(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best craft supplies & materials

Quick and dirty, this can work, it is uses relatively easily available and cheap materials, and can give reasonable results. There might be some cracks or flashing in the finished hand but the can be filed out relatively easily. However you need a dedicated oven for a good few days.

Use either alginate to make a hand mold, they sell kits
Be aware the alginate molds do degrade rapidly, and are generally unusable in less than a day. If you send one to your sister, have her make the hand in plaster then make a simple gauze mold of the plaster positive.

or..

Buy plaster infused gauze and do a quick 2 part mold around the hand using it. Lay hand flat do one side, with a bit of gauze to form a parting lip, wait to set up, flip hand over, grease the lip, and do the other side. Then remove it carefully reinforce it enough to hold wax.

Ideally you want to end up with a void you can do a slush casting. Heat the wax (preferably microcrystalline, or beeswax, but paraffin can do in a pinch) Melt it in a double boiler for safety, do not over heat the wax. Pour in enough to fill the mold, then wait maybe 10 15 seconds and dump it out. Repeat the process until you get about an 1/8 " thick shell of wax.


Remove the wax from the mold carefully, and fix any issues that you may have. for quick and dirty I would simply plan on using the wrist as a all purpose pour cup, vent/sprue. I would attach the wrist to a square of cardboard wix wax to make the wax easier to handle for the next steps.

Mix up dry 50/50 by weight, plaster (buy a 50lbs bag from a home store for $12-15) and silica flour (might be able to find locally at pottery supply or if flour is too difficult to find, use as fine as possible silica sand). This will be your investment.

Mix a small amount thinly and paint it on the surface of the hands, essentially making a very thin shell. This will help prevent bubbles from forming. Once the thin layer is on, Mix up a thicker mix and layer it on about a half inch thick. I usually would wrap it with some hardware cloth or steel wire about now. It will help the mold from cracking apart when heated. It does not need to be extremely tight it is just there to provide reinforcement. You can then cast or lay on a thicker mold around it. For a hand sized piece should for roughly 1" minimum plaster all the way around. The thicker the mold the longer it will take to dry out in the oven.


After the plaster is set I would give it a day, then in a 200 F ish oven melt out the wax. put a pan of water under and watch it like a hawk. The wax will melt and float on top, and the steam can help transfer the heat to the mold. This is a fire hazard so watch it. It will probably take a few hours. Once the wax is all out (this will melt out quicker as a slush mold vs solid wax) turn up the heat to 350, and cook it for 6-8 hours, then take it up to the max temp usually about 500 and cook it for at least 24 hours, more if possible, and more if considerably thicker than an inch. Long story short, you want all the free water gone.. Unless your oven goes over 600, there will be some H20 still chemically bonded in the plaster, but it should not matter too much if you drive off all free water. You can melt out and cook the mold ahead of time, but they will reabsorb moisture from air if not kept in hot dry place.

When you are ready to pour, you will want to pour these mold while still hot straight from the oven, and buried up to the top in sand ideally in something like a steel bucket. The sand will ensure nothing will seep out if the mold cracks. Level the wrist opening so it will cast evenly.

Be forewarned and perform at your own risk. Wear full protective layer of clothing, mask and head covering. These type of molds could easily trap moisture and cause a pop and send molten metal flying in the air that rain downs upon you. This can sometimes happen up to a minute or so after they are poured. Pour the aluminum in slowly, and if it starts to spit or pop up out of the mold, just stop. The mold is too wet to pour and needed to be dried further.

Ok. Did some reading.

I'm not going to sugar coat this because well, I don't believe in that.

Welcome to the dark side. We have goldfish crackers. (BTW my roommate was an aide for 20 years and said that they are convenient because if they are attacking you, you can throw them at them and it will distract them for a while.) Invest in goldfish crackers and fruit loops. They make good rewards.

Buy this book. I really wish someone had recommended me that book before I stepped into an autism classroom. I reread it now every once in a while and still learn new things.

Start here. Go through the rest of her blog. Subscribe to it. She runs an excellent easy to understand blog.

Visuals are insanely important. Subscribe to LessonPix. Your school may have Board Maker, but I find it very difficult to use. Plus, LessonPix is online based so you can create something at home and then access it at school or vice versa. It is like $36 a year, which is insanely cheap. For my visuals, I usually put a picture with the word on the bottom.

You will need velcro. Do not buy it from a store. This is a wholesale place online. They have the cheapest velcro out there. I buy coins so I don't have to cut it, it makes it a lot easier. If you are going to cut velcro, get titanium scissors. They will not gum up when cutting velcro. Have a system with your velcro so you don't have random patterns of velcro. I usually do soft on a surface and rough on anything that travels.

You are going to need a personal laminator. My binding has the cheapest 5 mil laminating sheets out there. Use 5 mil for anything that travels and if its going to stay on a wall, use 3 mil. 3 mil or 1 mil (what the school laminating machine uses) tears easily and doesn't last. Once you create something, you don't want to lose it. Most any laminator will do. I like the Fellowes brand. This is a very good one. That my binding website has some awesome deals on laminators. Whatever you get, just make sure it doesn't need a carrier sleeve to laminate because those are annoying. Just make sure that if you from 5 mil to 3 mil you switch the laminator over to 3 mil and let it cool or there will be a burning smell. To save time I bought one of these. Just makes cutting faster.

Don't overspend on stuff for the classroom. Look at oriental trading post. You can find a lot of stuff there. Sign up for the newsletter and wait from a free shipping coupon, don't pay for shipping.

Get yourself a couple pairs of these. I like the 18 inch ones. Make sure your tetnus shot is up to date.

You probably need to brush up on your evidence based practices for autism too.

I know this is a lot of information. But these are all things I wish people would have told me before I started teaching this level of autism kiddos. I went into it blind. I've had to put all this together through reading, training, and observation. Its easier just to be front loaded with the information.

My first year teaching, I was put in a K-1 mod/severe autism class (your setting 3). It was the first autism specific class at the school. Nobody gave me any support. I had no idea what I was doing. I had very little formal training on autism specific teaching. It was like being sucked into a vortex in deep water with nobody around to help me. I didn't even know where to go for information. That's why I try to help people and be completely honest. I'm not trying to overwhelm you.

If you need help and support, let me know. My MA.Ed is in Special Ed with a specialty in Autism Spectrum Disorder. I am teaching a class similar to yours at an elementary school level next year. I'm really good at dealing with behaviors and data too.

OHhhhhh there are a ton of things you could get your friend. Price is going to be the biggest thing.

Low end
Quality sketch books
http://www.amazon.com/Art-Alternatives-Sketches-Making-Hardcover/dp/B0025TZ30G/ref=pd_sim_201_64?ie=UTF8&dpID=41P-a-zm7QL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0F10SP8YX71YXCMRXJG9

Micron Pens (LOVE THESE)
http://www.amazon.com/Sakura-30062-6-Piece-Pigma-Micron/dp/B0008G8G8Y/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0F10SP8YX71YXCMRXJG9

Mid-Range
Nice drafting table for illustrations
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004N7AXF8/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bFfK7_g196_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=1RZ31XD1YQWR6679ZWZ7&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=e2586643-3e21-5a6c-aba3-4d8d6e8d97c8&pf_rd_i=3733771

Nice tracing table
http://www.amazon.com/Artograph-12-Inch-17-Inch-Light-Pad/dp/B003QMAUSQ/ref=sr_1_8?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1463621722&sr=1-8&keywords=led+light+table&refinements=p_36%3A2638329011

Amazon gift cards for reference material. We look at a lot of stuff.

High end (sorry for the big jump in price just a suggestion)
Wacom tablet. This thing is sexy!!! I would love to have one of these myself.
http://www.wacom.com/en-us/products/pen-displays/cintiq-22-hd-touch

I'm going to throw this one in there anyways even though it's by far the most expensive thing here, but still. 27-inch iMac with Retina 5K display if you choose to go this way, I'm willing to help give you some specs that would help your friend out so they will be happy to be doing this forever and ever!

There are so many other options you could go with and if you choose to, your welcome to bounce ideas off me. The more special your piece I feel as though the more inspired your friend will be to be something big. I know I would!!

Good luck!!!

If he is a big warhammer collector and painter then it may not be a good idea to get him a random model as he may already have it or dislike that particular model. I'd suggest that you consider putting several smaller things in a box for him.

Here are some alternatives to an individual model that he may enjoy:

-Primers and paints (you can buy the GW brand paints, but I'd recommend Vallejo). A mix of metal paints (copper, brass, gold, silver, steel) would be a nice gift. And every painter always needs black so that would be a nice thing to add on.

-Paint brushes. A few very fine brushes would be helpful. Look for sizes 0, 5/0 and 10/0.

-If you know that he airbrushes you could buy him a bottle of 70 isp alcohol to add to any grouping of things you give him.

-Warhammer books are always a nice gift. If you can tell us if he collects Warhammer 40K (scifi) or Warhammer (medieval aesthetic) we can recommend books.

-Something like this would be a nice gift for him if he puts together a lot of models: http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5282-Basic-Knife-Set/dp/B00004Z2UB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1415106833&sr=8-2&keywords=xacto

-A warhammer themed t shirt (you can find them on etsy and ebay).

• Helix Circle Maker (~$8, use this a lot).
  
• This set of 48 skinny washi tape (be aware that the image DOES represent the products. I liked all but 3 of the tapes, and only one-third had gold foil patterns).
  
• Sakura Pigma Micron pens (I use 01 and 08 the most).
  
• Tombow Fudenosuke brushpens (I like the soft tip, but I bought the two pack. It came with a mini ruler that I cut to fit into my A6-ish's pocket and that's the ruler I use, if I use one). ~$3/pen
  
• If I need an eraser, my favorite is Pentel Clic Eraser ZE-22. I've had this for decades. Has never failed me. Also, no stub problems.
  
• I use Tombow brush pens, but eh. I should have bought the monochrome set rather than the ones I have. I do not regret buying #451, #243, and #062, but YMMV (~$3/pen).
  
• The Pentel Aquash Brush pens are the best way to get into water brush pens, water coloring ($3 per).
  
• Along with a Prima watercolors palette (I favor Tropicals, but will go for Odessey next time, ~$15-25). It made me realize that actually, yes, I do enjoy water colors.
  
  Best of luck!

When I started doing bondage, I got a bunch of thick (1/4 inch) cotton clothesline from the hardware store, cut it into 15ft and 30ft lengths, and tied a tight overhand knot at the ends. Rope is always easy to explain away, particularly when it's "normal" rope and not the nice bondage-specific stuff. If you find that you really like tying, you can always buy better rope, and then you have convenient lengths of clothesline for other things.

15ft is enough for tying wrists together in a two-column tie, and you can use that same simple tie to tie together anything that has two 'columns', like two ankles, an arm to a waist, two sides of a bent leg, and so on.

If you want to, say, tie wrists and ankles to the bedposts, what you want is a one-column tie, which is just a secure and comfortable way to secure one 'column' of the body to something else.

If you want to get more into bondage, 30ft is enough to tie a basic chest harness, which you can use to tie other things to, as a convenient 'handle' for your partner, or just to give them more of a feeling of confining rope. A common chest harness is a box tie, or a takate kote, which is basically a chest harness that binds the hands and arms instead of letting them stay loose.

If you want something other than rope, I'd recommend something thicker like scarves rather than strips of fabric. You can pick up scarves at basically any women's accessories section of a department store. Fabric tends to knot tightly, so thicker fabric is a bit better, and it's good to keep something around to help work the knot out (like a knitting needle to stick into the knot) or something to cut the fabric (like a pair of safety shears or a knife you're comfortable using close to skin). Actually, keeping those things around is important when you're tying with rope, too.

I've been whittling for a few years now and used a few different knives but I always come back to the first I used: Flexcut Cutting Knife

The shape of the handle makes it extremely comfortable to use and the blade is very good quality. Another essential purchase for a beginner is a strop or some means of sharpening the blade. A dull blade makes the whole process painful.

Some people would recommend safety gloves and a thumb guard too. But in my opinion they're not necessary if you keep in mind where the blade is and where it's going, just keep the wood between you and the blade. Although I do sometimes tape a bit of rubber or paper to my thumb to make pushing the blade a bit less painful when working on harder wood like cherry.

A blade that I've really been considering buying is the Flexcut Carving Jack because I've read a lot of good reviews and it has all the essential blades, although it's expensive and probably more than a beginner needs.

Good luck with the carving. It's a great hooby to take up. Nothing better than sitting outside on a sunny day with a drink and whittling the afternoon away.

The delica is a pretty great option for whittling. It's a high carbon blade, so it holds up to wood fibers and hard use pretty well. It's got a solid lockup and zero blade play, so control and safety are taken care of. But honestly, it's a better EDC tool than a carving knife.

Another good option I'd throw out for you are high carbon mora blades.

You might also dig this. It's specially made for wood work.

This should do the trick. You can watch the general process of creating a sculpture by watching his other videos. Also searching for polymer clay on google and checking the video section should yield plenty of results.


I myself work with "Super Sculpey Firm", but I'd probably recommend starting with the softer version "Super Sculpey". I highly recommend this tool set or any other similar looking ones that Amazon recommends, you mostly find a favorite tool and use that for 95% of the work. For many years I used to work exclusively with toothpicks to sculpt, before I got the money to spend on tools.


Also, if you haven't already, you can check the Album I mentioned in my comment to see the process of making this exact sculpture. What I didn't capture in the photos, is that the leafs actually have a small wire going through them, to hold them up like that.

I like Strathmore Recycled Sketchbooks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002469OFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DVkhAb6W7MZP8. Good tooth and edges are perforated if you want to remove them. They come in many sizes but I like 9x12. Fits in a backpack or on a scanner

I used to sell art supplies. Moleskine notebooks are expensive for what they are and imho are a fad. Plenty of hardback thin notebooks on the market. I personally don’t like hardbacks because I use sketchbooks to experiment with. Hardbacks feel better for documenting and creating finished work (even if it says in s book). For me sketchbooks aren’t supposed to be fancy. They’re for me to get out my thoughts, and some of my thoughts are shit. Judy turn the page and start again


Edit, oh saw you don’t like wirebound. In that case check stillman amd birn
http://www.jerrysartarama.com/stillman-and-birn-sketchbooks?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpYiPk4Hg1wIVHoezCh3dzA9nEAQYBSABEgKRXfD_BwE
If you like to use inks or watercolor, go for the 270 gsm, which is comparable to 100 lbs paper. Less likely to bleed through.

There’s also Rendr Hardbound Sketchbooks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00915UUUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_r4khAb5F8R4CN
This paper is specially designed for markers and inks. You can draw on both sides without bleeding (and I have tried) these books come in multiple sizes and you can also find this paper on a roll. Texture is very smooth.

Hope that helps

I got this set as a gift, but after doing three projects and burning my fingers on the handle I'd recommend buying a tool like this where you can actually adjust the temperature. For more information and inspiration I'd recommend checking out /r/pyrography and good luck getting started.

Morhty demands:

• So easy for me ;) My most wanted item evah in this world... TOP HAT!!! (In my Fancy Man list)
  
  
• Probably this... Only on metal shows, never in other public places (in my clothes/accessories list :P
  
  
• This? I had to Google that word :P My English isn't the greatest :) (found in movie related list)
  
  Akeleie demands:
  
  
• A Robin for a Batman fan named Robin xD (Found in Random list)
  
  
• To maybe one day get to try my dream hobby of making masks :P (found in DIY list)
  
  
• A good book about metal! :D or any Batman comic for that matter... (Found in the book list)
  
  Super awesome contest! :D

The most mundane thing I could think of

product review: I was a little nervous with two 8 inchers to fill my hands but I was pleasantly surprised by how they fit right in. They did their job and they did it well. I was very pleased and will share them with my friends and neighbors when they need to get the job done!

Hi!

Some things about me...

1. My favorite color is silver
   
   
2. I was a lurker on this sub for a long time before I turned 18
   
   
3. I am 5'7" or 5'8" not quite sure which
   
   
4. I am in the 12th grade so I am flooded in college applications
   
   
5. I love messing around on photoshop
   
   
6. I want a per really bad but I'm not allowed one
   
   
7. I can't drive
   
   
8. I love candy a lot
   
   And I love RAOA because gifting and being gifted gives me something to look forward to. Life can be a little rough sometimes. Other than that, watching everyone interact and be nice to each other gives me some nice fuzzy feelings.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F8V66O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2AN2PXRX4RL99&coliid=I3CDARR7I9YJ7J&psc=1
   
   I would really love these googly eyes.

Sounds like dull and or low-quality cutting tools. A sharp tool is a safe tool.

It really shouldn't require much force even with traditional "hard" linoleum. They also make various grades of much softer lino blocks.

One of my best upgrades when doing lino was ditching those cheap big box store Speedball cutting tools. Those things aren't even properly beveled to begin with and they dull super quick. I picked up this affordable set which isn't even like "pro-grade" or anything but good lord those things came literally shaving sharp, hold an edge quite well, and, because they were properly ground from the factory, they're pretty easy to sharpen when dull. The comparison of just that simple upgrade is like carving with a hot knife in butter compared to my Speedball which was like trying to carve wood with a screwdriver.

amazing work, would love to see the final full pic.
I feel like the build may have been easier if you used pricking irons rather than a hand sewing punch, it helps to keep even spacing and you can make a bunch of holes in one go. https://smile.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Leathercraft-Leather-Stitching-Perforate/dp/B00T17OULI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468779215&sr=8-1&keywords=pricking+iron

again, great work

A very cool invention! Bet this person has made some bank. :)

https://smile.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484157229&sr=8-1&keywords=scotty+peeler

That, combined with a hair dryer, makes it so much easier to remove labels.

ETA: I found one of these, Used, on eBay and it's perfect. It's the small travel version with a folding handle and has Tourmaline crystals in it which help reduce static electricity. It's great for my hair, as well! :)

https://smile.amazon.com/BaBylissPRO-Tourmaline-Titanium-Travel-Dryer/dp/B003QKL5YQ/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1484157360&sr=8-3&keywords=babyliss+pro+tt

As other commenters have said, don't bother with clone-a-willy. But that doesn't mean all is lost! If you get this (or some other bag of alginate, you dont need the plaster) and this it's a little more complicated/you might need to practice casting something else first, but overall it works much better. I've tried both and it's definitely a better silicone, and for me the casting gave way better detail. All can feel free to PM for... detail😉 and some pointers I guess

Thanks for the tip!

Nobody seems to sell ones with 5 mm prong pitch, but I found them with 4 mm prong pitch.

http://www.amazon.com/CrazyEve-Leathercraft-Diamond-Stitching-Perforate/dp/B00T17OULI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449624835&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=diamond+chisel+prong+pitch+5mm

Better?

Also, i'm looking into ordering this leather. 4 oz thickness seems perfect for wallets, and its sort of like the natural veg tan people recommend, but horween and cheap ($5 per square foot, about $100 for a 20 sqft hide).

http://www.maverickleathercompany.com/horween/horween-seconds/tumbled-natural-essex-finished-flesh/

This set has the same specs (2 mm prong, 4 mm prong pitch), but looks sharper?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010WGFZB0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1OIS8P00XXPZL

Well you can still use the notebook, it seems high quality and smooth paper and i don't see any bleeding. If you make the width between 2 lines your x-height, it will work out. A set of 6 lines would then be your guidelines for 1 rule of text. Here is a diagram, based of the scribblers ratio and slant. So just count your lines and add in the remaining guidelines and you're set to go.
(And don't mind my crappy, drawn in letters, again i'm not doing pointed-pen calligraphy.)

If you do want to use other paper in the future then cheap options are Laser printer paper, Marker paper or a Rhodia pad.
These are also smooth surfaced, bleedproof options. You want smooth paper, because your nib is less likely to get snagged or dig in the paper and tear it. Bleedproof, because your ink will stay put and not run out & ruin fine hairlines.

Finally, your nib is also an important factor in writing pointed-pen calligraphy. Each nib is different, some are more flexible than others. Take your nib out off the holder and see if you can find a brandname and number; from what i can see i think it's a Brause Steno 361 (I could be wrong). Other options are A Nikko G, a Nikko G Zebra, Hunt 512, Hunt 101 and 103 (both flexible but very delicate), Brausse 66EF (it's smaller and more flexible) and so many others. Everyone has their own favorite nib, so experiment if you have the chance. And do clean your nib when your finished with writing, then they'll last much longer, otherwise they'll corrode and rust.

That's all i can say, and much of it was picked up here on the subreddit or plucked of the internet. Have Fun!

I have this Very Big Sketchbook as my Book. I hot glued in scrapbook paper from michaels, those are like .87 cents. And I print off all my work (spells pictures rituals) because I’m not sitting here writing everything down when I’ve already made my documents look nice.

I like this method because I can tear the paper out and the scrapbook background may be damaged a little, but I can always glue something back over it and tada like new. Also, I’m the only one whose ever gonna see it so I do what I want.

Edit: I LOVED watching charmed and always wanted a Book as thick as theirs so I really love this sketchbook and it was only $27.

I am a utter novice myself! Never touched polymer clay really until the day before yesterday! Personally I am using this tool set which /u/shawnusaurus got me. It's awesome and while I don't know how to use half of them yet, I don't think my sheep could have been made without it!

I've only used fimo soft really so far but it seems good! Super malleable and easy to use!

I agree with /u/redsnappa127 . The materials that make up the clone willy kit are standard life-casting materials. Search for molding alginate on amazon. You can get a pound of alginate for $15 http://amzn.com/B007PULSRM or you get get 4lbs from Smooth-on which is the company that professional body casters use for $32: http://amzn.com/B000QCM27Q or from smooth-on: http://www.smooth-on.com/Life-Casting-Alja-/c3_1185/index.html?catdepth=1

Then you need a platinum cured silicone which is the more expensive part $38: http://amzn.com/B00EOA25X2 or www.smooth-on.com/Silicone-Rubber-an/c2_1115_1131/index.html?catdepth=1

SmoothSil 940 is platinum cured and food safe so it should be safe to make into a dildo.

You just need a molding container and that would be easy to make out of an old water bottle, the 1L smart water bottles would be good as they are decently sized and smooth sided.

>Headbands and bandanas are amazing if you want to look like a basketball player or Axl Rose.

Cool? That's your opinion, just like my opinion is that a top-knot makes you look silly. I'll take both of those over the latter.

>Also, you said dozens of different ways. I only see 7 things linked here with a few duplicates.

Lmao. That's what you want to nitpick about? The goal is keeping hair out of your eyes, not fancy hairstyles:

http://f.tqn.com/y/menshair/1/S/2/1/-/-/bald5.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Sexy-Hair-Control-Maniac-Shine/dp/B00GYGKQTY/ref=sr_1_2_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1499281267&sr=8-2&keywords=hair+control

https://www.amazon.com/xtava-Pinup-Hair-Clips-Professional/dp/B01LXCL45M/ref=sr_1_11_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1499281288&sr=1-11&keywords=hair+clips

https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Style-Butterfly-Clamps-Assorted/dp/B000X20Y4C/ref=sr_1_8_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1499281288&sr=1-8&keywords=hair+clips

https://www.amazon.com/Toboggan-Timeless-Clothing-Accessories-Top/dp/B01LZ27V22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499281462&sr=8-1&keywords=beanie

https://www.amazon.com/VIKINGS-Chieftain-Safety-Swedish-Platinum/dp/B011L8WJIA/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1499281551&sr=1-4&keywords=razor

https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Titanium-Scissors-Straight-Handle-13901/dp/B000P0LNRE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499281558&sr=8-3&keywords=scissors

Why not just save yourself time and energy and change the design. That's what they did to make it work. I would make the legs from 4x4 (which is really 3.5 x 3.5) and the horizontals pieces from 2 x 4 (again, realy 2.5 x 3.5) Everything will match up and it will look just fine. Or just use 2x for all of it. That's the best part about seeing a design you like. Just make it work for the tools and materials you have at your disposal.
Also, another suggestion would be to add rubber tabs or felt tabs to the top of the wood for the glass to rest on. Otherwise, that glass could easily slide around. I'd go with something like this to keep the glass protected from the wood and in place: http://www.amazon.com/Self-adhesive-Clear-Rubber-Feet-Bumpons/dp/B001JASGH4

Great idea. Will really help those riding behind you understand why your not moving over. Thank you for being considerate to others!!!

As an idea to help you see behind you. You might be able to get a small flexible plastic mirror that you can attach to the brim of your helmet. If oriented the correct way, you should be able to make out if someone is behind you. In a catch, it is very unlikely to cause a secondary issue. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Flexible-Mirror-Sheets-Cuttable-Plastic/dp/B01BU99K6E

Do you mean something like these? Because that seems like an awesome idea! https://www.amazon.com/Self-adhesive-Clear-Rubber-Feet-Bumpons/dp/B001JASGH4

You have some great tips too, thanks.

I started with this then got one of these for removing larger chunks.
*note the irwin one comes with a factory edge meaning it will need to be sharpened...so you'll need one of these and this to get that baby super sharp. then run it over the flat part of this and you'll be in like Flynn.

Also the flexcut slip strop if used every 20 minutes of carving (with any tool) will keep the edges super sharp for longer, meaning you dont have to go to the harsh stone right away. Also, note, when using the stone, to soak for at least 20 minutes before using. There are plenty of great youtube videos out there teaching proper sharpening technique for all sorts of tools with Water stones.

I'd also suggest a wooden mallet and a larger heavier one, or I just use a rubber mallet. Also while you're at it, grab a coping saw to remove large areas of unwanted wood. Make sure you have a vice to hold your wood or some sort of block device.

I'm still waiting on my carving knives from Here. They have a back order of 6-8 weeks! I got a straight (sloyd) knife and a hook knife for spoon carving and such.

So far that's where I'm at. Hope that helps.

They sell precut mini mirrors if you have a square shape, but I couldn't find any in the size I needed.

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BU99K6E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work pretty well as long as you apply it perfectly flat. Otherwise you get sort of a fun house mirror effect.

It was actually quite simple. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BU99K6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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And then I made a triangle and taped it inside the machine bottom to allow for it to stay off the drip tray. I then cut another piece and laid it on top of the triangle. I will take some pictures and another video today. I was able to clean it up a bit and make it more clean by taking off an additional layer of the protective plastic. :)

​

Overall, very pleased with the results. Now if I could just hit the cup :)

Not to sure on the etiquette but if this is something you want to keep for a long long time don't be cheap. A lot of artist do quick sketches in marker so you want a book with paper that doesn't bleed and is acid free. The best one I can recommend is a Crescent Rendr you can usually find this one at Michael's, but not always.

I have been very happy with Canson Marker Paper. Very transparent and thin for easily visible guidelines behind. Very little absorption so the ink sits on top, no feathering/bleeding. Cheap too. Not the best for a finished work, but it is wonderful for practice. I don't like how expensive and thick good watercolor paper is. Plus it seems to be fairly rough and gets fibers caught in the pen.

I am new to this though, so take it with a grain of salt. Today I have been working on this on the marker paper :)

I would not recommend the citadel tools. They are quite expensive compared to other brands. I would recommend something like this. The mold line remover I think is unnecessary. You can just as easily remove mold lines using the back edge of a hobby knife blade. the file set might be nice to have, but again, there are cheaper options.

Unless you're really committed to spending your money at that one store or whatever, I recommend checking hobby lobby (or whatever your local equivalent is) for tools and equipment. Don't buy cheap, but don't buy expensive, either. haha.

I'm totally a novice and a software developer by trade, so take what I'm about to say with caution. That said, here goes:

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I started with a propane forge because it was easier to make, or trying many things to build one. The best thing that I've managed to find as far as instructions or help is this video on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TS7wumQt0s8&t=123s - I used these bricks from Amazon and so far they're doing an ok job: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VEOIVA. If I had to give one word of advice it'd be to save your money and not buy the cheap firebricks you'll find at home improvement stores. They kind of work, but ultimately you'll lose a ton of heat and I ended up spending the extra cash to just buy good firebrick because I felt unsafe(I hit my burner with a laser thermometer and it was astronomically hot b/c heat was seeping up into it).

​

Last and certainly not least, I am planning on building a coal forge because I'm having a tough time getting the heat I need to forge weld. So the comment I saw that said to get both ... totally on point. I can see myself using propane when I'm looking to just do something quickly on a weeknight, and when I have a ton of hammer work or forge welding to do I'd switch to coal.

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Edit: Assuming you're just starting... I have taken one beginning blacksmith class and I'm planning on several more in the following year. Find a blacksmithing association near you and attend the meetings. It's totally worth the time to link up with the pros.

Edit 2: If you're in the US, check this out: https://abana.org/

35 feet is honestly long for rope stuff, even for people who do a lot of rope stuff.

Most ropes come in 30 feet pieces and are doubled over to create more surface are, for a total of 15 feet of working length.

Many people prefer even shorter lengths, in the 23 foot range, again doubled over for more like 11 feet of working length.

Some rope packages come with 5 lengths of 30 and 2 lengths of 15. The lengths of 30 are used for complex ties, while the 15 are used for smaller ties or finishing longer ones where you need just a little more rope.

The 15 foot lengths are again doubled over for a very manageable length of 7.5 feet.

You could cut it into 3 pieces. Two 10 foot lengths and one length of 15. Knot the ends off, or use tape if you do not intend on washing it. This would give you enough for say-

• hands together, feet together
  
• hands together, feet at each corner of foot board
  
• wrists to thighs
  
• wrists to crotch
  
  Very helpful video for learning rope.
  
  Another helpful rope tutorial.
  
  Have you got safety shears?

They are soft refractory bricks. They go by a dozen different names, Kiln bricks, fire bricks, insulating bricks, etc... These are the ones i have but I didn't buy them on amazon. I found a local pottery supply store( If you are in the Mass area I can suggest one) that sold them for $4 a brick.

I think O1 treating process is similar. I heat the steel to 1500F, You can test by seeing if it is non-magnetic (You can see my cheap telescoping magnet on the ground in pic 1) 1084 is non-magnetic at about 1450F or so. Then lower it edge first into the vegetable oil.

This is a great video on the forgeand process but with O1.

One last tip on the forge, don't be cheap on the torch... I had bought the cheap benzo propane torch at first and it didn't get hot enough at all. After trying whatever i could, I finally just bought the benzo ts8000(about $50) and it works wonderfully.

Good for you.

Please learn to play safe. Do not hesitate to say that something bothers you (mentally or physically)

I did my wife's hands up too tight (oops!) and she immediately mentioned the tingling in her fingers. Do not wait to say something is too tight, too rough, etc.

I got this rope (200ft) and it's very soft and doesn't tangle.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004432CHI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, make sure you have a set of sheers like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NG8V9E/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• Basswood is a great material to start with, you can get boxes of practice blanks fairly cheaply online. Poplar works pretty well too and is available at most home improvement stores. Pine is a pretty horrible wood to start with because the grain is loose, inconsistent and prone to splitting. Harder woods like oak will also be difficult to start with.
  
  
• You can start cheap with an x-axto assortment like this, or get a carving knife set like this one.
  
  
• Things like Gouges Chisels and Rasps will be necessary if you want to move on to larger pieces, but good ones are a bigger investment.
  
  
• Spend some time in /r/woodcarving to get a feel for projects you might want to explore on your own.
  
  
• Hit up youtube for "Wood carving basics" or "Whittling basics" You might also look into "Chip Carving" if you want to do surface designs.
  

I just used this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXYWXY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to reassemble a Time Steel that I replaced the battery in. Worked great. It's probably not water proof anymore, but with two layers of it, it's probably at least splash resistant.

I peeled the previous double stick material off (it's actually pretty easy with just fingernails alone) and then placed one layer on the plastic gasket, and one layer on the underside of the screen. Getting the screen reconnected was a little tricky and required the use of a long thin metal tool, you might be okay with just a flathead screwdriver.

Nice! It is all about starting slow and steady with a little bit of a hodgepodge of things for students to try. At our space we started seeing how much our students were not interested in electronics/robotics/high-tech stuff and were leaning towards design, art, and fabrication. So then we started investing resources and people in that direction. My absolute favorite thing we did was buy a MASSIVE sketchbook that became the community sketchbook for anyone to just draw, paint, or whatever they wanted in it. Filled it up in a little over a year and it is totally amazing.

for the record, they do make self-adhesive googly eyes haha, then you don't need the double sided tape! we keep a stash at my work for general fun and merriment lol.

https://www.amazon.com/Creativity-Street-Wiggle-Multi-Pack-AC3437-02/dp/B000F8V66O

I do! Amazon, I’m not sure which ones you’re referring to so here’s links to all three :) I used the fine liners this morning and they’re amazing!

Agutape 48 Rolls Washi Tape Set,Foil Gold Skinny Decorative Masking Washi Tapes,3MM Wide DIY Masking Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782SBNBR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oxu7CbZFA718A

[36 Rolls] 0.5cm/ 0.2 inch Wide Colorful Washi Tapes Assorted Pure Colors, DIY Planner Craft Tape Paper Decor Scrapbooking Sticker Masking Paper Decoration, Gift Wrapping https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HYQQFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Nxu7CbQBFQFJX

Washi Tape Set of 7 Rolls - Travel Planner Daily Life Diary Number Weather Week Date Notebooks Decorative DIY Japanese Masking Adhesive Sticky Paper Washi Tape Set (Width: 15mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GW8FG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cyu7CbXDNRRJN

The local Home Despot is the best place to get started.
You want the kind or rope without a core like
twisted nylon

There are some good resources online for how to do ties. Start with twisted monk

And buy a set of EMT shears
Important in case of emergency either physical or mental.


Very important, it's ok to tap out and stop right in the middle, by either side. Set up a safe word.

After that spend a bunch of time talking about it. What you both liked, didn't like, want to try..

Lately I've had a lot of luck with the Crescent Rendr paper, since it doesn't bleed. I've tried all sorts of papers and Crescent Rendr is most definitely my favorite!

Next to that I really like using a moleskine, or the standard copic marker pad! Both tend to bleed though.

https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Creative-Products-12-00010-Sketchbook/dp/B00915UUUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473735938&sr=8-1&keywords=crescent+rendr

I found my pocket bellows to be a perfect tool for directing air flow for burning. I took to this pretty quickly, though I did find it may be easy to burn completely through the piece if you're not careful. I thinned out the bowl of the spoon much quicker than I anticipated.

The rough shaping of the spoon was done entirely with my GB SFA. I then burned the bowl and finished the spoon with my new carving knife.

It turned out crude but pretty, and maybe slightly too big to eat with. A good coffee scoop!

I won't lie... Cheap Amazon Prime accessible tape.
The two names are as follows;

2mm Clear Double Sided Strong Adhesive Acrylic Tape For Phone LCD Screen Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OQ4Z10?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Eco-Fused Adhesive Sticker Tape for Use in Cell Phone Repair - 2mm Tape - also including 1 Pair of Tweezers / Eco-Fused Microfiber Cleaning Cloth (black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXYWXY8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I know they're cheap, but how much should I spend/what should I search for when I purchase? Computers are my hobby, but I work in kitchens and bake bread full time... Soooo, I'm pretty good with my hands. Application is not the issue here.

I forgot about the epic adventure part until I had already drawn and uploaded the images, so if you could just imagine the two drawings together, maybe swimming in a fish tank full of outer space, or riding on the backs of eagles, that would be great. Heh.

Anitaxjffdskjarizard and 186394.

I will probably end up photoshopping these pictures onto an eagle once I get back from work. Or the fish tank thing. Because that sounds really neat.

Edit: I also forgot to link an art thingie from Amazon. Look at me go today! I have to do it when I get home from work though, 'cause I have to leave, like, this minute.

Edit again: Okay, art thingie. Wasn't sure if it had to be art supplies, or a piece of art to display, so I'll link one of each type of thing just to cover the bases.

Big ass damn sketchbook. The price is listed at $28, but there are offers for $19, which I dunno if that still qualifies. If it's null, just, like.. yell at me or something.

This is art. Stare at the art. You should now feel mentally reinvigorated. If you suspect staring at art has not provided the required intellectual sustenance, reflect briefly on this classical music.

Edit again again: Here you both are in a fish tank full of space.

Get yourself some Scotty Peelers. The plastic ones are pretty safe for surfaces.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aHDzDb2262KP9

These work pretty well too, and your money might go farther

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Scrapers-Replacement-Stickers-Application/dp/B07K1RKLR4

Thanks so much for the response!

Hmmm maybe that's it. What do you mean by casting? Also, I wonder if my needle is too large. I find that to really get it through the holes, I need to push an awl through and the original diamond shape is somewhat lost. As far as ensuring the slant, I think I'm doing this correctly. It's hard to tell from this picture as the stitches rest in a stitching groove, but they had a slight slant, and the backend definitely looked ~ok~ (though a bit messy like you see in the picture as far as looking a bit "twisted")

I agree about the thread gauge too-- maybe it's too thick.

Thread

Needles

Punches

Its hefty for sure. Traveling with this thing is going to be challenging although the 75 lbs (110 gsm) is the paper weight not the shipping weight.
Looks like amazon.uk has an option Big Book

Hope that Helps!

You can trust me, I have [peel and stick googly eyes] (http://www.amazon.com/Peel-Stick-Wiggle-Eye-Sheets/dp/B000F8V66O/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=8MQV9QDIDXV3&coliid=I1OT8LWIY47VG4) on my wishlist. I'll use them for sticking to everything and making the world a sillier place.

Seriously, though. I've had these on my wishlist for a long time and my plan has been to put them on a few robots we have at my work (I'm a research scientist). I promise to post video of them in action if I win!

If you just need to patch a tear, I've used tent-repair tape on my socks with pretty good success.

Amazon washi tape first thing that pops up for me! Super inexpensive and I love the designs

Get a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NG8V9E/

If you end up using neckties you absolutely positively need a pair.

They're cheaper, safer, and better than anything you may have hanging around already.

These are things I bought that work great.
First, the stands;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PEUA30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then the adaptor;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X5QO3B8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And finally the finishing touch for the headpiece;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000F8V66O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's everything you need. But yeah, get them high up, pointing down a bit, and make sure on sturdy flooring so as you're jumping around they don't carry the vibration over and judder.

I totally agree with your gf, I think 20A (what Clone-a-Willy uses) is way too high a shore durometer for realism.

The hardness of an actual erection averages about 10A shore. So once you make an alginate mold, you can pour Smooth-On Dragon Skin 10 silicone into that. If your gf wants the dildo to be squishy and have a soft, skin-like feel, then Dragon Skin 00-50 is a better choice. 00-30 is going to be super-duper squishy and even floppy.

Those silicones are the best choices because they're certified skin-safe.

Unfortunately, you may always have occasional air bubbles if you're not vacuum-degassing silicone.

I recently got some Canson marker paper (100sheets for $15 in my local Michaels) and it works really well! You can only write on one side (the other side seems to repel ink), but that's fine because it's thin enough to see guidelines on a sheet underneath instead of having to draw them for every practice sheet.

Edit: Fixed the link. There are more sizes available on amazon than locally. Will have to note that for myself, because it could be nice to have something larger when my pad runs out.

Hi everyone! Here is the link to these Ecoline brush pens on Amazon.

The paper i'm using is here. It's super smooth and perfect for brush lettering.

The nail polish is Superchic Lacquer Trap Queen ($14).

Not so easy on a book but I buy and sell stuff that often has stickers. I use this sticker removal kit. The plastic scrapers are pretty handy. I actually sharpened the plastic edges with a nail file, works better. Usually I use citrus based cleaning wipes and goo gone as well but that would likely smear the ink on a book cover.

I used cheap stitching chisels from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to punch the holes preassembly. Then glued everything and stitched it up. I don't have a small diamond awl but that would definitely make things a lot easier. I put a bunch of needles through the corner holes to keep them lined up but they naturally fell out of line (because of the outside curve vs the inside curve) so I had to back stitch one side to realign them.

Yeah, those kits are usually pretty cheap too. Way nicer to look at than sharpie, if you've got the time to work on it.

This one on Amazon is under 25 bucks.

Crescent rendr sketchbook, completely bleed proof, watercolors, spray paint, you name it. It's great and cheap. Like 12 bucks on Amazon.

Rendr Hardbound Sketchbook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00915UUUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.AFOybV9C9X58

Peter Draws has a really cool video of this sketch book, he uses a lot of ink in it so if your skeptical just check that out.

I agree with BoonSmith, get an Old-timer for a decent cheap starter. It is a pull carver though (whittler), not really a relief carver (push), yet has decent blades on it. Nice for the price! Bought one for my grand-nephew to get him going.

https://www.amazon.com/24OT-Splinter-Carvin-Traditional-Pocket/dp/B06XRDZ61M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550579581&sr=8-2&keywords=oldtimer+carving+knife

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I'm a Flexcut fan myself and bought their's for traveling (use it quite bit).

https://www.amazon.com/Flexcut-Right-Handed-Multi-Tool-Woodcarving-JKN91/dp/B000ZUBDV0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550579696&sr=8-2&keywords=flexcut+carving+knife

​

​

​

I was thinking about using something like this (flexible mirror sheet). Super easy to work with, no sharp edges and you can roll it up into a tube if you wanted to.

Scotty Peelers are amazing! I bought some of them specifically for removing stickers from Gamestop cases after I bought them after I got tired of peeling them off by hand, having sticky residue left behind, then having my game cases stick together in the shelf.

Any small amount of residue left behind can easily be wiped away with Goo Gone and a washcloth.

These are the ones I use. They are PERFECT. Just barely clear the base so it dont rock. Got the link from a past reddit thread.

Leather pyrography is quite easy and fun, actually. Buy a woodburning kit and do it yourself.

Thats what I was thinking. Do you think this would work? 2mm seems like its the perfect thickness, though it's double sided and I'd only use a single side.

Bring headphones (I listened to audio books). Make sure each team member has their regular department, and have a sign off so u know who did what and that it was finished without hunting them down. Plan your path through the department. With the paper tags u have to tear learn the order and tear them b4 u go out so u have a stack and dont have to tear as you go. When putting out tags do one type at a time, i.e. I started with peg hook tags - square tags - rectangle - etc. This is so u aren't switching between piles or searching. Other than all that just learn to go into zombie mode and it will fly by. You can try a tool like the "Scotty Peeler" if your having issues getting the tags off. I normally put the peg labels on lightly so they peel easy and for things that I know change every week I put a little hanging over so I can tear and go (some leaders dont like this). (back to keeping to your assigned departments) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jiqUBb33F55WF)

I hate that as well, for me if I rush it I end up messing it up so I go slow with good results. If you can get a perfect can and or catch lid out of a roll just use that one. There is also stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA

Thanks! I have a bunch of large thick sheets of styrofoam and a good selection of small Xacto knives (http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X5282-Basic-Knife-Set/dp/B00004Z2UB).

I can't give any tips other than just make sure you plan ahead. In my case I went for a very damaged and abandoned look, so any cutting mistakes would only make it better.

Near the end my dad made an electric styrofoam cutter for me (Basically a wire in between a coping saw with a current going through it). This made cutting thin bits significantly easier and faster, but most of what you see here has been done with the knifes.

I also advice to go with ISO 90 type Styrofoam, as this is much more compressed and will likely look a lot better. I used ISO 60 Styrofoam here, as I could not find 90.

Just take your time, be patient, and it will all work out!

I'm looking for adhesive silicone strips - basically continuous versions of these (https://www.amazon.com/Self-adhesive-Clear-Rubber-Feet-Bumpons/dp/B001JASGH4). Ideally corner orientated pieces too. 3~5mm width, anything wider would probaly look weird.

I need them as 'surround feet' for a box.

TIA for any pointers

OK you've inspired me. Just bought these http://www.amazon.com/Peel-Stick-Wiggle-Eye-Sheets/dp/B000F8V66O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1368210896&sr=8-6&keywords=googly+eyes

I just got 3m double sided tape...Works fantastic. My original one and replacement both fell out. Not hard to fix.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Knotty Boys yet, they have a lot of good tutorials.

Also: If you are going to try rope bondage, please have EMT shears on hand. You can get them for $4 on Amazon. These are designed to cut material off of a person without harming their skin; it is not safe to use regular scissors or a knife to cut rope off of someone in an emergency.

This is how I got started! Bought this book at a Radio Shack when I was just a wee one. Soldered my first project with a wood burning iron.

I would like to say that I'm now a millionaire because of that book, but after two BS's I just engineer part time at a start-up.

Thanks for the nostalgia.

Only need 2 bricks. and the burner is very affordable, albeit a little unsuitable. its the cheapest way to accomplish what he's trying to do. its like the definition of hobbyist tools.

$20 anvil: https://www.harborfreight.com/15-lb-rugged-cast-iron-anvil-69425.html

$4 ea pliers: https://www.harborfreight.com/11-inch-long-reach-needlenose-pliers-with-straight-jaws-39538.html

$1.25 magnet: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-magnetic-welding-holders-93898.html

Your choice of a $9 hammer: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-lb-hardwood-cross-pein-hammer-69049.html or a $6 hammer: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-lb-hardwood-engineers-hammer-69226.html

$38 torch head: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-TS99T-Trigger-Start-Swivel-Torch-Head-TS99T/203694961

$19 fire brick: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VEOIVA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_lUJwCbX49QQN5

$2.30 ea hose clamp: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-7-in-Stainless-Steel-Clamp-6799595/202309383

And maybe $5 in metal corner guard.

Less than $100 in materials. Maybe $30 in shipping? That leaves almost $150 in profit for someone. And it's all poor materials. The only thing that's useful out of all of that for a beginning smith is the hammer. Definitely steer clear.

Thanks! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001T8IEO6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought those after a trial run with a set of 12 for $12. I found that I really only use 1-2 of the gouges anyway. The steel in this set ($33 for 5) is much higher quality than the steel in the $15 range. Eventually I'll save up and get a much better set, but if I keep these sharp they'll last me awhile I think.

Do you not worry about the grass underneath catching from the heat of the bowl? I wonder if putting a couple of these under it would help? Maybe you don't have to worry about grass fires in the UK? I am in Oregon and grass fires are a huge worry here.

I get these, but there are better ones! Namely anything with 3M on them.

I used Tenacious Tape on a down jacket and its held up great.

http://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE

Bumpons - They work great, they add weight, and are very reliable

http://www.amazon.com/Self-adhesive-Clear-Rubber-Feet-Bumpons/dp/B001JASGH4

I was recommended this stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/McNett-Tenacious-Tape-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE/ref=pd_lpo_200_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=JE4Y4RXE3TRKTR73BV46 by Mark from IR -- apparently it's pretty bomber.

Not quite, but here is something you could possibly go off of... :)

You can go out to any place that sells lumber, home depot, lowes, or just a hardware store. Birch plywood is a good start, but it splinters a lot when cutting it. I would recommend MDF board, it cuts easy and is great for beginners. After that youll just need a set of woodcutting tools, I would suggest getting this set, since its cheap and still pretty good. Use a sharpie to draw/plan out your image and make sure youre cutting out the negative spots, the parts that you want to keep white. You'll also need ink, you can get speedball (its cheap), a brayer, and a wooden spoon to burnish the image on to paper. As far as paper goes, I would suggest using mulberry at first, its thin so you can see what you are doing during the burnishing process.

So the steps as follows:

• Draw image in block
  
• Cut out negative areas, the part you want to keep white
  
• Roll out ink slap, on something hard and smooth
  
• Ink up block
  
• Place paper over block, where you want it lined up
  
• Use wooden spoon to rub over entire image evenly
  
• Pull paper up slowly
  
• Enjoy your new print!

You could certainly patch it with nylon and some sewing skills, but I would probably use gear repair tape for something minor like that.

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE

I just bought these (arrive today so no report, free shipping through 11/9) trying to upgrade/add on to this which was great to start (super sharp on arrival) with but lacks a bigger gouge.

I really like powergrip. You can buy a set of them on amazon. Here's the five piece set.

I've been using this sketchbook. It has bleedproof pages that I've been really impressed with.

It looks good! If you have ~$20 to spend you can get a groover ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074YD8DXY/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506701984&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=leather+working+tools&dpPl=1&dpID=51qIiFoZwYL&ref=plSrch ) and stitching prongs? I'm not sure of the technical term ( www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T17OULI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506702124&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=leather+stitching+punch&psc=1 )

I put these rubber feet next to where the little plastic bumps on the bottom towards the back of the keyboard are: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JASGH4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465585240&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=21KThbUYKEL&ref=plSrch

Fixed it immediately. You can also put them over the screw holes, but I prefer to leave those open for easy access to the innards.

Maybe this tape

https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549321426&sr=8-4&keywords=Electronics+adhesive

Or maybe this adhesive?

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electronic-Grade-Silicone-Squeeze/dp/B07MKBBQTC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549321426&sr=8-3&keywords=Electronics+adhesive

I'm not an expert on this, just trying to help and maybe give you an idea.

Gore-Tex should work, I used one on a pair on snowboarding pants about 8 years ago and the patch is still holding strong through 5 or 6 washings. I don't see why it wouldn't work on a sleeping pad. I actually carry one in my repair kit out on the trail for a sleeping pad or rain jacket/pants haven't used it yet on those items but I know it worked damn well on my pants.

EDIT: Hmm, I think the gore-tex I linked and the Tenacious Tape are the same thing just under different names?

They look the same and both are made by gear aid, the gore-tex package says "Tenacious Tape". Now I'm curious, might have to do some tests.

Oh and I'm getting these
http://www.amazon.com/Sketches-Making-Giant-Hardcover-Sketch/dp/B0025TZ30G/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1418088587&sr=1-2

http://www.amazon.com/Sakura-Pigma-Sensei-Manga-Drawing/dp/B001463RWW/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1418088761&sr=1-6

Thankfully my birthday is this saturday and christmas is coming up too, so I should get enough money to buy all of these.

Oh no, there goes my paycheck. I can't pass up a good deal on washi. This is a really cool set that I use for detailed work. It's really thin so you can do some unique things with it. Sticks well, too! If it's on an outer envelope, I usually hide the ends under a stamp or sticker just to be safe.

Does this look like a good start?

He already has a knife but this looks to cover some of his other needs.

This may be an easy fix for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE/ref=pd_lpo_200_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=WD6WP7TXEVH39VR0D4WA

It is better to use this stuff, http://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8

That is what was used in the first place. Remove the tape, place new, and compress.

This is a good beginner kit: http://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-Deluxe-Woodburning-Kit/dp/B0019X78P2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1369851128&sr=8-7&keywords=walnut+hollow+burner

See my post here about the types of wood to use: http://www.reddit.com/r/Pyrography/comments/1d29gw/new_to_pyrography_what_wood_should_be_used/c9md6bj

I use these to actually punch the holes on thinner leather: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/

For projects, you can do slightly larger bags, dop kits, etc if you go for a fabric lining, duck cloth or canvas would add good reinforcement.

I've got one of these and I like it a lot, but I recall paying only about $70 for it. Not sure why the price increased so dramatically over the last five years.

Maybe a nice wood burning kit?

Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019X78P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_vam2Ab4TXJC3E

If your lino tools are getting worn out and/or you just want to upgrade, these are excellent and well-priced carving tools. I use them for woodblock carving.

I know you already have it off, but wanted to share for anyone else removing stickers. Scotty peeler was a life changer for me and boat stickers, and now any stickers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068QIQVA/

I started by using a plastic fork, until it was time to up my model making game and I purchased a set of Amtech tools. Not the best quality, but they work really well for the price that I paid.

Here are the ones that I purchased: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Piece-Stainless-Steel-Wax-Carving/dp/B000V6MTDO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493756622&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=clay+moulding+tools+amtech

I like this, or they have adhesive ones.https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Mirror-Sheets-Cuttable-Plastic/dp/B01BU99K6E/ref=pd_sim_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7D9S28ZGY7YBZN1P0CPA

You might like these.
48 Rolls Washi Tape Set,Foil Gold Skinny Decorative Masking Washi Tapes,3MM Wide DIY Masking Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782SBNBR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Carving tools to make spoons? Or general whittling. Something like this.

like this

These are doing well for me.

• Sakura Pigma Microns
  
  
• Canson marker pad

I'll just leave this here. OP must do the rest.

Creativity Street Peel and Stick Wiggle Eyes Multi-Pack, 60 -Piece Pack (AC3437-02) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F8V66O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_MifTzbJ90T4CR

No problem. :)

I'd recommend these too if you wanna get finer details in.

I'd also invest in some fine grain sand paper.

This reminds me, I need to go figure out what scissors they gave me at work because as a lefty it's one that works fantastic, and that's probably one of the worst things you have to deal with as a lefty. More than half the scissors on the planet are totally useless for left-handed people. Especially the ones in grade school that would just crease paper if you used them in your left hand.

edit: Someone actually linked them lower in the comments. These are beautiful.

https://smile.amazon.com/Westcott-Titanium-Scissors-Straight-Handle-13901/dp/B000P0LNRE

Here's an easy fix I've used on my HHKB that solved all my problems with it slipping around:

apply these rubber feet on the bottoms of your HHKB. You might be able to find cheaper ones at a hardware store.

Tenacious Tape may work well for this repair.

Also, do you find that your heels are slipping when you run? There has to be a reason for the premature material failure...

I would go with a phone adhesive tape https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8 It's a quick fix until you get a replacement, or you could apply a wet glue (specific for phone) if you want to use it more. In my experience, the tape will be fine for a while.

I'd try these, they work well for this type of thing.
https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495114588&sr=8-1&keywords=scotty+peeler

Take the glass out and use the sticker mirrors. You could also apply right over top if you want it done faster:

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Mirror-Sheets-Cuttable-Plastic/dp/B01BU99K6E/

Tenacious Tape is the industry standard for repairs in breathable fabric. Has worked well for me in the past, and unlike duct tape it is specifically made for use with technical fabrics.

Titanium scissors like these aren't actually titanium but steel with a thin surface coating of a titanium compound (probably titanium nitride).

Titanium metal scissors would go blunt very fast compared to a steel pair.

I'm using these round ones I ordered on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JASGH4/

Just added one on each nut that holds the plates together.

I can see where you'd think that, but they're actually grey with an orange interior. Mostly grey.

https://www.amazon.com/Westcott-Titanium-Scissors-Straight-Handle-13901/dp/B000P0LNRE

10/10 scissors 100%

How does it compare to Tenacious Tape? https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE

You could probably use some of this stuff.

Eco-Fused Adhesive Sticker Tape for Use in Cell Phone Repair - 2mm Double Sided Tape - also including 1 Pair of Tweezers / Microfiber Cleaning Cloth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXYWXY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WNmJAbWCEV019

So it's $5 for two rolls or you could go on Amazon and get 48 rolls of 3mm washi tape for $7.79 or 24 Rolls of 15mm Washi Tape for $10.95

BRO
http://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peeler-Label-Sticker-Removers/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406151845&sr=8-1&keywords=scotty+peeler

The company is called Oh Boy Artifacts and they’re not currently making any products. I found one similar here but I think it might be bigger than yours

One teacher here does these pop-quiz questions and the table that gets the most correct get 1 wiggle eye for each person in the table. Kids here eat them up (not literally, thankfully.)

This.

Walnut Hollow Deluxe Woodburning Kit by Walnut Hollow http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019X78P2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_uvSttb1W8SKB6

or buy double sided sticky tape. these are the kind they use in phone nowadays https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467497800&sr=8-1&keywords=cellphone+tape or go to a walmart/staples for these http://www.staples.com/Scotch-Double-Sided-Tape-with-Dispenser/product_SS940458

Get a set of these Scotty Peelers. For sticky residue you can use rubbing alcohol or Goo Gone. I've also seen people suggest lighter fluid or hairspray, although I've not personally used either.

I've never heard them called surgical scissors but I've always called them tramua sheers, and they're quite cheap

I use scotty peelers I had laying around. They were made to remove store price stickers. They have a thin sharp edge that really gets under the print. https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491591135&sr=8-2&keywords=sticker+remover

https://www.amazon.com/Art-Alternatives-Hardcover-Sketchbook-Giant-Sketchbook-600/dp/B0025TZ30G/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1536696244&sr=8-7&keywords=sketchbook+hard

This isn't a journal but might still work, really big sketchbook I've been eyeballing.

I got you fam

With these, I've made all my headphones wireless. Only $7.98 at the moment.

I got you

Flexcut Right-Handed Carvin' Jack, Folding Multi-Tool for Woodcarving, 4 1/4 inch Closed Length, 6 Blades Included (JKN91) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZUBDV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ApLRDbCRCAX6V

Even cheaper option

Peel and Stick Googly Eyes

128

I see, maybe try this: Adhesive Sticker Tape for Use in Cell Phone Repair - 2mm Tape - als... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXYWXY8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_72jfvb14M5AGV

If you're in the US, Michael's arts & crafts carries the 9x12 [Canson XL Marker Paper] (http://www.amazon.com/Canson-Xl-Marker-Pad-9X12/dp/B00BN9PFRK), 100 sheets for about $10. It's semi-translucent, so you can slip a guide sheet underneath.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QCM27Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1411517919&sr=8-5&pi=SL75

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000F8V66O?cache=faa4de1ec5dce58f3e533641d9b80480&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405642276&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H9BEC8E?cache=faa4de1ec5dce58f3e533641d9b80480&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405642331&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QTXKB0?cache=faa4de1ec5dce58f3e533641d9b80480&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405642475&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

here ya go

Adhesive: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXYWXY8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

And the bezel was 0050!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Z2UB?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title&th=1

I got these needles: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001687P3U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these punches: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T17OULI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just replaced my screen 2 days ago.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LF6IVC2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

and

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXYWXY8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


You will also need superglue.

It's more of a DIY

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025TZ30G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000FWCQ78&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0YAA9ZE1DMG7NCNCCYJJ

The problem is the water. They aren't meant to be filled with water. Otherwise, you would use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Repair-Fabric/dp/B005BLQTEE

This mainly because I used up every sketchbook I had from October 2015 to October of last year for my self imposed yearlong Inktober.

Scotty Peeler is the god at removing price stickers. You will also need to use blow dryer/heat gun to activate the glue, whilst removing the tag. Check youtube for more info.

If there is some glue leftover (usually the case for old old tag) then you can try using googone or similar products.

absolutely. For most, Goo Gone and a rag will work. For very stuck on ones, I have a Wagner heat gun that I will blast it for a few seconds and it will lift right off.

Scotty Peelers are also a very useful tool for removing stickers.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peeler-Label-Sticker-Removers/dp/B0068QIQVA

I have a lot of leftover double-sided LCD screen tape, so I just used that. It comes off without any damage, fading, or residue after months of staying on the Joycon. I suspect you could probably use regular 3M double-sided tape without issue though.

Tenacious Tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE

This stuff is just shy of magic. I repaired a tear on my snowshoes and 3 trips later its still holding.

Put a piece of tenacious tape on both sides going 1" past the tear. It will hold forever.

No burnt fingers

http://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peeler-Label-Sticker-Removers/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405034470&sr=8-1&keywords=scotty+peeler

You don't "need" to put an adhesive, but if you don't, you risk dust getting beneath your lens and stuck onto the screen, which obviously isn't ideal.

I put 3mm double sided sticky tape. I used this one from Amazon.

You might be able to find a smaller roll of tape, but you really don't want to go more than 7mm IMO. I chose 3mm because I use it for other projects. I just put two tape pieces like this along every edge of the screen:

||

And definitely no glue unless you want to risk a runny mess and never take off your lens again.

Hello.

A lot of things can go badly wrong with even basic bondage. For that reason, I really don't recommend learning it by trying it for yourself. The best way to learn bondage is to have it taught to you in person.

The good news is, bondage people are very open and usually offer workshops in any big city. If you go to one, expect to walk into a room full of people who you are in no way sexually attracted to, including some that are slightly sexually repulsive to you. But stay anyway. Keep your clothes on. Listen and learn.

In addition to safety, a workshop will teach you a few really fun knots, tell you the best kinds of rope and where to buy it, how to clean things afterwards, and all sorts of other useful tips.


If you ignore that advice-- which is really the best advice-- here are a few things to watch out for. It's three tips that will prevent you from injuring somebody.

1. Cutting off circulation. Wrists are surprisingly easy to fuck up badly in a short amount of time. Fucked up wrists don't always hurt while they are getting damaged.
   
   
2. Subs passing out. I have witnessed a healthy man tied up as a demo, just standing there, suddenly go weak and topple over. Fortunately, a bunch of us were standing around watching and kept him from hitting the ground. He came around and was fine. I've also had a young guy tied up as my sub when-- again, for no apparent reason-- he started to go into light shock... shivering and going weak. Again, I got him out of rope and as soon as he warmed up, he was fine. Something about even light bondage fucks with some people in significant ways.
   
   
3. Obviously, don't get a rope near the side or front of the neck. It can put pressure on the carotid arteries.
   
   With respect to number one, beginners should not use rope on hands or wrists. Go to Mr. S. (reputable shop) and get a set of nice basic padded wrist restraints. They have tie-points on the outside of the restraint. A lot of beginners seem to think that restraints are for the hard-core people. But the reality is just the opposite: restraints are there for beginners to not fuck up.
   
   With respect to number two, never leave anyone tied up alone. Always be prepared with a set of EMT scissors. Note that these are sharp enough to cut rope, but the points are blunted so you can stick them between the rope and skin (eg: neck) without cutting. It's to get somebody out of rope if they pass out or if your knots go wrong and start to self-tighten.
   
   Always have an escape plan: for example, never clip a wrist restraint to a metal chain: tie it with rope instead so you can cut it if the sub passes out suddenly.
   
   Don't leave arms tied elevated for a long period in an early session. It causes a lot of stress to the body. Try it for ten minutes the first time, and if that goes well, try it for 20 minutes.
   
   Start slow. Try something briefly. see how the sub feels the next day. Try it again longer/harder if it works. Know what a safeword is. Don't jump right into rape play. Don't jump right into gags.
   
   That's sorta the first 10 minutes of a bondage talk. But really, go to one and get it for real.

I have obtained similar items when buying iphones and video game consoles. I can't recommend these particular ones, but the cords I have come in handy. First one is for the several different apple products, 2nd link is for ps2/ps3, wii and xbox 360. The particular one I have has an adapter for some older nintendo consoles.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Universal-Charging-Lighting-Samsung/dp/B01AK5AYIM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487358894&sr=8-2&keywords=multi+apple+cord

https://www.amazon.com/MADCATZ-MOV06155V-Universal-Component-Cable-1-8m/dp/B000IAPGIS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487358985&sr=8-2&keywords=universal+video+game+cord

This things pretty handy. Is it the device that's broken or are my batteries dead:
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-BAT-200-Battery-Tester/dp/B005G7SBY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487359100&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=battery+tester&psc=1

scotty peeler

goo gone

barkeepers friend

magnifiying glass with light good for looking at little markings or tiny text

upc scanner