(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best tape, adhesives & fasteners

The best solution you can get for printing PETG without any warping is a glass bed with PVA glue. I would highly recommend getting a borosilicate (Pyrex) glass plate. Borosilicate glass has a VERY low coefficient for thermal expansion so it extremely resistant to thermal shock and the breakage that comes with it. I had the piece of glass for my CR-10 cut to size at a local glass shop as glass beds were not offered anywhere for the CR-10 at the time. However now you can go on Amazon and pay a very reasonable price for a nice glass bed. Such as this which is less than half the price that I had to pay about two years ago. Ooof!


Take your glass sheet and attach it directly on top of the metal heated bed that the CR-10 has with binder clips. It is a very simple but extremely effective way to keep the glass tightly attached without issue while also allowing a quick and simple process for removing prints and swapping print surfaces.


Then, it is time for the star of the show, the PVA glue! Now, before you get intimidated by the exotic sounding glue (like I did when I first heard about having to use it), just know that it is literally just Elmer's Disappearing Purple Gluestick. This is seriously one of the BEST tools for anyone who prints somewhat exotic or finicky materials. Uncap the glue and evenly coat the glass with a light coating and you are ready to go. When I say light, I mean just one pass over each spot, do not do more than one coat, that one coat is plenty! The best part is that it is disappearing, so when you apply the glue and it still has a bit of moisture, it is a dark purple, however once it sits for about 30 seconds on a bed that is heating up it loses its color and becomes more translucent so you can see exactly what parts of the bed are coated well and which parts you may need to touch up. When the glue has lost its color and the glass looks like it is a bit hazy or foggy then you are ready to print!


PETG can be a bit tricky to print if you are coming from PLA but it is very rewarding once you dial it in.


I would suggest that you either use a low fan setting of 25% or less (except when bridging which should be 100%) or do not use the fan at all (again unless bridging). PETG is a material that wants to stay hot and slowly cool on its own. It does not like to be hit with a fan instantly after being laid down like PLA. PETG actually fuses itself together at the layers which makes it have extremely strong layer adhesion, whereas a properly formed PETG print cannot be separated at the layer lines because of this fusing effect. (This is why you NEVER print PETG directly onto PEI as it can fuse with the PEI and tear the PEI off of the bed.)

​

I would also suggest that you run a hotter bed temperature. I personally print PETG with a bed temp between 85 and 100, depending on the brand of PETG I am using.


There is one VERY important end of print step to safely and successfully print PETG. When the print is finished, DO NOT let the bed cool to ambient temperature while the print is still attached! You MUST set your end of G Code to reduce the bed temperature to about 60% of the temperature it was while printing. This is a very important step so that your piece does not break your glass bed! This is especially important as the printed pieces get larger and have a larger contact surface with the bed. If you allow the print and glass bed to cool to ambient on their own then you are dramatically increasing the chance that the print will cool too rapidly and shrink while still attached to the glass and end up breaking the glass.


This may seem like a lot of things to do to print PETG but when you see the final result and how strong and beautiful PETG can be printed it is all well worth the effort.

​

One final tip about PETG is that it is very hygroscopic (not as bad as Nylon but still noticeable and much worse than PLA) and needs to be taken care of for it to print well. PETG needs to be stored in airtight bags with desiccant packs while it is being stored. PETG should never be left out in the open air for longer than it needs to be. If the roll is not currently supplying a print then it MUST be stored properly. If you allow your PETG to sit out and absorb the water from the air, it will print very poorly and never give good results. If you are printing PETG and can hear a crackling or hissing sound at the nozzle, then your PETG is too wet and needs to be fixed! The crackling and hissing sound that can be heard is the water that has been absorbed by the PETG being instantly boiled and turned to steam when it hits the hotend. This is most noticeable with Nylon but poorly kept PETG will also exhibit this same behavior.

​

If you have any questions or need me to clarify something please ask and I will gladly do my best to help! PETG is well worth the hassle and learning curve as the results that can be achieved with it are truly amazing.

I get all my fleece from JoAnn stores. They often have fleece at 50% off per yard, so you can buy it in bulk and use it as needed. Any large fabric store will have lots of fleece in stock (I just prefer JoAnn because that's the best one I have in the area I live in). I'm sure you know this already, but just in case, please don't use cedar or pine chips as bedding for your rats; it's harmful to them. You can use fleece or aspen chip bedding (but freeze the aspen for 48 hours prior to use to make sure it's free of parasites).

I buy many rat toys on Amazon, and make some myself. If you're buying any kind of wooden rat toy, do be aware that many of them are made from soft woods like pine and cedar, which are super bad for rat respiratory systems. Hardwood toys are usually safe—just make sure it's not a combination wood that also has pine or cedar in it along with the hardwood. I personally do not buy wood toys on amazon, because the products often don't list what kind of wood they're made of. The only wood product I buy on Amazon is bags of untreated apple branch chewing sticks. I'll link you to some rat-safe toys and accessories I buy on amazon below! :)

Kaytee Lava Ledge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00176F466/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

15" Chin Spin - Small Animal Exercise Wheel - Handmade in USA (Expensive, but it's the very best and safest wheel for rats.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ6SDBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bright Starts Lots of Links Accessory Toy (Great for hanging things up in the cage.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ABZGU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

Small Animal Activity Toy Cotton Rope Net For Rat and Ferret Pet Bed for Parrot and Hamster Parrot
https://www.amazon.com/Animal-Activity-Cotton-Ferret-Hamster/dp/B0777NWKT9/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1519011945&sr=1-2&keywords=rat+rope+net

Kaytee Igloo Hideout, Large
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ACCO Binder Clips, Medium, 2 Boxes, 12/Box (A7072050) (If using fleece as the bedding/liner in your cage, this helps to secure fleece to the Critter Nation pans.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQ8FDB8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dr. Bronner's Pure-Castile Liquid Soap - Baby Unscented, 32oz. (I don't use any scented products with my rats since rat respiratory systems are so fragile, so this is the non-scented liquid soap I use to wash my hands and their non-fabric toys.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DAI76TC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pawliss Teeth Grinding Lava Block for Hamster Chinchilla Rabbit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGHA6VW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aspen/Booda Corporation BBX56134 Byrdy Cable Cross Bird Toy, Medium
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WRHTG6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

200g(7oz) Apple Sticks Pet Snacks Chew Toys for Guinea Pigs Chinchilla Squirrel Rabbits Hamster(About 50-70 Sticks) by MAIYUAN (The only wood product I buy on Amazon.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WLL641Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ware Manufacturing Fun Tunnels Play Tube for Small Pets (Medium.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LUMU9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ware Manufacturing Plastic Scatterless Lock-N-Litter Small Pet Pan- Colors May Vary (Regular size, not jumbo.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SLICDA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

JW Comfy Perch for Birds (Large, 36".)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR754/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lixit Critter Space Pod 2 Large (You can hand these on the ceiling of the Critter Nation. My boys LOVE these!)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002X2NBNQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lixit Lbg-16 Glass Small Animal Bottle 16 Oz (16oz is always best for rats because of the bigger water spout. I've found that smaller bottles are a struggle for my boys to get water out of, so I only use the small ones for rat carriers/transporter cages. Tip: filtered water is best for rats, so if you can, get a Britta water filter.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WYCFK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yummy Time Tiny Small Stoneware Pet/Dog Bowl
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAUMYDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I buy Harlan Teklad (Envigo) food blocks for my rats, which is one of the top two for rats (the other is Oxbow Regal Rat). Harland Teklad is hard to find though, so I buy mine through this animal rescue:
http://weecompanions.org/healthy-food

If you get these blocks, freeze them to extend their shelf life, and take them out from the freezer as needed to fill your ratties' bowls. Harlan Teklad is great because they have several formulas for rats based on their age, which is super helpful for their health. Young rats up to 8 months usually eat Harlan Teklad 2016 (16% protein), and after 8 months they eat Harlan Teklad 2014 (14% protein).

Also, I don't have a link for this, but the best laundry detergents to use to wash your rats' cloth toys or bedding with is one that's non-scented and is sensitive on skins.

Um, if I think of anything else, I'll add it. But for now, it's already a ton. :P Enjoy!

(And feel free to message me if you have any questions!)

Yup, link worked fine. Lets figure this out.

You've got a M3D, which as /u/Keebie81 said isn't the best. If I understand it has proprietary software which could make things difficult, but we'll see what we can do.

So first off lets get some background information. What kind of filament are you using? ABS, PLA, or something else? Can you get us some idea of what settings you're using? Take screenshots of every setting page you can find so we can see what settings you have now and what extra things we have to tweak.

Just taking a look at it, it seems like you're having adhesion problems (which can be fixed with treating the print surface appropriately and fine-tuning your Z-height) and warping problems (which are usually material and temperature related).

*

We can try to take a crack at adhesion first. There's three big parts to this: making sure you've got a good surface, making sure the surface is treated with the right stuff to get maximum stick, and then making sure your nozzle is close enough to the printer to get the filament down right.

On the first point: painter's tape is a good, cheap bed surface that seems to work great for a lot of people. I use this stuff. There might be blue painter's tape somewhere in a janitor's closet or shop room somewhere, but you might have to go get some yourself. First clean off your bed surface with alcohol and a good cloth that won't leave anything behind, then lay down your strips nice and flat with no air bubbles and as little gap between them as possible. I also use a putty knife to smooth it all flat.

On the second point: getting your bed surface (and z-height) can be enough, but you can get extremely good sticking with a good bed treatment. There are two popular methods: glue sticks or hair spray. (Take a look at the "Customers who bought this also bought..." for the hair-spray, it's not what you'd expect for a beauty product.) I use that hair spray, and spray a cloth which i then wipe onto the painter's tape for a nice, even coat. You can pick some up at CVS, and I'm sure you have glue sticks laying around at school.

Finally: adjusting your z-height. This is going to be slightly hardware dependent so I may not be a ton of help here, but you have to be really precise in where your nozzle homes to. Heat up your printer (so it's thermally expanded to it's "printing" size), take a piece of white printer paper, put it under the nozzle, then land the nozzle. Now grab one edge of the paper with two hands and try to push and pull the paper. If you can easily move it without feeling any resistance from the nozzle, your nozzle tip is too high and needs to be lowered. If the paper is pinched in place and only bunches up when you try to push it, you are too low and need to raise the nozzle. If you can move it but feel a slight resistance** from the nozzle without it actually bunching up, then you're golden.

Here's a quick tutorial! Do give me a shout if you need clarification of any parts of it!

To make a cover for your cth480 you'll need to find a glass supplier that can cut you a sheet of 2mm glass sheet to 123x205mm.

The prices, quality and precision of the cutting can vary a lot between suppliers and you may need to search around for one that doesn't have a minimum order size.

If you search google maps for glass suppliers, you should be able to find a fair few local suppliers close to where you live!

.

When you get the glass cut, the edges will be very sharp, so you'll need to smooth over everything to make it safe/comfortable to use.
I've experimented with different ways of doing this, but on a small scale, the most effective method I've found has been to use some fabric backed wet/dry sandpaper in the 300-350grit range stuck with double sided tape to a hard smooth surface such as a granite chopping board, or a hard kitchen work surface.

Ideally you'd want some sort of diamond abrasive, but they're more expensive, and harder to get hold of. Sandpaper will work fine for a one off though, but you may want at least one or two spare sheets, as the hard glass sheet will wear down the sandpaper very quickly!

Also, be sure to have something soft to put the sheet down on when you're working so that you don't inadvertently scratch the surface by putting it down on a piece of grit from the grinding process.


.


When it comes to sanding, first off wet the sand paper, this helps the sand paper cut more smoothly as well as keeping the glass dust down. You want to avoid breathing any of the dust if possible!

Hold the glass sheet at around 45 degrees to the sand paper and, applying light pressure, make circular motions to grind the edge down. Your first aim should be to dull all of the sharp edges of the sheet left over from the cutting! This should only take a few strokes over the paper to do!

Decide which side of the sheet you want to be the top. This side will need to be beveled so that it's comfortable to use! Depending how much beveling you want, you can remove as much or as little of the edge as you want.

You can also round off the edges and corners of the cover. I'd recommend doing so if you can work out how to, but I'm not sure how to describe the process without making a video about it.

Once you're done with the grinding you'll want to clean off the cover the same way you'd clean normal glassware!

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If you want to have the low friction surface finish, then you'll need to get hold of some silicone spray lubricant, you can spray it on the surface and then buff it on with a glasses cloth or some kitchen towel.

The main advantage of the surface finish is that it gets rid of the 'break in' period for the cover. The clean glass cover can start off a bit sticky and takes a little while to become nice and smooth without the silicone finish. You could alternatively rub some candle wax over the surface as a substitute for the spray though.


.

As for attaching the cover to the tablet, so long as the cover doesn't slide around on the tablet it's fine, you could use glue, double sided tape, or any other method you want to stop it moving around.

You could even use something like this on the corners of the cover if you wanted it to be easily removable!

.

hopefully you'll understand some of what I've said in the wall of text that this has become, but do feel free to ask me about any parts of it if you need some clarification or more info!

It's hard to pick something without knowing what she likes so I'll go generic!

• A nice candle in a scent she likes
  
• Wax Melts if she has a burner (Or you can get her a nice burner if she doesn't!)
  
• Salt Scrub (this stuff is amazing for getting rid of dead skin! It makes you feel sooo smooth.)
  
• If she likes birds, a bird feeder would get her some more activity in the backyard
  
• If she already has a bird feeder, you could get her a bird house! You can never have enough of those.
  
• Find something they like that they are running out of and buy them a replacement!
  
  I'm sorry if it wasn't too helpful. Maybe if you share some of your mom's hobbies I can get more specific. :)
  If you enjoy my ideas, I would enjoy some Kitty bag clips.

I believe my two sticks are heavier than your 3D Pro. I used to have a "Logitech Wingman Extreme Digital 3D" (just a bizarre name).

Anyway... when AC 0.8 came out way back when, I had the same issue with my Wingman sliding around. Then, someone on this sub recommended using Scotch Restickable Dots.

I bought one of those giant "mouse" pads that takes up almost the entire length of my desk, slapped some dots under it to firmly lock it to the desk, then put dots on the corners of my sticks and slap them onto the mouse pad. My sticks don't move. It's quick, easy, and the dots are washable/reusable. The only thing that happens is my giant mouse pad tends to slide up over time. Maybe once every few months, I have to redo the dots that hold it to the desk.

Some people use velco or hook-n-loop fasteners. Yes, those would give you a strong hold but require you to attach (semi-permanently) one side of the velcro to the desk. I didn't want that. The Dots are sticky but come up easily and leave no residue. The force I exert on the sticks while playing is enough to keep the dots stuck to my pad.

I've researched some serious long term mounting solutions, but I have some very strict requirements.

1. It needs to be stable and secure and not wobble or shift.
   
2. It needs to be quickly and easily removable or movable because my computer is my office/work computer first. I can't have flight sticks in my way.
   
   I stumbled upon the RAM Mounts product line. Seems mostly perfect for my needs... VERY secure AND lockable/movable/adjustable. BUT, it's a bit more than I want to spend... so that's on hold.

I (the OP) always just use Elmer’s White Glue-All and it works perfectly. It sticks well to both the foam edges and the paper tops of the foam board, it’s super easy to wipe off if you use too much, and if you get it on yourself you can just rub it right off with friction. It’s cheap, effective, and you can find it virtually anywhere.

Also, make sure you use good foam board (again, I prefer Elmer’s 5mm) and you shouldn’t have much issue with warping.

>I can imagine you doing that XD (having a sticky note on my hammer)

I always laugh at myself when I do, but it works! : )

>I don't keep sticky notes at home.

We were talking about adhesives. This is a fun one. It makes any paper into a sticky note. : )

>I'll figure out the sandwich thing. It's in my enormous list of food bookmarks XD

Perfect!!

BECAUSE I'M IN A HOLLY JOLLY FRIGGEN MOOD


okay I'll calm down now. I just love everything about Christmas, but the last two years have been pretty crappy for me. I try to make the best of it, but the best part lately is booze filled hot cocoa and cookies.

here's 3 ideas:

one || two || three

I've seen a few of these built, so I wanted to give them a try. Flew some sorties tonight and pretty happy with them so far. Really nice to have something which can be removed easily when I'm done.

3" Drill Press Vice

Steel brackets

Extreme Velcro

I found this extreme velcro on a whim and it's awesome. It adheres to anything and locks your stick/throttle down tight, yet can still be removed when you are done. I used it to attach my IR clip to the headphones, and it's great there also.

Boards are simply a cheap bamboo cutting board I got at Walmart and sawed in two. Add the bolts and screws and I'd say this whole thing was less than $50.

Maybe be aware the brackets are on the small side, so if you want something that will hang lower, you'll want to look at something different.

Edit: just wanted to say....you'll need to wipe down the vices when you get them. They are covered with a light oil to prevent rusting I'd guess. Take a rag and give them quick wipe all over (the jaws too, they will leave a mark on your desk!)

Codename Duchess What what a great contest! That's some great gifting and very generous! Here's my add ons based on the prices they are today:

1. 2.40
   
2. 2.59
   
3. 4.99
   
4. 4.95
   
5. 5.30
   
6. 5.24
   
   =25.47
   
   Thanks for the contest!
   

This is my 10oz luxury kitchen

https://www.traildesigns.com/products/fissure-ti-tri

with wood burning insert and kojin stove

With Evernew 760 mug
EVERNEW 760FD Titanium Cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C6H8KX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qhRKDbDR8GG4E

and this lid
TOAKS Titanium Lid for TOAKS Cups... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BTZ7RM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And this dry baking pan (yes you can!)
https://www.flatcatgear.com/shop/snow-leopard-baking-pan/

this esbit holder
https://www.flatcatgear.com/shop/epicurean-ul15-stove/

This alcohol stove
https://www.minibulldesign.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=301&idcategory=18

This silicone band to hold it all together (just one X band)
Grifiti Band Joes Cross Style 4, 6, 9, 12 Inch Assorted 20 Pack X Shape Wrist, Books, Cameras, Art, Cooking, Wrapping, Exercise, Bag Wraps, Dungies, Silicone Rubber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WQII2A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YwRKDbP7626DD


Mug + cone + wood burning insert + esbit holder + baking pan + remote alcohol stove + mini bic lighter + tinder = 10.2 oz and it ALL fits inside the can (yep, all at the same time)


Yes, all up its pretty heavy but you’ll almost never need or want to have all the options on a single trip but you could. More importantly, with this one kit you can adapt for a trip in any environment with any fuel and you can bake stuff in it too

BONUS!
this mug will also fit a BRS 3000T stove, bic lighter, and a 100g butane canister inside (but not at the same time as all the other stuff)
BRS Only 25g BRS-3000T Ultra-Light Titanium Alloy Camping Stove Gas Stoves Outdoor Cooker Outdoor Stove Gas Stove Miniature Portable Picnic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNLSNFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LsRKDbZ47R6HQ

I have 3 I use for different applications. First being mentioned here a few times, because best.

Tacky glue. I use the gold bottle it's great, sicks nearly instantly, stays tacky for a few minutes in case of adjustments or removal. I use it for structural building. Most used glue. Applied with a toothpick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHGYZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KCkVCb7WCDCNA

Gorilla glue gell. I use this super glue for small details. Places where I don't really have a tab. I use this glue to make the paper solid and stronger. Great glue, the gell makes a difference. I only buy gell now. Applied with a piece of wire. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQTG9E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KEkVCbTVSCR3Y

Classic Elmer's glue. I use this for parts that dont matter. If I need to layer some pieces. I dont use this often but its nice to have when I dont wanna waste my nicer stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012XO26AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LFkVCbP7T0FX0

Double sided tape would work if it's strong enough. Something like this stuff.

What case do you have? You may be better off using the side panel fan as intake so it gives your GPU fresh, cool air.

12" silicone X bands

I have been satisfied with these on Dominion, Five Tribes, Escape. Also, I'd read somewhere that the silicone will not degrade over time and stick/melt into the boxes.

The 9" bands do well for Race for the Galaxy, Leaving Earth etc.

Wish I had seen this Assorted sizes pack before now. The small ones are probably great for little games like Chronicle.

Edit: More links.

I'm pretty sure you'd be better off making your own; you can buy the bands for dirt cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Latex-free-Silicone-Refill-Bands-1800pcs/dp/B00F3TKLRA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407017421&sr=8-1&keywords=loom+bands

I'm glad that you like my design though! :)

not sure where you are but if you do a basic google you can probably find someone that will make a custom sticker like that or a type of vinyl

also https://www.amazon.co.uk/Elmers-231-Wrinkle-Rubber-Transparent/dp/B000EFQ2I0 is great, its like a non stick glue where you can peel the photos off without ripping the paper once its dry

Sounds like there could be some RF interference.

Try this USB hub and put the hub closer to where your controller will be, and then plug the MS dongle into that.

I have one on my desk with my Logitech keyboard and mouse dongles and it's worked great.

(Note it's USB2 on purpose, USB3 has been known to cause interference with wireless devices)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4YBR3Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Secondary tip:

If you put that USB hub on your desk and want it to stay put, these are great temporary fasteners:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y17T70/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I agree. Industrial Velcro is incredibly strong, and if you properly clean the surface before applying the velcro, it'll last forever.
Plus, it has the added benefit of not adding more holes to your boat.

There are a few "rifle" and pistol styles made by companies, but in all honestly they are far too small and silly looking for a man to carry around. They don't really have the shape and look of a flintlock or matchlock/wheel-lock firearm. I have made most of mine by hand. For a long rifle, I used a 2x12 and cut it to the shape I wanted (looked online to find a pattern that I liked then glued a plastic clothespin at the back of the barrel location. You'll have to order some larger heavy duty rubber bands or make your own with surgical tubing.

Here is a link for the type of bands I use for my musket.
http://www.amazon.com/Alliance-SuperSize-Resealable-Containing-Inches/dp/B0017D16PW/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1418397209&sr=1-3&keywords=rubber+bands+12

I'll post a picture of some pistols i'm working on later.

I actually used magnetic sheets.

They have an adhesive side but I just stapled them to the wall using a thin caliber staple gun. To be honest I even cut those sheets in half and spaced them about a few inches apart. They are surprisingly strong and could hold more than 1 steelbook easily with half a sheet.

Try using a bit sticky tack to get the arms lined up as a dry fit before you glue, that way you're not trying to grow 3 extra hands and fidget with alignment that keeps shifting on you constantly. Use the tack to stick the pieces together, then you can adjust and remove the tack point by point when you're happy with their alignment and ready to glue.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blu-Tack-Adhesive-801103/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509542585&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetack

These glue sticks would be awesome. My kids go through glue sticks like crazy, especially doing crafts for the holidays, lol.

pay attention in class!

I plan on storing my seeds for years. Here's how I do it:

1. Drill a 3/4" hole in the lid of a 2 or 4 oz. baby food jar, using a Forstner bit. Tape over the hole with micropore tape on both sides. Fill the jar half-way with Damprid (calcium chloride). Silica gel only gets RH down to 40%, whereas CaCl2 lowers it to <25%. Stuff the rest of the jar with cotton and screw the lid on. I stick the baby food jar to the bottom of a pint- or quart-sized wide-mouth mason jar using these from Wallyworld.
   
   
2. Put the seeds in small ziploc baggies or breeder's packs inside the mason jar. Make sure they're slightly open and not airtight.
   
   
3. Put some oxygen absorber packets in there.
   
   
4. Put the lid on and vacuum seal the jar with one of these and a vacuum pump. You can use a Food Saver pump if you have one but I went with a cheaper option. I squirt some silicone in a ring around the lip for a better seal to the jar sealer.
   
   
5. Screw the jar ring on and store the mason jar in the fridge.
   
   This method takes care of the 3 things that lower seed viability--humidity, oxidation (with the oxygen absorbers and vacuum seal), and temperature. I also plan on saving herb for the long haul like this, but with 62% Boveda packs instead of the CaCl2.

As stated in my other post, I've had this thing running for over a month at 75c with no loss of cohesion

I'll have to do some checking if I ever go above that I'm sure, but for PLA and PETG it's been perfect

Looks like, to have a higher Curie temperature, you'd want to use thicker 60mil sheets

Quality shouldn't be affected but the cover is there to protect the (relatively fragile) lens on the webcam, it'll scratch more easily than the cover would and the cover will be easier to clean than the lens would. I would say if you have it, fix it, easily done and it will make your new Thinkpad look even better. ;)

If you have one of those epoxies that dries hard (like JB Weld) I'd go with that, some epoxies or quick-cure glues can fog the plastic, which would really mess with the video quality. If you don't want to run the risk of using the wrong glue, you could test a small amount on the cover first, or find some really thin double-sided tape to reattach it (something like this www.amazon.com/Scotch-Double-Dispenser-Inches-136/dp/B00004Z47L/). Just cut a piece to fit in the gap, and very carefully cut out the circular patterns with a fine, sharp blade. If you do go with glue/epoxy, just don't put too much on otherwise it'll ooze out the sides and make a real mess (or even worse, get on the lens.

Loud whistle - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FOJRF64/

Heavy duty velcro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O6T2ZS

Sugru throttle nub - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

I liked the recent post with the bicycle bell mod, really anything to enhance safety, especially in NYC, where jaywalkers cross roads diagonally with their heads buried in their phones and then proceed to do the "evade me" shimmy when they finally see you coming.

I use it sparingly, 120 dB is on the human pain threshold for hearing, so it's quite jarring. A quick toot toot tends to resolve most antsy situations, but a nice sustained hard whistle can even help you be heard from inside yellow cabs.

Oh gosh, my little boy is starting Kindergarten, then my fiancé and I both attend college which is starting back up.

Any of these things would be great! erasers, dry erase markers, or glue sticks

My guesses for your questions. Orange is the new black for the show,maybe Hunger Games for the movie. Animal Crossing for the game, and The Road for the book.

This contest is great. Bill Hader

I personally don't like things such as joker reveals or blurred cards, because to me it seems that the spectator would be able to tell that the card is just printed specifically, and while it may give an immediate wow factor won't really leave a sense of magic.

That said, I disagree with the idea that gaff cards aren't useful - using a double facer or double backer or something like Vogt's regeneration gimmick or Houchin's distortion gimmick can create wonders.

So I recommend you buy Blake Vogt's Split Sessions v1 and 2 which will set you back $9 and a tub of rubber cement which will be another $9 and make gaffs to fit your specific needs.

(though of course you may disagree with me completely, and buy the Blue Bike gaff deck - whatever fits your own style is best!)

What I would up getting was the following:

1. https://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/10159443/
   It is $12.99, and 14 ½x30 ¾. It will fit ten steelbooks, in the format I have shown, or horizontal.
   
   
2. 10 Adhesive Magnetic Sheets - 8.5" x 11" - 20 mil Magnet - Peel & Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOV4NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x8kJAbS1CSACN
   
   8.5” X 11” sheets, you will get two steelbooks out of one sheet, with some left over; not enough to cover another steelbook though. You will have to cut out to size what you need.
   
   
3. Command Damage Free Picture and Frame Hanging, Large Strips (30 Pairs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FEJ3OA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S-kJAbQ2KGK6D
   
   These are 16lbs rated. I placed four on each side of it (top and bottom) and it’s holding well.
   
   I will warn you, the board with the steelbooks is HEAVY.
   
   https://imgur.com/gallery/x2bFz
   
   This is one more photo to show how it looks.
   
   Good luck man!

I wanted a way to display the awesome steelbook art without taking up a lot of room. I looked at display racks, but they were expensive and bulky. Then I got to thinking about magnets. I did a quick test with a fridge magnet and sure enough the cases are magnetic! I went to amazon and bought these!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOV4NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xbQBxbMGK2891

Here's a great add-on item :)

It was super simple! I bought these magnet sticker sheets from Amazon — one of the reviewers said they used them for a magnetic palette and that the hold was strong enough: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2SE5KA/

Then I emptied out an old pencil case, and cut the magnet to be the right size. Pressed it into the bottom, and voila!

Didn't know if you knew about this guy: $0.58 Paper Clips to be used for Add-on

Only for if you find yourself just under the threshold for minimum shipping and don't want to pay shipping or buy a more expensive item to get free shipping.

CREDIT: That link and tip came to me by, I think, u/Ibabinz)

Get the 3M brand mounting tape. This is the exact solution I use for my magnetic strip. It works great. Here's a link.

Honestly, get a couple of big rubber bands like these and you'll probably be fine. What's the manufacturer and model of the shaker, maybe you can find something from there?

1.92

sara bareilles

thanks :)

I used this battle mat

Amazon Link

Some rubber cement

Amazon Link

Also some kind of sanded particle board from Lowes/Home Depot. I can't remember what it was called, but 1/8" thick. At the time I was in college and had access to the school's laser table and was able to cut using that. I couldn't see why a table saw wouldn't work though.

I made all the tiles powers of two (Computer engineer, can't help it). If I remember it was like 1x1, 1x2, 1x4, 2x2, 2x4, 2x8, 4x4, 4x8, and 8x8 tiles. You can do any other sizes or increments, that's just what I am most comfortable with.

Thanks. :) I use simple Blue Tack, leaves no stain cheap and reusable.

Bostik Blu-tack Original Mastic Putty Adhesive Non-toxic Blue 60g Ref 801103 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GoJADb7DE3GAM

That looks great. One thing I use on mine is a piece of stick on magentic strip along the edge of the top tier. I can tie a dozen flies, and cement all the heads at once. Plus, it keeps them from getting knocked around.

I used this, two strips on each about 2 inches long. Holding well so far! I used pretty much the entire roll for all of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017D16PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Better cheaper option. Also multiple sizes so you can use thicker filters which work better.

I used something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SVG2CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uRWvDbFCCXECM

The magnets are 1/2 inch wide and I needed 1/4 inch so I cut it lengthwise whenever I needed it. Hope that helps!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2SE5KA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its a metal door :)

http://i.imgur.com/812ZmTg.jpg

I usually turn everything i make into a magnet with those sheets, they work really well, but they do tend to fall off when the perler warps a bit, so i use glue to make sure they stay on.

Yeah, I was going to go with putty and cardstock, but I'm just trying to think if there was some other kind of paper that would be easier to stick on. I actually just found this restickable glue stick that apparently has an adhesive similar to Post-it notes, so I may look into that! Have to see how long the adhesive lasts tho

You can either pay this person £20 for 10 rubber bands, some image files, and some printed stuff, or buy 1800 rubber bands for $3.85.

Seems a pretty clear-cut choice for anybody capable to living without adult supervision.

I use these cross-style silicone bands! They work great for the IP.

Sure, but this would probably be easier to use.

Yes. It is tape that acts like a dry erase whiteboard. There is also chalkboard tape.

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Erase-White-1-88-Inch-5-Yard/dp/B00NBL3YR6
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Chalkboard-Black-1-88-Inch-5-Yard/dp/B00NBL3UVG

Yeah!

For those interested, I found these awhile back when I had a similar idea:

Chalk

Dry Erase

Get some Blu-tac; it's REALLY inexpensive and it as an excellent vibration insulator. Prevents feedback.

https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Blu-Tack-Adhesive-801103/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473996518&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=blu+tac+3m

I suppose you could remove the packaging between the shades (after removing them). Then gluing down or using magnetic stickers. I think it would make a beautiful custom palette.

You could use these:
https://www.amazon.com/10-Adhesive-Magnetic-Sheets-Magnet/dp/B004SOV4NQ

Those bands are Grifiti X bands, designed to keep game boxes closed during transit. I have them on a lot of my games, particularly ones that I take with me more frequently. They're not the best version for storage, because they're a little on the thick side. There are slimmer versions out there, but it's convenient to be able to buy a whole bunch of these in different sizes and colors, and they work well on non-game boxes as well.

My female Lovebird breaks out of every cage that has this type of door. Since she started plucking her mates head feathers I had to separate them, which doesn't work if she opens the doors herself.

I used "binder clips" to keep her locked in. She did get the handles of the clips off (not sure how she did that) but the clip itself stayed in place. Not sure if it's helpful with a cockatoo.

So far I've had luck with using squares I've cut from Adhesive Magnetized Sheets to hold plastic infantry to my metal-bottomed toolkit. I add a spot of white glue to help out the magnetic sheet adhesive.

sheets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SOV4NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Interesting. I use 1 or 2 of the sizes in this https://smile.amazon.com/Alliance-SuperSize-Resealable-Containing-Inches/dp/B0017D16PW/ref=pd_sim_229_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VSAZB9ZP7PJZK8C0BS5F (on mobile) and they don't warp or stress my box lids. 5 inches doesn't warp the larger boxes?

I'm in Australia and use a blue gluestick, but if you're in the US I've seen a lot of queens using the Elmers purple sticks. I buy the smallest size so that it's not much wider than my brow, so less clean up haha. https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-Washable-0-21-ounce/dp/B00143UIC2

Do you need it to be "permanent" as in survives shop use or "permanent" as in unable to be removed by a conniving employee?

If #2 then engraving is your best option. If #1 then I'd think about something that can identify the sets, but can also be changed by you as sets and tools get rearranged (if necessary).

It seems that if set 1 is missing a tool and set 2 has a tool that is missing its ID, then it's pretty easy to put 2 and 2 together. In other words, the IDs don't need to be permanent, they just need to be consistent.

The sell small silicone rubber bands in tons of colors. You could put some around every tool handle and then tell people that it's there responsibility to keep their set together and make sure that every tool in the set is identified. The silicone should be okay with most acids etc. And if, say, you need to downsize from 5 sets to 4 you can cut off the bands and reorganize.

That being said, a really conniving employee could buy their own bands and use them to steal other sets' tools.

I'm also battling nylon adhesion on a PEI bed. Best lead I've found so far is PLA glue.

Let us know if you get it sticking!

How much clearance do you need?

You can use magnetic tape to secure the glass panel to the case. The tape I linked is 2mm thick so you can get additional 4mm by using this tape on the glass and the case. It likely wouldn't be as secure as the original mounting mechanism. but it should be fine if you are not moving the case around.

Elmer's Rubber Cement has worked well enough for me. I like the cap's built-in brush. I glue indoors with meh ventilation.

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Rubber-Cement-No-Wrinkle-Ounces/dp/B000EFQ2I0

This is what I use. You can buy it at pretty much any office supply store, hobby lobby, wal-mart, etc. https://www.amazon.com/10-Adhesive-Magnetic-Sheets-Magnet/dp/B004SOV4NQ

Free Shipping Filler.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/9801337141/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

I got some kind of command heavy duty roll with no non sticky parts, rated up to 5lbs for huge pictures. Good to know that it works with the actual strips through.

(Edit: this)

Screwdriver or double-sided tape I find randomly useful. Also, erasable pens.

So you’re using just normal glue sticks? Like these?

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B001E69WBW

When I do labels, I have them printed from a PDF at some place that does the color laser printing, onto a good paper stock.

Then I use these - https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B001E69WBW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1486578385&sr=8-5&keywords=school+glue

They come off with a simple soak, and do not change or run the color. I don't use my inkjet as the moisture build up from chilling the bottles will cause the ink to run.

I just use Scotch indoor mounting tape and attach them straight to a wall. Works very well on most of my patches, although a few stubborn ones from my SpaceX patch collection keep falling off every few weeks or months. If they keep falling, just add more tape to cover a greater percentage of the backing surface area. Other non-SpaceX patches don't seem to fall off as easily, it's something about the iron-on backing material SpaceX uses which doesn't like adhering well to the tape.

elmers is great, six pack dirt cheap (http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearing-Purple-School-E1560/dp/B00143UIC2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453149823&sr=8-2&keywords=elmers+stick)

Sonya (my niece's name is Sonja hehe), your Momma wouldn't tell you this but...learn how to rock red lipstick when you get older :-D

my sonja is obsessed with these

Why not just use a double sided tape like this one. Or look into bookbinding specifically regarding gluing the spine. There is PVA glue designed for stuff similar to this.

I recently started using Scotch Indoor Mounting Tape, 1-Inch x 125-Inches, 1-Roll (314P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007P5G8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2K4ozbBQQ3846 and I've been extremely happy with the hold on heavier metal figs. I have to pop the base off with a knife, but the mini stays put.

Life Pro Tip - we use binder clips in the kitchen to keep those inner bags rolled up tightly and our food fresh.

We use 'em in the freezer, the pantry - everywhere

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

• Scotch Blue Tape
  
• Elmers Stick Glue
  
• Digitial Caliper
  
• Mirco Cutter
  
• Palette Knifes
  
• Nozzle cleaning kit
  
• 2 rolls of Hatchbox 1.75mm PLA, green and grey
  
  I have a set of exacto knives and a screw bit set. Is there anything else im missing?

You should get the SF450 with the Node 202. Use double sided mounting tape for the SSD.

You won't be hitting over 300W with most Node 202 build. The SF450 is noticeably better quality, quieter, and is modular. The FD Integra may work for a locked i3/i5 + 1060 or 1050, but anymore than that you should get the SF450.

Magnetize them; buy a kit for doing so from Amazon...that and a metal used lap desk or playing card surface and you're on your way

Two decks of taro cards, some glue, scissors and patience and you should be able make a magnetic "tarot sandwich", albeit, ending up with a thicker card...

https://www.amazon.com/10-Adhesive-Magnetic-Sheets-Magnet/product-reviews/B004SOV4NQ

I've been looking for shelves, Magnetic strips for tools, and finally saw the post with the gaming steelbooks and the OP provided a link to these sheets on Amazon.

Magnetic Sheets

Use Blu Tack! 2 x Bostik Blu Tack Mastic Adhesive Putty Non Toxic Blue approx 60g 801103 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A07TDb049R108

An Apple genius told me it’s what they use and it’s amazing for me. I was so embarrassed to show my nasty AirPods case before. Now I just put this gummy like substance anywhere and it picks anything up.

So, just realized my niece makes custom fridge magnets out of magnetic sheets, and magnetic tape,
https://www.amazon.com/10-Adhesive-Magnetic-Sheets-Magnet/dp/B004SOV4NQ/ref=pd_cp_201_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004SOV4NQ&pd_rd_r=f4a40075-bdbc-11e8-baee-c185d6b5ce16&pd_rd_w=vIPx7&pd_rd_wg=y9Rti&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3f5155f5-5438-4fc3-ab83-bf013cfc8883&pf_rd_r=32XQYT4WA504599VFQBE&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=32XQYT4WA504599VFQBE

could probably buy sheets and use that to make your own magnetic backing.

Hm. This patch kit costs $3.50, and has six patches. The round ones (4) are 25mm.

Rubber cement is $5, though there's also a gallon for $30. The cost of sandpaper for these purposes is negligible. A tube is maybe $5, and probably has enough rubber to make 29 2.5" square patches. Or ~63.5 mm. So plenty big enough to cut down into 146 square 25 mm patches. I'm measuring this based on a Specialized 700C x 28/38 tube, so you could probably increase that by buying the biggest tube you can find.

I can't really say anything about how the sticking power of these patches compare, but when you think about a tube's place in the tire, it likely wouldn't matter.

EDIT: changed some patch math

heavy duty velcro like this

$2 gets you 12 binder clips.

One these work?
1
2
3

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOV4NQ/

I go vertical and sometimes keep the lid on with these cross band elastics Grifiti Bands Cross Style 4, 6, 9, 12 Inch Assorted 20 Pack X Shape Wrist, Books, Cameras, Art, Cooking, Wrapping, Exercise, Bag Wraps, Dungies, Silicone Rubber https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018WQII2A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BmfEAbKX20SYK

All you Britons out there! Start sealing your envelopes with duct tape. Or this incredibly sticky mounting tape. Would be almost impossible to open the envelope without leaving evidence of tampering.

Rubber Cement + printout = indellible sticker.

Is this the tape you used? https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Double-Dispenser-Inches-136/dp/B00004Z47L/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486773466&sr=8-8&keywords=clear+double+sided+tape

maybe this? https://www.amazon.com/10-Adhesive-Magnetic-Sheets-Magnet/dp/B004SOV4NQ

[Double-Sided Tape] (http://www.amazon.com/Double-Sided-Dispenser-Permanent-Inches-Clear/dp/B00004Z47L)

I present my new invention: rubber glue

same

There's removable/restickable glue sticks similar to what is on Post-It's.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOV4NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2SSBxbMC2ZTA0

Newest items first

Taurus 709 Slim: http://www.taurususa.com/product-details.cfm?id=588&category=Pistol

Black Tiger Bicycle Deck: http://www.ellusionist.com/bicycle-black-tiger-decks.html

Spyderco Delica 4 Sky Blue: https://www.amazon.com/Spyderco-Delica4-Lightweight-Ground-PlainEdge/dp/B0052HQPWS

MCPocket Wallet: https://mcpocket.com/en/mcpocket.html

Thorkey - Black leather Key organizer: https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Compact-Key-Organizer-ThorKey/dp/B01DKS65G6

Simple 3M clip for Business Cards: https://www.amazon.com/Brands-Binder-Clips-Medium-A7072050/dp/B00TQ8FDB8/ref=sr_1_4?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1491008178&sr=1-4&keywords=binder+clip

Caseology Parallax GS7 case for Samsung Galaxy S7: https://www.amazon.com/Caseology-Parallax-Textured-Pattern-Samsung/dp/B01BE993DU/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491008193&sr=1-8&keywords=parallax+case

Adhesive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOV4NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2SSBxbMC2ZTA0

Before I had stands for my pathfinder pawns I used these

You can put the pawn in the clip and detach the metal bits until you are done.

I used rubber cement. I painted the page with it and laid the tissue paper down. I prefer it to glue for journaling - it doesn’t wrinkle.

Blue-tack.
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-Mastic-Adhesive-approx-801103/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_229_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y2DE49D3TD74PFZQP1BF

I've used it before and it doesn't tear the maps, and you only need a tiny amount.

2 x Bostik Blu Tack Mastic Adhesive Putty Non Toxic Blue approx 60g 801103 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I42EOJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Cli.Ab3Q3918K

10 Adhesive Magnetic Sheets - 8.5" x 11" - 20 mil Magnet - Peel & Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SOV4NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hSG8AbHTNXW9T

You will probably need a powered usb hub to connect the drives. Not absolutely necessary but the Pi only has two usb ports (the micro b port is just for power to the Pi) and cannot power notebook drives directly. Plus, the extra ports on a hub will allow you to connect your drives, a mouse, a keyboard, and a Wi-Fi card; all at the same time.

The case I have been using is the [Punnet printable case.] (http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/1310)

I did not have any heavy card stock to print it on. So I printed the case on regular paper and glued it to some thin cardboard from a box of crackers. To keep the glue from wrinkling the paper, I used a "school glue" style glue stick. You can find glue sticks almost anywhere that sells office or craft supplies. Then I cut it out with scissors and a razor knife.

Amazon has them available, I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B2SE5KA/

60mm thickness is the key, and can cut it using a standard hobby knife.

That's no problem. They also make thin magnetic sheets so you can just place them on the wall, this is how im planning on hanging them. Here's the link on amazon if interested. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SOV4NQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After years of tape, I changed to putty. But then I found this:

https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Restickable-8-inch-18-Dots-R105/dp/B007Y17T70/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519050026&sr=8-4&keywords=3m+sticky+dots

I've had the same set of stickies on my markers for over 6 weeks. They are totally washable ( when you're washing your hands), add just a drop of soap and rub them. You can feel the grime coming off of them. Then, I just let them dry for about 10 minutes. I keep them on a piece of film/plastic in my pocket. Life changing. They are very thin, so I doubled them on my marker to make it easier to use.

I use Elmer's All Purpose School Glue Sticks, Clear, Washable, 4 Pack, 0.24-ounce sticks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E69WBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.UmGAbVBPRXYY

Dirt cheap and since using them I've never had a print break loose.

I used this double sided mounting tape to put them on the ceiling, link. I cut half inch squares and put three on each panel.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SOV4NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used those sheets and cut them into 4 evenly pieces. They're adhesive magnetic sheets so 1 side you use to stick on the wall, and the other side you stick the steel books to.

I used some extra tape to prevent the adhesive tape to fall off due to the weight of the steel books. The magnets themselves are very strong so it really holds them in place.

EDIT: If you need visual aids, I live streamed the entire process minus me cutting the sheets into pieces:

https://www.twitch.tv/videos/498237626

Once in a while you can see the adhesive fail due to the weight of the steel books hence the use of tape for reinforcement.

I've got a roll of this just for sticking power strips to desks and shit without having to do any planning.

I'm installing some panelboard [1] to use dry erase board in my room, which I'm renting (and thus cannot drill). Will Velcro brand extreme outdoor strips [2] (which I already bought and used for one panel) damage my walls when I remove them? If so, how would I go about semi-safe removal / fixing the wall before I lose my security deposit?

[1] https://www.lowes.com/pd/DPI-47-75-in-x-7-98-ft-Smooth-White-Panelboard-Hardboard-Wall-Panel/3015239
[2] https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Extreme-Outdoor-Titanium/dp/B001O6T2ZS