I believe [removed] means the mods removed it, not the user

Here's the post from google cache by /u/xtraveler192

>
> I've installed a bunch of accessories and thought I'd write up some quick notes. No reason for long reviews on most of these products.
>
> ​
>
> Wireless Charging Pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q9L6DJN/
>
> -- Fits in nicely, but doesn't seem to support fast charging despite contact with the seller. (Yes, I've connected it to a QC 3.0 Adapter for fast charging)
>
> -- Might return it and just go wired charging with a QC 3.0 Power Bank.
>
> -- Still undecided
>
> ​
>
> Front/ Rear Seat Floor Mats: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0792RW471/
>
> Picture: https://imgur.com/a/wr6sC87
>
> -- I first thought they looked cheap, but once installed the lines are so clean it fits seamlessly
>
> -- The hexagon shape is great for catching dirt, verus having it slide around the mat before it hits the edges
>
> -- Highly recommend
>
> ​
>
> Center Console/ Cup Holder Liner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FN6X5QS/
>
> -- Fits really nicely, easy to remove and clean, keeps everything from sliding around
>
> -- Highly recommend for a basic liner, splash of color
>
> ​
>
> Trunk/Frunk Liner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KZJMV5V/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/ZHTkrSn
>
> -- Clean lines, easy install, but doesn't fully cover every inch of the trunk space
>
> -- Tougher to get to lower compartment with items in trunk, but a small inconvenience
>
> -- Recommend for the price
>
> ​
>
> Door Open Stickers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXYBPYH/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/cpn0QB7
>
> -- Day 1 & 2 showing people the car they all pulled emergency handle before I could catch them
>
> -- Since installing this no issues, and most people think it's a factory decal
>
> -- Highly recommend
>
> ​
>
> USB for DashCam/ Sentry Mode: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7PDLXC/
>
> -- Everything has been great so far, plenty of storage
>
> -- I followed this instruction and had no issues at all: https://teslatap.com/articles/usb-flash-drives-for-tesla-dashcam/
>
> -- I formatted using GUIFormat (link in article) and it was quick and easy
>
> -- Recommended
>
> ​
>
> Key Card Holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QPKW4Y9/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/0uCNAtc
>
> -- I don't like Tesla's phone connection, since I can't get text messages or any notifications, so I use my card often
>
> -- Placing this on top of the console wrap (see below), seems pretty seemless and prevents my card from sliding around
>
> -- Recommend for those that use the card often, or might use valet
>
> ​
>
> White Carbon Fiber Center Console Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MHYLGD7/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/8KGLycF
>
> -- This is awesome, take your time with install, the videos on evwraps.com are prefect and very clear
>
> -- The one mistake I made noone notices, so I don't point out (cup holder piece is the hardest to install FYI)
>
> -- BUY THIS NOW!!! (Especially if you have the white interior, I think it's the best accessory I have
>
> ​
>
> Screen Protector: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKGDC5M/
>
> -- Easy install, it basically suctioned itself to the screen after placing 1 corner
>
> -- My fingers slide easily on the screen, and cleaning it is a breeze
>
> -- Highly recommend, can't beat the price
>
> ​
>
> Center Console Organizer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M8NRLV8/
>
> Pic: https://imgur.com/a/kC8CTCx
>
> -- Great organizer, great price, easy to pop in and out
>
> -- Make sure you put the organizer in, and then lower the phone holder, reverse order to take it out
>
> -- Highly recommended
>
> ​
>
> Dash Phone Holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RVB24W1/
>
> -- I bought this to wireless charge and use Waze (normally key for my commute)
>
> -- It didn't fit well on the dash, and the cable run was going to get in the way of the clean interior lines
>
> -- Not recommended
>
> ​
>
> I'll answer questions that come up.
>
> (I wish I had set up an Amazon Associate Account to get a cut of these products, lol)
>

Much like a Steam login, the owned game is attached to the account used, I believe; though I've not attempted to add another account to my OUYA. Will update when I test it out. As far as killer apps, here's my list of apps I can think of:

Before we start, I'd greatly advise you buy a USB Drive (32gb or 64gb). You can install games and store game ROMs and video on it. 8gb will not be enough, trust me.

Video:

• Crunchyroll streaming for Anime and Asian Drama lovers.
  
• XBMC: Media center that can play just about any audio file, video file, DVD ISO, and it also has plug-ins for YouTube, Twitch, 1Channel (for movie/TV show streaming) and a LOT more. XBMC essentially has its own ecosystem of add-ons for media. Well worth looking into IMO.
  
  • Pro tip: the version downloadable from the official website is better than the one currently posted to the OUYA store.
    
• Netflix (Unofficial): You can finds and side-load the apk for Netflix and it streams in high quality. I love it.
  
• Twitch: Self explanatory. Watch game streams. Good times.
  
  Emulators:
  
  
• Snes9X (SNES) and the ".emu" emulators (NES, Master Drive, Gameboy, etc.) are all made by the same dev. They are all free. He added a cool feature that can make the OUYA sync to a Wii Remote or Wii U Pro Controller. You can also set custom keymappings and visual styles.
  
  
• I also bought SuperGNES, which is prettier and way simpler to use, but I can't map controls with it and it has to authenticate via internet to reactivate the paid features.
  
• FPse (PlayStation 1): This one I recommend buying. It's well worth it and a great quality emulator. It has tons of features and, since you can link a PS3 controller wirelessly, it's way satisfying to play with an official controller.
  
• Mupen64 (N64): This one takes some tinkering to get it running smoothly but it's a solid emulator.
  
• PPSSPP (PSP, unofficial app): Tested it myself. It sadly can't smoothly upscale the graphics so when running smoothly it will look like a stretched PSP but it's still satisfying to play with a PS3 controller.
  
  Games:
  
  
• TowerFall Ascension: By far one of the must-haves on OUYA, this chaotic, 4-player game was the first exclusive to put OUYA on the map, games-wise.
  
• Too Many Me: This game. Is so fun. It is a great platformer with an awesome art style and fun gameplay. It's available to try before purchasing.
  
• Final Fantasy III: This game was well worth the money for me. It is a classic game that was only released in the U.S. for Nintendo DS, and smartphones at the time of OUYA's release. The OUYA was the first TV console release and it is such classic RPG fun.
  
  
• Honorable mentions go to Whispering Willows, Neverending Nightmares, Amazing Frog?, You Don't Know Jack, The Cave, DubWars, Knightmare Tower, BombSquad, and so many others I probably can't think of. These are only the games I have played. The other high-rated games in the store are pretty great too.

Firstly, not to knock whitebox builds (I used to go this route), but have you seen the 12-bay R510? You can get the whole shebang with trays for the same price as just that case you're looking at. Yes, it's only half the bays, but do you really need 24 from the get-go? Just something to consider. I've got one myself, and

Onward!

Build:

1. Mirrored is best for data integrity. Spinny disks won't tend to fail at the same time because their failures aren't necessarily time- or operation-bound. Failures are more or less random than caused by any one thing in particular.
   
2. That's a good question. I was always under the impression that you could not expand your arrays.
   
3. Expanders are fine, it's the hardware RAID you want to avoid with ZFS. If you go hardware RAID you might as well skip ZFS and just present the array as a device extent via iSCSI (or FC if you're feeling edgy).
   
4. A) You don't need a ton of compute unless you're doing lots of computationally heavy operations like deduplication or weird, inefficient compression, so don't feel like you need super beefy CPUs, but on the other hand, more GT/s never hurt anybody... Look for boards with several PCIe x4 - x16 slots to support later add-ons like 10GbE cards (which is where the GT/s comes into play). If you're just sharing files, even a crappy old Core2 would do just fine. B) It should be noted that with ZFS you don't need to use iSCSI at all if you just want to share files, since you could just create SMB shares right in FreeNAS. It all depends on whether or not you actually need to access this array at the block level from your compute nodes (I'm guessing you don't). On the note of separating compute from storage, I also do this, so I agree with your line of thinking there.
   
5. I would recommend a server board that supports registered ECC, e.g. something that supports Xeon 5600 / E5 series. Registered RAM is far cheaper and much more plentiful, plus you increase your total capacity limit. It's a win-win-win.
   
6. ZFS always has a ZIL, but by default it's in the same place as the rest of the data. What you're referring to is externalizing it from the array (typically referred to as a SLOG), which isn't a bad idea if you're looking for additional write performance. What you'll want to be conscientious about is hosting it on a mirror of SSDs if you do decide to move it off the array in order to maintain redundancy. In short, ZIL and SLOG are the same thing, but are called such based on where it's located.
   
   Backups:
   
   
7. Are you referring to backing up the laptop or the pool?
   
8. Just mirror your FreeNAS boot drive. Since you're only using it for file storage I would actually suggest a pair of these 64GB Cruzer Fit drives instead of dedicated disks for a few different reasons.
   
   Btw, do yourself a favor and stay away from WD Green drives. Yes, you can make them work, but it's easier and more often than not just simply a better option to go for the Reds (or some nice HGSTs) instead. I've got many of them (Reds) that have been purring away for years in my R510 that haven't missed a beat.

I have a little pouch that holds a bunch of flash drives, 1TB ext. HDD and a 512GB ext. SSD. For the flash drives I have a retail Win10 USB that has the original build on it, 8GB, 16GB, a 128GB 3.1 gen2 USB SSD and 2x 32GB 3.0 drives.

The 8GB has the most up to date Win10 install for both x64 and x32, but also is used when another iso is needed to be burned and used, more on this later.

The 16GB holds very commonly installed programs that grab the latest version during install anyway. Ninite for all the runtimes like java, flash, shockwave, acrobat etc. Chrome, Firefox, iTunes, VLC, and other common goodies. I also use chocolatey in some specific cases.

Both 32GB have Windows PE with many tools that do everything from virus removal and windows repair to disk cloning, partition management, password stripping, etc. Check out Hiren's Boot CD revived into a bootable PE, this has all the tools I use and more, I will be switching to this soon. Inside the flash is a folder with my custom scripts and other tools that are meant to be ran inside the OS. This allows for the drive to either be booted from, or plugged into a PC and used as a normal flash drive for holding my own custom tools, more on those later.

Finally, the 128GB is a SanDisk Pro Extreme (Amazon): it has Arch Linux installed with persistence, not to be confused with live booting. I chose this flash drive because it is super fast and is actually like an SSD and not a flash drive, because it has an intelligent memory controller unlike regular USB drives making it usable as an actual system drive.

The 1TB ext. HDD is used for large client backups. Once the backup is complete, depending on what the client wants, the drive is either formatted (also zeroed out securely if client requests) on-site after data has been verified and transferred the way they want, or brought back to my office and put on a machine that has a compartmentalized file structure running on a RAID6. This system is completely airgapped.

Lastly, the 512GB WD Passport which is relatively new to my collection. It is an external rugged SSD using the Type-C interface. It has a compressed *.iso image of the Windows PE drives I use, a duplicate copy of all the installers mentioned before, and a folder full of retail isos. I have the original (legitimate) installer .iso for Win7 Home, Pro, and Ultimate, Win8.1, and Win10. Also all the MS Office installers dating back to 2007. This drive is only brought out if I need it and serves as a backup in case one of my drives gets corrupt and needs to be re-flashed or if a client has the product key for an old version of office and is really adamant about not upgrading to 365. Also if I need to reinstall Win7, Win8.1 or boot off of some weird linux distro I take the iso from here and burn it to the 8GB drive mentioned earlier.

​

As for my custom scripts, I have created a TON over the years. I would be happy to start up a github and put them up there with some documentation if people would be interested! Some that I can name off the top of my head are:

-A robocopy batch file that automatically copies the entire Users, Program Files, and Program data on the specified drive. This script is meant to be run from the target drive, such as the 1TB I mentioned earlier. With this script I can plug in the drive, double click the batch file and let it do its thing. This will automatically copy all the important user and program data to the drive from which it was ran, in this case the 1TB

-A script that pulls the computers info and spits it out to a text file named via variables "User-SerialNumber"

-A script that generates a list of all installed programs via a WMIC command. Useful before a Restore/Refresh

-A script that changes power settings to high performance and disables Windows Telemetry.

-A script for repairing OS corruption. DISM, SFC, then CHKDSK, Netsock, netsh, ipconfig /release|/renew|/flushdns etc.

-A script that asks for the workstation's name, then generates a text file containing the computer info and emails it to me so I can later inventory it for that specific client in order to keep track of the device which is associated with a particular help desk ticket or issue.

​

There are plenty others, but I just woke up and haven't had coffee yet lol. Let me know if anyone is interested, maybe I can throw together a github for it. Would be a fun little side project.

edit:



I have gotten a few scripts documented and uploaded, have a look!

https://github.com/A13Xg/Automated_Repair

https://github.com/A13Xg/Sysinfo-Scraper

It's a great machine. Only problem I've had is the forced updates from Microsoft that have kind of broken my automatic controller functionality in a lot of games. I've seen other issues, though they all seem to be repairable/reversible issues. This specific issue has made it difficult for some of my games to easily see there's a controller available.

I have a 128 GB Samsung Ultra Fit USB flash drive that sits in the back. It's very low key and not noticeable. It does make it difficult to move the screen back completely but the position it is in is just fine with me. There is also a common issue with the USB 3.0 port that makes it sometimes not readable but it just takes a little move and the system recognizes its in there. Just seems to be a cheaply made port, is all. It works most times and has never randomly disconnected on me. This just usually becomes a problem when I remove it and put it back in. Currently there doesn't seem to be anything this small to allow for portability and ease of putting in your pocket, etc. that's above 128 GB. I paid like $30 for it at a local store. That has all of my games on it with Skyrim being the only game I have installed on the internal memory.

In addition to that, I have a 64 GB Micro SD card that is in there and I've just started using it for anything extra I have. 256 GB Micro SD cards are pretty pricey at $150+ for a decent one that will work with your gaming needs.

If you truly stick to emulators, I think that 128 GB USB flash drive will be suffice for you for everything while helping you save money and allowing you time to save up for a 256 GB Micro SD card like I'm doing.

The GPD Win is pretty pricey on its own but you can get lucky if you don't mind getting one used. I got one in superb condition for $300 off eBay (the number 1 key doesn't work, but that's okay) as they are about $439 brand new starting and they take longer to ship because they come from China. I've also read some people having issues where customs opened their box thinking it was drugs. There are also people on this sub selling theirs, one guy today posted one asking $250 and saying it's brand new in the packaging. Doing that may help you save money to put towards an expensive, good SD card too.

Oooh, this is a fun challenge.

• Knife: Spyderco Dragonfly 2 : $49
  
  This is the most expensive item on my list, but I figure that with knives this is the best small EDC knife you can get for the money. I'm not a fan of large knives for daily carry, and the Dragonfly gets the job done.
  
  
• Watch: Casio Men's Sport Analog Dive Watch : $17
  
  While I initial thought was the F-91W, this watch seems to have far better water-resistance for roughly $7 more. Plus I prefer analog watches.
  
  
• Wallet: Magpul Industries Daka Polymer Wallet : $17
  
  While I've never used one of these personally, why not take the loss of all my stuff as an excuse to pare down how much bullshit I carry in my wallet? Reviews (outside of Amazon) seem pretty good and I'd love to give this thing a shot.
  
  
• Multitool: Atwood Prybaby Chinese Knockoff : $3
  
  I like having one of these kinds of dumb little multitools handy for prying and bottle-opening and other random tasks that I wouldn't want to abuse my knife with. At only $3 it's worth the space in my budget and my keychain. Speaking of keychains...
  
  
• Keychain: Stainless Steel Aircraft Cable Keychain : $2
  
  If you're like me, you often have to add and remove keys and other items from your keychain. Wire/cable keychains are the friggin best for this. I generally prefer the ball-and-socket types rather than the kind that screw closed, but I'm counting my dollars here.
  
  
• Writing Utensil: Pilot G2 0.5mm (12-Pieces) : $10.75 per 12, ~$1 per ea.
  
  I can't stand pens that use caps, and nothing writes as well for me as the Pilot G2. 0.5mm is about as fine a line as I want to get because the 0.38mm ones tend to get a bit scratchy on most paper. And if you'll allow me to count the cost as only a dollar rather than the price of a twelve-pack...
  
  
• Bonus Round: Kingston Digital 32GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive : $9
  
  With a few extra buck open in the budget, I realized that I've had one of these on my keychain for about as long as I can remember, and it pays to have one handy with a copy of your choice of documents, music, and other media. Super handy to keep available at all times.
  
  --
  
  My total price for these tools puts me at $98, assuming the cost of only one pen. I assumed that I would be able to keep my phone, which provides me with enough illumination that I've never bothered with carrying a dedicated flashlight outside of the colder months when I'm usually wearing a coat. So I didn't bother with choosing one for this challenge. Anyone have any good suggestions for AAA, clicky tail-button flashlights under $20?

I would recommend a flashlight, and small multitool.

Flashlight

I would recommend the Fenix E05 | [Amazon Link] $20.13 for a very small light.

Multitool

The Leatherman Style | [Amazon Link] $16.79 is my most used item on my keychain because of the great scissors and minimal toolset. It has none of the tools I don't ever use. If you're looking for a more versitile toolset, look through the remainder of Leatherman's great micro-multi-tool lineup. Try to stay away from Gerber products if at all possible.

Flash-Drive

A flash-drive can be useful as well, but it's hard to find one that is both small and durable. I did a lot of research on which option to buy for quite a while. The grail of USB flash drives is the PQI Tiffy because of its incredible speed and durable housing. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to find for sale, and it's also super expensive. I went for the Kingston Datatraveler | [Amazon Link] $10.40, and it's working very well for me.

Fire

I've rarely needed one, but many folks want to carry a fire-starter with them, and there are some small options for your keychain. The Exotac NanoStriker $23.50 is a ferrocerium-based striker, and the True Utility FireStash [Amazon Link] $16.23 is a simple, tiny lighter.

Suspension

Finally, it's nice to have your keys hanging in a comfortable place in your pocket, and not in a bunched-up heap at the bottom. Definitly consider grabbing a P-7 suspension clip $12+shipping. I waited a while to pull the trigger on mine, but I don't regret it.
Another option would be the Obstructures Pry/Open tool $32. It serves as a pry-bar, which you don't yet understand how much you might use after you start carrying one.

Additional Information

Here's my setup today.

Here is a great post by /u/goretsky about where to buy one-handed multi-tools like Atwood, etc.

---------------------

P.S. It's great to have a color-scheme for your keychain. It looks fantastic.

I bought one over the weekend for exactly this and I've had time to watch a couple shows and a movie on it...

I think it's great...I really enjoy the Netflix experience and the movie theater experience you get with the Oculus video thing is really awesome! Like others have said it would have been really cool of them to include an SD card reader but 64 GB (maybe even 32) should be enough to store a few movies on when traveling. If that isn't enough storage you'll soon be able to utilize USB storage so something like this would be pretty nice because it wouldn't weigh the headset down at all.

Long story short I really like it for watching stuff on...You aren't going to have a 4K or really even Blu Ray experience, but if you're content with DVD quality or so (maybe slightly better) image and a large screen I say go for it. I also think it would be cool, especially with the Netflix app, to have a place that feels nice and comfy to watch stuff in regardless of the Hotel you're staying at...sit back on a bed or a couch and kick your feet up, throw on the Go, click Netflix - and you're in this cozy and familiar log cabin with a giant screen and all of your Netflix content.

Additionally - when they get it up and running, either in the Oculus Video app or Big Screen, get your significant other/kids one to leave at home and you guys can watch movies together while you're on the road (or not, that really depends on your persons at home).

My only real cons are the usual stuff with VR...the sweet spot, while bigger, is still smaller than I'd like it to be - especially for reading text, the battery life isn't the best, and the picture - while better than ever - still leaves something to be desired.

Regardless, I hope this helps - good luck with your decision!

/u/Darrkman's (sorry ahead of time lol) recommendation is spot on. The Spigen case he recommends is definitely very nice looking and provides good protection. While it was not asked of you, I still will have to recommend
This gadget as well. 64GB model obviously. Super cheap, but feels like I paid a lot more.It snaps in place into your USB port securely so you don't have to worry about disconnects, and it is extremely portable.

I'll skip the often said and repeated great features you probably know of (e.g.camera). Multi-Window is an awesome feature. I love the chat-heads functionality that FB Messenger has, so being able to replicate it with other apps is a plus. The IR Blaster is an awesome feature. If you pair it with this app you'll find that you'll be hunting around your living/dining room a lot less for that one remote. Screen recording on the device is smooth as butter at 60FPS, 4K/1080p quality.

You'll hear a lot of complaints regarding software performance and it is a serious issue right now. That ultimately depends on the type of user you are though, and how you will use the S6. If you like to root and you opt in for the S6, hope you have an older firmware. If you do, cancel any OTA's, and look up the procedure. There is very little development for this phone. In some areas there is literally none. If you will not root, update ASAP, the performance will be greatly improved. When Android M is released for the S6 the supposed RAM and software issues will supposedly be fixed. I don't have the source for that statement though, so take it with a grain of salt. I could go on longer, but I don't want to write a college assignment sized amount of content here and I'm lazy as hell.

tl;dr: Get it if you love Samsung devices, and do not mind a possible caveat in RAM management. Do not get it if you like being able to fully customize your phone.


(edit: redundant line derp.)

Refurbs are in a very good shape - Apple repairs and double-chekcs them itself so they are almost like brand new. First of all, if you want your laptop to last 5+ years, invest into 16GB of RAM.

Also, the 2015 model doesn't have an USB-C port which also will be a big thing in the future. It's not like the legacy ports will disappear but the all-in-one concept of USB-C and strong pro-USBC policy of Apple will eventually put USB-C on top of I/O and will force manufacturers to focus on USB-C peripherals.

Also, you don't need a "plethora of dongles" to bridge the gap for now. You need:

https://www.owcdigital.com/products/usb-c-dock

or

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/hyperdrive-thunderbolt-3-usb-c-hub-for-macbook-pro#/

Also, you can get another smaller USB-C hub if you needed to plug in things on the go, such as:

http://www.satechi.net/index.php/type-c-usb-hub-gunmetal

And there are plenty of USB-C + USB-A flash drives if you need that for school as well:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-DataTraveler-Micro-Flash-Drive/dp/B010HWCFDA

And when it comes to 2017 vs. 2015 - better screen, better and more power efficient processor, better graphics card (in both 13" and 15") faster SSD, bigger trackpad (you may or may not find it better), different keyboard (you may or may not find it better - I personally do like the 2017 one more), better speakers, lighter, smaller, no glowing Apple logo on the back, no MagSafe.

Honestly, the only thing that the 2015 model has going for it is the presence of legacy ports (which, as you can see, can be easily fixed with a single dongle on the 2017) and, for some, keyboard. I'd go for the newer model and I'd also save up a bit and upgraded to 16GB RAM. It's not necessary, but it will be a nice thing to have especially in the future.

A 64GB flash drive should be plenty as far as storage goes, but please please please keep backups elsewhere, such as some cloud service or even another flash drive. If your flash drive dies there's little that can be done to recover the data and you will feel absolutely shitty.

When you have a little extra money to spend, I highly recommend getting something like this. It uses RAID and keeps a copy of the same data on two separate hard drives. That is to say, if one dies, the data is still safe on the second drive. You can then replace the dead drive, and it automatically copies the data over from the good drive to the new one.

But to answer your question: In the meantime, yes, a flash drive is fine, but make frequent backups to something like Google Drive. I'd recommend something like this that's waterproof and has a wide safe temperature range (in case it's left in a car or something).

Good luck!

Unraid OS runs off USB key like this one . All hard drives are for data only.

Take a look at their site for details, but basically you can mix and match your drives. So you can have 8TB + 6 + 2 + 1 + 320GB drives if you want. Eventually you can toss smaller drives for bigger and grow total space you have available. It's a very simple process. Once again Unraid has a pretty good wiki on how to do all that. I want to mention that each drive has it's own filesystem and all files are always intact (no striping), so technically you can yank a drive and put it in enclosure to move/recover files.

Your parity drive needs to be as large as the largest one in the array and it's the one that provides data loss protection if one of the drives shits the bed. Parity drive is optional, but you really should provision one drive for that.

Your parts look fine. I haven't heard of Avexir RAM brand before, but RAM is RAM as long as it works. Don't bother with CPU cooler. Pretty sure that i3 comes with stock cooler, stick with that, it's fine. You can always get that SSD later, it's not required.

You only need SSD (or just a dedicated drive in general) if you want cache drive and/or want to have docker containers for things like torrent client, plex, etc. It's a pretty nifty system. It's optional too. I didn't have SSD for a couple of months until I got sata expansion card to get more SATA ports. Speaking of which, your mobo only has 6 SATA ports, so you might need to get one too if you fill case with drives and want cache drive too.

I recommend this flash drive. Super small, durable, easy to carry. Plus it looks great.

For a knife, a Spyderco Ladybug or Dragonfly would be good places to start. The Ladybug is really small but it takes and holds an edge well and I've used mine for all sorts of shit. Very much a keychain knife. The Dragonfly is bigger and has a clip, so there are more carry options, but it also takes up more space. If space isn't a concern, I'd opt for a Spyderco Delica or Endura. All these knives have VG-10 steel, which offers the best bang for your buck (in my opinion) until you start getting into the higher-end knives. You could also opt for a multi-tool, in which case I'd suggest a Leatherman Juice or Squirt.

As for a watch, it really depends on your needs. Are you looking for stylish or practical?

Get an A&P ring for all your gadgets. I use a bunch of size .5 Nite-Ize s-biners to attach all of my stuff to my ring, which is nice because it makes it really easy to remove/add things as you need to. An alternative to the A&P ring would be a Lucky Line ring.

Also, one unsolicited recommendation: get a Gerber Shard. They're five bucks and incredibly useful. One of the best purchases I've ever made.

I was in the market for a Chromebook a few months ago, but was holding off to see what came out in Q4. Then I saw the HP Stream and got excited, but it wasn't available in any local stores yet. (I didn't want to just order it online because I like to touch laptops before buying them.)

Then I saw the X205 at Best Buy last weekend, played with it for a bit, and snatched it up hella-fast. My wife has a Lenovo Yoga 2 and (minus the touchscreen) they are quite comparable.

Speakers on the X205 are super loud and sound great for the size of the laptop. Off to Windows is about 12-15sec. I bought one of those nano USB keys in 32GB to increase my storage of files too.

So on one hand, I agree with ponlork about NOT deleting the games or games_cache folders within hakchi, as there are .desktop and .json files hakchi depends on to display your library properly. You would think deleting it wouldn't do anything because it was empty when you first unpacked hakchi, but trust me ... it matters. (found out the hard way once.)

On the other hand I agree with JW_Pepper_Sheriff about the time involved. I use the drive linked below, and it only takes 45-50 minutes to upload my entire collection of 1,111 games which total about 96GB or so. (Got to leave room for those save states.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7PDLXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not that anyone asked, but IMHO the SNESc is the ultimate classic system! Nintendo gets some credit for the unit itself and the front-end, but it is of course due in large part to coders like KMFDManic, DantheMan and so so many others. Testers and tutorial creators like PattonPlays & ETA Prime should get a huge shout out too.

That sounds very cool, for sure. It looks like the payment stuff is already being put on phones (google wallet). While a phone is nice, it is far from being tamper proof given that it can execute foreign code.

The screen would be a nice thing to have on a device like this - like a direct interface. Another thing you could use the screen for is to receive a private message to the device, so it could act like a pager/text messenger.

Credit card size seems possible - either right now, or soon. The processor would definitely fit, and a metal back could act as a heat sink. The batteries would be hard to fit. For some crypto operations, it may be necessary to be plugged into power.

If this has a USB interface, it seems the device would be at least as thick as the USB port, just so the USB port doesn't break off. Something like this.

This made me think of another idea: have a little card you plug into your phone (like a SIM card) which can do public key crypto, and stores its own key. The phone could provide power and a screen. The device would ensure it is unique and do two-factor authentication.

I'm not totally sure the payment stuff would be necessary any time soon, if you have a normal bank with fraud detection (I think this works fairly well). However, it could be immensely useful for Bitcoin transactions: it could store the wallet's private key and sign the transactions. That appears to be 512 bit ECC. There might be a lot of interest there as well - they are definitely into this sort of thing. The device would have to be extremely reliable, though, since if you lose your key, you lose money.

I have my media (mostly ripped movies) on a NAS and use PLEX on my 16GB Shield.

I bought a 128GB USB 3.1 drive (here) and made it attached storage.

The Plex web and mobile apps work fine. I don't have PlexPass, but I tried it free for 30 days. I decided not to renew because I personally didn't think the benefits were that great. Some of them include (and I'm sure there are others):

• Movie trailers for movies you own
  
• More than 5 min of playback on the mobile app
  
  The Shield does not need to be on all the time; I let mine sleep when I'm done with it.
  
  If you install Plex, you might also want to look into installing the Kodi app and the (PlexKodiConnect)[https://forums.plex.tv/t/plexkodiconnect-kodi-plex-integration-done-right/137555] Kodi add-on that gives you a lot of cool features.
  
  BTW, I don't play games either, but my son and I have found a few games we like and play pretty often. The graphics are fantastic and NVidia GeForce Now is unreal.
  
  Edit: Fixed wrong name for NVidia's service

Safe options to avoid modifying your existing Windows drive:

• Buy a Sandisk USB3 16-32GB flash drive, and perform a conventional install to it. You would be amazed at how fast Arch boots and runs this way!. Be careful about your /dev devices during this process. It's really pretty easy. It also functions as a rescue tool, and as a way to easily demo Linux on a non-believers laptop for them.
  
  
• Buy or find an inexpensive ($50) hdd (for Arch, temporarily) and swap your Windows drive out.
  
  
• As others say, try VirtualBox under Windows to host your Arch guest.
  
  I still use the first option everyday even after years.
  
  The first two options will safely get you into Arch, and since they are hardware installs, they are exact practice for your final SSD install. (In my experience, VM's "hide" the (maybe slight) complexity of storage, network and graphics).
  
  Good luck.

I am extremely grateful for my caring family. They are always there to support me when I do sports or try my best to be a seminormal high schooler. I'm grateful for their understanding. They understand that I'm a high schooler and have to treat me differently from my brothers.
I'm also very grateful for the kind people of RAOA for doing these awesome giveaways

LINK

Grab an OTG usb adapter and a small 16gb usb drive ( though 8 gbs should honestly suffice, unless you're going to go haywire and add everything you can to it).

I currently have a total of 524 games on mine, for NES, SNES, Sega Genesis and Arcade games, which is all I'm currently interested in. I've only used up 2.5gbs and that is with the save states also being saved on the usb host, as opposed to the NAND memory on the console.

​

This is what mine looks like btw. I've shared these links before.

USB host pic 1

USB host pic 2

​

Works like a charm, though some people had issues working with theirs. Not sure if their USB drives are drawing too much power to work properly, or if the OTG hub is not functioning well.

​

I bought mine on Amazon and actually bought the two pack, just to be sure I would receive the correct right angle unit. 2 for 7.99 wasn't a bad deal. :\^]

Amazon: Right angle micro USB host with USB power

Amazon: SanDisk Cruzer Fit low profile 16gb USB drive

Enjoy! Got mine Saturday and love it.

Common recommendations;
Console wrap (ev wraps or Kendrick)
Wireless charger (Taptes works, but mine doesn’t sit very well in the location. Might be user error though)
USB drive (Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_spBGDbJGXFEQ3) is great
Floor mats (Tesla)
Microfiber clothes
Something to clean inside (car guys super cleaner for me)
Something to clean outside (optimum no rinse)


Probably more stuff I’m missing but this is a good start

It really depends on what you're looking for.

I'm partial to USB-powered (portable) external hard drives. You can usually find them for less than $50 including shipping if you're alright with keeping the size under 100 GB. Here's just one example from Amazon. This style is great because it only needs to be plugged into the Wii U (physically larger hard drives often require an AC adapter) and it's physically tiny so it will fit next to the Wii U and it's easy to travel with.

It's probably worth mentioning that if you go for an external hard drive, most of the brands have a good warranty, even if they aren't one of the main brands. Just check out the Amazon reviews. I got a super janky 320 GB drive for something like $40, but the reviews all indicated that the company provided great customer service. It's worked great for over a year.

You could also go with a flash drive (as far as I know... I don't see why not) for even more portability, but they are almost always more expensive per GB than an external hard drive would be. Amazon's got a 32 GB one for less than $20 today (assuming you have Prime).

Ok, since there seems to be interest in doing this on your own so I'll give a quick run down.

• Find a blind boxed vinyl toy of your liking that has a head that is moveable and is (obviously) wider than a USB stick. For this, I'd highly recommend Kidrobot's Dunny figures or other licensed ones such as their Futurama, Street Fighter, Simpsons, or South Park lines as they meet all of these requirements.
  
  
• Now that you have your toy picked out, you're going to need a USB stick. Since most of these figures are 3 inches tall, you're going to want one of those smaller sticks where it's about 1.5-2 inches total and you're also going to want a USB stick that comes in the traditional two-part way where there's a cover over the USB port that's a separate piece. Most USB sticks fit this criteria in this day and age, and considering how cheap USB sticks are, it's easy to buy a new one if your existing one is too big.
  
  
• Now for the fun parts! Take your vinyl toy and take either a heat gun (if you have one; they're pretty rare) or a hair dryer and heat up your toy until it becomes soft and malleable. Keep heating until you're able to literally just pop the head off of the figure.
  
  
• Take an X-Acto knife and cut the connection between the body and head out on both the body and the head so that now you have access to the hollow insides of the body and head.
  
  
• Take your USB stick and put the USB port side inside the body in the same way that the male connector was coming out of the top. Put the part that covers the USB port inside of the head.
  
  
• There's now a few options to keep everything in place. You can either fill the insides with some sort of liquid putty that dries hard, you could take paper or something similar and stuff the insides to keep the USB parts in place and then glue everything together (this is most certainly the most ghetto method), or what would work best, is to get some Super Sculpey (super cheap and available at your local craft store) and just connect from the USB parts to where the edges of the holes you cut are. If you go the Sculpey route, finish it off by using a heat gun on it again and it will cast the material so that it hardens.
  
  And there you go! For much less money you can have your own unique vinyl toy that doubles as a USB drive!
  
  Edit: I forgot to mention a few things. Other figures can also easily be used as your base. I'd highly recommend Super7 and other similar soft vinyl companies like Gargamel and Chiba Group for more unique designs for your base. Also, if you're into anime/games at all, you can easily use a full sized Nendoroid, but the process would be a little different as you'd be cutting non-hollow hard plastic instead, but the process would be much easier as you could simply glue the USB parts in. I also found a USB stick that meets all of the criteria for this that is quite cheap as well in SanDisk's Cruzer Fit series. But go crazy people, the possibilities are endless!

>I was referring to this model: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B013CCTNKU, which now appears to be the previous-generation... I have not tried the newer ones.

Oh, that is much better. I'll see if I can find a seller somewhere.

>Yes you can copy from one USB to another. There are a few ways to do it, with different pros and cons.. I'd use dd, but there's probably a friendlier tool if that doesn't fit your tastes. :)

Good to know, I'll try that as well.

Thanks for your help!

The best price-to-GB ratio will be found in USB "SSDs", e.g. the Samsung T5's. It's basically the same type of chips you'd find in a standard SSD paired with a USB controller. On USB 3.0 you can usually achieve around 350-400MB/sec sustained performance provided the flash controller and the chips can handle it. The USB overhead may be a slight bottleneck but you should see comparable performance to a mid-range SATA SSD.

Or you can build your own by picking up an mSATA SSD along with a USB3 pocket-sized enclosure. Example: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Enclosure-Adapter-Support-EC-UKMS/dp/B00LRZPNHM and https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-Internal-MZ-M5E500BW/dp/B00TGIVVKU/ - a 500GB for less than $200. In fact, some of the "USB SSD" solutions on the market are simply branded versions of this.

If you're really hoping for the stick formfactor typical of USB flash drives, I've had good luck with SanDisk Extreme Pro drives. Example: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SDCZ880-128G-G46-Extreme-128GB-Solid/dp/B01MU8TZRV/ These come close to the performance of an mSATA solution but as others have said they can have smaller caches which can make things like running an OS more erratic.

- Freenas is based on Freebsd, which takes a bit longer to support/optimize for new platforms. That being said, Freebsd fully supports Ryzen at this point in time. The only caveat is that most motherboards will not support ECC memory with an APU such as the 2200g.

​

- Microsoft has made great strides with Windows Storage Spaces in terms of performance, but I'll be damned if ill trust a windows os with my data. They are just too unreliable in terms of updates breaking things badly, poor code that causes memory leaks and other nasty things that are directly opposed to some of the main tenets of a storage solution: Uptime&Stability

​

This being said, for a small business, your most likely carefree experience will actually come to a platform that is tested by time, with the advantage of being very cost efficient. ECC DDR3 ram is very inexpensive right now, and the performance difference from a dual Xeon motherboard with 32gb of ddr3 to a Ryzen with the same amount will be minimal, while probably costing you a fraction.

​

As a quick example:

​

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Sever-Motherboard-S5520UR-Dual-XEON-CPU-SOCKET-LGA1366-SYSTEM-BOARD/233150647664?epid=97043371&hash=item3648dc8d70:g:NtoAAOSwoW1ceHLB

1 x S5520UR motherboard 19.95

​

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Matched-Pair-2x-Intel-Xeon-X5570-SLBF3-2-93GHz-8MB-LGA1366-Quad-Core-CPUs/163392681195?hash=item260af674eb:g:hdUAAOSwf1xb-Fgh

2 x Intel Xeon X5570 9.95

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2W66ZB/?tag=pcpapi-20

2x ROCC-16002 cooler 20.0

​

https://ebay.us/5VT5iP

48gb (6x8gb) ddr3 ecc PC3L-10600R memory - 75.99

​

https://ebay.us/S8U3if

Rosewill RSV-L4500 4U case 109.99

​

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1285892-REG/evga_100_b1_0700_k1_nex_700w_bronze_power.html

EVGA 700B 700W 80 Plus Bronze Power Supply - 29.99 after rebate

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QTSDDQ/?tag=pcpapi-20

Hitachi HUA723030ALA640 3TB Hitachi UltraStar 7K3000 x6 - 296.7

​

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-032G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG41W

SanDisk Ultra Fit 32GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive - 8.75

​

​

​

​

​

Total cost -> 571.32

​

This should get you started for a not very intensive investment. It's pretty amazing what you get for it

​

8 core / 16 threads at 2.93

48gb of ram

15tb of usable storage by going Raidz1

​

This is by no means a specific endorsement of these components, just an example of components that are more than adequate for the job and have been around for long enough for any potential bugs driver/firmware wise to have been sorted out.

-Unfortunately, Apple makes sure that you can't upgrade storage or RAM by yourself so that they can make as much money as possible. If you're really desperate on storage, you can buy a compact flash drive which sits almost flush with the laptop (like this one) or use a service like Google Drive. Then you can move your stuff over, then you'll be good on storage.

-It seems that if you're already playing games on the 4GB RAM, you should be good as long as you're not constantly adding new titles to your collection.

-As for engineering programs, I wouldn't recommend it but it seems that your MacBook is powerful enough to take it on. I would recommend that you keep the number of apps you have open to an extreme minimum while using those kinds of programs though.

-The whirring sound you hear is the fan inside. It keeps the processor cool in order to reach peak performance. That's why you hear it when you're playing games or performing demanding tasks (such as running engineering programs). It's supposed to do that, so don't worry - that means that your computer is working right!

I hope this helps!

it could be the case of write speed or it could be something else causing to not even start recording due to immediate corruption, cant say I have tried that type on usb/sandisk but I hope I can keep gathering information so I can provide the best option for owners to use without having to keep playing with different USB drives like its a deck of cards.


Edit: I'm talking with some guys that dabble a bit and they suggest for long term use Sandisk 128GB or 256GB USB 3.1 Solid State Flash Drive should be very well suited but what it comes down to would be if Tesla would have USB 3.1 ports in the front section to support the fast write speed that the aforementioned can handle. In the model 3 manual it talks about the rear ports being 2.0 and no mention to what the fronts are. Assuming the front are the same do they plan on it being retrofitted with 3.1 ports.


if they keep adding more cameras into the mix how would they address that (potential?) bottleneck

Edit 2: front USB is a 3.0 port so that's good news.

I have an Acer 14 and it's awesome. The screen is amazing quality for watching shows and the aluminum build is really beautiful.

I really don't think storage should be an issue at all. Invoices shouldn't be taking up a large amount of space. As the other user mentioned, google drive makes for a great place to store things, or to store backups. Additionally even though it doesn't have a sd slot, you can still get a usb drive for backup or storage of old

You can also get a usb drive like this: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A/ which barely sticks out and can easily be left in all time.

Well a quick search shows you can get a 500gb harddrive close to a$50 price point. I also know that WD includes a 3 year warranty.

That said, flashdrives are a good option, just keep in mind they can also break if you are a power user (and manufacturer's warranty tend to be shorter). Ones with slider mechanisms are particularly vulnerable but the good thing is data survives slider breakages.

With flashdrives I'd look at either the SanDisk Ultra Fit or the SanDisk Extreme. The first is pretty fast (no matter what you choose, go usb 3.0 with decent read speeds) and is nice and small so can sit in your computer 24/7 (with the sacrifice of some extra power drain) and the second one is super fast. Both come in 64gb options, unsure if you will be able to get anything over 64gb at a $50 price point.

I personally prefer the idea of something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-connector-Android-Devices-SDDD2-064G-G46/dp/B00RBGYGPG

You could your Linux Live-USB idea, but also keep the files accessible via USB so you can access them on a smartphone. A smartphone would be a much better device to have prepared for a SHTF situation. It's smaller, lighter, more power efficient, and can even be powered via solar energy. Pair it with a 20,000mAh power bank, and you might just get a month of power with the smartphone's radios turned off and brightness turned down.

Another good option would be a Kindle. A full charge can give a month of two of usage, and you can store lots of documents/manuals/books on their too.

Generaly speaking backups are just that. You don't necessarily need to back up your whole computer Just the important data.

So depends on what is important to you. If its just documents its not so bad. If its an archive of all your grandparent's photos yeah that can get a little costly.

I have a 1TB Mediafire for $45 a year. Plenty to store all my important documents and some of my imaging stuff. My video I have an acceptable loss policy, I have 2 - 5TB drives that I make sure are exactly the same when changes are made. But I am taking a risk with that even.

Yes the more data you wish to keep the more costly it is.

I can get a 256GB memory Stick for about 40 bucks

Meida fire costs now 7.50 a month or 90 for the year so call it an even $150. to get decent backups.


On the second part what you are talking about is cold storage. its a different type of data backup. It's low availability, you have to physically go get the disk. I would recommend at least 2 types of medium for that 1 offsite, could be in a bank, a parent or friends house, or at work. The point of the offsite is that if something physically happens to your location (Flood, tornado, hurricane) you know that the data is stored safely away from your area.



Honestly I would be happy if everyone had a cloud account and their computer. that will cover 80% of the instances where your computer crashes and you need your documents back.

I've always used the HP USB disk format tool to recover my flash drives. Maybe try that to get them working again. It's on windows though. I'm not sure about your boot errors. I installed using dual Sandisk usb 2.0 cruiser fit 16gb and it seems to work fine (11.2). There used to be an issue with 3.0 drives which is why I bought 2.0 just in case but I think that has been fixed now.

I recently heard Freenas is now writing stuff to boot media more frequently which is causing more burnout on USB drives. Mine have been fine for a few years now on multiple servers and still going strong (knock on wood).

I think i used win32diskimager to write freenas iso to my usb drive so maybe try that. Other than that good luck i hope you get it resolved.

All you need to do is buy a tiny usb flash drive, load up your music and that's it! Everything works. I the SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1 Flash Drive - SDCZ430-128G-G46 for $18.99 from BestBuy today. Just ask them to price match with Amazon.


So what doesn't this do? If you love Android Auto (which I hate) then you may not like this route, but honestly, I can't see how this isn't superior to both bluetooth and AA. You can still use AA for everything else.


It works fantastic and I'm really happy with it.

Well I went and bought this thing https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-METAL-Flash-MUF-64BA-AM/dp/B013CCTJKE

Read over a lot of reviews and Samsung seemed the only.. consistent ones I suppose. 30 - 40mb/s write might not be too crazy, but uploading 10GB in a few minutes seems pretty great to me. If it works as reliably as the Samsung memory card I got for my phone a few years ago, that'll be great.

I bought the i3 Non Touch, HD (768p) version, and have found it to be an awesome piece of hardware. The i3 is very fast, on the Dev channel it already has support for the Play Store and even without a touchscreen I find it very usable, plus for storage I have a 64gb ultra fit flash drive, and a SanDisk 64gb Micro SD card in at all times. The SD is for storage, and the USB has a chroot installed on it. The Ultra Fit is actually on sale right now from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG3JA) For $345 I would think hard about it... I got mine for a bit less than that, if you feel comfortable with that price though, I'd say it is a quite capable machine compared to the price you'd pay for the HP 13 or Pixel.

Only phones with Android 5.0 Lollipop officially support outputting audio through USB, and I have my doubts that that your stereo could receive that.

Otherwise, connecting an android phone via USB will only allow you to play music stored on the phone, and only if the head unit accepts the MTP (Media Transfer Protocol,) which is what all Android phones use since version 4.x (Ice Cream Sandwich.)

Older android phones show up as Mass Storage Devices, which your head unit almost certainly supports, but this is no more useful that just plugging in a super small flash drive into that USB slot, like this one or this.

Thanks, everyone, I really appreciate all the comments. I'm not sure if there is an issue with my SSD because it seems to connect to both my Mac and PC intermittently. I'm going to return it and today I'll be getting one of these:

SanDisk 256GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1 Flash Drive

Hopefully I won't have issues. I also like that it's super small and not a big box laying in the compartment.

Thanks again,

Vic

Hmmm, let me think here. A guy into games and technology must have a thumb drive, right? I got the Cruzer Fit on amazon a while ago. It is amazing and you can get up to 64gb on one. It kinda sounds like it should be a car with the name. I got 16gb since I don't transport much data (was cheaper too) and it is the tiniest tech thing I own. I am definitely going to get another one of the tiny ones when the time comes I lose the one I have or something. You should also look into a Contigo water bottle. They are awesome and don't leak and only let water through while you are holding a button down so you don't spill on your keyboard. Or, if you are like me, you won't pour water all over yourself by accident.


I am a 24/F job-floater looking for full-time work. I graduated over a year ago in double honors and haven't had any luck finding a job or fighting off depression. I have a potential job lined up when September rolls around though, so I have hopes. I am an artist as well, but haven't had much time to pursue the creation part of my life lately since I have been sick (I had MRSA and am still on antibiotics) and overwhelmed. I would mostly like either the 12 pack of Olivella bar soap or the pillow encasements from my wish list. I have pretty bad allergies and eczema and the soap is one of the few things I am not allergic to in the shower.


Welcome to our gifting network! Thank you for the competition!

A few extras I recommend:

• Dash Cam for sure, I recommend the Blackvue cameras.
  
  
• The Abstract Ocean LED light upgrade The lights that come with the car are pretty weak, and they make a huge difference in the trunk.
  
  
• Abstract Ocean Key Fob Covers which come in leather and silicon (I personally prefer the leather ones, I had both and the silicon didn't hold up very long for me)
  
  
• If you have a large USB music collection, this Low Profile USB Storage Stick will hold your music and it won't stick out like a sore thumb (drive)
  
  
• Model S and X don't come with spare tires, so this Tire Repair Kit from Tesla could come in handy if you have a small leak and don't have time to call roadside assistance
  
  
• I sleep in my car from time to time, so I leave a Tesla Blanket (unfortunately looks like those are no longer available) and a sleeping bag in the frunk. It's very comfy
  
  
• This flashlight has come in handy countless times, it's nice to carry around and it's powerful too
  
  
• A first aid kit and a ResQMe Car Escape Tool which is a spring loaded window breaker and seat belt cutter.
  
  Congrats and enjoy your new car!
  
  

> So DD the root partition with something like
> dd if=/dev/sde2 of=/path/to/image bs=1M

Yes.

> The boot partition is FAT?

Yes. http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/44074/raspberry-pi-3-why-the-fat-partition

> But on second thought I think SD or USB is a better option as I am not dependent on network.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Low-Profile-Drive-SDCZ33-016G-B35/dp/B005FYNSZA

Something like that would be ideal for form factor, anyway.

> That way if the SD card gets corrupted, I simply restore a backup of the boot only and that way I never have to backup my SD card as all my data is on the NAS (which is backed up)

It's important to distinguish between the file system and the device. Currently your sd card may be perfectly fine (or may not), it's just the file system that got corrupted. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Journaling_file_system

If you are running root on a usb device, and you lose power unexpectedly, you may still have a corrupted filed system.

And, you are of course correct, if the sd itself does crap out (and they do, I've done it) you can simply fire up a new /boot and keep on keeping on.

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Transfer-SDCZ80-064G-GAM46-Version/dp/B00KT7DOSE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419901776&sr=8-1&keywords=cruzer+extreme

The one I have. Speeds are as promised, with 4k read/write of 10MB/s over USB3 and 6MB/s over USB2. Unfortunately I wasn't able to get Windows 8.1 To Go to boot from it, but Linux works beautifully with SSD-like boot times, even over USB2.

I have this configured with a 15GB Linux partition that I can boot any computer from, and a 45GB NTFS data partition that stores all the rest of the stuff.

I should point out that this isn't an SSD, so it isn't really recommended to run an OS off of it due to the memory not being designed for it. SSD memory is quite a bit more durable. If you want something like this that will primarily be used to run a portable OS, I recommend investing some more money and getting a larger one with an SSD controller and higher-quality memory.

EDIT: Get the 64GB version, since speeds decrease pretty drastically with the 32GB and 16GB models.

Could you recommend me a small flash drive that's pretty fast and tiny or are those the best I can get? I might just get the 128gb version of my old drive haha. Would this be even faster than the other two? And is this about as good? I don't need to have a 3.1 port in my PC to be able to sustain those speeds, do I?

As a 6P owner, I'ma little biased but all that put aside, I came from a Note 3 so I had the same gripes as you: No expandable storage, no removable battery, etc...Here my solutions to those problems. For the most part the 6P battery will get me through a day of heavy use pretty easily (listening to spotify, watching videos, texting, emailing and whatnot). Just in case I always carry around a portable power bank. As for expandable storage, I would like to point out with Google's photo app, you receive unlimted storage for high quality photos, however, don't quote me on this, but at some point I believe past 1080P it starts to eat into a 10GB limit. I advise using a USB stick for external storage, it's small, portable, and overall very convenient. Best of luck making your decision! It's a tough one! If you have any questions about the 6P just let me know!

Edit: If you are strictly looking just to offload files to get more storage and not transfer them to a computer via usb, this Dongle gives you more storage and it costs less than the previous link. If you do want to move pictures and videos, you can always buy an adapter.

I recently upgraded from a GS4 to the Note 5. I went with the 32GB version. While I never had a huge issue with touchwiz, I decided to try out something new with the new phone and went with the nova launcher and it is awesome. The phone is much snappier and the fingerprint scanner is great. While I can't really compare it directly with the S6 or S7, this phone is great. The S-Pen is great so far, it's better than writing on paper it works so well. As far as storage goes, I think the 32GB is plenty. I currently have all the apps I use, plus all of my text messages from my old phone and still have 18GB free. I also keep a flash drive on my keys for larger games/emulators/movies and haven't had any issues yet. If you need more specifics, a standard picture is about 3.5MB for me, and a selfie is about 1.5MB.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBGYGPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

Gaming performance is great compared to the S4, the main game I play is called Crashlands, I used to have slowdowns when there was a lot on the screen at once, not anymore though. I can't really speak to the audio quality as it's not important to me.

Samsung Pay was easy to setup for me, but haven't really used it yet, although it is included in all of the phones you are considering.

This is awesome! Thx man was hoping to find a good sentry option. Currently using Samsung FIT Plus USB 3.1 Flash Drive 128GB - 300MB/s (MUF-128AB/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pAa4DbW1T7EGY and I have to unplug and plug it back in every 2 or 3 days

I was referring to this model: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B013CCTNKU, which now appears to be the previous-generation... I have not tried the newer ones.

Don't use USB2.0. It will work, but it will be very slow. USB3.0 or USB3.1 are good.

Yes you can copy from one USB to another. There are a few ways to do it, with different pros and cons.. I'd use dd, but there's probably a friendlier tool if that doesn't fit your tastes. :)

This is definitely the best. It has great speed, great compatibility, and doesn't overheat like that SanDisk drive.

Sorry for the late reply - work.

Bleemsync 1.1 with OTG capability added using USB loaded directly into controller port 2.

I use this USB:

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Plug USB into PC and format into FAT32, name it SONY. Move Bleemsync files to USB. Unplug, plug into UNPLUGGED PSC controller port 2. Plug in PSC and allow it to update the console. It will backup the console details and update kernel data. Once done, unplug PSC, remove USB and plug into PC again. SAVE ALL OF THIS SOMEWHERE, MULTIPLE PLACES. Move 1 specific file over to USB, plug back into port 2 on unplugged PSC, plug in PSC, allow it to update. When it shuts down in like 60 seconds it’s all done.

The above takes all of like 10 minutes for this entire process. Then you can plug your USB into this:

AuviPal 2-in-1 Micro USB Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY9Z9GD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

No power mod required. Just a pass through.

I deleted Bleemsync after and added Autobleem 0.6b3 which now includes Retroarch, now I boot into Autobleem directly.

https://i.imgur.com/NKU13TY.jpg


This is probably the “best” tutorial. If you need help, let me know.

https://youtu.be/uyy7HRNHVz4

Finally, here’s the (current) setup, it’ll change I’m sure (don’t mind the yelling kid in the background or the potato quality, I’m no streamer...)

https://youtu.be/cllOdquuKR0

Cloud storage should be perfectly fine if you're encrypting your data - there are many free and open source solutions to facilitate encryption which will protect data against intrusion (i.e. your PC's operating system would be a more likely vector for data breach than an encrypted file with a long password on private cloud storage space).

That being said, you should be using encryption on your data with any storage solution (if you aren't already).

If you have less than 256GB of data, you should be able to get away with an external SSD or USB flash drive (recommend keeping at least two separate, encrypted drives in two separate physical locations to guard against theft/fire/etc) so you're probably not looking at spending too much to ensure security and business continuity.

I've had a Samsung BAR 128 on my keychain for three years. Works great. Write speeds can be a little erratic but usually 30-60 mb/s. Much faster than any other inexpensive flash drives I've owned.

They've since updated it with the Bar Plus with USB 3.1. It looks like the write speeds are down to less than 40 now from people who've tested it. Reads are still crazy fast.

At 22 bucks for 128 and all metal waterproof shockproof design it's a decent option. There's probably stuff with better write speeds, but you're going to have to get that M.2 enclosure setup for anything really really good.

Or use a password manager (I like Keepass over cloud solutions so I can control it).

Plop it on a thumb drive, stick the thumb drive on your key ring (this Kingston model is perfect for me), and blam. You can have ultra secure passwords that you can easily access.

The only really problems to this solution that I've found over years of doing it are that:

1. You should keep a backup of your thumb drive in case it becomes damaged or lost. You should be doing this anyway.... Here's a good xcopy command for Windows command line which will quickly do this: xcopy THUMBDRIVELETTER:\ HARDDRIVELETTER:\usbbackup /E /C /Q /Y Or you could just copy and paste.
   
2. If you're switching between OSs (I use Windows at home and Mac at work) then research the compatibility.
   
   Otherwise it's a lovely solution for me.
   
   I avoid cloud solutions like LastPass because I don't like my info living on the cloud where ne'er do wells can hack it. And avoid using dropbox to sync this program for the same reason.
   
   The likelihood that the person who finds my lost thumb drive is interested in cracking my password database is slim to zero. If you really wanted higher security then place the program on a TrueCrypt volume on the thumb drive.

I use these. Fucking. Amazing. Sits almost flush and I have 40+ gigs (a 32gb and a 16gb). They would be PERFECT for your xbox as well, Buy 2 - $40 - extra 64 gb of HDD space. You put all your music in folders I just name the folder the CD or artist. I can then search by spelling. Technology is amazing.

Congrats on getting the car! I'm in Canada so I thought I would post some of what I bought.
 
Here’s some of the bits I bought and I noticed I got a lot different items than most people got here

I want a console wrap but haven't pulled a trigger yet
 
Floor mats
https://www.partsengine.ca/u-guard-3d-kagu-maxpider-floor-mat-in-black-p-54811.aspx
apparently Costco and 1010tires carry them but I got them from there
 
The trunk mat from tesla is nice.. I got that as well
https://shop.tesla.com/us/en/product/vehicle-accessories/model-3-all-weather-cargo-mats.html
 
there’s two usb ports up front. I unplugged one of them and put a usb drive in and it records the dashcam, and also records out of the various cameras while it’s in Sentry Mode
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07857Y17V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
I got that one because it’s super slim. Just make a folder on the drive called TeslaCam and then put it in the car and it knows to do the rest..
 
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07FL5PPCK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the lights in the trunk are SO dim they are useless. I got these. They pop out and the cable is just a clip so really easy to install and these are so much brighter and cheap. Worth the upgrade
 
amazon.com items
little mats that go in the cup holders
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KWYMQ8D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
makes it easier to clean when milk gets spilled in there
 
no tire place will work on your car without these little plastic protector pucks. They go under the car on the jack lift points, then they will lift the car up. I had to order these for when I got my tires changed and I leave them in the car.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K12932T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks. For anyone interested, this seems to have best speeds for usb flash (obviously external SSD is fastest if they work too): SanDisk Extreme PRO CZ88 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive Speeds Up To 260MB/s

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HR7FWUC

Or even faster updated usb 3.1 version i just saw https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MU8TZRV/

The smaller flash drives seem to be just microSD card housings and so top out well under 100 MB/s write speed, a bit slow for copying 1440p/4K 60fps content.

Also went with a 128GB Samsung Evo Select SD card, much better write speeds than the Samsung Evo+ in the $99 immersive preorder promo.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XWZWYVP/

Actually a pretty good article. My normal USB carry for IT work:

• 128gb USB3 on my keyring: I primarily use my laptop with windows 10 at work, but we also have desktop PC's with multimonitor setups. I decided to install kubuntu on my USB, so i can use the desktop PC's on a secure account. Now i don't have to worry about my password manager/firefox account being tied into our work computer, where admins have access. It's also nice to have an encrypted filesystem on my person at all times with 100+ gb of freespace.
  
  I also keep 7 USB keys in my backpack. You can get usb2.0 keys for extremely cheap these days, and usb3 prices are almost equally as low.
  
  
• Centos7 installer: use this on a weekly basis for work
  
• Windows 2012 standard installer: used at least once a month
  
• partedmagic: great tool for troubleshooting troublesome computers, or working on weird partitioning issues
  
• bootable dos disk: A must have tool for updating firmware, or setting up supermicro IPMI
  
• blank USB's for easily transferring installers/files, or making bootable disks. Can never have too many of these!

If you're fine with giving up the two bays to raid up some OS drives, I'd agree that's 'safer' since they'd be mirrored. That said, I've run VMWare on my 610's for years from a thumb drive without issue. Worst case is that you'd have to re-install ESXi on a fresh USB drive and import your VM's, but you could keep a backup USB drive with ESXi installed to help mitigate downtime.

FYI I like to use these drives since they don't stick out far so no chance of them getting snapped off or whatever.

My old, reliable 4GB PNY Attaché USB 2.0 flash drive is 100 MB too small for the Windows 10 Technical Preview x64 install iso to be written to it fully with the Novicorp WinToFlash program I use. I like to dual/multi-boot, and I figure it's time to come into the USB 3.0 world with a new bootable flash drive so I can install operating systems with it.

However, it appears that most newer flash drives are "fixed" drives, meaning that I can't boot from them. My motherboard has USB 3.0 ports and also supports booting from USB 3.0 drives, so there's not a problem other than finding a flash drive from which I can boot to install operating systems.

I was looking at this Sandisk Extreme 64GB flash drive, and found this comment on it, which deterred me from purchasing it. As it turns out, the vast majority of recent drives are exactly the same way. I already have an SSD, so I don't need a fixed drive, I need a removable one.

Does anyone know of a specific bootable USB 3.0 drive with 32-64GB of space and read speeds over 100MB/s, preferably closer to the linked drive's 245MB/s? Write speed isn't as much of a consequence, as it'll only be written to when I change operating systems. 190 MB/s write speed like the SanDisk one would be great, though.

Thank you.

I bought the 32gb version of this usb for my Dashcam, but it worked for about a day and hasn't worked since. I know others have had success with the 128gb version but just wanted to check before I bought, and to see if people have had better luck with others.

I definitely love the bluetooth features for music. Driving an '03, of course this wasn't an option but when I replaced the deck with an aftermarket one I absolutely love the option of bluetooth / USB drive / AUX port.

I bought this tiny flash drive that's smaller than my thumb nail and play off that primarily.

I did in a previous car, but now I have entune in my Prius C 3, so I have my phone plugged in to the USB to charge and stream pandora.

If you want to go USB route it works great, and I recommend the tiny Sandisk Cruzer Fit, they barely stick out an have been very reliable for me.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00812F7O8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1369916377&sr=8-3&pi=SL75

Based on the feedback so far, I'm leaning toward the Sandisk Ultra Fit.

In order of importance, my decision factors...

• The small form factor will reduce the chance of me hitting it accidentally and possibly breaking the port.
  
  
• It is fairly cheap at $19 for 64GB version. This allows me to store at least 1 day of video and reduce the number of re-writes.
  
  
• The write-speed is not a factor, but USB 3.0 should be more future proof if Tesla changes the system, or if i re-purpose the drive to another task. If you want the older version with 2.0, it is even less expensive.
  
  
• Endurance doesn't seem to be a popular concern, so ignoring it for now. I am slightly concerned with operating temperature [32°F to 113°F (0°C to 45°C)] and storage temp [14°F to 158°F (-10°C to 70°C)], but we'll see how it goes this winter. Those more further north than me can report in if they have success or failure.
  
  
• I also ignored the WiFi capability because if i need to unplug the device, there is no reason to use it. I'm still curious if SD based cards like the Toshiba Flash Air W-04 would have a different behavior. I bought one for my digital camera, so i'll give it a try in the Tesla too. The cost is significantly higher, but if i can access dash cam videos from my cell phone and before getting home and without unplugging, that would be a big plus. (also need to find the right SD to USB adapter.)
  
  Thanks for helping me think it out.

Agreed, I've used USB 3.0 drives capable of "Read Up To 245MB/s; Write Up To 190MB/s" (SanDisk CZ80) with my Nextcloud setup and the biggest limitation has been the USB 2.0 bus shared with the Ethernet controller. Best throughput I've gotten is around 15-20MB/s (megabytes per second).

I'm wondering if there is any benefit to doing this RAID locally (vs. creating a remote mirror periodically updated via a rsync cron job).

SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive, or similar, if you have a USB 3.0 connection; SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 64GB USB 2.0, or similar, if not. Easy to leave in place without worrying about destroying the drive or port. I've had good experience with the SanDisk line of micro USB thumb-drives. I have one plugged in to my dash in the truck, another in a portable radio, and a third in a netbook. No issues. I use them to hold music mainly; but video, documents, pics, etc do just fine for storage/retrieval. You could go with portable HDD if you need a ton more room, they work for the same application(s) you just cannot plug it in and forget the way you can the micro thumb-drives.

You could get away with the same application on an SD card, though for video you will want to check and see what SD bus speed your rig supports. The latest, UHS II, has throughput comparable to USB 3.0 thumbdrives/HDDs.

If you are thinking of trying to load games on an external device you will want to look at external SSD's. They have the best throughput based on your available connection type (3.0, C, Thunderbolt). USB 3.0 SSD's have about 4x the transfer rate of 3.0 HDDs. They are rather pricey though.

Yeah. These are the ones I meant though there are a couple others from different manufacturers that could also work.

Kingston Digital 64GB Data Traveler Micro Duo USB 3C Flash Drive (DTDUO3C/64GB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010HWCFDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fkqgyb7PA3BVW

Taipove USB3.0 Type-C3.1 High-Speed Transmission USB Flash Drive For Apple's Macbook,Google's Chromebook Pixel, Nokia N1 Tablet Etc (Type-C&USB3.0 Silver32G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G6NXAQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ylqgybRBXASF0


Verbatim 64GB Store 'n' Go Dual USB Flash Drive for USB-C Devices, Blue (99155) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BY4MH06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BqqgybZC1XNHQ


EAGET CU10 USB 3.0 + Type-C 3.1 OTG Flash Drive, Smartphone Pen Drive U Disk for Macbook, OnePlus 2, Google Nexus 5x 6p, Other Cell Phones and Tablet, Water Proof, Shock Resistant, Compact Size-16GB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HG371S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3qqgybC8J2NCK



It seems like you could just dremel off the USB A section as the storage seems to be located between the USB c and USB a plugs. I'm hoping someone comes out with the super micro drives without USB a soon. Like the ones from Samsung and Sandisk that are literally just the USB a plug and a piece of plastic. (Like this Samsung 128GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive Fit (MUF-128BB/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RoqgybW2XM2WX)


I imagine most of them currently have USB a plugs because USB c isn't as prevalent and for transferring files having an a plug on the opposite end is convenient. Sony also makes one (Sony 64GB USB Flash Drive for Type-C Smartphone and Tablets (USM64CA1/S) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZC3NNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qsqgybRT924GM) that is kinda small that fits into an adapter for USB a so the drive itself is USB c only but it's still about as big as the ones I linked with USB a plugs built in.


The taipove one, the second linked one, will probably work the best as it's completely flat around the USB c connector where as the Kingston and verbatim have a slight rise before the USB c plug.

I actually think your best bet would be an USB drive. They offer faster speeds at the same (or less) cost. If you think Samsung works best with Samsung products, I recommend you this paired up with this adapter

Why is it better? The SD card gives you 95MB/s (Lots of Android apps can't be sent to your SD Card (without rooting) because they are really slow, imagine that using an OS such as Ubuntu/Debian) and 128GB for $81.38. The USB drive + adapter gives you 128GB, 150MB/s and an adapter for other things other than your drive for $49.94.

If you think losing an USB slot is just too much, you can always buy this hub instead of the adapter. Total: $57.94

I was speaking to wikipedia sans images, but here's one on amazon for $13.

..although personally I like the sandisk fit USBs.. $30 for 128gb (but wait for a better deal..it's only a matter of time)

Can someone please recommend a usb stick for sentry mode in a model 3? I purchased this one from amazon but it doesnt give me the option to format it in fat32 as it says its too large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DH3NOW/ref=twister_B0148N153A?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

​

Can someone please point me in the direction of a USB drive that is working well for them. I am using a mac if it matters. Thanks

I modified my setup a bit, to accodomodate feedback from other people and to see what works best for me

Somebody suggest to use this knife:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's my new setup:

RIGHT FRONT POCKET

Any dynomighty wallet, just pick a design

https://www.dynomighty.com/categories/

Car keys (whatever your carkeys are). If you want a USB stick added on to your keys, use a Micro-HDMI for low profile and convenience

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBGYGPG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LEFT FRONT POCKET

Iphone6, Samsung S6, etc etc. Whatever floats your boat

Pick a small battery charger, search for it on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=portable+battery+charger&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Aportable+battery+charger

Get a retractable cable for your charger if you need too (low profile)

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Gold-Plated-Retractable-Micro-USB/dp/B00SVVY844/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558782&sr=8-4&keywords=USB+retractable+cable

JEAN COIN POCKET (on front right pocket)

That gerber fold up knife https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016KHW2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RIGHT MOST JEAN STRAP ( was the front right before)

Carbiner

https://www.amazon.com/LeBeila-Carabiner-Aluminum-Locking-Keychain/dp/B013NNG18U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558280&sr=8-1&keywords=carabiner

duck tape

Tape planet had the cheapest prices at $1.54 each

http://www.tapeplanet.com/Mini-Rainbow-Duck-Tape-Duckling-p/stdtpl-282322.htm

BACK LEFT POCKET

Measuring tape. This one has the lowest profile so it doesn't hurt to sit on, 10' is good enough for almost everything

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474558504&sr=8-7&keywords=measuring+tape

BACK RIGHT POCKET

Get sticky notes, I suggest highland brand 3"x3" since it works for nearly everything you might need sticky notes. I suggest getting both, alternate colors by day

Plain yellow:

https://www.amazon.com/Post--Markers-Assorted-Bright-670-10AB/dp/B007QFATEO/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558871&sr=1-6&keywords=sticky+notes

Color:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OCPJK0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, get a sharpie too. Fine points are good

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Point-Black/dp/B00006IFHD/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1474558955&sr=1-1&keywords=sharpie

Alternatively or ultra fine

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-37001WM-Permanent-Marker-12-Pack/dp/B00006IFI3/ref=pd_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=08FBBP33PZV82ZY7AT41


--------------

that's my current setup

I have this 128gb samsung 3.0
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505020844&sr=8-4&keywords=samsung+128gb

the curve of the stick fits PERFECTLY the GPD Win... just wish it would be black
here's a photo of my GPD Win with the samsung key
http://i.imgur.com/dguvhfb.jpg

definitely get yourself one I'd recommend target using the cartwheel deal from their app so you only end up paying 25 bucks mod it as for a USB that works I can guarantee this one SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 64GB USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FJRS6QY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_shareworks I've been using it since day one of modding my ps classic and if you want a 2 player experience you can even mod it to support OTG I've installed over 100 games and testing them including dino crisis 1 and 2, parasite Eve 1 they run great. for price it's at right now you can't go wrong with a PS classic

> I'm really trying to make the right decision when I move to Ubuntu 16.04 and ZFS is high on my list of decisions to make

Typing this on my Ubuntu 16.04 laptop right now running root ZFS :-)

For your root pool, there's really one correct decision to make: single drive, mirrored drive, or triple-mirrored drive? While you can install ZFS root to a RAIDz, there are many good reasons (too many to list today; I'm short on time) to not do so for your rpool.

I've lost the last two weekends playing with ZFS on root Ubuntu 16.04, and I am also on the architecture team that orchestrates & troubleshoots the world's largest farm of several thousand Oracle ZFS Storage Appliances. So hopefully that makes me slightly qualified to answer :-)

One of my favorite hidden gems of ZFS is "zfs set compression=lz4 (or on older pools, "lzjb")". In general, this dramatically speeds up reading and writing for most mixed-data zpools. By setting this on your "root" Ubuntu pool, you can use just a pair of cheap, tiny 8GB to 16GB USB memory sticks for your root pool, and you'll see the typical install size shrink by a factor of well over 2:1 without any noticeable CPU overhead (my root zpool usually requires around 8GB, excluding /home but including /var; it shrinks to around 2.5GB with lz4). If you set "atime=off" as well, this reduces writes to the device and often increases IOPS. Finally, "set xattr=sa" stores metadata about the block in the dnode instead of separately on disk, reducing IOPS further and accelerating access in a safe way.

Heck, if you're concerned about running out of space in your root zpool, install two 64GB USB sticks instead. You're out twenty bucks a stick, and these new tiny ones are very unlikely to catch and break on anything.

For the rest of your drives, it really depends upon your use case. If you plan to do large media storage and you're the only person using the array, RAIDz is probably just fine for the rest of the drives. Using a small, fast SSD as "SLOG" (Separate Log) will often make write performance a non-issue on a lightly-used RAIDz spindle-based array.

If you're using drives 3TB or larger -- particularly at 5400RPM! -- RAIDz resilver times become dangerously long. Around that point, if you're going to stick with RAIDz I usually suggest RAIDz2 for safety during resilvers.

All that said, I strongly prefer mirrors for all my zpools today on spindles. Read IOPS are identical to a stripe, writes are half that of a stripe, and resilver times are dramatically faster for mirror than RAIDz. Conversely, a RAIDz2 6-drive array boasts capacity only 17% larger than that of a mirror (when compared to the striped size), has 6x worse read IOPS and 3x worse write IOPS than a mirror. However, a RAIDz array offers at least twice the read throughput or mirror, which is important for single-writer cases like media storage and video editing where IOPS aren't really a concern.

Hope that helps!

Disclaimer: I'm an Oracle employee; my opinions do not necessarily represent those of Oracle or its affiliates.

Very easy.

You can find a pre made build online and just copy it to a flash drive and it’s good to go. As long as the drive is plugged in, the hack works. Power off the system and unplug the drive and it’s back to stock.

———

Here’s what I can confirm works flawlessly with my PlayStation Classic

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vnIhDbF1WEZNK

Plugable USB 2.0 2-Port High Speed Ultra Compact Hub/Splitter (480 Mbit/s, USB 2.0 Windows, Linux, OS X, Chrome OS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7nIhDbXBKWQ2S

I’m pretty sure I can’t link directly to the site with the pre made build, but arcadepunks dot com and look around. Copy that build onto a drive and you’re good to go.

I would recommend against an SD card since that will be fairly slow. A small USB 3 flash drive would work much better, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hl24Bb7AKZ6AG

I use it and it works great.

Get a 128GB or larger Samsung FIT drive. Works perfectly and has worked for me since day 1. As an added bonus, it's practically invisible.

This one is rated at 150MB/s read and about 60MB/s write. If you want something faster, the Sandisk Extreme USB is also on flash sale for $16.75. The Extreme is rated for 245MB/s read and about 100MB/s write. I have the Extreme (and in fact just ordered another one with this sale) and it is noticeably faster than any of my other USB3 flash drives. The rated read and write speeds are legit, and it works great especially when I'm copying large virtual image files. Can't speak for the OP but it does seem like a good drive for this price is your needs aren't as... extreme.

Edit: Amazon link to Sandisk Extreme https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KT7DXIU

in that case maybe try installing it to high capacity jump drives. They are cheaper than doing it from hard drives and are gunna be faster/more durable as well as more portable since youre using them with your laptop and linux is super easy to install to a usb

Since youre just playing around with linux and not using it as a daily driver you probably wont need more than 128 gb

$18.99 128gb USB 2

Metal USB 2.0 Flash Drive 128GB Silver (H01128) - Keychain Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CNMB8H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0gWWzbDDZG2DC

$33.39 128gb USB 3

SanDisk Ultra Flair USB 3.0 128GB Flash Drive High Performance up to 150MB/s (SDCZ73-128G-G46) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015CH1PJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_imXWzbFQYA7HW

$18.99 64gb USB 3

SanDisk Ultra Fit 64GB USB 3.0 Flash Drive (SDCZ43-064G-GAM46) [Newest Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG3JA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LoXWzb48GHMEM

$52.25 256gb USB 3

SanDisk Cruzer Glide 3.0 256GB USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JHLJBO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uqXWzb1NQGSX7


If you have a usb 3 port i'd definately go with a usb 3 drive either way you should be getting same/better results using the jumpdrive compared to a external hdd/ssd

I usually create a USB stick with Linux Live USB Creator (http://www.linuxliveusb.com/). I download the ISO for Linux Mint 15 with the Cinnamon Desktop (http://www.linuxmint.com/download.php). I use a 32 Gig Sandisk Cruzer Fit (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00812F7O8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER). It's only $20.49 on Amazon. I create the normal 4 gig persistence file using the Linux Live Creator, but then follow these instructions to utilize the full 32 gigs for persistence (http://www.pendrivelinux.com/create-a-larger-than-4gb-casper-partition/). The instructions are for Ubuntu, but Linux Mint is Ubuntu based, so it works fine. After than, I install any apps I use like Chrome, etc. I have run into problems before doing updates to applications. As long as you don't do updates to your apps via the software center, you should be fine. You shouldn't run updates in persistence mode. The risk (of corrupting your drive) isn't worth the reward usually. Good luck!

I would suggest not doing what you are asking.

Keep the SD card you have. Get a USB drive. They're half as much, and you can add on to the space you already have.

Here is one that is ~$28. Compared to ~$55 micro SD Card..

If you keep your current card and get a USB, you would have about 160 GB of space combined. It will also save you $20.

In my personal experience, I went from a 32 GB card that was supported and worked great, to one step up to a 64 GB (same model, just a larger size). For whatever reason the card can't read continuously, which causes pausing while browsing and stuttering during PS1 movie intros. I ordered two of them, and both have the same issues. I did lots of testing, Pi 2 and Pi 3, 2 different 32 GB cards and 2 different 64 GB cards. The 64 GB cards just had issues with reading and occasionally writing. There were never errors, or bad writes, just delays which can cause pausing. Putting the PS1 games on a USB drive solved that.

Edit: If you're using all the ports on the Pi, then upgrading the card might be less of a headache.

I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.

My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.

*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**

• 2012 Nexus 7 - 1st gen
  
• Timur's USB ROM - in FI mode
  
• Typical Apps...
  
  
• Joycon CPJexr(CarPc Joycon Exr), converts steering wheel input into Keyboard strokes recognizable by the tablet. LINK
  
• Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 - 300watt amp with Molex input/output LINK
  
• USB Dual 80mm Fans with protective grill - LINK
  
• 3.5mm inline to RCA (dual channel) - LINK
  
• FiiO E10 USB DAC LINK
  
• Amazon USB hubs, cheap and easy to hack into - LINK
  
• Monoprice USB Extension Cables - LINK
  
• SanDisk Cruzer Fit 32GB - Stores Music - LINK
  
• Monoprice Micro USB OTG Adapter - LINK
  
• USB Y-Power adapter
  
• JDM 2-tone AV panel
  
• 12v to 5v DC/DC converters (You will need a couple of these, as they are from China they might be DoA)
  
• Other various adapters, and 14 ga wire for all of this to work..
  
  I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
  
  
• [OD] - 4" x 7" x 5.75"
  
• [x 1] - 4" x 7"
  
• [x 2] - 6.5" x 5.5"
  
• [x 2] - 4" x 5.5"
  
  Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
  
  
  
  
  

/u/IcouldFuckAnOyster is being a dick about it, but they're right. I honestly could care less what it looks like, as long as it fits as discreetly as this. The thing you posted wouldn't work for that.

I bought this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FJRS6QY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and it works amazing. It's more than enough storage for some movies/tv shows and music (if I'm not around wifi)
I've got an Acer C720 (i3 and 4GB of RAM) and the Acer Chromebook 13 (Tegra K1 and 4gigs of RAM) and it's awesome. It's slim enough to easily slip into the sleeves I have and not protrude enough to be caught on anything.

ehh besides boot time... lol though if you wanted to run windows from usb then these bad boys work wonderful.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-Flash-Drive-SDCZ80-064G-GAM46/dp/B00KT7DOSE/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511308535&sr=1-2&keywords=sandisk+extreme

is used like a SSD on USB very nice to have. full UEFI support.

<3 the "gent's" folder. However, if you ever feel the need to upgrade, let me introduce you to what's next on my list: Chris Reeve's Mnandi

/drool

Something else you may or may not be interested in: Kingston Datatravler. I love mine (small, metal, sturdy, fits on keychain).

Glad to see a girl carrying useful tools instead of just makeup/mirror!

OTG dongles are your friend if you want expandable storage (especially when taking RAW photos and 4K video, etc.). Look on Amazon for OTG MicroSD or OTG storage. They utilize the charging port for storage so it's only good when you want to move files and not a permanent solution like an actual MicroSD slot.

A good one: http://www.amazon.com/Dash-Micro-MicroSD-Android-USB-MicroUSB/dp/B00R0ZAMTM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451295911&sr=8-1&keywords=otg+microsd

or

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-connector-Android-Devices--SDDD2-064G-G46/dp/B00RBGYGPG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451296005&sr=8-1&keywords=otg+sandisk

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FJRS6QY?cache=51ae21a0c77336c0f17db3dbbcf43d6f&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1407798206&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

That's probably as close as you're going to get. Chances are its impossible to find exactly what youre looking for because USB ports are more valuable on a laptop than not having having to replace your HDD/ssd for additional space.

If you're feeling brave enough, you can try and make your own out of one of those, but it probably won't be easy.

BTW I'd love to see what you're talking about with regards to the microsd gizmo that fits in the wider half of the USB slot.

Sure!

The best way, in my opinion, is to pick up an inexpensive and small USB thumb drive (as opposed to using a phone or ipod) and simply load it up with .wma or .mp3 files. Those are the only two I know for certain it will support.

The advantages to this method are that it is cheap, it minimizes wires and devices in the vehicle, and USB flash drives are extremely hardy devices that can be left in the car year round.

While the car is off plug in the flash drive. After the flash drive is inserted, turn the car on and keep pressing the Source button on the steering wheel until the USB icon is shown on the iMID. The music should begin playing automatically.

The following is primarily intended towards vehicles equipped with the factory navigation & premium audio system and requires a fundamental understanding of Windows/Mac/Linux:
You can organize the folders, subfolders and the songs in the folders however you like, but the directory sorting on the Civic's audio system can be a bit unusual.
For example, if you put 3 files or folders on the drive named B, C and D and plug it into the Civic they will show up as B, C, and D in that order. However, if you later add a file or folder on the flash drive named A and plug it back into the Civic, you will see the files/folders sorted as B, C, D, A. This becomes problematic when you have a few hundred songs or folders and want a specific track. There is a program you can download to rewrite the directory structure on the flash drive and have them be re-sorted alphabetically but its far easier to simply put them on the Flash drive in alphabetical order in the first place. If you mass copy several hundred folders from your PC/Mac to the Flash drive it should, by default, copy them in alphabetical order preventing you from having to manually copy it all over and still have the nav screen sort the folders and/or tracks alphabetically.

The Samsung Fit Drive doesn't get hot unless it's under heavy load, unlike the other options in the same form factor. Micro SD cards are another matter though. Like others have said, the one on the WIN reads slowly, and goes to sleep when it doesn't think it's being used, so you'll want to use a program that keeps it awake if you want to store games on it or something. It will decrease your card's lifetime a little though.

I guess some people don't have the storage for it? Or they want the assurance that they still have their games without hassle of re-claiming their account if something happens to their system? Some people also have slow internet.

For me, storage isn't an issue. I have a physically tiny 128gb flash drive inserted in my Wii U, which gives me plenty of storage.. and it wasn't exactly expensive, check the link to see.

Not only should it likely load faster from that than a disk, because it's essentially Solid State, but I don't have to wait for a shop to open up to pick up a physical copy, nor wait for the ridiculously slow delivery services in my area to bring me my package sometime in the late afternoon or evening. With any luck, I should be able to play Friday morning, unless the download servers are simply too bogged down.. that's why I'm kinda hoping for a pre-load.

I have an Acer 14 and I love it, good choice on that one. There really isn't that much advice to give, but for your external drive, I'd recommend one of these. It makes it easy to just keep in in the laptop 100% of the time without being annoying. And I did buy a mouse for my Chromebook, but I never use it because I found it to more of a hassle than it was worth, since you'd have this nice sleek laptop, and it would be really annoying to carry around a mouse with it.

I've reviewed the Known Issues page with USB sticks. Below is an amazon link to the USB I bought. Any additional known issues with this stick? Unfortunately I only have 2 sticks over 8 GB. I have 4 or 5 laying around that are 4 GB so won't be able to test again in awhile. Was really excited too! Will try another laptop later this week and see if I still run into issues. Thanks again for the help.

​

​

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-METAL-MUF-128BA-AM/dp/B017DH3NOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549574975&sr=8-2&keywords=samsung+128+gb

I'm pretty sure as long as you let them dry out water won't hurt flash drives too bad. I know I've sent mind through the wash on more than one occasion and it still works just fine. Just get one that's more "open" and doesn't have everything enclosed in a plastic case that will let water in and trap it there if you're really worried about it. Just getting caught in the rain pretty much anything should be fine though.

This is the one I've sent through the wash on at least two occasions. I've since replaced it with one of these because the case and keychain part didn't hold up well being in my pocket although the drive itself is still perfectly fine.

Does it need to be USB 3.0? You said you'd like it to be discrete and extra small flash drives, in general, are slower. They often will not break USB 2.0 speeds of about 48MBp/s. e.g. Sandisk Cruzr Fit is one of the smallest flash drives I know of and dismissing it for being USB2.0 is senseless because it wont reach write/read speeds that fast. I don't know how reliable that hook will be for keychain use though.

The Sandisk Extreme on the other hand has a sturdy keychain hook, and would actually utilize USB 3.0 speeds. I'm also a fan of the Kingston Ultimate G3 when it comes to read/write speeds for cheap. However, neither are terribly small or discrete.

I think the Patriot Rage XT that scapermoya linked would be your best compromise between discreteness and speed.

I use this flash drive in my Tundra and it works great. It easily holds all of my music and it's SUPER tiny. However, when Windows recognizes it you only have two options to format it in, exFAT and NTFS. Neither of these work with the Tundra's Entune system.

Here's the fix

Click on the picture to download the program, then format your USB drive to FAT32 using that program and bam, it should now work with Entune.

Keep in mind there are some pretty stupid restraints on file names, number of folders, etc. so it's best to just dump your music in there and let the Entune system detect the tags and sort it itself.

Same issue here.

I had this SanDisk since April.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG41W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was only using the dashcam and that seemed to work well. Then, I decided to start using the Sentry mode and after the latest update saw this same error.

So, I did a bit of research and found this solid state flash drive with a tested ~260MB/s write speed.
https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/5-of-the-fastest-usb-3-0-flash-drives-you-should-buy/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU8TZRV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, I decided to order this to see how it works. It also has good reviews, so I have some confidence.

http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-DataTraveler-DTSE9H-32GBZET/dp/B00DYQYJ0E/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409143126&sr=1-2&keywords=kingston+flash+drive+32gb

I recently bought one of these, and it is super small. As you can see the body is barely wider than the usb port itself, and nothing is protruding.

Also, its super cheap if you only need usb 2.0. $12 for 32gb. Its also a #1 seller on Amazon.

You'd be surprised at how inexpensive a lot of USB's are. I have around 7 of these guys laying around. For the price and storage capactiy it's a nice middle ground but I get ya.

I would say for now this works though, but in the future you can work up to the 3-2-1 rule and you'd be fine. Honestly most times you will use your first backup and it will work but with viruses and the sort nowadays it's easy for a lot of images to get corrupted which sucks!

It's funny, my droid buddies constantly razzed me about having an iPhone with no removable battery or external memory card slot, then I picked up a Note 5 for my Gear VR & discovered that it has neither :p I had to spring for the 64-gig model to make sure that I had enough storage to not get bit when downloading a bunch of apps & content.

Does anyone know if the Gear VR's bottom Micro-USB charging port allows for data pass-through? They make flash drives with Micro-USB plugs on them for pretty cheap these days. 64 gigs is like $20 on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-connector-Android-Devices--SDDD2-064G-G46/dp/B00RBGYGPG/

Anything over 32gb might be overkill and will require 3rd party tools to format in FAT32. Release notes state the cam uses 1.8gb per hour of video. I got this one and it seems to work great: SanDisk Ultra Fit 32GB USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGTG41W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If you carry keys, get yourself a Kingston flash drive. This thing is awesome. Combine it with a Flat Gate Clip and you have win.

Sounds like 64GB is the safer option - you never know what you'll start accumulating.

However, just to toss this out there: I have a 32GB, and keep a small music library (for poweramp) plus movies and other videos on a USB-C OTG flash drive. I just plug it in and access it via ES File Explorer. Swap out music, play a movie right from the drive, etc.

I have a separate OTG drive that I use for TWRP backups. I mount the USB storage in TWRP, do a backup, un-mount, done.

If that sounds like an option for you, these are the drives I bought: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-64GB-Traveler-DTDUO3C/dp/B010HWCFDA

No friends or relatives that might have a drive you can temporarily borrow?

16GB drives are available for ~£6 on Amazon UK, or ~$7 on Amazon US. Most supermarkets carry them these days as well so you may find an 8GB for less.

You can also burn a DVD using the media creation tool if that's an option for you, but a USB drive will serve other purposes like handy document backup and file transfer in future as well.

Bellroy Note Sleeve

Zebralight SC63w

Burt's Bees Vanilla Bean

Benchmade 940-1 w/ gray deep carry clip

NiteCore Tube

2015 WRX keys, house key, safe key, and shop key

Black Diamond Platinum Carabiner

Redwing Boots 606

I do not carry a flash drive but I do recommend this one..

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KT7DOSE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Checkout.. /r/flashlight for further suggestions on a small light.. but make sure that you fill out the form so people can steer you the right way!

SATA To USB Converters run over the USB protocoll. USB 3.0 is an immensly powerful protocoll and i don't think any thumb drive will really be throttled by usb 3.0.

But in addition to the USB protocoll, a flashdrive also needs good memory modules to get good speeds. most flash drives seem to be stuck at ~100-150mb/s. But there are faster options. I got a SanDisk extreme that gets around 200-250mb/s. There are even faster ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-SDCZ880-128G-G46-Extreme-128GB-Solid/dp/B01MU8TZRV/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=sandisk+extreme+usb&qid=1556859955&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Most of the time, those flash drives are a bit more pricey.

this is one of the best key-chain USB drives I've found. All metal, nothing to break.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQYJ0E/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven't paid to cut my hair in over 15 years. All I need is a decent set of clippers and these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AYY1SQW/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I check how the back looks by taking pictures in a mirror or having a friend do the final trim in the back with a razor.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-DataTraveler-Micro-Flash-Drive/dp/B010HWCFDA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480206691&sr=8-3&keywords=usb%2Bc%2Ba%2Bflash%2Bdrive&th=1

getting a flash drive like this will be useful, also a good deal on this one on amazon uk currently

I haven't done any precise benchmarks etc but it seems perfectly fine to me. I use this one : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013CCTJKE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Crouton works with external drives, although I'd recommend a low-profile USB 3 flash drive (eg, Samsung, Sandisk) over an SD card. I found Crouton from an SD card to be painfully slow any time something had to do much I/O like program updates.

I haven't tried an XBox 360 controller, but my DS4 works plugged in without any extra software. I would guess that it will work fine.

The i3, in addition to being a faster CPU, has twice the EUs in its iGPU compared to the Celeron and they're clocked ~15% higher. Probably won't make a difference it what you're playing, but if you want to try running more graphically-demanding games it would be useful.

USB 3.0 SSDs like this

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-T3-Portable-SSD-MU-PT1T0B/dp/B01AVF6UO8/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

are fine.

Only USB Flash drives and SD cards like the ones below should not be used even though they are capable.

USB Flash Drives:

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Frustration-Free-Packaging--SDCZ36-032G-AFFP/dp/B007JR532M/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474590391&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+flash

SD Card:

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-SD-Card-Class-Adapter/dp/B01CM6TSE8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474590413&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=sd+card&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Memory-Frustration-Free-Packaging--SDSDB-032G-AFFP/dp/B007JRB0RE/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474590413&sr=1-3&keywords=sd+card

I very much second the USB drive, I use this one (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A) and is possibly the best thing for this computer.

The 32 gigs the 14 has is more forgiving than other chromebooks' 16 so you dont need to worry as much about slimming the install. Programs and such wont take up a whole lot of space so you shouldnt need to try to put them on the USB.

Yes sir. Plug and play. Samsung slim thumb drive
On amazing. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D7PDLXC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

>most people should do to protect their information

Never give out any information that you would never want public to anyone online anywhere. If it's in a private email, assume you're posting it to a public site like Reddit. Never send sensitive information to anyone for any reason, even if they ask for it, and you will never worry about being compromised by scam or phishing. The easiest way to break into a network during a pentest is to simply embed a payload into a PDF file, and email it. The PDF attachment and email appear to be a legitimate invoice that is past due, prompting you to open it out of panic. Of course, once opened you've compromised your machine and given me a foothold into your network. Another common way I get people is to click a link via IM. Skype resolves SMB links, which sends your windows password in the form of an NTLM hash. I just need that hash. I don't even need to break it. You click that link, and you will connect to my server and more or less hand me your windows password and login.

TL;DR: You are the weakest link. Prepare yourself mentally to be on guard 24/7/365 when online. Never post any information on any platform that you wouldn't mind being public. If it must be posted (like paying with a credit card), have a plan together for dealing with fraudulent transactions and reclaiming your identity. You want to know NOW how to fix all these things so you can react quick enough for when they inevitably happen (it is almost guaranteed you will have your card information stolen and abused at some point now).

>Also, is there a point to having an emergency flash drive and what would be worth putting on it?

Absolutely! Just be sure to encrypt it in the event it is lost or stolen. This can be done with Bitlocker on Windows or with the Disk Utility application in Mac. If you're rockin Linux, you're probably already familiar with LUKS. If you want to use an application not built in, I recommend Vera Crypt. It is a ported and maintained version of True Crypt, and is cross-platform, and is easy to use.

There are also water/shock/dust resistant drives, like this one.
If you want a water/shock/dust resistant stick-type, you can get something like this and use a necklace chain to wear it as a necklace.

Information you might want to keep on your emergency flash drive:
NEVER STORE THIS UNENCRYPTED

• Tax information.
  
• Resumes.
  
• Identity documents (front/back scans of passport, ID, etc.)
  
• Bitcoin/Ethereum/Cryptocurrency wallets.
  
• PRESCRIPTIONS + MEDICAL HISTORY/RECORDS.
  
• Pet vet records.
  
• Credit Card info + contact information for the banks/card issuers.
  
• Offline Map files (that can get loaded into map applications, like Google Maps).
  
• Your countries embassy locations and numbers.
  
• Insurance information (medical, car, homeowners).
  
• Bank Routing and Account #s.
  
• A current photo of your friends & family members (for missing persons after disaster). You can probably just grab that off Facebook these days.
  
• Address/Phone book of important contacts (I included mine with the photo).
  
• Critical business files, like ledgers.
  
• Valid digital copies of deeds, titles, registration etc.
  
• Vehicle VIN/License information.
  
• Recovery keys for various devices (SSH Keys, AES keys, keepass recovery keys, Google Authenticator/Gmail recovery keys, etc.)
  
  I actually have a persistent copy of TAILS installed on a drive. I can plug that in and load into it, and have all my information ready to rock at any moment. Essentially I can plug in and boot my drive from any working computer with a USB port, and have my desktop ready to go with all my code and critical files. All with tinfoil-level encryption, and I know my files will be unrecoverable on whatever machine I use.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-Digital-64GB-Traveler-DTDUO3C/dp/B010HWCFDA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494361743&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+c+flash+drive

Is this what you're talking about?

I had no idea you could even do this with the Pixel or Type-C devices..I'm amazed. My spotify is using up like 27 gb of my 32.

Could I use this and force Spotify to download files to external storage (in this case the the flash drive connected to the phone?). I'm not sure I completely understand that role of this versus phones that have MicroSD slots.

If that's possible, then that's amazing, I wouldn't mind plugging in the flash drive while driving so Spotify doesn't use data to steam music. Can someone confirm?

I think she could organize music in a music folder which the mini would be able to read as a normal flash drive. She then could also remotely manage that data from her smartphone ie adding/deleting music. The mini might not like that while it's plugged in though, and you might have to remove and reinsert it so that the mini re-indexes it.

It should work as a regular usb connection, with the added benefit of the wifi sharing managment.

IMO I'd get something like this and just load it up and forget about it. It's super small so it won't get caught or stuck on anything.

a led light is useful if DJing in low light situations!

flash drives are a pretty safe bet too!

Yeah the Rii F1 Micro is perfect, it's better spending a little bit more to get a decent quality OTG cable IMO (the cheap angled adapters look worrying).

I also just bought this 32gb USB flash drive for my sister (I have the 64gb version): https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cruzer-Fit-Flash-Drive-SDCZ33-064G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8/ (needs to be the 2018 edition).

With that USB flash drive I could hack from the 2nd front port, before moving to the back with OTG.

Yeah you definitely will want to free up space! If you have a USB 3.0 port, you can always get a fairly decent sized drive to move things onto you don't use as much.

https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Ultra-SDCZ43-064G-GAM46-Newest-Version/dp/B01BGTG3JA/

If you're still in the lookout for a storage solution, I've been using Sandisk Ultra Fit 256GB. It's the only one I've found with this size with the super small form factor. So far so good. Amazon link

I have a 32GB usb like that and everyone is all like "is that a bluetooth receiver? It's a usb stick? Woah how big? WHAT, 32GB, How much was it? Huh, $20."

EDIT: Just thought I would leave a link to the USB, it is pretty good and has fast file speed transfer(sometimes 15mb\s)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00812F7O8

EDIT2: Oh, and they are a total cunt to get out.

Personally i use these

handy small and easily lost(its a feature not a bug)

but seriously great drives.

The same one in 32gb

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGTG41W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was $10 shipped. If I can get music in my car for $10 worth every penny.

I have something like 130gb of music on my computer from years and years ago all of it rated in iTunes and a whole bunch of smart playlists based around those ratings and 32GB is enough to fit everything I've rated as 4 or more stars.

Some Flash Drives just don't work with USB Loaders on the Wii I can Confirm This Samsung Flash Drive has no issues Because I used it with USB Loader GX on my Wii Without Gamecube Ports it also has worked with Nintendont and Doesn't Get Hot at All and is Very Very Very Small and Has Fast Loading Times :) Also if it Ever Breaks it has a 5year Warranty thru Samsung Hopefully it Wont Explode Like the Note 7 XD

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-128GB-Flash-MUF-128BB-AM/dp/B017DH3O5A

https://www.sugarsync.com/personal/

Sign up for a free trial?

Honestly, I'd rather fork out money for a thumb drive. My stuff is worth it for me. Or burn some DVDs... etc.
http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Flash-Drive-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1368813593&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+drive

That should be plenty of space and speed. However, I'd probably look at benchmarks and find the fastest card you can afford. Lexar and Samsung make some great cards as well.

I'd also maybe suggest taking a look at the Sandisk Ultra Fit flash drive. It sits kinda flush, so it might be a workable solution for much faster speeds.

Crutchfield.com.

$100 will get you a head unit with Bluetooth audio streaming (typically with Pandora support as well), USB port, AUX port, CD player, installation guide, mounting hardware, and wiring adapters. All you need is a Saturday afternoon, a soldering iron or crimping set, and a screwdriver. I was amazed at how such a small change, going from CDs to USB (I did this several years ago before Bluetooth was really affordable), could make me so much happier in/with my car. Heads up though, since the USB ports are on the front of the stereos, make sure to get one of those little USB drives that don't stick out two inches.

I already did my research, and I'm getting this for a high-end freenas box:

• 8 core atom (20W) board
  
• 16 or 32 GB ECC DDR3 ram
  
• 6x4TB WD Red drives
  
• Silverstone DS380 case
  
• 16 GB Sandisk cruzer fit for the OS

I'm using OTG support and this USB drive works great!

Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7PDLXC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

get yourself one of these. They are too small/light to move once plugged in. Any brand will work (I like Samsung or Sandisk), as long as you get that form factor.

I live down a 3 mile long unpaved road and had the exact same problem you speak of until I went out and bought a tiny USB drive. Havent heard a jitter or a skip in months.

Protip: My Kenwood stereo says it only supports 32GB drives, but it's using a 128GB perfectly right now - you just have to format the drive as Fat32.

I bought this in October, 128 GB, and it's worked perfectly since. You do have to format it though.

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/

I got a usb 3.0 OTG 64gb drive that I keep swappable content on (videos and OTOY and highres images etc.

Note5 works awesome with it., soon as its pluged in, file exploer opens, you transfer what you want over, pull out when done, flip in GearVR and sail away.

No it cant be plugged in and kept there. But you can load data to it quickly with out needing a desktop etc

edit: $20 works like a charm

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-connector-Android-Devices-SDDD2-064G-G46/dp/B00RBGYGPG

Just picked this one up, works great:

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YnoUBb0NEFBAA

>> a good flash drive is like more than half the price of a cheap SSD with 1/8 the space and much worse performance.

wat

Where exactly are you finding a 1TB SSD for $60?

@OP: Still I would be surprised if USB performed well for this... if you have USB 3.0, you can pick up a USB 3.0 32GB for $10 and try it if you want. If it doesn't work well (most likely case) then hey, you've got a sweet USB 3.0 flash drive with plenty of space for other things.

Ubuntu does the exact same thing, with a better supported Distro, and Cheaper to boot.

I can't imagine why someone would want to carry around a Live-USB that's 64GB in size, but doesn't want to go through the effort to save themselves $35 for less than 15 minutes of effort.

It does. Stay clear of it. There are alternatives. I prefer the samsung mini drive myself, but there are other choices (leef, etc).

The sandisk ultra fit pulls a slightly higher voltage than the others, hence its heat problems. Sandisk redesigned it (and I'm not sure if I have any of the newer batch), but there still seems to be some concern amongst owners, judging by reviews.

So why risk it? Sandisk makes great regular-sized usb sticks, but steer clear of their mini version.

Incidentally, I've got one of these and it's great because it's both tiny and the dual-connector makes it an incredibly easy way to transfer files between computers.

I don't trust USB drives enough for containing the entire OS, but they do work nicely as boot partitions. I use these cause they are so small (unlikely to get bent or knocked out of port): http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Flash-Drive-SDCZ33-016G-B35/dp/B005FYNSZA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1393945670&sr=8-3&keywords=cruzer+fit

Make a nice boot partition on it and then make a dd copy on another computer and then you are set to go.

You want a nice looking usb thumb? Get this one:

https://s16.directupload.net/images/190319/x7rl25dt.jpg

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive

works without hardware mod or hub. One important note: Don't push the usb device to far into the usb port of PCS otherwise auto bleem will not recognize it (not always). Just push it slightly in and it will work everytime.

Able to: Yes

Have to wait forever for loading screens and other operations that read/write from disk: Count on it.

If you are going to try it, i would suggest getting a fast USB like the Sandisk Extreme Pro and making sure you are using a usb3.0 (Blue) or USB 3.1(Red) port.

SanDisk SDCZ880-128G-G46 Extreme PRO 128GB USB 3.1 Solid State Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU8TZRV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2iaNDb5RK4W8T

Everyone has their own preference, but I have had great success with this: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-MUF-128AB-AM-Plus-128GB/dp/B07D7PDLXC/

Had it since day one (June/2019) with no issues. Review and reformat twice a month on average. No issues.

Good PSA. I've been using the Kingston 64gb data traveler (Kingston Digital 64GB Data... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010HWCFDA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) and it works very well like you said. A breeze to review and delete on the fly.

Well, I prefer Samsung over Sandisk, only because it has various protections against electrical shortage, dust, and moisture ect. Here is the one I have been using since February and it has given me excellent performance:

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wMzTDbXRP4QVJ

I am running my Roms off a 128gb USB drive. It's a feature they added official support for a few weeks ago. USB drives are cheaper than SD cards, and it keeps your games separate from your setup, which makes things easier if you need something up and need to reinstall or something like that.

https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/Running-ROMs-from-a-USB-drive

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017DH3O5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_uhpHyb45WQ99Y

I went with a really fast USB3 thumb drive--kinda the best of both worlds.

Your R/W speeds are going to be significantly slower with a microSD card compared to a USB3 thumbdrive or SSD. I chose this thumbdrive over the SSD because it's physically smaller than an SSD+powered adapter.

It's worked fabulously for me so far. It's plugged directly into the back of the Shield where it's 100% unnoticeable, and if I need to use more than 1 USB port for anything else I can always plug a hub into the remaining USB port.

But I would definitely go with either a USB thumbdrive or SSD over a microSD.

I have a 2011 R60 and decided it was easiest to just use a USB thumb drive for music. This is the one I have, works great. I also have a dual USB charger for the cigarette lighter to charge phones.

the sandisk extreme USB definitely has the best speed to price ratio.

It's quite small and I like it. Here's the 32GB. If you want to go even smaller, here's a 32GB and you can buy this strap to go with it. Hope this helps!

can someone help me check these two links, they both sell the same thing but amazon insists that one is newer and another older? I tried to find on google but I can't seem to see the updated version compared to the older version, if you have any information can you please explain to me? The price difference is little but I still want to know what I am paying that extra dollar for

old

new

I got a few of these samsung ones. I like them and they've worked pretty well for everything except the actual OTG install

I don't know about movies but I'm at around 400 comic books (maybe more) 50 books and 20 or so text books plus 2-3 gigs of music and I've just about hit my limit.

I'm gonna buy another one of these to sit in my USBOTG http://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Cruzer-Fit-32GB-SDCZ33-032G-B35/dp/B00812F7O8

I already have a 16gb and love it.

Any pack will speed up loading of the game, but the basic is probably the most substantial of them all.

Also, you don't need a hard drive, a simple USB drive will work. Use a 64GB USB 2.0 drive. Compatible with the Wii U and what I currently have in the back of my system. Also, it's a super small drive, basically plug it in and forget about it. Currently around $20. Anyone with a Wii U should get this drive, very cheap and provides tons of space.

http://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Cruzer-Low-Profile-Drive--SDCZ33-064G-B35/dp/B00FJRS6QY

Thanks, will do.

Regarding following the bleemsync steps to just deploy the kernel, am I right I just need to follow steps 1-13?

Also regarding using the OTG splitter cable approach, am I right to assume this would allow *all* usb sticks to work? so no power draw issues at all?

Below the otg cable and usb stick I'm thinking of purchasing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07M83762Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2CBW8FNZCDSJI&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07855LJ99/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1

or

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P8XQPY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1

​

Thanks again

Ofertas previas al viernes afro:

• JBL Charge 3 (90 dólares)
  
• ASUS VG248QE 24" (170 dólares)
  
• AOC G2460PF 24” (180 dólares)
  
• Acer GN246HL 24" (192 dólares)
  
• GOPRO Hero 7 y Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3) (199 dólares)
  
• Logitech G933 (90 dólares)
  
• Samsung 860 EVO 1TB (128 dólares)
  
• Samsung 970 EVO 500GB M2 (117 dólares)
  
• WD 4TB Elements Desktop Hard Drive (90 dólares)
  
• WD 8TB Elements Desktop (150 dólares)
  
• WD 10TB Elements Desktop (200 dólares)
  
• Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 (125 dólares)
  
• Xbox One S 1TB Console - Minecraft Creators Bundle (200 dólares)
  
• Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum (48 dólares)
  
• Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse (35 dólares)
  
• Fire HD 10 Tablet (100 dólares)
  
• NVIDIA Shield TV | 4K HDR (140 dólares)
  
• Kindle Paperwhite (130 dólares)
  
• Xiaomi Mi Box - 4K (62 dólares)
  
• SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1 (20 dólares)
  
  De nada...

adding to this build, i'll change:

• the motherboard, this asus one has more USB ports and M.2 support for the same price.
  
• RAM, it's only like two dollars cheaper but it adds up if you build many PCs. the motherboard doesn't support more than 2133MHz anyway.
  
• the case. you'll probably want something that looks more professional, solid, and well-built.
  

• the DVD drive. it'll only be used for installing windows so it's pointless to get one for each PC, just install from a fast USB drive (great one below)
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $110.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Motherboard | Asus H110M-A/M.2 Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $57.99 @ SuperBiiz
  Memory | G.Skill NT Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $32.98 @ Newegg
  Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $58.97 @ NCIX US
  Case | Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $42.99 @ NCIX US
  Power Supply | EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply | $32.00 @ Amazon
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $335.92
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-13 01:00 EDT-0400 |
  
  
  
  
  
  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  Other| SanDisk Extreme USB 3.0 64GB Flash Drive With Speed Up To 245MB/s-SDCZ80-016G-GAM46| $28.49

The flash drive looks like a good choice personally I used this mini Samsung drive cause it copies cooler, but it's more money in Canada so I'd stick with what you have. As for the card, I would use a more basic one with a lower write speed and maybe only 8 gigs. I say this cause I had an 8 gig card that worked great, but when I tried to use a 64gb card with the same setup, I couldn't get Project M to load anymore. I don't what you'll try, but newer, bigger cards might cause issues

Like others have said OP, You can use a cheap USB drive instead. I use this one and you can barely tell it's there. The Wii Us ports are only USB 2.0 just FYI. SanDisk Cruzer Fit CZ33 32GB USB 2.0 Low-Profile Flash Drive- SDCZ33-032G-B35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00812F7O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vvddAbC6F561V

Cheap SanDisk USB 3.0 drives have been my go to, but now I need to upgrade to 64GB.

My longtime CDJ-using friend recommended this Samsung model that I have on order.

There are some Fit ones on sale

SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1 Flash Drive - SDCZ430-128G-G46 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07855LJ99/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_usmlDb3EDCMTN

SanDisk 256GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1 Flash Drive - SDCZ430-256G-G46 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07857Y17V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gtmlDbK7Y2FVA

I'm thinking to try Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB USB 3.1 Flash Drive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7PDLXC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

What about the SD Cards? Now the SD support up to 512GB sd cards.