I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.

Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).

Hardware:

1. Get a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ from Amazon (seems to be the cheapest place, as it's $37.50 with free shipping there, but other stores charge $35 + like $5+ for shipping).
   
2. Mistake #1 for me: I went with a 256GB MicroSD because I WAY overestimated how much space I'd need, because I was looking at "complete" ROM sets that had a million duplicates, lightgun games, trackball games, spinner games, bartop touchscreen games, a bunch of adult stuff, like 500 Mahjong games, etc., and I knew I also wanted to download video previews for a Hyperspin-like setup. Depending on the systems you want to emulate, a 64GB MicroSD should be plenty. If you want to be safe (hey, maybe someday you'll get a modded control panel with a trackball, spinner, and maybe you'll do an AimTrak setup), go with 128GB. My 256GB card is a huge waste, as they're very expensive.
   
3. If you get an aftermarket joysticks/button kit, just go with the $56 Sanwa kit. I went with the EG STARTS joystick & LED buttons kit, and the buttons look and work amazingly, but the joysticks are garbage. They're worse than the stock joysticks; the only reason I'd use them over the stock joysticks is because they're 8-way (stock ones on the A1U MK cab are 4-way for some reason). The joysticks have WAY too light of a pull, and a pull-then-release will result in it springing back and hitting the opposite switch (for example if you pull left and let go, it'll spring back and briefly trigger the right switch). I got Sanwa sticks to remedy this, but it set me back $50 for those + another $10 for the 8-way gates, so that totals $115 for the controls. Don't worry, your A1U stock battops will work with those sticks.
   
4. If you want LED buttons (they do look incredible), then just get a cheap decent LED button kit of your choosing and spend $46 on two Sanwa sticks. You'll come out way cheaper than I did.
   
5. You don't need an amp for your audio with the RPi. I spent $20 on an amp and didn't even end up using it. Just plug some cheap powered PC speakers into your monitor controller board to use the HDMI audio. I then mounted the speakers to the top of my cab in the back, so they're not really visible but the volume knob on them is easy to reach. I've seen some people mount PC speakers right on the sides of the cab, but I don't like that aesthetic personally. If you want to go the extra mile (I plan to try), disassemble the speakers, mount them on the panel between the kickplate and the control panel (after making speaker holes or purchasing an aftermarket one with holes drilled already), and then make an extra hole in the center of that panel for the volume knob (just mount the board behind there, with the potentiometer sticking out, and then put the plastic knob right back on the dial to cover the hole).
   
6. You will need to drill two 1 1/8" holes in the panel between the control panel and kickplate for select/coin buttons. I've never done any woodworking in my life but was able to do this easily. All I did was measure the vertical halfway line (drawing a horizontal line with a square and a pencil), and then 1/3 of the total distance from both the left and right edges, drawing vertical lines. The intersections are where you drill your holes. Very simple. It's only a 3/16" thick panel so it's no sweat at all. Just be sure to remove the panel before doing this, and use some clamps to clamp it securely to a piece of scrap wood.
   
7. You can wire your RPi to use the stock A1U on/off switch. It's very simple, but you may need to reverse the switch (by just physically turning it around), or else it might be backwards ("Off" is "On" and vice-versa). It's just 2 wires. This'll have the added benefit of turning your RPi off cleanly, and also powering down all your peripherals, including the monitor and USB devices.
   
8. You're gonna want a bluetooth keyboard so you can access DIP switches in games, and use Linux commands.
   
9. If you plan on connecting any extra USB stuff beyond the controls, you'll want a good RPi power supply. You might also want a powered USB hub for extra power, because even the best RPi power supplies (true 3 amp) can't power more than 3-4 USB devices along with the Pi.
   
   Software:
   
   
10. Here's a really good clean 64GB Arcade-only RPi image. It includes all the descriptions and video previews, so you don't have to run a scraper.
    
11. If MK games have crackling audio, go into the DIP switch menu with F2 and turn the volume down to about 60%. Also turn the RPi volume down a bit, to no more than 75%.
    
12. Sometimes when using RPi images, the screen resolution is wrong; set it to 1280x1024. You may also want to disable bezels.
    
13. Some RPi themes only look good at 16:9 aspect ratios; my favorite 5:4 compatible theme is "Showcase".
    
14. If you see a yellow lightning bolt icon in the top right on the Pi, it means it's underpowered and you need to disconnect peripherals, get a powered USB hub for some of them, or upgrade your power supply. Seeing this symbol will cause slowdown in games and can potentially corrupt your MicroSD image entirely.
    
15. If you have a yellow FPS or 'frame counter' in the bottom left of your screen, do the following:
    
    Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go to Configuration and make sure Save Configuration on Exit is ON. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.
    
    None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!
    
    Here's a video of my modded cab:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8lNARvbiKA

It seems your original post slipped past my radar, but I work with this technology on a daily basis and would love to provide some help.


I'll get on to your product suggestions shortly, but I do need to address your understanding of power injection. The 50@5v or 100@12v "guidelines" are based strictly on standard-spaced bullet/square ws2811 strings; once you change the length/gauge of wire, this all goes out the window. In order to properly take on a project like this, you MUST have a through understanding of voltage drop. There are formulas (and simple online calculators) that will help you figure out the voltage drop over different gauge's of cable vs length. Power injection is simply a way to combat voltage drop.


The ONLY traditional advantage of 5v pixels was the ability to have individual control over each LED in SMD applications such as strip/rings/panels. There are now 12v individually addressable SMD LEDs such as the WS2815.
I would say the only advantage of 5v pixels at this point would be price, as they are more widely available and less in demand, due to the newer 12v chips. However, in reality, this savings will easily be eaten in more expensive (thicker) wiring and PSUs.


It is a little concerning that you state "i'm running at 12 volts," but you spec a 5v WS2812b ring. If you provide much more than 6v to those rings, you will permanently destroy them. You CAN use a small buck converter though, see below.


Here are my thoughts concerning your choice of LED: they are not the same as in the video. Your rings consist of 12 individually addressable 5v LEDs, while the video seems to use a single addressable source per lantern, most likely a 12v or 24v WS2811 "module" in each, similar to these: http://www.vozop.com/index.php/24v-ws2811-led-pixel-module-12leds-smd5050-rgb-light-20-pack.html


I don't think anything would be wrong with using the ring you spec, and if you have the time to program them neatly, then you could get some neat effects that wouldn't be possible with a single source per lantern. However, the work needed to wire these correct and neat would probably not be worth it in the long run.


Running a 5v system this far apart would require prohibitively thick/expensive wire, so in order to make it work, you will want to distribute power at a higher voltage and drop it down to 5v at each ring. This can be done with a simple and cheap buck converter like this: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI You will need to pick up a voltage meter (multimeter) in order to adjust the pots to the correct voltage, but honestly you shouldn't attempt a project like this without one.


The Tees you spec seem useless for your project, as they do not allow the pixel data to daisy chain between Tees. You will want what's known as a 3,4,3 Tee, like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-core-T-type-waterproof-splitter-the-middle-is-4core-female-BLACK-color-the-male-connect/1859056875.html You should then get the matching 4-pin pigtails for each ring, and solder them to the +, GND, DI and DO, in accordance with the pin out of the Tees. Don't forget to also pick up matching 3-pin pigtails to connect to your controller and extend distances between Tees.


Your power supply should typically be the last piece of the puzzle. Once you decide on the type of LEDs you are using, you will need to calculate their max current draw in full white, then find a power supply (or multiple) that can provide at least that amount of current. I typically like to spec a PSU that is at least 20-40% more output than required; this keeps things cooler and prolongs the life of the PSU.


Please feel free to ask any questions you may have, I realize this is a lot of information. It does seem like you have a good idea as far controllers and software go.

Pick up a G305. Also grab some lithium AAs as they last an insane amount of time and are lighter than normal AAs. I personally use a lithium AAA with half of one of these adapters to make it even lighter but the AA is already a massive decrease in weight.

It's a solid mouse with the same body shape as the Logitech G Pro (not the Pro Wireless, which is a totally different shape) and it's great for small/medium hands. That said I have large hands but claw grip and I love mine.

If you're new to buying mice, wireless and light mice might seem like "nice to haves" but especially for FPS games I feel they're imperative. As soon as it's in your hand and you play a match you'll understand. This is a great site to learn about solid mice and read/watch reviews on ones you'll be recommended like the G305.

Charger:

• Xtar PB2: 2x18650 power bank and charger, unprotected high drain cells only. Review
  
• ThruNite C2: 1x18650 power bank and charger. 2A output. Earlier versions of the charger had a fairly high minimum output current, but I believe this has been fixed.
  
• Nitecore F1: One of the cheapest charger/power banks. 1A output (and it struggles with that). Review.
  
  

  Keychain:
  

  
  

• Olight I1R: Sure, it doesn't have any LVP, and the battery is sealed, but other than that this this thing is great. It's small, bright, and well built.
  
• The Nitecore T series: The Tube, Tip, Thumb, and Tini are all worth considering.
  
  

  EDC Pocket:
  

  
  >( I am a bit confused as to why this has the HI on the product listing but all the features are the same as the SC64w but it loses 100 lumens? Should I just get the Sc64w?)
  
  The emitter it uses is a XHP35 HI, rather than an XHP35. The lack of a dome must affect lumen output somehow. It'll throw further though, and the beam should be better than the domed version.
  
  Zebralight is pretty hard to beat for EDC if you like that style of light.
  
  

  EDC Bag
  

  
  

  Headlamp
  

  
  Looks like you like what you have right now. I have no pocket clip suggestions.
  
  

  Thrower
  

  
  I'd suggest the SC600w mkIII HI or mkIV HI over the mkIV Plus. The HI emitters will mean more throw. Also, the mkIII HI had the second best tint of any Zebralight I'd ever owned.
  
  None of the lights you're mentioning are especially throwy. When I think of a thrower, I think of >300m. Try an Emisar D1. You can use it with high drain unprotected flat tops like Sony VTC6s or Samsung 30Qs, and then use those same cells in your Zebralights.\
  
  

  Car
  

  
  >Noctigon Meteor m43 - Big throw, great amount of lumens + a slew of amazing features.
  
  Again, the Meteor isn't a thrower. It's a very floody light. The only reason it throws 400m is because of the sheer amount of light it puts out. You can get more throw with a $25 1x18650 Convoy C8.
  
  When I think of a car light, I think of a light powered by 2 CR123As, placed in the car and left there until an emergency situation necessitates that you use it.

DaVinci IQ - $275

Pro:

• Very discreet (1.65" W x 3.54" H x 0.94" D)
  
• Great conduction vapor output with excellent flavor from ceramic zirconia oven
  
• Smart paths are a great and easy to use feature
  
• Precision temp setting option
  
• Good battery life and swappable 18650 batteries
  
• 45 second heat up time (to 370F)
  
• Haptic feedback
  
• Smartphone app available for customization of smart paths, but not required to utilize any other features.
  
• Very even heating without stirring (includes on-board stir stick)
  
• Includes 10mm mouthpiece for direct connection to water pipe
  
• Excellent build quality
  
• Can be used while charging
  
  
  Con:
  
• Requires the occasional good, thorough cleaning
  
• Not particularly efficient for smaller loads without [spacers] (https://www.davincivaporizer.com/iq-glass-spacers/) (though I have no personal experience with them)
  
• Can charge with USB but recommend external battery charger (such as Nitecore i2).
  
• 45 second heat up time
  
• Not suited to concentrates
  
• Unit can get very hot during extended/repeated sessions.
  
  =======
  =======
  
  Firefly 2 - $329
  
  Pro:
  
• Easily pocketable and still discreet but is a bit larger than the IQ (1.4” W x 5.1” H x 0.95” D)
  
• Flavorful convection vapor from long borosilicate glass path which provides cooler vapor
  
• Fast charging and swappable batteries
  
• On-demand vapor
  
• 5 second heat up time (to 400F)
  
• Smartphone app for customization and info, not required for normal usage
  
• Efficient for very small loads
  
• Very easy maintenance
  
• Very good build quality
  
• Compatible with concentrates
  
  Con:
  
• Spare batteries are proprietary and require proprietary charger
  
• Connection to water pipe requires after-market mods
  
• Cannot be used while charging
  
  DISCLAIMER: I own an IQ, but not a FF2. My description of the IQ is based on personal experience over the past six months or so, but FF2 is based on my reading about it as I've researched purchasing an on-demand convection vape. About ready to pull the trigger on FF2, but still considering Firewood 4; capsules are putting me off a bit on it.
  

Currently using the GPW and G305 (use them pretty much equal, if I'm having a bad game I'll switch). My S2 arrived Tuesday, and it's on it's way back today lmao. Shape isn't bad it's too small for me (19.5cm x 10.5xm hands). That said despite the shape, it really did suck going back to a wired mouse haha. I don't have a bungee and I forget how annoying it was to constantly have to rewrap my wire around my desk and tug on it in case it fell off the back of the table.

Additionally, even though I did like the shape of S2, the glossy coating is retarded. My hands would feel disgusting like I just came in my hand and ate a bag of potato chips. Then without even washing my hand I would place it on my gpw and instantly feel clean. You can see it too, my S2 looks far grosser after 2 days than my g102 did after 2 years. I also felt really silly paying $70 for a mouse that from a technical standpoint is inferior to my $50 g305 in every singe way. Even my $27 g102 feels higher quality than the s2 in terms of buttons, wheel and material. Don't worry about sensor, 3360/hero is overkill and I never noticed anything going from Mercury to Hero.

On top of that instead of using amazon prime and having 2 days turnarounds tops it takes 8 days to recieve from Zowie direct. First impression of Zowie, the shapes ARE GOOD, but not really not that special and in no way make up for their mediocre quality and being overpriced. Like yeah, despite being too small for me I did like the shape of the s2, but I didn't like it any better than my g305 or gpw, it was just different.

When I got my $130 g pro wireless I didn't feel like I got ripped off at all. When I felt how sturdy yet light it was, and saw how long the rechargeable battery lasted, I knew I had paid a high price for a high quality product. I have the complete opposite feeling with Zowie.

So in conclusion get the GPW. Better yet, if you're already using the g203, get a g305 for less than half the price. Get these battery shellshttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

with these lithium ion batteries

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the mouse will weight EXACTLY THE SAME as the g102.

I know using nonrechargeable can be lame, but I've been using the g203 for a month now and the battery still shows full bars.

Like I said I use gpw and g305, and I honestly feel like I play better with the g305, I'm just so used to the shape after going from a g100s, to a g203 to this over the past 4 years. Despite the shape I still use the GPW too because it's hard NOT to aim well with a large wireless 80g mouse.

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Ahh, lighting control. Amazing results, pain in the ass to get there...

As the others have said, DMX can help you control your lights. Simple DMX controls and programs are fairly simple to do using a controller, like an obey10. Wash lighting, simple programs for slow songs, etc., these are all awesome to do, and give the night that much more appeal. But, there's more work to be done. Addressing your lights, wiring up the DMX (or spending more on wireless dmx) creating programs, etc.

If you want some control but this seems daunting, get something like this to control lighting on/off (http://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) as a start. Great for cheap lasers, moonflowers, etc.

Obey10 is a good starter controller if you have more than par cans to wire up. If all you have are pars, then an obey 4 is suffcient.

If you really wanna go all out, get an OpenDMX USB controller, and download QLC+, which is open source. This is controller is a couple hundred, but allows you to do full programming in QLC+. This is the most complex you'll wanna go for a mobile rig, I would think. With this, you can create programs, then control them from a lighting laptop, or even setup TouchOSC and control it remotely with your phone... all sorts of cool, but time-consuming things.

You can get as complicated as you'd like when it comes to lighting... If your clients like what you're doing, keep doing it. If you want to step it up in looks, but keep it simple, do your parcans with a simple Obey4 and control them only, then put the rest on sound active with a simple power-switcher...

My 2 cents. Fully-programmed lights make it awesome, but you'll suffer at setup time...

They don't come in the 3.5" size, so you need to buy an adapter if you want to install them in the Mac Pro tower. I bought the Icy Dock adapter, and it worked perfectly.

The performance change is absolutely greater than anything else you can do. Boot times are on the order of 5-10 seconds—under 30s to logged in and ready. Software upgrades, compiling, opening and closing big files are practically instantaneous. Adobe PhotoShop CS 5.5 starts in 3-4 seconds. An SSD can often outperform the SATA interface, while a HDD can't even saturate it when used optimally.

You need to install Trim Enabler, which is (legally) free for what matters. Don't listen to others who say the drive(s) have "garbage collection"—it's not the same thing, and only enabling TRIM will guarantee preserving the long-term performance of the SSD. Once you install TE, go into settings and enable "Check for Trim support on boot". This ensures TRIM doesn't get disabled during system updates!

As far as models, if you plan on being a heavy data user, I still recommend the Samsung 840 Pro (must be Pro), the technology is better for power users. On the other hand, I installed a Crucial MX100 model in two laptops recently. They perform great, and are significantly cheaper. I haven't had them as long as the 840.

The process I used for the Mac Pro was to install the OS clean, then point it at my older install. Honestly, I wouldn't do that again. It was slow and more error-prone.

Instead, for the laptops, I used CarbonCopyCloner, and simply clone the OS to a freshly formatted SSD (note: format as Mac Extended (Journaled)). It took a lot less time, and didn't seem to have any negative side effects. Note: the first time you reboot, the OS needs to rebuild all the caches, and Spotlight needs to reindex everything, so it's a bit slower than you'd expect. Let it run for a while or overnight, then you'll see the true performance.

Finally, since I have room for many drives, I keep a spare drive in the computer just for the daily temporary stuff. I actually symlinked my Downloads folder to the spare drive, and I moved all my virtual machines there as well. This reduces wear-and-tear on the SSD, since those are usually temporary files that are used once and then deleted, or big files that I don't really care about. I keep my music and videos there, as well.

Hey so I hate to shit in on everyone else's opinions, but they're not really recommending the best gear for your dollar. /r/audiophile has a sticky on this exact subject. Basically the lowest end system they are willing to recommend is a pair of Micca MB42s . If you can spring for the 42x's, they are more than worth the 10 extra dollars. You will need an amplifier to drive them. /r/audiophile reccomends the Muse m50, but I can tell you from personal experience, a lepai 2020a+ with a slightly beefier power supply will run them just fine for half the price. These are pretty chunky speakers, but they'll blow any "pc/gaming" speakers out of the water. If you decide you'd like to go for this, I have about 30 feet of speaker wire lying around that I'd be happy to mail to you to save you the 8 bucks or so. Hope this helps, and happy listening!

> If I DO get the battery, wouldn't I have to let it drain..use the energy in it prior to using solar to fill it up again?

To this question, no to draining. Consider it like a car battery in a car, where it is set for a life of re-maintaining charge off of the alternator/reg. Your 'solar' battery is made for it.

Now, since you bought the 'briefcase' already, I'm not going to reccomend something else, but could if you want.
The reviews don't seem great, understandably. 13 Watt just simply isn't that much, and the convenience isn't worth it, tho the price isn't too bad, comparably. You still have something cool, so not looking to get you down because you shouldn't be. But there are better options, getting cheaper every year. Depending on your usage requirements, you will be the one to find out if it works for you or not.

Sounds like you might have decent setup for someone is simply doing those first things you mentioned. You would want to upgrade if we're talking about the fridge or a vacuum (exceptions being 12v/off-grid styles for these.)

There could be some concerns running the 500 W Inverter off this regulator. I'm pretty sure I used a 300 W inv. off of this same controller box. One night, in a tent with my laptop connected, running audio interface via firewire, the damn thing exploded. I've since discovered it was one of the 12 V regulator (3 pin transistor) chips in it - which makes it an easy fix if you have the component and can solder.

My final point that I will make for you is to look for solutions that come straight off the 12 V Load source from the controller. In other words, bypass the inverter - it sucks too much juice inefficiently for smaller-duty uses such as charging phones. If it's possible to rig up a 12 V laptop cable that you can connect to your source, your system will be completely quiet and maybe 2X as efficient or more! Buy things like this for charging your phone/USB devices, just make sure you diode-protect it or don't switch pos and negative accidentally (I've roasted 2 of them, doing it differently now) Anyway, that's
https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466295975&sr=8-5&keywords=12+v+dc+to+5v+dc+converter

Good for you, hope this helps!

I'm gonna add some thoughts here. I'm also gonna quote from some of your other comments and add it to this thread.

>I need to get an international phone plan

First make sure your phone is unlocked. If you bought it straight from Apple/Samsung/LG/etc it will be. If it's locked to your carrier call and have them unlock it. Then when you get to Italy buy a SIM card from a local company (Like Vodaphone). There is almost always kiosks in the airport for this sort of thing. Here's some more information on it. (http://prepaid-data-sim-card.wikia.com/wiki/Italy). You'll have a local phone number, and access to however much data you purchased for your time there. Once home just slap your old SIM card in and carry on!

>a proper charger for my phone

Here you go. This one served me well on 3 continents so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ

>call my credit card companies and let them know I will be in a different country so my card doesn't get shut down

Maybe? I'd suggest getting yourself one of these.
http://www.cashpassport.com/1/global-landing-page/

Pre-load it with your euro's and avoid having to pay transaction fees on your current credit card. It's accepted anywhere Mastercard is (so almost everywhere) and it's insured with 24/7 global assistance.

>I wont be paying for transportation except for if we go out to a bar and the driver wants to drink.

UBER works worldwide, even with your American credit card on file.

Oh and check to see if your Credit Card offers any kind of lounge access. A lot of pseudo-premium cards offer 2-4 free lounge visits a year. A little quiet with some free food and booze is a godsend during a layover!

If possible, you should try to run your S9s on 240V. You should be able to run all 4 S9s on one 30A 240V circuit. Connect them to the circuit via a PDU like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A

Ambient intake air temps can safely be up to around 100F. I like to keep them below 95F.

I also like to keep Chip temps below 85C, preferably below 78C.

The most important part of Antminer ventilation design is air replacement (not AC). You need to have about the same amount of fresh air (filtered preferably) going into the front of your miners as is being exhausted out. A good ballpark rule of thumb is 200CFM per Antminer in AND out. You will need intake fans AND exhaust fans.

You can read-up on the factory specs and recommended ambient/PCB/chip temps in the various Antminer user guides available at https://service.bitmain.com/support/download .

Power-cycling your Antminers will not hurt them. If you have an older Bitmain firmware version that allows SSH access, you will preferably want to SSH (Putty) into them (IP address) first and do the following prior to pulling the plug.

(Default SSH login name is: "root" and password is: "admin" (both no quotes).)

type "poweroff" (no quotes), and press Enter.

Close the SSH session.

Wait 5 minutes while the miner cools down, and then physically unplug the power supply to your S9.

To restart, simply plug the power supply back in and let your miner boot up. Takes about 5 minutes before it's mining again.

If you don't have SSH access, don't sweat it, just reboot the miner, and unplug the network cable. Usually by the time it has rebooted and completed the fan test, it has cooled down enough to unplug.

If you don't want to use either of the above methods, just pull/disconnect the power. It's not ideal, but it will do the job.

I prefer to use Slushpool. Helpful instructions here:

https://slushpool.com/help/mining-introduction/?c=btc

Feel free to check out my ASIC setup for more tips at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFtqDvpWNSKQs40u2mUiTJg

Good luck!!

I used to be a G502 palm user at 18.5x9 but took a chance on the small ambidextrous g305 and while at first use it felt a bit odd this mouse has just been fucking incredible for me. I can't get away from it, I have tried to use other ergonomic mice and just cant, they never feel as natural to me. I did switch my grip up to a more claw shape and that made it just as comfortable as ergo.

I also have had it for about 3 months now and it is still at 100% charge...I mean what black magic fuckery did Logitech use on this mouse?

I have since recommended it to friends and they love its shape and weight. If you do go for the g305 I suggest picking up these two items from amazon: AAA converter - Energizer Ultimate Lithium AAA Batteries.

This will save on weight and it doesn't seem to hurt the battery life at all.

For 250 my recommendation would be a pair of Philharmonic Affordable Accuracy Monitors paired with a suitable amplifier. They're easily the best speakers I've used. Great imaging, very clear and detailed, and amazing bass for a 2.0 setup.

I got along with a basic Lepai amplifier with an upgraded power supply which did better than I expected to. Otherwise you could probably get away with an SMSL-SA36 if you're not blasting them.

For the money though, I bet you could find a used receiver for a great deal off your local craigslist.

I currently run them with an SMSL SA-160 which does an amazing job of driving them but would push you out of your budget.

Alternatively, I've also used the Micca MB42Xs paired with the same Lepai as above and it's a fantastic budget-oriented setup which doesn't take up too much space.

The model should have the voltage it's designed for one it, I believe.
Many were sold for american markets.
I'm not sure how picky the srd-6 is, if it was designed for certain voltages, or a range.
I don't have mine on me to check if it's labelled.
I do remember people on head-fi saying they plug it in to american outlets just fine, but it might shorten it's life if it's not meant for it.
You're best bet is to search the 1000 page stax thread on head-fi.
Diffidently not European.
I use this converter

Also, I take it you won that auction that just went for 111?
Congratulations.

Oh, i got the mb42, great speakers, saw they are now 60 bucks, but were 50 bucks a few months ago, so either they've gone up or typical amazon price fluctuating. Not sure it's worth getting the x version, the regular ones sound great at that size and price point - they have a crossover but not sure it's going to make huge difference in that package.

I got this amp: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049P6OTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
lp2020A+

I needed a power supply for an external drive and that one worked so I stepped up to this for the amp to squeeze out most of the watts in the amp: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I got it they were: 50 speakers, 20 amp, 6.50 power supply and it makes a very nice budget system - loud enough for a normal sized room and good quality.

I charged like that for a long time, pretty much until the shield came off. The same thing happened to my brother-in-law's Revenger X around the same time. I still charge using that port in a pinch so I'm not saying never do it.

Here's what convinced me though:

1. You're not reversing the charge through the board which is just easier on it in the long run
   
2. I can now check the battery condition between each swap. Before, I never checked the batteries due to laziness and "out of site out of mind"
   
3. Instant full charge!! I didn't realize how much I would LOVE this! Now I don't have to leave it while it's charging...just swap the batteries and BAM...full charge.
   
   I got the 2 extra batteries for $20 and I got the external charger for $20. Plus I can use the external charger as a power bank for my phone as an added bonus.
   
   I'll try to get links for the charger and batteries added here.
   
   Xtar PB2 (crap, it's like $5 cheaper now lol)
   
   Speedy 18650 Battery Charger XTAR PB2 w/Power Bank Function, Portable Li-ion 18650 Battery Charger Box w/USB Port and LED Digital Display（Batteries NOT Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D48V1Y7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w8.RCbVZPS8F4
   
   Batteries
   
   https://www.vpnjuice.com/product-page/lithicore-batteries
   
   Edit: added links

One 240/30A should be adequate :) That gives you 7,200 watts and even at 80% load that's 5,760 watt max so you're pretty close to that number. Go with two x2 240/30A for now; you may just need the one extra down the road if you expand or have a tool or something that can take advantage of the 240's. Might as well get it done while the electrician is in there.

We upgraded ours completely as our 100 amp panel to be upgraded so had my friend (master electrician) install new 200 amp panel (waiting for 200A drop by the electric company). 40-slot panel including whole house surge protector (fits inside two slots).

I took the possible maximum power each card can draw just to have some breathing room and ended up with x2 240/30A breaker running on L6-30 plugs with Tripp-Lite PDU's (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A) I split the power between the two lines even though I can probably run all my 40 1080 Ti's on one but wanted to spread the load a bit.

240's are nice since there's a slight increase in efficiency but also you're able to run server PSU's like HP's with breakout board which ends up being cheaper than buying couple 1200W PSU's.

the MB42x - Lepai 2020A+ combo is a good cheap solution. I recommend that you upgrade the power supply on the Lepai though.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z6ZR5O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

This one works great. I use it on my 2020+ and the sound is definitely improved in the low end.

Also, the 2020+ has and RCA input which should work with most TVs. This would give you considerably better sound than any "in box" 2.1 setups.

In terms of a subwoofer, the Miccas already go pretty low so you might not need a sub at first depending on preference. Also, avoid the aux input on the Lepai... it's a little shoddy.

After considering our discussion on this I can tell you for sure what I would do if I were in your situation. Since you already have a solar system in place and not starting from scratch you will need a DC-DC switching power supply to replace the AC inverter. I still have never seen one for sale that is suitable for mining so I would build my own to run a single ant s9 based on the design I have tested extensively running 2 ant s5. The design to run 2 s5 is pulling about 700 watts so we need to scale that up to do about 1400 watts. To get right to it these are the parts you'll need, I'll explain in a bit how it will need to be put together and how I came to this design in the first place. After I get all that out I will try to answer some of the other questions folks have about a fully stand alone system. For your needs you will only need the DC power supply/switch/regulator.

2 of these (note it's a 5 pack so you'll be getting 10 relays total. 8 will be used) about $28
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169603&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+relay&psc=1

1 of these about $70
https://www.amazon.com/Tracer-Tracer1210RN-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1468170133&sr=8-5&keywords=mppt+charge+controller

10 of these about $200
https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Step-Down/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468169653&sr=8-11&keywords=12v+voltage+regulator

Those three items are an mppt charge controller that will be used to control the relays. The 12v relays which will allow you to safely control the power switching and voltage regulators to make sure the power stays clean so as not to damage your gear.

Here's how it goes together, note that all regulators and relays will be hooked in parallel to allow us to get to the desired total amperage;

• DC 12 volt power bus (battery main) gets hooked to the charge controller, powering it up in the 12v range.
  
• Negative bus lead connects to the regulator negative.
  -Positive bus lead connects to relay pass in
  
• Relay pass out 12v positive lead connects to regulator positive.
  
• Relay 'activate power' leads get connected to 'lamp controller' on charge controller.
  
• Regulator positive and negative out connect to miner power cables (pci-e)
  
  Once this is connected as such pressing the orange button on the charge controller front panel will activate the relays allowing power to flow to the regulators which will then even it out and pass it to a secondary bus which will then have the miner power cables hooked to it and power the miners.
  
  By using the lamp controller feature of the charge controller you get low voltage protection. If the batteries get low (even though sounds like you won't have much of a problem with that) the lamp controller will power down the relays and therefore stop the miners. It will automatically reconnect when the battery charge comes back up to safe level.
  
  The idea is to have all this in a box with cooling fans (12v dc case fans) and size it to power a single miner. This box of parts gives you about a 15% efficiency boost over using a big inverter. The cost of an inverter to do this is about $2000, my solution costs about $300, thus dramatically reducing total system costs and allowing a modular approach that will scale while limiting down time due to equipment failure.

I'm Just north of you where the other tornados hit, and I ironically have the same issue with my SO. One thing I've found that helps, that helped her see was taking a weekend camping trip to a few state parks.

• Its cheap,
  
• scenic,
  
• night skys can be beautiful
  
• campfires
  
• many sites available depending on time, place, and how you book.
  
• some have power, = great for the noobs / keep the wife from killin ya.
  
• you can get your more ruffing it / prepping stuff out that she'll miss and want, then you just suggest she has a bag too. (then she bites you head off as she takes it from you)
  
• you'll quickly learn how fun it is if you dont have things to prepare food or clean water.
  
• learn how to pack and bring good food for 2-4 days, ice can disappear quickly and food can suck if not done right.
  
• "I'm so cold, how can I get warm!?" (happened before better sleeping bags / covers)
  
• "this 2 person tent is for 1 child!"...yea seriously wth (before 6 per tent)
  
• "This bed sucks, how can i even sleep well on this?" (happened before the air mattress)
  
• "I wish I had ear plugs, cant sleep in this different place"
  
• My SO can't stand fishing :( but that can be an experience for anyone. (bonus if you filet and cook it)
  
• depending on what your doing you'll quickly find out if your footwear is adequate.
  
• My socks are wet :/ ahhh! mud!
  
• "I really suck at hiking" (out of shape AF...big prep is your body) some tails will quickly make you realize your health.
  
• "is that poison ivy? How do it identify this?"
  
• " I can't see anything in this darkness!" (she stole my freakin flashlight!)
  
• "cell service sucks, and my battery is dying!" ..like half of Ohio on Monday night....(stole my 18650 charger!)
  
• Yeah...Camping...so many weird things happen that you have to Prep for.
  
  We kind of went overboard on the tent and bed, and kind of glad we did, its not too small and not too big to just throw in the car and run, its a 6 person with a 12v blow up queen, enough room for the bed, dog, and gear in the tent. Don't skimp on the weather / water tightness of it, and buy a footprint tarp to go down first to not get holes in the floor, there have been times we had to weather terrible rain and cold. That's the other thing, nights often get cold, keep that in mind.
  
  The more major stuff in prepping for me have been digital books / info / data on how to fix things, tools, machines, and fuel, that get used in some way in a bad situation or good (aka not just used in emergency)
  
  18650 flashlights are super useful for EDC and prep, https://www.gearbest.com/led-flashlights/pp_391921.html?wid=1433363+ can be used as a EDC hand warmer, (+gf points in winter) and the 18650s can be charged and used for charging phones and such with something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D48V1Y7/?coliid=I2DQROVJXP5RJX&colid=UU7OS3H310T1&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it great for keeping things charged in a power out situation.
  
  ​
  
  TLDR: Tent / Car camping, You'll learn fast and it can be fun!

Purchase guide? You mean like a list of stuff you need?

You need the bare board, like this, not saying buy this one because the price is a bit high, but just the board like this will suffice. I don't see any reason to get the B+ that just came out, but if it's the same price as a B go ahead. Microcenter has Pi3 B on sale right now for $30. Arrow Electronic often has them for $25-$30 and free overnight shipping on orders over $25.


You need a power supply. A lot of people use phone chargers and that works, but they may not give you a real 2.5a which can lead to more heat and throttling under load. Not sure if that's a problem with Octoprint - I think the bottleneck that limits Octopring performance is elsewhere. I have used this brand of dedicated power supply on several Pi builds and never had a problem. 3a in higher than most chargers. But I normally get a version without the in-line power switch - which seems to be gone from Amazon.

And you need a MicroSD card. Class 10 is preferred, but by no means necessary. And the size of SD card you get will be the size of the library of files you can store on the Raspberry Pi. However, the interface for navigating through a large cache of files through the OctoPrint interface isn't so good, so therefor the size of the card you need may really only be 8GB or less as you'll probably delete files off the card once you print them. 8GB is a crap load of GCode files and scrolling down a list of 10 files is annoying, much less 1GB worth, much much less 6+ GB (on an 8GB card).

And you'll want a case, but you might just want to print one rather than buy one. Cases are really a preference thing. For buyable cases I love C4 Labs acrylic cases.

You might want some heat sinks. Every Pi case I've ever bought (like 7 at this point) came with heat sinks. Here's some over priced copper ones. But I have been running my Octopi for three weeks solid, printing 8-12 hours per day, and I don't have any heat sinks on it. I don't think Octoprint really needs heatsinks, but many people will tell you to get them anyway because cheap insurance and all that. The $16 Flirc case acts as a heatsink itself.

Just because streamers use something, doesn't mean it will be good for you. I'm sure it's a good mouse, but you might not like it.

However, if you are interested in that kind, the G305 is better if you use a chargable lithium battery like this and any AAA to AA adapter, or an aluminum foil ball. Instead of just a regular AA battery. It's the same thing but wireless, and Logitech wireless performs the same as wired, so you don't have to worry about disconnect or latency.

your local B&M "should" have them. i have used lots and Nitecore are by far the best out there and there a good price for peace of mind. Happy vaping!


https://www.amazon.com/version-Nitecore-Intellicharge-Universal-Battery/dp/B01HOP6ADE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483631366&sr=8-7&keywords=nitecore+charger

This mouse is amazing. I upgraded from the G203 to the G305 (same shape, but the G305 is wireless) and it is amazing. I would recommend getting some AA to AAA battery covers to reduce weight, it does help a lot. Or you can just use foil. The only thing this mouse lacks is RGB, but RGB on a mouse isn't too important to me

Link to AA to AAA: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, the Xbox One power supply is rated for 100-120V or 220-240V so you can't just plug it straight into the wall. Also, since it draws quite a bit of power, you can't just use any "travel power converters" either, because you will blow a fuse. Notice, I said CONVERTER and not adapter.

So in short you have two options:

a) buy a power converter (also known as a transformer) that is adequate. I use this one, but I go in reverse i.e. US Xbox One in a European country:

http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource%C2%AE-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-ST500/dp/B0022QOSDK/

b) Just buy a US power supply for the Xbox One. It can be ordered through Xbox support (also on the website I believe) and you can also try GameStop!

I recommend to buy a US power supply instead of the converter as it is loud, bulky and heavy. I only got it, because at the time in parts of Europe where I was, the Xbox One hadn't released, which means no power supply available.

Also of note, is in my excitement I completely forgot about the voltage difference and plug it into the wall. Needless to say, the whole house tripped a fuse, and the room smelled funky. The power supply had to be replaced, and Amazon was nice enough to exchange it free of charge, but I had to wait an excruciating month!

Neither, I use ICY DOCK and like devices, you can get Icy Dock for single SSD/HDD to multiple drives. I use it to change my boot drive to transferring data from my PC to laptop and so on. So the 2.5" part is to insert a boot SSD (Window or a Linux distribution OS) and the 3.5" I use to transfer data or back it up to a 6T HDD.

For my desktop I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00834SJ8K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-5-25in-Trayless-Mobile-3-5in/dp/B000KS8S9W/ref=pd_sbs_147_1/145-7509564-3873745?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000KS8S9W&pd_rd_r=eef1512f-6959-4fde-9177-ce62c8768090&pd_rd_w=RY63p&pd_rd_wg=xKSNf&pf_rd_p=5873ae95-9063-4a23-9b7e-eafa738c2269&pf_rd_r=AQ0G50CK9G4ZQWMVKEFQ&psc=1&refRID=AQ0G50CK9G4ZQWMVKEFQ that needs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 if I want to use a 2.5" drive to transfer info.

For my laptop https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HY1QLJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so I don't have a DVD any more but any hot swap SSD port now. :-) Or press my keys to select a boot device and boot another OS.

Icy Dock does offer this same technology https://www.icydock.com/goods.php?id=245, just an idea, a flexible idea to me. Win on one NVMe SSD, a Linux distro on an other NVMe SSD, and have as many as you want this way, I do.

I second this. I swapped everything over to 240 last night and everything seems much more stable. Definitely affordable, especially if you already have an unused 20/30A 240V in a garage or something and definitely worth doing. Tripplite 30A PDU ~$160 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), C14 to PSU cables ($5 each or less if used) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067RRX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), and presto. You're good to go. It was literally plug and play with all of my PSUs (EVGA, Corsair, Rosewill, etc.). Everything is on one 30A 240V outlet instead of spread across multiple 110 outlets.

I just got this one from amazon. Free shipping, thank goodness, since it weighs 75 pounds. 125 amp/hrs, AGM sealed battery, needs no venting or battery box. I just strapped mine o the floor, under the bed. Requires a good charge controller. Should last 10 years or so with no care what so ever. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACNO2AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe $350 ish? Basically just this guy or 2 and some wires https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

be careful to wire everything properly safely, ground, and add fuses for safety. Too many safety measures is the perfect amount.

Thanks man, it came out a lot nicer than expected.
I had some LED par cans laying around that I used to use for parties, just put them in the corner behind the desk. One facing straight up to the ceiling, the other two uplighting the wall opposite them. The two shining on the walls are set to the same speed while the 3rd which is on the ceiling is slightly slower and unsynced so I can have a bit of a cool dynamic. Plus I have them all plugged into a rackmount power strip (http://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) so I can switch individual ones on and off whenever.

The suggestions here are great and OP has probably picked one, but I wanted to share an alternative for anyone else that may be looking. I really enjoy my $15 Xtar PB2 paired with two 2500mah 18650 batteries. You can get the batteries for just under $4 each. This way you get lots of capacity and you can swap out batteries and it still costs less than the typical powerbank of that capacity. Also some devices use the batteries directly like this flashlight.

What you are up against is economy of scale - there is no market for an inverter like that, so there are no low cost (mass produced) ones out there.

You may have better luck getting a 24 to 12V step down and then using a 12V Inverter - I know this is clunky, but step down efficiency is usually pretty good.

Switch out the lenses if you suspect they might be dirty.

Alternatively, take them out and clean them in warm water and soap. I fielded dirty goggles for a while and it was a night and day difference to see through them while clean! :)

Cut the foam out of the vents, too, and try running without a helmet on. Keep your balaclava off your nose if you wear one.

You can also get away with cutting out some rubber from the vents themselves to increase airflow. Be careful with how you do it, though, and be mindful that BBs can enter your goggles at this point.

If none of this works, I recommend some home-rigged fans. [Here's a 30mm (1 inch) 12V micro fan.] (https://www.amazon.com/Gdstime-30mm-Small-Brushless-Cooling/dp/B00MYNX0ZI) You can get a battery pack with switch that has an output of 12V. [Here's a 8x AA battery pack with a nominal output of 12V; even has an on/off switch built in.] (https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS)

AA batteries typically output 1.5V a piece, so 8 of them in a case provides 12V. The small fan should draw no more than 1A. 8x AA batteries should supply at least 400 mAh a piece, so you'll have a total current of at least 3.2A coming from your load. You could safely power 3 fans, and given how efficiently they run, you could probably do so for quite a while. I'd recommend 2 fans wired in parallel with the battery pack, though you may only need 1 fan to do the job.

If you don't know anything about electricity, I could post a common-sense wiring diagram if needed.

Agreed. I just got a cheap DJ one for my home setup, but it's great having a switch for each device instead of reaching around my desk to turn off the speakers every day. After buying that one I saw another that also has a USB charging port on it, wish I'd gotten that one.

If you are able to make a really nice battery end of the PA, then you can easily and cheaply buy what's known as "Buck Converter" on Amazon or similar. What you would need is a wall power brick that can deliver 2 watts of power or so (the MF PA is rated at 2 watts) and will change your wall AC voltage (at 120V or 220V depending on where you live) to 12V DC. From there you will connect the 12V DC to your buck converter and adjust the converter to output 1.2V or a little more (for hotter temp). The buck converter has to be able to handle 2 watts of power, but those are readily available on Amazon for around $6. Wall brick is another $6 - $10 unless you have one collecting dust somewhere. That's pretty much it. High power buck converter is the magic component and that is exactly what's in the MF PA. here is a link to one on amazon (hope it's okay to post a link. I am not benefiting in any way from it). https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Converter-1-2-36V/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=pd_sbs_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C4QVTNU&pd_rd_r=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE&pd_rd_w=1kwf3&pd_rd_wg=ADaPx&psc=1&refRID=YH7A9XJTZCYR8TMBH7QE

For my project I used the LM2596 at first too. But the load i used (2A at 5V) heated up the converter way too high for my taste. So I bought a pretty overpowered but higher quality and more efficient step-down module. I'm very happy with it, because it doesn't get warm at all.

1. buy a different solenoid. There are variable voltage ones out there like 3-12v but you will most likely run into the wiimote not supplying enough current to push both the solenoid and rumble motor.
   
   
2. (best option) Use a relay to trigger the 12v off of the 5v rumble if the wii mote rumble is a full 5v pulse/pwm (probably is). Then, use any number of rechargeable 12v battery, 8 1.5v AA eneloop rechargeable batteries, or 3x 14500 lithium ion batteries (11.1v total but would usually be 12v and same size as AA batteries) for the solenoid.
   
   Items:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Tolako-Arduino-Indicator-Channel-Official/dp/B00VRUAHLE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213485&sr=8-3&keywords=5v+relay
   
   If you need to save on some space, go with a Solid State Relay like this:
   https://www.amazon.com/G3MB-202P-DC-AC-Solid-State-Module/dp/B01JCPPBI4/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213949&sr=1-3&keywords=5v+solid+state+relay
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522213257&sr=8-8&keywords=small+12v+battery
   
   or
   
   Get this and a 3x AA battery holder for your 11.1 volts
   https://www.amazon.com/WAY%C2%AECharger-2000mAh-Rechargeable-Batteries-Flashlight/dp/B00PIDNTRA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213739&sr=1-3&keywords=Lithium-ion+AA
   
   and
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Gfortune-Cable-Plastic-Batteries-Holder/dp/B06XW8QC6N/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522213842&sr=1-3&keywords=3+cell+aa+battery+holder

I just helped a friend of mine build his own, it's very easy to put together yourself. Here's our component list, that you may find helpful.

Raspberry Pi 3B

Flirc Raspberry Pi Case Gen2

8Bitdo Sn30 Bluetooth Gamepad

SanDisk 32GB Micro SD

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable

NorthPada RPi3 Power Supply

Of course, there are many different cases and controllers you can use, you don't need to buy these specifically but it'll give you a good idea what you need to get started and what it will cost you when all is said and done. This is also assuming you just want something to play on TV. If you are a building a handheld, that's a different beast.

You don't want to buy the socket for that plug, you want to cut that plug off. You will not find anything off the shelf that this

To create 12 Volts, you need 8 AA batteries in series (one behind the other). This light draws 0.5a, and a AA battery has around 2-3Ah of charge, so 8 batteries should drive this for about 4-6 hours.

This is 8 battery pack

You cut off the car adapter, and connect together red wires and black wires. Must be insulated from each other (simple clear tape would do). Or just bring the parts to the playa, and I'm sure there are 1000's of folks who can help you wire it. Great way to meet new friends!

I'd say you should be more concerned about the Power Adapter, don;t want to break your system by feeding it too much power.

For a video signal, you can just use a normal NES RF Switch and set your TV to channel 95 or 96. This is a problem on modern TVs, as most don't go up that far, but older TVs should have that channel.

If you're looking for an adapter for power, I'd recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4

The cheaper ones should work on game systems, and it is a good idea to only give the system the power it was made for. If you plug it right into a US outlet, there shouldn't be too much, but the voltage is 10-20 volts higher here than it is in Japan, so I'd highly recommend getting a power converter. You don't want to accidentally burn up your game system.

OK that sounds like a plan, so like one of these little guys:

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519216216&sr=8-5&keywords=buck+converter

adjust it with a screwdriver and a meter to dial it in and solder my wires in place and I should be good, thanks!

I bought a 12v to 5v step down converter. I can't find the exact one I bought in my amazon history for some reason, but it is similar to this : https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2. I then bought a 12v 10amp 2 pole rocker switch that lit up when powered on from Auto zone and hooked it in between my fusebox and the converter. Then I just turned it on to power the Pi up and then shut down the Pi correctly before powering it off.

I have seen a few tutorials on adding a small battery and creating some sort of auto shutdown script on the PI once the main power is off, if you want something automatic, but didn't look too much into it. I may revisit it once I get everything installed again, hopefully by this weekend. Have my DD components and coaxials coming in this week and I'll be ready to rock and roll!

I had actually come up with a decent list of stuff needed to do a tablet install in a car using a Windows tablet and a S/PDIF connection to a DSP but I never got around to it due to the cost. Here's what I came up with (I know you're UK based but this stuff should be able to be found across the pond):

• USB OTG charging hub - you're going to have to try a few models of this out to find one that works reliably. USB OTG charging is notoriously difficult to get working in a stable way
  
• USB DC-DC 3 amp power convertor for powering all the stuff
  
• USB Bluetooth Adapter - This part is tricky because Windows will connect to bluetooth stuff but doesn't natively HOST bluetooth stuff. This adapter with the included software will fix that and it works but its a tad clunky
  
• Joycon EXR steering wheel interface This guy has a lot of uses, including backup camera control, steering wheel control, and other voltage relay monitors
  
• FM Tuner
  
• USB GPS adapter
  
• USB GPS driver for integrated maps control - GPSDirect
  
• USB to S/PDIF adapter or if you don't plan on using a DSP then a decent USB to RCA DAC
  
  Good luck!
  
  EDIT: as far as software goes Kodi would probably be one of the better choices for software to run on Windows for this purpose.
  

Tube amps have different terminology than I'm used to (filament what now), but it looks like it needs 12V 2A minimum to be safe. You could use anything from a wall-wart like THIS to a custom built DIY amplifier power supply.

Create a business.

Get commercial electric rates by googling “commercial electricity near me” and choosing an energy provider that offers commercial electric in your area. (You can get commercial electric in your home if it is also your business address).

Install 30-amp 240 volt circuit breakers with one corresponding outlet for each breaker. Buy one 30-amp PDU to plug into your 240 volt outlet. Make sure you install the correct outlets for the plug on the PDU that you choose.

Do not waste money on air conditioning. Install ducted ceiling exhaust fans. Exhaust through the roof and out of the house (not into the attic), or into an active plenum of a commercial space.

Feel free to message me for help with setting up your operation.

Get the cheapest plug adapter you can find, and several of them, because you'll probably leave one in a hotel room. You can get the simple blocky ones for 8 bucks or less on Amazon, and if you had to pick one up at an airport you'd pay like $20.

And now, to contradict my own advice, I also like the USB chargers which take multiple plugs. If you travel with multiple USB-charged devices like my family does, they are very useful. There are many on Amazon, here's two at random:

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-YXwin-4-Ports-International-Adapter/dp/B072FV67ZS/ref=sr_1_7

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-MoMoCity-International-Worldwide-Smartphone/dp/B01M1GUJHV/ref=sr_1_10

EDIT: Looks like you can get the simple blocky ones with USB now. It might just make sense to pick up a few of these instead:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504473249&sr=8-3&keywords=international+plug+adapter

The plan is to have the whole setup being run from one or two 12v dry cells, the kind that are used in UPS back-up systems.


I can pretty easily get power to the relay boards from a separate 5v source like this and I'll just get a 2nd one for pi itself.

Thanks for your input!

Naturally i have thought about markets for this as well. The thing is, these supplies are mainly used for Rolleiflex Lenscontrol S camera control systems which are only used on View Cameras (Professional Cameras) in commercial studios. I think the market is rather limited, but why not try?!


Ill get you the board details tonight when i get access.


Could i use a Constant Current 10V board and feed it with a DC/DC converter to keep the input supply? Potentially even a LED Constant Current Driver? Would that be a viable option?

https://www.amazon.de/Einstellbar-Converter-Step-Down-Modul-Stück/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523431336&sr=8-3&keywords=dc%2Fdc+converter

this one + a Constant Current board for example?

Thanks again for your amazing efforts, you already helped tremendously.



EDIT: I just opened another of those, to my suprise its completely different... I attach some pics.

https://imgur.com/a/zLjFn

Searched for the MOSFET's etc. Link List:

• https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/AVX/BZ02CA903ZLB?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDCPMZUZ%252bYl8KRGGE777VRvZBcGAWBuwA%3d
  
  
• https://www.mouser.de/productdetail/texas-instruments/tl780-12kcs?qs=DXdcjUGny5MQtqZC%2F8uCmQ%3D%3D
  
  
• https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor-Fairchild/SS34?qs=2ONuHmP%2fXzb3ub11UdFfdQ==
  
  And another i believe says "M9RB L46A", cant find that tho.
  
  With my limited knowledge it appears to me that its exactly doing what you said.
  
  I guess that just adds more info (?)

Awesome response, thank you!! Follow up question: Lets say I used this guy http://www.amazon.com/Amamax%C2%AE-Wall-Adapter-Power-Supply/dp/B00KZ2ZQE8

Could I simply strip off the barrel jack (which would leave me a power and a ground wire), then branch two wires off of the power wire to power the arduino and both steppers?

I need to make it work off of one dc converter from my wall outlet. Perhaps a better way to do it would be a barrel jack splitter, if that exists?

Alright. I am so sorry that I'm being annoying..

how do these

SONY SS-B1000

compare to these

Dayton B652 $42.50

Micca MB42 $59.95

Micca MB42x $79.95

What is the best bang for your buck?

Could you put the speakers in Best to Worst?

I plan on gettin the Lepai 2020A+ unless there is a better amp for the price and then adding a Power Supply Upgrade

Charger: 2016 version Nitecore New i2 Intellicharge Universal Smart Battery Charger for 18650 AAA AA Li-Ion/NiMH US Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HOP6ADE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d2duzb7N34Z31


Battery:2PCS Panasonic 18650 NCR18650B Rechargeable Li-ion Battery, Flat Top 3.7V 3400mAh, BONUS One Hard Plastic Case For Easier Storage and Transport https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C4GFVN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L2duzbYS0EVB8

I found a custom cord page on that site:

https://www.stayonline.com/custom_power_cords.aspx

I'm not sure how it validates the configuration since receptacles have different wires/grounding but they have an email you can contact on there for guidance.

If it's possible to change that plug into a NEMA L5-30 (which it seems is possible on that custom cord page) then op could get a PDU like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000083KIV

That might be a little overkill for what op needs.

Another option to consider is instead of using the C13 to NEMA 5-15 cables from your PSU, you can use C13 to C14 to a PDU that accepts them which would run your PSUs at 240V instead of 120V. Then instead of the NEMA 10-50 to L5-30 op could get a cable that does NEMA 10-50 to L6-30 and a PDU like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007YG85A

This is all operating under the assumption that it is possible to convert 10-50 to L5-30 or L6-30. NEMA 10-50 is non-grounding so that may be an issue.

Anybody used the card-TEC? Currently have this - https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ + a zolt: https://www.amazon.com/Zolt-Portable-Laptop-Charger-Plus/dp/B06X91V6SD. I'm really just looking to slim down so I don't necessarily need the usb-c, could just get the adapter with one or two usb ports. My current universal adapter doesn't way much but the form factor is a little bulky to me. Wondering if it's worth spending extra on one of these but I'm not seeing many reviews....

Mogics thing looks cool but says it weights 16oz? That's pretty heavy.

I recently put one of these adapters in my 2950 to house my 120GB SSD. Works well.

It's cheap construction, but since I won't be swapping it out frequently, I think it will be fine. Apparently they sell a nicer version (i.e., metal) for like 2x the price.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://hackernoon.com/the-best-tv-experience-philips-ambilight-clone-f164e392266a

Something like this is your best bet.

If your not good with soldering you can use something like this.

Dont worry if the label on the connector is wrong, copper is copper.

I get my Led strips from alitove on amazon. They sell different pixel density.

Any 5v power supply(once again alitove) will be sufficient, I recommend a 10a one. You can use it to run your RPI and your leds. The hdmi switcher and hdmi to rca can run off your tv power if your tv has usb plugs.

I would set it up like this:

Main DC-DC (19-29 V in, 24V out) https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B01N52HIWN/ref=pd_sbs_328_19?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LWXI4IE&pd_rd_r=3a7d42c0-b939-4718-81f2-ca90353836cb&pd_rd_w=G3cqq&pd_rd_wg=6c3WR&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&refRID=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&th=1

DC-DC 24V in to 12V out: https://www.amazon.com/Nextrox-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B00BWKXTUU/ref=pd_sbs_328_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BWKXTUU&pd_rd_r=3a7d42c0-b939-4718-81f2-ca90353836cb&pd_rd_w=G3cqq&pd_rd_wg=6c3WR&pf_rd_p=1c11b7ff-9ffb-4ba6-8036-be1b0afa79bb&pf_rd_r=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359&psc=1&refRID=VFTD1C8EVY9SD8P3S359

DC-DC (Battery in OR 24V in to 20V out): https://www.amazon.com/Converter-DROK-Voltage-Regulator-Adjustable/dp/B075RQCW7G/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=20V+dc+dc&qid=1566858344&s=gateway&sr=8-13

​

have fun :)

ohh yes I forgot it's not included. You're going to need a power thing for it. I heard this works well. Keep in mind that you will also need an extra HDMI and USB (male to male) cables as well.

I think it's really silly they don't include them with the box to be honest.

Perfect, that's exactly what I was hoping. So if I were to use something like this to supply the power and split it inside the enclosure, that should work right?

This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.

>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/

That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.

That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.

I assume you are on a tight budget, but if you can come up with a little extra you will be much better off with this battery.

Also, a pure sine wave inverter will be far better for powering/charging sensitive electronics.

For an additional $250 or so, you'll have a battery and inverter that will both last years if used properly.

I really like my Mobius Action cam (Wide angle). It's really easy once it is set up, and I would consider it to be a easy-meduim install for someone who is handy with car wiring. This is a post i made awhile ago on here with some info:

You can see day and night examples from mine at these links: Day / Night
also, here is a recent post on /r/JusticePorn where the road rager behind me crashes at the end: Link

I would consider adhesive mounts. Worst case, you can get residue off windows with some solvent. It's not easier, but it's not an issue if you want it up all the time.

PM me with any questions if you want.

I am talking about my rear setup, but its the same for the front:

Pictures of the install: Link (if you have RES and the last pic is rotated incorrectly, just click the picture)

It is a Mobius ActionCam: Link

To install, I powered it by tapping the radio fuse and running the positive wire back to the rear seat under the door sills. I connected it to this 12V DC to USB converter: Link

I found the correctly angled MiniUSB cable and ran it up to the window: Link

I got an adhesive mount because I didn't want it to ever fall off in the heat like some suction cups can. Also, the defroster lines on the window would prevent a suction. I got the "CH-358" from this page: Link

There are also 2 pictures of the front camera in that album. It was installed in roughly the same manner, but I used a different angled USB cable and a lower profile adhesive mount.

I was working on something very similar yesterday. Yes you will need to power the servo's separately. I was able to get everything from Amazon yesterday. You will need a power supply. I bought a 12V power supply from amazon.

Battery Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RQW5WG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will also need probably two dc-dc step down converters
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXKBJI2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can split these with a simple adapter and connect both of your step down converters
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NNL1YA8/ref=twister_B00NNL1XIG

You will wire the output from one converter to the one side of your breadboard and the other to the otherside. You probably want to separate the power from the pi and your servo's so that you don't get a voltage drop which could damage your pi. There are cheaper solutions to this like using a simple voltage regulator but you would give up 7v in heat. So it is recommended to get an efficient dc converter.

My 2cents

This is the power brick, though you could buy any number of other ones like that one.

This setup (MB42x and Lepai Amp) doesn't really shine until you turn it up pretty loud. I wouldn't discourage you from getting it, but it was only marginally better than my old Logitech z-640 setup at low volumes. At higher volumes it's way, way better.

Info | Details
----|-------
Amazon Product | SMAKN Dc/dc Converter 12v Step Down to 5v/3a Power Supply Module
>Amazon donates 0.5% of the price of your eligible AmazonSmile purchases to the charitable organization of your choice. By using the link above you get to support a chairty and help keep this bot running through affiliate programs all at zero cost to you.

Easy, just turn off the main power strip when you are not gaming.
There is no practical need for a "failsafe", because standby draw should be rather low.

A bit more complex, but safer, is a DJ power strip. Still no"failsafe" but better than the one strip.

Posting as a tinkerer, not necessarily an electronics expert (I'm still in school for that, and only first quarter!).

Just so I'm clear, you are just wanting to use the battery to power the speaker setup, using an MP3 player or something as the source, correct?

This is totally doable, the main item you are missing is some sort of audio amplifier (an mp3 player etc won't drive the speakers). You could build this from scratch, from a kit, or just buy one. From your first sentence, you probably want to buy one, this is one I've had on my Amazon wish list:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3HMEAX7MZ76LD&coliid=IPZIVXD6MGRA9

Assuming the Ruckus batter is 12v, you would be connecting this just like you would to a car. That amplifier just takes RCA for the audio (so just use an adapter cable like you would to connect your MP3 player to your stereo), and then has built in speaker terminals.

You can also wire in something like this so you can power your mp3 player/phone/whatever:

http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395441015&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+to+usb+adapter

For your speakers, I'm not much help there, but I'm figuring you would want something weatherproof so they don't get destroyed (some are made from paper, even a light sprinkle could ruin them pretty quickly).

Anyhow, hope this helps. Usual warnings apply, no warranty, etc etc. :)

There are appropriate power bricks(2.5a+, 5v) that have a power toggle. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2
(Havnt used it, I've just seen it around when looking for the 'same thing' you are)

If your not looking to change the case out for one with buttons, like you had mentioned, your options are a shutdown script macro key/'manual' shutdown + something like that or doing something with the gpio pins and a custom switch to have with the existing case, hope it's something to consider sorry if I wasn't much help

Well if you're running the load as 12v you might be able to just get away with using a beefy enough buck driver to just vary the voltage going to the leds. Assuming they can still get suitable max power from the output end of a buck driver module being fed ~12v, you'd be able to just use an onboard potentiometer or add one yourself to just dial down the voltage. Something that can handle 5A or so might not be very cheap though. You'd also probably not have a very desirable ramping and have a small area of the pot you'd actually be using. Not exactly any easier or cheaper to try to build one yourself either.


Here's a random one from Amazon that seems like it would work for you. What I do with those is just measure what the on board trimmer pot value is then just replace it with a larger one I can throw on with extended leads and have a legit knob to turn without needing a precision flathead lol.

Absolutely!

Another issue is that might be the constant draw but with a peak amp usage of 30 amps when the compressor is first kicking in and what not. I know there's a few solar subreddits, I'll see what they have to say.


Edit:

Not the same model, but a similar fridgeaire being talked about. Looks like they don't list starting amps/watts on their page, so that 4.5 amps is probably closer to 12 or 13a during startup.


http://forum.solar-electric.com/discussion/4507/smallest-most-efficient-a-c

> Re: smallest, most efficient A/C ?

> FYI UPDATE

> I emailed Frigidaire and asked about running that 5200btu EER11 a/c unit from a generator. It took a while, but I finally got a reply.

> "Product = Air Conditioner
> Model Number = FAA055P7A

> Low Voltage Start-Up: Systems are designed to start at 10% below their name plate rated voltage under normal operating conditions.
>This is the voltage requirements: Read the manual for generator to understand about start up voltages and requirements.
>Electrical Information
>Voltage 115
>Amps - Cooling 4.5
>Watts - Cooling 475
>Starting Amps 11.5
>Starting Watts 1,322.50 Note: Generator must be capable of handling this amount of wattage for start up plus whatever else is on the generator.
>Fuse/Breaker (Amps) 15
>Power Cord Amps Min 13"


> EDIT: I inquired further about how low-voltage start-up is achieved (actually, repeated my original query). I quickly received a reply:

> "However to answer your question the fan comes on first and about 3 min later the compressor comes on to keep the starting wattage down. The wattage I gave for start up is absolutely required or it could damage the product."



>So the "low-voltage start-up" on the Frigidaire units is a timer delaying compressor starting until the fan is up to speed.

>The RV "hard start" mod adds an additional capacitor, and usually that capacitor has a timer to delay firing - which achieves both easier compressor starting AND compressor delayed starting.





So with all that I think expect a draw of 1500 watts/13A at startup..... which still seems lower than I would expect. Everyone says you need a crazy large system to handle AC and I'm starting to think a 4000 watt inverter. 2 high efficiency panels and a couple 125a AGM batteries could handle it (albeit for short bursts of 10-20 minutes and understanding it'll have a recharge rate of 3-5x longer than the AC usage.)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ACNO2AO/


What am I missing? This seems too easy.. if it was wouldn't everybody be doing it?

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I have found this option for a 12v battery:

https://www.amazon.com/Miady-Phosphate-Rechargeable-Self-discharge-Replacement/dp/B07Q7FY8CC

Which would then require a charger as well...

Or this option for a boost regulator:
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-90483-Voltage-Regulator-Converter/dp/B00C4QVTNU

I think I will try the later, based on this guy's YouTube explanation: https://youtu.be/jLia59KfkSw


Thanks!

Whatever drive you get, if you are getting a 2.5" and need it to fit in your iMac make sure you buy a Icy Box, other adaptors or brackets will mean that your connectors are too far from the drive or the screw holes and mounting points won't match up. The Icy Box will make sure its identical to a 3.5" drive.

Source: Having to open my computer up 3 times to try and get the right fit! Not fun!

hi, sure! I used a cheap generic "Buck Converter DC DC Step Down" referred in the amazon listing as MP1584EN, that takes max 24V IN (so we should be within the range even on charging phase) and lowers it down to 3.3v needed to run safely the esp8266.

amazon link: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00

​

on my module i have a screw for selecting the desired voltage output, you have to be very accurate, slights movements of this screw cause big changes in output, but with some patience and a multimeter you should be able to set it up for your desired OUT value.

​

as for your LDO attempt: i don't know which model you used but if it gets hot it's either too much voltage IN, hence the lowering process produces too much heat or too much amperage to sustain. Check the datasheets if you remember which model you used

After much research, this is what Ive learned

US wall outlets are 120v. Most countries are 240v. Japan is weird, being 100v.

By all accounts, plugging a 100v device into a 120v outlet should be fine, as long the device isnt one that produces heat, like a hair dryer. The dryer would generate something like 40% more heat which is no good. Regular electronics should be fine though.

However, since the gear in question is a few hundred bucks, and already from 1994, I figured I'd get a step-down transformer. which I found here

http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405482716&sr=8-2&keywords=transformer+100v

this takes the 120v juice and steps it down to 100v for the device, worry free.

https://www.amazon.com/EZConvert-MB882SP-1S-2B-Weight-Converter-Mounting/dp/B002Z2QDNE

Use 100's of these at my work. Easiest and best option in my opinion.

Have this mouse and love it. Pro-tip: buy lithium AAA batteries and use a single one with a AAA to AA adapter. Makes the mouse <100g weight; amazing for those of us with really low dpi.

Specifically I use this combination and get 100 hours + playtime on a single battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-Ultimate-Lithium-Batteries-Count/dp/B06ZYWKBRB/ref=sr_1_3?crid=RL8TO6P0PCXX&keywords=aaa%2Blithium%2Bbatteries&qid=1566184348&s=gateway&sprefix=aaa%2Blithium%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-3&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/LAMPVPATH-Battery-Adapter-Converter-adapter/dp/B07D6RDQ3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aaa+to+aa+converter&qid=1566184360&s=gateway&sr=8-3

This is what I use: sorry on my mobile.
Get it before you go. It's 200$ on Amazon.jp.co lol Japan. But fucking love it here. This goofy over priced island nation. (Learn to read katakana and hiragana before you come it will be the biggest help) I still can't read much kanji 10 years later.... You can work on that later.


https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524007422&sr=8-2&keywords=japan+transformer

Battery will drain fast.

See if you can find a Nitecore charger at Walmart or a similar store or just same day order one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/version-Nitecore-Intellicharge-Universal-Battery/dp/B01HOP6ADE

Good luck!

I use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465745826&sr=8-5&keywords=step+down+power+converter

it works well.

Just remember you have to set it up to convert properly with some jumper on the back. I forgot at first and was lucky the piece of gear didn't fry, though less than 220 is safer than more than 120 in terms of conversion

Keep trying new things. I'm lucky to have a proper room where I can get everything just right, but one new pedal or synth comes along, and the whole setup gets torn apart and reconfigured. That's half the fun! I get the cut-to-length velcro by the roll and use it on everything.

I can't quite see everything you've got going on, but since you've got that rack, you could add a power strip (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q) to get all your power plugs organized behind convenient toggle switches (might hide away some of the clutter also).

You probably don't need a patch bay just yet, but if you add a few more audio inputs/outputs, and you find yourself juggling connections too much, consider adding one, such as: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PX3000/. That can help with organizing cables and routing options as your setup grows.

Not sure if both power adapters are pushing through the same voltage, but here another redditor bought a replacement power adapter for the lighthouse stations:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4usa5w/extra_base_station_ac_power_adapters/

He used these ones, they worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QIbMxbNFX0YHC

Thank you for the reply, I was looking at using ws2812 strips because they give me the option to change colors, so i could hook up a dip switch and have different modes for her use depending on what she wanted it to display. I did the math for this and it seems like it would require 5 amps to power all the LEDs in the strip that I want on. I am struggling to find a 5v 6amp power supply that i could use for both the lights and the arduino.

I was looking for a barrel plug to connect to the arduino for power then i would just strip that and add the lights in parallel to that, would that work or is there a better way to do it?

edit: I found This power supply. Would this work to provide power to the arduino and LEDs?

Yes, you will need an amp. This is the cheapest amp I would recommend, it does not come with a power cable or cables to connect to PC so I have included them as well.

Kinter MA-180 12V MINI Power Car Computer Amplifier USB Port Charging (Red)
by Kinter
Link: https://amzn.com/B006AMF2R8

Replacement 60W 12V 5A Adapter Charger for Benq LCD Monitors
by electree
Link: https://amzn.com/B003Z6ZR5O

C&E 3.5mm Stereo Male to Dual RCA Male (Right and Left) Audio Cable, 1 Foot
by C&E
Link: https://amzn.com/B015N529Z

Most 140mm case fans should only pull 1-2 watts.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/140mm-fan-roundup_12.html

A small wall wart should do it. I'd just repurpose something I already had, but something like this would do it:
http://amzn.com/B00KZ2ZQE8

Also going down to 9v might be an option for this setup as it would make it quieter at the expense of slower fan speed.

Someone else already mentioned the ThruNite C2, an 18650 charger and power bank.

Also, be aware that the Xtar PB2 mentioned may not fit button tops, or any protected cell, so that limits what 18650s you can charge in it.

Here are some of my suggestions. I only included suggestions that can take USB for its power source, not a DC connector. If you lose the DC connector cable, it will take some effort to get a replacement cable, whereas micro USB cables are easily replaceable.

Xtar Ant MC1 Plus or MC2 Plus - a simple 1-slot or 2-slot lithium ion only charger. Power source is micro USB.

If you change your mind and decide you want NiMH as well:

LittonKala Lii-100 is a dirt cheap 1-bay lithium ion + NiMH charger, and can act as a power bank. Power source is micro USB.

Opus BT - C100 is an advanced 1 bay charger that takes lithium ion + NiMH, and can act as a power bank. Power source is micro USB or DC adapter.

Olight UC Magnetic USB charger cable - Very compact, like a pair of earphones. Can charge lithium ion + NiMH. Power source is the USB type A (large rectangle) connector, plugs straight into your power bank. Might not be reliable if you're walking around with this, as the magnetic connectors might fall off due to your movement.

You would need a soldering iron. You can desolder the av connector and solder it to the pi. Im confused how you want to power it. If you want to power everything off a 5v in you need a dc to dc booster like this to power the screen. Or if you want to power everything off 12v like the monitor needs you can use something like this. The pi needs about 2amp to run so just check how much the screen needs (its on the back sticker) to figure out your input

Yeah, something like a AA battery holder inside the case. The Z-11Pro2 has room inside the case for it and even has solder pads to make it easy. It's described in the manual. I don't know if the AT-100Pro2 would allow for something similar, but it seems to be of similar size and construction to the Z-11Pro2 so it might be worth taking a look at.

How about this one? It's priced pretty well too compared to the foreign models. It doesn't have a microwave though. Otherwise:

1. If you just want to use superheated steam, buy a pressure cooker or use a spray bottle or a tray full of water with your normal oven, depending on what you're making.
   
   
2. If you're set on importing one of those, buy a voltage converter. Looks like everything is under 1500W.
   
   

Having some issues getting mine set up, anyone able to help a brotha out?

I noticed you used ws2812b led strip but I have Different wires and I cant get my led strip to light up. I feel like such a noob. I tried following the imgur guide but i guess I'm a little slow and cant figure it out.

Here's what I bought....

Lights

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B5ZPCTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Power

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0KLECZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Arduino

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWOE0UU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you want/need the ability to change the colors? I feel like adding color changing with mobile control is a bit overkill here. A simple backing board with LEDs hardwired, an on/off button or switch, and a small cord to plug it into the wall would be enough. Even if you want to use an Arduino I'd still suggest plugging in into a wall instead of batteries, especially if you include some form of mobile link.

​

Edit: if you are not good with circuits I would suggest starting with something like this, a power supply ( the 5V one they suggest will work) , and an Arduino with a library that works with the WS2811. Plug the lights into holes on a firm thin board behind the planets and light them up or flash them with the arduino. If you don't like the big bulbs and can solder you could also just glue these to the board.

If you get that going then add the mobile control, or don't, later.

From what I've seen, Mausberry has sold out of the car power supply switches. I get the feeling they've moved onto new stuff and won't be making more of them, but I'd be okay with being wrong about that.

I have that same TFT touchscreen thing, and am looking to put it together in my car as well (though I may use an /r/ODroid C1 instead of an RPi, but that's another discussion).

From a different online discussion of Pi Carputers (don't have a link handy, if I find it, I'll edit it in later), I found a 12V to 5V USB power converter (here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/) which can provide always-on or switched power.

There are several discussions of using GPIO to cue the RPi to gracefully shut itself off, especially on StackExchange (http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/). There's just a lot of homework to do here.

I can't for the life of me find the exact heater, but this one is pretty close. The main difference being that mine is a 300W.

https://www.amazon.ca/Metro-Japanese-kotatsu-Heater-Warmer/dp/B000BK47A8/ref=pd_sbs_79_13?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000BK47A8&pd_rd_r=87eec204-2e55-11e9-88a1-f3496d10471d&pd_rd_w=3MzX7&pd_rd_wg=3Sa0h&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=J0PC5A13BD4KFR6QH4JQ&psc=1&refRID=J0PC5A13BD4KFR6QH4JQ

And this is the transformer I have. As you can see in the description, it suggests a 3x the wattage transformer.

https://www.amazon.ca/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts-500-watt/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=pd_sim_79_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000PC4JL4&pd_rd_r=9c0a0209-2e55-11e9-bd47-6589b5dff133&pd_rd_w=ADOJQ&pd_rd_wg=9U9u4&pf_rd_p=29a85b27-a36a-4f8d-94ca-61aa962c5f39&pf_rd_r=X2HX2VZSTHWR3W0JBX04&psc=1&refRID=X2HX2VZSTHWR3W0JBX04

Do you have any power near your rearview?

My car doesnt have the optional compass/map light/powered rearview, but the power leads are there, so I just tapped into them, and added one of these

Now the camera(G1W-C, in my case) is right next to the mirror, and just powers on/off with the iginition.

The G1W-C isnt meant to run without a connected power source - just long enough to finish writing out to the flash card when power goes away.

I got mine from Foxoffer, and it seemed to be a pretty straightforward transaction.

Most home theater devices, receivers especially, are NOT dual voltage. I am in the US military and am currently overseas so dual voltage electronics are very important to me. I found an international version of Yamaha's Aventege series, called the RX-V2067 and it has a nice little voltage selector switch. Back to your question, it is going to be very hard to find a dual voltage home theater system for $400. My solution to your issue: just buy a transformer (like this one).

Physics doesn't care what you have on hand, 10W+ from USB just isn't going to happen.

These aren't too big and SLA is by far the cheapest route. It would run the Pi and screen for hours on a charge.

Run the Pi on something like this.

I'd wire it to a lighter plug and then have a socket connected to the battery, that way you could just unplug it and plug it into the car.

You can't do much better than the Zebralights in that price range. There are competitors that produce similar designs such as the Armytek Wizard Pro. The design of these is really refined at this point so they're all quite good.

The main thing to keep in mind with those lights is if you're using one that takes 18650 batteries (and you should because lithium ion is much better than the alternatives) you need to find a quality source of those batteries. Cavers almost universally go for Panasonic brand like these. Just watch out for counterfeits because they do exist. You'll also want a "smart" charger that will treat your batteries right and make sure they last a long time. So there is a little more cost up front but these batteries are used in a lot of headlamps and flashlights so it's a good investment.

Just buy a cheap universal adapter(with good reviews though). You don't need a transformer for a laptop or phone charger.


something like this

You didn't specify how big you wanted, but may I suggest "Addressable LEDs"?
https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/the-magic-of-neopixels
.
You will need to be able to solder wires.
Here is a 1 meter length strip, 12mm wide is ~ 1/2 inch,
6.9mm is ~ 0.27 inch between centers
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61oiR3Lo5rL._SL1000_.jpg
.
Here's a closeup of all the details:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61Nxr4h0WHL._SL1000_.jpg
adhesive to mount the strip
when you want a short piece to fit, you cut to length and then rejoin with 3 wires.
See the 3 colored pads? See the Arrows?

Software? look at "Adafruit_NeoPixel" library, there are several examples
Here is an incomplete example of filling a whole string
// Fill the dots one after the other with a color
void colorWipe(uint32_t c, uint8_t wait) {
for(uint16_t i=0; i<strip.numPixels(); i++) {
strip.setPixelColor(i, c);
strip.show();
delay(wait);
}
}
.
$22 144 pixels, Not Waterproof Black flexible PCB
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Individually-Addressable-Programmable-Waterproof/dp/B019DYZNO6/
$21 for power to the strip
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-Charger-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B01M0KLECZ/

This was the UPS that was purchased. https://www.cdw.com/product/APC-Smart-UPS-SRT-6000VA-RM-UPS-6000-Watt-6000-VA/3590615?cm_ven=email&cm_cat=ET_BC&cm_pla=MKT14Q076adu0000p0000&cm_ite=MKT14Q076_20180201_TRIG_PRODCATCH__CTRL_A&etsi=12258963&etsu=&obem=r6tIoIA1Z0S7QJ6YyY4EeD30ItfeRgzMhoxC7JcVWmc%3D

As for a rack we have a single rail rack about 6 foot tall. Nothing special. The company I work for is moving their servers back in house so they never had a heavy duty rack. Currently holds our ASA, Switch, PBX system, and a couple other odds & ends.

The PDU I was looking at on amazon is here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007YG85A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Thanks for all of this!

Dont do this, you may still fry the box, you need to get a stepdown converter, it will plug into your wall then step down your 220v to 110v, it will also help protect your box a little more if you get a power surge.

Source: multiple deployments with xbox 360

Edit: Here is an example on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HOP6ADE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty cheap and works well.

I have a Skross since ages, works well and very sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/Skross-Travel-Adapter-2-pole-Charger/dp/B00E4GF2TU

​

Before that I had a similar looking one but much cheaper, generic brand, you could feel it was much more fagile and poorly built. Tt burnt in South Africa when I plugged it into the wall lol. https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ

The shape of the plug is different because the receiver uses 220/240 volts instead of the United States standard 110 volts, so you can't just get an adapter to plug it into a standard outlet. Assuming you don't want to rewire your wall outlet to put out 220 volts, you'd have to use some form of step up transformer like this to get the proper voltage.

If it is a charger made to plug into an auto cigarette lighter, It is rated for the lead acid voltages. Even during charging of the lead acid battery.

A better solution to have a balance draw from the 24V, is to use a step down converter. You can google for others.

Your fridge won't run long on that battery via an inverter, mate. That being said, you can buy a dc-dc step-down converter like this to push down the voltage to 12V then use car/solar accessories.

You'll definitely have enough power to have light, mobile recharge, etc.

You could even use a step-up converter and charge your battery using solar panels.

Add a fuse: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011I9QZX2/

You will also need a 12v to 5v converter: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/

12v positive side of the converter goes to the add-a-fuse. For the 12v negative, screw it to any bare metal under your dash. Pre-drill or use a self-tapping screw.

5v positive and negative go to dashcam's positive and negative. In the case of a USB cable (which is what I have), red and black are positive and negative, respectively.

Make sure you look on the packaging to see if your dash cam is 5v or 12v. You can skip the convert if it's 12v. If it's USB, it will be 5v though.

One last note: Add it to a fuse that is only active when your car is on. Test this with a multimeter (one side on the fuse, other side on bare metal)

100v transformers are fairly cheap on Amazon and a good investment if you want to get further into Japanese computers (do it!).

I use one of these for my HB-101: https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4/ref=sr_1_1?

Get a 12v -> 5v inverter and connect it to the cigarette lighter port (hack an already existing one?). It'll power up and down with car ignition. Make it automatically join your home wifi network, and sync folders when it joins that network, and expect it'll do that every time you pull into the garage, and let it idle for a minute to ensure upload has completed.

12u Royal rack. It comes on wheels, which is a plus for me. Also grab yourself a rack mount power switch These are really nice to have for power cycling devices, and they look cool too.

I've heard lots of great things about the American DJ power strips. https://www.amazon.com/American-Pc-100A-Mount-Power-Switcher/dp/B0002GL50Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491478959&sr=1-5&refinements=p_4%3AAmerican+DJ

This is what I ultimately bought. So far it's working great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z2QDNE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

This is the switch I bought and works great:

https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498302064&sr=8-3&keywords=power+switch+for+raspberry+pi+3

Just got this , problem solved , also I have 2 usb flashdrives and now when I switch I don’t need to unplug the power cord from the ps classic

I saw this posted here working great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N336XEU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you can try something like this https://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496634862&sr=1-14&keywords=POWER+CONVERTER


but you really need to do some research on the specific power needs of your slow cooker and the Chinese power grid to know specifically what you need... or buy on from a country that uses 220.



-Chinese power grid facts 220V 50Hz



-US Power grid facts 120V 60Hz



-Slow cooker need to knows(look for a sticker with numbers like 120V ~ 60Hz ~ 275W

-voltage range covered - this is the number or number range followed buy the V for those that dont know

-Frequency range covered - this is the Hz number or number range - i am unsure what effect using a cooker meant only for 60Hz on 50Hz will have but it will most likely not heat correctly or track time correctly

-Wattage of the cooker - this is the number followed by the W - very important if you get a converter as it needs to be able to handle around 50% more then the wattage of the cooker or you can overload the converter

Look at the power supply on your computer. Chances are that it can handle 100V/50Hz input just as well as 120V/60z (as most power adapters can).

So, you'll just need a 3-prong to 2-prong adapter.

If you're really worried about it, get a converter like this: http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts/dp/B000PC4JL4 (just watch total load)
You could buy it ahead of time or once there. I don't know about Hokkaido, but they can easily be found in Tokyo.

Pretty much any 18650 charger, and as long as they're quality high amp batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/version-Nitecore-Intellicharge-Universal-Battery/dp/B01HOP6ADE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_200_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZVVEGEG3Y3V72DNS2ZGX

For batteries I like the brown LG HG2, but really, any high drain high amp 18650 battery will work fine.

I don't actually know the amp draw of the Air, but any 20A -
30A battery will be more than enough headroom.

If this is greek to you, you can always get batteries directly from Airizer. When I got my Air when it first came out, they wanted $25/ea for them, and they were selling a $5 charger for $30.

Get the NorthPada. It is capable of supply 3A, which will easily handle overclocking and any peripherals, and also has an on/off switch so you don't have to keep pulling out the cable. The on/off switch is must have after you use it.

US mains electricity is only slightly higher voltage than Japanese mains electricity so you should be able to use a Japanese system in North America without a step-down transformer (and many do).

If you really wanted to confirm the power supply can handle the slightly higher voltage you'd need to look at the PCB, as the back of the console will only indicate 100V. This one is rated at 85V-132V, for example, so would work fine in Japan or North America. You'd need to check your own power supply though to see what it could handle.

Otherwise they do sell step-down transformers like this but it could well be unnecessary.

Ah makes sense, thanks for all the info!

So from a full day of research here's what I'm thinking:


2M of RBGW SK6812

Splitting them into 12 - 6 inch long strips. (Probably only use 6-8 but figured better to have more than not enough)

Battery power through 7.5A fuse (the strip is rated at 43W/m at 5V the next fuse is 10A so figured go lower to be safer?) and relay/switch tapped to ACC line run through 12v step down to 5v through ALITOVE bluetooth controller into wago connectors with diodes going to each strip



https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Non-waterproof/dp/B079ZX7LY3/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539729680&sr=8-2&keywords=rgbw%2Bsk6812&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Female-Connector-WS2812B-SK6812-RGBW/dp/B071H5XCN5/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539737420&sr=8-3&keywords=LED+connector+3+pin

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539736197&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+step+down+to+5v

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Controller-SK6812-RGBW-Programmable/dp/B07G77YD9L/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539734109&sr=8-1&keywords=12v++SK6812


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107SYYGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Look for one that takes 18650 batteries. They are common Li-Ion cells.

Like this one
https://www.imrbatteries.com/soshine-e3s-4x18650-power-bank-and-battery-charger-black/

or this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Function-Portable-Digital/dp/B07D48V1Y7/

You want to avoid the super cheap ones because they will have cheap charging circuits more likely to wreck the batteries.

Buy name brand 18650 batteries like Samsung, Sony, or LG.
https://www.imrbatteries.com/lg-f1l-18650-3350mah-4-8a-flat-top-battery/

Hey,

My wife has me on this mission as well, she has two hair tools (one is like a stick, one is the clamping thing) both are 110-240v 50-60hz. If I buy this item, can I just plug them into it, then it into the wall, and be fine (I know both can't be used at the same time, but i assume the dual voltage indicator on both items means they are made precisely for this application). I just don't want her blowing them up then being sad. We will also be in Italy later in the month and I figure it should work the same way there as well?


She also has a blow dryer but its 110v (so non dual?) and I don't think that is safe to plug into a UK/EU outlet (Becasue they push 220v?).



Lastly, with this item, at night time can we let say use the 2 USB slots for our phones and the one AC/plug slot for our laptop no problem?


Thanks!

Adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Worldwide-Universal-Adaptor-Charging/dp/B01DJ140LQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=415R88TWPH12KEZNPHYC

>pre-outs continue to play when headphones are connected

Jason explained this, there's no 4 pin XLR jack that supports muting.

I solved this issue using a power switcher but my gear is on an audio rack, so it might not be the best solution for free-standing gear.

Which conversion cables are you referring to?

Here's my planned setup. From the wall socket which is a NEMA 14-30R I plan on plugging the following PDU into it https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A

with the following adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077V2JSVV/

Now the question is do i need to use any special PSU cables? Should I use the C19 ports on the PDU or are the standard C13 cables fine?

I plan on running 5 rigs, each rig is pulling about 750 from the wall when plugged into a standard 110 wall outlet.

I think the easiest thing to do would be to buy or build (only if you know your AC wiring) a step-down transformer. The ratio of turns should be 2:1, so the output voltage will be half of the input voltage; 115V. I am assuming since you say 230V that you live in EU/UK/etc, so it will be 115Vac at 50 Hz, not 60 like in the US. Either way, if the amplifier's power supply is a standard linear one, the mains frequency shouldn't matter too much. Be absolutely sure that the fuse is the only thing you damaged when your brother hooked it up to 230V.

edit: Something like [this](http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource%C2%AE-Voltage-Converter- Transformer-ST500/dp/B0022QOSDK/ref=pd_tcs_compl_e_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=0E994NKEG6RBTZVPTAHJ) should work. If you want to move away from having an external transformer do all the work, you'll have to do some more research.

I can tell you from personal experience that the Flirc case is legit! I use it with an OC'ed pi @ 1350\525 and have yet to see temps rise above 60c! The catch is though, instead of using the thermal pad they include with the case, I use a small copper shim with thermal paste on both sides interfacing the soc and case, respectively. It's solid too, not like those cheapy acrylic cases! Plus you won't have to deal with any annoying fan noise!

As far as a ps goes, I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510362231&sr=1-1&keywords=raspberry+pi+power+supply+3a

Edit:
To answer you original question: No, using a 2.5a ps with an OC'ed pi will either work or it won't be able to supply enough juice causing oddities or crashes... it will not "burnout the components" as the pi has a polyfuse so you will pop that before anything else.

ps4 is about 200w gaming and has pretty high idle consumption of 50w so disconnect when not in use. Add in the power usage from your TV (Let's say 100w which is overkill). Your laptop drawing 13A? That seems too high, no laptop draws 1500w. my high end laptop draws 170w. 1500w is a really big gaming computer with dual gpus.

I'd estimate ps4, tv, and laptop power usage at 400w (overestimated a bit) if you wanted to do that 6 hours a day that is 2,400kwh. I've read you shouldn't discharge a battery below 50% so cut any ratings in half.
This battery is good for 750 watt-hours

https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO

For your whole setup you would need 3.2, maybe 3 of those batteries.

Take this with a grain of salt, I'm good with power calculations, but don't have too much knowledge of solar system design.

I did a project about 3 years ago for an emergency lighting system. None of those dinky plug-in units that will barely light your feet as you walk past. No this thing lights up the whole house using those long 5-meter 12V LED strips you find on eBay. And it will output high brightness for well over 24hrs, though never tested that long. Longest outage so far was 1/2 day.

I got a 125AH deep-cycle marine battery:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ACNO2AO

A smart charger:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JSHQW0

A 12V automotive relay (to switch to battery on power outage), some 12V LED strips, wires, panel-mount volt/ammeters. The system's been running fine for 3 years.

Yes. I've done it. My 2008 Mac Pro is still a monster of a machine! I got an Icy Dock which lets you mount a 2.5 inch drive in the Mac Pro's hard drive bays.

http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE

Once you've got an SSD, just clone (Carbon Copy Cloner) your existing boot drive to the SSD and then swap the drive or put the SSD in one of the three other bays.

As for SSD choice, I'll defer to the other more knowledgeable redditors about that. :)

My Setup due to my Vanity:

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B:

https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B 5v3a Power Supply:

https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU

Buffalo iBuffalo Classic Super Nintendo USB Gamepad:

https://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-iBuffalo-Classic-Gamepad-BSGP815GY/dp/B06XWD8QQJ/

Rasptendo Case:

https://www.amazon.com/Rasptendo-Retro-Gaming-Case-Raspberry/dp/B076F7VDR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518438946&sr=8-1&keywords=rasptendo

OR

NESPI Case

https://www.amazon.com/functional-POWER-button-Raspberry-Retroflag/dp/B074DSXF7F/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518438976&sr=1-3&keywords=Nespi+Case

How would something like this fair for a stepdown converter" https://www.amazon.ca/VCT-VT-500J-Japanese-Transformer-Converts-500-watt/dp/B000PC4JL4

Not sure if that's a cheap brand or not, but I guess i should pick one up sooner or later, just for securities sake

I have one of these installed in my rig and its fantastic. It currently lives under the bench seat. If you are adding a second battery to an already existing auxillary battery setup be aware that the current life of your battery now can affect your new battery. Basically batteries need to be installed in the same condition (ideally new) or they can screw each other up. If you're just adding a new Aux battery that will be isolated from the starter battery you should be good.

USB outputs 5v, that is probably what these were designed to be used for, powered by USB.

The specs say 0.3W per led, the description says "150 pixels" and I'm guessing that means 150 LED's, so that's 45W per strip, but that seems like a LOT for USB.

You could use a 12v->5v step-down transformer to reduce the 12V voltage down to 5V but that one only handles 3 amps.

I can't find a link to the one I have, but it's something like this.

Interesting...

I'm using one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0KLECZ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Should I add a capacitor or something to help even out surges or etc? Bigger power supply?

Ahhhh right okay. So how comes you suggested the 7805 instead of a buck step down? Would this be fine?

When I was first trying to get it to work, Radioshack was trying to get me to pick up two battery packs which held 4 AA's each. I didn't want to deal with that so I found a charger online and hardwired it into the LEDs with a small switch.
Here's the charger I used

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I mounted a

I also picked up a heavy duty mountable surge protector that I mounted on the back so I would have a convenient place to plug in the fan, freezer and LEDs. This is what I picked up for that one.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This BIGGEST thing to remember is to make sure the volts and amps are enough in the plug in you are using. My LEDS need 12v and 2 amps. As far as I know, it's ok to have more amps than you need, but don't go over on volts

I am buying a couple 220V/240V essential oil diffusers, pretty small, you think this will work?
http://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK/

i just followed the examples in the adafruit neopixel library for the python side. The PHP is pretty self explanatory if you piddle around with PHP any.

i used these LEDs https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Addressable-Digital-Diffused-Waterproof/dp/B06XD72LYM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509935755&sr=8-3&keywords=ws2812b+led+string

A Raspberry Pi

this power supply to power the Pi and the LEDs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0KLECZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heres the code https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LkXqiQbU6o7YZ9F1NESZTwvruubY4cTp

its just some PHP to scrape the metar and convert to flight condition and then some python to talk to the LEDs.

Schematics is plug the green wire from the LEDs to GPIO pin 18 on the R Pi.

I used a diode between power and the LED power as well. Cant remember why but I saw it one of the docs.

I run a cron every 15 minutes on the pi to run the PHP script and update the colors.

No that's not it. It's definitely caused by unplugging it from the PSC, I ran a multitude of tests to verify.

I get this error sometimes, but it has never caused any real issues, I just let windows do the check and it has never had any problems.

The best thing you can do is let it sit for at least 10 seconds after the orange light comes on. I don't unplug the cable, never have. I have always used one of these and I much prefer it over unplugging the damn thing every time. https://www.amazon.com/NorthPada-Raspberry-Supply-Charger-Adapter/dp/B01N336XEU

I use two of these when I bring my Vive places since the original power cables are in the wall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work fine.

I had seen this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Where they specify that damage could occur if used at less than 10% load (which at a design load of 1 amp an esp8266 would be pulling ~3-6% of an amp most of the time). Unfortunately I just realized that neither of these are what I need as I forgot that my source is 24 vac rather than vdc. I could rectify it but am trying to avoid an having circuits upon circuits in my design atm. Thanks anyway for pointing that one out. that's good info for future projects.

This regulator has been working well on my car to get from ~12 down to 5v. Way overkill for just a pi though. This should work.

This regulator looks like it can power the fury. I'm not sure if it can boost input voltage up to 12, but it will definitely drop it down to 12.

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Outlets-Rack-Mount-PDU1230/dp/B0007YG85A/

Just swap the socket to a L6-30 and run with it :)

Where is this shit made? If Europe you need a step up converter. Anyway play safe and if you are unsure just get a converter. Check the power draw and typically you can use a power strip to get more outlets. I use a US step down to Japanese for some Japanese arcade cabs and step up for Amiga cd32. All else fails rtfm, they usually have power specs.

Something like this is nice to have around
https://www.amazon.com/Goldsource-STU-500-Voltage-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0022QOSDK

I got one from a target that brickseek specifically said was out of stock. They had a few and they didn't have any kind of indication that it was marked down I just asked the employee to price check it and it came up at $34.98. So I would just call around to targets and ask if they have it.

EDIT: Here is a video from Linus Tech Tips about the g305. Getting a AA to AAA adapter and using a AAA battery helps the weight distribution dramatically.

I like using 12V switch mode PSU units for my gadgets. They're cheaper and expandable for other purposes. The PI is 5V if I'm not mistaken. You'd need to step the voltage down to 5V.

Check out these links:

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Converter-Power-Supply-Module/dp/B00CXKBJI2

http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/5v-power-supply

https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/7913/powering-a-pi-from-12v

So this thing?

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Transformer-Protective/dp/B07JZ2GQJF/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&qid=1555523573&s=gateway&sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-6

or

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-MP1584EN-Converter-Adjustable-Module/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3I3IZD7AZM51S&keywords=buck+converter+24v+to+12v&qid=1555523573&s=gateway&sprefix=buck+converter+24v%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-4

Are there any other new parts I would need to buy to use it? Sorry for the probably dumb questions but like I said I'm very new to all this.

Don't be sorry for the wall of text, that link was very helpful.

I'm giving up on the RGBW and going with standard RGB for the time being.

If I go with one of the Magic Home RGB controllers, they state they can go all the way up to 12v, although I'd probably rather run 5v to it. I could get this step-down (as the article suggest) with this power supply. Or can the Magic Home take 12v no problem?

Get a couple of these: DROK DC Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 8A/100W 12A Max DC 5-40V to 1.2-36V Step Down Volt Convert Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QVTNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_B54Ryb49TBWSY

And set them to convert 12v to the voltage and amps you need. Easy.

If you've got a good power supply the pi will be able to run the arduino. You'll still need a power supply for your stepper. If done properly you could use a 12V to 5V step down converter and run the entire thing from the 12V supply.

If you're this far into a project already why are you just now asking about power requirements? This should have been the very first thing you addressed.

Most PSU fans won't run all the time, and there probably won't be enough airflow over the stuff that needs it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQGMOKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lEJZAbQ7GGQP4

One of those in line to the small fans will let you adjust the voltage and find a speed that's a good compromise between noise and cooling.

I just bought this on Amazon:

NorthPada Raspberry Pi 3 Model B B+ A+ Plus Power Supply Charger AC Adapter 5V 3A PSU Micro USB 5 Feet with Power On/Off Switch (1 X Power Supply) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N336XEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_l6hYDb3DGMMPR

I hope it will suit my needs without power issues since it had an on/off switch.

Funnily enough, I learned not too long ago they also make adapters...

Absolutely.
CO-RODE 8 x AA 12V Battery Holder Case Box Wired ON/OFF Switch w Cover Pack of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_E2Lq75GukclKc
MEILI LED Light Strip SMD 3528 16.4 Ft 5 Meter Waterproof 300 LEDs 12V Flexible Rope Light (No Power Supply), Blue >>[And Green And Red]<< https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDNAM74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_88h2Weq3pqCKv
AspenTek 2835 3528 LED Strip Light Inline ON/OFF Switch DC Power Adapter Connector ,No Need Welding, 3 Packed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H0GR3E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MQf9cblTta6L1
We soldered everything together (we didn't use provided connectors)
Hope this helps!

Usually people do recommend getting a more powerful power supply (~ 5A) instead of the default 2A one that comes with the Lepai amp. You could try getting it replaced and see if that fixes the problem, though.

I did an amazon search for you: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=24v%20to%2012v%20step%20down%20converter

The first one would be fine.

so lets say I used a 12V battery power supply, connected to a step down for 12V to 5V, connected to the arduino, should i be fine??
Battery: https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Wired-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522627066&sr=8-3&keywords=12+volt+battery+power+supply

Step down: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Converter-Regulator-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B01ENT1PPM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522627182&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=12v+to+5v+step+down+converter&psc=1

Ok, so something like this? 12v input into cigarette port connect to 12v input of module and 12v output of module connect to 12v neutral wire coming from cigarette port? Then 5v output on module goes to dashcam wire?

edit*

These are great. I struggled to find one and eventually settled on this which is very similar.

Yes, it's common practice in some studios. Mostly for just cross referencing on multiple monitors, or turning on/off a sub.

There's actually a rack mount version of a power strip for that very reason.

This would be safest if you loaded it with 1.5V batteries https://www.amazon.com/CO-RODE-Battery-Holder-Switch/dp/B00VE7HBMS/

Another option is RC style batteries such as, https://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-2000mAh-NiMH-Battery-Leads/dp/B077Y9HNTF/

Longest life you need a lead acid, https://www.amazon.com/NPP-Rechargeable-Battery-Security-Terminal/dp/B01FYJHP9K/ although you can get them smaller sizes too.

I would say yes.

My hands are the same size as yours, my main mouse used to be a G203 which has a very similar shape to the G305.

Use AAA Lithium Batter With this to reduce the weight of the mouse.

I bought this off of amazon and it works ok. I don't use it as much as I was using it in Turkey but haven't had problems so far (almost one year later).

You need to wire a USB converter in to the switch. Shouldn't be too hard to figure it out.

Like this

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Module-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sxbs_bbp_recs_sx_w_p_v1?keywords=usb+to+12v+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00BMIVFK8&pd_rd_r=4fc8a9b5-e19c-46db-9815-2254702fd946&pd_rd_w=lCPmS&pd_rd_wg=lJ0Oy&pf_rd_p=635af317-3bc8-48e5-85cd-9c9c6b613408&pf_rd_r=1THN2VB7TREAYZ6ZVWA9&qid=1573006428

Yes, you can split the 12v DC rail from the screen and downvolt one of them to 5v using something like this and run that to USB. I was working on doing just this with mine but instead opted for a battery pack that had the needed 5v2.1a USB out and a 12vDC out on one 20000mAh battery unit to make it portable.