(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best household cleaning products

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

​

Charging

• Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  
• Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  
• NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.
  
  Tesla OEM
  
  
• Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  
• Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  
• Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.
  
  Detailing
  
  
• Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  
• Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  
• Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  
• Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  
• Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.
  
  Third-Party
  
  
• Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  
• Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  
• Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  
• Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  
• Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  
• Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  
• Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  
• Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  
• Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  
• Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

I have trouble standing and walking, but am fine when sitting, so most of my advice is from that viewpoint.

Swiffers for everything! Mop/sweeper, duster, dusting cloths, etc. They're really efficient and disposable so I don't have to deal with things like mop buckets, dirty mop heads, cleaning feather dusters, anything like that.

One of those extendable pincher things to help pick stuff up off the floor.

An extendable scrubber for the bathroom. The shape makes it really easy to get into corners.

A clothes folder makes it really easy to fold your clothes, and I can use this on my lap while sitting down in bed.

A walker with a seat makes it really easy to get around to do things and has a seat for when I need to sit down. The basket that most come with helps to carry supplies from one room to the next.

Stick vaccums are super lightweight and easy to maneuver even from a couch or bed.

A scrubbing attachment that goes on a power drill is so helpful when you don't have the strength or stamina to scrub by hand.

I swear by all of the Kaboom products. All of them are no-effort cleaning supplies. They have toilet cleaner, mold and mildew cleaner, and, of course, the famous shower foam.

An automatic vacuum like a roomba is great for most people, but I've never had one so I can't comment myself.

Soak your dishes. There are special products that help get dried on food off your dishes, but I've found that just soaking them in hot water for 20-30 minutes before trying to wash them gets most stuck on food off. For really tough, baked on gunk, add a dryer sheet to the water. Sounds weird, but it helps soften up the crusty blackened burnt on food and it comes off easily.

For food that's stuck on the inside of the microwave, take a cup of water, add some lemon juice, and microwave it on full power for 6 minutes. The food will wipe right off.

I might think of more things later. If I do I'll come back and edit this post.

Whether it's the legs, arms, ab/diaphragm, or head, you should use Pledge future polish. Clear nail polish can damage the paint on a figure, depending on the brand, some don't, but I don't remember which brands. Also it doesn't last as long as pledge, and is just messy overall.

Future polish dries clean on 1-2 coats, holds well, and tightens joints strongly. I had a Masterpiece Grimlock that's legs were straight up loose out of the box, they wouldn't hold a pose at all. One coat of future and they were perfectly tight, and still are, haven't had to redo it in over a year. And it washes off neatly with water.
Only use super glue in any of those joints for a more 'permanent' solution.

But if it's the waist rotation, I recommend a good quality super glue over future here (but you'll have to keep rotating it for a long time to make sure it doesn't get stuck, it might also take 1-2 coats).

if you're new and you just want an easy kit:



field manual with pictures if you're really new to AR's something like this is super valuable to have.

Otis Cleaning Kit includes everything you need to clean it.



solvent You probably don't need a solvent on a new rifle but its damn handy to have around. this stuff is for ultra deep cleaning.



Lube Everyone has their favorite Lube, mine is ballistol, you can dump it on pretty much everything, and it makes it work together smoothly



scrapper for when your bolt carrier group gets all fuckered.



EDIT: almost forgot, you're def going to want one of these puppies too, a chamber brush


Cleaning tools usually come down to personal preference, cost, and how effective you can use them to keep your gun rust free and preforming well. I have had a great experience with all the tools i linked, and have used them to keep my AR 15 clean and functioning for a few thousand rounds. I think the largest benefit to this set up is that all these tools will easily fit inside of any range bag.



Have a good one and keep shooting!

I really like [Old English](Old English Light Wood Scratch Cover, 8 oz, Multicolor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009Y6G7I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kZ8RCbER02WCH) for covering scratches and restoring color. Make sure you get the kind for light woods unless you want to turn your furniture a dark brown.

I really like [Murphy’s Oil Soap](Murphy’s Oil Soap, 32-Ounce (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8L2WZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r18RCbH1TC6AW) for cleaning grimy furniture. It’s not going to remove the finish.

The original formula will also clean leather! You dilute it in warm water and scrub. Towel off with a soft cloth, then condition with neetsfoot oil or leather conditioner. I have restored really old, dried out saddles, bridles, and boots with this method. It’s great for taking the scratches out of leather, like scratches from your cat or scuffs on shoes.

You can also rub a clear wax (or even a tinted one) on top of the clean wood to moisturize and protect it. Like if you clean too much of the dark off, you can dab a tinted wax into the crevices then rub with a soft cloth to remove the excess. Waxed furniture can be cleaned with water. The upside of wax is that if you don’t like it, you can rub it off with mineral spirits instead of having to take the entire wood finish off. You can also put a poly coat over wax. There’s a rub on poly that is easier to apply than trying to brush it on.

From a simplicity point of view, I definitely think oil is the way to go. You'll see a 3 part cleaner, brightener and oil kit. It's a great idea but I think diluted oxalic acid works way better. Try this with this scrubber. Scrub (while using gloves) with the oxalic acid and the stainless steel scrubber being careful not to dig into the grain. Rinse it with clean water a couple times and let it dry. This brings the original color out of the teak. Then, just brush on a couple coats of oil. It's way less fiddly than varnish. Just wipe up any mess. You'll need to oil every other month or so to keep that nice warm color but I can literally do my deck hand rails and the companionway hatch in less than 15 minutes. It's very easy.

Try to go easy on the cleaning chemicals when possible. Simple green should work fine on most of the exterior. Magic erasers can be good for stubborn or stained control panels, side art or general trouble spots, but be warned they do tend to take some of the paint off especially on old art. Novus 2 is a fantastic polisher for just about anything plastic, can work on rusted metal too if you want to tumble some parts. Goo gone (NOT goof off!) is great for removing old adhesives if you need to replace a CP or side art and take off some old glue underneath. Any glass cleaner is fine for the monitor (CRT!) screens, use simple green or a light cleaner on the plexiglass bezels or around art on the underside of a glass marquee. If you have some stained or smelly particle board inside your cabinet, white vinegar and a scrubbing brush can take out some of the smell and discoloration.

Those are the main tools I use, I'm sure each collector has their own set of favorites.

Atrium Anniversary! 🥳

In honor of today’s Drop of the Abacus I decided to polish up my Copper Atrium and carry it today at work. I can’t believe it’s been two years since the original Atriums dropped. Preorders started 10/22/17.

After receiving it I ordered tritium vials in Green and Purple and added them with UV resin. Have been real happy with how they turned out and a delightful display in the night.

I have been letting my Copper pieces patina. But about once a year I have been repolishing them with Blue Magic and then recently started applying Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. I have been super impressed with this wax and how long Copper and Brass/Bronze items remain shiny. Some are free from patina even when they come back around in my rotation a month later.

Blue Magic 400 7 Ounce 7OZ MTL Polish Cream
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO8Z9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5h2PDbNMVKHCA

Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish (65 ml)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DSZWEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_PosSl7D59dCRQ

Personally, I've pretty much stopped using canned air for dusting unless I have to, as I was sick and tired of sneezing and dusting all of MY equipment after I finished with customer equipment (also, it's pretty gross when you think of what that stuff is). Personally, I think water is a bad choice. A single drop gets where it doesn't belong and you potentially release the magic smoke.
My professional opinion is vacuums/cleaner wipes are the way to go.

For the vacuum, you don't want to use your home vacuum, as the air going through the tubes generates static electricity, and static+computers=bad. Metro Vacuums has a line called DataVac that are ESD safe. I own the middle option both at work and at home.

Low volume - http://amzn.com/B001J4ZOAW
Medium volume - http://amzn.com/B00MU2DE36
High volume (This one can use HEPA filters that can block toner particles, a must if you plan on cleaning laser printers/copers. The other units can't filter the tiny particles, and the supposedly make their way into the motor and chew stuff up, and aren't good to breathe either) - http://amzn.com/B000RMQJBK

I also use generic electronics cleaner wipes (like these: http://amzn.com/B004GCUJWM) to get all the smudgy stuff off of laptops. For the really grody ones, clorox wipes. I just don't hit the screen, and I usually follow up with an electronics wipe, as the clorox wipes leave streaks.

edit: I know the vacs aren't cheap, but canned air is freaking expensive too. At $3 a can, the ROI is pretty short on these vacs if you do much work on computers. I always clean any computer/server that comes across my workbench, as it just makes working on them easier, and improves customer satisfaction. I think of it like taking your car into the dealership for an oil change and finding out they washed and vacuumed it. It's just pleasant, and it takes less than 5 minutes.

OP, if you want to start again. Get some Simple Green (original one only, not any special varieties) to strip them. It might be harder to find where you live in stores, but Amazon and Staples usually carries it.

After that, check out this video on painting Ultramarines. They give a paint list at the beginning, any colors you don't have from the AoS kit you'll need to either get individually or in the Ultramarines paint kit.

Also prime them black (spray primer). You can try to check out what other people use to prime that won't clog detail, or you can get the Citadel stuff.

EDIT: Soak 'em in a plastic container filled with the Simple Green for 24 hours. Then just use a toothbrush to get it all off. Should come off fairly easily (you might have to work a bit in the grooves).

EDIT 2: If you really enjoy painting, you might want to check out /r/minipainting's buyers guide. And also check out a lot of tutorials on YouTube. YouTube is your friend. Warhammer TV I linked above has lots of painting videos, but there are tons of other channels like miniwargaming, their spin-off channels, Tabletop Minions, etc.

In my professional detailing business, I've had fantastic results using Leather Masters Leather Vital followed by Conditioning Cream. It is specifically designed for 'painted ' or topcoated materials, but has the ability to erase wrinkles and age marks in older seats.

The link below has a cleaner to use with it, however I've used my own cleaner before Vital and Conditioner with great results.

Leather Masters 3 Part Kit

Very nice and clean!

Before you heat the bed and set the adhesive, I'd peel it off, clean everything with isopropyl alcohol (the good industrial stuff) and attempt to re-adhere the PEI. If you got yours from Amazon, you should have spare sheets of it.

I rolled on 3M onto the bed first, using an empty wine bottle to drive the bubbles out. Then I trimmed the adhesive and carefully peeled off the other side. Next, I bowed the PEI a bit, lined up the 2 corners, and started rolling it on, using a bottle as a pressure roller. Worked out pretty good.

Also...

http://imgur.com/FgHEkyF

eee! Don't remove the needle to clean it, get a needle cleaner! I am assuming your issue is alignment with the needle - it sounds like you're dealing with channel cutout. Make sure your needle is aligned PERFECTLY with the cartridge, using the factory protractor usually, and get yourself a needle brush!

This is a hella one

This is residual oil that doesn't get cleaned out of the banger with a qtip. I'm sure you have noticed it rising when you torch your banger the next time. It rises and pretty much turns to black soot. Peeps call this a chazzed banger. You have to qtip like everyone is saying after every hit. Even then my bowl with chazz over time. There is a product I use to clean my banger every couple of days. The key is to stay on it and don't let it get really black and chazzed. Try using some of this. I got it from my local head shop and it's great. link This is a big bottle. My headshop has smaller, portable ones.

As others have said, dry it first. Here's a kit I use on cars when I detailed cars professionally. I don't know what applicators you want to use on shoes, but I think microfiber should be good. The most important step is cleaning, so I'd try my best to be thorough with that. One kit should last you a very long time and can be recycled for your car, furniture, and bags too.

LA's Totally Awesome cleaner does a good job of removing sticker residue. https://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM $7 at Amazon, $1 dollar at every dollar store in America. Goo-Be-Gone works well too, but can etch some plastics pretty quickly, so be careful and rinse well if you choose to go that route.

Get mechanical grade alcohol, 99%, get it in the pressurized spray can, and regular bottle. Disassemble the GPU and get any parts that got coolant on them out of the system.

Get a clean plastic container that can fit the parts you've gotten wet. Put the alcohol in there from the non pressurized n bottle. Place parts in bath of alcohol, use the pressurized alcohol and qtips to clean your parts. Once done, let dry for at least 48 hours in front of a fan.

I've recovered an entire x99 system this way. Good luck.

Edit

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Cleaner/dp/B005DNQX3C/

Spray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PL1Q

I copied my comment from another thread where I listed what he used that I could identify below. If you have any questions about technique I would be happy to try and answer them!

---

He's using a couple of things.

First, the white liquid is just some regular kitchen cleaner with a mild abrasive like soft scrub.

Next, the black whetstone looks like a welsh slate which is a type of natural whetstone. Could easily be something else, especially since welsh slates are usually rather high grit, but that was the first that came to mind. It could also be an oilstone, but they don't usually get muddy like the one he used did. Those are the only black whetstones I know of.

After the black stone he uses a rust eraser.

Next, the green block is honing compound. Green compound is usually around 1 micron.

Next, the progression of stones are all Shapton Pros.

Finally, he strops on this overprice Bob Kramer strop block.

---

What he's actually doing:

1. Scrubbing with cleaner to remove some of the rust
   
   
2. "Muddy" whetstone to remove more of the rust. Muddy stones work out unevenness in the blade.
   
   
3. Rust eraser to remove even more rust and give the start of a consistent finish
   
   
4. Green honing compound which he's using as a metal polish (which it effectively is)
   
   
5. Regular whetstone sharpening with a progression of 2k, 5k, 12k (Shaptons are color coded)
   
   
6. Leather strop

Thanks for all your advice! I’ve written out all details on the project I can think of with my final proposed design. I want to be extra careful since this uses mains voltage. I think I’ve mitigated my risks but would love your review and thoughts on the final design with the whole picture in mind. I’m also going to create a new post in this sub so feel free to reply there instead.

Project Overview
I’m building an oxalic acid vaporizer to treat my beehives for mite infestations on a semi-annual basis. Oxalic acid comes in a powder form and sublimates at 315F, degrading into unwanted gas products at 372F. 1-2g of acid are applied at a time and must be done so away from the person as fumes are toxic. The vaporizer will be used 1-2 times per year by myself only.
Key Requirements

• Vaporizer must hold 1-2g of acid and run from 315F-360F consistently for 1-3mins
  
• Heating element must be at least 3ft from the body
  
• Vaporizer must run on 120VAC (no car batt available) and plug into a standard GFCI outlet
  
• Must have a physical on/off switch and a light to indicate if the heater is receiving power
  
• Should be low cost (~$50) using easily available retail/free parts
  
• Must be easily portable by 1 person
  
  Design & BoM
  The vaporizer will consist of a heating element with a small copper reservoir on the end of an aluminum broom stick. It will plug into an extension cord and have an inline illuminated switch to turn on/off as well as an in-line thermostat to keep the element in the correct temp range. All elements will be grounded and well secured and insulated to avoid shock. The rough placement and wiring diagram can be seen here and takes after this one. The BoM is below
  
  
• Old aluminum 4ft broomstick to mount everything to
  
• 120v illuminated toggle switch as physical switch and indicator from ebay
  
• In-line disc Thermostat as temp regulator from alliedelec.com
  
• Portable Immersion heater as heating element from BBB
  
• 3/4in copper plug as acid reservoir from Home Depot
  
• Thermal paste for contact between reservoir and thermostat disc from newegg
  
• Shallow 1-gang box as housing for switch and extra wires from Home Depot
  
• All wires will be cut and spliced from an 8ft 3 prong extension chord
  
• Grounds will be fastened to all metal parts and reservoir will be fastened to thermostat using screws and bolts
  
• Wires will be fastened and secured using wire nuts, electrical tape, and zip ties
  
  Risks/Questions
  
  
• The heating element is made to be immersed in liquid and may fail after multiple times reaching high temperatures.
  
• The toggle switch may use an in-line diode for illumination, which would act as a half-wave rectifier for power reaching the heater, thereby significantly reducing the voltage and/or burning out the light.
  
• It may not be possible to securely fasten the reservoir to the thermos disc using off the shelf tools and fasteners. It may require thermal cement.
  
• All connections and pinch/abrasion points must be very secure and well insulated to avoid shock
  
  That’s it. Anything problematic or overlooked? Any better ways you can think of?
  

Everyone does it differently but we all probably use the same product called Nesquik Instant Coffee. Generally brew up a batch at room temperature with distilled water. Boiling it turns allot of the acids into base and well water has allot of minerals in it.

Basic ferric chloride etch to get an even base coat going. I'll generally neutralize with Windex. Then clean the oxides off with a cotton makeup pad with a dab of Green Flitz. Making sure its all even. If not repeat.

Then as simple as dropping it in the coffee and checking every 5-10 minutes since it etches slow. Repeated etching intervals of 5 minutes with a quick Windex neutralization and light makeup surface wiping to continually remove the surface oxides will get you there. (No Flitz if your going for dark until your set on the color since it will drop it a shade)

The finer the grind the darker an etch will take.

But as I said before ultimately it all comes down to the steel to achieve a full black etch. There's just not enough Manganese in 1080 and 1095. Without using something like a blueing agent it'll always be closer to a deep grey. Steels like D2, 5160, 1084, and 80CRV2 all have a higher Manganese content which allows for a deeper darker etch. There are others I just can't remember them off the top of my head.

Thats not the correct stuff.

this is the stuff you need, It comes in a clear bottle, This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish-27-Ounce-Bottles/dp/B0034792NM

Also, don't use a spray bottle, thats nowhere near an even-enough spray pattern. You need an airbrush to really apply it properly, or manually brush it on, you get different results with each. (You can dip clear parts in it to get super clear canopies/windows)

If you haven’t already fixed it, you could try the Zenith Tibet Almond Stick Scratch Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZN9OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cCDdAbKEHWVGF

I hope the link works. You can google the name anyway if it doesn’t, they even sell it at Walmart. It’s amazing! When I was younger my brother helped me move into my apartment and put my teak dining table upside down in the bed of his truck with nothing protecting it. It got super scratched by little rocks or whatever was in his truck bed, and he gave me that Xenith Tibet almond stick to use. It made them almost disappear completely!

Try a Tibet Almond Stick(Used to be Zenith). My mom used them on everything when I was a kid. I bought one a few years ago and the still work well. There are videos on YouTube to check it out.


Tibet Almond Stick Scratch Remover Most Amazing Wooden Surface Stain Remover And Give
Perfect New Look To Wood Products https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006ZN9OS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_L8XEDbHJPBVXY

I have been using iKlear Apple polish for years. It's great for all my electronics (iPhones, macs, etc), though I don't use it on the display of my MacBook Pro or iMac. For the computer displays, I use a lint free cloth and water. It works great on the iPhone display, but once it's on the display of my MacBook or iMac, it seems to leave smudge marks, which must be removed with water and a cloth. I'm guessing it has to do with the coating on the computer displays, which is not present on the phone's display. I also use it to clean my glasses!

I picked up these Windex electronic wipes at Lowe's or Home Depot or something a year or two ago, they work great for cleaning screens and stuff! I wipe down everything electronic with them, TV, monitor, laptop, including the outside case, keyboard, and trackpad. I usually hit the keyboard with some compressed air first. Works great and I haven't had any issues ever!

I get the black stuff in my master bath toilet.

Only thing that has worked for me is weekly cleaning with a toilet bowl cleaner that you can spray up under the rim and a brush that can get under the rim too.

I had plumbers out for something else and they said it was the water supply, which I believe.

I’ve just ordered Ka-Boom kit. Heard it helps with under rim and ring stuff.
Supposed to flow thru the holes

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPEO64G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IjRSCbJD59C4S

Good luck

This is awesome

as is this

and finally this

-D

I once bought some tinted Old English scratch cover polish for the cabinets at our last townhome. Basically, you rub it in to treat the wood, but it also has a bit of color to it. You can get a slightly darker color and rub it into your lighter cabinets. Clean then first. It should fill in the scratches, too. In my experience, it needed to be reapplied in a couple of months, but maybe that will work until all of your cabinets are matching. Just be sure to pick out the right color!

this: https://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Cartridge-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative/dp/B004MJ0OEW

this is the best and easiest thing out there.

If/when you do get them polished up, if you want to keep their shine longer (especially brass), check out Renaissance Wax

Pricey, but it lasts a very long time and you only need tiny amounts of it. Used by preservationists/restorationists a great deal.

When my tools get really gunked up (happens more in the winter when I'm adding oil to my foundation) I use LA's Totally Awesome Orange all purpose cleaner. I can only find it at dollar stores, but here's a listing on Amazon.

It has orange oil, which if you have ever known any mechanics, is the bomb at cleaning even the most stubborn crap. But it's still somehow gentle.

Agree totally....unless it goes belly up and I wish I had just left it alone. It take time and effort but the knowledge you are never lost, makes me want to experiment. I really should go back in on my Full Chubb but it is so close to being right I am trying to swerve my OCD: https://i.imgur.com/nkQNiVL.jpg
The only other 'polish' I would recommend is a cleaning paste by Renaissance: https://www.amazon.com/PRE-LIM-Surface-Cleaner-Ceramics-Enamels/dp/B00J7UJREO
Then, regardless of what I use I always employ: Renaissance Micro Crystalline wax polish to finish the job off: https://www.amazon.com/Renaissance-Micro-Crystalline-Wax-Polish-65/dp/B001DSZWEM
This stuff is my go to!
Idle.

Yeah that's true. But worth the work for me. Windex is not available in my country.

At least on Amazon they charge 11 € and state that the color is yellow XDD https://www.amazon.de/Windex-Original-Glass-Cleaner-Fluid/dp/B01GFLZ0WU/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=windex&qid=1563095249&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Dark-Crystal-Glass-Cystal-Cleaner/dp/B01M0SKLVM

pricy, but less than a new nail, right? if you just use it to dip n swab like i do, one bottle will last you like six months of daily gram dabbing

https://www.amazon.com/Dark-Crystal-Cystal-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B01M0SKLVM

ISO wont do anything weather u soak or not. This is the miracle juice for keeping ur bangers clean.

My favorite lube/cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Ballistol-Non-Aerosol-Friendly-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant/dp/B00ZAPMCHE

This isn't a bad little cleaning kit, I keep it in my shotgun bag. Same kit multiple names it's sold under.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072B9PY7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXP9V3L/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LXP9V3L&pd_rd_wg=Xr5wR&pd_rd_r=X1CKHD2DGJVKANW5C6YF&pd_rd_w=HmqzB

I also have a boresnake.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C50S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By no means is this what you have to have. If you look around the Ballistol is highly liked for firearms, it has always worked wonders for me. I always clean my guns everytime I shoot them, personal preference.

Been using this product for years and can vouch for is ability to make your Mac screen (and iPad, iPhone, and Apple Watch) look heavenly. It's also used by the tech department where I teach to maintain the hundreds of computers and tablets in use by students and faculty. 1, 8oz bottle last a long, long time.

iKlear 8 oz Spray Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CPCT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_HOHxCb4C2XQ21

Ballistol works like a dream. Just make sure you wipe it clean if you are turning your weapon into the armory.

Awesome All purpose cleaner Used to be called just tire cleaner. You can pick it up from most dollar stores and it'll clean rust off rust. We used it to clean an old RV and if you leave it on too long it'll strip the paint right off. This stuff cleans EVERYTHING.

Interesting. Thanks a lot!

Will these do?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009WY5GY
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PW56WA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013R9VT0

Cleaners like the brands Soft-Scrub (a mild abrasive), or Comet (a strong abrasive)

You can try to find an extra long flexible retrival tool like this. Based on the pic you posted on the original thread it looks like you might be able to use it to get a grip on the edge of the phone case.

Huh, still working on this, my inputs with the effort you've gone through.

1. What are the walls made of, is destroying a wall and repairing it an option? If this is a sheetrock wall, at this point I'd just go to the other side, cut through it, grab the phone and repair the wall.
   
   
2. Do you have something that can be stuffed between the wall to pull it up, I'm thinking something like a rubber ball on a coat hanger, force it between the phone and wall and then pull it up. An inflatable ball would be ideal
   
   
3. Don't use a coat hanger, use a fish tape, do you have one? can you get one? You would need to make it so it has a right angled bend on it so it can go under the phone and then pulled up. Maybe a U shape.
   
   
4. I would see if you can use a vacuum cleaner and get enough suction on it.
   
   
5. And the easiest thing (but last I thought of), buy this, now you're done.
   

I think you need to jump up a class of cleaners. Goo Gone Pro Power works pretty good. It's noticibly better than the regular stuff. You could also use this, but as others said, spot check.

This stuff worked pretty well to draw the eye away from the smaller scuffs and scratches:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006ZN9OS

At a glance, that doesn't look like anything permanent. I always kept my GamePad spotless (damn that glossy finish), never had a scratch on it -- but mine certainly looked worse a few times after having a bunch of pizza-eating people over for Smash Bros. Always just used electronics wipes -- something like these. They left streaks on the GamePad's gloass, so once it was fully dry, I buffed it with a microfiber cloth. Looked like new.

I find that hard water + lather creates layers and layers of scum on the DE razor. Takes about a week to be ugly, 2 weeks to be disgusting. The solution, for me, is an ultrasonic cleaner. Bought the cheapest 2 Liter capacity model Amazon sold, have been extremely pleased with the results. Removes scum, hard water deposits, and even blobs-of-glue. You know, DE blades are wrapped in paper and (inexplicably!) glued to the inner wrapper. Some of the glue sticks to the blade, then some of the blade-glue sticks to the razor. Ultrasonic removes it. I use a few spritzs of Simple Green plus a spurt of dishwashing liquid, in the (hot) water.

I usually use Klear Screen or iKlear. Works great on screens and the body of the laptop, even works on pencil/pen/dirt/ect.

Clean with soap and water, use soft scrub and a toothbrush to remove it. If it doesn't come out it might have gone too deep in which case it would have to be replaced, or you can cover it with something.

Soft Scrub: https://smile.amazon.com/Soft-Scrub-Purpose-Kitchen-Cleanser/dp/B000RPXSDY?th=1 should be able to find it easily at your local grocery store though

I bought it from Amazon UK just the other day. Only £8 and should last ages.

Windex 680ml Blue Trigger Spray Original Glass Cleaner Windex https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01GFLZ0WU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4Fj3Bb215R2HQ

I use a small brush like this and just a dab of the fluid that comes with it. Brush straight back to front, so you're pulling the needle arm in the same direction a record does.

A flexible grabber tool might do the trick. This one is 60 inches long, hopefully that would be long enough. You might be able to buy a similar or longer one at a hardware store.

I like to mix a little Old English in with the Murphy’s, or even just straight OE on a rag and rub that in. Might be a little dark for this floor though so maybe check it someplace discreet first.


Edit: here’s one for light woods. https://www.amazon.com/Old-English-Scratch-Bottle-Polish/dp/B0009Y6G7I

The way we do it for all of our Retina displays is to use a Toddy cloth (read a review here), which has a microfiber side for cleaning and a silk side for polishing (this is key for a mirror finish!) and iKlear cleaner fluid, which is what I've heard AppleCare technicians use themselves.

Using the iKlear fluid on the microfiber side first, then polishing with the silk side, gives a display completely free to streak marks or swirls. Now you'll never be able to stand a dirty display!

Orange oil cleaner or isopropyl alcohol usually will take off stuff like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0041LY4MY/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494338243&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=goo+gone&dpPl=1&dpID=41BvyLqs-mL&ref=plSrch

Goo Gone is your friend.

Try this method. It works incredibly well. I have just recently used it on some completely cloudy and scratched up transparent pieces and I could hardly believe the result; the pieces became shiny and transparent again with no scratches or cloudiness remaining!: http://thebrickblogger.com/2012/04/make-your-clear-lego-shine/

Please note that the Pledge product mentioned in the article has been re-named. It is now called Pledge FloorCare and the reference to Future Shine has been taken out. But if you read the instructions on the bottle, you will see it is still the same liquid acrylic. I'm linking to the product listed on Amazon so you see how the bottle now looks like, but you can also get it at any Wal-Mart store: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034792NM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0034792NM&linkCode=as2&tag=thebriblo-20

Problem solved.

This device keeps the bowl clean without risking the seals in the tank.

1. make sure engine is cool. warm is okay.
   
   
2. spray some all purpose cleaner (APC) like Simple Green. you can get this stuff from Home Depot.
   
   
3. agitate with brush (toothbrush for small crevices)
   
   
4. let the APC sit for 1-2 minutes
   
   
5. wipe off with damp towel or rinse off with water.
   
   
6. you can also apply dressing to keep it shining but i'm not sure what kind to get. something water-based i assume.

> 91% Isopropyl Alcohol

You'll be fine, but 91% is on the low side and I prefer to err on the side of caution. I usually buy 99.9% just to be safe.

Or if you don't have like, thousands of dollars to spend cool yet frivolous purchases, you can just get [a tub of oxalic acid](Savogran 10501 Wood Bleach, 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VBGH82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PbXkzbD3JRQ6W) for less than $10 on Amazon.

Mix in water and soak the item overnight; rust is gone.

Not saying it's shitty for electronics in general, it's also commonly found. But every cleaner has its purpose and apparently the only concern is with the thermal paste. You could also get 99.9% electronics grade aerosol from MG Chemicals, not that you find this commonly in stores.

Remember to get some isopropyl alcohol, for example electronics cleaner and wipe the glass between prints. So you get much better adhesion when there is no residue from previous prints.

https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Electronics/dp/B005T8PL1Q

Somebody here recommended this, and it works quite well for me.

I bought these for my TV, Xbox, etc., and found out they work really well on my iPhone too

For those in the UK:

iKlear 8oz Cleaning Solution for Apple Devices, HDTVs, Plasma & LCD Screens in Spray Bottle

This has pretty crappy reviews, but it is worth a shot.

https://www.amazon.com/PF-WaterWorks-Ergonomic-Retriever-PF0408/dp/B01MT6CCI1

Just an update for anyone else scouring the web for this answer...

My Dr recommended washing my clothes with Simple Green. I'm also going to try this cool hippy Peppermint soap my wife just bought from Costco - seems magical.

Peppermint Soap

Simple Green

Stoner Invisible Glass glass cleaner. Find it in Walmart, auto parts stores.

Nope, no smell! That's all that's listed on the bottle. You can see the back label on the second image of the Amazon listing.

> I'd like to stick a bowl cleaner in the tank (or bowl) to resolve the issue, but I've read it's bad to use them if you're not flushing the toilet multiple times a day.

This depends on which one you get.

This one feeds cleaner directly into the bowl, without chlorinating the tank. That one would be fine to NOT flush daily.

Here you go. Pledge keeps rebranding it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034792NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_TotSCb5B751T6

There's an obscure product called Tibetan almond stick. This will take out the small scratches at the end.



For the deeper part you'll have to get some artists markers from an art store to match the color.


https://www.amazon.com/Tibet-Almond-Stick-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0006ZN9OS

If Iso doesn't work i usually go:

http://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM
(this can be found @ the dollar tree)

Then (If need be):

http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Acetone-Remover-Fluid-Ounce/dp/B0006PS3KI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449774484&sr=8-1&keywords=acetone
Haven't used this brand, just acetone in general.



Lastly for hardwater/bloom:

http://www.amazon.com/Calcium-Lime-and-Rust-Remover/dp/B00009EFEX
(Publix/Walmart or any other basic market)

https://www.amazon.com/Windex-9154352-Electronics-Wipes-25-Count/dp/B004GCUJWM/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1468990202&sr=8-1&keywords=windex+wipes+electronics

That's what I use.

Buy your own stick-o-almond!

Here is the mobile version of your link

https://www.amazon.com/English-Scratch-Cover-Polish-Light/dp/B0009Y6G7I

I don't know what is in it but it works... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Tibet-Almond-Stick-Scratch-Remover-x/dp/B0006ZN9OS&ved=2ahUKEwje4sKj0aDgAhUMeKwKHZpiCLcQFjACegQIDRAO&usg=AOvVaw1urS5begkYnT6EDiyZzRne

For years, I have utilized Klear Screen Spray and a Micro Chamois Cloth. I use this combination for both screens (TV, phone, laptop, tablet) and laptop/tablet keyboards.

I use this,

https://www.amazon.com/Kaboom-Scrub-Toilet-Cleaning-System/dp/B00LPEO64G

With these,

https://www.amazon.com/Kem-Tek-1-Inch-Chlorinating-Tablets-4-Pound/dp/B000HZRF92

Haven't scrubbed my toilets in years.

When I had my awful Hyundai elantra I had hazy headlights and the thing that cleared them up(temporarily) was soft scrub, I imagine that'll remove any residue from the tint.

Like this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RPXSDY?pc_redir=T1

Hence why I still don't use a foam cannon or foam gun. If I have a bunch of caked on crud, I have a pump bug spray thing I use to spray Simple Green/soap mixture onto the area (usually wheel wells, tires, wheels).

Take the shells off and scrub them with some of this stuff..

Shit works for everything.

it's probably just dirt. get yourself some of this stuff. and a good microfibre cloth and spray it on the cloth and wipe clean it. don't ever spray anything directly on your machine, you can liquid damage it, and don't clean the computer w/ anything other than this stuff. (this is just my professional opinion, i'm sure that there are other cleaning products out there, but i will only use iKlear)

harsh chemicals in commercial cleaning products will damage the finish. you can use iKlear to clean the outside and the screen, but again, spray the cloth, not the machine.

https://www.amazon.com/iKlear-8-oz-Spray-Bottle/dp/B0018CPCT8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538346259&sr=8-3&keywords=iklear