(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best electronic accessories & supplies

Help! Comfortable Closed Back Headphone Needed.

• Budget - £150 (approx $215)
  
• Source - Laptop / Desktop computer with headphone amp.
  
• Requirements for Isolation - Good isolation. Using mostly at home, so don't mind a bit of leak.
  
• Will you be using these headphones in public - No.
  
• Preferred Type of Headphone - Closed Back, Over Ear.
  
• Preferred Tonal Balance - Good, neutral, wide sound. I don't mind a bit of emphasis on the low and high ends, as long as they are well controlled and not muddy. I actually quite liked the bassiness of the ATH-M50x, but a bit more control would be nice.
  
• Past Headphones - Sennheiser HD 215 - very comfortable and they do sound good but looking for an upgrade.
  
• AKG K72 - don't sound too bad for the price, a bit muffled and lacking clarity. Like the design and very comfortable.
  
• AKG K550 - sounded amazing but I had a significant problem with comfort. After about 30 mins use, a real burning pain starts to slowly grow right at the crown of my head where the top of the headband rests. An hour in and it's pretty unbearable. As a result, they sat in my cupboard, unused for two years. I tried using them again a couple of weeks ago, but had the same issue, so I've been forced to sell them.
  
• Audio Technica ATH-M50x - I would say that in terms of sound, these were definitely a bit of a downgrade. The overall sound is just a lot more muddied and coloured, and the soundstage is nowhere near as good as the K550s. They are a bit more comfortable, but not by much. I can only really use them for about 2 hours before I am in considerable pain from the headband. I think I will be returning these and trying to find something more comfortable.
  
• Preferred Music - Listen to a bit of everything. Primarily EDM, Pop, Rock, Alternative, Classical.
  
• What would you like to improve on from your set-up - Comfortable! For long periods. I think I might be better off with lighter headphones, since the pain is always due to pressure at the top of my head.
  -Good, neutral, wide sound. I don't mind a bit of emphasis on the low and high ends, as long as they are well controlled and not muddy.
  
  With this is mind, a couple of candidates so far:
  
  
• Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm - from what I've heard, supposed to be pretty comfortable. Link: [DT770] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Beyerdynamic-DT770-Pro-Headphones-Ohm/dp/B0016MNAAI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463390210&sr=1-1&keywords=dt770)
  
• Sennheiser HD 380 Pro - again, supposed to be pretty comfortable and quite light. Not sure these are much of an upgrade in terms of sound. Link: HD 380
  
• AKG K271 Mk II - Lightweight and have a similar headband design to a pair of AKG K72 I have, which are really comfy. Link: [K271] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/AKG-K271-MKII-Circumaural-Headphones/dp/B0016MOC28/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1463389006&sr=1-3&keywords=akg+closed)
  
  What would you recommend out of these 3? Any better alternatives in my price range?
  
  If anyone can offer any advice or help, it would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  

If you're only seeing large dust particles on the surface but not hearing much in terms of popping and crackling, then I'd go with just a basic carbon fiber brush like this AudioQuest one. If you're new to vinyl and don't already have one, it's a good thing to pick up anyway. It's good practice to brush each side before each spin. While these types of brushes won't clean a truly dirty record, they'll help your clean records stay clean.

If your records are noticeably loud and noisy then you'll probably have to go the route of wet cleaning. I see kits like this one a lot but I don't think they're really worth the money. You can do a better (and cheaper) job with:

• Microfiber Cloths - Run them all through a cycle in your washing machine (just water, no detergent) to get rid of any fuzz.
  
• Isopropyl Alcohol & Distilled Water - Put a solution of 1 part alcohol and 2 parts water into a spray bottle. You could even use as little as 1 to 4, I don't think it makes a huge difference. Make sure to get 90% plus alcohol and avoid any types of additives like menthol.
  
  You can lay one cloth flat to set the record on, spray it down and scrub around lightly with one of the cloths (it can help to dampen this with the distilled water). Personally I like to then dry the record with another cloth, spray it down with just distilled water to rinse it then dry again and repeat on the other side but you can find a method/system that works for you. If you're being super particular about it then remember to flip and replace the cloth the record is on so as not to contaminate the side you just cleaned. Also if you're worried about getting your labels wet, car applicator pads like these actually cover a label almost perfectly and they can also be used in place of a microfiber cloth to scrub the record, they work great.
  
  If you plan on sticking with vinyl for awhile though it's worth it to save up for a SpinClean. I was a skeptic for a long time but I'm glad I finally got one, it really is worth the money. It does a good job, it's well built and it's stupidly easy to use. If $80 seems too steep for a yellow plastic trough (which it really is, unfortunately) there are cheaper models such as this. Doesn't have a lid and comes with different cleaning fluid but it doesn't seem like a half bad option.
  
  Whichever option you go with always make sure you're putting your newly cleaned records into clean inner sleeves. If they were dirty in those sleeves it's very likely those sleeves are dirty too. Also remember to keep your turntable mat and stylus clean.

This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.

I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.

As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.

/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.

Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out

>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.

In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.

You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.

All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.

I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.

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^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.

> ... how do you get the best possible quality out of a set of PC headphones for gaming and streaming services like Netflix? Say you had a budget of $200. Do you spend it all on headphones? Is a sound card important here? Is a headphone amp? I'm interested in how each of these work with a PC specifically.

That's a good question. For under $200 for an entire setup you're likely not going to need a separate amp. Most headphones in this price range will be low impedance, so they won't need much power anyway. Depending on your PC you might have a decent onboard DAC on your motherboard. If you built your PC and the motherboard cost over $50 your sound should be quite good, so I wouldn't recommend eating into the budget of your headphones. However, if you feel like you get any background noise from your headphone ports or want something with slightly better sound, you could get a fairly cheap DAC/amp like this one. (Keep in mind this will take away from the budget of your headphones). If you do buy a DAC, make sure it has some kind of built in headphone amp or that it doesn't require extra amplification.

For $200 this is what I would recommend buying for movies/tv, music and gaming:

• Option 1: 200 bucks on a single pair of headphones; that's it. If you feel like your motherboard has decent sound, then put all of the money into what will make the biggest difference; the cans on your ears. Spend as much as you can on a good pair that fits your tastes in sound characteristics. For a closed headphone you have lots of choices, too many to list or recommend. For open cans the AKG Q701 is fantastic for detail and sound stage and is under $200 currently.
  
  
• Option 2: If you don't like the quality of sound coming from your motherboard (static, noise or low dynamic range) you could spend around $50-$100 on a fairly good DAC/amp and then spend $150-$100 on a quality pair of headphones. If you want closed cans, I would look at the ATH-M50 series or Sennheiser HD-380s which are on a fantastic sale. (I own the 380s, they are phenomenal for that price). If you want open headphones the Fidelio L1s are crazy cheap right now.
  
  Personally, I wouldn't buy an internal PCI sound card for a few reasons. For one, they are in close proximity to high voltage/amperage components which can introduce EMI and noise into the signal. Also many internal sound cards aren't as good for the money as an external DAC/amp and they often have really iffy driver support and need updates. External setups usually don't need to be touched and are pretty much universally compatible since it's just USB or optically connected. The biggest benefit of an external DAC/amp is the portability and ability to easily use it on another computer, laptop, phone or other device.

A little quick research shows these things.

1. Adding AUX to the factory JBL unit requires soldering onto the main circuit board of the radio after disassembly. No professional installer is going to do that. Period.
   
2. You can use an inline AUX/antenna adapter. They're $25 most places. It still uses the FM transmitter model, but it fits inline between the antenna and the head unit. The inline models interrupt the signal from the external antenna and provide a much cleaner sound. iSimple IS31 is an example. Removal of your head unit is an easy job for any installer, and fitting that thing in there is pretty easy. Most installers will begrudgingly do this for you, probably cost you $100 in labor plus parts. They'll be more likely to want to do this step if you're buying speakers at the same time.
   
3. Research your car at Crutchfield. Find the parts you want to fit your budget. Then make the next decision:
   
   1. Buy from Crutchfield and install it yourself. A reasonably handy friend can help. Your car is stupid easy to work on. Doesn't take many tools. You might be averse to installing it yourself, but if you're talking about buying shit on eBay you're obviously on a budget. Consider it again.
      
   2. Use the research to set your budget. Take your new knowledge to a reputable shop. Most places I've been will have nearly identical pricing to Crutchfield for parts and will of course charge you time and materials to do the installation. Expect $75-$85 per hour for the install. Some shops have a standard like $100 for basic installation of a head unit and a per-door speaker cost. They'll do a nice job, but you'll pay for it.
      
      Speakers...
      
      

• Your car has tweeters in the dash, one in each door, and the sub in the rear deck.
  
  • There are no tweeters (dash) that I've found that will fit without modification. You'll either have to buy eBay/junkyard replacements or go surface mount. Or find somebody willing to do the modifications.
    
  • Front and rear door speakers are easy and are as cheap as $40/pair. Probably cheaper if you're in Walmart mode.
    
  • Subwoofer (center of rear deck) is also easy. Probably $70+ for a nice one, less for something that'll work.
    
    That "thing under the passenger seat" is the factory JBL amplifier. There are kits now that will either bypass that factory amp or interface with it, depending on what you want. If you bypass it, your factory subwoofer goes away. Again, Crutchfield research.
    
    Shout out to Real Time Audio & Accessories for their work. They're a touch north of Gwinnett, but close enough and not far off of I-985 at Spout Springs.
    
    ​
    
    Have fun with it and good luck.
    
    ​

I think I'll just take my Nokia 1616 with me. It's a bare bones, go-phone that I popped my SIM card into. It only has an 800mAh battery, but doesn't have any data connection whatsoever (purely GSM), and lasts usually 3-6 days with me calling and texting a usual amount. It weighs < 78.5g, and has a standby time of 540 hours. With minimal talking and texting (I'm wanting disconnectivity), I should get at least 2 weeks/charge.

The reason the filter is in there is that it's the easiest means of physically removing microbes, but given the price, I think I might stick with a standard 2 or 3 liter Platypus + chemicals (Aquamira, no iodine).

I meant to remove the light, I was kinda looking for LED lamps, but cherryhammer recommended that I look for a certain type at Target. And the RidgeRest (very average, I know) is a roll-up type; however, I fit rolls in my backpack, so I'll just have to see if there's sufficient space. And with the Z seat being 2 oz, I'm happy to have a little more convenience and comfort.

And I'm thinking I want the three, even if I don't fill it up fully ever. The difference between a 2 liter and a 3 liter is just a few grams. I'm sure the Northern summer portion will definitely make it worthwhile.

And I'm stoked I found that product at that price! For reference for anybody, it's the Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition. It's $15, weighs 3.9 oz, fits "with any screw top butane / propane canisters, available just about anywhere, MSR, coleman, camping gaz, etc.", and this is what one user showed at a 5% and a 95% flame. I have no affiliation with the company, but seriously, go read the reviews. I might make a can stove(s) and bring alcohol with me, just for easier refilling and weight's sake.

My pack is water-resistant to some degree, but I'm not gonna risk it. I've been in snowy conditions, never rain, but there was condensation on the inside of my pack, and it actually frosted/froze a bit, which I'm sure compromised the strength of the waterproofing.

I've since scrapped the pants (mostly everybody has suggested so), and now have just the 1 pair of liners, and added another pair of mesh shorts, for a grand total of two.

Many thanks for your insight!

I can't answer all of it, but I don't think lossless files necessarily have poor metadata support. It may just be that the sources you are getting these files from didn't bother with it.

If you have an apple i-phone it probably sounds better because it has a good built in DAC, some other phones may have this too, or it may just be that your computer isn't set up properly

yes a better soundcard can increase your sound quality, but you're probably better off buying an external DAC and using a WASAPI output. [Chart] I have a Fiio E17 and im getting a Aune T1 soon :)

As far as headphones i recommend a pair of Sennheiser 598's for $250 or if that's too pricey the Audio-Technica ATH-M50's are a great pair of phones for $160

A lot of this stuff goes on sale occasionally, there was recently a sale for the Fiio DAC where it was only $90. I'd recommend signing up for massdrop.com and looking for some good deals there and elsewhere

Oh right, well, in case you haven't actually done an overnighter, just expect some bumps, especially if you haven't encountered adverse conditions, say overnight in the rain, or whatever. I guess that's part of the fun.

I have been using an MSR pocket rocket and I like it a lot. As long as it's not super cold where you are, it should work fine. If you want to shed weight, you can try an alcohol stove. I can't speak to it's effectiveness yet, but I'm experimenting with a DIY "super cat" stove on my next trip. But if having hot food is vital to the enjoyment of your trip, you may want to stick with something fool proof like the pocket rocket on your first few multiday trips. If you want to save a few bucks you might try this $6 pocket rocket knock off. http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition-silvery/dp/B004U8CP88/

For water filtration, I bring a sawyer squeeze and aqua mira drops as a backup. Just make sure if you go somewhere where it's freezing, to keep the filter on you to keep it warm. If I was buying something today, I'd get the sawyer mini. Both are 0.1 micron, have a fantastic life span and are easy to operate.

I hike without a beacon but I don't get too far out there either. Just be sure to let someone you trust know when and where you're leaving and when and where you're getting back, and any other details about your trip that you may be able to provide. You probably already know this. Just get out there and see how it goes.

From my experience of being a poor college student who loves the outdoors, take advantage of bargain gear, Craigslist, and thrift stores. Yes, if you buy titanium cookware, an ultralight 4 season tent, and a 0.2 micron purifier you will be good to go, but you will also have an empty wallet.


Some good cheap items that I still use today from time to time:

Stanley Cook Pot from Target/Walmart: This $12-$15 foldable cook pot will snugly fit a small fuel canister and this stove http://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451241733&sr=8-2&keywords=backpacking+stove+piezo , plus some aluminum foil and seasoning packets, etc. Find a bowl and cup for cheap and bring some top ramen and oatmeal packets (plus some freeze dried veggies, fruit, and jerky) and you have an entire cooking set up plus breakfast and dinner for somewhere in the range of $30.

For water purification you can buy a Coghlan's purifier and iodine tablets for about $20 combined. The iodine tablets taste terrible, so I would highly recommend having a good purifier being one of your first major purchases (after boots).

Sleeping bag and backpack can be bought from Craigslist or army surplus for cheap. Sleeping bags are rough because the price and quality difference between the mid-end and high-end stuff is huge, in my opinion, but you make do with what you have.

Most other essentials (compass, waterproof matches, paracord, etc.) can be bought pretty cheap. I'm not entirely sure what the opinion of Coghlans is on this sub, but I have not bought a product from them I didn't like. I would not expect to own anything they make for life, but for the money it is usually pretty good.

As far as deciding where to go, places like Reddit are excellent. Look at a Google Maps view of your area and find the green space. Look up any national forests, parks, or monuments in your area and find out what kind of opportunities they have. A good sign of a quality wilderness experience is dispersed camping opportunities, in my opinion.


Lastly, only experience will tell you what you don't need to pack, do need to pack, etc. I used to only bring one compass until I got lost and started doubting my compass. Thankfully my hiking partner had a gps tool, especially since my compass was indeed malfunctioning. Now I have a light compass I bring along that I can use as a sanity check in case I begin to doubt my main one.

For electronic music (I listen to 90% drum and bass, and also great sound for games, I cannot recommend the sennheiser HD-380 pro. The bass extension into the sub bass is fantastic, much better than my HD650. It fits all of your needs, except it is closed and has a lot of isolation.

There are plenty of reviews on amazon that express how they enjoy the hd380 over the ATH-M50x.

I find the isolation great for gaming, especially in shooters because it blocks out the external noise and allows you to hear footsteps perfectly in their correct direction.

It has a neutral signature which makes it a great overall headphone. I broke my first pair because I left it on the floor, and immediately replaced it.

Great for movies as well. Explosions really rumble thanks to the fabulous bass extension. But the audible bass isn't bloated, it flows smoothly into the great midrange.

The HD598 is more purely a musical headphone. It has a 1/4" jack which is made more high end home audio. While the hd 380 pro has a standard 3.5mm jack which will fit in your computer's soundcard.
The hd 380 pro also has bigger earcups, which I find comfortable because my ears hurt if the cups rest on them or touch them.

I bought them for full retail in 2010 for $200 and they were definitely worth the price. Now they are $150 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-380-PRO-Headphones/dp/B001UE6I0G

Don't let this hooligans fool ya. LED's are awesome, more screens the better. I'm not sure if you use that box as a foot stool but if not you should move it so you have room for your feet.

1. As someone else said move the LED strip to the back of your desk.
   
   
   
2. Again as someone else said move that one speaker to the correct side. However, you don't need to discard a monitor for that. Just put it behind where the monitors meet. So long as the speaker isn't covered too much it shouldn't hinder sound coming out of it. Heck, if you wanted you could lay the speaker on its side. I'm not much of an audiophile and don't have those speakers so your mileage may vary. Are those speakers hooked up to a stereo, computer, or maybe a DAC? If it's a DAC then you could easily mount that to the underside of the desk with some double sided tape or Velcro tape. I prefer Velcro tape myself.
   
   
   
3. Once more, as someone said mount those headphone somewhere when you're not using them. Seems you have space to the left of your desk for that. If you like using that space yourself then you could just mount a holder on the underside of your desk. They're super cheap on Amazon, and anything like this will work fine.
   
   
   
4. It's hard to see how much cable clutter you have. Best thing you can do is bundle as many cables together as possible. A good way to do this is with veclro ties. The more peripherals you get the more cables you have. Some will have their own power bricks and some will have cable length as if you were supposed to use the thing in another room. To deter this I would recommend cable trays to mount to the bottom of the desk. One other thing that can help for cable management is a cable sleeve which is helpful for tiding up those cables as they go to your PC.
   
   
   
5. Basically mount anything and everything you can to the bottom of your desk to hide as much as possible from view.

Budget $120

Source Nexus 7, ASUS Z77 Extreme4 Motherboard, PS4

Requirements for Isolation I don't mind being able to hear my surroundings a bit, I'd like very little sound leakage though. Isolation isn't a deal breaker unless the isolation is particularly bad for a closed headphone.

Preferred Type of Headphone Over-ear closed

Preferred tonal balance Never owned a good pair of headphones so I can't say based on experience, but from what I read I think neurtal/articulate/imaging/accurate/nice soundstage headphones would be best.

Past Headphones Best headphones I've owned have been super cheap ones. Best thing I've owned sound wise is a Turtle Beach PX22 Headset ($60)

Preferred Music I'm mostly using these for gaming/watching videos/listening to podcasts, I don't have a specific music I listen to, but the first real thing I plan to do with these headphones is playing Dragon Age: Inquisition, [here] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQDs5P42MNg) is the main theme for that, I like this kind of music atm.

Location USA

Headphones I Narrowed Down To - Feel free to recommend something else though

Sennheiser HD 380 Pro $114.99

[NVX Audio XPT100] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093PVTPS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3QWSZ44N8P3XH) $79.99

Audio Technica ATH-A700X $99.99 -

[KAM HP1] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/KAM-HP1-Reference-Headphones-for-Recording-Studio-Audiophiles-B-Stock-/221620705687?pt=US_DJ_Monitoring_Headphones&hash=item33999f9997) $81.44 Not much info on these, basing this consideration solely off [this] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/648810/review-kam-hp1-an-unknown-headphone-that-rivals-the-hm5) review

If you want good sound people here have nailed it pretty good. Sansa Clip sounds pretty good even out of the box.

Cowon are known for having good sound as well. I would recommend at some point if you want something that sounds really good - look at getting a DAC or DAC/AMP combo - these things really enhance MP3s - they will make you say "oh wow..." especially if you are using good headphones. I have 3 DACs and I recently just heard the FiiO E17 and was really impressed with it - particularly for 100 bucks.


Get the sansa and look later into a DAC/AMP combo. Even with the DAC you are under 200 bucks. :)

FiiO E17 - 121.99 http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW

Also look at FiiO E10 - I have one of these, very happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373074173&sr=1-10&keywords=FiiO

Hey! Stoked on your purchase! Curious though, did you mean LP120?
But hope I can help answer your questions!

1. I tend to not, the main dust cover is plenty imo.
   
2. A stylus brush, a wet anti static record brush, along with the one you have in your post. Basically just cleaning tools. Another good buy is one of these record sleeve packs. Once you start collecting, its best to replace the paper sleeve a new record would come with or an old sleeve from the thrift store. Keeps the records in their best shape. Lastly, one thing ive been eyeing is one of these. Seems to have some pretty good reviews.. haha
   
3. Stick er on the turntable, turn it on and use the wet brush for a few rotations. NEVER move the brush in terms of side to side motions, always let the spinning do the work. This video has some tips on cleaning, give er a watch
   Hope my answers help!! Enjoy your new turntable!! Whatcha listening to??

as others have said, its worthwhile to upgrade to a turntable with an included dust cover. this will significantly cut down on dust on the tt.

some dust is inevitable, short of a white room. no one has really answered your question about maintaining a clear playing space or how to clean the stylus/records though. here's some more info.

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cleaning the stylus

i use one of these.

however, if you want to go the inexpensive route, i dont recommend any alcohol based cleaners because it can degrade the connection of the diamond/ceramic/etc. tip to the cantilever. instead, you can use a magic eraser. dont go out and buy that mr. clean shit either, its a rip off. buy it in bulk for cheap and clean your whole house while you're at it! just keep in mind that this shit can and will snag on to your stylus and, if you're not careful, ruin your whole day with a bent cantilever.

if you want to go the alcohol route, make your own liquid. be sure to use distilled water(80%) and a mix of isopropyl alcohol(20%). i did this for a time with out any problems, but its not ideal. apply it with a stylus brush. APPLY THE SOLUTION DIRECTLY TO THE BRUSH. NEVER DIRECTLY TO THE STYLUS.

i even hear some people use contact lens cleaner.

if you be fancy...give this stuff a try. a good buddy swears by it, but im a cheap shit and can't speak to its quality or performance.

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cleaning your records

you have many options here.

• least expensive - hand held cleaners.
  
• more expensive - spinclean
  
• even more expensive - squeaky clean.
  
• "pro grade" cleaning options such as loricraft, okki nokki, or smart matrix, etc.
  
  if you're just starting out, i would just go with a hand held cleaning solution for now. plenty of youtube videos online on cheap DIY cleaning methods as well.
  
  ---
  
  cleaning the platter and plinth
  
  i do this at least once a week. more if i'm spinning a lot. use a microfiber towel. NO WATER. water attracts more dust, and doesn't belong near sensitive electronics. remove the platter if you are able and be sure to wipe it thoroughly before using again. clean under the platter as well. DON'T wipe off any exposed bearings that are oiled/greased as doing so could harm the equipment over time.
  
  ---
  
  record storage
  
  if you live in a very dusty place, it might be worth it to invest in some outer sleeves for your records. for the most part though, as long as you keep everything clean you should be just fine. many people get by just fine without them.
  
  ---
  
  enjoy your new tt! :)

Keep it clean, both software and hardware wise. Dust is a bitch and it can cause thermal issues. Since you have a laptop you should at least air dust it maybe twice a month, by taking out the bottom and air blowing the heat sinks and fans (DONT LET THEM SPIN too much, hold them down or tape them down when air dusting them).

I have a can-less air duster from amazon this (https://www.amazon.com/EasyGo-CompuCleaner-Electronic-Alternative-Compressed/dp/B00S7CH6FK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511903628&sr=8-5&keywords=canless+air+duster) bit pricey but worth it.

No need for antivirus, windows defender is super solid, just use your common sense when it comes to navigating the internet and downloading programs, it will remind you to run a system scan if you have not done one in a while. Furthermore, malewarebytes is a great addition that can help keep your system clean. I also use CCleaner to clean out my browsing history and cookies.

Keep the system cool, gaming laptops have come a long ways now, but they still can get a bit toasty especially during long gaming sessions. Any chill pad that directly feed air into the intakes should do a good job of keeping your laptop chill.

When downloading a new game, make sure you have the latest graphics drivers, nvidia tend send out their newest drivers whenever there is a big game being released.

FM transmitters will reduce sound quality. Bluetooth will reduce sound quality. You have both, so they're both reducing the quality of the sound.

Radio stations have huge towers to produce a strong signal, which you're picking up with the antenna of your car. The transmitter you're using produces a very weak signal, which is fine to produce a small "station" for your car, but isn't strong enough to transmit the bass and treble of audio.

So, there isn't any way to increase the quality of an FM transmitter (that I know of). Which leaves you two options.

1. Buy an aftermarket head unit for your car that has bluetooth or an auxiliary input.
   
   
2. Get an FM modulator. This is what I use in my car. It's sort of like your FM transmitter, but instead of producing a little bubble station to play audio over it you plug it in behind the radio and it takes over the stations. Instead of broadcasting a station, it's hardwired to play louder than other stations. It's CD quality audio. I'm not an audiophile, but I really like good quality sound and it sounds amazing.
   
   This is what I purchased. I've had it in my car for about 3 years and it's worked flawlessly the entire time.
   
   This one has bluetooth, but is a lot more expensive.
   
   Good luck!

Here's the details on the stuff:

Power Rack. Had this about 6 weeks and I'm extremely happy with it. Looks fine, feels very sturdy, no feeling of tipping or instability even when I hang from the bar at front. Paint scratches when you move and insert the spotter bars but what do you want for $350 shipped. It's held 215 on multiple occasions with no issues. If you lift significantly heavier than this (300+) you may want to read reviews first, or invest in a less-starter rack, but for many/most people this will be fine forever. It's dead easy to assemble if you have a socket set and if you don't, great opportunity to get one, they're cheap! Assembly can be done mostly solo but the final bits really need a second person to hold stuff in place while bolts are inserted. Rack comes shipped in 2 or 3 (can't remember) boxes which are pretty unwieldy and heavy.

I went with this CAP barbell. This suits my needs very well with great knurling and came without bend, and I'm unlikely to put a bend in it with my sub-300 deadlifts. The barbell ships in a fun 7 foot cylindrical tube which caused the dude at the mail place to nearly topple over because he expected it to be light for some reason.

I also got this plate tree which holds 2x 45# bumpers, 2x 45# plates, and 2x 25#, 2x 10#, 4x 5#, and 2x 2.5#. Does the trick but paint scratches off the pegs like crazy but is easily cleaned up. Single box, about 30 pounds.

The bench is this one by Marcy. I wanted a simple bench and that's what I got. Great bench for the price and I haven't had any instability problems. Had this for a year and used up to 70# dumbbells and 215# barbell with it (I'm 215). Most weight total that's been on it was a 270# friend benching 185# for sets and he found it fine.

Assorted stuff: got these puzzle mats which do the trick for the right price and are stowable unlike a permanent mat. As I mentioned elsewhere the 45# bumpers are meant to mitigate any floor impact, and I'm not terribly concerned with keeping this floor perfect anyway (it's 10 year old laminate on top of concrete, and the "path" is linoleum). The plates were from a sale at the local FitnessDerp store (not its real name) and were 85 cents a pound -- I never saw any on Craigslist for less than that in the month I looked. Finally just some collars.

The cat in the picture highly recommends this crinkle tunnel.

Well the higher the impedance the harder to drive the headphones, thats the basics of it. In DT990s case the 600ohm is the best sounding one, but not by much. The DT990 250ohm premium is almost as good. The DT990 32ohms is also pretty good. You will only be able to tell the differences when listening to all three of them at the same time. But i think the one you were considering must have been the Pro 250ohm model, which is quite a bit different compared to its premium counterparts. It is more uncomfortable, has a smaller soundstage with muddier bass. It is also the cheapest at 200$. If I were you I'd go with the Premium 250ohm or 32ohm models. They both cost around 300$ new and run around 200$-250$ used(on Amazon via Amazon warehouse). If you get the 32ohm model you CAN skip getting an amp, as it wont be necessary, it will certainly improve the sound but wont be necessary. With the 250ohm premium an amp becomes a necessity. If you're going with a brand new 250Ohm premium then just get that along with a AMP+DAC like the E17 or if you want to go cheaper get the E11(it is the same amp as the E17 but without a DAC). You can skip getting a E9 as it wont give as much benefits and would unnecessarily push you overbudget. This should cost you about 440$ if you buy from Amazon(New DT990 Premium 250ohm + Fiio E17 or E11, with the E11 you'll be in budget but will loose on getting a DAC. Or you can get a used DT990 Premium 250 ohm(check out the 4th listing that lists it as like new, if Amazon says it is like new it means it will impossible to differentiate it from a brand new one) with a E17 to stay within budget

You can get a Spin Clean which uses proper fluid (not soap) to clean your records and doesn't submerge the middle of your record and ruin it. It also includes microfiber towels and brushes to dry and also to get out any embedded dirt from grooves.

Or if you're cheap like me, you can just use microfiber cloths and anti-static spray like this and just spritz your microfiber towel/cloth with it like 2-3 times and give your record a quick wipe. Gets rid of any static that built up in the pressing process and taking your record out the first time, which 1) prevents it from picking stuff up and 2) gets any excess vinyl out of the grooves so you won't have any issues.

If you have a TON of money to blow, get a VPI machine, which is basically a bit like a mix of the Spin Clean or just some anti-static spray in that you wet the record with special fluid, spin it around on a special turntable while it's locked in, and then vacuum dry it. If you're lucky, places nearby may even have a machine. I have a shop where if I buy like $20 worth of stuff they clean a record for me for free or if I want, it's $1 a record to get cleaned and the results are amazing.

Hope that helps!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $289.99 @ Micro Center
CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler | $89.90 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock Z97 EXTREME4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory | $61.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $71.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $599.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB ACX 2.0+ Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $599.99 @ Amazon
Case | Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA P2 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $109.99 @ NCIX US
Monitor | LG 27MC67-B 60Hz 27.0" Monitor | $449.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2618.79
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $2598.79
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-03-11 07:58 EST-0500 |

No need to spend 3000$ when this build will do the job for 500$ less. Also don't go for an internal sound card like suggested in the other builds, better to go for an external DAC/AMP combo. this will give you the best possible sound quality for your music production without spending over 1000$ combine them with a good set of studio monitor headsets and it will give you crystal clear sound reproduction, ideal for producing music.

A friend of mine who is a music producer himself swears by these headphones as having a good neutral accurate sound representation, which is what you will want for music production.

As for the computer itself:

i7 4790k allows for overclocking, heavy gaming and streaming with ease.

2x 980ti will let you play games at 4K 60fps high to ultra settings.

16GB of RAM should be more than enough, and you can always add another 16GB for a total of 32.

500GB SSD and a 2TB HDD like you asked.

the cooler is super quiet and allows for cool temps even when overclocked.

fractal design define S is a great quiet case that isn't too expensive. offers lots of room for all your parts, cable management, and whatever else. I went with the closed version, but there is a windowed version as well if you prefer.

PSU is fully modular to make cale management easier and has platinum efficiency, which meas less power consumption, less heat output, and less noise.

Monitor is a nice IPS 60Hz 4k panel, and it's fairly cheap for a 4K monitor.

If you have any more questions, let me know.

I know it can be tempting, but you should never buy a console solely because of the hardware. Hardware is no good if it doesn't play the games you want to play. Crash Bandicoot: N-Sane Trilogy and the upcoming Final Fantasy 7 remake are both PS4 exclusives. And though nothing has been officially stated, many people assume a Spyro remaster is coming next, especially in the wake of Crash Bandicoot's critical reception and sales numbers.

The idea that PS5 will feature backwards compatibility is likewise only a rumor, however, it's backed by logical evidence. But it's worth keeping in mind that Sony has a business interest in NOT offering backwards compatibility, so that they can more easily sell Playstation Now subscriptions, classic digital titles (ala Nintendo's virtual console), and remastered classics. (In other words, just because they can, doesn't mean they will.) And if Sony does ultimately offer b/c with PS5 and copies Microsoft's approach to the tiniest detail, then the PS5 won't have b/c at launch but will have it patched in later, and even then only for the most popular titles. I still have my Xbox 360 hooked up because my Xbox One isn't a 100% replacement for it, and it probably never will be. So buying any console with backwards compatibility in mind is something of a crapshoot.

It might be worth mentioning that you do have options besides Playstation and Xbox. Nintendo Switch has been very popular since it launched in March, and remains perpetually sold out. To get one at this point in time, you'd either have to buy one from an eBay scalper or watch stock trackers carefully and be in the right place at the right moment. But it doesn't take advantage of 4K, and in what could be either a pro or a con depending on your mindset, offers less crossover with the catalog of games you already have access to on PC. However, Nintendo does have a stellar reputation for offering approachable games and single-system multiplayer, and is often thought of as a good choice for girlfriend gaming. Your other option is to run an extra video cable from your PC to your TV if your hardware supports it, and buy some wireless controllers. (I recommend wireless Xbox One controllers, or wireless Xbox 360 controllers if you're running Windows 7.) Then you can just play PC games on your couch, although it won't be quite as simple to start and switch between games, which might not sit well with your g/f.

Connecting multiple consoles to your TV is not particularly menacing, unless you just don't have the physical space for it. If you have a 4K set you probably have enough spare HDMI ports, and if not you can get an HDMI switch to expand the number of available ports, along with a power strip or two if need be. I have 6 consoles hooked up to my 4K flatscreen — PS4, PS3, Xbox One, Xbox 360, Nintendo Switch and Nintendo Wii U. That's why I don't worry about backwards compatibility.

While people are recommending headsets that come with the mic. I'm going to recommend something else. Get a high quality set of over the ear headphones. I'm talking something like the Audio Technica ATH-M50S, Audio Technica ATH-AD700, Sennheiser HD555/595 (The 595's are very similar to the 555's but sound better, there are links around that you can mod your 555's to become 595's), or Sennheiser HD380 Pro. And then attach a Zalman Mic to it.

I have a pair of HD595's and absolutely love them, I can wear them all day and not feel it. They are built like tanks and have amazing sound quality. With my Zalman mic, I not only have a headset that has much higher sound quality than any gaming headset, but I can also use it for VOIP.

I used to have a pair of Creative Fatal1ty MKii, but after picking up my Sennheiser's I can't go back to them. The comfort and sound quality is literally night and day.

Although slightly out of your price range, the two companies make extremely high quality audio equipment. If you look through their offerings you'll definitely find a pair of headphones that will fit your budget. If you watch Amazon you can find that they cut prices dramatically from time to time, I picked up my 595's for around $150, and now they're almost $250.

I see that motivational speaker career is paying off!....

You have "line of sight" to the KHOU transmitters (which is good), but you're about 30 miles away. That's probably too far for a consistent signal with a window or attic antenna, especially on a VHF signal.

But a rooftop antenna should easily be able to pull in such a strong signal (and all your other stations). How about a Clearstream 2V or Winegard 7694p or 7698p strapped to your chimney or on a roof mount, with a RCA Preamp 1. A preamp locks in the signal you receive at the antenna so you don't bleed signal on the coaxial run to your television or at the splitters.

Point the antenna at 178 degrees using your iPhone compass app or install an Android compass app. On the roof, it'll pull in all your signals nicely because they all come from the same location.

FYI - the Clearstream is the nicest looking, but remember that federal law protects your right to put up pretty much any OTA antenna you want on your roof -- no matter what your HOA, city, or landlord prefer. FCC link 1 FCC link 2

FYI 2 -- if you previously had DirecTV or Dish Network, you might be able to re-use their rooftop mount and coaxial cable runs, assuming that their pole/mount gives you a clear, unobstructed view toward 178 degrees. You'll just need to swap out any Direct/Dish splitters/amplifiers for your own splitter or connector.

Speaker amplification:

• Stereo Recevier: Cambridge Audio Topaz SR10v2 $399 $135. Has a great built in phono preamp, possibly a $100+ value. Manufacturer refurbished with a one year warranty. May have a scratch or small dent that does not affect the performance. Or PIONEER SX-10AE $149.99 $119.99. Manufacturer refurbished with a one year warranty. As good as or like new, may have never left the factory.
  
• AV Recevier for better TV sound as well as turntable: Denon AVR-X1500H 7.2 $599 $299. 4K HDMI switching, Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction EQ speaker setup, HEOs WiFi networking and streaming, smartphone app remote and Amazon Alexa voice control.
  
  Larger speakers:
  
  
• Closeout DCM TP160 by MTX Audio $249 $85 pair or black $109. Review by u/DieselWang and Video Review.
  
• Or the tower version and you don't need to build or spend $65+ on speaker stands, DCM TP260 2-Way by MTX Audio $399 $149 pair.
  
  Speaker wire:
  
  
• Pure Copper Oxygen Free Speaker Wire then 4 Ways to Strip Wire. Optionally add banana plugs.
  
• Already with banana plugs AmazonBasics, Crutchfield, DFWCableConnection, Blue Jeans Speaker Cable and Blue Jeans at Amazon.
  
  Bookshelf (misnomer) speaker stands:
  
  
• Dayton Audio SSMB24 or Monoprice Glass.
  
• Sturdy Monolith by Monoprice Speaker Stands. DIY Custom Speaker Stands.
  
  Speaker Placement: Stereo Music Listening and Home Theater.
  
  Subwoofer:
  
  
• Low budget on sale: 12" Infinity Primus PS312 $499 $199. Value of around $300 compared to better $400+ options.
  
  Add WiFi streaming to any recevier without it:
  
  
• Dayton Audio WBA31 $42 + shipping, has app based WiFi streaming, Apple Airplay, DNLA and NAS compatibility and also Bluetooth as a backup.
  
• Chromecast Audio $38 shipped from the UK.
  
• Or an Alexa Dot or Input for voice control and it also has Bluetooth as a backup.
  
  Cleaning:
  
  
• If not getting a Spin-Clean machine or similar lower cost clone, try DIY cleaning: How to clean vinyl records and make your own cleaning solution • Best way to clean your vinyl records. It is also the most economical! • DIY record cleaning • How to clean Vinyl • Wet and Vacuum Clean a Record On the Cheap. After drying, place your vinyl in new anti-static inner sleeves.
  
• Stylus: A stylus brush back to front, ONZOW ZeroDust, or a magic eraser.
  
  Guides:
  
  Home Audio: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Introduction to Audio Components • What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice • How to Connect a Turntable to a Receiver
  
  Home Audio and Home Theater: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • TV vertically centered at eye level while seated • r/hometheater
  
  Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.

You'll find the cheaper headsets compensate by squeezing your head instead of forming appropriately to it. This is even more common in the full ear headsets, who have to be able to withstand you moving about.

The point being, it's not the rubbery ears that's giving you headaches, it's the build quality. I know what you're thinking, Bose have fantastic drivers for sound, but ergonomically they fall flat on their face.

*****
Few Options

• Sennheiser HD380's (Rubbery Ears, No Mic) - Far and away the best quality you can buy for your buck. You'll notice they are sloped, which fit more naturally with how your ears are anatomically attached to your head. 3.5mm with a 1/4" adapter. My personal favorites. Amazon 99$ - 50% Off
  
  
• Sennheiser PC141 (Behind the Head, Mic) - Great headset for an entry level price range. You won't hear the CT's jumping up and down while switching weapons from around the corner, but it'll get the job done. Amazon 35$ - 30% Off
  
  
• Sennheiser G4ME ONE (Cloth Ears, Mic) - Slanted styling for anatomically correct fit, just like the HD380's. You should be noticing a brand trend by now. Also the ear foam is a cloth covering, not rubber. This reduces sweating, makes them more breathable, and also doesn't give you that sealed pressure chamber affect. This helps reduce headaches, and improves long time wear. Amazon 195$ - 30% Off White or Black
  
  *****
  
  Hopefully this gives you a few options. I would again really emphasize that when it comes to headphones and people with sensitive facial zones/heads (I'm in this group), Sennheiser and other quality companies cannot be beat.

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

• 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)
  
  
• 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)
  
  
• 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)
  
  
• Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.
  
  
• Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)
  
  After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.
  
  Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.
  
  Hope that helps!
  
  

All this advice applies if you live in the US (don't wanna waste your time).

For a full power rack, I would recommend just waiting for a good deal on craigslist. Even this rack on amazon is pretty good deal

I'm sure if you look long enough you can find a better deal on craigslist. I bought that weight bench a few years ago, but if I had known better I would have just gotten a power rack. As a beginner (less than 300lbs on squat), this solution works for me. Also, try to find one with a pulley system if possible, cause I love some of the exercises that are only possible with a pulley system, especially if you are beginner. Also, remember if you decide to upgrade you can always sell something professionally made and get most of your money back and even make money if bought from a really good deal. Of course, void all this if you love building stuff and have the time.

The batteries I bought a couple months ago are the "Powerex 2700" ones. I haven't tried any batteries other than those or the stock batteries, but the Powerex were highly recommended when I was looking for batteries myself, and I have no complaints. Type "Powerex 2700" into Google search, and "Powerex 2700 mflb" is one of the autocomplete suggestions, haha. xD

The 2700 refers to milliamps, which is basically how much power they put out at any given time. I think 2700 is more power than the stock batteries ever put out (even before they started to degrade over 6 months). With 2700mA, you have to take faster draws or you'll scorch the herb. I always found the stock draws exceedingly slow, so I like not having to wait as long.

So those batteries are a good investment, and they're only $13 on Amazon for four batteries.

Now about chargers. If you try to charge a battery too quickly, it can seriously damage the battery. The stock charger is what's called a "trickle charger". Trickle chargers "trickle" only a small amount of charge into a battery, which means that they are safe to use on long-lasting, slow-charging batteries as well as short-lasting, fast-charging batteries.

The biggest issue with the stock charger is that it doesn't have overcharge detection. It's generally pretty safe to trickle-charge even a fully charged battery. What's NOT good is to leave a battery on trickle charge for days after it reached full capacity.

The charger that I got is this LaCrosse charger. It has three different charge rates, all of which are compatible with the Powerex batteries. I'm not sure if charging them quickly all the time is a good thing even if the batteries support it, but the option's there if I need it.

My favorite feature about the LaCrosse charger is "discharge" mode. What it does is completely empty the battery first, THEN recharge it. This is very, VERY good for your batteries. Unless you fully empty a NiMH (the type of battery the mflb uses) before recharging it again, it will have a "ghost" effect, which is basically tricking the battery into thinking that it's dead even when it shouldn't be yet.

The last cool feature of the LaCrosse charger is "discharge/refresh", which discharges and recharges the batteries 20 times. The charger's manual recommended refreshing new batteries at least once, which increases the performance or some such. You don't want to cycle a battery too much, though, since I know they're only supposed to handle a limited number of cycles. Cycling the battery is a good way to erase a ghosting problem, though.

So I recommend getting the Powerex 2700 at the very least. You can charge those in the stock charger, and simply buy new ones (they're only $12, after all) whenever they start to suck. But I really like my charger, too.

(Modified copypasta from a message I sent another redditor a while back. I hope this helps!)

Hey there, I'd definitely recommend Eneloops as well, I've been using them for about 4-5 years now.

I personally use the Panasonic Eneloop Pro's. The higher capacity is nice, you get a bit more mileage which for only a bit more money. The other brand I had in the past, but lost them around the house were Sanyo Eneloop XX. Overall the Panosonics are better as far as price and have bit more juice in them as well.

Pair an 8-pack of batteries with a good charger.

My charger is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RSOV50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Might be a bit of overkill, but I like all the smart charge features and options: autoshutoff/discharge/automated discharge then recharge/, it allows though you could easily find something cheaper; just make sure it's compatible with this type of battery.

Just make sure if you're shopping for bargin's on the batteries and you'll find them I'm sure, is that you're buying legit Eneloops. Believe it or not there are plenty of knock-offs or just busted brands that try to cash in.

I think you were on to something initially with the PC fans. They're standardized, low power, and last forever. Instead of using the 3 or 4 pin connectors, you could get a USB powered model, like these, plug them into a USB AC charger, and the charger into a timer or inline switch. If you find the airflow isn't enough, you can add a second fan or try a larger one. It won't dry a tube in 10 seconds, but let it sit for 5 minutes and it should do the job.

Instead of 3D printing small stuff, you could always use Sugru. For a funnel, see if you can find a car oil funnel. They go from a large square (for the fans) to a small circle (for the tube).

If you want to get super fancy, since the tubes are a standardized length, you could mount this fan contraction to a wall with a second set of funnel and fans at the opposite end (but with the fans flipped over). Then you'd have gravity pulling the water down, the fan blowing dry air from the top, and the moisture being sucked out the bottom. Connect the two pieces with some plastic wire conduit/covers and you got yourself a nice, tidy solution.

You could even have a 'deluxe' model with an attached shelf containing a few fans under a grating/mesh for the other bits, like face mask and head strap.

I wouldn't use a hairdryer because of the heat. I'd opt for something that uses cool air, but requires no oversight.

Of course the alternative is to just clean it early in the day and let it dry for a few hours... (but I do love my gadgets).

This guy definitely knows what he's talking about. I personally rock the Superlux HD668B. The treble on them is a little high, but as your ears adjust to them, they sound excellent, especially for their $50 price tag. They beat out many $100-250 headphones.

However, the HD700s are some of the best headphones ever made, and will be good for pretty much anything; gaming, music, late-night movie watching, so if you're able to burn some money, definitely get those as they will likely be your go-to headphones for years to come.

Also, the headphone jack on the PS4 controller is pretty weak, not really meant to power great headphones, and it also uses Bluetooth which compresses the audio quality. If you have a home theater receiver connected, you can use that to plug your headphones into and it'll do you well. If not, I'd suggest getting a headphone amplifier. You can probably buy something like the Prozer DAC, which is remarkably cheap for it's quality. They have a $20 version as well, but headphones don't come anywhere near being able to hear that kind of fidelity (192 kHz, CD quality is 44.1 kHz), so it's really useless outside of maybe a studio where they have specialized gear for that sort of thing.

If you're going to be using headphones, you can get a cheap USB condenser mic, plug it into the PS4, and just set it near you on a table or something. The Samson GoMic is great, and very portable (about the size of a bite-sized Butterfinger candy-bar).

The headphones he listed though will absolutely get you where you need to go and a wide range of prices. And they all range from "damn good" to "excellent."

Of course, there are a plethora of "gaming" headphones, but most of them are junk because they cut a ton of corners on parts so they afford to put in "virtual surround sound", license Dolby, the microphone, and the software in the headphones to process/EQ the audio to bring you the sound "as intended" which is marketing bullshit, because the audio that comes out of the PS4 is what was intended, it doesn't need any additional processing. It's the same tactic Beats uses, and sadly, people fall for it. Gaming headphones, 99.999% of them, are just marketing scams with fancy buzzwords, really.

So yeah, TL;DR, grab the headphones you want, a headphone amp/DAC if you need, and a mic, and you'll have an audio setup that will blow most people's headphone setups away.

Edit: Fixed since I made this post on no sleep and there were some errors. lol

They come with speaker wire (I'm pretty sure) so you're set there.

You need an amp as well as a way to plug them in. It depends how much you're willing to spend, but I'll give you some options.

This little amp is great for a desk setup. It isn't very clean and doesn't have much power, but that should be fine for sitting up close.

This SMSL amp has the same power but it is cleaner, meaning it will sound a bit better. It also won't distort as much as you turn it up.

This SMSL amp has more power than the other amps. This just means it can get louder. It might be nice if you plan on using them in a bigger room or at a tv in the future.

To plug those in to your computer, you'll need an rca-3.5mm cable. I use AmazonBasics for all of my cables and they work great.

Alright, now that will give you sound (probably) but it might not be the best. Computers usually have very bad dacs. This converts the 1s and 0s to squiggly bits that the speakers can use. If your computer has an optical out, I would recommend this dac. It is cheap and comes with the optical cable.

If you get the dac, you'll need an RCA cable to plug it into the amp.

So, if you get the dac, it will go like this: (the stuff between the --> is the cables)

computer -->OPTICAL--> dac -->RCA-CABLE--> amplifier -->SPEAKER WIRE--> speakers

If you skip the dac, it will go like this:

computer -->3.5MM-to-RCA-CABLE--> amplifier -->SPEAKER WIRE--> speakers


Does this make sense?

Sennheiser HD 518s, geared for more electronic music, far better than Beats, Open Ear for beautiful sound

~$70

Sennheiser HD 558s, balanced all around, improvement over the 518s but less geared for electronic music. Open ear

~$100

Sennheiser 598s, practically similar to the 558, just further improved for more accurate sound reproduction

~$150

Sennheiser HD 380 PRO, closed back, extremely good sound reproduction

~$100

Audio-Technica M50x, closed back, one of the most popular Audiophile headphones on the market

~$150

2 Closed Back, 3 Open Back. As you can see, I strongly prefer open for the much cleaner and natural sound, but closed back is still an option.

I mean, if your looking for, "audio tuned to only emphasize the very highs and the very lows", then yeah, maybe beats are for you, however, that doesn't make them of higher quality at all, they are literally doing the opposite of what you would want in a headphone, it's just that you would apparently prefer it. If you had a headphone that was completely flat, then you could hear the exact amount of bass the artist was intending. For example, I have Dual-Subs in the back of my car inside a ported box. If I listen to a deadmau5 song on those with the bass settings tuned way up, I'll get an overpowering bass that basically shakes the car and drowns out the rest of the music. However, when I go home and listen to the song on say my HD518s, I'll get to listen to the song as a whole, and the bass is represented exactly at the level it should be for the song, where you can feel it, you can hear it, but it doesn't drown out the rest of the song.

I know you said under $100, but I've never known anyone to regret spending that little bit extra on a set of cans (except people who bought Beats™). Assuming you're going to be using them for mixing work as well as leisurely listening, I can highly recommend [Sennheiser's HD 380s] (http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-380-Pro-Collapsible-Professional/dp/B001UE6I0G). There are very few other products in your price range that compare.

When you have a little extra scrilla on hand, I also recommend picking up one of these so you can boost the output level to the 380s. The power, clarity, and control offered by this combination is an amazing value.

I can't use this much camping on oahu, but this would be great for a camping trip to either Washington or Oregon!

It also has free shipping! I already have a mess kit, and the butane can be obtained at walmart, but I havnt seen such a great price on a camp stove. The reviews make it seem awesome!

Someone else posted this as well, but I also had this on my list.

Story time: On one of our first dates my then boyfriend, now husband, took me hiking on a trail near his house. It's a pretty intense one where people have died getting very lost. We had hiked it before and gotten a little confused and had to climb a very sketchy crumbling rocky hillside and I was concerned we'd get lost again.

I was reassured that he had GPS and we'd be fine and we'd only be out a short while. Well, my husband had no water, and I had a half liter bottle. We started out and it was pretty easy, there are tons of streams in the area but there is a risk of leptospirosis from pigs, so obviously we didn't drink. Needless to say we got lost, his so-called GPS wa his cell phone and there was no reception, we were lost for three hours. He landed up drinking the majority of my water since he sweats a lot, had none and is nearly double my weight.

I was so thirsty in the way back, those crystal clean fast moving waters looked tempting, but I was no fool. That life-straw would have been such a godsend on that hike of lost crazy. We eventually got back drank tons of water, and my husband vowed we'd never go hiking there again unless we had real supplies.

Edit: it's also neat that I have links to other great camp supplies!

I use the ($60) [Logitech G430] (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826104847) w/ Sennheiser Splitter cable, it really needs a splitter as audio is too low without. As for features, it sounds like any other headset nothing special, but it is more comfortable with it's softer earcups. I heard of someone using an adapter from turtle beach to get full 7.1 out of them as they are advertised to offer 7.1, but only on PC. I've never tried adapter on PS4:




But, I also heard alot of good things about HyperX, I think this is their first gen pair($68)

And last but not least the PC fav,Kraken($70)



A bit of advice on any headphones you choose(if you plan to use microphone function), you would do well to have some audio splitter cable as audio improves dramatically. For example, my G430 came with an adapter that ran through USB, but audio was so low it was worthless. Also, pretty much any headphones should work on PS4 with an adapter or Splitter cable, but splitter is a better solution, just stay away....far away from anything branded "StarTech" as they are usually recommended or shown "bought together" on Amazon, they seem perfect cuz their cheap, but I used a splitter adapter from them and it was DOA.

I would buy a full power rack for safety's sake, if space and money permit (linked a cheap one, but it will do it's job, you can spend a lot more on higher quality ones), rather than the stand that liquidarity listed, but that's really up to your own tolerance for safety. You can use it for benching too (if you have a bench).

I wouldn't list bumper plates (as compared to steel) as an absolute necessity. They are certainly good to have for cleans (and to a certain extent, deadlifts), but again it's kind of up to your tolerance for noise and potential to break stuff (like... floors, or your bar) vs. how much money you want to spend. Obviously it's better to have them than not if you can afford it.

With a rack, a bench, a bar, and some plates, you can do most of any kind of training, and if you can swing some kettlebells (heh) that will add to your versatility.

With those specific programs however, from what I've seen in the past, they like to prescribe a decent amount of kettlebell type stuff (some of which you could do or modifiy to do with a bar, some you can't), so that might be a higher priority than on some other programs.

Here are my tips:

1. Get some sort of record cleaning device. Could be a Spin Clean, could be a Squeaky Clean, or something more expensive than that. But get something. Once you have it, make sure you wet clean your records within a week or two of getting them. They'll sound better and it's worth it.
   
   
2. Now that you've cleaned your new or used record, why not put it into a nice anti-static sleeve. I'm a sucker for the MoFi sleeves, but just find something that works for you. If you're wondering why you'd want to spend another $20 right now it ends up being $.40 per record.
   
   
3. And once you've put that record in a nice anti-static sleeve you should put the whole thing into a nice poly outer sleeve to protect the jacket. Again, you can get a bundle of these (30 or so) for $5 at your local record store or find any number of places online. But the point is that if you're going to spend $15 - $30 for a new LP it's probably worth an extra $.50 total to protect it. People do things differently, but I put the jacket in the outer sleeve and plop the record in the anti-static sleeve inside the outer sleeve behind the jacket.
   
   Store those well-protected records vertically and out of the sunlight and you should be good to go.

Well I'll start off by saying YES open back will help you not need mic monitoring it will also add a better soundstage for audio positioning that will work better than any terrible 7.1 virtual SS or "True" 7.1(which is terrible and no one should buy any of the current headsets marketed with this gimmick). Also gaming focused isn't really ever nessasary because better sound in general will be good for gaming and will add more functionality. Also with wireless you sacrifice a fair bit a quality and you have to pay way more. If your willing to spend $300 don't even get any headset. But a pair of HD598 from Sennheiser and a Mod Mic 4.0 this set up will cost close to the same as a G933 and will be better than it in every single way by a large margin. Also for it to work on PS4 you will just need one adapter which Sennheiser sells. But if you for what ever reason want a headset still go for the Sennheiser Game One there way better than the current best wireless gaming headset the Siberia 800 and come in at about half the price. But the aforementioned adapter is still nessasary on console.

Hey, I can help you!

First, get a dual UHF/VHF antenna. This is the one I use. You can buy one on Amazon or at the South Portland Best Buy for $99.99.

This antenna should pretty much pick up NBC, ABC, and CBS no matter where you mount it. I have mine indoors on the first floor.

To get FOX, you'll need to point the antenna so that it's facing almost due north. The FOX antenna is up near Farmington for some reason. You may have to mess with the direction a little, but you should be able to get FOX in crystal clear HD with great reception.

These are my experiences over on Woodford St in Portland. Best of luck to you!

The link I gave was a cursory example, but I did specify that it should be an active DP to DVI adapter. But fair point, the one in the link will not be the right one. I would expect that the OP would do his/her own research based on the information provided and not just buy the first one linked (which was linked purely as an example).

Perhaps something like this would have been a more appropriate example - https://smile.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter-Black/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=active+dp+to+dvi+adapter+144hz&qid=1567203271&refinements=p_76%3A419158031&rnid=419157031&rps=1&s=gateway&sr=8-1

But the one above is also but an example of the type of adapter that is needed, but not neccessarily the exact adapter needed.

Hope that helps and indeed clarifies.

Peace <3

I've got a ton of budget best bang for the buck gear, but one place you absolutely should not skimp on is socks. Buy 2-3 pair of SmartWool Expedition weight socks. It's like wearing slippers inside your boots.
Socks
Here's some more of the cheap (mostly) gear that I purchased and am still happy with. This includes some revisions I've made after a somewhat miserable trip to Yosemite. I am a freak for reading reviews and digging for the best price.
$8 Stove
$8 Mug
$16 underwear... okay, this is almost as important as socks!
$29 Solar charger, or DIY
$85 Water filter, didn't want to skimp here although water tabs are doable
$9 550 paracord
$14 multitool - use a small cheap knife to 'cut' costs
$28 titanium Anodized Aluminum pot
$9 Tarp Couldn't find the link, but it's at WalMart in their camping section, by Outdoor Products.
$9 titanium spork
$45 hammock - you can get cheaper on campmor, but this one caught my eye at REI
$16 hammock suspension - you can get cheaper by DIY
$14 Compass
Sierra Trading Post has Comfortrel longjohns for $17/top or bottom - feels cheap, but effective.
$24 15 degree mummy bag IMO the next best thing for the money is The Cat's Meow at ~$90.
$22 tent - small, decent weight, cheap, hard to find. Not sure if I trust in rain, but worked great for five days of decent weather and 30 degree nights. Dumped this for the hammock setup due to weight and size. (but it's not that heavy or big)


In addition, I'll be switching to the $45 54litre pack from Costco.
GoLite has some crazy cheap light backpacks, but they don't seem to do well for loads heavier than ~25 pounds, which you probably won't hit on a budget.
$10 tab stove - haven't used, gonna try this out soon

Wal Mart has been seriously stepping up their backpacking game in the last year or so. Take a look their. A lot of the products are decent quality at crazy good prices.
Thread

This project was inspired by a previous post by EvilBorisDX about a month ago. Thanks goes out to him for the idea, he provides some tutorials that are worth checking out - his implementation is based on Lightberry, which is a prebuilt package. I decided to build my own, and i'm glad i did - this is a really awesome addition to your gaming rig, and i recommend it to everyone! - Happy to answer any questions.

Looking around the web i found two great tutorials (linked in the video description) that helped me through the process, but it wasn't without some pain points. Here's a few key takeaways (and my parts list is at the bottom):

• You want an EasyCap grabber with the STK1160 chipset. I went through several, and while you can get it working with other chipsets (except the Somagic, if you get a Somagic just give up... it's not worth the effort, order a new one and roll the dice again), the STK1160 is by far the easiest. In fact, one of the tutorials has an SD image that will just straight work with this chipset.
  
• Not all HDMI->Composite converters are equal. First, Amazon sent me the wrong one altogether, which was a RCA->HDMI... took me awhile to notice that. Then, the replacement would only accept a 480p input (which forced the PS4 to display in 480p). After the replacement converter was in place, everything settled in and i was finally able to dial in my color settings and get this thing up and going.
  
• The replacement converter displays a test pattern when it has no signal, as opposed to just going to a black screen - so i had to add a power switch to the LED strip to be able to turn off the LEDs without shutting down the whole system. I decided to go with a Belkin WEMO so my fat ass didn't have to get up to turn off the lights, but any 2 pole switch inline with the power will work too.
  
• Don't be afraid to change the Hyperion color settings (especially the Threshold and WhiteLvl values) from what's shown on the web. Dial it in to your preference.
  
• Most tutorials call for you to power the Pi and the LEDs from the same power supply. I did not go this route since i wanted to be able to easily toggle the power to the LEDs without shutting down the Pi. If you go this route, you MUST ground the LEDs to both the power AND the Pi's grounding jumper, or the lights will not function properly.
  
  My full parts list is as follows. I found these to all work well, and the EasyCap is guaranteed to be an STK1160:
  
  
• WS2801 LEDs (Any WS2801 cuttable strip will work)
  
• Screen Grabber - STK1160 - There are cheaper ones available, but you take chances on getting a different firmware.
  
• HDMI Splitter
  
• HDMI->Composite Converter - Really don't mess around here. Get this one. It's not the same as is shown in the picture (it's white, not black), but it's 1080p and doesn't require external power. Only con is the test pattern.
  
• Any Raspberry Pi kit. I went with the CanaKit Starter kit with the Model B
  
• DC Power Adapter - To power your LEDs
  
• You'll also need misc cables (RCA and HDMI), some wires, soldering iron, 5v power port, etc... to set this all up. Good fun project overall.

I've recently kind of made the switch. I'll mention my setup since it involves a bit of what you are using as well as some of the other recommendations:

I'm currently using some Apple TVs hooked up to the TVs. I know that from one of your comments that you are using an AppleTV (I'm using 4th Gen).

I've got an HDHomeRun, which transmits the Over The Air (OTA) over my home network (and am using this antenna with it).

It's worked pretty well for live TV. I've tried HomeRun's DVR software (which costs extra), but have had rather so-so results.

Anyway, if you do get an HDHomeRun, then on your AppleTV you will want to get the Channels app. It costs a bit (more than I'd like it to have, but eh...), and make sure that you buy it through the AppleTV, since there is a separate version for iOS, and if you buy it for iOS, you don't get the tvOS version and visa versa. Although the cost is annoying, it works quite well.

Right now I am trying DirectTV Now. It's been working moderately well (also I'm using a Gigapower connection through AT&T). I'll have to review in a few months whether I want to keep it or not.

Then, if you do happen to have some sort of other (DLNA) media server in the house (Plex, Kodi), then Infuse is a great app (and if you get the iOS version, you also get the tvOS version).

Another thing that I should also probably note is that with the HDHomeRun devices, none of them are actually wireless. So you'll have to have the device (and antenna) either by your router, or otherwise connected up through a wired line.

Anyways, it's been nice in that this set up has meant that I'm getting the local OTA channels a player for my media server, DirectTV Now, Netflix, WatchESPN, and a few more things all on one device now.

The funny thing is that it was really live sports that kept me with regular cable, but now between DirectTV Now/WatchESPN, I've actually got more sports channels than I did before, but at a lower cost.

You're off to a really great start! I have a few suggestions if you're looking for improvements. There are a lot of suggestions below, but that certainly doesn't indicate that what you've done isn't good. Rather, there are a lot of directions you can take the space and it's up to you to decide how to prioritize.

• I would NOT get a second cabinet in that same style for the other side, but you do need to finish that side with the speaker. I suggest a basket and plants (see below).
  
• I think you'd do great to change the curtains from a solid to a print to liven the space up slightly. The green color is fine, or you could go all-blue or yellow.
  
• Get a large basket to store the blankets in so they're not draped over the couch (unless you need them to protect the couch from pets or kids).
  
• I don't think the colors of your throw pillows on the couch really work. I'd stick with the blues and tans you already have in the room, but get a large bold pattern.
  
• Get at least 2 plants-- one small one to go on the little cabinet, and one large floor one to go on the speaker side of the TV.
  
• I'm not sure what the items on top of the cabinet are, but they're the wrong scale. Dress the cabinet up with stuff like a decorative vase, books, a large framed picture etc. Group items together in little clusters rather than spacing them out evenly, and try to vary the heights and textures.
  
• It doesn't look like a conventional coffee table would work, but you want somewhere to set a beverage down near the couch. I suggest getting one or maybe two narrow end tables to go by the arms of the couch.
  
• Lastly, I'd recommend getting a cable management sleeve to run along the floor on the speaker side to hid that power cord.

The HDMI handshake always takes some time, and Windows is particularly annoying with displays in my experience. Even if I plug my display in directly without any interruption or switching, simply changing between "active" and "disabled" in Windows causes all connected displays to turn on and off for several seconds. Windows often scrambles which display has my icons and open programs, too. I see how that'd be a big problem for you. Its not home and not theater, but I'm looking into it.

The ideal approach off the top of my head would be to have the display already "on" and connection negotiated, then just not display the image until its needed. I've got a few ideas:

- There are fast HDMI switchers out there. They are the ones that have an option to display which ever input is currently active, but support only one output each. They are cheap, though. This product on Amazon claims that the connected PCs can have their output as "always on", then it simply displays either the first active one or the one selected via remote. $40 https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

- Try looking into "presentation switchers" instead. They start pretty cheap at B&H, but would do more what you want. KannexPro, for example,even has UltraFast HDMI switchers boasting 0.2 seconds switching time. This particular one is pricier at $500, but it says it can pre-store the EDID information of multiple displays to switch HDCP signals faster: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1424577-REG/kanexpro_hdmx42_18g_4x2_hdmi_2__4k_60.html

- Perhaps instead of connecting them as displays, have you tried adding a capture card to the PCs and connecting the output of that to a switch? This should at least negate Windows messing with it

- Or, alternatively have a PC/laptop/cheap Android tablet connected to the projector, and have it remotely display the content of one of the other PCs via wired LAN? You can probably get a sufficient connection going over LAN

I have owned an msr pocket stove for a while and loved it. When it went missing I spent a season without it because I was too stubborn to buy a piece of gear I just had to find. Well next season I decided to just do a ton of research and see if there was anything that was being sold for a fraction of the price but was still popular. That's when I found this. Do yourself a favor and start skimming through the reviews. There's a lot of them. There are things about it that could be better but hey for under 6$ I have used the shit out of this thing and have been thoroughly pleased.

Leegoal Ultralight Backpacking Canister Camp Stove with Piezo Ignition 3.9oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_iRvRwb778K57W

I love them both. They are the only two headphones I have kept, while trying/returning the rest. The X2s are more comfortable, with an airy/open feel, great to listen to music/game. I also love the v modas for techno/rap and gaming as well. I have also used the v modas to travel/fly with 2-3 times now as well. I would def pick up the x2s esp if you can get a deal.

Side note, since I've seen some other people mentioning an amp/dac, I picked up the

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1484514699&sr=8-30&keywords=e17

This makes a WORLD of a difference. Sounds WAY better. You can also add additional bass. I would never go back to not having a DAC. I normally play directly from my PC (motherboard), with no soundcard, so this helps a lot.

For an HDMI switch, I use this: Kinivo Switch, and it works great. I have a PS4, XB1, Wii U, Switch and PS3 hooked up to it. I have no issues with it, and recommend it. I am running everything at 1080, though.


I also have 2 of the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0's that I absolutely love. Each one has 6 inputs, capable of switching composite, s-video and component. You have to run the appropriate outputs, so you are really limited to using 1 type of output realistically. If you get fancy with the output wiring you can mix and match, but I like to keep it simple. I use S-Video for everything that supports it into the selectors and then into a Toshiba CRT TV. I don't see any on eBay right now, but that's pretty much where you're gonna find them. I really like mine and recommend trying to scoop one up.


I used to run the regular Pelican System Selectors that had push buttons to switch sources. They work, but don't look as slick as the Pro's and Pro 2.0's.


Mixing inputs gets tricky, and I typically run different switching units for different types of outputs (s-video, component, HDMI). Here is a link to my setup I posted on reddit a few weeks ago: my setup

Oh my god, I am so sorry!
I was sure that I replied and was waiting for an answer.. since it's been a couple of days I kinda had a second look!

Seems like I never send my message.. derp derp!

---

Well I am personally not a big fan of large monitors, especially not for the 'low' 1080p resolution.
However.. I figured you two would both sit a bit further back when playing on the PS4s, so that you could both look at each other screens?
When you sit far enough back, the big monitor will look great. When you sit at a normal or close enough distance, it might not look that great because of the pixel size being to big.

• Resolution explained
  
  This video hopefully makes you understand what I mean with this!
  
  ----
  
  Yes, I don't believe that the smaller monitor in the middle will be smart.
  As for cable management, the longer cables certainly will be helpful. You can also consider to get something like this to get the bunch of cables tidy together. I personally use velcro straps to bunch the big bundle of cables together.
  
  ---
  
  The SSD should have no problem with running lots of things at the same time. I am not entirely sure how the Elgato card works exactly. I have no experience with capture cards, so.. yeah.
  
  An SSD can do up to 34 'commands' at the same time. Now I am not entirely sure what counts as a command. Which is where it gets a bit blurry for me.
  However, I am fairly sure that the SSD won't be the bottleneck. At most it will be the RAM / memory. But, test it out for yourself first and if you've got issues. We can diagnose them together and find the solution.
  
  Will you only record '1 screen' at the time? I don't understand.. I thought that you would record both PS4s at the same time and then later combine those 2 recordings into 1 video with the magic of video editing? That you upload to YouTube..
  
  Not sure here what the exact plan is, sorry! :)
  
  

It's not a mind blowing upgrade in quality, but it was definitely worth it in my opinion. That's why I mentioned the upgrade.

I went from an rca to cable converter, to an rca to hdmi converter and didn't notice a difference in quality, but after using the wii to hdmi converter, I found it to be a noticeable difference.

I used to buy games from the nintendo store, and that's where I found the best jump in quality, Mario Kart and Yoshi's Story both had good improvements. I'll see how it does with some of the other games and send you some pictures if you'd like.

Up-front warning: I'm in a bit of a rut when it comes to brand loyalty so take everything I say as a recommendation of something to try on rather than outright buy sight unseen (though that should really be the rule for any audio gear.)

The Sennheiser HD-380 pro is one of my all-time favorites from a comfort and isolation perspective. They're circumnaural, cheap (relatively anyway) and have a fairly neutral response.

If your focus is gaming, the Game Zero may be up your alley. It's very similar ergonomically to the 380, but includes a mic. (Unfortunately the mic is not removable.)

If you're more fashion conscious you may be interested in the Momentum. These things are probably one of the few I've ever tried that beat my 380s in comfort (the other notable one on my mind being bose's QC15.) These guys come in multiple colors, so you get lots of choices.

If you're willing to take the plunge into open back (less/non isolating) the HD 558 has a nice wide soundstage while still having the comfort of the 380. These are likely the least in line with your requirements, but I still highly recommend trying a pair on if there are any shops around you that carry them.

Since you mentioned gaming, I'll also drop mention of the antlion modmic. They are constantly having inventory issues (can't keep up with demand) but it's an interesting product. New version is on the way.

I have this HDMI splitter, which bypasses the HDCP, but apparently OREI has updated it and it now is HDCP compliant. Search around on Amazon, YouTube, or even here on reddit for a splitter that is not HDCP compliant. They definitely exist, it's just a matter of finding the right one. I use mine with an elgato game capture HD, and it works flawlessly. I'd say that's your best bet...who knows when Sony will patch it, it could be months if ever. Good luck dude.

Thank you for the response! They are different native resolutions but I have changed in the settings for them to be the same to combat this issue. It still didn't fix it. Even if the monitor is plugged into the splitter by itself it is a black screen. If I plug in my TV to the splitter by itself it works fine. Also my 3 Asus monitors all work fine when plugged into the splitter (either by themselves or with the TV also). I was talking with a few other people and the predictions were:
> I suspect it is a color space issue. DVI only supports RGB color space. HDMI supports RGB and YPbPr. RGB is what computer monitors use and YPbPr is what TV's usually use. If the PC is outputting YPbPr for the TV and the monitor is only able to get RGB, well it may not be able to display the signal.

> It's a chipset issue with the Samsung monitor not being able to interpret the YPbPr color space, even though it is only about 7-8 years old.

> The computer may use drivers to support the output to that monitor and when it's plugged into the splitter it is no longer receiving driver support.

I contacted the company OREI and they said:
> Thank you for contacting us. You'll have this issue with the HD-102 when you are connecting two different display types (TV and Monitor). You won't have this issue if both are monitors or both are TV. In this case, we recommend the OREI HDS-102 which supports EDID selection.

So now my question is which of these issues is it actually?

OREI believes that if I return the splitter I have HD-102 and get HDS-102 that my problem will be solved. Any other opinions?

Ok, it got kind of late and not everything is available yet, so in lieu of the photo, here's a full list:

Bike stuff:

• Extra tube, patch kit, tire levers, compact hand pump
  
  
• Chain tool
  
  
• Pedal wrench (would love to skip this, but need to box my bike)
  
• Chain lube
  
• Bike multi-tool
  
• Two extra spokes (one for each side of rear) and spoke wrench
  
• Leatherman
  
• Adventure Cycling maps and compass
  
  Camp stuff:
  
  
• Mummy bag (REI polar pod )
  
  
• Ground pad (big agnes 3/4 length air pad)
  
  
• Tent (REI sololite)
  
• 50 feet of 400lb line
  
• Ultralight camp stove (shipping from amazon , buying fuel when I land in seattle)
  
• Aluminum pot/pan
  
• First aid kit (added water purification tabs, nail clippers, space blanket, condoms)
  
• Polyurethane sheets, one sized for ground cloth, one for bike cover
  
• Bathroom kit, tube of laundry soap
  
• Two one liter bottles for water
  
  Clothing:
  
  
• Columbia cargo pants with zip-off lower legs. Seem water resistant.
  
  
• Two pairs bike shorts, two cycling jerseys, one long sleeve wicking shirt
  
  
• Four sets undies and socks, one set warm socks
  
• Bright yellow windbreaker, seems water resistant
  
  On my body/miscellaneous:
  
  
• Mirror on my glasses
  
  
• Neon reflective safety vest
  
• Masses of sun block
  
• Two water bottles on my frame
  
• iPhone 4s, Kindle (loaded with Game of Thrones), wall charger
  
  Undecided
  
  
• Maybe my DSLR, if everything else comes in light enough
  
  If I have any glaring omissions, or if you can tell me from experience, "Dude, you don't need to bring that!", then I will be super grateful for your insight into this.
  
  edit for formatting

Zipties are your best friend, you could even go a little extreme and drill some holes into your desk to fit the cables into comfortably. Or... you could just get a nice rail under your desk:

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Black-Length/dp/B002DNM42O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499954992&sr=8-6&keywords=cable+management

Really nice setup by the way! You don't see a lotta setups with multiple colors, pretty unique in my opinion.

Hi! I also have chronic pain/am disabled. I play Steam games with an Xbox One controller with the Windows 10 wireless adapter. (I tried the Steam Controller but it was bulky, not intuitive, and I basically hated it. lol. YMMV.)

I have my tower sitting in this cabinet, which I covered with this film to keep everything hidden. My husband cut out the back of the cabinet to install a fan / make room for the cables to come out of the back.

We used these cord covers to keep everything neat.

I use this wall-mounted swing arm from Amazon for my monitor. I push it toward the wall when I am done. (I put my chair/station in the corner for this to work.)

I sit in an IKEA Poang chair with ottoman, using this lower lumbar cushion and this coccyx cushion.

I use this mouse arm on the Poang chair, these cushions for my elbows, and a beanbag rest for my wrist (for when I have to use the mouse).

My keyboard sits on a shelf beside me and I pull it onto a lap desk (stored under my chair) for when I need to use it.

I also have a wall mount for my Xbox One controller.

I hope that helps! It took me a long time to get something together that keeps my living room still looking like a living room. :)

What's your recommendation for both portable and desktop use? >$500 US budget. Right now I'm looking at a Fiio E17 and a set of Sennheiser Momentums (over ear). I listen to CD-quality or better lossless files on an iPod/iPhone/MacBook Pro. I don't care about built in iPod controls/mic, but if there's a version of the headphones with that built in, I'll probably get that one. No brand loyalties.

My holy grail headphones would be something in the same design as the Bose Triports (slim, very lightweight, circumaural), but with excellent sound.

Budget - <$500 US. Closer to $350 would be ideal, but $500 if it's worth it (which I think it probably is). I don't currently have a DAC/headphone amp, so I'm hoping to fit that into the total.

Source - iPod, iPhone, MacBook Pro.

Requirements for Isolation - I don't need to block out other sound, but I don't want people sitting next to me in the library to hear my music. This is important to me.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Circumaural preferred, but on the slimmer side--I would also consider IEMs. My only experience with IEMS was a set of $80 Ultimate Ears that I found uncomfortable and difficult to achieve a good seal with. They broke after ~6 years of light use.

Preferred tonal balance - I'm not sure, although I know I don't want a ton of extra bass.

Past headphones - Right now I'm using a set of Sennheiser HD280 Pros at my desk, and some Klipsch S4i's for walking around. Both are fine, but neither really blows me away. I once had 5 minutes alone with some HD800s, and I've been pining after that kind of sound ever since. I know I can't afford to get there right now, but I'd like to get a little closer. Also, I don't want these new headphones to be as big as the 280's, if possible. I find them too big and heavy to wear walking around.

Preferred Music - A little of everything, but a lot of rock. Usually punk, pop-punk, power metal, 80s/90s pop rock--mainly vocal and guitar heavy stuff. I want to clearly hear the bass, but it should never overpower the rest of the instruments. I also listen to quite a bit of acoustic guitar, and some classical piano.

Location - US.

Your post may be deleted for violating Rule 2 just FYI.

Here are my recommendations though:

• Mount the surge protector under your desk using heavy duty double stick tape or screws if it has keyholes
  
• For your keyboard/mouse cables. If you're willing, the best way is to drill a hole just large enough that they can fit through. Drill it underneath where your large mousemat is. Then cut a tiny slit in the mousemat for them to come through. You can then feed them under down through and under the desk.
  
• Mount your USB hub under the desk on the front off to the left or right side from where you sit using command strips or double stick tape. Easy access to plugin items when needed and just unplug devices when not using. If you're using the ports 100% of the time, it may be better to mount it under the desk towards the back out of the way. I use mine only for short term things like pluging in a headset, SD card reader, etc. So when I'm done I just unplug them and it's clean.
  
• Under the desk you're going to want to buy some cable clamp type things. Depending on your types of wires you may need a few different sizes. I've bought tiny ones for single thin cables, medium ones for a usb or two, and xlarge ones for power cords/hdmi/multiple cables
  
• Depending on your situation, you could also pick up the IKEA Signum rack for under the desk to help with things, or a J Channel cableracewaytype sitution
  
• With all of the management and running things under the desk, I personally found I needed to buy a few extenders for different things. So I had to pick up a couple of USB 3 extension cables, as well as a couple of power extension cables so I could get things all cleanly routed then down/up at one single point to the outlet or computer.
  
  Any other questions just ask. I could always take pictures of my setup and under the desk if it would help, just PM me for those.

I have this one mounted on my roof. It's worked well for years. I don't recall there being ranged models when I bought it, but it was about $100 in 2012. You'll need a clear line of sight of the southern horizon for the best reception due to the distance we are from the DFW towers. Higher is better; you'll want at least 25-35 feet off the ground. The top of a 2 story home is easily high enough. YMMV with a 1 story without a taller mounting pole.

Just for the rack, or is that for everything.

if everything, you should be able to get a basic 300lb weight set at your current sporting good store for around $300, but check craigslist, as you can get weight much cheaper

for a basic rack, I like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UMM4QC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AZW93HRN28RCX

for a bench, I like this http://www.amazon.com/Valor-Athletics-Inc-DA-Bench/dp/B001TJCHES/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

and that should put you around the $800-900 mark depending on if you can get some used weights or not. This pretty much covers the basics, to get you started with Starting Strength


If $800 is just for the rack, then you are probably able to get much better equipment, and I would probably get a package from rogue, as their products are good. So a R3 Rack, weights, bench, and a bar in one package, would come out to about $1500-1700. This would be bumper plates, so would be safe to drop on a platform


other things I would buy

you can get horse stall mat from tractor supply co, and some OSB to make a platform for deadlifting and cleans

A weight tree if conventional weights, or make a weight holder for bumpers, http://board.crossfit.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2060&d=1216003868

College Rulez! (Heh....heh...)

So my major is Visual Communications! And here is how ITT Tech fucked us VC students over:

So upon the beginning of the year as I met with my administrator telling him about my huge passion for gaming and I really wanted to be a game designer! Here is what he said in a nutshell:

"Well our gaming courses are fantastic and you will learn everything you need to know to get a job! But first, we require you to obtain your Associates in Graphic Design. Many job offers require you to have experience with Adobe Programs and other graphic design programs. So just finished getting your Associates, then we will find you a job and they can pay for your Bachelors courses! YAY! :D"

But that wasnt the case. About 3 months before finishing my Associates quarters as my anticipation for gaming courses built up, they sent my classmates and I a bit of bad news. 'ITT will be cancelling your Bachelors program but only for VC student. Sorry.'

So here I was pissed off that I had a degree I dont want, but heres the funny part. I have grown to love graphic design and I am pursuing my Bachelors in graphic design and couldnt enjoy it more! :D

If I win, then I could really use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=EYB47AJ077Y1&coliid=I2E1NQR8CA3G1T) for dual screen. It would help alot when designing! :D Thanks for the contest!

I have been using this one for about half a year with a lot of success. I also bought a big pack of AmazonBasics long HDMI cables to go with it. I think at the beginning I had one issue with a screen flickering, but I unplugged and replugged and I haven't had an issue for a long time. My real issue is when I'm playing PS4 in the morning and my PS3 comes on to auto-update and this switcher auto-switches to the PS3. Gah! Wait a min switchy thing. Just have to push the button on it to force switch when that happens. I like it so far.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-501BN-Premium-wireless-adapter/dp/B0049SCB2Y

If it helps, I have a PS4, PS3, Steam Streamer Box, PS2, and Wii all plugged into it going into a Samsung HDMI TV (not 4K).

If you're curious, I have HDMI adapters in the Wii and PS2, so that's how that works. They also are great and I got them off Amazon, can't recall which obscure brand. Though they do occasionally have their issues since they're all weird knockoff checp things.

Yeah that's what I've heard about wetness, hopefully won't be much of a problem... As for a stove I'm not sure, I was thinking something [cheap and small like this] (http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1) which seems to have pretty good reviews. The Soto looks awesome, would it be a good idea to invest a bit more into a stove or will a cheap one work fine? They all seem to be fairly simple for what they are

I can't find any docks with Dual Link, but with DP output you can use an active DP to DVI-DL adapter. As I said, they are quite expensive. I will give you a link to one that should work just so you can see what to look for. I have no idea if it's good and it's one of the more expensive ones. Link. They don't have to have a USB cable for additional power, but many do.

In the description look for "2560x1600 at 60Hz". Some will say "Will only work with computers able to output DVI signals at 340Hz". That's not a thing, it's just that if it was possible Single Link would work at Dual Link speeds. This makes their product technically not a scam. At the bottom of the reviews, click "See all xxx reviews". You will then get a search bar. Search for either the resolution you need or 144Hz as that's a bit more popular with DVI-DL. If it supports 144Hz it will support 2560x1600 and vice versa.

If you are uncertain feel free to post one you are considering. I can only tell you if it should work as these are very often fragile and break easily.

Sennheiser HD 380's are great. They fold flat, have a great comfy design, and are well balanced. They sound amazing from my laptop. I have to boost the bass when playing from an iPod, but my iPod will drive them well. Very distinct sounding mids and highs, and great sub-bass that isn't overpowered.

The price on amazon is 145, but will vary from day to day:

only downside is the coiled cable which limits portability. I found a decent way to replace the cable and can tell you what you can get to replace it for cheap if you are interested

Little bit late, but I used this on this inner bottom of my desk, right against the bottom of the desktop. It's awesome and super easy. Just peel and stick adhesive on the back and it holds a bunch of cables. It would work the same along the backside of a desk as well.

Cable Raceway

This La Crosse Charger gets among the best reviews on Amazon for chargers, but there are quite a few 1-star reviews that say it has melted or starts fires. Lots of 5-star reviews, but saying "this product probably won't burn your house down" isn't good enough for me.

I own two Maha chargers, this and this one both are excellent. I had my first C401FS break; they sent me a replacement with no charge, so I'm very happy with their service. Not a Buy-it-for-life quality product, not many electronics are, but they make the best stuff in this category.

I know you specifically said base but I highly recommend changing your entire life over to rechargeable eneloop aa's. You'll save a lot of money in the long run since they last for over 1000 charges. Get a good charger like this La Crosse Technology BC-700 Alpha Power Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_nmyOub154D833

I hope to god that links. Not sure how to do it on ialien.

If the radio doesn't have an "AUX" mode, then this really isn't possible to do. Given your car is a 2000, it's highly unlikely an AUX port was even an option.

Two solid alternatives:

1. Purchase an FM Modulator, like this or this. They're relatively easy to install, and you can probably do it yourself. It basically works like an FM Transmitter, but connects directly into your antenna port for a much cleaner signal. It can also be switched on or off, so you keep full use of your radio.
   
2. Purchase an aftermarket head unit. It's certainly cheaper to do an FM Modulator, but upgrading to a good aftermarket head unit will make you happier in the long run. Especially with a stock head unit from 2000, you're bound to start having trouble with it at some point in the near future.
   
   Hope this helps!

I have found the best way of cleaning my vinyl is with the Spin-Clean. At first I was skeptical about buying a piece of plastic at what seems to be a pretty high price. I figured I would give it a try and if it did not work I would just send it back. The Spin-Clean worked very well to my surprise. All my new and used albums gets cleaned by the Spin-Clean before it hits my turntable.

It is almost like a bath for records. The tub holds the water and the cleaning solution. The record is then spun on two rollers between two nice and tight velvet pads. The pads are just like the velvet cleaning brushes people are recommending. So when you are spinning the record in the tub both side are getting cleaned at the same time.

You would think that the record would get even more dirty by putting it in a tub of dirty water. The special formula cleaning solution binds to the dirt and sinks it to the bottom. They say that you can clean about 50 records with each tub. I find this not to be accurate, (I buy alot of used records that are dirty as sin) I get about 20-30 albums cleaned before I have to switch out the water. The solution goes a long way. You only need 3 cap fulls for each bath. I just bought a new replacement bottle (32ozs) of cleaner and it states only use one cap full for cleaning. That stuff is going to last forever.

I have tested albums by listening to them before and after and you can hear a major difference. I would 100% recommend this to any collector.

Can you be more specific as to the particular stove(s) you're looking at on amazon?

A few months ago, I was looking for a cheap backpacking stove and stumbled upon this one on amazon.

Seems to have pretty favorable reviews, and I was going to order it, until I realized that it would be shipping from Hong Kong. If I'd had the time to wait for shipping, I would have purchased it, but I needed something right away.

That being said, I ended up just going to my local REI and picking up the MSR pocket rocket and have been extremely impressed with the performance. It also feels extremely durable, I'd highly recommend it.

Also....that one on amazon has an electronic ignition. It's nice, but the other components will probably outlive it. Plus you're already carrying matches/lighter so it's not like the lack of ignition on the MSR is extra weight.


Just my thoughts!

Let me reply in detail in a couple hours. Got a couple things to take care of.

A side note: live drums is probably your most limiting factor when it comes to starting recording. It involves the most amount of microphones and, thus, the most amount of money to get started on.

Edit:
So, on a $500 budget I would definitely prioritize getting:

1. a USB interface: both the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and the PreSonus AudioBox 22VSL are fine choices.
   
   2)a DAW: the PreSonus interfaces usually come with StudioOne, which is a fine entry-level DAW that shows much promise. Otherwise, since you're on a budget I would recommend Reaper, which is only $60 and has decent functionality.
   
   
2. a decent pair of headphones for tracking/mixing: since your cap is $500, getting monitors for your setup is out of the question. A personal favorite of mine is the Audio-Technica ATH-M50, while others prefer the Sennheiser HD380 or the Grado SR80i.
   
   After you've got these, you can DI that guitar or bass right into your interface and start recording. If you have a decent amplifier for either of those, I would suggest looking into getting a microphone to actually plug into that interface (can't beat the old standby SM57 for guitar amps in terms of bang for your buck).
   
   When it comes to doing drum tracking, microphones would be out of the question for your price range. So, a sequencer/sampler would be an ok alternative... perhaps EZdrummer?
   
   Well, that's all I have for now. If you have any more questions just let me know.

Thanks! I do have a few:

• What's the status on getting a Tablo app for the Samsung SmartTV? I have a Chromecast, but I would like to have one less device in the middle.
  
• Will recording 2 shows at once influence the quality of the playback?
  
• What would you recommend for an antenna? I have this one in mind.
  
• What's the minimal recommended external HD size you'd recommend?
  
  Thanks.

I have one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495980818&sr=8-3&keywords=av+to+hdmi

And it works pretty well with a few caveats:

• It only outputs 16:9 widescreen, so unless you like your games stretched you need to set the aspect ratio to 4:3 on your tv, and some tvs don't have that option
  
  
• Depending on the tv and how that tv handles scaling, it can have some lag. I've only had one tv where it was noticable when playing Punch Out, and when I set the video mode to "GAME" that fixed it to the point where if there was any lag I didn't notice.
  
  
• Finally, you need to use the tv's usb port, or a nearby outlet to power it.
  
  Aside from those things, it's pretty great for the price. I mean NES with it doesn't looks as good as the AVS, but it's a lot better than composite and a pretty good compromise I think.

Corsair Vengeance 1300/1500 look pretty decent. The 1500's come with a USB connection so no sound card required. Atro A40's are also pretty popular (though a bit on the expensive side for gaming headphones 200+ USD) and comes with a nice little mix amp.

If you want better audio quality (for music/movies) I would look at possibly the HD 598's (or cheaper 558's with a little mod) or the ATH-D700. Note that Amazon has a headphone sale on at the moment and the D700's are going for around ~90 USD (Link). The bass isn't as strong as the 598's but they are considerably less expensive. Both the 598 and the D700 are open headphones so you get a lot of sound leakage (which may be an issue). Also you will need to get a mic, something like the Zalman clip on or the AntLion Modmic. A cheap DAC/AMP would also go well with either headphone, something like the Fiio E17 would be fine.

Not sure what is making yours pop, but a Spin Clean record cleaner is handy to have, either way. Especially if you are buying used vinyl. There are DIY solutions out there, too, but this works really good if you have the budget. Cleaned up a lot of records I had that looked perfect, but still had some pops. Also, something to remove the static helps. I use anti-static sleeves.

>Don't let it fool you, its super powerful, and I have even dropped it a couple of times on accident. It's built like a tank. I was thinking about buying two so I can keep one at mom and dads when I visit.

These types of things are awesome. I have this one and I have the same things to say about it. Way more powerful than a compressed air can, constant air flow, and super durable. Everyone should have one of these.

I'm not an expert on display cables but from the looks of it, it seems display port to Dual Link DVI D requires a bit of active conversion for the higher resolutions.

"The DisplayPort LVDS signal protocol is not compatible with DVI or HDMI. However, Dual-mode DisplayPorts are designed to transmit a single-link DVI or HDMI 1.2/1.4 TMDS protocol across the interface through the use of an external passive adapter that selects the desired signal and converts it from 3.3 volts to 5 volts. Analog VGA and dual-link DVI require powered active adapters to convert the protocol and signal levels and do not rely on Dual-Mode. VGA adapters are powered by the DisplayPort connector, while dual-link DVI adapters may rely on an external power source (see Dual-mode).[6]"

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DisplayPort

Seems like the adapter cost almost half the price of the card...

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

But like Ponky mentioned. There will probably be versions with DVI.

The USB is possibly for power so plug that in the PS4.

You’ll need an adapter for the separate cables. I use this Sennheiser adapter with my gaming solution. If this doesn’t work then you’ll have to return your headset.

Just about everyone, myself included, will recommend you don’t buy all-in-one gaming headsets as they are often overpriced for what they are. Instead it’s often cheaper and will almost always yield better sound quality to buy a headphone and then attach a 3rd party microphone (like a modmic, zalman mic, or V-Moda boompro).

Good luck! Link is below :)

https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

If you don't already have a good soundcard like a Xonar or HT|Omega, you're on a laptop, or you use multiple devices and you use headphones I recommend one of these FiiO E17 amps. It takes basically every input type, runs of battery if you want to use it in a portable setting. If you use Coax or Toslink it will support dolby3d and other virtual 3d setups. Use it with the ipod adapter and you can bypass the internal dac on your iphone/ipad/ipod to get really good sound.

Pretty much the best bang:buck you can get for portable amps/dac.

Not OP but, the Titan T-2 design is a prevalent design from a number of manufacturers. ex. Atlas Power Rack and RepFitness Power Rack

From the Repfitness website they list the specs of the 2x2 uprights as 14 gauge. That translates to a 5/64" or ~2mm thick steel. Compared to the R-3 (T-3) 11 gauge steel which is 1/8" or ~3.175mm

The 2x2 14 gauge racks are advertised as capable of holding 700lbs on the j-cups. Comparatively the 11 gauge 2x3 racks can hold 1000lbs

For the average home gym user that weight differential is negligible. Realistically the only time someone would approach the maximum weight capacity would be on one exercise, the squat. And for either rack I'd suggest not ever dumping that kind of weight from max height onto the safeties.

So both racks perform their primary function comparably. Why would someone go for the T-3 over the T-2? That's just personal preference on a number of things. But here are the main differences. The T-2 doesn't need to be bolted to the floor or platform. The T-3 (R-3) has the westside hole spacing throughout the benching area. T-3 has both a 1.25" and 2" pull up bar. There are more compatible accessories (thanks to Rogue) for the T-3. Like OP you can buy spotter arms and bench outside the rack on the T-3.

Of course the ability to modify and expand upon the T-3(R-3) comes with the caveat of cost. The rack is more expensive and the accessories will be too.

I use two of these at work, AMA.

Amazon has this listed at $124.26, so this is $24.27 or about 20% off.

Personal recommendation: They're only 21.5", but the color on them is good and at $99 I think they're worth the price. Haven't done any gaming on them, only office work. One of the monitors had some kind of fault that made it randomly turn off, but I was never able to locate the problem and it seems to have righted itself over time. The base is nice and flat, great for sticking a stack of sticky notes or whatever. Biggest complaint aside from the size is the glossy finish. I work in a bright office, so I'm not looking at a white screen (like reddit or Word), I can see a pretty good reflection of everything behind me.

UPDATE: Someone just reminded me, this monitor is VGA and DVI only. You'll need an adapter if you want to use HDMI or DisplayPort. I use a VGA to DVI adapter for one monitor and a DVI to HDMI cable for the other.

I've never really seen the pegboard before honestly but it just came to me. I wouldn't recommend it though, it took a bunch of time and is only for someone who likes doing organization. As far as cable management tips:

1. My desk, the Alex from Ikea, actually has a compartment built in for cable management which is great.
   
   
2. If you already have a desk maybe THIS would work for you,I'm planning on using this on my next desk.
   
   
3. And if you wanna just do basic cable management, I can't recommend THESE enough. They're cheap, reusable, and work great. You could also add a SLEEVE to keep the wires together.

The most important maintenance of any computer (so be it pc,laptop or dare i say mac) is keeping it dust free as possible. And yes every 2 years change the thermal compound to keep it decent (could do every year if you want but not needed, average lifetime of most compounds is 2 years).

For keeping it dust free try to invest in either canned air (not ideal as it still brings moisture with it sometimes) or a small electric compressor like This.

4-5 hits and I'm feeling pretty good. I've found that the most important factor, is the battery. Like how long to hold the battery before attempting to sip. And knowing how often and how much to sip to keep a good temp. And that as you vape a trench and use up the battery, it takes longer.


Also, about charging them. I don't recommend using the charger that came with your mflb. I know with mine the batteries got really hot with it. I have This One that I got from Amazon. Its fantastic.

That looks pretty good compared to my report. I used to use a monoprice indoor/outdoor antenna and picked up channels 60 miles away (decent line of sight). This was used indoors and on the first floor. There were a few channels I didn't get, including a VHF one 90 miles away. I put an RCA ANT751 in my attic and pull that channel in now.

For my inlaws I wasn't able to pull in a very good signal with the monoprice because there weren't any broadcast towers that were line of sight. We bought a Clearstream 2V to put on the roof because it looks a lot nicer than the RCA antenna. It ended up working really, and you can use it indoors as well.

So my recommendation is the monoprice antenna, first, and then if you want something better, upgrade to the RCA or Clearstream depending on your decorating style!

So vaccuum cleaners inside cases will destroy sensitive electronics, cause static build up, and generally give my nan cancer, so no shoving the hose inside a case to clean it, that's clear enough (not that it's particularly effective anyway).

OK, but then whenever I try blowing compressed air inside the case, I just end up blowing these great clouds of dust out...which then just end up settling back into the case.

Is there a huge risk with me blowing the air out safely with compressed air or this bad boy which I picked up yesterday, and then having the vaccuum hose just OUTSIDE of the case to suck up the disturbed dust before it has a chance to settle? If I'm holding the hose a good foot or so away from the electronics, then it should be electrostatically safe, right?

I don't think you've considered a power rack, but I think you should.

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench-Racks/dp/B004UMM4QC

A power rack or cage, olympic barbell, with 200lb of weights (to start) and you're equipped for doing the best exercises out there.

Have a look at...

http://stronglifts.com/5x5/

which is a very popular strength training program for beginners.

Here is an example build I found by googling...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Fitness/comments/3mls56/home_gym_500/cvg32b1

I found Ni-MH rechargeables to be fairly unreliable, not due to the batteries themselves but with the bodypacks' battery indicators. Due to the wide variety of Ni-Mh batteries on the market that all have different characteristics that will affect their performance, especially how they are charged over their usable lifetime, it's pretty difficult to get a good readout on just how much juice you have left with any given set of batteries. Shure has documented this difficulty and their battery life estimates for Ni-MH batteries vary widely. I can only imagine that other manufacturers face the same difficulties.


You can help alleviate this by manually gathering data yourself from the battery through the use of a smart charger that will also help you keep the battery life stable if used to charge properly. But even with this insight on hand, I was having a hard time relaying the info to performers who tended to freak out when their batteries go from a full 5 bars and then the battery indicators suddenly start tanking. I had seen a graph (From PowerStream's own tests) and read some info (That I can't recall the links of off hand, but I remember reading on flashlight websites and forums) that indicated with Ni-Mh a steady voltage over a certain time period with a sharp drop off of voltage near it's end of life depending on the power draw. That tracked pretty well with my use with the Shure bodypacks which would indicate a full 4-5 bars over a short time period and then rapidly go down to 2 bars. Contrast that with off-the-shelf AA and proprietary Li-Ion batteries which have a fairly consistent set of characteristics and a steady, smooth voltage drain that leads to a predictable battery life that manufacturers are able to tune for in their battery indicator algorithms.

Edit: And that claim on the radio transmissions sounds like BS to me unless they're just referencing possibly poorer transmitter/receiver performance as the batteries die out.

Good luck. You're gonna need a mess of adapters to accomplish that.

What you're going to need to ultimately do is get PS4 audio sent as an input into your PC and connect your headphones directly to your PC so you can hear both at the same time.

So firstly you're gonna need to make sure you have an Audio IN port on your PC. Next is transferring the Audio over to your PC. The easiest way to do this is pick yourself up a sound card with optical input. Something like this could work.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Forming-Microphone/dp/B009ISU33E/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511642837&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4091980011%2C2889460011

Then you could run the optical cable from the PS4 to the Optical IN on the card and have it do live playback.

The second cheaper option would be to get one of these devices.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511642983&sr=1-3&keywords=optical+to+3.5mm

Then run a 3.5mm into your PC. It likely won't sound as good but in theory it should work.

You would of course need to make sure you 3.5mm MIC/AUX Input on your PC.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511643145&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+3.5mm+aux+input

Something like this could work on your PC if you didn't have a 3.5mm aux input.

Obviously you'd need the 3.5mm cable like this.

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Stereo-Auxiliary-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B00LBJ77ZK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511643286&sr=1-3&keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable+25ft

And you'd need an optical cable that would plug into the adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B00NH11H38/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511643360&sr=1-3&keywords=Optical+cable

If you want a pretty boss charger, here it is.

A higher quality charger will make your batteries last longer and do other things like show you the health of each one, charge at different rates (heat/longevity vs speed) and allow you to charge individual batteries without having to pair them up.

I had a pair of Turtle Beach x41 headphones that would eat up a pair of AAAs in about 12 hours, so I was changing them every day and a half or so. I ended up getting 4 Sanyo Eneloops and swapping them out for 2 years in college and they worked amazing.

If you have things that chew through batteries, get good rechargeable and a good charger. If you're going to throw them into your TV remote or something, stick with normal disposable.

Idk, but back in the day when I had this kind of setup I had great luck with inline antenna bypass unit, the sound was near perfect. However, that might be more work than you're looking to invest into this.

Ran into the same issue a few months ago when I upgraded TV’s. Though modding your N64 would produce the best outcome, if you want an easy cheap solution that works just fine, I used this converter from amazon. It works just fine for casual playing and there is no noticeable input lag. All the best!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RLc0DbDW1X6VH

For some reason I can't expand, view your tv report (I'm sure it's something on my side), but I can say that I have a few of these around my property and I'm truly impressed. Can't beat the price. I bought them at $30, but they're almost half the price this week. This one picked way more channels than what Best buy was selling (the Leaf)

1byone TV Antenna, 50 Mile Range Amplified HDTV Antenna with Detachable Amplifier Signal Booster, USB Power Supply and 10 Feet Highest Performance Coaxial Cable-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF70T4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3DJIAbHQQCSWZ

For your standard light dust removal I love the classic discwasher like this one. RCA has since bought out discwasher and uses a different tan color material on the bottom which doesn't work nearly as well as the old black felt. If you want to clean records that have actual buildup on them you could look into a record cleaning machine, but those can get pretty pricey. There are some DIY was to clean off record that you could look into too.

As far as damage goes, you're mostly looking for scuffs and scratches. If there's a scratch on a record you can usually tell how bad it it if it crosses an area of deadwax, like the small lines between songs. If the scratch doesn't show up on the dead wax, then it likely won't affect playback too much. It can be hard to tell by just looking at records. i have some that look pretty beat up, but play well and some that look pristine, but have places where they skip. If you can listen at the store before you buy that's the best way to judge.

I was looking at this one and this one myself. I haven't looked too closely yet, just saw good reviews so tagged them for a closer look at a later date.


Good luck with Prime Two-Day shipping on an inexpensive power rack. The cheapest Prime eligible power rack (like above, full cage, not half racks) that I saw was just over $650 from Amazon with free Prime. It was available for almost $200 less w/ free shipping from other vendors.

I have an 01' but Im pretty sure that this, or something similar, will work and it looks pretty stock, you also need an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor, I got this one
this thing basically bypasses your FM antenna and gives you an aux input, I put mine under the climate control and the input and switch are hidden behind the DIN pocket

it looks like the antenna size might be different in the 06(i cant really tell), but there are adaptors

I got the 363d, and then this adapter:

http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0

(don't pay $30 for it... $15 at most. That one's sennheiser brand and it's pretty good quality, but I got it for $15 and paid for it with some 'free' amazon credit).

Also got this:

http://www.amazon.com/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00OIPOTYG

which is necessary for '3rd party' headsets. Astros may come with them, and they also come with a mix amp that simulates surround sound. If you want surround sound on Sennheisers you'd need to be a mixamp separately. I haven't had much of a problem though with just stereo.

---

Anyway, I absolutely love the 363Ds and couldn't recommend them highly enough. However, I'm not sure about it since you are primarily using your xbox one. They are the most comfortable headset I've worn, I can use them all day with no feeling of pressure or small headaches. The sound is excellent except for very low bass, but I don't like hearing that anyway :)

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

A good way (not the best, but easy and affordable) is with a Spin Clean. I’ve returned quite a few mold-covered records from the dead with mine. https://www.amazon.com/Spin-Clean-Record-Washer-MKII-Complete/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Spin+clean&qid=1570374947&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2LY9PGKPA6CIT&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVVpMWkRGUkdYMjVJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODcwNzUxMUI4TFM2TTA3NlZSWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTU5MTIzQ1NGQjZWNVo5TkdXJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I’ve heard that vacuum-based cleaners are better, and I’ll believe it, but for now I’ve been really impressed with the Spin Clean, especially for under $100.

Alright, who is downvoting all of the Burn-In recommendations? I have these headphones. They truly sounded much better after leaving them on all night each night playing music (for about a week). Burn-in on these headphones is not "snake oil."

Secondly, I ran them directly from my Creative Soundblaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty soundcard and they sounded alright. However, I really believe you would appreciate the expanded soundstage and more-together (not more) low range after some amping. I bought my brother a FiiO E17(which is great for a low budget), and I liked the combo.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.co.uk/IT-Dusters-EGP-COM-011-CompuCleaner-Electric/dp/B00S7CH6FK&ved=2ahUKEwicxZSJg_PjAhVPasAKHeNpD2gQFjAEegQIBBAC&usg=AOvVaw1pgiOPZyqbfClBZb2r0HVu&cshid=1565258738888 sorry for the big link but I've been using one of these for years and it's great, good pressure good attachments.. works a treat.

Just about any head unit that supports A2DP should work... Just go to crutchfield, sort by features, then buy some place less expensive.
I've had good luck with their scratch and dent section too.

IMO, Bluetooth streaming audio sounds like shit. I would at least consider getting USB audio out to work like this guy so that you could use an external DAC like the Fiio E17 or something similar.


Or if you have room for a double-DIN, you could get a SPH-DA100 with ARLiberator for some awesome HDMI display mirroring and music streaming.

Looks like literally every channel is in one direction, southeast of you. My suggestion is to get a directional antenna like the Clearstream 2 (which was recommended on lifehacker recently as the best directional antenna), point it in the direction of all your channels, and hopefully enjoy a bunch of TV.

Great setup! I have a few quick and easy suggestions. To clean up the setup, get some stuff off of the desk. You can use this headphone hanger (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Headphone-Headset-Hanger-Holder/dp/B06Y3XG769/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=stainless+steel+headphone+under+desk&qid=1550788167&s=gateway&sr=8-3) and just stick it up to the bottom of your desk. You could also try buying a cable box (https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Ventilated-Cable-Box-Management/dp/B06XXGWW55/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cable+box&qid=1550788313&s=gateway&sr=8-5) to hide the power strip and then some cable sleeves (https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_phone_search_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A01221601V9IX8PNJM5J1&url=%2FManagement-Sleeve-JOTO-Computer-Entertainment%2Fdp%2FB015HWXG4M%2Fref%3Dmp_s_a_1_1_sspa%3Fkeywords%3Dcable%2Bsleeve%26qid%3D1550788342%26s%3Dgateway%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1%26smid%3DA2C3SMXXIDC93V&qualifier=1550788342&id=5936119191257&widgetName=sp_phone_search_atf) to hide the cables going to and from. Also, you can just remove some stuff from the floor around it, and get a cable raceway (https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Black-Length/dp/B002DNM42O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cable+raceway+j&qid=1550788397&s=gateway&sr=8-3) to assist with the cables under the desk. Great setup! I highly approve of the mic mounting position, but align the right speakers angle with the left (OCD lol). The most important thing is probably the cable box (I'm a cable management nerd. Hope what I said helps.

TL:DR

Cable box for power strip and cable sleeves for wires to and from, hook for Corsairs (I think?), Declutter.

Budget - $80-130

Source - PC soundcard

Requirements for Isolation - No real requirement but some isolation could be nice.

Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear

Preferred tonal balance - I guess neutralish but I also like good bass that isn't overpowering.

Past headphones - Various low-ends, really nothing to mention.

Preferred Music - Mostly electronic(Aphex Twin and such), but all kinds really.

So pretty much I'm between choosing this and this. What's the consensus on those two? I'm also open to other suggestions.

Edit: just saw the price on the HD 558, so now I'm considering that as well.

Edit 2: At this point I don't really know what to get, so I'm just open to any suggestions.

Head here: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?id=295
and get an AMD card that's in the supported cards list. Obviously the newer ones will have more power, but I've read roughly HD 5000 series and up is generally good. Also use this link to grab crt emudriver.

Make sure you have a DVI-I to VGA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Next, get a VGA to 5BNC connector. Something like this, although https://www.amazon.com/Coax-HD15-RGBHV-Monitor-Cable/dp/B0033AF5Y0, although shop around if you want one with higher user reviews, that one has about 3 stars for some reason.

You can roughly follow this guide: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1052#p1052

Although note that you won't have to disconnect your LCD display/main display while you install CRT emudriver. That's how I did it. I still have my main monitor connected and the crt emudriver monitor is a second monitor.

Eagles fan in Oregon here and complete cable cutter. I usually bite the bullet and get the nfl sunday ticket and its great (given you have a good internet connection). nflstreams can just be super unreliable some weeks. I also make the small investment in a hd antenna like the following:

https://www.amazon.com/1byone-Amplified-Detachable-Performance-Cable-Black/dp/B00IF70T4M/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501097582&sr=1-4&keywords=hd+antenna

That allows me to catch them if they are on local broadcast and blacked out on the ticket.

The only games I cant get are those on ESPN and NFL Network. Those I will usually find a local sports bar to go watch because they are typically prime time games

Good on you for going with a gigantic screen. Plenty of upgrade potential sound system wise as well. What projector are you using? Short throw?

A few recommendations - bring those fronts down to ear level, and rears down to about the recommended height of 3 feet above ear level when you are sitting. You could use a stand for the left rear - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HZHUCW/

If your worried about stand stability, use a barbell weight on top of the baseplate to weigh the stand down and make it more secure - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003072HC4/

Cable channels will help hide your cables really nicely - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/

What kind of speakers do you have? What sort of input or jack do they have on them?

'Optical audio' is a pretty common standard for delivering stereo or surround sound over fibre optic cable, and lots of devices support it.

The only way it's important to you is if you were to get a speaker system that accepted optical audio, since you could use that as the output for audio from your PS3. There's also some headsets that use it.

If your monitor does not have a headphone jack on it, your best bet will likely be to get yourself a device such as this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Toslink-Converter-Adapter-Optical-Black-96-Khz-2-0ch/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

...then make sure your PS3 is outputting audio over Optical/SPDIF.

Astro mixamp if you want an amp that can handle both game audio + a game chat (mic).

IF youre ok with an amp just boosting your headset for game audio , you can grab a nice dac amp for $50-$60 off Amazon. I use a dac amp with my Audio Technicas and they sound great. If I want to use my headset + a mic (ModMic in my case), I plug them into my Xbox controller’s 3.5 mm port using an audio y cable. Link at the bottom if you’re interested.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_FNmUBb4XWDQCJ

90% of the time I use Shure e3c IEM's when tracking drums and a portable FiiO e17 headphone amp to boost the weak signal out of my Tascam US-1800 audio interface. The IEM's are very balanced and unlike the other IEM's I have, ever drum that is mic'd up can be easily distinguished and the highs on the overheads and hi-hat are also very clear so I know if I'm messing up on the more intricate and faster rhythms.

I prefer not having very bass heavy IEM's when tracking because the bass will wash out the other toms and it's more important to hear the click on the kick when playing. I mic the kick with a Shure Beta 52A part way in the resonant head and pointing towards the impact zone and then a 15" PA Speaker I modified to be a microphone for all the super low, sub-like thump, but when I'm recording I turn that down in the mix.

Anyways, the point is that the benefits of tracking with IEM's is that you can hear every single hit even better than if you were listening in the room and also that there is less ear ear fatigue from longer recording sessions. Also, in my opinion at least, when mixing for your monitors (the IEM's in this case) it's better to have more of a flat response than huge bass and low end. I'm not totally sure what the current equivalent to my discontinued headphones are but I'm guessing they would be the Shure SE315 or possibly the Shure SE425 IEM's.

I posted on your old post but here's a build.

Adaptor-

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000067SOH?pc_redir=1395091981&robot_redir=1

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor | $152.98 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $54.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $57.98 @ OutletPC
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 270 2GB Video Card | $195.91 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $78.11 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $32.98 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $658.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-18 16:08 EDT-0400 |



And here's a build with a pretty good monitor. (I own the same one and I like it)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-6300 3.5GHz 6-Core Processor | $109.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Asus M5A78L-M/USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $54.99 @ Micro Center
Memory | Kingston Black 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $64.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $50.93 @ Amazon
Video Card | XFX Radeon R9 270 2GB Video Card | $195.91 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ Micro Center
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $32.98 @ Newegg
Monitor | Hannspree HE225DPB 21.5" Monitor | $137.58 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $727.35
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-18 19:47 EDT-0400 |

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DNM42O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the 48" version but they make shorter ones. The stick-on tape on the back is surprisingly good, but if you're really going to weigh it down with heavier cables you may want to put some extra adhesive on the back. So far I love it.

Ok, there are 2 different models of a monitor sort of like that. One is pretty much the exact one I linked, and that has a VGA connector(was used on PCs before DVI came into the market). The newer ones(back is totally clear) used ADC(which combines video, usb, and power into one plug). If you have the VGA one you're in luck,you either just plug it right into the VGA port on your computer, or if you only have DVI, you just need a DVI to VGA adapter. Once you get the monitor connected to your computer, you're all set, just boot up the machine, and it should be ready to go. No software or anything is required.

If it's the kind with the ADC adapter, it's really not worth it, since the adapters for those usually go for over $100. You'll be much better off finding someone selling/giving away a used CRT monitor locally



As far as your other questions go;

2. Don't really think there are many safety precautions you need to take, assuming it hasn't been rained on or anything while in storage. I guess be ready to unplug it when you first test it incase the flyback transformer or something inside is smoking. If you don't have any experience with the inside of CRTs, don't go inside it to clean it out or anything, and you'll be fine.

3. not really sure. Maybe if you put it in a garbage bag outside with one of those anti-bug bomb things or whatever, that will get rid of any insects. Not really sure how safe those are for electronics. Maybe someone else can chime in?

4. Only a little crazy :-P

Budget - ~100-150£ (could push it a little for and EXCELLENT deal in amazon if you find one)

Source - FiiO E10 that I still haven't bought, so it could be changed

Isolation - As much as possible, as I will be using the headphones at work

Prefered type - full-sized

Preferred tonal balance - probably overall balanced sound. No idea, really

Past headphones - Denon AH-C360, Sennheiser PX100, so nothing major. Didn't like that Sennheisers were on-ear, hence new choices (denon and now full-sized)

Preferred Music - classical music (eg Tchaikovsky, Mozart string quartets, etc.) , Jazz (big band), classical jazz (Coltrane, Miles Davis, Monk, etc.) funk (Jamiroquai,..), metal (classical? eg. Iron maiden, ozzy) , rock (AC/DC, doors, ..), electronic/hip-hop (e.g. Tosca, Nujabes, etc.) - a full palette ;)

Location - UK



Unfortunately I wasn't able to listen to any of the headphones, but the two most obvious choices seem to be either Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro-80ohm or Sennheiser HD 380 Pro (links for prices, etc.) Which ones should I choose?

I'm not sure I particularly care about very heavy bass, especially with all the classical music I'm listening to. It should be fun with funk / electronic and similar though..

Oh and comfort is of high priority!

What would be your recommendations? Any is advice appreciated!

I've heard good things about Amazon as well. The biggest complaint I have with EBL is that they get beat up super quickly - the foil label/cover started to tear of mine after only a couple uses. So far I have noticed any jarring issues with performance.

I'd recommend getting something like this charger that can test capacity - I didn't find much difference between EBL / Eneloop out of the package. I imagine that higher end batteries will hold up better over time in terms maintaining capacity and low self discharge, but I haven't come up with any empirical data to support that yet haha.

La Crosse Technology BC700-CBP Alpha Power Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0ViXBb72GYW44

Nice!! Yeah man it works well. I've actually changed my set up since my last post. I now use a Magni 3 so I have my PS4's HDMI to TV and then TV's RCA out to the Magni 3 input. Then Magni to DT770s and separate ModMic directly to controller using one of these

This setup works great for me as I was having a little trouble using a usb dac/amp like I previously posted. For some reason, the usb wouldn't always recognize the mic..

Hope this helps!

I'm really enjoying the Sennheiser Game Zero, it's the same headset as the Sennheiser HD 380 Pro that I was using before, but with a built in boom microphone. Excellent noise deadening, I can barely hear the "real world" with the headset on, it's great.

Since you are gaming on the PS4, running a good headphone and modmic combo will require ONLY ONE of the following -

1. A dac/amp with USB ($$$)
   Example - Creative G6 is $150. There are others but this is a good starting point.
   
2. A splitter so you can connect the headphone and mic to your controller $)
   Example - https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_2?crid=F4345XWFRIM0&keywords=sennheiser+splitter&qid=1556639491&s=gateway&sprefix=sennhei%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-2
   
3. USB soundcard compatible with the PS54 ($)
   Example - https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-usb-sound-card
   
   Personally my current setup for PS4 is a Creative SoundBlasterX G6 dac/amp connected to a HD 600 and modmic 4.0. Extreme overkill headphones but I mainly use it on PC and the G6 allows me to effortless switch between the two. Also I don't like the audio out of the PS4 controller in general so I did not opt for that method.
   
   For $250 I would suggest getting a good set of cans and then using option 2 (splitter) or 3 (compatible usb sound card) to start with. If you don't like the audio quality, then move up to the dac/amp.
   
   Now coming to the closed back can's that you want, there are a few good options that come to mind (please note the order is not a ranking of preference, simply what came to mind first) :
   
   
4. Beyerdynamic DT 770 32 Ohm- $180 on Amazon.com
   
5. Sennheiser HD 569- $110 on Amazon.com
   
6. Sennheiser HD 598 Cs- $ 150 on Amazon.com
   
   ​
   
   I would also wait a while for others in this subreddit to give you their choices in closedback headphones.

I'm out of town for the weekend but I'm pretty sure I have this exact one.

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS

I have my cable box -> splitter -> Xbox HDMI in. I've had this splitter for at least 3 years. I originally got it when I was in college so I could have an awesome man cave. Found out later that it strips the hdcp and allowed me to stream my cable TV to my windows tablet from my xbox. Heres a link for a little more info on hdcp stripping.

http://www.tweaking4all.com/home-theatre/remove-hdcp-hdmi-signal/

For a tent I have the Ledge Scorpion 2. It's light, small, freestanding, has an optional tarp for when it rains, and good ventilation.

You can get a decent sleeping bag at Academy. I have a No Limits 32 degree tent. I wouldn't get anything rated colder than that because they'll be too big. Mine is basically as big as you should ever get. I'd recommend smaller.

For bed roll I I have the Alps Comfort Series. It rolls real flat and is inflatable by mouth.

For cooking system I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U8CP88/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's extremely light and small. Works great with this for cookware: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037DD3R4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Don't forget about a good backpack and a good water purification equipment.

I would not recommend the Leaf. Not because it isn't a good product, but because Grand Rapids has a couple unique and, frankly, annoying traits when it comes to our local broadcasts.

First, the actual broadcast towers of most of our stations are quite a long distance away from the city. WOOD-TV's tower, for example, is down south by Gun Lake. By the time these signals reach the city, they are weaker than what you'd find in most other markets of this size.

Second, most antennae, including the Leaf, are optimized to pick up UHF signals. As luck would have it, most of the GR stations broadcast in the less-common VHF spectrum. The literature of the Leaf will SAY it works fine for VHF, but that hasn't been my experience.

I tried the Leaf at my house in NE GR and could only get WGVU and FOX. I returned it and got a larger unit that I mounted in my attic. I am able to get ABC, NBC, FOX, WGVU, and another half-dozen stations like Ion that I never watch. The only semi-local station that I'm not able to get is CBS out of Kalamazoo due to the longer distance.

This is the unit I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RH5GZI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are a number of options out there, but make sure you get one that specifically talks about its VHF capabilities. In general, mounting an antenna in your attic or an upper floor will give you much better results. If you can mount on the outside of the house, you'll get even more.

I would try something like this inside or near the window. It is a small outdoor antenna but should work better than that piece of paper any flat antenna. If you can get it on the patio or somehow mounted to the outside of the window that would be even better.

I'm sure you can make your own antenna, but how well would it work for your situation? Hmmm..don't know, you might end up spending $100 in material and still not have a good enough antenna. If you can find some schematics to follow online, that might be okay.

I feel ya. Yeah, ditch the zip ties forever, that's the worst strategy.

You can stick these on the back of your furniture and cleanly route your cables down the legs and such: https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+command+cable+clips&tbm=isch

You could also try something like this, if it's not too thick for your furniture. It looks ugly from the back, but who cares. I believe it's designed to be easily trimmed to fit your needs.
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Black-Length-x/dp/B002DNM42O

Or just use those velcro cable wraps =)
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=cable+wraps&rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3Acable+wraps

Here are the parts I used:

• cable raceway
  
• cable clips
  
• indoor mounting squares
  
• velcro cable ties
  
  The cable raceway and the cable clips made the biggest difference. In the past I would just use the velcro strips, which would help with making the cables look more clean, but not with hiding them altogether.
  
  The process I used was:
  
  
• unplug everything from your computer and lay them over your desk in straight lines so you can see all the cables you'll need to route.
  
• find a good spot for the raceway leaving enough room for a power strip to sit behind it. I had to cut the raceway to fit my desk. Once it's sized correctly, stick it to the bottom of your desk.
  
• Route a single wire at a time. I started with the wires coming from my monitor first since they were the furthest away from my tower. I also did the power cables last since they were the biggest and weren't being routed to the tower.
  
• Once everything is routed in the raceway then start using the cable clips to make sure the cables follow the path cleanly.
  
• Use the velcro strips to keep hanging wires together.

Oh, in that case, a cheap wiremold kit is probably your best bet. Make sure it's the plastic though, you don't want to deal with cutting the metal version.

FYI, I'm not an electrician, I just enjoy spending copious amounts of time from early spring through summer accomplishing random home improvement projects on the weekends.

EDIT: This will probably do the job; also, you can paint it to match your walls.

Hello, I am looking at one of these antennas and was hoping to get some opinions on what antenna would be best for me? Any help is greatly appreciated.

https://www.amazon.com/1byone-Amplified-HDTV-Antenna-Detachable/dp/B00IF70T4M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485833437&sr=8-3&keywords=ota+antenna

I use a Spin Clean (http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU). It works pretty darn well.

If it's super dirty, I wipe what I can off first, then I put it in the spin clean, rotate it 3 full times in one direction, 3 full times in the other. Then the trick is getting the water off.

I have a large stack of microfibre cloths (http://www.amazon.com/12-pack-All-purpose-Microfiber-Cleaning-Dusting) that I swap out after every couple records. I put one cloth down on top of a 'lazy susan' (it is circular and spins freely) and lay the wet record on top of the cloth. Then I use another cloth and press it down against the record and spin the lazy susan under it, and it picks up the water. (I try to make sure the nap of the cloth is lined up with the grooves). Then I use a second, drier cloth to go over it quickly and get anything left.

It's a fair amount of work but it goes quick once you have the process down, and you end up with nice clean records.

I don't like how the bench is attached to the rack.

You might like something like this that adds the possibility of doing squats:

http://www.amazon.com/Golds-Gym-XRS-Olympic-Bench/dp/B009PA1KJG/

I have one of these for my home gym:

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Squat-Deadlift-Chrome-Safety/dp/B004UMM4QC/

I like it a lot since I can do pretty much any compound exercise and having the safety pins is a huge plus. Im not sure how I would feel benching heavy weight with the adidas bench when there is no safety mechanism.

What’s your Wii cable setup like? I was using the hyperkin Wii2HDMI cable and was having the same problem.

I play retro games so I had this problem at first but my solution was one of these. I run all of my old consoles to an AV switcher which outputs to a composite splitter. One set of cables is run to my crt tv, the other pair is ran to that AV2HDMI, which is then fed to the elgato. You could forego the splitter altogether, but I like playing on the CRT for authenticity purposes. It’s probably not the best quality just blowing it up like that with the HDMI “upscale”, but at least it was spitting out a signal the elgato liked.

Based on what I have read its hit or miss. If you want to guarantee a high refresh, you need upgrade your monitor, otherwise switch back to HDMI and be happy with it.

Given the cost of true ACTIVE adapters (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-Dual-Link/dp/B00A493CNY/) a new monitor would be a much better investment of your money.

I've never heard of "ahere" as a manufacturer, so I suspect it's a marketing company rather than a company that actually makes and tests the antennas. You have gotten some nice suggestions for antennas people know to be good.

I had good luck with both my ChannelMaster CM4228, but it's large; probably too large for your attic. This ClearStream 4V didn't work as well for me for a very weak VHF station, but my brother in law is using it and likes it. They make a 60 mile version that is smaller and can probably fit in your attic space.

I think upofadown's suggestion for either a Winegard HD7694 or ChannelMaster CM-2018 are good choices. But they are 78" long, and they can be hard to fit into small spaces.

Anything MSR cooking is aweaome, and then for a cheap pocket stove, check this out:

http://www.amazon.com/Ultralight-Backpacking-Canister-Stove-Ignition/dp/B004U8CP88/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1344822829&sr=8-10&keywords=pocket+stove

It's a great great value. If you buy that and the MSR skillet with a gas canister, you're good to go for a while.

It's been about 8 years since I last had this issue (at the time was a 1440p 60fps screen but same issue fundamentally) so really not sure what about these days, back then the adapter ran at around £150 so I ended up not bothering selling the screen on and buying a new one with native DP.

Wish I could be more help but I would be very surprised if that isn't the issue your facing.

something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200/dp/B00A493CNY?th=1

I can’t seem to find one on Amazon at the moment, but back in the day I bought a 4 input AV (you know, the yellow and red/white RCA connections) switcher that had an IR remote control, with this I was able to automatically switch it with a Logitech Harmony remote. By the end, I was using it just to switch audio into my amplifier,

Anyway fast forward to today with home automation. If I was in your shoes I’d get that exact same switch and use a Broadlink RM Pro with Home Assistant to Control the input source selection via IR commands sent from Home Assistant.

There was another passive switch I had before the one with the IR Control (I got tired of getting up and changing it) it was literally passive and the press of one of the 4 buttons would connect the RCA connections to the output connection terminals. Maybe a switch like this could be taken apart and connected to a bunch of relays controlled via your Pi’s GPIO.

Edit: here’s the passive switch that could be taken apart and wired to relays: C2G/Cables to Go 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vnWNBbSJWG6VM

For digital audio you can get devices like this to convert it to analog and then connect it to the passive switch: PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5pWNBbPM4GDN8

(This is what I did back in the day with the third generation Apple TV’s optical output)

Can't offer any help on what you bought, but can recommend the approach I took to this....

FM Modulator

Pair that with a Bluetooth receiver and you can even have Bluetooth music at the flip of a switch. Have been using it for years, works excellent

Edit:

You'll probably also need this too... look into it... relatively easy install

I recommend either Sennheiser HD 380 Pro or Sennheiser HD 280 Pro.

I like the 380's over the 280's and I have worn both extensively. On the 280's the main drawback is the tightness of band on the ears; after extended use is can hurt taking them off. The tightness does come with some benefit though; it almost creates a vacuum environment that block outsides sound from leaking in... almost noise cancelling. The 380's have a lighter grip and a lighter construction overall. They do not weigh down on my head as much nor grip as strong as the 280's. Of course, that means sound from the outside does leak in a bit, especially at low volumes, but little can be heard once the volume is turned up. I can wear the 380s for hours, and feel so comfortable I have barely feel them on.

You're probably going to need a microphone as well; I like to stick with the Zalman clip on. I attach it directly to the headphone cord and works great!

As a side note, both of these headphones will need to be burned in to really notice the quality. I work with the 380's for music production and music listening as well. They are really versatile headphones.

The search term you're looking for is "cable trays." There are hundreds of variants, but something like this might work for you. Lifehacker also has a tag for DIY cable management. You want a cable tray that can sit between the two tables.

Or if you really just want to keep the tables with a half inch gap or so between them and have the cables drop down to the floor (but please, for the love of all that is holy, put in a decent cable management system instead), you could stick some shims (or even cheaper) pointy end down between the two tables on each end.

You don't have to spend hundreds of dollars on a machine to clean your records. I'm sure your other purchases would love a good cleaning as well.

Here's some affordable cleaning setups:

• official Spin Clean
  
• $40 clone
  
• DIY route (photo album deleted)

Cable raceway (I have this one i like it alot): https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Black-Length/dp/B002DNM42O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491691968&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+management
Wire clips (I have these as well they are pretty handy): https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Adhesive-Management-Holder/dp/B01HR9VS4I/ref=sr_1_sc_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491691977&sr=8-3-spell&keywords=cablemangement
Cable sleeve: https://www.amazon.com/Management-Sleeve-JOTO-Computer-Entertainment/dp/B015HWXG4M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491692072&sr=8-5&keywords=cable+management
Cable box: https://www.amazon.com/Bluelounge-CableBox-Black-Management-inches/dp/B0019T0JA2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491691993&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+box

There are some items that will help. I have the cable sleeve, cable raceway, and cable clips. I hear the cable box is nice i don't have one because my power bricks are on the roof of my desk. gl

I bought this one to use with my PS3:

https://www.amazon.com/HD-102-Powered-Splitter-Certified-Support/dp/B005HXFARS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478808828&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Orei+HD-102+1x2+1+Port+HDMI+Powered+Splitter+Ver+1.3+Certified+for+Full+HD+1080P+and+3D+Support+One+Input+to+Two+Outputs+%28Black%29

Worked like a charm when I did extra life. Hope it helps! :)

Yes, just make sure to use an active converter. The passive (unpowered) ones can't pass enough bandwidth to the monitor to drive 1920x1080@144hz. I have three of the active connectors and they work fine. Expensive, though! (~ $100).

Here's an Amazon link for the ones I use:
https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY

I splurged and got a little pricier one: http://amzn.com/B0049SCB2Y

I was going to get a cheap 3 input one, but the 3 input from this brand wasn't much more. And then once I had that it wasn't much more for the 5 input. I too had three devices and one input, so I decided to get the 5 input switcher in case I added a device in the future. Now I'm glad I did since I'll be adding a chrome cast.

I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't give you a long term review, but so far it's worked great. I just have my Wii U and PS3 plugged into it right now and it automatically switches between the two. I don't think it will work with a Roku though, because the always on screensaver thing will make the switcher think it's always playing something. It comes with a remote control to switch manually. My TV has 3 inputs so I'll be putting the chromecast in one, Roku in one, and the switcher in the other for all my gaming systems and cable box.

That's a good way to get a deep clean but for the maintenance everyone that spins vinyl should have one of these. I usually run my wax through it every few plays and dry them off with a microfiber cloth. I was told once that it was like cleaning your glasses, if you never clean your vinyl it's like never cleaning your glasses. Totally worth the buy to maximize your audio experience.

http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406746303&sr=8-1&keywords=spin+vinyl

Yeah, it's compressed air and a propellant, like butane or something, to make it expand even more. That's why the shit gets cold when you spray it. I think I might just get something like this, though. Mini-reverse vaccuum. That's all one really needs. Never buy canned air again!

Nice setup! One way you can fix the cables is buying cable sleeves so they all run through one place and stay in one place. A cable box to cover up the power strip would go nicely as well.

Really affordable, made my setup look really organized and appealing after only about half an hour of installation

Here are the links if you’re interested :D

Cable Box:
GoStar Cable Organizer Box - Large Black Cord Management Storage Container with Non-Slip Pads - Cover & Hide Power Strips, Adapters, Device Chargers, Ethernet, Computer & USB Cables & Electrical Cords https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DCYP67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oAs5Ab4JCE0T6

Cable Sleeves:
Cable Management Sleeve, JOTO Cord Management System for TV / Computer / Home Entertainment, 19 - 20 inch Flexible Cable Sleeve Wrap Cover Organizer, 4 Piece - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HWXG4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YAs5AbTD33BED

1. Keep them stacked vertically like so:
   https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3610/3603521573_d308f3b61c.jpg
   
   Keep them out of direct sunlight for long times as well.
   
   If you want to protect the cases, check this out:
   
   http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-Record-Outer-Sleeves-/370832311308?pt=US_Music_Mixed_Lots_Other_Formats&var=&hash=item565754040c
   
   2: Cleaning? If you REALLY want to give them the works, you can get them professionally cleaned with a VPI machine but that's expensive, costs around 3$ per record. I'd recommend this:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/SPIN-CLEAN-STARTER-RECORD-WASHER-SYSTEM/dp/B002UKSZUU
   
   Everything you need to know is in the manual! I also just ordered a VPI machine, by the way, so I'm going to make a post soon on my thoughts.
   
   3: Not really. Just carry them by the edges/inner label, and keep them in their proper jackets when they aren't being used.
   
   4: For #4, see the above comment.
   
   Have a nice day!

there are a lot of diff cable hider things like this one, its not perfect but is way better then just having them hand down like that

https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK50-Cord-Mate-Kit/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497541406&sr=8-2&keywords=conceal+a+cord

I purchased these in August 2014. They are both still like new in box condition. I recently upgraded my desktop to utilize TRS/ XLR because the RCA connections created a static background with my powered speaker while playing games. I never had any issues while listening to music or watching videos. If you don't use a powered speaker, or if you don't play games through speakers, this is an awesome DAC/ AMP pair.

I did use the E17 in my car for about a year to act as a signal amplifier to my radio input. But I always kept it in the case so it doesn't have any scratches. They look brand new. The only issue I would mention is that the LCD screen does show a "burn in" because I have used it almost every day and so the text "USB IN" is visible on the screen. If you don't understand what I mean by LCD Burn In just ask and I will try to get a picture of it.

I'm having trouble finding the specs on FiiO's website, so I'm including these Amazon links for reference. When I get off work I'll try to do a little more digging.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510938798&sr=8-2&keywords=FiiO+E17&dpID=41txNfEtYYL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510938798&sr=8-4&keywords=FiiO+E17&dpID=41CpZWsDoyL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I paid $248 for the pair of these, and I'm firm with my $150 price. Shipping will be $10 USPS Priority Medium Flate Rate. Paypal preferred, but I'll accept a check. They will ship once the check clears, which takes about 3-5 days.

I realize I'm new here, so I'm happy to use a middle man if that's a thing on this subreddit. I've done a few trades in both r/Starcitizen_trades and r/pkmntcgtrades

https://www.reddit.com/r/Starcitizen_trades/comments/6qummw/psa_confirmed_trades_thread_august_2017/dmdh1yz/?context=3

https://www.reddit.com/r/pkmntcgreferences/comments/4yxrum/supremegunmans_reference_thread/

Any questions I'll try to get to after work.

Thanks

We're talking like $120 for an active DP to DVI adapter which supports 144hz.

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Dual-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=DP2DVID2&qid=1554150153&s=gateway&sr=8-1

You'd honestly be better off just buying a new monitor

I have one of these. It cost about 1k.

Squat/power rack: very versatile. you can tie up a sub in a number of different ways. mine has a pull up bar built in. it holds up very well to both lifting and kink use. you do NOT need a 1000 dollar power rack. this is the one i have: https://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Power-Squat-Deadlift-Bench/dp/B004UMM4QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1465612231&sr=1-3&keywords=power+rack

Bench: doubles as a bondage bench just fine

barbell/weights etc.: this is the bulk of the expense. I use these for powerlifting, not necessarily for kink.

deadlift platform: this is good for both deadlifts AND if you build your own its pretty cheap. with high quality wood it is fine for bare feet.

boxing bag: I have a heavy bag (100lbs) bolted into the ceiling. i reinforced the attic with 2x4 and some 4x4s. it will easily work for suspension or swing with the extra support.

Sennheiser HD 380 PRO are excellent at $125 on Amazon, or the older model (slightly less excellent but still very good) is the Sennheiser HD280 PRO which Amazon is selling at $78.

They're both studio quality headphones which provide a flat response suitable for mixing (although I'm sure you know it's no substitute for mixing with decent monitors in a treated room). If you just want something to listen to your music and you're not too worried about an accurate frequency response then something cheaper will do fine.

Sennheiser and AKG are the two brands that I would personally recommend.

For $6 you could buy this stove 15 times before buying a $100 MSR once. I'm pretty happy with it. Worth getting and trying for a weekend. if you don't like it it's a great stocking stuffer.

I can't tell who's serious and who's joking.

If serious, in addition to what you said, I'm the sort of guy who always has a stash of rechargeable AA batteries. Powers my scanners. Also, a good AM radio that runs on AAs.

I like this charger

And these AA batteries

I'm in 2 land, so power outages are more of an issue here. Like, with Hurricane Sandy.

If your sister's got a few warped records, a record clamp would certainly be useful. Cork mats OTOH tend to be less staticky than felt so would certainly be useful in dry environments. Should you be leaning towards the record clamp direction, Pro-ject will sell you one. You could also perhaps consider buying other stuff, like record cleaning kits, test records and/or gauges to help her set up her new turntable.

Oooohhh... I've been looking for something just like that! Thank you so much!

I found These though, and I think I like the plain look a little better. Still, thanks for the idea. I do need to grab a couple of logner cables, since some things are sort of stretched.

I use Eneloops. I have both the old Sanyo and the new Panasonic onea and both seem to perform identically. As for a charger, I can't recommend the La Crosse BC-700 enough. I used to use the cheap wall bricks (like the Amazon Basics one) but they tended to stop charging after a year or two. Also, they don't intelligently charge so they could be reducing the life of your batteries (see the "edit" below.) The La Crosse has stayed with me for 3 years and it has so many options that help improve the life of each battery. Most cheap chargers ate around $10-15 USD and the La Crosse is typically on sale for $35 USD. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSOV50/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Vq8Xzb7J1J3G8

Edit: One of the big advantages of this charger is that it reads each individual battery and only charges it as long as it needs. Most "dumb" chargers (especially ones that charge in pairs) uses a set time charge and can reduce the life of your batteries.

Edit 2: there is some evidence that the Amazon Basics rechargeable batteries are rebranded Eneloops. So for those who want to save a couple of bucks, you could get those instead of Eneloops and you'll have comparable, if not identical, batteries.

You should always wet wash records you buy, new or used. It will help knock down static and your stylus will last longer.

There is a ton of ways to do it. Some people do a DIY solution with a spray bottle.

I’ve since upgraded but used a spin clean for quite awhile. That or any of it’s clones is a great starting point. I would recommend sticking to their solution as it contains a focculating agent which causes dirt particles to clump together and fall to the bottom.

like upofadown and Mr_You said you can get a flat antenna with an amplifier ..

This seems to be a popular model and it is amplified .. but this is the type they are suggesting and its probably a good bet.

https://www.amazon.com/1byone-Amplified-HDTV-Antenna-Detachable/dp/B00IF70T4M

MagicJack Express
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJ10fS3gr3Y

http://www.magicjack.com/magicJackEXPRESS.html

Check online prices from known retailers you might get a deal $20

I have an older standard MagicJack but i have a $99 5 year plan and thats good to have if you can afford it because it locks you in with your phone number and your service

Also you can use the App from your phone and place calls over VOIP using your home number on the road and also receive your home calls when you're on the road but I have not tested receiving calls just placing them

N64 would be a good fit for you. It uses Composite(Red Yellow White cables). So you would need a HDMI converter. I recently bought a cheap one from Amazon to last me until my Frameister came in. For $14, it was very fast response time up scaling to 1080 on my flat TV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GG6PW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Protip: Get an N64 Everdrive V3 to play all N64 games(even fan translations/hacked versions). You can still collect for the system but having all games on the console ready to go is nice if you don't want to hassle with changing carts.

What is the resolution of the monitor?

If it's greater than 1920 x 1200 (i.e. 2560 x 1440/1600), you likely need an active DP to dual-link DVI adapter, such as this one:

Startech DisplayPort to DVI Dual Link Active Adapter Converter

The active adapter will need to be plugged into a USB port to power it.

Otherwise, you will be fine with just a passive video cable such as this (much cheaper):

AmazonBasics DisplayPort to DVI Cable - 6 Feet

A feature many people don't know is that you can get any normal headset to work when using a combo audio adapter as long as it has a 4 pole jack plug. Recommending this one
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-PCV-05-Combo-Adapter/dp/B00IM36VU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457793178&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+audio+adapter

Saved me some bucks.


FF14 has a 14 day trial period on PSN if that's your genre. Uncharted collection is great, Last of Us remaster is great, Alien Isolation and Until Dawn are a good buy.

Might be easier to just get an amplifier that has speaker-level inputs. The speaker wires from the head unit go to the amp, then run the amp outputs to the speakers you want. Usually the speaker level inputs on the amp have gain adjustments and some other switches.

For the mp3 player, I'd put an FM modulator between the antenna and the head unit. Like THIS. You select the radio frequency you want to 'inject' the aux signal at and tune to that station to hear it. I think some of these units even integrate bluetooth.

Also, check out /r/carav for possibly better info.

Fair enough! I've been using the german version of this thing for a few years now, and while it might be slightly more expensive than the apple thing, it has a shit ton of useful functions and is very reliable. Also look up some eneloop reviews, they basically behave like disposable batteries, i.e. all the advantages thereof, and mine have all been working great since 2011 when I bought them. Worth every penny!

Can I ask why you couldn't just use a decent squat rack over a full on powercage?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UMM4QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1456917795&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=squat+rack&dpPl=1&dpID=41s60Tve16L&ref=plSrch

Something like this for a home gym would be perfect. Looking at your design it looks like your gunning for something more commercial sized. But looking at your lifts at around 500lb, that would be overkill.

I'm not trying to shit on your idea mate, just trying to give you another route to go. And one that may very well work out cheaper in the long run.