Reddit mentions: The best electrical cleaners

It looks beautiful, obviously stored in good conditions. I'm not sure how it works, but my bet is it will take very little to get it going. The tubes are likely OK because these amplifiers are used very few hours compared to commercial equipment. The main thing to check is the filter capacitors. The other capacitors and resistors are likely OK if it's been stored in an air conditioned area. Also, changes in values of these will not cause damage when the unit is powered up. It will likely be necessary to clean all the controls and switches, too.

Having restored a lot of older equipment, here's what I would do before turning it on:

1. With the unit out of the cabinet and disconnected from power, use an ohmmeter to be sure you don't have a short from the "hot" terminals of the four main electrolytic filter capacitors (the ones mounted on top of the chassis with the tubes) and chassis ground. With an analog ohmmeter, you should be able to reverse the test leads and see a "kick" when you first touch the terminal. Reverse again, kick again. This shows the capacitors are not "open". After a few seconds, the resistance should be above about 50K ohms. Also carefully inspect the unit for anything that may look burned or discolored. (If you don't have a high resistance or get the kick, you'll need to ohmmeter-test the capacitors individually. This means they will each have to be disconnected, and things get more complicated.)
   
   
2. Carefully remove the tubes and plug them back in, one at a time. Be sure they are always in the same socket they came out of! It's a good idea to remove and replace each tube several times to remove oxidation. The sockets for these tubes are self-wiping so this action tends to clean the tube pins and restore solid connections. It's not a bad idea to wash the tubes carefully with dishwashing liquid, rinse them fully and let them completely dry. You could also wash the removable tube shields while you're at it. This will remove dust and help keep the tubes cool and potentially remove leakage paths that can cause electrical noise.
   
   
3. If above seems OK, remove the rectifier tube (I think a 5U4 or 5R4--but it's the largest tube and the only one that starts with a 5). Be sure the fuse is OK (check with an ohmmeter), then plug it in and turn it on. You should see all the tube filaments and pilot light come on. This will confirm that the tubes and power transformer are likely OK. Be aware that from now on, there are LETHAL voltages in this amplifier! Treat it with respect! Don't touch anything inside when the power is on, and be wary that the filter capacitors can hold high voltages for a considerable length of time after the unit is turned off and unplugged.
   
   
4. From here on, the question is, "How brave are you?" Before you power it on, connect a speaker to each of the output terminals - 4, 8, or 16 ohms as applicable. If in doubt, connect the speakers to the 8-ohm terminals. This is important because tube amplifiers always need a load, and because you can hear any hum or noise that may be present.
   
   
5. If the previous tests passed, I'd be inclined to give it a full power-on check, but being ready to pull the plug quickly if needed. At this stage, the mostly likely thing to happen is a dramatic failure of a filter capacitor, usually in the form of some hissing noises and bad-smelling smoke. This will happen about 5 seconds after you plug in the power. If you pull the plug at the slightest hint of a problem, there won't be a lot of damage other than the capacitors that are already bad. If it's a really serious problem, the fuse on the back will probably blow at this point.
   
   
6. If you don't want to do the smoke test as described, you can try bringing up the voltage to the amplifier gradually using a variac, starting at about 30-40 volts, gradually bringing it up to a normal 120 volts if there is no smoke or noise. This makes the smoke test slower and more controllable. A cheaper test is to wire a 60-watt light bulb in series with the AC power cord. When you switch on the power, the lamp should come up to near full brightness in a few of seconds, then get dimmer, then after about 15-30 seconds come up to to maybe half brightness. If that seems OK, set the input to PHONO and turn the volume all the way up. You should be able to hear at least some noise in the speakers. A quiet hiss is good, a low hum is ok. A loud hum is not OK. If you get a 120 Hz. hum, that's caused by bad filter capacitors and you'll need to replace them. If it's a 60-Hz hum, it may be something else and may go away with a proper input connected.
   
   
7. If it passes the smoke test and doesn't blow the fuse, you're probably good to go with testing it with real audio sources. You should count on cleaning all the switches and controls with a good contact cleaner. It's also effective to pull outward on volume and tone controls as you rotate them from end to end a few times to clear away oxidation.
   
   
8. It may or may not be worthwhile to "recap" the amp (replace all the capacitors). While this may help performance, it's equally possible that a working all-original unit that has not been modified in any way will have higher resale value. In my experience, it's best to replace as few parts as possible. In high quality equipment like this, component failures are actually pretty rare and the resistors and capacitors used were surprisingly stable.
   
   I recently refurbished a 14-tube receiver from 1964 and all it required was a good cleaning. Absolutely no tubes or capacitors were bad.
   
   Good luck with the project!!
   

Hey! I've taken apart and fixed more joycons than I can count at this point.

Under the buttons are a rubber contact pad, followed by the contacts themselves. There are three potential issues I can think of right off the bat.

1. The contact for the A button is damaged or scratched. This is worse case scenario and not very likely unless you got sand into your joycon somehow.
   
   
2. Dirt and gunk on the inside has gotten under the contact pad. This is the most likely possibility in my opinion.
   
   
3. Nintendo put your joycon back together wrong, and the contact pad has shifted position over time. Not super likely but definitely a possibility, if you don't like the contact pad up correctly it could interfere with the function of the controller.
   
   Regardless of the issue, you're gonna need to open it up and clean it. The toolkit I use it the iFixit Mako toolkit. It'll have all the bits and tools you need save for some needlenose tweezers, and while some other brands like Wera will have higher quality bits, the iFixit kit is more than enough for your needs, especially if this is the only thing you plan on repairing.
   
   Opening up a joycon can be quite challenging, and to get to the buttons requires taking the entire thing apart due to how everything is sandwiched together. As daunting as it may be, it IS possible as long as you have the right tools, a little confidence, and a lot of patience. JerryRigEverything has an excellent tutorial on how to take apart the Switch, but you only need to worry about the section regarding the right joycon.
   
   While you're buying everything you need (the toolkit, some tweezers [preferably angled], your favorite brand of ice cream to celebrate after), I also recommend getting [a can of Hosa contact cleaner.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU) This stuff is like magic. Spray a tiny bit on the contact for the A button and let it dry, and it'll probably work good as new! Although you don't NEED to get this, it can help with old or damaged electronics, and if you plan on fixing any other controllers I definitely recommend it.
   
   Now, if you're buying literally everything I recommend then it's gonna come out to >$40 most likely, which is about the price for a single joycon. You can save some money by forgoing the contact cleaner and just buying the triwing and phillips head bits online yourself, but these are all tools that will help you in the future. Think of it as an investment. If you ever have a joycon acting up again, you'll be able to fix it yourself and not have to worry about a warranty. Plus, you can fix your friends' controllers like I have many times! Then again, I'm weird. I enjoy modding joycons. I'm still proud of my most recent mod I made as a birthday gift.
   
   Whatever you decide, best of luck! I'd love to hear how the repair goes if you decide to go through with it!

The problem could be one of two fairly easy to fix issues. It may be dirty adjustment knobs/switches or the belt may be worn out. The solution is to clean the knobs/switches and/or replace the belt.

To clean the knobs/switches you will need a quality electronics cleaner such as Caigs DeOxit or CRC QD Electronics cleaner. I find Caigs to work better, but CRC products are good as well. After cleaning, you should lube the connection with Caigs Deoxit Fader Lube or CRC Lubricant. Links for reference:

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-F5S-H6-CAIG-DeoxIT-Faderlube/dp/B00006LVF1

http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-QD-11-oz-Contact-Cleaner-02130-6/202262505

http://www.homedepot.com/p/CRC-2-26-5-oz-Multi-Purpose-Lubricant-02004/100398344

The first step is to clean the pitch adjustment pots. I do not have a Technics SL-23, but the pitch adjustment knobs on many tables can be removed by pulling up on them. Once removed you should be able to see the actual mechanics of the pot. Spray a couple shots of cleaner into the pot and let it soak in for a few seconds. Then twist the pot through the full rotation, from far left to far right. Do this several dozen times. Repeat for the second pot. After you do that, spray a shot of lubricant into each one and work the pot several more dozen times. Let it sit for a couple of minutes and then plug it in and try it out. If it solves your speed problem then you've found your solution.

The adjustment lever may be an electrical switch or may be a mechanical level. If it's the former, it might just need to be cleaned as above. If it's the later, it may have grease that has solidified with time and needs to be cleaned off and relubed with white lithium grease. In order to do that you will probably need to open the turntable up from the bottom and disassemble the selector mechanism to clean it.

If cleaning the pots and/or lever doesn't solve your problem, then it may be the belt has worn out. Replacement belts can be ordered and are easy to replace.

If none of that solves your problem, then the issue is probably more serious. It could be the spindle and bearing need to be cleaned and relubed. It could be that some of the capacitors in the electrical section have gone out of spec and need to be replaced. It could be the belt pulley motor is dying.

What you will need to decide is how much energy and effort you want to put into this table. If you are handy and enjoy fixing things, this might be a fun project. If you don't find that kind of thing appealing, it may be best to return the table and try to find one in better condition, or something new.

See vinylengine.com for the user and service manuals:

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/technics/sl-23.shtml

Glad to assist. I'm a tremendous fan of the suspended Pioneers of that specific vintage, and have two PL-630s and a PL-600 in my turntable collection that I've restored as needed. I don't sign up for that kind of work without feeling some love for the design.

Once you're at a level of turntable that precludes obvious audible misbehaviors, like unsteady speed, noisy drives, or insufficient weight and deadness to combat vibration feedback, then probably 95% of the sound you get will be cartridge dependent. Switch your carts and the Pioneer will be the warmer one.

Failure of the tonearm to move and a whirring sound from the small motor = bad tonearm belt. Sometimes it'll just be sluggish or it'll squeal, but the fix is the same.

This is the cleaner you need. The one you linked was a cleaning solution, but this is a contact cleaner. (Less diluted.)
I fixed my stuck button by simply unplugging the deck and spraying in the tiny gaps around the button, and working it over and over until it freed up. I had to pry it up at first until the DeoxIT started doing its thing. In my experience it's a fix that'll last for many years. If that doesn't do it, there are people over at Audiokarma.com who've disassembled the buttons, and a strong search will take you to that topic. I can help you get there, because if there's anything restoring turntables has taught me, it's how to search the shit out of Audio Karma and Vinyl Engine for those who've been there before.

Any electronics repair shop with an old experienced guy is a good bet. It would take some calling around and perhaps a half-day drive. There aren't many turntable repair shops left, if any. If you're handy and can wield a soldering iron when the chips are down, I'll bet you can fix it. I did my first TT restoration with nothing but basic auto mechanic experience and I got through it. If you enjoy this sort of thing, you'll find working on the Pioneer rewarding due to the quality and cleverness of the design. It will quickly become apparent why it sold for twice the money of the Dual. The $400 it cost then is $1200 in today's money, and that was a mass production price. Aluminum plinth with no plastic in sight. Booyaaa.

If the platter and armboard move at all, your transit screws have been removed. The Japanese used short suspension travel, whereas the Brits and the Germans favored Baja trophy truck suspension. All that matters is that it is truly suspended during normal use, and not up against either the high or low limits. If it is, it can be adjusted.

You could always attempt to fix it yourself. Here's two methods to basically try the same thing; the thorough and proper method, and then quick and dirty (and easier) method. No promising this will definitely fix it, but it's what I would do first in your case.

If you're comfortable disassembling the phone (iFixit has great disassembly guides) you could always take the switch out and thoroughly clean it with something like this by basically spraying in in to the switch, switching it all the way up and down a number of times, and repeating that two-step a few more times. Give it a little blast of compressed air to help it dry (that stuff already dries fast but may as well help it out) and reinstall it once it's dry. If you dropped it in water there's likely some residue in the switch that's shorting it in one position.

Optional method if you really don't want to take it apart: take a few minutes and just slide the switch all the way up and down a whole lot. If there's residue it might scrape it clean. Both of these processes are assuming the contacts inside the switch aren't corroded, in which case it definitely would have to be replaced.

deoxit. all the knobs, sliders, switches, etc.

clean out the inside of the machine. use a paintbrush / toothbrush to get the dust that has settled close to the boards. be gentle, take your time.

while you're digging into those two things, hopefully you'll get a better look at the caps, or if anything is notably burnt. that hiss could be a few different things, but luckily there isn't too much complexity inside there.

that's a great unit, i wish you the best of luck.

> Hey thanks for answering!

No prob!

> I had no idea DC trains shouldn’t run on DCC, TIL!

Yah. The DCC signal more resembles AC than it does DC. Square wave, not sine wave, and the frequency weeble-wobbles all over the place to transmit the data. It's a bit of an oddball signal, really, because it's trying to pass data along and pass actual power along at the same time. There's also a rather surprising amount of current on tap, moreso than the typical DC pack will provide. My command station puts out ~1.3 amps but I can fit boosters to it that go up to 8 amps each.

> How should I clean the tracks?

Ask a thousand modellers, get a thousand responses. I've had excellent luck rescuing filthy tracks with a lint-free shop cloth and this stuff. I'll spray it onto the cloth, then wipe that along the railheads. Dose a snazzy job of gettin' the schmoo off and dries super quick so no slippery residue is left behind. You might also want to look into a bright boy, given how long your tracks have sat, because while the cleaner I use is great at getting dirt off the railheads it won't really touch actual corrosion. For that, an abrasive will be necessary.

> And what exactly are fish plates? It is mostly peco track.

Fishplates...rail joiners...fiddly little bastards that stab the fuck out of your fingers as you work on your track...they have many names, but they're all pretty cheap and it won't hurt to replace them. Make sure you grab a pair that have wires attached if you already have a pair like that, those'll need replacing too for the same reason.

Make sure you're not suffering from a combo-problem:

.

I clean switches by doing a combination of sandpaper and electronics spray cleaner. I found the WD-40 electronics cleaner spray to be hands-down better than CRC Quick Cleaner spray. But neither one would remove corrosion from inside the switch itself. The sandpaper (facing upwards) did remove both the green battery leakage crap and the brownish corrosion from inside the switch. I slid the sandpaper in and then sprayed the electronics contact spray on. Be careful not to leave any paper shards get loose from the sandpaper itself. Just move it straight back and forth without angling. Keeping it at a simple 90° angle from the face of the power switch itself will save it from tearing off at the edges.

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Check and clean the battery contacts in the battery compartment. Even after cleaning the switch a bunch, the on/off flickering continued. It was a crudded battery contact that was making it happen.

.

The GBA unit I was working on looked brand new on the outside. The inside had battery leakage on both sides of the battery compartment. Funny how the battery compartment itself was sparkling clean. There's not much you can do when buying electronic units online, especially when a previous owner somewhere in its lifespan wanted to move the unit down the line from themselves. But after many hours of steady work, the light is solid as a rock and doesn't flicker one iota when touching any part of the power switch.

.


edit: also want to mention that the unit I was talking about above did not have any power or lights at all when I first received it. It took a long time to get it to start flickering a small amount of red light. Then the green light started to flicker at times, too, when moving the switch back and forth rapidly. I had to repeatedly disassemble, clean, partially reassemble, put in batteries and flick the switch a bunch.... just to try and get a sign of life out of the thing. Up until yesterday morning, I would've sworn on a stack of H.P. Lovecraft novels that the motherboard was blown. But I had some time last night and decided to play around with different cleaning methods. So glad that I did.

Best move here is to use special electrical contacts oil.

I'm living in Europe, so I'm using a European brand (actually French...)

http://www.kfsolution.fr/kf/KFproductdetail.csp?division=&product=F%202%20SPECIAL%20CONTACTS&ilang=fr&plang=fr

You have different brands in USA, like this one :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00AF0OFVU/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&mv_size_name=0

Most of the time, it will cost you 15 USD / EUR (without transport).
You could find those special electrical contacts oils in a good electronic component shop, if you live a big city.
I have one bottle for now 8 years so you can use a bottle for many years !!
Believe me : it changed a lot of things for me :
N64 cartridge working again, unrecognised joypad on PSX... recognized, boring USB key.. working again, etc.
On your picture, your cartridge isn't clean !
Take a q tip, put some special oil on it and.... clean. do this with 2 Q tips for a good measure.

Spray some oil on your 62Pins Slot, inside the SNES , and you are good to go.
Except for the battery, cartridges can last practically forever....

Couple things to check that I can think of. Check all of your fuses. Disconnect the battery, then go ahead and just replace them all, they're probably all ancient anyway. Make sure to replace with correct amperage fuses. Check for corrosion on the contacts while you're at it. Clean with contact cleaner and wire brush/emery cloth.

The brake light switch on my '62 was a pressure switch mounted on the brake Master Cylinder, '61s are the same. It's ten bucks from rockauto and wouldn't hurt to replace it, since it's 56 years old.

But the main thing I would look at is the bulkhead connector that goes from the fuse block under the driverside of the dash through the firewall into the engine compartment. My car had some weird electrical gremlins that were intermittent and super annoying. That bulkhead connector is hiding under the Master Cylinder and is held in place with a single bolt. Disconnect the battery to be safe, disconnect that bulkhead connector and inspect the contacts. Mine were corroded bad enough to cause my issues. If yours are corroded, spend some time cleaning both ends of the connector with contact cleaner and a wire brush/emery cloth. When you bolt it back together and it still seems loose (like mine did), pull the bolt out and put a small washer or two on it to help keep the connector tight.

If none of this helps, you might have a bad ground somewhere which will be more a bitch to fix since you'll have to start chasing down grounds to make sure they're all still connected and not corroded. And as has already been mentioned, check and replace all the bulbs. Relatively cheap and probably should be replaced anyway.

All that being said, invest in a Shop Manual for your car. They are worth every penny! Those old books are like the Big Bible o' Buick and will show you how to diagnose, repair and replace almost every part of your car. I highly recommend that anyone with an old car find the one they need and buy it immediately, you'll be glad you did. It will also include highly detailed wiring diagrams ;)

Lastly, sign up on www.v8buick.com, the single best and most comprehensive Buick messageboard on the interwebs. It's always active, the folks are nice and helpful, tons of info and a large classified section. I highly recommend it.

The main worry with rubbing alcohol would be water content. I would not try to work 70% alcohol into the switch. Higher alcohol content is more likely to dry out perfectly in a tight space like that.

Electrical contact cleaner is nice because the pressurized bottle will be easier to spray into the switch than alcohol. You can try alcohol, but definitely be sure to use some compressed air and be confident that you have completely dried out everything before applying power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGNI/ is the electronics cleaner I personally like using.

Maybe it's just an exception what happened for me, but the electrical contact cleaner I used left a little bit of a sticky residue, so it's possible it did not dry properly after ending up on the pins.


https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI


I used the same contact cleaner consistently recommended here, and I can't say it evaporates completely as suggested. On the back it even says "Allow to dry thoroughly and vent before reactivating. Product may collect and pool in unseen areas."


I worked a few years in electronic retail and tech support, and have an IT certification, so I promise I've tried to do my research in troubleshooting my own issues. I've heard of the tape method, and read about replacing the plastic latches with metal latches at the top; but in my case, I do believe I needed more than anything to clean the pins. Any combination of these can only help.

Okay, it might still be fixable. Go get some "contact cleaner". This is the electronics stuff, not the stuff for your eyes. A local electronics store, or digikey in a pinch. Huh, amazon carries it, so there you go. This should do: http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

Clean the board with the contact cleaner and a toothbrush (you'll throw it out later; a cheap one works awesome, flat style, not the ridgy ones with rubber). You'll have to get in and scrub the board a little, making sure you get all the goop out, especially around the chips.

Use common sense. You're getting rid of gummy residue, it won't require scrubbing until the bristles fall out.

Believe it or not, static with this cleaning method is usually not a problem; the wetness of the cleaner keeps your board protected.

Let dry, put back together, hope for the best.

If all else fails, pick up another one at a pawn shop. (I found my PS2 on the side of the road. Gave it to a GF who's now my ex, womp womp.)

Source for cleaning instructions: I'm an electrical engineer.

I'm assuming you're trying to clean the PCB. That shiny coating is an electrical varnish; a sealant to protect the board, mainly the circuit traces. Any type of Isopropanol (Isopropyl Alcohol, Acetone, etc.) will strip that varnish. What you'll want to use is Contact Cleaner (here). It's as simple as spraying down the PCB lightly with the cleaner, and then taking a non-abrasive brush to work it around and remove the dirt/oil/dust. Once you're satisfied, wipe down the PCB with a clean microfiber cloth. Good luck!

My CSL Elite throttle also started getting jittery/spikey after a year of use. I got some some DeoxIT D5 and that completely fixed it. Also picked up some ‘reel butter’ for the gears, seems like a good safe lubricant for plastic and was pretty cheap.

A touch-less sensor would be ideal but the potentiometer should be better shrouded or sealed. It's fairly exposed but at least it's easy access to service.

With loadcell I prefer them over the t3pa pros as well

A few that have come up a couple times

Radio interference

Radio in amps is a common problem, especially if you're near a transmitter.
First thing you want to do is rule out pieces of gear that aren't contributing to the problem. If the instrument isn't shielded you can have issues there, try another bass if possible.

If the shielding on your instrument cable is breaking down this can cause problem, try another cable if you can.

If you are using any pedals start with none and add them in one at a time until you get the issue to reoccur. If the problem is a pedal, you can solder a treble bleed cap across the hot/ground connections on the output jack of that pedal, use something like a 5 or 10pf and it should only filter off the very very high frequencies (like radio frequency).
If the issue is before the amp you can try a ferrite bead on the end of the cable before the amp. I tried this once and it didn't work for me, but it's a common recommendation.

If it is definitely the amp there are a few things you can try. The small cap trick I mentioned above for the pedal can work if you do it across the terminals of the input jack on the amp. If the amp is a tube amp make sure that there is a tube shield on the first gain stage. Check to see if there are grid stopper resistors on the first gain stage, you can change the value of the resistors to lower the frequency cutoff.

If there is no grid stopper and you want to add one, you can calculate what resistor to use. R = 1/ (2 PI f C). C is the input capacitance of the tube in farads, f is the low pass cutoff frequency in Hz, PI is constant 3.14, R is in ohms. The input capacitance C = CGK + (CGA A) where A is the voltage gain of the stage, CGK is the grid-to-cathode capacitance and CGA is the grid-to-anode capacitance of the tube. The latter two values are found in the tube's data sheet. For a 12AX7 with a gain stage designed with A to be 60, C is about 103 pF. Let's say you want to cut off everything above 20 kHz. R = 1/(2 3.14 20000 103 10^-12), which is about 80 K ohms.

Some amps just have an issue with internal wiring layout, you can try to move wires around to limit noise, but it can be tricky and dangerous because you have to have the amp open and on.

Don't poke around inside an amp unless you know what you're doing. Some of these things will likely need to be done by a tech.



Rattles

The easiest thing to try is moving your setup to another room or another position in the room to rule out sympathetic vibrations. If you've ruled out room issues check all the mounting screws on the speaker/cabinet and your amp. Check to see if the vibration is frequency specific (does it happen at octaves of different notes) or if it only occurs at low frequencies. With a frequency specific vibration you issue is something resonating and once you can find the problematic component you can try to alleviate that issue. If the rattle is only caused by high levels of low frequency and not specific to a frequency then it could simply be a loose panel or bad seal around the speaker or jack plates. Check the speaker mounting seal, it should be tight against the baffle. If needed you can add some gasket tape to ensure a good seal.


Tubes

There is a fantastic primer on tubes available on the Talkbass Portaflex Wiki that covers all of this in far greater detail, but for some basic troubleshooting there are a few things that are worth mentioning.

With any tube amp, the tubes are the primary suspect for weird noises and other issues. They're more likely to have issues than other passive and mechanical components. It's always a good idea to keep a known good spare of each type of preamp tube in your amp available for troubleshooting purposes. Preamp tubes in general can last many years to decades in most amps, but a good place to start if you suspect that you have tube issues is replacing the first gain stage (V1) of the amplifier. From there try swapping tubes one at a time until you reach the power tubes. If this has not solved your problem there may be an issue with a mechanical component (pots, jacks, switches) or a failing passive component (caps, resistors, etc). If the amp blows a fuse, especially a high voltage (often labeled HT) fuse, the usual suspect is failing power tubes. Swapping the tubes can be a good first step, but fuses blow for a reason and the amp should be checked over by a tech. If a power tube fails suddenly it can damage the screen, plate, or cathode resistors and simply replacing the tube with a new tube would put that new tube at risk for similar failure. In general, if the amp has a tube power section and has started to sound bland or has issues with the power dropping off you should check and possibly replace the power tubes.

Scratchy/static noise

A simple starting point for any kind of static noise is to check for loose jacks or bad cables. Frequently this kind of noise is due to bad or dirty contacts. A product like Deoxit in combination with a small brush or swab is good for cleaning contacts and connections. You can go simple and spray some onto a jack and use a 1/4" plug to run across the contact surface a few times, but a more thorough cleaning is better. With scratchy pots you can spray deoxit/contact cleaner into the mechanism and move the pot a few (hundred) times to clean the contact surface. If this fails to address the issue you may need to replace the pot. If the amp has an effects loop or speaker output that is unused these contacts can get dirty from time to time and a cleaning may be beneficial.

You should ask santa for an ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight. The large one. Pull out your entire wireharness and soak each cluster of connectors in a mix of LA Awesome and distilled water. They'll come out brand new. Swing it like an old sling shot to the the water out, then immediately hit the metal contacts inside the plastic connectors with deoxit d100L that'll keep the metal shiny. And soak the next chunk of connectors. If you need to rewrap the harness don't use electrical tape. Use self fusing silicon tape from harbor freight. I think its called super tape and its $4 for 10 feet x 1 inch. But it stretches so its more like 20+ feet. Don't over stretch it tho.

I'd probably spray and scrub the battery case with brake cleaner and a brush, then spray it with brake cleaner again.

Broken plastic connectors can be bought for cheap at 4into1, link is on the right side. You remove the metal connectors by using a very small flat head jeweler screw driver. Make sure all your connectors lock in together. Most people hate electronic work on bikes. But if you do it right its fun and easy.

First, make sure you're using Ammonia/VOC free glass cleaner. It's much less likely to screw up your electronics, or your nice HDTV screen.

If it's just the contacts on the SD card reader, you can try cleaning it with alcohol like said. Better would be to purchase an Electronics Contact Cleaner and see if you can revive it that way.

I too had this issue, and completely fixed it with some electrical contact cleaner. Compressed air didn't work, I had to use this stuff. You lift up the rubber base of the sticks and spray this stuff in there on all the sides, wiggle around your sticks a bit to get it all around in there, let it dry for a an hour and then they'll be back to normal. I have to repeat this process every few months depending on how often depending on how much I'm using my switch, but it's super easy and takes very little time. I still have the same can of cleaner, and it seems like it has plenty left in it.

I wouldn't put that chemical on my tires or get it anywhere near my bike. It's practically lacquer thinner in a can and will eat up your paint and plastics if it splashes on them.

I use CRC QD electrical cleaner. It makes the oil drip right off of anything, is plastic safe, doesn't hurt painted parts of my engine or wheels, and it doesn't leave a residue. It's the best on my old bike when I'm trying to track down an oil leak. clean the whole engine with it, start the bike and see where the oil starts seaping from first. I pick it up on amazon when it drops below 4 or 5 bucks a can.

Dish soap is the best alternative though.

Mine did this exactly. [This is the contact cleaner I used] (https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535827404&sr=8-3&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner+crc) and many others have had success with it too. It's also in the automotive section of walmart for the same price.

There's a dust cover at the base of the joystick. Make sure the controller is off, tilt the stick and lift the doughnut cover with a credit card or toothpick. Then spray some of the cleaner in. Move the joystick around then repeat from the other side. Keep the cover lifted while the cleaner is drying.

The fact you had to jiggle it indicates a bad connection. The soldering looks fine from the photo but take a real good look with a magnifying glass and see if there are any hairline cracks. I'm picking it's oxidation of the contacts inside the switches. Get some CO Contact cleaner, get it inside the switches and give them a good workout while it dries. Make sure the power is off of course.

FYI the switches connect both left and right A speakers together and the left and rights B speakers together. I always thought they were parallel but a comment on your pics could be right. Anyway if you connect the left speakers in series and connect them to just the left A terminals you're doing exactly what the switch does. And same for the rights to the right B terminals.

I don't intend to contradict the above answer, because it is certainly a viable and good solution. I would go one step further and purchase electric contact cleaner.

This is what I use

This contains no water and will clean it up with no issue. It is more expensive, but I have been happy to have it on more than one occasion. Make sure you don't get any on the joysticks though, it leaves a white residue on soft plastic. The residue can easily be cleaned, but it is annoying.

Here's a list of basics that I bought recently to give you an idea:

Feeler Gauges

Hex Key Wrench Set

String Action Gauge

String Winder

Contact Cleaner for Electronics

Neck Rest

I already have various sized screw drivers, but if I didn't that would be on the list as well.

The above would be enough to do a basic setup: adjust truss rod, adjust action, get into the guts and clean the electronics. Everything will fit in a beat up old shoe box haha.

Along with YouTube videos, this book is a good reference guide. It has everything from basic repair and maintenance information all the way to repairing a broken neck or trying to repair a messed up truss rod.

It would require complete disassembly of the psu and a cleaning of every component.

The best cleaner is something like quick drying CRC contact/electronic cleaner. I've used this many time, and it works really well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGNI/

First thing is the "registers values when it is not even being engaged." issue. You need to get some Caig Deoxit to clean the potentiometers. That will resolve that issue. I'm not sure you'll be happy with not hard mounting the pedals if you have a really heavy brake pedal; I know I wouldn't be.

Well, if you can use the lab and it has a scope in it then you just scored big time.

As far as $100. I would get:

(amazon links for convenience, use any supplier you wish)

• DMM (digital multimeter) - must have diode check, DC volts, AC volts, Ohms, and continuity. Extech EX330 ($50) or Equus 3320 ($20)
  
  
• clip leads for the meter such as these - these are important because you will need to take values while the amp is on, and you don't want to be poking around a live amp
  
  
• variable power/temp soldering iron - cheap one good one better one
  
  
• 60/40 leaded solder - I like this kind
  
  
• desolder braid
  
  
• rosin flux
  
  
• contact cleaner
  
  
• (de-oxit d-5)[http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/]
  
  
• flush cutters
  
  
• solder sucker
  
  
• shrink tube of various diameters
  
  
• 92%+ isopropyl alcohol
  
  
• windex
  
  
• q-tips
  
  
• paper towels
  
  
• needle nose pliers
  
  
• nice set of phillips head screwdrivers
  
  
• standard screwdriver
  
  
• miner's headlamp
  
  
• digital camera for taking many many pictures before and during disassembly
  
  
• printer for printing service manuals
  
  
• heat gunor hair dryer
  
  
• canned air
  
  
  EDIT: Light bulb socket, 100W + 60W real light bulbs (not the hippy engery saving kind), electrical outlet - these are for making a dim bulb tester.
  
  All I can think of right now.

I've went through 3, but that was before I was able to fix the middle button. I highly recommend getting some electrical contact cleaner (I used this), spray a little bit in each side, roll/click it a couple times, wait for a half an hour. Mine's been working flawless since.

Unless you've been having other issues...

If anything, remove the CMOS Battery and the housing for the GPU and you can wash the boards with water. Immediately pat it dry and place in a 200*F 90*C degree oven or an oven set on Warm (WM) to help it dry quickly. (the GPU PCB and the Motherboard can be there and be safe.) Any higher and you're going to risk melting connectors. To be extra safe, wrap in some paper towels and set on the racks after the oven gets to temp. Turn off the oven and then let them sit there for about an hour or two.

From there you can use a corrosion removal spray or solution to try and undo any damage.

CRC contact cleaner - Plastic Safe.

Deoxit contact cleaner and corrosion removal.

Pen style Deoxit.

If not, you can no confidently say that you need to spend the money on the now more expensive GPU and Motherboard. Clean the contacts of the ram as well as the power supply connectors with rubbing alcohol just incase.



Edit: Reddit had a stroke when I used autocorrect and doubled a bunch of shit.

Have you tried buying contact cleaner spraying your button with it? (mechanical contact cleaner, not eye contacts!)

Alternative, 99% isopropyl alcohol. A high percentage (not 70% meant for sterilization)

Well this info is for whoever you gift the phone too.

With the new Razer announcement, I would get that over the Pixel. (for me, much better front loudspeakers are more important than a step up in camera quality)

You'll want contact cleaner. Deoxit is great for cleaning potentiometers, as well as other electronic connections. Look at the picture of the pot that seb_m posted; see that little notch on the bottom, right-hand of the picture? That's where you'll want to spray the contact cleaner. Then you just turn the pot back and forth a few times to work it around.

better use a contact cleaner instead of lighter fluid. Costs about the same. Deoxit is a cleaner you can spray into the pot, twist the pot repeatedly, and then (optional) blow out with canned air. Works like a charm, it's made specifically for this purpose.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/tags-on-product/B00006LVEU

Like this?

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_G5QRDbE4F92RA

First ive heard of this but looks like it has other uses.

Thanks for the tip!

I cleaned my pc with compressed air, but it doesnt look like everything went away, I still got this [Contact cleaner]( https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=contact+cleaner&qid=1558717635&s=music&sr=1-1-catcorr) from WD-40 which has more power and is kind of a "liquid that evaporate" you probably know what I mean. Is it safe to use this on the top side of my GPU to clean it?

I used WD-40 Electrical Contact Cleaner spray you can get it at homedepot for like $5. Make sure NOT to use regular WD-40. A quick 1 second spray under the flap of the analog and it will be as good as new. Heres a link to the right one if you want to get it from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_328_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1HRH2926M4M7210XZ89H

Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qEgJAbVJNNSB0

You can get these at pretty much any hardware or autoparts store. They aren't for recharging a dead battery but they will keep it topped up during the off season. I would also recommend getting some terminal protective spray to help limit terminal corrosion.

CRC 05046 Technician Grade Battery Terminal Protector - 7.5 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIPUNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bKgJAb9PBFC9P

I had the same issue with one of the linear bearings for my Folger 2020 too. Just like you I had put some oil and grease to try to help it, but it didn't work. I started over and wash it all out with some electric parts cleaner spray and blew it dry with light compressed air (get the QD for plastic safe) and that improved it.

Also try orientating it so the lines of bearing balls sit at 45 degree angles on the smooth rod like in the left example of the first attached picture in this post. I did this for my x and y axis. For z I just lined up both bearings. it really helped.

This isn't horrible. $25 gift card, but more importantly, it should be the version2 switch with better battery life - https://slickdeals.net/f/13642192-nintendo-switch-v2-25-amazon-promo-credit-298-99?src=frontpage

if you buy it and actually use it enough you'll probably want this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then follow this.
https://nintygamer.com/switch-controller-drift-fix/

This problem sounds like you may have some dirty or oxidized contacts on your hdmi ports and/or plugs, which can definitely cause the symptoms you're seeing.

Whenever you remove a plug and plug it in again the friction of that action does a little cleaning, which would explain the temporary improvement you see when you do that.

Removing the plug and plugging it in (say 20 times in a row) may make your problem disappear for a much longer time. However, that action, preceded by spraying "contact cleaner spray" into both the hdmi ports and the hdmi plugs, will provide the best solution. (Assuming that dirty/oxidized contacts are the source of your problem.)

I do think that's like to be the answer. I had similar problems years ago, and the solution I described has kept me problem free ever since, without needing to repeat the process.

amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415131866&sr=8-1&keywords=contact+cleaner+spray

Don’t spray canned air into it. Make sure it’s contact cleaner for electronics. This is the one I used and it has fixed 2 of my joycons: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=wd40+electrical+contact+cleaner&qid=1557692939&s=gateway&sprefix=wd40+&sr=8-2

The rubber flap can be propped up with a little object like a toothpick or safety pin (just be careful), and spray the contact cleaner into it, rotate the stick a few times, and let it dry.

Get some of this stuff and spray it under the stick and roll it around. Works great for joycon drift so should work for that too.
WD40 Company 300554 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray - 11 oz. with Smart Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tHYvDbCMH13V7

The SRC is based on the TM style V3 G36, evike even carries the SRC replacement for it. The custom M4s yeah, you might have to just swap the metal parts of the trigger assembles.

I would try cleaning the switches first like Rapturehitler said. If you can get a can of CRC plastic safe or DeOxit it is very effective when cleaning contacts.

Not sure about not spending anything but I’ve read some people with other controllers, when they have problems with analog sticks, swear by this spray, it’s like WD-40 electrical contact cleaner and they say it works wonders. Maybe vita stick is different and doesn’t get fixed as well, I don’t really know. But it’s worth a try for 6-7$ I guess.

WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray - Electronic & Electrical Equipment Cleaner. 11 oz. (Pack of 1) - 300554-E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_B5PCCb7P9Y03Y

If you can, buy a contact cleaner spray with a nozzle like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY) and spray it under the rubber cap under the stick, then press down the stick and move it in all directions for a bit, it should fix it.

Also, try to keep your switch in a closed off place or in a case when not in use, because the 'drifting' came back slightly for me after a few days and I had to spray it again because I'm guessing contact with air or dust is the reason this is happening. I'm sure that this is only a problem with some joy sticks, as my right joystick is in pristine preciseness even after all this time.

If he's electronically inclined I suggest checking out this link

http://rellinger.blogspot.com/2012/12/replacing-middle-button-on-logitech.html

If not willing to solder and replace the switch, get one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420242985&sr=8-1&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner

And spray liberally so that it can seep in and do the job and hope for the best.

I was able to solve this by removing the tubes and using DeoxIT on the pins. Careful not to get any on the glass; it will remove the ink markings. Some fine sandpaper on the pins might help, as well.

Since it's an all in one deal, does the tinnyneas only happen when playing vinyl? Or is it there with the tape deck and am/fm tuner? If so, your eq might be hosed. Sometimes a good squirt of deoxit will help.

If it's only the table, then probably the needle needs to be replaced. It's actually a fairly simple fix.

You can find parts here.

It might be contact cleaner. I got this one from amazon to use on my camera's jog wheel since it was unresponsive at random times. If there's a Fry's or Micro Center nearby, I'm pretty sure they carry some in store

Electronic Parts Cleaner spray and hope: http://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI

Next time apply MAX a grain of rice sized amount on the CPU and then spread across the top with something flat. The goal isn't to drown the CPU, it's just to fill in any small spaces between the CPU and heatsink to improve thermal conduction and avoid hot spots.

I've used WD40 with plenty of success on old locks. With antiques, it is often less about the lube and more about cleaning out all the old gunk.

I would recommend getting over your kitchen sink and giving it a healthy spray, don't worry about using too much. If you have a rake, you can roughly rake in and out to get all the spray worked into the pin stacks. You should also mess with you tension wrench to work the plug a little bit. I would expect to see some dirty discharge from the lock when you do this. If you really want, you can repeat the process a couple of times until there is no more rust/dirt/oxidation coming out.

Recently I've been using DeoxIT D5, and it is quite effective. It is available on Amazon.

It sounds like juice or some other form of grime has gotten behind your firing button.

You may be able to clean it out of there with rubbing alcohol or quick dry aerosol electronics cleaner.

Make sure you remove your batteries and leave them out until its dry, then spray some cleaner behind the button and work it around. I personally would go with the aerosol, as isopropyl alcohol will dissolve some plastics.

Amazon has it, your local hardware store might, too. There are many brands, but I think this is the most popular one:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_lfmjDb174YANM --- what I use. Lasted me a year now and pretty good use. Still feels full.

It's your lucky day!

I happen to have that set and it's easy to fix. While it's possible that you're having a different problem, a very common problem with old computer speakers (and Klipsches in particular) is a problem with the volume knob itself.

There's a very good chance that all you need to do is pull off the volume knob and spray some of this into it. https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

Google for more so you don't think I'm crazy :)
https://www.google.com/search?q=dirty+potentiometer+contact+cleaner&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8

Isopropyl helps, I'd get some of this stuff too. It's great for exactly what you need.

This worked on mine, but only for a short period of time. I fixed it permanently with DeoxIT. Just take off the back cover (you'll need a tri-wing screwdriver) and spray this stuff into the buttons a few times (work the button a bunch between sprays). I did this a couple weeks ago and they've been working great since.

Usually a silicone dielectric grease, but I like the spray stuff like this: http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC better.

CRC 5103 Quick Dry Electronic Cleaner - 11 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JjJ0xbP4E4THK

I use that stuff but anything you find that's safe on plastic is also fine.

I wouldn't call it a fix as such, but have you tried spraying some electrical contact cleaner eg. into the pots and faders?

I've got a beat up A&H Xone:32 and an occasional spray has kept it ticking along nicely.

> spraying canned air

Air doesn't remove corrosion. You could try a contact cleaner spray like everybody's favorite, CAIG DeoxIT D5.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1408995039&sr=1-1&keywords=contact+cleaner+electronics

Something like that would be good for cleaning contacts on things like potentiometers (non-digital volume sliders / knobs) and the inside of connections or plugs or any other metal to metal contacts that carries signal or power.

Using water is a bad idea on any kind of internal parts, but should be OK if used on the outside of equipment, with NOT TOO MUCH water and quick drying afterwards.

Get Electrical Contact Cleaner. It's meant for this and plastic safe.


Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B1NEN2YVCYPJ0RPVXTDP

Good news is that you can buy replacement keycaps if you have Cherry switches. Just Google it.

Oh wait, you can't. Hahahahaha. ;-)

But seriously, use this stuff. It's plastic-safe and also a great degreaser: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524142059&sr=8-3&keywords=electro+contact+cleaner

Contact cleaner, $4.77 @ Amazon, but you can buy at probably any store like Lowe's.

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m1G9Bb2YS6DMT

And the place on the pot to spray it (about halfway down on the page)

http://www.mtdkingston.com/thezone/repair_and_maintenance.html

Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H26SCbP1TAWD1 I love you too.

Source: electronics technician

I didnt read your specific problem but I know for a FACT Deoxit is the gold standard for cleaning electric components. I have used it on electric guitars and vintage stereo receivers with great results.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398794582&sr=8-1&keywords=deoxit

Deoxit D5 is the best contact cleaner for dirty pots. I tried substitutes (radio shack...) and they just don't cut the mustard. I haven't cleaned a twin, but on other amps and guitars I've gotten it to work without taking the chassis out. Turn the amp off, spray a good amount between the knob and the amp. Turn the knob back and forth a few times and leave it to dry for a minute or two. Power it on and see if it worked.

I would use a spray electronic cleaner like this or this.

I have found the WD-40 brand stuff at local hardware stores like Home Depot or Lowe's and it works great. Have cleaned off old motherboards and a GPU that had sticky soda all over the back of it.

Otherwise, as others have suggest, alcohol with wipes or q-tips. I just think the can and spraying the fuck out of it is the best first step to get the majority of it cleans and then using qtips for detail work if you find residue.

Also, as other have suggested, take all the components apart and clean them all separately, making sure the contacts and sockets are as clean as you can get.


How does somebody sit on a computer and piss in it? I've been blackout drunk before, but I can never understand how people can't find a toilet or bathtub/shower to piss in. Otherwise, wouldn't you just piss your clothes wherever you happen to pass out?

I picked up mine from a RC hobby store, and it's branded for RC stuff:

T. A. Emerald Performance Plus 4, TAE4200 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMQGE24

I don't really have a preference for this brand. I'd just get something like this, since they are all pretty similar:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI

The one I've seen mentioned the most is CRC.

You're going to have to go to r/NintendoSwitch or YouTube if you want more info because I haven't used it, but I did get a free official fix which I'll write about in this thread.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418

Mine started drifting a bit a few weeks ago and I bought some electronics cleaning spray off amazon that someone recommended. Sprayed into the stick housing, waited for it to dry, problem solved :)

CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ymPPCb1SAVTVQ

Electric contact cleaner took care of my joycon drifting. Only 5 bucks on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

WD-40 has an electrical contact cleaner that could clean everything nicely.

There was a post about this a couple of weeks back. People recommended this cleaner because it is safe for the plastic. Also if you look at the joycon carefully you will see a little plastic flap that can be lifted, you need to lift that flap and spray the cleaner under it. So far since using the spray linked above I haven't had an issue, however I really haven't been playing my switch enough since to properly test (sekiro is taking all my time).

Take the battery out. Get a toothbrush. Some of this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_2?crid=T9K663XMBYF5&dchild=1&keywords=crc+electronic+cleaner&qid=1575079801&sprefix=crc+ele%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-2

Scrub off the board and rinse with highest concentration of alcohol you can get. I use 91%. Repeat until it looks good. Replace the battery, because I'm sure that one is a gonner.

You could try this:

​

get control contact cleaner (not eyeglass contact cleaner- this stuff is meant for electronics) like this

​

(do this stuff with the car off)

​

remove the volume knob.

​

spray contact cleaner where the twist part of the volume control meets the rest of the car

​

spin the volume knob a lot

​

replace knob

​

repeat as necessary. Try to keep the contact cleaner out of your cd player. Also, I would wear plastic gloves. edit: maybe even shield the area with a rag- the contact cleaner almost always splashes back, this stuff sprays way harder than it needs to. I've got it in my eye more than once, even with glasses on.

I believe this is the stuff I used.

Looking on Amazon apparently they do make a special WD40 for electronics similarly priced as well.

Use this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OcuIDbVK9CH95

I’ve had two drifting joycons and using this sprayer under the rubber cap and waiting for 5 minutes worked both times. Much easier than dealing with Nintendo support each time.

6 bucks for a can of electronic cleaner give it a try if you dont want to pull your joy cons apart https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sounds like you just need to Deoxit the volume pots in the KA-400 to get rid of the scratchy sound. I did the same thing in two of my vintage Harman Kardon receivers, and to pitch controls in two of my turntables. Deoxit is like audio magic, I kid you not!

to get to the camera you need to remove the lining on the inside of the trunk (the tailgate, movable piece). You have to remove both tail lights attached to the movable piece of trunk (3 11mm bolts each), then remove the long piece of body that stretches between the tail lights under the ford logo. This is held in by 4 10mm bolts that can be seen through the little openings in the metal (you'll know what I am talking about once you get this far). Then you can pull on the long piece of bodywork that the camera and trunk release button are attached to. Then you should have access to the camera. If its working about 30% of the time, it could be a loose or dirty connector. I'd pick up some electronics cleaner (such as this) at walmart and spray the connections and see if that helps. Good luck!

> flush the button component on the circuit board with 99.9% pure electronics grade isopropyl alcohol

This stuff is the bomb!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For people who have problems with their JoyCons drifting, I highly recommend trying this. This is not a permanent fix by any stretch of the imagination; however, after attempting numerous different fixes this has easily shown the best and longest lasting fix for JoyCon drift.

Did you save the old switches? A spray of some electronic cleaner (deoxit) and cycling then several times might bring the switches back.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469990583&sr=8-1&keywords=Deoxit

Are you sure it's a coil split and not series/parallel or OOP?

Because those require the middle position.

For the other thing, your pots need cleaning. Some DeOxit will clear that up.

Can of WD 40 electrical contact cleaner, about 8 bucks on Amazon. Fixed my drift on my original pair and I have a warrantied pair from Gamestop I've stuck on the unit. I enjoy the system a lot.

I don't like using Brasso unless it's my last option. It definitely can leave a residue.

Pop open the cart and clean the contacts with fast evaporating contact cleaner. Set the PCB on a spongy mousepad and use a high polymer white eraser to loosen up the gunk.

There are tiny slots in the EQ sliders where you would spray the contact cleaner order Deoxit D5 on Amazon. Use the link below to learn how to use it to clean the volume control.

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/

>I trust these guys a lot

And here you are.

-Lower ball joints seeping grease: They can do that for a while. Your shop doesn't seem to want to replace them though, so.

-Leaking pan gasket: You can afford to have a lot of oil leaking for $350. Are you leaking enough to have to add oil because of the leak between oil changes? No? Then unless you are a Rockefeller (or are damaging the surfaces you park it on) I'd leave it alone.


-Struts and mounts--Because they are 'weak' and the boots are torn. Don't care about the 'torn', but weak? Maybe. Does it drive and handle ok? Are your tires wearing funny?

-Alignment: Yeah, if you do the struts, you might want to align it.

-Battery service: For $50, you can probably disconnect the battery, clean the terminals yourself. Oh, don't forget the corrosion protectors

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl this is the perfect fix for drift more people need to know about it

Spray tuner cleaner into the potentiometers

https://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2053-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B0030MKAV4/

edit: Extremely common and has been for many years. But cleaning the pots will have them good as new in almost all cases.

Next time use contact cleaner; not wd40. I use this. Good stuff.

DEOXIT is an amazing electronic contact cleaner. I use it all the time and it's like magic.

It's a little spendy, but one can will last you a long time (years of cleaning).

Amazon link

You can also get it at Guitar Center if you have one of those near by.

deoxit is even better for dirty scratchy pots. Also works on battery connectors and anything metal. It's not something you use every day. Depends on the humidity and salt where you live (ocean), how much you gig, if outdoors or not. Lots of fog/snow/bubble machines Etc. Also it depends on the type of metal in your connectors and jacks. If they are dissimilar it increases corrosion (science man!). In the studio it's a once every six months chore if the head tech is cool. Once a month if he's an asshole.

Surprised this doesn't get talked about more on here. Someone who has some oxidization on their pedal/guitar/amp jacks and a decent pair of ears can hear the difference after using a burnishing tool and some Deoxit. if you have oxidized jacks this will improve your tone whereas buying a $50 cable will do absolutely nothing.

I spilled soda on my numpad a few months ago my 0 key was completely gunked up. I used some of this on it and after two or three applications it was back to functioning order. Note my board has MX Browns on it. It would be worth the try though because that stuff has hundreds of uses around the house (much like WD-40).

WD40 Company 300554 Specialist Contact Cleaner Spray - 11 oz. with Smart Straw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FTnJDbM1B9S8V

Seconding this. Electronic contact cleaner is the only thing that has fixed my drift issues on my left joycon, after trying compressed air and a toothbrush to no success. Thankfully it’s pretty cheap (around $5). The drifting occasionally returns every few months on my joycon, but every time it does, I just apply some cleaner, and the problem is resolved.

This stuff? http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421870112&sr=8-1&keywords=deoxit&pebp=1421870115536&peasin=B00006LVEU


Never heard of it, looks interesting. How/where exactly do I use it?

I used CRC QD (quick-dry):

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

Seems kind of overpriced on Amazon. I got it from an Ebay store for about $6. It should also be at places like Walmart and Home Depot.

Spray this stuff on it and enjoy. Its /r/oddlysatisfying for me.

My friend and I had drifting issues on our joy-cons, and I fixed them both by spraying electrical contact cleaner into the bottom of the stick (under the rubber flap).

For the joycon's drifting, I found a little spray from WD-40 specifically their ELECTRICAL CONTACT CLEANER (not their other stuff which would melt plastic), really helped eliminate the drift. This is what i used, its $6.75 on amazon right now, which is much cheaper than $70 for new joycons

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was able to read the signs for the streets on the corners around my neighborhood at night for the first time. The beam pattern kicks up to the right, and so do HID projectors, which is done so signs like that can be read. I used to bring a custom made 5000 lumen flashlight with me to shine at signs like that, but I won't need to do that anymore. That's all I can tell you so far. I literally only have about five miles with them so far, and no highway driving yet. Deer are a big concern for me too, so I'll be paying close attention to that when I drive outside of town at night.

Yes, glass lens.

Some people have had issues with the relays that come with the Putco harness, so I ordered a couple spares. Here's the products I ordered. All from Amazon, all with Prime shipping. Unfortunately some of the packages arrived in three days instead of two, but that should still give you plenty of time for your trip.

Hella 55/100W bulbs
IPF H4 housings
Pilot relays
Putco harness

This video can help tell you where to run the harness. Btw, the video says it, but there's a spare plug that goes into the old harness bulb socket. All it does is get the signal to flip on the low or high beams.

One extra thing I did was spray all the contacts with Deoxit to get a cleaner connection and prevent corrosion.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-Cable-Deoxit-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

you're welcome

Don’t use isopropyl to clean electrical connections (cartridges, etc). Get a can of CAIG DEOXIT D-5 - it’s a little expensive but it is pure gold when it comes to electronics repair. Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i4FXDbVRZDT0S

Was it plugged into the wall? Even when "off" there is usually power still going through the motherboard...

i would remove every component from the case and completely dissemble it. Then I would go to an auto parts store and buy some CRC Electronic cleaner and spray everything down good. Don't focus on one area for too long as it will get cold FAST with this stuff. Then reassemble and give it a try.

If compressed air and a toothbrush don't work, you can hit it with a plastic safe solvent.

For starters, don't put it in soapy water. Water and electronics don't mix well, and you may end up with an even less functional device.

What you could try is is a contact cleaner like this one by WD-40.

Something like this?

The potentiometer sounds dirty. With the unit off, turn the knob back and forth quickly like 10 times. Also you can try a cleaner like this. http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Electrical-Liquid-Cleaner-Aerosol/dp/B000P1HKFW/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41FxRuH94WL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR107%2C160_&refRID=1PG9HT6R2ZEX5926CDQR

I can weigh in. My girlfriend and I have almost exactly the same home-built PCs. Mine is below my desk, and hers is on her desk. We both vape at our desks.

One day her computer stopped reacting at all when the power button was pressed, just like if it was unplugged. I busted out my power supply tester and multimeter and it tested fine. After quite a bit of troubleshooting I discovered that the area of the board with the north bridge and power control circuit, along with the bottoms of the RAM slots, and the entire back of the GPU, were coated in VG.

I should mention, I suppose, that we both almost exclusively vape my DIY ("Creamy Nuts") which is 3mg max VG with a little TFA bavarian cream and TFA hazelnut praline, no sweetener.

I pulled the mobo and GPU out of the computer, ran to the local auto parts store, and bought a can of CRC electronics cleaner which I used in conjunction with an air compressor and Q-tips to blow/scrape most of the VG residue off the boards.

The machine is working fine now but the whole cleaning process took several hours. When I got to trying to figure out exactly how it happened, I realized that she does have a higher-than-normal-flow 120MM intake fan in the lower front of the case, and everything that had residue on it was in direct line with this fan. This build up happened over the course of about 9 months.

PLEASE be aware of where you are exhaling, when you're around electronics! After this incident I checked my desktop and my server and they are both fine. This happened just because of a crappy combination of factors, but it can absolutely happen to anybody.

Clean the switch with Deoxit.

Battery terminal protector instead. I've had the same can for about 8 years. It has lasted many a car.
Clean the terminals and clamps with a wire brush, spray a coat of the protector on everything and add some fiber washers. I've never had terminal corrosion issues.

Get this and spray it under the caps of your joysticks, they will work like they're brand new again.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AF0OFVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this stuff works well: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY , just be slow and careful with the cleaning

I actually got some stuff from Amazon that’s supposed to clean it. I also just got a power supply that will be here tomorrow

I usually spray whatever I have handy, most often CRC eletronics cleaner or WD40 brand silicon spray which is awesome because its got built in nozzle that doesn't fall off...

https://amzn.com/B000BXOGNI

https://amzn.com/B00631GSSI

Anyways I spray something just to get hardened dirt a bit moist, or in general any liquid will help cut down on friction ... spray motor, then point datavac into motor best I can, not using any attachments or anything and then start rotating motor back and forth. I try not to force, like I'll just start turning other direction if it gets stuck a little... just back and forth is the goal.

Combination of lube + airflow + rotation to sorta nudge stuff / change direction of airflow on a piece of dirt, usually after like 30s motor is pretty dirt free. If after 30s it still can feel dirt, like my lazy side will make me just to force rotation more... might scratch up stuff but will also break up whatever little rocks or whatever stuff is stuck in there. Just try to avoid it as much as possible but in the end motor is like $20... not worth babying it.

Buy a can of deoxit and clean around the analog sticks really well allowing some to leak into the gaps, then use as normal and the drift goes away almost immediately.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Technician-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC

I use a similar product after cleaning a customers battery up with some baking soda and water, works great but this guy used way too much.

Pioneer Andrew Jones SP-BS22 for $140 and a craigslist or thriftstore integrated amp or reciever with the other $60.

Cheapest deals will be 70's Japanese stuff. Kenwood, Pioneer, Teac, and a lot of others I can't think of off the top of my head.

Then go to Amazon and get some Deoxit to spray on the knobs and switches every couple of years. This will knock off any corrosion on the controls to keep you from getting scratchy knobs or loosing channels.

Sheesh, actually I just checked and it is like $15 a can now, price must've gone way up. I bought mine like 5+ years ago and it's still got plenty left but I have used it on lots of stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006LVEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459267926&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=deoxit&dpPl=1&dpID=41esA2w9C%2BL&ref=plSrch

This should fix that issue in most knobs:

http://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

You have to take the plastic covering off and spray it inside the knob thing on the circuit board. Should look like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/512sGRdBjgL.jpg. If it's covered there is usually a hole for spraying into.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU

Probably available at your local hardware store.

humm, try to use something like this https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501009941&sr=8-5&keywords=contact+cleaner

and use a old toothpaste to brush it..

I used contact cleaner on my ps3 controllers when they ever have buttons that stick, don't work properly, or have that issue where pressing one button somehow presses other buttons. It works everytime. Link to the contact cleaner I use

Take out the joystick circuit board (just remove the restrictor plate, disconnect the 5-pin cable, and the board should slide right out), pry open the microswitches, and spray some contact cleaner on the metal parts inside. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030MKAV4

This stuff worked for me. Just spray it in there and let it dry

WD-40 Specialist Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray - Electronic & Electrical Equipment Cleaner. 11 oz. (Pack of 1) - 300554-E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OBGPCbF0J6K7T

This stuff works very well. I think Radio Shack sells it.

Have you tried using Electronic Contact Cleaner (somthing like this)? It's like some sort of magic drift fixing fluid. Just use the nozzle that comes with it, put it underneath the thin rubber sheet between the stick and the inside of the joycon and spray. Once I did this and after it dried the single worst case of joystick drift I've ever seen in my life was fixed.

The solution which seems to have worked for most people (including me) is to use just a little bit of this quick dry electronic cleaner under the stick's plastic sheath. As the instructions were given to me, lift up the sheath enough to spray in a bit using the included straw attachment, then circle the stick around a bit. Do the same on the opposite side, to make sure it's getting everywhere. Give it just a little time to dry before using the controller. Since it's hard to spray out just a tiny amount you might get some outside of the stick, but it's harmless and also will give you an indication of how fast it dries.

​

EDIT: And yes, this is a very common problem. One of Nintendo's biggest engineering screwups this go around.

Not a problem!

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY

This is basically a cheat when it comes to cleaning bearings in my honest opinion. Expose the bearing (remove the caps), aim the nozzle angled to the bearings as if you were drying them with compressed air. Get a good spray for one second. Shake to remove excess, and screw buttons back together. Can't recommend it enough!

There's a rubber covering at the base of the analog stick, just lift it up, poke the plastic straw on the nozzle of the WD-40 electrical contact cleaner can under it, and spray it. Don't go crazy, just make sure to get a little bit on all sides. Also, make sure to use the WD-40 electrical contact cleaner, not regular WD-40. Here's a link to the correct product on Amazon. If your drift is caused by dust or dirt getting into the analog stick, this should fix it. However, if it comes back, then the stick itself is worn out and you'll need to send it in to Nintendo for repair.

I'm trying my best to help, i have no idea what the Firefly is.

I just looked it up. Holy shit, theres a USB cable the lights it up.

YOu can "cross fingers" try this: WD 40 Electrical Cleaner

DOnt use water since theres a circuit board inside.

This, and you can actually get some from a Chrysler/Dodge dealer, but here is an Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Chrysler-Accessories-5018045AA-Electrical/dp/B00BV4D98Y

I've used this on electronic components (car and computer) for over a decade.

1. Don't put it on the fridge. Condensation is bad for electronics.
   
2. Don't use a hair-dryer because that will just bake on all of the non-water components of your coffee.
   
3. If you have accidental damage coverage in your warranty and are still within the warranty period, invoke it.
   
4. If you don't have accident coverage or are outside the warranty period, you can get Dell to repair it for you, but it might cost as much as buying a new laptop.
   
5. You can try taking the whole thing apart and cleaning anything that has coffee on it with electronics cleaner and a lint-free cloth. Dell's service manuals are pretty easy to follow. If it still doesn't work after cleaning, you're probably going to need to replace the motherboard and anything else that got coffee damage.
   
6. Get a spill-free coffee thermos.

This kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

I don't know about that particular brand. That's just the first one that came up when I googled. Should be fine, though. I imagine it'll still void your warranty much like opening it up would. But you'll probably fix it in seconds instead of months...

https://youtu.be/0QvOepREO4k?t=5m55s

That's a video of a guy cleaning knobs on a guitar amp. But cleaning a knob is a cleaning a knob, so it should explain what I'm talking about. I haven't watched it though, so it might be boring.

Jesus, NO!. The guy said electrical parts cleaner not alcohol. Buy this crap, take your drill apart and douse all the oil off with this shit.

Thanks for posting this. I wish there were more posts like this!

1. Sounds like your steering is neutral, or you had a bad alignment job. Did you replace all the ball joints yourself?
   
   
2. If the plastic cover annoys you, remove it.
   
   
3. I'm not really a shill, I promise.
   
   
4. Was going to suggest you get a multimeter and check the voltage regulator.
   
   
5. The noise is usually from a bad idler pulley. Good catch!

We had the drift issue as well. After reading about the fix using an electrical contact cleaner, I figured I'll give it a try. It worked. Just use a knife to lift up the rubber flap under the joystick, spray the cleaner inside, rotate stick a few times, let it dry. No more drifting. Not sure how long the fix will stay in place, but I'll keep doing this to avoid buying a new controller.

https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/

For the crackly jacks, a contact cleaner should work -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006LVEU/

Hosa D5S-6 Deoxit Contact Cleaner 5% Spray http://amzn.com/B00006LVEU

I just bought a can of this myself for my amp

They make cleaner specifically for electronics: http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI

Contact cleaner i wouldn't put alcohol water or anything remotely conductive on it.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quick-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458003092&sr=8-2&keywords=contact+cleaner

try electronic cleaner worked for me and i just used the tiniest spray of it i could i think someone wrote a guide on here at some point

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI

Would contact cleaner work in this instance?

https://www.amazon.com/Max-Professional-2015-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B004PHDLQY

Electrical Contact Cleaner Amazon Example

Take knobs off fader

Get WD-40 electrical contact cleaner, spray it on a qtip and scrape the gunk out. You can use a bunch of this stuff and even directly blast it in the fader channel. It evaporates very quickly.

Then, get silicone grease on another qtip and use the tiniest amount to lube the fader. A little of this goes a long way. Too much and you’ll end up with more debris.


https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/


https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/

Price dropped on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/GIDDS-302932-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=3PN9JM3ZL8H0J&keywords=wd40+electrical+contact+cleaner&qid=1554541248&s=gateway&sprefix=wd4&sr=8-1

wd40 makes a line of contact cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00AF0OFVU

If you really need to spray something into your computer (protip: you don't), use a specially designed electric contact cleaner. https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-Specialist-Electrical-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00CMT9TFY