(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best hand tools

I think you should pick up another straight that has been honed to shave ready. Larry at Whipped Dog has some very affordable blades that are supposed to be shave ready. You can use this as a measure to getting your blade up to snuff.

Also, technique may be an issue. But you've been shaving a while....

If you can't get it keen on a 4K, you may need to set that bevel again... There is no formula for bevel setting, just a feeling. I'd blunt the blade on a thumbnail, then hone until you can easily pop hair with the edge. Then, move up a measured progression like pyramid honing.

Here's a copy past I did you might find useful:

Equipment Essentials

• A pro honed razor at your side. You need to compare the sharpness of the razor you're working on, with the sharpness of a razor that is shave ready. This will decrease your learning curve considerably. You're working blind otherwise.
  
  

• DMT flattening stone. Your hones don't ship flat, and you must even them out to ensure a smooth edge. Flattening before every use is a good idea. If you don't want to buy the DMT, use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and atop piece of marble/glass.
  
  
• Norton 4K/8K A popular choice for general honing, and can perform a laborious restoration/bevel set (if you do more than a few razors, get the 1k below to set a bevel).
  
  
• A jewelers loop to see what happens to the blade as you hone, polish, stop and shave. I feel watching the scratch patterns of a straight razor bevel change is a critical educational step in straight razor bevel maintenance.
  
  
• Chromium Oxide on a strop for final polish, or a diamond pasted strop.
  
  
  Honing Supplies for Restoring a Few Straights
  
  
• If you end up honing a few razor from antique stores or ebay, it's good to have a stone dedicated to bevel setting. This stage is 50% of the sharpening process, so it pays to have quality gear at this level King 1000 K For bevel setting on a budget (beware, it's a slow cutter). Or a nice bevel setter like this Chosera.
  
  
  
• Niawa 12K For a nice final polishing of your razor. 8K is fine, but this puts a great edge on your blade.
  
  To hone:
  
  First, you need to flatten your stone, making sure you've removed the top 1/64th or so of stone material to reach the true grits (the top is a bit rough on Nortons especially).Make sure your stone is perfectly flat. Use the DMT or the sandpaper I described above for this.
  
  Next, clean your SR in soap/warm water. Dry it, and put a piece of electrical tape along the spine and fold it over (like a book binding) if you'd like (not necessary, and I don't do this, but some prefer the look of the end product).
  
  I like to clear the edge of possible errand burs before I hone, so I drag the shaving edge against my thumbnail or a glass bottle. These burs can cause issues, and may make for a rough feeling edge. I've found that this is a good way to remove them. It may be unnecessary for some/most blades, but it's part of my bevel setting routine, and by doing this, I've notice good things and increased consistency when I hone.
  
  Now, to hone. You're going to get your razor sharp in these stages:
  
  

• Set the bevel (establish the sharp edge shape)
  
• Polish the bevel (polish the shape you created earlier)
  
• True the bevel (strop the bevel to make sure the edge is very uniform)
  
  Setting the bevel:
  
  While all steps are important, this step is foundational. Place your razor on your bevel setting stone, keeping the razor spine and edge completely flat on the surface togehter. Do tiny circle strokes (circular motion down the hone) so you do about 30-40 tiny circles as you move own the bottom hone. Repeat on the other side of the razor, moving up the hone in the opposite direction (and counter-wise circle direction). Now do 15 x strokes. This is a set.
  
  Repeat doing these sets until you can shave hair on your arm or leg by very slowly grazing over the tops of the hair - it should catch and cut with a bit of a tug.
  
  It will take many many of these sets with a 4k stone, and less with a 1K.
  
  Once you can shave hair on your arm or leg all along the bevel (toe to heel) with uniform sharpness and cutting, you may be set. Do another 10 or so x-strokes, very lightly, very perfectly as a final sharpening for your bevel. See if this helps your edge.
  
  Once you're happy with your bevel, strop it and shave. If it's painful, it's likely your bevel isn't set. If it's decent, you're ready to move on.
  
  Polishing the bevel
  
  Now move up to polishing. On the 4K and do 35 light x strokes. Go to the 8K and do 35 light x-strokes. Repeat this back and forth going 4K 30, 8K 30. Now keep this up, decreasing the stroke number by 5. When you're at 10 strokes, just do 25 on the 8K.
  
  Always check for sharpness along the edge by trimming a bit of arm hair. You'll learn a lot from an edge by doing this.
  
  Following the grits up in this fashion should give you a fairly polished bevel. It's best to go higher than 8K with a high grit chinese hone from a woodworking store, or a naninwa 12k, but 8K will do for now.
  
  Truing the edge:
  
  Strop about 30 passes on your chromium oxide, clean the blade, and the perform 200 passes on leather - all spine leading, done very lightly.
  
  The Shave
  
  After all this, you should have a great edge. Give it a test shave and compare it to your pro honed blade.
  
  While honing, you'll likely get frustrated, but keep at it! If you're getting aggressive with the razor, just give it a break, and come back later. If the shave is no good, post back here and we'll help you diagnose.
  
  
  Some thoughts:
  
  I tired to present information that's very searchable. Straight razor place has archived many of the ideas that I just presented. I highly recommend researching on your own and reaching a personal conclusion. What follows are my personal opinions.
  
  This equipment I suggest is not necessarily the best, nor is it bad at all. It's great way to get started and find out what you like in a stone/routine. Some ideas to consider if you upgrade your set:
  
  
• Try a natural stone for a finisher. I use a vintage Thuringian hone called an Barber's Delight Escher.
  
• Upgrade your progression by adding various in-between grits. I really like going from a Chosera 1K, to Shapton Pro (not glass version) 2K, 5K, 8K, 15K, then finish.
  
• Try finishing a blade with a pasted strop, and try without. Some love one over the other.
  
  The back and forth honing I recommend is a honing series called pyramid honing, where you go between two different grit hones to ensure you don't form a wire edge or a bur. I like to recommend this for folks getting into honing since this is one of the most documented methods for get a razor to shave ready from a bevel set. A quick google search on pyramid honing will give you plenty of reading. I don't hone this way any more.
  
  I highly recommend honing your razor as sharp as possible on one stone, strop as I've outlined, and give it a shave. For example, sharpen as much as you can at the 4K stage, and strop it 200 times. If it shaves ok, you're on the right track. If not, you've got more work to do at that level of stone. You'll be amazed that such a low grit can shave so well. If it's painful to shave after your lowest stone.... you're not done, and moving up the stones will not benefit your edge. Repeating this process of shaving up all the stone grits (4K, 8K, 12K) will help you get a feel for what honing at the different levels provide. Shaving off my 1K bevel provided me the biggest leap in edge quality while learning.
  
  Don't limit your techniques. Once you can confidently bring a restored razor to shave with consistency, I'd recommend playing around and experimenting. Though this, I've developed some strokes that are critical to my routine, and used effectively with every blade I sharpen.
  

Trying to stick with Amazon...

General: do not get no-name generic Chinese tools. These will fail in no time.

Cheap tools are the more expensive. Partly through the damage they cause and the time they waste, and partly because you're going to throw them away and get the good ones anyway eventually.

Get some good screwdrivers. Yellow plastic handles with rubber grips. Stanley used to be good, but apparently not any more. Most screwdriver sets contain more screwdrivers than you need. Klein seems to be the brand to get now, but they're quite expensive. I'm not a fan of multi-bit drivers, but this one looks pretty good and you can't beat the price: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32477-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0002RI5EY/

This looks like a superb set, but at $60 it really eats into your budget: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-85078-Cushion-Grip-Screwdriver/dp/B000ABADXI/

Saws: Get the Japanese pull saws. I like my Ryoba. There's a plastic-handled version at http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ that's pretty good. The one that abnormal_human linked to is an excellent choice. I would go with that. In fact, it's going on my wish list.

Power tools: You won't regret getting a 14 or 18-volt DeWalt electric drill. There are a couple of 18-volt tools on sale at Amazon right now. Don't argue; just get one. Don't forget drill bits. I like the cobalt, but Titanium is good.

I wouldn't bother with any other power tools; the good ones cost money and the cheap ones will only bring you grief.

Do this: buy a cheap but complete set of HSS bits. As they wear out, replace them one by one with cobalt. I got mine at Costco. I didn't see any on Amazon.

Get a tape measure. I wouldn't spend $25 if money is an object. This is probably the single-most important purchase.

Get as many clamps as you can afford. Not metal C-clamps; those are for metal working. Irwin quick-grip or clone and Jorgensen or Bessey bar clamps are your best value here.

Chisels: I'm not sure you need these for a minimalist wood shop, but if you get them, get a 1/4" and 1/2" chisel. That's all you really need. abnormal_human linked to a pretty good sharpening stone. Japanese chisels are the best, but they'll bust your budget, and until you learn to sharpen them well, they'll be a waste of money. Just get a cheap Stanley or DeWalt set. Expensive chisels will come pre-honed. Cheap ones you should hone for best results. You need to learn to hone them anyway.

Don't spend $50 on tweezers. But get a good pair at your local drug store and get a pair with the longest, sharpest, pointiest working end you can find. And a magnifying glass so you can see the splinters.

Get a 12" combination square. Don't get an expensive one, but don't get a no-name tool either. Some of them have a built-in level which you will never use.

Get a large carpenter's square. They're cheap.

I wouldn't get a card scraper. They're nice, but hard to sharpen and you really need a burnisher ($22) to do it properly.

Consider buying the hardware to build a good workbench. And by that, I mean a good bench vise. A very good one can run you around $200, but this one looks pretty good for $21: http://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-736-Hobby-WoodworkerS/dp/B002I2KFMG/ and $66 will get you this very decent one: http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4026-Cabinet-Makers-Vise/dp/B005W16LVE/

ETA: If you still have budget left for power tools, a random orbital sander is nice and not too expensive. I'm using a borrowed Ryobi and I have had zero issues with it. (I'm not normally a fan of Ryobi, but this one is pretty good. http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Ryobi-ZRRS290-5-Inch-Random/dp/B001HTPSKK/

Finally: a cheap Wixley or iGuaging digital caliper is a good investment. Within a week of buying one, I was wondering how I'd survived so long without it.

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

• A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  
• Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  
• A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  
• A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  
• A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  
• Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.
  
  I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.
  
  As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.
  
  Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).
  
  If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.
  
  The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.

The core material EDC, to me would be knife, light and cellphone. But cool keychain gidgets are really nice too.

So I'd say if you have a knife, a good flashlight would be next, then a backup knife and light (one is none, two is one). I like a multi-tool or SAK for my backup knife, and a keychain light for my backup torch.

(In case you're curious, after that I start considering footwear, gloves, hats and other clothing.)

(Sorry, I'm feeling a bit lazy, so you'll have to live with bare links.)

This one is pretty popular for keychain use: www.amazon.com/iTP-A3-EOS-Flashlight--Upgrade/dp/B006K5C2EG/

Fenix has single AA and 123 powered lights that are well regarded and compact:
AA: http://www.amazon.com/Fenix-E11-Compact-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005GW8UC2
CR123: www.amazon.com/Fenix-Compact-140-Lumen-Flashlight/dp/B005CWRB44

There are a lot of other brands worthy of consideration too, of course (Fourseven's mini, Jetbeam, Klarus, Zebra, just to name a few).

There are also a lot of much larger but more capable flashlights out there.

Keychain stuff is always nice:
I use these sliver grippers way more than I thought I would. The convenience of always having them around is unparalleled: http://www.amazon.com/UNCLE-BILLS-SLIVER-GRIPPER-TWEEZER/dp/B001KMSUA4
I've been thinking of getting this, I'm a little leery about that much stuff for so little cost though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A5E5IK
I love this style of keyring, but it's way cheaper on eBay: http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Gear-Aircraft-Cable-Ring/dp/B006ZSP1PA
Little one-piece keychain tools have become really popular, and I really like having a little prying and screwing tool always present.
The Gerber Shard is cheap but probably at least worth what you pay for it: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ
This one has a bit more functionality, and is made of the magically delicious titanium: http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-Chain-Tool-Seatbelt-Cutter/dp/B004PQJ1QO

Keychain multi-tools can be good.
Here's one from Gerber: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO
Supposedly the build quality isn't as good as Leatherman's though: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG

I'd also recommend looking for a glow in the dark lanyard.

A pen you can EDC is another "you're surprised how often you use it" item. I have an Inka and it's definitely alright, though a bit fiddly: http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Inc-Inka-Pen/dp/B001E6R6EM/
The biggest competitor is the classic Fisher Bullet Space Pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400B/dp/B000WGD13U

Something to write on is nice. I'm a real child of the digital age, but I still like having an analog recording medium on me. I prefer Pentalic's pocket size books to Moleskine's. They're a little thicker, but they have a flexible cover, and are usually cheaper. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Travelers-Sketch-3-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B0025TZ35Q but I don't know if it's ruled or grid or what. I also prefer a bright color cover to make it easy to spot.

Continuing on the writing stuff matter, a sharpie and/or a metallic (ink) sharpie are nice to have. You can get sharpies with stainless steel cases too, which feel nicer to hold, and you're a little less likely to forget somewhere.
Black (dozen): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFEP
Stainless Steel: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Stainless-Permanent-Marker-1747388/dp/B001V9LQLG
Metallic: http://www.amazon.com/Sanford-39108PP-Metallic-Sharpie-Permanent/dp/B00119QWCO

I think everybody should carry some sort of bandanna. I carry an off-brand buff (tubular bandanna) and an olive drab shemagh.

I like to carry a small baggie of what I call MacGuyver goods. Paracord (bound up in a hanayawa right now), some gorilla tape and electrical tape wrapped around a card, super glue, a sewing kit, zip ties, twist ties, rubber bands, safety pins, binder clips, and a few 1 quart ziplock freezer bags. (Like hell I'm finding links for all of those.)

Yet another "surprising how useful it turns out to be" item is a small mirror: http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Featherweight-Mirror/dp/B0047QV44O/

Whistles are useful for warning people of fire or danger, or calling for help, so I like to carry one: http://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B00544UJC6

A monocular is fun to have on your person. This particular model is really great because of its super low minimum focusing distance, which lets you use it as a sort of loupe. In regular mode it's good for looking for house numbers or your car in a parking lot, that sort of thing: http://www.amazon.com/Brunton-Echo-7x18-Pocket-Scope/dp/B000FKMTBS

I think that's all I could come up with off the top of my head.

I want to throw my hat in for the Lamy Safari - hear me out. Cost, flexibility and customization is the name of the game.

First, it's cheaply available. You can grab one from Amazon for $20, and each new nib is about $13. Converters are $4.50. Plus, there are so damn many floating around, replacement parts are never far away. So if you snap the body in a car door (too personal?) you can buy a new body cheaply and have all your nibs still work.

Second, the flexibility (not the nibs, obviously, they're stiffer than a preacher's peter). Each new nib makes it a whole new pen. The fine nib is great for notes, the broad nib gives you nice shading for those particular inks. Each of the different calligraphy nibs offers a completely different writing experience as well. The nibs are really easy to change on and off, as well as being portable and pretty durable. They're well made and write smoothly for the most part, though they do leave a little to be desired. But, you can fix that! So, onto....

Third, customization. I just started grinding my own Lamy nibs just to muck about. I mean hey, did you get into fountain pens because you just want something that JUST writes when you pick it up? Bic figured that out already; they really work great but that's not why we're all here. We're here for greater understanding and appreciation of craftsmanship. There's nothing mystical about these nibs, and as cheap as they are you can afford to experiment. It could be as simple as just making a sharper edge on a calligraphy nib to make better italics (my most recent project) - you have no idea how much better your normal, crappy old handwriting will look when you slap a 1.1mm calligraphy nib on your pen - it's like bringing out your inner Tolkien that you never knew was there! Or you could just slim down a fine nib to take super tiny notes on a notecard before a physics exam (my first project). The point is, it puts you in the driver's seat and it really doesn't take long. Sit down for half an hour, work carefully, stand up with a new pen.

Protip: throw nibs in a contact lens case, take them everywhere.

Check out this page on grinding for some basics on making your own experimental nibs (http://www.marcuslink.com/pens/aboutpens/ludwig-tan.html), then check out this inexpensive knife stone, which will work great for both rough shaping and medium polishing (http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Combination-Knife-Sharpening-Stone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1420394243&sr=8-10&keywords=1000+grit+combination+stone). For final smoothing, I'm pretty sure the standard Goulet micro-mesh paper will be great, though I haven't gotten around to buying one myself (http://www.gouletpens.com/GPC-Micro-Mesh/p/GPC-Micro-Mesh).

I've been playing around like this for a while now. What I've gotten is a greater appreciation for well made, expensive retail pens. I've also gotten better at spotting crap. Once you've played around with your own pen, you'll know what you're looking at when you go to buy vintage pens in the future. You'll understand the basics, and then can make an informed decision. The best bang for your buck will be not making a bad purchase in the first place. Start cheap, work up.

Now that I've wasted everyone's time and all my wind, I do have to say the Metropolitan is a fiiiiiine pen, quite sturdy and writes like a champ every time. So there's that.

TL;DR I think customizing cheap nibs is a great way to start, but the Metropolitan is sturdy and writes as well/better than many pens three times its cost. The TWSBI has interchangeable nibs as well, is more upscale and you can tell the difference. The Vanishing Point is great, I have two, but the ink tends to dry out more quickly then in my other pens, and the new nibs definitely have a premium attached - they were $25 when I was in college, now they're $65 and the pen itself hasn't changed price. That ticks me off.

Edit Crappy spelling and a couple other thoughts that bubbled to the surface.

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

>I have seen a few posts about people who don't have flood insurance, or any insurance on this subreddit (I hope its appropriate to post here) and I wanted to help you help yourself prepping to go back in to your home. I work remodeling homes, and commercial buildings and have a few tips for when you go back in your house to save a few thousand dollars.
>
>First thing is first, you need to expect total losses on a couple items; carpet and padding is gone, 100% don't bother keeping it. Drywall and plaster that have been submerged are also toast. Furniture may be salvageable, but if it has cloth or padding, assume its a loss. If it isn't REALLY expensive (custom, antique, or all sealed wood) its probably done for. These 3 things can cause health issues if not taken care of immediately. For your families sake, please don't hesitate to throw them away. Its all replaceable, your health is not.
>
>I'll preface this with the fact that I have never worked with FEMA, but only insurance companies. My knowledge and experience comes from working with them and if you have more information than I do, please add.
>
>
>
>
>
>How to prep your house:
>
>The VERY FIRST thing you do, is go to your main breaker panel, and make sure the electricity is shut off in the room you will be working. The odds of you getting shocked are negligable, but Murphy is always lurking. Once you have the breaker switched to the off position of that room you can begin the demo process.
>
>Unscrew the plates on the electrical outlets, and cable jacks. This will take a flat head screwdriver. Save these in a plastic ziplock bag to put back on later.
>
>If you have baseboard, and want to try to keep it (personally I'd just chuck it myself usually) you will need a razor knife. You will need one anyways so if you don't have one, purchase one. I'd recommend this one off amazon, but you can find simple razors for a couple bucks. The problem with cheeps, is they break easy, and you'll need the knife for your carpet too. Anyways, cut where the baseboard meets the wall, as there will be a paint layer and/or caulking there to seal it. Then use the flat head to pry the baseboard back. If you are trying to salvage the baseboard, be gentle and take your time. If you aren't trying to salvage it, bust it up and take out some anger on it.
>
>Next is your drywall. Here is a drywall saw I recommend. Go 6-8 inches above the waterline and punch it through the drywall (you can use your hand, but a hammer doesn't hurt as much) and cut it all. Rip out everything below your cut and throw it away. Then pull out any insulation in the walls, as they are soaked and compromised as well. This will help prevent mold growing in the walls.
>
>Leave any and all plumbing or electrical work exactly how it is.
>
>Next comes carpet. The carpet is only held on by tack strips (thin wooden pieces, with little nails in them) along the edges. Pull up the edges and the rest comes easy. Since the carpet is soaked, its going to be extremely heavy. This is why I would purchase the better razor knife, and cut the carpet in to pieces to haul it outside. By leaving the carpet until last, this will help your clean up from the dry wall, baseboard, and insulation immensely. The padding underneath will usually be stapled, or glued down, just rip it out.
>
>Turn the breakers back on, and put some fans in there if you have them. The more air movement the better. Obviously a lot of people won't be able to afford industrial style fans, but here is one for 40 bucks. If you can spare it, it will make a huge difference. The bigger the better, if you have the cash.
>
>I would leave cabinets where they are, and dry them out as quickly as possible. They will probably be replaced too, but once they are dry they pose no health risk, and you will probably still be using them to hold stuff until a contractor can replace them.
>
>These few things will save you thousand of dollars later on, and more importantly will keep your chances of being sick way down. In the insurance world(again I've never worked with FEMA), you get money for demolition, so you can pocket a good chunk of that, if not all of it depending on the contractors needs, and scope of work.
>
>I'd recommend getting a multi-tool as well, but they aren't necessary. They are just helpful. Here is what I use.
>
>I wish I could be there to help everyone out, and I hope this helps in some way. I'm praying for you all / sending good vibes and cash to you, but I hope this helps you out even more. Good luck, and if there is anything I can do, please don't hesitate to contact me.

500$ is an astronomical budget for beginner water stones, so let me just make sure that's out in the open.

Yes, 8k is on the high end of what you want to finish most kitchen knives on. Something along the lines of a Wusthof will retain a coarser edge more readily. Harder steels will generally retain a higher grit edge for longer. This is a gross over-simplification, but is sufficient for this conversation.

Since you want to go with splash and go and, from what I gather, this is intended to be a somewhat special gift for a special person... I'm going to forgo the budget options in the splash and go category, since I'm personally not a fan of them and wouldn't want them for myself.

All of that out of the way, you're going to want at bare minimum one medium grit stone (about 1k to 2k grit). If you have somewhat harder knives or if your skill is sufficient, you can make good use of a finishing stone for certain tasks (about 3k-8k is recommended for kitchen tasks, although you can go higher). You can make do without a flattening stone or plate for a little while, so you can view this piece as optional, but recommended since it will improve your mileage with your stones by keeping them flat and your angles consistent. Lastly, you might want a stone holder. These are generally adjustable rubber contraptions designed to keep the stone in one place while you're sharpening and help raise it off whatever surface you're sharpening on for comfort.

For a medium grit splash and go stone, the Naniwa Professional 1k would be my primary choice as a forever stone. You'd be hard-pressed to find any detractors for this stone among regulars on this sub or elsewhere. It's a great stone.

There are a few other options that I'd also recommend, but personally don't favor as highly as the Naniwa for the price. Those are the Shapton Pro 1k the Maido 2k and the Gesshin 1200 Splash and Go. Each of these stones will be splash and go, but will cut it slightly varying speeds, dish somewhat differently and feel a little bit different while using. Each of these are solid choices, but I have a preference to the Naniwa Pro.

For a finishing stone that is splash and go, I'd probably recommend the Gesshin 5k Splash and Go as my primary choice. The Naniwa Professional 5k is, like the rest of the line, an amazing stone in my opinion. The price is double that of the Gesshin, though, and I don't think it's worth dropping the money on as a first finishing stone regardless of budget; it's simply hard to justify that difference in price unless you're really discerning in what you want. I guess the Shapton Pro 5k deserves an honorable mention because it has a lot of fans. It's a little too glassy feeling for me and lacking in feedback so I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner sharpener.

For a flattening plate, I'd recommend either a DMT 325 diamond plate or an Atoma 140/400 grit diamond plate. The Atoma plates are constructed a little better in my opinion, but any of those plates will work for you as long as you keep its primary function to flattening your stones. The 140 Atoma will be the quickest at its job, but will leave somewhat deep scratches in your finishing stone so you'll want to smooth it out with your medium grit stone after lapping.

For a stone holder, you can honestly just stack some towels up or make your own out of some stuff around the house, but I like using a dedicated stone holder like this one.

That's about it. Keep in mind I kept my recommendations on the high end given the occasion seems to be special and your budget was fairly high to begin with. If you'd like some more budget recommendations just let me know.

I came back from backpacking through Greece, Bulgaria and Turkey (6 weeks) at the end of July/beginning of June-- Osprey 70 Pack, was my main, and their Daylite pack for lots of smaller trips where I would leave my main pack. This is something like my fifth backpacking trip but this one was more beach and hiking intense so my gear was tailored to it. I also needed to invest in a new pack, which is why I got the Osprey 70 (on sale!)

My pack was much bigger than I needed (I knew that from the onset having experience backpacking for several months already) but I enjoy the idea of having extra space if I needed it. Seriously, scope a pack out for a few weeks/months and look for sales, they will eventually come and you can snag something half off at least.

Basically a weeks worth of shirts, socks and underwear -- I have travel soap and a REI clothesline that I can use to wash anything I need. A pair of chinos and either dark jeans/chinos -- and a pair of shorts or two. A tank-top/swimsuit should be on your list, as well as flip flops.

For shoes, this trip I was mostly hiking so I took some hiking shoes (not boots because I still had times when I wouldn't be hiking), some thin converse and my flip flops. More than adequate for what I needed. Also, either a microfiber quick-dry towel or a cheap beach towel you can pick up most places.

THE BEST THING I CAN RECOMMEND (in addition to rolling clothes) is getting some stuff sacks to keep things organized! If you prefer cubes they make those too which are easier to transition into rolling shirts, and are easier to fit into traditional suit cases.

For the love of gaybros, get yourself a multitool right now if you don't have one. Something small that is easy to fly with, and has exactly what you need. I used to have a Victorinox Swiss Army Knife that I would use, but I recently got a Gerber Dime which I absolutely love. I spent a while in REI picking a new one out, and you know what... this was the most comfortable one for me to use; its tiny but folds out to a good size, and felt sturdier than some of the (much more) expensive ones. No Regrets with Gerber gear.

If you travel to cold climates sweaters (I got passed down a cashmere sweater by my dad that is unassuming and keeps me really warm, but has the benefit of being incredibly light and thin), I'd pack a sweater, a light jacket thats decently water proof, and an outer shell/completely waterproof/wind jacket. I have patagonia gear for that which is incredibly lightweight and amazing. They also make up 90% of my daily rain gear when It rains, so investing in some good stuff isn't just for trips.
Lightweight bag/rain cover is pretty good since I was planning on being outside a lot, but if you're going to be in hostels and so on -- you might not need one.

Go with the absolute tiniest toiletry kit you can. and get a small first aid kit. Seriously, you never know what will happen. Chap stick, bandaids, a small tube of moisturizer because traveling can make your skin go crazy, tylenol/pain relief.

At the moment I'm running:

TEC Centipede - Titanium ruler that's about 8.5cm in length. I measure things irregularly, but not enough to warrant a full tape measure which will take up more pocket space. Feels super well made.

Leatherman Micra - Just got it, and I'm torn on how much I like it. Whilst beefy, the scissors sometimes flex whilst cutting thicker items (so it goes between the blades laterally). I've never had this problem with my Classic SD, and may end up moving up to a 74mm Victorinox like the Executive for the sake of the bigger scissors.

Boker Vox Access Tool - Titanium prybar with a carbide glass breaker on the end. I've come from the SD Titanium Prybar which was bloody useless for nail pulling due to the groove literally being a 'V' without any guiding for nails, and the edge of the bottle opener kept digging into my hand when I used it. Although for it's follies, the tip lip is very thin (yet sturdy) and can get between thinner crevices than the VAT; I also drove in a couple of nails with the SD, and in seeing if I could unscrew a half in one with the VAT, I chipped the guiding groove for the nail puller (not severely, but it was kind of disheartening as I literally just bought it and didn't think it was much of a stress test).

Kershaw Pub - Technically this isn't on my keys, as I put it in the 'snuff pocket' in my jeans, it's beefier than the VAT for box opening, and the blade is about the same size as a Stanley blade. It's a bit of a different design and great for fidgeting. Not so great for fidgeting when people see you, but fun all the same.

I've currently retired:

The SD Ti Prybar - See above, a great little prybar, hampered by a frankly stupid decision to put a bottle opener on it. NOT EVERYTHING NEEDS A BOTTLE OPENER.

Victorinox Classic SD - A present which I absolutely love, however I'm in the pursuit for something 'beefier', although the scissors on this are second to none for all the little odd jobs I've had over the years.

Uncle Bills Sliver Grippers - Brilliant tweezers for splinters, however the first day I put them on my keys, and then sat on my keys, I hadn't put them in the holder right and they stabbed me in the arse. These tweezers have never been on my keys since.

Resqme Car Escape tool - Had it on the keychain, realised I'd only ever use it in the car, and now I keep it in the glovebox as I have the glass breaker on the VAT.

Leatherman Squirt PS4 - An absolutely fantastic multitool let down by a shit pair of scissors which have a lot of play between the blades. It results in a lot of rough cuts and ultimately spoils a perfect out of the box multi-tool. In the pursuit of better scissors and a lighter set of keys, I've currently retired this fantastic piece of kit.

Leatherman Brewzer - I absolutely loved this little prybar, but it broke in half when I tried to get a little shelf stud out of a bookcase, and it just shattered my confidence in the product to the point that I can't be bothered sending it in under warranty, as I know I'd never use it again.

Gerber Dime - I bought this at the same time as the Squirt PS4 because I couldn't decide between them. After taking them both out of the packing and comparing them side by side one after the other, it was instantly obvious that the Leatherman was just the better fit, so this was retired pretty much instantly and was gifted within an hour.

True Utility Keytool - First keytool I ever had and it was great for years! Practically invisible and as I only used it for the file, the mini screwdriver, and the thread cutter, it was fantastic. Never had an issue with the quality, and never had the need to take it off the key it was on, I only stopped carrying it because I don't use the type of key it works with anymore, and don't want to carry it round for the sake of it when I have so many other options. Great little buy though.

I'm probably going to buy:

Victorinox Manager - This is pretty much the best multitool for what I really need, and it has a pen. It's just 58mm and I really want a larger pair of scissors, however it has all the tools I've used recently, and it has a pen!

Another Prybar. As soon as I find a beefy titanium 80mm~ straight prybar which doesn't have a bottle opener on it, and instead has another useful purpose I'm going to get it. Hell, even if it doesn't have a secondary purpose I'll probably get it as well.

Thank you so much for taking the time to write out all of that information. I'll try to find a cooking store around here and go ask about knives and maybe some cutting boards as well. :)

As for sharpening, do yourself a favor and throw away those auto sharpeners. They suck. They work for like 2-3 sharpenings then they don't do crap. (I'm talking about the ones with where you hold it on the counter and pull the blade through a "V" slot.)

Seriously though, go buy yourself some stones. They're not expensive and they'll last a lifetime.

I have this stone

https://www.amazon.ca/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521472898&sr=1-16&keywords=combination

And this stone

https://www.amazon.ca/Japanese-King-Knife-Sharpener-Whetstone/dp/B003Q377K4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521473012&sr=1-1&keywords=king+6000

They're like sandpaper. Start with the coarse stone and move your way up to the higher grits.

You don't have to be perfect when sharpening knives, but you DO have to be consistent. Your angle doesn't need to be perfect, you just need to have the SAME angle every time. I only got good at sharpening when I stopped TRYING to control the angle, and I just started trying doing the exact same motion over and over again. 15 passes on one side, then 15 on the other with the coarse stone. Eventually you'll feel a burr on the opposite side of the edge. At that point, you do 1-2 passes on the side with the burr. Then move up to the next grit. 15-20 passes here on one side, then the other, then move to the next grit. As for technique, I like the "push away" technique. Since knives have two sides, that generally means that on one side I'm pushing the knife INTO the stone, and on the other I'm pulling the knife across the stone. it doesn't matter, as long as you're consistent. (But be careful pushing the knife into the stone, you can and will cut a chunk off of the stone if you push too hard or get the angle wrong.)

Before you sharpen, fill the sink with water and let the stones sit in the water for 5 minutes. Keep them wet when you sharpen. (I usually will re-wet after 20 passes. It's less about keeping it wet and more about removing the steel/stone particles from the stone itself). (Some people like to use oil, I like to use water, it doesn't matter really.)

I will admit I had to do something like 80-100 passes (20 at a time) on EACH SIDE of my main chef's knife because it was dull as hell (because of sharpening with one of those auto sharpeners.), but in the end, it was the one to cut me :(

A couple of hints:

If you shine a light/the sun on the sharp edge of the blade, you should NOT see a bright reflection on the very sharp edge. If you see light reflecting, that means you have a flat/dull spot, and you should keep sharpening.

If you want to know if you have a decent angle or not, color the edge of your blade with permanent marker (don't worry, you can clean it off afterward with rubbing alcohol/nail polish remover (uh... be careful when you do that... that was how I got cut.)) Since the edge of your blade has ink on it, when you try to sharpen it, only the bit that you're grinding off will be shiny (since you removed that bit of ink). That way you can tell if the angle you're using is too shallow (not hitting the edge of the blade) or too steep (kinda... flattening the blade edge.) If you just do your best to match what was there (all of the ink on the edge surface is removed) you'll be fine. Again, not perfection, just consistency. Eventually you'll figure out what kind of edge you like (super sharp but not durable, or more shallow but more durable.) Also, certain steels like certain edges better. Nice steels tend to be able to hold a super sharp (shallow) edge for longer periods of time, where cheap steels will not be able to hold a super shallow edge at all, so you have to sharpen them with a steeper angle so that there is more "metal" on the edge. (With cheap steels, if you try to sharpen them super super sharp, the edge will just break off.)

Last hint. Eventually, if you use the stones enough. They'll get worn down. They will no longer be flat, and this is a problem. The way to fix it is to buy a diamond sharpening stone. Some people actually use these to sharpen knives, but I don't like them for that purpose. Now, these are more expensive than the stones themselves, but you probably won't need them for a while. Basically you just use them to flatten your stones. Just put them on top of the stone and rub back and forth. Eventually your stone will be flat and ready to sharpen again.

https://www.amazon.ca/DMT-D8C-Dia-Sharp-Continuous-Diamond/dp/B0001WP1L0/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1521473952&sr=1-13&keywords=diamond+stone+sharpener

Anyway, if you do choose to try to use stones. Just keep trying. You won't do well on your first knife, or your second, or your third. Sharpen your shitty knives until you can do those well, then go after your nice knives. It took me probably 2 years of using the stones (probably every 3-4 months) to get to a point where I can say "yeah, those are sharp."

For the record, I feel the same that the Cryo is too slippery - which is why I'm super glad Kershaw released a G10 version of it last year.

I also agree that the Tenacious is just a bit too big for EDC - and they do make the Persistence, which is a shrunken version of the Tenacious, with a 2.75 inch blade vs the Tenacious' 3-3/8 inch blade. If you wanna go even smaller, the Ambitious has a 2.25" blade. All 3 knives share a similar design (though the Ambitious is small enough that the proportions might look a little weird to some).

A few other knives of note that are standouts in the sub-$50 price range:

• CRKT Ripple - Ken Onion design with a more-traditional drop point blade, IKBS, 8Cr14MoV. Usually on most people's "Under $50" list.
  
  
• Kershaw Leek - Again, a little slippery and still Speedsafe but a slightly weaker torsion bar so not as forceful. Some people have issues with broken tips since they're a little thin, but this thing was the best under $50 when it came out.
  
  
• Ontario RAT 1 - At $25 this thing is a pretty great package, if not a little big. 3.5" blade, but it's AUS-8 if you don't like the 8Cr China steels (even if they are pretty similar).
  
  
• SOG Flash II - again, a 3.5 inch, AUS-8 blade. Assisted opening, but much less forceful than Speedsafe.
  
  
• The Kershaw Emerson CQC-6K has blown up since it's release and a lot of high speed low drag tactical types love it for EDC use. $25 makes it a pretty appealing choice and rock solid under $30.
  
  
• The Spyderco Delica 4 is just a touch over $50, averaging about $60, but it's also a go-to knife in the $50 for many people. VG-10 steel on this one is a big selling point.
  
  
• On the same hand, the Kershaw Blur is usually available for about $60, and for those looking for a big folder (seriously this thing is large) it's a great choice. Sandvik 14C28N as standard steel, also available with S30V for about $75.
  
  A few notes here
  
  
• You'll see a lot of sub $50 knives using 8Cr13MoV or 8Cr14MoV. The main difference is a little more Chromium in the 8Cr14MoV, leading to a little more corrosion resistance. A lot of people loved the Skyline, but there were a few issues with minor rust spots on the knives, leading to many companies switching to 8Cr14MoV for some of their knives (most of the budget Kershaws are 8Cr14MoV now).
  
  
• Kershaw has many many options for budget folders under $50, for all kinds of aesthetic tastes. The Chill, Thermite, Link, Oso Sweet, etc. I've owned a handful of Kershaws, and loved all of them, especially for the price.
  
  
• The 8Cr steels (13MoV and 14MoV) are pretty much on par with AUS-8, especially from CRKT, Spyderco, and Kershaw who all do a good job on their heat treats. There's a slight difference in hardness (3 to 4 HRC difference by most counts), but really they're nearly identical for all intents and purposes, mainly sharpening and edge retention. Some people just prefer AUS-8 because they don't like so called "China steel."
  
  
  ETA a few more links and some clarification of my still-awake-at-5am rambling.

It depends on your budget, what you plan to be sharpening, and how much of a hobby you want to make out of your pet rocks.

If you will only ever want to sharpen your Fibrox, pretty much any water stone variety will be fine. If you plan on sharpening other things with harder or more heavily alloyed steels, you're not going to want the default King stones. They're okay, but they're a bit slow and even hearty tool steels give them trouble, to say nothing of harder kitchen knife steels. Names to google would include Imanishi, Suehiro, Shapton, Naniwa, and Gesshin. You might also consider diamond plate if you want to sharpen the deluxe PM steels out there, but they're honestly more a pocket knife thing.

The only accessories you certainly need are a dark marker for the sharpie trick and something to flatten the stones when they dish. The flattening tool can be a diamond plate, a silicon carbide stone, or even drywall screen. Diamond plates start around $40 and only go up, but they tend to work quickly and stay perfectly flat until you've ripped all the diamonds out. SiC fixing stones are cheaper and work about as well while drywall screen is the shockingly effective and cheap method. The other accessories go as deep as you want. Microscopes and loupes, slurry stones, strops, nagura, stone holders, sharpening ponds, on and on. I'd suggest you start small, maybe a stone holder at most, and try sharpening without much stuff. A lot of accessories are answer in search of problems; if you have that problem, by all means buy the solution, but as often as not they're unimportant. Don't buy anything that purports to help you hit or hold a certain angle. They are at best a short cut that will hurt your long term results.

****

Here's what I would do in your shoes.

> So I've been using by 8" Fibrox for about a year now and it is in definite need of some TLC.

I translate this as, "My knife is dull as a potato." Unfortunately the common 1k and 4-6k combo stone is not the best solution here. I would use a coarse stone to start sharpening a properly dull knife and I have years of experience, so I see no reason you should hamstring yourself by jumping straight to a 1k. Is a coarse stone required? No. Will it help you establish good geometry so that you can get good eventual results? God yes. Plenty of people have spent an hour or more muddling through with a King 1k/6k on a dull knife and finished with a dull knife because they never establish good geometry. When the knife comes off your first stone, it ought to be sharp. Any further work you do just refines and smooths out the already sharp edge.

Beyond the coarse stone, you'll certainly want a middle grit stone. They're the lynchpin to a good progression and they're good stopping points in their own rights. This two stone solution might mean a combo stone like the Suehiro Cerax 280/1500 or King 250/1000, it might mean a Naniwa Traditional 220 and Bester 1200, it might mean a Shapton Glass 500 and 2000, or it might even mean a Naniwa Professional 400 and 1000 or Gesshin 400 and 2000.

I don't think a finishing stone is a necessary or even smart purchase for a new sharpener. While you're learning the additional complications of too many stones can distract you from refining the technique that will let you get a knife sharp using a brick. Pick one up later once you have a good idea what you like in a stone and fully know what the stone's going to do for you.

If I were to do it all again, I would just buy Naniwa Choseras or Gesshins from the start. Yes, they're expensive, but they feel better, they work faster and cleaner, and they cut most kitchen steels well. They are in no way more difficult to use than typical low cost "starter" stones, and with the better feedback and speedier cutting they make learning to sharpen easier.

I do a lot of sharpening, and have used many kinds of stones, jigs, and gadgets. Many of the jigs and gadgets are junk, or slow, or high-maintenance.
For basic kitchen knife maintenance, it's worth it to learn to sharpen freehand with inexpensive waterstones. If you want to spend more money for better tools, spend it on nice big diamond stones. Don't spend money on sharpening machines, jigs, or gadgets. My personal sharpening setup is three 3x8 EZE-Lap diamond stones (Coarse, fine, and super-fine), and a leather strop with chromium oxide buffing powder. With this I can turn pretty much any piece of steel into a long-lasting razor blade. EZE-lap makes some nice double-sided diamond stones too that look great for kitchen use. Knife steels have their place (touch-ups between real sharpenings), but are not a complete solution on their own, and can be bypassed entirely.

For knives, anything that's not super low-end is good. It should feel great when held correctly. Most home cooks who've spent $200 on a fancy chef's knife would be just as well off with something like a $55 Henckel's Classic. Knives like that are good steel, easy to sharpen and easy to use. Most good knives require thoughtful maintenance. If someone needs a cook's knife but will not take good care of it, get them a Victorinox Fibrox. They're cheap, good-enough knives with handles that can survive the dishwasher. I also like knives from Wüsthof, Global, Shun, Mac, and many others. Modern knives are mostly excellent. As long as you avoid ultra-cheap options and exotic gimmicks, it's easy to go right.

>Is there any practical difference between DE and straight razor shaving as far as cost involved, difficulty in shaving, or maintenance?

Yes, yes and yes.

Lets break it down individually

Cost

Upfront costs

DE: A good DE and a blade sampler will run you about 50$, if you want to spend more you can get some better quality stuff.

SR: A good brand new SR will generally run you at least 70$, a strop will be another 20ish

Both DE's and SR's can be found used from ebay or several other sites for a lot cheaper. E.g WhippedDog's sight unseen razors

Maintenance costs:

DE: DE's are usually very durable and require very little maintenance, just rinse it off well after shaves and take it apart every now and again for a good wash. The main cost will be with blades. The blade mileage and type will vary based on the person shaving. Some use one blade one time and then discard it, others get a 3-5 good shaves from a single blade. So YMMV, generally 100 blades will run you for 10-30$ depending on the blades.

SR: A straight razor needs to be stropped, hence why I incorporated the strop into the upfront costs. Now your SR will also need to be honed and sharpened a few times a year, how often you need to sharpen it really depends on how much you use it and how good care you take of it. When sharpening you ahve two choices; you either learn to do it yourself or you send it to a pro.

Professional sharpening will generally cost you anywhere from 20-50$. But you can also do it yourself, a set of whetstones will cost you about 100-150$ for the cheaper ones like this set. You can also get a cheaper deal from WhippedDog. There are tons of other waterstones around, if you want to improve your own results, jsut do some research.

Now the nice thing about sharpening your own SR, you're now set for life. That one SR and your whetstones will probably be enough to shave yourself for the rest of your life and then some.

Conclusion:

If you're willing to spend more money upfront for an SR, strop and stones, which can run you for about 200-300$, you will save money in the long run, since you never need to buy more blades again nor send your SR to get sharpened. This also means that you have to put in effort to learn to sharpen your SR. If you don't want to do it, and send you SR to a pro a few times a year, then a DE will probably be cheaper.

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One more thing about cost, if you're planning on switching, I highly recommend getting a full set. That includes a brush, cream/soap, alum and after shave. Check the kit suggestions on the sidebar for more info.

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difficulty in shaving

The straight razor is often considered the most difficult shaving tool to use. You can literally kill yourself with it if you mess up really badly. This is because there is nothing protecting the blade, if it's in the wrong angle; it'll slice your skin. This is also the biggest strength of the Straight Edge, you have complete control over the blade.

The double edge was created to make shaving a more safe practice, hence why it's also called the safety razor. At worst you'll end up with small nick and shallow cuts. You will not have as much control over the blade as you do with an SR but you will still be able to get superb shaves.

I'd say the SR is more difficult to master, but also much more satisfying, at least in my opinion. Regardless of which you use, you will have to relearn shaving from the start. So don't be scared of a few nicks.

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>What kind of recurring costs am I going to deal with, as compared to disposable razors?

Well, this depends on what disposable razor you are using. So for the sake of comparison let's talk about the newest Gilette Fusion proglide. On Amazon 8 Proglide blades will cost you about 30$. Now some sources say that gilette cartridges will last up to 5 weeks, a year has about 52 weeks so by this standard you need 11 cartridges per year.

Going by the amazon cost of 3.62$ per cartridge, you're spending about 39,82$ a year for blades. Again, your mileage may vary. Only you know how long your cartridges last.

Now lets talk about a DE blades. According to Badger and Blade the average is 3 shaves per blade with a 3 pass shave. Now for the sake of keeping things simple; lets assume that you shave once per day and do 3 passes. So a DE blade will last you for 3 days.

EDIT: In case you're not familiar with the idea of multiple pass shaves, it basically means that instead of shaving once like you'd do with a cartridge you shave once, relather, shave again, relather and then shave a third time. The idea is to slowly cut down the hair rather than taking it all off with a single shave. Multiple passes often result in a better shave but also takes much longer and wears down the blade faster. A blade that lasts for three three pass shaves, is basically nine single pass shaves or 4-5 two pass shaves. So depending on how good of a result you want, your blades may last longer. If you're fine with a single pass shave, then you can easily go a week with a single blade., which cuts down the costs considerably. END OF EDIT.

Now Here's 100 feather blades. Feathers are generally considered to be some of the best and sharpest DE blades on the market. Seeing that the price is 22,80$ we can easily count that singe blade costs 0,228$.

364 days of shaving requires you about 122 blades, which at that price comes down to 27,82$~ per year for blades. So that's 12$~ cheaper per year.

The nice thing about DE blades though, they're all interchangeable. Wanna go cheap? 200 Derby blades 18,97$. Comes to about 0,095$/blade, which brings our yearly cost to 11,6$.

However, your mileage may vary.

Glue: Super glue. Plastic glue only works on very specific types of plastic, and not what PP traditionally uses (though that may change with the new plastic kits, I hear the TEP works with plastic glue, but not sure). You don't need any special type of super glue, it's basically all the same aside from the viscosity. There's basically no difference in performance between one of the expensive hobby brands and a general purpose super glue.

Brushes: In general you get what you pay for, but I would skip the branded brushes from the hobby companies. Some are good, but it's a crap shoot. Invest in some good red sable brushes from a real artist brand like Raphael or Windsor & Newton, and some brush soap. I am partial to these.. If you take care of them they will last basically forever. Good natural fiber brushes are more resilient than synthetic (in my experience), and hold their shape longer. You'll want to pick up a few cheap brushes for drybrushing, though. That will ruin the bristles. Size 2 is what I use for most of my painting. Don't get trapped in using tiny brushes. The sables will hold a fine point, even on the bigger brushes, and you want the large brush because it holds more paint in the belly and gives you more work time before it dries on the bristles.

Files: Just get a cheap set of needle files like this. However, you won't need them for a lot of things. Most plastic models can be cleaned up just by scraping an xacto blade along the mold lines (holding the blade perpendicular to the line), and even some metal models can be cleaned this way unless they are poorly cast. The files are just for the larger models or for badly cast areas.

Primer: There are too many choices here to really cover that, just use a little google-fu and see what you like. I have used everything from cheap krylon to brush on. Army painter primers are good if you are painting a set scheme because the tinted primer can double as a basecoat, but they are a bit pricy. I also use gesso sometimesas it is very humid around here, and that takes some of the variability out of the issue of priming models in a swamp.

Misc: I don't use a clamp, generally. I tend paint the models on the base. To hold them steady I usually just stick a glob of blu tack on top of a nearby bottle or object and use the bottle as a handle. Most of the time it's a can of primer I use as my handle, the larger / weighted object helps to steady the model in my hand. Blu tack also does double duty as "painter's tape" for me sometimes if I want to keep some section of a model free of paint. It's also good for removing dust from a primed model if you're like me and prime a huge batch of minis, then forget about them for 6 months.

If you're pinning models to the bases, you can also just stick the pin into the chuck of your model drill and use that as a handle.

Give me a minute, I can link you to a comment I found explaining it in depth

EDIT: I'm just gonna paste it here. For reference, I,believe priming is coating it in a thin layer of paint to act as a base. Use black primer for darker results and white for lighter. Credit to u/pyrese

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

I love painting the hero forge minis; sounds like you did yours in the new high detail plastic.

I've done a few of those recently and once you get them primed, it's not much different than painting die cast minis.

1. Using needle files and a pen knife, gently remove any spru from your miniature. You will have to be a little more careful than normal; I had one with a particularly fragile joint snap on me from an inadvertent touch, but generally they are durable. If you break any part of it, use superglue and gently brace the two parts together; Let dry over night and it should be just as strong or stronger than before.
   

• Needle Files
  
• Pen Knife
  

2. Next, fill a bowl with some warm and soapy water. Using a soft bristle tooth brush, gently clean the whole surface and rinse in warm water. You can pat dry, but I would still let the figure dry over night after cleaning. It is very important that you use a soft bristle brush; Medium or harder can scratch the surface of your miniature.
   
3. Once dry, coat lightly with a spray on primer; you'll need to get all angles. I prefer white as, with the black plastic, it is easier to see how evenly I've coated. Let dry. For me, this is over night due to my schedule, but it should be dry for painting in 2-3 hours.
   
4. At this point, you're clear to start painting. Use light coats. The thinner your coats, the more detail that will be maintained. You can use matte acrylic medium to thin the paints out. For me, this takes place over multiple evenings. However, if you find that you can switch between different parts of the miniature or between other miniatures as they dry, you can work continuously, switching whenever you need to let a coat of paint dry (5-10 minutes ish). I'll provide more thoughts on the actual painting in a response.
   

• Matte Medium
  
• Brushes ; On the last few I did, I just used cheap brushes from hobby lobby. However, this is the set I'll be trying out on the Catfolk I primed last night.
  
• Reaper Paints ; Reaper MSP is the line I prefer to use for most of my paints. For some technical paints, I'll go to citadel's line, but you can achieve the same results by getting your own base materials and mixing with your Reaper or other base line of paints.
  
• Color Pallete Design a color pallete for your project before you start!
  

5. Once you are satisfied with it's appearance and everything is dry, coat with a spray gloss enamel; give 3 or 4 coats in accordance with your products directions. For me, that's 15 minutes between coats.
   

• Glossy Enamel
  

6. (Optional) if you want to reduce the shine of the gloss enamel, follow with 1-3 coats of a matte spray enamel. This also has the advantage of being obvious when your enamel starts to wear off. If you see shiny spots on your mini, it's time to recoat.
   

• Matte Enamel
  
  
  

Lol, alright for example:

• Spyderco Delica 4 FFG: For your price range this is going to be the "best" steel you can get in a near 3" folding knife (VG-10). By best I mean the best edge retention in a stainless steel. However, being over 2.5" in some places (Chacago for example) the knife will be illegal. Also, many people do not like the look of the spyderhole as it can be seen as aggressive in office environments. Also the FRN handles, while very strong, have a cheap/plastic feel to them.
  
  
• Spyderco Tenacious: Compared to the Delica, 8CR13MOV is a "worse" stainless steel (not as good edge retention, more prone to chipping during heavy impacts). However, the extra blade length is better for many outdoor tasks (breaking down tree branches). The handle is also G10, which is slightly tougher and has a much better feeling in hand than FRN.
  
  
• Spyderco Centofante 3: A more "gentlemanly" and "office friendly" version of the Delica with a slightly longer blade. Again, VG-10 and FRN.
  
  
• Kershaw Cryo II: Same steel as the tenacious. Metal handles slightly tougher than G10. Flipper action has "cool" factor. The blade grind makes the tip a touch stronger than on the tenacious.
  
  
• Kershaw Skyline: One of the most iconic of Kershaw's knives. Hollow ground blade makes it great at slicing tasks.
  
  
• Esee Izula: Skeletonized fixed blade. 1095 Steel is significantly better than the other steels listed at "chopping" tasks as it is not prone to chipping at all. It is NOT stainless and so the blade has a protective coating over most of it. The steel will require mineral oil/cleaning to prevent rusting.
  
  
• Becker BK 24: Similar to the Esee Izula but D2 steel which has better edge retention and more corrosion resistance than 1095. It is also much harder to sharpen. Many think the BK24's handle is also less comfortable, the sheath is worse, and there are less available after market modifications.
  
  
• Ontario Rat Series (linked the RAT I. RAT 2 similar but smaller): Ontario's version of the tenacious. Bladeshape generally more people friendly. Another very popular beater option.
  
  
• Morakniv Knives (there are MANY, this is just one): Highly regarded in the "bushcraft" community. High carbon steel (similar to 1095) with a scandi-grind which is great for field sharpening and woodworking. Only partial tangs so not advised to use for battoning tasks or chopping.
  
  
• Kershaw OD-2: Gentlemanly knife with great flipping action.
  
  There are a LOT more suggestions I could add...

There are tons of stones out there and most of them will work for you. I would recommend starting out with a hard stone that isnt going to dish. That way you wont have to worry about flattening or regrinding the stone. Personally I would recommend this as a beginner stone that is still very high quality and inexpensive. Its an oil stone so you will need mineral oil or something similar with it. The spyderco ceramics are also great stones as they essentially never wear out.

If your set on getting waterstones I would say for the fibrox to not go much past 2k grit. The king deluxe stones are good, the shapton ha no kuromaku stones are also good and much harder making them a little easier to learn on. I would recommend against getting something like naniwa professional/chosera or shapton glass to start mainly because of the price.

The honing rod is fine I personally dont use them but thats more of a personal preference thing. I would rather use a benchstone than a honing rod. However a honing rod can help maintain your edge and quickly touch up the knife. Using a honing rod you can keep a knife sharp for quite a while before needing to sharpen it again. Which is great if you have your knives sharpened by a professional not quite as important if you do it yourself and your knives arent super expensive.

A leather strop can help quite a bit when you are first starting out to help remove burrs, and do minor touch ups between sharpenings. If you want to get really good a strop will end up being more of a crutch that lets you get away with not properly deburring the knife edge.

​

a good tutorial video https://youtu.be/2Vu6Dq00v7I

ceramic stone

spyderco medium benchstone

waterstones

king deluxe 1000 grit

king 250/1000 combo

shapton ha no kuromaku stones reccommend 320 and either 1500 or 2k for these.

​

There are also arkansas stones which are great I would suggest getting the soft arkansas stone and using that as a finishing stone.

Unfortunately, I can't find a coarse DMT stone for anything less than $70 on Amazon, or a Spyderco medium for under $50. This is on the .ca site, not .com, as they won't ship to Canada.

I can find King water stones on Amazon, though not in the grit you talked about. There's a 1000/6000 for $36, and a 800/4000 for $47. While I like the price, I'm not sure if it's for me. It's not a ceramic water stone, so it might be softer than I'd like. I see it recommended a lot, so I will keep it in mind.

There are videos on how to deal with the curved leather knives, and I'll watch them closely when I get such a knife, but until then, most of my knives will likely be straight edged. I don't need to get them surgically sharp, but the sharper the knife is, the easier it is to finish the edge of the leather. If it's not sharp enough, fibers tend to stick out from the cut. 1000 should be plenty for right now, and if I need more, I'll look at one of the water stones, as the finer grits wear much more slowly anyway, and I don't have to concern myself with dishing as much.

Both the Kuromaku and Chosera seem to be pretty highly regarded, as I read in this sharpening blog. Shapton Glass was also highly regarded, but I decided against them because of the price. This is where I started getting confused by the Chosera. In the blog, the model number of the Chosera that he's talking about start with 'P' - for instance, the 1000 grit is P-310. Now, when looking them up on Amazon, I found one that looks like the one in the blog, it's that trademark green. However, the model number is SS-1000, and that sounds like the Super Stone series that Naniwa also has. Except that looking up the 1000 Super Stone gives me a model number of S-1000. So the Super Stone (two S's in the name) has one S in the model series, and the Chosera Professional has two S's? There's also more than just the standard and Professional series, there's a bunch of 'traditional' ones, and the super stones are still being sold, it looks like. It's all very confusing. I mean, the 1000 is $100 so I doubt I'd go for it anyway, but I have no idea how to honestly tell them apart. That's the main reason why I wanted to go with the Kuromaku. Way less confusion.

Also, I agree with you on the oil front. I considered the possibility because of the price, but I really don't want to have to deal with the mess.

HI there,

Congrats! hope you like working with your knife. i've been sharpening my knives on whetstones for about 2 years now and here's a few things.

1. you do not need 3, 4, 5 or however many stones with increasing grits. seriously, don't spend 150 on some natural 10000 grit stone from japan (not just yet) as its just not super useful to you. I would recommend one maybe 2 stone and a strop. personally i like the king stones (1000 and 6000) because the bang for the buck is amazing, and a stone fixer You can look up strops, they come in all shapens and sizes and you can normally make one from stuff you already have, even newspaper (see below.)
   
   
2. find a place where you can sharpen every now and again. i ruined tables and counter tops before i realized that sludge that comes off stones is super abrasive and scratches stuff real easy. you can either make a sink bridge from a 2x4 and some screws or buy one. or, alternatively, just get a good stone holder if you are going to be on counters. find something that works for you.
   
   
3. one more thing before i go all knife nerd. watch some videos, Korin has a channel on youtube that's really good, carter cutlery is cost concious and has a great technique stroping on newspaper... and you can look up bob kramer but his stuff is way way more high end.
   
   
   anyways that's my two cents. i got a 15 qt sterite container for all my stuff including the bridge and i offer knife sharpening to friend just to practice on different knives.
   
   Cheers and good luck. I think its a really nice time once you get a handle on it.

For the fretboard scrape the heavy gunk off with a razor blade then wipe it down with naptha. Then you can spray a little guitar honey fingerboard oil on it if you like the look of darker fingerboards. You don't necessarily have to oil it, but I think it looks nice. Boiled linseed can be an alternative, but keep in mind it's a drying oil and will stay there.      

For the nut, a tusq but is a cheap and pretty much a drop in replacement. Bone nuts can get pretty expensive, and tusq is just as good if not better. There's precut fender style nuts for like $8.

If the frets are just a little tarnished, tape off the pickups with masking tape first. Then go 0000 steel wool->Dremel felt polishing pad with jewelers rouge->metal polish with a microfiber pad, then rub everything down with a dry part of the microfiber.

If they're totally messed up and divorced, uneven, etc then you can completely do the frets or take it to a shop. Level/crown/polish them. Regardless of the route you take I would probably file down any protruding frets that poke out past the fingerboard.

Anything perfectly level with some sandpaper to level frets, long granite scraps from companies who do countertops can be super cheap/free. You'll also need a sharpie, fret rocker, and straightedge. Make sure the straightedge is actually straight, cheap rulers generally aren't.


Any flat file for protruding frets. A small needle file with a safe edge ground on for dressing the ends after bevelling. For crowning use a triangular file with the corners ground smooth.  


Bevelling and protruding frets

Fret ends

Crowning

I listed cheap options to get started. You can always buy nicer ones. Stewmac, crimson guitars, LMI, and similar sell specialized ones for a pretty big markup.

Hey, here's some info on knife sharpening, as requested:

Firstly, I think the reason you struggle towards the tip with a guided system is that you have to reset the system to do the front of the knife. Basically treat the blade as if it were 2 parts, sort of a back half and front half. When you start, center the system on the back half of the blade and when you're done that section, recenter the system over the front half of the blade and do it separately. Just be sure not to grind more metal off of one half than the other. Count your strokes. There's probably a better way but I don't use guided systems often so my experience with them is extremely limited.

• Here's a crappy example I drew in paint
  
  I'm not sure what you use your knife for, so I can't recommend a sharpening angle. If you're batoning or chopping, you'd need a more shallow angle and "meatier" profile so the edge lasts longer. If you're trying to make it sharp enough to whittle (not just shave) hair, you'll need to have a steeper angle and a higher grit stone and will need to strop with polish after sharpening.
  
  
• bevel types/grinds
  
  
• bevel angles
  
  
  If you don't have any stones and need a cheapish one for basic sharpening that will last many many years. <- This stone will be more than enough to keep your knife sharp if you are hard on your knives and will need to resharpen often. I'd recommend anything from EZE Lap and DMT.
  
  If you want to try whet stones, the ones below are some decent ones. You will need a flattening stone like this one as well.
  
  
• 1000 grit
  
• 6000 grit
  
  This is a good source of basic information regarding sharpening knives using whet stones
  
  If you have stones but are unsure of technique. <-
  This is a good video describing the basics of keeping a knife sharp. Walter Sorrels is a good source of info with regards to knives in general.
  
  I wouldn't recommend stropping with polish until you know how to properly sharpen on a stone. I'd treat the two activities as completely separate entities until you get proficient at sharpening. Once you can put a decent edge on your knives, then you can research polishing. I only say this because it requires a different technique and a difference set of "tools" to accomplish. But you're a big boy/girl/Apache helicopter and can do what you want so here's a basic video on it anyway.
  
  
• stropping with polish
  
  If you have any questions feel free to ask, but not before making an effort to answer it through your own research. I always recommend doing your own personal research on any topic you feel passionately about. I'll try to help however I can though.

There are going to be varied answers, and it really depends on what you want to do and how much you want to spend.

I am an amateur but I'll give you my two cents.

Personally, thinking of staying cheap, I would say larger hand saw to cut big pieces, smaller precision hand saw, CLAMPS, mid-sized hand plane, set of 3 chisels, and sander... keeping it super cheap... a sanding block instead of electric orbital sander. Maybe a miter box too.

The specifics and the whys:

$11 - Hand Saw to cut larger pieces you get. No need for a table saw right away.

$20 Precision saw - I like my double-sided japanese Ryoba. It was cheap, cuts really well and has both end grain and cross-grain teeth. I use this for cutting precision joints.

$30 Clamps - Always very useful. I bought THIS SET to start. Move up to Jorgensen or Bessie bar clamps when you have some dough. Bar clamps are superior in clamping pressure, but you can get most stuff done with the quick grips.

Plane - some people would disagree, but you can get a $15 or $20 Stanley number 4 which can act as your jointer to get a board flat and smoother. If you are just getting home depot wood then might not be useful yet.

Chisels - Basic cheap set from HD. Start slow. You can shave a little off to make your joints fit.

Sander - to keep it super cheap. Sandpaper and your hand. Then block sander.. then orbital sander if you want to spend some money.


I had less than this and it got me by on my few first projects. $80 bucks or so without a plane. Very basic. Other than that... you will need at least 2 sawhorses or a table. A table with a good vise or clamping surface makes your life way easier.

*edit for formatting

So I see lots of good suggestions so far.
For knives I like my Carving Jack from Flex cut but if I had to do it again I would get the cheaper Whittlin Jack It has a good blade like the carving jack and I just don't use the other tools to justify the extra cost. I also like the Flex cut chisels.
Others have pointed out Mora knives for another good deal

For carving chisels and gouges I like my Ashley Iles not the cheapest but worth it.

for handsaws I like the Japanese style saws

They are hard to beat for the price and quality.


Keeping all of the tools sharp could be entire other thread.
The DMT Dia-sharp plates are great in the course to extra-fine grades. I have the extra-extra fine and would recommend something like a 6000 or 8000 grit Shapton stone instead.

[Image One]

This is an overall picture of what I carry in my backpack every day (non-work days as well)

The only item I don't get a close up on in this picture is my ranger-roll of an extra shirt, boxers, and pair of socks.

[Image two]

1. Deodorant - there are too many times where I forget to apply in my morning daze and realize once I'm in my car.
   
2. Deck of playing cards. In case the power goes out and I need some entertainment.
   
3. Uni Pipe-Shift Mechanical Pencil .07
   
4. Pilot Metropolitan Mechanical Pencil .05 I like to have both for sketching, the thicker lead helps with shading.
   
5. Pilot Metropolitan Fountain Pen, Fine Nib
   
6. Lucky Turtle, Also my Inception Totem :)
   
7. 128 GB Flash Drive - yes, it's real
   
8. Eraser - cuz art
   
9. Secret Santa Gift - Pen Twirling Pen I like to have things to fiddle with at my desk
   
10. Pocket Sized Moleskin Notebook that I write poetry in
    
11. Refillable Ink in case my fountain pen runs out and I don't have my ink bottle near
    
    [Image Three]
    
    
12. Razer Naga Epic
    
13. Old PSP case I use to store my mouse in
    
14. Travel Toothbrush
    
15. Kindle Paperwhite in a Faux Leather Case
    
16. Precision Screwdriver Set I bought at Radioshack
    
17. Laptop charger
    
18. USB Wall Charger
    
19. Mini USB Cables
    
    [Image Four]
    
    
20. Generic Sketchbook I bought at CVS - When work is slow and I get an idea, I draw it. Usually I tend to just free-hand copy images from the internet
    
    [Image Five]
    
    
21. My Personal Laptop Lenovo T440p that I got last year, this thing is a damn beast
    
22. Can of RedBull - I don't always need wings but sometimes when work is slow I start to fall asleep and this is needed
    
23. Filtered Water Bottle - Even IT Desk Monkeys need to drink sometimes
    
    [Image Six]
    
    This is my in pocket EDC, these things never leave my side
    
    Not Shown is my CellPhone which I used to take the pictured. It's a Droid DNA.
    
    
24. Razer Nabu SmartBand - Talks with my phone via bluetooth and will give me all my notifications on the mini screen as well as do the kind of generic fitness tracking that most fit bands do
    
25. Leather Wallet - Cash Money Yo
    
26. Pilot Metropolitan Gel Roller Pen - By now you've seen that I have three different Pilot Metropolitans. I love the feel of this pen and each version (fountain, gel roller, mechanical) I have in a different color to easily tell which one I am grabbing
    
27. Kershaw Cryo II - Best EDC Knife I've ever owned. I love the feel, look, and weight.
    
28. Car Key
    
29. 32 GB Flash Drive, This has my emergency geek tools on there as well as a few emulators, roms and minecraft (it stores all data on the drive)
    
30. House Keys.
    
    [Image Seven]
    
    This is my backpack with everything inside, it's a Northface Surge. They don't produce or sell these anymore. I got it about 6 years ago and it shows very little wear.

despite not having anything on your want list, I wanted to ask about the Wavebirds. have you tried taking them apart and cleaning them? are there dead spots on the actual boards? it might benefit you to take them apart and dust them. that helped me with a wired Gamecube controller that had a sticky X button and one of the sticks acting weird; now it's in perfect working order. if you're able to find the receivers, that would also help you be able to get rid of them. people rarely want controllers with no receivers, and you also can't very well test them without at least one.

if you don't have a tri-wing, you might have some luck taking them apart with a small flathead screwdriver. I did that before spending $3 on the tri-wing one that worked pretty well since I was careful and didn't force it badly enough to destroy the heads of the screws. I know from experience that the tri-wing screwdriver works for Gamecube controllers, the DS Lite, and GBA carts. I've also read that it will help dismantling Wiimotes, the Wii itself, the Gamecube console, and quite a few other of Nintendo's things. it's worth the $4 if you have any technical knowledge and would trust yourself taking things apart. which I understand many people wouldn't, which is also fine.

and actually, upon further inspection, and after clicking the link to your full want list, that was a lie. I do have a spare copy of Wind Waker without a manual, but I certainly won't be trading that for some half-dead controllers with no receivers, especially if the boards are what's shot.

also, I'm pretty sure that Platinum Game Boy Players were Japan only, and are relatively rare, so I wish you the best of luck finding one. I would love to have my Game Boy Player match my beautiful platinum system, along with its controllers and two of my Wavebirds, but I guess it just wasn't meant to be, and I don't care enough to invest in such a swap when there are games I could be getting instead.

Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.

A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FZPDG1K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459352340&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=flush+cutter&dpPl=1&dpID=414t7uLh8KL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013E68SU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013D53CS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352997&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=testors+model+glue&dpPl=1&dpID=51QQU8wrc-L&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NPUKYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1459352697&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=needle+file+set+for+metal&dpPl=1&dpID=412lincr%2B5L&ref=plSrch

Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,

Every job I've had has been blue collar, or at least a mix of field and office work. Currently, I'm a woodworker, so I'm sure you can imagine how often things like splinters are a thing. I first started carrying the emergency knife when I worked at a climbing wall. It was there to cut a harness or potentially even a rope in the event of extreme emergency, but it was/is also good to have in case of a car accident or something (window breaker and seat belt cutter). I'm thankful that I've never had to use it. And that's what a lot of my gear is for. Things I want to have ready to use, while hoping I never do.

Emergency knife This isn't the one I actually have, but it's similar enough. You can find this same design in a multitude of places, at all different price points.

Normal use I also have a cheap little $6 Ozark Trail one that I've used for around 12 years or so. Long as you care for your knife, it will last and serve you well. You don't have to have a top-of-the-line one. I do greatly prefer the single-hand operation ones, though. They have the little pin near the base of the blade so that you can just slide it open with your thumb. And I usually prefer the liner lock, which allows you to unlock the blade with your thumb, and close it with your forefinger. With enough regular use, it all becomes one swift motion that you don't even think about

Swiss army knife I was gifted mine and likely wouldn't have bought it on my own, but I found myself very appreciative of it and think it's worth the money. If mine gets lost, broken, or whatever, I'll likely buy a replacement.

Bonus! Gerber multitool This has been on my key ring for 6 years. I use it almost daily, and think it is probably one of the best EDC purchases I have ever made.

Preventative maintenance is a really good idea. I never had any issues with mine, but then read some horror stories about dust build-up and YLODs on this subreddit and decided to get in front of it, especially since I have three dogs running around (lots of pet hair and dust).

I bought the special screwdriver you need off Amazon for like $4, watched some YouTube tutorials, and opened her up. WOW. I couldn't believe the amount of dust and hair that had been collected over the years. And I found that after I cleaned it out and put it back together, it actually ran quieter than it had been running... I hadn't noticed but it had gotten a bit louder over the years. Now I clean it every 6 months like clockwork - I have even started taking my controllers apart and cleaning them out at the same time.

As long as you're careful and following the numerous instructional videos or write-ups, there's really no detriment to keeping your system clean. My PS3 has had regular use for about 8 years now, and I credit its relatively long life to keeping it clean.

Link to special screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521578661&sr=8-3&keywords=ps3+screwdriver

Link to tutorial I always bring up when cleaning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsuSnYXQLoI

Knipex for Lineman's pliers: (with or without crimper). Their grip and cutting edge are significantly better than any other brand I've tried.

Wera for screwdrivers: I recommend the XXL 3 set. For sale here.

I still like Klein for strippers. I use the Kurve everyday and the Katapult for wire with thick insulation like PV wire.

Fluke for your meter. Most people recommend the T5 for basic stuff, but the 323 has a proper clamp and removable leads for the same price.

Knipex Cobras for your channel lock style pliers. These are absurdly good and have saved my ass a couple times.

I also recommend buying a Knipex Pliers Wrench. I own a 7-inch and a 10-inch pair and they're way better than a traditional adjustable wrench.

Stanley newest Leverlock tape measures are just as good as Milwaukee's tape and less bulky for half the price.

Milwaukee's Fastback series are the best utility knives by a pretty wide margin. I use the compact one, but that's a matter a preference.

I don't mean a sharpening system like a buy this one this to sharpen your stuff like folks have for their kitchen knives.

I meant a method you have to keep your stuff sharp.

I started out using the 'scary sharp' sharpening method.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp

Used a $3 tile from Home Depot and a set of sandpaper similar to this and used a honing guide like this one and then used Paul sellers techniques in this YouTube video

Also watch this Paul sellers video on preparing your chisels .

Scary sharp is great for beginner, and those that have little sharpening to do. The advantage and disadvantage is that you use up the sandpaper doing the sharpening. So the initial cost is low, but you need to keep paying for more it as your sandpaper supply runs out.

I lucked out and found a friend of a friend who gave me a pair of a course/fine combination oilstone similar to this. So I got a leather pad and stropping compound and then continued to use the honing guide and was very pleased with this result.

Now I'm pushing money towards getting a set of DMT diamond plates You want a course, fine, and extra fine. And lastly you want a 4000/8000 norton water stone.

This is what I meant by upgrading your sharpening system. All of these are options, and depending on your budget and needs, they can all work. Some advocate the buy once cry once mentality and just buy the last setup i talked about, but my progression has served me well enough that my shoestring budget allowed for continual progress, and also gave me the opportunity to cut my losses if I didn't use my chisels and planes as much as I do.

Hope this helps.

Well since this post, I've actually done a good amount of research and narrowed it down to pretty much two options:

The Cryo II because of the deep carry clip, good size, speed safe, and reputation


or

The Volt II for its awesome blade shape, tons of features, good comfortable grip, and pretty much perfection. I'm kind of in love with the Volt II. It's just so thick.. It would be my dream EDC knife if it had a grip like the Kershaw Chill with its G-10, diamond pattern handle and thinness. So, idk. I'll probably end up going with the Volt II, I just with the grip were G-10 and more EDC oriented

A lot of your criteria is pretty subjective. What's your size limit? What climate are you in?

By 'quality' metal I assume you're not a metal snob and are just looking for a metal that will not be terrible at holding an edge and will get sharp as needed. Because of this, I will keep the AUS8 and omit the 8Cr13MoV.

Rust 'proof' might happen, but you'd do better I think with a carbon steel of some kind, which will rust if not taken care of.

All that being said, here are some good suggestions to start you off.

Gotta have rust free? Spyderco Pacific Salt with H-1 steel

Spyderco Endura

Cold Steel Recon 1


Cold Steel American Lawman

Cold Steel Voyager

Kershaw Blur

Benchmade Griptilian

Ontario RAT 1 Folder

CRKT Heiho

All of these knives should be quality options with good steels that can be relatively easily concealed and opened, and fall under your price point. Their 'rust proof'ness will be directly proportional to the amount of care you give to your equipment. I have carried a Spyderco Endura with a VG10 steel blade for years and as long as I wash off the blade every once in a while (like right after you cut something acidic with it), and oil it whenever I get around to feeling like it sometimes (like whenever you start to see patina issues after the 30^th blue moon)...I do not have rust problems. YMMV

You need to be more specific. This community will always give advice to newbies but there are SOOO many different ways to work that we need to know what you think you might prefer.

Keep in mind that your opinions about how you like to work may change over the course of your adventures in woodworking.

Given that you have $100 at Amazon to spend and $100 cash to spend elsewhere here is what I would do: No matter whether you are going to be primarily power tool or hand tool, you will need sharp chisels. To sharpen chisels you will need a few things. This is a water stone. This particular stone is at two very frequently used grits. if you want to go over your amazon budget by $20 or so add this stone to the first one.

From there I would use some of your non amazon money to get this. This will help hold the chisels at the proper angle to get a good edge.

Finally we come to the chisels themselves. I would get a set that contains 1/4 3/8 1/2 and 3/4 inch chisels. I own this set which I like for the price but I am not in love with them like I am with the MK2 honing guide. To stay in budget perhaps you buy only one chisel to start practicing sharpening. I'd say get the 1/2 inch. It is a good balance of quality and affordability.

Keep in mind that all the gear in the world will not help unless you learn how to use it. Hit up youtube for DOZENS of how-to videos on sharpening.

All of those links above should come to about $220 before shipping.

Don't buy a new controller, clean/ fix your existing one. It will cost a lot less (~15$) and you will be able to clean/fix all of your other controllers as well. May sound weird because I'm telling you to fix your existing one but don't buy replacement joysticks... the rubber will just fall off on those too... =[ Ive wasted some $ on shitty "replacement" joysticks that don't even last a day. Buy 1 pack of these [ **.com/Cyber-%E3%83%BBPremium-Slide-Cover-Clear-Black/dp/B00UURTXK6/ref=sr_1_1?s=instant-video&ie=UTF8&qid=1479033751&sr=8-1&keywords=3ds+circle+pad+cover ] and glue it to your joystick. I used an epoxy resin because i figured it would do the best gluing plastic on plastic but super glue would probably work too. You should still buy a tri-wing screwdriver [ ***.com/Gen-Lite-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Tool/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479034061&sr=8-1&keywords=triwing+screwdriver ] and some wet-wipes to get inside the controller and clean up a bit. Mine works like brand new but even better because the joystick will never wear down. I'll never part with my original orange GC controller >.<

I guess the moderators dont want people posting links so they deleted my original post... lol anyways just replace "****" with "https://www.amazon" if you want to see those items

For kitchen knives, especially big ones, I think freehand sharpening on stones is the way to go. You have three choices: Diamond plates, Japanese water stones, and Arkansas oil stones.

Arkansas stones are the things your grandpa used, and they are truly BIFL. Treat them right and they'll last forever. A set like this would be excellent, although the particular brand probably doesn't matter very much. They're all natural stones and whatever variation exists will be between batches as much as between brands. Do make sure you get standard 8"x3" stones, though - smaller ones will be frustrating.

Japanese stones are not really BIFL because they're consumable, although they still last an awfully long time. As they wear down they expose fresh grit and in return, tend to sharpen way faster than Arkansas stones. Brand matters a bit more here - Norton, Naniwa, and King are frequently recommended, King being the least expensive. I have a King 1000/6000 grit combo stone, and it's great, although I wish I'd gone for the 800/4000 set instead. To get the best life and performance out of a water stone, you'll need to occasionally flatten it with another stone designed for the purpose.

Diamond sharpeners are the new hotness. They cut faster than Arkansas and last longer than water stones. Unknown brands are likely to have the grit fall off, so buy DMT Dia-Sharp. I don't own these and can't tell you what specific grits you want, unfortunately.

Get your girlfriend a petty knife. Shit I use one a lot when I'm at home. If I'm butterflying 2 chicken breasts, Peeling/deveining some shrimp, fast things, I'll reach for my 5'' petty knife or 6'' global. Small and agile, with better ergonomics than chopping with a pairing knife.


Duuuuuuuude. Don't think of spending ANYWHERE near that much on sharpening stuff as a novice. Sharpening is a difficult skill that takes thousands of hours to really master, lots of practice and frustrating moments. Start out with your whole set up costing ~$100 and see if you even like it. Its a full blown hobby as well as something handy to know. I as a professional chef, after sharpening knives for hundreds of hours probably, still take my knives to a professional once a year to really get them good and perfect. I'm proficient not perfect. I can maintain an edge that a professional set perfectly, to a point which can shave your face, but I can't take a knife thats been scraped on bricks and a 200 grit stone intentionally to destroy an edge, and put a perfect 14 degree angle. I'd recommend water stones because they don't require messy oil. just a soak in water and a spray bottle, or work near a sink.

You need a couple things to sharpen. Get a few cheap rags together, Get a bin you can soak water stones in get a sink mount and get a few stones

$16 Sink Mount

$149 Stone set this is the one I got and learned on. It's been great so far, its expensive right now but I found the same exact set for $99.00 when I bought it a few years back.
$12 Strop Not needed but it takes your knives to the next level

This all being said. Everyone has an opinion on whats best to start with. This is the path I took and I've never been upset with my purchases :)

I was in a similar place as you. Here's what I got:

• Moleskine Notebook 2.5 x 4
  
• Fisher Space Pen
  
• Leatherman Micra
  
  I wanted a small EDC that I could fit into all my pockets. It's not for everyone, but it's worked out really well for me. I use the pen almost daily, and even though it's only my third favorite in terms of writing, always having a pen on me is awesome. The Mirca has been great for just having a decent pair of scissors and a pocket knife. The other features will pay for itself when the time comes. The notebook I keep in my back pocket with the pen. It goes with always having something to write with, I now have something to write on.
  
  I really should post my EDC soon, seeing as this sub was what inspired me to pick up those items.

A lot of people like the double edge japanese saws on Amazon (the Ryoba ones). I have one and it works well, but I also have a table saw, circular saws and a band saw, hackzall.. etc.. so it doesn't get used often.

I'd recommend getting a decent #4 hand planer.. but not the cheap stanley one that makes you mess with two knobs to adjust the cut depth (it's hard to keep straight).

Little machinist square helps make sure blades are square to tables (also that corners are square) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W0W34O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also worthwhile to pick up a cheap kanna block plane, they work well for chamfering corners: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CF33BG

Pick up a good dual-grit sharpening stone for your chisels, and preferably a chisel bevel guide. You don't need expensive chisels to have them work well (they will hold an edge better though). Being sharpened well is the most important thing. Finish off your sharpening jobs with light strokes on a leather strop with some polishing compound.

If the idea is to learn to use hand tools, then the basics are chisels, saws, and planes.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=67707&cat=1,41504
Those are a good set of chisels at a reasonable price. I'd recommend the set of 4 (1/4" - 1").

http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1413255552&sr=1-2&keywords=ryoba+saw
Next I'd get a ryoba saw. One side has teeth for ripping, and one for crosscutting, so you get some versatility out of one tool. You could also look into dovetail saws.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=low+angle+block+plane&rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3Alow+angle+block+plane
Planes come in massive variety. I'd start with a low angle block plane. The more expensive planes come ready to use right out of the box. The cheaper ones can take a bit of work to turn into a good tool. I have one of those cheaper stanleys, and I had to spend about 4 hours sanding the bottom to get it flat.

For a plane specifically for joinery, I'd also look at a rabbet plane.

Hope all that helps. If hand tools aren't really her thing, then you're looking at something more like table saws and routers. Good luck.

So did these razors come with just the factory edge? The first advice you are going to get here is to send one (the 6/8 since you like it) out to a pro for honing. You can find lots of guys in the SRP classifieds. My recommendation is Brad at Maggardrazors.com.

If you insist on doing it yourself, then the problem is likely that you aren't setting a bevel. That's getting the very edge of the razor into a nice V-shape where the tip of that V is touching the hones. Now you would do this by working the razor on the 4k side of the Norton for a long, long time or you could get a 1k stone. I hate to tell you to go out and spend more money but the Naniwa 1k is pretty cheap. I haven't used it myself but I do have the Naniwa in 3k, 8k, and 12k and they are all fine stones.

Also it probably would help if you made sure your Norton was absolutely flat. I didn't do this with my Naniwa stones, thinking "They're new, they must be acceptably flat." Wrong! I bought a DMT D8C plate and it works great for keeping all of my stones flat and clean. You can get by a bit cheaper by getting 3M wet/dry sandpaper from an auto parts store and laying it on a flat surface (scrap granite counter top supposedly works great). Just watch out that you don't wear out your shoulder!

Definitely get yorself out of the "cordless system" mindset entirely if you want to really get into decent woodworking. Cordless is really awesome for building a house or drilling in the attic, but you're overpaying for a benefit that you aren't utilizing. Cordless circular saw can make sense, but not a miter saw and certainly not a table saw unless you are a contractor or farmer (or have goofy power requirements, but I still maintain it's an exception requirement and not something any normal user needs).

A really really exceptional hand saw for woodworking is this guy -
https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2MWJCIOPZF45&keywords=gyokucho+ryoba&qid=1566045150&s=hi&sprefix=gyokucho%2Ctools%2C208&sr=1-3


For reference, I do hobby woodworking and house upgrade projects. I have one power saw, a makita track saw, and an unreasonable array of hand saws (I think I have 11 or 12 different hand saws at the moment). Rarely do I want or need something more, a table saw at some point but only for repeatable cuts when I'm doing something with multiple specific rips.

This is the permanent solution

I used to get random disk ejections twice a day on average. I tried tightening the screw and keeping the eject button away from surfaces but none of those worked.

Then I tried this. I haven't had a disk ejection in over a month since I did it. It prevented me from having to buy a new ps4 or a new disk drive from sony for ~$150 I think it was. It's a permanent solution. It's a little scary because it seems like you'll break something doing this but it 100% works.

You'll need a torx 8 security driver to open the main cover on the ps4. As well as a box cutting knife.

While you're in there you might as well use one of these to clean out your heat sink/fan after taking out the battery. I recommend you check this out to clean out on how to clean out your heat sink.

There. Two birds with one stone. You fixed your ejection button and you cleaned out your ps4 so now it's quieter and cooler.

This answer assumes 1) you want a few knives to cover different uses and 2) you can dig in the couch cushions for $3.53 or you can wait for Amazon's prices to fluctuate just a little bit. The price on the Kershaw jumped $3 just while I am typing this up...

EDC: Kershaw Blur, $54.17. I'm a little goofy, and I like the serrated tanto even though it looks like ass. I assume for most people, they'd prefer the straight blade. I've had one for a few years, and it works great. Just the right size, comfortable grippy handle, and I love the opening mechanism.

Camping knife: Condor Tool and Knife Bushlore 4.375-Inch Drop Point Blade, $36.41. The QA on fit and finish is apparently an issue with this company, but I didn't notice any problem on mine. It's not going to win a beauty competition, but its a hard worker. One of the comments on Amazon says it's the AK-47 of the knife world. I'm inclined to agree.

Inconspicuous Folder: Opinel #8, $12.95. I don't actually own one of these, so caveat emptor, but they come highly recommended by the hive mind. It's a classy looking folder that you could carry around in your suit's jacket pocket or your briefcase.

1. Buy a good stud finder, it can detect other stuff as well, and check for clearance. This is the best and easiest to use stud finder I have ever used. Here
   
   
2. If you have the proper clearance, then cut the wall with a drywall hand saw.
   
   
3. Use some 2x4 or whatever cheap wood you have available to nail the support beam. You can easily shoot a nail at an angle to connect it between 2 studs. Do the bottom support and top as well.
   
   
4. Install the cabinet and secure it with screws. You really only need 4 screws. 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. Or if you're flush the the studs on the side, you can screw it to the side. That's the easiest route.
   
   
5. Now finish it with drywall joint compound to fill the gaps. Then caulk the gaps. Paint.
   
   Now if you don't have the clearance. Your only way to do it is is to build a frame around it so you hide the unfinished part. But personally, I'd just get another one that's in in-wall.

>As a note, they all have an edge and just need honing.

Do you mean that they were properly sharpened and are just starting to dull? If so then I'll definitely second RVmaster's suggestion to look at a high-grit (10k+) finishing stone like the affordable "Chinese 12k" or a Naniwa 12k. A high-grit stone will put a nice polish on your edge and bring it back when it just starts to lose that keen feel. Alternatives would be to get a nice "barber's hone" or a strop treated with an abrasive, e.g. diamond paste or chromium oxide, but I personally prefer my 12k.


>what would be better for a first timer? Do I order the full-sized Norton 4K/8K and a flattening stone, or do I get the 3 "quarter" stone Norton bundle

I would definitely suggest the full size 4k/8k combo stone. I'm not a fan of them being quartered and couldn't imagine trying to sharpen on a hone that small.

Assuming you were looking at the Norton flattening stone, I'd encourage you to look at alternatives. Personally I love my DMT D8C (Amazon, SRD), which is a coarse diamond stone on metal. It's incredibly durable, will remain flat, and you could use it for sharpening tools or knives. The Norton flattening stone doesn't have a great track record: Amazon reviews and an SRP discussion. I doubt you'd ever have to use 220 on razors.

Doing drywall doesn't take a lot of specialized equipment. There are tons of videos on youtube. I don't have one that's better than another, maybe someone else will chime in as well. A couple of ladders, a couple of screwguns, a utility knife to cut it. You can get a drywall square, but a straight board will work as well. You'll want a couple of blades- a 6" and a 10-12" should be fine. You can get drywall mud online, but the shipping is crazy. You'll need drywall tape. A jab saw will help to cut out for electrical boxes, etc. Screws would probably be ebtter purchased there also. You'll also want corner bead. A cornering tool is also helpful. You can buy more specialized equipment, but this should cover the essentials, except for the drywall itself. Best wishes to you, stay safe.

I have printed many of his components for my c-bot printer and his stuff is very well thought out. I went bigger and I am sure that I will run into some tech hurdles to overcome because of the size and weight of my bed but your excellent prints give me hope! For DuPont connectors I picked up an iswiss ratcheting DuPont connector crimper. Click Here

If you didn't get the ratcheting on it is worth the money. I would insert the connector. Crimp down until the tabs that grip the wire insulation would bow slightly, and then insert my wire and finish the crimp. Worked like a champ!

From most of the reviews of the knife, it comes with a pretty good edge, not razor sharp though.

Ok, after searching amazon, looks like the green compound is pretty cheap, so I'll get that. 6oz green compound for $3

And if 1000 grit is what I need for a whetstone, looks like you can get cheap ones on amazon too. Here's a double sided 250/1000 grit stone Also, the blade on the knife I'm getting is only 2.8 inches long, so I assume the size of this whetstone should be good enough.

I guess that's only $10 more than what I would have spend on sandpaper. I assume the cheap whetstone and green compound on cardboard would be a better choice? I also read that the back of a coffee cup is almost like a 1000 grit stone, but I assume the actual whetstone will just work a lot better?

Thanks for all the info.

Sure here my take on your kit.

Much of your gear, is old school, thus real heavy, like things wrapped or made in leather. Seek to lighten up. Replace some with multiple usage instead of single use when possible.

You will increase your mileage with less efforts by reducing bulk and weight.

I love the pipes, I bring a few cigars myself. I like smoking stogies late at night by camp fire. Helps with bugs.

I would replace the 2 flasks with a single 3L water bladder.

Carry a box of Aquatabs, water filtering is not always enough. (Viruses in some context) and to cleanup/purify your water bladder.

The plastic spork (mine broke in the middle of a meal) with a titanium spork (exta long so it fits nicely inside those meal bags without burning or contaminating your meal on inserting your dirty camping fingers into your meal at each shovel full).

Substitute those meal bags with oatmeal and dehydrated fruit for breakfasts and lentils and rice, mixed with dehydrated mushrooms and vegetables for most meals. Made fresh at each site by simply boiling it in water with some seasoning, and is much healthier and low sodium and no preservative. It's less weight, more compact and each meal costing under $1.50 or less.

You can use Red Lentil, yellow or black , add rice, third of a cup of two colors around 1/2 cup total, add dehydrated veggies, shopped shiitake mushrooms or your favored dehydrated and chopped mushroom etc... Salt, pepper, etc, Fill water to the 500 ML mark, boil and voilà. You wont be able to find a cheaper yet healthy meal packed smaller, lighter and higher energy in any other way. This is a time proven recipe.

You can keep one or two envelope meals for when too tired to prep a real meal...

Add some energy bars, or protein bars for lunches, do not stop to eat, simply hike while munching on those, and you will never be hungry during hikes. Drink more fluids than usual.

You need a hat. (helps prevent heat exhaustion and heat stroke). Practice hat on in the sunlight, and hat off in the shades. It makes wearing a hat more bearable and reduces moisture loss.

You need bug repellent, and a facial bug net (depending on when and where, black flies can be a real issue).

Those simple meals should be complemented with "Electrolytes" boosters on hikes where you sweat profusely on hot days to replace fluids and other essential chemicals your body needs. Your sweat expresses chemicals that deplete your electrolytes and can make you sick to your stomach even though you hydrate, as water alone doest replace depleted body salts.

You have too many knives, you only need one. I substituted 3 of mine with a single mini multi tool and Light my fire knife which is so light my mini multi tool is actually heavier. You can sometimes find fully functional super mini multi tools in dollar stores for under $5.00 you really don't need anything more...

You need some para-cord (550 Lbs test). Great for surviving unexpected events or If only to repair shoe laces, hang food bags away from bears on a 15 foot branch or use as an line to secure a tent or tarp for day use on rainy days.

You need a small hiker's saw, with plastic handle (ultra light yet functional).

Ditch those gripless shoes and get real hikers, they provide real grip on slick even wet dirt, synthetics are ultra light, they breathe and you wont have any blisters. These look bloody uncomfortable for genuine long mileage hiking.

Get some carbon fiber hiking poles. (Costco has great robust light weight units for under $30.00)

Ditch the Kindle and learn mindfulness meditation. After all you are in deep wilderness in nature, learn to enjoy it...

I second Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. It rarely gets recommended, but when you look at reviews some of them are crazy good. It took me a couple tries to get the hang of, but it's really solid stuff. Just make sure you give it a couple hours to fully dry.

That's a pretty sweet starting kit for sure, the flush cutters in there alone are like $8. I'd add picking up a whole set of files like this, I've found that having different shapes (needle point, round, etc) has been really helpful for filing some sprue nubs that are in weird places.

This is really expensive for a crimper, but the 'official tool' for those ends. It also slices off the passthrough bits when you crimp down. I had that crimper and the EZ ends at a previous job and the results were always positive and could even pass fluke tests super easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=C776B95H44EYJGZ5MECM&pd_rd_w=WcQxT&pd_rd_wg=WPTyb&psc=1&refRID=C776B95H44EYJGZ5MECM

Great! That's super helpful. Looks like as far as knives go, your best bet is to stick with knives that don't lock OR require two hands to open. Since you're a minor I'd abide by both actually, and stick to a two-hand open knife without a blade lock. Fortunately, that's fairly common on multitools that are great for EDC.

My favorite small multitool is the Leatherman Squirt PS4. A more budget-friendly alternative would be a Gerber Dime. Each of these are a fantastic EDC multitool. The Leatherman is especially capable. I use mine all the time. If those won't work for you, you can't go wrong with a Victorinox Swiss army knife and I think they're availible pretty much everywhere.

As far as a flashlight goes, I suggest one that's USB Rechargeable. That makes it really easy to recharge and always have plenty of battery. The most EDC frieldly USB rechargeable light I know of is the Streamlight Microstream USB.

I don't know if those are availible in Germany or what they cost over there, but that should give you some ideas.

So being commo I know some good gifts for us nerds. I know you are going to spend some time making cables, so check this shit out RJ-45's that let you pull the wires though the RJ45. Well now that you got that, might as well buy the crimper with a cutting edge designed for those RJ-45's. I keep the Crimpers in a old PRC-127 radio pouch for easy attachment to my gear if needed too.

If you wanna feel like a cool guy with a gerber, but also need to run some cables? Well we got the Gerber Cable Dawg. Great thing about this thing is it has MAN's for you to get that supply guy who you have been nice too order them and comes with a MOLLE pouch to attach to your gear.

• UCP: 5110-01-598-2253
  
• Coyote Brown: 5110-01-598-2254
  
• MultiCam: 5110-01-598-2248

No. Learning to sharpen is tricky enough and these just complicate things by forcing you to maintain a relative angle between the knife and abrasive while both are moving.

I recently went through the exercise of teaching one of my friends how to sharpen his knives and he tried to skimp on getting a stone(net savings: $6). The stone he got was too soft and didnt cut well at all but at least it was a bench stone; meaning it was a stone you set on your counter top.

I strongly recommend getting a dual grit king waterstone.
This is a good example of a good starter stone:
https://www.amazon.com/KING-1000-Grit-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B0000Y7LAS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498550018&sr=8-7&keywords=king+stone

Eventually you will want another one that is higher grit to get a better polish and to flatten your other stone, but for now this will meet your needs for learning.

For the same price but for greater utility, better performance, more ease of use, better safety, not looking like a weirdo or idiot, and so forth:

A cheap actual tool set if you need stuff for home or workplace to share-

https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Orange-39-Piece-Tool-Set/dp/B00RF9J8DY/

If you want a hammer and axe for camping and home use-

https://www.amazon.com/Estwing-Riggers-Axe-Hatchet-Reduction/dp/B00DT0OSF6/

Light drywall cutting and nailing alternative-

https://www.amazon.com/Westward-6DWK4-Drywall-Hammer-Steel/dp/B004V06TOQ/

If you want the actual tool capabilities of the multitool part but not the weight-

https://www.amazon.com/SWITCHEDGE-Tools-Crimson-Pocket-Knife/dp/B0103JS8H4/

Better multitool for everything-

https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Multi-Tool-Black-30-000469/dp/B006M9NIDO/

>trim to proper length

EZRJ-45.

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU

I will never go back. You can't make me. NO ONE CAN MAKE ME GO BACK.

On the real though, these save you SO MUCH TIME, and if you're like me and just hold your hand over the wires while you crimp/cut the cleanup is super easy.

Cutting, stripping, crimp/cut. Best things I've ever used.

Even has the pinout for A/B on there so you really shouldn't screw it up.

I think a gulfstream G650 is a nice starter plane.

Joking aside: you'll want at least three planes-- block plane, #4, and #5. To get started, I don't think you can go wrong with a #5. Old stanleys are great and so are veritas and Lie nielsen offerings. Now....if you want to get the lie nielsen...i'd say go with the veritas bc 1) its a slightly wider blade, 2) you can use the same blade in nearly all of their bevel up planes 3) you can get them in PM-V11 which will stay sharper longer and 4) its a little more heafty and helps with plough through a little better and 5) I think the blade advancement is better on veritas bevel up vs lie nielsen bevel up. That being said, both lie nielsen and veritas are many times better than any other commercial new hand planes out there.

Other thing to keep in mind: ya gonna need to sharpen the blade. Norton kit is a good place to start. You'll need a way to keep the stones flat. You'll also want a strop with some kind of compound.

King's generic 1000/3000 dual stone is a great buy for the price. I had one that lasted for years before it was too dished/clogged to put an edge on anything. Then I needed a flattening stone to bring it back to fighting condition.

Though, if you have the spare cash, Kramer's waterstone set is amazing. You can get a very good edge with the King stones, but that Kramer set has a very different feel.

Also, you'll want a nagura (if you don't get the Kramer set that comes with one). A lot of the king stones offered on Amazon come with one. It's used to clean/condition the stone, flatten out smaller imperfections (over the heavy cleaning stone above), and make a slurry to really polish on your high grit stones.

Also Also, one shout out to Upon Leather on Amazon. I picked up a strop from them that is very good quality leather, with more polishing compound than I will ever need, and a no-shit handwritten thank you note in the box. Just need to mount it to a piece of scrap wood and you're good to go.

I looked at these for awhile but decided to take a chance and spend the money on what people claimed to be the superior tool, and having used it for awhile now I can agree it is awesome.

Behold, the Knipex 10" Pliers Wrench

It works like a combination crescent wrench / channel lock but has a lever mechanism (like vise grips) that bites down hard when you squeeze the handles together. Basically the harder you push/pull, the tighter the grip gets. The jaws always stay parallel so you can even use it on small nuts/bolts. Superb German design and construction. I am not a pro mechanic (or really a pro anything) but this is one of the coolest tools I've ever bought and is totally worth the $50 (at least if you like to buy awesome/$$$ tools). Oh and no more messing with that dumb thumbwheel on the crescent wrench. Fuck those things.

If you want assisted opening, Kershaw is your primary go-to knife company. Anything with "SpeedSafe" is their assisted opening mechanism. Bonus points is that SpeedSafe is legal in all 50 states (although the knife itself might not be due to length).

I would highly recommend the Kershaw Knockout. It's one hell of a nice blade with a slim profile (so it doesn't get in the way of reaching into your pockets and pulling things out), doesn't weigh much, and kicks hard when opening.

The Kershaw Shallot is still my favorite carry knife despite owning over a dozen production folders and knives that cost 3-4 times as much. It has a slight recurve in the blade, it's thin, it's an amazing slicer, doesn't weigh much, and deploys fast. It doesn't have left-hand pocket clip carry, however.

Another is the Kershaw Blur which is a bit of a beefier recurve bladed knife that is a non-flipper (deployment with thumb studs only). One of Kershaw's most popular models, after the Leek. Keep in mind that the grip-y "TracTech" inserts that the Blur has is kinda like more dense and rougher cork. It can tear up and wear away at your pant's pocket over time. Like the Shallot, it also does not have lefthanded pocket clip carry.

FYI, a punch down tool to punch down those jacks like in the pictures attached to the OP is a completely different thing (and different skill) then what you need to crimp down the RJ45 connectors on a patch cable.

It's much easier to re-punch down the jacks then it is to crimp some patch cables, but if you would like to get into making cables, I would highly recommend getting an EZ-RJ crimper like this one on Amazon. With these (and the special connectors), you untwist the pairs and pull them through the connector and then when you crimp it will cut off the excess. Makes things MUCH easier, especially when you are just getting started.

As far as I'm aware Arkansas stones tend to fall into a grit range of around 600-1200, While this is fine for general use knives, it is far too low for honing a straight razor, except when setting a bevel. When honing a straight razor, most people will use a 1k stone for setting a bevel, then step it up. 1k/4k/8k is a popular combination, and the Norton 4k/8k stone seems to be fairly well regarded for the price. 8k is really the absolute minimum grit level you'd want for something you'll be taking to your face, and many people will step it up to a 10k or 12k stone as well, possibly finishing off with a pasted strop for a final polishing.

If this is your first straight razor and you've not shaved with a straight before then I'd really recommend sending it out for a honing. If you get it honed properly then you'll be able to get your technique sorted out by the time it needs honing again. If you try to hone it now then you may have a hard time figuring out whether you've managed to get a good edge on the blade, since it'll take you a while to get your technique down, and until then you may find it difficult to figure out whether it's the blade or your technique that's the issue.

There are a number of places you can send your razor that do good honing work. A few that you could try are:

• Glen at GemStar Customs
  
• Brad Maggard - (The Maggard website is currently down due to storms in the area where there server is located, hopefully it's back up soon).
  
• Lynn at Straight Razor Designs
  
  On a separate note, congratulations on the razor! Can't see the blade particularly well due to the glare in the photo, but it looks to be in fantastic condition for a $35 Wade & Butcher!
  

good advice in this thread, but I can't believe no one mentioned the mack daddy.

I'm sure you've seen it on youtube, so its well liked. The replacement blades aren't very expensive so no need to send it around the world to get sharpened. It really is a great saw. I learned on sharp western Disston saws, but the Japanese pull saw came as second nature once I let the saw do the work.

Thats a good all around saw, but you might prefer the Dozuki (in related items) for dovetails and spline cuts.

I like King Brand Japanese waterstones like this but really you need to take a look for yourself. Same with knives. Look for something that is comfortable to hold and feels natural in your hand, in my opinion that is far better than to just look at brands and then look up reviews about: How quickly will it dull? How hard is it to sharpen? Price? Stuff like that.

This is step-by-step guide I put together after I saw /u/oldSAP's post. It's pretty easy to do and looks cool when you're done.

Here's the [link] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=cm_sw_su_dp) to the tri-wing screwdriver I used and here's a [video] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEpISFBoGDg) of a disassembly if you want to reference it (it's in German).

I could probably make a video tutorial if there is a lot of interest. Have fun!

Edit: Thank you to whoever gave me gold!

Ok, $100 isn't going to go very far, especially if you need everything, but here we go.

Whetstone - This is slightly better than the hardware store combination stones, but it's cheap, it's a water stone, and it's got a good grit combo.

Handsaw - Japanese style, cuts on a pull stroke, crosscut and rip teeth. I have this exact saw, still works pretty damn good after a dozen years of occasional use.

Beater chisels - Not the best steel, but a chisel is better than no chisel. You'll want at least 2 sets of chisels anyway - don't beat the hell out of your good set.

Block plane - Don't expect super high quality from Stanley anymore, but we've all got at least one of these little block planes somewhere.

And I'm $6 above the gift card budget. The chisels and plane will need some sharpening before use, but it's enough to get you started. You still need marking/measuring tools, a square, a work surface, clamps, vise, and obviously, some wood to sink your teeth into.

Sorry, that should have been 800, 1,200 not 600, 1,000.

But the jump for me feels fine. I don't know maybe my frame of reference is off because I used to use my dad's stones and jumped from 1,200 to 12,000.

Backs are a bear depending on steal but again I haven't really felt that I was killing myself. Perhaps either the tool or the stone is out of flat making you work far harder to move up grits?

>Which lapping plate do you have

Atoma 400 from Hida tool, but also sold from Lee Velley
I was ready to throw some change at a diamond plate that would last. In my dad's setup, I was using a dmt duosharp. It worked fine though I was always questioning how flat it was being plastic and it doesn't have a lot of grit on it, so it's pretty warn these days. I was debating between the Atoma and the diasharp. I got the Atoma because I thought it would last longer. Don't know if that's the case or not.

Honestly the sandpaper method for corse work and flattening seems like a pretty cost effective way to go. I picked up a piece of granite counter top cheap for lapping plane bodies. Others say the float glass works good too. I'm sure it does.

Japanese saws are great fun.
$42 Good for dovetails and fine work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JW19U8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$37 Good for cutting up pretty much everything:
https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BSQU9UQ&pd_rd_r=V3Z49PY3ZZA2EPHVWECV&pd_rd_w=AqtIY&pd_rd_wg=C155B&psc=1&refRID=V3Z49PY3ZZA2EPHVWECV

I would recommend the Gerber Artifact over the Shard. They are essentially the same tool but the Artifact has a built in x-acto blade holder for small cutting tasks. It’s great for tape or anything that would gum up another knife. Also, I would get a light that uses a AA or AAA battery as they are easier to come by then the button cells in the Streamlight Nano (I am currently using a Fenix E01 and it’s a great little light)

Typical home owners and typical car diy people don't need snap on tools. Yes they're much much better than Craftsman and 10000x better than harbor freight, but they are over kill for home use. I would definitely go buy decent tools over the cheap harbor freight kits. I had a few of the wrenches snap, and sockets chip far too easily. I have a decent 100 something piece set of Craftsman I bought during black Friday for about 35 dollars. One of the best investments I made in tools.

The only thing I actually bought that was top of the line are knipex locking pliers. My God. They are... I can't even explain how amazing they are. They have never slipped, ever. Even on wet nuts, total lockage. http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8603250-10-Inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B000X4OG94

EDC- Penlight, Pocket Screwdriver, 6" Scale Rule, Folding Utility Knife, Gerber Artifact, Sharpie, Pen, Lighter.

LX- 2@ 8" Crescent Wrench w/ safety lanyard, gloves, diagonal cutters, sharpies/paint pens, wire stripper, 5-n-1 screwdriver, non-contact voltage tester. In my gig bag, I have a meter, allen wrench set, c-7's, among other tools I don't really need to lug around on the subway, but then that 1% of the time they come in handy and I accept hauling them around the other 99% of the time.

CARP- Dewalt 12v Impact Driver/Drill set, 7/16"-1/2"-9/16" deep sockets each on an adapter for for use in the impact driver. Same sizes in speed wrench.

Just picked up one of these thumb drive ratchets it has been super useful for working on unistrut and holding bolts when putting together flats or platforms.

Edit: I forgot. Always have my chalk bag handy.

This may seem long but I spent a lot of time to share the knowledge so please read it and look at the links.



Everyone who uses any tool with an edge should own a Norton 4000/8000 grit water stone. (2 stones in 1) and know how to use it.

I own that one and a Shapton 16000 grit
For polishing a very smooth and fine edge

I plan on adding a Naniwa 12000 grit for an in between grit.

I bought them for honing straight razors but use them on anything that needs to be sharp

Lynn Abrams is like the go to guy for how to get things really sharp


The stones wear as you use them, so you will eventually need to lap them to flatten them back out. Some people use a flattening stone

I personally sprung for a lapping plate since I can also lap other things flat directly on it.

I also have one of these that I use for utility stuff like hunting knives or pocket knives or anything I think would gouge my nice stones and shorten the lifespan.

I know you are probably thinking, " all this stuff costs a fortune" Stones are durable and you will have them to use for the rest of your life. Chip away at them one at a time.

Not a ton for me to tell - I'm no huge expert.

For a SR, you wouldn't need to buy blades or anything (cheaper, less waste). Instead, you'd need the razor itself, a strop (to keep the edge in shape), and a hone (if you want to sharpen it yourself to save money).

/u/roctraitor can help you out with a nice razor and a great strop.

For a hone... I think this is usually considered to be pretty good for the job? I could be wrong, that's just my recollection. Ask someone more knowledgeable than me before you buy.

Soap and brush will be the same.

DODOcase Durables Wallet for iPhone - Just started carrying this a few weeks ago when I found out my SwitchEasy Tone case was still allowing grit in and scratching the back of my phone. So far so good.

Fisher Space Bullet Pen - Always heard good things about this pen, it was smaller than I expected but that ended up being a good thing. Very happy with it.

Leatherman Micra - Perfect size for a keyring multitool, I can't deal with a ton of bulk in my pockets and this gets the job done. I'm considering modding some of my house keys on to it soon.

Standard VW keyring with keys, the USB dongle is a password key for my work laptop, nothing special.

Here are my personal essentials.

• Spyderco Delica 4: $60 VG-10 steel, comes in tons of colors
  
• Spyderco Endura 4: Larger version of Delica
  
• Morakniv Companion: $12-$20 A really awesome fixed blade, outperforms knives triple it's price.
  
• Victorinox Tinker: $20-25 classic swiss army knife, really great quality in general. Lots of tools but not too many so it's easily pocket carried.
  
• Victorinox Cadet: Smaller Swiss Army Knife, aluminum handles. Lots of colors.
  
• Kershaw Cryo, or Cryo 2: $20-40 steel frame lock, Hinderer design, good price, tons of colors. The Cryo 2 is the same as the Cryo just larger.
  
• Ontaro Rat 1 or 2: $25-30 Classically shaped folders with a very rugged build for a liner lock. The 2 is a smaller version of the 1.
  
  Also, you're going to want a sharpening system that works for you in the long run. I personally use the Spyderco Sharpmaker But there are tons of good sharpening options out there.
  
  P.S: You're going to get a lot of people hating on your Gerbers most likely, that's because they're honestly not worth it in the long run. They use very low quality steel for the price and they don't have the best quality control. I'm not saying your Gerbers are trash or anything. But they definitely won't last very long. Just about all of the knives I listed will last you a lifetime if you treat them right, and oil/sharpen them correctly.

I started with this then got one of these for removing larger chunks.
*note the irwin one comes with a factory edge meaning it will need to be sharpened...so you'll need one of these and this to get that baby super sharp. then run it over the flat part of this and you'll be in like Flynn.

Also the flexcut slip strop if used every 20 minutes of carving (with any tool) will keep the edges super sharp for longer, meaning you dont have to go to the harsh stone right away. Also, note, when using the stone, to soak for at least 20 minutes before using. There are plenty of great youtube videos out there teaching proper sharpening technique for all sorts of tools with Water stones.

I'd also suggest a wooden mallet and a larger heavier one, or I just use a rubber mallet. Also while you're at it, grab a coping saw to remove large areas of unwanted wood. Make sure you have a vice to hold your wood or some sort of block device.

I'm still waiting on my carving knives from Here. They have a back order of 6-8 weeks! I got a straight (sloyd) knife and a hook knife for spoon carving and such.

So far that's where I'm at. Hope that helps.

"Dikes". Believe it or not, those are diagonal cutters.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagonal_pliers

Look under "jargon".

Also, as an aside, if you want high quality "channel locks" look no further than a German brand called Knipex (pronounced Kinnepex). I'm partial to the push button Cobra plier, but the more traditional "water pump plier" is also excellent. They cost a lot more than Channel Lock, but they have excellent leverage and really tough jaws that are narrow enough to fit into spaces other brands can't reach.

They also make a tool called the Pliers Wrench that replaces your adjustable crescent wrench and doesn't slip, need constant adjustment or round off corners.

Finally, their high leverage "dikes" get extremely high ratings.

Sorry to sidetrack you with a sales pitch, but I got excited when I read that you were starting to shop for better tools. If I had known about this brand ten years ago, I would have bought them first instead of wasting my money on cheaper tools.

I would strongly recommend something like this norton whetstone kit to start. Nothing will give you a better edge. You will have a small learning curve, and when you are ready you can progress to even higher grade stones for truly sharper than razor performance.

Your knives will look and cut beautifully. There are many tutorials and videos available online.

Using stones you can achieve a much sharper knife than the sharpening systems will deliver. You can keep the edge on the knife with an ultrafine ceramic steel.

Seriously. It's worth the money.

Just to add to this, if OP goes the route of getting a whetstone to sharpen, I would also recommend a flattening stone. After a couple runs on the whetstone you'll end up with divots and grooves in the stone, which can make future sharpening pretty miserable if your stone isn't perfectly flat. (found this out the hard way after damaging one of my straight razors by plowing the finished edge into a divot) Using the flattening stone will ensure a perfectly flat working surface and give you the best edge.


I use this one and it works well, though I'm sure there are other good options available.

The dirty stones NEED to be clean, if its white, it needs to be white or as close as you can get it. That kind of dirtiness from metal shaving and cross grit contamination makes the finer grits absolutely useless. Then you can visibly see the unevenness and where it dips, even a little bit makes sharping difficult if not impossible.

First you need to start to clean it up- I would start with boiling in a light degreaser solution for a couple hours. Your mostly removing any oils that were used and if your lucky it any gummed up debree will go along with it. This will allow you use water to cut, which you should unless stated otherwise, however many people use oil because they think its better and what they forget it makes stones difficult to clean.


Then if you need to still clean it up, grab a scoring pad any can detergent powder; Ajax or comet are probably easy to find, and I've heard Bar Keepers Friend does an outstanding job. Wear some gloves(maybe eye protection) grab a bucket and some water and start scrubbing. The oxalic acid in BKF will break down the left over metal shavings leaving you with a clean stone.


Now the first thing you do before using any stone is lap it. ALL stones need to be flattened even if they were new or used. Grab a sharpie and draw an "X" and "+" across the tops of the stone. Now THE cheapest way is find a cinder block and grab lots of water and make a figure 8 patter until ALL the lines are gone. You will see the high points disappear and the dips stay there. Make it all go away together. If you don't have a cinder block laying around you could buy a cheap lapping stone made to do just this.

Now your stones are ready to use and you will probably figure out which grit is which by then too, because our guess is as good as yours. but judging by use, they are already in order from rough to fine. The low grit is probably the first one, its too high for regular use and mostly repair, The mid grit gives you a nice sharp edge and every blade is going to at least get this edge. The fine grit gets used but not as much, it takes just that much more time to sharpen and some knifes and people aren't worth the extra effort.

I've painted Xbox one controllers. You could always attempt to tighten up the screws a little with a T8 Security but that honestly probably won't do much. These controllers are assembled and fit together much better than the Xbox 360 controllers.

If you're going to take it apart or tighten it up. One of the screws is under the sticker under the batteries. Make sure you peel that off gently if you're going to replace it, because opening a controller up does void your warranty.

I'd just chalk it up to it being cheaper plastic than the 360 controller.

Here's the latest controller I've done.

Freehand and under $15 the Whetstone Cutlery 400/1000 Grit Whetstone is a nice starting affordable freehand whetstone.

Guided and under $25 the Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener is a nice mini complete package that includes a 220 grid diamond plate for chip repair, a fine 600 grit diamond plate, 1000+ grit ceramic rod and a leather strop with compound.

You can also send the knife back to Kershaw for a free sharpening then just invest in a nice strop with compound to touch up the edge. Done properly you only need to send it back to Kershaw probably once a year if that.

This is a great low tech solution, just keep in mind the head will break if you use it too much, and this completely bypasses the cons of making it in the first place.

Actually buying a trihead is always the best solution (I have 4 of them), especially since they sell for almost nothing on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Tri-wing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-Gamecube-Gameboy/dp/B000S6AG9G/

That's one I bought for a buck and a half, but it took almost a month to arrive, haha. They ship it all the way from China. If you spend another $1.50 (gasp!) you can get it with Prime and in 2 days shipping though.

http://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/

tl;dr I highly encourage people not to use the melted plastic method.

Direct Burial the only drawback is price its very very expensive if that is not a concern the only other issue is the grease that they put inside just have a few paper towels on hand. I am personally a fan of the pull through RJ45 crimps https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FI9VU2&pd_rd_r=F3DK2M04KMB56TMZA4K2&pd_rd_w=tcXRA&pd_rd_wg=ggomX&psc=1&refRID=F3DK2M04KMB56TMZA4K2&dpID=41jjLiPUwkL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

but you need a special tool to cut it off clean. https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524701919&sr=8-3&keywords=ez+rj45&dpID=41xnvb1PL8L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I especially like these as you can double check that you have not messed up as you pull them through just do a double check on your colour's

in Canada we tend to use T568a but i believe a lot of places use T568b personal preference, http://www.cables-solutions.com/difference-between-straight-through-and-crossover-cable.html

I have never found any conduit that gets buried to be able to stop water ingress but any electrical supply store should be able to set you up with whatever you need but direct burial should be used as well especially if your in a place like Canada with a large temperature range.

You could possibly save some weight with a couple little things like the spade, multitool, headlamp etc.

http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Dime-Multi-Tool-Black-30-000469/dp/B006M9NIDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457458207&sr=8-1&keywords=gerber+dime

~ 2.3 oz saves 5.4 oz at $16

http://gossamergear.com/deuce-of-spades.html

~ .17 oz saves about 4.2 oz at $20

http://www.amazon.com/Petzl-e-LITE-26-Lumens/dp/B008AUBOTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457458402&sr=8-1&keywords=petzl+e-lite

~ 1oz saves 1.2 oz at $30



No cost
Leave the wallet at home

saves 4oz

Don't take as much hand sanitizer. Put in a smaller dropper bottle

saves ~ 1.7 oz


Total saves about 16.5 oz or just over a pound for $66.


Otherwise if you want a big ticket item maybe the pack would be a good upgrade. http://www.zpacks.com/backpacks/arc_blast.shtml is 21oz at $325. But you might want to sort out your final tent before your pack so that you know your pack is the right size for your gear. tarptent.com has light weight tents for 2 people for under $300 like the squall 2 at a total of 34oz. that would save you about 30oz.

>I was looking for advice on what type of sharpening stones I should get?

Water stones or oil stones. Your choice. It's a completely personal preference and you really can't go wrong either way.

>Can I sharpen tools like a chisel, plane blade, cabinet scraper with the same set of stones?

Yep. Although cabinet scrapers I've never seen stones used. Just a flat block w/ sandpaper and a burnishing rod.

>Is it recommended to get a honing guide?

Depends on what you're sharpening. Honing guides help tremendously with chisels or any flat blade plane. They're not so useful on cambered blades.

>I'd appreciate a few suggestions. Thanks!

As an "all in 1 starter kit," Norton makes a great water stone kit that includes 220/1000/4000/8000 grit stones and a SiC flattening stone. Some people here and on lumberjocks swear by the "scary sharp" sharpening system, which is nothing more than varying grit sandpaper, some 3M spray adhesive, and a flat surface like a glass pane.

Assuming it's mounted to an inside wall, it's probably not insulated, meaning it's extremely easy to feed the wires inside the wall.

Using a keyhole saw, cut a small hole behind the monitor. I suggest using a stud finder with A/C detection to make sure you're not cutting into a stud or wires. Then cut another hole somewhere directly below that hole and just run the wires in one and out the other. It's super easy. You can get nice bezels to make the holes look pretty too:

keyhole saw

stud finder

bezel

Honestly, I have had two items very similar to this one and almost never use them. It sounds lazy, but it's generally too much of a pain to fish any of the tiny tools out of your wallet to do any job they could actually perform. Generally, it just ends up being faster/easier to find another tool or make due without. That being said, I use the Leatherman Micra I have attached to my keychain on a daily basis. It's got better craftsmanship than any credit card multi-tool you'll buy, and the fact that it's all one piece makes it easier to use IMO. Plus it's not that expensive, so why not just splurge and get something nicer? Link below if you're interested.

http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333398657&sr=8-1

For what your needs are I would say you need a hand drill and a hobby knife (xacto) not files. I have used a cheap knife from my local hobby stores to slice off iconography before and it is very easy although you do need to file off some remains. As for magnitizing you want a hand drill with the right sized drill bits. As for recommendations I recently got a pack of files off amazon for cheap that I am loving.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUKYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vcZvyb0CSA63A

Definitely buy tools based on the project(s) you have to do, but I think a good start would include:

Hand planer (Vintage Stanley Bailey is ideal)

A few chisels (Narex are a good option if you're on a budget)

Combination Square

Marking Knife (Stanley makes one that Paul Sellers recommends: Amazon)

Marking/Mortising Gauge(s): I think Crown is the only company making reliable ones with pins vs. the more common cutting disc.

Saw: I got this to start, its sharp as all heck, and has a crosscut and rip edge Japanese Ryoba

I own two pro controllers and I love them for Wind Waker, Pikmin, and Tropical Freeze. I'm pretty sure it'll be a great substitute for Gamecube controllers. The color scheme is a bit of an issue, as there currently exist only 2 colors, black and white, and if you want every controller to be different, the only thing you can do (which I highly reccomend) is to take the controllers apart with a fancy nintendo screwdriver and trade the buttons around.

Thanks for some great advice and thread link! A couple quick questions.

Why would an Arkansas and Indina stone be hard on my Manix? The stone(s) I get, I'd prefer to be able to use on my Manix as well, once i get the hang of things.

Looking online I found that waterstones and whetstones are the same things with a different name, can you confirm?

So far I'm looking at this, but I really don't know what im looking for quite yet and hope to do more research before purchasing.

As a general rule, I'd prefer to spend a bit more for better quality and longevity. I also would highly prefer to use water over oil.

I've shaved off some leg hair with a chisel, but i guess my face would be much more sensitive. Also, if diamond plates aren't good enough, it seems I have some time to wait before I can start sharpening my own razors (not to say I cant get them sharpened). I'm only 17, so I dont have too much cash for a good sharpening system, so I'll probably stick to safety razors until i have the cash. Would a good start be to get [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Waterstone-Starter-Kit-flattening/dp/B000XK0FMU/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1420245448&sr=8-14&keywords=straight+razor+sharpening), a 12000 grit stone, and a strop once i get some cash?

pretty sure it is a gerber artifact. It has a flip out exacto knife and a Philips head. The split in the end is also a nail remover and great general leverage thingy.

I love mine. Just don't take it through an airport. They still tossed my first one even though I removed the blade.

There is nothing I know of to protect your existing thumbsticks but you can easily replace them. By buying a triwing screwdriver and replacement thumbsticks from amazon or ebay.

Triwing Screwdriver : https://www.amazon.com/DS-Tri-Wing-Triwing-Screwdriver-Nintendo-6304900/dp/B000VPBYS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467355222&sr=8-2&keywords=triwing+screwdriver+gamecube

Replacement Thumbsticks : https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Analogue-Thumbstick-Gamecube-Controller/dp/B01D0Y63NU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467354830&sr=8-3&keywords=gamecube+sticks

Happy Cubing!

Malthris

I bought 3 assisted opening knives:

• Leek - Ken Onion
  
• Flash II - SOG
  
• Some junky piece of shit - Smith & Wesson
  
  I'm not 100% satisfied with any of them. I like the SOG the best, but all of them have annoying locks on them that defeat the entire purpose of an auto opening knife. The purpose is to open them quickly with one hand. Well if the safety keeps getting turned on in your pocket then you end up fiddling with them.
  
  My brother on the other hand has a Ken Onion Black Blur and that seems to be a really good knife.

Your price range is pretty limited. Fixed knives are ideal for hiking not so much for a casual EDC.

Have you looked at the [Cryo 2 by Kershaw]( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d /B00AU6NWP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395338365&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40)? It's a fun knife, good for people with big paws and it's relatively cheap. (Not to be confused with the first Cryo, which is a smaller version of the 2)

Edit..I have huge paws, and happen to have a Cryo2 in my pocket for reference.
http://i.imgur.com/oVmlp09.jpg

First of all, never buy a matching set of knives. Instead, buy a generic knife storage block, and fill it out as you need it. I have this one from Amazon and like it a lot.

For chef's knives, I'm really happy with the Kiwi knives I got from the Wok Shop. They're certainly no Henkels or Wusthof, but they're absolutely fantastic for the price. They see daily use in my kitchen, right alongside my $100 Global santoku. Get a real whetstone (like this) and learn how to use it, and you can get a really nice edge on them too.

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

• Drywall knife (Something like Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kw7Ezb2HJYX5K)
  
  
• Cordless Drill (Even a regular corded drill will work)
  
  
• Flexbit for drilling through studs if needed (Something like Eagle Tool US EA37518 Auger Style Flex Installer Bit for Wood, 3/16" Shank Diameter, 3/8" Head Diameter x 18" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTFTORA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5x7Ezb81XWXP0)
  
  
• Glowrods (Something like 33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz7Ezb7YCC3GD)
  
  
• Stud finder if you don't know how to knock on the wall to find the studs
  
  
• Wire pass through vanity plates (
  DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VF7EzbAP6DKCZ)
  
  
• Tension bracket for drywall so you can mount the plates (Low Voltage Bracket Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PH7EzbM4KHX9H)
  
  
  If you are just going to mount the monitors right in front of your desk and don't need to go sideways like OP then you can just cut the drywall where you are going to mount the monitors and then go down to where your exit point will be and cut there and drop your wires through.
  
  If you need to do some fancy stuff - Ideally you would want to see if where all your studs were, measure the distance you'll need to bore through studs and then get glow rods and flex bits with sufficient length to do the job. Also your flex bit will need to be a big enough diameter to fit your cables through. Flex bits are super easy to work with.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

You can make a huge variety of joints with just a few tools. This is close to what my toolset looked like when I cut my first dovetails.

Note: None of these are affiliate links. I don't get paid if you buy these.

$28 Dozuki "Z" saw
I prefer western style saws (like the Veritas saw /u/jbaird recommended), but you will be able to cut very nice joints with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-07029-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495827959&sr=8-2&keywords=japanese+saw+dovetail

$14 Empire combination square
https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-E280-Professional-Combination/dp/B000EU0ZB0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828208&sr=8-4&keywords=combination+square

$10 pocket knife for laying down lines:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-049-Pocket-Knife-Rotating/dp/B00002X201/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828775&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+knife

$24 marking gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-152M-Miniature-Rosewood-Mortice/dp/B001V9KOSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828829&sr=8-1&keywords=rosewood+gauge

$35 chisel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SG70L4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You could also get:

$49 DMT coarse sharpening stone. Only sharpening stone you need. Get a strop eventually.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$5 Stanley Coping saw. Will help you remove dovetail waste.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-106-8-Inch-Length-4-Inch/dp/B00009OYG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495829310&sr=8-1&keywords=coping+saw

Provided you're gonna buy lumber that's already prepped, you should be good to go with the above. I'd suggest building things rather than 'practicing joinery'. You'll get plenty of joinery practice along the way :)

Do you know if he typically buys higher end tools or mid range? I ask because he probably already has something similar but a Starrett Square would be an awesome gift. I don't own one but would be trilled if someone randomly gave me one.

You could go with either the 13A Double Square or the 6" combination square. Both are around $70 and he would probably use it every project.

I'll also never go without one of these saw in my shop. Ryoba Japanese pull saw

Does he use hand planes? Kinda expensive but this plane is seeing lots of use in my shop now: Rabbet Block Plane

my edc is the kershaw blur, but I have the one with the serrated edge and I love it, its perfect in my opinion.

There might possibly be somewhere that would do that for a fee... but that fee would almost certainly be higher than the cost of a cheap Circular Saw, like this. Probably half your neighbors have one, too, for that matter.

Or if that's too rich, and you're feeling anti-social, drill a hole in it and use a jab saw... though that will take a while. Sigh... no drill? Yeah, just get the circular saw.

My razor is still sharp enough to shave with, I just can't get a very comfortable or close shave. I have had it professionally honed, but i'm looking for my own set-up. Will these stones get my razor back to tip-top condition, or does anyone have any better suggestions?

I believe I will also be needing a flattening stone, is this a good choice?
http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Flattening-Stone-Waterstones-plastic/dp/B00067ZSJ0/ref=pd_sbs_indust_6

Are there any other things I need to get started honing my own razor? Thanks in advance for the help!

This is why I love /r/woodworking (one of many reasons). I had my mind set on the Norton starter kit based on some earlier advice on a thread here. I was chatting with some other folks who talked up the Worksharp system and got interested. Hearing both that I'll get stones anyways and that they'll be useful long term even if I go with a machined route someday is helpful.

Here's what I'm planning on instead of the Worksharp system.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XK0FMU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I bought my parents the 12v Hitachi Impact and Drill set when it was on sale, and I have to say for just having and doing a few projects with, they are amazing. I built a shed with them: http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-KC10DFL-12-Volt-3-Tool-Carrying/dp/B001N2NTDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409179683&sr=8-1&keywords=Hitachi+12v

Everything else can be found used for way cheaper. Craigslist, Pawn Shops, even, and I suggest looking, Antique Shops (Most woodworking tools haven't changed in the last century)

Get 3 Hammers. A Framing, a Finnish, and a soft mallet, rubber or plastic.

A combo square

A framing square

Good tape measure

Get a decent handsaw, and a good "japan" saw (http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1409179974&sr=8-9&keywords=hand+saw)


For Furniture, get a tablesaw. You won't regret it. Get one from Craigslist, an older Delta, iron Craftsman or Grizzly.

Get a set of Chisels. Buck Brothers yellow at Home Depot will run you about 30$ for 3 and they are not bad at all.



And finally, get a Porter Cable D Handle router with an assortment of cheap bits.

With that you can do just about anything you could ever want.

This is the crimping tool I'm using. It seems ok, and had good reviews on Amazon. I will say that I'm having a hard time with the "pre-crimp," in that if I go all the way to 3 clicks, it's too far, so I'm having to stop at 2 clicks. Not sure that's causing an issue, though. I'm using 18 ga wire.

Based on some of the other comments, I'm pretty sure I was carrying the sleeving up too far, and that was making it hard to get the pin in the hole. I've back the sleeving up/trimmed some of it down, and it's going a little better.

Thanks for the response!

Yes but you have to actually open it up with screwdrivers. You need a T8 security screwdriver like this one Leegoal T8 Tamper Proof Screwdriver Security Torx Driver for XBOX 360 Wired and Wireless Controller Or PS3 Slim Disassembly CR-V Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9LYjybS95AE3F

When using a flattening stone..take a pencil and draw a two lines from corner to corner in an X pattern across the face of the stone. Then soak your sharpening stones as you would normally. Mount the referencing stone on your stone holder and place the sharpening stone X side down. Hold the sharpening stone down with your full palm with your other palm down to create solid pressure on the full stone across as much of the surface as possible. Stroke in an X pattern - upper left to lower right corner a few times and then switch to upper right/lower left a few times. Rinse sharpening stone and see how much of the penciled X has been removed, when it's gone from the center of the stone (should be the most worn area) then you're done. Don't forget to periodically rinse the flattening stone occasionally during the process to keep it's grit open and available.

and a little more info:

I'm a whore for Shapton stones, loved the way they sharpened and their longevity. I preferred the Professional Series but according to Shapton the glass were supposed to last longer because you can use all the stone down to the glass, I didn't buy into that idea. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shapton-Professional-Series-Stones-P741C84.aspx

You need to buy one of these if you haven't already gotten one, specifically with the center support. Way better than using a wet towel on the edge of the sink. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71013-Sharpening-Holder-2-Inch/dp/B00NFB2MTI

Link to Norton Flattening Stone: https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Flattening-Stone-Waterstones-plastic/dp/B00067ZSJ0/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1505326146&sr=1-6&keywords=flattening+stone

Shapton has their own lapping/referencing plate but it's $500: https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Shapton-Diamond-Reference-Lapping-Plate-P516C84.aspx
Link to Dick Polish (yes, that's really what's printed on the handle) https://www.knifemerchant.com/product.asp?productID=1393

And find a Sally's Beauty Supply Near you and get one of these bottles. Small enough that when filled it's not too heavy to wield and good for adding water to your stones during sharpening: http://www.sallybeauty.com/sheer-mist-trigger-sprayer/SBS-292048,default,pd.html?list=Search_Results#q=spray+bottle&start=1

I have the same issue and so do many others. It hasn't impacted game play but you are right, it is annoying. Is your console still under warranty or did you buy the extended one by chance? I have sent a couple of mine in when they got to the point where the joystick felt a little too loose for my liking and they sent me free replacements, no questions asked.

If not, there are several tutorials on Youtube that show you step-by-step how to open up the controller and fix the problem. You do need a special screwdriver, though. This is the one I bought to have on hand in case I ever needed it in the future. The description of the product says Xbox 360 but several people have mentioned in the product reviews that it works on the Xbox One as well.

Been here lurking for a while and finally decided to post my EDC. Since there's been some discussion lately as to where people carry their EDC that is how my list below is broken down. Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Head

• Seahawks Superbowl Champions Hat
  
  Neck
  
  
• Seahawks lanyard with work ID, keycard, desk keys
  
  Left Wrist
  
  
• Suunto Vector in Military Foliage Green
  
  Front Left Pocket
  
  
• EZGO Slim
  
• KOBALT Multitool
  
• HTC One with White Otter Box Commuter Case
  
• Olight S15 Baton
  
  Front Right Pocket
  
  
• Carabiner with 4x Nite Ize S-Biners Size 0, Gerber Shard and KeySmart Standard Size
  
• Gerber Impromptu
  
• Kershaw Cryo 2
  
  Back Left Pocket or In-Hand
  
  
• Rite in the Rain Notebook
  
• Rite in the Rain Notebook Cover
  
  For those interested in the EZGO and KeySmart my opinions are as follows.
  
  I like the EZGOs form-factor, but after owning it for a while it doesn't 'stretch' at all for what's in there. I have two credit cards, ID, insurance and a punch card in mine and it's like pulling teeth to get anything out of it. Also, since it's made to fit cards, anything bigger than that can't be accommodated. As a result I have my CPL, vehicle insurance and KOBALT tool rubber-banded to the thing. I've been eyeing the Flipside 3X as a replacement, but their shipping is around $7 which is over 10% the cost of the wallet... hence my apprehension in buying one.
  
  As for the KeySmart, I've had it a couple of days and so far I dig it but with a couple of caveats. They include two keyblanks for Schlage-style keys. I took one of them to Lowe's to have it cut and there was an issue with the blank, as a result their machine could not provide an accurate copy. I purchased a key from Lowe's and they made it without issue. Not sure what kind of weird science is up with the blanks they included, but I would be leery of buying their 'lightweight' and colored blanks as you may have similar results. My second issue may be somewhat nitpicky, but it's next to impossible to open the door with one hand anymore. Hands full of groceries or mail? Well, you better plan ahead on getting your key flipped out prior to getting to the door, other wise you'll be settin' that shit down.
  
  Would I buy the EZGO Slim again? No. Would I buy the KeySmart again? Yes.

Here is what I consider the bare necessities:

Radius block: Get one with the radius to match your fretboard. Attach self-adhesive sandpaper or use double-sided tape, mark your frets with a Sharpie, and start leveling.

Fret crowning file: Pick one that's the appropriate size for your frets. You can find info on what size to use on Stew Mac's site.

Needle files: These are just good to have. They'll be helpful to file the fret ends among other things.

Extra fine sandpaper/0000 steel wool: Once your frets are shaped, you will want to polish them. Steel wool won't give you the shiniest finish, but it's perfectly presentable. If you want mirror-finish frets, use fine sandpapers or fret erasers. ALWAYS mask your pickups or do your fretting with the neck detached from the body. You will end up with fret filings and steel wool particles all over your pups otherwise.

For tutorials and advice, check out r/Luthier or the Crimson Guitars YouTube channel.

Thank you for your reply!

I currently have those 2 whetstones:

• 1000/6000 (https://www.amazon.ca/King-Japanese-Combination-Sharpening-KW-65/dp/B00M8P96QE/)
  
• 400/100 (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0055B2RGO/)
  
  As a side note, I thought there would be more difference performance wise between the whustof and the henckles international, since they have such a significant price difference. I know they use the same steel but I thought perhaps a thinner blade?! Anyway, if the only performance improvement is the handle, that is definitely not worth the upgrade.

The R button failing is a fairly common issue with the earlier 3ds models. I have one of the smoke black ( I suppose ) models and had to open it up and replace the switch in mine.

They are very easily replaced and fairly cheap as well. Here is a set from amazon. Go ahead and watch a tutorial on youtube first if you're hesitant. Oh you'll probably need a tri-wing screwdriver. Most Nintendo stuff requires one. Here is another amazon link to a cheap driver.

Good luck and have fun!

My main EDC knife is a Kershaw Cryo 2 I love it because I'm a fidgeter too and the assisted opening action on this knife is very satisfying to me. Its a little more than $30 on amazon right now but I got mine for about $25 so they do have sales on them. Also its slightly on the heavier side for the size and I know you said you wanted light. Personally I like the heft. If you can find one locally somewhere I'd recommend picking it up and flicking it open a few times.

I think Norton waterstones are one of the best values out there. You can get the four grits as combination stones (two sides with different grits on each side) to save even more:

https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Japanese-Style-Combination-Waterstone-8-Inch/dp/B0006NFDOY

https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Japanese-Style-Combination-Waterstone-8-Inch/dp/B0006NFDPI

Here's a video about using them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfRxMsTOOeE

Platinum Tools 100054C Clamshell EZ-RJPRO HD Crimp Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k2Z6CbXKTBCPQ

This is what I use at work. Great tool. Really heavy duty. But also a pretty penny. Work bought em and I can say it is honestly one tool that I have that's quality.

Or even a drywall saw. I've got this Stanley Fat Max that I bought for actual drywall but I've recently been using it a fair amount as a general purpose saw when I want to shove something in a small space. World's best pumpkin carving knife/saw, too.

Don't listen to the guys saying you need to buy truck brands like Snap-on or MAC, they are overpriced and while they are very good quality the biggest reason mechanics use them is because they are frequently visited by the tool trucks meaning exchanging broken tools is easy. For the home mechanic they are extreme overkill.

Craftsman is OKAY, despite the detractor whining they are chinese-made (and lets be honest, unless you willing to pony up most tools you will buy will be Chinese anyways). I put them at the same level as Harbor Freight (at least the Harbor Freight Pro line, it will say on the label) mostly because they both have the same return policy on hand tools, if it breaks take it to the store and get it replaced.

I would put the box store brands (Husky for Home Depot and Kobalt for Lowes) in the same category as Craftsman and Harbor Freight but don't because while they have the same life time warranty on paper as HF and Sears (at least until it goes bankrupt like people have been predicting for a decade) I have heard stories of them making it either very difficult or impossible to return and exchange broken tools.

Either way unless you need high precision tools like torque wrenches, tractor wrenches, or high strength impacts you really can't go wrong with anything above discount bin or dollar store tool sets. The important thing is having the proper tool for the job, no using 3/8 ratchets to break rusted lug nuts business. I will also stress don't buy gimmick tools like spline sockets or ratcheting wrenches.

If what you are really looking for it tools off the beaten path I would recommend SK, Williams, Bahco, Craftsman Professional, and Proto for hand tools. The first 3 are OEMs for the truck brands and can usually be bought cheaper then them except for being a little harder to find, the Craftsman Professional line is still made in the US (with the price tag to match), and Proto is the pro line for Stanley.

Wera, Wiha, Kline, Knipex are all good brands for screwdrivers and pliers. I wouldn't know to much about them except for the decade old Kline crimper I have that's still chugging along after all the abuse I've heaped on it, and electricians swear by them. Knipex also makes one of the greatest tools known to man, probably the only gimmick tool worth it's salt.

This thread can give you a good starting point if you would like the truck brand quality without the truck brand price.

You also can't go wrong browsing craigslist for people who are upsizing/upgrading/retiring/downsizing and looking to dump their old stuff.

Heres some stuff I found.

For the political

Everyone loves a swiss army knife.

Or a leatherman

Or another leatherman

Gun: A Visual History

I actually own the last book. Its a pretty cool little book to flip through now and again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009VCA0I/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_pre_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure about the specific's but it's this one. I saw it cheaper on amazon so I hope I did good haha

The Condor Bushlore is a great inexpensive knife. Carbon steel, full tang, etc. The old ones were not that great but there have been many improvements so the new ones are a fantastic value. You can baton firewood with it all day long. Get a knife pro to put a Scandi grind on it and you'll be set for a long time.

Secondly, get a set of Japanese water stones and learn how to use them.

Even the most expensive unobtanium-carbon quantum hattori hanzo japanese nanosteel knife can be ruined by improper maintenance (e.g. pull-through carbide blade destroyers).

Start with 1000 grit. You can also get 800 grit for fixing chips and other damage. The K-80 is a good starter set. If you want to sharpen your kitchen knives 'shaving sharp' then pick up an additional 4000/6000 grit stone for fine polishing.

Search /r/bushcraft for further knife and sharpening advice.

I'd suggest a Knipex Pliers Wrench (expensive, but very nice to use for a lot of projects) and some spring punches and a head lamp to keep both hands free to use all your other tools.

For Light Carry:

• Leatherman Style PS - TSA approved or Leatherman Micra
  
  
• Fenix E12 Flashlight - I believe this is the successor to the EO5
  
  
• Zebra F-301 Pen or Fisher Bullet Space Pen - the stainless wears better in your pocket.
  
  
• Moleskin Volant Notebook
  
  
• SOG Flash I - if you can swing the extra $10 or get the cheaper pen, I HIGHLY recommend this knife as a very minimal yet practical knife. I've sort of chunked the rest and this one is with me all the time. Also very public-friendly size.
  
  

You can always go the traditional whetstone route and learn to freehand sharpen. As long as you're patient and diligent the process is very relaxing and rewarding. I'll throw some links to some good stones in here for ya:
Whetstone Cutlery | Beginner Stone for Sharpening
Sharp Pebble | Beginner Stone for Finishing

I also recommend you check out Burrfection on youtube for a good overview of beginner knife sharpening using whetstones. You'll save money, albeit use more time learning a new skill with this path but it's my preferred method of sharpening on the cheap currently.

I would add that the soldering iron must have a pointy tip! I've been trying to replace my modules, but the stock tips are huge (for the intended work) I could not reach the spots to melt.
The one i'm using https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B3SG6UQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1



Also, be sure that the Torx are Security Torx! They have the hollow star shape and also an inside round tip. https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sbs_469_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&pd_rd_r=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR&pd_rd_w=jAo1O&pd_rd_wg=DYMkI&psc=1&refRID=Z51XSKAB8PX325052JVR

Even better, post it to /r/knifeclub.

It looks like it might have come from one or both of them originally though. That's a Kershaw Cryo II, one of the most popular budget blades out there

Edit: Actually after looking closer, the longer clip suggests it's the original Cryo, not the Cryo II. They're very similar though.

Have you had any luck finding hones?

If it helps this is what i started with, as a cheap getting started set.


(DMT)http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


(1000)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Taidea-1000-Grit-Knife-Kitchen-Tool-Sharpener-Corundum-Sharpening-Stone-T0913W-/131025875380?pt=AU_Cutlery&hash=item1e81c031b4 (you can pretty much skip this if you get the one above)


(3000/8000)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TAIDEA-Tool-Knife-Sharpener-Sharpening-Stone-Whetstone-3000-8000-Grit-T0914W-/141431193126?pt=AU_Cutlery&hash=item20edf4be26


(12000)http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/144951/natural-water-stone-8-x-2-x-1.aspx (skip this if you get the one below)


(15000)http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LARGE-8-x-3-V-FINE-15K-NATURAL-SHARPENING-STONE-HONE-RAZOR-KNIFE-CHISEL-/181547520228?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a451350e4 I think this might be underrated for for its price, I can get HHT off this stone.

250-1000 combo

I would go with this. my 1000 grit stone is my main stone for re-sharpening. For edge-nick repair or re-profiling an edge's geometry I start on my 400 or 220 stone. I don't even crack out my 1000+ stones unless I'm doing something fancy.

Also, get yourself a truing stone. It's important with water stones because they wear and dish out quickly. (It's in their nature to do so, it's why they cut faster than oil stones.) I have something like this because it's easy to use.

You could also use wet-dry sand paper or a flat piece of cement or something but that's a lot less convenient. You will be lapping a lot. To keep mine flat I lap as needed which usually amounts to about 20% of the time I spend using that stone.

I find a good stropping with green buffing compound makes a huge difference to the final "glide" of the edge.

A friend of mine who paints minis recommended that I get small files to clean up my prints. I just got some from Amazon and tried them out last night. They make a huge difference

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUKYS

Yes! Use these all the time with great success. You'll need the crimpers to go with them as they cut off the extra wire.

The bottom budget (or lowest you could go without blaming your sharpening equipment for failure) would be a Norton combination India stone or King combination water stone, plus some honing compound and a scrap of denim or leather glued to a block of wood for a strop.

Use a honing guide like this if you aren't comfortable trying free hand.

A tool is sharp when two surfaces (the back/face and bevel) meet at a sharp corner with ~0 radius. The edge is honed/refined on finer and finer stones to get a better surface finish and better edge retention.

Here are some tutorials with and without a honing guide. I recommend watching both, because each covers a different aspect of initial chisel prep.

On top of your sharpening equipment, work from both sides and use knife lines to prevent blow out.

This problem could be solved if you're willing to put a little more love into it. I've been thinking about getting one of these babies and a honing stone and a nice strop. These things will last you the rest of your life if you treat them well enough.

I suggest a driver with a shaft long and thin enough to reach the screw in case it is recessed in a narrow hole.

Best bet is to get a smallish driver with a thin shaft 2-4 inches in length like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Security-Wireless-Controller-Disassembly/dp/B004YUB6ZU/ref=pd_sim_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004YUB6ZU&pd_rd_r=ec303680-c4b4-11e8-82da-57b640a56e37&pd_rd_w=La8sL&pd_rd_wg=df6ft&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=56838e6b-66d4-41e0-a762-743f1a1a628a&pf_rd_r=66XG0SR5G3355VAA3Q16&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=66XG0SR5G3355VAA3Q16

Other options like those multi-bit driver sets are great for most cases but those bits may be too short or too fat to handle some situations. Of course you can get a set of long, thin bits as well but that's likely too much tooling than you want.

Amazon and
Gerber

I would be interested to know your thoughts. Ive had it on 4 trips so far and its worked great.

edit: Seems the reviews are tough on the pliers holding up with use. I use them to pull fishhooks which is pretty light work

Oh PLEASE don't use that type of sharpener on any sort of quality knife. You're just going to get a jagged edge and a tone of steel removed each time. Get even a cheap whetstone and you will be much happier with a knife that lasts much longer :)

These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

16 AWG Guage Wire

Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)

Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)

Crimping Tool

SATA Power Connector

SATA Passthrough Cap

SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap

Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good

ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)

ATX Header Housing

If you're happy with carbon steel, there are reasonable nakiri at €30 to €50 out there:

• http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nakiri-Kitchen-Knife-165mm-Kurouchi-Shirogami-Steel-Double-Edged-Japan-Black/262591519234
  
  
• http://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-Knife-Tojiro-Sushi-Chef-White-Steel-Shirogami-Black-Finished-Nakiri-F-S-/261548612811
  
  
• http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gihei-Japanese-Kitchen-Chef-Knife-White-Carbon-Steel-Black-Finish-Nakiri-Usuba-/252145118237
  
  > I don't really have whetstones nor the money to invest on something like that
  
  You can get a working whetstone for €20, maybe less. You don't need 5 x €100 stones.
  
  
• https://www.amazon.de/Japanischer-Schleifstein-Kombination-Körnung-1000/dp/B0000Y7LAS/
  
  ... or maybe a cheap fine diamond plate:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.de/Diamant-Kombi-Schleifstein-speziell-Keramikmesser-Körnung/dp/B00IG6E560/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.de/Am-Tech-Extra-Diamond-Stone-E2560/dp/B0057FDC9E/

If you are getting a traditional knife then consider also budgeting for a few types of whetstones. Learning how to use them and caring for a high carbon steel knife is part of the art and tradition.

I have these stones:

Seido 600/1000

Seido 3000/8000

Leather Strop (because it's a handy way to hone)

Flatening Stone (to level the whetstones after they show wear)

Video on Sharpening a Single Bevel Knife

Post your knife choice, once you buy it. Good luck!

Phone: iPhone 5c + cheap Spigen case

Watch: Seiko SKX007 + Super Oyster II Bracelet

Wallet: Radix One

Keychain: Remove Before Flight tag, Sandisk Ultra Fit, Dollar Store Carabiner

Keychain Multitool: Victorinox Classic OR Leatherman Micra

Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool

Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream

Pen: Fisher Space Pen OR Modded Zebra 701

Yoyo: The Sage (for now)

First post, any questions or suggestions please feel free. Thanks guys!

I love my Leatherman micra, has tweezers and great scissors. Mine weigh 2.25 oz.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCN0FG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kLmcAb660BBX2

So much more than just a bottle opener. Gerber-Artifact, I used to carry expensive knives but then just kept loosing them, so I got this to put on my key chain now. It's pretty sweet. and only $10

I would look at something like this. They get great reviews for the price and yes to ensure square cuts I would use a shooting board to get it dialed in after cross cutting.

Would this be alright for flattening? Or is a diamond plate the best option for stone flattening?

It looks like a ryoba pull saw. I like the Gyuokucho Noko Giri, link below. These are great saws. I own this one and the Dozuki.

https://www.amazon.com/Ryoba-Double-Razor-Hardwoods-Woodworker/dp/B00BSQU9UQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497625925&sr=8-1&keywords=gyokucho+ryoba

I bought this one and some random bits for it (not sure what they're called, maybe pin housing?), and everything works great.

$23 isn't bad. The end result is worth it, and it's much faster than soldering for me

In terms of pocketknives for every day carry I usually have my Kershaw Ken Onion Blur on me, which is a 3.4" assisted open lockblade and is perfectly legal to carry in your pocket. It's by far my favorite cheap-ish pocketknife I've ever owned.

That being said I carry it because I need it at work frequently, not for defense. Frankly carrying a knife for defense is a dumb idea and you're way better off just buying pepper spray if that's what you want a knife for.

Some things that I'd consider missing but important would be: a bottom bracket tool, crank puller, cone wrenches (for those who have cup and cone bearings), torx drivers (for disc brakes). I'm not sure about the cable puller (it's a nice to have). I'd put a small grease gun and some nitrile gloves above a cable puller. I'd replace the spanner set with an adjustable crescent wrench (or better yet, a Knipex plier wrench - they're amazing). I also keep scissors in my kit for silly things (cutting handlebar tape, opening packages, etc.).

I wholeheartedly agree with omitting a spoke wrench ; )

Okay, this one is not exactly beginner, but for me no tool set is really complete without Knipex pliers. The parallel jaw design gives them an amazing combination of adjustment range and gripping power, all without marring the surface of bicycle components. They are expensive, but well worth it.

I bought this box for $17 and I'm pretty happy with it. I was able to make a decent wooden box out of semi-warped walnut- first try with mitred joints. I have a handsaw similar to the one you have as well as a japanese-style shark saw which I used for the walnut pieces as the smaller teeth provide a better edge. The only issue with the shark saw is that it's not very rigid so I had to kind of guide it with my knuckles so that it would stay in the mitre guides.

The advantage of that mitre box is that those plastic pegs work really well for quickly clamping and unclamping your piece, you just have to take care that you don't move the piece when you are rotating the peg to tighten it (easy to do) and make sure it's really tight. The vibration and movement of the saw will make it come loose unless it's really tight.

As far as the circular saw, you are very limited in what kind of mitering you can do just by changing the angle of the blade. It's hard to explain, but if you envision different kinds of cuts you might want to do and how you would do it just by angling the circular saw blade, you can start to see how limited it is.

tl;dr: for $17 I would say it's a good investment even if you only use it a few times a year.

Edit: sorry, I missed the part where you mentioned the workbench. I agree with jdepcad, you don't need it for that project.

If all you’re doing is putting in a pass through for cables to exit the wall then you’d be better off using a grommeted and brushed pass through plate than just drilling a hole. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07712TG67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ghPdBbACZAGD2

All you’d need to install it is a simple drywall saw: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JjPdBb2VZ0T7G

Edit: also note that permanent install of extension cords could be a code violation depending on where you live. The post isn’t super clear what you’re running and to where.

So there are two types of japanese pull saws. The dozuki, like you linked, is for finer items such as dovetails and such. The second type is the ryoba. These are 2 sided saws, one is filed for rip and one for crosscut which comes in handy. This is the type that you would more likely need if you aren't strictly just trying to cut dovetails/jointery. You could definitely use it to section up a piece of ply, however I will warn you that any hand saw is going to take you a long while section up sheet goods of any kind, especially something like ply with its interchanging grains.

Ok, I did this before, let me tell you what we learned.

CAUTIONARY STORY:

• In our case, the mirror was about 8' wide and 4' tall.
  
  
• Surprise! The mirror was NOT attached to the wall with ANYTHING other than the visible fasteners.
  
  
• When we removed the fasteners, we foolishly thought it was going to stay attached to the wall. It did NOT. In fact, after about 20 seconds, it suddenly started to fall forward off of the wall. My mother happened to be standing right there, facing away, and did not see this happening. I was also standing right there and managed to stop the mirror right before it hit her head, and it had fallen almost 75 degrees. I thought it broke my wrists because it hit me so hard. I almost fell down from the force.
  
  
• The mirror did not break (incredibly, considering how much stress I must have put on the middle). I also discovered it weighed a lot more than I thought. I could not hold the weight of the mirror by myself (and I'm not a little guy - 6' 4" and 200 lbs) and was starting to lose it. My father stepped in and helped hold it.
  
  
• It was so heavy and large we could not lift it back up, and could not lower it down with just the two of us. My mother literally ran to the next door neighbors and got two guys to help us.
  
  
• We finally managed to lower it safely. But ... holy shit. That could have killed someone.
  
  MY SUGGESTIONS
  
  Hire someone! Seriously! Pay them $100 or so and be done with it. It's not even worth the time and effort you will go through.
  
  Okay, you want to DIY? Here's what I would do:
  
  
• Buy two pieces of 1/2" plywood, cut 5' x 4' (so they fit in the middle) and use them to help reinforce and safely handle the mirror. Tape or glue them to the mirror. This will minimize the chance of breaking.
  
  
• This saw may allow you to remove it - it's designed to remove countertops
  
  
• Do not let it break. That will be a disaster. It's either going to be a 10 minute job or an 8 hour cleanup. Worse, it may break and slice someone and put you in the hospital. Now you have a hazmat cleanup too!
  
  
• Expect the mirror to suddenly fall off the wall when you are working on it!
  
  
• Expect it to weigh a LOT more than you thought - easily 200 pounds in my opinion.
  
  
• A mirror that large? You will be glad you have 6-8 people helping.
  
  
• Buy 4 of these - $6 each. They are cheap and tremendously helpful.
  
  
• You should have some sort of ladders setup on each side that will safely allow someone to walk the mirror down on each side.
  
  
• Put down a thick, non-slippery, non-TRIP covering/tarp just in case, and get rid of anything nearby.
  
  Good luck.

The Narex Premium chisels are often recommended on this sub as one of the best bang-per-buck sets available. They are in your pricerange. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/narex-premium-bench-chisel-set-wooden-box.aspx

I personally got the 4-piece set here: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/narex-premium-chisel-set-4.aspx and haven't found myself wanting for more.

I will note they are going to also require some sharpening stuff -- and that might end up costing you just as much as the chisels themselves. I picked up this set (https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Waterstone-Starter-Kit-flattening/dp/B000XK0FMU) and have been happy with it... though I wish I would have gotten a diamond stone for the coarse stuff (the narex chisels have good, hard, steel but take a bit of lapping to get that back flat...)

Honestly, stones are your best (and possibly cheapest) option if you're willing to put in a little bit of effort to understand how to use them. Even the cheapest, simplest one will work wonders. Personally I use this one: $13 https://www.amazon.com/Whetstone-Cutlery-20-10960-Sharpening-Stone-Sharpener/dp/B0055B2RGO

It's fantastic for actually putting an edge back on to a dull-as-shit knife, and the 1000 grit is more than enough to absolutely change your mind on what "sharp" should be. It's not going to be the "as-seen-in-Youtube-videos cutting silk scarves" sharp, but will be more than enough to improve your knife skills. And if you want to go crazy, this one (which progressively gets it sharper and sharper) is only another $15:

https://www.amazon.com/TOOPONE-Sharpener-Sharpening-Japanese-Whetstone/dp/B07B7HVHT5

Watch a youtube video on how to do it (it's really not that hard), and go to town. You won't regret it.

Looks like a pretty useful little tool for a altoid kit. Less than 20 bucks on Amazon.

I'd go with a Kershaw. Good quality for the price. The Blur is a good knife, I have one. A Kershaw Leak is also a great knife. It's much more concealable.

http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Onion-Black-Smooth-Folding/dp/B0009VCA0I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398115825&sr=8-2&keywords=Kershaw+Blur

You buy the $25 ratcheting ones from amazon.


I have some $600 - $900 crimpers, but DuPont like in the picture doesn’t require it.

There’s a lot of skill involved with it, don’t solder your wires to the pins, take the time and get good with them.


IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eKYSDb81BFEFY

Here's a few really good gifts that I got recently:

Highly recommended:

• Gyokucho Ryoba $39
  
• Pocket Tape Measure $4
  
• Trimming Plane $7
  
• Harbor Freight small clamps $3 ea
  
  Other really good ideas:
  
  
• Gyokucho 10" $41
  
• Center Punch $7
  
• Awl $4
  
• Scraper Set $40