Reddit mentions: The best electrical adapters & multi-outlets

1. Easy2Boot - http://www.easy2boot.com: Use this to build your USB bootable. You prep the drive with it, and then just drag and drop ISOs :D So easy :D thx, /u/craig131!
   
   
2. TRON - http://bmrf.org/repos/tron/ (official repo) : TRON is a great package allowing you to check systems, repair many types of damage to windows, and remove virii and malware. it is in this subreddit, if you care to look.
   
   
3. Portable Apps - http://www.portableapps.com : A great suite of portable apps you can run off your USB key. Firefox, Chrome, OpenOffice, ClamAV, and many others. Even games, but this is a tech question...
   
   
4. Sysinternals Suite - http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb545021.aspx - The name is well known, and is quite an impressive suit. It speaks for itself.
   
   
5. NTPasswd - Available through Sardu. : I've run into a LOT of customers who REFUSE to give me their user OR admin passwords, and it's wound up being required to fix and backup their junk. Use ONLY for legit reasons, please.
   
   
6. Ninite - Http://www.ninite.com : A wonderful package site that lets you choose productivity, AV, antimalware, antispyware, and other apps and runtimes in ONE stub downloader. Simply choose the apps you want, and click "downlaod installer" It will download a file less than 300k in size that you can run on an internet connected windows PC, and it will download and install the applications you chose. You can even have task scheduler run it in silent, if you ahve the PRO subscription, and it will update the apps, as well.
   
   
7. 33 piece screwdriver set, made by "Pittsburgh" - http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/comfort-grip-screwdriver-set-33-pc-61255.html : Nice set, magnetized tips, and a socket driver with bits is included. Useful for most tasks.
   
   
8. 34 piece PRECISION screwdriver set - http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html : Once again, very usefull for smaller and small ODD bit types of screws. Made by "Pittsburgh" and even includes a flex shaft for getting around corners, if need be.
   
   
9. 100 piece SECURITY bit set. - http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html : Trust me, I hate those little screws with the BUMP in the middle. This takes care of most, and even Apple devices in many cases. Not too shabby for the price.
   
   
10. 14 function digital multimeter - http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html : Nice meter. Not a FLUKE, but not 50.2 googol dollars, either.
    
    
11. 5 Function digital clamp on meter - http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-on-multimeter-95652.html : Used for measuring current draw, is all I use it for.
    
    
12. 3 set of SAE/METRIX/STAR hex keys. - http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-folding-star-bit-and-sae-metric-hex-keys-94905.html : For the odd time you need hex keys.
    
    
13. 2TB HDD (USB 3.0, please) - Available at Newegg, of course. : Used for backing up customer data in the field as necessary.
    
    
14. Headset, plug in type. - On web, at radio shack, etc : Used for testing audio on systems. And keeping the peace.
    
    
15. Fold up tool bag - http://www.harborfreight.com/20-in-rollaway-tool-bag-61925.html : Used to hold your kit.
    
    
16. LAPTOP - Anywhere fine computers are sold : I can't stress this enough. I've been in situations where a tech has FORGOTTEN to bring a laptop, and had to borrow mine. It is SO great to be able to test the internet connection when they say it is down, and to SSH/FTP/Download needed things. GET ONE :D
    
    
17. MOUSE : Nothing sucks more for doing work quickly than a laptop trackpad, IMHO. Also, great for testing USB ports. GET A CHEAP ONE. Don't kill your Logitech G600!
    
    
18. A 2.1 Amp wall charger with at LEAST one USB port. - Available on Web : This can be a life saver!
    
    
19. Various USB charger cables. - Http://www.monoprice.com - Another life saving thing.
    
    
20. A VGA, a DVI, a HDMI, and a DISPLAYPORT cable set - Http://www.monoprice.com : For those days when it MIGHT be the cable.
    
    
21. A small spare LCD panel monitor! - Http://www.newegg.com : For testing those no display systems and laptops.
    
    
22. A spare USB keyboard - Http://www.newegg.com : Pick your fave junker :D
    
    
23. A USB battery pack! - Http://www.monoprice.com or Http://www.amazon.com : This thing has saved me a few times on the road when I forgot...
    
    
24. Cigarette lighter USB charger - Http://www.amazon.com : This thing is wonderful :) Make sure to get a 2 amp one :D
    
    
25. DC to AC car cigarette lighter inverter - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021190 : Yes. Laptops DO run out charge on the road.
    
    
26. A 4G Hotspot - Various wireless cell carriers : There are plenty of job sites without even so much as DIAL UP internet, and you desperately need a driver.
    
    
27. A cellular telephone - Various cellular wireless carriers : Phone calls, boss calls, 911, etc.
    
    
28. Universal laptop charger kit - http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/products/computer-accessories/RF-ACU9025.html - $69.99! I know it seems pricey, but it is honestly GREAT when people have a laptop that CAN'T charge due to missing brick, or WON'T charge and it MIGHT be the brick. Plus, you can leave your MAIN laptop charger at home!
    
    
29. 8GB USB thumb drives - http://www.microcenter.com/product/280099/8GB_USB_20_Flash_Drive: As pointed out, later, they can be obtained from Microcenter Online for $4.99 USD.
    
    
30. A lunch! Be sure to grab your favorite HEALTHIER snacks, like granola bars, REAL fruit juice, water, etc. If it will be a significant stay, be sure to grab sandwiches or lunch meat, bread, and condiments. Also, grab a cooler and 4 ice packs to hold it all and keep it cool. Bacteria BAD!
    
    
31. Pens, pencils, sharpie markers, and WRITABLE TAPE. Also throw in velcro ties for tidying up cables. It's a labor of love in some paces, but clients do appreciate it! Do NOT, however, velcor AC or DC cables together with network cables ;)
    
    
32. Pliers and wire cutters! You never know when something will get stubborn!
    
    
33. GMER on you main thumb drive! - http://www.gmer.net ! :Rootkit detection and removal kit.
    
    
34. HookShark - http://www.woodmann.com/collaborative/tools/index.php/HookShark - HookShark is a detector of installed hooks and patches installed on the system (only usermode for now). It scans through the code-section of every loaded module of each running process and compares it with the file-image. If it detects discrepancies it tries to determine the type of hook or patch and reports it to the user.
    
    
35. http://drp.su/ - DriverPack Solutions. : Download the DVD ISO via bittorrent, and there is a TON of drivers on the image. You do NOT need to use the installer. Just point to the appropriate driver directory and search subfolders. You should be golden.
    
    
36. Technibble support contract package and checklists. - http://www.techinbble.com : A good package of paperwork, covering your but in most cases. Grab it, and edit it for your business name, etc :D It is no longer provided, but there are similar packages :D
    
    
37. Network cable tester from http://www.amazon.com : It cost me $5USD and is a definite help
    
    
38. Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 crimper, Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 ends, boots, and a box of category 5E. : Http://www.amazon.com - This tool, ends, and cable are GREAT for running new cat 5e effectively. The ends are open on both ends, and you can slide the wires through in the proper order, crimp, and trim, all in one shot. Worth the price.
    
    
39. RG6 Quad shielded cable spool, RG6Quad compression fittings, stripper, and compression tool : http://www.homedepot.com - I use compression fittings for cable modem cable runs. I love the weatherproof ones, and they are easy to set up.
    
    
40. A "spudger" - https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iSesamo-Opening-Tool/IF145-130 : This tool is GREAT for popping laptops. Thanks /u/wanderingbilby for reminding me!
    
    41, A flashlight. Preferably, a head mount one will be included, as well as small handheld, and normal sized. I prefer LED ones :D
    
    
41. T shaped Wall Tap (US), 2 to 3 prong adapter (US), and Outlet tester (US) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081A4GEC?pldnSite=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027B3KO8?pldnSite=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X3FSAQ?pldnSite=1 : Heaven forbid, you plug something in of your kit and it POPS :(
    
    ■ EDIT ■
    
    Cleaned up the listings :D
    
    ■ EDIT ■
    
    NOT NECESSARY, but I have it... - I also have, available, a 1U Xeon X3210 server with 8GB of RAM and 2 160GB SATA drives in RAID1 as a "temporary" server if the client has a server go down and needs something up ASAP. I have them sign off that I am NOT responsible for any inadequacies in performance or functionality, it is MY equipment, I will support it 8AM to 9PM for 2 weeks, and at the end of those two weeks, I am taking it back. It is their responsibility to procure a replacement for their down server, and they are responsible for the PHYSICAL well being of my server.
    
    
    
    S/A

I put my intakes towards the top of the bucket and my exhaust fan in the lid. It mostly depends on what type of pot you're going to use. If it fills your bucket then you'll want to have them high enough so the air isn't blocked. If there's some space around it then you could go lower but be sure to leave a little space at the bottom if you plan to make a drainage tray. I planned my bucket with a 3 gallon smart pot in mind so i kept the intakes high enough to not be obstructed. There's a link to my first bucket in my profile as Ekropf was kind enough to put it on spacebuckets.com. I haven't taken pics of my 2nd bucket yet, but it's similar. That site has lots of great pictures and info. If you do end up using an intake fan you'll want to mount it somewhere that doesn't blow directly on the top of your pot as it will dry out the top layer of the medium too quickly so the wet/dry cycle will be tough to maintain.
I can't stress the passive intake enough. I was very much of the opinion that I was going to have 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan but some very good people here pointed me in the right direction before I started building. You can see the thread and comments in my profile. (Hoping I can pass along the knowledge I gained. The people on this subreddit are awesome and helped me immensely.) I was very pleasantly surprised by the pvc elbows. They're only about 80 cents each and since I had already ordered 2 fans I made a 2nd bucket. Also, if odor control is important to you then you'll want to maintain negative pressure in your bucket. Intake fans can lead to positive pressure and air leak whereas passive will guarantee negative pressure. Just Google it if you haven't read about it yet.

Regarding the fans; here's what I bought. They're plug and play for a regular outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OWRMZ6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
I also got lamp dimmers for my fans and they work great. Here's a link but I found them for 7 bucks at a local home store similar to Lowes or Home Depot.
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300NLH-WH-Credenza-Dimmer-White/dp/B0000DI241

I'd recommend getting a temp/humidity weather monitor and try your bucket with 1 fan first. You can always install a 2nd if needed. It's important to check temp/humidity with your pot and medium in the bucket...I found its much different than an empty bucket. Something like this...
http://www.amazon.com/AcuRite-00611A3-Wireless-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B001B35APA

I found cheap bricks of coco at Petsmart. It's also used for bedding/substrate in reptile terrariums. Roughly 6 bucks for 8 quarts...add about 30% perlite or vermiculite and you can easily fill a 2-3 gallon pot.
http://m.petsmart.com/h5/hub?id=/reptile/substrate-bedding/exo-terra-coco-husk-tropical-reptile-terrarium-substrate-zid36-5133039/cat-36-catid-500013?null

Here's what I did for led side lighting and power supply. It's not an absolute must, but definitely helpful from what I've read.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01339F5ZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457338928&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=led+tape+5630&dpPl=1&dpID=512cIyl2inL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01461MOGQ/ref=psdcmw_15704861_t1_B01339F5ZO

If you have any more questions, feel free to pm me. I highly suggest looking through spacebuckets.com though...it'll give you lots of different ideas and you'll be able to see how they work before building your bucket.

Hope this helps!

I'm also an 18 year old American who has travelled alone with another friend through Europe so maybe my tips can help, even though you'll be gone longer than I was:

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Backpacks: When I travel, I tend to take my 21L backpack (I've backpacked through Europe for 12 days and 9 days, and some other places in the states), and have had good luck, although I wish I had a bigger bag, maybe 30-40L, so I can't really help you in what bag to get. For clothes, you could definitely get away with packing for 7 days and just washing them at the hostels.

Electronics: I obviously brought my phone with me, but I also brought an iPad rather than a laptop to cut down on weight since I was lugging my backpack everywhere I went, but if you need to bring your laptop then do it. I brought chargers for my devices as well as a power adapter that allowed me to plug in US wall adapters to European wall sockets. Something like this (that's the worldwide one so you can use it in every country). I also brought some headphones for traveling but that's personal preference.

Anti-Theft: Every time I've been abroad, I've never had issues with pick pockets, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I was fine keeping valuables in an inaccessible pocket in my backpack (like a backside pocket), and my wallet and phone in my front pocket, and I would keep my hands in those pockets if I ever felt like it was necessary. Like I said, I'm also 18 but have never had any issues with theft.

Money: I had a AAA rechargeable debit card, but you can talk to your bank and see their rates for international use. I just used my AAA debit card and withdrew cash from ATMs and paid a small fee (I think $3 USD), so I would look into that if possible. If you're using your bank definitely don't forget to contact them so they don't deny your card, because that would be bad.

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Sorry for writing a mini-novel, but I hope this helped at least a little bit. I know when I first went I didn't really have anyone but YouTubers helping me, but the best thing to do is to just try it out and see what works and doesn't for next time. Have a fun time, Europe is amazing :)

A lot of the $30 - $50 mirrors that are readily available at Walmart, Target etc. are really not that great. They're better than nothing, but that's about it. If she's as into makeup as you say she is, she's going to want something properly bright. If you're looking for a makeup mirror with lights built in already, you're going to have to invest around $80 - $100. Instead, if she already has a mirror, you can just add LED lights around the perimeter, and it works better than most makeup mirrors. Definitely better than the $30-$50 ones.

Here's what I use: this LED strip + this power adaptor. It's super easy to install if she already has a mirror, and it is BRIGHT. It's cheap (around $40CAD), and SUPER functional. I can't recommend it enough. You can probably even get a different adaptor with a switch/dimmer.

1. London is expensive. Go to rightmove.co.uk for all your house searching needs, including to look up property prices. I'll say it again, London is expensive. Central London is like Manhatten, New York for property prices. Unless your wife is to be staggeringly well paid, you'll need to get a place outside the city for anything even remotely liveable at a price that doesn't make your testicles climb back inside you.
   
   A quick look at Richmond shows studio flats starting at £800-900 per month. One bedroom flats starting at £1,100.
   
   
2. Monster, Indeed and Reed are the best websites. Cold calling can't hurt, although many companies have HR goons that want you to go through a certain process that usually starts with an advert in one of those sites. Nobody's going to freak out at you for ringing them up though.
   
   
3. Our Netflix sucks, you can google ways around the regional block to get US Netflux like everyone else does. We have satellite and cable TV that'll give you most shows popular in the US. Sky is basically Fox's UK division, so you'll get anything Fox has (Simpsons and the like). You'll also get the BBC which means a tonne of great content. You do have to pay for a TV licence here though.
   
   You won't get corn dogs, our chocolate is sweeter, there are specialist shops you can buy US snacks if you're desperate.
   
   
4. Not any huge lifestyle changes. We have smaller houses, smaller cars (the island is quite crowded), no guns (including police, although in London with the terror threats you'll likely see anti terror police armed to the teeth). One thing that's a bit of a culture shock is because there's no guns, there's more petty aggression from youths and the like.
   
   Our portion sizes are much smaller. Food and petrol are more expensive. Pubs are an important part of UK culture, we tend to drink more and more often than Americans (or anywhere except Russia, really). Our beers are great.
   
   
5. your mileage may vary, but most Brits have a kind of double face. We can be ranting about hating Americans, then when we meet one we're thrilled. If you can separate the impersonal views of Americans with the personal like of individual Americans, you'll be fine. Don't be surprised to hear someone slagging off Americans before apologising and explaining the don't mean you of course.
   
   
6. use google to look up the best company to deliver "cable" or internet. Sky does great packages which will give you everything. BT and virgin will gives you a more stripped down cable, but good Internet. We don't have the weird regional monopolies the US has, it's the free market here so look for the cheapest and best deal.
   
   
7. you need an adaptor for our 3 pin sockets. Our plugs are the best in the world, but no other country uses them for reasons we find mystifying.
   
   
8. a lot of us are asking the same question about football. You can always fake it.

Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin

Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)

Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.

Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose

90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow

4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer

2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"

Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM

Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller

Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply

Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable

Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)

2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow

Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter

Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan

Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil

Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer

Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)

Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!

I didn't have the dorm experience, but I lived far enough from campus that I would hang out there all day most days.

Quality shoes - you will be walking quite a bit. Depending on your style, consider something like a waterproof hiking shoe that will last through some like snows.

Reusable water bottle that will fit in your backpack well. Sparty's will fill it up, or you can use the drinking fountains.

I'm a fan of some of the /r/edc stuff as well, a small flashlight can be very useful, and shouldn't run over $20.

A small plug splitter, would be very useful. I have a more complicated one, but if I did it again, I'd get this. A lot easier to charge your laptop/phone when you don't have to convince someone to unplug theirs.

Either a collapsible umbrella or packable raincoat.

Extra headphones. I'm lucky enough to have accumulated several pairs of iphone earbuds, so if I lose/break one, I'm still okay.

I bought these after a suggestion from another person on this forum. I didn't think they would work, but WOW, it made a huge difference. Brightened my area unbelievably good. First link is the LED lights. Second link is the adapter to be able to plug it in.

I just wrapped mine around the inside of my window.

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Strip Lights, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r-dzybVRAW2Y5

LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ObezybTYECE37

/u/DrkMith Your post is super clear, and incredibly helpful. Yes, I do run the fan on occasion for circulation. That add-a-wire device seems like magic; very cool and handy and seems like my best option. I watched the video, it's within my capabilities I believe. If you've installed them before, any advice or watchouts?

One other note, if all I need is the C wire to the nest to get the setup to work, could I instead use a 24vac transformer connected to a normal outlet? Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_Im6QDbHZ0Y450

Thank you for your expertise on this.

I followed the Ikea LACK build, with my own mods.

I don't live near an IKEA, so I bought two end tables @ $8/ea, but ended up paying $26 total after shipping. I then purchased $60 in plexi, but used corrugated plastic for the back panel since it's significantly cheaper and the white background reflects more light on the print bed. It's basically the stuff that political yard signs are made out of (if that makes sense). I printed standoffs / brackets to hold the plexiglass (see Thingiverse), $14 in brackets & board for the side shelf. The lights were about $45, using this, this, & this. I put the LED strips on aluminum channel, but that really could have been skipped. I just had some from a previous project.

Because I went "full nerd", I used an arduino & temperature sensor to create a temperature controlled fan, with LED control panel (designed & printed bracket), and used sketch-up to build an exhaust housing very similar to this one, except for a 120mm fan. I don't have a filter on the enclosure now, and to be honest, 90% of the time, the fan is off. But I wanted to be able to place a charcoal filter on the exhaust fan for ABS, so I planned ahead. I'm going to tie my OctoPi to the Arduino and trigger the fan on high after a print ends to cool the enclosure down faster so I can pull parts off the glass bed sooner.

I'll guess my all-up price was about $200. It could have been done for probably $130 without the arduino & lighting tom foolery.

Other mods pictured are the printed Z-axis braces on the printer itself, this fan shroud on the control box (because the stock fan is a joke), and the aforementioned borosilicate glass print bed.

Until you have an enclosure sorted, even surrounding the printer on 3 sides with cardboard proved to be a huge step in the right direction for me. It proved that yeah, I really do want an enclosure.

i think they were just kidding, but seriously, these are great. as i'm in the middle of a build right now, i have to ask: have you had any luck with the kastar PSU or is there one you recommend more? this is the one I've got in my cart at the moment but if you think the one you linked would be better i'd save a couple bucks. thanks for your wiring diagram, btw!

I went to amazon and ordered these lights and this adaptor. I haven't gotten them in yet, but I'll let you know what I think of them when they do. They seem pretty straight forward but you never know with these kind of things haha.

As for preference of white vs warm (yellow), I used christmas lights and a white fluorescent lamp as different backlighting to see which I liked more. I picked the white because I felt it had a more mysterious/ night time feel (just my opinion haha), but all the Hari and Deepti ones use yellow light so it's all up to personal preference. Post pictures of yours when you finish! I'd love to see how it turns out! :)

I'm going to just put some add'l info in this thread for now. I have a couple of photos - 1 and 2 - of my propane burner under my roaster (as it is so far). You'll note that the roaster legs are sitting on blocks to get the flue over the top of the burner. My actual set-up will probably make use of a metal cart similar to this one. The burner will fit down in the top and I will have a non-combustable countertop (granite or marble sections, perhaps) that the roaster will sit on - on the top lip of that cart. The grill bottle can ride on the shelf below. I can build a shelf that will stick out the side (or fold down or sumpin') that can be affixed to the underside of the top shelf. That will be for the laptop that will be running Artisan-Scope. This is the high torque motor I got. I got the 70 rpm (no-load) model hoping that under load it would be closer to the 50-55 rpm that is sort of standard for drum roasters. IF I still need to slow it down more, I will need to incorporate some kind of potentiometer/rheostat between the power supply and the motor. (I'm no electrical engineer, so I will need to find a little help on that part. Hint Hint!) Just today I ordered a 5.5x2.5 female no-solder, screw terminal for painlessly going between the power supply and the motor. Besides the convenience of not having to solder, I can simply reverse the wires if I want to reverse the motor rotation. (Knowing me, I would have soldered them the opposite of what I wanted the first time.) I probably won't be making substantive progress on this for another week or two, so may need to start a different thread when the next leap in progress occurs.
A couple of other pieces of information... be sure to check out the comment by u/loki154 below on simwool. Was not previously aware of that stuff. Could be great for a wood burning pizza oven project that I'm dreaming of, in addition to this project. Also, ChingThye Gan, the maker of the Instructable that was my inspiration suggested "oven glass door glue" to me for affixing my fused-silica quartz sight glass disk to my dump door. Haven't ordered that yet, but sounds like a winning idea. Another tip is to look at ceramic kiln parts when you are building a roaster. (Similar high temperature applications.) I found some flexible aluminum (expandable from 2-1/2' to 15 ft) of "kiln vent duct" that I may use (with adapters) to go between my roaster and my traffic cone chaff collector. Terms used on this page might be used to find it cheaper (or possibly an even smaller diameter?) elsewhere via Google-Fu. Finally, I'm considering making a change in the latches I will use to hold the lid on. The search term you will want to use is: Stainless Steel Draw Pull Catch. This will eliminate one of the few zinc pieces on my design. Hope some of this helps somebody in the future!

Hey there! Sorry that this is happening to you. While I agree with others, it makes no sense that that using your fan wire as a common fixed your issue - But it did! So that's great news for now.

For the record, I have had clients before tell me your same exact story - Their Nest suddenly needed a common after years of it working perfectly. Whether it's due to a surprise update, power outage, or strange anomaly - don't worry, others have been in your shoes. Just another quirk that comes with having the Nest.

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• Here is an adapter of sorts that you were looking for (Plug in outlet common maker): https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV/
  
  ​
  
  
• Here is another option (add -a-wire at the air handler): https://www.amazon.com/FAST-STAT-Common-Thermostat-Extender-Connection/dp/B01N6ERM04/
  
  ​
  
  The "plug in" common wire is by far the easiest method, however you'll have to be creative on how you'll hide the wiring. Hope this helps!

About your Cons. (1) I know it's not the same, but you can control the switches using Tasker, Send/Expect Tasker Plugin & AutoRemote Tasker Plugin. Let me know if you'd like the links for how to do so and I'll dig them up for you :) (2) I know it's not ideal, but if you're concerned about the second outlet not being available (which many people are, and for good reason) you can always opt for something like this outlet adapter from Amazon. This one in particular would work well because the plugs are sideways, meaning the tp-link plug won't be hogging the other outlet. Plus, you'll get an additional spot or two for small-plugged appliances such as lamps.

This isn't the exact one OP used, but outlets like this are indeed UL listed for face-up installation, and are specifically marked as a "furniture power distribution unit" to satisfy code. So what OP did is perfectly legal as far as NFPA is concerned.

Your concerns are valid, but your assertion about legality is incorrect...assuming the specific device OP used is properly marked and listed.

Yes.

I have run with multiple computers in a rackmount up through the floor to multiple monitors & a TV for ages, as in since 2004. Currently have it down to one PC and up to 9 monitors and no TV. Never any issues, and the silence is wonderful.

15' video cables are inexpensive at monoprice, DVI, DisplayPort, VGA, whatever you need. Longer are available if needed as well. More so for DVI and HDMI, less so for DisplayPort.

15' USB 2.0 cables work fine as well, plug in a powered hub at your desk. Plug into that your keyboard, mouse, and a USB DAC (USB sound card essentially for good quality sound) $8 cheap to $140/$150 expensive, or use a 15' audio cables as well. Hookup a USB CD/DVD drive as well if you really use it that often, I never do, so a short walk is in order on rare occasion. These are the hubs I'm using currently, they work a treat. They have a built in cable so a USB A/A extension cable is all that's needed which also gives a bit more distance than the extension length you go with.

If you need to hard power cycle the box for some reason take a walk, or hookup a cheap remote AC power outlet switch (used for lamps and such) such as this or this, cost about $15 at home improvement stores, and set the BIOS to always power on after power loss. Kill power with remote, unit goes off, power on with remote, unit boots up fresh.

Any other questions ask or send me a PM.

Thanks, I had my order coming in today anyway I ordered this set from amazon as they had next day delivery for it, so I will have it in few hours!

But for future projects I see the value in your ez hook - looks like the build quality is way better might last longer, is it rubberized outside?

Something like this should get you there, if they don't allow surge protectors on board. I'd see if you can find out if their plugs are three prong or two though.

IIRC, there's a newer Juul-type of device that allows for filling the pods with your own juice but I'll be buggared if I can remember the name! But something like that would be nice when strolling the Lido Deck! Enjoy the vacation!

Thanks so much! I highly recommend these LED strips. They're paper thin so they bend easily at the corners of a detolf. You'll need this adapter for the power.

My only complaint about them is that they're a little too bright at first. You get used to them though! You can't beat this nice even white lighting and the ease of installation.

I'll link the full order:

• LED light strip
  
• LED light strip power connector 8mm
  
• L-shape LED strip connector
  
• DC power adapter
  
• DC cable extension
  
• DC switch
  
• DC cable splitter
  
  I am not 100% happy with the light strip I got. They are super sensitive to the power draw and flickers time to time(maybe it's the power adapter =/). Though, it's cheap and does its job pretty well!
  
  [EDIT] correcting the led power connect as opinted out by /u/BishoujoReview
  
  [EDIT] flickering was due to an old extension cord. I plugged the power adapter directly to the wall outlet and that solved the problem.

My wife and I use this for our international travels and it works pretty well. I would recommend it heavily because it really does work well, we've used in Iceland, UK, Netherlands, and Hong Kong. Pretty much everything you need USB power for will run off this or that one you are looking at now.

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

Not trying to persuade you one way or the other, but you might just want to take a look at what is involved using the adapter. It's very simple if you go that route. Here's a link to one on amazon. This is the one I bought:

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV?ref_=nav_ya_signin&

To be honest though, I'd probably go with the programmable thermostat except I like the remote sensors with the ecobee and also being able to monitor the temperature when I'm not at home because I'm paranoid like that!

Usually this won't be a problem unless plugging an extremely excessive amount of power into it, it should be able to handle the 4000w extension, but if you want the security of knowing 100% this it will be able to handle it, this should work:
http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Ekr0QgKPL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Y3G2M76HB92VBEFKJAY

The only difference is it doesn't support US to EU, just US to UK, and it's higher quality, I hope this helped, best of luck!

Sure first here's the LED strips, Power Adapters, and Dimmer. Looks like they've gone up in price a bit since I did it but it's still not too bad. I didn't take any in progress pictures so I'll just have to describe how setup went. The LED strips come with a sticky back side so I just stuck that to the poles on the front side of the Detolf. I used 1 LED strip, 1 dimmer, and 1 power adapter per 2 Detolfs but you could also use 1 strip per Detolf. This will give you more even lighting, and the power adapter should still be able to handle powering 2 fine, you'd just need to also buy a connector for the 2 strips. After you've got the stuff its as simple as just taping on the stip in a |‾| running from the outside poles and across the top of the Detolf, running the power cord outside of it through the gap in the door, and the plugging in the dimmer.

I looked through all the comments so I'm pretty confident this hasn't been mentioned yet.

Something I always travel with is an outlet converter and a small portable power strip.

This combo really come in handy when you need to use more than one outlet at once (charge a phone, laptop, and digital camera battery, etc.), especially if you're traveling with another person.

I have both of the items linked, and neither take up much room in my carry on luggage (I have an Osprey Porter 46). They're easy to tuck away in a nook, and the power strip's prongs fit into itself, eliminating bulk.

These could go really well the the battery pack many have suggested. Gotta keep all those devices juiced up!

Here is one on Amazon. It's worth noting that if you are charging a phone or a camera battery that's post-2005 or so, you only need to use the adapter plugs. Advanced electronics don't need the actual converter.

On the other hand, a hairdryer, clippers, and other less advanced stuff will need the converter box thing. When I was studying abroad overseas (before wifi was everywhere and before I had a smartphone), I just bought a clock and hairdryer and then left it there at my host parents' house. And [gasp] used payphones with a calling card :)

Chainreactions was selling these super cheap and I'm betting he bought one from them because I did the same :).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NND600/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You just need one of those or look around and see if you have a cable that fits, it uses a pretty common one. I bought the converter but ended up finding a cord from an old printer that fit. And yes it works with 110v.

Do this instead. Use an adapter (not converter) and one of these expanders: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UE7SC8/

I’ve been traveling the world for 9 months (24 countries and counting) using this and it works like a charm. Everything you plug into it needs to have its own converter (most modern electronics chargers like cell phones, etc, and any brick plug with a “100-240v” on it should be fine.)

Never plug a hair iron or similar heat-producing device into this setup. Those always need a converter.

Also recommend a usb charging hub like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VH8G1SY/ With the 3-prong expander and this you can charge multiple USB devices and have room to plug in a non-usb charger. This can handle 100-240v.

You will need an induction heater

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALTHK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need a power supply

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01461MOGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Technically that's really all you need. You could wire the leads to the induction heater and plug it in and it will be on. But I don't think anyone likes the idea of leaving this thing plugged in and always on. Which is why most users will choose some sort of switch set up. For my induction heater I used this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D373HZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Several users have pretty in-depth full guides. I think the best and most clear one out right now is this one https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/c94dxj/diy_induction_heater_guide/

Unless you plan to be camping in the wilderness for most of your trip, you're probably better off bringing a universal power plug adapter like this one. It's really small and light and much easier to carry around than a solar panel. As long as your USB battery pack and power converter support the voltages in those countries, you don't need a voltage converter. (Almost all USB power converters these days support 100-240V, so you are probably fine, but check to make sure so you don't start a fire or burn out your transformer or device.)

Great, thanks!

Do you think the one you sent would work better or this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UE7SC8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2

(quick note that the power cord is 2 prong)

>Going to volunteer with special needs people in your southweaterly region.

Fair fucks to ya.

>Tipping practices

It's at your discretion. For taxis, breakfast and lunch; I usually just round the bill off and leave the change. If I'm eating out at night, I'd add 10% to the bill. Staff should be getting paid at least €8.65 which is minimum wage here, so less reliant on tips compared to the US.

>what to do

Have a look at /r/irishtourism there is a wealth of information there.

>what to avoid

Entering into discussion about the current situation in Gaza. Apart from that, just be you.

>Other than replacing all of my cables with your weird plug

Get yourself one of these bad boys ya mad thing. No need to be replacing all your plugs.

>I am still incredibly surprised by the fact that Irish is a language. I assumed English was basically the only language youse guys have.

Outside of pockets(Gaelteacht areas), it pretty much is for the majority of the population. Sign up for some Irish classes if you're interested. It's a beautiful language and a good way of meeting new people.

Enjoy your time here.

> Any tips re: where I can find these two different thickness locks you are referring to?


I don't think locks come in specific sizes. Here's the two I had: http://i.imgur.com/FyD1aQ0l.jpg

> I saw you're tripod charging thing, brilliant idea. Where can I find one of those?

http://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Wall-Adapter-Shaped-Prong/dp/B0081A4GEC

> Packing cubes: yours looked great, where can I find those?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=packing+cubes

> I will reach out with more questions as they come.

I think yours has the double doors? I had a 16-18 gun cabinet with a single door. The door was the perfect width for this Molle seat back panel. I had to cut a corner for the lock mechanism and had it sewed by a local custom leather shop. Then I drilled and used rivets to attach it to the door. I have another cabinet that I added plywood shelves to. I just used double stick tape to stick plywood to the sides, then put a shelf on top, then stick on 2 more sides, then another shelf and repeat.

It sounds like you're going overboard on lighting. I just outfitted my new safe residential security cabinet with LED strips. The safe is 40" wide, 72" tall and 25" deep. I bought this two-pack of LED strips and this power adapter and a this 5-way power splitter. I installed one full strip minus 6 inches around the perimeter of the door, and I didn't need any more. I added a loop around the sides and top at the back of the safe only because I had a second strip of LEDs, not because it was necessary.

Edit: I know it's impossible to judge brightness in a photo, but here's two I took of my safe. The single strip of LEDs facing away from the door provide sufficient light. The LEDs around the back edge add a ton of light, but the glare from looking at the LEDs cancels out a lot of the added brightness.

here

I made sure to get the 3000k as they're a warmer softer light, as well as waterproof. I got myself one power adapter per box (each box was a single piece, so I ordered to strands of lights).

The lights are adhesive backed, but adhesives in the enclosure are a big no no, so I just used the adhesive to hold em in place while I placed them, and then siliconed them into place for good.

The lights are cool cause you can wire multiples together with available adapters and connectors. The strands come with a couple adapters too. But no power supply, so make sure you get one, or something equivalent.

Also, I wrapped the lights around the upper perimeter of my boxes, but they're definitely bright enough that I'm considering taking about 1/4 out. They're not overly bright, but it's more of a personal opinion, but my snakes don't seem to mind them. So you may not need more than one strand, depending on how much light you want in the enclosure.

Here and
here. I had to cut about a foot off the end because if was slightly too long, but very nice and easy to use.

This is the one they sell for it, I don't think I'd have anything appropriate on hand. But thanks :)

This one works wonderfully, and at a great price (~$10)

OP could also use the Viltrox with an AC adapter to run on a power bank with an AC outlet like this one. The 24,000 mAh one would probably run a Viltrox for 10 hours, and the 40,200 mAh version would almost certainly well exceed that.

EDIT: Based on reviews, this one would probably be better.

I got [these lights] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with [this power adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from Amazon. The lights are sticky on the back. What I did was run it up the front corner on the left, across the top, and down the front corner on the right. It does a pretty decent job of lighting everything up. I can take a picture when I get home if you like.

Yeah I have something like that but there are power outlets right by the lights and I want to avoid running extension cords all over the place for just the two plugs that are out of reach.. I'm looking at something more like this but maybe better quality
http://www.amazon.com/DSI-Outlet-Wireless-Remote-Outlets/dp/B000G80V28

14/2 NMB is only rated for 15 amps, so the 20 amp outlets are against code.

if it's 14/2 NMB, acting as an appliance cord, that's also against code, and probably looks like crap.

if the whole mess is plugged into a 15 amp GFCI, he's unlikely to burn anything down.

the upstream GFCI, that the table plugs into, protects all subsequent downstream receptacles.

​

you absolutely can install your own outlets into furniture, but i would recommend going with a pre-made package, such as https://www.amazon.com/Kungfuking-Desktop-Grommet-2-Socket-Extension/dp/B01N531NK1/

​

if your friend has a DIY bug that won't quit, he at least needs to use a correct appliance cord VS NMB, and match the amp rating of the plug to the cord, and to the receptacle which will be feeding it.

/not an electrician

I've seen a few of those and honestly was wondering if they'd work on any thermostat. I've found ones like this https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549852751&sr=8-3&keywords=c+wire+adapter and wondered if I could possibly use it on, say, a Nest thermostat like this one https://www.amazon.com/Nest-T3007ES-Thermostat-Temperature-Generation/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549842584&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+thermostat&vas=%7B%27vw%27%3A%27B01E4FWXY2%27%7D or any other thermostat that required the use of a C wire to operate.

Id say maybe make sure one of the pants is a nice normal looking one that you can pair with the shirt for a nice date night, so many places you would want to do that.


I'd prefer an extra shirt and underwear or two just so I don't have to deal with the washing, weight is low enough that it was worth it for me, space has never been a concern, I personally travel with 5 tshirt and undies, but many people travel with just 2 pairs.


Do you really need the vest when you have the hoodie and down jacket and rain shell?


Compact alternative for power strip: a 3 way power splitter, combine with a 1ft extension cord for a more compact power strip that can also deal with bulky wall warts better.

The Amazon ones claim 360 on the package. I'd trust the 270 degree ones more I think, although it would be fun to dissect one to see how sturdy the power busses are.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000VWC27G/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_2?ie=UTF8&index=2

Am I seeing correctly that this is a wood-burning furnace with electric backup? That's fun- I don't often see those around here (western PA, USA)!


Personally, I get a little nervous about splicing in wires to control boards without photos. It *looks* like you should be ok in this case, but it might be better to just use a plug-in 24V transformer (~$15 USD) https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV

You could get something like this, open up the remote control and wire it up to your PC on/off switch. Easy as cake.
Edit: if you put your PC to sleep, maybe you could wire up your reset switch to the remote? Or just use the actual remote.. lol

I've used a 12V power supply for a motorized curtain project. Something like this should suffice depending on your motor (though if you're using a motor that draws too much current for that power supply it's probably way overpowered). You can run the arduino off of it too, just run the 12V to Vin and ground to ground. You could also use something like this to control the motor, might be easier than making a circuit out of transistors.

Better - bring one of these small enough it's in my laptop bag - I've even gone so far as to rip the ground off the male end , and this allows me to plug in almost anywhere, coffee shops, airports even in meetings around the office - and it's a great conversation starter - "Oh can I plug in?"

It seems you just need an adapter for your laptop. Most laptop power supplies can take "100-240v", however, to be on the safe side check the power supply on your laptop and make sure you see "100-240v".

Regarding an adapter, in North America there is very little demand. However, in the UK power adapters are quite easy to find since most visitors to the UK have your problem.

You can easily get an adapter off amazon.co.uk:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/US-UK-Plug-Travel-Adaptor/dp/B0006OFKNC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1313651025&sr=1-1

You may want to consider getting an European adapter for your travels too.

The best I can think of is something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DXWPHS

with one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VL4CFC

> If I go through and buy the 710 14 on the US site there shouldn't be any difference other than the adapter?

Not really.

But be aware that Lenovo doesn't offer an international warranty. Even if the Lenovo Yoga 710 14 is available in Australia, they might not service a US unit in Australia if something fails.

> I was looking at the adapters they sell on the AUS store but wasn't sure which one I would buy IF I bought the 710 on the US site.

Couldn't you just buy one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Australia-China-Adapter-Plug/dp/B008Y8PSWA

> I like the Dell a lot. Comparing to the 710 do you think it's better and worth the money?

It's not better. It's more or less the same. Specs and build quality is comparable. It's just that you have something that is bought local, thus also something with a local warranty.

> I was curious about whether I can just use my electronic appliances using converters

If you want to run your 110V devices here you will need a Step Down Transformer like this one. That's the cheapest one, $120 for 120 Watts. They do have larger ones, up to 1000 Watts. You need to check out how much power your appliance will use, and buy one with at least that amount.

Of course, if your device can handle 230V then you would just need to buy an adapter like this one

I can't answer your question definitively, but I can offer an alternative that worked well for me.

My motto when it comes to this stuff is to keep it simple, especially when it comes to electricity.

If she can get a regular extension cord, then plug in one of these, which you could then plug the E27 x2 adapter into.

Hope this helps :)

I ended up splurging for the CH341A programmer with SOIC8 clip for a whopping $9.98 shipped, flashed the latest SeaBIOS for Acer C720 'PEPPY', and installed GalliumOS 3.0 from a 2.0 GB SD card. This is me typing away on that very same machine, back from the dead and zippier than ever before. The only hickups were that I needed to build flashrom from scratch, because the version on my Linux box was kinda old and Mr Chromebox's complained about a missing libpci.so.3 library, that the flashing came back with a verification error the first time, and that GalliumOS wouldn't connect to WiFi until the installation was complete and the system clock was corrected, but that's still what I consider smooth sailing. I understand that ChromeOS cannot be run anymore with this BIOS, but that's fine with me, since Google considers the machine EOL anyway.

I'm a happy camper now. Thanks everyone for pitching in!

They provide enough light but aren't super bright, I do have the option of putting another strip across (I only used half) to make it brighter but 1 should be enough. You can't beat the price: LEDs and Power Source . I originally was going to hold them up by zip ties, but the backing is sticky enough to stay on the wire shelf. I'm not sure how well it will stand up in the future but for now it's great.

LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RZ4dAbA6SN1AR

And

LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f04dAbKTW24T6

This is one made by an Australian company.
https://www.macgear.com.au/products/satechi-usb-3-0-headphone-stand
or
https://www.macfixit.com.au/bluelounge-posto-universal-headphone-stand-black/
I would also suggest that it may be easier just to buy an adapter if you want more options.
https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Australia-China-Adapter-Plug/dp/B008Y8PSWA

Hope this helps.

The product page says a 24w power consumption, so aiming for a 36w or larger power supply would be a good idea, something like this would work just fine.

Ok just making sure. Call the maintenance guy for the apartement complex and see if he can help you get it sorted. My guess is that you have a standard R and W wire (no idea which is which without seeing the boiler). If you need a C wire, you're going to need to have a plug in transformer.

Big shout out to the /u/beasthoss guide in the sidebar. Worked like a charm first time. Induction heating really makes the already awesome dynavap experience even better. All parts used are listed below for anyone interested. I did use some t-taps I had laying around but no solder.

Induction Heating Module

Power Supply

Glass Adapter

Momentary Switch

Project Enclosure

Drill Bit

Edit for parts list.

Thanks! I got one from Amazon but it doesn't look like it's the right size as my Gledopto controller. Can you help?


This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If your flight is on time (which it rarely is at LAX), you might get outta there at 1:30-2:00 p.m. if you want to get to Santa Monica / Venice like other redditors have suggested. If you take public transportation, it'll probably take you an hour to get there -- plus you'll have to haul your luggage around. And because LAX is so busy and full of delays, you'll want to get back to the airport by 6:00 p.m. so you'll have to hop on the bus by 5:00 p.m. That gives you two hours at the beach. You can decide whether it's worth it to you.

Also worth noting: LAX also has like zero outlets for charging up. The outlets they do have usually require you to sit on the filthy floor near a pillar. And the wifi sucks. Also, public transportation is also terrible, so you might need to add some padding to the transit estimations above.

If you decide to stay at the airport, I would recommend loading up your machine with videos you buy on iTunes or some DVDs or something (so you don't have to rely on spotty wifi for Netflix) and then buying one of these things so that you're guaranteed an outlet ("Hey, mind if I unplug you to use this little contraption so we can both win!" Never fails).


Edit: Clarified that I was talking about getting to Santa Monica / Venice.

I think your problem is the C wire... per your comment you have RC/W/Y/G... you need a C.

If your unit has a C terminal but unused, you can use the adapter ecobee's include to make a 4 wire system work. If not, then you might need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511237224&sr=8-3&keywords=c++wire+adapter

in addition to the adapter ecobee includes to give you power. Then treat that as your C... I haven't personally done this, maybe someone here can give you more feedback.

Are you talking about the power supply for the Charsoon charger in the UAVFutures video? If so I also had the issue you have (as well as another issue where it killed one of my batteries by not balancing properly) I bought this power supply to replace the cheapo one it came with : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/

I pretty much immediately upgraded to an iCharger 106b+ though and only use the Charsoon as a battery tester. It's much nicer having something that can parallel charge and discharge as well as be more reliable to not kill my batteries.

Awesome thanks! I actually saw a perfect one in the recommended items section: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XAD316KK676BG96HAEJ5

Yours looked good too but I'd be concerned at how loose the swiveling outlets are - the air freshener is an oil heater so I wouldn't want it to swivel sideways at some point.

Anyway I found what I was looking for so thanks so much!

Our house has every single outlet with the ground prong facing up. It is the first house I've ever lived in that has them that way and I hate it. It drives me nuts. I've replaced the one in the laundry room with a rotating receptacle in order to use it at all due to clearance. I've had to make sure to purchase plug-in refresheners that have rotating plugs (pretty much Febreeze and only Febreeze, which are expensive as hell, and yeah I know they are supposedly fire hazards). Almost every flat extension cord you can find expects the ground pin on the bottom, so I have to deal with the one behind the couch pointing up and unnecessarily straining the cord.

Every Kill-A-Watt and timer I have expects the ground pin on bottom, so I have to deal with every display, every text, every read-out being upside down. One of these days, I'm going to reorient every one of them.

I get the ground-makes-contact-first argument, but I think it's unsubstantiated hogwash. The probability is just too low. I don't keep boxes of paperclips, staples, or sheet metal near outlets where they can fall from directly above onto exposed prongs. Plus, the 2014 NEC mandated AFCIs in all branch circuits feeding dwelling unit rooms, not just bedrooms. So there is better protection in new construction from the get-go. If we stood to gain anything appreciable in terms of safety, the NEC would have already made the ground-pin-up orientation mandatory.

Edit: add links

LED strip lights are a great and cheap way to light up a mirror! This is a picture of my current vanity setup: http://imgur.com/HODyWkh

The whole setup should run you under $25 on amazon:

http://smile.amazon.com/Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Non-waterproof-Lighting/dp/B00HSF65MC?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

http://smile.amazon.com/HitLights-Light-Connector-Extension-Single/dp/B00L1MFRY0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 (click the '10-pk gapless connectors' on that link)

http://smile.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

Thanks for all y'all's input! I've got an ecobee3 lite and I'm going to try the 'repurpose G wire as C wire' tactic this evening (we never use the fan independently of the furnace -- pretty sure my wife is unaware that's even an option).

​

In the event that doesn't work, my plan is to supply 24V to the thermostat with one of these (which quite conveniently includes a wiring diagram in the product images).

​

mad props to this blog post that linked the 24V power supply and goes into a little greater detail.

​

quick disclaimer: I am not the author of that blog, nor am I qualified to be offering wiring advice.

I understand what you're asking for, u/vm_x2a_nix. To clarify for other users: the wall box in your room is installed horizontally so the nightlight is sideways, and you want a switched receptacle in your daughter's room.

This will handle the receptacle in your bedroom, and this is your solution for your daughter's room without having to run any new Romex.

Hope this helps.

I'm not sure since it is so new. If you can take it back to the store that's probably your best option on getting a new board. This would be to save a possible rma and downtime while you wait on ASUS reps. The cost of the item is like 12 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Organizer-EEPROM-CH341A-Programmer-Module/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ITD2T6C0D9D5&keywords=ch341a&qid=1563824279&s=gateway&sprefix=ch3%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-1

i've used it 3 times now to fix bad flashes

flashrom is free and works in linux (off of a live usb even) you just have to get the chip clip on the legs properly which isn't super ez but can be done with a little fiddling.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y06x1f22B0&t=601s

If you're just trying to maximize outlet space, something like this cube tap would be light, since there's no cord.

(2 prong version)

hard plastic ones are generally lighter than the rubber ones, you can generally find these at hardware stores, though the shapes vary.

(Edit: as a note,, sometimes with the horizontal shape, the plugs are too close together to fit multiple plugs, cube version can sometimes help that).

Lots of cheap & easy options like u/Freedom95 referenced: https://www.amazon.com/slp/light-socket-to-plug-adapter/gmtayufhb75x6de

More expensive all-in-one option if you don't have room for your USB charger in the light fixture: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EPC102A

I like bringing a power splitter just to charge my phone, in case all the outlets are full. Though it's not as bad as 5 years ago.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/

Don't wear a lot of accessories. You have to remove them all during security. Also bring comfortable shoes. Sometimes my feet swell due to the high altitude and it's such cramped seating that it's hard to stretch.

And if you're on a smaller two engine plane you may experience more turbulence (shaking and tiny sudden drops).

It also gets pretty cold in flight, regardless if where you're going. I like to bring a zip up hoodie because it's easier to put on than a sweater. Also the air is very dry. They have lotion in the tiny bathrooms, but I prefer to bring my own. I'll even put vaseline in my nose because it's so dry.

If you're bringing shampoo bottles or other liquids, store the bottles in a ziploc bag. The high altitude may cause them to burst the lid and leak everywhere. Before storing, I like to squeeze out all the air in the bottles and then cap them so there's less air to expand. It doesn't always work though because some lids aren't as air tight as they should be.

If you think you will use the bathroom a lot or don't mind getting up with other people have to use it, get the aisle seat. If you think you will be fine or don't like to be bothered to move, get the window seat. The seats are so damn cramped, it's unavoidable waking someone when you have to use the bathroom, especially since all the chairs are leaned back. If you're taller than 5'8", try to sit at the emergency exits, they usually have more leg room.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0P2GLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have like 3 of these - there is a cylindrical zippable mesh bag they all fit into, and they weight nearly nothing.

I know I have no need to adapt voltage, just plugs

I’ve installed many Nests in two wire only heating systems. Unless you have multiple zones, you have a very low chance of needing a common wire installed.

However, if installing a new bundle of wires is something you don’t want to do or don’t have the money for, here is another solution:
24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Emerson Smart WiFi Thermostat by Fyve Global | 25 ft Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/

Thank you for the response, @dapala1

​

Yes, the two black wires are from the 24V transformer C wire adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve/dp/B075PN6NCV

​

If I tape up the other black wire, the ecobee will not turn on. Should I try something different?

Looks like you have everything you need..should be able to use pek


Or you get one of these

24 Volt Transformer, C-Wire Power Adapter for Nest Honeywell Emerson Sensi, Nest Hello Skybell Smart WiFi Thermostat and Doorbell Power, 25 ft Cable by Fyve Global https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mshRDb7B8FXEX

There are never enough power outlets at conferences, especially IT ones. You'd think they'd realize that a large chunk of their attendees have multiple gadgets that will need charging between sessions, sobring a power strip or splitter. I have one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UE7SC8) in my laptop bag, and it is awesome for conferences and airports, it is a cube about an inch on a side that splits out to three power outlets.

Get something like this. And plug in like you do at home.

http://www.amazon.com/MAXAH%C2%AE-Protector-Universal-Worldwide-Charger/dp/B00E0FZSQC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405793055&sr=1-1&keywords=adapter

Well there's always something like this: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8?ie=UTF8&keywords=multiple%20outlet&qid=1465347497&ref_=sr_1_4&sr=8-4

or one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/QICENT-SC-4A5U-US-WH-Protector-Protection-Appliances/dp/B00XMON80A?ie=UTF8&keywords=thin%20outlet%20extension%20cord&qid=1465347594&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I have a Fisher and Paykel Icon CPAP machine. It has a clock/alarm built in. Fantastic for travel.

Edit: also if you travel with CPAP a 3 way plug takes up no space at all and will fit anywhere unlike a power strip.

I mounted these above my workbench, they're super brightL

http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Lumens-Non-waterproof/dp/B00JQV6Q4I

and then you just need a power adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8

I mounted them facing down, behind a piece of wood so i see the lights directly.

This is what I got.
https://www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B013C2U09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oCdsybMS72SB8
https://www.smile.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eDdsybYH0EKW5

They don't have ones that are specifically white -> red but what you could do is buy addressable RGB LED strips and use a controller to do that. Adafruit would be a good place to start. https://www.adafruit.com

If you don't mind an external transformer near the thermostat, you can just buy this:

https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV

The wires from the transformer go into Rc and C. Your current wires go into Rh and W. I did this for my parents. Works amazing.

LED light strips come in 16ft portions and you can cut them to whatever size you want. They are also very cheap!

LED STRIP HERE

110VAC to 12VDC ADAPTER HERE

they plug right in and are super cheap to replace.

How can I control a 330mAp, 12VDC LED strip from running off a 12V DC5A power supply from a pi model 3?

I am able to power the LEDs connected to the power source via a bread board, however I have not yet figured out gpio pin control. I have considered a physical relay (too loud) and a tip120 transistor (potentially gets too hot).

Thanks!

Power strip

LEDs

And here are the details of my build.

The basic circuit is:

[power brick positive] -----> [switch] --------> [Induction module] ----------> [power brick negative]

Here is the list of purchased parts I used:

• 5A rated Momentary switch
  
• 12V 5A power brick, with screw terminal adapter
  
• 5V-12V ZVS induction heating module
  
• Glass taper adapter
  
  The items I had laying around are a mason jar (cleaned with new lid), 18 gauge speaker wire, and ferrule crimps.
  
  The wire is cut to length, stripped ~1/8" (3mm) at each end, a ferrule is crimped on each end, and then inserted into the screw terminal. The ferrule is not mandatory, but it provides a more secure connection that bare wires, and I think its important to include when many people on this sub do not have background working with circuits.

Run the line out of your keezer and to the inkbird temp controller. If its the Itc-308, get a Grounded 3-outlet tap and plug the freezer and the fan into the cooling side.
Then the fan will turn on only when the freezer is running.

ok cool it says 100-240 so i can use that one u linked right

https://postimg.org/image/n08y2136j/

or this one
https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600

Power strips will get confiscated if they have surge protectors. They may even get confiscated if they don't, because of overzealous security people who have been told to take anything with a switch. I use one of these if I need more outlets.

GE Wall Tap

The 6-power USB charging station would work well and is basically what I carry with me. I'm just partial to the Anker brand:

Anker 6-Port USB Charger

Newer ships may have 2 110v outlets, and will have multiple USB ports.

Yes, standard 12v 3A with proper polarity from a reputable brand should work just fine.

/u/MattAces posted this one in a previous thread, I haven't confirmed this one would work or not, though.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3owhybBPVHBRM

AC Adapter

The gfci should pop and turn off the electricity to the power strip if it shorts, but I’m not positive. Should be okay I think, I do it. Or get something like this GE 3 Plug, Wall Tap, Adapter, Grounded Access Design, Indoor Use Only, UL Listed, White, 58368 Outlet adatper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UE7SC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A.G2BbHTQVRGH

The enclosure I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AyhxDbV7EHBCN

The 5A power supply (5A and you don't have to use a mosfet): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GzhxDbQWPT5QR

I used a glass slide tube for inside of the coil. You will have to rewrap the coil on the IH to fit around the slide, not hard at all: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FWYAWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MAhxDbTK5P2YY

The actual IH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lChxDb0DGE3TM

The 5v switch w/ wiring harness (you don't need any extra wires this way): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fDhxDb7HTYE19

A Unibit would be a good thing to have to get the 3 holes drilled in the box. A hotglue gun and a screwdriver and your set....

Actually is using a power strip. that's what's in the priority mail box.

btw a generous thing to travel with or take to starbucks-- this http://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8

Ok, so I'm about to embark on this project. I want to put the Hue strips behind my TV, but I need 2 strips, which is expensive and cumbersome. Here's what I've been able to find...

I purchased some item from Amazon. Here's what I got:
16 foot roll of RGB LED's: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YRT9IK/

12v RGB LED Power Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081CZJGO/

12v Power Supply for LED Strip: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/

Here's what I plan on doing. I cut off the LED strips AFTER the Philips controller. That should leave 4 wires, the R, G, B and V+ wires. I connect that to the RGB Amplifier. I them connect the amplifier to the RGB strip and voila, everything should work, in theory. I haven't completed this project yet, I just got the items today. I plan on recording a video assembling everything together. There's a few videos on YouTube showing this as well, but they're vague. Hope this post helps!

If it's AC adapter, I think it uses a pretty generic one, you should be able to find it.



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3owhybBPVHBRM

None! http://www.amazon.com/MX-UC1-Protector-Universal-Charger-Adapter/dp/B00E0FZSQC/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1457444965&sr=8-16&keywords=european+adapter This is indeed a good adapter.

Ive been in one hostel in 4 months that had USB power outlets. Simply put, no hostels dont offer this. Just buy adapters now cause theyre cheaper on amazon than in the stores. I guarantee you will be buying them within a day once you get to your destination.

I bought a pack on amazon for 8 bucks that has all the adapters you will need in every country you go to.

Id say ditch the solar panel (unless you plan on camping a lot) and keep the USB battery pack. Battery packs are extremely useful if your hostel is short on plugs or youre on a long train/bus/plane that has no outlets.

I use this outside at the far end of my garage with a smart bulb plugged into it so I dont have to flick the switch for light https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPC102A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I pre-ordered mine. Do we need an adapter to plug it into the wall? Like one of these? https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498501529&sr=8-3&keywords=uk+to+us+plug+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LMQ6G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1486353579&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=24+volt+power+supply Would this work with something like this https://www.adafruit.com/products/368?gclid=CJySv_bL-tECFdgIgQodgTgAeg to run wires to the relay and drivers?

Iv been looking for something like this, thanks. For those that are looking here's the parts...

LED strip

Power supply

Connectors

If the bios to your mother board will do wake on power, I would recommend using that to power on your PC. Just get a wireless remote for an outlet so you can turn on the power at a press of a button http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G80V28 or you can do a wake on keyboard from the ipac. I use this for all my arcade/Mame cabs. Shutdown can be handled from your front end.

The most time consuming part of any Mame build is configuring your front end. You should get that set up before you build anything. This will help you find what works and what your missing in advance.

Did a little research real quick so I could give you the correct spots to hook it up. here is a link to what you buy and you will hook one to your C port and one to your RC port. It does not matter which one. Also make sure you move that small red jumper cable that’s connecting your RH to your RC.

So basically you will have four wires. (Important to remove the tiny red wire!)
A red and black cable from your wall. Red will go RH and black will go to W.
2 wires from your new transformer. One will go to C and one will go to RC. (Doesn’t matter which one because they can interchange. Plug it into your outlet and you’re all set. Literally takes 5 minutes!

https://www.amazon.com/Worldwide-Adapter-International-Charging-Universal/dp/B00Y3ABJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467336506&sr=8-1&keywords=loop+power+adapter

This is the one I have, and the one I see recommended the most. I've used it in Iceland and mainland Europe and it works great. Haven't personally tried it in the UK, but it has the adapter for it.

Don't be sorry for the wall of text, that link was very helpful.

I'm giving up on the RGBW and going with standard RGB for the time being.

If I go with one of the Magic Home RGB controllers, they state they can go all the way up to 12v, although I'd probably rather run 5v to it. I could get this step-down (as the article suggest) with this power supply. Or can the Magic Home take 12v no problem?

You can get adapters for this kind of thing, I think your much better off doing that.

https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=plug+adapter+plug+adapter+uk+to+usa&qid=1555607859&s=gateway&sr=8-14

I've been using this power supply for two 16ft light strips that are connected to one controller and it's been working good.
LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9YTRDb5S1HY57

Hah! Not at all, this is the one I got. LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AME1DbXG6XC11

Had a lot of issues deciding, myself. For the price, I went with this and skipped the MOSFET. I followed this guide to the T, if it helps.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/c94dxj/comment/etwdtf8?utm_source=amp&utm_medium=&utm_content=comment_timestamp

Given that is looks like mine, I'm going to assume they are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF66JO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&pd_rd_r=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH&pd_rd_w=Xw11o&pd_rd_wg=ZQTfN&psc=1&refRID=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH

To install: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnimeFigures/comments/7psgup/dioder_alternatives/dsjy59n/ (Follow the pictures in the chain)

Was the Original Power Supply suppose to be AC or DC, and what is the power supply you bought?

And what is the voltage suppose to be? 12v, 24v, 5v, other?

https://www.amazon.com/Gonine-Adapter-Connector-Compatible-Devices/dp/B07MB1M51Z/

https://www.amazon.com/110V-220V-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B073QTNF9F/

https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Universal-Adjustable-Household-Electronics/dp/B07QX4J9VY/

https://www.amazon.com/Belker-Universal-Adapter-Supply-Speaker/dp/B07N18XN84/

I actually went in the opposite direction, favoring compactness over convenience. I just use a 3-outlet tap combined with the power adapter for whatever country I'm in.

I've never had issues fitting things on the outlet tap and it packs up to a tiny size.

That particular one is made to replace the wall plate of a regular outlet. But Yes you can use splitters in a surge protector.

Might I suggest keeping one of these in your pruse for future outlet hording jerk faces. Works great when when you have many devices too.

I got this:

24 Volt Transformer, C-Wire Power Adapter for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Emerson Sensi, Ring Doorbell Pro, Nest Hello, Skybell, Smart WiFi Thermostat and Doorbell Power, 25 ft Cable by Fyve Global https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HTKiDbK0DNCZ1

Maybe? 24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Smart Wifi Thermostat By Fyve Global | 25 Foot Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nl20BbXE66AP7

24 Volt C-Wire Power Adapter/Transformer for Ecobee Nest Honeywell Smart Wifi Thermostat By Fyve Global | 25 Foot Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8kOMBbDXX81VD

I don't have a c-wire in my steam heat system either. Got a Nest Gen 3 thermostat coz National Grid was selling it for $109 as part of Earth Week. I ordered a plug-in transformer to act as a c-wire. The reviews sound promising. Will report back once I have it installed.

the stack of three [eventually, four] 421Ds has taken over a whole corner of my living room. now that they're all on full display when i have guests over, i'm finally trying to up my aesthetic game.

i bought these LED strip lights, which can be cut down to whatever length, and this power supply. i also bought some extra wire and connectors so i can, eventually, run one long strip of LED lights through all four enclosures. the strip has an adhesive backing, but i used hot glue to secure it to the enclosure ceiling about an inch or so away from the front wall/door.

99% chance you need a C wire. Myself and many others with 2 wire boiler systems were in this boat (even down to getting the same error e195). The good news is that it sounds like you already have a third wire in your walls, even if it isn't hooked up. You could just try and connect the wire to your boiler transformer but I wouldn't recommend this. Those transformers weren't meant to power both the boiler and an additional device (the Nest) and you'll likely see more power problems. Instead, you could purchase a plug-in external transformer, plug it in near your boiler, and send power over the C wire (there's lots of articles on how to do this - it's dead easy). I've been running mine in this configuration for a year with zero e195 errors. I actually had to take the extra step of installing a FastStat CommonMaker to "fake" a third wire as I didn't have one in my walls but luckily you don't have to do that.

**EDIT: You do not require a Nest Pro installer for this... if you were able to install your Nest then you will be able to do the above very easily.

So basically I used a 16" wire wreath frame and wrapped tin foil around it to reflect the light better, and stuck on the LED Lights! They don't come with a power adapter so I bought this one.

I just happened to install my 3rd detolf and brand new lighting systems for all 3 so I think I can help you out.

Before I just bought some standard LED lightings from IKEA but eventually had go install something else because of how many wires that were spilling out of my detolf (and I hate wires).
So.... I finally opted to try out some LED Light strips. These were the ones I bought and by george are they bright. I mean so bright they could be used as runway lights in an airport. The LED strips were easy enough to install as it already came with an adhesive strip on the back so all you had to do was wrap it around inside the detolf and plug it in.

I also had to buy the power brick(mandatory) and light switch(optional) with it. The LED strip doesn't come with its own power source so I had to buy a separate one and I also bought the dimmer switch just so I could attach it to the side of my desk and turn the lights on and off in a convenient matter (unfortunately the dimmers don't actually work on those LED strips but still useful).

This was what I had before and now with the new lighting system This is what I get. Quite the upgrade no?

Just buy something like this. Doesn't need to be MFLB-specific.

It is a 3 plug outlet like this:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Heavy-Duty-3-Outlet-54203/dp/B000EU4HBO/

Something like this is what you are looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP18-Adapter-Converts-Grounded/dp/B000NND600

just buy a converter, they're like 6 bucks on amazon

Just grab one of these and a standard to candelabra converter and you're back in business. Total cost may be like 5-8 bucks.

I'm coming from the US, and I'm bringing something like this:


http://www.amazon.com/Worldwide-Adapter-Charging-International-Charger/dp/B00Y3ABJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454107246&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=international+plug&psc=1

The heat up time is how I calibrated it - ya I like it that way

I put a small rock at the bottom to adjust the height - see this guys post https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/d7pcew/make_sure_to_calibrate_your_home_made_induction

Without the rock it heats FAST - Too fast. I could try a smaller rock when I get around to it

Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ

IH module: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA

I was more so talking about a normal power supply brick, something like this (DC power supply is the proper term, just used to incorrectly calling them transformers). I've used similar of these to drive simple LED strip light setups.

something like this ?
https://www.amazon.com/LampChamp-Charger-eReaders-Security-Anything/dp/B01EPC102A

Looks like something similar to this.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01EPC102A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KjQaBb02GX2GG

I was looking at something like this: power adapter
5 amp seems more than sufficient

Those box universal adapters work really well, they are cheap, usually $10 or less and work just about everywhere and even though they are a little big its not an issue.

You don't need a different charger, you'll just need an adapter so you can plug it in. Something like one of these.

European sockets run at 230V while US ones run at 110V, so for some types of appliances there can be problems. But things like laptop chargers are made for the international market anyway, so they almost always just work.

Something like this should work for the power. Not sure if it will run on just power without seeing schematics.

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509794836&sr=8-4&keywords=24v+power+supply&dpID=51ZnVe2x07L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If you don’t have an extra wire, you can buy a 24v wall wort to power the nest. It isn’t pretty but it works.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_G6eSAbRZ5368R

3. .25A is correct, but thats 250mA.
   
   phone chargers are typically 5v, not 12v. Anything with a 12v >250mA output would work, so it just depends what you have laying around. Or you can get something off amazon for maybe 10 bucks at most. such as http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adaptor-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453144942&sr=8-3&keywords=led+power+supply

I have mine on remote outlets (similar to these), nice and quick to turn them on and off, and then I used a simple cable channel to hide the power cable. I would get random shutoffs while playing with bluetooth. Not at first, but after a few months for some reason, it started doing that.

wish.com has grow tents for $35.lights are easy.... walmart sells a base for light bulbs to plug in standard outlet...get surge protectors from dollar tree and plug 2 or 3 bulbs on the strip. bam your good on the cheap.

walmart has em too but i cant find link...

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Ivory-Socket-Outlet-Adapter/dp/B000VL4CFC

That one looks good. Here is one I found that is rated for the nest but only outputs 300mA.

https://www.amazon.com/Transformer-Honeywell-Thermostat-Fyve-Global/dp/B075PN6NCV

If it only requires 300mA, then either one will work.

Something like this is better suited. You'll probably want to check if the size is correct, but it's usually that size with 12V.

https://www.amazon.com/110V-220V-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B073QTNF9F/

Yes you'll need a power supply. If you were to buy this LED tape it comes with one, just cut the barrel connector off, strip the two leads, and connect them to the DMX decoder inputs. Then toss the remote and IR sensor in the garbage.

Or you could buy them on their own. Try not to go too cheap with them. The build you linked to uses a switch mode driver/transformer. They have surge protection and can switch between input voltage but I've found they can make a squealing sound when running.

Module: SainSmart 5V~12V Zero Voltage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Power Supply: LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OKGHDbACFYZQB
(You May want to find a 10a one instead)

Momentary Switch: yueton DC 36V 2A 16mm High Round... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131XF9KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Box: Pinfox 2 Pack Black Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5SZNR9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I used one very similar to this and it worked fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519684388&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+3a+power+supply&dpID=41kaSAMcYWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Based on the specifications of that monitor, it requires a 7-18V DC power adapter. Within that range, you can get at 12V DC adapter for cheap and they're very common and generic. The amperage required by the monitor is less than 1A, so a this power adapter will work fine. Within the specifications of your monitor, and not expensive.

If you're on a budget, it's pretty easy to convert an old PC power supply into a 12v bench power supply and those usually have more than enough power to power several battery chargers at once.

Or if that's too hard, you can buy one of these or even one of these or something similar and they'll do the job nicely and can usually power more than one charger if you wire things up properly.

Not that there's anything wrong with spending a few dollars extra for a charger that has an AC input, of course. (And that's what I'd suggest if you buy any new chargers.) And if you want to be able to charge two batteries at once, often it's cheaper to buy two seperate chargers than a single charger that can handle two batteries simultaneously -- at least check the prices.

I had picked up this charger from HK for about $20 about a year ago and it's been really good -- but they don't seem to carry it any more. And it doesn't do AC input so ... I see no reason not to go with ohhnoez's suggested charger if you do buy a new charger.

Backpacking off this - I found this universal adapter on amazon.

If all your devices are USB-powered, I highly recommend these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O0RJJD8?keywords=international%20usb%20charger&qid=1457444920&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

Just choose the plug that works, and you're golden. No worries.

For regular plugs, I like this type, just choose the cheapest you can find. I'm always leaving them in hotel rooms, anyway.

Unfortunately I can’t run a wire from the unit because I’m in an apartment. Should I keep the jumper and remove the wire going from transformer to RC? (So the transformer would only power the C)

I know these are probably basic questions so I appreciate the help man.

Btw I’m using this type of transformer.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PN6NCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MXqzDbKY8SWCF

No you need something more like this

LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dfX2DbY18XP3R

You should just use a 24VDC Wall wart instead of this switching power supply. Here is one:

https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519701692&sr=1-3&keywords=24vdc+power+supply

Just cut the wires and determine which is ground and + with a multimeter. Use this as the input to the L298N board. Then you can power your Arduino with the common ground and +5V terminal. This might work a little bit better than using the switching power supply that you have noted above

I got this one and haven't had any problems so far https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NND600/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LE4jDb2RHMAW8

I never tried disconnecting it completely. I bought a power supply from Amazon for it and have it on, but not actually controlling anything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075PN6NCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The charger is multi-voltage so just get a UK -> US adaptor plug.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/US-UK-Plug-Travel-Adaptor/dp/B0006OFKNC

Get one of these maybe? You can use the remote for this to hard turn off your wii

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Outlet-Wireless-Remote-Outlets/dp/B000G80V28

one of these would answer your question:
Amazon1 Amazon2

They have rotating ones:

https://www.amazon.ca/360-Electrical-36010-W-Rotating-Duplex/dp/B000VWC27G

Wouldn't put any heavy loads on them though

How exactly are those cheaper or simpler?

http://www.amazon.com/360-Electrical-36010-W-Rotating-Duplex/dp/B000VWC27G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369851531&sr=8-1&keywords=15+AMP+ROTATING+DUPLEX+OUTLET

www.amazon.com/dp/B000VWC27G/

I fly with this: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1YWGSF40WYH1RWWSWM72

I've got a Dot plugged into one of these since I also only have one outlet:

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Grounded-3-Outlet-Tap-58368/dp/B001UE7SC8/

Echo in the bathroom is a game changer. I can listen to music or podcasts and set reminders when I think of stuff while I'm washing up or on the can. Also have it connected to a waterproof bluetooth speaker in the shower since the Dot isn't very loud.

This one is a bit more compact.

No joke, I travel with one of these. I'm never without a plug. Just ask people politely if I can unplug them for a second.