(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best hardware products

This is a scary situation. I would recommend involving law enforcement to the extent that you can, if you can do any more than you already have.

Besides that, first priority is perimeter hardening. Cameras may provide some deterrent but won’t protect you if someone comes for you. I know it’s a rental but maybe you could convince the landlord that these are upgrades done at your own expense. Or just don’t tell. Reinforced door jamb

Door Armor MAX - Complete Door Reinforcement Set For Jamb, Frame, Strike Plate - DIY Home Door Security - Aged Bronze https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9J2FDbK66084S

Upgrade to steel door or similar if your door is not strong.

Add security film to the windows

BDF S4MC Window Film Security and Safety Clear 4 Mil (24in X 13ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRLI2PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_192FDbNYNR641

Next, I would also add a security system with door/window sensors that sets off a siren when triggered. There are many, Ring is a popular DIY currently

Ring Alarm 5 Piece Kit - Home Security System with optional 24/7 Professional Monitoring - No long-term contracts - Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7Q6CHB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rg3FDbYQSMX46

I would recommend paying for professional monitoring at least for a couple months so that it calls law enforcement for you

Next sleep with a pepper spray of your choice beside your bed. I like this one

SABRE Red Pepper Gel - Police Strength - Family, Home & Property Defense Gel with Wall Mount Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002368VJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Rp3FDbPZRWD5X

AFTER you have done these things, yes add a camera or two. Might provide some deterrent, might help you go after them if they do property damage. Wyze cams are cheap and decent. Will need an outdoor housing if installing outdoors.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076H3SRXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3l3FDb2MGD3RM

Good luck, be safe

Some smart locks are "key free", meaning they don't even have a key hole. I like this very much because it is way too easy to pick most locks. My door only takes a bump key and a couple of whacks to get through, yikes! Seriously, just watch some YouTube lock picking videos and it will freak you out. Been thinking about Yale Assure Lock SL with Z-Wave Plus but I haven't settled on that one yet. Would really like both 0-9 and A-F on keypad for more combos, or at least a few extra characters.

I wouldn't let my locks be integrated with a smart speaker, no way. And yes, there are huge issues with remote access and cloud access type locks. A little scary. But considering anyone can get into any of our houses by just breaking 1/8" of window glass I'm not sure remote access is a big deal, especially if its a feature that can be turned off...I hope.

My front door smart lock preferences:

1. Key free lock.
   
2. Must be Z-wave for smart home direct access. No cloud or wifi access or at least able to turn that off.
   
3. Auto-lock if someone forgets to lock it.
   
4. RFID or biometric would be a bonus. My garage entry door uses fingerprints, and it auto-locks in a few seconds. To hell with keys! But it isn't Z-wave :(
   
5. More automated crap in my house!
   
   These kind of locks are very pricey at around $200 USD. I would only buy brand name here and from a reputable place like a big box store. At least you'd be pretty sure it's not a clone or knock-off. And it would be easier to return.
   
   Just my 2 cents. Cheers! (Let us know which one you get, if you do.)

Defer to your further research as to whether it is OK to fix it up or get a new one. It does look a bit worn out from my perspective, but if it holds you and it is leak free, might be worthwhile. My advice would be to stick close to shore though :)

What you have is a type of "touring" kayak, which will be fine for a local lake. If you're looking for something with a larger opening, get a recreational kayak instead. Types are reviewed here: https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/kayak.html

Definitely a good idea if you have a pool to watch some Youtube videos and try out techniques.

As for paddle, I can recommend https://www.rei.com/product/766595/bending-branches-whisper-paddle

For PFD (personal flotation device), I recommend https://www.amazon.com/MoveVent-Dynamic-Paddle-Sports-Orange/dp/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491528039&sr=8-1&keywords=onyx+life+jacket

Also, you'll need to think about how to transport it. For instance, last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:

foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks
straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft
tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dropping this here just in case..

Obviously, actual soft close hinges are ideal, but we hope to redo our kitchen in the next few years, so I didn't want to go thru the hassle or cost of replacing all the current hinges. So I installed these instead: https://smile.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ

They work much better than I expected.

Again, yes, hinges are far better. But these are super easy on time and money. Cheers.

Tech: Smart plugs / switches. I'm partial to Wemo and second to TP-Link. Could get a few plugs for under $100. Pair them up with logitech pops someday (the starter kit is $100 right there, I'm just mentioning it because the two work well together.

Universal fan controllers, I can't speak to any brand/style I could recommend. You would have to research that one, but something like this https://www.lowes.com/pl/Ceiling-fan-remote-controls-Ceiling-fan-parts-accessories-Ceiling-fans-accessories-Lighting-ceiling-fans/4294395598 I personally like the wall mount ones with a remote. So you can use the wall switch as normal and the remote as a bonus.

​

Non Tech:

Easy off toilet seats. Ever take a seat off before? Years of poo under the seam. Something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEMIS-Lift-Off-Elongated-Closed-Front-Toilet-Seat-in-White-1500EC-000/100120881

Pair it up with a plunger that doesn't suck. IE buy an expensive one that won't get stuck and splash poo water all over your walls because you have the $10 cheap one from wally world.

​

Garbage disposal. You can get a little badger for $100. But that's gonna end up being a DIY project to keep your $100 budget.

Soft-close cabinet door dampers. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ Again, you're on your own to research a brand/style. But they sell them at big box stores too.

​

Edit:

Bathroom fan timer switch or humidity based. Either get one with button for 10 20 30 whatever min run time, so you can let your bathroom vent humidity out after a shower. Or one that auto turns on at X% humidity. All sold in big box stores.

Hey well i was using some pack but basiclly the parts are: arduino uno, rfid scanner (with card) and i use this one to scan nfc devices too it works but it's not very secure because i use only two letter insted od rfids 8.. the display is 16x2 and i used display driver that xonvert screen to just 4 pins insted of 8 (but actually it use some pins down there i thinl dogital or idk but all of normal pins are free) some buttons, ir reciever, 2 rellays one is arduinos and seccond is standard one i just set digitalwrite(HIGH) to the + pin of rellay and - just connect to GND on arduino) and well that's pretty much it.. i got them in serbia so links wouldn't be helpfull but you can find everything by just typing the name in like amazon or ebay etc.. and the box i made out of difuse plastic layer from lcd screen haha and than spray paint it .. UTP cable to connect arduino box with staffs in room annnd i think it's laptop adapter (12V for lock) and than there is part that step down 12v to 5v but my father give me that so i have no idea what is that but you can find it on google it's cheep i guess (for arduino power) and that's it very budget project.. eeh yeah i forgot the main - lock.. it's just electric magnet that i control via relay sinc i cannot install standard pkwered lock (like ones on buildings)

Link - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JERC00S/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1504426101&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=electromagnet&dpPl=1&dpID=41QbTw4wkDL&ref=plSrch soo i got something like this it's cheep and very easy to fit on any door but you can buy standard electric lock if they fit on youre door and then use rellay to control one wier.. ask if you need some help or some more links and sorry for waithing :D

Got the Yale Assure a few months back on Prime Day. Really happy with it so far. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2C4QQG

If your door is not able to obtain a smooth lock/unlock motion due to frame issues than the motor won't work great in this one, but all of the "smart" features are really awesome on it. ZWave module connected instantly w/ smartthings, PIN works great every time, pretty responsive. My only issue so far is that I can't manage the PINs from an app!

Edit: oh, I'm an idiot, there's a Yale Assure smart app... ha. Doesn't have the best reviews, but it does have PIN management so there's that!

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

You can get a good scale for about 20 dollars. Make sure to have you scale on a level surface(you can buy one of those levels with the bubble in it for like 3 dollars) and make sure to calibrate your scale before every use. Also keep your scale clean and make sure you keep it somewhere where it won't be dropped or anything.

Here's a good scale

Here's a cheap reliable level

Here's a nice little scooping tool for your powders

Stay safe my friend!

• Electromagnet
  
  
• Exit (emergency) button
  
  If the power goes out, there is no "remaining" anything -- the door is going to be unlocked regardless of what state it was in before. That's where a UPS can be helpful if you're really worried about it. (Keep it locked for 30 minutes, for example.)
  
  
• Here's the electromagnet at the bottom of the door. (Don't mind the mess, need to sweep.)
  
• Here's the electromagnet + exit button at the top of the door. Hold the exit button while opening the door, and the door will always open.
  
  I could have done a better job with the wires, but ehhhhhhh..... It's never going to look awesome, so at that point I was just kind of done. Oh yeah, another reason why I had to give it a little bit of play was because the corner brackets I used aren't exactly 90 degrees; they're more like 88 degrees. So giving it a little bit of spring flexibility made the whole thing a lot more reliable.
  
  Also watch out against using screws that are too long if you're anywhere near the glass. The pane of glass doesn't stop right where the wood begins; they overlap some.

My wife and I used to do a lot of overlanding in my 2001 forester in much the same way that you describe. We had a similar setup to your third inspiration picture, although we had quite a bit less space under the bed than that.

I built a wooden platform out of plywood that was basically exactly the same height as the rear wheel wells (the forester has a flat spot on top of the rear wheel wells). I cobbled together a wooden frame that just rested in the back of car, it wasn't actually secured to anything because I built it into the car so there was nowhere for it to go. That left me about 10 inches below the platform for storage. I had just about 3 feet of space between the rear door and the back seats to work with so I installed 2 sets of heavy duty drawer slides and built some shelves out of cheap plywood. I added a few dividers and a mount for a camping stove on one side, and left the other one completely free of dividers.

This basically gave me 7,000 cubic inches of storage on each side, so one was usually food, cooking supplies, and utensils and whatnot and the other side was usually camping gear like clothes, furniture, binoculars, climbing gear, axe, lantern/flashlights, and toilet paper.

I can't really take any pictures because I tore it apart after our second kid and needed to haul kids in both of our cars.

EDIT: You might have pretty good luck posing this question over in /r/overlanding

I don't recall exactly. Like I mentioned most of the 2x4's were leftover that were laying around I had to buy 4 or so to supplement what I had on hand. In addition to that I bought the following tools as I didn't have them before and I was just getting started;

• #4 bench plane $149
  
• Ryoba Japanese Pull Saw $99 This thing is great, I had never used a pull saw before.
  
• Glue (not nearly enough glue so I ended up getting the [gallon](https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Titebond-III-Wood-Glue/dp/B009O3JRBC/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1493824721&sr=1-2&keywords=titebond+iii+gallon
  ) or so later which I have a lot leftover from
  
• Chisels I've since upgraded to narex bevel edge chisels. The dewalts are fine but as I'm getting into finer work the thick edge makes it hard to work around in tight spaces like dovetails. $30
  
• [Large front vise] (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-large-front-vise) $109
  
• Lots of clamps I don't recall how much I watched for sales and tried to get them when they were on sale.
  
• Lumber ~$30-40 but as I said I had lots of what I needed on hand. I would expect material cost to be closer to $200-300 if you had to get everything.
  
  So roughtly;
  
  
• Tools: $400-500 + clamps
  
• Materials: $40-60 Lumber & glue (most people will spend considerably more here)
  
  The cost included a lot of startup costs for tools for me which will be long lasting. You could save quite a bit of money by buying used but in my local market planes are really hard to come by and hand saws are non-existent.

I'd like it to fit in my current space and those measurements do, they're very close to the existing table that is in this space.

About the glue joint:

If I choose to do biscuits, what's the easiest and best way to do it without owning a biscuit joiner or should one really purchase a biscuit joiner?

If I go with dowels, what's your dowel size that would be used on a 2"x12", assuming your typical 2" label coming out to 1 3/4"?

And I forgot to ask in my original post, Is this wood glue acceptable? Of the multitudes of woodworking videos I've watched on Youtube (wood whisperer, Frank Howarth, etc) they seem to mostly use titebond.

Edit: Also in regards to sanding the edges in preparation for a butt joint, what grits are you supposed to be using and how do you make sure that your sanding doesn't make the edges uneven? I don't have access to a jointer, is that something I should have done to the boards prior?

I also use toolboxes to store my collection for privacy purposes and they function perfectly. This is my current toolbox and these are the locks I use on it, they are smaller luggage locks as the holes on the toolbox are smaller than normal. If you need a slightly smaller and cheaper box I would also recommend this toolbox and this lock as I had used them in the past. Note that when using these boxes you may want to lay a microfiber cloth or something on the bottom of them so that your toys don't get potentially damaged being placed directly on the metal surfaces. Best of luck!

Depends on if there's an easy way to climb up to your windows.

Something like this would be ideal for a door, but make sure there's enough clearance to install it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/

If there's not enough clearance, then something like this could be your next best bet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RI7OQ0/

Thank you for not doubting my successes, I don’t think everyone here would have done so.

I agree that all it takes is "one ordinary oopsie" for things to go badly, but that is where responsible owners make a difference.

As a lifelong dog owner you know that not every dog is going to be Lassie, some are going to be reactive and other may even be aggressive in certain situations (and their owners may not even know), but that does not mean the dogs should be put down.

These dogs can thrive with responsible owners and proper training to be great companion dogs and family pets.

Among many other things, a responsible owner will:

• Use reliable, high-quality equipment including collars, leashes, and harnesses
  
• Check his leash/collar/harness for weaknesses and connect the harness to the collar and the harness to the leash. A better description and pictures can be found here
  
• Pass his hand and wrist through the handle/loop of the leash so it can’t just be dropped (people should do this with all dogs)
  
• Use a leash of appropriate length (six foot maximum) and no retractable leashes. I find a six foot leash too long and use a 4-5 foot leash
  
• Install auto-close devices on his doors so kids forgetting to close a door is not an issue
  
• Put himself between his dog and any potential issue
  
  I’ve had reactive dogs pull and lunge and never once has one even been close to getting away from me. Even if the dog “escapes" the harness, the collar is connected to the harness and the harness is connected to the leash which I wrap around my hand and wrist so the dog isn’t going anywhere.
  
  It comes down to responsible owners. I am more concerned about the irresponsible owners in my neighborhood than I am about their dogs who may or may not be reactive/aggressive. In almost all cases a dog can be trained but when it comes to people stupid is forever.

That is an interesting idea for hiding a TV, I've never seen anything like it. That being said, it looks like the doors are running on a normal drawer slide. So I would guess that one of two things are happening right now.

First is that drawer slides are not meant for this application. Any lateral force pulling the door away from the wall or uneven load, could throw the slides off balance, cause twisting and cause extra friction. I would see if there is a track at the top or bottom or a retaining rail keeping the door from straying from the intended path, and putting extra pressure on the slides. If there isn't one, I would consider adding a retaining rail of some sort to prevent that from happening.

My second idea is that the installer might have used standard drawer slides that aren't meant to hold that much weight. So the slides have worn out over time and they don't work like they should. They make heavy duty ones that can hold more, and a switch to those might work out. Depending on the weight of each door, you could look at something like these:
220lb: http://www.ovisonline.com/30-Drawer-Slides-220-lb-Heavy-Duty-Full-Extension-P1693.aspx
500lb: https://www.amazon.com/Drawer-Slide-Extension-Heavy-Capacity/dp/B0009OBPH4
The weight is per pair of slides, you only showed 1 slide for the door in the picture, but I'm assuming there's a second one at the top. If not adding one to the top might also help. Remove and weigh the doors to determine the slides you need, bigger is going to be better here since this is a non-standard application. Also make sure to measure for the length you'll need on the new slides.

You can get some good (for practise) Masterlocks on Amazon for pretty cheap. Apparently the safety locks are really good for practise as they have some security pins in them.

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-40DPF-Shielded-Stainless/dp/B00004SQKX

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001927I94/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_2?qid=1458397269&sr=8-2-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=master+safrty+lock&th=1&psc=1
Try these out

You'll need at least one d20 and one d6, though it can be helpful to have one for each player. You'll read the 6 face of the d6 as a 5+keep rolling.

I'd suggest playing it a few times and seeing if it becomes a regular thing for your table before buying a bunch of tokens or counters. You can get the same effect by just writing on the character sheet, or using Post-It Notes or some other homemade method for now.

Torg Eternity can definitely played Theater of the Mind but a lot of folks like to have something more visual. Just like any other RPG, you can use whatever works, like Lego minifigs, random game pieces, homemade tokens, etc. I have all the tokens because I get the Kickstarter box sets, but in the past I've made my own character tokens with online art, a 1" hole punch, and some of these.

The foam I used was the first that came to mind when I made it but there's probably an alternative. I wanted something that would fill the center so it was more sturdy and that I could cut and shape. It also had to be light since I'm not all that strong.

The foam that I used isn't really all that bad. Just made sure you wear proper protection (mask, goggles, etc) and have a garage or outdoors to work in.

But if you're a bit concerned still, maybe try this? It's an expanding foam in an aerosol can. But you'd have to make sure you have a tarp out since it sticks to a lot. Once it sets, you can cut at it. I'd make a shield shaped casing and spray the foam into it if I were to use it (kinda like spraying it into a bowl... except shaped like the shield). I honestly don't have much experience with it but I've heard good things about it.

I'm not sure what else would work but I hope this helps! :)

You could put things like http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/clear-self-stick-rubber-pads-452045/ http://www.amazon.com/3M-754ES-12-Piece-Self-Stick-0-16-Inch/dp/B001QCXXWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290449459&sr=8-1 or http://www.amazon.com/Waxman-Style-Gripper-4-Inch-5-Inch/dp/B000SL0KJM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1290449484&sr=8-7 around the inside of the box. They should cushion the Plexiglas and unless you're putting a LOT of wear on them, stay in place for quite some time. Depending on the self-adhesive on the rubber padding, you might have better luck trying to find one that doesn't have self-adhesive on it, and using super glue or something similar to hold them on firmer.

We have one with a key: "Yale Assure Lock Touchscreen Keypad with Z-Wave, Satin Nickel, YRD226ZW2619":

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2C4QQG

and two without a key: Yale Assure Lock SL with Z-Wave Plus - Key Free Door Lock with Touchscreen Keypad (YRD256ZW2619):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076WZT4VD

They work well for us. You don't need to get the August version, as they will connect to Abode via Z-Wave.

We don't use geofencing to unlock the doors.

Good luck!

I don’t have any great suggestions for fixing the doors, but as far as installing slow close hardware I like these:

Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_221-Bb03M09E0

I installed them probably 3 years ago and they still work great, for a fraction of the cost of replacing the hinges with soft close hinges.

This is super awesome you can use it to "double up" your closet. I honestly also double up clothes on a hanger, if you have a maxi dress fold it over the horizontal part, and put a shirt normally over it. I also don't mind the look of a simple metal clothing rack in a bedroom with a mix of basics and some more fancy pieces mixed in.

This is from an earlier reply I've made.

picture of the door (also yes, the color is ugly, but I'll repaint it at some point).

You can do what I do.

Door Table! All you do is buy a door, buy some adjustable legs, a screw-in keyboard tray if you feel like it, and screw those motherfuckers together!

Advantages

• It's a stable table. You got a solid core wood door. None of that hollow core cheap shit. I can stand on mine if I want (and I am a pretty goddamn big guy).
  
  
• You can make it whatever height or size you want. Want it to be half the size? They can and will cut it down to size for you at the hardware store. Want it to be twice as high? Adjust those legs whatever size you want! That's why they're adjustable!
  
  
• Dirt fucking simple to make. Some hardware stores might even do the work for you in the store. All you have to do is predrill the screw holes and screw the legs in. That is really it is to it. Took me about two hours on mine, and I don't do any kind of handyman work.
  
  
• It's a massive table (if you don't cut it down). It's more of a work bench then a table. If you look at the picture, I have room for my dual screen monitor setup with room to spare. If I need to work on a separate project, I just glide to the left on my office chair.
  
  
• It's modular. Need to move it? Unscrew the legs from the mounting bracket, you're done! Need drawers, just buy some ones on wheels you can slide under it. Need a keyboard bracket, just buy one and screw it. Want cable management? It's just wood! Drill a hole!
  
  Parts
  
  Door
  
  Door - $66. Note that this one does not have a finish coat, the one I bought did (it's pretty easy to paint, or find one that has a basic weather coat). Can't see anything in america (my one was made in australia).
  
  edit: same door with white primer
  
  Obviously, you'd have to pay for the entire door even if you do cut it down. That being said, it already has a finish coat, and for the quality of the wood (and the fact it is already in a table shape) it is worth the $66.
  
  legs
  
  Ikea GERTON adjustable leg * 4 - $25 each, for $100. Amazon also has a heap of legs, but your mileage may vary (example)
  
  if you are going to cut it down to half the size (or less) you can use these half-diameter legs and save some space/money:
  http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30264301/
  
  accessories
  
  And that's about it! You can add a fifth leg if you want the extra support, but you don't need it. All that is left is a keyboard tray, like this.
  
  Once you're all said in done, for a couple hours of work, you will have an extremely sturdy and customizable desk. It's also hell of a lot cheaper to do then to buy a premade desk.

I’m not a host (I’m a guest), but in my own home I have one of the Schlage keyless locks. It locks immediately and is programmable. It’s great.

I’ve been looking to upgrade it to one that will integrate with my home alarm system and be programmable on my phone. I’ve been keeping my eye out for sales on the Schlage FE599NX because it does both, and is basically otherwise exactly the same.

I don’t like the locks that wait 30 or 60 seconds to engage without pressing some button. I want it fully automatic and locked instantly. This one does that.

This is not a mat suggestion, but if you are interested in reducing noise, here is something that worked for me. I put these dampers under each leg of my Kurt Kinetic trainer and they work great to prevent vibration from transferring into the floor.

You might be able to use these in conjuction with a mat.

Nice job! A few suggestions:

A couple of your bends could be easily leveled. The CPU>Rad bend is a little too tall on the vertical axis and the bend coming out of your rad to the pump is too long horizontally. That's what's throwing them off (unless you intended for it to look a little wonky, nothing wrong with that).

You can buy little bubble levels like these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054G62KW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which are easy to place on your runs and check to see if they are even. If you want to do this just carefully shorten the respective axis until you see it's level.

Second, I'm a convert to leak testers, like EKWBs (Alphacool also makes one). Those are meant to be used with an empty loop and pressurizes it with air via a little hand pump. If the gauge hold the same pressure after 15-30 min then you don't have any leaks waiting to ruin your day. I started using them after every flush/clean (which I did a lot just building at first) and it's saved me a lot of time and grief, not to mention no leaks.

This one works great for me.

Yale Assure Lock SL with Z-Wave Plus - Key Free Door Lock with Touchscreen Keypad - Works with SmartThings, Wink and More (YRD256ZW2619) in Satin Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WZT4VD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aodtDb5967FK1

If it was a piece of machinery I'd have gone for a foam pad like this. Ideally that's what you'd stick between the source of the vibration and the ground. But it should work for your bed.


You can get puck shaped rubber feet too.


Depending on the vibration you'll want a different hardness. As this is just transmitted vibrations, these may be a little stiff, but might be worth a go.


I can't really vouch for either of these items in particular. And they do seem to report a bit hit and miss with the reviews. I suppose the hard part will be making sure that your bed stays on top of them and doesn't crush the material they've made from.


Also, make sure you don't have the bed against the wall, because the vibrations will be transmitted up that too.


If you want a low tech solution, cut tennis balls in half and stuff them with a firm foam.

I had this issue with one of mine. I had heard about the rubber dot that wears out under the touchpad. I took the controller apart and replaced the worn out one with some other material (the edge part of one of these) and it has worked great so far. The only problem I have now is that the one controller has a brand new rubber thing and I can feel how bad the other rubber dot is getting and will need to replace it eventually as well.

It wasn't that exact thing from amazon, but it was similar and just an idea of the material, it was just thin yet dense rubber with an adhesive back side. The thing that is in the controller from the manuf seems to be a slightly foamy rubber or something. It was kinda soft to the touch, so I can see how it would go out.

I personally didn't want to wait for them to futz around with RMA because I knew it was an easy fix and I was very capable. I was back and playing that same day.

Amazon has them I believe.

I like this design as you could even put one of the van tents attached to the back door a sitting area. Pretty sweet.

Edit:. Here are some 36" 500 lbs ones. https://www.amazon.com/Drawer-Slide-Extension-Heavy-Capacity/dp/B0009OBPH4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_328_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31jBKOPgl7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL480_SR480%2C480_&refRID=XQDMWSYA2V0GB3H6Q8G4

Thank you! This definitely feels like the way to go. I'm considering these to strengthen the back, and I'll pull the Alex drawers forward so they're flush with the front.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DSZVTI/

I suggest a small cooling pad between the two. Basically anything nice an cheap that has lil legs that can raise up the WiiU, and still allow controllers to fit on the other side. Whatever you get, get some felt pads for under the feet!. Heck your Ikea chairs scraping on the kitchen floor will thank you.

Last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:

foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note that with the straps, you'll want to twist them so that they don't make an awful buzzing sound!

These little bubble levels. I recommend going to hardware store and picking one out yourself instead of buying through Amazon though.

I tried to redesign my room without one. Never again. They're not just for hanging pictures, you can use them for assembling furniture, adjusting monitors, and all sorts of things.

Just surprise me with something from my wishlist if I win.

For tie-downs, you'll likely need two straps on the sides and two tie-downs on the front/back and something underneath the kayak to hold it in place and not damage it/your vehicle.

For the front/back, you can get this one, which I just got as it has good reviews on Amazon and the ratcheting combined with the carabiners seemed good to me: http://www.amazon.com/Malone-Racks-SpeedLine-Ratchet-Tie-Downs/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463786146&sr=8-1&keywords=malone+tie+down

For the sides, I just got 2 of these from REI: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft

I also simply got just a couple foam blocks for the top of my car, although I suppose with a Jeep it might be something different: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks

My kayak is a Loon 120 from REI. I like it, but perhaps a bit on the pricey side for a new kayak, although it looks like it is on sale now: https://www.rei.com/product/100146/old-town-loon-120-kayak-black-cherry

I have the Kwikset Z-Wave door lock.

And I use the Samsung SmartThings hub to control it. Set up a custom door lock manager provided by the community and I am able to set up to 30 codes. Have codes only valid on certain days, etc.

It's pretty easy to set up.

Definitely is sketchy. When I use to workout there I got myself one of the Round Padlock that’s used for storage lockers. Lol. Not sure if Crunch or GoodLife is any better in Jackson?

You two should try Masterlock 141D's. They're practically everywhere, easy to pick, and give great feedback when setting the pins.

​

Link to Amazon's 141D listing for reference.

Yale YRD226-ZW2-619 Z-Wave Plus Touchscreen Deadbolt Assure Lock. I love it, it's easy to use and very responsive. The only problem is that while it arms my Ring Alarm when we leave by pressing the keypad, it doesn't disarm my system when entering the code on the keypad when we return (even though I have this setting turned on).

Its very easy now. Get one of these controllers and then one of these zwave door locks. Use this free android app to control it.

The locks that look like these generally work with the comb picks.

Good luck fitting these tools in anything worth picking, though >.> I've got the Comb BAR set, and this is probably going to be the only set of comb picks I'll ever buy due to their uselessness.

Oh! It's magic. Spray in whatever weird shape you want, let it expand into a shoggothian mass of foam, then carve into shape. Great for oddly shaped props that really need to be lightweight.

I believe I used Kamui's tutorials for this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O23TM-z0OXk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDDo83M68Kk

And the particular brand I used was this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/GREAT-STUFF-Filler-Insulating-Sealant/dp/B0002YW0W0/ Had to use two cans for the bow.

These are great too. I was skeptical until I watched a video. Definitely worth the money.

Taken from u/ttchoubs from the original post. You can buy your own kit to protect your door like this Ü:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fDnJDb6NGQW9A?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app

One already exists, although I had to deviate in one area - aligning the stock gasket.

I found the stock gasket lacking in thickness and glue. I found a substitute, used the stock to determine the diameter, and replaced.

My CLICK is much more satisfying, and has been dropped many times to ensure reliability.

EDIT* Guide to fix
https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/comments/4fyk6p/vive_pre_trackpads_broken_click_fix/

Thanks /u/illuzionvr

I replaced the gasket with the material here:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-Rubber-75-Inch-16-Inch/dp/B001QCXXWS/

...I used the material found between the feet, the stuff that gets discarded.

Whoops! Can't believe I completely looked over that haha. I'll update the post.

I ordered 5 legs in total, 4 as a set and an additional thicker one for support in the middle of the back of the desk.

The set of 4 legs was "Black Adjustable Table Leg Set - Set of 4": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DSZVTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the 5th leg was "28" Tall Office Height Table Leg - Matte Black": https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WIXH8M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't recommend this enough. Connect it to any home automation hub and you can remotely change the codes. Get notices when accessed and by who. Program codes to only be active at certain times. Good for housecleaner access. Can let someone in remotely.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083GJ17G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a great idea!

To make it even easier:


1 inch Felt Pads

I inch printable labels

1 inch wooden disks

No cutting required.

perhaps. I installed the locks 5+ years ago. Just found the z-wave cards a month ago.

edit - I found exactly what I ended up with
https://www.amazon.ca/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-Deadbolt-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HG2E5Z6VB6AHH4V991KF

keypad and auto lock was the key requirement at the time of purchase as I had a toddler that liked to open the door if it wasn't deadbolted. the key pads have been really useful compared to using a key to open it.

I feel you on the closet space issue! I bought this hanging bar a couple months back to help with my closet organization. I try to only keep seasonally appropriate clothes in my closet, but it's pretty hard in the fall and spring - for example, 80 degrees Sunday/yesterday/today, but it was 65 on Saturday and it's supposed to be 55 this upcoming weekend

Titebond 3 is what you want. It's a little expensive but definitely worth it.

Thanks for the reply! I've already done this, as per my post. The ones I bought from Amazon aren't stopping the vibrations, though. Do you have any recommendations from ones that will definitely stop the vibrations?

These are the ones that I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GUYZWK/

thats a good idea, but tbh those drawers are about 75 bucks each and gets too expensive for me, i think im gonna go for this table - its a crappy plastic table, but it is height adjustable and its 48"x23" which i think is the ideal size for me - i think if i put a table cloth or bedsheet over it, and maybe some desk leg pads like these if it's not stable enough.

think that's a good idea?

You can buy these now. Much easier to install and accomplishes the same goal (sorry for the long link). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D.u0Db0RP3NYH

You could try some weatherstrip seal?

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Brand-284426-Adhesive-Weatherstrip/dp/B0025KUSX2

Or you could try some great stuff foam, it has a "straw", might be able to angle in space?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YW0W0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Here's a simple idea that's electrical rather than mechanical...

Buy this electromagnetic lock and this power supply and this remote controlled outlet.

The bare wires of the lock easily click into the green plug of the power supply. Then you plug that into the remote controlled outlet.

The two metal parts of the lock magnetize together when electricity is present, and come apart when there's no electricity. The remote toggles electricity on/off.

So you build a box or use an existing door, and mount the two metal parts of the lock to it to secure it.

Players find the remote elsewhere in your game. Then upon clicking the remote they unlock the electromagnetic lock. For greater effect, install a spring in the box so that the box lid flies open upon clicking the remote!

I had two of these. I had to replace both, because occasionally (every few months), the keypad would be unresponsive. Taking out the batteries and putting them back in would fix it. The replacements also exhibited the same issue. Also, HA can sort of set the usercode for users via Zwave, but you cannot read the usercodes back like you can with the Yale (Schlage only shows asterisks).

I got the Yale yrd446 instead. https://www.amazon.com/Yale-Assure-Lock-Z-Wave-Plus/dp/B076WZT4VD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543331477&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=yale+yrd446&psc=1

The Yale is Zwave plus, you can set and see the usercodes over Zwave with HA, it has a speaker that will alert you when the battery is running down and also allows you to get the lock working with a 9-volt battery if the battery is dead. As a result, I got rid of my keys because none of my locks use them anymore.

This is probably the best option. As the other guy states tho remember drywall is not that hard to break. However I think instead of breaking a hole in the wall I would have shut the power to her room off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=asc_df_B00E9ZGWH25447553/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00E9ZGWH2&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194883046452&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8590878167858146609&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023683&hvtargid=pla-314702811283

Yup. Expanding spray foam. That stuff is awesome. Unsure about brand, but looks like Great Stuff Expanding Spray Foam

Schlage makes a zwave one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083GJ17G

I've had one for about three years, and found it works great.

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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I first picked a Master Lock #3 Link and this Link. The second one is neet for learning as it has a big key way and only 4 pins. You can single pin pick it or rake the shit out of it. I got them both from target.

I'm using ones similar to these with a sticky back. Make sure the console is level, too as that helps tremendously with noise.

I feel ya. For what it's worth, the door was just a plain flat thick piece of wood, no holes for a door knob or anything like that. It's quite robust, went with these legs for it.

Just a thought for ya.

Uncle Bob's used to do a name your price for the first month where you can literally pay a penny for the first month. Public Storage has a $1 special for the first month. In both cases after the first month you pay the "normal" rate. At Public storage there is a one time Administration fee (I think $15) and I am pretty sure Uncle Bob's does the same.

The normal monthly fee can vary widely within the same company, this is do to location. Wanna store at the Public Storage on 6th street? That's gonna cost ya so shop around in terms of location. The flip side of that is some of the cheapest rates are in the worst part of town and get broken into more frequently than the nicer more expensive areas of town. The people that work there will try to sell you insurance (optional but if you decline it you have to sign a waiver stating if your stuff is damaged or stolen you won't sue) and a lock like this. You can bring your own lock if you have one or buy one somewhere else but it has to be the type of lock in the link. This is for your benefit as these type of locks are pretty easy to cut and get your shit stolen.

My wife is a manager at Public Storage and an ex-manager at Uncle Bob's. She told me a funny story about working at Uncle Bob's when they were running the name your own price. Some guy walks in and asks how much a 5x10 was she quotes him the regular price and explains the special. He named his price as the regular going rate. She just wrote up the paperwork and told him to sign on the line.

Nah. You need something to go in the hole and seal it from the inside.

Great Stuff 157906 Insulating Foam Sealant, 12 oz, Cream https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YW0W0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fLx2DbHDZKH41

I prop my ps4 up on 4 of these guys. They're excellent for airflow under the console.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008GUYZWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this maybe? You just hang it from the top rod.

https://www.amazon.com/Whitmor-Double-Closet-Rod-Organizer-/dp/B000QWKP7K?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-iphone-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000QWKP7K

If there is significant rot you should look into replacing the compromised sections. To plug holes I have found "GREAT STUFF" works pretty well depending on the size of hole. They sell it at nearly any home improvement store and even Amazon

If the problem is only around the screws, your only real solution would be to replace the bad screws. Again, if you don't feel comfortable getting on the roof because of structural problems it may be time to replace the rotted sections.

I'm probably in the minority here, but I am not a huge fan of these systems, as there is so much wasted space! I have no problem putting a dresser in a closet. We have 4-drawer dressers in two bedroom closets.

All of our current closets and pantry came fitted with basic Closet Maid wire shelving, and that's fine with me. We have canvas or fabric sweater and shoe organisers and some boxes that fit in the sweater one. I use banker's boxes or plastic storage bins on the upper shelves. I also make use of doubling rods, basically a short closet rod on two long hooks, so shirts can be hung on upper and lower rods.

btw, if you are set on a closet-shelving system, check your lease, and verify that you can remove it when you leave. Some leases require that anything attached to the walls becomes the property of the landlord. This protects them from having huge holes left in the walls.

If that is the case, be sure that the system you choose will leave only clips attached, which you would leave behind while taking all the expensive pieces with you!

So automatic door hinges, and park a roomba in front of the door. It will close your door and vacuum your office.

In all seriousness, my first thought would be an electromagnet. If you plug it into a smart outlet, you can shutoff power, and the door will close (if you switch to self closing springs.)

https://www.amazon.com/Holding-Electric-Magnetic-Electromagnet-Fail-Safe/dp/B00JERC00S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=electromagnet&qid=1566215183&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Something like that (although, I would want one that isn't as strong. You don't need that much holding force.)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2C4QQG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_3inSDbNXT7B90

I find Z-Wave locks are always a pain in the ass to get paired initially, otherwise it works perfectly. I can send you my automation tomorrow, was pretty easy to get working

They aren't that expensive for something like this but who pays is between you two, maybe split it since it helps you both? You don't have to remember to close the door anymore and roommate doesn't have to clean cat pee.

I ordered this relay module online in hopes i could use it to control the electromagnet. Would this work instead of a mosfet. I could solder the 12vDC electromagnet into the 12v adapter wires to power it and the arduino from the same source? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VRUAHLE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is the magnet i ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JERC00S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another option - if you have a closet, get a closet extender. I got this one off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Whitmor-Double-Closet-Rod-Organizer/dp/B000QWKP7K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1540825025&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=closet+extender&psc=1). Then put a few options for her to pick out that are seasonally appropriate. We've been doing this for a few months now and it's worked really well.

As for the coat, we're dealing with that too. We give her the choice to wear it or not. If she doesn't want to wear it, then we just bring it with.

I used these for the locking slides and these for the non locking. Figured I just needed one side to lock. They are pricey but they are heavy duty for sure.

Another fun option, the makers of self watering planter suggest wood glue

Link 1: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:903411

Glue itself: https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-International-1414-Titebond-3-Ultimate/dp/B0002YQ3KA

Yale Smart lock..?

​

https://www.amazon.com/Yale-Assure-Lock-Z-Wave-Plus/dp/B076WZT4VD/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=248HG4NZYK8UA&keywords=yale+smart+lock&qid=1557162808&s=gateway&sprefix=yale+s%2Caps%2C174&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I just use Zwave keypad locks. Walk up, punch in a code.

like:

• https://smile.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Touchscreen-Deadbolt-SmartThings/dp/B00AGK9KOG
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I
  
  Since it's Z-wave you can also add it to your home automation software.
  
  If you're familiar with home assistant (the software I use to control the z-wave network) it has a concept of presence, so you can create a person and associate them with an item (such as phone mac from wifi client list) to use as a conditional. So I can do things like set the lock to unlocked whenever I am home, and auto-lock it if I leave the house. For me it's a garage / house door, rather than a lab room or office, but the idea is the same.

Are you able to remedy this situation at all?

Spray Insulation Foam works well.

Are your windows taped up?

Foam strip insulation around your doors and windows?

Hey fellow 4runner owner! Here’s what I use. The Thule straps are awesome. So simple to use and so secure. Using an additional 1 foot webbing loop, I’ve strapped 2 iSUPs (6” thick apiece) to the roof.

Thule 531 Express Surf Strap Blue One Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MZZF4U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1h5YCbYYRSS84

Dorsal Aero Crossbar Roof Rack Pads for Car Surfboard Kayak SUP Snowboard Racks 28 Inch Long [Pair] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00996WIJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Om5YCbTYKFA1H

Since I have to travel on the freeway to any body of water, I also use bow and stern tie downs.

Malone Auto Racks SpeedLine Mini Ratchet Tie-Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SVX1CbT7QYMAZ


I have iSUPs but sometimes I’ll inflate at home and strap to roof the night before. They way we can just put in right away when we get there. I deflate after our paddle and put in the back on for the ride home.

I would see if this kind of lock would fit and use it. I'd like to see someone cleanly cut that. I may actually switch my lock to this.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-40DPF-Shielded-Stainless/dp/B00004SQKX/ref=sr_1_8?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1454177043&sr=1-8&keywords=padlock

you saved 15 dollars.

Yes depending on a cell phone can be the wrong way to go. But the pin code one seems really good. . It allows me to generate a 4 digit code so I can email it to my guests.

This is the one I'm considering Schlage FE599NX CAM 619 ACC 619 Home Keypad Lever with Z-Wave Technology, Satin Nickel http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0083GJ17G

And having a Realtor style lock box hidden somewhere as a backup

How is it opening? A door closer would be a much simpler solution.

https://smile.amazon.com/Prime-Line-KC10HD-Safety-Spring-Closer/dp/B003DQGEMQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1525885428&sr=1-5&keywords=door+closer

Something like this that you close in your hood and trunk Shoreline Marine Propel hood Trunk tie-Down Loops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CRBXQUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W04-ybYDMSS41

And the ropes Malone Auto Racks SpeedLine Mini Ratchet Tie-Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IHQHYPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q14-yb5825GX5

Dont even need to spend that much. Just epoxy a mini level into the rail. Much more durable and wont get snapped off as easily.

Darice 91095-01 Mini Level Picture Hanging https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054G62KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mnOwCbRWFG9XP

Here you go.
Yale Assure Lock Touchscreen Keypad with Z-Wave, Satin Nickel, YRD226ZW2619, Works with Alexa, SmartThings and Wink https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2C4QQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HgSUCbF2R6X2D

Schlage Z-Wave Home Keypad Lever FE599NX with the Abode Security and Home Automation Hub.

This is what you want, but a gate leg table would work just fine. If you're concerned about stability you can always put two legs on the table.

I bought some felt pads for some chairs in my house. With some left over, I put four of them under my ps4. It seems makes the console quieter and gives more airflow around it to keep it cool.

The console really shouldn't overheat if there's enough room for it to breath. Don't put it inside of a closed off cabinet.

Main straps I open the doors and go through the car. I do that mostly for speed because I don't have to worry about the extra length of straps. Got them from Home Depot:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-in-x-12-ft-Ratchet-Tie-Down-4-Pack-FH0829/206802316

When I travel more than 20 minutes to the lake, I strap down the front and back using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBXQUK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed a hitch on the car, so the rear tie downs get tied to that.

So get a door closer (I own this cheap thing and it works) and a lockset that is always locked. This will make the door secure every time, for less than $50 and 20 min of your time.

I am not saying don't install cameras, but I do feel you should stop inviting them to enter, too.

I use these things. http://www.amazon.com/Waxman-4719095N-1-Inch-Self-Stick-Oatmeal/dp/B001WAK5X4 and they work great. BUT my stands are clamp stands and these won't help make anything stick.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-18-ultimax-subwoofer-and-cabinet-bundle--300-7099

https://www.amazon.com/Polyfill-Stuffing-Polyester-Pounds-Schonfeld/dp/B0085A87NY

https://www.amazon.com/Titebond-Ultimate-Wood-16-Ounces-1414/dp/B0002YQ3KA

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU3000DSP-BEHRINGER-iNUKE/dp/B005EHINAS - 1250 watts RMS into 8 Ohms (bridged) for series voice coils.

Cabinet + driver is $425. Polyfill is under $10 per pound, less if recycling pillows. $11 for the wood glue. $280 for the amplifier, $240 if using Amazon Warehouse deal. Total cost is right around $750, a touch higher if you need to rent some clamps for 24 hours to put it together.

Of course, my whole post is sort of wasteful because I see that the driver is out of stock.

We use one from Schlage and have never had a problem with it. Although there is a small monthly fee. http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-FE599NX-CAM-619-ACC/dp/B0083GJ17G?tag=ama-prod-id-20

If one did this, one might consider a padlock such as this, as it is harder to cut with bolt cutters.

Again, not that anyone here would recommend such conduct.

Reduce what you own. Even if that means taking your rarely worn stuff and storing it in an under bed box.

Remove the door and replace it with a curtain or nothing (tension rods can be found in very long sizes).

Get one of these, preferably and adjustable height one to maximize your hanging space for shirts, etc https://www.amazon.com/Whitmor-Double-Closet-Rod-Organizer/dp/B000QWKP7K

A rug probably couldn't hurt either. Another option if you want to throw some money at it are rubber or foam isolation pads. Amazon sells some: Vibrapod - Isolator Isolation Feet - $24 and Ideaworks JB6368 S/4 Anti Vibration Pads - $5, there are a few more options as well. They may or may not work but they might be worth a shot.

If you have a compatible zwave hub, and don't need the bluetooth entry, you may want to consider one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-910-Traditional-Electronic-Compatibility/dp/B013KZRTTG/

https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-Deadbolt-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/

Here's a kit if you want your door to do this too.

cheaper alternative someone recommended on an astronomy forum: https://www.amazon.com/Ideaworks-JB6368-Anti-Vibration-Pads/dp/B008GUYZWK/

I haven't used these, so I can't tell how effective these are.

They'e not screws, but these

There's also a Schlage one. I know people who use the August one.

Edit: Apparently Kwik makes some too.

> drum tacs.

Would these work instead of paying $20 for 4 Drumtacs?

I was thinking the same thing. Try these Chair Leg Floor Protectors for about $5

Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G83iDbZV34G40

My grandparent use one of these.

The soft close hinges are kind of expensive. I used these in my kitchen.

Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lACxCb1PZKEKB

Here

Get this!

One option is to try to reduce the noise at the source.

You could buy a set of these for each machine and see how much that reduces the noise

https://www.amazon.com/Ideaworks-JB6368-Anti-Vibration-Pads/dp/B008GUYZWK

Add these

https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HH9PZAHVK79YMX24J3RR

I bought a $5 lock and it is much sturdier than the one in the video

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Padlock-Aluminum-141D/dp/B00004Y8C6/ref=sr_1_5?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1520903501&sr=1-5&keywords=lock

That would work. These are the combinations that I have used:

Hub: Vera Edge Hub or Wink Hub or Wink Hub 2

Lock: Schlage Connect Deadbolt and Schlage Connect Leverlock

Batteries last about 6-8 months in the deadbolt and >1 year in the leverlock.

That's a bit overkill. https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-Deadbolt-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/

All of the doors I use on a daily basis are keyless. The rest I keep in a lockbox.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-40DPF-Shielded-Stainless/dp/B00004SQKX

Non-mobile:

• Felt rounds
  
• felt tape/strip
  
  ^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

http://www.amazon.com/Darice-Mini-Level-Picture-Hanging/dp/B0054G62KW/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_z

Have I got a product for you. Automatic door closer.

End of discussion :p

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002YQ3KA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502036539&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=titebond+iii&dpPl=1&dpID=41RDbuNSm-L&ref=plSrch

There are larger sizes available but this is a good size for the first one you buy

Wow that sucks. To help deter that from happening again at the gym get a disk lock they are more difficult to cut with bolt cutters. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SQKX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416160152&sr=8-1

Round felt furniture pads under furniture and under feet of TT. [LINK](Self-Stick 1-Inch Furniture Round Felt Pads for Hard Surfaces, Oatmeal, 48-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WAK5X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m.8rzb5R8FZXS)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DSZVTI

Eight screws per leg and it's rock solid.

Get some of this stuff - expanding foam - should be able to pick it up at any hardware store. It's basically Styrofoam in a can and has a flexible nozzle - you should be able to squirt it into the holes in the locker, filling it with a foam that will rapidly harden, ruining anything inside and making it very hard to open.

It's more of a joke than it ever was, rap music I mean. Some of the "classic rap" wasn't actually bad, but this new "gangsta rap" crap makes me want to spray Great Stuff in my ears.

All you would need is felt applied under whatever you don't want to scratch.
Felt rounds are widely available and cheap. Maybe you want felt tape/strip for longer applications like a dresser or something, you just cut it to length. Or you need a custom size or shape, you just get felt pads and cut it up.

They're a bit ugly, but soft-close dampeners will do that.

Not that I want to discourage sales, and this is just a quick price check, but one smarthome.com item, after a 22% discount, is still 23% more than the amazon.com item. Another, after 22% off, is still 8.5% more than Amazon.

Wow, sounds like you need to move them to someplace less confined/dusty, I know I had my PS4 inside my TV cabinet and it gave me no end of problems, fan chugged loud due to heat and the dust in there clogged the vents and the Playstation controller would slightly lag out sometimes because it was so close to the router and the signals interfered with each other.

I moved my PS4 out of the cabinet and also cleaned the dust real good, I placed furniture pads on the bottom which helped immensely with heat and now the fans mostly silent, the DVD drive whines loud during certain games but it's not unbearable.

Now that my router and PS4 are about 4 feet apart the controls are tight as hell, hope this helps someone.

i would recommend getting a can of this or something similar. Drill a tiny hole in the wall, and empty the bottle in the wall near the pipe, it expands and might give you enough insulation in there to keep it from freezing and without opening the wall up. If the wall is white get some of this and just wipe it over the hole you made, or if its in a not so noticeable place, fuck it and leave it or get some similar looking paint and cover it. This is all a last resort attempt before opening the wall and insulating it yourself, no guarantees this will work at all.

get a door hardening kit. You want one that will replace the hinge screws with atleast 3in long screws, a metal bracket to wrap around the door where your locks are to prevent splitting, and a long metal bar on the frame of the door with long screws. Here's what i put on my doors:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWH2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_dNu5xbKJXZD15

You can also replace all your locks with higher security locks, don't get electronic locks as they have a bad history. If you want to make things a big pain in the ass for an intruder replace deadbolts with double cylinder deadbolts. That forces anyone who breaks in to go out the same way they came in as they cant unlock your doors. Came in a window? They're going back out the window.

Edit: there is also this, which looks pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QR2QCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_x_PZu5xb0DVAH4F

But really, a properly hardened door will be very hard to kick in and will give you plenty of time to react.