vices when you get them. They are covered with a light oil to prevent rusting I'd guess. Take a rag and give them quick wipe all over (the jaws too, they will leave a mark on your desk!)

here is what i used:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJKOCBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_5s0HAbREM7Z6Y the lights make sure its set to cool white if you are buying your selfnow the cable for the top most light is a bit short so u can always cut and solder a bit from the bottom light to the top one if you don't want the mess that i havealthough i did try to make it as neatly as possible.for securing the wires i just used clear 4inch zip ties and tucked them behind the frame inside.https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-8-Outlet-Conserve-Protector-F7C01008q/dp/B003P2UMNK/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540851234&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=remote+controll+surge+protector got this surge protector it comes with 6 outlets which are controlled by a remote so you can turn on all the cases with 1 button

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Tough-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B00OXVG9FW to secure the lights i used this double sided tape

and a bit of weather seal to keep the dust out on all 4 sides u can pick some up at home depot or fleet farm just make sure its 5/16th size

will be posting a big figure unboxing a bit later and how they all look inside the case.

​

Edit: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40275846/ forgot to link the bottom shelf so here it is pretty sturdy for the price

1. I had different types of lines, apparently they are very smooth, so mine were 12ft each.
   
2. Exactly what I have, works fine.
   
3. Temp depends on what you do - some English ales are supposed to be at a little higher temp, while lagers are usually at lower. I set mine at 35 personally. When I was cold crashing I set it at 32 and froze my beer :)
   
   
4. I didn't do any insulation - seems to be fine, it doesn't turn on too often. I might do insulation at some point but so far it's fine, I think wood is a pretty good insulator.
   
   
5. I haven't found the fan for mine yet, need to do it to avoid freezing again. I was looking for 110v ones.
   
   
6. Just be aware that you'll be lifting 5 gallon kegs over there and the collar (and it's usually crowded and there is a bunch of lines too).
   
   
7. I got this one: https://www.barproducts.com/barconic-stainless-steel-drip-tray . It's fine size-wise, but I would probably get one an inch wider, it drips at the end of the tray. I attached it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083K36KA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . It's a glue tape that holds it really well, I can put a full mug there and it still holds.
   
   I would also recommend to buy this:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BO473HI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   fruit flies tend to get into the faucets and then you'll get one in the first glass of beer that you have.

It looks like the mount adheres to the windshield and the camera slides down on the mount so there isn't any adhesion between the mount and camera.

Whatever needs adhering prep it the same way I described above. Use Scotch Extreme, Gorilla , or something comparable. Make sure the tape is either black or clear. If it's grey or another color it will easily be seen from outside the vehicle (i.e. not stealth). After you prep the area make sure you don't touch any of the clean surfaces including the sticky part of the tape! Hold pressure on the parts for a little bit to make sure it sticks well.

Double sided tape would work if it's strong enough. Something like this stuff.

What case do you have? You may be better off using the side panel fan as intake so it gives your GPU fresh, cool air.

I can personally recommend this double sided tape.

I didn't use it for this purpose but I used it to stick something to my dashboard in my car, still holding strong.

Nice work by the way :)

edit: made a short video showing off the RGB in glorious 4k. Kick back, relax, and be mesmerized by the Trident Z. https://youtu.be/fSYkdc0yXbY

Hey, thanks for looking! Got my build up and running yesterday.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $310.00
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-U9S 46.4 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $60.00
Motherboard | Asus ROG STRIX Z270i GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | Purchased For $180.00
Storage | Intel 600p Series 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | Purchased For $162.00
Storage | Crucial MX300 1.1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | Purchased For $252.00
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB ACX 3.0 Video Card | Purchased For $360.00
Power Supply | Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply | Purchased For $120.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM 37.9 CFM 92mm Fan | Purchased For $11.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM 37.9 CFM 92mm Fan | Purchased For $11.00
Case Fan | Corsair ML120 75.0 CFM 120mm Fans | Purchased For $32.99
Other| Trident Z RGB DDR4 3200 2x8GB| Purchased For $135.00
Other| NCASE M1| Purchased For $230.00
Other| Cablemod RGB LED Strip| Purchased For $22.00
Other| 3D printed window mounts| Purchased For $36.87
Other| Tempered Glass Window| Purchased For $46.68
Other| Ensourced Custom Cables| Purchased For $95.25
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2064.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-27 16:39 EST-0500 |

I ordered a custom size piece of tempered glass from onedayglass.com. It is 12 7/8" by 9 1/2" and 1/8" thick and the light gray tint variant. I used the .STL files graciously provided by /u/asone_ and uploaded them to shapeways.com who 3D printed them and shipped them to me. I used this mounting tape to hold the two together. The tape was really thick and a pain to work with and cut to size. You may see some air bubbles in the last few pictures. Hopefully I can work them all out somehow.

The PSU cables are from ensourced.net and are the mind bender blue color. I bought the Corsair Shorty's and custom extensions. The lengths I got were 300mm for the 24 pin, 400mm for the CPU, and 300mm for PCI-E. All of them could be a bit shorter, but I am glad they all reach.

Bought this filter for the bottom intake fans.

I plan on stress testing and overclocking/de-lidding the 7700k in the near future.

Happy to answer any questions!

**UPDATE: download link for the files are now on thingiverse link so easier to get**

​

OK so here is the list of parts and the files you will need to do this mod

​

List-o-things

Link to the files you need is HERE (please be aware the sizing may need adjusting)(ALSO! The Clip holder wasn't made by me)

The Strap I'm using is HERE

Heavy duty Gorilla tape Double sided

2x M10 or M8* nut and bolt (you will need very short ones or be able to cut them down to size) (*M8 nut and bolt will give it room to move a bit).

​

Please feel free to use the files i have made but please give credit if you use or re-upload them, Thank you

​

Sounds like there could be some RF interference.

Try this USB hub and put the hub closer to where your controller will be, and then plug the MS dongle into that.

I have one on my desk with my Logitech keyboard and mouse dongles and it's worked great.

(Note it's USB2 on purpose, USB3 has been known to cause interference with wireless devices)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4YBR3Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Secondary tip:

If you put that USB hub on your desk and want it to stay put, these are great temporary fasteners:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y17T70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wouldnt it be much more cost effective without losing the stickyness if I used clips like these and replacing the adhesive to make it stronger with these. I'm planning to use a flat ethernet cable like this so the clips I think should be fine. The cable length is quite long, which is why I mentioned price as I need quick a few clips.

I agree. Industrial Velcro is incredibly strong, and if you properly clean the surface before applying the velcro, it'll last forever.
Plus, it has the added benefit of not adding more holes to your boat.

So my internet was having issues and I decided there has to be a better method. So I spent like an hour drawing something up in MS paint (I suck at drawing and can't use PS). Just as I'm getting ready to upload an image of it, I think about discs with a beveled inside grip and how I could make those stay better. So I come up with the idea for a little rubber or maybe some double sided mounting tape for added grip. This tape. Damn it. That's when I realized, that sort of tape with a modified L Bracket (so it looks more like an M) would be all you need, and would hold better than anything else out there. All that work for nothing. :(

The toggle bolt, or some type of fastener will indeed hold more weight and be a more permanent fix. However, you said you are a renter, which changes things.

In that case you might consider using a foam mounting tape, or the stronger exterior mounting tape.

Just make sure you clean both the back of the phone and the wall thoroughly, and then wipe both down with alcohol prior to tape application. If you put enough mounting tape on that phone, which looks fairly light, your troubles should be over. That's going to be your cheapest option that'll last as long as you are there and not require any special tools or wall surgery. Especially considering that wall looks pretty dodgy in the first place and trying to affix anything through it could be asking for more trouble than it is worth. If you owned it I'd advise different but that is not what you asked. Good luck.

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Exterior-Mounting-1-Inch-60-Inch/dp/B00004Z4BV

or

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

Both should do the job just fine. The second one is weaker supposedly but I'm pretty sure it's the one I used for my power strips and they've held up well. I always worry about going too strong and trying to remove it later.

Required Hardware includes:

Item | Link | Exact Item I Used | Cost ($ CDN)
---|---|----|----
Raspberry Pi kit | link | Close Enough | $78.95
Arduino Nano | link | Yes | $25.99/5
50W 5v Power Supply | link | No| $26.45
5m WS2812B LED Strip | link | Yes | US$24.89
HDMI Splitter | link | Yes | $28.99
HDMI to RCA | link | Yes | $18.89
UTV007 Framegrabber | link | Yes | $17.99
RCA Male/Male | link | No | $2.59
Power Bar | link | No, but I might buy it | $20.85
Double Sided Tape | link | Yes | $6.45
HDMI x3 | | N/A | $10
Mini/Micro USB Cables | | N/A | $10

Total: ~CDN $260

I have had good luck with 3M double sided glass mounting tape. Its a translucent 1mm thick rubber material with strong adhesive on both sides:
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

Here is an outdoor type:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Scotch-1-in-x-1-66-yds-Outdoor-Mounting-Tape-411DC-SF/100575385

I plan on storing my seeds for years. Here's how I do it:

1. Drill a 3/4" hole in the lid of a 2 or 4 oz. baby food jar, using a Forstner bit. Tape over the hole with micropore tape on both sides. Fill the jar half-way with Damprid (calcium chloride). Silica gel only gets RH down to 40%, whereas CaCl2 lowers it to <25%. Stuff the rest of the jar with cotton and screw the lid on. I stick the baby food jar to the bottom of a pint- or quart-sized wide-mouth mason jar using these from Wallyworld.
   
   
2. Put the seeds in small ziploc baggies or breeder's packs inside the mason jar. Make sure they're slightly open and not airtight.
   
   
3. Put some oxygen absorber packets in there.
   
   
4. Put the lid on and vacuum seal the jar with one of these and a vacuum pump. You can use a Food Saver pump if you have one but I went with a cheaper option. I squirt some silicone in a ring around the lip for a better seal to the jar sealer.
   
   
5. Screw the jar ring on and store the mason jar in the fridge.
   
   This method takes care of the 3 things that lower seed viability--humidity, oxidation (with the oxygen absorbers and vacuum seal), and temperature. I also plan on saving herb for the long haul like this, but with 62% Boveda packs instead of the CaCl2.

Loud whistle - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FOJRF64/

Heavy duty velcro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O6T2ZS

Sugru throttle nub - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

I liked the recent post with the bicycle bell mod, really anything to enhance safety, especially in NYC, where jaywalkers cross roads diagonally with their heads buried in their phones and then proceed to do the "evade me" shimmy when they finally see you coming.

I use it sparingly, 120 dB is on the human pain threshold for hearing, so it's quite jarring. A quick toot toot tends to resolve most antsy situations, but a nice sustained hard whistle can even help you be heard from inside yellow cabs.

Use the 3m clear double sided mounting tape. http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

I have used this for many different body molding/piece applications and holds up really well.

Cut and fit with a razor knife, clean affected area before applying and then use a small clip clamp or anything else to apply a big of pressure to it and let it settle and dry for a few hours, should hold up great.

I have even used it on exterior body moldings and holds up in the summer heat.

This stuff is awesome. I use it at work to attach signage in buildings. Its really strong!
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Mounting-4-inch-Inches-110-Long/dp/B000BL5ILY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1469589032&sr=8-3&keywords=3m+double+stick+tape

If you get the grey outdoor mounting strips, it will take out your drywall before it falls off (that may be a problem to take down but it's easy to install). It's crazy strong after it cures. It's the consumer version of the VHB tape compared here with rivets. We use it in our small batch manufacturing business....

EDIT: Packaging looks like this

Similar for me, but I went for actual heavy duty Velcro : https://www.amazon.co.uk/VELCRO-Brand-Heavy-Duty-Stick/dp/B00186Q7XY

This stuff is amazing. I've got an old iPad pro stuck to the wall with it aswell. Tried un-velcroing it the other day and gave up. Way too powerful.

This stuff is amazing. I have a radio and 2 small computer speakers mounted to the underside of a shelf on my radio desk. It peels off clean too! Been up there for 5+ years now. Give it a shot!

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Heavy-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B019HT1U9E?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B019HT1U9E

I stick them to the wall at light-switch level using these Scotch removable mounting squares. Come off nicely without damaging the paint. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00099E8DM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Always on a wall that the sun doesn't shine on and some of mine are Ecobee sensors so in a location where the motion sensor will be effective.

I used these (but more like 1"x3" instead of 1"x1") for mounting my Leap to the Rift and it works perfectly.

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Restickable-Inches-Squares-R100/dp/B0039N3QO2

I went through this issue myself, and I found a pretty good solution, I think. It'll take some time to setup correctly and you'll need to do some math, but it works.

Get these: http://www.amazon.com/Removable-Mounting-Squares-squares-108/dp/B00099E8DM

When you put them on your wall, push one side down for about 30 seconds against the wall, then put a corner of the sound proofing squares and press that into the pad for about another 30 seconds. I'd recommend using 1 square for each corner. They stay in place, and come off the wall without any marks.

I love the Gorilla Glue double sided tape I use it to hold phone holders on my dash, and dash cams to windshield. Holds up well in hot summer and cold winter.


edit: I linked to the Light weight version, I am using the heavy duty version
heavy duty double sided tape

Don't use the provided tape. Buy some like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Permanent-Mounting-Tape-Inches/dp/B00347A8GC/ref=sr_1_18?crid=1L0TL2R82UIAJ&keywords=3m+double+sided+tape&qid=1554233502&s=gateway&sprefix=3m+%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-18

​

Or this one for extra strength:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Exterior-Mounting-Tape-Holds/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1L0TL2R82UIAJ&keywords=3m+double+sided+tape&qid=1554233502&s=gateway&sprefix=3m+%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-3

ok I just googled "ipass velco", and got this

three doll hairs, free shipping(though its not prime so no 2day) a the nearest toll plaza to me is $0.55 plus gas brings it up to maybe a buck fiddy, two bucks at most. so yeah, it would be cheaper to just go to the toll plaza =D

A standard 60mm drill tip, makes a 60mm hole in your desk. I have one under my 1m mouse mat which has my keyboard, mouse and headset mix amp which cables go through to keep cables off my desk. Then I will drill another hole to the left of my peripherals for a wireless desk charger which is 60mm as well.

Another thing as some have mentioned are monitor arms, gives so much more desk room. Then another are cable clips and 3m scotch pads. These things keep cables off the floor and underneath the desk. (This is good for the cables now going through that hole you made earlier if you do do it). The 3m can then stick a USB hub under your desk to easily access a USB port to charge your stuff. Give me a second and I’ll link some of the stuff.

60mm wireless desk charger

Universal drill thing

Cable clips

Scotch 3m

Mouse mat

Headset hangar

Get the 3M brand mounting tape. This is the exact solution I use for my magnetic strip. It works great. Here's a link.

Gorilla is just a brand, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-6055001-Heavy-Mounting-Double-Sided/dp/B019HT1U9E

Most of their products really are quite good though.

Should be pretty common, would be surprised if Wal-Mart doesn't carry it.

Here is an example of the tape on Amazon (not affiliated with the seller).

Can you post an album of your setup and maybe under/around your desk? I put a lot of stuff under the desk that I dont nessicarly need to see all the time (USB hub, External hard drive)

Some general things that will help are Velcro Ties or for more permanant situations cable ties.
Also depending on the size or weight of your USB hub some mounting tape may help to keep it in place on your desk.

Yeah it is strong enough to hold with maybe a thin case, but the weight of the phone plus the fact that the coils to which the magnet stick are on the bottom 3rd of the phone make it tip over and fall as the slightest touch.

Despite this I've gotten it to work by sticking one of these on the mount.

Scotch Restickable Tabs, 1 x 1 Inches, 18 Squares (R100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039N3QO2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JdCIub0SRMC5A

Its stickiness combined with the magnetic hold the phone just fine! It even works in landscape mode!

Walls

• 2x Monster LED Strip https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  
• 2x(Pack) Art3d Wall Panels https://www.amazon.com/Art3d-Textures-Panels-Diamond-Design/dp/B073NZ67LK
  
  
• Scotch Mounting Tape https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Outdoor-Mounting-60-inches-411P/dp/B0083K36KA
  
  
• 3 Light Floor Lamp https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-64-Track-Tree-Floor-Lamp-Black/12173440
  
  
• 3x Monster RGB Bulbs https://www.walmart.com/ip/MONSTER-MOOD-LIGHTING-KIT-LARGE/769116611
  
  Room
  
  
• Fluance Ai60 Speakers - White Walnut https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-*Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• Kanto Speaker Stands 26" https://www.amazon.com/Kanto-SP26PLW-Bookshelf-Speaker-Stands/dp/B07K4XHRYM
  
  
• noblechairs ICON Chair - Blue/Graphite Real Leather https://www.amazon.com/noblechairs-ICON-Gaming-Chair-*Midnight/dp/B072JKB516
  
  
• Basenji/Boston Terrier Dog
  
  
• Sherpa Dog Cuddle Throw https://www.amazon.com/Life-Comfort-Microfiber-Polyester-Ultimate/dp/B01JNMI5BQ
  
  
• Call It Spring 10.5 Brisbourne https://www.callitspring.com/us/en_US/men/footwear/casual-shoes/Brisbourne/p/11152086
  
  
• Sandles - Generic (Circa 2011)
  
  
• New Balance 10.5 (Circa 2009)
  
  
• Uni USB C SD/MicroSD Card Reader https://www.amazon.com/MicroSD-Thunderbolt-Adapter-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B07DJT5GPT
  
  Desk (Left)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• XXL Mouse Mat - Map https://www.amazon.com/Cmhoo-Professional-Large-Computer-35-4x15-7x0-1IN/dp/B01F0XHA5E
  
  
• $150.00 US Cash
  
  
• Dell 24" Touch Screen https://www.amazon.com/Dell-P2418HT-23-8-Touch-Monitor/dp/B01NBX1Q2T
  
  
• Dell Keyboard https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Business-Multimedia-Keyboard-KB522/dp/B00CBDEEG0
  
  
• Dell Mouse https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-MS111-P-Optical-BUTTON-Original/dp/B014LDW8BK*
  
  Desk (Center)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 60x30 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA216030MY-Valencia-2-Inch-Mahogany/dp/B00272N3DK
  
  
• 2x Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2 https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26
  
  
• 2x Raspberry Pi 3B https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-MS-004-00000024-Model-Board/dp/B01LPLPBS8
  
  
• Raspberry Pi 4 2GB https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-4-2gb.html
  
  
• 1x(Pack) SanDisk 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-MicroSD-Ultra-UHS-1-Memory/dp/B00CNYV942
  
  
• Samsung PRO 32GB MicroSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B98GXQT/ref=twister_B07DLWKFTM
  
  
• Mercedes Petronas Lanyard https://f1store.formula1.com/stores/f1/en/product/mercedes-amg-petronas-lanyard/224526
  
  
• 2x Pixio 27" 95Hz IPS HDR https://www.amazon.com/Display-FreeSync-Certified-Productivity-Warranty/dp/B07PZX54QC
  
  
• Viotek 49" 144Hz VA HDR https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• 3x DisplayPort Cable - 6ft https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Capshi-Braided-Laptop-Monitor/dp/B07GDBXWCQ
  
  
• Cable Matters DisplayPort Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Extension-Feet/dp/B00L1K1G74
  
  
• Cable Matters USB 3.0 Extension - 3ft https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Extension-Black-Feet/dp/B00C7S1B4W
  
  
• 2x VIVO Gas Spring Monitor Arm https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Adjustable-Articulating-Counterbalance-STAND-*V001O/dp/B01NH0HTM5
  
  
• VIVO TV Desk Stand https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Universal-Screen-Table-STAND-TV00K/dp/B01CQ0E01Q
  
  
• ASUS ROG Mouse Mat XL https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Sheath-Gaming-Mouse-Pad/dp/B01G5ATZAE
  
  
• ROG Claymore Core Keyboard - Cherry MX Brown https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Claymore-Core-Cherry-Red/dp/B01NGTJBUA
  
  
• ROG Gladius II 12000 DPI Mouse https://www.amazon.com/ROG-Gladius-II-Origin-Acceleration/dp/B078YBG1VZ
  
  
• 2x Samsung Galaxy Tab E 9.6" https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Galaxy-Black-Wi-Fi-SM-T560NZKUXAC/dp/B0161UWH76
  
  
• 2x Walmart ONN 10" Tablet https://www.walmart.com/ip/Onn-10-1-16-GB-Android-Tablet-Bonus-20-off-Walmart-eBooks-Included/258891221
  
  
• 2x KABCON Tablet Stand https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Angle-Adjustable-Aluminum-Microsoft-Countertop/dp/B074J159V5
  
  
• 2x SmartStand Mobile Device Holder https://www.amazon.com/SmartStand-Mobile-Device-Holder-Phones/dp/B0036WTD5C
  
  
• Xbox Wireless Controller - Recon Tech Special Edition https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Xbox-Wireless-Controller-Special-Discontinued/dp/B06XT99YW5
  
  
• REMOTE (Yamaha Soundbar) https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-YAS-107BL-Built-Subwoofers-Bluetooth/dp/B071ZN5PSS
  
  
• REMOTE (Fluance Speakers) https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-Performance-Bookshelf-Amplifier-Turntable/dp/B07MKP345F
  
  
• REMOTE (Roku Streaming Stick+) https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Streaming-Stick-HDR-Streaming-Long-range/dp/B075XLWML4
  
  
• REMOTE (Viotek 49" Monitor) https://www.amazon.com/VIOTEK-SUW49C-49-Inch-Super-Ultrawide/dp/B07L44N45F
  
  
• REMOTE (Samsung 42" 4k HDR TV) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung-43-class-led-nu6900-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/6268402.p?skuId=6268402
  
  
• Fostex TH-X00 Ebony Headphones https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-fostex-tr-x00-ebony-headphones
  
  
• Gator Weighted Microphone Stand https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Frameworks-Weighted-Microphone-Dimensions/dp/B00BPELU68
  
  
• Blue Yeti Nano Microphone https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Yeti-Premium-Recording-Streaming/dp/B07DTTGZ7M
  
  Desk (Right)
  
  
• Alera Cherry Shell 72x24 https://www.amazon.com/Alera-VA257224MC-Valencia-29-12-Inch-Credenza/dp/B00272N3KI
  
  
• MSI GS65 STEALTH-006 Gaming Laptop https://www.bestbuy.com/site/msi-15-6-gaming-laptop-intel-core-i7-16gb-memory-nvidia-geforce-rtx-2060-512gb-solid-state-drive-matte-black-with-gold-diamond-cut/6321439.p?skuId=6321439
  
  Computer
  
  
• AMD - Threadripper 1950X 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor
  
  
• AMD - RX5700 XT 50th Anniversary Edition
  
  
• NVIDIA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Founders Edition
  
  
• Corsair - H115i PRO 55.4 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
  
  
• Asus - ROG ZENITH EXTREME EATX TR4 Motherboard
  
  
• 2x G.Skill - TridentZ RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
  
  
• Intel - Optane 900P 480 GB PCI-E Solid State Drive
  
  
• Western Digital - SN750 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
  
  
• Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV TG ATX Tower Anthracite Gray
  
  
• Corsair - HX Platinum 1200 W 80+ Platinum
  
  
• Red Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Sleeve-Extension-Extra-Sleeved-PIN-Red/dp/B0719Q59YC
  
  
• (Software) Windows 10 LTSC
  
  
• (Software) GameGlass

Would you be able to mount your surge protector under the top of your desk with something like this? And route your wires through the hole in your desk for a cleaner look.

In extreme heat - Grey/white/clear double sided mounting tape.

In colder weather - Gorilla Heavy Duty Double Sided Mounting Tape

Also make sure the surface is cleaned before attempting to stick to it. Oil/dirt/dust will prevent good adhesion.

The microdrive can be replaced with a CF card (or SD to CF adapter). Just use some foam padding, like these mounting squares, to ensure it’s not moving around in there.

It can charge over USB. It’s actually the first iPod model that can charge over USB.

You can drill some holes or use the tape of the gods. This stuff is great to have around regardless.


Regarding fans, it is 4 channels not 4 fans, I'm about to put 12 onto mine.

Get some good double sided tape.

I've used this and it has held up well to the British winter so far.

To get it off cleanly just use some hot soapy water, it didn't leave a mark when I removed it before.

Most modern cases have some sort of 2.5 inch drive mounts as well.

Also, mounting tape works just fine as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Permanent-Mounting-Tape-Inches/dp/B00347A8GC/

I just used this:

Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1"x60" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R8G4BbHZHE925

Some people also use a Velcro system so they can remove it if they want but this seemed cleaner and it's just as easy to take off with the tape but you'll need to put a new piece on if you do.

For posters I think regular ol' blu-tack would work just fine.

I generally use mounting tape though. Probably overkill for posters. Looks like this. You can find them at pretty much any hardware store.

>I was wondering if there's anything I can use better than tape

3M VHB tape.

​

>that isn't harmful to my monitors

Well, RIP then...

A quick Google search turned up this article from ADL written following a 2015 Supreme Court decision about desperate impact and fair housing.

ADL put together this guide on the subject, it says

>For residents whose display of symbols is purely decorative, application of such a rule [banning the display any religious or secular symbol] does not violate the law. For a Jewish person who observes this religious practice, however, the rule means that he or she cannot buy, rent or remain in the property. This detrimental effect on Jewish residents, called “disparate impact,” also violates the Fair Housing Act.


So VA law, while relevant, may or may not protect you; however federal law apparently does.

The landlord may prohibit nails in a doorframe (especially a metal one) but Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape is a secure and non-destructive option.

i've been using these :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BV/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7VCYFA/

Let me tell the with gorilla stuff i do NOT doubt bit that it holds 30lbs, the bent ATX case bottom i jacked up trying to pry an SSD off of would be a testament, i'm lucky i didn't break the SSD or bend it's casing.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxpZHHJ8SOpRUVFJdEhfRl9IenM/view?usp=sharing

the 2 in the front and the 2 above the FBDIMMS, 1 stuck to the other and that one stuck to the case, holds a perfect 90 degree angle.

Sure, it doesn't need to be a specific tape, but I would use a velcro style like: https://www.amazon.com/Pass-I-Pass-SunPass-Adhesive-Strips/dp/B007BH5848/

I wouldn't use a foam tape as I would be concerned it would not stand up to the heat on the back of the television over time.

3M itself just referring to the adhesion brand - but there are other options out there.

I bought some 3M tape off of Amazon, to mount a sign onto brick. It sticks like crazy. I don't see why this couldn't work for you. These new doorbells aren't very heavy. Just try to clean the surface with soap and water before using the tape.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's the exact stuff I used. It's about twice as thick as the lightstrip but it's much better than any foam tape I've tried.

These are amazing if they will stick.

We recommend using the 3M or Scotch indoor outdoor Mounting Tape. It's gray with a red peel off backing that you can cut to fit. It can be found at Walmart or your local hardware stores. Below is a link to the tape from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-4011-Exterior-Mounting/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498474461&sr=8-1&keywords=3M+Scotch+4011+Exterior+Mounting+Tape%2C+1+in+x+60+in

Foam tape is the real hero here.

I use these lights mounted with this tape along the bottom of the walls (~4" gap between the floor and the floorboards). They're quite bright on the white setting, and underlighting is far less annoying than overheads, since it isn't shining in your eyes while you're on the bench. End result looks like this

2 of those

Large Yellow Multipurpose Car / Household Cleaning Sponge https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01NBUA7K9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CzRMAbA673C20

and this

Gorilla Glue 3044101 Heavy-Duty Double Sided Mounting Tape, 25.4 mm x 1.52 m https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01FMXKIOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hBRMAbD4G6VXX

would probably be a whole lot more comfortable if you can add your own about of foam to each section and they apply it to the headband.

Alright so a list I've put together in no particular order:

• Motor covers (http://www.banggood.com/Kingkong-Universal-Motor-Cover-Protection-for-22-Series-Motors-M38-p-1042352.html?rmmds=cart_middle_products)
  
• Landing gear (http://www.banggood.com/Realacc-50PCS-Landing-Skid-Gear-Frame-Anti-vibration-M3-Sponge-for-ZMR250-QAV250-210-RC-Multirotor-p-1081168.html?rmmds=cart_middle_products)
  
• 90 degree rp-sma extension cable (http://www.banggood.com/5cm-RP-SMA-Male-to-RP-SMA-Female-Right-Angle-Cable-p-956188.html?rmmds=cart_middle_products)
  
• 1000uf Capacitor (https://www.racedayquads.com/products/panasonic-1000uf-35v-low-esr-capacitor-for-noise-reduction?variant=45234655891)
  
• Anti-Vibration Standoff (https://www.racedayquads.com/products/fc-anti-vibration-standoffs-m3x7-4-5-4-piece-set?variant=43023554451)
  
• Smoke Stopper
  (https://www.racedayquads.com/products/smoke-stopper-by-rdq-and-bengineeringlabs?variant=816638722059)
  
• Double sided foam tape (for motor/camera soft mounting)
  (https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Mounting-0-75-inch-350-inches-110-Long/dp/B000BL5ILY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505020648&sr=1-4&keywords=3m+foam+tape&linkCode=sl1&tag=fpvknowitall-web-20&linkId=599cadbff0b3d54bfd0a012eec58a7fe)
  
• Heat shrink tubing
  (https://www.amazon.com/SummitLink-Assorted-Shrink-Tubing-Sleeve/dp/B01CNGUW4M/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505136308&sr=1-4&keywords=heat+shrink+tubing&linkCode=sl1&tag=fpvknowitall-web-20&linkId=2aec2a62d28358eb81479eb542763df4)
  
• Braided Cable Sleeving
  (https://www.amazon.com/Expandable-Braided-Sleeving-Blackred-Tech/dp/B074LVRHX8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1520782542&sr=8-6&keywords=cable%2Bsleeve&th=1)
  
• Velcro (for holding batteries in place)
  (https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Hook-Loop-Fastening-0-75-inch/dp/B004AF9II6/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1520782762&sr=8-11&keywords=velcro+tape)
  
• Zip tie + coffee stirrer for receiver antenna protection?
  
  If you have any other products you swear by or tips/tricks for building a sweet drone, I'll add it to the list.
  

The power strip is attached with this tape. I used cable clips similar to these but replaced the crappy tape that comes on them with the same stuff I used for the power strip. The ones I actually used I found at Ace Hardware. All of the power bricks are attached with Velcro so that they can be easily removed. I also used these cable ties so, again, everything can be easily removed. I was able to pick it all up at Ace Hardware but if you're not near one of those I'm sure Homedepot or any hardware store should carry most of this stuff. Hope this helps!

I should have just put the link in my original comment... I'm lazy :P

Here ya go... It's even cheaper than when I got mine. Now $3.33 with free shipping. It is NOT a high quality dock, but it definitely works with a (larger) case on the phone. I used some 3M double sided tape. This tape is STUPID strong, and has a variety of uses. I always have a roll in my tool kit.

Here are some techniques that other customers have used and had some success with.

A. Use a 2" long peace of Monofilament fishing line or dental floss as a saw to cut the 2-sided tape. Place the line between the device and the surface it is stuck to, and saw as you pull the line across the surface.

B. Using a dull butter knife by prying at the corner of the device and slowly work your way around the device while prying a little at a time.

abode does not sell the two sided tape so we recommend using the 3M or Scotch indoor-outdoor Mounting Tape, it is gray with a red peel off backing and you can cut to fit. Found at Walmart and your local hardware stores.

Link to the tape of choice:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-4011-Exterior-Mounting/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498474461&sr=8-1&keywords=3M+Scotch+4011+Exterior+Mounting+Tape%2C+1+in+x+60+in

Is this one good?

They'll mail them to you for free, but that won't happen in two days.

Amazon sells them:
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Holder-Mounting-3M-Fasteners/dp/B007BH5848/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473861514&sr=8-4&keywords=Ez+pass+Velcro

i pop my battery off to charge it, i use industrial ( for want of a better word ) velcro, this is what i use.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00186Q7XY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What 3m tape did you use? 3m makes a huge variety of different thickness and stickiness.

I would bet money you weren't using the 4011 kind. This stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Exterior-Mounting-1-Inch-60-Inch/dp/B00004Z4BV

Use appropriate tape and you should be fine.

You're supposed to use a cleat for mounting heavy things to drywall. These ones are great, if you're cool with waiting on shipping.

Failing that, mounting tape. Holds 1lb per 2in of tape, so get two rolls.

What about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-16-Pairs-PH204-16ES/dp/B073XS3CHV?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

Or this:

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Heavy-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B019HT1U9E

Or Hot glue?

Wilson Advantage Tennis Racquet Over Grip . The grip won't stay on by itself so you will need double sided adhesive of some sort. On this mouse I went with Gorilla double sized tape. The double sided gorilla tape is pretty thick. use Duck Brand Double-Sided Duct Tape if you wanted the thinnest possible tape with insane grip.

this is where I saw the idea:

• https://youtu.be/Itd_ETtRKjM?t=307
  
  the tape I told you:
  
• 3M Scotch 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape, 1 in x 60 in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ngr2AbW1R8XNH
  
  If you can find either of the products, it should work :)

I got some kind of command heavy duty roll with no non sticky parts, rated up to 5lbs for huge pictures. Good to know that it works with the actual strips through.

(Edit: this)

A little bit of This

A little bit of That

A few of These

Only one of These

And if you're feelin' frisky, one of These

Good to know, I'll just go to a cabinet store soon, and this the 3m tape?

3M Scotch 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape, 1 in x 60 in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ju0pzb6J6NH24

the good stuff

I keep a roll of this handy at all times. There are different versions, this one is a good one to have around.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Mounting-4-inch-Inches-110-Long/dp/B000BL5ILY/

Like these? http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Exterior-Mounting-1-Inch-60-Inch/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453050854&sr=1-1&keywords=Scotch+Exterior+Mounting+Tape%2C+1-Inch+by+60-Inch

I guarantee this will not fail you.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Mounting-5-Inch-75-Inch/dp/B00004Z498/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1417468989&sr=8-7&keywords=double+sided+tape

Double sided tape failed me too until I bought this one. It's been over a month and it hasn't fallen yet. It's still really solid.

Gorilla 6065001 Tough & Clear Mounting Tape, Double-Sided, 1" x 60", Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXVG9FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_C3laBbWV649ZY

I just use Scotch indoor mounting tape and attach them straight to a wall. Works very well on most of my patches, although a few stubborn ones from my SpaceX patch collection keep falling off every few weeks or months. If they keep falling, just add more tape to cover a greater percentage of the backing surface area. Other non-SpaceX patches don't seem to fall off as easily, it's something about the iron-on backing material SpaceX uses which doesn't like adhering well to the tape.

I put at least one of these at each bedside, 2 in the master, one in the living room and mounted it with this to keep it from walking away. Also if an outlet was not easily accessible at the the bedside I put in an extension so there was. Lot of people use CPAP machines now. Got tons on compliments on the setup.

Scotch Clear 3M Mounting Tape
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gChwzbA01A1JK

The 3M Permanent Mounting Tape is great stuff. I used it to reapply molding that had fallen off the outside of my car door, and it has held up for years through New Jersey winters and Arizona summers.

Something like this?

I'd recommend this stuff rather than any sort of velcro.

You can use double sided tape like this, or you can opt for removable hooks and put up canvas pictures.

I recently started using Scotch Indoor Mounting Tape, 1-Inch x 125-Inches, 1-Roll (314P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007P5G8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2K4ozbBQQ3846 and I've been extremely happy with the hold on heavier metal figs. I have to pop the base off with a knife, but the mini stays put.

What you're looking for is 3M VHB tape.

You will need to clean of the residue. Try and rub/roll up what's there with the pad of your thumb. If you don't have luck, you can try alcohol and/or naptha (lighter fluid).

Once the surface is clean and dry on both the bumper and Surface, you can use an appropriate width VHB tape. It's not cheap stuff, but it's used to hold badges on cars and windows on skyscrapers. It's the right tool for the job.

You might want to give this stuff a try.
http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Tape-6065001-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00OXVG9FW

Im going to buy some for when I setup the lighthouses at work. We are in a brick building so im hoping it will stick well to the brick. It says it does...

This works very well - Scotch double sided mounting tape

Scotch Exterior Mounting Tape, 1-Inch by 60-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_XUNCub14B9Z4N

It never leaves a residue, sticks almost permanently to itself, and can hold quite well to even porous surfaces.

I use 3M mounting tape. I believe it is called Scotch in the US. Could be this one. It is transparent and quite thick and sticks really well. This one says permanent where the one I use says removable.

There's one for doors called Magic Mesh. You can also rig one up yourself with super strong tape and a roll of screen from a hardware store, but the magnetic closure is what makes Magic Mesh so convenient. I'd opt for the removable screens noted above.

I used this stuff on popsicle sticks and stuck different grits of sandpaper to them. It works pretty well. I suppose you could also stick a bunch of pieces side by side on sandpaper to make little square pads if you wanted to. They probably sell it at hardware stores or retail stores. Craft stores also sell foam sheets you could cut up and glue or double sided tape sandpaper to.

Gorilla Heavy Duty Double Sided Mounting Tape, 1 Inch x 60 Inches, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019HT1U9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_agcKDb57HPFPR

No issues. Use this stuff all the time, holds a lot of weight. I've used this set for 4 months and it survived me going on vacation too.

3M Scotch 410P "industrial strength" clear double sided tape. Haven't taken it up to highway speeds yet but it stays on fine at 40mph. Unfortunately it covers up the sun visor mechanism so I can't put the sun visor down with the hat attached.


Edit: highway speeds are quite the neck exercise

Hmm. I wasn't planning on gluing the mirror to the shower wall. I want the mirror to be able to be removed, without leaving any marks.

Is there an adhesive you recommend, that can be removed from the cultured marble panel, if/when the mirror gets taken down?

I was thinking that I might be able to screw a support block into the drywall that is located above the panel, so that I do not have to drill a hole in the cultured marble. Here's a rough image of what I'm thinking of doing.

Or, I could screw two hooks into the above drywall, drill two holes in the top of the mirror frame, and have the mirror hang by chain. I'd maybe caulk a bit of the mirror to the panel, to keep the mirror from swaying back and forth .

I am also considering waterproof-rated, heavy-duty, double-sided tape (something like this product), but I'm not sure if that will hold up.

You should get the SF450 with the Node 202. Use double sided mounting tape for the SSD.

You won't be hitting over 300W with most Node 202 build. The SF450 is noticeably better quality, quieter, and is modular. The FD Integra may work for a locked i3/i5 + 1060 or 1050, but anymore than that you should get the SF450.

I kept the dealership plates, which are made of think cardboard material, underneath my real plates. That prevents mine from rattling.

On my other car I used this: http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Mounting-5-Inch-75-Inch-110/dp/B00004Z498

Its a thick mounting tape with I stuck to the back (only bottom side) of my plates. That helps from rattling.

Gorilla Tough & Clear Mounting Tape, Double-Sided, 1" x 60", Clear or many other double sided tapes on the market.

I think that gorilla stuff could support a engine block on a wall, so you might only need the lighter kind. Go to local hardware store, you will see lots of options.

this
You should apply it when it's above 50 degrees. Otherwise, warm up the wall, apply and hold for a minute or two to adhere.

I have 3 on my brick wall.

Alright, so I got double sided gorilla tape

Man, I don't know how this stuff works so good, but it is no joke. when you handle it yourself, you're gonna be skeptical that it has any significant grip at all, but you just need to apply some pressure between the surfaces and its on there for good.

Try this 3M Scotch Permanent Outdoor Mounting Tape. It last through baking heat and freezing snow. Make the most use of all surface area. Like MrPolymath said, heat the tape first (I sit on it for a few minutes). When you apply it, press on the radio hard for 30 seconds. I think it'll hold.

You could try a speaker mount like this, this or this. I wouldn't recommend drilling into the device to mount to it but it should be light enough that you could 2 sided tape it to the mount.

I know this isn't the most professional and probably not the most popular but I use this tape to mount all my SSDs into 3.5" bays. I've been doing it for years without any problems whatsoever. It doesn't affect the appearance either

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0083K36KA/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517986552&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Outdoor+double+sided+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=51F9wufSihL&ref=plSrch

How are you hanging them currently? I have a ton of this stuff up on my wall and I use 3M mounting tape. It hangs like a charm and if I need to move a panel, the tape comes right off, no damage to the wall or anything. I put up a link to the amazon page, but you can get that stuff at Walmart very cheaply

I used this to my hold escs, RX, and VTX. Do you think this is up to the task of holding on in a crash, or should I add zipties. Thanks

heavy duty velcro like this

Some 1/4" x 1/4" squares of 3m 4010 double sided tape would have helped in that situation.
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

This. Nothing will every fall off the walls. Ever.

I love this stuff

This kind, obviously

Gorilla Heavy Duty Double Sided Mounting Tape, 1 Inch x 60 Inches, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019HT1U9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ifYHDbBDFPAP9

I don't have that table. I use a 5 foot long plastic table^1 and I attached a surge protector to it with this Gorilla double sided tape ...maybe it's 6ft?

I put tape on the back, covering the whole length of the back so the weight is distributed throughout.

All you Britons out there! Start sealing your envelopes with duct tape. Or this incredibly sticky mounting tape. Would be almost impossible to open the envelope without leaving evidence of tampering.

3m outdoor double sided tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Exterior-Mounting-Tape-Holds/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1535836029&sr=8-4&keywords=3m+outdoor+mounting+tape

The pocket clip is a Nite Ize Hipclip and I used Double Sided Gorilla Tape to stick the two halves of the bit kit together.

this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Permanent-Mounting-Tape-Inches/dp/B00347A8GC

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Double-sided-mounting-tape-Tapes-Glues-tapes/4294417407

This? https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Heavy-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B019HT1U9E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541299551&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gorilla+double+sided&dpPl=1&dpID=512-EL4LnLL&ref=plSrch

This is what I used. Heavy-Duty Exterior Mounting Tape, Holds 5 lb., 1"x60" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xjM3BbXV25CPN

They are conservative with their estimates. I have a Corsair 200R, the allowable height is 160mm. I installed a glass window on the inside with mounting tape, so the clearance should be 160mm - thickness of the glass - thickness of the mounting tape. I got a 165mm air cooler, it fits.

Now that I have time. I used these: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Mounting-Squares-64-Squares-108-SML/dp/B004QMQ12E/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_229_lp_img_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GATFBHEBCS36JGBV9RC4

http://smile.amazon.com/Scotch-Exterior-Mounting-1-Inch-60-Inch/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419191264&sr=8-2&keywords=3m+mounting+tape+4011 Use this shiz right here.

THIS SHIT

Scotch Outdoor Mounting Tape, 1-inch x 60-inches, Gray, 1-Roll (411P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083K36KA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_F9ZOzbH4HQFEQ

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Heavy-Duty-Mounting-Clear/dp/B00004Z4BU

I've thought of simply getting some of these and making a display on a blank wall in my room by my pipe supplies. Just stick em to the wall.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Heavy-Mounting-Double-Sided-Black/dp/B019HT1U9E

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019HT1U9E/

3M Mounting Squares They do wonders

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Heavy-Double-Mounting-Inches/dp/B019HT1U9E

Just stick the device to the back of the TV and then use some twist ties to manage the extra cable.

You need:

• Common Yard Stick or other long 1" wide narrow strip of wood or metal. You need to be able to leverage a little force.
  
  
• Double-Stick foam tape.
  
  
• a bit of string or dental floss.
  
  The key for my plan is that the tape must have a peelable cover.
  
  Cut a 2" length of foam sticky off the roll. From that bit, cut off about 1/2" of the foam and one side of cover ONLY. Peel off the other bit.
  
  You should now have a 2" length of peel, 1.5" length of foam together. Stick the foam to the end of your stick, tabby side towards the end of the stick. Make sure it's good and stuck.
  
  Poke a hole on the 1/2" tabby on the 2" peel that's still on the strip of foam. Tie your string to the tabby through that hole.
  
  Shimmy your stick down to your phone. Get it very near your phone with the foam between the stick and your phone.
  
  Pull up on the string to peel away the tabby and stick it to your phone. Wait a minute for the glue to get going.
  
  Pull the stick/foam/phone assembly out and give gold.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z4BU?pc_redir=1407223822&robot_redir=1

I use this stuff - http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00004Z4BV?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 to attached a couple of strips of metal or wood to the back of a print, then string a wire between the two and hang the wire on a nail.

You end up with something approximating this mount sold by Posterjack - http://www.posterjack.ca/1.0/STATIC/CONTENT/Photoboard_Tabs/photoboard-hanging2.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BV/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the ticket right here, http://amzn.com/B00OXVG9FW That's the ticket right here

I've always done tape for alarm systems that aren't hardwired. Granted I don't use the included I use this stuff as it's way stronger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/

There are these really nice reusable adhesive gel mounting squares I use for posters and pictures.
Ive used the same $5ish pack for several posters and papers over the years and they don’t damage anything. They work sort of like those “sticky hands” you get in the gumball machines.

For some of the pieces you're not sure how to attach. Check out this stuff. http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Exterior-Mounting-1-Inch-60-Inch/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397179250&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+outdoor+mounting+tape

Used it for years in my R/C hobby, And am using it in my 540T and 900D in some spots. Stuff is absolutely awesome.. It's double sticky tape, that fucking works and isn't 1/2" thick.

I don't fully understand the problem. So apologies if these are out of left field, but magnets can work -- many contact chargers use them -- if the device has them embedded. Otherwise something like this mounting tape, cut appropriately, can hold just about anything while allowing for it to be removed.

This is the stuff holding my light strip to the back of my tv after the tape that came on the strips failed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXVG9FW/ref=psdc_1068992_t2_B019HT1U9E

Make sure you put it where you want it, it's not coming off after that.

Thanks! At first I thought I would have to bolt the window in, which I didn't like since it doesn't look as clean. I ended up getting double sided mounting tape from Walmart, I believe it was 3M brand. Similar to this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004Z4BV/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005SRECEU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=12EFEPSCVZ0AA4M6HESZ

So after I cut the window out with a dremel, I used rubber grommet edging that I bought at Performance-PCs (which is where I bought most of the modding supplies I used in this project) - http://www.performance-pcs.com/solid-wall-polyethylene-grommet-edging-with-adhesive-black.html to line the edge, then apply the mounting tape and set the window in.

After years of tape, I changed to putty. But then I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Restickable-8-inch-18-Dots-R105/dp/B007Y17T70/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519050026&sr=8-4&keywords=3m+sticky+dots

I've had the same set of stickies on my markers for over 6 weeks. They are totally washable ( when you're washing your hands), add just a drop of soap and rub them. You can feel the grime coming off of them. Then, I just let them dry for about 10 minutes. I keep them on a piece of film/plastic in my pocket. Life changing. They are very thin, so I doubled them on my marker to make it easier to use.

This double sided tape is finicky, but sticks VERY well: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Permanent-Clear-Mounting-pounds/dp/B00004Z4BU

I'm new to dios too, but the hobby costs so little in comparison to purchasing figures (and comics) that wasting a bit of material in testing and mistakes doesn't make too meaningful an impact on a budget.

Share what you make whenever you make it!

>pop off the the quartz front

if you want to put the quartz back, replace the adhesive with some double sided foam tape https://www.amazon.com/3M-110-3M-Scotch-Mounting-75-inches/dp/B00004Z498 and the jconnect will fit without butchering a $60 cable! :)

i didn't really finish the timing but https://gist.github.com/charlie-x/aba3728313d3da66565e027e048dce1e
just remember to change or remove the lyrics print if you just swap the song that is in there otherwise it'll crash.

These: http://www.amazon.com/Mainstays-Multi-purpose-Hanger-Clips-Piece/dp/B00GK8OVOC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

They have teeth so when removing them you want to be careful, so as to not tear off threads. I was a bit careless with adjusting one of the clips and it loosened a thread.

The clips are mounted to my wall with http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Glue-Heavy-Mounting-Black/dp/B019HT1U9E?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00 and mounting putty.

I used this double sided mounting tape to put them on the ceiling, link. I cut half inch squares and put three on each panel.

Light is attached to glass, I cut out a notch in the foam. I attached both using this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z498/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/175-5003817-9937017

I heat shrink them and then use 3M gel tape (it's super sticky and non-conductive but still removable) I also add a tie wrap over it for good measure even though it's probably over kill for small esc's.

You might be already using it. It's this stuff http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Mounting-5-Inch-75-Inch/dp/B00004Z498
I use as little as possible and take it off with a heat gun or hair dryer to keep it from ripping off the drywall.

I've got a roll of this just for sticking power strips to desks and shit without having to do any planning.

I'm installing some panelboard [1] to use dry erase board in my room, which I'm renting (and thus cannot drill). Will Velcro brand extreme outdoor strips [2] (which I already bought and used for one panel) damage my walls when I remove them? If so, how would I go about semi-safe removal / fixing the wall before I lose my security deposit?

[1] https://www.lowes.com/pd/DPI-47-75-in-x-7-98-ft-Smooth-White-Panelboard-Hardboard-Wall-Panel/3015239
[2] https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Extreme-Outdoor-Titanium/dp/B001O6T2ZS

SSDs have no moving parts. Half the time I just drop them in the bottom of the case or shove them in 3/5 or 5/25 bays. I don't care where they go. I'm also a big fan of 2-sided tape. That stuff I linked will hold anything inside a case with just tiny bits of it. I've stuck SSDs and HDDs to it, and I've even mounted fans in odd places with the stuff, just tape triangles over the corners.

I use that shit, it's insane. I tell everyone about it.

3M Scotch 4011 Exterior Mounting Tape, 1 in x 60 in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IrySzbRMNPGWX

3m heavy duty double sided tape.

BUT, when taking it down use dental floss to pull it off the wall, otherwise it will pull the paint and maybe drywall off with it. Shit if tough AF.

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Exterior-Mounting-Tape-Holds/dp/B00004Z4BV/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=3m+double+sided+tape&qid=1567187744&s=gateway&sprefix=3m+&sr=8-7